FASHION TRENDJOURNAL VOL. 7 FASH 503 Smalika Verma 20/05/2017
SLEEVESPLITS This year’s runway shows have been dominated by a variety of sleeve styles – raglan, lantern, puff, bell, bishop, balloon, batwing, epaulet, flounce, slashed, etc.
A lot goes into creating a detailed difference in something as simple as sleeves. The Spring Summer 2017 collections for most designers has been concentrated around statement sleeves. This season, designers are pushing sartorial boundaries with their hyper-visual and often playful configurations of sleeves. A Split Sleeve is exactly what it sounds like! It features a splice from the cuff up the sleeve till the elbow or beyond. Cuff splits range from just below the armpit to more considerate wrist-to-below-the-elbow cuts. Who What Wear has termed it as the ‘next big thing’.
Source: 1(WGSN A/W 17/18 – Oh Hey Girl), 2(Rebecca Madder in Once Upon A Time S06 2017), 3(Ralph Lauren) Images on Cover – Cushnie et Ochs
ORIGIN The history of sleeves dates back to the Early Medieval period. The Renaissance period - the women of the 15th and 16th century dressed in layers. They wore loose gowns over tight fitting underdresses. The sleeves of the top dress had slits, in order to show the colours of the second set of sleeves. The split sleeves were then found in the Turkish empire in 1800-1850 where the ladies from Istanbul would sport ornately designed and embroidered split sleeves as a part of the traditional costume. The one on the right was used in the Turkish play Bajazet.
Off and on splits in sleeves have been featured in the fashion industry. It is only very recent that the cuff splits are coming back on the runway staring Spring Summer 2017 in New York.
Source: 1(Queen Anne of Austria, Wikipedia Images), 2(Bajazet from Pinterest.com), 3(Details from Mary, Duchess of Burgundy)
RUNWAY The Spring Summer 2017 runway show at New York featured some big names incorporating the split sleeves into their ready-to-wear collections. Hellessy suggested that her collection was inspired by the ĂŠlan and aesthetic of the Amalfi Coast and the poolplunge images by the painter Eric Zener. She incorporated the sleeve split into knits and created the subtle yet impactful statement. Lacoste added the sleeve split in a more dramatic way, taking the split all the way up the shoulders. The colors used were very spring like. Michael Kors, Prabal Gurung and Narciso Rodriguez also approached the split sleeve in their own way and floored the runway with a variety of styles in casual, evening and formal looks.
Source: 1(Hellessey Spring 2017 RTW), 2(Lacoste Spring 2017), 3(Michael Kors 2017) 4(Prabal Gurung SS2017), 5(Narciso Rodriguez Fall 2017)
MICHAELKORS Michael Kors’ 2017 Collection features an array of split sleeves in different looks. From trench coats to belted blazers, formal suits and boyish argyle knits, MK added the subtle sleeve change that paved way for a burning split sleeve trend amongst the fashion followers. Kors gave his signature feminine/masculine plot line a ’40s-by-way-ofthe-‘80s twist to the upbeat collection.
Source: Michael Kors Spring 2017 RTW from Vogue.com and Business of Fashion
CELEBCHECK
While the celebrities and fashion icons are yet to warm up to the split sleeve trend, the style was spotted at WGSN’s Women Governor’s Ball in late 2016.
Source: WGSN Image Archive
RETAILSPECIAL
Topshop has an Asian - style split sleeve floral dress which has trickled down from the runway shows and has a very Geisha feel to it. Apart from that, brands like Dezzal and Natsumi have presented their versions of split sleeves in shift dresses and cape blazers respectively. LOÉIL Féte Sweater features the split sleeve in a super delicate manner, only covering the wrist and palm in a crewneck pink knit.
Source: 1(Dezzal), 2(Topshop), 3(LOÉIL), 4(Natsumi)
BIBLIOGRAPHY
• • • • • • •
"Vogue España." Devil Wears Zara. "Women's Clothing in the Era of the 1400s." EHow UK. Phelps, Nicole. "Michael Kors Collection Spring 2017 Ready-toWear Fashion Show." Vogue. Vogue, 14 Sept. 2016. Kliest, Nicole. "This Is the Next Generation of the Dramatic Sleeve Trend." WhoWhatWear. WhoWhatWear, 13 Jan. 2017. Carreon, Nikki Ogunnaike and Justine, and Leah Melby Clinton. "The Top Trends From Spring 2017 New York Fashion Week." ELLE. 10 May 2017. "SS17 Trend: It's a Sleeve Thing." TRENDWALK.net. 23 Oct. 2016. Brewer, Taylah. "How to Wear Statement Sleeves This Season." Fashion Trends and Style Blog. 09 Nov. 2016.
Source: Leo and Sage – WGSN