Flavor Magazine

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Pasjoli

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Dining | cocktails | Recipes | Farmers Markets


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Winter 2019/20


Winter 2019/20

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'TIS THE SEASON TO BUY CALIFORNIA GROWN Join us this holiday season at the Santa Monica Farmers Markets where you can find everything you need for the perfect meal.

JOIN OUR TEAM AND BECOME A VOLUNTEER OR INTERN Teach about farmers markets, healthy nutrition and fresh, local produce! www.farmersmarket.smgov.net | 310-458-8712

Four certified farmers markets from the City of Santa Monica.

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WEDNESDAYS 2nd and Arizona 8:00 am - 1:00 pm

SATURDAYS Virginia Ave. Park 8:00 am - 1:00 pm

SATURDAYS 3rd and Arizona 8:00 am - 1:00 pm

SUNDAYS 2640 Main Street 8:30 am - 1:30 pm

Winter 2019/20


contents features

quick hits

recipes

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READY FOR A STARRING ROLE Andy Doubrava of Rustic Canyon.

EDITOR’S PICK Katsu, loco moco and burgers are on fire at the Humble Potato.

PoMEGRANATE, VINAIGRETTE & GLAZE By Shaner Farms

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BEAUTIFUL DINING ON MAIN STREET Dave Beran’s Pasjoli redefines bistro dining.

30 MAKING WAVES ON WILSHIRE Koslow and Cámara elevate seafood true to LA’s roots.

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EXCEPTIONAL INGREDIENTS Since 1981, the Santa Monica Farmers Market inspires chefs from far and wide.

WINTER COCKTAILS For the cool and the thirsty.

19 A BURGER FOR EVERY BUDGET From $6.25 to $29, Santa Monica has no shortage of options.

44 WALKUP WINDOWS A funky and fun cluster of walkups in Venice Beach.

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GREAT DATES - DOWNTOWN SANTA MONICA The perfect setting for an epic date.

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On the cover: One of the many beautiful dishes from Pasjoli. See our review on page 24. Photo: Christian Seel

ALL ABOARD Fine dining with the ultimate ocean view. Jessica Koslow (R) and Gabriela Cámara of Onda. See page 30.

36 JAMACIAN VEGETARIAN CABBAGE By Donna Brow

37 NANA’S PERSIMMON PUDDING By Murray Family Farms


From the Publishers In a world dominated by smartphones and earbuds, the oldschool definition of social activity is increasingly rare. One of the last bastions of civil interaction is mealtime and it’s no surprise that as people look for meaningful engagement in their lives, a thriving food culture has emerged in nearly all parts of the country. We are blessed to live along the California coast and have yearround access to high quality, naturally produced food via our many farmers markets (including the granddaddy of them all: the Downtown Santa Monica Farmers Market). When you combine the availability of superior ingredients with the creative heartbeat that is Los Angeles, it’s no surprise we have so many wonderful dining options at our disposal. This magazine seeks to highlight and connect you to the best places to go for a meal or a cocktail from Malibu to LAX and beyond. In addition, we want to encourage your creativity via great recipes and preferred purveyors of the freshest, tastiest ingredients. So, sit back and get inspired. Let’s eat!

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Publishers Editor Staff Writers Contributing Writer Photographic Director Senior Designer Operations Manager Advertising Director Account Executive Intern Leftovers Beneficiary

To place advertisements in Flavor Magazine contact the advertising department at 310-458-7737, or email any one of our staff to request a media kit.

Flavor Magazine is a quarterly magazine distributed as an insert in the Santa Monica Daily Press, at select restaurants, bars, high traffic locations throughout the Westside of Los Angeles, and at at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX). Flavor Magazine is printed locally on recycled paper using soy based inks. Flavor Magazine’s mission is to provide Los Angeles-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry.

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Winter 2019 • Volume 1 • Issue 1

To carry Flavor Magazine at your store, restaurant, bar or place of business contact Cindy Moreno at 310-573-8074, or email cindy@ smdp.com

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Ross Furukawa Todd James Matt Hall Madeleine Pauker Brennon Dixson Tatiana Blackington James Peter Augustin Esteban Moreno Cindy Moreno Jennifer Rice Rose Mann Tony McGinn Buddy

Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits. All contents of Flavor Magazine are copyright ©2019 by Newlon Rouge, LLC. The Flavor name and logo are both registered to the publisher, Newlon Rouge LLC. Reproduction or other use, in whole or in part, of the contents without permission of the publisher is strictly prohibited. While the information has been compiled carefully to ensure maximum accuracy at the time of publication, it is provided for general guidance only and is subject to change. The publisher cannot guarantee the accuracy of all information or be responsible for omissions or errors. Additional copies may be obtained by providing a request at 310-458-7737 or via mail. Postage fee of $3.50 will apply.

Winter 2019/20


Experience the Local Flavor ONLY AT THE MIRAMAR

NOVEMBER 28 | Thanksgiving Dinner, fesTive holiDay favoriTes DECEMBER 25 | ChrisTmas Dinner, TraDiTional fig fare DECEMBER 31 | new year’s eve aT fig resTauranT, lobby lounge & The bungalow ALL YEAR ROUND | LocaLLy Sourced SeaSonaL FavoriteS At the corner of Ocean & Wilshire figsantamonica.com | 310.319.3111 Winter 2019/20

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COMMUNITY. SUSTAINABILITY. SEAFOOD. THEALBRIGHT.COM | 310.394.9683 258 SANTA MONICA PIER, SANTA MONICA, CA 90401

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@THEALBRIGHTSM

@THEALBRIGHT

Winter 2019/20


Editor’s Pick

While “seasons” in Los Angeles is a relative term, temperatures do drop a little, occasionally water does fall from the sky and a cloud has been known to appear. However, food is often the strongest indicator of the season. Coffee shops are transitioning from Pumpkin Spice lattes to Peppermint Mochas. Pozole and tamales are taking over chalkboards in restaurants

Winter 2019/20

across the region. Butternut squash is being mashed, roasted and fried on a daily basis. For me, nothing is quite as comforting in the Winter as a good curry and I’m particularly fond of the Japanese style. Humble Potato in Culver City offers several satisfying curry delivery systems including fries, katsu, loco

moco and their award-winning burger. All are excellent but I gravitate to an order of curry fries (with or without the egg) as a tableshared appetizer and the katsu plate as an entrée. Humble Potato: 12608 Washington Blvd B Los Angeles humblepotato.com

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Winter Cocktails

Cooler temperatures bring a different kind of thirst 10

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Winter 2019/20 Photo: Matt Hall


Cocchi Old Fashioned Cafe del Rey 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina Del Rey cafedelreymarina.com Cozy up with some winter cocktails that will make you want to curl up by the fire at iconic Marina Del Rey restaurant, Cafe Del Rey. Whether you’re stopping by for happy hour in the lounge (from 3pm-6pm daily), or coming in for lunch or an intimate dinner spent harborside, look no further than Cafe del Rey’s Cocchi Old Fashioned cocktail to pair perfectly with the elevated New American coastal fare. Featuring orange, luxardo, cherries, Cocchi di Torino Vermouth, and Basil Hayden’s Bourbon, the Cocchi Old Fashioned ($14) is the winter libation you’ll want to cozy up with this winter season, all while enjoying fresh seafood, house-made desserts and killer ambiance to match.

The Winter Continental Ingo’s Tasty Diner 1213 Wilshire Blvd, Santa Monica ingostastydiner.com

Peppertini Orto 502 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica ortosantamonica.com Orto means vegetable garden and we wanted to experiment with something that would stand out. The drink has some citrus and it’s sweet but very well balanced. You can taste the thyme too which is important because all of our drinks have an herb. Thyme is usually something used for proteins but the pepper is hearty and needs an herb that can stand up to it. I think it’s great to have with something salty like our charcuterie or the fritto misto. —Andrea Inio

The Winter Continental at Ingo’s is a seasonal take on a classic New York Sour. The popular cocktail is making a return to the restaurant’s menu after a few years of vacation and contains Buffalo Trace Bourbon, allspice dram, fresh lemon, brown sugar and a float of central coast Syrah. The contrasting purple and orange catch the eyes of passers-by and the notes of cinnamon, clove and dried orange peel evoke thoughts of watching snowfall while sitting near a fireplace. It’s an experience residents don’t always get in Santa Monica, and the same could be said for this seasonal drink.

The Doctor is In The Misfit 225 Santa Monica Blvd, Santa Monica themisfitbar.com The Doctor is In is The Misfit’s take on a traditional toddy, which is a beverage long considered to be a home remedy for the common cold. Using Santa Monica Farmers Market apples, bourbon, lemon and a comforting, liqueur made by Leopold Bros. in Denver, CO, The Doctor is In is one of the restaurant’s most popular seasonal cocktails. The Doctor is comprised of botanicals found in the Rocky Mountains, which contribute to the drink’s piney, herbaceous scent, and makes patrons recall the last time they kicked off their boots in a ski lodge somewhere much colder than Santa Monica. Winter 2019/20

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Never Old Fashioned Chez Jay 1657 Ocean Ave, Santa Monica chezjays.com With its combination of smooth smoky-sweet spiced rye, orange peel and dark cherry, the Never Old Fashioned is a drink that will warm the soul and make Santa Monica residents feel cozy all winter long. Restaurant staff suggests the cocktail is the perfect drink to sip while bundled up by the fire, but it’s even better under the stars at The Backyard at Chez Jay in Downtown Santa Monica.

Right Time, Wrong Place Neat 11780 W Pico Blvd, Los Angeles www.neat.la When inspiration struck Arash Farzaneh on a hot summer day, he knew the combination of almond, fresh-squeezed lemon, a quality rum and spice from ginger and cinnamon would be a home run. However, he also realized the drink was a winter tipple. The mismatch turned out to be part of the drink’s success as it provided a name for the nontraditional sour: Right Place, Wrong Time. The Pico cocktail lounge has staked a reputation on classic bar culture by welcoming folks new and old with a selection of handmade drinks served in an environment that encourages personal connections.

Horchata Margarita SOL 12775 Millennium Dr #160, Playa Vista solcocina.com

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House-made Horchata shaken and strained with Los Sundays Reposado Tequila, 1921 Crema Tequila, dusted with cinnamon. At SOL, we are very proud of our house-made horchata, as it's something that is made fresh every day. For those unfamiliar, Horchata is traditionally a Rice Milk, blended or infused with Vanilla and Cinnamon. We do use some whole milk in our horchata in addition to the rice milk which gives it a creamier texture for the cocktail. Mixed with tequila, it is easily our most popular Fall/Winter cocktail and you can catch someone drinking them nightly by our fire pit at Sol Cocina. Often times we are told “it tastes like Christmas.” Flavor Magazine

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Elixir G Better Ginger. Better Environment.

House-made inger Beer Add a splash of Elixir G Ginger Mix to lemon-lime soda to make fantastic ginger beer. Purchase Elixir G on our website:

www.elixirg.com Social Media:

Instagram: @elixirginger Facebook: elixirginger

Live Well. 0.5 Oz. Elixir G Cocktail Mix 4 Oz. Lemon-Lime Soda

Santa Monica Bars and Restaurants: Contact us for a free bottle. (310) 319-6236 | bill@elixirg.com

Ginger Beer. Enjoy.

1 bottle makes 2 cases of ginger beer.

, s n o i t a l u t a r Cong

UPPER WEST RESTAURANT

2019 Neighborhood to Nation Regional Winner! Nick Shipp, executive chef and partner at Upper West Restaurant, is a Neighborhood to Nation winner for his Lamb Chili Bolognese with Macaroni and Whipped Goat Cheese. The dish is an innovative take on chili that’s perfect for fall and winter—try it today! theupperwest.com 3321 W Pico Blvd. Santa Monica, CA @theupperwest (310) 586-1111 generalmillscf.com/resources/neighborhood-to-nation

Winter 2019/20

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Andy Doubrava of Rustic Canyon is

Ready for a Starring Role by Brennon Dixson

A decorated New York chef heads west to take his game to the next level.

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eading a Michelin-starred restaurant would be a stressful task for most, but it’s a piece of cake, or at least as enjoyable as one, for Andy Doubrava, Executive Chef at one Santa Monica’s most prestigious establishments. Step into Rustic Canyon on an autumn evening and you might mistake it for a party, Doubrava says, describing the mood and energy of the night with words as colorful as the plates he constructs. Some customers come from as far as overseas; others live in the neighborhood and stop by as often as their spouses will allow. In the years since the restaurant’s opening, Rustic Canyon has become known for its

unique and creative meals comprised of locally sourced ingredients and daily menu changes. It earned a Michelin Star in 2019 when the guide returned to California. This is the standard that Doubrava has sought to uphold since he took over earlier this year. The Ivy League dropout and former musician remembers a time when life wasn’t always as sweet as his lemon sorbet. “I f–ed up a lot of things in my life.” Doubrava said on a recent October afternoon, remembering a time when he was studying English in an effort to become a teacher. “I was kind of in a gray area for a while but I had always played the drums.” The 20-something Doubrava joined a

mildly successful band in New York while he plotted his next step. “Long story short, I had been thinking about going to culinary school because it seemed, for me at least, that I had kind of a natural knack for it,” Doubrava said. “I had been working at a beer distributor trying to ‘find my way’ and finally made the decision to go to school and move to (New York) City. At the same time, I tore my rotator cuff and had to quit the band so it all kind of worked out in a weirdly dark way.” After graduating in the top 10% of his high school class and dropping out of a “few” different colleges, including two prestigious music schools, Doubrava said he found

Winter 2019/20


“Culinary school was the first thing aside from high school that I actually gave it my all,” Doubrava said. “As far as the English thing went, it was what other people wanted me to do, and music school — for whatever reason — I felt I was better on my own. But when it came to food, for the first time in my life, I really gave a shit… and it just felt good to cook for a living.” When he started at the French institute, Doubrava attended class in the mornings and worked five days a week at Reynard, a Brooklyn restaurant, then a second job at a Long Island beer distributor on the weekends. Eventually, he joined Reynard’s former sous chef at The Spotted Pig, a Michelin-starred restaurant in New York. “That was crazy,” Doubrava said. “It was minimum wage, and I lived in deep, deep, deep Brooklyn — a really bad area — because that’s all I could afford; I worked 12 hours a day, took one of the most dangerous trains in New York to get home at 4 in the morning because (at that) place, when you’re a line cook, you get there at two and you don’t go home until three or four in the

morning. “So basically you get home, you fall asleep and you go to work,” Doubrava added, stating: “There was a lot of drinking at the end of the shift, which is normal out there. And it was rough and really hard. I got moved up really quickly there, but that place really gave me a lot of anxiety.” Feeling like everybody was trying to stab you in the back at every moment was not what he would describe as an ideal workplace, so Doubrava soon made his way to Salt and Fat, a tiny restaurant in Queens that was “very unique.” “The restaurant was open six days a week and we all worked open to close every day,” Doubrava said. “And I loved every moment of it. That place changed my life.” Doubrava was promoted to Sous Chef in two months. By the time he had celebrated half a year at the establishment, he was promoted to Head Chef. During his tenure, Doubrava helped the restaurant earn the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand, “which is one step under receiving a star, and we got that three years in a row,” he said. The young and ambitious chef soon realized that he was pretty successful but in need of a mentor.

Photo: Elise Freimuth

a home in the kitchen when he enrolled in the French Culinary Institute in 2011.

“Jeremy Fox, our chef-owner here and my big-brother-slashmentor, posted something on Instagram,” Doubrava said, “and I think I sent him 30 messages on Instagram and another dozen emails before he eventually got back to me and we set something up.”

White Yams Photo: Jakob Layman Winter 2019/20

Shortly thereafter, Doubrava flew to Los Angeles for the first time and stayed at an AirBnB near downtown Santa Monica.

“I was still on East Coast time and I woke up at 6 in the morning so I walked down from the ocean,” and happened upon the famous Downtown Santa Monica Farmer’s Market. “I’m looking at the farm stands and I realize this is where we fly produce to New York from,” Doubrava said, smiling as he remembers the joy he felt. “Like Harry’s Berries -- all of the big restaurants out there

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use Harry’s Berries and this is where it is. And now four, five years later all of those farmers are my friends,” he added. “I text back-and-forth with them to see what’s coming up. They invite me to their house and to their farms and it’s really just been a whirlwind of positivity here,” probably the biggest difference between New York and California kitchens, according to the Boston native. “I don’t know if it’s just (Rustic Canyon) because this is the only restaurant I’ve ever worked at in California, but in this kitchen, we are super collaborative and we all have each others’ backs. But in New York — at least in my experience — it was the opposite,” Doubrava said. “Everybody is beating each other up and everybody is talking

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Photo: Emily Hart Roth

(trash), which is why I just can’t help but think, ‘Life is good. I’m so good here.’”

Rustic Canyon WHERE 1119 Wilshire Blvd Santa Monica 310.393.7050 rusticcanyonrestaurant.com WHEN Sun - Thurs: 5:30pm - 10:30pm Fri - Sat: 5:30pm - 11:00pm

Grilled Figs with Avocado & Trout Roe

PRICES Appetizers $17-$22 Entrees $37-44

A chalkboard features an impressive array of wines by the glass.

Photo: Elise Freimuth

COCKTAILS Full Bar PARKING Valet

Winter 2019/20


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Big Dean’s double cheeseburger never fails to please

A Burger for Every Budget Winter 2019/20

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Big Dean’s

Great burgers are a staple of life in Southern California. From roadside stands to fine dining establishments, there’s no shortage of options at price points ranging from a few bucks to gourmet entree. Here are a few of our favorites:

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$8.75

Occupying its space by the pier since 1971, Big Dean’s burger is no secret to Santa Monica residents. With its traditional sesame seed bun and two fresh, never frozen patties weighing 5.33 ounces each, the burger may seem simple, however, restaurant staff said it’s anything but. Its classic homemade thousand island sauce, secret marinade and two slices of cheese pair perfectly with the suggested grilled onions and pickle spear that comes on the side.

A Cut Above $13.25 A Cut Above is a Santa Monica butcher shop so it’s not always the first place that comes to mind when searching online for a bite, but those who frequent the establishment believe A Cut Above possesses one of the best burgers on the Westside. Complete with Point Reyes bleu cheese, tomato, carmelized onions, lettuce, Russian dressing, the customer’s choice of grass-fed meat — short rib, ribeye and brisket — the burger may be tough to finish in one sitting. Luckily, patrons are able to purchase 8-ounce uncooked patties and brioche buns to enjoy at home.

HiHo Cheeseburger $10.95 The first and only burger restaurant exclusively serving 100% grass-fed Wagyu Beef, HiHo Cheeseburger uses traditional, carefully selected ingredients to craft a mustard-grilled burger that’s complete with cheese, ketchup, onion jam, lettuce and house-made pickles. Those looking for a plant-based option can try their outstanding vegetarian patty that’s made in-house from a blend of grains, legumes, and spices.

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Pier Burger $6.25 With a prime location on the Santa Monica Pier, Pier Burger is a popular destination for the thousands of tourists who frequent the boardwalk, but staff said the burger is a local favorite as well. Known as the “last burger on land,” the Pier Burger offers a smashed patty or, if requested two, made from 100% Certified Angus Beef. Lettuce, tomato, housemade sauce and American cheese accompany the burger to provide the ultimate no-fuss meal that your wallet will thank you for later.

Wally’s $29 Described as mouth-wateringly delicious and absolutely decadent, the Wally Burger at Wally’s Restaurant is made with high-quality ingredients that are sure to leave an impression on your taste buds. Containing Wagyu Beef, old Amsterdam cheese, heirloom tomato, caramelized onions, lettuce, Wally’s “sauce” and housemade ketchup, the local burger is served with the restaurant’s famous pomme fries and is among the best burgers that fine dining has to offer.

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Michelin Stars Live Here Santa Monica is a city known for its weather and beaches. It’s a place known internationally for its fitness culture and entertainment industry ties. However, the city’s best kept secret may be its rapidly evolving food scene. The City By The Sea has always had a strong restaurant culture and the sheer number of places to eat out should earn it a reputation for gluttony if nothing else. More than 400 establishments are licensed to serve food within the eight square miles that make up the City’s borders. That breaks down to 50 per mile, more than enough to allow a local to eat somewhere new every single day for a year and still not make the entire round. Much of that food culture is enhanced by the world-renowned farmers markets and it’s the sym-

biosis between eaters, cooks and producers that has elevated the city from a place of quantity to a destination of quality. “Earlier this summer, top restaurant critics recognized seven Santa Monica restaurants in the newly launched 2019 MICHELIN GUIDE CALIFORNIA,” said Santa Monica Travel & Tourism President/CEO Misti Kerns. “The famous Michelin stars identify establishments serving the highest quality cuisine – taking into account the quality of the ingredients, the mastery of techniques and flavors, the levels of creativity and consistency.” Standouts on the list were Dialogue and Rustic Canyon who both received one-star distinctions. Chinois on Main, The Lobster, Lunetta and Michael’s were included

as a Michelin Plate, indicating good cooking, fresh ingredients, capably prepared, or simply a good meal. Cassia won a Bib Gourmand Award, which indicates inspectors’ favorites for good value and the French/Asian fusion restaurant is an example of the way local food entrepreneurs are acwtually advancing the business of eating. Delivery services are now a major force in the restaurant world and data shows local clientele are more likely to want something brought to their home while visitors want a sitdown dinner experience. Those two styles of eating do not always mesh but Cassia has found a new way to bridge that gap by developing two menus within the single kitchen. Cassia Rice and Noodle Kitchen is a delivery only menu with dishes that are specifically designed to hold their

Santa Monica is home to custom wood smoking businesses, coconut sugar sellers, a ginger concentrate company and an emoji coffee pod startup. It’s also a place of change due to both palete shifts and economic pressures. There’s an influx of Asian cuisine that has rapidly filled Santa Monica’s bowls with all the ramen you can eat and the growing diversity of food is good for the city. The ever-eager restaurateurs are constantly adding depth to the breadth of options, making the city a hub for hungry diners.

Gilbert's El Indio

MO'S PLACE

Cocktails, Great Food and Friends.

quality while in transit. It’s the kind of thinking that applies the city’s spirit of innovation to an unexpected industry and it’s not limited to restaurants.

Open Breakfast - Lunch - Dinner daily specials • delicious cocktails • catering

Family owned since 1974

Plus, th e best Mond ay N ig h t Fo ot ba l l party in t own. Come j oin u s f or p riz e s and f un.

COLLEGE FOOTBALL, PRO FOOTBALL AND ALL SPORTS, ALWAYS ON. BILLIARDS, DARTS AND LOCALS Open every day. 203 Culver Boulevard | Playa Del Rey 310-822-6422

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(310) 450-8057 gilbertselindio.com

2526 W. Pico Boulevard Santa Monica, CA 90405 Winter 2019/20


DINING IN THE DARK Imagine, just for an hour or two that you cannot see, that you are abandoning vision for a more stimulating dining experience – this is “Dining in the Dark”. Food is served to you by blind or visually impaired waiters in a pitch-black dining room.

RESERVATIONS FROM 5:30PM-8:30PM | THURSDAY-SATURDAY DARKDINING.COM | 310-546-7619 | INSIDE SENATOR JONES

SANTA MONICA'S PREMIER NIGHTCLUB Available for Private Events/Corporate Parties/Film Shoots/Catering

2020 WILSHIRE BLVD. | SANTA MONICA | INFO@SENATORJONES.LA Winter 2019/20

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Pasjoli A beautiful addition to Santa Monica’s Main Street dining scene. by Tatiana Blackington James

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I

t seems impossible, but for several months before the opening of Pasjoli, there was not a single French restaurant in Santa Monica. Mélisse had shut its doors for a renovation and a reimagining. Then in May, Le Petit Café closed for good. An online search for French cuisine brought up only one result, Massilia, which hardly qualifies. Their menu is more of a North African – Mediterranean medley. As pleasant as Massilia may be, a ratatouille here and a steak frites there do not a French restaurant make.

So what possessed Daniel Beran to plunk down his antique duck press in the land of kale and kombucha? After a location in downtown L.A. fell through, Beran took over the old Bareburger space on Main Street. The downtown restaurant was to be named Jolie (pretty in French). The current location became Pasjoli (not pretty). Read another way, it could also mean a pretty step, and so far, the latter translation is more apt. After cooking whatever he pleased at the tasting-menu only Dialogue, hidden away on the Third Street Promenade,

Beran has pivoted to a more traditional customer- and neighborhood-focused experience. The midnight blue façade might have been lifted from one of the tonier Paris arrondissements, but located in Silicon Beach, Pasjoli draws a healthy share of younger diners. The expansive marble bar -- where one can order from the full menu -- boasts a happening happy hour. Like most new restaurants, this one eschews tablecloths and cushions for brick, wood, and even exposed overhead pipes. The surfaces don’t absorb much noise, and while the soft lighting and painted murals add romance, the space could be a little warmer, both literally and figuratively. Women in sleeveless dresses will find it over air-conditioned, and if ever a place called for an LBD, it’s this one.

My evening began with an unusual but perfect cocktail, the melon du ferme, made with cantaloupe, rhum, vermouth, lemon and mint. I was delighted to see in the appetizers a scallop quenelle, a uniquely French creation that is not often served stateside. It arrived bathed in a light buerre blanc dotted with caviar, its yielding texture and layered flavors making it everything I’d hoped. The baguette, from Bubs and Grandma’s bakery, was the best I’ve had anywhere in the city. Unlike most French restaurants, Pasjoli serves it with butter. The pairing is listed under “hors d’oeuvres” and deserves to be, as it is good enough to be an appetizer all by itself. It wasn’t until my second visit that I dared order the pâté en croûte. Like Longfellow’s girl with the curl, when pâté is good, it is very good indeed, but

thon et tomate Photo by Christian Seel

So what does? Twenty-five or 30 years ago, the answer was obvious: escargots served with funny tongs, vichyssoise

and sole meunière atop a white tablecloth. The staples may have been arbitrary, without any sense of regionality, but you could count on them at places like Chez Mimi, which closed in 2010. The clientele was loyal and very, very old. Young Californians, it seemed, were not interested in French cooking.

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The biggest standout among the appetizers is the caviar... For those who value experiences over things, the presentation is worth it.

Photo: Wonho Lee

when it is bad, it is horrid. The slice presented was a palette of rich mauve framed with golden gelée that quivered like a zone of liquefaction. It tasted as spectacular as it looked, both earthy and fresh. Management confided that it wasn’t selling well however, and risked being struck from the menu. I hope diners overcome their hesitation as I did, as it could restore their faith in what pâté can be.

next to a clump of green beans looked naked on the plate. Nothing extra was needed it turned out, but if you enjoy spectacle, pre-order the duck for two. If you’re lucky, Beran himself might man the gorgeous brass press and emulsify the sauce with duck blood at your table. I tried asking him about French chefs’ undying love for this apparatus but he shushed me – gently -- so he could fully concentrate on the stirring.

The biggest standout among the appetizers is the caviar (sustainably raised), which is served beautifully but unpretentiously with potato chips and various sauces. An ounce, which is a larger amount than you might expect, costs $85 and serves two. For those who value experiences over things, the presentation is worth it. The only starter that failed to impress was the crab with cauliflower sauce. I couldn’t taste the sorrel that came with it, but wanted to as the crab was a little fishy.

Vegetarians will feel respected as the meatless selections are both thoughtful and satisfying, notably the buckwheat crepes with mushrooms and white beans, a rich winter comfort food.

I’ve become so conditioned to foams and smears and drizzles decorating my second course that a piece of turbot Winter 2019/20

Pasjoli WHERE

2732 Main Street Santa Monica pasjoli.com

WHEN

Monday through Sunday 5:30 pm – 10:00 pm PRICES

Appetizers $19-$36 Entrees $36-54 (prices include gratuity)

As my spoon cracked the surface of a chocolate soufflé, I felt both nostalgic and grateful. Here was a place with knowledgeable, professional staff that venerated uniquely French culinary triumphs. Maybe not all of them, and maybe it’s going it alone, but if Santa Monica can only have one French restaurant, I want it to be Pasjoli.

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The Happiest Hours

oninStreet

Ma

A W O R L D A W AY F R O M T H E O R D I N A R Y, A B L O C K A W AY F R O M T H E B E A C H . STELLA BARRA PIZZERIA 2000 Main Street

LA VECCHIA 2654 Main Street

ENTERPRISE FISH CO. 174 Kinney Street

310.396.9250 4-6pm Daily $6 wine/ $5 red & white sangria / $6 cocktails select appetizers

310.399.7979 5-7pm Mon-Sat $6 house wine / $5 beer $6-$9 salads, pizzas, pastas + more

DHABA CUISINE OF INDIA 2104 Main Street

JAMESON’S IRISH PUB 2702 Main Street

310.392.8366 4-7pm Daily & 9-11pm Fri & Sat $5.50 - $7.50 wines & draft beer oysters, pot stickers, Cajun shrimp + more

310.399.9452 6-7pm Wed-Fri $5 draft beer / $7 wine

JIN JINYA RAMEN BAR 2400 Main Street 310.392.4466 3-5pm Mon-Fri select appetizers

LITTLE PRINCE 2424 Main Street 31 310.356.0725 5:30 - 7pm Monday - Friday $9 cocktails & house wine / 25% oo all bottles of wine from 5:30pm Sundays.

TIPSY CHEF 2435 Main Street 310.450.3434 4-6pm Daily $7 well drinks / $7 wine / $2 oo draft beer $6-$18 select appetizers

THE GALLEY 2442 Main Street 310.452.1934 5-7pm Mon-Sat / Sun 1-7pm $7 well drinks / $7 house wine / $5 beer calamari, tacos + more

424.330.0069 3-8pm Daily & 10:30-12:30pm Sun-Thurs - All drinks 2-for-1 Jameson Brew Pints for $3.89 Daily Bot Bottomless Weekends - Friday-Sunday open-3pm bottomless bloody marys/ mimosas, and bellinis

POKECEVICHE 2715 Main Street 805-229-1767 3-6pm Daily $1 mango slushie / $2-$5 on select appetizers

310.450.5522 6-8pm Thur-Sat $5 well drinks & wine / $4 beers $4-$5 small plates, $6 - $7 sliders + more

ASHLAND HILL 2807 Main Street 31 310.392.3300 3-6pm Mon-Fri $6 well drinks / wine / beer $4 sweet potato fries + more

RICK’S TAVERN 2907 Main Street 31 310.392.2772 4-7pm Mon-Fri $5 well drinks / house wines / draft beers $4.50 waae fries, $6.50 nachos + more

310.399.0743 Friday Night Only 6:30-8pm whi champagne / white, rose & red wine not on happy hour - cheese & charcuterie plates

31 310.314.4855 11:30-6:00pm Mon-Fri $5 draft beer / $6 wine $3.50-$7 select appetizers: tacos, sliders + more

MANCHEGO 2518 Main Street

TSUKIJI SUSHI SEN 2915 Main Street

310.396.2469 5-8pm Daily well drinks / wines / beers select appetizers

31TEN LOUNGE 3110 Main Street

310.392.5711 1-6pm Mon-Fri / 10pm-2 am Fri & Sat $7 select appetizers / $7 drinks / $5 draft beer

LIBRARY ALEHOUSE 2911 Main Street

VICTORIAN / BASEMENT TAVERN 2640 Main Street

310.450.0508 9-11pm Daily $6 well drinks / $4 domestic beers

LULA COCINA MEXICANA 2720 Main Street

THE PLACE TO BE 2510 B Main Street

310.450.3900 5-6:30pm Daily $8 sangria / $8 house wine $6-$8 appetizers appeti

THE CIRCLE BAR 2926 Main Street

310.581.3525 3-6:30pm Mon-Thurs / 3-6pm Fri Mon oysters, sesame chicken bites + more

PBLC TRDE 2917 Main Street PBLC TRDE 310.399.0805 3-6pm Daily $6 draft beer / $10 house wines $12 pasta, $12-$15 pizzas + more

www.Mainstreetsm.com

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Photo: DYLAN + JENI

Onda Makes Waves Acclaimed chefs Jessica Koslow and Gabriela Cámara are known throughout the state of California thanks to the internationally renowned restaurants they head in San Francisco, Los Angeles and Mexico City. Though the two have known each other for some time, there was never a plan to work together until the pair partnered to open Onda, one of Santa Monica’s newest restaurants.

by Brennon Dixson

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When translated from Spanish to English, onda means “wave” — which is fitting because the chefs said the restaurant is a result of a shared wavelength between their styles and perspectives.

“It’s a restaurant of Los Angeles,” Koslow said, describing how Onda’s dishes are fundamentally Mexican but utilize special ingredients and techniques to create unique flavors that emphasize the cultural crossover between Southern California and Mexico City. Origin When the Proper Hotel invited Koslow to view the historic 1930’s Spanish Colonial landmark building adjacent to the hotel and only seven blocks from the ocean, “it felt foundationally seafaring and in some ways Mexican,” Koslow said, “so I called Gabby and said I know this seems wild

but we have to work together.” It’s almost as if the building chose what was going to be in it, Koslow added, speaking on the restaurant’s ability to fit the needs of the local neighborhood. “It’s the type of restaurant that people seek out when they think of visiting a big city,” Cámara said, noting that it serves many purposes and is a good place to enjoy a date, afternoon cocktail or celebration. “It’s a neighborhood restaurant but it’s also state of the art in terms of the sustainability and what it features on the menu.” Having spent more than two decades Winter 2019/20


in the local area, Koslow and Cámara have both come to appreciate Santa Monica’s surrounding scenery. “I have a really deep connection with the ocean for as long as I can remember,” Cámara said, a significant reason why Onda ensures every dish is crafted with sustainable ingredients. Koslow remembers having to drive a U-Haul across town to the world-renowned farmers markets of Santa Monica to transport the products that would later be used to craft her menu at Sqirl. Now she and Cámara have to only travel a few blocks to source the fruits, vegetables and proteins that will later be fused into Onda’s dishes. Not all ingredients come from the local markets but Cámara said the pair does their best to ensure that even the items coming from overseas are up to par with their environmental philosophies. “It’s really about humanity and it’s something that we give a lot of thought to here,” Koslow said. “It’s really not something we talk about or hype up because we feel it’s something that should be innate in the culture that we’re developing at the restaurant.” Koslow and Cámara both envision the restaurant one day serving breakfast and lunch, but for now, the 120 seats inside of Onda are available for dinner and drinks. As for the recommended dishes, the co-executive chefs said that depends on the occasion. “There’s a lot of food here you won’t see anywhere else,” Koslow said as she listed an assortment of starters along with the restaurant’s selection of entrees. Whether it’s the Fish Hiding in Kelp entree, the Inside Out Turkey Quesadilla or the sustainable seafood offerings sourced from the Pacific Ocean, Koslow said, “I will say there are already a number of capable dishes that are iconic to this restaurant.”

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Flavor Magazine | Photo: DYLAN + JENI


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Farm Fresh

by Brennon Dixson

E

stablished in 1981, Santa Monica’s Wednesday farmers market opened downtown with the goal to provide reasonably priced, high-quality produce to the city's growing population.

continued on page 34

Alex Weiser, Weiser Family Farms Photo: Peter Augustin Winter 2019/20

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Nearly two decades later, the market not only provides fresh fruits, vegetables and meats to local residents, it also serves dozens of Southern California food stylists and chefs — and over time has become the backbone of the local culinary scene. Show up downtown on an early Wednesday morning — sometimes before the sun has risen — and it’s likely you’ll spot carts full of seasonal produce behind local chefs rushing to and from each stand in an effort to nab the most aesthetic offerings. “This is one of the best markets probably in the U.S. because we have access to some of the best produce and some of the greatest weather on earth, so this where everybody wants to be,” said Caleb Chen, who was recently at the market shopping for the eatery Wolvesmouth. Despite the multi-hour commute from Glendale, Chen has visited the market on an almost weekly basis for 10 years — and every week, nearly a hundred farmers, butchers and vendors come to the intersection of Arizona Avenue and 2nd Street to provide the latest seasonal, organic ingredients. This means relationships play a key role in the success of an establishment’s menu. “Talking to the farmers helps give us an idea for how to plan our menus because they know exactly what’s coming in, how much and when,” Chen said. “It’s important because you want to be able to find product that’s consistently coming in because if it’s not, then it’s hard to really plan a menu that you can rely on.” Chen said the change in seasons is traditionally one of the toughest times to design a menu because the colorful melons, peaches and fruits of the summer start to become increasingly scarce as temperatures decrease. To weather the change, chefs must be creative in their selections. “For us, we use a lot of color in our dishes,” and obviously take advantage of staples like potatoes, brussel sprouts and herbs that are still around, Chen said. “Today, I found some cucumbers called mouse melons that look exactly like shrunk down watermelons. They’re a little tart, so we’ll do that with a quail dish, with maybe an Alabama white BBQ sauce,” and some other goodies.

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But Chen isn’t the only out-of-towner who knows the secrets of Santa Monica’s markets. A two-woman team representing an online business that designs and sells artisanal charcuterie and cheese boards also frequents the local market to comb over the offered commodities. “Our business runs on seasonal produce,” Shelby DiMarco said, peeping over visitors’ heads to eye the different fruits available. From figs to plums to Asian pears, DiMarco had multiple carts stuffed with goods during a recent market trip, but she waited until the final booth of the day to pick up the golden raspberries that will help this week’s board stand out in a cluttered online marketplace. “When you think about the farmers market, you think about chefs, but there are so many other food-related businesses here,” said Downtown Market Manager Jackie Rivera-Krouse, mentioning the food photographers and stylists in attendance. “And I think because of the culture here in L.A., food has become a very visual and fascinating aspect, so I think a lot of chefs are responding to that.” Santa Monica’s Downtown Wednesday Market has a reputation of being the chef ’s market, Lowe said, “because it’s held in the middle of the week and I think because we have so many producers here compared to any of the markets.” “We’re primarily a produce-driven market,” Rivera-Krouse said, but vendors from as far as Northern California packed their pick-up trucks to make the trip, so it’s also possible for visitors to get their hands on potted plants, fresh milk, thanksgiving turkeys and even duck eggs. “Many of the other markets (in Santa Monica) will have different features,” like kettle corn stands or even live music, but the downtown market is all about the food, according to Rivera-Krouse. “It’s a different vibe but we really do our due diligence to make sure all of our vendors are high integrity and grow what they sell,” she said, adding, “It’s great because you know when you come here, you’re getting the best.”

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Winter’s Glaze

Photo: Jennifer Rice

POMEGRANATE VINAIGRETTE & GLAZE by Shaner Farms

BEETS WITH POMEGRANATE VINAIGRETTE

POMEGRANATE SYRUP

2 T pomegranate syrup 2 T Balsamic vinegar 2 T plus, olive oil 1 clove garlic, minced (optional) Kosher salt & pepper to taste A variety of beets, roasted, peeled and sliced or cut into wedges Arugula

Ingredient: Pure pomegranate juice Bring the juice to a steady boil over high heat. Reduce heat to maintain a steady simmer and cook, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. After 20-30 minutes the juice will begin to thicken. Keep cooking until the consistency is syrupy and the thickness you like. The reduction is rich and thick at 25 – 35% of the original amount of juice. Let cool. Pour into a jar. It will keep refrigerated for up to 6 months! Winter 2019/20

Once you have the syrup, you can play with the additional ingredients to make all sorts of dressings, glazes & sauces. For this dish, start with equal amounts of syrup and vinegar and then add the oil accordingly.

In a deep bowl or measuring cup whisk together the syrup and vinegar. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Taste. Add more according to how rich you want it. If using garlic, add along with the salt and pepper. Prepare a bed of arugula. Arrange the beets on top. Drizzle with the pomegranate vinaigrette. Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds. Serve at room temperature.

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Photo: Jennifer Rice

Cabbage that’s tasty? Ya, mon!

Photo: Jennifer Rice

JAMAICAN VEGETARIAN CABBAGE by Donna Brow Prep 15m, Cook, 20m Total 35 minutes Makes 10–12 cups This recipe comes from a dedicated volunteer at the Pico Farmers Market in the spirit of encouraging a healthy eating lifestyle. Affordable, easy, and flavorful . Prep Shred Cabbage thin. Cut thin, onion and bell pepper. Chop cloves of garlic. Slice thin, jalapeño pepper.

Ingredients 1 large whole cabbage ½ yellow onion ½ green pepper 2 cloves of garlic ¼ tsp salt Pinch of cayenne pepper ¼ tsp cumin 1 seedless Jalapeno pepper 4 tbsp of olive oil Pinch of fresh thyme

Cook Heat oil and add onions till they are caramelized. Then stir in garlic and cabbage. Add Bell Peppers and Jalapeños. Add the remaining spices, stir and cover. Turn off heat and let the food continue to cook in the pan. Serve.

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Persimmon-ious NANA’S PERSIMMON PUDDING

by Murray Family Farms

Prep 15m, Cook 40-60m serves 10

Five generations ago, NaNa’s father was among the first California Citrus growers to plant persimmons. Today we are proud to feature NaNa’s persimmon pudding recipe as served every Thanksgiving and Christmas at the Murray home. NaNa still has six giant persimmon trees in her kitchen orchard that her children, grandchildren, and great grandchildren have all played under. At Murray Family Farms we still believe in preserving memories and picking ripe fruit. In fact, our slogan is “Fond Memories, Grown RIPE Here”. You can find us at murrayfamilyfarms.com

Ingredients 1 ½ cups ripe Hachiya-type persimmon pulp (about 3 large persimmons) 1 teaspoon baking soda 3 large eggs 1 cup firmly packed brown sugar About ½ cup butter or margarine, melted 1 cup milk 2 teaspoons vanilla 1 cup white flour ¾ cups w/w flour 1 tablespoon baking powder 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg 1 cup chopped walnuts or almonds Whipped cream and / or vanilla ice cream

Mash pulp and puree in a blender. In a large bowl, beat eggs, stir in persimmon pulp, sugar, melted butter, milk, and vanilla to blend. Mix flours, baking powder, baking soda, and spices. Add to batter along with nuts. Mix well. Pour batter into a buttered 13” X 9” X 2” inch baking dish. Bake in a 325 oven until a finger print springs back (40-60 min). Serve warm with whipped cream and/or vanilla ice cream. (NaNa likes to top her persimmon pudding with lemon sauce) Makes about 10 servings.

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Photo: Marissa|Brasko Flavor Magazine


Vacation Dining in Santa Monica A hotel restaurant can be an oasis for the guest in need. After hours of travel, a good meal with a strong drink are made all the better without the impediment of a car and the experience can be the first memory The Fairmont Miramar Hotel and Bungalows 101 Wilshire Blvd | 310.319.3111 Restaurant: Fig figsantamonica.com Voted Santa Monica’s Most Loved Hotel in 2019, the Fairmont’s FIG, uses seasonal cuisine sourced from visits to farmers markets and specialty foragers that comb the coastline for hard to find items. Local’s secret: Go for FIG AT FIVE for half off all menu items! Executive Chef Jason Prendergast Shutters on the Beach 1 Pico Blvd | 310-458-0030 Restaurant: 1 Pico Restaurant & Coast shuttersonthebeach.com One of Southern California’s premier beachfront dining destinations, make a reservation at Shutter’s, One Pico for an exceptional, elegant meal, or catch killer views and go beachfront casual at Coast. Chef David Almany DoubleTree Suites by Hilton Hotel 1707 4th St | 310-395-3332 Restaurant: 4th Street Grille doubletree3.hilton.com Classic, hotel style breakfast, lunch and dinner. Executive Chef Michael Fonder Le Meridien Delfina 530 Pico Blvd | 310-399-9344 Restaurant: Longitude marriott.com A chic gathering spot that matches the hotel’s southern california style, Longitude has craft cocktails and food with a side of pool views.

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of a great vacation. In Santa Monica, some of the city’s best restaurants and bars are contained within hotels and locals know they can get a literal taste of that vacation feeling by stopping by anytime.

The Georgian Hotel 1415 Ocean Ave | 310.883.6255 Restaurant: Veranda georgianhotel.com Cozy up in the brand new lobby bar or feast on a seasonally inspired, globe-hopping menu by Executive Chef Garee Battad. Featuring a variety of specialties including breakfast favorite stuffed french toast, Sailor-style Mussels, Mediterranean-fusion tapas and indulgent desserts. Hotel Casa Del Mar 1910 Ocean Way | 310-581-5533 Restaurant: Catch hotelcasadelmar.com Inside the oceanfront hotel at Casa Del Mar, Catch has sweeping views of the coastline, for the perfect place to watch the sunset and enjoy sushi happy hour, or a great glass of wine. The Huntley 1111 2nd St | 310-394-5454 Restaurant: The Penthouse thehuntleyhotel.com Head to the Penthouse for a delicious and dramatic, 18th-floor rooftop dining experience with panoramic ocean views, beach cabanas and open sky enclaves. JW Marriott Santa Monica - Le Merigot 1740 Ocean Ave | 310-395-9700 Restaurant: Cezanne marriott.com With an innovative blend of coastal California and French fare, this elegantly casual restaurant features an inviting indoor seating area and a delightful patio with views of Santa Monica Beach.

The Proper 700 Wilshire Blvd | 310.620.9990 Restaurant: Calabra Rooftop & Onda properhotel.com Santa Monica’s ultra-luxury hotel offers a rooftop restaurant and bar (Calabra), with vibrant Mediterranean and California cuisine, served against an ocean backdrop. The hotel’s signature restaurant, Onda, mixes bold Mexican elements with market-driven fare. Executive Chef ’s: Kaleo Adams (Calabra Rooftop), Jessica Koslow and Gabriela Cámara (Onda). Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel 1700 Ocean Ave | 310-458-6700 Restaurant: Ocean & Vine *Lunch only loewshotels.com Dine al fresco on the outdoor terrace at Ocean & Vine. Enjoy California cuisine at its best, with locally caught seafood and fresh produce from the Santa Monica Farmers Markets. Hotel Shangri-La 1301 Ocean Ave | 310-394-2791 Restaurant: The Dining Room shangrila-hotel.com The hotel’s signature restaurant offers views of Ocean Avenue, Palisades Park and the Pacific Ocean in a modern-yet-classic, Dining Room. The Viceroy 1819 Ocean Ave | 310-260-7511 Restaurant: Cast viceroyhotelsandresorts.com A stylish indoor/outdoor scene with food and cocktails that are inspired by the shifting seasons and unique flavors that go with them.

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502 Santa Monica Blvd.

Winter 2019/20

424-433-8100

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Great Date//Downtown Santa Monica by Brennon Dixson

With so many sights to see and activities to do, planning an outing in the greater Los Angeles area might prove to be impossible without some semblance of direction. Luckily, a few staff members at local restaurants are on-hand to provide some insider tips that will help you and your besties get the most out of a night in Southern California. It’s always nice to wake up early and catch a SoCal sunrise or brunch special, but somebody on vacation isn’t very likely to spend their off-day waking up at dawn to see the sun. This is one reason why Santa Monica Proper’s Chef Kaleo Adams said visitors should head into the Westside sometime

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before dusk so they can see the sunset from a view unlike any other. Late Afternoon Adams said the rooftop bar atop the Proper Hotel is an amazing place for group outings because there are so many minute details that make it the perfect backdrop to a night out. The design and placement of the bar’s furniture and fauna allow guests to enjoy their privacy, while the bar provides ample opportunities to people-watch, according to Adams. “The music has been curated to allow for a good time,” but doesn’t force you to

scream at each other or feel as if you are in a super busy and bustling bar, Adams said, before discussing various pre-dinner snack options that are available at Calabra. “The menu is built to have a conversation over, as everything is really shareable,” Adams said, mentioning this provides an opportunity to spark up a conversation about food, travel and childhood memories. “Definitely try all the dips with our freshly grilled laffa bread,” Adams added, stating, “It’s perfect for sharing and lets you eat slowly,” which is good because the night should be about enjoying the conversation. “And if you are, then you Winter 2019/20


can order more food and stay a little longer.” As for the recommended drink of choice, well that depends on the time of your visit, according to Adams. “If you’re on an afternoon (outing), I’d go for an Aperol Spritz or a bottle of Rosé,” the chef said. “At night, I would go with any of our tequila-based drinks, (so you can) sit at the bar and watch our talented bar team make delicious drinks and serve you some liquid courage!” Early Evening Once the sun has set, tourists can grab their jackets from the hotel and take a 15-minute walk to The Lobster, an iconic restaurant adjacent to the Santa Monica Pier that offers a view as good as its menu. “Sitting high on a bluff where Route 66 meets the Pacific Ocean,” the restaurant is an internationally recognized destination for travelers and locals alike, according to the restaurant’s website, which touts the location’s sweeping ocean views. “Meanwhile, The Lobster’s menu, (which is) designed by renowned Celebrity Chef Govind Armstrong, is crafted to satisfy the palates of tastemakers and food lovers throughout the region.” Restaurant staff said there’s no wrong choice when it comes to the establishment’s various entree options. NightCap After dinner, take a lap around the pier, win a prize and chat about life while you take in the views Downtown Santa Monica on your way to grab dessert at Ugo Cafe or the Bodega Wine Bar. Both locations are located on Broadway, so you’re free to grab a hand-molded gelato treat or Belgian Waffle covered in fruit before visiting Bodega for some wine, beer and soju cocktails. Come on a “Sunday Funday” and enjoy board games throughout the night, according to Bodega’s website.

Spiny lobsters and ocean views are in season at The Lobster on Ocean Avenue in Santa Monica


All Aboard! Fine dining on the water day or night. by Brennon Dixson

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estsiders looking to enjoy the amenities of a cruise without the necessary time commitment can head down to Marina Del Rey, which is home to a sunset voyage complete with dinner, tunes and good conversation.

The dress code falls somewhere between casual and dressy, according to the company website. And it’s highly suggested by staff and former guests that one bring a coat to fend off the nighttime wind that moves in once the sun has set.

Hornblower Cruises and Events ships can often be seen sailing in and out of San Diego, Newport Beach, Long Beach and Marina Del Rey — the closest location to the Westside — with dozens of local residents who are enjoying an opportunity to see new parts of the Southern California coast while they enjoy drinks and culinary masterpieces.

A low-pitched horn signals the start of every ship’s journey and traditionally prompts a toast from guests onboard while they enjoy the night’s appetizers and socialize with the ship’s friendly crew.

The brunch cruise option, which features a jazz musician and occurs most Sundays from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., is a popular choice for groups, but cocktail and dinner cruises are also available along with special events like the recent Dogs on Deck cruise. Every cruise option has its own unique vibe, according to taff aboard a dinner cruise in October, who described the brunch cruise as more of an active affair. A buffet comprised of eggs, turkey bacon, potatoes and other options is normally paired with the many mimosas and beverages that will be consumed throughout an afternoon aboard the ship, staff said. Dinner is traditionally a more sophisticated affair but it still allows guests plenty of opportunities to enjoy themselves, whether that be from the dancefloor or the lookout deck located on the uppermost part of the ship. “It’s a big thing to do if you want to propose, celebrate a 50th birthday or grad party,” said Albert Saucedo, a server onboard the vessel. “People who come through from LAX sometimes come as single riders,” and local companies throwing parties or holding celebrations can rent entire sections and floors of the Hornblower boats if they need the space.

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Once settled in, some choose to explore the different levels of the vessel and travel upstairs to the third floor, which is littered with lounge chairs, loveseats and sofas so groups can enjoy the surrounding scenery. The sounds of “seals” and wildlife fill the air as the boat maintains a constant pace, circling around the marina. A Caesar salad topped with cherry tomatoes and parmesan cheese typically arrives not too long after takeoff to appease the passengers who are really itching to eat, forcing those on-board to decide which of the three forks they’ll use to tackle the remaining courses that have yet to arrive. By the time the boat circles back for another round through the marina, a plate of breaded salmon and braised short ribs is served accompanied by mashed potatoes and assorted veggies. Passengers take one more trip to the bar to pick up a fresh basil cucumber Collins or other beverage before they take to the dance floor to show off their moves. The guests’ laughter carries on throughout the night as the dozens of strangers gather to sing and move along to songs like “Cupid Shuffle” and “Suavemente.”

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Venice

BOARDWALKUPS

A funky and fun cluster of walkup windows offers an array of quick bites at the beach. hether it’s because of pets, kids or your significant other’s need to remain on the beach soaking up the sun’s rays, Southern California tourists aren’t always inclined to take time from the day sitting in a traditional restaurant waiting for their food to arrive.

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Enter the walk-up window eateries that are prevalent at beaches like Venice.

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Locals can be seen riding up throughout the day to the assortment of small restaurants that are located just beyond the row of ice cream shops, clothing retailers and tattoo parlors. With plenty of places to secure a bike, scooter or pet, some take a seat at one of the tables to enjoy a bite and socialize with a friend. The pet-friendly seating and views of Venice’s ocean waves are only part of the benefits to the walk-up establishments. The real treat is the multitude of food options that are available depending on one’s taste.

PIZZAOKI The first establishment usually happened upon by patrons is Pizzaoki. The cuisine serves traditional pizzas like cheese and pepperoni, along with its vegan and BBQ options. The mural next to the establishment is a popular place for tourists to take pictures that will eventually find their way to social media, and prospectives visitors may be happy to hear that a new art piece is currently being painted.

THE WEE CHIPPY Established in 2013, The Wee Chippy specializes in Fish and Chips with a twist. Not only does the restaurant offer award-winning fresh, hand-cut fries with most of its meal options, it also possesses gluten-free and vegan versions of the popular English meal. No matter what combo you settle on though, everybody gets to select a “chippy salt flavoring” and “chippy condiment” to pair with the meal. Staff suggested trying the garlic salt and chipotle mayo tarter sauce options but there’s never a wrong choice at The Wee Chippy.

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VENICE TERIYAKI Depending on the direction, Venice Teriyaki is either the first or final establishment tourists see when visiting Venice’s walk-up window eateries. With everything from pupusas to horchata to Thai tea on the menu, staff said it’s likely you’ll find the food you’re craving here. The Chicken Bowl combo is a local favorite but there are also burritos and sandwiches to choose from depending on your mood that day.

PLANET HUMMUS Those who are looking for healthier food options can walk a few feet from the beach over to Planet Hummus. “Don’t panic, it’s organic,” is painted in bright green below the menu and is one of the first features visitors will notice once they arrive at the window to order. That is if the smell doesn’t catch their attention first. With an assortment of veggies, herbs and meats available, customers are able to design a wrap or pita that fits their taste and dietary needs.

El HUARIQUE Just beyond the soon-to-be-completed mural and around the corner from Pizzaoki lies El Huarique, a walk-up restaurant specializing in Peruvian cuisine. Ceviche, sandwiches and rotisserie chicken are some of the most popular selections among patrons, but sides like Maracuya, plantains and Yucca also pair well with the stir fry options that are also on the menu.


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