Jogjamag september final 1 light by leroy sylvain

FREE Sept 2013

ENGLISH Your Guide to Discovering Jogja

#15

Set Sail to Karimunjawa Discover Java’s Snorkeling Paradise p. 5

Tourist Kampungs p. 22 Lost Something?

Ask your Local Psychic p. 20

What’s Happening this month p.24 TOP 10 EVENTS THIS MONTH

TOURIST DIRECTORY & MAPS

Over 1500 local business listings www.jogjabagus.com

Contents

EDITOR’S NOTE Dear Readers, Each of our monthly issues are designed to highlight interesting stories and inform you of the sights, sounds, and tastes that exist in and around Jogjakarta. For September, we feature the amazing destination of Karimunjawa, an enchanting tropical retreat off the north coast of Java. We listen to a band of local street musicians in Jogja who are bringing new sounds to old gamelan songs, and we sip cups of steaming kopi joss at late night stalls. In vignettes, interviews, and recipes we hope to bring you closer to the magic of our fair city.

DESTINATION OF THE MONTH

Karimunjawa: Snorkeling Paradise

08 12

INSPIRING JOGJA

YAKKUM: Desire to Help

STREET FOOD Kopi Joss

JAVANESE WISDOM

JAVANESE HEALTH SECRET

UNDERGROUND JOGJA Gamelan with a Twist

‘till next month, Sarah Herz

JOGJAMAG STAFF FOUNDER & EDITOR CO-EDITOR CONTENT MANAGER STAFF WRITER PHOTOGRAPHER GRAPHIC DESIGNER CUSTOMER SERVICE MARKETING CONTRIBUTORS Cover Photo Copyright of:

Sylvain Leroy Erik W. Jorgensen Sarah Herz Anna Miranti Deti Lucara Mika Guritno Cecilia Morlacchi Atreda Wicaksi Nining Hendro Wijanarko Patrick Vanhoebrouck Moko Pramusanto Sylvain Leroy

PTPMA. Mindo Jl. Suryodiningratan Griya Suryo Asri 2, No. A2 Yogyakarta Tel. 0274 372971

Find the Guide Within Yourself

ADVERTORIAL

Colombo Hotel

Pilis: Healing Herbal Paste

POTRAIT OF JOGJA The Psychic

INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH

Head of Tourism & Culture Department

TOP 10 EVENTS

What’s Hapenning This Month

TOURIST DIRECTORY

Find what you’re looking for

JOGJA MAPS

City Map, Jl. Prawirotaman & Jl. Sosrowijayan Contact: 0274 372971 (eng) 08562662373 (Ind) cso@jogjastar.com

JogjaMag @jogjamag jogjamag.com

Previous Editions

restaurant - travel - guesthouse fair trade shop - yoga studio indonesian and world kitchen friday night jazz alternative tours and courses contemporary art exhibitions fair trade shop | yoga classes open daily from 7.30 am

jalan prawirotaman 30, jogjakarta, java, indonesia ph +62 274 38 65 57

www.viaviajogja.com | www.viaviacafe.com

Destination of the month

Set Sail to

karimunjawa Discover Java’s Snorkeling Paradise

ogyakarta is the starting point for many types of trips across Java. You can choose your own adventure from all the itineraries featured at your homestay’s reception area, but sometimes it is hard to know where to go next. If you are ready to take a break from touring temples, and like following the road less traveled, stow your Bali book in your bag and book a boat to Karimunjawa National Park. Situated 80 km north of Central Java are 27 tiny islands that comprise the area in and around Karimunjawa National Park. With a total population of less than 10,000 people, and many islands completely uninhabited, this remote marine reserve is teeming with opportunities for that postcard perfect moment that is just you, white sand, blue water, and millions of happy fish. Once you are there, you will never want to leave. Homestays, guesthouses, and a few resorts offer housing for all budgets. Friendly tour operators will fit you out with snorkel gear, and let you pick your islands - taking you out in small fishing boats with nothing but a cooler of drinks and some lunch supplies, while letting you drift by tropical scenes you previously thought only existed on your desktop. To begin to appreciate the 250 species of fish,

the 100 varieties of coral, as well as observe the 40 different types of birds, swim with sharks, and catch a glimpse of the local deer you should plan for at least 3 full days in the park, though ‘island time’ can quickly seep into your bones as the weeks roll by. It doesn’t take much to imagine how this tropical paradise looked to the pirates, who sought refuge here, or to the British penal colony that was briefly in residence. Not much has changed in the last 300 years. Landlubbers will encounter an interesting cultural blend between the Java culture from the island of Java, the Madura from the islands off the coast of Java, and the Bugis - the sailing culture that has been the source of pirate legends and the “boogey” man. These residents live harmoniously on the five inhabited park islands, amongst palm tree coastlines and mangrove swamps. The kind of beauty you’ll find both on land and underwater is no accident. Karimunjawa has retained its pristine environment and timeless feel thanks in part to limited seasonal transportation options (see box). During the rainy season (October to April) the seas can be too high for the ferry to run, sometimes for weeks, and even in the dry season (May to September) things can be dodgy. If you have a plane 5

Jogjamag highly recommends these quality travel agents. Pamitran

Satu Dunia Tour & Travel

Never Try, Never Know Tel. 0274 8527888

09.00 AM 10.30 AM 14.00 PM

KARIMUNJAWA - JEPARA

1. Slow Boat : Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday 2. Fast Boat 1 : Monday 3. Fast Boat 2 : Wednesday 4. Fast Boat 3 : Saturday 5. Fast Boat 4 : Sunday NOTE: - with Fast boat = 2 hours - with Slow boat = 6 hours

Package deals start from 650k. Tel. 0274 66666610

JEPARA - KARIMUNJAWA

1. Slow Boat : Monday, Wednesday, Saturday 2. Fast Boat 1 : Monday, Tuesday, Saturday 3. Fast Boat 2 : Friday

08.00 AM 13.00 PM 10.30 PM

08.00 AM 14.00 PM

*Always call to double check boat schedules directly with the company

Photo: Sarah Herz & Sylvain Leroy

Boats to Karimunjawa can be difficult to book securely in advance.

boat schedule Words: Sarah Herz

you must catch, be sure to check the weather in advance, and give yourself an extra day or so for the unexpected. Some other things to keep in mind are that electricity is not available during the daytime, so bring extra batteries, and buy your ice in the early morning, keeping it locked safe in a cooler for the dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s use. There is an ATM on the main island of Karimun, motorbikes available to rent, and a few small shops where you can buy a limited selection of groceries. If you have the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest feet consider packing in your own flippers for snorkeling.

Inspiring jogja

YAKKUM,

A Total Commitment to Help People with Disabilities Embrace and Support The Disabled Ones with Love

Contacts: Office: Jl. Kaliurang Km. 13,5 Tel. 0274 895386 or 895181 PO BOX: 6310, YKGD, Gondolayu www.YAKKUM-rehabilitation.org support@YAKKUM-rehabilitation.org Opens Monday - Friday 8 am - 4 pm

Photo: Courtesy of YAKKUM

The real challenge lies in a larger issue; building and fostering a positive mentality for disabled people, and changing the way society in general views the disabled. “Today, most people still think that people with disabilities are weak. In their minds, the disabled should just do nothing and rely on others. This paradigm such a double-edged sword: on one hand it weakens disabled people mentally, on the other hand it makes people treat disabled ones as weak,” Maria explains. In order to change this mentality and attitude, YAKKUM always asks family and friends of the disabled persons to support and embrace them sincerely in society. It is an integrated program package, starting with the disabled and those closest to them, this circle of acceptance and support is expected to grow bigger, eventually to the society at large. This program has proven successful for Amanda. In such a conducive situation, Amanda felt accepted and loved, and it encouraged her to diligently practice walking and sitting, and use her walker equipment. The therapy for Amanda continues today, and while she gets better at walking she also gets the joy back on her face, winning her personal battle against pain and disability. Bringing back a cheery smile and hope to disabled people, especially the youth, is what makes volunteers and staff in YAKKUM keep going, “It is my pleasure to see them happy and hear them laugh again,” says Ichan, one of the full time staff.

Words: Deti Lucara

big smile adorns the face of a 5-year-old girl named Amanda. After spending several months of physical and mental therapy at YAKKUM (Yayasan Kristen Untuk Kesehatan Umum, or Christian Foundation for Public Health), Amanda is finally able to walk. This simple act that we take for granted everyday is a huge and difficult accomplishment for someone with Arthrogryposis Multiplex Congenital defects. Luckily the therapists, volunteers, and doctors at YAKKUM have worked with Amanda every step of the way. Actually even before the first step, when her rehabilitation started with getting her on her feet and able to stand. YAKKUM was founded by Colin FA McLennan from New Zealand in 1982, with the mission to accommodate the mobility needs of people with disabilities, YAKKUM manufactures a wide range of tools from tricycles and prosthesis to crutches and braces. But perhaps more important is their physical rehabilitation center. YAKKUM helps build and reinforce each patient’s ability to be strong and independent psychologically, socially, and financially. “Each of our patient must undergo several programs based on their needs. Physiotherapy, education classes, mental development classes, and the skill development classes are all important and needed to prepare them to get a job and live a full and fulfilling life. They can choose skill development classes based on their interests, such as graphic design, sewing, cooking, cosmetology, basic electronics, advanced electronics, batik, and more” Maria, the head of YAKKUM, says. “the idea is to fit the program to the person”. YAKKUM has done a lot for individuals with disabilities, however many within YAKKUM feel the

STREET FOOD

KOPI JOSS A little hot charcoal in my cup of coffee, please.

Ask the parking man which one is the original angkringan Lik Man. 10

Photo: Mika Guritno

Angkringan Lik Man opens everyday from afternoon till mid night, but Kopi Joss is best enjoyed in the evening, so make sure you come after the sun goes down.

Perhaps m o s t surprising of all it was well received by the public and has a strong cult following to this day. Lik Man has passed away but his name is still used by the original Kopi Joss angkringan as a tribute to him. Angkringan Lik Man is now run by his children and grandchildren. In the 2000’s many new angkringan entrepreneurs popped up selling Kopi Joss and built stalls just next to Lik Man original stall. If it is your first visit, it will be difficult to distinguish the famous Lik Man’s angkringan from the new competition, but taking the time to distinguish the original is worth it. The Kopi Joss served in Lik Man’s angkringan uses charcoal made from a quality wood, which it does not leave fragments of charcoal and ashes in the cup of coffee, and this really makes a difference. If you decide to come to Angkringan Lik Man, you can sit on a wooden bench near the portable kitchen. This is where the seller simultaneously prepares and serves all kinds of food and drinks. The furnace is full of charcoal making this a warm comfortable place to sit and chat with friends.

Words: Deti Lucara

long Wongsodirjan street, just north of the Jogjakarta train station there is a row of small food stalls called “Angkringan”. “Angkringan” means food stall in Indonesian, and they can be found just about everywhere you look in Jogja, but there is something very different and unique for sale in the Angkringan along Jl. Wongsodirjan. ‘Kopi Joss’- a special coffee which has a hot charcoal added to it just before it’s served. ‘Kopi’ means coffee in Indonesian and ‘Joss’ is the sound the hot charcoal makes when is comes in contact with the liquid coffee...Josssssss. The technique is surprising, but the flavor and aroma of this coffee concoction will immediately seduce you. The carbon of the charcoals is efficacious and helps to soothe upset stomachs, while giving the coffee a rich earthy taste. According to local lore, the first kopi joss vendor in Jogja was Lik Man (Lik is the javanese nickname for uncle, and Man is actually just the name of the vendor). In the 1950’s, a student from Gajah Mada University came to Lik Man’s angkringan and requested a coffee, but made the special request that he put a hot charcoal in the cup just before he served it. Lik Man had coals from the stove’s fire which he used to boil water for the kettle, and while thinking it was a little weird, he honored the request. Surprised by the rich taste, Lik Man was immediately converted, called the drink ‘Kopi Joss’ and began selling it.

Underground Jogja

Gamelan with a Twist

Photo: Mika Guritno

Kridolaras Music Group can be found in the south of Beringharjo traditional market everyday 10 am – 2 pm, and on Malioboro Street starts from 7 pm – 9 pm. Contact: Joko 087838466650

the young generation to deal with traditional music in the midst of modernization, and as groups of young people from Cilacap migrated to other cities angklung tek-tek has gained rapidly in popularity, reaching the streets of Jogjakarta in 2009. Along Malioboro, there are four bands that perform angklung tek-tek every night. Each group usually consists of six young people playing pop or dangdut songs. One of these bands is Kridolaras, who claims to be the second angklung tek-tek group to come to Jogja. The initiator of the band, Joko, said that Kridolaras evolved slowly with recruiting and teaching young players this new type of music compilation. Although he only graduated from elementary school, Joko has a natural talent as a musician, and is able to make arrangements of any song so it is adapted to angklung tek-tek instruments. “I made music arrangement of almost every song that becomes a hit, then do rehearsal afterwards with my crew” Joko said. For Joko, it is a pleasure to devote his life to music, preserving local arts, providing a livelihood for others, and entertaining the audiences. Initially he and some friends did performances on the streets, where all the instruments were worn by rope around the neck for easy transport. But he now make use of a sidewalk to the south of Beringharjo traditional market as their stage during the day, and then moves further north Malioboro at night. Kridolaras is often invited to perform in hotels and weddings parties, both in Jogja and out of town. The hard work of Joko and his band has paid off. What they do is a proof that traditional arts can be integrated into modern times with some creative innovation.

Words: Deti Lucara

or decades, tourists and scholars have come to Java to experience the ancient musical tradition of gamelan. The unfamiliar instruments and rhythm used by an ensemble of stately players in traditional batik clothing bring Java’s cultural history fully into the present day, letting the listener gain a sense of what makes this corner of the world different from all the others. The tradition and ceremony around gamelan music is respected in present day Java, but there is a new sound that is coming from the island’s youth that combines familiar tradition with the popular songs of today. On your evening excursions through Jogjakarta you may be lucky enough to encounter one of these groups who identify themselves as angklung tek-tek. Angklung tek-tek was first developed in Cilacap, a city located on the border of Central and West Java, and a major sea port for national and international markets. Due to its central location, Cilacap musicians are exposed to the traditional styles of different regions, which has led them to create a unique blending of sounds and instruments from across Java. For example, the bamboo instrument in gamelan, the angklung, originates from West Java, but in Cilacap it has been applied to the harmonies and rhythms more common to Central Javanese gamelan songs. This adaptability to traditional sounds is what opened the door for Cilacap’s youth to take it a step further, adding more modern instruments, such as drums, and composing variations of popular music with the gamelan tools and rhythms. This collaboration is an interesting innovation, a way for

Javanese Wisdom

“DADIYA GURU YA MURIDE PRIBADI, DADIYA MURID YA GURUNE“

Find the Guide Within Yourself and Become Its Best Pupil

wood and fabric were bought, stored, and then traded for export. The Arab, Chinese and Indian Muslim traders founded the first Islamic compounds or ‘kaum’, each with their own mosques and this was initially authorized by the Hindu-Buddhist emperor at the time, Prabu Brawijaya V. It could be said that Islam and economic trade came hand in hand, slowly gaining in importance over the next centuries. Demak, Jepara and Semarang harbors later became the gateways to the heartland ruled by the Mataram Kingdoms. The strategic position of these ports on the main Asian naval trading routes and their relative distance from the stronghold powers of first the empire of Majapahit and later the Mataram made them targets for conquest by successively MiddleEastern and Gujarati Muslim preachers, the Dutch colonial minded VOC and even the English colonial imperialists under Sir Stamford Raffles during his invasion of Java in 1811. It seems clear that for the Dutch or the English, Semarang and the other harbors were essential in isolating the powerful Sultans from Mataram in their kraton in Solo and Yogyakarta as well as their numerous vassal kingdoms in Central and East Java. The colonial expansion and the huge plantation production, and the looting it entailed, needed centrally located ports for shipping goods back to Europe. Yet before the domination of the Europeans, the entry points

Words: Patrick Vanhoebrouck & MokoPramusanto

fter Ambarawa, the road leading to the Karimun Islands descends from the central volcanic range and through to the Javanese northern coastal districts, passing beautiful tropical landscapes strewn with scenic hills and old volcanoes. It eventually ends at the city harbors of either Semarang or Jepara. Before or after your stay in Karimun, visitors can spend several days in the old coastal cities of Semarang, Kudus, Demak or Jepara, delving into the history of this part of Java and exploring the lush outlying areas and natural wonders around Gunung Muria with its dense forests and cascading waterfalls. This article explains some of the rich history behind this enchanting destination to make your stay that much more enjoyable. These districts dotting the northern coast of Java are known collectively as the “Pasisir Utara” and since the 16th century have been instrumental in the development of the entire Central and East Javanese cultural sphere. Two major factors above all determined the fate and history of Java during this period: foreign trade, and Islam. The first foreigners who arrived and came into contact with the Javanese people and the Kingdoms of the Majapahit Empire were mostly religious pilgrims or traders. As the trade with Java and outlying islands intensified between Portuguese, Dutch, English, Indian and Arab merchants at the end of the 15th century, the northern harbors increased gradually in importance. It is there that much of Nusantara’s spices, minerals,

through Demak and Jepara saw the start of a massive subsequent conversion to Islam of an initially animistic and Hindu-Buddhist Javanese population. This conversion was instrumented both peacefully and by force through the efforts of the charismatic nine Muslim Saints known as the Wali Songo. It has to be said that the Nine Saints employed persuasive methods to bring about the Muslim conversion of Java, and the closeness of mystical Sufism to Tantric practices beforehand was undoubtedly a key for the acceptance of the new religion from Mekkah in Javanese land. Amongst them, two Pasisir natives named Sunan Kalijaga and Syeh Siti Jenar knew how to advance Islamic ideas into pre-existing cultural worldviews by utilizing popular traditional forms of art and performances (such as the Wayang repertoire). Soon Kings and spiritual gurus learned to accommodate the secret teachings of Sufism and integrated these in a syncretic form of spirituality known until today as Kejawen, incorporating Hindu and Buddhist values as well as Islam methods yet still respecting the cult of ancestors. Muslim purists often argue as a result that Islam in Java is an imperfect corruption of the original religion taught in Mekkah and that the present 21th century efforts to reform Javanese Islam are therefore legitimate. However the opposite can also be said, as the Pasisir areas has produced some renowned figures. One man in particular which needs mention is the late Raden Mas Panji Sosrokartono, born in Jepara and buried in Kudus. This personage is widely considered to be one of the genius founding fathers of the Republic of Indonesia as he was extremely influential to President Soekarno, the first president and charismatic leader of the anticolonial Revolutionary struggle after World War

II. A gifted child with clairvoyance capabilities, Sosrokartono studied and worked as a young man in the Netherlands. As a polyglot mastering twenty four international languages and ten local ones, he worked across the board from New York to Geneva via Paris and Den Haag. After successful career as interpreter at the UN he decided to study his passion of Medical doctor. Yet here he was disappointed with the limits of medical knowledge, decided to move back to Java and reverted back to his own Javanese culture to discover secrets on mental and physical health. Through the process he learned of the old Sufi and Javanese mystic ways of reaching universal balance from old texts and inspirational gurus. His writings on the topic of mysticism are to this day some of the most popular and widely quoted lines of Javanese wisdom. One of his most famous quotes, pertaining also to this text which deals with recurrent foreign knowledge and worldviews imported on indigenous subjects, says the following:

Dadiyo Guru, yamuridepribadi, Dadiyomuridyagurunepribadi. Piwulanganesengsaranesesamii. Ganjaraneayu – Arumingsesame Translation: “Become the teacher for your own self’s student; Become the student of your own self’s teacher. The teaching is about mankind’s suffering. The result will lead to finding the key to goodness and happiness”. Obviously this admonition is as relevant for today’s world as it was 5 centuries ago.

Advertorial

Colombo Hotel A Convenient Hotel to Start Your Adventure Cruising The Temples

Photo: Courtesy of Colombo Hotel & Mika Guritno

hotel and we will provide all the comfort and ease to it,” says Irene SP, General Manager of Colombo Hotel. There are not many representative, yet affordable, mid-range hotels in eastern Jogja, and Hotel Colombo is one of the best of the selection. The surrounding area is charming, and for guests who want to go downtown, Colombo Hotel provides a shuttle service, making it just an easy ride to other tourist hotspots. The strategic position on an intercity highway makes Colombo Hotel a great place to transit and take a rest during your Java tour. Their 70 rooms are ready to welcome you in comfort, while the meeting rooms with a capacity of up to 300 people are also available for larger groups, events and organizations. The 3 star hotel standard facilities are also available with all the ease, convenience, and security for each guest, and include a swimming pool, restaurant and cafe, shopping gallery, ATM center, laundry & dry cleaning service, free wi-fi, CCTV, express check in and check

Words: Deti Lucara

ogjakarta has many Hindu and Buddhist temples scattered at several locations east of the city, reflecting the kingdoms of the past that were once established in the area. Temples such as Kalasan, Ratu Boko, Plaosan, Sewu, and the famous Prambanan temple draw tourists from near and far every year to marvel at the history and architecture of these beautiful sites. Staying at a hotel which is strategically located near all these temples and more is a distinct advantage to your itinerary. Colombo Hotel, a new, clean and comfortable hotel is located on Jl. Jogja-Solo at kilometer 14, and offers convenience for those who wants to trace back the history of the glorious Javanese kingdoms in the past through the temple heritage tour. In just 5 to 15 minutes from hotel it is possible reach the most of the popular temples. “The common itinerary for tourists is visiting Jogja Palace, Malioboro, and surrounding areas. But for those who wants a different tour, cruising the temples is the best choice. Stay at our

out service, valet service, and a secure parking area. Beginning in September, there will be a new sky lounge on the 5th floor with live music for guests to enjoy. Meanwhile, room amenities include 32inch LCD TV, Bath Up (in the Suite rooms), AC and telephone, coffee and tea maker, hot and cold shower, refrigerator (in Deluxe & Suite Room), safety deposit box (Deluxe & Suite Room), and private balcony (Deluxe & Suite rooms). The Jonggrang Restaurant at the hotel is also another excellent service they offer. Indonesian and Western food is prepared by a seasoned chef and made available for three meals a day. In addition, complete wedding packages are also available. Wedding receptions can be held in a romantic poolside ambience, or in the elegant Grand Ballroom. The package includes makeup, decoration, catering, video and photos, the suite room for the bridal party, a professional MC, entertainment, special wedding cake, welcome drinks, and a special price of rooms for the bridal family. The family-friendly services that come from the hotel staff will make you feel at home during your stay. Colombo Hotel always treats guests with the goal of maintaining a special relationship with each and every visitor for years after their first stay.

Colombo Hotel Jl. Raya Jogja - Solo km 14, Kalasan Tel./Fax 0274 4469000 www.hotelcolombojogja.com

Javanese Health Secret

Pilis Ancient Salve For New Moms

• • • • • •

5 rhizomes of temu giring (Curcuma heyneana Val.) 1 rhizome of bangle (Zingiber cassumunar Roxb.) 2 fingers of krangean (Litsea cuba Pers) 1 rind of the lime called jeruk purut (Citrus hystrix DC.) 5 pieces of clove cengkeh (Eugenia aromatica / Syzygium aromaticum L.) 5 leave-strands of daunkemukus (Piper cubeba L.) Minyak Atsiri or Tawon oil

In short, the Javanese believe that pilis paste applied on the forehead is an effective treatment to diffuse headaches and feelings of dizziness, blurred vision and easing the flow of blood around the cranial area. Often women here apply it after their evening bath and leave it on the forehead for an hour or more. Do you want your eyes to see clearer and sharper? Try the ancient method of pilis paste made with 100% natural ingredients and enjoy life the Javanese way!

Photo: Moko Pramusanto

•

Words: Moko Pramusanto

others shortly after pregnancy often experience vague complaints of the eyes accompanied by feelings of dizziness. This is a normal symptom, as the activity of birth labor requires extraordinary levels of physical and mental energy. Javanese history proves that our ancestors were able to help solve a variety of postpartum complaints for new mothers by using an herbal paste named pilis. One does this by applying the pilis paste on the forehead above the eyebrows and allowing it to stay there for some time. Pilis is made of potent herbs which contain active components able to penetrate the layers of the skin and enter the body’s energy pathways adjacent to the head and eyes. As a result, the area around the eyes is relieved from pain and eventually clarify vision. Similarly dizziness, headaches and migraines can be eased with this ancient method. From Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) we know that the area above the eyes contains several acupressure/acupuncture points which if stimulated may result in strengthening vision, helping the eyes to see clearly and brightly. One of these trigger points is named Gallbladder 14 (Chinese Yangbai or “White Yang”). Pilis widely used in Java, especially amongst women and most specifically by mothers after giving birth, even though the practice has lost of its attraction amongst younger mothers these days. Try to observe the use by the elder women selling pilis at your next visit to the pasar or traditional market. Pilis is a grounded paste which commonly contains the following herbs:

POrtraiT of jogja

‘‘

Jogja’s powerful friend

“If by chance you go to ask the help of a psychic, and he gives a lot of terms that do not make sense like a buffalo slaughter, or finding certain types of rare flowers, and so on, do not believe. If the psychic to communicate with good spirits, they do not need such offerings.“

that the world is divided into two: the physical world and the spiritual world. Often, Rupotolo hears whispers and has visions from this invisible world, especially when he prays to help others. He has done many things for the sake of others, such as returning missing belongings, preventing rainfall in specific areas, improving fortune, and predicting the return of missing fishermen from the sea. Despite all these miracles, Rupotolo still sees himself as an ordinary person, “In fact there is nothing special about me. If I was asked to explain how it works, to be honest I do not know the answer. One thing I know, it’s all just a coincidence. If by chance the request is in accordance with the will of God, it is surely granted,” he says. The modesty and calmness of this man is apparent. He lives in a simple house and lives his life in sincerity. “Live life with honesty, respect others, and put all in God’s hands. There is nothing to worry about. If something is meant to be, it will find its way,” Rupotolo said, imparting his secret to life.

Photo: Mika Guritno

The Psychic

Words: Deti Lucara

ne day, five fishermen went missing in the South Java Sea. Desperate to locate them, the head of the missing men’s village called a psychic from Jogja to help. The psychic said that he could not promise anything, life and death are in God’s hands, and he could simply pray for their safety, “Wait for five days. If within that time they are found, then they will have all survived. Yet if more than five days passes, please be strong and let go, because that means they will never return,” he said. Exactly five days later, the village head called the psychic again to tell him that the five fishermen had been found and all of them survived. Hearing the news, the psychic cried in thankfulness that his prayers had been heard and answered. Although many miracles have been connected to him, Rupotolo, the modest psychic, considers it all a coincidence. “I happen somehow, into a kind of a bridge to conduct prayers and wishes to the owner of life. Personally I am just an ordinary man, have no power of anything. All the marvels are the work of God himself. I sometimes don’t even believe that I can be that useful,” he humbly said. On a day-to-day basis, Rupotolo works as a Sultan’s servant in the Kraton. His position is quite eminent; as a commander, he is in charge of all soldiers in the Kraton. As a tribute to him, many call him the “Romo” or “Gusti”, a greeting for a wise old man. But personally, he prefers to be called “Pak” a common title for adult males in Java, meaning father. Rupotolo’s special talent revealed itself when he was a child. According to his wife, Surat Yasin (Tuti), her husband has possessed the ability to heal the sick since he was young. During childhood, Rupotolo cured a school friend who was apparently possessed, “There were three adults holding his friend, a tiny boy in school, but all of the adults bounced off of him because of the spirit that permeated in that small body was so strong. Yet when Rupotolo approached him, the boy became calm and eventually recovered consciousness. I heard this story from his family, while he remained silent, like usual,” Tuti shared. By coincidence, perhaps, Rupotolo is the greatgrandson of Sultan VII, and was raised in a noble Javanese family where Javanese spiritualism (kejawen) is part of their beliefs. The family holds

INTERVIEW OF THE MONTH

Eko Suryo M Head of Tourism and Culture

What is the role of the Tourism and Creative Economy Department of Jogjakarta? We are responsible for developing tourism, culture, and the creative economy within the city and its many districts. Our work is sanctioned under the Department of Tourism and Creative Economy of Jogjakarta Province.

Photo: Mika Guritno

“If we deal with the development of culture, we must let it grow naturally.”

What is the concept of this tourist kampung? The concept is community-based development, empowering communities within of the kampung so that they thrive and can possibly create tourist attractions themselves. If there is a potential element within community that has tourism potential, for example; mask artisans or another arts group, we want tourists who stay in the hotels nearby to visit this area and see what they have to offer. We want to encourage the hotels to recommend this to their guests, to have them take a look around the kampung and get to know a more traditional way of life. Our role or responsibility is to motivate the community and help them foster sustainable arts activities. When tourists come, the residents in these areas can perform dances, gamelan concerts, or whatever they do best. We basically just want to build on what already exists within our society. Later on, when many tourists are visiting the kampung, new

Words: Deti Lucara

Head of Tourism and Culture Department of Yogyakarta Jl. Suroto 1, Kotabaru pariwisata@jogjakota.go.id Tel. 0274 588025 www.pariwisata.jogjakota.go.id/

Can you tell us the current and future outlook of tourism in the city of Jogjakarta? The major tourist attractions in the city itself are the Sultan’s Palace, Malioboro Street, Sosrowijayan area, Pawirotaman area, Kota Gede, and the silver district. These places are the highlights, and almost every tourist will visit these places, at least one or two of them, when they are in town. In the future we want to develop some tourist “kampungs” (kampung traditionally means an area where the low to middle class live in the city), especially those kampungs which are located near luxury hotels or existing tourist attractions.

Maharso Department of Yogyakarta

creative business will flourish. Maybe the residents will sell souvenirs, offer services, and so on. This is an integrated program for the tourism, culture and creative economy sector. This concept is also the way to reduce the economic gaps, since the development of luxury hotels is usually in contrast to surrounding kampungs. When is the target of this program? Currently we are in the phase of mapping the potential in each kampung, next year we will start working on the implementation plans. I believe this program canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be done in a hurry. It depends on the society itself, and if they are not ready, we cannot force them to be. The sense of culture must grow in peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heart and soul. If they do not have the sense of what they are doing, then the culture will lose its spirit and not be genuine. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s why I do not want to set a target. Everything which grows naturally usually lasts long a long time. It seems like there are two opposing things here. If we talk about culture, it is related to sense of being and feeling and it must grow naturally, but on the other hand, tourism deals with targets for growth and revenue. How do you see this? This is a real constraint. If we want to develop culture with a strong foundation, it cannot be done instantly. On the other hand, when talking about tourism and targets, everyone wants things to be achieved immediately. From my view, rushing things like this will create many superficial artists.The communities need to really understand the spirit of the their art and take it to heart. If the government spends money to fund euphoria programs, it will be in vain. Without a strong foundation of culture, these arts will just appear once and then disappear. There will be no continuity.

TOP 10 EVENTS

September 2013 3 - 10 September

Pawukon 3000

Time: 9am - 9pm Place: Bentara Budaya Yogyakarta, Jalan Suroto, No. 2, Kotabaru Phone: 0274 560404 Entrance Fee: Free Pawukon is a traditional science based in astrology used to describe someone’s character by comparing astrological events with the birthday date. This calendar is believed to have a long root in Javanese history. Bentara Budaya Yogyakarta will exhibit 30 paintings of Pakuwon by Sulardi and Subandi, two prominent artists from Jogja and Solo. Pawukon images on display come from the famous astrologer Brotokesowo whom calculates Pawukon all the way until the year of 3000.

Jogja Party Abis Ft. Dj Yokie Saputra

6 September

Time: 10pm - Until end Place: Republic Positiva Cafe & Lounge, Inna Garuda Hotel Jl. Malioboro, No. 60 Phone: 0274 560853 Entrance Fee: IDR 50k Republic Cafe has a special guest this month - Yokie Saputra. Come and dance the night away with amazing music and atmosphere. It’s not everyday you get to listen to a live DJ who has won the “Best DJ in Asia” award. Not to be missed! 14 September

Leather Puppet Show “Karno Tanding” by Ki Sutejo

Time: 9.30pm - 4.30pm Place: Sasono Hinggil Dwi Abad Phone: 0274 512783 / 0274 512785 Entrance Fee: Free A stunning traditional shadow puppet theatre combined with a javanese gamelan orchestra. In this performance a Dalang (Wayang player) plays puppet made from buffalo leather behind a white screen, so that the audience only see the puppets shadow.

Van Java Lokalitas yang Mendunia

21 - 25 September

Time: 7.30pm Place: Taman Budaya Yogyakarta, Jl. Sri Wedani No. 1 Phone: 0274 523512 / 0274 561914 Entrance Fee: Free This exhibition seeks to preserve Javanesse culture and bring it to a worldwide audience. This is a joint exhibition containing both sculptures and paintings by some of the most prominent artists in Jogja, Jakarta, and Surabaya.

Klangenan Jogja 2013 Performance

28 September

Time: 7pm - Until end Place: Benteng Vredeburg, Jl. Malioboro Phone: 0274 588025 Entrance Fee: Free This event is a media expression art from 45 villages/district in Yogyakarta. They will show many traditional arts and performances and in doing so show the great diversity and cultural imagination that exists within this great city. 24

Indonesia Trail Adventure 2013

28 - 29 September

Time: 8am - Until end Place: Start from Borobudur Temple (Route: Borobudur - Kaliurang - Prambanan) Phone: 082136027578 Entrance Fee: Registration until 5 September, fee is IDR 650k, After 6 September, registration fee is IDR 750k Indonesia Trail Adventure 2013 is annual trail bike adventure across the country side. This year the event will be held in Jogjakarta with participants from all over the country. The registration fee includes the following: Merchandise, homestay, 2 meal/day, door prizes, and free private party. 28 September - 4 October

“Dolanan” #2

Time: 7pm Place: Jogja National Museum, Jl. Amri Yahya 1 Phone: 0274 7448911 Entrance Fee: Free Dolanan means playing with toys or playing in a game. Through Dolanan, we see the world through the eyes of a child, we are invited to reflect on the self and the world around us. This exhibition will be attended by artists from different regions. Artwork will come in many medians from 3D works, installations, and videos. Every Wednesday & Thurstday

Learning Classic Traditional Javanese Dance Time: Every Wednesday for women, (10am - 12pm) Every Saturday for men, (1pm - 3pm) Place: Pendopo/Kedaton Royal Heritage (Royal Ambarukmo Hotel) Jl. Laksda Adisucipto, No. 81 Phone: 0274 588025 Entrance Fee: Free Classic traditional javanese dance is a truly breathtaking art. Precise steps, poses, and gestures accompanied with magical gamelan music unite to form an exquisite story without words.

Jemparingan / Patehan

Every Friday

Time: 3pm - 6pm Place: Pendopo/Kedaton Royal Heritage (Royal Ambarukmo Hotel) Jl. Laksda Adisucipto No. 81 Phone: 0274 588025 Entrance Fee: Free Jemparingan and Patehan are traditional activities that take place at Yogyakarta Palace. Archers will sit cross legged and shoot an arrow towards far off the targets while the King (Sultan) watches and enjoys tea and snacks. This show is held every Friday and is a true piece of javanese cultural legacy. Every Tuesday, Thurstday & Saturday

Ramayana Ballet Prambanan Time: 9am Place: Taman Wisata Candi Prambanan Jl. Raya Yogya-Solo, Km. 16, Prambanan Phone : 0274 497771 / 0274 496408 Entrance Fee: IDR 100k - IDR 350k Cultural dance performance based on the Ramayana story. This theatrical dance and music performance takes place on the open stage at Prambanan Temple.

TOURIST