DINING
OKC’s Rising Stars Shining a spotlight on unsung kitchen pros BY GREG HORTON | PHOTOS BY LE XI HOEBING
he ideal sous chef is someone who doesn’t complain, works well at volume, is more dependable than the line cooks and gets paid much less than the executive chef or chef de cuisine. Ask anyone who used to be one and he or she will tell you it’s a “bougie” position, or upscale-sounding term for underpaid skilled worker. The best sous chef is the one who runs the
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Dylan Morgan
Shannon Goforth
Grey Sweater’s executive sous chef caught the attention of chef-owner Andrew Black for two reasons: an unbelievable commitment to excellence and a stellar palate. “In the Meatball House days, Dylan would roll thousands of meatballs, and he never complained, but I knew he was special when he tasted a sauce and knew everything it needed. He has a ludicrous palate.” Morgan’s mother ran a professional bakery for decades, so food has always been central in his life. He left an engineering program at OU because he didn’t enjoy school. A friend at a pizza joint told him about Chef Black, and the two connected immediately. Before Black opened Grey Sweater, he knew he wanted Morgan in the kitchen for his hard work, attention to detail and creativity. Watching them work together now, the mutual respect is apparent. The engineering mind is still part of Morgan, but he’s using it on plating beautiful dishes. “I like things that are all finesse – where the wrong touch or detail makes it all wrong. There is so much to perfect and master at Grey Sweater.”
You’ll probably recognize her if you spent any time at Ludivine. Goforth was the familiar, hard-working face of the Midtown restaurant, especially after its move to the new space. She got her start in OKC when she came back after finishing culinary school in New York to help with the opening of Vast. An Edmond native, Goforth never considered a career in cooking until a friend encouraged her. “I’ve grown to love it now,” she says. “I love the creativity, and the way I can add things to the role from other jobs I’ve held. It’s been a long road to Bradford House, but it feels worth it.” Goforth now oversees the kitchen at Bradford House, where her focused menu means everything has to be excellent. There is simply no room to hide when you’re only making three or four entrees. Her experience at Vast prepared her to be exceptional with fish, so if there is one on the menu, say yes.
Executive Sous Chef, Grey Sweater
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MAY 2021
Chef de Cuisine, Bradford House
