Fashion Village Lab Bandung

Roadmap 2017-2022 FASHION VILLAGE LAB BANDUNG

© COCOCAN 2017

Roadmap 2017-2022 | Fashion Village Lab Bandung 0 Introduction I The Fashion Village Lab II Fashion Village Cigondewah

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INTRODUCTION Since the 1980’s the urban periphery of Bandung has undergone tremendous economic and spatial growth by the arrival of large-scale textile and garment industries producing for the global market. In the industrial kampungs surrounding the factories a large informal economy has developed on the back of the global fashion market. Working and living are completely intertwined here, albeit not always in a beneficial way. Under influence of the industries these originally rural villages have transformed into unplanned and polluted factory towns.

While global fashion brands are trying hard to develop sustainable and responsible methods to produce textiles and clothing, the time is right to also reinvent the live-work environment of the fashion industry. The Fashion Village Lab in Bandung aims to do this, using a cooperative and circular approach. Creating impact step by step. We believe there lies a great potential for the Bandung region to be a healthy and resilient live-work environment for future generations.

This is a Roadmap for the establishment of the Fashion Village Lab, prepared and developed by COCOCAN and the Bandung Creative City Forum (BCCF). The Fashion Village Lab is a (5-year) programme which aims to put greater Bandung on the map as a fair, sustainable and innovative region for fashion production. The Fashion Village Lab programme starts in Cigondewah Kaler, a heavily polluted industrial neighbourhood at the southern periphery of Bandung. By setting up projects together with the local community and other fashion industry stakeholders the aim is to transform Cigondewah Kaler into a healthy and flourishing live-work environment, into a resilient Fashion Village.

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CONTENT

The Fashion Village Lab Cooperative & circular development model Ambition & goals Organisation

Fashion Village Community

Fashion Village Developers

Fashion Village Partners

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THE FASHION VILLAGE LAB The initiative for the Fashion Village Lab resulted from research by design project Home at Work (COCOCAN, finished in 2016) in which we analysed the live-work environment of the fashion industries in Bandung. We witnessed that the fashion industry still exhausts people and the environment involved in its supply chain. Workers live in informal and polluted neighbourhoods, lacking decent homes and proper sanitation. They depend on factories for employment, but those very same factories pollute water sources and disrupt ecosystems that local village communities depend on. Villagers lost their job as a farmer or fisherman and changed careers, becoming textile waste traders, independent garment makers or landlords who rent rooms to (migrant) factory workers. Under influence of the global fashion industries these original rural villages have rapidly transformed into unplanned, polluted and densely populated industrial kampungs (factory villages).

We learned that there is a very strong connection between business development and urban development. The urban periphery of Bandung has undergone tremendous economic and spatial growth by the arrival of large-scale textile and garment industries producing for the global market. In the villages surrounding the factories a large and thriving informal economy has developed on the back of the global fashion market. We see this as a huge opportunity for the sustainable and inclusive transformation of the industrial live-work environment, leading to the following question: What if local communities, living around textile and garment factories on the urban periphery, become respected co-producers of sustainable fashion products and are empowered to turn polluted industrial areas into healthy and self-sustaining Fashion Villages?

Goal of the Fashion Village Lab is to reverse the negative impact of fashion production on the environment by turning it into a source for good for local communities, on a social, economical and ecological level.

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Fashion Village Lab Kawisan Cigondewah

Citarum River

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AMBITION & GOALS The Fashion Village Lab is a programme consisting of different initiatives that contribute to the transformation of greater Bandung into a healthy and inclusive live-work CITY CENTER environment for the fashion industries. retail value attractive city center strong fashion The identity ambition of the Fashion Village Lab

consists of the following long- and short-term sustainable development goals: 1 Regional level > 20 years Developing greater Bandung as a fair, responsible and innovative region for fashion URBAN PERIPHERY production by restoring the beneficial industrial valueconnection between economy and ecology. development of unique fashion skills, services and products 2 Village level > 5 years

Transforming a polluted industrial kampung (case-study location Cigondewah Kaler) into a healthy and flourishing Fashion Village, using a community-based circular economy approach. The regeneration of Cigondewah Kaler serves as an example of sustainable COUNTRYSIDE rural-urban development, replicable in agricultural value greater Bandung and other regions in the production of biobased world.

resources for fabrics, dyes and building materials, such as: To kick-off the development of the first Fashion bamboo, ramie, soya, Village in Cigondewah Kaler we will realise banana, indigo, etc

three stepping stones during the first year of the Fashion Village Lab that form the essential infrastructure of a scalable production environment for unique fashion editions:

a)

b)

c)

Fashion Village Community (a cooperative business structure for the fashion producers, farmers and builders of the Fashion Village) Fashion Village Production Garden (a garden/plantation for the production of fibres, dyes, and building materials) Fashion Village Shophouse (a collective live-work building & innovation lab for the production of fashion products)

3 Initiative level > 1 to 3 years The Fashion Village Lab aims to realise various Fashion Village Initiatives (FVI’s) together with the Fashion Village Community and/or other interested stakeholders of the fashion and building industry. Fashion Village Initiatives ideally create synergy between sustainable fashion and rural-urban development. This way they contribute to the development a circular economy and a healthy live-work environment for fashion industry communities. The programmatic scope of Fashion Village Initiatives is twofold and consists of:

• Initiatives related to responsible fashion innovation • Initiatives related to responsible ruralurban innovation

In chapter 2.3 we have elaborated different Fashion Village Initiatives of both categories that we plan to unfold in Cigondewah Kaler with the Fashion Village Community.

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Factory roof as solar energy and water harvesting fields.

harvested energy: 196755 kWh per 1000m2 roof per year

a Clean Mother Factory (circular production)

investments

Regenerative Production Gardens (organic fibres and dyes) and water management system

costs to be researched

Production Garden per hectare ± €1.500,-

1 Fashion Shophouse €100.000,(excl. land, prototyping)

circular yields harvested water: 2 million liter per 1000m2 roof per year

Self-sufficiency will make the Fashion Village more resilient and competitive.

A community-based circular production network using the global mother factory and the local landscape as a reliable backbone.

30 ton of bamboo fibres per year per hectare

100 kg of organic dyes per year Fashion Shophouses provide collective workspace for local entrepreneurs and decent homes for (factory) workers and their families:

The long-term horizon enables lower income communities to pay back the loans obtained as monthly rents and decrease the amount they have to pay back to the Fashion Village Fund once they decide to sell their share in the Fashion Village Cooperative.

Limited fashion editions crafted by Fashion Village Cooperative

fabrics

A healthy and productive workforce living close to work.

factory fabric

sales of crops per hectare per year ± €2.500,-

rent of homes and workspace per year per shophouse €3.600,-

revenues

sales of 20.000 t-shirts per year per shophouse €100.000,-

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locally rooted fabrics The clean mother factory produces locally rooted fabrics (i.e. bamboo, ramie, soybean) using circular production methods (e.g.

The sales of Fashion Products is used as an economic flywheel for the development of the Fashion Village: €5,- per t-shirt is reinvested in the sustainable development of the Fashion Village.

Fashion Village Fund

raw materials

Fashion Village Cooperative

CIRCULAR & COOPERATIVE DEVELOPMENT MODEL The programme of the Fashion Village Lab aims to transform Cigondewah Kaler from a polluted industrial neighbourhood into a healthy livework environment, into a flourishing Fashion Village. During this 5-year programme, different Fashion Village Initiatives are organised that contribute to a resilient village economy and ecology. Initiatives are organised both in the field of fashion and building innovation.

Scalable approach Cigondewah Kaler, situated at the southern periphery of Bandung, is exemplary for many polluted villages situated near fashion industries, providing opportunities to scale and replicate the approach. The area is tailored for the crafting of sustainable fashion products in unique editions.

Reconnecting economy and ecology Our development model for the Fashion Village Lab empowers vulnerable fashion industry communities to regenerate their own environment in collaboration with sustainability and planning professionals and other interested stakeholders. The circular framework of the model aims to reconnect economy and ecology by using local resources, like industrial waste, bamboo or indigo, for the community-based production of environmentally responsible textile and building materials. The cooperative framework of the model supports local entrepreneurs to develop valuable services and products and connects them to a larger and more qualitative market.

Water & Green

Circular Framework

Energy & Waste

Initiatives

Fashion Village Gardens

Fashion Village Community

Fashion Village Shophouses

Stepping Stones

teams

Fashion Village Partners

Cooperative Framework

Fashion Village Developers

Teaming up A cooperative of local fashion makers, farmers and builders forms the Fashion Village Community that is at the core of the Fashion Village Lab. They team up with the Fashion Village Developers and the Fashion Village Partners to pilot Fashion Village Initiatives that help to grow circular and cooperative businesses within the Fashion Village.

The Fashion Village Developers (FVD) are the development enterprise of the Fashion Village Lab, focussing on both fashion and urban innovation. With their knowledge, skills and expertise they initiate, develop, consult and facilitate different Fashion Village Initiatives.

The Fashion Village Network is formed by partners that contribute to the development of the Lab with knowledge, activities, financial contributions, policy and regulatory support, and otherwise.

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ORGANISATION OF FASHION VILLAGE LAB In this chapter we will further explain the roles of the different organization bodies of the Fashion Village Lab and how they are structured and organised around the Fashion Village Initiatives.

Hereby, we take the development of the first Fashion Village in Cigondewah Kaler as an example. Last year we have made great progress in the establishment of the Fashion Village Community and the involvement of different development partners.

FVL stakeholders & partners

Fashion Village Community

initiating participating producing trading shareholder

The Fashion Village Community is a cooperative of community-based fashion makers, farmers and builders, committed to develop their live-work environment through sustainable initiatives and business models, related to both fashion and rural-urban innovation. The Fashion Village Lab aims to empower the Fashion Village Community to become a respected co-producer of unique and sustainable fashion products.

RURAL - URBAN INNOVATION building industry knowledge institute governments NGO’s

researching participating ordering

shareholder

FASHION INNOVATION fashion industry knowledge institutes governments NGO’s

Fashion Village Initiatives

identifying developing consulting facilitating shareholder

The programme of the Fashion Village Lab consists of different Fashion Village Initiatives in the field of fashion and rural-urban innovation.

The Fashion Village Initiatives are organised as much as possible as selfsustaining social business models that help to grow the cooperative economy of the Fashion Village. Innovation is steered by the cooperation with knowledge and research institutes.

Fashion Village Developers

The Fashion Village Developers form (FVD) the development organisation of the Fashion Village Lab.They contribute to the realisation of a healthy and thriving Fashion Village by identifying, developing, consulting and facilitating Fashion Village Initiatives (FVI’s) together with the Fashion Village Community and other stakeholders. They open up and enlarge the sustainable fashion market in favor of the Fashion Village Community.

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Business models of Fashion Village Lab

clients

fashion Industry

producers

sales preparation consultancy coordination quality control

Fashion Village Developers

agents

fashion makers

ordering

building Industry

farmers

builders

Fashion Village Community

products & services

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fashion Industry

building Industry

Products: Raw fibres Yarn Fabrics

Products: Raw fibres Bricks Sheets

Services: Coloring Sewing Printing

Services: Masonry Carpentry Installations

production assembly quality control

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Fashion Village Community The programme of the Fashion Village Lab will be carried by the entrepreneurial local communities of fashion industry villages in the Bandung Region.

The social mapping has been done by using qualitative research methods, such as observation, focus group discussions (FGD), and also semi-structured and in-depth interviews.

The Fashion Village Lab connects these communities with fashion and building industry clients, sustainable development experts and other interested stakeholders, both in the field of fashion innovation and rural-urban development. This way, communities themselves are empowered to transform their polluted live-work environments into healthy and flourishing Fashion Villages.

We focused our field visits, interviews, and Focus Group Discussions (FGD) on the three most relevant groups of entrepreneurs within the community:

The industrial kampung of Cigondewah Kaler at the southern periphery of Bandung will be piloted as the first Fashion Village.

Social Mapping From January until May 2017 we have conducted a social mapping within RW 2 and RW 12 of Cigondewah Kaler.

The first goal was to identify and understand how the different groups of village entrepreneurs are organised, what their markets are, how the different supply chains are structured, what kind of skills, knowledge and capacity the local entrepreneurs have and what kind of products and services they provide. The second goal of the mapping was to find interested entrepreneurs to join the initiatives of the Fashion Village Lab.

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1 Fashion Producers 2 Farmers 3 Builders As a result of the focus group discussions of the social mapping, a diverse group of villagers has been involved. With the support of the cooperative department of the City of Bandung (KUKM INDAG) they have established a legal cooperative structure to develop sustainable businesses together.

This village cooperative, Koperasi Kawisan, will take part in the initiatives of the Fashion Village Lab. We’ve included the total social mapping report with more information about the Fashion Village Community of Cigondewah Kaler in the Appendix.

On the right page we have described the focus of the Fashion Village initiatives that we plan to unfold with the different kind of village entrepreneurs.

Within the Fashion Village of Cigondewah Kaler we build the capacity and resilience of different entrepreneurs

Fashion producers Initiatives that contribute to capacity building of fashion industry communities (entrepreneurs & craftsmen) and to the development of fair and sustainable products or services for the local and global fashion industry. Production of fabrics and garments.

Farmers Initiatives that contribute to the improvement and resilience of the agricultural environment of fashion industry communities. Development of sustainable resources (crops) for the fashion and building industry.

Builders Initiatives that contribute to the improvement and circularity of the live-work environment of fashion industry communities. Development of building materials, methods, buildings, gardens and infrastructure.

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Fashion Village Developers The Fashion Village Developers empower vulnerable communities living around textile and garment factories to become respected coproducers of sustainable fashion and building industry products, thereby turning polluted industrial areas into healthy and self-sustaining Fashion Villages.

Applying the Fashion Village Model The Fashion Village Developers apply the Fashion Village Model to establish a cooperative and circular production environment with and for these communities, consisting of three stepping stones:

• Fashion Village Cooperative(s) formal business structure • Fashion Village Shophouse(s) safe and healthy workspace • Fashion Village Garden(s) production of resources

Together these stepping stones form the essential infrastructure for vulnerable communities to manufacture unique fashion products and to provide services to fashion industries.

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Cooperative green businesses Fashion Village Developers help the Fashion Village Cooperative(s) to grow their green businesses, by investing in them and their live-work environment (Shophouse, Garden, utilities, knowledge, skills training, etc).

They attract investments around promising cooperative business models (fashion and building industry) and develop these together with Fashion Village Cooperatives and other interested parties.

A social enterprise The Fashion Village Developers are a social enterprise, generating revenues with fashion industry businesses, rent from properties that we develop and by re-investing revenues in Fashion Village Cooperatives that become profitable.

Towards a proof of concept During the Fashion Village Lab the Fashion Village Developers will test the Fashion Village Model. Different promising initiatives (Textile Waste Initiative, Indigo Initiative, etc) are being developed with the Fashion Village Cooperative. Having a proof of concept enables the Fashion Village Developers to scale up and replicate the Fashion Village development as a social enterprise, reinvesting profits into new shophouses, gardens and cooperatives.

Objective & Development strategy The Fashion Village Developers have the objective to achieve the goals of the FVL by facilitating stakeholders that want to start/ implement FVI’s. The FVF also develops concepts / ideas itself and elaborates them into concrete designs and implementation plans, such as the masterplan of Cigondewah Kaler, the stepping stones and the first FVI’s.

Target group The target group of the Fashion Village Developers are stakeholders that want to start/ implement an initiative that contributes to the goals of the Fashion Village Lab (improvement of industrial live-work environment of the fashion industries) such as:

• Local communities • Companies (local, Indonesian, international)

• Universities / knowledge institutes (local, Indonesian, international) • NGOs (local, Indonesian, international) • Governments (local, Indonesian, international)

Local communities are the ultimate target group because the FVF aims to improve their live-work environment.

Activities The activities of the FVF consist of:

• Coordinating the Fashion Village Lab

Programme (FVLP), thereby enabling (stakeholders of) FVI’s to jointly contribute to the achievement of the objectives of the Fashion Village Lab. • Facilitating stakeholders that want to start FVI’s contributing to FVL objectives.

• Identifying potential FVI’s.

• Developing FVI’s on own initiative, such as the initiatives for Cigondewah Kaler.

Instruments The FVF has various instruments to develop the Fashion Village Lab and its initiatives:

• People > The FVF can provide manpower

to develop FVI’s (from idea to implementation plan) • Knowledge & experience > The team and network of the FVF has knowledge and experience with developing implementation plans and aligning with stakeholders.

• Funding > The FVF has funds available to support the development of implementation plans where useful • Network & partners > The FVF has a good network with companies, universities/ knowledge institutes, companies and NGO’s and can mobilize this network to support and join FVI’s

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Selection criteria of initiatives The FVF identifies initiatives or selects ideas of other stakeholders that approach the FVF. The FVF develops selection criteria to evaluate if initiatives contribute to the goals of the Fashion Village Lab (regeneration of the live-work environment of the fashion industries).

Criteria are for example: • Improves the living environment (decrease waste, circular economy/ zero waste concepts such as reuse fashion waste, renewable energy, renewable resources, clean water, etc.).

• Creates jobs (new fashion business concepts, construction works, maintenance, etc.), preferably in the formal economy (increasing people’s chance to get a mortgage, social security and other benefits) • Is inclusive (current communities benefit) • Fits the Fashion Village Masterplan: a masterplan will be developed as a tool to monitor and steer the progress.

Organization structure The organization of the Fashion Village Foundation consist of the following elements: 1 Operational team The operational team takes care of the development of the Fashion Village Lab. The team consists of:

• Director (preferably Indonesian) • Curator (international urban development 32

expert and initiator of the FVL: Mo Smit

• Administrative personnel • Marketing & communication • FVI employees (selection and development of FVI’s).

• Employees for realisation of stepping stones (1 year only).

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Fashion Village Partners Partners of the Fashion Village Lab are Governments Knowledge Institutes NGO’s Companies Knowledge pool The knowledge pool is a diverse network of expertise in the field of sustainable urban and fashion development, consisting of:

• • • •

Universities Companies Experts Communities & NGO’s

Board of sponsors The board of sponsors is a group of organisations (communities, companies, NGO’s, governments, etc) that support the Fashion Village Lab. The following organizations already support the Fashion Village Lab:

• • • • • • •

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City of Bandung Delft University of Technology Institut Teknologi Bandung C&A Foundation Dutch Embassy MVO Nederland GSC3.city

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FASHION INNOVATION INITIATIVES The Fashion Village Lab aims to reverse the negative impact of fashion production on the environment by empowering vulnerable village communities to become co-producers of sustainable fashion products. Within the first Fashion Village of Cigondewah Kaler, the Fashion Village Shophouse and the Fashion Village Garden provide a healthy and representative workspace for the Fashion Village Community to pilot various Fashion Innovation Initiatives.

Unique fashion editions We realize that our communitybased production concept can’t meet the requirements of “fast fashion” production.

We do not have the technology, the ground fabric, nor the manpower to deliver at such speed in such large quantities. But on account of the local conditions we can provide fashion brands a sustainable production environment for ‘unique fashion editions’.

From waste to biobased By following the logic “from waste to biobased” the Fashion Innovation Initiatives contribute to the development of economically and ecologically profitable cooperative business models (raw materials, products, services) with and for the Fashion Village Community. Added to this story is the value of craftsmanship. With the fast consumption of fashion, the notion of garment making is disappearing. To emphasize the value of a garment, the Fashion Village Lab also focusses on the re-evaluation of craftsmanship.

Fabrics, colors and crafts The aim of the Fashion Village Initiatives is to contribute to the skills and capacity building of the Fashion Village Community. We focus on developing a vertically integrated fashion supply chain (covering both textile and garment production) within the Fashion Village, in order to establish a resilient and valuable fashion eco-system, thereby creating many meaningful jobs. Based on this objective we’ve defined the following categories of Fashion Innovation Initiatives: 1 Fantastic Fibre Initiative Initiatives that contribute to the development of circular produced fibres and fabrics, such as fabrics from plastic household waste, bamboo and banana. The Fashion Village Community profits by selling raw fibres, yarn or fabrics to fashion industries.

2 Change of Colors Initiative Initiatives that contribute to the development of natural dye processes and products. The Fashion Village Community profits by selling natural dyes, but also by providing natural dye services for small fashion brands.

3 Community Crafts Initiative Initiatives that contribute to the development of knowledge, skills and craftmanship of the Fashion Village Community to produce unique and qualitative fashion products. The Fashion Village Community profits from the various services they provide to fashion brands, such as sewing, printing, embroidering, etc.

Fashion Innovation Initiatives can also be a composite of different categories.

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Fantastic Fabric Initiative Village communities all over Indonesia have a long and rich tradition in the creation of their own fabrics from local natural fibres.

Currently, as a result of rapid urbanisation and growing markets, Indonesia imports large amounts of raw materials to create man-made fibres, such as polyester and rayon. To overcome this dependency, the Government of Indonesia is now encouraging the use of natural fibres largely available in the country.

Approach and ambition With the Fantastic Fabric Initiative the Fashion Village Lab wants to contribute to the transition to use local natural fibres as an alternative for imported raw materials.

Agricultural by products, such as banana stalks, pineapple crowns and rice & coconut husk offer many opportunities to create fantastic fabrics, thereby lifting vulnerable village communities out of poverty.

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By giving access to existing technologies and knowledge, the Fashion Village Lab aims to empower Fashion Village Communities to produce fibres and fabrics in a cooperative and circular way.

Initiative Partners The Fantastic Fibre Initiative is developed as a social business model. Profits that we make are re-invested in the Fashion Village Lab. In the development of our Fantastic Fabrics we work together with the following local (Indonesian) and international partners: Indonesian partners • Sekolah Tinggi Teknologi Tekstil (STTT), Bandung, Dr. Mohamad Widodo • ITB (Faculty of Art and Design), Bandung Dr. Kahfiati Kahdar International partners • Saxion Hogeschool Twente • Texperium

Within the Fashion Village of Cigondewah Kaler we will pilot the development of three groups of fabrics, following the logic “from waste to biobased�

Plastic fabrics Plastic household waste is a huge problem in industrial villages such as Cigondewah Kaler.

Rivers and public space are scattered with plastic bags, bottles and packaging materials.

This initiative turns wasted plastic into valuable and fantastic plastic fabrics for both the fashion and building industry. In return, Fashion Village Cigondewah will be a clean and healthy place to work and live.

Bamboo fabrics As a renewable local crop bamboo has a large potential for the Indonesian textile market.

Compared to cotton it requires far less time and resources to be planted, tended and harvested.

With this initiative we plan to develop a circular way to produce bamboo fabrics by applying methods comparable to the Lyocell process.

We will purify the waste water within the Fashion Village in an integrated way.

Fruit fabrics (Banana / Pineapple / Coconut) Because of its tropical climate and fertile ground Indonesia has a large agricultural industry, producing fruits and vegetables of many kinds. This initiative turns agricultural by products such as banana stalks, pineapple crowns and rice & coconut husk into fantastic fruit fabrics. This fruit fabric industry will create many new jobs within the Fashion Village.

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Change of Colors Initiative Local communities living next to textile and garment factories suffer directly from the pollution, exploitation and exhaustion of resources that is caused by the fashion industries. The World Bank estimates that 17-20% of industrial pollution comes from textile coloring and treatment processes.

of the Fashion Village Community grow local crops, such as Indigo Fera Tinctoria, Kurmuma and Ginger. The crops are processed into colors within the Fashion Village Shophouse. By using 100% natural dyes and filtered water, the community is ensured of better living conditions: no chemicals on skin, cleaner rivers, soil and air.

Idea The idea of the Change of Colors Initiative is to re-establish traditional natural dye techniques as an alternative to the current polluting synthetic dyes and to turn this into a community-based service for fashion brands.

Re-introducing natural dyes and re-inventing traditional techniques, such as batik, ensure unique and sustainable products. Many new jobs will be created in the Fashion Village.

Initiative Partners The Change of Colors Initiative is developed as a social business model. Profits that we make are re-invested in the Fashion Village Lab. We work together with the following local (Indonesian) and international partners:

Approach & Ambition: The Change of Colors project is dedicated to coloring garments in a sustainable way.

Within the Fashion Village Garden, farmers

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Indonesian partners • Sekolah Tinggi Teknologi Tekstil (STTT), Bandung, Dr. Mohamad Widodo • ITB (Faculty of Art and Design), Bandung Dr. Kahfiati Kahdar International partners • Craft Council Nederland

Within the Fashion Village of Cigondewah Kaler we will pilot the development of a Gallery of Colors

Shades of indigo A (research) project about the many local versions of the Indigo Fera Tinctoria plant and the different color options these plants possibly produce. In collaboration with local artists, the Indonesian + Dutch Craft Council / Dutch Design in Development / Batik Fractal, Levi Straus Foundation, GSRD foundation

Shades of Yellow Yellow is one of the most common colours found in nature and natural yellow pigments abound - yet yellow is one the most difficult colours to produce in the form of a colourfast and wash-fast natural dye. Within this initiative we aim to develop new sustainable technologies to apply yellow dyes of all sorts. In collaboration with STTT, ITB, etc.

Shades of Red The natural dyeing process of red colours is complicated, and far from being fully understood. Within this initiative we aim to develop new sustainable technologies to apply yellow dyes of all sorts. In collaboration with STTT, ITB, etc.

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Community Crafts Initiative Indonesia is known for its many community crafts related to traditional textile and clothing production. Think of the famous batik culture, the diversity in weaving techniques and the well tailored costumes of its regions and islands.

In industrial villages such as Cigondewah Kaler, the creative spirit of fashion crafts is still alive. However, fashion production by industrial village communities is strongly influenced by the global fashion industries.

They found a local market in turning textile waste from the big factories into popular garments, such as t-shirts, sweaters and blouses.

Approach & Ambition With the Community Crafts Initiative, the Fashion Village Lab aims to integrate traditional craftmanship within the production process of popular garments in unique editions. The Fashion Village Community will

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optimize and diversify their craftsmanship with the use of the Fashion Village Shophouse and Fashion Village Gardens. By streamlining production, giving access to international fashion experts and working according to international fair wear standards, the product quality rises and the product line will diversify. We believe the market potential for this product will grow locally and internationally.

Initiative Partners The Community Crafts Initiative is developed as a social business model. Profits are reinvested in the Fashion Village Lab. Partners of the Community Crafts Initiative are: Indonesian partners • ITB (Faculty of Art and Design), Bandung Dr. Kahfiati Kahdar International partners • Crafts Council Nederland

Within the Fashion Village of Cigondewah Kaler we will pilot the development of different fashion editions in collaboration with local and global fashion brands

Color Block Collection Color block knitwear collection produced with textile waste designed and commissioned by Nike/ Converse/ Toms / Patagonia.

Fashion Village Carpets Hand woven carpets made of textile waste (based on the idea of Carpets of Life); in collaboration with H&M HOME.

Batik Blues collection A collection of items produced from greige textile waste, dyed with local indigo and branded with batik techniques.

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URBAN DEVELOPMENT PLAN FOR CIGONDEWAH Cigondewah Kaler is a city district at the southern periphery of Bandung, which is famous for its textile and garment production and wholesale markets. For our case study we selected two neighbouring industrial kampungs (RW2 and RW12) that informally developed from a rice producing rural settlement into a factory village under influence of large scale textile and garment industries that arrived here in the 1980’s. Companies like PT Kahatex, PT Sansan and PT Ipatama employ thousands of workers, who flocked the city on the tides of the local and global fashion market.

In our case-study we witnessed that the industrial kampungs of Cigondewah have to deal with big spatial and environmental challenges like inadequate (worker) housing, extreme water pollution, over exploitation of groundwater resources, land subsidence and floodings, lack of garbage collection services, degenerated agricultural land and outdated energy systems.

small garment workshops at home. They simultaneously take orders from the big factories and produce for their own small independent fashion brands.

Despite its environmental problems and lack of adequate housing, public facilities and services, the industrial kampung environment is home to a socially and economically tight knit community. People are used to take care of themselves and each other. Here, local community and textile & garment industries are completely interwoven and interdependent. Driven by economic factors original kampung inhabitants and migrant factory workers live side by side. Former farmers and fishermen nowadays make a living by sorting and trading factory textile waste or have started their own

The Fashion Village Development Plan foresees a collective and circular village framework for water & green and for energy & waste. Serious collaboration with fashion industries, government and knowledge institutes is needed to achieve this long-term goal. The replicable stepping stones that we’ve defined as part of this framework, the Fashion Village Production Gardens and Fashion Village Shophouses, enable to start the sustainable transition process on short term, on the smallest scale. The idea is that over time different types of Production Gardens and Fashion Shophouses will be developed by the Fashion

Industrial kampungs, such as Cigondewah Kaler, function pretty much off the urban grid and have a self-sufficient character. Although most of the current ad hoc solutions are unsustainable, there are many opportunities to integrate domestic and industrial cycles in a smart and ecologically responsible way.

The off-grid character of the industrial kampung is a quality that can be used to make the neighbourhood not only economically self-sufficient, but also ecologically regenerative. Instead of wasting resources they can be brought into a closed cycle on the scale of the industrial kampung. Collective strategies and circular design concepts that relate to the informal culture and local eco-system are needed to bring greater equity to underdeveloped industrial communities.

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Circular framework polluted water in

The Fashion Village Development Plan foresees a collective and circular infrastructure for water, energy, resource and waste management. Serious collaboration with fashion industries, government and knowledge institutes is needed to achieve this long-term goal. The replicable stepping stones that we’ve defined as part of this framework, the Fashion Village Production Gardens and Fashion Village Shophouses, enable to start the sustainable transition process on short term, on the smallest scale. The idea is that over time different types of Production Gardens and Fashion Shophouses will be developed by the Fashion Village Community in collaboration with other stakeholders.

Together, the first Fashion Village Production Garden and Fashion Village Shophouse form the start conditions of a healthy and safe live-work environment for the Fashion Village Community in Cigondewah Kaler. Within this context the community can start to generate revenues by providing fair and sustainable services, products and resources to local and global fashion industries.

The overall objective of the Fashion Village Masterplan is to function as a community-based and circular framework for the transformation of the unplanned and polluted industrial kampung of Cigondewah Kaler into a healthy and flourishing Fashion Village. The masterplan should inspire and enable different stakeholders to start projects in the field of fashion innovation and sustainable rural-urban development in a coherent way.

water treatment plant with river by -pass

river by -pass and floodbanks waste water garden with constructed wetlands

clean water out polluted water in

Polder boundery

CIGONDEWAH WATER STRATEGIE

Landsubsidence and floodrisk due to groundwater abstraction

a Floodrisk and landslide riverbanks

Droughts and floods due to decrease of watertable

polluted water in

CIGONDEWAH FLOODRISK

FASHION VILLAGE POLDER ECOSYSTEM GREEN FRAMEWORK

ENERGY FRAMEWORK WASTE FRAMEWORK

4 CIGONDEWAH RIVER BASIN

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GREEN & BLUE FRAMEWORK WATER MANAGEMENT Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

RAINWATER HARVESTING Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

FRESH WATER SUPPLY Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam fibre floodplane asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

river by-pass

fibre floodplane

fibres and dye wetland filter

dyes

wetland filter

fibres

rainwater recharge and frash water belt

edible dye & playgarden fibre floodplane

river by-pass

fibres and dye wetland filter

edible dye & playgarden

edible dye & playgarden

WASTE & ENERGY FRAMEWORK FV POWERHOUSE solarharvesting & ecovat asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

SOLID WASTE Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

TEXTILE WASTE Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

river by-pass

river by-pass

dyes

wetland filter rainwater recharge and frash water belt

edible dye & playgarden river by-pass

wetland filter rainwater recharge and frash water belt

fibres

dyes

fibres

fibre floodplane

edible dye & playgarden river by-pass

fibre floodplane

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ELABORATION OF STEPPING STONES The polluted industrial village of Cigondewah Kaler will be transformed into a healthy, community-based production environment for the fashion and building industry with the help of the following three stepping stones:

In this chapter we will elaborate the different stepping stones and explain what is needed to realise them in the first year of the Fashion Village Lab (2018).

1. Fashion Village Cooperative 2. Fashion Village Shophouse 3. Fashion Village Production Garden

Fashion Village Shophouse

Fashion Village Cooperative

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Fashion Village Garden

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Fashion Village Cooperative

The cooperative, a legal entity for a collective enterprise, is a common organisation form in Indonesia. On the countryside many cooperatives of rice, coffee and cacoa farmers exist.

However, in many fashion industry related villages such as Cigondewah Kaler, cooperation between different village entrepreneurs is organised in an informal way.

On the one hand, informality offers flexibility to village entrepreneurs to start different businesses and to work together in a diverse network of people. On the other hand, informality prevents them to get access to better education and financial resources to develop their skills, knowledge and businesses. We believe the establishment of Fashion Village Cooperatives offers a way out of the deadlock situation many entrepreneurs within fashion industry villages are trapped in.

First Fashion Village Cooperative As a result of social mapping and focus group discussions within Cigondewah Kaler, conducted for this roadmap, a diverse group of villagers has already been involved as the first Fashion Village Cooperative. With the support of the cooperative department of the City of Bandung (KUKM INDAG) they have established a legal cooperative structure to develop sustainable businesses together.

This village cooperative, Koperasi Kawisan, will take part in the initiatives of the Fashion Village Lab.

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Social Mapping The most most important goal of the social mapping was to identify and understand how the different groups of village entrepreneurs are organised, what their markets are, how the different supply chains are structured, what kind of skills, knowledge and capacity the local entrepreneurs have and what kind of products and services they provide.

The social mapping has been done by using qualitative research methods, such as observation, focus group discussions (FGD), and also semi-structured and in-depth interviews.

We focused our field visits, interviews, and Focus Group Discussions (FGD) on the three most relevant groups of entrepreneurs within the community: 1 Fashion Producers 2 Farmers 3 Builders

We’ve included the total social mapping report with more information about the Fashion Village Community of Cigondewah Kaler in the Appendix.

On the right page we have described the focus of the Fashion Village initiatives that we plan to unfold with the different kind of village entrepreneurs.

Planning We plan to develop three Fashion Village Initiatives together with the fashion makers, farmers and builders of Koperasi Kawisan in the first year of the Fashion Village Lab. In January 2018 we hope to have sufficient funds and stakeholders to start with the first three Fashion Village Initiatives.

Fantastic Fibre Initiative Plastic Fabrics

Community Crafts Initiative Color Block Edition from textile waste

Change of Colors Initiative Shades of Indigo

2018

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec 51

Fashion Village Shophouse

The shophouse typology, a combination of a home with a small scale workplace or a shop, is very common in informal neighbourhoods / kampungs such as Cigondewah Kaler.

Most of the time shophouses are gradually developed by kampung families as an investment for the future. By adding commercial spaces to their home they are able to generate more income, for example by opening a shop or by renting rooms to factory workers.

A collective workspace The Fashion Village Shophouse is a collective and sustainable version of the individual shophouses usually found in kampungs, offering qualitative space for a cooperative way of working and living. The Fashion Village Developers aim to develop more Fashion Village Shophouses in the future with and for Fashion Village Community, tailored to different kinds of services and activities for the fashion and building industry.

Inspired by local building methods The concept for the Fashion Village Shophouse is inspired by the circular and community-based building methods of traditional Sundanese homes (i.e Kampung Naga, West Java), in which the main structure and the infill for walls and floors are treated as separate elements. In Sundanese homes the main structure is made from high quality wood (i.e. balsa wood) and lasts for a long period of time. The infill is made from fast growing biobased materials, such as bamboo, rattan or palm leaves and are 52

replaced every 5 to 10 years. Within the community local craftsmen prefabricate different building parts, such as woven bamboo wall panels and roof elements of palm fibres. Finally, the assembly of these prefabricated building elements into homes is done together with the whole village community.

Location The proposal is to position the first Fashion Village Shophouse at the edge of the kampung, facing both the soccerfield and the remaining ricefields. The new building will replace a dilapidated bamboo shack, currently functioning as a workplace for informal garment makers, screen printers and textile waste sorters. These workers are part of the already established Fashion Village Cooperative who will use the Fashion Village Shophouse as their collective workspace.

Spatial programme The Fashion Village Shophouse consists of three floors. The groundfloor faces the public space of the kampung and the Fashion Village Production Garden. It consists of a mixed-use and flexible space, providing room for community and farming related activities, such as small scale commercial dyeing services, the storing of textile waste and the selling of textile products. The first floor is tailored for garment production and contains a fashion innovation lab, providing workspace and equipment for Âą 25 garment makers of the Fashion Village Cooperative.

The second floor consists of decent worker homes that are rented to workers or visitors.

attic floor room for expansion

8

second floor rentable worker homes

4

5

7

6

Building technology The load-bearing structure of The Fashion Village Shophouse consists of concrete (textile re-inforced, recycled) columns and beams, based on a modular dimension of 3 x 3 meter. This concrete structure forms a fire resistant open framework that can be filled in with different sustainable materials for walls and floors, such as bricks or woven mats from recycled waste materials (textile, plastic or paper) or biobased panels (bamboo, coconut, mendong, etc). The roof and outer veranda consist of a traditional bamboo structure, combined with innovative bamboo finishings and connections.

first floor fashion production

2

3

1

ground floor farming & commercial activities

PROGRAMME 1 Selling point / Fashion Village Office 2 Fabric warehouse 3 Farm space (organic dyeing, fibre/yarn production) 4 Fabric inspection + cutting + printing 5 Sewing Room + ironing 6 Finishing control + folding 7 Office and innovation lab 8 Rentable worker rooms (Âą 18 m2 per unit)

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Building process The development and construction of the Fashion Shophouse is organised by the Fashion Village Developers in close collaboration with the builders of the Fashion Village Cooperative and other building industry stakeholders. The design for the Fashion Village Shophouse allows for the integration of different innovative circular solutions developed by the community, knowledge institutes and/or the building industry, such as building elements from textile or household waste, the use of biobased materials and a self-sustaining water and energy harvesting system.

By building the project together, knowledge about sustainable building methods is exchanged and developed in a unique way.

The Fashion Village Developers aim to develop more Fashion Village Shophouses over time, tailored to different kinds of uses and activities related to the fashion and building industry.

Building innovation partners The establishment of a community-based and circular building industry is one of the goals that we want to stimulate with the development of Fashion Village Shophouses.

The Fashion Village Developers work together with diverse building innovation partners to achieve this long term goal. We team up with knowledge institutes to develop innovative solutions and with building industry companies to implement circular solutions that are new on the market.

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For the realisation of the first Fashion Village Shophouse in Cigondewah Kaler we collaborate with the following parters: Fashion Village Community • Koperasi Kawisan Knowledge Institutes: • ITB (Architecture, Planning and Policy Development) • TU Delft (Faculty of Architecture, AE+T) Building Industry: • CAST Formwork Systems (concrete structure) • The New Makers (CNC techology) • Cocopallet (biobased wall panels) • Goodhout ((biobased wall panels) • Alliander / Dr Ten (energy micro-grid) • Philips (lighting) • Nazava (water purification system) Project team Design Mo Smit Andry Widjatnoko Students

Realisation costs The realisation costs for a fully operating Fashion Village Shophouse consists of the following elements: 1 2

3 4

Purchase / lease of land.

The construction costs of the structure, based on the current construction prize per square meter for kampung contexts such as Cigondewah Kaler.

Utility costs (machines and furniture) Design and Innovation costs to achieve circularity

Crucial aspect for the realisation is the purchase or lease of the land, which is owned by one of the local textile factories. We will propose to the textile factory to “borrow� the land to the community during the Fashion Village Lab programme as a form of CSR. The totals costs for the realisation of the Fashion Village Shophouse can be found in the Appendix.

Planning January 2018 we hope to have sufficient funds to realise the Fashion Village Shophouse. We plan to further develop and build the Fashion Village Shophouse in one year. As a kick-off of the construction phase we will organise a summer camp with students of ITB and TUD.

Stage1 Definitive design

Stage 2 Preparation of construction Summer camp

Ready

Stage 3 Construction

2018 Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

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polluted water in

Fashion Village Gardens water treatment plant with river by -pass

The Fashion Village Masterplan foresees a collective and circular infrastructure for water, energy, resource and waste management. Serious collaboration with fashion industries, government and knowledge institutes is needed to achieve this long-term goal.

The replicable stepping stones that we’ve defined as part of this framework, the Fashion Village Production Gardens and Fashion Village Shophouses, enable to startriver the sustainable by -pass and floodbankstransition process on short term, on the smallest scale. The idea is that over time different types of Production Gardens and Fashion Shophouses will be developed by the Fashion Village Community in collaboration with other stakeholders.

GREEN & BLUE FRAMEWORK FiBRES & BUILDINGMATERIAL Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

clean water out

Together, the first polluted water in Fashion Village Production Garden and Fashion Village Shophouse form the start conditions of a healthy and safe live-work environment for the Fashion Village Community in Cigondewah Kaler. Within this context the community can start to Polder boundery generate revenues by providing fair and sustainable services, products and resources to local and global fashion industries.

The overall objective of the Fashion Village Masterplan is to function as a community-based and circular framework for the transformation of the unplanned and polluted industrial kampung of Cigondewah Kaler into a healthy and flourishing Fashion Village. The masterplan should inspire and enable different stakeholders to start projects in the andinnovation landslide field of Floodrisk fashion and sustainable rural-urban riverbanks development in a coherent way.

WATER FRAMEWORK

uted water in

GREEN FRAMEWORK

ENERGY FRAMEWORK WASTE FRAMEWORK

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fibres and dye wetland filter

FiBRES & BUILDINGMATERIAL Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

fibre floodplane

edible dye & playgarden

DYE & FOOD Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

DYE & FOOD Ceatem que nusa praecae nobis maximus es quamusto cum aut aliquam asitium dolupie ndigenis dolupti vit lignihicae nonsecabore, sitatat emporunt doloria exceptaquam, sitis am dollab ium que es sit quos nobis seculpa comnisc

57 river by-pass

Fashion Village Cooperative ready to produce

2018

Fashion Village Production Garden ready to use

realisation of stepping stones products from textile waste

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Fashion Shophouse ready to use

2019

extra hous

products w

PLANNING Deo achilibus bonsce non reorbis simaximis, se et; Catili conocriostem sidenica ret acta, pl.

Henihil icitum. Vivehent? Nihil horibunum atu quamqua quondum Romantem vo, utem mandum pri considintil vere priondum hor que tam tam nostis orbit videm arbis, P. Post ata pulium Romnerit, condis restroximus, novehemor incut ipsenihil consuntra, effret plis no.

Valiam, condefex movirti usulost foris. Abeffre, ut L. Vivit, et vitur postis con ses cusultia nonum lia ret; nit, qua in Etritemum. Ihi, dertem, prae cerficem mora? O teriorte tabus videsta ne movent. Valem Romniu es aperit, que es est inc tem teri pra tus, mod macru

sing development

with natural dyes

Haedit, nimihin nium prox nonsuliam abem dertamedo, que ad sa stem, Catus vit in vissi sendactum sulego estem querum tam tu elicibe nihili perisso ltuust visque isteridelles senatia? Si ina, catil tesitabit, proximplis ipionsupio tem inihilis aveniquam maciam o prit.

Ad rem publis huit et aucios vitam prit, que cres huitium hac mur que ad immovessis ium taripiem nonveriosto publius avertermilin nons cultorume quam et; et vis, nondam tes poeribus vitrum aperistra, ce mum perniris. Upio cons possede ffressi gnatissatia rei plin vivatiam dius, Catqui in viu cula nos maio, quiur.

Nihil viri sendi, sente auterfit, dit ad dii in diis

Products from locally produced natural dyes + fibres

2020

improving infrastructure

2021

products from natural fibres 59

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INVESTMENT PLAN Cis neque con non senit.

Hui cae andeo, quius nonte iptere esicae noc, nunum quides entilient, sa maximum erecturibus commo vis noven ses senat, compli prionsulis horem, C. Suscia? Ceri stiorunte in tum, que ac is horevitasti, consulisquam Pala consus essolut pri perfir hocaes por untelius factam seni ius, pes, Ti. Ur pervilina, paturbis. Opotium, des? Ricieniu ium qui sum et; nultuus. Et omne con iam ditra ine terei ina, nequa murs dem senter presse tus, stremendam quod stiusquam la mis. Ti. Ed non dit, ma, utem o tratiaelutum nos nitum inate nis li confecum ereo mod furnius. Senatea cus

conscem quam ia condactorum tandam sit, nonsus, unu sid cla strum ne nes inam pere, ursus, ut facci factame inceribus, tum nox non hordius ocae nulescre non dius andam oma, C. Nimorem morussi deoruni popublicavem temum iae consina tilicatum, escridem in huis Maritra? Paressendam aus consimus haes ces ego estia Sp. Sp. Nu conlocris aute ius clem noximistri trudefe ridetis tissus curei temenium nestatusu moenartem inatus adductali, quit, nos oc idienite faci ine ex mo us, coen ap

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COLOFON Concept and initiative of the Fashion Village Lab by COCOCAN. Development of Roadmap by COCOCAN & partners in collaboration with Bandung Creative City Forum (BCCF).

COCOCAN & partners Mo Smit (COCOCAN), Suzanne Loen (SL Studio), Gideon van Toledo, Dagmar Grote BCCF & partners Shinta Prabonno (BCCF), Tita Larasati (BCCF), Kahfiati Kahdar (BCCF), Akhmad Gunawan (Praksis) Involved universities Delft University of Technology Faculty of Architecture and the Built Environment | Intecture - aE graduation studio Prof. Thijs Asselbergs Involved students: Institut Teknologi Bandung School of Architecture, Planning and Policy Development | Built Environment Analysis Class Dr. Allis Nurdini Involved students: Photo credits

This project was made possible by:

COCOCAN 63