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Truffle-hunting toursinItalyinvite gueststobepart of thefamily
ByLisaKlein
The air is crisp, branches rustle above, fallen leaves crunch underfoot. A friendly dog rushes in and out beneath the trees, excitedly sniffing the earth in search of his target He starts circling a find, gingerly digging into the moist soil to uncover the"black gold" - aculinary treasuresought after all over theworld Thisisamoment inthelifeof atrufflehunter andyou,too,areinvited to joinin
"What is extraordinary for me about truffle hunting is that you alwaysfeel asexcited asakid," saysMarino Cardelli,who grew up in the Abruzzo region of Italy and founded Experience BellaVita, offering tours with his family "When thedog findsthetruffleand you approach to uncover it,you never know what ishidden underneath. And those timesthat youuncover abigtruffle,theexcitement isover thestars"
Trufflesgrowmostlyin thecolder monthsall over Europe- in France, Spain, Germany and there's even a variety in the northwestern United States But some of the most prized come from Italy, especially the northern Piedmont region, home of the famed white truffles of Alba Both white and black truffles can be found throughout the country in the northandalongthecentral Apenninemountains.
Called tartufo in Italian,the truffleisan underground fungus, somewherebetweenatuber and amushroom- oftenlovingly referred to asapotato With adistinctivearoma(which helps wild animalsfind it underground and spread itsspores) and a rich, earthy, nutty, umami explosion of flavor, it growson the roots of certain tree species (oak, willow, poplar, linden, hazelnut, beech, durmast) and needs very specific soil and climateconditionsto thrive.
The white truffle, found September through January, is the rarest and has the strongest flavor and aroma. The black truffle, found November through March, can be cultivated, making it slightly less precious, but its sweet, versatile flavor still shines. There is also a summer-season truffle that is muchmilder,amongseveral other varieties
No matter the color, these picky little fungi are beloved by the choosiest of foodies and fetch prices ranging from a couple hundred into the thousandsof dollarsper ounce The most expensive ever, awhite truffle from Albaweighing over three pounds, brought in $330,000 at a charity auction in 2021 It is no wonder truffle hunters are out to find this underground gem - but in Italy, the search is a family affair worthmuchmorethanmoney.
The art of truffle hunting has been passed down through Italian families for centuries, with knowledge of where and how truffles grow and methods for finding them using trained dogs and special spades This skill is so valued that it's recognized on UNESCO's list of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity BenedettaViganò of Giorgio Viganò Real Estate in Milan explains that truffle hunting is highly regulated, requiring hunters to be licensed and truffle grounds protected by an ancient code of honor A key part of this code is secrecy, with hunters often guarding their best spots closely, sometimes even working at night Many truffle hunters, like one known by Marino Cardelli, founder of Experience BellaVita, keep their locations secret, even from family, passing on the knowledge only through GPScoordinates stored in secureplaces.
Trained dogs are essential to successful truffle hunting. While the Italian Lagotto Romagnolo isthe iconic truffle-hunting breed, any small, agile dog canbetrained to sniff out and retrieveripetruffles Mr. Cardelli's family uses a Weimaraner named Jet and amutt named Nero,both of whom assist in the hunt Truffle hunters and their dogs share a deep bond,withthetradition often passed down through families and communities In Abruzzo, where Cardelli grew up, three out of every five people engage in truffle hunting, whether as a profession or a hobby Cardelli fondly recalls joining his father and brother on hunts as a child, reflecting on how this tradition connects him to his heritage and community,asentiment hegrew to appreciateeven moreafter movingabroad
Today, many truffle-hunting families invite visitors to join in their age-old tradition, though they keep their most secret spots undisclosed At Experience BellaVita, Marino Cardelli hosts tours at his uncle Adamo's farmhouse, where guests can explorethefamily'sproperty and try their hand at truffle hunting. Equipped with shovels and dog treats, participants help uncover the fungi while the trained dogs excitedly sniff out truffles, always rewarded with a treat "For the dogs, it?s a game they love," says Cardelli After the hunt, the true highlight begins: enjoying the fresh truffles, a moment celebrated acrossItalywithfestivalsand special dishes
After their truffle-hunting adventure, guests at Experience BellaVita are treated to a farm-to-table feast Depending on the season, the menu features fresh vegetables, cheeses, eggs, pasta, and dessert, all generously topped with the trufflesthey?veunearthed and paired withnatural winesfrom theAbruzzo region
"It?sall about sharing and immersing in thetruffle hunt while taking part in a typical Italian family setting," says Cardelli. From traditional dishes like truffle-shaved pasta to inventive creations like squid-ink-fried olives with truffle, this experienceoffersanauthentic tasteof Italiantruffleculture
Givethembreadandcircusesandtheywillneverrevolt,?sighedtheRomanpoet Juvenal2,000yearsago.Well,2024issurelyprovidingafulsometreat forcircus fans.Besidesalltheregulareventsfillingtheusualweeklytentofsports,thisyear thecalendarhasalsobeencrammingintherotatingspectaclesoftheEuros,the AmericasCup,theOlympicsandtheParalympics.Plusonelesserknown:the SolheimCup.
byNielsonDinwoodie
Lesser known because the Solheim isn? t the Ryder Cup Which is of course the three-day battlefor world domination between Europeand America A kind of latterday Boston Tee Party, held on the green sward of a golf course It?s an old and noble competition, going back to 1927, with only WWII and Covid-19 interrupting the quest by both sides to prove themselves the superior civilizing force. To date, 44 Ryder Cups havebeen contested Thecurrent tally is27-15to the USA, although Europe would probably wish to point out that since1979 ?in other words,the entire epoch of the modern game ? the score reads 12-9 in their favor The single most important number about the Ryder Cup is, however,that it?splayed100%bymen
The Solheim Cup, the women?sequivalent of the Ryder Cup, alternates with its male counterpart every two years, featuring the same format of 28 match-play foursomes, fourballs,and singlesbetweentheUS and Europe Whilethe structure mirrors the Ryder, the major difference lies in gender? and,unfortunately,thedisparityinTVcoverage Established in 1990, the Solheim Cup has a unique origin story.Karsten and LouiseSolheim,aNorwegian couple,were passionate advocates for girls' and women?s golf Their influence was no surprise? Karsten had invented the PING putter in hisgaragein 1959,and thecouplelater founded the iconic brand in Phoenix, Arizona Though relatively young, the Solheim Cup carries a deep legacy thanks to the Solheims' enduringcommitment to thesport.
If you follow the internet, you?ll know that women are excelling in sports across the board? dominating boxing rings, MMA cages, and rugby scrums, while playing football with as much, if not more, flair than men. They?re wrestling, fencing, scaling mountains, and competing in extreme challenges, all while waiting for mainstream TV to fully recognizetheir achievements.
The numbers back it up In Europe, over one million women account for 26%of registered adult golfers IntheUS,more than 64 million women play golf, contributing an estimated $1.5 billion in equipment and apparel sales. This year, from September 13-15, the Solheim Cup takes place at the Robert Trent Jones Golf Club in Gainesville, Virginia While the US has lost the last three matchups, they still lead the overall series 10-7 Both teams will be eager to prove to their growing audience where the next wave of world domination inwomen?ssportsiscomingfrom.
Gerina Piller, a veteran of three USA Solheim teams (2013-2017), vividly recalls the 2015 controversy at St. Leon-Rot in Germany, where Alison Lee mistakenly picked up her ball on the 17th green, believing her short putt had been conceded. Suzann Pettersen, playing for Europe, insisted it hadn?t, giving Europe a by-the-rules win and a10-6 lead heading into thesingles Theincident sparked outrage, but it also fueled one of the greatest comebacksin SolheimCup history,with theUS securing 8 wins out of 11singles matches Piller, who clinched her own match with a dramatic 18th-hole finish, reflects on that pivotal moment, emphasizing the Solheim?s role in shaping the future of women?s golf She believes the exposure the event brings is crucial for the sport, which still faceschallengessuch aslimited TVcoverageand less sponsorship compared to men?sgolf
As an Olympian, Piller sees immense potential for women?s golf to gain more traction, even envisioning mixed-gender events like fourball in future Olympics to increase visibility She highlights the strategic play required by female golfers, which she believes is more relatable to amateur players and makes for better entertainment The 2023 Solheim Cup in Spain was the most-watched edition yet, drawing nearly 1 million viewersin theU.S.and 734,000 in Europe.Looking ahead to this year?s competition in Virginia, Piller is confident that regardless of the outcome, the real winner will be women?sgolf.
ASPEN MOUNTAIN | NOVEMBER28
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