Ljubljana In Your Pocket #8 by Niko Slavnic

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

LJUBLJANA October - November 2009

It’s Wine Season

The grapes have been picked, now it’s time to celebrate

Conference Central

Everything you need to know about upcoming business events

Breathtaking Bovec Slovenia’s alpine paradise for outdoor sports & activities

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Welcome to the centre of attention!

The centre of top fashion, beauty and refined taste. Open: Monday-Friday: 9.00 - 21.00 Saturday: 8.00 - 15.00 Mercator, d.d. Maximarket, Trg republike 1, Ljubljana, Slovenia Phone: +386 1 47 66 800, www.klubmaxi.si

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Contents

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Contents Arriving in Ljubljana

Getting around

Basics

Language, history and numbers

Quick Picks

The best of the best

Culture & Events

Festival & Music The Arts

21 23

Conferences & Fairs

Sports

Where to stay

Business suites to hostel bunks

Dining & Nightlife

Where to eat Everything from A to V(egetarian) Cafés Enjoy one of Ljubljana’s favourite pastimes Nightlife Dance and drink the night away

40 51 54

Newly reopened Castle Tower

Urška Hrastnik

What to see

Bridges, museums and the castle

Bled

A picturesque lake on the sunny side of the Alps

Bovec

An alpine paradise for outdoor sports

Wine Tasting in Brda

Where to shop

The best of what and where to buy

Mail & Phones

Keep in touch by post, phone and internet

Directory

Lifestyle Business

88 89

Maps & Index Street Register City centre map City map Country map Index Now this is one classy photo

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

93 94 96 97 98

Urška Hrastnik

October - November 2009

foreWord Now that summer has officially ended we can finally clear our conscience and admit what everyone probably already knows: no, summer is not the best time of year to visit Ljubljana or any other inland European city. It’s hot, crowded with tour groups and all the locals flee to beaches somewhere. There, we said it - but if anyone asks, you didn’t hear it from us. Also, by the time next July rolls around please forget you ever read this. Anyway, where were we? Oh yeah, autumn has arrived, the time of year when the good people of Ljubljana awake from their collective siesta, university students - all 60,000 of them - return to their drunken debaucherous non-stop partying studies and the city regains the vibrancy that makes it such a great place to live and visit. In Slovenia wine is king throughout the year, but the autumn is when this fact is celebrated most publicly, with all kinds of wine-related events taking place in Ljubljana (p. 20) and picturesque wine regions such as Brda (p. 78) at their post-harvest liveliest. For the non-oenophiles there are concerts almost every night at the newly-opened Kino Šiška Cultural Centre (p. 27) or one of the city’s many other venues (p. 20), and the increasingly prestigious Ljubljana International Film Festival, or LIFFe (p. 20), also takes place. Here at Ljubljana In Your Pocket we’ve been busy adding new sections and features, including the first instalment of our Ask a...Local series (see opposite), an extensive guide to upcoming Conferences and Fairs (p. 28) and an introduction to Bovec in Slovenia’s alpine region (p. 73), a year-round paradise for outdoor sports.

Cover story Originally built by the French in 1813 and named after the Jardins de Tivoli in Paris, Ljubljana’s Tivoli Park was seemingly made with aimless Sunday morning strolls in mind. It’s packed with footpaths, tree-lined groves, statues and an oft-changing open air art exhibition. Take advantage of the city’s (usually) mild Indian summer and enjoy the foliage in all its autumnal glory.

Europe In Your Pocket

Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special In Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the 1150th aniversary of the city of Velikiy Novgorod. Look out for a special supplement in our next Russian guides and online at russia. inyourpocket.com. Elsewhere, you can now get your hands on Sarajevo In Your Pocket when visiting the Bosnian capital, and the same team - who have successfully pocketed Slovenia and Bosnia - are now turning their attention to Italy, and to Venice. We welcome enquiries from anyone who would like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either by contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send us an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket Drenikova 33, 1000 Ljubljana Slovenia Tel. +386 30 316 604 ljubljana@inyourpocket.com www.inyourpocket.com

Editorial Editor Yuri Barron, Irena Jamnikar Writers Yuri Barron, Craig Turp, Will Dunn Research Richard Schofield, Irena Jamnikar Layout & Design Vaida Gudynaitė Consulting Craig Turp Photos Yuri Barron, Zavod za turizem Ljubljana, Urška Hrastnik Cover photo Iva Krapež (flickr.com)

ISSN 1855-3486 ©IQBATOR d.o.o.

Sales & Circulation

E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S

Printed Schwarz d.o.o., Ljubljana Published 20 000 copies. Maps Monolit d.o.o.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Director Niko Slavnic M.Sc. niko.slavnic@inyourpocket.com Sales & Operations Management

Karmen Hribar, tel. 030 316 603 Žan Nekrep, tel. 040 242 248 Barbara Žlender, tel. 030 316 601

Copyright notice Text and photos copyright IQBATOR d.o.o. Maps copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokiečių 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. +370-5 212 29 76).

Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

foreWord Press Box

Ask a... Concierge Our long-awaited Ask a...local series has finally made it to print courtesy of JJ and Miha (aka the Dream Team) over at Hotel Park. Thanks guys!

“In Your Pocket: a cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.” New York Times

“Tops for Central and Eastern Europe. Back in 1991 during a long night of drinking, four guys living in Vilnius came up with the idea to create an online city guide for the Lithuanian capital, which at the time had no telephone directory. The result? This online collection of locally written, frank, lively and informative guides to more than 50 cities across the region, from Derry to Tartu. For most cities, content runs deep: there are more than 30 restaurants and 11 clubs listed under Brasov, for example. Plus, news, maps and blogs. You can even tune into a local radio station. Browse around the site for interesting finds, such as a Prague hotel that was formerly a theater and still retains original features, including a full size stage and balcony boxes.” Forbes.com

“Death of the guide book? Pah! They’re just diversifying. Print off your own PDFs…” The Times, April 18, 2008 (In naming In Your Pocket as one of 10 guide book publishers to trust, in the wake of the Lonely Planet scandal).

What are your favourite restaurants in Ljubljana? Some of our most favourite are: Sokol, Šestica, Figovec, Pri Vitezu, Vodnikov Hram, Pr Škofu and Restaurant As. What are your favourite bars in Ljubljana? Skelet, Maček, Cutty Sark, Fetiche, Petkovšek, Jazz Club Gajo, Bikofe and Kavarna Zvezda. When you are not working where do you like to go? Klub Top, Club Bachus, Club Inbox, Orto Bar, Ultra, Emonska Klet, As, Metelkova, Companeros - these are more or less nightclubs.

“In Your Pocket guides are a godsend. They are impressively up to date and clearly written by people who live in the city. Invaluable” The Sun Herald (Australia)

What are the most overlooked sights in Ljubljana? RIVERBANK ŠPICA: the Ljubljanica splits into two here, and later joins again on the other side of the city. CEMETERY ŽALE: the famous architect Jože Plečnik left his mark here, tourists usually only know the centre of Ljubljana, which is also his work. NEBOTIČNIK - the Skyscraper: built in 1933 it was one of the tallest buildings in Europe before World War II. LJUBLJANSKO BARJE: a natural park with wildlife and bird watching, it’s an ideal place for cycling. TIVOLI PARK: ideal for walking, just 10 minutes from the city centre. LJUBLJANA ZOO: good for families. CEMETERY NAVJE: a lot of famous Slovenian musicians, poets and other artists are buried here.

“Inyourpocket.com was the first online travel guide to come up with the idea of offering free downloadable city guides in printable (PDF) format.” The Guardian

What is the strangest request you’ve ever received from a guest? An older lady asked if I could watch her dog while she went shopping - and I had a reception full of people! And once on the nightshift (around 02:00) a guest called my colleague and asked him if it was possible to make a dinner for him!?

“The secret of the In Your Pocket guides is that, unlike many expensive travel guides, they are written by native English speakers living in the city they are writing about. That can lend itself to frank, matter-offact advice about your destination rather than jaded impressions from world-weary professional travel writers.” The Irish Times

“Practical and honest. It‘s like having a friend and an advisor all in one.“ La Repubblica

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Which nearby town makes the best day trip (besides Bled or Postojna)? Ptuj (castle, the city itself); Portorož, Piran, Koper (the entire seaside); Kranjska Gora with Planica (hosts the FIS ski jumps each year); Idrija (mining, Idrijska Čipka); Bohinj (a beautiful alpine lake). What is one piece of advice you would give to all visitors? Although Slovenia is a geographically small country, we have a lot to offer - did you know that 51% percent of Slovenia is covered with forests? In the early spring you can ski in the mountains in the morning and swim in the sea in the afternoon on the coast. People are very friendly and always prepared to help. In short: You will get much more then you expect!

October - November 2009

arrivinG in lJuBlJana Arriving by plane

A Word From Our Mayor

Ljubljana’s cosy little Jože Pučnik Airport is 26km northwest of the city, near Brnik. Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:00-20:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule.

Arriving by train

Once you’ve worked out the tunnel and stair system and made it to the main train station building, find everything you need including an ATM and press stand selling top-up cards (but alas no SIM cards) for prepaid SIM accounts. Left luggage is provided courtesy of 80 coin-operated lockers with instructions in English on platform Nº1, with the toilets conveniently located next door. The station also boasts a surprisingly good Tourist Information Centre, a train information bureau immediately to the right and currency exchange opposite (open daily from 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00-15:00, Sun closed). Getting to town depends as always on where you’re planning to stay and how fit you are. Many central hotels are within reasonable walking distance. Alternatively, find taxis outside, and make sure the meter is running before you depart.

Arriving by bus

All national and international buses arrive at the central bus station which is located directly in front of the main train station. The temporary prefabricated station building, serving passengers until the opening of the new combined train and bus station optimistically scheduled for 2010, features little in the way of facilities for recent arrivals, making a trip to the train station almost compulsory. Perhaps the only one of its kind in the world, the bus station does however contain a Sixt car rental kiosk, with the only other useful facility being a small internet café for which tickets can be acquired from ticket window Nº1. Getting to town is the same as described above.

For me, Ljubljana is the most beautiful city in the the world – unique for its special position in the heart of Slovenia. As a city with rich history and cultural heritage, it attracts ever more visitors every year from near and far. The most important ambassadors for Ljubljana are undoubtedly our residents, who live the intercultural dialogue and with their openness, kindness, and hospitality always ensure a touch of comfort and warmth. Welcome to Ljubljana! Zoran Janković Mayor

Arriving by car

Driving to Ljubljana is a joy due to the good roads and excellent signposting. The city is circled by a ring road from where it’s easy to get to the centre. Simply follow the parking signs for convenient places to leave your car near the city centre. Once in the city, it’s best to walk the short distances rather than drive through the heavy traffic and narrow street. Also, if you’re staying in Old Ljubljana be aware that it is largely a pedestrian only zone.

If Things Go Wrong The emergency number is 112 for fire, rescue, andambulance and 113 for police. If possible, find someonewho speaks Slovene to help you make the call sincethere is no guarantee of finding an English speaker onthe other end.The nearest Casualty Unit (Emergency Room) to thecity center can be found at University Medical Centerat Zaloška cesta 2, Ljubljana (D-2) and emergencytreatment is free for members of EU, EEA, andSwitzerland. We also list local pharmacies, dentists, andother services in the directory. You can find it here. If you find yourself in trouble with the police, call yourembassy immediately. The numbers for all embassiescan be found here under Foreign Representation in the directory.Useful Emergency Words: NA POMOČ! (NAH POH-MOCH) - HELP! gasilci (GAH-SEELT-SEE) - firemen policija (POH-LEET-SEE-AH) - police bolnišnica (BOW-NEESH-NEET-SA) - hospital A dam on the mighty Ljubljanica

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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GettinG around Officially part of the Schengen zone since late 2007 and nearly completely surrounded by other Schengenagreement countries, entering Slovenia has never been easier. With a well-developed system of buses, trains and highways throughout the country, getting around is also fairly easy. The centre of Ljubljana is relatively small, meaning public transport is rarely, if ever, needed when in town.

Public Transport Although most of Ljubljana’s sights are within easy walking distance for even the most unfit and/or laziest of people (and you can trust us as we’re proud card carrying members of both groups), there is a far-reaching and fairly efficient bus network for reaching attractions farther afield, such as the Zoo, BTC shopping centre or even distant Šmarna Gora, or for those interested in seeing what the city looks like outside the city centre. Although you may be lucky enough to see some Tito-era antiques plying the roads, the entire fleet is currently being modernised, so most of the time you can expect a comfortable ride. While nearly every stop has a schedule displayed, at most only the frequency of departures is listed, which can make for some frustratingly long waits. With the newly introduced Urbana Card, 90 minutes of travel with unlimited transfers costs only €0.80, although you can still pay with coins (€1 per ride, no change given) until the end of the year.

LPP (Ljubljanski Potniški Promet) B-2, Slovenska

56, tel. (+386) 14 30 51 74, mail@lpp.si, www.lpp.si. Ljubljana’s urban and suburban public transport company. There are LPP ticket sales offices at Slovenska 56 (Bavarski Dvor), Celovška 160 and the central bus station. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Urbana Card In August the city bus operator, LPP, finally introduced the long awaited Urbana Card, a form of electronic t i c ke t i n g t h a t wi l l eventuall y replace the previous hodgepodge system of payment that included toke n s, c oi n s a n d photo ID cards. The credit card-sized smart card is similar to those already used in other cities, such as London’s Oyster Card and Paris’ Navigo Pass. The cards can be purchased for a one-time fee of €2 at many locations including various tobacconists and news-stands, tourist offices, the central bus station and LPP offices at Bavarski Dvor and Celovška Cesta 160. Credit can be added for any amount between €1-50 at these same locations as well as at the 24 green Urbanomati machines scattered around town - be aware that the machines don’t actually sell cards though. When getting on the bus simply touch the card to one of the green card readers at the front entrance and €0.80 will be deducted from the card allowing 90 minutes of travel, including unlimited transfers. Until 31 December technophobes can still pay with coins, although the cost is €1 and no change is given.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

National bus schedule From Ljubljana First

Last

06:00 10:15 05:10 17:20

22:30 20:10 22:30

05:30 11:35 05:30 06:00 05:30 05:15 07:10 05:30

23:00 17:20 23:00 21:35 19:30 23:00 22:25 19:30

To Ljubljana

City First BLED 05:00 CELJE 04:50 GROSUPLJE 04:23 MURSKA 05:45 SOBOTA POSTOJNA 06:07 MARIBOR 06:52 NOVA GORICA 04:45 KOPER 04:56 JESENICE 05:44 KRANJ 04:20 NOVO MESTO 05:45 KRAJNSKA 05:20 GORA

Last

22:30 18-22 18:10 5-9 21:45 50 1 21:10 13:35 19:45 19:30 20:44 22:15 15:28 20:20

20 3-4 15 13 14 50 10 15

All buses depart daily. Schedule valid until December 1, 2009. *Buses per day

Buses Dozens of regular bus connections are available to efficiently whisk you to all corners of the country. See also the national and international bus schedules in this guide.

Bus station (Avtobusno Postajališče) C-1, Trg Osvo-

bodilne Fronte (OF), tel. (+386) 1 234 46 00, fax (+386) 1234 46 01, avtobusna.postaja@ap-ljubljana.si, www. ap-ljubljana.si. Essentially a large caravan without any wheels, Ljubljana’s temporary central bus station couldn’t be easier to use. Enter through one of the doors at either end, buy a ticket from one of the kiosks, and away you go. Some tickets can be bought directly from the driver, but you should always check in the bus station to make sure. The bus station operates many national routes as well as regular international services. QOpen 05:00 - 22:30, Sat 05:00 - 22:00, Sun 05:30 - 22:30.

Trains Slovenian Railways (Slovenske Železnice) does an admirable job of running an efficient network with clean modern trains that are usually on time. Their website (www.slozeleznice.si) contains a wealth of information in English, including live information on train delays as well as an online timetable. See the national and international train schedules in this guide for the main destinations.

Train Station (Železniška Postaja) C-1, Trg Osvobodilne

Fronte, tel. (+386) 1291 33 32, potnik.info@slo-zeleznice. si, www.slo-zeleznice.si. Full of nice touches such as little conveyor belts for taking heavy bags up to the platforms, Ljubljana’s reasonably central train station just north of the main action is slated for demolition, to be replaced by a truly fabulous new building in 2010. See Arriving for information on several of the station’s facilities, plus, if you’re planning on leaving town, the ticket office straight out of a 1970s disco movie is to the left of the main entrance, with signs and departure screens in English.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

GettinG around Car rental

Petrol service stations with HIP HOP stores in Ljubljana

The speed limit is 50km/hr in built-up areas, 90100km/hr on main roads, 130km/hr on highways. Cars must use headlights at all times and must have a spare wheel, warning triangle, spare lightbulb, first aid kit and, in winter, either snow chains or winter tyres. The alcohol limit is 0.05%. The traffic information centre has road webcams and maps of current traffic problems at www. promet.si.

BS LJUBLJANA (I-V), CELOVŠKA 226 CELOVŠKA CESTA 226 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 50 08 900, Fax: 01 50 08 905 / Non stop BS LJUBLJANA DOLENJSKA DOLENJSKA CESTA 136 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 12 690, Fax: 01 42 12 691 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00, Sat: 06:00 - 22:00, Sun: 07:00 - 22:00 BS LJUBLJANA (I) ,DUNAJSKA 130 DUNAJSKA CESTA 130 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 56 53 490, Fax: 01 56 53 491/ Non stop BS LJUBLJANA VIČ (II), TRŽAŠKA 131 A TRŽAŠKA CESTA 131A , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 36 560, Fax: 01 42 36 561 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00, Sat: 07:00 - 20:00, Sun: 07:00 - 20:00 BS LJUBLJANA RUDNIK (I-S), DOLENJSKA 157 A DOLENJSKA CESTA 157A , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 12 660, Fax: 01 42 12 661 Mon - Fri: 05:00 - 21:00, Sat: 07:00 - 21:00, Sun: 08:00 - 21:00 BS LJUBLJANA (II) ,ŠMARTINSKA 101 ŠMARTINSKA CESTA 101 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 54 43 666, Fax: 01 54 67 000 / Every day: 06:00 - 22:00 BS LJUBLJANA VIČ (III) TRŽAŠKA CESTA 130 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 36 570, Fax: 01 42 36 571 / Non stop BS LJUBLJANA ,TIVOLSKA 43 TIVOLSKA CESTA 43 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 43 03 610, Fax: 01 43 03 615 / Non stop BS LJUBLJANA ,POLJE 51 POLJE 51 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 54 91 040 / Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 20:00, Sat: 07:00 - 20:00 BS LJUBLJANA (III) ,DUNAJSKA 70 DUNAJSKA CESTA 70 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 43 64 770, Fax: 01 43 64 775 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00, Sat: 06:00 - 22:00, Sun: 07:00 - 22:00 BS LJUBLJANA BARJE (I-S) CESTA DVEH CESARJEV 71 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 36 530, Fax: 01 42 36 534 / Non stop BS LJUBLJANA BARJE (II-J) CESTA DVEH CESARJEV 73 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 42 36 540, Fax: 01 42 36 540 / Non stop BS IG LJUBLJANSKA CESTA 69 , IG Tel: 01 28 64 062, Fax: 01 28 64 063 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 21:00, Sat: 06:00 - 21:00, Sun: 07:00 - 19:00 BS LJUBLJANA LETALIŠKA CESTA 38 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 52 40 140, Fax: 01 52 40 139 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00, Sat: 08:00 - 21:00 BS LJUBLJANA ZALOG ZALOŠKA CESTA 255 , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 520 36 38, Fax: 01 520 36 82 Mon - Fri: 05:00 - 21:00, Sat: 07:00 - 21:00, Sun: 07:00 - 18:00 BS LJUBLJANA, KAJUHOVA 32 S KAJUHOVA ULICA 32S , LJUBLJANA Tel: 01 54 43 961 Mon - Fri: 06:00 - 22:00, Sat: 06:00 - 22:00, Sun: 08:00 - 20:00

AGIO rent a car H-1, Celovška cesta 228, tel. (+386) 59

043 719/(+386) 031 727 777, fax (+386) 059 047 779, agio@t-2.net, prevozi-agio@t-2.net, www.agio.si. Located in the outskirts of the city, Agio offers a full range of vehicles sizes and classes and will deliver your car free of charge within 30km of the company. They also offer a great service where you can rent a car with a driver if you’re not so confident behind the wheel or feel like impressing your friends. QOpen 8:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 8:00 - 12:00. Average age of cars is 6 months. Cars from 30€ per day, without additional duties. Atet H-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 17, info@atet. si, www.atet.si. Cars from €30 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00. Airport office tel. (04) 201 98 48, open 08:00-22.00. AutoRent C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (OF) 5, tel. (+386) 1234 46 50, ljcity@rentacarslo.com, www. rentacarslo.com. Cars from €36 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 238 24 14 , open 08:00-22:00. Avant H-1, Dunajska 140, tel. (+386) 1589 08 50, national@avantcar.si, www.nationalcar-slovenia.com. Cars from €35 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 589 08 68, open 08:00 - 22:00. Avis C-2, Čufarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1583 87 72, rez.center@avis.si, www.avis.si. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 23 65 000, open 08:00-22:00. Budget Rent a Car B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1421 73 40, ljubljana.dt@budget.si, www.budget.si. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 201 43 00, open 07:00-23:00. Carrent D-1, Štihova 13, tel. (+386) 1433 30 82. Cars from €40 per day. QOpen 09:00 - 16:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

International train schedule From Ljubljana

First 06:15 02:00 08:05 09:27 09:27 09:27 02:30 05:45 07:26 02:00 20:48

Last 21:15 08:40 07:25 23:50 23:50 23:50 21:08 17:25 23:50 21:15

To Ljubljana

City BELGRADE BUDAPEST GRAZ MUNICH PRAGUE SALZBURG VENICE VIENNA VILLACH ZAGREB ZURICH

First 05:50 12:03 06:34 08:27 07:14 01:34 15:48 07:56 04:07 07:00 21:40

Last 21:50 16:35 18:37 23:40 17:11 14:12 21:20 15:57 19:27 23:35

* 4 2 4 3 2 3 2 3-8 7 7 1

All trains depart daily. Schedule valid until December 12, 2009. *Trains per day

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Getting around Europcar C-2, Dalmatinova 15, tel. (+386) 31 38 20 52,

reservations@europcar.si, sl.europcar.si. Cars from €36 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 236 79 90, open 08:00-21:00. Hertz B/C-2, Trdinova 9, tel. (+386) 1434 01 47, ljubljana@hertz.si, www.hertz.si. Cars from €38 per day. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 201 69 99, open 08:00-22:00. Sixt C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte (OF) 7, tel. (+386) 1234 46 50, info@sixt.si, www.sixt.si. Cars from €34 per day. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office tel. (04) 238 24 14, open 08:00-22:00. Technoplus Bratov Kunovar 6, tel. (+386) 1563 50 24/(+386) 041 679 042, fax (+386) 1563 50 25, info@ rentacarplus.si, rentacarplus.si. Cars from 28€ per day. Thrifty Zgornji Brnik 130 A, reservation@subrosa.hr, www.thrifty.si. Q Airport office tel. (04) 236 57 50, open from 07:00-21:00. Cars from €33 per day.

Airport

Ljubljana airport (Letališče Jožeta Pučnika) Zgornji

Brnik 130a, tel. (+386) 42 06 10 00, fax (+386) 42 02 12 20, info@lju-airport.si, www.lju-airport.si. Well connected to the Balkans and most major European destinations, Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport, 26km northwest of the city, is as small and efficient as the rest of the country. There’s free wifi for internet addicts, a selection of restaurants and bars, banks, a currency exchange office (open 07:00 - 19:00) and a post office (open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00-12:00, Sun closed). Getting there takes about 30 minutes by taxi (€35-45) or shuttle (€5-8, schedule is coordinated with flights) and roughly twice as long by bus (€4.10, up to 16 per day between 05:0020:00). Check the airport’s website for a complete schedule. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs, airport information from 07:00-23:00.

Airlines

Adria Airways (JP) H-2, Kuzmičeva 7, tel. (+386) 1369

10 00, fax (+386) 1436 88 06, booking@adria.si, www. adria.si. Slovenia’s flag carrier. Direct flights to Amsterdam, Athens, Barcelona, Birmingham, Brussels, Bucharest, Copenhagen, Dublin, Frankfurt, Instanbul, Kijev, London Gatwick, Manchester, Moscow, Munich, Ohrid, Oslo, Paris-Charls de Gaulle. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Airport office phone: 04 259 43 38 Open: 05:30-24:00 Air France (AF) B-3, Igriska 5, tel. (+386) 1244 34 47, fax (+386) 1244 34 48, mail.cto.lju@airfrance.fr, www. airfrance.si. Flights to Paris CDG. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 20 61 674 . Open two hours before flight. Austrian Airlines (OS) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 02 01 22, office.ljubljana@aua.com, www.aua.com. Flights to Vienna. QOpen 06:30 - 18:00, Sat 06:30 - 15:30, Sun 06:30 - 10:00. Brussels Airlines (SN) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 06 16 56, www.brusselsairlines.com. Flights to Brussels. QOpen 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Czech Airlines (OK) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 06 17 50, lju@czechairlines.com, www.czechairlines. com. Flights to Prague. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Only by the time of flight is working on Saturday from 05:30-07:00 and Sunday from 13:00-15:00. Easyjet (EZY) Ljubljana Airport, tel. +44 87 06 00 00 00, www.easyjet.com. Flights to London Stansted. Q Airport office tel. (04) 206 16 77. Open two hours before flight.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

JAT Airways (JU) C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1231

43 40, jat.airways@jat-lju.si, www.jat.com. Flights to Belgrade. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Airport office tel. (04) 206 17 80. Open two hours before flight. Lufthansa B-2, Gosposvetska 8, tel. (+386) 1434 72 46, lufthansa@adria.si, www.lufthansa.de. No Lufthansa flights to and from Ljubljana, but they do have an office selling airline tickets. QOpen 08:30 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Malév (MA) Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 06 16 65, www.malev.hu. Flights to Budapest. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. SAS Scandinavian Airlines (SAS) Tel. (+45) 70 10 20 00, www.flysas.com. Turkish Airlines (TK) Ljubljana Airport, thyljubljana@ siol.com, www.turkishairlines.com. Flight to Istanbul. Q Airport office tel. (04) 206 16 80.

Even Rastas ride bikes here

Urška Hrastnik

October - November 2009

GettinG around Travel Agencies For all your flight and hotel bookings, and tours.

Avantura B-2, Slovenska 40, tel. (+386) 1242 00

00, fax (+386) 1242 00 04, info@avantura.si, www. avantura.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Collegium B-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. (+386) 1234 49 70/(+386) 040 194 194, fax (+386) 1234 49 78, info@ collegium.si, www.collegium.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Kažipot B-2, Čopova 5a, tel. (+386) 1425 44 91, info@kazipot.com, www.kazipottours.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:30 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Kompas C-2, Pražakova 4, tel. (+386) 1200 63 33, prazakova@kompas.si, www.kompas.si. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:30. Closed Sun. Mondial Travel B-2, Kersnikova 5, tel. (+386) 1234 49 72/(+386) 040 192 192, info@mondialtravel.si, www. mondialtravel.sI. QOpen 09. Relax B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 1234 56 90, relax.lj@relax.si, www.relax.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Roundabout Pot Draga Jakopiča 6, tel. (+386) 41 786 168, fax (+386) 1 5611 039, info@roundabout.si, www. roundabout.si. QOpen 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Taxis Ljubljana’s taxis are safe, clean and generally reliable. The starting rate is €1, the rate per kilometre between €1-1.70, with no extra charge at night. Waiting costs €15-20 per hour. Ordering a taxi by phone will get you lower rates.

Metro Taxi Tel. (+386) 80 11 90. Protocol Tel. (+386) 41 62 15 04, info@protocol.

si, www.protocol.si. Rumeni Taxi Tel. (+386) 41 73 18 31, info@ rumenitaxi.com, www.rumenitaxi.com. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Taxi Društvo Ljubljana , tel. (+386) 1234 90 00, info@taxi-ljubljana.si, www.taxi-ljubljana.si. Taxi Intertours Tel. (+386) 1520 97 04, info@ taxi-intertours.si, www.taxi-intertours.si. Taxi Laguna Tel. (+386) 80 11 17.

STA Trg Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 14 39 16 90/(+386) 41 61 27 11, fax (+386) 14 39 16 95, info@staljubljana.com, www.sta-lj.com/. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tao C-2, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 5, tel. (+386) 1230 63 20, info@taoturizem.si, www.tao-tt.si.

Flight schedule From Ljubljana

To Ljubljana

Days – – – – – 6– – 12345–– ––34––7 –2–4––7 –––4––– ––––––7 1–34––– ––––5–– ––––––7 12345–– –––––67 ––––––7 12345–– ––––––7 1–3–5–7 123456– 12345–7 –––4––– –––––6– –2––––7 1–––––– –––––6– 1234567 12345–– 12345–7 1234567

Dep. 07:15 07:30 18:35 12:45 07:25 18:20 10:30 17:40 18:00 06:45 07:50 16:00 18:20 21:30 13:30 09:45 19:50 07:30 07:40 18:45 18:45 18:20 07:50 12:15 17:00 17:55

Arr. 09:15 09:30 20:35 15:50 09:30 20:25 11:50 19:00 19:20 08:35 09:40 17:50 20:10 23:20 16:00 10:55 21:00 09:25 09:35 20:40 20:40 20:05 09:15 13:40 18:25 19:20

–––45–– 1–––––7

12:05 19:30

15:45 23:05

1––––––– –––––6– 1–3–5–7 1–––––7 1234567

13:00 13:50 15:30 23:50 23:45

16:05 16:55 18:35 02:55 02:50

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

City AMSTERDAM (JP) AMSTERDAM (JP) AMSTERDAM (JP) ATHENS (JP) BARCELONA (JP) BARCELONA (JP) BELGRADE (JU) BELGRADE (JU) BELGRADE (JU) BRUSSELS (SN) BRUSSELS (SN) BRUSSELS (SN) BRUSSELS (SN) BRUSSELS (SN) BUCHAREST-OTP (JP) BUDAPEST (MA) BUDAPEST (MA) COPENHAGEN (JP) COPENHAGEN (JP) COPENHAGEN (JP) COPENHAGEN (JP) DUBLIN (JP) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) FRANKFURT (LH) HELSINKI (AY) HELSINKI (AY) HELSINKI (AY) ISTANBUL (JP) ISTANBUL (JP) ISTANBUL (TK) ISTANBUL (JP) ISTANBUL (JP)

Days 12345–– –––––6– ––34––7 –2–4––7 –––4––– ––––––7 1–34––– ––––5–– ––––––7 ––––––7 12345–– –––––67 ––––––7 12345–– 1–3–5–7 123456– 12345–7 –––4––– –––––6– –2––––7 1–––––– –––––6– 1234567 12345–– 12345–– 1234567 ––––5–– –––45–– 1–––––– ––––––7 1234567 12––––– 1–3–5–7 1––––––– –––––6–

Dep. 10:15 10:20 21:05 16:35 10:05 21:05 08:20 15:30 15:50 23:50 09:05 10:10 18:30 20:45 16:45 08:05 18:10 09:55 10:05 21:10 21;10 20:50 10:15 12:05 19:00 20:20 22:40 09:45 17:00 17:05 05:40 05:45 13:15 16:50 18:00

Arr. 12:00 12:05 22:50 17:35 12:00 23:00 09:40 16:50 17:10 01:30 10:45 11:50 20:10 22:25 17:30 09:15 19:20 11:45 11:55 23:00 23:00 00:25 11:30 13:20 20:15 21:35 23:55 11:20 18:40 18:45 06:50 06:55 14:30 18:00 19:10

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

GettinG around Flight schedule continued From Ljubljana Days –2––––– ––––––7 –––4––– ––––5–– 1–3–56– –2–4––7 –2–4––– –––––6– ––––– –7 –––––6– –2345–– 1–––––– –––––6– ––3–––– ––3–––– –––––6– ––––––7 123456– 1234567 12345–– 1234567 1234567

Dep. 11:35 12:15 13:00 14:00 07:25 18:25 10:25 11:00 15:05 16:10 17:35 17:35 10:35 11:40 07:00 13:40 10:45 11:20 06:50 10:15 12:30 18:30

Arr. 14:40 15:20 16:05 17:05 08:45 19:45 11:40 12:15 16:20 17:25 18:50 18:50 13:10 14:15 08:30 15:10 15:40 16:15 07:50 11:15 13:30 19:30

–2––56– ––––––7 123456– 1234567 12345–7 1234567 1234––– ––––5–– ––––––7 123456– 12345–7 1234567 1234567 1234567 12345–7 1234567 12345–7 –2–45–– ––3–––7 1––4––– 1234567 –2345–7 1234567 1––4–67 1234567 12345–7 –––––6– 123–––– ––––5–– –––4––– 1234567 12345–7 123456– ––––––7

23:55 06:30 08:05 18:45 07:30 16:15 13:20 15:20 17:30 06:30 14:25 13:15 23:35 15:00 20:50 13:25 23:30 06:55 18:05 00:25 13:15 23:55 07:55 11:15 15:25 18:05 18:15 07:30 18:00 18:30 07:45 14:30 19:00 19:40

01:25 08:25 10:00 20:40 09:30 18:15 14:35 16:20 18:30 07:55 15:50 15:00 01:20 15:55 21:45 15:00 01:05 09:30 20:40 03:45 14:40 01:20 08:45 12:05 16:15 18:55 19:05 09:05 19:35 20:05 09:00 15:45 20:15 20:55

KIEV (JP) KIEV (JP) KIEV (JP) KIEV (JP) LONDON-LGW (JP) LONDON-LGW (JP) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) LONDON-STN (EZY) MADRID (JP) MADRID (JP) MANCHESTER (JP) MANCHESTER (JP) MOSCOW-SVO (JP) MOSCOW-SVO (JP) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) MUNICH (LH) OHRID (JP) PARIS-CDG (JP) PARIS-CDG (JP) PARIS-CDG (JP) PARIS-CDG (AF) PARIS-CDG (AF) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PODGORICA (YM) PRAGUE (OK) PRAGUE (OK) PRISTINA (JP) PRISTINA (JP) SARAJEVO (JP) SARAJEVO (JP) SKOPJE (LH) SKOPJE (LH) STOCKHOLM-ARN (JP) STOCKHOLM-ARN (JP) TEL AVIV-TLV (JP) TIRANA (JP) TIRANA (JP) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) VIENNA (OS) WARSAW (JP) WARSAW (JP) WARSAW (JP) ZURICH (JP) ZURICH (JP) ZURICH (JP) ZURICH (JP)

To Ljubljana Days –2––––– ––––––7 –––4––– ––––5–– 1– 3 – 5 6 – –2––4–7 –2–4––– –––––6– ––––– –7 –––––6– 1–––––– –2345–– –––––6– ––3–––– ––3–––– –––––6– ––––––7 123456– 1234567 ––34––– 1–––––– –2––5–– 1234567 1234567 ––3––67 ––––––7 123456– 1234567 1234567 12345–7 –––––5– 1234––– ––––––7 12345–7 12345–7 1234567 1234567 123456– 1234567 123456– 1234567 –2–45–– ––3–––7 1––4–––

Dep. 15:20 16:00 16:55 17:50 09:45 20:45 06:50 07:25 11:25 12:35 14:00 14:00 13:50 15:20 09:15 15:55 16:40 17:05 08:55 11:55 12:00 12:10 14:25 20:15 05:40 09:40 11:00 21:20 13:15 20:00 13:40 15:05 15:50 11:45 21:35 05:00 15:45 06:15 16:25 05:30 15:50 10:15 21:15 04:55

Arr. 16:30 17:10 18:05 19:00 12:50 23:50 09:55 10:30 14:33 15:40 17:05 17:05 16:30 18:20 12:35 19:15 17:50 18:15 09:45 12:45 12:50 13:00 15:15 21:05 07:10 11:30 12:50 23:10 15:10 21:50 14:40 16:20 16:50 13:10 23:00 06:50 17:35 07:10 17:20 07:00 17:20 12:45 23:55 08:35

1–3456– 1234567 1––4–67 1234567 –––––6– 12345–7 123–––– ––––5–– –––4––– 1234567 12345–7 123456– ––––––7

05:00 09:55 13:40 17:05 19:30 21:00 09:35 20:05 20:35 10:00 16:45 21:00 21:25

06:20 10:45 14:30 17:55 20:20 21:50 11:10 21:40 22:10 11:10 17:55 22:10 22:35

Full schedule at www.lju-airport.si Airline codes: AF Air France; AY Finnair; AZ Alitalia; EZY EasyJet; JP Adria Airways; JU Jat Airways; MA Malev; OA Olympic Airways; OK Czech Airlines; OS Austrian Airlines; SN Brussels Airlines; TK Turkish Airlines; YM Montenegro Airlines. Schedule is valid untill October 24, after that date check www.lju-airport.si. The numbers indicate days of departure: 1 is Monday, 2 is Tuesday, etc. Check all details before flying.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2009

BasiCs Basic data Population Slovenia 2,053,355 (2009) Ljubljana 266,845 (2004) Area 20,273 square kilometres Ethnic composition Slovenian 83% Former Yugoslav minorities 5.3% Hungarian, Albanian, Roma, Italian and others 11.7% Official languages Slovenian Italian Hungarian Local time Central European (GMT + 1hr) Our 16th century Town Hall

Urška Hrastnik

Drinking Alcohol is only sold to people over 18, and after 21:00 it cannot be bought in stores.

Electricity Like most European countries, Slovenia’s voltage is 220 volts AC, 50 Hz, and the country uses European two-pin plugs.

Language

Longest river Sava (221km in Slovenia) Highest mountain Triglav 2,864m. Borders Austria 318km Italy 280km Hungary 102km Croatia 670km

Vinjeta - A Ticket to Drive Vinjeta www.dars.si. Slov-

Slovenian is a Southern Slavic language with a 25-letter alphabet. It is closely related to Serbian and Croatian, and shares many words with other Slavic languages. Many Slovenes also speak English, Italian, or German embarassingly well.

enia requires all motor vehicles travelling on Slovenian highways to have a vinjeta (veen-yeh-tah) sticker. This system exists in lieu of tolls, and the vinjeta can be easily obtained at nearly all gas sta-

Money Slovenia temporarily swapped the Yugoslav dinar for the tolar in 1991, and adopted the euro in January 2007. Euro coins come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50 cents, 1 and 2 euros, while banknotes come in 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500 euros. The Slovenian side of the euro coins are decorated with among other things storks, Mount Triglav, Lippizaner horses, a man sowing stars and a Jože Plečnik design.

Street smarts Slovenians usually leave out the word for street in conversation, so while your destination may officially be called ‘Poljanska ulica’, you can survive by just saying Poljanska Avtocesta (aw-toh-ses-tah) Cesta (tses-tah) Most (mohst) Nabrežje (nah-breh-dgee-eh) Trg (teh-rg) Ulica (oo-leet-sah)

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Highway Boulevard Bridge Embankment Square Street

tions and kiosks. Yearly/monthly/weekly stickers are €95/30/15 for cars and yearly/half-yearly/weekly ones are €47.50/25/7.50 for motorcycles. Also be aware that border police will likely not remind you to purchase a vinjeta when entering the country, but are highly likely to issue you a steep fine when leaving if you’ve failed to do so. For more info check www.dars.si.

Politics The Republic of Slovenia is a parliamentary democracy. The president, Dr DaniloTürk, was elected in 2007. Borut Pahor has been the prime minister since 2008. The next parliamentary elections will be in September 2012. The government consists of the PM and 15 ministers, of which two are without portfolio.

slovenia.inyourpocket.com ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

SLOVENIA FOR YOU

Basics

Feel the presence of nature. Taste the harmony of diversity.

The Koritnica Valley

ZaÄ?utite bliĹžino narave. Okusite harmonijo raznolikosti.

www.slovenia.info

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2009

BasiCs Religion Although Slovenians are traditionally Roman Catholic, the most recent Eurobarometer Poll in 2005 found that only 37% of the population believe in a god, with 16% atheists and the rest of them believing in ‘something’.

Smoking Cigarettes can’t be sold to people under 18. Slovenia recently banned smoking from public indoor spaces except in special smoking areas in offices, hotels and bars.

Tipping It’s not traditional to tip in Slovenia, though a reward of about 10% for good service in a restaurant or bar is always appreciated.

Toilets Clean and pleasant public toilets can be found at the Dragon Bridge (Open 07:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun), in the Plečnik Passageway (Open 07:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun) and at the Triple Bridge (Open 07:00 - 21:00).

Visas Many foreigners simply need a passport or ID card to enter Slovenia. Those requiring a visa will be able to travel freely between the Schengen-agreement countries for a limited amount of time, usually 90 days. Always check these details with a Slovenian embassy or consulate. Further information can be found at www.mzz.gov.si.

Major Currency Cross Rates Currency

Euro € 1. Euro € 1. U.S. $ 0.70 1. U.K. £ 1.14 1. Swiss Franc 0.65

U.S. $ 1.41 1.61 0.92

U.K. £ 0.86 0.60 0.56

Swiss Franc 1.50 1.05 1.72 -

Market values Prices in Slovenia are still fairly competitive despite increases over the last couple of years particularly in the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday products and prices. Product McDonald’s Big Mac Snickers 0.5ltr vodka (shop) 0.5ltr of local beer(shop) Loaf of white bread 20 Marlboros Public transport ticket Roll of Kodak 200 speed film, 24 exposures

Price €2.40 €0.59 €13.85 €1.01 €2.74 €2.80 €0.80 €4.09

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history Evidence suggests that people first populated the area known today as Slovenia as far back as 250,000BC. People were known to have settled in the area around Ljubljana by around 400BC when the Celts started arriving. Roman times With the expansion of Julius Caesar’s empire comes the establishment of the Roman town Emona on the left bank of the Ljubljanica, of which some remains can still be found in today’s Ljubljana. Thriving for a relatively short period of time, Emona is abandoned some time during the 6th century AD, and the region is invaded several times by the Huns and other early Germanic tribes.

Between the wars After the collapse of the Austro-Hungarian Empire Slovenia becomes par t of the State, and then the Kingdom of the Slovenes, Croats and Serbs on December 1, 1918, which subsequently becomes the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1929. The Slovenian architect Jože Plečnik (1872-1957) builds many of his most important buildings in the capital between the two World Wars. Slovenia is occupied by the Italians, Germans and Hungarians during WWII. In 1945, Croatian-born Tito, whose mother was born in Slovenia, establishes the Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia.

16th to 18th Centuries Protestant influence grows with the Reformation and continued Austrian occupation. The first book in Slovenian is published in 1550. The city is seriously damaged by the earthquake of 1511 and much of the city is rebuilt in the Baroque style.

Socialism & Yugoslavia Slovenia develops as the richest and most Westernised of the Yugoslavian states. After the so-called Tito-Stalin split of 1948, Yugoslavia becomes much less oppressive. Yugoslavs enjoy many freedoms and are even allowed to travel out of the region and work in the West. Tito dies in Ljubljana on the afternoon of May 4, 1980. Relative freedom and prosperity doesn’t stop the region from suffering the same blows as the rest of the Communist world, and Slovenia becomes the first country to declare independence from Yugoslavia, officially becoming independent on June 25, 1991 after the population votes in a referendum in favour of the move on December 23, 1990.

19th Century Napoleon visits the city in 1809 and makes it the capital of the Ilirske province. As with many occupied countries in this part of the world, a national awakening takes place during the 19th century. Slovenian becomes Slovenia’s official language, the first college is founded, and the city grows into the shape and form it more or less is to this day. Ljubljana’s importance is boosted by the arrival of the first railway in 1849. After much of the city is destroyed by the huge earthquake of 1895, the city is almost completely rebuilt at the start of the 20th century. The Old Town is preserved practically intact.

Independence & Beyond After a slightly shaky start, Slovenia establishes itself as the tiger of the former Yugoslavia. A shrewd combination of nationalist pride and business acumen keeps much of the country’s industry in local hands. Slovenia joins the UN on May 22, 1992 and the EU on May 1, 2004, several weeks before joining NATO. The local currency, the tolar, is replaced by the euro on January 1, 2007. At the end of the year, Slovenia becomes a member of the Schengen countries, and in 2008 proudly takes over the EU presidency for half a year.

Medieval Ljubljana Ljubljana is first mentioned in writing in 1144. The now primarily Slavic city is invaded by the Habsburgs, who control the city and Slovenia almost uninterrupted up until WWI. The city expands during the first few hundred years of this period and the basic shape of the Old Town as it is today is laid out.

Street smarts Special Pronunciations c – as in pizza e – as in egg g – as in go j – like y in yogurt č – as in cello š – as in ship ž – as in pleasure Basics Do you speak English? – Govorite angleško (Goh-voh- REEtay Ahn-GLESH-ko) ? I don’t understand – Ne razumem (Nuh ra-ZOO-mehm) Where is the toilet? WC? - Kje je stranišče (Key-yay strahnEESH-chay) ? WC (Vay-tsay)? Good Morning – Dobro Jutro (DOH-broh YOO- troh) Good Day – Dober Dan (DOH-behr Dahn) Good Night – Lahko noč (Lah-koh noh-ch) Yes – Ja (Yah) No – Ne (Nay) Hello – Živjo (Jeeve-yoh) Excuse me/Sorry – Oprostite (Oh-PROS-tee-tay) Pardon me (asking for help) – Prosim (pro-SEEM) My name is....- Jaz sem (Yahz sem) ... I am from... – Jaz sem iz (Yahz sem iz)... Days Monday – Ponedeljek (POH-nuh-dehl-yek)

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Tuesday – Torek (TOR-ek) Wednesday – Sreda (Sray-dah) Thursday – Četrtek (chuh-TUR-tuck) Friday – Petek (peh-tuck) Saturday- Sobota (soh-BOH-tah) Sunday- Nedelja (nuh-DEHL-yah) Questions Who? – Kdo?(K-doh) What? – Kaj?(Ky) Where? –Kje ? (Key-yay) When? – Kdaj (K-dy) How much does it cost? Koliko stane (KOH-LEE-KOH STAHNEH)? Post One foreign stamp, please - Eno znamko za tujino, prosim (Eh-no z-nahm-koh zah too-YEE-noh pro- SEEM) For postcard – Za razglednico (Zah raz-GLEHD-neet-so) For letter – Za pismo (Zah pees-moh) Signs Open - Odprto (Ohd-PURT-oh) Closed - Zaprto (Zah- PURT-oh) Entrance – Vhod (oo-hod) Exit- Izhod (eez-hod) Push – Rini (ree-nee) Pull – Vleci (oo-LETS-ee)

October - November 2009

quiCk piCks Ljubljana Distilled Eat

Drink

Like A Local

Stari Tišler (p.49) Only a short walk from the main train station, Old Tišler’s has been serving up traditional Slovene cuisine for over a century. They specialise in hearty soups, stews and goulashes, which means it’s a good place to try bograč, a Slovene favourite that is essentially a bowl of meat masquerading as stew. Daily lunch specials are a good value starting at €5, and there are a half dozen rooms available upstairs.

Dvorni Bar (p.58) This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more geared towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00.

Do what most locals do in the long summer evenings, or at weekends, and head for the enormous Tivoli Park. Almost as big as the city itself the park strectches for kilometers into the hills and is packed with things to do. You might also consider a trip out to the Postojna Cave (see page 65) of which locals are rightfully proud: it is the largest cave of its kind in Europe.

On the Cheap

Konkurenca (p. 50) Kebabs, burgers and burek to eat in or take away around the clock just southwest of the train and bus stations. Look for the blinding yellow and green façade for some of the cheapest eats in town.

Kavarna in slaščičarna Zvezda (p. 52) a bustling café frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearl-laden old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town.

With the Ljubljana card (€12.52) you get 3 days worth of free rides on the city bus (normally €1 a ride) as well as free admission to the city museums and galleries. You’ll be thanking yourself all the way to the bank.

With The Family

Jurman (p. 42) This popular family-friendly gostilna packs in the locals with a menu that seems to have a bit of everything and a somewhat kitschy atmosphere that manages to include knights, a waterfall and an video arcade all under the same roof. There’s also a children’s play area outside on the astroturfed patio. It’s a good budget-conscious option and the food isn’t half-bad either.

Cacao (p 51) If you like ice-cream, and who doesn’t, then this is your place. Along with the usual coffee, tea, wine and beer, Cacao serves up scoops of ice-cream which you can enjoy indoors or out on the terrace. Fruit and ice-cream is around €5 a serving and if you want a bit of a kick with your cream, go for one of the alcohol-spiked varieties such as Rio (Baccardi and blue curacao) or Brasil (tequila, minus the worm). There are also plenty of child-friendly shakes and servings available but if you are planning on going to Rio you might want to bring the babysitter.

Ljubljana’s fantastic ZOO will keep the kids happy for hours. There are places to pet certain animals (not the lions of course though) and all in all there might well be more animals in here than there are people in Ljubljana (probably…). The zoo’s superb layout makes it easy to navigate. You will find it on the far side of Tivoli Park.

Over The Top

Pri Vitezu (p. 46) Exquisite restaurant, widely recognized as one of the city’s best. Though expensive (and we mean expensive, you can spend a fortune here) it still offers great value for money to people for whom high class food is paramount. We recommend everything on the menu, as well as the daily lunch menu which your waiter will recite to you.

Top: Eat & Party (p. 53) Located on the top floor of a commercial building in the heart of the city centre, this recentlyopened venue is already the odds-on favourite to win the prestigious “Most Literally Named Club in Slovenia” award, and is looking to compete internationally later this year. Local DJs spin a good variety of music Wednesday to Saturday.

Cankarjev Dom (p. 27) is host to many premier national and international musical acts, dance companies, and theater ensembles all year-round. Check out our culture & events section (p. 31) and find a great show.

Slightly Strange

Running Sushi & Wok (p. 41) When Slovenia’s first conveyor belt sushi place opened we had mixed feelings: a second option to get our raw fish fix was welcomed, but we were a bit leery about the allimportant freshness department. But as far as we can tell it’s OK. Everything more or less tastes like it should and there’s a good variety of dishes meandering around on separate hot and cold belts.

Get yourself to Cupiterija (p. 42). Part café, part bar, part restaurant: Čupiterija, or Hijo de Puta as it is also known, is 100% original. Located on Mestni Trg a couple doors down from Town Hall, they serve lunch Monday to Saturday from noon to 16:00. In lieu of menus, daily lunch specials are scrawled (in both English and Slovene) across a giant blackboard out front, and often include several pasta, steak and salad selections along with a couple random choices like chicken curry or artichoke risotto.

Metelkova Mesto (p. 27) is an autonomous social centre created when artists took over former army barracks. The place is decorated in colorful graffiti and artwork and serves as the home for a number of art organizations and rock clubsGromka and Klub Channel Zero.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Quick picks

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2009

Culture & events Festivals 28th Ljubljana Biennial of Graphic Arts International Centre of Graphic Arts, Cultural and congress centre, other venues 04 September 2009 - 25 October 2009 15th City of Women - international f estival of contemporary arts various venues 09 - 18 October 2009 Kvartet Kairos (Slovenia) - classical music The Slovenian Philharmonic 14 October 2009, 20:00 3rd Slovenian Flamenco Festival - SIFF Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre)/Gallus Hall 17 - 23 October 2009

Ljubljana Wine Festivals Radost helps organise some of the most popular and widely attended wine-related events in Slovenia in an ef for t to promote not only wine producers and regions but also wine culture itself, which includes Slovenian culinary products as well as traditional culture and customs. See radost.si for more information. 12th Slovenian Wine Festival, 19-20 November Slovenia’s largest wine-related event has been promoting the culture of wine drinking for over a decade, and this year’s festival will be the biggest yet. Taking place at two of Ljubljana’s most prestigious hotels, the event brings together diverse participants and attendees from the wine industry, media and interested consumers, and aims to both raise awareness of wine drinking - especially among younger people - and help facilitate business partnerships between producers, caterers and wholesalers as well as offer new opportunities for development of the wine business. See their website for registration infomation and current list of exhibitors. 2nd Culinary Festival, 19-20 November Running concurrently with the Slovenian Wine Festival, the Culinary (or COOLinary as it’s sometimes called) Festival aims to promote typical Slovene food products and the inseparable relationship between food and wine, as well as selected chefs who have demonstrated exceptional creativity in their field. It brings together many Slovene and some foreign producers to offer tastings of various cheeses, cured meats, oils, breads, honeys, truffles, chocolates and much more. Ljubljana Wine Route, 7 November On St Martin’s Saturday the centre of Ljubljana is transformed into an orgy of wine producers, sellers, enthusiasts, interested locals and confused tourists. Most of the action takes place in the old town along the banks of the Ljubljanica and a few surrounding streets, with Slovenian wine and agricultural products sold - of even given away - from countless small wooden booths. You’ll also be sure to hear plenty of traditional music and see many people dressed in traditional clothing and other costumes.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Traditional Turkey flamenco night Siti Teater BTC 19 October 2009, 20:00 Noches de Bohemia: Flamenco, que te quiero Flamenco - literary night of reading in Spanish language Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre) 20 October 2009, 20:00 4th Slovenian Biennial of Visual Communication National Gallery 27 October 2009 - 29 November 2009 LIFFe - 20th Ljubljana International Film Festival 1 1 - 2 2 N ove m b e r 2 0 0 9, S l o ve n s k a K i n o te k a (cinematheque), Kinodvor, Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre) Gay and Lesbian Film Festival 2009 Kinodvor 28 November 2009 - 05 December 2009

Music Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra, Slovenian Chamber Choir, Consortium musicum Choir - classical music Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre) Gallus Hall 08, 09 October 2009, 19:30 Neisha (Slovenia) - pop Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre) Linhart Hall 08 October 2009, 20:30 Dejan Lapanja, guitar, vocal (Slovenia) - pop, rock Orto bar 08 October 2009, 22:00 Chicks on Speed (Nemčija /Španija/Francija/ZDA) - electro pop Gala hala (Metelkova mesto alternative culture centre) 09 October 2009, 22:00 Surfacetension (Austria) - rock Orto bar 09 October 2009, 22:00 Slowind Festival 2009 Slovenska filharmonija, Kinodvor. Mestni kino 10 - 14 October 2009 Steve Porter (USA), Motorcitysoul (Germany) - house InBox 10 October 2009, 22:00-06:00 Katalena (SLO), Edward Clug (SLO), Valentina Turcu (SLO) and Slovenian National Opera and Ballet Theatre of Maribor ballet dancers: Špic - Cvak! - music- dance performance Cankarjev dom (ultural and congress centre) - Gallusov Hall 12 October 2009, 20:00 The Ritsuyu-Kai Chorus (Japan) - choir music Franciscan Church (Church of the Annunciation) 13 October 2009, 20:00 Mercedes Peón (Spain) - traditional music Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), CD Club 13 October 2009, 20:30

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culture & Events

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2009

culture & Events Tarja (Finland) - symphonic metal Dvorana Tivoli (sports hall) 14 October 2009, 20:00

Marc Ribot’s Ceramic Dog featuring Eszter Balint - jazz Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), CD club 27 October 2009, 22:00

Kvartet Kairos (Slovenia) - classical music The Slovenian Philharmonic 14 October 2009, 20:00

Division (Slovenia) - pop rock Orto bar 29 October 2009, 22:00

Slovenian Philharmonic Orchestra - classical music Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Gallus Hall 15, 16 October 2009, 19:30

Dogma (Croatia) - funk Orto bar 31 October 2009, 22:00

Edo Maajka (Croatia) - rap Cvetličarna (Media Park) 15 October 2009, 21:00

Perpetuum Jazzile (Slovenia), The Real Group (Sweden) - vocal jazz, a cappella Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Gallus Hall 01-03 November 2009, 20:00

The Tazmanian Devils (Germany) - psychobilly Klub Gromka (Metelkova mesto alternative culture centre) 15 October 2009, 22:00 Shyam (Slovenia) - rock Orto bar 15 October 2009, 22:00 ZZ Top - hard rock Dvorana Tivoli (sports hall) 16 October 2009, 20:00 Lybra (Slovenia) - pop, rock Orto bar 16 October 2009, 22:00 Dub Club: Idem (France), Vuneny (Bosnia and Herzegovina) - drum ‘n’ bass, electro, industrial Gala hala (Metelkova mesto alternative culture centre) 16 October 2009, 22:00 Liebman-Eskelin Quartet (USA) - jazz Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), CD Club 20 October 2009, 20:30 Radio-Television Slovenia Symphony Orchestra clasical music Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Gallus Hall 22 October 2009, 20:00 Esperanza Fernández (Spain): La voz y la palabra - flamenco dance and music night Grand hotel Union – Executive, Great Hall 23 October 2009, 20:00 Armin Van Buuren (Netherlands) - trance Dvorana Tivoli (sports hall) 23 October 2009, 21:00 Legalo kriminalo (Slovenia) - rock Orto bar 23 October 2009, 22:00

Porcupine Tree (UK) - progressive rock Kino Šiška Centre for Urban Culture 03 November 2009, 20:00 Songs of the Soul: Celebrating the music of Sri Chinmoy - spiritual and world music The Slovenian Philharmonic 07 November 2009, 19:00 The Orchestre National de Lille (France) - classical music Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Gallus Hall 09 November 2009, 20:00 The Blind Boys of Alabama & Preservation Hall Jazz Band (USA): Down by the Riverside - gospel & jazz Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Gallus Hall 10 November 2009, 20:15 Eros Ramazzotti (Italy) - pop Dvorana Tivoli (sports hall) 19 November 2009, 20:00 Philharmonia Orchestra (UK) - classical music Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Gallus Hall 22 November 2009, 20:00 Bajaga i instruktori (Serbia) - rock Dvorana Tivoli (sports hall) 28 November 2009, 20:00 CECA, Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre 28 November 2009, 21:00

Galleries Salvador Dalí: Biblia Sacra & Divine Comedy - art print exhibition Blejska Pristava, Cesta Svobode 22, Bled 10 Jul 2009 - 12 November 2009, 10:00-19:00

Afel Bocoum & Alkibar (Mali) - world music Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Linhart Hall 26 October 2009, 20:15

Barbara Bulatović (Slovenia): From a Sketch to a Puppet - sketches, puppets, video and photogtaphs Bežigrajska galerija 1 27 Aug 2009 - 21 October 2009

The Slackers (USA) - ska, jazz, soul Gala hala (Metelkova mesto alternative culture centre) 26 October 2009, 21:00

After Go-Go: A New Era of Korean Art Galerija Cankarjev dom 04 September 2009 - 20 October 2009

Evening of lieder with Matjaž Robavs (baritone) Slovenian Philharmonic 27 October 2009, 19:30

Re: ZEK - graffiti and design exhibition Galerija Avla NLB 17 September 2009 - 11 November 2009

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2009

Culture & Events Motivation, Creativity and InNovemberativity of Art Prints by Children International Centre of Graphic Arts 13 October 2009 - 18 October 2009 Petra Veber (Slovenia): Time and Space - site specific installation Ljubljana Castle. The Pentagonal Tower 15 October 2009 - 19 November 2009 Miha Štrukelj - works on paper City Art Museum 19 October 2009 - 08 November 2009 Manolo Dimas (Spain) - paintings Ljubljana Castle, Hribar’s Hall 21 October 2009 - 05 November 2009 Dušan Tršar (SLO) - retrospective sculpture exhibition Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre) CD Gallery 29 October 2009 - 15 December 2009 Štefan Galič (Slovenia) - paintings, graphics International Centre of Graphic Arts 12 November 2009 - 10 Jan 2010 Elka Kovačević (Serbia) - video City Art Museum - Permanent Collection Section 16 November 2009 - 06 December 2009 Antonio Živkovič (Slovenia) - retrospective exhibition of photographs City Art Museum 23 November 2009 - 13 December 2009

Museums Glass Case of the Quarter: Beavers have returned to Slovenia Slovenian Museum of Natural History 02 February 2009 - 31 December 2009 The Ljubljanica: A River and Its Past National Museum of Slovenia 26 February 2009 - 30 October 2009 Stanko Bloudek (1890 - 1959) Technical Museum of Slovenia 24 April 2009 - 29 November 2009 Napoleon says: Illyria arise! - exhibition marking the 200th anniversary of the establishment of the Illyrian Provinces City Museum of Ljubljana 12 May 2009 - 31 October 2009 M a rim ekko (F in na ln d) - tex tile, clothin g a n d architectural design exhibition Slovene Ethnographic Museum 02 Jul 2009 - 18 October 2009

80 Years of Plečnik’s Monument to Napoleon Architecture Museum of Ljubljana - Fužine Castle 01 October 2009 - 15 November 2009 Under the Napoleonic Eagle: 200th Anniversary of the Foundation of the Illyrian Provinces National Museum of Slovenia - the museum’s building in the Metelkova ulica street 14 October 2009 - 28 February 2010 Greetings from Cartoonia - comic books and comic book prints Slovene Ethnographic Museum 22 October 2009 - 29 November 2009

Theatre

Hanna Preuss: Shadows.thoughts.drawings.cadence - multimedial performance Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre) Duša Počkaj Hall 03, 04, 06 October 2009, 20:00 M i c h a e l W i n s l o w (U S A) - s t a n d u p c o m e d y performance Grand hotel Union - Executive. The Union Hall 05 October 2009, 20:00 N e n a d Ve l i č kov i ć: S a h i b - I m p r e s s i o n s f r o m Depression Kavarna Union (within the Grand hotel Union) 10, 30 October 2009, 20:00 Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre) 13 February 2010, 18:00, 18:00 Damian Clarke (Australia) - stand - up comedy performance Pr’ Semaforju 16 October 2009, 21:00 J. Janša (Slovenia), D. JovaNovemberić (Slovenia): Spomenik G2 / Memorial G2 - theatre - dance performance Ljubljana City Theatre 22 October 2009, 20:00 Oleg Soulimenko (Russia) & Andrej AndrioNovember (R u s s i a): M a d e i n R u s s i a - d a n c e - t h e a t r e performance Old Power Plant 26 October 2009, 20:00 Urška Vohar (Slovenia), Irena Tomažin (Slovenia), Hanna Preuss (Slovenia): Leotard (triko), Ptih! - dance performance Old Power Plant 27 October 2009, 20:00

Dance

Three Northern Views - works by various Finnish photographers Slovene Ethnographic Museum 02 Jul 2009 - 18 October 2009

Riverdance (Ireland) - music and dance spectacle Dvorana Tivoli (sports hall) 30 September 2009, 20:00 01 October 2009, 20:00

My Observatories: Pavel Kunaver, a Pioneer of slovenian Amateur Astronomy - biographical exhibition Technical Museum of Slovenia 16 September 2009 - 02 December 2009

Salsa Power - 6th Salsa Festival Festival Hall 09 October 2009 - 11 October 2009 Bu-Ba dvorana (sports hall) 09 October 2009 - 11 October 2009

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

culture & Events

AUTUMN 2009 RONČEL’S SELECTION 28. 10.-30. 11.

28. 10. MIKE STERN BAND feat. RANDY BRECKER & DAVE WECKL & CHRIS MINH DOKY

(MIKE STERN guitar, RANDY BRECKER trumpet, CHRIS MINH DOKY electric & acoustic bass, DAVE WECKL drums)

9.11. MARCUS MILLER ‘Tutu Revisited’ The Music of Miles Davis feat. Christian Scott

(MARCUS MILLER bass, bass clarinet, CHRISTIAN SCOTT trumpet, ALEX HAN saxophone, FEDERICO GONZALES PENA keyboards, RONALD BRUNER drums)

12.11. GURU’S JAZZMATAZZ feat. SOLAR & THE 7 GRAND PLAYERS THE PIONEERS OF HIPHOP/JAZZ CROSSOVER

(GURU vocals, SOLAR vocals, DJ DOO WOP turnatbles, BROWNMAN trumpet, DAVID SCOTT flute, guitar, saxophone, keyboards)

16. 11. NILS PETTER MOLVAER JAZZ/AMBIENT/ELECTRONIC & BREAK BEATS/ROCK... FROM NORWAY

(NILS PETTER MOLVAER trumpet, STIAN WESTERHUS guitar, AUDUN KLEIVE drums)

22. 11. TONY ALLEN AFROBEAT

(TONY ALLEN drums, OROBIYI ADUNNI ‘AYO’ vocals, FIXI keyboards, CLAUDE DIBONGUE guitar, KOLOBGO guitar, RODY CEREYON bass, NICOLAS GIRAUD trumpet, JEAN-JACQUES ELANGUE tenor saxophone)

30. 11. ROBBEN FORD SOUL/BLUES/JAZZ/ROCK

(ROBBEN FORD guitars, vocals, TRAVIS CARLTON bass, TOSS PANOS drums) Kino Šiška Centre for Urban Culture Trg prekomorskih brigad 3 1000 Ljubljana www.kinosiska.si Box Office: Monday - Friday 15.00-20.00, Saturday 10.00-13.00 +386 30 310 110 +386 1 500 30 00

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October - November 2009

Culture & events Program of Kino Šiška Centre For Urban Culture October 2, 21:00 STEPHAN MATHIEU (Nem) Zvočni performans z nevsakdanjo izvedbo del sodobnih klasikov. October 3, 19:00 KHAN (Berlin) Electro-rock-kabare show Za fene Jona Spencerja, Jamiea Lidella, Brigitte Fontaine October 8, 21:00 MORITZ VON OSWALD TRIO feat. VLADISLAV DELAY & MAX LODERBAUER Definitivno eden izmed vrhuncev elektronskih gostovanj letošnje jeseni. October 10, 20:00 DALAJ EGOL – ALI EN (Slo) Povratniški koncert ob petnajsti obletnici izida prvega albuma Leva Scena in deseti obletnici drugega albuma Smetana Za Frende, October 19, 20:00 MUD POP FEST: MUDHONEY, The Frictions, Dicky B.Hardy (ZDA) Mudhoney so utelešenje seattleskega zvoka in sodijo med sveto trojico (z Nirvano in Soundgarden) znamenite Sub Pop založbe. October 16, 20:00 DIAMANDA GALAS (ZDA) Prva diva undergrounda October 22, 20:00 YU GO! – 2.del: E PLAY (Srb), BILK (Hr), DANCE MAMBLITA (Slo)

October 31, 21:00 PAN SONIC (Fin) Temelji avantgardne elektronike! November 3, 21:00 PORCUPINE TREE (ZDA) Najaktualnejši progresivni rock band! November 9, 21:00 MARCUS MILLER BAND Izbor Braneta Rončela November 10, 21:00 KTL (Stephen O’Malley & Peter Rehberg) & NOCTIFERIA Art-Metal meets Metal-Metal November 11, 20:00 LYDIA LUNCH (ZDA) November 12, 21:00 GURU’S JAZZMATAZZ Izbor Braneta Rončela November 13, 21:00 IMPERIAL NEVER SAY DIE TOUR November 16, 21:00 NILS PETTER MOLVAER (Nor) Izbor Braneta Rončela November 22, 21:00 TONY ALLEN (NG) Izbor Braneta Rončela November 24, 21:00 LIVING COLOUR (ZDA)

October 26, 21:00 KULTUR SHOCK (ZDA, Jap, BIH)) Etno-punk atrakcija!

November 26, 21:00 YU GO! -3.del: DUBIOZA KOLEKTIV (BiH), HAIN TENY (Srb), BRO (Slo)

October 28, 21:00 MIKE STERN BAND (ZDA) Izbor Braneta Rončela

November 30, 21:00 ROBBEN FORD (ZDA) Izbor Braneta Rončela

For more information please visit: www.kinosiska.si. BOX OFFICE: +386 30 310 110

Šoking Gala Šov various locations 21 October 2009 - 27 October 2009 Kud Samosvoj: Parfum - theatre- dance performance Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Štih Hall 13 - 17 November 2009, 20:00

Opera & Ballet F. Lehár: The Merry Widow - operette Cankarjev dom (cultural and congress centre), Linhart Hall 13,14,15,16 October 2009, 19:30

€1 buys you music and good karma

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Urška Hrastnik

Slovenian National Theatre - The Opera and Ballet of Ljubljana and soloists - oratorial concert 22-24 October 2009, 19:30

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Culture & events Cinemas

Tickets

(+386) 1241 84 11, www.kolosej.si. Recently renovated, this is a charming cinema to visit for a mix of Hollywood and other films. Kinoteka C-2, Miklošičeva 28, tel. (+386) 1547 15 80, www.kinoteka.si. The place for non-Hollywood, art house and European films. Be sure to check the spoken language beforehand. Kolosej J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520 55 00, www.kolosej.si. A big multiscreen cinema showing popular films inside the BTC shopping area.

Tickets for events can usually be purchased in advance at the venue, or from ticket agencies.

Kinoklub Vič A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 6, tel.

Concert halls

Festivalna Dvorana H-2, Vilharjeva 11, tel. (+386)

1234 82 00, tajnistvo@pionirski-dom.si, www.pionirskidom.si. A large concert and event hall built by none other than local lad Plečnik. Hala Tivoli A-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430 67 50, justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si. Philharmonic (Slovenska Filharmonija) B-3, Kongresni Trg 10, tel. (+386) 1241 08 00, info@filharmonija.si, www.filharmonija.si. A century old in 2008, the esteemed Philharmonic Orchestra performs regularly with Lebanese-born chief conductor George Pehlivanian and various guest conductors. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00.

Cultural Centres

Österreich Institut (Austrian Institute) B-3, Trg

Francoske Revolucije 6, tel. (+386) 1426 99 70, www. oesterreichinstitut.si. German language courses, lectures, films, exhibitions and other events. QOpen , Mon, Tue 10:00 - 18:30, Fri 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun. Open, Mon, Tue 10:00-18:30, Fri 10:00-16:00. Cankarjev dom A-3, Prešernova 10, tel. (+386) 1241 71 00, info@cd-cc.si, www.cd-cc.si. This complex from the early 1980s is a major venue for concerts, theatre, dance, film, exhibitions and congresses.

Instituto Cervantes (Spanish cultural institute)

C-4, Privoz 11, tel. (+386) 1421 06 84, fax (+386) 1421 06 85, aula.liubliana@cer vantes.es, w w w. cer vantes.es. Th e Spanish insti tu te has no librar y but does offer language courses and organises events. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00, Fri 12:00 - 15:00. Closed Wed, Thu, Sat, Sun. Kino Šiška (Urban Cultural Centre) Trg Prekomorskih Brigad 3, tel. (+386) 30 31 01 00, info@kinosiska. si, www.kinosiska.si. After nearly a year of renovation, one the city’s most iconic cinemas reopened its doors in August as an urban cultural centre featuring several state-of-the-art preformance halls and exhibition spaces. Dedicated to promoting contemporary music, theatre, dance and experimental events, it already attracts big-name regional and international artists, and is scheduled to hosts around 200 events per year. Most concerts are held in its largest multi-purpose hall, dubbed ‘the Cathedral’, which can fit over 800 people. Check out their English language website for more info and a full schedule of events.

Metelkova Mesto (Alternative Culture Centre) D-2, Masarykova 24, www.metelkova.org.

Galleries

Equrna B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 71 23,

equrna@volja.net, www.equrna.si. Modern art in an elegant white, arched space. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. No admission.

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ESITI (Programski atelje A&Z) G-2, Cesta na

Brdo 17, tel. (+386) 125 72 906, podpora@esiti. com, www.mojekarte.si. Q To 31 May: 10:00-19:00. From 1 June: 8:00-22:00 Eventim A-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1430 24 05, info@eventim.si, www.eventim.si/portal/en. Online ticket sales for more than 3,000 events per year, including concerts, sports, and cultural events across Slovenia and Central Europe. Check the offer of events and buy tickets before you even arrive in Slovenia.

Ljubljana Tourist Information Office at the Railway Station C-1, Trg Osvobodilne fronte 6, tel.

(+386) 1433 94 75, ticzp@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.si. The events ticketing office inside the railway station Q October-May: 10:00-19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday closed Tourist Information Centre C-3, Adamič-Lundrovo nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 1306 12 15, tic@visitljubljana.si, www.visitljubljana.si. Tickets for concerts, shows and other events. Q Open October-May 08:0019:00, June-September 08:00-21:00.

Ganes Pratt B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1251 16

33/(+386) 1251 16 34, info@ganes.si, www.ganes. si. QOpen 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Mestna galerija 1 B-3, Mestni Trg 5, tel. (+386) 1241 17 70, mestna.galerija-lj@siol.net, www.mestnagalerija.si. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Mon. Škuc Gallery B-3, Stari Trg 21, tel./fax (+386) 1421 31 40, www.galerija.skuc-drustvo.si. Q Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon.

Theatres

City Theatre (Mestno Gledališče Ljubljansko)

B-2, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1251 08 52, info@mgl.si, www.mgl.si. The MGL has two stages that are the home of modern, progressive drama since the Yugoslav era. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Kavarna Union B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1308 17 63, www.gh-union.si. The stage of the Kavarna Union coffee house, inside the Grand Hotel Union. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Križanke Open Air Theatre B-3, Trg Francoske Revolucije 1, tel. (+386) 1241 60 26.

National Drama Theatre (Narodno Gledališče Drama) B-3, Erjavčeva 1, tel. (+386) 1252 15 11, drama@drama.si, www.drama.si. With its roots reaching back to the 1860s, Slovenia’s national theatre stages plays from all eras. Q Open 14:00 - 17:00 and 18:00 to showtime, Sat 18:00 to showtime, Sun closed. Puppet Theatre (Lutkovno Gledališče) C-3, Krekov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1300 09 70, www.lgl.si. QOpen 16:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. The box office is open Monday to Friday from 16:00 to 18:00, Saturday from 10:00 to 12:00, and during the hour prior to each performance. Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre B-2, Cankarjeva 11/1, tel. (+386) 1241 17 66, info@opera. si, www.opera.si. A beautiful neo-Renaissence theatre in the city centre that’s used for various classical performances. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

October - November 2009

Conferences & fairs Slovenia’s well-developed infrastructure, stable economy and position at the crossroads of Western, Central and Southeastern Europe make it a popular location for international conferences, trade fairs and exhibitions.

NaTour: 1st Travel and Trade Show for Active Holidays Bovec, Slovenia www.natour.si 8 - 11 October Located in the Soča River Valley in Slovenia’s Julian Alps, Bovec is one of the centres of active holidays and outdoor sports in the entire Alpine region. As such the Bovec Local Tourist Board has organised this first annual trade show not only to bring together sports tourism and active holiday providers with tour operators and agencies, interested associations and potential buyers and investors, but also to promote the all the region has to offer to a wider audience. 12th International Multiconference: Information Society 2009 Jožef Stefan Institute http://is.ijs.si/vabilo_eng.asp?lang=eng 12 - 16 October 2009

6th International Conference on Education for Sustainable Development, Creativity and Innovation Grand Hotel Union http://www.ljubljana09.eu 1 - 3 October SPA-CE: 1st Exhibition of Spa and Wellness Tourism in Central Europe Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre (Gospodarsko Razstavišče) www.spa-ce.si 1 - 4 October Although wellness tourism is by no means new, it is one of the fastest growing categories of the tourism sector and an area where Slovene companies have excelled for decades. The exhibition was conceived by the Slovenian Spa Association as a forum where the largest providers of spa and wellness services from Slovenia and elsewhere in Europe can meet with travel organisers, tourist agencies, insurance representative and other potential customers and partners. Dimensions of the Illiryan Provinces 1809 – 2009 Slovene Academy of Sciences and Arts 4 - 16 October 2009 The 5th European Association of Addiction Therapy Cankarjev dom 5- 7 October 2009

9th Meeting of the European Association of Urology– EAU Cankarjev dom http://cem.uroweb.org 22 - 24 October 2009 Adriatic Vascular Summit 2009 Cankarjev dom http://www.adriatic-vascular-summit.org/home-invitation 23 - 24 October 2009 Ljubljana Furniture Fair Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre 02 - 08 November 2009 16th Neolithic Seminar Bodies, Rituals and Religions in Eurasian Early Prehistory Faculty of Arts http://arheologija.ff.uni-lj.si/seminars/index_si.html 6 - 7 November 2009 Federation of European Psychological Societies - FEPS Faculty of Medicine http://lnmcp.mf.uni-lj.si/index.html 12 - 15 November 2009 Snowflake - skiing fair Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre 19 - 22 November 2009

Golden Drum: 16th Advertising Festival and Media Meeting Portorož, Slovenia www.goldendrum.com 5 - 9 October The Golden Drum is one of Europe’s foremost advertising events, encompassing an industry-wide ProExpo attracting over 2,000 advertising people from 400 companies in countries; the official Golden Drum competition awarding prizes in dozens of advertising and media categories; and various sponsored Off Drum competitions that are freely open to the general public and range from creative bird watching posters to a mobile phone film festival.

SEMPL 12: Media Trends Seminar Grand Hotel Bernadin Portorož, Slovenia sempl.si 26 - 27 November First held 12 years ago as a seminar for media planning, since then it’s grown into a full-fledged media festival with two days of lectures and seminars on various media topics like news trends, risks and benefits of trends and the future of media. SEMPLER, a media strategy competition, runs concurrently with the Golden SEMPLER awarded across six different categories and the Grand SEMPLER awarded for the biggest media breakthrough of the year. Even for non-media types the festival is well-known for the nightly parties that engulf Portorož while it’s being held. The deadline for submissions is Monday, 2 November.

Student Arena Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre 13 - 15 October 2009, 12:00-19:00

Camping & Caravaning Festival Ljubljana Exhibition and Convention Centre 26 - 29 November 2009

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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culture & Events

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October - November 2009

sports Based on abundant anecdotal evidence and various informal surveys, Slovenes rank as some of the most active people in the world. Ask anyone what their plans are for the weekend and you’re almost guaranteed to hear the words cycling, hiking, skiing or tennis depending on the season - although even rain and snow hardly seem to discourage most people from packing up the kids and heading to the mountains or into the countryside for a day of family fun. If you’re similarly inclined, or just feeling guilty by comparison, there are virtually endless opportunities to get out there and work up a sweat.

Badminton, Squash

Bit Center Hotel F-3, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 1548 00 55, www.bit-center.net. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Millenium J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 15 00, millenium@btc.si, www.millenium.btc.si. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00.

Bowling

Arena Vodafone live! - Gladiator (BTC Center)

J-1/2, Šmar tinska 152, tel. (+386) 1520 55 80, info@kolosej.si, w w w.arenalive.si. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. Klub300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. (+386) 1510 39 40, info@bowlingklub300.com, w ww.bowlingklub300. com. Q Open 14:00 - 24:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. In summer bowling is available every day from 17:00.

Dance School

Salsoteca A/B-1, Celovška 175, tel. (+386) 31 31 48 05, www.salsoteca.si. QOpen 17:00 - 19:30. Closed Sat.

Fitness

Bit Sport Center J-2, Litijska 57, tel. (+386) 1548 00 55, hotel@bit-center.net. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Fit&Fun Center B-2, Dalmatinova 2, tel. (+386) 1239

61 74, info@fit-funcenter.si, www.fit-funcenter.si. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. Konex center G-2, Cesta na Brdo 109, tel. (+386) 1241 40 00, info@konex-center.si, www.konex-center. si. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat 09:00 - 22:00. Sokol Group d.o.o. H-3, Koprska 72, tel. (+386) 1200 27 50, fax (+386) 1200 27 57, uprava@sokolgroup.com, www.sokolgroup.com. Operates three fitness centres in Ljubljana with aerobics, saunas and tanning facilities. The gym near the city centre, located in Tivoli Park, also features a swimming pool and a sports nutrition shop. It’s the perfect place to go if your muscles need some pumping or you want to find a swimming pool close to work. Sokol Tivoli Fitness center A-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1300 37 55, sokoltivoli@sokolgroup.com, www.sokolgroup.com. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Sunny H-1, Regentova 37, tel. (+386) 1513 44 44, www. sunny.si. QOpen 07:30 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 21:00.

Golf

Golf klub barje Dunajska 156, tel. (+386) 1568 70 07, gcbarje@golf-klub-barje.si, w w w.golf-klubbarje.si. Golf Trnovo Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 41 76 64 40, info@ golftrnovo.com, www.golftrnovo.com.

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Paintball

Kraljev Hrib Kamniška Bistrica 2, 1242 Stahovica, tel. (+386) 1832 72 50/(+386) 041 816 477, info@ kraljevhrib-sp.si, www.kraljevhrib-sp.si. Located near the cable car at the foot of the Alps in Velika Planina, the ‘King of the Hill’ sports and recreation centre is best known as the foremost promoter of one of Slovenia’s newest pastimes: paintball. Since they opened the country’s first paintball club in 1992, the sport has gone on to build quite a following among Slovenes, who turn out year-round to shoot their friends, family members and co-workers with balls of paint.

Swimming

Atlantis Water Park J-2, Šmar tinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 21 00, vodnomesto@btc.si, www.atlantis-vodnomesto.si. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00. Admission €7,90/6,50. Kodeljevo F-3, Gortanova 21, tel. (+386) 1520 13 00, slovan@siol.net, www.slovan.si. Q Outdoor pool open 09:00-19:00 in Aug. Admission €6/4,50. Laguna Spa & Fun H/J-1, Dunajska 270, tel. (+386) 1568 39 13, laguna@gpl.si, www.laguna.si. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Admission €13/11. Plavalni klub Ilirija A-1, Celovška 3, tel. (+386) 1439 75 80, pkilirija@siol.net, www.plavalniklub-ilirija.si. Recreational Center Tivoli A-1, Celovška 25, tel. (+386) 1431 51 50, justina.gosak@zavod-tivoli.si, www.zavod-tivoli.si. QOpen 06:00 - 11:00; 18:00-23:00, Mon 18:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Outdoor pool open 09:00-19:00. Admission €6/4,50.

Tennis

Breskvar Tennis Academy J-1, Tesovnikova 74, tel. (+386) 1568 38 19, tennis.breskvar@siol.net, www. tenis-klub-breskvar.si. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Gradiant J-1, Pot K Savi 45, tel. (+386) 1537 30 47, info@gradiant.si, www.gradiant.si. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Kodeljevo sports park F-3, Gortanova 21, tel. (+386) 1520 13 00, slovan@siol.net, www.slovan.si. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00.

Events 30th Mt. Šmarna Gora Run The run will start from the Rocen Sports Park at the foot of Mt. Šmarna gora 03 October 2009, 10:00 3rd International Ljubljana Kayaking Marathon Start: under the Prule Bridge. Finish: at the Triple Bridge. 24 October 2009 14th Ljubljana Marathon City centre and its surrounding areas (starting from the Šubičeva cesta street and finishing in the Trg republike square) 25 October 2009, 10:30 Šiška Gym International - international gymnastics championship for women ŠD Gib Šiška Sports Hall, Drenikova ulica 32 06 - 07 November 2009

October - November 2009

Where to stay Not surprisingly for a popular tourist and business destination, Ljubljana provides a wide range of accommodation options to suit all tastes and budgets. As you’d expect, prices creep up the closer you get to the centre, but the cost of a night here still remains relatively low in comparison with western Europe. The city’s popularity does mean however that places do book up for the summer. Ensuring you get yourself the room the want in the location you want and for the price you want during the summer is highly recommended.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

O Casino

H Conference facilities

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

F Fitness centre

L Guarded parking

R Internet

G Non-smoking rooms

K Restaurant

J Old town location

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

Over €170

Grand Hotel Union Business B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1308 11 70, fax (+386) 1308 19 14, hotel. business@gh-union.si, www.gh-union.si. Attached to its sibling Executive hotel and sharing some but not all of the facilities on offer, accommodation comes in a choice of rooms and suites with a slightly feminine touch, but not enough to put off the serious male business traveller. Shared facilities include a grand total of 21 conference and banqueting rooms, secure parking and the pleasing fact that the best sights and leisure activities in the city are all close at hand. Check out their extensive website for further information. Q 327 rooms (singles €178-212, doubles €193-227, suites €372-446). PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

Grand Hotel Union Executive B-2, Miklošičeva 1, tel.

(+386) 1308 12 70, hotel.union@gh-union.si, www.ghunion.si. In a great location in the heart of the city centre, the Executive offers fine accommodation in a range of tastefully decorated rooms, suites and apartments. Complete with a lovely old world, Art Nouveau ambience, expect an excellent choice of facilities for both business and leisure. Extras include two decent restaurants, a small bar, airport shuttle service and a decent gift shop. In keeping with its reputation, the hotel also hosts the local bridge club, who meet every Monday at 18:00. Q 327 rooms (singles €194-233, doubles €209-248, suites €455-546). PJHAR6UFLGKDXCW hhhh

Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 21 55, info@ hotel-lev.si, www.hotel-lev.si. Ljubljana’s only five-star hotel started business in 1964 and boasts a pedigree that’s managed to entice such notable celebrities as Agatha Christie, Kirk Douglas and Sting in its time. A glistening marble lobby serves as a fine overture to over 170 high quality, air-conditioned rooms from singles through to some exceedingly posh suites, all complete with facilities including soundproof windows, cable television and a choice of internet connections. Extras include popularbusiness and conference services, a restaurant specialising in some fine Mediterranean dishes and a large gambling hall in the basement Q 173 rooms (singles €200, doubles €240, business rooms €250, suites €300). POJHARUFGKXW hhhhh Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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Where to stay

Hotel Listings Policy Hotels are listed strictly by price band, and then by alphabetical order within that band. The price band refers to the rack rate for a double room.

Mons G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 1470 27 00,

fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.mons.si, www. hotel.mons.si. Along the highway to the west of the city and close to the zoo, Mons is the city’s only combined hotel and congress centre, and a very good one it is indeed. From the magnificent works of art in the lobby (indeed, Mons markets itself as the country’s first designer hotel) to the glorious rooms, this place really is just what the doctor ordered. Indoor facilities are many, including gym and sauna. The congress facilities are state of the art. Q 110 rooms (singles €112-210), doubles €137-235, suites €257-355). PTHAR6FLGKDXW hhhh

€100-170

Allegr o B-3, Gornji Tr g 6, tel. (+386) 59 119

620/(+386) 041 557 908, info@allegrohotel.si, www.allegrohotel.si. We can’t decide whether to call it an upmarket B&B or a cosy boutique hotel, but semantics aside there’s a lot to like. Just opened in mid-July, when we visited they were still putting the finishing touches on after six months of renovation. The 12 individually designed rooms each feature a different colour scheme with deep purples, reds, blues and greens most prevalent, along with gorgeous wall paper and faux-antique furnishings. Several large common areas add to the overall charm, including a great lounge, a courtyard out back and a breakfast room

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

in the cellar that could easily be mistaken for a restaurant. Definitely a welcome addition to Ljubljana’s hotel scene. Q 12 rooms (singles €95-115, doubles €130-150). PJARBW

Antiq B/C-3, Gornji Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1421 35 60, fax

(+386) 1421 35 65, info@antiqhotel.si, www.antiqhotel. si. A superb location in the heart of the old town with a host of rooms to suit all tastes and budgets. Featuring a welcoming little lobby with lots of nice feminine touches, the rooms have been given a distinctly boutique hotel feel, with huge wooden beds, patterned carpets, interesting paintings on the walls and some really smart pieces of furniture. Even the small budget economy rooms have been approached with a tasteful eye, whereas at the other end of the spectrum the superiors come with bags of space, lovely chandeliers and magnificent bathrooms. Room 13 on the other hand takes a different, more modernistic approach, with wooden floors and minimalist furniture. Q 16 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €156-172, extra bed €48). PJAR6IGW hhhh

Austria Trend H-1, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) 1588 25 00, fax (+386) 1588 25 99, ljubljana@austria-trend. at, www.austria-trend.at/lju. Two kilometres north of the city centre near the highway, this vast business class hotel that also caters to the better standard of tourist provides high quality rooms in four different categories from good to exceptionally good, plus a range of other excellent services and facilities including wellness centre, top notch conference amenities, restaurants, a fine cocktail bar and a fun oyster and sushi bar. Popular for both relaxing business stays as well as a variety of different functions, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better hotel of this type in the city. Q 214 rooms (singles €100-125, doubles €140-220, suites €130-210, apartments €225). POHAUFGKDXW

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Where to stay

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October - November 2009

Where to stay Best Western Premier Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel.

(+386) 1470 11 00, fax (+386) 1251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, www.hotelslon.com. On the site of the oldest hotel in Ljubljana, the Slon is the best value stay in the city. For a very reasonable price you get a ton of luxury, from a pillow menu (yes, really) to sheets of only the purest cotton. The breakfast - served in a large, light and airy dining room - is a buffet affair of the highest quality: you should turn up early if you want to have time to taste everything. Add in a small fitness centre and sauna, free Wifi, home entertainment centres in every room, tremendous service and a location in the very heart of the city, and you have one hell of a package. Q 171 rooms (singles €75 - 134, doubles €110-160, triples €165-180, suites €201-335). PJHAR6UIGKDXW hhhh

Central B-2, Miklošičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1308 43 00, fax

(+386) 1230 11 81, central.hotel@gh-union.si, www.centralhotel.si. The classic four-star hotel experience, the Garni is the little brother of the three Union hotels in the city, but that doesn’t necessarily make him a weakling. Geared up exceptionally well for the tourist market, the reception is crammed with the latest useful information about the city and surrounding region, plus there’s bicycle hire during the summer. The combined bar-restaurant isn’t too bad either, and the rooms feature everything you need for a good value stay right in the heart of the city centre. Excellent value accommodation indeed. Q 74 rooms (singles €90-167, doubles €100-197, suites €286-343). PJHAR6FGKDXCW hhhh

Kongo Hotel & Casino Ljubljanska 65, Grosuplje, tel. (+386) 1781 02 00, fax (+386) 1781 02 50, info@ kongo-hc.com, www.kongo-hc.com. The casino that’s themed with a touch of Africa also offers accommodation in standard business-class hotel rooms with elegant furnishings, internet and satellite TV. Along the Ljubljana-Zagreb highway. Free airport or station pickups possible. Q 39 rooms (singles €70, doubles €116-134, apartments €150). POHAR6UGKXW hhhh

M hotel H-2, Derčeva 4, tel. (+386) 1513 70 00, fax (+386) 1513 70 90, info@m-hotel.si, www.m-hotel.si. Five minutes out of the centre on the road to Bled, this fine, modern business class hotel comes with over 150 well appointed rooms, all with cable television, en suite bathrooms, free wireless internet access and 40 extra-length beds for those who need it. Excellent value for what you get, extras include restaurant, summer terrace, car rental and a hairdresser. Q 154 rooms (singles €61-135, doubles €77-168). PHAR6ULGKXW hhh

€70-100

Ahotel H-3, Cesta Dveh Cesarjev 34d, tel. (+386) 1429

18 92, fax (+386) 1429 12 54, reception@ahotel.si, www.ahotel.si. A rather fabulous-looking endeavour for a three-star, heavy on the cool brown tones, woods and wickerwork, find it not far from the centre and aimed at both the business and independent traveller. The rooms are nicely decorated each coming with en suite bathrooms, flatscreen televisions and wireless internet access. Other facilities include secure parking, two conference facilities for 80 people, a nice bar, and the opportunity to borrow a laptop if yours is broken or lost in transit. Q 26 rooms (singles €70-110, doubles €80-150). PTALGKW hhh

Kavarna Maček Rooms B-3, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386)

1425 37 91, macek@lj-kabel.net. With rooms this beautiful and a location this fantastic, you’ll be the envy of other travellers. These rooms are along the river and above the popular Maček cafe and are beautifully renewed in a tasteful modern

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

style. The rooms are mostly singles and doubles for couples, but is also space for the travelling family. In the morning, head down to the cafe for a coffee and breakfast and at night grab one last drink before heading up to your glorious temporary apartment. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. 4 rooms (singles €55, doubles €96). PTJA6GBKS

Park D-2, Tabor 9, tel. (+386) 1300 25 00, info@hotel-

park.si, www.hotelpark.si. The brightly coloured tower block that is Hotel (and Hostel) Park conceals a number of good value standard, comfort, family rooms and suites, all providing different amenities depending on the cost. All of the rooms in hotel come with en suite facilities,TV, telephone, hairdryer, the comfort one also including a LAN internet connection, air conditioning and mini-bar. There’s a restaurant and bar as well, and a free internet connection in the lobby. Daytrips around Slovenia plus airport pick-up also available on request. Q 200 rooms (singles €60-110, doubles €80-150, apartments €150-180). PTJHAR6GXW hhh

Stil K-2, Litijska 188, tel. (+386) 1548 43 43, hotel@

hotel-stil.si, www.hotel-stil.si. On the edges of the eastern city limits, Stil’s appeal is geared towards those who like there surrounding bucolic rather than urban and who don’t mind driving in and out of the city for their business. This rather oddlooking building houses a range of rooms and apartments. All facilities are air conditioned, coming with en suite bathrooms, minibars and wireless internet. A small meeting room is also available. Q 24 rooms (singles €72, doubles €75-90, triples €108, apartments €90-170) . PHARLG hhh

Under €70

Medno Medno 54, Medno, tel. (+386) 1362 61 00, fax

(+386) 1362 61 16, recepcija@hotel-medno.si, www. hotel-medno.si. Nine kilometres out of Ljubljana on the road towards Kranj, the Medno provides good accommodation in a range of rooms. This good-value hotel also gives the business traveller opportunities to unwind with the massage and Jacuzzi services. Q 93 beds (singles €54-69, doubles €6888, suites €88-108). PHAR6LGKXW hhh

Stari Tišler C-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430 33 70, fax

(+386) 1 430 33 75, info@stari-tisler.com, www.stari-tisler. com. Cheap and cheerful budget accommodation in a charming old building in the city centre. There are six rooms, which you will find at the top of a glorious staircase, and which, while they share bathroom facilities, do come with televisions. The triples are great value. There’s a good breakfast included, which in the summer is served outside in the courtyard, and an internet corner. Q 6 rooms (doubles €44, triples €66). PJALGBK

Hostels

Alibi B-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje 27, tel. (+386) 1251 12

44, fax (+386) 125 11 245, info@alibi.si, www.alibi.si. You’ll be hard-pressed to find a better located hostel in Ljubljana. Right in the heart of the centre of the city, Alibi is a hostel that is actually a lot bigger than it originally seems. In here you’ll find all types of room. You can choose how many people you want to share the room with depending on how much you enjoy snoring. All of them decorated in different graffiti motifs. The staff is super friendly and always at hand if you need something. Try to get the cooler rooms. One has a great balcony overlooking the river and there’s another one that’s a separate apartment on the top of the building. There’s a locked room next to it with metal doors that looks like a prison cell, but it actually adds to the atmosphere. Q Open 24 hours. 106 beds (double bed €20, four bed private €17, six bed private €20, dormitory €17). PJAR6LEGW h

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Where to stay

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October - November 2009

Where to stay

NEW

Azur Cesta na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 40 636 205. Located in Rožna Dolina, a quiet student and residential neighbourhood southwest of the city centre, this cosy hostel occupying an apartment above a popular Italian restaurant of the same name has the cheapest beds in town. The friendly owner, Marko, provides free pick-up from both the airport and train station, and will generally do what he can to make you feel at home. If you come on your own bus 14 stops right across the road and you can’t miss the bright orange building. However, there’s not always someone at reception so it’s a good idea to arrange your arrival in advance. Q 20 beds (11-bed dorm €12, 9-bed dorm €13). ALK

Celica D-2, Metelkova ulica 8, tel. (+386) 1230 97 00,

info@souhostel.com, www.hostelcelica.com. Ljubljana’s legendary Celica hostel and surrounding buildings close to the stations and the city centre started life in the 19th century as an Austro-Hungarian military barracks. Once a prison, many of Celica’s rooms have been kept almost as they were, providing a cheap and definitely quirky place to spend the night behind bars. Other rooms are also available as well as dormitories to sleep from four to 12 people. There’s even a room for disabled guests, plus a huge range of other facilities such as kitchen, laundry, internet access, tourist information and bicycle hire. The hostel’s café serves an excellent value set lunch every day. Q 29 rooms (rooms €23-25 per bed, dorms €16-18 per bed). PJHAR6ULGKW h

Fluxus B-2, Tomšičeva 4, tel. (+386) 1251 57 60, info@ fluxus-hostel.com, www.fluxus-hostel.com. A clean, brightly-colored, and award-winning hostel in a beautiful old building in the center of town, its small size actually adds to its comfort. The hostel features two large dormitory style rooms with bunk beds and one bathroom for all to share,

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

plus one more private room with its own bathroom facilities. It also has a working kitchen and lounge area, and a friendly staff that make you feel happy to be there. Q 3 rooms (double €33,33, dormitory €21,11). JR6G hh

Park D-2, Tabor 9, tel. (+386) 1300 25 00, fax (+386)

1300 25 18, info@hotelpark.si, www.hotelpark.si. Located inside the same building as the Park Hotel and offering the same communal facilities, Hostel Park provides a range of decent quality communal rooms for two to four people, some coming with en suite bathroom facilities and some having to share. Q 42 rooms (twin €23-29, quad dorm beds €19-23). JAGKXW

Rugby Pub & Hostel B-3, Židovska 6, tel. (+386) 1426 40 62. This is a rather ambient, unforgettable pub across the Ljubljanica River from the old town. It serves a chilled Guinness within a traditional, homely British setting: walls bursting with memorabilia and soft green carpeting. If the pub is like your second home, and you would like to stay in a familiar setting to what feels like home, best opt to stay in one of the rooms above. Be warned, it might get a bit rowdy in the evenings, especially when a game is on telly. Vila Veselova A-3, Veselova 14, tel. (+386) 59 92 67

21, desk@v-v.si, www.v-v.si. Owned by the same people who run the excellent Žmauc bar, this fairly new hostel in a lovely old villa in the western part of the city centre is aimed at the young travelling crowd who like to relax. Simply furnished with a range of rooms and dormitories, some with and some without en suite facilities and all named after a different colour, extras include nice big balconies and free internet. Q 8 rooms (singles €28, 4-bed dorms €22per bed, 6-bed dorms €20 per bed, 8-bed dorms €17 per bed). JARLGW hh

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Where to stay

Bed & Breakfast

Couchsurfing

info@slamic.si, www.slamic.si. An excellent value bed and breakfast in the heart of the city with the added bonus of a fabulous in-house café. The rooms are spacious and modern, all with their own en suite facilities, large comfortable beds and free LAN internet access. Simple breakfasts are served in the aforementioned café, which also has a delightful terrace. Within easy walking distance of Tivoli Park and the old town. Q 11 rooms (singles €65-95, doubles €80-107, suites for 1-7 people €135-280). JHARLG hhh

Who says that beggars can’t be choosers? There are literally hundreds of sociable Slovenes currently offering their (or their parents’) spare rooms, couches and floors for free to fellow travellers. The site, which combines social networking with hostel booking, is a great option for anyone interested in hanging out with locals and saving some cash on accommodation. It can obviously be a hit-or-miss experience, but the exhaustive member profiles will give you a good idea of what to expect from your prospective hosts. Info http://www.couchsurfing.org/mapsurf.html

Slamič B-2, Kersnikova 1, tel. (+386) 1433 82 33,

Airport hotels

Sobe Jana Vopolje 29, 4207 Cerklje Na Gornjskem, tel.

(+386) 40 216 260, www.turizem-vopovlje.com/sobejana.htm. A converted family home in the village of Vopovlje, Sobe Jana is a decent option only 3km from Ljubljana’s Jože Pučnik Airport in Brnik. The four rooms and three apartments are comfortable if not overly luxurious, and are one of the better values around with the latter starting at only €12 per person. Q 7 rooms (singles €22-26, doubles €28-34, triples 35-40, apartments €36-42). PTA6L

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HOTEL PARK *** Situated in the centre of Ljubljana

Around Ljubljana

Ambient Aškerčeva 6a, 1230 Domžale, tel. (+386) 8 200 20 00, info@ambienthotel.si, www.ambienthotel.si. This recently opened hotel in the quiet suburb of Domžale is some 12km north of Ljubljana and offers great access to those wishing to explore Slovenia’s alpine regions. Surrounded by greenery the hotel has a fresh modern appearance and its tastefully designed rooms are fitted with all the modern comforts. Free transportation from the airport can be arranged, as can use of conference facilities, a large picnic area, beach volleyball court and various Thai massages for additional charges. Q 70 rooms (singles €50-80, doubles €70-130, suites €160-240). HA6LBDW hhh

WIN A »SHORT BREAK« www.hotelpark.si

Apartment rental

Tour AS Mala Ulica 8, tel. (+386) 1434 26 60, fax (+386)

1434 26 64, info@apartmaji.si, www.apartmaji.si. These are the people to talk to if you’re interested in renting an apartment during your stay in Ljubljana. From an office just a few minutes walk directly south of the main train and bus stations, they operate over 40 units of varying sizes located all around the city. On their website you can find incredibly detailed descriptions of each apartment from photos and floor plans to available amenities such as microwaves and dishwashers. They can also arrange day trips to just about everywhere in Slovenia. Q 40 apartments (€59-154).PTJAR6UL

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Hotel Park, Tabor 9, 1000 Ljubljana, Slovenia Tel: +386 1 300 2 500, Fax: +386 1 433 05 46 info@hotelpark.si • www.hotelpark.si

October - November 2009

restaurants Ljubljana’s restaurant scene continues to flourish with new and more exotic offerings opening all the time. A couple of our current favourites include the recently opened Le Coq Blanc and the always interesting Čupiterija. Be sure to sample some local cuisine when in town, and do get yourself outside at least one legendary kremšnita cream cake, which can be found in abundance throughout the city (although Bled is considered to the spiritual home of this sticky, gooey delight). Those not in town for its culinary excellence and who plan to do plenty of walking will be pleased to discover that almost every street has at least one burek and pizza place on it. Eating on the hoof in Ljubljana is a treat not to be missed. The following reviews are by no means complete, but do offer a bit of everything for everyone, from the finest white-tablecloth options available to the more amusingly backwards establishments complete with greasy cutlery and bumbling waiters.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Assuming that visitors avoid the classic traps of restaurant dining and the outrageously overpriced places aimed at the tourist market, eating in Ljubljana, although not as cheap as it was, remains a pleasantly affordable experience for all.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

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Restaurants Asian

Bangkok Street J-2, Šmartinska 152/G (BTC), tel.

(+386) 1523 31 65, fax (+386) 1523 31 66, www.bangkokstreet.si. Settle into a table with views of an artfully-lit perforated metal structure just beyond the ceiling-high windows at the back of this stylish new eatery, and you just might be able to forget that you’re staring at the façade of a parking garage from a shopping mall. While the food won’t have you sprinting to the nearest telephone to call home and sing its praises, it’s better than you might expect given the location and you’ll be hard-pressed to find better value in terms of ethnic food - the portions are huge and there’s also a relatively inexpensive allyou-can-eat buffet. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. (€4-16). PTAULGKW

Running Sushi & Wok Jurčkova 223 (Supernova), tel.

(+386) 1427 68 88. When Slovenia’s first conveyor belt sushi place opened we had mixed feelings: a second option to get our raw fish fix was certainly welcomed, but we were a bit leery that it would see enough traffic to inspire confidence in the all-important freshness department. But as far as we can tell it’s OK. Everything more or less tastes like it should, there’s a good variety of dishes meandering around on separate hot and cold belts and an all Asian staff wait attentively to swoop in and clear emptied plates and lids. Well worth the trip down to Rudnik. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. All you can eat €9.90-11.90. PAL

Shambala B-3/4, Križevniška 12, tel. (+386) 1426 30

14/(+386) 031 843 833, www.shambala.si. Great value Asian food in a quiet, side street location. Head out back to the covered garden and order any of the tremendous stir fries, though do not forego the starters: tempura made with shrimps make great nibbles. There is plenty for vegetarians on the menu (not always the case in these parts). QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€3.50-9.50). PTJAGBK

Sushimama B-3, Wolfova 12/(+386) 40 70 20 70, www.

sushimama.si. The first - and for a long time only - Japanese restaurant in Slovenia, the small and intimate Sushimama’s interesting little touches beyond the actual food include a subscription to Wallpaper magazine and the brave act of putting the sushi chef on display as he works in the restaurant. The extensive menu features every Japanese favourite from soups to noodle soups, a number of delicate rice- and noodle-based dishes to of course the sushi itself. Complimented by an extensive list of cocktails and wines, the restaurant is marking its territory as the first and finest of its kind. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€11-24)PJARGBXS

Thai Inn Pub B-2, Rimska 17. With its tuk tuk at the entrance, the jungle wallpaper all over the place, adornments and pictures, you’ll get a good taste of what visiting a real restaurant is like in Thailand. Thai Inn Pub foregoes the ultra elegant, westernised take on their food. The result is Thai food that tastes like Thai food. If you’re concerned about having food that’ll leave your mouth on fire, you need not worry. The menu clearly explains to what degree the dish will make you beg for water, from nothing to really, really hot. It’s very refreshing to see an ethnic restaurant that doesn’t dumb down its offering for Westerners, but instead gives you the real thing. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Sat 08:00 - 24:00. (mains €6). JAGK

Zlati Most Poljanska 7, tel. (+386) 41 952 178. Just opened in mid-July, Zlati Most (or Golden Bridge) is the third Chinese restaurant to stake its claim to a narrow 50m stretch of road a bit east of the central market - and far be it for us to question the wisdom of this, but let’s just say the other two don’t exactly do a roaring trade. Nevertheless we quite like this place. How can you not when the menu features dishes such as

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Drunk chicken, Ant climb tree and Flied dragon with phoenix? Throw in cheap Chinese beer and spirits, huge portions and strangely hypnotic Chinese pop music and they have our business. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. (€3.60-12.30). JNS

Balkan

Čad (Pod Rožnikom) H-2, Cesta Na Rožnik 18, tel.

(+386) 1251 34 46, www.gp-vic.si. When you ask locals to name there favourite Serbian restaurant in Ljubljana, Čad is the most frequently heard answer. Small, rustic, and surrounded by greenery, this gostilna is situated by Rožnik hill, near Tivoli Park. Specialising in spit and grilled dishes, the beefsteaks, grilled peppers and raznjici skewer all come highly recommended. Easy to combine with a trip to the zoo. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (€5-15). PTJA6ILGBX

Portal J-2, Zaloška 110, tel. (+386) 1540 01 66, www.

portal-m.si. Step into this cavernous old gostilna or stay out on the terrace and watch the river flow by at this great restaurant tucked away from the traffic. While they offer pizzas and pastas, the parking lot stays full with people here for real grilled Serbian food, and those options abound. They also have a long list of good Slovenian wines to drink alongside. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. (€7-20). PTAULEGBXS

Pri Jovotu E-3, Poljanska 99, tel. (+386) 1520 30 00,

www.prijovotu.com. It might not get any more homey than this, this ill-kempt restaurant bares a striking resemblance to grandma’s house replete with bad lawn furniture and a pet parrot sitting in the middle of the dining room. A regular stop for students and laborers, the food, a mix of steaks, pizzas and grilled Serbian meat dishes, comes fast and greasy. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€5-9). TA6ULEGBXS

October - November 2009

Restaurants

Rio-Momo A-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 31 751

Sofra B/C-1, Dunajska 145, tel. (+386) 1565 68 00.

NEW

Buffet

751/(+386) 1425 32 26, www.rio-momo.com. Situated between the central post office and Kongresni Trg on the city’s main thoroughfare, we’ve never found the exterior to be the most inviting but once you get inside it’s actually quite warm and cosy. The thick leather covers on the menus portend the ample selection of grilled meat dishes within, although vegetarians have a handful of a pastas and salads to choose from as well. On your way in don’t forget to check the table outside for flyers entitling you to a free glass of wine. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (€6-19). PJA

Sarajevo ‘84 Nazorjeva 12. Just opened in early September,

For a well-prepared taste of Bosnia without the long train ride, this restaurant offers intimate and classy surroundings and a reasonably priced menu featuring mostly Bosnian grilled, roasted, and sometimes spicy specialties. The vegetarian among you might find something in the burek offerings, and for the adventurous there are a few beef tongue delicacies. There is also a sizeable room of to one side that can be closed off for large private parties. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€4-7). PAULEGBXS

the city’s newest Bosnian restaurant occupies the subterranian premises of a recently closed jazz club and sports an interior somewhat reminiscent of a pub - walls plastered with memorabilia from the 1984 Winter Olympics, arched brick ceilings and old black and white Yugoslav tourist videos playing on a projection screen. The menu only has two main dishes, so ordering comes down to which shape you prefer your meat to take: sausages (ćevapčići) or a patty (pljeskavica), both of which come with bread and diced onions.QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. Closed Sun. (€3.90-4.80). JAS

Fresco B-2, Slovenska 51, tel. (+386) 1430 33 30.

Sax House B/C-4, Trnovski pristan 4a, tel. (+386)

1476 69 25. A vast underground filling station for budgetconscious city slickers such as construction workers, Korean businessmen and of course the obligatory sprinkling of students. Grab a tray, throw on some meat, mashed potato, rice, salad, whatever, don’t forget to pick up a soft drink, pay and eat. The food isn’t going to win any awards, but it’s more than good enough especially for the price. Find it deep inside the bowels of Maxi Market. Q Open 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-7). PJGBSW

70 23 51 90, info@agencija-smer.si, www.sax.si. The restaurant bills itself as “grill based food” and indeed the pleasant aromas of the grill permeate the air as your approach. The restaurant is a stylish and incredibly simple place, and the food is a mix of grilled meat dishes, as expected, but also quite a wide range of grilled vegetable skewers. A good choice if you’re looking to dine on the quiet side of the river. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€5.80-16.50). PTJA6UGBXSW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

A basic modern canteen geared towards the time-poor lunchtime office worker crowd, this bright orange restaurant looking not unlike the inside of a train (albeit a rather large one) provides both help-yourself and waiter service and is good value for money if nothing else. Highlights include ready-to-grab meals from the hotplates by the entrance and a slightly better than average salad bar. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. (€2-39). PAGBSW

Restaurant 2000 B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386)

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restaurants Fish

Gostilna Krpan F-2, Ob Ljubljanici 24, tel. (+386) 1521 12 20, gostilna.krpan@siol.com, www.gostilnakrpan.si. Located along the river in the quiet neighbourhood a couple kilometres east of the city centre, this nicely designed Slovenian fish restaurant has a stunning variety of fresh fish specialities on offer. The menu comprises everything from oysters and squid to scorpionfish and lobster. Naturally, there’s a good selection of wines to make the fish swim. Q Open 10:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€4-43). PTA6ULGBXS

Operna Klet B-2, Zupančičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1252 70

03. Tucked away just off the main road and down a flight of steps, those in the know who enjoy fine fish dining are apt to totter down the aforementioned stairway and feast in simple surroundings on an extensive menu including octopus salad, scampi and Dalmatian squid. The décor has a aquatic theme too, and you’ll not hear a lot of English spoken. Recommended for both its unpretentiousness and the quality of the food. Be warned though, the place can fill to bursting at lunchtime during the week. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. (€6-20). PJA6UGB

Burek Burek is the universal and ubiquitous Balkan snack that simply has to be tried when you’re in the region. From the Turkish word bur, meaning to twist, burek comes in all manner of shapes and sizes but are essentially a baked filo pastry snack with a savoury filling, usually flavoured minced beef, cheese and/or spinach, best enjoyed with the addition of lashings of plain yoghurt. Burek can be found ready to eat, cheap and piping hot in bakeries and speciality places operating out of little more than an open window, especially around the bus station. Variations on the burek theme can be found as far and wide as Israel, where they have the burekas, and even in Lithuania where they eat something not unlike a burek that they call a čeburekai. Enjoy. NEW

NEW

Ribca Adamič-Lundrovo Nabrežje 1, tel. (+386) 14 25

15 44, www.ribca.si. Somewhat hidden below Plečnik’s famous colonnaded arcade on the banks of the Ljubljanica, Ribca is the city’s best known seafood restaurant and worth stopping by as much for the architecture as the food. The various fish, squid and shrimp dishes on their no-nonsense menu are pretty much guaranteed to be fresh as it’s all sourced from the local fish market located right next door. The lunch menu is a great value at €7.50, but make sure to stop by early as it’s only open during the day. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. (€3.30-7.70). JA6BS

French

Le Coq Blanc B-3, Gornji Trg 4, tel. (+386) 30 353

848, lecoqblanc@gmail.com. Occupying a large house in the heart of Old Town, you have a choice of several intimate dining rooms all boasting cosy antique furniture or outdoor seating on both Gornji Trg and in a quiet corner of Levstikov Trg on the opposite side of the building. The food is excellent and the multi-course daily specials are a great value. We also appreciate the small touches like home-made bread, lemon slices in our water and genuinely friendly service. Although it is still fairly new, we’re amazed that this place isn’t nearly as popular as it should be. Highly recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. JAIB

Ajda C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 13, tel. (+386)

Fruit juice

Nobel Burek C-2, Miklošičeva 30, tel. (+386) 1232

930, info@juicebox.si, www.juicebox.si/index.html. An experimental juice bar that mixes up glasses upon glasses of 100% fruit juices, soya milk, milk, yogurt and nuts. That’s enough to get anyone’s mouth water. Definitely, a pleasant place for an invigorating start to the day or a mid day refreshment and you can bring your laptop along to make use of its WIFI facility. QOpen 07:00 - 20:00, Sat 8:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. GW

143 91 440. Not the best burek (or pizza, burgers, etc) in town, but its location opposite the bus and train stations and non-stop hours means it’s a decent option if you fancy a cheap bite before leaving town and don’t feel like walking the extra 50m to Konkurenca. Also has a smaller second location at Ajdovščina that does kebaps as well. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. (€1.50-4.90). PJGS 33 92. A small kiosk close to the train and bus stations churning out steaming hot burek as well as pizza for those who like to do their fine dining in the street. Excellent value, excellent burek. Q Open 24hrs. (€1-2). J6UXS NEW

Olimpija Slovenska 58. Not one of our personal favourites, but judging by the crowds milling about outside around the clock we’re in the minority. The servings are huge and always hot, with four varieties of pie to choose from: cheese, meat, apple and pizza - the latter being the overwhelming favourite among customers. Just around the corner from Bavarski Dvor. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. €2. JNXS

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Juicebox B-3, Slovenska cesta 38, tel. (+386) 51 645

Indian

Namasté B-3, Breg 8, tel. (+386) 1425 01 59, info@

restavracija-namaste.si, www.restavracija-namaste. si. Lots of greens, oranges and golds and some nice exotic touches create a relaxing atmosphere inside a super restaurant specialising primarily in dishes from Rajastan and the Punjab. Using the best spices imported directly from India, the owners stress the fact that the dishes, both meat and vegetarian options are made individually from mild to extra hot. By all accounts the food is excellent. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-21). PTJA6UGBXS

October - November 2009

restaurants Café Romeo B-3, Stari Trg 6, tel. (+386) 1426 90

11, romeo.plus@siol.net, www.caferomeo.si. Red vinyl PVC seating with some very strange lighting indeed and the pinkest walls you ever did see. A great place for good value Mexican and fusion food for all the family during lunchtime or, later on, for a buzzy little cocktail adventure with the great and the good of the city. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. (€2-8.50). PJA6UGBXSW

Cubo J-2, Šmartinska 55, tel. (+386) 1521 15 15, info@ cubo-ljubljana.com, www.cubo-ljubljana.com. Cubo’s difficult location doesn’t stop those foreigners and locals who appreciate good food and atmosphere from turning up here in droves every day. Taking the very best of the dining experience from décor to service to of course the food, they’ve come up with a truly inspiring place indeed. Opting for a minimalist approach with lots of dark woods and cool greys, the setting attracts everyone from business professionals to families who come to feast on a regularly changing menu of dishes including many inspired from Italy and the Mediterranean. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€3-60). PAULGW

Čupiterija B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 59 712 368.

Part café, part bar, part restaurant: Čupiterija, or Hijo de Puta as it is also known, is 100% original. Located on Mestni Trg a couple doors down from Town Hall, they serve lunch Monday to Saturday from noon to 16:00. In lieu of menus, daily lunch specials are scrawled (in both English and Slovene) across a giant blackboard out front, and often include several pasta, steak and salad selections along with a couple random choices like chicken curry or artichoke risotto. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. (€6-10). TJAUGBK

Julija B-3, Stari Trg 9, tel. (+386) 1425 64 63. A tasteful

International

As B-3, Čopova 5/a, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386) 1425

88 22, gostilna.as@siol.net, www.gostilnaas.si. Exquisite presentation and service mark the legendary As out as one of the most expensive dining experiences in the city. Brimming with antiques and well-behaved waiters, sit amidst opulent detritus and feast from a menu including more fancy dishes than you could eat in a year including baked potatoes with caviar, lamb cutlet with honey and truffles plus a battalion of fabulous desserts. And if that’s not enough, the wine list includes everything one could possibly need to accompany the rich and varied food. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-31). PJAGB

Atrium G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700,

fax (+386) 147 02 708, info@hotel.mons.si, www.hotel. mons.si. The menu at the flagship restaurant of the Mons Hotel and Congress Centre is a sublime mix of the traditional and the contemporary. Classic dishes are brought to life with modern twists, such as the saddle of lamb served with pears and polenta. The wine list is one of the city’s best, and the forest setting perfect for escaping the city centre heat. An absolute gem. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. €16. PTHULGKW

Bachus Center B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1241 82 48, info@bachus-center.com, www.bachus-center. com. Subterranean dining opposite the Philharmonia in the heart of the city, eat a wide range of international dishes under vaulted ceilings. As well as changing specials, the menu includes a fixed list of treats including beef with truffles, octopus and a few vegetarian options. Q Mon 08:00-23:00, Tue-Sat 08:00-06:00, Holidays 18:00-06:00, Sun Closed (€7-20). PJAEGBSW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Baroque-look interior with lots of gilded mirrors, distressed white furniture and some extraordinary blue and white tiles on the wall at the back, the fine international menu is packed with interesting food including octopus, pasta in many shapes and sizes and an impressive dessert menu. The wine list is also worth a mention, boasting a range of good value and painfully expensive bottles from home and abroad. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. (€3-19). PTJA6UGBXSW

Ljubljanski Dvor B-3, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1251

65 55. Downstairs for vast pizzas served by a mixture of indifferent and pleasant waiters to a mixed clientele sat both inside and out. Upstairs for more of the same, only with the addition of grilled meats and other classic Slovenian dishes. Now an institution, the terraces get thoroughly clogged with business professionals and tourists alike during the summer. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€5-10). PTJA6UGBSW

Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe B-3, Stari Trg 9, tel. (+386) 1425 01 18, info@lunchcafe.net, www.lunchcafe.net. Acres of stripped pine and one of the best kitchen smells in the city, lunchtime feasts include some truly memorable home-made soups, large and tasty salads and a few restrained yet delicious pasta dishes. Be warned though, the place is immensely popular, and waiting for a table or simply having to go somewhere else is a common occurrence. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (€3-19). PJA6UGBXSW

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Restaurants

Exquisite culinary and wine pleasures for all palates of the world. Open: Monday-Friday: 12.00 - 18.00, 19.00 - 23.00 Saturday: 12.00 - 16.00 Maxim Restaurant, Trg republike 1, Ljubljana, Slovenia Phone: +386 1 47 66 982, www.klubmaxi.si ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2009

Restaurants Manna B-4, Eipprova 1a, tel. (+386) 1283 52 94,

info@kulinarika-manna.com, www.kulinarika-manna. com. This high-class and expensive restaurant bills itself as heavenly food here on earth, and as soon as you enter the interior positively glitters. The menu features some of the most rarefied ingredients Slovenia has ever seen such as Japanese wagyu beef as well as a full selection of both Slovenian wines and some of the best wines and spirits from around the world. Every detail is just so in this beautiful space and it was thus no surprise when the restaurant recently had the distinction of being visited for lunch by American First Lady Laura Bush., you’ll see the picture commemorating the event as you enter the door. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€10-30). PTJA6UGBS

Maxim B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1476 69 80, info@maxi.si, www.maxi.si. In the heart of the city centre this modern, business-orientated restaurant provides a fine menu of dishes including duck breast with mashed potatoes, soups, seafood, and a galaxy of fabulous puddings. There’s a huge wine list too, and a nice terraced area complete with water features for quality outdoor summer dining. Popular with professional locals and foreigners alike. QOpen 12:00 - 18:00; 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€40 and more). PJA6LEGBS

Most C-3, Petkovškovo nabrežje 21, tel. (+386) 1232

81 83, most@t-2.net, www.restavracija-most.si. As soon as you arrive to this restaurant you’ll notice a framed food quality award next to the door. That gives a hint of what this restaurant has in store for you. It’s fairly obvious that a lot of thought went into the décor of this place. The pictures had wooden frames that had deliberately not been polished. Underneath them there was beautiful handwriting on the walls. It all gave the place a very rustic and cosy ambiance. Even the music was soothing. Very romantic. The cutlery hanging from the lamps marred the effect a bit, but that’s really nitpicking. The best part was, of course, the food. Simply exquisite and very well decorated. It’s great. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PJAGK

Plato B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80, plato@

siol.net, www.plato.si. Located right in the centre of town next to one of Ljubljana’s most recognisable modern buildings - a twisting white office tower that takes some interesting architectural liberties - this newer restaurant is something of an oasis above the bustling square below. The lunch-time only menu is international with a focus on light and healthy Mediterranean-inspired dishes, and can change daily depending on what is in season or just especially fresh that day at local markets. If you’re not too keen on the day’s set menus you can also order à la carte, although if you haven’t had a chance to brush up on your Slovene you may need one of the attentive waiters to translate. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€4.5 - 22). PTJAGBXSW

Polna Skleda G-2, Pot Za Brdom, tel. (+386) 1470 27

00, www.hotel.mons.si. The Polna Skleda restaurant at the Mons hotel and congress centre is a buffet-style place (unique, we think, in Ljubljana) whereby you can take your pick from a vast variety of goodies displayed on an impresive counter in the centre of the dining room. The various offerings and dishes of the day change regularly and give you the opportunity to try out differnet cuisines. For something a bit different or for a casual lunch or dinner it can’t be too highly recommended. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. €4,5 - €18. PTHAUGBK

Pri Vitezu B-3/4, Breg 20, tel. (+386) 1426 60 58,

www.privitezu.si. Exquisite restaurant, widely recognized as one of the city’s best. Though expensive (and we mean expen-

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

sive, you can spend a fortune here) it still offers great value for money to people for whom high class food is paramount. We recommend everything on the menu, as well as the daily lunch menu which your waiter will recite to you. We especially like the Caesar Salad: slightly different to what you might be used to and all the better for it. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€8-50). TJA6UGBXS NEW

Rožna Hiša Rožna Dolina II/3, tel. (+386) 12 56 47

95, gostilna.roznahisa@gmail.com. We’ve always had the impression that this is one of the places Slovene university professors like to take visiting academics for a relaxed meal their first day in town. The menu has a bit of everything, the prices are reasonable and whole place has a warm congenial atmosphere that’s conducive to lingering over a post-meal espresso or bottle of wine - especially when sitting outside on a warm night. Of course, the fact that it’s located in Rožna Dolina, a quiet university neighbourhood, might have something to do with as well. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€5-22). PALBS NEW

Separé Koprska 92, tel. (+386) 12 44 16 34, www.

separe.si. Conveniently located near the motorway in Mestni Log - one of Ljubljana’s quickly expanding commercial districts - Separé is a great place for a quick business lunch or leisurely post-meeting dinner. Its Mediterranean-inspired menu is served by attentive professional waiters, who will gladly rattle off the day’s specials in English or recommend something from the overwhelming wine list. The stylish modern interior is divided into several separate spaces for a more intimate dining experience, and there’s also a large covered terrace out front. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-19). PAB

Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 00, fax

(+386) 1251 71 64, sales@hotelslon.com, w w w. hotelslon.com. Officially one of the best restaurants in the city (they have an award to prove it), the eatery at the Best Western Slon is well worth your time. The central location, the delightfully simple - mainly Mediterranean - menu and the outstanding service all help to make it special. Try and bag one of the tables overlooking the lounge: among the most sought-after in the city. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:30 - 24:00. PTJHAULGKW

Stara Mačka B-3, Krojaška 8, tel. (+386) 1251 17

49, www.staramacka.si. Like all the restaurants and cafes along the Ljubljanica the focus here is on the outside experience and this restaurant/bar aims to create a sort of Miami vibe in their area along the river; with Latin music blaring on the stereo, a drink list featuring tropical cocktails and cigars, and a staff of attractive waiters. The food here is pricey steakhouse. You can also enjoy light meals, like various salads or sea food and then top them with tasty desserts. They are the only restaurant where serve food till 01:00. From a crisp cocktail before dinner to a full course meal without ever having to leave the comfort of the house. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€5-20). TJA6UEGBXW

Union Garden B-2, Miklošičeva 1, Grand Hotel Union,

tel. (+386) 1308 12 95, www.gh-union.si. Every year from June onwards, the Union Garden - in the shade of century-old chestnut trees - serves up an al fresco offering of international, Mediteranean and traditional Slovene cuisine for lunch or dinner. If you’ve eaten elsewhere, you can simply indulge yourself with a dessert, made by the in-house confectioners. QOpen 09:00 - 23:30. (€14-25). PTJA6UGBXS

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Restaurants

NEW

Veseli Merjasec B-3, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 14 25 20 29, info@veselimerjasec.si, www.veselimerjasec.si. Veseli Merjasec (or the Happy Boar) seems like the kind of place where a reservation would be a must in most major cities: arched ceilings, subtle lighting, minimalist décor and a soundtrack consisting of jazzy house and world music all contribute to a certain international ambiance. Last time we visited the menus were unfortunately still Slovene-only, so you’ll definitely want to have your waiter translate some of the exotic offerings - including (presumably not so happy) wild boar along with various other game meat. Three course lunch menus start at €9. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€7-22). PJA NEW

Wild West Saloon Tržaška 69, tel. (+386) 12 56 72 79/(+386) 70 839 422, www.wild-west-saloon.com/. Before even glancing at the menu, you have to give them credit for the authentic-looking façade and an interior full of native American paraphernalia, toilets that read ‘hombres’ and ‘conchitas’ and a (hopefully) fake buffalo head above the bar. The food is Slovene-style Tex-Mex along with steaks, burgers and rather surprisingly a whole page of salads. Sticking with the wild west theme, all the dishes are served in gut-busting American sized portions that, if you manage to finish, will leave you in a need of a siesta. The lunch specials are a great deal at less than €6. QOpen 07:30 - 22:30, Sat 10:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€5-21). A6LBS

Zlata Ribica Cankarjevo Nabrežje 5-7, tel. (+386)

1241 26 80, zlata.ribica@ gpl.si, www.zlataribica.si. Located at the foot of Cobblers’ Bridge in one of Old Ljubljana’s older buildings, Zlata Ribica (or the Golden Fish) has a long tradition of serving excellent traditional Slovene and interna-

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tional cuisine in a setting that is hard to beat. For some reason they do seem a bit touchy about their bona fides though, on a recent visit when asked if they had pizza the waiter irritatedly replied that it is a restaurant not a pizzeria - which we assumed meant no. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. (€6-22). PJAB

Italian

Allegria B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1426 74 02,

info@allegria.si, www.allegria.si. A veritable corner of Tuscany in Slovenia, Allegria promises to bring the scent of the Tuscan hills and the atmosphere of the stark landscapes across the Alps - and admirably succeeds. With a menu longer than Alitalia’s creditor list, there’s plenty to choose from, be it delicate ravioli and lasagne dishes, or fragrantly grilled meat or fish. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€2.30-20.20). PAGB

Azur H-2, Cesta Na Brdo 33, tel. (+386) 1423 24 23,

info@pizzeria-azur.si, www.pizzeria-azur.si. A bright orange beacon in the middle of nondescript suburbs, walk right in and past the freaky statue (which appears to be a homeless person begging for change) and into this wide open and friendly pizza and risotteria. The menu is full of various types of pizza and while they give their risottos top billling, they actually have more pasta offerings. It is clear from the familiar air that this place is full of regular repeat customers and it is certainly family friendly and even tourist-friendly despite its distance from the center. If you’re headed back from the zoo, this could be a good lunch or dinner stop for you. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€4.9012.90). PTAUGB

October - November 2009

Restaurants

Cankarjevo Nabrežje is always buzzing

Kavalino C-3, Trubarjeva 52, tel. (+386) 1232 09

90, www.kavalino.si. Hidden in a sloping cobblestone alleyway between Trubarjeva and the river, this quaint Italian restaurant specializes in Tuscan food. The first thing you see upon entering is a tasteful dining area with an indoor tree in the corner that rises up to a skylight. Further back there’s a smaller dining area under a vaulted brick ceiling, and upstairs is a café. The service might not be the friendliest, but at least it’s efficient, and the varied and tasty lunch specials are downright cheap. Definitely worth finding. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6-18). PTJA6GBXSW

La Storia C-1, Linhartova 3, tel. (+386) 1234 45 92,

info@lastoria.si, www.lastoria.si. This large and lovely trattoria sits inside a bustling but decaying old shopping center not far from the center, and caters to a daily horde of office workers and students with its authentic pizza and pasta offerings. While other restaurants serve pasta and Italian dishes as an afterthought, true Italian food is the focus here, and the ample staff will make sure you get yours fast and hot. QOpen 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€5-10). PTJA6GB

Pasta Nona B-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. (+386) 1438 24

24. Scrubbed pine tables and an air of casual sophistication await those looking for one of the finest lunch spots in town. Drop by this magnificent little eatery for big plates of steaming pasta, wonderful sauces, some great salads and, best of all, a dustbin-sized help-yourself barrel of couscous. Tucked up away from the action in the heart of the city-centre business district, this place fills up fast. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€5-10). PTJAGSW

Mexican

Cantina Mexicana B-3, Wolfova 4, Knafljev prehod,

tel. (+386) 1426 93 25, kantina.meksikana@gmail.com, www.cantina-mexicana-restaurantes.si. Fun on two floors in one of the city’s most popular courtyards, Cantina Mexicana is positively aglow with bright colours, strange sculptures, grass growing on the ceiling and some nice lighting tricks behind the long ground-floor bar. The food is classic Tex-Mex

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

as you’d expect, and appears to be fairly popular. If nothing else, this is one of the quirkiest and silliest places in the city centre and even if you’re not hungry is well worth a visit for a drink or two. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. (€4,90-16,90). PTJA6GBSW

Imperio Mexicano J-2, Šmartinska 152/G, tel. (+386) 1523 31 65, fax (+386) 1523 31 66, info@imperio.info, www.imperio.si. Decent and good value if not award winning Tex-Mex food, where our only gripe would be that the cheddar used on the nachos was not the best. Great cocktails, an outsdnaing house white, and great big portions of all your Tex-Mex favourites: the chicken tortillas were particularly good. For big groups shopping in City Park, you can’t do much better. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. PTAULGSW

Joe Peña’s B-2, Cankarjeva 6, tel. (+386) 1421 58 00,

bienvenido@joepenas.si, www.joepenas.si. A combined cantina and cocktail bar with a fine garden to boot, they’ve got it just right, from the general scruffiness of the place through to the smell of limes and cumin that hits you as you open the door. The food’s pretty good, being the standard Mexican dishes as found throughout the world including fajitas, enchiladas et al, plus there’s a decent menu of vegetarian options to keep everyone happy. One of the best atmospheres in the city that’s guaranteed to please all but the fussiest of patrons. Highly recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (€3-14).PTJA6GBSW

Pizza

Foculus B-3, Gregorčičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1421 92 95,

foculus@siol.net, www.foculus.com. Magnificently decorated once you’re through the slightly out of place automatic doors, with autumn leaves painted on the vaulted ceilings and red, yellow and orange plates built into the roof of the large wood-fired pizza oven. The large and busy Foculus specialises in 66 varieties of pizza, including 20 for vegetarians and eight with seafood. The salads are also particularly good. The service can be a little slow at times, but the wait is generally more than worth it. Recommended. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. (€5.70-8.40). PTJAUGBS

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Restaurants Parma B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1426 82 22,

Gostilna Lovec A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad

Piazza H-2, Parmova 51, tel. (+386) 1436 31 81.

Mencigar Nobile D-3, Zarnikova 3, tel. (+386) 1439

www.picerija.net/parma.htm. A quirky little one, this. As well as a couple of ordinary tables, most dining here is done at the large bar from where the food is cooked and served. Find an empty stool, make your order and away you go. And while you’re waiting for your pizza to arrive, take a look at the large photographs on the wall of the construction of the area you’re eating in. Find it hidden away down the stairs and on the right at the southern end of Maxi Market. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€4-6). TJA6ULGBXSW Authentic pizza in an Italian village square setting, complete with an odd bicycle with a salad bar attached for theft prevention. Not the cheapest pies in town, but a pizza feeds two hungry souls. Piazza can get very busy, the terrace especially, but you can wait at the bar to be seated if you haven’t booked in advance. If you want to pay by card, apply patience. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (€5-10). PTJA6ULGBXS

Pizzeria Osmica Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 1426 58 72.

Located on the narrow pedestrian street that runs parallel to Čopova, Osmica is essentially the pizza and salad annex of the longer-running Allegria in the courtyard around the corner. An impressive-looking menu of twenty salads and perhaps twice as many pizzas are on offer in a comfortable faux-rustic setting - think lots of wood and stone with an open kitchen. Every time we’re here the service seems to range between leisurely paced to infuriatingly slow, but as far as the food is concerned we’ve yet to be disappointed. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. (€4.70-7.80). JABS

Slovenian In a way, there’s no such thing as Slovenian - with sheep and cows on it’s mountain pastures giving meat and milk products, the Mediterranean fresh providing seafood, and with influences from the Balkans, Austria and Italy, you might as well call it world cuisine. One thing that is unique is the gostilna, the traditional, rustic, family-owned Slovenian inn providing affordable and honest homemade food that would make your granny grin.

Figovec B-2, Gosposvetska 1, tel. (+386) 1426 44

10, gostilna.figovec@siol.net, www.figovec.si. White tablecloths, heaps of quality Slovenian wine and a pleasing mix of bits and bobs on the walls including old farming implements, joints of meat and a television blaring out MTV cut this one out from the humdrum mainstream gostilna scene. Popular with both locals and foreigners alike, this really rather pleasing place dishes up above-par nosh such as the ghoulish-sounding horseflesh prosciutto and horseflesh beefsteak, alongside such amusing concoctions as ‘yang pig baked in oven’ and mushroom turkey. Joking aside, what this place loses in translation it more than makes up for in the kitchen. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 16:00. (€7-28). PTJA6UGBXSW

1, tel. (+386) 1426 91 36. One of the more interesting and individual gostilnas in town, Lovec provides a labyrinth of rooms with plenty of brick archways, some really fine old green ceramic stoves, a broken piano on the wall, scores of students of course, and something you don’t see in a gostilna every day - a salad bar. The food’s as good as you’ll get anywhere like this, there are a few vegetarian options, and, for that ultimate gostilna experience with an interesting twist, this one wins hands down. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. (€3-13). JAGBS

70 40, www.mencigar-nobile.com. Across the road from St Joseph’s Church, Mencigor Nobile is a wonderfully unpretentious restaurant specialising in traditional food from the Prekmurje region of northeast Slovenia. The three dining areas, known as the Glažar, Janc and Goričko rooms are decorated with classic folk motifs and cooking utensils and are, as are the clientele that frequent them, as a diverse as it gets. A popular place for coffee and a break with teenagers and workers during the day, the evenings see a slightly classier crowd descending for the excellent, good value food and occasional folk-related nights of entertainment. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€6-21). PTAGB

Pri Vodniku H-2, Vodnikova 65a, tel. (+386) 1505

59 07, www.privodniku.si. Set in the building where the poet Vodnik was born in 1758, now this pleasant Slovenian restaurant serves a la carte meals as well as several set menus. Each of the menus offers a different overview of local specialities. For something special, take the time to try the 8-course slow food menu accompanied by good wine. For a really relaxed visit, you can stay on after dessert and sleep in one of the guestrooms. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 21:00. (€10-20). PTA6ULGBXSW

Stari Tišler C-2, Kolodvorska 8, tel. (+386) 1430 33 70,

www.stari-tisler.com. Only a short walk from the main train station - in the direction of the moustachioed General Meister atop his trusty steed - Old Tišler’s has been serving up traditional Slovene cuisine for over a century. They specialise in hearty soups, stews and goulashes, which means it’s a good place to try bograč, a Slovene favourite that is essentially a bowl of meat masquerading as stew. Daily lunch specials are a good value starting at €5, and there are a half dozen rooms available upstairs. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. (€5-20). PTJA6UGBXS

Gostilna Kovač J-1, Pot k Savi 9, tel. (+386) 1537 12 44, info@kovac-co.si, www.kovac-co.si. Well out of town near the Tomačevo roundabout, Gostilna Kovač has been serving up Slovenian cuisine with traditional kindness since 1840. There’s plenty of emphasis on meat and fish. Inside, antiques and wooden beams create a rustic atmosphere, while there’s a lovely porch and terrace for al fresco dining. Very popular with wheeling and dealing business types. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€10-100). PAUBW

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Pasta: A relief from meat-heavy Slovene cuisine

October - November 2009

Restaurants

Špajza B-3, Gornji Trg 28, tel. (+386) 1425 30 94. An

exceedingly classy affair with chunky, creaking wooden floors, a number of different rustic-feel rooms to eat in, an extensive menu of Slovenian and international dishes, an excellent salad bar and an antique silver cash register in the entrance. Popular with many people including business professionals, tourists and romantic couples, prices are high but still relatively affordable if you don’t come here every day. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (€7.50-10). JAGBS

Valvasor B-3, Stari Trg 7, tel. (+386) 1425 04 55, info@

valvasor.net, www.valvasor.net. If you are looking for fine dining in the heart of the city, Valvasor may be just the place for you. ‘Elegant’ and ‘tasteful’ are adjectives that could be used to describe both the décor and the menu. Seafood features heavily in both the appetizers and mains sections though for the completely carnivorous there is also a good range of mouth-watering red meat options. If you find yourself spoilt and confused by choice you could take advantage of the degustation menu and try a little of a lot. With an extensive wine list selected from all over Slovenia, Valvasor is open for lunch and dinner though it’s definitely best to book for the latter. QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. Closed Sun. (€16-24).PTJAGBXS

Vodnikov Hram C-3, Vodnikov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1234

52 60, vodnikov.hram@gmail.com, www.vodnikov-hram. si. Named after Valentin Vodnik, who’s widely regarded as one of the first Slovene poets and journalists and also lends his name to the adjacent square, it’s one of the better known places to sample traditional Slovenian cuisine in Ljubljana. Dining under its vaulted brick ceilings is a recommended experience, as is grabbing a coffee or ice cream on the terrace while you’re waiting for the nearby funicular railway to ferry you up to the castle. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€5-50). PTA6ULGSW

Vegetarian NEW

Ajdovo Zrno Trubarjeva 7, www.satwa.si/. This popular

vegetarian café is tucked away in a cute little courtyard just off Trubarjeva, a busy pedestrian street. Colourful is the first word that springs to mind when you enter, with bright walls and table cloths decorating the dining room and outdoor terrace. Food-wise there are loads of choices: everything from soups, sandwiches, tortillas and even lasagne to fresh fruits and juices, cakes, milkshakes and smoothies. It’s all served ‘pick and mix’ style from a canteen with every kind of vegetable you can imagine - and probably even some you can’t. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. (€2-6). PJABS

Vegedrom H-2, Vodnikova 35, tel. (+386) 1513 26 42,

info@vegedrom.com, www.vegedrom.com. A vegetarian can certainly stuff themselves on vegetable pizzas and side salads in the center of town, but if it is real healthy vegetarian meals you are after then head to the outskirts and try Vegedrom. The restaurant creates vegetarian, organic and vegan meals inspired by Slovenian and Indian cuisine, with daily specials and special lunch sets that include soup, salad, and a sweet. A worthwhile trek for something healthy and delicious. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Sun. (€4-10). TA6ULGBXS

Quick Eats

Delikatesa Ljubljanski Dvor B-3, Kongresni Trg 11, tel.

(+386) 1426 93 27. The acclaimed Ljubljana restaurant’s fast food outlet offers such tantalising takeaway options as good value slices of hot gooey pizza, meat, salad, lasagne and cold drinks. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. (€2-25).PTJAGBS

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Dunajska Pekarna Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 13. This

bakery is nothing to write home about but it’s directly opposite the main train and bus stations and open around the clock, meaning that perhaps you can write home from it if you have to wait for a train at some ungodly hour and also fancy a snack. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.

Falafel C-2, Trubarjeva 40/(+386) 041 64 01 66, www.

alja-shaar.com/falafel.htm. A tiny little place churning out delicious falafel-based delicacies plus the usual array of pizzas and burgers. An excellent choice for vegetarians on the move, expect long queues during the busy lunchtime period. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (€1-7). JA6UGS NEW

Greens Dalmatinova 2, tel. (+386) 31 838 520. This

small fast food stall below the Ajdovščina office building seems to change tenants more often than Italian parliament, but for the sake of variety we hope the current proprietors manage to stick around for a while. Their freshly made wraps and salads are about the only healthy alternative to the countless burger, kebap and pizza joints that proliferate around the city. They also do tasty fruit and yoghurt smoothies. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. (€2.50-4). J6NBS

Hot Horse A-1, Tivoli Park kiosk, tel. (+386) 1521

14 27, master@hot-horse.si, www.hot-horse.si. Eating horses may horrify most British visitors, but that’s only because they’ve watched too much Mr Ed and have never tried it. It’s low in fat, rich in proteins and easy to digest - so swap your steed for a car and get grilling. Hot Horse serves healthy horseburgers from a small kiosk in Tivoli Park and just outside BTC. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00, Mon 10:00 - 06:00. (€1.50-5.50). J6UBXS

Konkurenca C-1/2, Trg Osvobodilne Fronte 14, tel.

(+386) 1430 52 26. Kebabs, burgers and burek to eat in or take away around the clock just southwest of the train and bus stations. Look for the blinding yellow and green façade for some of the cheapest eats in town. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Open 24hrs. (€1-5). J

McDonald’s B-2/3, Čopova 14, tel. (+386) 1426 32

26, Info@si.mcd.com, www.mcdonalds.si. It’s McHere if you McNeed it. Also inside the train station (open 07:0023:00), in BTC (open 08:00 - 24:00, Sunday 09:00 - 24:00) with a drive-thru nearby open 24 hours and in several other locations in Ljubljana. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (€1-5). PTJNGBSW

Paninoteka B-3, Jurčičev Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1425 00 55, www.paninoteka.si. The first sandwich bar in Ljubljana and by everyone’s account still the best. Using the best ingredients stuffed inside large, delicious pieces of Italian bread, eat in or take out, hot or cold. One of the city’s latest institutions and a highly recommended one it is too. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€1-7). J6UEGBXSW

Žak Dalmatinova 2. Located under the hulking Ajdovščina

building just off a busy crossroads, this French style bakery whips up tasty snacks that, judging by the constant lines, tempt a fair number of workers from the surrounding offices to extend their smoke breaks. Their freshly-prepared sandwiches cost a little more than the pre-packaged brands found in all the supermarkets but are well worth the premium. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. (€13.50). JS

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CafÉs Ljubljana’s café culture has always been one of our favourite things about the city. When the weather’s nice the entire old town is abuzz with activity at the pavement cafés that line nearly every street. During the colder months things move indoors, but thanks to the national smoking ban you’re still apt to find a fair amount of patrons outside huddled under heat lamps and blankets puffing away on coffee’s significant other. The most popular places can be found along the Ljubljanica on Cankarjevo Nabrežje and Petkovškovo Nabrežje on the opposite bank, but with so many options to choose from just wandering around until you find a place you fancy is never a bad option.

Symbol key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

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Bachus Lounge B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386)

1241 82 42, info@bachus-center.com, www.bachuscenter.com. Buzzing pretty much any time of the day, Bachus’ ground-floor lounge area features good-looking clients, good-tasting coffee, a year-round garden for sipping cocktails under the stars, and a whole host of other fancy attractions. A popular Ljubljana A-list classic, handy for both the attached international restaurant or as a pre-club venue for its hugely popular nightlife venue. Q Mon 08:00-23:00, Tue-Sat 08:00-06:00, Holidays 18:00-06:00, Sun Closed (€3.30-42). PAEG

Cacao C-2, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 3, tel. (+386) 1430

17 71. If you like ice-cream, and who doesn’t, then this is your place. Along with the usual coffee, tea, wine and beer, Cacao serves up scoops of ice-cream which you can enjoy indoors or out on the terrace. Fruit and ice-cream is around €5 a serving and if you want a bit of a kick with your cream, go for one of the alcohol-spiked varieties such as Rio (Baccardi and blue curacao) or Brasil (tequila, minus the worm). There are also plenty of child-friendly shakes and servings available but if you are planning on going to Rio you might want to bring the babysitter. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PT� JA6UGBSW

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October - November 2009

cafÉs

Café Antico B-3, Stari Trg 17, tel. (+386) 41 76 40 80. A

Parisian feel exudes from every pore of Café Antico. Popular with middle-aged couples out for a balloon or two of quality wine as well as a more younger set of chic young urbanites, the happy proprietor serves up the world’s top 40 cocktails alongside the aforementioned wine and a few well chosen bottles of cold beer, plus there are a few snacks on hand to keep the hunger away including cheese sandwiches and of course croissants. Check out the interesting room for two people. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 23:00. TJGBSW

Café Plato B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1230 84 80,

plato@siol.net, www.plato.si. A stylish and still relatively new café offering a wide selection of great ice creams, cakes and tiny tarts in a unique glass-walled space right in the centre of town, its outdoor seating area is a fine place for some people watching on a sunny afternoon. There’s also a restaurant upstairs, so if you’re feeling like a bit more than a snack you may want to inquire about what’s on offer that day. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€2-3). PTJA6GBXSW

Cha (Čajna Hiša) B-3, Stari Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1252 70

10, www.cha.si. When it’s all just to much, it’s tempting to just plonk down and have a cuppa. That’s exactly what Cha offers - a fine place to relax and watch the world hurry by, while you much around with teabags. There’s a choice of black, green, herbal and falvoured teas, with exotic tastes well catered to. The classy porcelain crockery adds to the special feel of the place. An on-site shop sells the dry version too. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:30. Closed Sun. TJAGBS

Čolnarna A-2, Tivoli Park (near the Ribnik, lake), tel.

(+386) 1251 11 60, fortuna.fortuna@siol.net, www. colnarna.com. Once upon a time this old café sold the best homemade cakes and sweets in town in the most beautiful

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

setting around, but it is now 120 years in, and we all know age can make it hard to keep up. These days while the surroundings are still quite lovely, the cakes are not bad and ice creams are delivered in a truck. Nonetheless, it merits a stop for a cake, a coffee, and a peaceful moment in the park. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. TJ6UGBXS

Grajska Kavarna C-3, Ljubljanski grad (Ljubljana Cas-

tle), tel. (+386) 1439 41 40, www.grajska-kavarna.si. Swanky, cool and chic in equal measures, Ljubljana Castle’s very own café is housed inside a dismal-looking 1980s concrete monstrosity well overdue for a facelift. Retaining much of its original communist-era look, the interior is fun if you’re in the area, and is a good place to stock up on fruit juice, wine, coffee, beer, sandwiches and a Harry Potter ice cream. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. PTJA6GBSW

Kavarna Tromostovje B-3, Prešernov Trg 1, tel. (+386)

1430 12 18, www.kavarna-tromostovje.si. Here near Plečnik’s famed Tromostovje (Three Bridges), alongside the river, you can get a real feeling of the pulse of the city.This open-air café is blessed with perhaps the best location in the city and as such it seems to always be full with locals and tourists sitting with a coffee, enjoying great ice cream, soaking up local color, and sometimes even watching a daytime concert on the square. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. TJ6UENBXSW

Le Petit Café B-3, Trg Francoske Revolucije 4, tel.

(+386) 1251 25 75. On a leafy yet bustling square, tables of bubbly locals and clued-up visitors drink coffee, tea and look utterly Parisian without even trying. Every other cafe in Ljubljana wants to be this place, and it is easy to see why. What’s more, it is not even expensive: big omelets and tasty toasted sandwiches all come in at around €3.50. QOpen 07:30 - 24:00. PTJA6UGBS

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CAFÉS Maček B-3, Krojaška 5, tel. (+386) 1425 37 91, www.

macek-lj.si. Reassuringly scruffy after so many good-looking places in the area, gurgle down some tea, coffee or something a little stronger in the safe confines of four bright orange walls decorated with some nice black and white photographic portraits of both people and Ljubljana itself. Extremely popular with families toting young children during the weekends. QOpen 09:00 - 00:30. TJA6GBSW

Metropol B-2, Kersnikova 6/(+386) 040 63 99 01. A

distinctly industrial feel with lots of absurd touches such as a ridiculous flashing robot and a glass-walled smoking room for two, if you’ve got the strength to throw a sleeping student on the floor, prepare yourself for a full-on youthful experience. A bit out of the way along the same street as Slamič B&B, Metropol is only really recommended for those who enjoy being in the company of boys and girls who are technically still at school. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat, Sun. PJAGBSW

Pri Semaforju B-3, Slovenska 5, tel. (+386) 40 893

664. Translating as ‘by the traffic lights’, be welcomed in several different languages on the fascias on entry, then choose to sit either upstairs or downstairs depending on what takes your fancy. Lively, upbeat music provides a soundtrack for all manner of pierced teenagers to sit around and plan revolutions over a limited selection of coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, spirits or beer. Scruffy and fun indeed. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TJ6UGBXSW

Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku B-3, Stari Trg 30, tel. (+386)

1425 07 12. Teddy bears, Cuban flags, accordions, cakes, icecream and lots of friendly people of all ages, some of them wearing funny hats. One long thin room and a larger space out the back for coffee and sweet treats hold a fascinating array of colourful characters. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. (€1-5). TJ6GBXS

STA Travel Cafe B-2, Ajdovščina 1, tel. (+386) 1 439

16 90, fax (+386) 1 439 16 95, info@staljubljana.com. There are a lot of pluses to this place despite the clinical sounding name. Set on a big terrace with a good view and lots of tables it offers free Internet for patrons. When all that virtual surfing results in hunger pangs you can sate them with your choice from a wide range of sandwiches. The TV is set to the travel channel so you can look at where you’ve been, where you’re going or where you want to head off to next. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PJ6UGBXW

Top: Eat & Party A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 177

775, info@klubtop.si, www.klubtop.si. While this aptly named establishment makes no attempt to belie the fact that it’s a club first and foremost, don’t let that dissuade you from taking the glass elevator up to the roof during daylight hours. Even as an afterthought the café still has the best views in the city. Ljubljana’s almost too picturesque castle is perched on the leafy hilltop only a few hundred metres away, and more steeples than you can (or at least would want to) count dot the sky above the old town. A perfect place to linger on a sunny afternoon. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 05:00. Closed Sun. PJAEGBKW

Zvezda B-2, Wolfova 14 & Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1421 90 90, kavarna.zvezda@siol.net. A bustling café frequented by a battalion of clients from students to pearlladen old ladies. Zvezda’s décor leans in the direction of your classic Buddha lounge, with a scattering of Oriental statues and some fine brown velvet wallpaper. Not the cheapest café in town, your money is at least well spent. The coffee is strong enough to wake the dead, and the cakes are some of the best and stickiest in town. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Slovenska 34 open: 08:00-22:00, Sun 10:0020:00. (€2,80-3). PTJAUGBSW

Zvezda - House of Pastries features its own boutique workshop offering: • cakes, pies, croissants • ice cream • warm and cold beverages • cookies and bite sized chocolate treats • sandwiches • a gi� shop programme with different types of teas and candies 100% fruit ice cream and rice milk ice cream (cholesterol free, lactose-free, saccharose-free, gluten-free and contains no animal products). Drinks and desserts that do not contain any products of animal origin. You can visit Zvezda at three different locations in Ljubljana: in city centre on Wolfova 14 and Slovenska cesta 34 (Hotel Slon) or in BTC Shopping centre, Hala 12, Šmartinska 152.

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October - November 2009

niGhtlife Ljubljana likes to party hard, and party late. The place goes positively Mediterranean during the summer, with cafés, bars and restaurants staying open well into the early hours as locals and visitors alike simply forget to go home. All of the city’s squares bustle into the early hours too, with the city’s main square, Prešernov Trg, often still packed with revelers until 03:00. Indeed, Prešernov Trg is something of a focal point for Ljubljana nightlife, with most of the city’s best bars, clubs and cafés nearby.

Casablanca B-3, Mestni Trg 17, tel. (+386) 1 426 30

Personal current favourites include tiny little Conestoga for live music, Čupiterija for light eats and cocktails, and Ultra for shaking our thang. There are tons of other places of course, so browse our thorough Ljubljana nightlife listings at your leisure.

Cezar Bar B-2, Slovenska 56, tel. (+386) 1231 08 37,

Also note that this is by and large a very easy going city, and is no such thing as a no-go zone. Do not worry about walking home on your own late at night.

Symbol key

info@cezar.si. Its expansive outdoor seating area dominates Bavarski Dvor, the city’s de facto financial centre. With the Ljubljana Stock Exchange right next door and various banks, brokerage firms and insurance companies occupying the surrounding office buildings, a steady stream of white collar types flock here throughout the day in order to tend to their seemingly insatiable appetite for caffeine and nicotine. QOpen 06:00 - 04:00, Sun 14:00 - 04:00. PJB

Compañeros B-2, Slovenska 51. Head down a too-long

P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

R Internet

L Guarded parking

O Casino

J Old Town location

6 Animal friendly

W Wi-Fi

B Outside seating

V Home delivery

Bars

Atrium G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 147 02 700, fax (+386) 147 02 708, info@hotel.mons.si, www.mons. si. The elegant bar at the Mons hotel is a cocktail lovers delight. There’s bar food too, as well as a cracking selection of desserts. For an after-conference quick one it’s a must. The difficult bit is not ending up staying the whole evening. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PHLGKW

Bi-Ko-Fe B-3, Židovska Steza 2, tel. (+386) 14 25 93 93.

Situated on a sloping cobbled lane opposite the central univeristy building, BiKoFe is something of a Mecca for hipsters (or at least the European equivalent), students, artists and the like. The outside terrace is crowded from open till close - thanks at least in part to the ban on smoking indoors - and the entire place gets packed most nights, with an atmosphere more akin to a house party than a bar. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6UBXSW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

28. Handkerchiefs for lampshades, a vaulted brick ceiling and not a sign of Humphrey Bogart anywhere. Not unlike the couple from Kent who called their child Depressed Cupboard Cheesecake, the owner wasn’t really thinking when he came up with the moniker here. After all’s said and done however, during the summer at least the place fills to bursting with a diverse crowd of happy-go-lucky locals and tourists. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. POJ6GBCW

bright orange hallway and dive bar, that clearly caters to a youthful crowd looking to drink cheap and fast while listening to the daily DJ set. The day we went the bar was plastered floor to ceiling with dirty handwritten signs advertising drink deals. If you’re under 25, or just act like you are, this is the place for you. Q Mon-Tue 07:30-00:30, Wed-Fri 07:30-02:30, Sat 10:00-02:30, Sun Closed JAGBXS

Conestoga C-2, Trubarjeva 43, conestoga@email.it. Doesn’t look all that much from the outside: only a barrel or two gives away the fact that this a drinking den, and nothing that this is in fact a live music venue par excellence. The tiniest stage in Ljubljana (Europe even) hosts live acts most evenings playing blues, jazz and rock. Take home a souvenir t-shirt, a bargain €9. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00. JRUEGB

Čupiterija B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 59 712 368.This

place may be located on Mestni Trg in the heart of Old Ljubljana, but don’t let that fool you: it’s the epitome of funky - in a good a way. First of all it also goes by the name Hijo de Puta, a mildly vulgar Spanish phrase (if you’re not sure what it means we don’t want to ruin the surprise). Then there’s the interior, a dizzying hodge podge of Gaudi-inspired colours and textures spreading through several rooms and multiple levels. It’s also one of the only places in town where we feel obligated to forego our usual beer and whiskey and order cocktails to go along with the free nightly tapas. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PJAGBS

Fétiche B-3, Stari Trg 25/(+386) 040 70 03 70, www. fetiche.si. A dark and moody, space-age cocktail bar on two levels complete with everything a cocktail bar should possess. Sit in the company of wannabe supermodels and young boys

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nightlife with their expensive trousers falling down and gaze in wonder at the vast model pictures, retro furniture and the obligatory huge mirror ball. There’s outside seating too, and, rather oddly, a small boutique selling expensive designer fashion upstairs. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00.PJA6GBXW

Kamera Klub C-2, Kolodvorska 6, tel. (+386) 1432 50 29,

kamera@amis.net. A particularly interesting local bar for local people containing some of the best and worst examples of interior design in the city. There’s sport on the television, men with berets and large moustaches, and, strangely, a personal computer with internet access in case nobody wants to talk to you. QOpen 06:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:30 - 23:00. PJAUGW

Lar’s Bar C-3, Gornji Trg 23. Sleek lines and more than a

mod towards Scandinavian design at this sublime little bar on a quiet central side street. Owned and run by the eponymous Lars, expect a wide range of Scandinavian cocktails, many of which are mixed to perfection on the biggest vodka cocktail list we’ve seen this side of Oslo. Offbeat nights in Ljubljana should both begin and end here. QOpen 15:00. - 01:00, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Sun. PJGB

Opera Bar B-2, Cankarjeva 12, tel. (+386) 1421 03 90,

info@opera-bar.com, www.opera-bar.com. A bright, large, colourful space popular with many of the city’s more well-heeled residents, including those who like to attend the opera house across the street, Opera Bar is your classic café-bar. It brims with good-looking types drinking coffee during the day and something a little stronger later on. The Australian-Slovenian ownwership explains the huge Aborigine-style painted ceiling and walls. QOpen , Mon, Tue, Wed 07:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 07:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.PJHAEGBXS

Playa J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 40 57 35 72, bar@

playa.si. This fancy bar inside of BTC center gained notoriety for being co-owned by one of Slovenia’s better pop stars, Jan Plestenjak. They serve hot and cold drinks from a full bar as well as a tasty selection of pricey cocktails. They also organize regular music nights from national and international acts. The bar is nice, but as cars steadily pass through the maze like parking area it makes it hard to relax and party at the shopping mall. QOpen 08:00 - 00:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. No admission. PAULGBXSW

Rollbar J-2, Hala 18 (BTC City), tel. (+386) 1585 25 70,

www.indoor-karting.com. Another reason to visit the huge BTC complex is this extraordinary place. Taking the gimmick of the race-car-theme-drinking-hole to its logical conclusion, this subterranean boozer not only comes complete with enough racing paraphernalia to start your very own F1 museum, it’s actually got a go-kart racing circuit. There are no drink-driving laws here, just a bunch of electric go-carts and a hangarsize space to wiggle them through. Not quite as tame as it sounds, these go-carts when running on full power have a top speed of 120kph, restricted for obvious reasons here to a more sensible albeit still stupidly fast 65kph. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:30, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. AUEGBXW

Roxly C-2, Mala 5, tel. (+386) 41 399 599, info@

roxly.si, www.roxly.si. Spread over two floors, Roxly offers meals by day and music by night. The coffee bar and restaurant is popular during the day, with a menu made up of local and international dishes and a view of the castle from the outdoor dining area. By night, DJs and live music, mainly of the blues and rock varieties, keep this place rolling along until three in the morning.QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun. (€6-18). PJAEGBXSW

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Roža B-3, Židovska 6. Dark and jazzy, find among other hip drinkers plenty of sophisticated students chucking back glasses of expensive wine and cocktails in two rooms decorated with padded walls and lots of nice little extra touches. You’re in the heart of bohemian Ljubljana now, with plenty of other choices in this league if it isn’t doing it for you. QOpen 7:30 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 01:00.PJULENGX Slon Lounge B-2, Slovenska 34 (Best Western Slon),

tel. (+386) 1470 11 55, www.hotelslon.com. If Ljubljana were a village, this would be the village pub. This legendary bar in the legendary hotel of the same name is the kind of place where people arrange to meet, and where they can sink back in comfortable armchairs, chatting while they knock back a devilishly good coffee or cocktail in an atmosphere that’s at once business-like and relaxed. An almost circular affair with huge windows overlooking the busy street outside, this is most people’s first choice for informal get togethers. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Sun 10:30 - 24:00. (€7-15). PT� JAUGBKXSW

Sputnik H-2/3, Tržaška 128, tel. (+386) 1423 23 72, fax

(+386) 1256 67 95, dobrodosli@sputnik.si, www.sputnik. si. Suave, dark and moody, featuring 60s retro furniture with lots of beautiful-looking people sitting on it, ice-cold beer and cocktails, a long, long bar and waitresses with even longer legs. A nice café during the day, Sputnik transforms itself during the evenings into a much buzzier place with occasional special events. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Fri 06:00 - 02:00, Sat 07:00 - 02:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. PA6ULEGBXW

Stara Mačka B-3, Krojaška 8, tel. (+386) 1251 17 49,

info@staramacka.si, www.staramacka.si. The ground floor space of this combined cocktail bar and steak house restaurant has opted for something along the lines of a Cuban vibe, with plenty of Cuban cocktails on the menu to accompany the Cuban music and cigars also on offer. Upstairs find a small restaurant with lots of classic 60s-style red lampshades turning out a reasonable menu of appetizers, steaks, fresh salads and seafood dishes. For those who can’t be bothered to move too far from where they eat to where they end up drinking, Stara Mačka may well prove too tempting to resist. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. (€4-15). PJA6UGBKXSW

Zlata Ladjica B-3, Jurčičev Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1241 06

96, info@zltim.si, www.zlataladjica.si. Lots of vaulted ceilings, pictures of sailing ships, rigging, sails and a DJ booth inside a wooden barrel, the rum selection is surprisingly lacking in variety and there’s not a sailor in sight, but it beats the lacklustre banality of most Irish pubs any day of the week. As well as the main bar area there are also a couple of smaller rooms for more intimate moments, and one of central Ljubljana’s biggest terraces. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. (€7-20). PTJA6UEGBKXSW

October - November 2009

nightlife

The Temptation of Wine in the Heart of Ljubljana Opening hours: Mondays to Saturdays from 12.00 to 24.00

Wine Bar Movia Mestni trg 2, T: 01 452 54 48 Žmauc A-3, Rimska 21, tel. (+386) 1251 03 24. Ask

any tuned-in local to make a list of their favourite bars and they’re almost certain to put this place on the list. Covered in quality graffiti outside and always featuring a huddle of interesting-looking individuals smoking suspiciously large cigarettes by the entrance, the exterior is but a mild prelude to what’s inside. A smallish L-shaped bar is packed day and night with more strange characters amidst an interior design scheme straight from the pages of a Manga comic. Excellent for coffee or something a little stronger. Highly recommended. QOpen 07:30 - 01:00, Sat 10:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. PJA6GB

Billiards

7edma Lukna J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala A), tel.

(+386) 1585 14 89. On the basement level in BTC’s Hala A shopping centre, this place does a commendable job of hiding its existence from the general public - not a difficult feat when your main entrance is at the bottom of a loading ramp. Despite their modern location they have the good sense to turn the lights down low enough to maintain a certain level of seediness that should be obligatory for any self-respecting pool hall. Perhaps most importantly the tables are nice and prices low: €5-7 per hour for groups and only €2 for loners who prefer to play by themselves. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. 6XW

Biljardna Hiša Parmova 25, tel. (+386) 1236 20 12, qb@siol.net, www.biljardna-hisa.com. Ljubljana’s most popular billiards place is a few minutes walk north of the city centre in Bežigrad. Consisting of one large open space underneath exposed wood rafters the interior feels rather barn-like, which is pretty much exactly what we look for in a pool hall. There’s also a large glass-enclosed self-service smoking area - although unfortunately they have yet to cram any pool tables in there. You can expect at least a short wait for a table at the weekends, so don’t forget to get your name on the list. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. AL

Casinos The automated casino, or gaming saloon, has arrived in a big way - no more croupiers saying rien ne va plus, but no more strict dress code either, though you still won’t get in wearing jogging clothes. You’ll need to be 18 and carry ID to enter.

Casino Kongo Ljubljanska 65, 1290 Grosuplje, tel. (+386) 1781 02 00, info@kongo-hc.com, www.kongohc.com. An African-themed gaming hall with electronic roulette and scores of slot machines. Once inside, soft drinks and food are on the house, though there are two African

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

restaurants (plus the ‘Kanibal’ self-service buffet) on site too. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00. Admission €10 (includes gambling tickets). POAULEGBKXW

Casino Lev B-2, Vošnjakova 1 (Hotel Lev), tel. (+386) 1518 56 46, casino.lev@siol.net, www.casinolev. com. Slot machines, gaming tables and some of the bestlooking waitresses on the planet in the basement of the hotel of the same name. Q Open 24hrs. No admission. POJHAULEG

Grand Casino Ljubljana H-1, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) 1436 13 69, casino@casino-lj.si, www.casinolj.si. Every temptation under the sun for those with money to burn, next door to the Austria Trend hotel. Slot machines and playing tables with live croupiers. Q Open 15:00 - 05:00, Sun 12:00 - 05:00. Open 24hrs. Admission €5. POJAULEGW

Clubs

As Lounge B-3, Čopova 5, Knafljev prehod, tel. (+386)

1425 88 22, www.gostilnaas.si. This fabulous lounge is the third string to the three-string bow that is As. Featuring lots of laid-back browns and oranges with comfortable sofas and a mix of well-heeled clients, enjoy loads of cocktails and DJs in a chill-out environment that’s one in a million. Private parties also available. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAG

Bachus B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1241 82 44,

info@bachus-center.com, www.bachus-center.com. One of the longest running nightclubs in the centre of Ljubljana, this place accordingly bursts with people whenever there’s something good going on. Running the gamut of themed nights appealing to everyone from students to those looking for the best DJs in the city, this is currently the liveliest place in town for everyone to let their hair down and have some good old-fashioned fun. QOpen 08:00 - 06:00, Mon 08:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. PJAEG

Emonska klet B-3, Plečnikov Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1421 93 00, emonska.klet@siol.net, www.emonskaklet.com. As well as being a large subterranean restaurant-bar in the heart of the city centre serving traditional Slovenian food, this is also where scores of young and not-so-young people head for during the evenings and weekends when it doubles as a club venue. As well as rolling around on the floor drunk, other things to do under the large vaulted brick ceilings are listen to the occasional DJ or even a band or two, get stuck in a conversation with expats and dance like a complete idiot. Fun! QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Admission €1. PJAEG

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niGhtlife InBox J-3, Jurčkova 224, tel. (+386) 1600 50 86/(+386) 040 47 79 61, info@inbox-club.si, www.inbox-club. si. This massive warehouse-style venue on the southern outskirts of town has been packing in Slovene clubbers, under one guise or another, for the better part of a decade. It generally attracts a younger crowd that always comes to party, and is where you’re most likely to to find big-name international DJs in Slovenia. From time to time it also hosts pop or rock acts and has random theme nights, such as the reoccurring Hawaii Party, where tropical attire is not only encouraged but obligatory. QOpen , Wed, Thu 21.00 - 4.00, Fri, Sat 21:00 - 05:00. Admission: Free to €26 depending on the event (check their website for details). PALEG

Klub 300 H-1, Regentova 35, tel. (+386) 1 510 39 40, fax (+386) 1 510 39 41, info@bowlingklub300. com, www.bowlingklub300.com. Celebrating a birthday? Graduating? Reunion? Organizing a business meeting or get together? If it’s a good time you need, Klub 300 is a friend indeed any day of the week. Order a ‘zirafa’ for the group (a 3 litre long tube of bubbling local beer which allows you to pour your own draught) and take on your friends or colleagues at one of the bowling alleys, or at a game of pool. El Toro, a Mexican restaurant attached to the complex, fries up a spicy dish for just under a tener and the cocktails are only a fiver. The VIP room is especially suited for business meetings who want to mix work with a bit of fun. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00, Wed 13:00 - 24:00, Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00. PALG

Klub SubSub A-1, Celovška 54a, klub@subsub.si, www.

subsub.si. The oldest club in Ljubljana doesn’t really get going until about 1 am but when it does it doesn’t let up until 5 or 6 in the morning. Specialising in ‘good music’, with underground DJs and bands, SubSub attracts a mix of locals and tourists who want to hear the full gamut of alternative dance tracks from hip hop to funk to reggae. The cover charge depends on who is spinning or playing and once through the doors you’ll be part of a hip crowd ranging in age from their teens to their late 30’s. Check out the website for a glimpse at what’s upcoming and a taste test of the sounds you’re likely to hear. QOpen 17:00 - 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 05:00, Sun 15:00 - 02:00. (€3-16). PJALEGBXW

Orto Bar E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16

74, www.orto-bar.com. A combined bar and live music venue dedicated to the glorious and mostly unpretentious world of rock music, filled nightly with a well-behaved crowd in leather jackets etc, drinking the night away and taking advantage of one of the few regular live music venues in the city. The bar is worth visiting on its own. Long and thin, there’s a line of old turning ventilators along one wall, giving the place a futuristic, Mad Max feel. QOpen 08:00 - 05:00, Mon, Tue, Wed 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 18:00 - 21:00. PALEGBX

Top: Eat & Party A-3, Tomšičeva 2, tel. (+386) 40 17 77 75, www.klubtop.si. Located on the top floor of a commercial building in the heart of the city centre, this recentlyopened venue is already the odds-on favourite to win the prestigious “Most Literally Named Club in Slovenia” award, and is looking to compete internationally later this summer. Local DJs spin a good variety of music Wednesday to Saturday, running the gamut from live jazz and bossa nova to the latest house cuts. If you’re not in the mood for going out, at least try to stop by during the day for a coffee on the terrace and some great views of the castle and old town. Q Open Sun-Tue 08:30-22:00, Wed-Sat 08:30-05:00 Admission: Free before 23:00 and €6 after. PJAEGBKW

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Ultra B-2, Nazorjeva 8, tel. (+386) 31 56 07 13, www.

ultra-club.si. If you find yourself painfully unprepared at the salsa night a few doors day, you can slink down to this fancy disco for something a little more free-formed. The bar features DJs and various theme nights from house to hip hop and the full bar also offers an assortment of cocktails whenever you take a break from the throbbing crowd. QOpen 20.00 - 03.00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Admission €5. PJAG

Jazz Clubs

Gajo Jazz Club B-2, Beethovnova 8, tel. (+386) 1425 32 06, www.jazzclubgajo.com. Roll over Beethoven - this is perhaps Ljubljana’s most famous Jazz venue, with regular jam sessions (Monday nights), concerts by local and international artists and other events. besides listening to music, it’s a great place for a few beers too. During the summer months the club moves outdoors to a garden opposite the main entrance to the National Gallery on Tomšičeva. The programme can be found on the club’s English-language website. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJAEGS

Mons Jazz Club G-2, Pot Za Brdom 55, tel. (+386) 1470 27 00, fax (+386) 1470 27 08, info@hotel.mons. si, www.mons.si. One of the city’s top jazz venues. Every month or so the Mons hotel hosts top quality jazz featuring some of Europe’s finest performers. If you live in town or are a regular visitor, buy the season ticket” valid for all concerts over the year. Q PAULGW

clickandbuy.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

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Sax Pub B-4, Eipprova 7, tel. (+386) 1283 14 57. This

is what happens when an unruly youth inherits his great aunt’s country cottage. This now legendary, graffiti-spattered nightspot wouldn’t last a week in New Orleans, but in Ljubljana there’s nothing of its kind to beat it. A fairly small bar features photographs of jazz greats on the walls and a clientele of people who appreciate what Charles Mingus once referred to as black classical music. Most of the time the music is pre-recorded, but they do have the occasional live band in from time to time. Call to see what’s on. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Mon 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. JA6LEGBD

Pubs

Cutty Sark B-3, Knafljev Prehod 1, tel. (+386) 1425 14 77. One of the most popular bars in the city and frequented by all manner of locals and expats, Cutty Sark provides two dark bars and a summer terrace, childish art on the walls, model ships and the world’s biggest chewing gum machine. Featuring a good selection of local and international beer, find it bursting with interesting specimens most evenings. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 15:00 - 01:00. PTJA6UEGBXSW

Guinness Pub B-3, Gosposka 3, tel. (+386) 1426 62 93,

www.guinnesspub.net. Enough Guinness mirrors to keep everyone in town high for a week, plenty of comfortable cubby holes and a splendid little summer courtyard in the heart of the student district. Draught beers include Guinness plus Kilkenny and that old English 80s favourite, Woodpecker cider. Friendly and different enough to be worthy of at least a little plaudits, put this one on your pub-crawl list for sure. QOpen 07:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PJA6UGBX

Patrick’s Irish Pub C-2, Prečna 6, tel. (+386) 1230 17 68. Smoking bans can cause many changes to the fabric of a society, not least to the basic atmosphere of the classic Irish pub. Long gone now is the lingering nicotine smog that helped shape the style of this cellar bar, but the overall atmosphere remains more or less intact. Popular with locals, expats and tourists alike, the bar stocks all your favourite Irish tipples, served by a gaggle of cheery bar staff, plus there’s the usual live sport on a big screen. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Sat 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. (€5,50-7). PTJA6EGSW

Premier Pub C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 17, tel. (+386)

1430 52 31. A pleasant enough riverside café-bar with its very own whiskey bar, sport on the television, postcards from friends who long since moved on and good outdoor seating when the weather’s right. Hardly the sort of place to spend and entire evening in, but worth checking out all the same if you’re planning on drinking yourself up and down both sides of the water for the evening. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PJA6ULEGX

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Turbo Folk

En Pub H-1, Celovška 150, tel. (+386) 1514 11 26, www.

enpub.si. The true sounds of the suburbs echo around the walls of this extraordinary little place practically non-stop. Leave your gun in the car, clear security and the metal detector, and you’re free to indulge your wildest wishes. Every night is different, from hopelessly sentimental romantic nights of ballads to all-night DJ parties featuring the classic Turbo Folk girls. QOpen 06:30 - 24:00, Thu 06:30 - 03:00, Fri 06:30 - 05:00, Sat 09:00 - 05:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PTA6ULGBXW

Wine Bars Dvorni Bar B-3, Dvorni Trg 2, tel. (+386) 12 51 12

57, guinnesspub@siol.net, www.dvornibar.net. This large L-shaped adventure is a pleasant café during the day and the city’s trendiest wine bar by night. There’s a swanky jazzy area at one end for more wine-oriented patrons, while the other side is a little more geared towards the restaurant crowd. With upwards of 100 varieties of wine in stock it’s a great place to sample local vintages if you don’t have time to trek out to one of Slovenia’s wine growing regions, and organised tastings are held every second Wednesday from 20:00-22:00. QOpen 08:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. (€4.50-15). PTJHA6UEGBKXSW

Movia B-3, Mestni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54

48, movia@siol.net, www.movia.si. The Slovenian Movia vineyards have been producing quality plonk for longer than anyone can remember, and this, their little showcase wine bar in the old town, is a fine place to come and try some of their excellent products. Found slightly hidden away inside a little covered courtyard, Movia is barely bigger than a telephone box, features extremely friendly staff, and even serves a selection of food especially prepared to compliment the wines on offer. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Sun. PYJ6UGBX

Wine Cellars of Slovenia (Vinske Kleti Slovenija) C-1, Dunajska 18, tel. (+386) 1431 50 15,

vinskekletislovenije@siol.net, www.vks.si. The oldest and largest wine shop in the country naturally has a classy restaurant attached where discerning diners may sample some, or all, of the 80 wines on the menu. This is a place where the choice of good Slovenian dishes is based on the wine, rather than the other way round. Recommended. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 17:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€6-20). PALGBKX

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adult entertainMent

Slovene advertising: The epitome of class and sophistication Although Ljubljana is a relatively small city, it does make space for sexy and sinful late night entertainment for adults, gays, lesbians, transvestites and so on. There are several strip clubs in Ljubljana that have recently sprung up around the city displaying a diversity of foreign girls for escorting, table-dancing, stripping or just to keep you company if you buy them an (expensive) drink, and we mean €100 for the cheapest bottle of champagne. Clubs usually provide a dance show, often being quite explicit. Escorts in Ljubljana are limited but your hotel can advise you where to find a companion for the night. Although prostitution is not illegal in Slovenia, you would have to

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look very hard to find any girl working the streets. Of course, we don’t advise that you try as these girls do not necessarily undergo any medical examination. It is best to stick with the more ‘refined’ selection we have on offer in Ljubljana.

Escape E-1, Grablovičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1232 16 74.

On the lowest level of the ever popular Orto, this club’s surroundings are consistent with the rock club atmosphere that is housed above it. There is a small stage for striptease, but lapdances and personal attention are the real focus here with private dances available at your table or in one of the back rooms. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Admission €16. PJAG

October - November 2009

adult entertainMent Hard Core Cafe G-3, Dolgi Most 4, tel. (+386) 41 71

66 12, info@hardcorecafe.si, www.hardcorecafe.si. With a name like that you can’t help but smile and get in a taxi and head here. The concept is simple: outstanding erotic entertainment provided by prefessionals in a safe environment for groups of lads of all ages and backgrounds. Nobody pesters you to buy them extortionate ‘lady drinks’, there is always something worth watching on stage, and entrance is free. Drinks are reasonably priced - even the erotic ones - and the girls who perform here are on the whole of a far higher phwoar category then elsewhere. QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. PJAG

Sex shops Red Shop C-3, Gornji trg 24, tel. (+386) 1425

32 29/(+386) 41 62 46 08, redshopnada@gmail. com, www.redshop.si/. Concentrating mainly on sex toys of all sorts, this store offers a great variety of accessories that will help you enrich your sex life. You can visit the establishment in the old part of town or shop online. Just don’t expect much help from the clerk, in English or otherwise. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Venera Shop C-2, Trubarjeva 43, tel. (+386) 1432 41 83, www.venera-shop.si. Ever wondered about going a little crazier in bed? Well, what are you waiting for? In this sex shop you’ll find all the little toys your heart might desire. A large selection of videos, lubricants and all types of things that run on batteries. Check it out. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Klub Slon B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1470 11 48, ecarte@siol.net. The most centrally-located adult entertainment club in town in the basement of popular Hotel Slon, this is also the tamest . The small group of girls, who you’ll mostly find fully dressed, do a a few nightly topless cabaret shows. While lapdances and the like are not offered here, when the women are not dancing they are available for some personal interaction. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. PY� JAEGBXSW NEW

Latino Nightclub J-2, Šmartinska 152 (BTC Hala 18),

tel. (+386) 59 95 21 21, info@latino-club.com, www. latino-nightclub.com. Located underneath the Arena Centre in BTC, Ljubljana’s newest nightclub is an immaculately kept affair that could easily double as a mainsteam club - if not for the topless girls on stage. As implied by the name, the majority of dancers are Dominican but there are also some Thai and Ukrainian girls for the sake of variety. Drinks are only at a slight premium to what you’d pay in the city centre and a two-song private dance will set you back €30. Every other Thursday there’s a special show, usually featuring a large snake or girl-on-girl preformance, and package deals are also available for groups. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00. Free admission. PALG

Tanga J-1/2, Brnčičeva 13, info@tangaclub.com, www. tangaclub.com. This club is quite a trek from the center of town, along a lonely stretch of railroad track so definitely bring a map. Once you get there, head upstairs from the bar café and find a neon-lighted multi-leveled space with a wide selection of international ladies and a menu full of drinks and services. QOpen 21:00 - 04:00. Free admission. PALG

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Gay & lesBian Ljubljana was at the forefront of the gay and lesbian movement in Eastern Europe during the mid-1980s, and since then has maintained an active GLBT community with many well-organised groups promoting gay rights and culture. This year marks the official 25th anniversary of the movement in Slovenia, and has already seen some important events, including the opening of the Q Cultural Centre back in April and an especially active Pride week earlier this summer. However, it would be a stretch to call Ljubljana a gay-friendly city - perhaps gay-ambivalent would be more apropos - as incidents of discrimination and even outright violence are not unheard of.

Cafés

Café Open Hrenova 19, tel. (+386) 41 391 371, info@

Slovenia for Gay Travelers sloveniaforgaytravelers@ yahoo.com, www.sloveniaforgaytravelers.com. As the name suggests, these guys specialise in arranging gay-friendly tours and accommodation for visitors in Slovenia. Their English language website is immensely helpful and a good place to start if you’re interested in planning a trip or just finding out a bit more about gay culture in the country. A room in Ljubljana’s only gay owned and operated guest house (SOMI Rooms) can be booked directly from the website, and they have also put together a comprehensive gay guide to all of Slovenia - although outside of the capital the pickings are rather slim.

Saunas & Massage

Gymnisivm Sauna Pohorskega Bataljona 34, tel.

open.si, http://www.open.si. Some places try a little too hard to attract specific groups of people, but this coffee shop isn’t one of them. A gay and lesbian owned café near the river in a quiet neighbourhood south of the old town, it’s smallish multi-coloured interior is bright and airy, and there’s usually good music drifting out of the speakers above. From time to time it hosts cultural events including music and literature evenings. Check their website (Slovene only) for details of upcoming events. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00.

(+386) 1534 24 85, gymnasium@volja.net, www.klublibero.si. Located in north Ljubljana not far from the ring road, Gymnasivm is a men’s only sauna and club occupying a converted house in a mixed residential and industrial area. In addition to sauna and steam bath facilities, there is also a TV lounge, snack bar and fitness equipment available. Buses 6, 8, 11 and 14 will all drop you within a short walk of the place, and photos and more detailed info regarding house rules can be found in English on their website. Q Mon-Thu 15:00-22:00, Fri & Sat 15:00-23:00, Sun closed. During summer 17:00-23:00 Mon-Sat.

Events

Thai Sabai Dunajska 9a, tel. (+386) 31 31 00 75, info@

Ljubljana Gay and Lesbian Film Festival (Festival Gejevskega in Lezbičnega Filma) Kolodvorska 13,

NEW

www.ljudmila.org/siqrd/fglf/. Originally launched in 1984, it holds the distinction of being the oldest gay and lesbian film festival in all of Europe. It’s held annually the first week of December, and films are screened from all over the world. This year’s 25th anniversary event promises to be the largest ever.

thaisabai-si.com, www.thaisabai-si.com. Gay-friendly Thai massage parlour just north of the city centre - right next to the hideous Delo building. They provide a variety of traditional massages at competitive prices, and all their masseuses are certified by the Thai Ministry of Public Health. They’re also currently offering a 15% discount, and all new customers receive a coupon for a free massage for a friend. Erotic massages are not available. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. (€25-55).

Nightlife

Sports & Recreation

Sunday, and some Saturdays, this popular gay-friendly club (pronounced ‘Kah Shteer-ee’ in Slovene) hosts gay and lesbian nights under its alternate personality, Roza Klub - which is also an independent political organisation and one of the driving forces behind the Gay and Lesbian Film Festival and Pride week. See our full review of K4 under clubs in the Nightlife section. Q Open Tue & Sun from 22:00, Wed-Sat from 23:00. Mon closed. Closed during July and August.

info@outinslovenija.com, www.outinslovenija.com. Formerly an independent group founded in 2000, it is now serves as something of the sports wing of a larger organisation (DIH or the Association for the Integration of Homosexuality). They organise sports and recreation activities several times per week, which regularly include bowling, badminton, volleyball and swimming. Membership is not necessary in order to participate, although members do get discounts. Their website is in both Slovene and English and includes a calendar of upcoming events.

K4 Roza Kersnikova 4, fax (+386) 1438 03 01. Every

Resources

Lezbična Knjižnica (Lesbian Library) Metelkova

6, tel. (+386) 1432 73 06, fax (+386) 1232 91 85, sekcijaskuc@mail.ljudmila.org, www.ljudmila.org/ lesbo/. Open since 2001, this is another Metelkova-based organisation that is overseen by ŠKUC. Specializing mainly in gender and sexuality-related topics, the library has the most comprehensive special collection of literature on homosexuality in Slovenia. It includes literary works, periodicals, audiovisual resources, documents on human rights, media and documentary archives. Membership is free and their collection can be browsed online. Q Open Thu and Fri from 15:00-19:00. Closed during July and August.

SiQRD (Slovenian Queer Resources Directory) , www.ljudmila.org/siqrd/. A comprehensive site for all things GLBT in Slovenia, with English listings for organisations, events and venues as well as a concise historical overview of the gay and lesbian movement (and homophobia) in Slovenia.

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Out in Slovenia Kašeljska 121, tel. (+386) 41 562 375,

Q Cultural Centre Q Cultural Centre Masarykova 24 (Metelkova),

tel. (+386) 14 30 35 35, kulturnicenterq@gmail. com, www.kulturnicenterq.org. Officially opened on 24 April 2009, which was the 25th anniversary of the the gay rights movement in Slovenia, the centre has roots going all the way back to 1993. It’s a joint project of ŠKUC - one of Slovenia’s largest arts and cultural organisations, and a leading proponent of gay rights - and two long-running gay and lesbian clubs, Tiffany and Monokel, which are located on the same premises. The centre’s main focus is the promotion of gay and lesbian culture, and it hosts regular events such as literature readings, concerts, theatre performances, exhibitions, lectures, debates and workshops. Both clubs also host parties every Friday (and sometimes on Saturday) night from around 20:00 till late.

October - November 2009

What to see Ljubljana Castle is arguably the main attraction for visitors to the city, but all that lies beneath it from the Old Town to Ljubljana’s multitude of museums and galleries are more than worthy of further investigation. The extraordinary combination of treats, from the architecture of Jože Plečnik’s to the historic atmosphere of the Old Town to the occasional blast-to-the-past burst of retro-Yugoslav city planning all work together in harmony to create the most unique of cities.

Cemeteries

Žale Cemetery (Pokopališče Žale) J-1, Med

na’s most characteristic structure(s), the triple bridge is a curious merger of a 19th century road bridge (itself replacing a medieval wooden bridge), with two 1930s pedestrian bridges designed by Plečnik, who took the opportunity to do up the whole ensemble with lamps and stone balustrades.

Hmeljniki 2, tel. (+386) 1420 17 00, info@zale.si, www.zale.si. Built on the site of a much earlier cemetery attached to the neighbouring (and still standing) Holy Cross Church, what’s arguably Plečnik’s Ljubljana masterpiece was completed in 1940. The grand arched B. Jakše & S. Jeršič en tran ce compl ete wi th stark white colonnades supposedly represents the gateway between the lands of the living and the dead. Between them and the cemetery itself are a series of peculiar buildings, chapels and monuments including the Žale funeral home. Architectural styles abound, reflecting Plečnik’s vision of equality among religions. The cemetery itself, once you get there, is a pleasure to behold and is worthy of a good hour’s stroll. The final resting place of many Slovenian greats including Plečnik himself, also find a small area given over to the Jewish population of the city. QOpen 07:00 - 21:00.

Buildings

Churches

Bridges

Čevljarski Most (Cobblers’ Bridge) B-3, . Another Plečnik creation, this elegant 1930s bridge is named after the cobblers’ workshops located on its predecessor. Pillars of various sizes stand on the bridge, some supporting lamps, others simply holding stone balls in the air.

Tromostovje (Triple Bridge) B-3, . Perhaps Ljublja-

Mestna Hiša (Town Hall) B-3, Mestni Trg 1. The 15th century Town Hall was dramatically altered over the ages, and given a Baroque facelift in the early 18th century. Note the original medieval coat of arms on the building. Inside, you can view the Grand Council Chamber, wedding hall and banquet hall. Tours are available by appointment at the tourist office. Q Guided tours €2.

Nebotičnik (Skyscraper) B-2, Štefanova 1. Believe it or not, this lovely little skyscraper was, at 70 metres, one of the highest buildings in Europe when it was built in 1933. The rooftop café sadly closed long ago.

Tourist information L jub l ja n a To uri s t I n f or m a t i o n C e n tr e (Turistični informacijski center) C-3, Adamič-

Lundrovo Nabrežje 2, tel. (+386) 1306 12 15, fax (+386) 1306 12 04, tic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.si. A small but extremely well equipped resource with plenty of maps, brochures galore in English, information about what’s on in the city and a range of information on what to see and do in the region. They also organise tours, can help with accommodation, and should be one of your first ports of call when you arrive. Their website is one of the best we’ve seen in Central Europe and is well worth further investigation. Friendly, informative staff too. Q Open October-May 08:00 - 19:00. Also at the bus and train station (tel. 433 94 75; open 08:00 - 22:00, Oct-May 10:00 - 19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday Closed)

Slovenian Tourist Information Center (STIC)

C-3, Krekov trg 10, tel. (+386) 1306 45 75, fax (+386) 1306 45 80, stic@visitljubljana.si, www. visitljubljana.si. Slovenia’s national tourism office. Maps, brochures and general information about travel throughout the country. QOpen October-May 08:00 - 19:00, Saturday 08:00-15:00, Sunday closed.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

As you may have already noticed, the old town boasts a number of famous churches dating far back to the Baroque period under the influence of Venetian architecture. Aside from during mass, most of the main churches are open to the public from 15:00-18:00.

Cathedral (Sv. Nikolaja) C-3, Dolničarjeva 1, tel.

(+386) 1231 06 84. With its classic twin towers and trademark single, weather-worn green dome, the city’s cathedral, more properly known as St Nicholas’ Church, encapsulates everything that is Ljubljana. Small and interesting, but not too exciting at first glance, a longer look at its history and finer details reveals its hidden charm and beauty. Built on the site of a much earlier church, the cathedral’s main structure and appearance dates from the first half of the 18th century. Inside the Baroque masterpiece’s pink shell is a cavalcade of classic creams and golds, littered with extraordinarily detailed frescoes and possessing that calming feeling that only a great church can bring. Of particular interest are the ornate choir stalls and Robba’s maginficent angels on the main altar. Don’t forget to check out the astonishing pair of bronze doors on the western and southern sides. Dating from 1996 and commissioned to celebrate John Paul II’s visit to the Cathedral, the former celebrates 1250 years of Slovenian Christianity, and the latter, depicting six cardinals in a row with the figure of Christ lying at the front, the history of the diocese of the city.

Evangelical Church (Evangeličanska Cerkev)

B-2, Gosposvetska 9, tel. (+386) 1252 72 80, evang. cerkev.sl@siol.net, www.evang-cerkev.si. Completed in 1852, this fairly unremarkable church represents much that is classic German (or, to be exact, Austrian) austerity. The simple, single-towered magnolia façade hides a basic interior, most of it made from wood, with a few interesting flourishes. The main organ dates from 1878, and the painting on the main altar is the work of a virtually unknown Austrian by the name of Künnel.

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What tosee see What to Top 5 sights (other than the castle) Franciscan Church (Frančiškanski Samostan)

B-3, Prešernov Trg 4, tel. 242 93 00. Built in an instantly recognisable, mildly swirly Baroque fashion, Ljubljana’s mid-16th-century Franciscan Church dominates Prešernov Trg like a big pink bir thday cake. Par t of a larger complex with an additional Franciscan monastery, if you’re lucky enough to find the doors unlocked expect a few treats inside including Robba’s 18th-century altar, some charming frescoes dating from 100 years or so later D.Silpa and a chapel notable for containing a cross designed by none other than Jože Plečnik. For those who don’t appreciate the finer points of ecclesiastic architecture, the front steps do at least provide a nice place to sit and watch the world go by on a gloriously sunny day. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.

Mestni Trg (Town Square)B-3, www.360cities.

net/image/sg-slovenijaljubljana-the-town-hall. Th e cen tre of m e dieval Ljubljana, the town’s main square was damaged in the 1511 earthquake and subsequently rebuilt in Baroque style. The square houses the Town Hall, City Art Museum, the decorated 16th century Lichtenberg house and the Souvan house with its Empire façade.

Prešernov Trg B-3. Formally a meeting place for several

roads in front of one of the old entrance gates to the city, and a public square since Ljubljana’s original defensive walls were torn down in the middle of the 19th century, this is one of the city’s most impor tant landmarks. Named after Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (German, Franz Prescheren, 1800-1849), it’s both a popular meeting place (notably under the large statue of the man after whom the square is named) and a site for concer ts and even ts during the summer. The charming li ttle public space is ringed by a number of interesting sights including the magnificent Art Nouveau façade of the Urbanc House, an extraordinary piece of early 20th-century flamboyance and site of the now sadly closed Centromerkur department store.

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Tivoli Park A-1/2. Ti voli is where the people of

Ljubljana wh o d on’t leave the city spend the weekend. Laid out in 1813 as a place for the general health and recreation of the city’s population, at some fi ve square kilom etres, Ljubljana’s gargantuan bucolic lung - literally two streets west of the city centre - is so packed wi th Mansion-LTB-archive go o d thin gs to s e e and do tha t i t’s almost worth visiting the Slovenian capital just to come here. Set amidst rolling hills, Tivoli Park is a pleasant mixture of lawns (picnics encouraged: something of a shock in this part of the world), pastures, wooded areas and fun adventure playgrounds for the kids (who will love the mini-golf best of all). The best way to enjoy the park is by bike, and bicycles are available for rent from various points throughout the park during the summer. You will need to leave ID as a guarantee you will bring the bike back. As well as its reputation as the top nature spot in the area, Tivoli Park also houses a number of cultural sights including the International Centre of Graphic Arts in the glorious 17th century Tivolski Grad (Tivoli Mansion), the Museum of Modern History and, in the park’s far southwestern reaches, in an area designated as a nature reserve, the city’s half-decent zoo. Also look out for the monument to Primoz Trubar at the entrance to the park. Truboz was an early force in Slovene literature and the creation of a Slovene national identity.

Zmajski Most (Dragon Bridge) Kopitarjeva Ulica.

Sin c e i t op en e d in 1901, Zmajski Most has b een locked in a fierce competition wi th the castle an d t h e c on spi cuously pink Franciscan Church for the title of Most Photographed Sight in Ljubljana. At an y gi ven m om en t during daylight hours (and only slightly less frequentl y at night) there is sure to be at least a person or two clicking away at one of the four large dragons guarding either side of the bridge or the smaller griffins that adorn the bottom of its eight lamp posts. Of course we’re no exception, as we still remember the fog shrouded photo we snapped on our first trip to the city way back in the forgotten days of analogue film. More recently some amateur artiste apparently felt that the mythical beasts were lacking a certain je ne sais quoi and took it upon himself to add a smattering of red paint to their mouths and claws. The jury is still out on whether or not this is an improvements but it does amuse us whenever we walk past.

October - November 2009

What to see Ljubljana Castle

Ljubljana Card

Ljubljana Castle (Ljubljanski Grad) C-3, Grajs-

The Ljubljana Card offers reductions of up to 35% on admission fees, taxi rides, shop prices, car rental and other expenses. The card is valid for 72 hours and costs €12.52. Find it for sale at all tourist information centres and at various hotels, businesses and shops, or order it at www.ljubljanacard.com.

ka Planota 1, tel. (+386) 1232 99 94, info@ljubljanafestival.si, www. ljubljanafestival. si/en/ljubljana_ ca s t l e. P e rc h e d on top of Castle Hill (Grajska Planota) and dominating the city skyline to the south, Ljubljana’s magnificent castle stands on the site of several former defensive buildings in a hilly area of land stretching away to the south of the old town. The current ensemble of buildings originates from necessary 16th-century reconstruction work following the earthquake of 1511, with several later additions. Not unlike Kraków’s Wawel Castle in Poland, Ljubljana Castle has served as both a royal residence and a military barracks over the centuries. Undergoing extensive albeit slow renovation work, the current main points of interest for the visitor are both located inside the Outlook Tower (Razgledni Stolp), built in the 19th century and raised a further 1.2m by the communists in 1982. The tower’s Virtual Museum screens a 20-minute film in 3D, viewed with the aid of special glasses and a headset for an English translation, showing an interesting and informative history of the castle. On the same floor find a small door that takes you to the top of the tower up some 100 red cast-iron steps, each individually decorated with an image of the tower and the city’s dragon. A door at the top leads to a small viewing platform (not for the faint hearted) with wonderful views of the city. Underneath the tower and located down a small flight of stairs tucked away through a doorway in the corner of the courtyard is the diminutive St George’s Chapel (Kapela sv Jurija). Originally Gothic and remodelled in the Baroque style, the chapel is interesting for its 15th-century wall paintings and not a lot more. The castle also has a small art gallery featuring temporary exhibitions, a café, souvenir shop and a branch of the city’s Puppet Museum. It’s also a popular place for local weddings, and during the summer puts on concerts and, in July, hosts a popular outdoor cinema. To reach it, several small paths lead up from the old town, or take the furnicular next to the Puppet Theatre. Ljubljana Castle 1 October - 30 April: 10:00-21:00 daily 1 May - 30 September: 9:00-23:00 daily Virtual Museum, Outlook Tower 1 October - 30 April: 10:00-18:00 daily, 1 May - 30 September: 9:00-21:00 daily Virtual Museum, Outlook Tower€3.50 for adults €2.00 for secondary students, university students, seniors and groups above 15 people Castle tour prices€5.00 for adults €3.50 for secondary students, university students and seniors.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Holy Trinity Church (Cerkev svete trojice) B-3,

Slovenska 21, tel. (+386) 1252 48 64. Constructed to a design by Carlo Marinuzzi between 1718 and 1726 from a commission by local merchant Jakob Schell von Schellenburg, and with all the usual additions over the centuries, this imposing Baroque marvel dominates the area it’s located in not least for its unusual, gabled rooftop façade. Part church and part D.Silpa monastery, the former’s interior is somewhat restrained, its main outstanding feature being a Francesco Robba altar, carved from African marble around 1740. The main steps date from the 1930s and are the work of our old friend Plečnik.

Or thodox Church (Pravoslavna Cerkev) A-2,

Prešernova, tel. (+386) 1252 40 02. Built alongside the southwestern perimeter of Tivoli Park in 1936 to serve the city’s Serbian community, this wholly unremarkable church complete with all the usual ostentatious details, is worth visiting during services, daily at 10:00.

St Joseph (Cerkev Sv. Jožefa) D-3, Zrinjskega 9,

sv.jozef@rkc.si, http://jezuiti.rkc.si/jozef. Following the earthquake of 1895, the religious folk of Ljubljana vowed to get together every Easter to pray that such a terrible thing would never happen again. From 1914 these liturgies were celebrated inside this large and extraordinary-looking church, which was completed in the same year. Built by the Jesuits, the building was confiscated by the communists in 1949 and subsequently handed over to the state film industry who, in a nutshell, wrecked the place. Now back in the hands of the Church, renovation work is ongoing. The half-coffered, half-domed ceiling and everything underneath is now intact, but much work and filling-up remains. Several interesting Yugoslav-era photographs of the building can be found inside the porch.

St Peter (Cerkev Sv. Petra) D-2/3, Trubarjeva 80, tel.

(+386) 1231 79 65. The heritage of the Roman Catholic St Peter’s Church goes back long before this building was completed in 1733, with a number of churches standing on this spot for some 500 years before Giovanni Fusconi’s superb Baroque designs were realised. Inspired by the great churches of Venice, much has been changed over the centuries, including Neoclassical additions following the 1895 earthquake and the construction of a new façade, complete with interesting fish details over the doors between 1938 and 1940 by the local architect Ivan Vurnik. Many changes have been made inside as well, including much work by Vurnik’s wife, Helena. Points of particular interest include Franc Jelovšek’s magnificent frescoes and several altar paintings by Valentin Metzinger.

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What to see Tours

Around Ljubljana

Almost every hotel in the city offers guided tours of one sort or another. Some are good, others just a way of making money. You should be able to spot the scams without too much difficulty. The Tourist Information Centre also offers several walking tours of the city, and can even, if you give them plenty of warning, organise an original one just for you.

Digital Tour Guide C-3, tel. (+386) 1306 12 15, w w w.visitljubljana.si/en/tours_and_excursions/ city_tours/special_experience_tours/77753/detail. html. Let your headseat tour guides Ben and Mandy take you on a two-hour trip past Ljubljana’s highlights. Or switch to their German friends Anna and Thomas, or the Italian duo Paulo and Oriana. With the mp4 digital tour guide player and map in hand, you’ll have explanations about the city’s history and sights, and can see pictures too. Rent the player at TIC (Adamič-Lundrovo 2) and STIC (Krekov trg 10). Q Player rental (5 hours) and map €10 (ID and €10 deposit required).

Ljubljana Night & Day Tel. (+386) 51 893 805,

ljubljanabynight@gmail.com. Le t pre t t y En gli sh speaking guides take you and your mates on an insider’s tour of Ljubljana’s best bars and clubs. Catering to groups of 5-20 people, pick any Friday or Saturday night for this experience, or go for daylight acti vi ties such as th e adrenaline park, pain tball, kar tin g and excursions.

Tourist Train (Turistični Vlakec) B-3, Stritarjeva.

Spare yourself the slog up the hill by taking the tourist train ride up to the castle. Q Departs regularly between 10:00 - 18:00. Return ticket €2-3.

Monuments

France Prešeren B-3. Slovenia’s national poet France Prešeren (1800-1849) stands in the square named in his honour at the foot of the Triple Bridge. As well as offering an interesting visual treat, the monument also serves as a focal point for people meeting in the city. Erected in 1905, the large monolith is the work of the architect Maks Fabiani and sculptor Ivan Zajc and features the Muse of poetry holding a small laurel of bay leaves over his head as well as extracts from his writing around the base.

Robbov Vodnjak (Robba Fountain) B-3, Mestni

Trg. One of the most famous landmarks in the city, this lovel y 1751 fountain is named after its creator, the Italian Baroque sculptor Francesco Robba (16981757), and is also known as The Fountain of Three Carniolan Rivers. It was the last of Robba’s Ljubljana creations. The eight years i t to ok him to compl ete i t essentiall y bankrupted the man, and he finally left the city for Zagreb. Based loosely on the grand fountains of Rome, the artist’s masterpiece features three river gods, supposedly representing the Krka, Ljubljanica and Sava rivers.

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Franc Habe

Postojna Cave (Postojnska Jama) Jamska 30,

tel. (+386) 1700 01 00, fax (+386) 1700 01 30, info@turizem-kras.si, www.turizem-kras.si. The largest cave in Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20 kilometres of galleries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through the most spectacular parts of the cave, at first by a dinky little narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave was discovered in the 17th century, though never properly explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist attraction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the first to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that electric lights were fitted in 1884: some years before such technology was first deployed in Ljubljana itself. Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature of the cave is a chilly 10 degrees Centigrade, so bring a jumper. The caves are also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphibian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part of Europe. The olms can sometimes - though not always - be seen in some of the pools of water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind they are sensitive to flash photography and if you do spot one you should refrain from taking any photos. You will be well and truly told off if you do. To get to Postojna, take any train or bus from Ljubljana heading for the coast, and jump off at Postojna. Q Adults €19, Children €12, Students €16. Organised groups €10-16.

Velika Planina Tel. (+386) 1832 72 58/(+386)

51 34 14 06, info@velikaplanina.si, www.velikaplanina.si/Home. Rising 1666 metres into the Julian Alps, the Velika Planina nature park is only a short drive north of Ljubljana and makes a great day trip for outdoor enthusiasts. While the rolling hills are criss-crossed with hundreds of kilometres of scenic hiking trails and mountain cycling paths, the most unique attraction has to be a traditional dairy herdsmen’s settlement that is fullyfunctioning and open to visitors from June to September. A cable car will bear the burden of transporting you up the mountain, and there’s even a handful of traditional dining and accommodation options once your there.

October - November 2009

what to see Museums & Galleries

City Museum (Mestni Muzej Ljubljana) B-3, Gos-

poska 15, tel. (+386) 1241 25 00, info@mm-lj.si, www. mm-lj.si. A magnificent museum run by a team of historians who know how to show people a good time, showcasing Ljubljana in all its good and bad colours throughout history. Featuring both permanent and temporary exhibitions, this is the best place in town for a crash-course in city history. Find scale models of unfulfilled Plečnik creations, elaborate costumes, old photographs and much more besides. Check out the fabulous little website for upcoming exhibitions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4/2,50. English-language guided tours Sun at 13:00.

Contemporary History Museum (Muzej Novejše Zgodovine) A-1, Celovška 23, tel. (+386) 1300 96

10, uprava@muzej-nz.si, www.muzej-nz.si. If you needed a reason to visit Tivoli Park, it’s here. This fascinating museum inside a wonderful 18th-century mansion presents the history of Slovenia from the period around the start of WWI until independence in 1991. Using a combination of wellpresented exhibits including old photographs, clothing and household items the museum charts the often wobbly path of the nation through and between the two world wars and the difficult and truly fascinating post-war communist years. The building itself is worth seeing alone, being a marvellous combination of original Baroque and the interesting modernist work of the Slovenian architect Jurij Kobe, dating from 1991. QOpen , Tue, Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission €7/3.50.

House of Experiments (Hiša Eksperimentov) C-

2, Trubarjeva 39, tel. (+386) 1300 68 88, info@h-e.si, www.h-e.si. Based on similar wacky, fun and educational places around the globe, the extraordinary House of Experiments features two rooms of purpose-built experiments for the ultimate hands-on experience. Visitors are free to wander around as they wish, Matthew Armstrong engaging with anything that takes their fancy, whether it’s a giant bubble maker, a room full of mirrors or a machine that plays music according to your weight. They also provide what they call Adventures, namely small performances that aim to show different scientific principles, with enticing names like the Centre of Gravitology, Eggology etc. Q Open sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Groups can book special visits outside these days too.

International Centre of Graphic Arts (Mednarodni Grafični Likovni Center) A-2, Pod Turnom 3, tel. (+386)

1241 38 00, lili.sturm@mglc-lj.si, www.mglc-lj.si. Located inside the gorgeous 17th-century Tivoli Mansion, this must-see attraction for anyone with even a passing interesting in the visual arts contains a staggering 4 000 prints and over 4000 ar tist’s books and other printed ephemera, mostly from the second half of the 20th century onwards and including the work of many of the great masters Nena of European graphic ar ts. Q Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Open Monday to Friday 09:00-14:00, closed Sat-Sun & holidays. Admission €3.40/1.70. During the Biennial €6/3.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

National Gallery (Narodna Galerija) B-2, Prešernova

24, tel. (+386) 1241 54 18, info@ng-slo.si, www.ng-slo. si. Inside Czech architect František Edmund Škabrout’s fabulous late 19th-century neo-Renaissance masterpiece with an additional modern wing thrown on for good measure, this above-average gallery features the very best in Slovenian art from the 13th century up to the first half of LTB-archive the 20th century, including paintings by such notable artists as Ivan Grohar (1867-1911), Richard Jakopič (1869-1943) and Ivana Kobilca (1861-1926). The other permanent exhibition in the building focuses on European painting, and includes some really fine examples of the Renaissance-period Italian painting through to the more modernist work of the early 20th century. The gallery also contains a small gift shop, which has several good books and postcards. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €7/3.50.

National Museum (Narodni Muzej) A-2/3, Prešernova

20, tel. (+386) 1241 44 00, info@nms.si, www.narmuz-lj.si. Found lurking inside another of the city’s fine, late 19th-century neo-Renaissance buildings complete with fine painted ceilings and elaborate sculptures on the stairs, this is the oldest museum in country, founded way back in 1841. Permanent displays include an intriguing collection dedicated to the Slovenians and the Slovenian language alongside the usual bits and pieces of interest dug out of the ground, plus a large ensemble of almost 200 examples of carved stonework dating from Roman times excavated in the city and surrounding regions. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.

Natural History Museum (Prirodoslovni Muzej)

A-3, Prešernova 20, tel. (+386) 1241 09 40, uprava@ pms-lj.si, www2.pms-lj.si. Attached to Ljubljana’s National Museum, the Natural History Museum isn’t the best in the world by a long way but it does offer an assortment of oddities to beat the rainy blues away or to simply keep the children amused for a while. Among the many peculiar displays of shells, rocks and an almost complete set of mammoth bones, the human fish is perhaps the museum’s strangest display. Known so for its pinky human flesh appearance, the little proteus anguinus is a blind amphibian found exclusively in a relatively small area including parts of Slovenia, Italy, Croatia and Herzegovina. The gift shop features a handful of fun things for the kids including small build-your-own dinosaur kits. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission €3/2.50, free first Sunday of the month.

Plečnik House (Arhitekturni Muzej, Plečnikova zbirka) B-4, Karunova 4, tel. (+386) 1280 16 00, pz@

aml.si, www.aml.si. The Slovenian visionary architect Jože Plečnik lived in this house from 1921 until his death in 1957, making this brilliant monument to the great man and his work poignant for both its immediate connection with him as well as being the building in which he did most of his work, much of it on the actual building itself. Organised into both a living recreation of how and where Plečnik lived and a fascinating insight into his often revolutionary ideas, exhibits include recreations of everything from his kitchen, bedroom, bathroom and countless examples of original drawings and models. The museum can only be visited as part of a guided tour. Q Mon & Fri 10:00-15:00, Tues, Wed & Thu 10:00-18:00, Sat 09:00-15:00, Sun and holidays closed.There are only guided visits on the hour. Up to 7 visitors at a time allowed. Last tour is one hour before closing time. Admission €4/2.

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what to see Railway Museum (Železniški Muzej) B-1, Parmova

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December 2008 - January 2009

Better by design

remains of ancient Aemona, a Roman city built in 15AD. Several bits and pieces, gates, walls and pillars, can still be found scattered around town. The burial ground, along Slovenska, has a sarcophagu and a gleaming replica of the statue of a local man. Once protecting the city and counting over 26 towers, the Roman wall was built around 15AD - a job so well done that parts are still standing after nearly 2000 years along Mirje. Jože Plečnik had a go at restoring the ruins in the 1930s, adding height, gates and, surprisingly, a pyramid. The city museum has more about the Roman period.

etnomuz@etno-muzej.si, www.etno-muzej.si. The impressive Ethnographic Museum’s aims are to the link past and present, different cultures as well as nature and civilisation in creative and imaginative ways through the use of both exhibitions and workshops. Whatever the exhibitions on display, whether about Slovenian folk music, traditional horsehair sieves or any number of other topics, the clever use of materials, interactive displays and an excellent choice of English descriptions makes this place an essential place to visit. Find the entrance in the large square at the back of the building and be sure to take a look at the huge black and white photographs incorporated into the pillar designs in the main entrance hall. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €4.50/2.50 (adults/students).

Tobacco Museum (Tobačni Muzej) A-3, Tobačna 5, tel.

Stunning souvenirs, stylish shopping and local crafts on display

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Roman remains Beneath the streets of Ljubljana lie the

Slovene Ethnographic Museum (Etnografski Muzej) D-2, Metelkova 2, tel. (+386) 1300 87 00,

August - September 2009

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35, tel. (+386) 1291 26 41. Housed primarily in a wonderful semicircular brick locomotive shed, the current incarnation of this excellent museum dates from 2004 and offers an exceptional glimpse behind the history of the technology, culture and people of the nation’s railway heritage. In the shed find a chorusline of vast old steam locomotives, the oldest dating from 1861, whilst another building plays host to several rooms of signal equipment, railway eccentricities, uniforms, a recreation of old station master’s office and, up a wiggly spiral staircase, a small art gallery featuring the railway-related paintings of one of the museum’s former directors. Outside find even more exhibits from rusting trains to a small scale model of a viaduct. This highly recommended museum will keep boys of all ages occupied for a pleasant hour or more. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission €3/2.

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(+386) 1477 73 44, tobacna@tobacna.si, www.tobacna. si. The small and intriguing Tobacco Museum traces the origins of the deadly weed in Europe from the 16th century onwards. Exhibits include information about the history of the city’s tobacco factory, which opened in 1871 and in which building the museum is now housed, various machines for the production of cigarettes and a hauntingly lifelike display of two 19th-century women rolling the factory’s renowned Ljubljana Virginia cigars. The factory remains an important part of Slovenian history not least because it was here that the country’s women’s emancipation and rights were born. At its peak, the factory employed some 1,000 workers and was the third largest company in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Painfully difficult to find, look for the 1971 socialist-realist statue of a female tobacco worker and you’ll find the entrance behind her and to the right. Q Open every 1st Wed, 3rd Thu of the month 10:00-18:00.

Squares

Trg Republike (Republic Square) A/B-3. The political centre of modern Slovenia, this square houses the brutalist 1960 parliament building, two equally delicate office towers and the Cankarjev dom centre.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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BoveC Bled The splendour of Bled and its surroundings is often referred to as ‘the second Eden, full of charm and grace’ by writers, poets, rulers, presidents, foreigners that have passed through these lands and even the local folk that have resided here from more than 1000 years. Bled is considered the most beautiful alpine resort in the whole of Slovenia, and ranks high amongst winter resorts across the whole world. Who would have thought such a gem existed in one of Europe’s smallest countries?

Arriving by train

Bled has two train stations, but unfortunately neither is located in the centre of town. Over 20 trains a day from Ljubljana call at Lesce-Bled station which is on the main line but is several kilometres away, meaning you will either have a lengthy hike or short bus ride into town. The other station is Bled-Jezero a couple kilometres to the east, which sees up to five trains a day from the capital, however you have to transfer at Jesenice which can lead to a total journey time of almost 3 hours. Check out Slovenia Railways’ incredibly user-friendly website for a complete schedule and prices.

Arriving by car

Take the A2 highway northwest out of the city and follow the signs for Kranj. Bled is well signposted once you’re out in the countryside. Journey time is around 40 minuntes and it may get very crowded on Sundays in season at the end of highway.

Where to stay Enjoy a cruise on the water before winter comes

Arriving in Bled As little as an hour away from the capital tucked up close to the Austrian border, getting to Bled by train, bus or car is a relatively painless experience.

Arriving by Plane

Jože Pučnik Airport is located approximately half way between Ljubljana and Bled, and you can expect to pay around €45 for a taxi into town. Buses are considerably cheaper (€5.40, up to 19 connections on weekdays, but virtually none on weekends) although you have to transfer in Kranj. There are also up to six direct shuttles per day (€13). You can see the full schedules on the airport’s website.

Arriving by bus

Buses leave regularly from the main bus station in Ljubljana and take about 80 minutes to make the journey. Close to the town centre at the north-eastern tip of the lake, Bled’s dinky little bus station (avtobusno postajališče) doesn’t offer much in the way of excitement beyond a kiosk outside selling chocolate, soft drinks and cigarettes. Inside there’s a ticket office and free toilets. To get the city centre, walk south along Svobode until you hit the water.

Bled Tourist Office Follow the yellow footprints and be greeted by an aboveaverage collection of information, maps, guidebooks, Bled T-shirts and helpful, friendly staff. An excellent place to drop by for topping up on the latest information, there’s also a computer providing free internet access and a superb view of the lake.

Bled Tourist Office Svobode 10, tel. (+386) 4574 11 22, tdbled@telemach.net, www.bled.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.

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Bled provides plenty of choice for those wishing to make more of a day out of their visit to the town. As well as the hotel listings here, the tourist information people can provide the visitor with plenty of advice on the best accommodation options available. Be warned though that during the peak summer and winter seasons rooms fill up fast.

Cream of the Crop

Grand Hotel Toplice D-3, Cesta Svobode 12, tel. (+386) 4579 10 00, ghtoplice@hotelibled.com, www. hotel-toplice.si. Complete with its legendary thermal swimming pool that provides more than enough of a reason to stay here anyway, Toplice’s rather stark exterior betrays wealth of comfort and style inside its walls to make you want to stay here even more. The rooms and suites are all well designed, some of them exceedingly elegant, and all coming with en suite bathrooms, cable television, minibars and internet access. The lakeside location is arguably the best in Bled, with further attractions including three restaurants plus two bars, as well as excellent wellness and conference facilities. Q 87 rooms (single €140-180, double €158-220, suit €252-600). PHARUFLGKDXC hhhhh

Upmarket

Best Western Hotel Kompas D-3, Cankarjeva 2, tel.

(+386) 4578 21 00, info.kompas@kompas-lovec.eu, www.kompashotel.com. A distinctive Alpine-feel hotel with a big sloping roof, as the hotel owners say themselves, the place is within easy walking distance of the town centre yet provides a peaceful and relaxing atmosphere at the same time. Over 100 well appointed rooms and suites with either a park or lake view come complete with all the trimmings including cable television, minibar and internet connection. Other perks include a decent restaurant, relaxing bar, indoor swimming pool, Jacuzzi and excellent conference facilities for the discerning business traveller. Q 95 rooms (single €123137, double €135-155, suite €200-240). PTHA6U� FLGKDXCW hhhh

slovenia.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

bled Park Hotel Bled D-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. (+386)

4579 18 00, hotelpark@hotelibled.com. A huge waterside hotel from the golden age of Yugoslavia, with splendid balconies, nicely appointed rooms all coming with en suite facilities, an indoor heated pool and a definite emphasis on wellness and fitness in general. All rooms overlooking the lake come with air conditioning, plus there’s a nice choice of bars and restaurants. The hotel is famous for its kremšnita cream cakes, which it boasts it has now made over eight million of. Q 217 rooms (single €125-145, double €150-170, suit €230250). ARUFLGKDXCW hhhh

Ribno Izletniška 44, tel. (+386) 4578 31 00, fax (+386)

4578 32 00, info@hotel-ribno.si, www.hotel-ribno.si. Ribno is a stylish, up-market hotel in an unbeatable location directly by the Sava River with pristine rooms that cater for both families and business travelers with in-room internet connections. The surroundings are quiet and restful with tennis courts, a volleyball pitch and facilities for sport fishing and in the domains of the hotel you can experience the modern comfort of a wellness centre, a cosmetic parlour, an elegant restaurant and the hotel’s very own nightclub, Marilyn Monroe. A shuttle service is available to and from the centre of Bled. Q 61 rooms (singles €82-92, doubles 114-128, suites €134164). PTHAUGBKDW hhhh

Villa Prešeren D-2, Veslaška promenada 14, tel. (+386)

4575 25 10, fax (+386) 4575 25 19, vilaperseren@sportinaresorts.si, www.vilapreseren.si. Not being quite in the city centre comes with its advantages. This villa offers peace and quiet, fresh air, lake views and green surroundings with exquisite, post-modern rooms decorated with black and pink fancy wall paper, huge sofas and pillows that make you feel as though you’ve entered a lounge bar or something of the sort. The baths are an utter treat with a bubble massage mechanism that gives a good rubdown while you bathe in style. The terrace and on-site restaurant are absolutely stunning just steps away from the lake’s banks. A refreshing drink, morning cappuccino or an evening meal is an absolute pleasure amongst the beauty of the surroundings and the service is first-class. Q singles €99-112. doubles €136-154, suites €160-214). PJLGBW

Mid-Range

Astoria D-2, Prešernova 44, tel. (+386) 4579 44 13,

astoria@vgs-bled.si, www.hotelastoria-bled.com. Hotel Astoria’s exterior is decidedly of the bygone socialist era, but the interior has recently been renewed to bring it up to today’s basic standards for resort stay. The location is the key here, nearby you can take the foothpaths up to the castle and enjoy the views of the lake. Dinner is available at their restaurant, The Castle Bled, which is staffed by students from their nearby culinary school. Q 48 rooms (singles €69, doubles €109). PTJHAULEGBSW hhh

Lectar Inn Linhartov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 4537 48 00, fax

(+386) 4537 48 04, info@lectar.com, www.lectar.com. In the heart of the historical centre of Radovljica, the Lectar Inn provides a sleeping experience set deep in the past. Run for centuries by a local Slovenian family, who strive to retain the pure essence of Slovenian traditions and culture. All rooms have cosy medieval furnishings, and each bedroom is signposted (the signs are made from gingerbread!) by those that have resided within them centuries ago. The Lekarnar room (Doctor’s room) is a perfect for couples. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Penzion Lectar open every day from 09:00-22:00. Restaurant and Muzej Lectar open every day from 12:0022:00, Tuesday closed. July and August open every day. 9 double rooms €70 with Breakfast. Restaurant €7-13. TAUGKW hhhh

Traveller’s Haven D-2, Riklijeva 1, tel. (+386) 41 396

545, travellers-haven@t-2.net, www.travellers-haven. com. This lovely 20th century house turned youth-hostel is perfect for the backpacker or budget traveller seeking a cheap bunk-bed and a location that is close to the town, the lake and a supermarket. Guests can make use of the common room, kitchen, an internet-connected computer and a mashing machine. Q 6 rooms.

Union E-2, Ljubljanska 9, tel. (+386) 4578 01 50, info@ union-bled.com, www.union-bled.com. A smattering of basic apartments and suites for up to six people at the top of the hill, just a five-minute walk from the lake. Part of a complex that also includes a restaurant and bar, this excellent value accommodation option may not be pandering to the executive class of traveller, but you get what you pay for in this world. Q 3 rooms (singles €29-40, doubles €52-66). A6IFLGKW hhhh

Hostels

Youth Hostel Bledec C-2, Grajska 17, tel. (+386) 4574 52 50, fax (+386) 4574 52 51, bledec@mlino.si, www.youth-hostel-bledec.si. This place has the benefit of a bar which you don’t get at most youth hostels. All the rooms here have an en suite bathroom and accommodate between 3-4 people per room. It’s situated in a quiet part of town, but within walking distance to the castle, the lake and all other necessities a backpacker may need. The hostel offers breakfast for guests, use of the internet, a laundry service, rent-a-bike and a variety of tours and activities can be booked at reception. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. 13 rooms €18-26. ARULGBK

Budget

Garni Penzion Pletna C-4, Cesta Svobode 37, tel. (+386) 4457 43 70/(+386) 041 393 899, fax (+386) 4574 37 02, pletna@bled.net, www.sloveniaholidays. com/sobe-pletna. A welcoming family-owned establishment in the small lakeside village of Milno (only a mile away from the centre of Bled) provides an enjoyable stay full of activities at your very doorstep. Directly in front of the Pension, you will find a perfect spot for swimming out into the pristine lake on a summer’s day or you can opt to hire a boat, also called a ‘Pletna’ at the wharf to the lake’s little islet for just €10-15. In addition, it’s hard to miss the Pension’s etno shop, which sells distinctive Slovenian arts and crafts. Q singles €40, doubles €65, triples €85. TJA6LW hhh

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Bird’s eye view of Bled castle

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Bled

Where to eat

Chilli D-2, Svobode 9, tel./fax (+386) 4574 30 27. Just

like the owner will tell you: ‘we just want to make our customers happy’. This restaurant looks like it originally wanted to sell Mexican food and then realized that it wouldn’t make everyone happy like that, so then decided to offer more. But that’s exactly what’s so special about it. Even though it’s the only restaurant that offers Mexican food in Bled, you can still get Italian and, in general, international dishes here. Having been a professional athlete, the owner travelled extensively and is now obsessed with having the same customer service he has seen around the world, and it shows. He also plans to organize different live events during the summer. Try to spot the giant calculator behind the counter if you order a drink! QOpen 08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. AUGB

Gostilna Avsenik Begunje 21, Begunje, tel. (+386)

4533 34 02, www.avsenik.com. While Slovenian music might not be sweeping the global charts, you can find a few international celebrities by heading to this restaurant. The Avesnik Brothers are the world’s reining kings of “Oberkrainer” polka (with gold and platinum records abounding), and their centuries-old family restaurant, in their hometown of Begunje, draws crowds from around the world not only for its homemade regional food but also for its regular polka performances, dance floor, and yearly festival (see Culture and Events). Avsenik is a great way to encounter Slovenia’s particular form of Alpine culture, but if you’re looking for a place to dine and chat, this isn’t it; the music is extremely loud and the sound of accordion pierces through everything. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. (€6-15). TAULGBX

Gostilna, Pizzeria & Brewery Gala In Hraška 13,

Lesce, tel. (+386) 4531 60 00, fax (+386) 4531 60 01, galain.nida@gmail.com, www.gala-in.si. Tucked away outside Lesce, this complex is a pub, restaurant, pizzeria and brewery all housed under one roof. The environment here provides a perfect sanctuary for beer lovers gulping down pints of the establishment’s treasure: the ‘Gala In’ beer. The culinary concept of refined pub food and pizzas also melts down perfectly with a pint. A popular establishment amongst locals, who have acquired a habit of returning night after night. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. €6-18. TAUIGBK

Juliana D-3, Cesta Svobode 12, tel. (+386) 4579 10 00,

ghtoplice@hotelibled.com. Enjoy a top quality meal on a terrace with a stunning view at Juliana, where you can expect service to treat you like Prince Charles, who’s been sighted here before. It’s not cheap, so make your slow food last extra long. QOpen 18:00 - 23:00. PTALGBX

Labod D-2, Cesta Svobode 8a, tel. (+386) 4579 84 53,

info@restavracijalabod.si, www.restavracijalabod.si. This very upmarket restaurant adjoined to the Hotel Jelovica provides an International a-la-carte menu along with a fair pick of vegetarian friendly meals. Not a bad choice for a meal with business associates or a romantic lunch or dinner along its admirable lake-side garden, pleasantly adorned amongst green chestnut trees and fountains. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. (€13-20). PTJAULEBKSW

Lectar Inn Restaurant Linhartov Trg 2, Radovljica,

tel. (+386) 4537 48 00, fax (+386) 4537 48 04, info@ lectar.com, www.lectar.com. The restaurant provides a special romantic ambience, serving a selection of deliciously Slovene cuisine and wines: an impressive opportunity for any occasion, event or business social. Folk music and dancing

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PIZZERIA GALLUS

Location: TC BLED, Ljubljanska cesta 4, Open from 11.00 - 23.00, Saturday 11-24 www.pizzeriagallus.si

is arranged on most evenings for some light entertainment for the restaurant’s guests. The restaurant is adequately divided into several rooms which is perfect for those coming in larger gatherings, or with a family or just a couple. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue, Sun. July-August open every day. PTJA6UGBK

Pizzeria Gallus D-3, Ljubljanska 4, tel. (+386) 4574 32

99/(+386) 040 416 167, fax (+386) vinko.traven@siol. net, www.pizzeriagallus.si. Sure, you can come because of the view, which is beautiful. You might also come to enjoy the pizza, which is delicious and comes from a wood-fired oven. But the reason why we enjoy coming here the most is the lively service. Not only will you enjoy their traditional Tuscan food, but you will also be entertained by the waiters who will serve you kindly and take great pride in the restaurant’s food. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. PA

Pizzeria Rustika D-2, Riklijeva 13, tel. (+386) 4576 89

00, fax (+386) 4578 04 03, pizzeriarustika@gmail.com, www.pizzeria-rustika.com. Snug in between the winding streets behind St. Martin’s Church, resides a cosy and sympathetic pizza restaurant in which, those that may stumble upon it are rewarded with big portions of mouth-watering pizzas, salads and hamburgers. Its’ refreshing terrace and warm interior welcome you after a day’s walk around Lake Bled. Home delivery available. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 15:00 - 23:00. }€5-10. TAGBK

Vila Bled Restaurant B-4, Cesta Svobode 26, tel.

(+386) 4579 15 00, vilabled@hotelibled.com, www. vila-bled.com. The famous Vila Bled hotel restaurant, inside Tito’s beautiful former lakeside residence, offers both serene surroundings and top-notch cuisine. Known across the country for the excellent food and wine, it’s a smash hit for wedding parties and events. Normal guests can stroll around the grounds before sitting in the stately interior or on the terrace for their meal. QOpen 12:00 - 14:00; 18:00 - 22:00. (€19-30). TALEGBXW

Vila Prešeren D-2, Veslaška promenada 14, tel. (+386)

4575 25 10, fax (+386) 4575 25 19, vila.preseren@ siol.net, www.vilapreseren.si. Checking out the area’s popular tourist spots doesn’t get any easier than this. The big trendy terrace of this villa’s café and restaurant puts you inches from the lake where you can you take in all of Bled’s major attractions in one easy view, while sipping your cappuccino in hand. They also feature a full bistro style menu of continental and regional fare, and from dessert you’ll find a range of Bled’s famous creamy cakes. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 07:00 - 01:00. (€7,50-32). PTA6GBX� SW6GBXSW

bled.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

Bled NON-STOP

0 - 24

Casinos

Casino Tivoli Hraška 21, Lesce, tel. (+386) 4532

55 60, info@casino-tivoli.si, www.casino-tivoli.si. Out near the gas station and a small shopping center in nearby Lesce, Casino Tivoli sits as a glittering bastion of gambling for the truly devoted. There are no croupiers or card dealers here, no VIP for high rollers, just two levels of electronic roulette and electronic slot machines. The price of admission gets you two free glasses of beer or wine, and they keep a chilled self-serve buffet off to the side in case you find you’ve spent your grocery money. Q Open 24hrs. Admission €5 (includes gambling ticket and 2 drinks). PAULEGX

What to see Essential Bled

Bled Castle C-2, tel. (+386) 4572 97 82, blejski.grad@

zkbled.si, www.blejski-grad.si. Perched quite dramatically high up on a cliff overlooking the lake and town, Bled Castle is the stuff of children’s dreams. Built and added to haphazardly over the ages since conception around 1000AD, the castle is a pretty mash of styles. You can visit period rooms, a 16th century chapel, the cellar, herbal gallery and restaurant. Q Admission €7/3.50.

Lake Bled Tel. (+386) 41 42 71 55. Bled’s most fa-

Nightlife Bars & Clubs

Art cafe D-2, Cesta Svobode 7a, tel. (+386) 4574 34 11.

A popular social hangout for the younger clientele, especially students from the nearby IEDC Bled School of Management who like to stop by and mingle amongst themselves. When there’s an important sports event on TV, the place fills up fast and so do the glasses! The wide, open terrace that overlooks the lake also brings a steady flow of tourists. The gold-framed art work and old spiral staircase adds a touch of charm to its homely interior. Definitely, a satisfying choice for day and night time entertainment. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00, Fri 07:00 - 03:00, Sat 08:00 - 03:00, Sun 08:00 - 02:00. PJA6ILGBXW

Devil Bar Caffe D-2/3, Cesta Svobode 15, tel. (+386)

4574 21 10. Cheeky cavorting imps seducing naked women over the bar, organ pipes on the walls, Cuban cigars, toasted sandwiches et all. One of Bled’s most popular spots, not least for the magnificent view over the lake, packs punters in on two floors and a large terrace for daily lunch specials and heavy late-night drinking sessions. Q Open 09:00 - 24:00. JAB

Pub Bled D-3, Cesta Svobode 19a, tel. (+386) 4574 26

22. Bled’s top party place, with over a hundred mixed drinks and cocktails on the menu and DJs every night, it attracts a varied mix of tourists, students, weekend lovers and local party animals. There’s also a big screen TV that more often than not is tuned to some live sporting event, and if you manage to stop by in the morning for a glass of your preferred hang over remedy you can enjoy nice views of the castle and free wireless internet. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 03:00. PR6EGBXW

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

mus feature is the crystal-clear lake which has an island crowned by the 55-metre tower of the Baroque Church of the Assumption. The backdrop of mountains makes this view especially irresistable. Visitors can take a boat tour to the island (€12) on characteristic pletna boats, which include half an hour to wander around or visit the church. Boats leave from the Health Park, at Hotel Park and at the rowing centre.

Churches

Church of the Assumption B-3, Bled island. Sticking

out of the island in the middle of the lake, the Church of the Assumption has been much battered by earthquakes and lightning over the centuries. Several churches have occupied this prime location since one was first built here in the 12th century. The current incarnation is from the 17th century. Inside, the impressive altar and the last surviving frescoes from an earlier Gothic church are worth a look.

St. Martin’s Church D-2. A white neo-Gothic beauty

erected in 1905, St. Martin’s was designed by same architect who designed Vienna’s town hall, and it shows in the sheer verticality of the building. The church is surrounded by the walls which had to protect the earlier church from Ottoman incursions. The interior has frescoes from the late 1930s.

Museum

Lectar Inn Museum Linhartov Trg 2, tel. (+386) 4537

48 00, fax (+386) 4537 48 04, info@lectar.com, www. lectar.com. And last but by no means least, the Lectar’s very own living museum called ‘Lectarstvo’ which makes a traditional Slovene handicraft: gingerbread. The hospitable family, dressed day-to-day in medieval clothing, can give you a tour of the museum that uses tools dated back 100 years in the making of these unique gingerbread cakes and handicrafts. A perfect gift in true Slovenian style, for somebody back home. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Tue. July-August open every day.

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bled Bovec Still on the sunny side of the alps, Bovec is a real green piece of Europe, a must if you really want to feel sLOVEnia! Catchy official slogans aside, Slovenia’s supreme summer and winter sports town really offers a lot. Lying in the magnificent upper Soča valley in Northwestern Slovenia - an EU destination of excellence for 2008 - Bovec allows you to explore all the natural beauties of Triglav National Park. The town is a great base for summer activity holidays, hiking and mountain biking on land, paragliding from the surrounding alpine peaks through the air, or rafting and kayaking on the truly awesome turquoise waters of the river Soča. But perhaps the most popular time of year here is not the warm summer, but the winter ski season. The lifts to Kanin ski centre sit only half a kilometre from the centre of Bovec, making it a winter sports Mecca.

Arriving by bus

There’s a direct bus from Ljubljana every day (11:15 and 17:50 weekdays, 06:30 and 17:50 at weekends), and there are lots of international links to and from Ljubljana.

Arriving by train

Trains are quite tricky. The closest they get to Bovec is Most na Soči, approximately 40km to the south. From there you could take a taxi, but bear in mind the distance. Alternatively you could rent a bike from Tolmin (6km from Most na Soči) and cycle the rest of the way, if you’re feeling a little adventurous.

Where to stay Upmarket

Boka Pension Žaga, 5230 Bovec, tel. (+386) 40 85

65 11, boka@siol.net, www.boka-bovec.si. The word pension immediately strikes as inappropriate for this brandnew place, with its upmarket feeling, chic décor, a la carte restaurant and luxurious suites. It takes its name from the nearby Boka waterfall, which can be seen from the large terrace. Notably, there is also free unlimited internet (uncommon in these parts), an in-house sports/activity centre and shoe cleaning machines on every floor. Located on the main road between Kobarid and Bovec. Q Bar/restaurant open 06:00-23:00 Restaurant €5-13.60; doubles €42-60, suites €59-77. PHAILBKW hhhh

Hotel Alp Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 40, tel. (+386) 53 88

40 00, info@hotel-alp.si, www.alp-hotel.si. This comfortable and rather large hotel, has everything you would expect: a bar and restaurant, a large conference room, TVs and minibars in the rooms and sun terrace. It also has some things you wouldn’t: a mini-sauna village in relaxing surroundings (half price for guests at only €5 weekdays), massage, manicure and pedicure services and use of a nearby swimming pool at Hotel Kanin. It is located on the main square, right in the centre of Bovec. Q From €30 per person if booked in advance. PJHAULBKDC hhh

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Hotel Kanin Ledina 6, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 89 68

80, hotel.kanin@siol.net, www.hotel-kanin.com. The hotel shares its name with the local ski resort, just 1.5km away, reflecting a major source of its winter clientele. It is well established, and one of the finest hotels in Bovec - the other being Hotel Alp. Although the lobby looks a little dated, the rooms are recently renovated, and look very modern (no old tricks of only renovating the lobby here!). The view from the balcony makes the hair on your neck stand on end, as does the view from the heated pool and sauna/wellness centre. Q €49 per person. PJHALBKDC hhh

Pristava Lepena Lepena 2, Soča, tel. (+386) 53 88

99 00/(+386) 41 67 19 81, pristava.lepena@siol. net, www.pristava-lepena.com. This place is special. On arrival you are greeted by the famous Lipice horses and friendly mountain goats. Run as a hotel and horse-riding centre and taking the form of a typical alpine village, you can find pretty much everything in this perfect blend of modern and traditional. There’s even a sauna, fitness room and conference room within the beautiful log cabins, all amid the spectacular mountainous scenery. Located 9km from Bovec. Q €50-69 per person. HAIFLBKDCW hhhh

Mid-range

Motel Encijan Log pod Mangartom 31, tel. +386 53 84 51 30, anton.trstenjak@amis.net, www.encijan. com. Tired of civilisation? Then get away to the heart of Triglav National Park, near one of the highest peaks, Mangart (2678m), 11km north-west from Bovec. There you can go hiking, mountaineering, paragliding or mountain biking, all arranged by this sport/recreation resort. We especially like the location of this one for winter adventure holidays, being only 10-30minutes, by car, from no less than 3 ski centres in 3 different countries: Kanin, Slovenia, Arnoldstain, Austria, and Sella Nevea, Italy! Summer water-sports also available. Q €30 per person. THALBKDC

Guest Houses

Gostišče Vančar Čezsoča 43, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 89 60 76, info@penzionvancar.com, www.penzionvancar. com. This traditional but newly built guest house is modern and impressive, yet authentic alpine. It offers rooms, a restaurant and sports/adventure activities, such as rafting, canyoning and paragliding. The location is magnificent, sitting near the beautiful Soča River in a small village just 2km from Bovec. The food and drink is a blend of local and international: from trout, home-made ham and schnapps to pizza, schnitzel and Jack Daniels. For the kids they even have a ‘natural swimming pool’ outside. Q Restaurant: €4-9, Rooms: €22 per person. PTA6ULBKC

Apartments

Apartments Kaninska Vas Kaninska Vas 7, tel.

(+386) 53 89 63 33, tusi@siol.net, www.kaninska-vas. si. Most of this big range of alpine apartments are 3-star. They have lots of space in the centre, and a large flagship complex in Kaninska Vas, overlooking Bovec and nestled into the mountainside. The location of this one is especially good for mountain bikers, with the Kanin MTB Park being only a few minutes away. All the usual sporting activities are of course available, from rafting to tandem paragliding. Check out the special prices from September - December. Q Studio from €75 for two nights, up to €179 for 6 person apartment. JALBW

October - November 2009

BoveC

The Valleys of Inspiration, as we call the great nature area of Bovec, will give you strength and relaxation, for you body and soul. Beautiful pure nature, clean water, fresh air, high mountains, living river Soča, Triglav national park with authentic flowers and animals, will bring to you a real little wonderland. You really have to come and see, taste and feel if it is all true! Tourist Information Center Bovec Tel.:

+386 (0)5 38 96 444 +386 (0)5 38 41 919 Fax: +386 (0)5 38 96 445 Mobile: +386 (0)31 388 700 e-mail: info@bovec.si www.bovec.si

Bovec is Slovenia’s favorite active holiday destination with breathtaking mountains, great history and the famous Soča river. The Golf Course offers a challenge to all levels of golf and is aesthetically pleasing to play. The new Golf Club Bovec is situated under the Kanin Mountian in the Soča Valley the northeastan region of Slovenia. The Golf course is open to the public. The Golf Course has 9 holes with a Par of 36. It has five tee positions. The lenght of 9 holes is 3012 meters or 3294 yards. The Golf course is Pro-eco managed. For more information please contact the management: e-mail: info@golfbovec.si Golf Club Bovec and the Soča Valley is a must visit location. We offer you different golf packages with our golden partner hotel in Bovec, Hit Hotel Kanin: Hit Holidays - Hole in one package Welcome gift, 7 x bed and breakfast, inc. swimming pool, 1 x wellness, 3 x green fee Hit Holidays Golf Club Bovec, 7x pull car rent, free entrance to the Hit Casino Aurora & Perla Hit Holidays - Eagle package Welcome gift, 3 x bed and breakfast, inc. swimming pool, 1 x wellness, 2 x green fee Hit Holidays Golf Club Bovec, all days pull car rent, free entrance to the Hit Casino Aurora & Perla Hit Holidays - Birdie vikend package 2 x bed and breakfast, inc. swimming pool, 2 x green fee Hit Holidays Golf Club Bovec, all days pull car rent, free entrance to the Hit Casino Aurora More information on: www.golfbovec.si

Foto: Jani Peternelj, Jure Breceljnik, Arhiv LTO Bovec

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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BoveC Bovška Hiša Kot 2, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 88 60 32,

tment@bovec-sc.si, www.bovec-sc-si. Sharing the same owner as Bovec Šport Center, this place is a pair of bright and airy alpine apartments, cutely named Luka and Jakob. These guys, Luka and Jakob that is, sit in the old centre of town enjoying the copious nearby amenities: supermarket, newsagents, souvenir shop, bank, childrens playground and quite a few restaurants. The apartments have lots of personality, including cheeky kitchens, curious cable TV and amiable internet connections. Definitely worth asking for some kind of discount on sports activities if you’re staying here. Q €15 per person, sleeps 2-4 people. JW

Gotour Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 50, Bovec, tel. (+386) 05

38 96 36 6/(+386) 04 02 26 93 8, www.gotourbovec. com, gotour.bovec@siol.net. The primary occupation of this agency is to rent apartments. They have seven in total, all within the same block, smack in the central square, and all selfcontained (with kitchens, bathrooms, etc). All the delights of the surrounding countryside are within easy reach, especially watersports, mountain bike rental and sledging at Mangart (nearby mountain), which you can arrange in the same building.

Mrakič Apartments Dvor 53, Bovec, tel. (+386) 41

(aka Bovec). This campsite is both spacious (2 terraces) and well equipped (broadband, sauna, cable TV). There are lots of barbeque places for cooking and benches and tables for eating. Of course it also sits on the Soča river bank, and has a bridge for breathtaking views. Rooms are also available. Q Camping €6 per person, apartments €50. TLBDW

Pension and Camp Klin Lepena 1, Soča, tel. +386 53

88 95 13, kampklin@siol.net, www.sloveniaholidays. com/eng/camping-place-klin. Sitting right by the alpine river Lepenica in Triglav National Park, this place appeals to hikers, cyclists, fishermen and those looking to kayak. Kanin ski resort and Bovec are also close, at only 9km away. If you’re not the camping type, here you also have the option of a room. The freshly caught trout is a speciality in the restaurant, and there are also lots of tables and benches around the campsite for your own picnic. Q Camping €10 per person. ABKD

Sports & Activities Golf

Golf Bovec Podklopca 15, Bovec, tel. (+386) 40 38 22

32 91 74, apartmaji.mrakic@siol.net, www.mrakic.net. You’re spoilt for choice here for apartments, they are available just 300m from the Kanin ski lifts and also in the centre of Bovec, still less than a kilometre from the entrance to Kanin. They are very well equipped, with fully-fitted kitchens, and even dishwashers. Guests can expect a discount on sports activities and equipment rental, and there are also equipment storage facilities. Q 6 apartments €50-130, 30% more for stays of less than 3 nights. PJALW

29/(+386) 41 25 38 14, info@golfbovec.si, www.golfbovec.si. If you need to unwind a little after engaging in too many adrenaline charged adventure sports, or you’re just a secret golf addict, sneak off here for a sly round. There’s a nine-hole course and driving range, with five tee-off positions, all just a few kilometres from Bovec. As it’s run by the same holiday firm (Hit) as the Hotel Kanin, you can book fancy golfing packages with welcome gifts and wellness treatments. Prices are quite reasonable for Slovenia, especially given the setting, with weekday rounds starting at €25 for 9 holes. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00.

Camping

Sports Agencies

51 64 56 77, bardbedlamit@yahoo.com. Over the hills and far away sprung to mind when we arrived, no Led Zeppelin concerts around here though, just the unspoilt, amazing natural beauty of a Slovene national park. It’s situated close to a few campsites in Soča village (10km from Bovec), but also boasts wooden cabins at quite cheap prices (€45 for four people). Notably there’s also an ECO camp and children’s playground. Q (camping €8 per person, rooms €20 per person, bungalow €45). AL

84 55 04 5, alpin.action@siol.net, www.alpinaction.it. These friendly girls and guys offer the usual range of watersports: rafting, kayaking, hydro-speed and canyoning, plus some not so usual: ‘sit on top’ flat kayaking, tubing (rubber rings) and ‘hot dog’ (don’t be afraid, it’s just mini rafts for 2 people!). Their professional guides also provide lessons and courses, multi-sport weekly packages and horse-riding. In addition, there’s a kayak/outdoor shop and quad bike rental on-site. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 14:00 - 18:00.

Camp Korita Soča 38, tel. (+386) 53 88 93 22/(+386)

Camp Liza Vodenca 4, Bovec, info@camp-liza.com,

www.camp-liza.com. One of three family-run camps in the peaceful Vodenca Valley beside the Soča River, Liza is the only one where you can pay by credit card. That important point aside, there is also a bar and terrace, barbeque and sand volleyball court. It is the largest of the three camps, located 2km from Bovec, beside Kayak Camp Toni, and has a short path down to the turquoise river. Q 09:00-12:00, 16:0019:00 €10 per person, €8 for kids. TAB

Camp Polovnik Ledina 8, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 89 60

07/(+386) 31 34 44 17, kamp.polovnik@siol.net, www. kamp-polovnik.com. The best thing about this compact camp site is its handy location. If you’re arriving late it’s easy to find on the main road passing by Bovec, a five minute walk from the centre. Nearby there’s a large restaurant, pretty church and a sports/activity centre at the back. There are also lots of trees here to keep your tent cool in the hot summer sun and, of course, views of the spectacularly steep surrounding mountains. Q €5 per person + €1 tent or €3 caravan. A

Camp Soča Soča 8, tel. (+386) 53 88 93 18/(+386) 31

82 44 86, kamp.soca@siol.net. We like the feeling of being deep into the alps here, despite only being 9km from civilisation

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Alpin Action Trnovo ob Soči 26a, Srpenica, tel. +386 53

Bovec Rafting Team Mala vas 106, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 88 61 28, bovec.rafting.team@siol.net, www.bovec-rafting-team.com. Here we found yet another sports agency claiming to be the oldest in Bovec - there is some serious competition up here! A unique selling point of these guys is one of their winter activities: dogsledding, if you fancy feeling like Amundsen on his Antarctic quest (but just a little safer). They also offer guided biking tours (quite uncommon), the usual range of water-sports, plus paragliding, sky-diving and panoramic flights. Situated in Bovec, approximately 10minutes walk from the central square.

Bovec Šport Centre Kot 2, Bovec, tel. (+386) 53 88 60 32/(+386) 31 62 87 94, info@bovec-sc.si, www. bovec-sc.si. We like the open and quite spiritual director of this activity centre. He and his guides aim to offer a deeper connection and experience than that of the usual host/client relationship. A good choice for the inexperienced (and/or terrified), they have just introduced an easier-to-control inflatable kayak to the Soča. They tell us you can become at one with nature, both on water and on land. Rafting, kayaking, canyoning, hydrospeed, hiking, mountainbiking, caving and winter packages are all available. An office is also located in Boka Pension, between Kobarid and Bovec. October - November 2009

bovec

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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bovec Soča Rafting Trg Golobarskih Zrtev 14, Bovec, tel.

(+386) 41 72 44 72/(+386) 53 89 62 00, info@socarafting.si, www.socarafting.si. One of the leading sports and adventure agencies in the area and the oldest in Bovec, Soča Rafting offers activities directed by friendly local guides and equipment rental. They are open every day, all year round - unique, so they say. In summer they organise rafting, canyoning, kayaking, caving and mountain biking, and in winter ski lessons and courses and equipment rental. Everything is photographed and available for purchase at the end of the day. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00; 16:00 - 18:00.

Top Extreme Sports Centre Žaga 151, Srpenica,

tel. (+386) 41 62 06 36, info@top.si, www.top.si. This well-established sports activity agency were quick to tell us their unique selling points: the only one with a modern sports center by the river Šoca (questionable), dressing rooms at the start and end of your activity (so what), and who organises bungee jumping (that’s more like it!) The latter is a good point, if you want to see the turquoise Soča waters whilst hanging upside-down from a piece of elastic, and soiling yourself, then you’ve come to the right place! On a serious note, they offer a full range of summer (MarchOctober) water-sports, supervised by experienced guides, plus climbing, packages and accommodation.

Around Bovec

Kanin Perched high above Bovec, Kanin is Slovenia’s only high altitude (i.e. over 2000m) ski centre and boasts the country’s longest “winter” season, actually running all the way from November until well into spring and the May

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national holidays. Previously a medium sized resort with 15km of ski runs, this year Kanin is joined with a new lift to the Sella Nevea ski centre across the border in Italy, to make it Slovenia’s only transnational resort. With a good range of slopes it will appeal to everyone from complete beginners to advanced skiers and boarders. If that’s not enough for you, guests with a six-day Kanin pass can also ski in a third country for two days, at the Arnoldstein centre in Austria. There are off piste opportunities at Kanin, but we wouldn’t recommend this without an experienced guide. The imposing peaks of the mountain range overlook Bovec and the truly magnificent Soča Valley, with its famous emerald river. The Soča Valley was even featured in a Hollywood blockbuster, The Chronicles or Narnia. The panorama from Kanin extends all the way from the eastern Julian alps to Trieste, the mouth of the Soča River and the Adriatic sea, the proximity of which ensures a tangible mix between crisp alpine air and Mediterranean-like warm breezes. In the spring this great combination really blossoms, when you can you can ski in the morning, then sunbathe on the snowbeach, or trek in the warm lush valley in the afternoon. It even makes skiing in a t-shirt a real possibility! Summertime attracts hikers, climbers, paragliders and mountain bikers - the latter flocking to the 4.5km long and 600m high Kanin MTB park. There are also deep shafts for cavers, the biggest of which, Vrtoglavica Jama, has the longest vertical drop in the world (603m). Kanin is reached by way of a massive cable car, ascending from 436m to 2,200m above sea level it’s an adventure in itself, as you can witness the vast change in flora and fauna in just a few minutes - it has to be seen to be believed.

October - November 2009

Wine tastinG in Brda

Lunch on the terrace at Dobrovo Castle

Grad Dobrovo Grajska 10, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel. (+386) 53 95 95 86/(+386) 51 81 64 70. If you’ve never been to Brda before, Dobrovo Castle is a logical first stop on your tour. The region’s well-stocked and extremely helpful tourist information centre is located in the courtyard, and inside there’s a museum, art gallery and restaurant. The menu - in Slovene, Italian and German, but not English - fits on two pages, but the prices are reasonable, the servings ample and the views from the back terrace postcard worthy. After (or in lieu of) you meal, don’t forget to stop by the wine bar in the cellar. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00, Sat 19:00 - 22:00.

Brda Occupying 72km² of rolling hills between the Soča

Klinec Homestead Medana 20, Dobrovo v Brdih, tel.

River and Italian border, Brda is one of Slovenia’s foremost wine-growing areas and only an hour’s drive from Ljubljana. Often described as a miniature version of Tuscany, every hill seems to be topped with a large church (there are actually 30 in all) surrounded by a charming little village, while the hillsides and valleys in between are blanketed with vineyards, orchards and winding country roads. Aside from a few larger estates and one cooperative, most of the vineyards are smaller family-run operations, and almost all offer some combination of wine tastings, tours, meals, accommodation and of course wine sales. The region is also known for its traditional Italian-influenced cuisine, and a trip to Brda without enjoying a slow multi-course meal on a terrace overlooking the vineyards almost defeats the entire purpose. The tourist information office at Dobrovo Castle is well-stocked with multi-lingual maps, brochures and other literature, and a great place to start for first-time visitors.

(+386) 53 95 94 08/(+386) 31 33 94 63, nejkak@yahoo.com, klinec.si. More than just a winery or tourist farm, the Klinec homestead is a truly one of a kind place. The small family-run operation produces a range of exquisite organic wines and serves an array of mouth-watering seasonal dishes following traditional recipes and cooking methods of the Brda region. They also play a central role in Medana’s thriving arts scene, hosting well-known painters and sculptors for a weeklong festival every October, as well as various jazz concerts, film viewings and poetry readings throughout the year. Q Open Fri 19:00-23:00, Sat 12:00-15:00 & 19:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-16:00 and Mon-Thu by arrangement.

Simčič (Karol & Igor & Marijan) Hum 8, Kojsko,

tel. (+386) 53 04 65 26, (+386) 53 04 65 27, info@ vinosimcic.si, www.vinosimcic.si. First appearing in the local land registry back in the 19th century and covering some 32 hectares of terraced vineyards today, Vrhunska Vina Simčič is one of the oldest and largest wineries in Brda. They produce a wide variety of white and red wines including Rebula, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay and Sauvignon among the former and Merlot, Chabernet Sauvignon and Refošk (the so-called King of Reds) among the latter. Tours and tastings are available for both individuals and larger groups, but it’s always best to call at least a few days in advance to make arrangements. QClosed Sun.

Vinska Klet Goriška Brda Zadružna 9, Dobrovo,

Next year’s wine on the way to the winery

Wineries Belica Medana 32, Dobrovo (+386) 53 04 21 04 www.belica.net

Šibau Fojana 15, Dobrovo (+386) 53 04 50 62 www.sibau.si

Čarga 1767 Pristavo 2, Dobrovo (+386) 53 95 94 96 www.carga1767.si

Ščurek Plešivo 44, Dobrovo (+386) 53 04 50 21 www.scurek.com

Vini Franko Snežatno 4, Kojsko (+386) 53 95 92 07 www.franko.si

Štekar Snežatno 26a, Kojsko (+386) 53 04 65 40 www.stekar.si

Movia Ceglo 18, Dobrovo (+386) 53 95 95 19 www.movia.si

Valentinčič Podsabotin 48 (+386) 53 04 65 78 www.valentincic.si

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

tel. +386 5 33 10 100, fax +386 5 33 10 109, info@ klet-brda.si, www.klet-brda.com. This cooperative is the region’s largest wine producer and also boasts the country’s largest wine cellar, with a capacity of 18 million litres. Since its formation back in 1922, the cooperative has been the driving force behind Goriška Brda’s viticulture tradition, and has also taken an active role in promoting the region throughout Slovenia and abroad. Highly educational tours of the cellar along with wine tastings start at only €2.50 per person. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.

An afternoon visit to Simčič Winery

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Shopping One of the great things about this city is the fact that you can shop old fashioned the way: strolling the city centre’s streets, ducking in and out of any number of high street stores, local brands and cute little boutiques. A number of stores have locations on the streets that abut the river, making this - if we’re honest- one of our fave shopping cities in Europe. The main shopping streets in the centre of the city are uls. Breg, Zidovska, Hribarevo and Stari Trg. There are also plenty of stores on central Slovenska Cesta, and in the grid of streets between Slovenska Cesta and the river, and Mestni Trg on the opposite bank. Indeed, Mestni Trg is a cracking place to shop, with great little boutiques standing side by side next to cafés, bars and restaurants; shop, then chill out! If you like want a mall experience however, head out to BTC City, a couple of kilometers from the city centre on the road to Maribor. Besides an enormous mall (City Park) there are also a number of warehouse-like outlets stores, as well as a water park and entertainment city.

Books

Antikvariat B-3/4, Gallusovo Nabrežje 21, tel. (+386)

1425 40 07. A small selection of second-hand books including a few novels in English. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Mladinska Knjiga Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1241 36 80, konzorcij@mk-trgovina.si, www.mladinska.com. The flagship store of Slovenia’s largest book retailer, it has by far the largest selection of English language books in the country including a fairly impressive travel section. There’s usually at least one table of heavily discounted tomes if you’d like to pick up something cheap to read and aren’t too picky. They also operate smaller shops on seemingly every other street in Ljubljana, which mostly stock stationery supplies. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Oxford Center C-3, Kopitarjeva 2, tel. (+386) 1360 37 89, knjigarna.oxford@mk-trgovina.si. Lots of novels in English, plus a wide selection of dictionaries, maps and guidebooks. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Cosmetics

Fresh Line B-2, Čopova 4, www.freshline.gr. Homemade

cosmetics, from soap that looks good enough to eat to bath bombs. For businessmen staying at the Slon a few doors away this is the perfect place to dash before checking out to get the missus that last-minute present. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. L’Occitane Mestni Trg 7 / Ljubljanske Brigade 33 / Citypark, tel. (+386) 1426 03 72, www.loccitane.si. Named for an ancient province that once covered a wide swath of Mediterranean Europe, this well-known international retailer of body, face and home products currently has ten stores in Slovenia, three of which are located in Ljubljana. The environmentally-conscious company aims to preserve the natural traditions of the Mediterranean region - especially those of Provence, France where it was founded some thirty years ago - and each product in its extensive range comes with a unique true story. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Melvita Stari Trg 18, www.melvita.com. Melvita is one of France’s leading organic cosmetics brands, which has been creating natural, high-quality products for more than a quarter century. Their product range includes a wide selection of natural ingredients sourced from around the world, which are produced using mostly organic farming methods. In addition to their shop in Ljubljana’s old town they also have a location at the Europark shopping centre in Maribor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

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October - November 2009

Shopping

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Fair Trade

3 Muhe B-3, Stari Trg 30, tel. (+386) 1421 07 15, 3muhe@umanotera.org, www.3muhe.si. Hippie colours, funky clothes, wooden statues, bongos and incense sticks are all on display at 3 Muhe, which is fair trade certified. There is always a chance of finding something unique to take back home with you, however nothing is the least bit Slovenian, so souvenir shoppers should probably look elsewhere. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Fashion

69 Slam Gallusova 7, tel. (+386) 31 531 900,

www.69slam.si/. The Ljubljana outlet of this trendy international underwear and swimwear brand is somewhat hidden away on a quieter stretch of the riverside, which is a bit ironic given that the designs inside are about as loud as you’re likely to find anywhere. If it’s any indicator of the store’s popularity amongst the locals, its Facebook page is fast approaching 1,000 fans. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Boutique Lacoste B-2, Dalmatinova 10, tel. (+386) 1431 50 68, info@florida-wellness.si, www.florida-wellness.si. There may not be any crocodiles in the Ljubljanica, but there are plenty in this Lacoste boutique. Find a massive range of gear from the French casual specialists, from the classic polo shirt to footwear. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun. Butik La Vision C-2, Prečna ul. 4, tel. (+386) 1232 16 80, info@la-vision.net. When I first heard about this place two things happened: I realized I needed a helpful female fashion expert and I immediately thought I’d feel like Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman with older women wondering if we could really afford their precious garments. My preconcep-

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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tion was completely wrong. The tiara-wearing clerk was attentive, showed great style herself and lacked any hint of condescending attitude. According to my expert consultant the items on display were designer labels at very good prices, considering what you’re getting. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Dolce & Gabbana Outlet Cankarjeva 10. With its odd basement location, limited working hours and a sign reading “For members only” out front, we were surprised not to be asked for a password before being let in. However, once inside we were well taken care of. Definitely a unique shopping experience. QOpen 16:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Emporium Letališka 3 (BTC), tel. (+386) 15 84 48 00, info@emporium.si, www.emporium.si. This huge fashion house in the southwest corner of BTC has aisle after aisle of name-brand designer clothes for men, women and children at discount prices. With well over 100 different luxury brands to peruse they’ve been thoughtful enough to also include a café to rest weary legs and reload on caffeine. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00. Flat C-2, Miklošičeva 18, tel. (+386) 1 2322055/(+386) 1 2322056, www.flat.si. Sprouting creativity and a fresh new concept through the creation of innovative furniture and accessories for home or office. Browse through the selection of incredibly large wall clocks, hand crafted and painted bed side tables and hanging chairs made of bamboo. A unique, modern and humorous collection for a post-modern home. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Furla B-3, Mestni Trg 17, tel. (+386) 59 054 980, www. furla.com. Now this is a nice place. Handbags and coffee, or coffee and handbags. Equal amount of space is given other to both of these pursuits. Inside the café area has a great mini-library of books on fashion, so if you can’t afford one of the handbags you can at least read about people who can. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping Kipling Store B-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 1251 10 10. Fine,

mainly leather, goods (luggage, handbags, purses) for ladies who lunch. Besides the headline leather there are also big print bags, which, as its summer in Slovenia, feature something of a nautical theme. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Lili in Roza B-3, Stari trg 30, tel. (+386) 1425 30 50. Just one street away from the river in the old town, Lili in Roza is the only clothing store in the city to specialize in Oilily products. The staff is pleasant and helpful, even if they cram the shelves with a little too much merchandise. Dealing exclusively in women’s and children’s clothing, this little shop is a great place to pick up something for the kids, then take them for an ice cream right next door. Mandarina Duck B-3, Wolfova ulica 1, tel. (+386) 1251 10 10. Exquisite handbags and leather goods for the glitterati. Look out for the trademark wooden ducks in the window: alas they are not for sale. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Marella A/B-3, Slovenska 28, tel. (+386) 1426 92 44, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. A slightly less expensive alternative to its upmarket sister, Max Mara, this spacious newly-renovated boutique on the city’s main thoroughfare always offers a fresh diversified collection of contemporary women’s wear. Mediterranean white is the dominant colour of the Spring/Summer ‘09 collection, which hails the triumphant return of sophistication while emphasizing the seductive powers of simplicity. Q Open 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:30 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Max Mara B-2, Miklošičeva 6, tel. (+386) 1426 58 80, info@morris.si, www.morris.si. Located opposite the Grand Hotel Union just steps away from the city’s main square, this is the well-known Italian fashion group’s Slovenian flagship. Of course elegant Italian-made couture doesn’t come cheap, so you might want to start thinking now about how you can claim that must-have summer dress as a business expense. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Midas B-2, Ajdovščina 3, tel. (+386) 13 00 46 00, info@midas.si, www.midas.si. When Midas opened in October 2007 Ljubljana let out a sigh of relief. Finally the top international brands were available in Slovenia. Now you can find the latest collections from houses such as Giorgio Armani, Blumarine and Givenchy to the more fashion collections of Marc by Marc Jacobs, McQ by Alexander McQueen and See by Chloe. In Midas you can fully immerse yourself in your favorite brand from underwear, clothes, shoes, bags, accessories, sunglasses and perfumes. Q Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Peko Miklošičeva 14, tel. (+386) 59 089 068, ljubljana. miklosiceva@peko.si, www.peko.si. This new and nicely laid out shoe shop has everything for the feet, from flash trainers to leather boots to handmade Italian loafers, with stockings in stock as well. And because a new pair of shoes needs a new accessory to go with them, Peko stocks a range of handbags as well. So if you break a heel on the cobblestones or just feel the need for some retail therapy pop into Peko to invigorate your soles and your soul.

Food & Drink

Gaj Zdravja B/C-3/4, Gornji Trg 17, tel. (+386) 1423

42 52. A small organic supermarket in the old town. Everything from peanut butter to cabbages to tinned baby food is on offer. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Koželj B-3, Dvorni Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1251 36 44, www.kozelj.si. Somewhere in the region of 85% Sloveniangrown and -produced wine, plus reds, whites and rosés from around the world. The gregarious chap who runs the place is an expert and will help you through the minefield of local plonk. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

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October - November 2009

shoppinG finishing touches when we visited in late July, but we liked what we saw. Rustika C-3, Ljubljanski Grad (Ljubljana Castle)/(+386) 031 38 32 47. Everything from ghastly ceramic dragons to traditional paintings on glass to wooden spoons to jewellery inside the castle’s very own little gift shop. They also have a shop in the center (Stritarjeva 9, B-3) Q Ljubljana castle: daily: 09:00-20:00 (in the winter 10:0019:00). In the centre: Mo.-Fr.: 09:00-20:00, Sa.: 10:00-14:00 , 15:00-19:00, Su.: 10:00-14:00 Trgovina Ika C-3, Ciril-Metodov Trg 13, tel. (+386) 1 232 17 43, info@trgovina-ika.si, www.trgovina-ika.si. RoIka puts the creativity of local Slovene artists and fashion designers in the forefront of its shelves, exhibiting a wonderful selection of products such as paintings, ceramics, jewellery and fashion. You can pick up great souvenirs here as a lot of the products represent the beauty of Ljubljana in artistic forms, or if you’re looking for a unique garment or piece of art, you’ve come to the right place. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00, 15:00-18:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.

Home

Aqua Šmartinska 152 (BTC), tel. (+ 386) 15 85 22 95,

info@aquamaritime.si, www.aquamaritime.si. A difficult place to categorise as their products all share a maritime theme, but otherwise run the gamut from swimsuits and sandals to tea pots and cutlery to pencil holders and handbags. Luckily their website is well-designed (and in English) so you can check out their entire collection before visiting. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

Markets Oliviers&Co B-2, Slovenska 46, tel. (+386) 1232 22

92, www.oliviers-co.com. Fine imported delicacies hard to find elsewhere in Ljubljana. Only the best mustards, pastas, pate and sauces from around the world are on sale here. It smells great and it’s difficult not to spend a fortune. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Čokoladnica Cukrček B-3, Mestni Trg 11, tel. (+386)

1519 92 86, info@benedict.si, www.cukrcek.si. A charming, family-run business with three shops in the city, Čokoladnica Cukrček has been delighting adults and making children happily sick for a decade and a half. Among the many fine examples of chocolate for sale include special Ljubljana dragons in souvenir wooden boxes, fruit covered in chocolate and even chocolate flavoured with salt. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Ljubljanček C-2, Miklošičeva 1, (Grand Hotel Union), tel. (+386) 59 0 25 727, dusan.orel@amis.net. Attached to Grand Union Hotel, in Ljubljancek you can take a look through souvenirs of plates, photos, art and gadgets in relation to the town of Ljubljana. It is worth stopping by if you’re looking to buy souvenirs and gifts for your family back home. QOpen 08:00 - 14:00, 15:00-19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00, 14:00-18:00, Sun 08:00 - 12:00. Made in Slovenia Slovenska 23, tel. (+386) 51 228 249, info@madeinslovenia.net, www.madeinslovenia. net/. These guys have been selling exclusively Slovenian produced goods on the web for over three years now, but have only recently decided to get into the bricks and mortar trade. Beyond the usual gifts and souvenirs they also carry original art work, hand-made jewellery, contemporary music and of course hemp rolling papers. Their small shop in the arcade opposite Kongresni Trg was still undergoing some

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

BTC Market J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 14 56. A classic food produce market, modernised and brought up to date by the large BTC group. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun. Central Market (Glavna tržnica) C-3, , tel. (+386) 1300 12 00, info@lj-trznice.si. Food and local produce in a covered space and an open market square just northeast of the Dragon Bridge. Flea Market C-3, Cankarjevo Nabrežje. Held every Sunday morning along the riverside on and around Cobbler’s Bridge, find an extraordinary range of antique goods and brica-brac from stamps to sofas. Q Open Sun 08:00-14:00.

Shopping centres Shopping centres are not hard to find in Ljubljana, but most of the big department stores and supermarkets are just out of town and are best found by bus or taxi.

BTC City J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1585 22 22, info@btc.si, www.btc-city.com. The biggest thing of its kind in the country, the positively humungous BTC features not only some 450 shops selling everything you could possibly imagine, but also boasts restaurants galore, bars, a post office, multiplex cinema, indoor go-cart racing, a comedy theatre, billiards, volleyball courts, an enormous water park, conference facilities and its very own business district housing some of the best known local and international companies. There’s free parking for more than 8,500 vehicles too, all just a couple of kilometres out of the centre of the city in the general direction of Maribor. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun.

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Shopping Citypark J-2, Šmartinska 152g, tel. (+386) 1587 30 50,

info@citypark.si, www.citypark.si. City Park is Ljubljana’s biggest shopping centre, and the only place in the city to find everything you want under one roof. Besides the massive variety of stores (every major high street brand is here) there is a terrific choice of places to eat: most of the restaurants 100 here are far better than your shopping mall average. There’s parking for all, and so big is this place that even on the busiest9of5weekends it never feels opressively full. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Maxi Market B-3, Trg Republike 1, tel. (+386) 1476 68 774, 5 info@maxi.si, www.maxi.si. The quintessential Yugoslavian shopping centre experience, dating from 1971 and brought slightly up to date but still retaining most of its original exterior charm. Maxi Market is perhaps the best one-stop-shop experience in the city centre. As well as a fairly good selection of clothes shops, it also has a number of other shopping surprises 5 as a handful of interesting bars and cafés. QOpen as 2well 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. M Center tehnike in gradnje Črnuče H-1, K sejmišču 32,5 tel. (+386) 1560 61 00, info@mercator.si, www. mercator.si. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Mercator Center Ljubljana H-1, Cesta Ljubljanske 0 Brigade 33, tel. (+386) 1513 99 52, info@mercator.si, www.mercator.si. A huge, modern shopping centre with plenty of underground parking. Find all your favourite shops in here plus several restaurants and even some banks. In the north of the city, 15 minutes from the centre. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Nama B-2, Tomšičeva 1, tel. (+386) 1425 83 00, www. nama.si. Just southwest of the Slon hotel, this well established department store provides several floors of clothing for men and women, plus household items and somewhere to eat in the basement. QOpen 08:30 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Supernova J-3, Jurčkova 223, tel. (+386) 1428 88 83, info@supernova.si, www.supernova.si. Ljubljana’s newest shopping centre is located on the outskirts of the city in Rudnik, and offers plenty of space to leave your car while you go enjoy spending your hard-earned cash. Check out the all-you-can-eat sushi place, which is great value for your money. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00.

00 5 5

Sports & Recreation

Intersport B-3, Šubičeva 2, tel. (+386) 1242 77 57,

intersport@mercator.si, www.intersport.si. Everything you need from table tennis balls to skis. Sports fashion too. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 1 0 0 Yachting B-3, Mestni Trg 25, tel. (+386) 590 Marina 38360. Everything, from sou’westers to sweaters, a yachtsman could need, and a few things he might not. Marina is a 9 5for sailors who actually go sailing; this is Slovenia after shop all, and the whole country appears to own a boat. Patrick Sport d.o.o. H-2, Celovška cesta 34, tel. (+386) 75 1439 10 15. Whether you are skier, you love hiking or any of the sport activities that are popular in Slovenia, you should check out this specialised store. A small sporting goods store with a wide selection of equipment for various activities. They concentrate on brands of very high quality like the Kelme brand of football apparel and Hi-Tech gear for the outdoorsy types. 25 QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Rogo Sport D-2/3, Trubarjeva 76, tel. (+386) 1430 54 10.5A small shop at the far western end of the street providing a limited choice of new bicycles, spare parts and full service options. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. 0 Seaway B-3, Igriška 12, tel. (+386) 1425 44 13, www. aquas.si. Everything you could possible need before heading out sailing or fishing. From the latest Helly Hansen sailing fashions to the latest in harpoons and powerful distress flares. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

00 5 5

Ljubljana I n y oIn u rYour p o Pocket cket september

60x185mm

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

www.cukrcek.si A rich selection of homemade chocolates, pralines and chocholate gifts.

CukrÄ?ek Chocolate Shop, PasaĹža NebotiÄ?nika, Mestni trg 11

Mail & phones Postal rates Slovenia Abroad

Letters <20g € 0.24 € 0.45

Postcards € 0.20 € 0.40

Express mail

DHL Špruha 19, Trzin, tel. (+386) 1588 78 00, www.dhl. si. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. FedEx J-2, Ob Železnici 14, tel. (+386) 1547 33 86. QOpen 08:30 - 15:30. Closed Sat, Sun. Kurirček , tel. (+386) 80 1881/(+386) 051 444 555, narocila@kurircek.si, www.kurircek.si. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Tine Express J-1, Ulica Nadgoriških Borcev 34, tel. (+386) 156 17 000, www.tine.si. QOpen 08:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. TNT Express J-2, Šmartinska 152, tel. (+386) 1587 83 00, info@tnt.si, www.tnt.si. QOpen 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. UPS Intereuropa Ljubljana Airport, tel. (+386) 42 81 12 00, www.ups-slovenia.com. QOpen 07:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Laptop login Travellers can easily hook up to Slovenia’s wifi network by surfing to www.neowlan.net; there are hotspots allover the country, and payment is by prepaid NeoWLAN cards, for sale at kiosks and post offices, or by credit card. Charges are €3 per half hour, €9 per 2 hours or €15-19 per 24 hours. With a local Mobitel SIM card you can also connect via your mobile, charged at €0.21 per 5 minutes. Many hotels offer free wifi for their guests, but there’s also an number of free public wifi locations in Ljubljana, including at the airport and in the Konzorcij bookshop (Slovenska 29). See www.hotspot-locations.com for a full list of paid and unpaid hotspots.

Express mail

City codes When calling from abroad, prefix with +386 and drop the zero. Celje 03 Murska Sobota 02 Koper 05 Nova Gorica 05 Kranj 04 Novo mesto 07 Krško 07 Postojna 05 Ljubljana 01 Ravne na Koroškem 02 Maribor 02 Trbovlje 03

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Post Efficient and affordable, there’s little chance of your mail getting lost.

Main post office (Glavna pošta) B-2, Slovenska 32, tel. (+386) 1243 19 60, www.posta.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Public internet access Internet cafés and similar ventures.

Drog-Art C-2, Kolodvorska 20, tel. (+386) 1439 72 70. Internet access for €1,67 per hour. Q Open Tue 15:00-18:00,

Thu 09:00-12:00.

Oton Zupancic Library C-1, Train Station,Trg OF 10,

tel. (+386) 129 123 96, kolodvor@koz.si, www.koz. si. Internet access for €2/hour in the train station library. Become a member (€12,50) and it’s free. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Xplorer C-3, Petkovškovo Nabrežje 23, tel. (+386) 1430 19 91. Ten machines and a fridge full of cold drinks. Access for €4 per hour, €2.40 per hour if you buy a 5-hour voucher.

Public telephones Telekom Slovenije has card phones with English-language instructions dotted all over Slovenia. Phone cards are for sale at post offices and kiosks, and are available in four flavours: €2.92, €4.18, €7.09 and €14.61.

Telephone calls To make a call within Slovenia, dial the two-digit city code (if you are not in that city), or the mobile phone code, followed by the 7-digit subscriber’s number. From local mobile phones, the city code always needs to be dialled. To call to Slovenia, dial the international access code, the country code 386, the city code without the zero and the subscriber’s number. To call abroad, dial + followed by the country code, the city code and the subscriber’s number.

Country codes Albania Australia Austria Belarus Belgium Bosnia-Herz. Bulgaria Croatia Czech Rep. Denmark Estonia Finland France Germany

355 61 43 375 32 387 359 385 420 45 372 358 33 49

Greece Hungary Ireland Israel Italy Japan Kosovo Latvia Lithuania Macedonia Moldova Montenegro Netherlands Norway

30 36 353 972 39 81 381 371 370 389 373 381 31 47

Poland Portugal Romania Russia Serbia Slovakia Slovenia Spain Sweden Switzerland Turkey UK Ukraine USA

48 351 40 7 381 421 386 34 46 41 90 44 380 1

slovenia.inyourpocket.com October - November 2009

Lifestyle

Beauty & Wellness

CHAOTHAI masaže za boljše počutje F-3, Jana

Hairdressers

Mič Styling B-3, Kongresni Trg 4, tel. (+386) 1241 40 40, www.micstyling.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sat

Husa 3, tel. (+386) 40 83 73 63, chaothai.si@gmail. com, www.chaothai.si. Q Open 10:00 - 22:00. Sense Welness Club B/C-3, Dunajska 154, tel. (+386) 1588 2600/(+386) 030 388 388, administration.ljubljana@austria-trend.at, www.sense-club.com. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Sončni studio body line C-3, Poljanska cesta 15, tel. (+386) 40 780 036. Sončni studio Sun vision J-2, Nove Fužine 47, tel. (+386) 40 165 031, info@bodyline.si, www.bodyline. si/. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 15:00 - 21:00.

225, tel. (+386) 1428 98 98, info@simple.si, www. simple.si. QOpen 8:30 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Simple, Ljubljana SUPERNOVA J-3, Jurčkova cesta 223, tel. (+386) 1427 40 98, www.simple.si. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Studio Christian B-2, Vošnjakova 1, tel. (+386) 41 98 77 17. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Clinics

Language courses

(+386) 1472 37 00, www.zd-lj.si. Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina H-2, Rožna dolina IV/45, tel. (+386) 1477 94 00, www.kirurski-sanatorij.si. University Medical Centre Ljubljana D-2, Zaloška 2, tel. (+386) 1522 50 50, info@kclj.si, www2.kclj.si.

info@ars-linguae.com, www.ars-linguae.com. Much H-3, Koprska 94, tel. (+386) 1423 78 60, darja. habjanic@much.si, www.much.si.

Health Centre Metelkova D-2, Metelkova 9, tel.

Dry cleaners

Chemo Express B-3, Wolfova 12, tel. (+386) 1251 44 04. QOpen 07:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Femiks C-2, Kotnikova 18, tel. (+386) 1230 18 20, femiks@amis.net. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Labod H-1, Cesta Ljubljanske Brigade 33, tel. (+386) 1518 43 26, www.cistilnica-labod.si. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Mehurček Viška 54, tel. (+386) 1256 77 08, mewww.mehurcek.si. QOpen 08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.

Simple, Ljubljana E.Leclerc J-3, Jurčkova cesta

Ars Linguae C-1, Dunajska 10, tel. (+386) 1300 27 11,

Opticians

Mestna optika B-3, Kongresni Trg 9, tel. (+386)

1251 41 56, matija.kopac@mestna-optika.si, www. mestna-optika.si. Q Open 08:30 - 20:00, Sat 08:30 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Optika FELIKS A-3, Igriška 14, tel. (+386) 1425 00 02/(+386) 040 206 070, info@optikafeliks.com, www. optikafeliks.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun. Optika Zajec B-2, Puharjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1252 72 82, info@zajec-optika.si, www.zajec-optika.si. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

BUSINESS Banks

Abanka B-2, Slovenska 50, tel. (+386) 1300 15 00. Bank Of Slovenia B-2, Slovenska 35, tel. (+386) 1471 90 00.

Deželna Banka Slovenije C-2, Kolodvorska 9, tel. (+386) 1472 71 00.

Hypo Group Alpe Adria B-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1580 41 40.

Nova Ljubljanska Banka B-3, Trg Republike 2, tel. (+386) 1476 39 00. Raiffeisen Bank C-3, Pogačarjev Trg 2, tel. (+386) 1234 98 18. Skb B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 1471 59 58. Unicredit Banka Slovenija B-3, Wolfova 1, tel. (+386) 1587 64 72.

Business centres

Ljubljanski Univerzitetni Inkubator H-1, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 1620 34 80.

Poslovni angeli Slovenije H-2, Železna 18, tel. (+386) 1307 09 33.

Tehnološki Park Ljubljana H-2, Teslova 30, tel. (+386) 1477 66 13.

The Business Center (Virtual Office and Business Center) B-2, Slovenska 34, tel. (+386) 1 4701 690.

Chambers of Commerce

Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia H-1, Dimičeva 13, tel. (+386) 1589 80 00.

Computers

Comshop BTC J-2, Šmartinska 152/9, tel. (+386)

051 34 59 11. Sosed H-2, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 31 610 604. Tech Trade B-2, Vošnjakova 5, tel. (+386) 1434 01 08.

Consultants

IQbator B-2, Drenikova 33, tel. (+386) 41690666. MM-konto H - - 1, Devova 5, tel. (+386) 1515 50 22. Par H-3, Tbilisijska 128, tel. (+386) 1423 15 06. Pro-Eco H-1, Vodovodna 99a, tel. (+386) 1565 45 67.

Tax-Fin-Lex C-1, Dunajska 20, tel. (+386) 1432 42 43.

Currency exchange

Menjalnica AŽUR C-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. (+386) 1786 08 80.

Primus Group C-1/2, Trg OF 6, tel. (+386) 1432 10 14.

Publikum FIN C-2, Miklošičeva 34, tel. (+386) 1300 60 80.

Foreign representations

Albania J-2, Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1547 36 50. Australia (Consulate) H-2, Dunajska 50, tel. (+386)

1425 42 52. Austria A-3, Prešernova 23, tel. (+386) 1479 07 00. Belgium B-3, Trg Republike 3/ IX, tel. (+386) 1200 60 10. Bosnia & Herzegovina H-1/2, Kolarjeva 26, tel. (+386) 1234 32 50.

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

Brazil B-3, Kongresni trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244 24 00. Bulgaria H-3, Opekarska 35, tel. (+386) 1 28 32 899.

Canada (consulate) B-2, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386) 1252 44 44.

Chile (consulate) G-2, Brdnikova 34b, tel. (+386)

1423 96 70. China E-2, Koblarjeva 3, tel. (+386) 1420 28 55. Croatia C-4, Gruberjevo nabrežje 6, tel. (+386) 1200 44 01. Cyprus B-2, Komenskega 12, tel. (+386) 1232 15 42. Czech Republic A-3, Riharjeva 1, tel. (+386) 1420 24 50. Denmark B-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386) 143 80 800. Egypt B-2, Miklošičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1308 18 50. Finland B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300 21 20. France B-4, Barjanska 1, tel. (+386) 1479 04 00. Germany A-2, Prešernova 27, tel. (+386) 1479 03 00. Greece C-4, Trnovski Pristan 14, tel. (+386) 1420 14 00. Hungary G-1, Ulica Konrada Babnika 5, tel. (+386) 1512 18 82. India B-2, Maurerjeva 29, tel. (+386) 1513 31 17. Indonesia (consulate) A-3, Prešernova 11, tel. (+386) 1200 51 77. Ireland C-3, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1300 89 70. Israel (consulate) H-1, Dunajska 119, tel. (+386) 1566 10 20. Italy A-3, Snežniška 8, tel. (+386) 1426 21 94. Japan B-3, Trg republike 3/ XI, tel. (+386) 1200 82 81. Jordan (consulate) J-2, Zaloška 159, tel. (+386) 1546 15 00. Latvia B-2, Ajdovščina 4, tel. (+386) 040 22 91 71. Lithuania B-3, Kongresni Trg 3, tel. (+386) 1244 26 11. Luxemburg (consulate) B-3, Slovenska 27, tel. (+386) 1470 70 15. Macedonia A-3, Prešernova 2, tel. (+386) 1421 00 21. Malta (consulate) B-2, Kersnikova 11, tel. (+386) 041 444 014. Mehico ((consulate)) B-3, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386) 1470 70 35. Montenegro D-2, Njegoševa 14, tel. (+386) 1439 53 64. Morocco (consulate) H-2, Bizjanova 2, tel. (+386) 1581 63 00. Netherlands C-2, Poljanski nasip 6, tel. (+386) 1420 14 61. New Zealand (consulate) H-1, Verovškova 57, tel. (+386) 1580 30 55. Norway B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 1300 21 40. Philippines (consulate) H-1, Ulica Bratov Učakar 50, tel. (+386) 1518 15 84. Poland H-2, Bežigrad 10, tel. (+386) 1 436 47 12. Portugal B-3, Trg Republike 3/X, tel. (+386) 1479 05 40. Romania H-1, Podlimbarskega 43, tel. (+386) 1505 82 94. Russia A-2, Tomšičeva 9, tel. (+386) 1422 49 20. Serbia C-2, Slomškova 1, tel. (+386) 1438 01 10. Seychelles (consulate) Tržaška 19a, Logatec, 30km southwest of Ljubljana, tel. (+386) 1754 29 46. Slovakia A-3, Tivolska 4, tel. (+386) 1425 54 25.

October - November 2009

Business South Africa (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 4, tel. (+386) 1200 63 00.

South Korea (consulate) B-3, Trg Republike 3, tel.

(+386) 1252 71 17. Spain C-4, Trnovski pristan 24, tel. (+386) 1420 23 30. Sweden B-2, Ajdovščina 4/ VIII, tel. (+386) 130 00 270. Switzerland B-3, Trg republike 3/ VI, tel. (+386) 1200 86 40. Thailand (consulate) C-2, Pražakova 12, tel. (+386) 1433 30 26. Turkey B-1, Livarska 4, tel. (+386) 1236 41 50. Ukraine H-2, Teslova 23, tel. (+386) 1421 06 04. UK A-3, Trg Republike 3/ 4, tel. (+386) 1200 39 10. USA A-2, Prešernova 31, tel. (+386) 1200 55 00. Vatican C-3, Krekov Trg 1, tel. (+386) 1433 92 04.

Insurance companies

Adriatic Slovenica C-2, Miklošičeva 20, tel. (+386)

1439 81 80. Generali H-2, Kržičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1475 71 00. Kd Življenje H-1, Celovška 206, tel. (+386) 158 26 522. Triglav C-2, Miklošičeva 19, tel. (+386) 1474 73 20.

Lawyers

Janez Pejovnik B-3, Slovenska 29, tel. (+386) 1200 76 86.

Odvetniška družba Mramor, Sorta, Bilić & Holec C-2, Komenskega 4, tel. (+386) 59 93 77 00.

Odvetniška pisarna Miro Senica in odvetniki B-4, Barjanska 3, tel. (+386) 1252 80 00. Peter Mele odvetniška pisarna C-2, Resljeva 25, tel. (+386) 1430 04 61.

Ministries

Agriculture, Forestry and Food H-2, Dunajska 58,

tel. (+386) 1478 90 00. Culture D-2, Maistrova 10, tel. (+386) 1369 59 00. Defence H-1, Vojkova 55, tel. (+386) 1471 22 11. Economy C-2, Kotnikova 5, tel. (+386) 1400 33 11. Education and Sport C-2, Kotnikova 38, tel. (+386) 1478 42 00. Environment and Spatial Planning H-2, Dunajska 48, tel. (+386) 1478 74 00. Finance B-2, Župančičeva 13, tel. (+386) 1369 66 10. Foreign Affairs A-3, Prešernova 25, tel. (+386) 1478 20 00. Health B-2, Štefanova 5, tel. (+386) 1478 60 01. Higher Education, Science and Technology D-1, Kotnikova 38, tel. (+386) 1478 46 00. Interior B-2, Štefanova 2, tel. (+386) 1428 40 00. Justice B-2, Župančičeva 3, tel. (+386) 1369 52 00. Labour, Family and Social Affairs C-2, Kotnikova 5, tel. (+386) 1369 77 00. Public Administration H-2, Tržaška 21, tel. (+386) 1478 83 30. Transport H-2, Langusova 4, tel. (+386) 1478 80 00.

NGOs

Amnesty International B-2, Beethovnova 7, tel.

Cnvos F-3, Povšetova 37, tel. (+386) 1542 14 22. Lic F-3, Povšetova 37, tel. (+386) 1521 18 88. Peace Institute D-2, Metelkova 6, tel. (+386) 1234 77 20.

Red Cross (Rdeči Križ) B-4, Mirje 19, tel. (+386)

1241 43 00. Sonček H-1, Rožanska 2, tel. (+386) 1534 06 67. Yhd D-1, Neubergerjeva 7, tel. (+386) 1431 20 54. Zveza AIESEC Slovenija B-2, Kersnikova 4, tel. (+386) 51 299 863. Zveza prijateljev mladine Slovenije B/C -2, Miklošičeva 16, tel. (+386) 1239 67 20.

Notaries

Košak ml. Miro B-3, Trg republike 3, tel. (+386) 1 244 25 00.

Nevenka Tory B-2, Beethovnova 14, tel. (+386) 1242 96 80.

Real estate

Abc Nepremičnine B-1, Tivolska 48, tel. (+386) 1300 00 00. Agencia Zaloška 69, tel. (+386) 1521 15 65. Ljubljana Nepremičnine B-2, Cankarjeva 10, tel. (+386) 80 81 81. Luster H -2, Tržaška 124, tel. (+386) 1200 49 54. Royal Nepremičnine B-2, Cigaletova 5, tel. (+386) 1300 73 70.

Relocations

Relocations H-1, Vojkova 63, tel. (+386) 1565 50 61.

Selitveni servis Repič H-1, Tesovnikova 47, tel. (+386) 1565 69 50. Vatovec C-2, Čufarjeva 5, tel. (+386) 1430 13 40.

Translators

Alkemist Obirska 4, tel. (+386) 1514 16 78. Berlitz B-2, Gosposvetska 2, tel. (+386) 1433 13 25.

MultiLingual Komenskega 6, tel. (+386) 1430 48 27.

Media Delo B-1, Dunajska 5, tel. (+386) 1473 77 00,

info@delo.si, www.delo.si. Dnevnik C-3, Kopitarjeva 2 & 4, tel. (+386) 1308 21 00, info@dnevnik.si, www.dnevnik.si. Pro plus J-1/2, Kranjčeva 26, tel. (+386) 1589 32 00, info@pop-tv.si, www.24ur.com. Radio Slovenia International Ilichova 33, Maribor, tel. (+386) 2 429 92 79. Rtv Slovenija C-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. (+386) 1475 21 11, info@rtvslo.si, www.rtvslo.si. Slovenian Press Agency B-1, Tivolska 50, tel. (+386) 24 10 10, desk@sta.si, www.sta.si. Svet & Ljudje F-1, Peričeva ulica 17, tel. (+386) 1431 8170, savina.dreu@svetinljudje.si, www. svetinljudje.si. The Slovenia Times A-3, Trg Mladinskih Delovnih Brigad 12, tel. (+386) 1520 50 84, info@sloveniatimes.com, www.sloveniatimes.com.

(+386) 1426 93 77.

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

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92 monolitmap_165_90_en.pdf 18.3.2009 0:47:20 Business

JUNIJ 2008

N1 1B 1S

LPP MAP OF BUS ROUTES LJUBLJANA CITY PUBLIC TRANSPORT

14 14B

SHEMA LINIJ LPP MESTNI JAVNI LINIJSKI PREVOZ

Brod

Zapelji se na www.lpp.si

20Z

11B N11

20Z

11B

27K

Navje

N11 27K

N1 N3 N5

Pod Kamno Gorico

7L 27

Dalmatinova

Zmajski most

Zmajski most Krekov trg

23 Gornji trg

14B

Kolezija

Bokalce 1B 1S

Orlova

Nedeljski sejem Dolgi most Rotar Na Gmajnici Pri Poku

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

street reGister Adamič-Lundrovo B/C-3 Ajdovščina B-2 Ambrožev trg D-3 Aškerčeva A-3/4, B-4 Avčinova C/D-1 Barjanska B-4, H2/3 Bavdkova F-1 Bazoviška F-1 Beethovnova B-2/3 Bernekerjeva E/F-1 Bezenškova E/F-1 Bogišičeva A-4 Bohoričeva D/E-2 Bolgarska D-1, E-1/2 Borštnikov trg A-3 Breg B-3/4 C. 27. Aprila A-3 Cankarjeva A/B-2 Cankarjevo B-3 Celovška G-1, H-1/2 Celovška cesta A/B-1, B-2 Cigaletova B/C-2 Cimpermanova C-4 Ciril-Metodov trg C-3 Čopova B-2/3 Črtomirova D-1 Čufarjeva C-2 Dalmatinova B/C-2 Dolenjska H/J-3 Društvena F-2 Dunajska B/C-1, H-1/2 Dvorakova B-2 Dvorni trg B-3 Eipprova B-4 Emonska B-4 Erjavčeva A/B-3 Finžgarjeva A-4 Frankopanska A/B-1 Gallusovo B-3/4 Gasparijeva E/F-2 Glonarjeva E-3 Gornji trg B/C-3, C-4 Gortanova F-3 Gosposka B-3/4 Gosposvetska B-2 Grablovičeva E-1/2, F-2/3

Gradaška A/B-4 Grajska planota C-3/4, D-4 Gregorčičeva A/B-3 Groharjeva A-4 Grudnovo nabrežje B-4 Gubčeva A-1 Hacquetova D-1 Hajdrihova A-4 Hradeckega D/E/F-4 Hrenova C-4 Hribarjevo B-3 Hrvatski trg D-2 Igriška A/B-3 Ilirska C/D-2 Ižanska C/D-4, H-3 Jakopičeva F-2/3 Jakopičevo sprehajališče A-1 Jamova A-4 Janežičeva C-4 Japljeva E-2 Jenkova D/E-2 Jurčičev trg B-3 Kajuhova J-2 Karlovška cesta C-4 Karunova B-4 Kavčičeva E/F-1 Kersnikova B-2 Klunova F-2 Knafljev prehod B-3 Koblarjeva E-2/3, F-3 Kolezijska A/B-4 Kolinska E-1 Kolodvorska C-2 Komenskega C-2 Kongresni trg B-3 Kopališka A-4 Kopitarjeva ulica C-3/4 Korytkova E-1/2 Kosovelova F-2/3 Koširjeva F-3 Kotnikova C-2 Krakovska B-4 Krakovski nasip B-4 Krekov trg C-3 Križevniška B-4 Kumanovska D-3

Langusova A-4 Lepi pot A-4 Levstikov trg B-4 Levstikova A-3 Likozarjeva B-1 Linhartova H/J-2 Lipičeva D/E-3 Litijska cesta F-3, J/K-2, K-3 Livarska B-1 Maistrova D-2 Majaronova E-1 Mala C-2 Malejeva F-2 Malenškova E-2 Malgajeva A-1 Mali trg C-2 Masarykova C-1, D-1/2 Medvedova A/B-1 Mencingerjeva A-4 Mesarska E-3 Mestni trg B-3 Metelkova D-2 Miklošičeva B/C-2 Mirje A/B-4 Močnikova E-2 Murnikova A-4 Nazorjeva B-2 Neubergerjeva D-1 Njegoševa cesta D-2 Novakova D-1 Novi trg B-3 Ob Ljubljanici E/F-2 Ob Zeleni jami E-1 Parmova B-1 Partizanska F-1/2 Perčeva F-1 Peternelova B-3 Petkovškovo nabrežje C-2 Pivovarniška B-1 Plečnikov trg B-3 Pleteršnikova B-1 Pod ježami E/F-1 Pogačerjev trg C-3 Pohlinova E/F-1 Pokopališka F-1 Poljanska C/D/E-3, H/J-2

Poljanski nasip C/D/E-3 Poljedelska F-1 Potočnikova E-3 Potrčeva E-2 Povšetova E-3, F-2/3 Praprotnikova C-4 Pražakova B/C-2 Prešernov trg B-3 Prešernova A-2/3 Prijateljeva C-4 Prisojna D-2 Privoz C-4 Proletarska c. F-1/2 Prule C-4 Prvomajska F-2 Pugljeva F-2 Puharjeva B-2 Resljeva cesta C-2 Ribji trg B-3 Riharjeva A-4 Rimska A/B-3 Robbova C-1 Roška cesta D-3/4 Rozmanova D-2/3 Ruska A/B-1 Salendrova B-3 Sketova E-1/2 Slomškova C/D-2 Slovenska cesta B-2/3, H-2 Snežniška A-3/4 Središka E/F-1 Stari trg B-3 Streliška C-3, D-3/4 Strossmayerjeva C-3 Stritarjeva B-3 Šlajmerjeva E-2 Šmartinska E-1, J-1/2,K-1 Štefanova B-2 Štihova D-1 Šubičeva A/B-3 Tabor D-2 Tavčarjeva B/C-2 Teslova A-4 Tivolska cesta A-2/3,B-1/2, H-2 Tomšičeva A/B-2

Topniška D-1 Tovarniška E/F-1 Trdinova B/C-2 Trg Fr. revolucije B-3 Trg mladinskih del. brigad A-3 Trg OF C-1 Trg Republike A/B-3 Trnovska B-4 Trnovski pristan B/C-4 Trubarjeva C/D-2 Tržaška A-3, H-2/3,G-3 Turnsko nabrežje F-3 Ul. G. Delčeva F-2/3 Ul. J. Husa F-2/3 Ul. St. Pravde C/D-4 Ul. Talcev C/D-4 Večna pot G/H-2 Vegova B-3 Veselova A-3 Vilharjeva cesta C/D-1, H/J-2 Vodmatska F-2 Vodnikov trg C-3 Vogelna B-4 Vošnjakova B-2 Vrazov trg D-3 Vrhovčeva D-2 Vrtača A-3 Vurnikova D-1 Wolfova B-3 Za gradom C/D-4 Zadobrovška K-1/2 Zaloška cesta D/E/F-2, J/K-2 Zarnikova D-3 Združna F-2 Zeljarska A-4 Zemljemerska D-3/4 Ziherlova B/C-4 Zoisova B-4 Zrinjskega C/D-4 Zvezna F-1 Zvonarska C-4 Žabjak B/C-4 Železna C-1 Žibertova A-1 Židovska B-3 Župančičeva B-2

We still can’t believe they built this monstrosity

ljubljana.inyourpocket.com

October - November 2009

indeX 3 Muhe 80 7edma Lukna 56 Adria Airways 11 AGIO rent a car 10 Air France 11 Ajda 43 Ajdovo Zrno 50 Alpin Action 75 Ambient 39 Amnesty International 90 Antikvariat 79 Antiq 34 Apartments Kaninska Vas 73 Aqua 82 Arena Vodafone live! Gladiator (BTC Center) 31 Ars Linguae 88 Art cafe 72 As 44 Asdom Apartments 39 As Lounge 56 Atet 10 Atlantis Water Park 31 Australia 89 Austria 89 Austrian Airlines 11 Austria Trend 34 AutoRent 10 Avant 10 Avantura 12 Avis 10 Bachus 56 Bachus Center 44 Bachus Lounge 51 Bangkok Street 41 Bank Of Slovenia 89 Belgium 89 Best Western Hotel Kompas 69 Best Western Premier Slon36 Biljardna Hiša 56 Bit Center Hotel 31 Bit Sport Center 31 Bled Castle 72 Bled Tourist Office 69 Boka Pension 73 Bosnia & Herzegovina 89 Boutique Lacoste 80 Bovec Rafting Team 75 Bovec Šport Centre 75 Bovška Hiša 75 Brazil 89 Brda 78 Breskvar Tennis Academy 31 Brussels Airlines 11 BTC City 82 Budget Rent a Car 10 Bulgaria 89 Bus station 9 Butik La Vision 80 Cacao 51 Čad 41 Café Antico 52 Café Open 61 Café Plato 52 Café Romeo 44 Camp Korita 75 Camp Liza 75 Camp Polovnik 75 Camp Soča 75 Canada (consulate) 89 Cankarjev dom 27 Cantina Mexicana 48 Carrent 10 Casablanca 54 Casino Kongo 56 Casino Lev 56 Cathedral 62 Celica 38 Central 36 Central Market 82 Čevljarski Most 62 Cezar Bar 54 Chamber of Commerce and Industry of Slovenia 89 CHAOTHAI masaže za boljše počutje 88 Chemo Express 88 Chile (consulate) 89 Chilli 71 China 89 Church of the Assumption 72 Citypark 84

Collegium 12 Čolnarna 52 Compañeros 54 Conestoga 54 Contemporary History Museum 66 Croatia 89 Cubo 44 Culture 90 Čupiterija 44, 54 Cutty Sark 58 Cyprus 89 Czech Airlines 11 Delikatesa Ljubljanski Dvor50 Devil Bar Caffe 72 DHL 87 Digital Tour Guide 65 Dolce & Gabbana Outlet 80 Drog-Art 87 Dunajska Pekarna 50 Easyjet 11 Emonska klet 56 Emporium 80 Equrna 27 Escape 59 ESITI 27 Europcar 11 Evangelical Church 62 Eventim 27 Falafel 50 FedEx 87 Femiks 88 Fétiche 54 Figovec 49 Fit&Fun Center 31 Flat 80 Flea Market 82 Fluxus 38 Foculus 48 Fresh Line 79 Furla 80 Gajo Jazz Club 57 Ganes Pratt 27 Generali 90 Golf Bovec 75 Golf klub barje 31 Golf Trnovo 31 Gostilna Avsenik 71 Gostilna Kovač 49 Gostilna Krpan 43 Gostilna Lovec 49 Gostišče Vančar 73 Gotour 75 Grad Dobrovo 78 Gradiant 31 Grajska Kavarna 52 Grand Casino Ljubljana 56 Grand Hotel Toplice 69 Grand Hotel Union Executive 32 Greens 50 Guinness Pub 58 Gymnisivm Sauna 61 Hala Tivoli 27 Hard Core Cafe 60 Hertz 11 Holy Trinity Church 64 Hotel Alp 73 Hotel Kanin 73 Hot Horse 50 House of Experiments 66 Hungary 89 Hypo Group Alpe Adria 89 Imperio Mexicano 48 InBox 57 India 89 Indonesia (consulate) 89 Interior 90 International Centre of Graphic Arts 66 Intersport 84 IQbator 89 JAT Airways 11 Jež 50 Joe Peña's 48 Jordan (consulate) 89 Juicebox 43 Justice 90 K4 Roza 61 Kamera Klub 55 Kanin 77 Kavalino 48 Kavarna Maček Rooms 36

Ljubljana In Your Pocket

Kavarna Tromostovje 52 Kavarna Union 27 Kažipot 12 Kinoteka 27 Kipling Store 81 Kirurški Sanatorij Rožna dolina 88 Klinec Homestead 78 Klub300 31, 57 Klub Slon 60 Klub SubSub 57 Kodeljevo 31 Kodeljevo sports park 31 Kolosej 27 Kompas 12 Konex center 31 Kongo Hotel & Casino 36 Konkurenca 50 Koželj 81 Kraljev Hrib 31 Križanke Open Air Theatre 27 KUD France Prešeren 27 Kurirček 87 L'Occitane 79 Labod 71, 88 Laguna Spa & Fun 31 Lake Bled 72 Lar's Bar 55 La Storia 48 Latino Nightclub 60 Latvia 89 Le Coq Blanc 43 Lectar Inn 70 Lectar Inn Museum 72 Lectar Inn Restaurant 71 Lev 32 Lezbična Knjižnica 61 Lili in Roza 81 Ljubljana airport 11 Ljubljana Castle 64 Ljubljana Gay and Lesbian Film Festival 61 Ljubljana Nepremičnine 90 Ljubljana Night & Day 65 Ljubljana Tourist Information Centre 62 Ljubljana Tourist Information Office at the Railway Station 27 Ljubljanček 82 Ljubljanski Dvor 44 LPP 9 Lufthansa 11 Luka Gourmet Lunch Cafe 44 Maček 53 Made in Slovenia 82 Main post office 87 Malév 11 Malta (consulate) 89 Mandarina Duck 81 Manna 46 Marella 81 Marina Yachting 84 Maxim 46 Maxi Market 84 Max Mara 81 McDonald's 50 M Center tehnike in gradnje Črnuče 84 Mehurček 88 Melvita 79 Mencigar Nobile 49 Mercator Center Ljubljana 84 Mestna galerija 1 27 Mestna optika 88 Mestni Trg 63, 68 Metropol 53 Metro Taxi 12 M hotel 36 Mič Styling 88 Midas 81 Millenium 31 Mladinska Knjiga 79 MM-konto 89 Mondial Travel 12 Mons 34 Mons Jazz Club 57 Montenegro 89 Morocco (consulate) 89 Most 46 Motel Encijan 73 Movia 58 Mrakič Apartments 75

Much 88 Nama 84 Namasté 43 National Drama Theatre 27 National Gallery 66 National Museum 66 Natural History Museum 66 Nebotičnik 62 Nobel Burek 43 Okrepčevalnica Petkovšek 53 Olimpija 43 Oliviers&Co 82 Opera Bar 55 Operna Klet 43 Optika FELIKS 88 Optika Zajec 88 Orthodox Church 64 Orto Bar 57 Oton Zupancic Library 87 Out in Slovenia 61 Oxford Center 79 Paninoteka 50 Park 36, 38 Park Hotel Bled 70 Parma 49 Pasta Nona 48 Patrick's Irish Pub 58 Patrick Sport d.o.o. 84 Peko 81 Pension and Camp Klin 75 Philharmonic 27 Piazza 49 Pizzeria Gallus 71 Pizzeria Osmica 49 Pizzeria Rustika 71 Plato 46 Plavalni klub Ilirija 31 Playa 55 Plečnik House 66 Poland 89 Polna Skleda 46 Portal 41 Portugal 89 Poslovni angeli Slovenije 89 Premier Pub 58 Pri Jovotu 41 Pri Semaforju 53 Pristava Lepena 73 Pri Vitezu 46 Pri Vodniku 49 Pro-Eco 89 Pro plus 90 Protocol 12 Pub Bled 72 Puppet Theatre 27 Q Cultural Centre 61 Railway Museum 68 Recreational Center Tivoli 31 Red Cross 90 Relax 12 Relocations 90 Restaurant 2000 42 Ribca 43 Ribno 70 Rio-Momo 42 Robbov Vodnjak 65 Rogo Sport 84 Rollbar 55 Romania 89 Roman remains 68 Roundabout 12 Roxly 55 Rožna Hiša 46 Rtv Slovenija 90 Rugby Pub & Hostel 38 Rumeni Taxi 12 Russia 89 Rustika 82 Salsoteca 31 Sarajevo '84 42 SAS Scandinavian Airlines 11 Sax House 42 Seaway 84 Sense Welness Club 88 Separé 46 Serbia 89 Seychelles (consulate) 89 Shambala 41 Simple, Ljubljana E.Leclerc 88 Simple, Ljubljana SUPERNOVA 88 SiQRD 61 Sixt 11

Skb 89 Škuc Gallery 27 Slaščičarna Pri Vodnjaku 53 Slon 46 Slovakia 89 Slovene Ethnographic Museum 68 Slovenia for Gay Travelers 61 Slovenian National Opera & Ballet Theatre 27 Slovenian Press Agency 90 Slovenian Tourist Information Center 62 Soča Rafting 77 Sofra 42 Sokol Group d.o.o. 31 Sokol Tivoli Fitness center 31 Sonček 90 Sončni studio body line 88 Sončni studio Sun vision 88 Sosed 89 South Africa (consulate) 90 South Korea (consulate) 90 Spain 90 Špajza 50 Sputnik 55 St. Martin's Church 72 STA 12 Stara Mačka 46, 55 Stari Tišler 36, 49 STA Travel Cafe 53 Stil 36 St Joseph 64 St Peter 64 Studio Christian 88 Sunny 31 Supernova 84 Sushimama 41 Tanga 60 Tao 12 Taxi Društvo Ljubljana 12 Taxi Intertours 12 Taxi Laguna 12 Technoplus 11 Thai Inn Pub 41 Thai Sabai 61 Thrifty 11 Tine Express 87 Tivoli Park 63 TNT Express 87 Top: Eat & Party 53, 57 Top Extreme Sports Centre 77 Tourist Information Centre 27 Tourist Train 65 Train Station 9 Traveller's Haven 70 Trgovina Ika 82 Tromostovje 62 Turkish Airlines 11 UK 90 Ultra 57 Union 70 Union Garden 46 University Medical Centre Ljubljana 88 UPS Intereuropa 87 USA 90 Valvasor 50 Vegedrom 50 Velika Planina 65 Venera Shop 60 Veseli Merjasec 47 Vila Bled Restaurant 71 Vila Prešeren 71 Vila Veselova 38 Vinjeta 11, 14 Vinska Klet Goriška Brda 78 Vodnikov Hram 50 Wild West Saloon 47 Wine Cellars of Slovenia 58 Xplorer 87 Yhd 90 Žak 50 Žale Cemetery 62 Zlata Ladjica 55 Zlati Most 41 Zmajski Most 63 Žmauc 56 Zveza AIESEC Slovenija 90 Zveza prijateljev mladine Slovenije 90 Zvezda 53

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Razpisani datumi: 20.9. – 28.11.2009 Namestitev: GRAND HOTEL PRISANK****, HOTEL ALPINA***, HOTEL ŠPIK***

SKI OPENING POHORJE

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KOPE

04.12. – 06.12. Namestitev: Lukov Dom, Grmovškov dom, Apartmaji Vabo in Luka

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Ambient Maxi ČŠ2PEČŠPCNS@JGICČŠ ČŠ*HS@JH?L? ČŠ1JMTCLGH?ČŠbČŠ2CJCDML ČŠ ČŠ ČŠ ČŠ ČŠ Odprto:ČŠ.MLCBCJHCIČŠ ČŠ.CRCI ČŠ ČŠ ČŠ ČŠbČŠ1M@MR? ČŠ ČŠ ČŠ