Summer 2010

SUMMER I 2010

EXPOsition Of Estonia 2010

Estonia Enters The Silk Road

Tõnis Vint and The Wandering Cultures

Lenna Kuurmaa

- A Versatile Young Talent Estonia – A Bridge Between Europe And Asia?

Price: 75 EEK I 5€

state & society I economy & business I design I culture & entertainment I tourism

2

The Estonian phenomenon. Those words are used to summarize the feelings of surprise expressed worldwide over the fact that Estonia has managed to fulfil the strict Euro criteria, despite the economic crisis and the difficulties experienced in the rest of Europe!

Estonia is the only country in Europe which managed to quickly adapt to the profound crisis situation and even come out as a winner. Anyone who comes to Estonia can see for themselves that, with strong will-power, this is possible.

Yet behind this success story is long-term and persistent development based on the simplicity of doing business in Estonia. In comparison with other European Union states, Estonia has lower taxes, less bureaucracy and much lower labour costs. One key to the success of Estonia has been its friendliness towards foreign investment. Any areas, including production, agriculture, services, transport, logistics and tourism, are open to foreign investment. Estonia boasts an innovative business culture, one proof of this being the fact that the Skype technology was created in Estonia. Estonians have long-standing business relations with Russia and Europe, and this experience helps companies to enter Russian and European Union markets.

One of the engines of Estonian success has been the Estonian transport- and logistics sector, which services diverse logistic chains, making use of the geographical advantages of Estonia. Which ones? For example, in purely technical terms, Estonia is the closest European Union state to China and, at the same time, is located in the heart of the most developed and innovative economic region of northern Europe, between north-western Russia and the rest of Europe. The development of this area is led by such big cities as Moscow, Stockholm and et al, which are all tourism magnets and trading markets.

In the movement of goods, Estonia’s impressive development has benefited from the highest quality and safety standards and requirements, which are applied throughout Estonia.

The functioning of the Estonian logistics sector is ensured by the most efficient railway company in Europe, the modern Tallinn Airport and several deep sea harbours. The largest Cover Lenna Kuurmaa Photo: Maiken Staak Makeup: Mammu

port in the Baltic Sea, the Port of Tallinn, is the busiest hub of regular passenger and ro-ro lines, and numerous cruise ship routes are being added. The deepest ice-free ports in the region make it possible to receive ocean-class ships carrying containers and raw materials, which are technically easy and safe to navigate in Estonian waters. In the terminals located at Estonian ports, which are among the most efficient in Europe, the reloading of goods takes place at a high standard, faster than in other ports and at very competitive prices. One

Executive publisher Positive Projects Pärnu mnt 69, 10134 Tallinn, Estonia www.lifeinestonia.ee Editor Reet Grosberg reet.grosberg@ambassador.ee Translation Ambassador Translation Agency Language editor Richard Adang Layout Positive Design Partner

advantage of Estonia is also the strategic railway transport partnership with Russia, which is made possible by a railway network which has the same gauge of the track and functions on the same technological basis. Travelling from Estonia to the large centres of the region by car is also quick and safe, using the well-developed road network in Estonia free of charge.

And last but not least, Estonia is a pearl with well-preserved medieval European architecture and nature tourism. Therefore, Estonia deserves a closer look whether you’re a tourist or have business interests.

Welcome to Estonia – the positively surprising country! And a very beautiful one! Just come and check it out for yourself!

Raivo VARE Chairman of the Council of the Estonian Development Foundation and an expert on transit and logistics

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

3

I CONTENT

SUMMER_2010 6 Where to go this season?

Life in Estonia recommends

24 Officially in Shanghai Andre Lipand, Estonian diplomat, talks about the importance of the Shanghai consulate as the first expansion of Estonia’s representation in Asia since the opening of embassies in Tokyo and Beijing.

8 News 11 Innovation 26 How to make Tallinn

bigger than it really is?

With the help of the Chinese!

The Tallinn Airport is cooperating with China in order to become a bridge between Asia and Europe, and to make better use of Estonia’s favourable geographical location. Tallinn is also becoming an increasingly attractive

14 Lenna Kuurmaa: ‘Above all I don’t want to let myself down’

destination for European low-cost airlines. Erik Sakkov, board member and Marketing Director of the Tallinn Airport, shares his views on the future of the Tallinn Airport.

The young Estonian pop singer Lenna Kuurmaa has achieved a great deal in her 24 years. Her biggest moment of international fame came as part of the girl band Vanilla Ninja, which to date remains Estonia’s export article number one. But that’s not all. Get aquainted with this multi-talented young woman, who has performed in film, in a TV series, in theatre and in all sorts of music projects as a singer.

32 How to create order out of chaos or Why the railways of the smallest Baltic country are the most efficient in

the region 20 NATO Foreign Ministers’ Meeting in Tallinn

Kaido Simmermann, Chairman of Eesti Raudtee (Estonian Railways – ed.), reveals the secret behind the most effective railway system in the Baltics and talks about his company’s future plans.

from all around the world to Tallinn. Margus Kolga, Director General of the

37 Estonia strives to enter the route of the new Silk Road

1st Political Department of the Estonian Ministry of Foreign Affairs, and Head

In 2008, the Chinese business delegation visited the Port of Tallinn to sign an

of the Estonian Ministerial Task Force, shares with us his impressions of the

agreement to develop a container terminal at the Muuga harbour. In 2010,

event.

the situation in Estonia resulting from the economic recession means that

This April, Tallinn, the Estonian capital, hosted a high-level NATO meeting.

The event brought approximately 700 politicians, policy-makers and experts

the aforementioned collaboration memorandum with the Port of Ningbo has been put on hold. However, the delegation of transport and logistical enterprises which visited Shanghai in June was pleased with the results of the visit and returned filled with hope for the future.

4

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

43 PORTFOLIO. Tõnis Vint Get acquainted with Tõnis Vint, an Estonian artist who has remained, for

58 EXPO 2010: Why do they sing in the Estonian pavilion?

decades, determinedly independent from the established art world. Get ac-

Every day at 6pm, there is a karaoke song festival in the Estonian pavilion at

quainted with his work and find out what he has to say about different

EXPO. Familiar Estonian and Chinese melodies fill the dimly lit hall and the

cultures and their mutual influence.

words are displayed in Estonian, Chinese and English on a large screen. Why is that and what does Estonia intend to accomplish through song? Read Tiina Jõgeda’s impressions of Estonia’s exhibit at EXPO in Shanghai.

64 Holidays in Estonia There are several ways to spend a holiday in Estonia, depending on your needs and choices. Have a quick look at different possibilities on offer.

54 The mushroom between the sea and the forest On the global scale, Estonia is such a tiny dot that the efforts of local small entrepreneurs to make themselves visible in the market often end up with them running out of stamina. Piret Port, the founder of the company Portel, has started with something so original that people come to find her.

70 Time travel begins in Tallinn city centre Is time travel possible? Yes, because in the city centre of Tallinn one can walk into the past through the defence tunnels of the Baroque era, or take a train ride into the year 2219.

57 Children’s high chair Mari wins noted design award Estonian design has received recognition again as Julia Maria Künnap has won the Red Dot design prize with a children’s high chair created for her own needs. The chair, made of chrome and real leather, suits every environment,

77 Estonia in brief 78 Practical information for visitors

from home to public spaces.

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

5

I WHERE TO GO THIS SEASON THE SUMMER SEASON OF THE ESTONIAN NATIONAL OPERA

comedy – the timeless operetta Die Fle-

July 9–22, 2010

plays a game with everybody. The stage

Estonian National Opera

decorations are by Claudia Damm.

Summer is a time of holidays and great

Dmitri Bertman’s staging of the fantastic

events. No need to look far for good en-

opera The Love for Three Oranges takes

tertainment – the summer season of the

unexpected turns and brings the good

Estonian National Opera offers plenty of

old comedy to the audience in a new

joy, fairy-tales, quality music and virtuous

exciting way. The stage decorations are

interpretations. The stage director Michiel

by Igor Nezhnyi and costumes by Tatyana

Gyula Harangozó’s ballet Snow White and

Verdi’s Un ballo in maschera, staged by

Dijkema has staged an exciting situation

Tulubeva.

the 7 Dwarfs will take the spectators to

Arne Mikk is an opera at its best – passion-

a fairy land, where new adventures are

ate, intriguing and accompanied by divine

waiting to be explored. The ballet that

music. Decorations by Ralf Forsström.

dermaus is a funny story, where nobody is who he pretends to be, and everybody

abounds in visual effects, acrobatic stunts and dance will appeal to everyone.

The ballet Coppélia based on Delibes’ wonderful melodies offers classically pure choreography performed by the best ballet dancers of the Estonian National Ballet. The choreography of the ballet is

by Ronald Hynd, the Desginer is Roberta Guidi di Bagno.

DAVID OISTRAKH FESTIVAL

Beethoven’s 9th Symphony also has an

Pärnu Concert Hall and Eliisabet

been performed there at the Pärnu sum-

Church, July 5-23, 2010

mer music concert already forty years ago

anniversary of its own in Pärnu, having

which marked the beginning of summer festivals in Estonia. The Beethoven proThe David Oistrakh Festival which has

gramme and two other musical evenings

catered for Estonia’s thirst for beautiful

are conducted by Tõnu Kaljuste.

and intriguing music for the last 14 summers is continuing in its best tradition

The divine performance of the best-known

and inviting the creme de la creme of the

arias from Divine in new arrangements,

music world to Pärnu in July.

performed by Swedish opera primadonnas, confirms that opera as entertainment

The audience will have the pleasure of

is very much alive and offers an opportu-

enjoying the beautiful sounds of the violin

nity to spend a special evening in style.

performed by David Oistrakh’s grandchild Valeri Oistrakh.

The main guest of the festival is a living legend, the Polish composer and conduc-

Kristjan Järvi

The programme of the Finnish pianist

tor Krzysztof Penderecki, whose works

Antti Siirala who has performed at all the

are performed on many evenings and

previous Oistrahh festivals is dedicated to

who will conduct the final concert of the

Frédéric Chopin’s 200th anniversary.

festival.

One of the most charismatic conductors

The works of Tormis and Pärt who are

of our time – Kristjan Järvi – is comple-

both celebrating important birthdays

menting the bubbling energy of the Baltic

this year, takes a dignified place among

Youth Philharmonic Orchestra which is

the repertoire of the festival. The whole

performing at the opening concert.

festival this year can be summed up in the words of the Latvian composer Artūrs Maskatsi – music must first and foremost be beautiful.

6

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

DIE FLEDERMAUS An operetta by Johann Strauss in three acts

Michiel Dijkema, a Dutch stage director

self-indulgent society, which loses itself

who is known for unique one of its kind

unrestrained in joie de vivre and malicious

and intriguing stage productions. He

delight, and wishes nothing more than to

delighted Estonians with La Cenerentola

be somebody else, at least for the night.”

(2006), which is still in the repertoire of

- Michiel Dijkema, Stage Director

Libretto by Karl Haffner and Richard

Music Director and Conductor:

Genée, based on the vaudeville Le Réveil-

Jüri Alperten

lon by Henri Meilhac and Ludovic Halévy.

Conductors: Mihhail Gerts and Erki Pehk

Die Fledermaus premiered in 1874 in

Premiere at the Estonian National Opera

Stage Director and Designer:

Vienna and is still popular worldwide

on May 13, 2010.

Michiel Dijkema

by virtue of its memorable melodies,

Costume Designer: Claudia Damm

mesmerising dance routines and intrigu-

Lighting Desinger: Bas Berensen

ing story.

Die Fledermaus, one of the most popular

“With sparkling irony Johann Strauss

operettas by Johann Strauss is staged by

composes a comedy of manners of a

the Estonian National Opera.

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

7

I NEWS

The first automated parcel machine starts operating in Eesti Post

In the first months, the parcel machine will be used for receiving packages. As the machine network grows, it will also be possible to use the machines for delivering parcels. Eesti Post has negotiated agreements with various Internet shops to transfer their parcels to the machines.

The machine is an innovative model called FS-08,

In June, the first automated parcel machine was

which came on the market last spring; it was pro-

installed next to the Viru Keskus shopping cen-

duced by the Austrian company KEBA. The first

tre in Tallinn, and the first packages have already

model was installed in Germany and it was intro-

been sent through this ‘parcel box’.

duced to the public in the global postal conference last March. KEBA has been producing and

The parcel machine, located next to the entrance

installing parcel machines for over a decade and

to the Viru Keskus bus terminal, can be used 24

is a market leader in this field.

hours a day. It has been equipped with security measures to protect it from vandals and meets EU

Eesti Post plans to install parcel machines in the

safety requirements. It can also be easily used by

biggest towns in Estonia and to broaden the serv-

people in wheelchairs.

ice to the other Baltic countries.

Researchers with an Estonian connection are put on the world map

In January, the History Museum of the University of Tartu presented a digital map with 188 geographical objects named after 58 researchers and explorers who have been linked to Estonia.

‘During the 19th century and in the beginning of the 20th century, the Academy of Sciences of

but, nonetheless, even today there are various

You can find out more about the digital map ‘Re-

St. Petersburg organised a series of expeditions

places on the world map which have been named

searchers linked to Estonia on the world map’ on

to explore the Russian polar territories and Sibe-

after scientists linked to Estonia (e.g. Baer Island,

the web page unite.ut.ee/teadus/

ria. In a number of these, the leading role was

Bellingshausen Sea etc.).’

played by researchers of Baltic German origin,’

The map was composed by Terje Lõbu from the

said Terje Lõbu, head of the exhibition at the mu-

The digital solution developed collaboratively

History Museum of the University of Tartu, Ve-

seum. ‘Many Baltic German and Russian explor-

by researchers at the University of Tartu and the

ronica Irmann from the Natural History Museum

ers and natural scientists, and later many Soviet

Estonian University of Life Sciences distinguishes

of the University of Tartu and Erki Tammiksaar

scientists, used the surnames of researchers who

between scientists after whom certain places

from the Centre for Science Studies of the Es-

had inspired them, or who had been the first to

have been named and scientists who have named

tonian University of Life Sciences. The project

explore a particular territory, to name geographi-

them. All objects on the map can be found on old

was supported by the Environmental Investment

cal places. Many names were gradually forgotten

maps, travel journals or other notes.

Centre.

Estonia is the most successful user of EU funds in Central and Eastern Europe

Eastern Europe of being more successful in applying structural funds in fields which require large investments, such as transport. Estonia has an exceptional record in the case of agricultural and rural life support programmes which have large budgets, as it is complicated to find co-financing.’

Recent research by KPMG showed that from

of agreements have been made in the field of

2007-2009 Estonia was the most successful user

energy.

of European Union structural- and agricultural

8

Until 2013, Estonia has the opportunity to invest about 66 billion kroons (4.2 billion Euros) of EU

funds in Central and Eastern Europe. Among the

‘Besides being effective in applying structural

support funds. Together with national co-financ-

ten East and Central European countries studied

funds, Estonia has managed to adapt well to

ing, approximately 80 billion kroons (5.1 billion

in the research, Estonia was the only one that had

the financial crisis during this period of support.

Euros) are being invested in development in dif-

commitments of up to 44 per cent of EU support

In the case of EU structural funds, the state fo-

ferent fields. Larger support fields include energy

funds allocated to the state; the total budget of

cused on making the system of issuing funds sim-

economics, enterprise, governance, education,

support given to Estonia has been nearly 80 bil-

pler and faster,’ explained Karin Rätsep, Business

information society, environmental protection,

lion. Estonia has been most effective in using the

Advice Manager of KPMG, who coordinated the

regional and local development, research and

EU funds in the field of transportation. In com-

Estonian research. ‘In analysing developments

development, transport, the labour market and

parison to other countries, the fewest number

in recent years, there is a trend in Central and

agriculture, and rural life and fishing.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Estonian medical scientists will be working on diagnostic systems for early detection of the diseases of the joints

Alterations detected in joint tissue, together with a description of the progression of the disease in the database, provide a reliable basis for the early diagnosis of a disease. ‘We have identified promising candidates of joint tissue bio-markers and, within the next three years, we need to select those whose identification make it possible to obtain the most trustworthy picture of the state

The Department of Internal Medicine of the Uni-

changes are taking place inside a joint which could

of their joints. The hardest clinical task for the

versity of Tartu is participating in the EU-support-

lead to serious illness in the near future.

project will be to recognise those few patients in whom osteoarthritis is continuously developing’

ed project NanoDiaRa, which aims to develop

says Prof. Tamm.

nanotechnology-based methods for the diagnosis

Professor of Laboratory Medicine Agu Tamm of

of such joint diseases as rheumatoid arthritis and

the University of Tartu says that the Estonian expe-

osteoarthritis. The European Commission has al-

rience with early osteoarthritis of knee joints has

To solve these complex problems, the Department

located nine million Euros for the funding of the

aroused interest world-wide.

Work in this field

of Internal Medicine of the University of Tartu is

project. Over a period of three years, the project

began in Tartu in 2002. More than five hundred

working in cooperation with specialists from eight

will identify laboratory markers on the basis of

people between the ages of 35-55 have been in-

universities and seven technology companies from

which blood and urine samples can be used to

vestigated by the working group of the Depart-

Switzerland, Sweden, Germany, Holland, Austria,

detect the early stages of disease in joints. This

ment of Internal Medicine. ‘We only use standard-

France and Canada.

technology will help to detect the early stages of

ized methods: questionnaires,

osteoarthritis and rheumatoid arthritis much fast-

function

er and more accurately than is possible today. The

known to date, or X-rays,’ ex-

role of the Department of Internal Medicine in this

plained Agu Tamm, who leads

project is to test the diagnostic technology in a

the working group of the uni-

clinical situation, based on the new methodology.

versity. He adds that, as only a

tests,

bio-markers

few centres in the world deal One of the project partners, the Technology Insti-

with osteoarthritis cases in

tute of Lausanne in Switzerland, has developed a

such young people, the Esto-

method for covering nano-particles of iron and

nian database is considered

gold with a special layer, which makes it possible

valuable. Reinvestigation of

to bind protein particles that are important for di-

these patients within the next

agnosing joint diseases. The substantiated selec-

18 months will show how the

tion of patients and accurate diagnosis will make it

condition of their joints has

possible to establish whether some disease-related

changed.

Estonia will adopt euro in 2011

a country with a small fixed currency. The Estonian kroon has had the unchanging exchange rate with the euro of 1:15.64664 since 1999.

In accordance with the accession agreement with

On 8 June, the European Union Economic and Fi- As of 2010, the euro is the common currency of six-

the European Union, all the countries that joined

nancial Affairs Council (ECOFIN) approved the de- teen European Union member states: Austria, Bel-

the EU on 1 May 2004, including Estonia, became

cision to invite Estonia to join the euro zone and to gium, Cyprus, Finland, France, Germany, Greece,

members of the European Monetary Union (EMU),

adopt the euro as its currency on 1 January 2011. Ireland, Italy, Luxembourg, Malta, the Netherlands,

within the framework of which the transition to

On 17-18 June, the European Council will discuss Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia and Spain.

the common European currency, the euro, takes

Estonia’s eligibility for joining the euro area. On 13

place. On 12 May 2010, the European Commis-

July, ECOFIN made the final decision regarding Es- At the beginning of 2011, Estonia hopes

sion, the EU’s executive arm, evaluated Estonia’s

tonia’s accession to the euro area and confirmed to become the 17th EU member state

readiness to adopt the euro and proposed that

the exchange rate with the euro of 1:15.64664 as to join the euro zone.

Estonia join the euro zone in 2011. The Com-

of 1 January 2011.

mission said Estonia’s deficit and debt were well within the acceptable limits set by the Maastricht

Ever since it was put into circulation again, the

Treaty, which launched the single currency. The

Estonian kroon has been pegged to another cur-

Commission said Estonia, which accounts for a

rency—first the Deutschmark and later the euro.

tiny fraction of the euro zone’s 10-trillion-euro

Therefore, replacing the kroon with the euro will

economy, met all the entry criteria on inflation,

not bring about any major economic changes.

interest rates, budget deficit, public debt and cur-

However, adopting the euro will reduce transac-

rency stability.

tion fees and risks that could threaten Estonia as

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

9

I NEWS

US Baltic Foundation award winners from Estonia are Arvo Pärt and Enn Kunila The US Baltic Foundation awarded the com-

with praise for his charitable work in organizing

poser Arvo Pärt the Baltic Image Enhance-

art exhibitions and events introducing arts and

ment Award in its award ceremony in Wash-

culture. ‘I believe in the principle that art is the Es-

ington. The philanthropy prize went to the

tonian business card and something which brings

entrepreneur and art collector Enn Kunila.

nations together,’ said Kunila, in his acceptance speech.

Upon presenting Pärt the award, recognition was given to his musical language full of nuances and

Former winners of the US Baltic Foundation

to his recent 4th Symphony ‘Los Angeles’, which

awards include President Toomas Hendrik Ilves,

was completed after a 37-year break, and was

the entrepreneur Steve Jürvetson and the super-

successful performed in Los Angeles and in other

model Carmen Kass.

places in California. The award was presented to Arvo Pärt for his outstanding contribution to the

The US Baltic Foundation was founded in the ear-

development of Estonian culture, according to

ly 1990s in order to help the Baltic States, as new-

the US Baltic Foundation.

ly independent states, in the international arena.

Today, the aim of the NGO is to strengthen the

The entrepreneur and art collector Enn Kunila was

relations between the USA and the Baltic States.

presented the Baltic Philanthropy Prize for introducing and supporting Estonian art and culture,

Yoga commended by international investors At the meeting of innovative enterprises and in-

In total, 127 new and expanding businesses from

agreements in Europe, India and the Arab world.

vestors which took place in Barcelona, the Esto-

all over the world participated in the competition.

The fact that such a high-level jury picked us out

nian technology company Yoga won the title of

There were 10 finalists in the field of cleantech.

from all the others is bound to impress our part-

the most innovative enterprise.

The best business solutions were selected by a

ners and help to speed along the decision-making

37-member jury which included many leading

process,” added Vimberg.

At the business forum World Innovation Sum-

venture capitalists and acclaimed experts from

mit Hit Barcelona 2010 Yoga was awarded in the

technology giants such as Siemens and IBM.

field of cleantech, which included companies fo-

in its ten years of existence has developed the in-

cusing on environmentally clean and sustainable

Priit Vimberg, Acting Director of Yoga, said that

telligent building system. This unique solution in

technologies. Yoga’s “smart house” solution was

the company is planning to expand and therefore

the world enables to manage the household elec-

praised for its innovativeness and environmental

the award received in Barcelona could not have

trical- and technological systems from one loca-

friendliness, as the technology helps house own-

come at a better time. “We are in the process

tion via a computer. The Yoga intelligent building

ers to save energy and lower house maintenance

of negotiating on many fronts in order to bring

system makes building management significantly

costs.

along more capital and to sign cooperation

easier and cheaper.

Tallinn Science Park Tehnopol will host the next IASP

Tehnopol won by a large margin, bringing the

(International Association of Science Parks) World

notable conference to Eastern Europe for the first

Conference in Tallinn, Estonia, in 2012. About 800

time.

Tehnopol brings the IASP World Conference 2012 to Tallinn

managers of science parks from different countries are expected to attend the conference.

70 countries. Nearly 200,000 innovative companies work in member parks. Tehnopol has been a

South Korea, the members chose the location for

member of IASP since 2003.

and the JSC Technology Park in Nizhni Novgorod, Russia had applied to hold the conference.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

IASP links approximately 400 science parks from

At the 2010 IASP World Conference in Daejeon, the next conference. Tallinn Science Park Tehnopol

10

Yoga is an Estonian technology company which

I INNOVATION

Estonian e-roller targets the growing European market

It weighs 35-40 kilograms and is 1.2 metres in length. Due to its construction and small size, the bike can even be taken in an elevator to an apartment. The Estonian developers consider its smallness and compactness to be its unique selling-points – there are no other bikes quite like this in the world. The battery can be charged from an ordinary 220-volt outlet and it takes six hours (if the battery is completely empty). There

Veloelektron OÜ, a company which recently pre-

single Microsoft-type company which dominates

is a faster charging possibility, but this requires a

sented e-roller models, or Exo-bikes, developed in

the market and determines what kind of technol-

special solution.

Estonia, hopes to be selling 8,000-10,000 of those

ogy and design are popular. This offers opportu-

small compact electric rollers a year by 2014. As

nities for new companies to grab a share of the

The production scheme will look something like

the price range of an e-roller is between 30,000

market.

this: the components will be brought from Chi-

and 39,000 kroons, the aim is to create a company with turnover between 300-400 million kroons.

na, the metal work will be done in Estonia, and The idea for Exo-bikes was born in the summer of

the printing of electronic mother plates will also

2009 and it was immediately implemented. The first

take place in Estonia, as well as the assembly of

This is an ambitious goal and there are no guaran-

investors were found in November. Two different

the bikes.

tees. Jarmo Tuisk, a representative for the Exo-bike,

models were presented in April 2010. ‘The invest-

explains the logic behind those figures. ‘There are

ment to date is below a million kroons,’ says Tuisk.

approximately a million e-rollers and e-bikes sold

The next steps of the company are straightforward. Existing models need to be tested and

in Europe each year. For a new company like ours,

Just take it upstairs in the elevator

perfected, and problems eliminated. It needs to

the break-even point would be the production of

This is a completely Estonian product. The soft-

receive type confirmation and be shown at trade

about 1,500-2,000 e-rollers annually.’ Tuisk says

ware- and electronic solutions were created by Pri-

fairs. In autumn, international fairs for two-wheel

that the market for electric rollers is a growing and

it Aas. The designer is Gabriel Verilaskja. Each time

vehicles take place and this is where deals are

popular one, and it is also fragmented. There is no

it’s charged, the Exo-bike can go 80 kilometres.

made, orders placed and sales transacted.

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

11

I INNOVATION

SmartPOST aims to revolutionize the postal industry with parcel terminals The Estonian start-up has developed automated parcel terminals that make it possible to send and receive parcels quickly and comfortably from shopping centres.

also makes good sense because visiting the local

SmartPOST. Presently, around 85,000 customers

shopping centre is a part of most people’s daily

have used SmartPOST. This means that around

routines. The person sending a parcel simply puts

6% of the whole population of the country has

the package in a compartment of the terminal

used the service. This is a remarkable number,

and pays with a credit card. When the parcel is

especially considering the fact that this was a

delivered, the recipient gets an SMS message with

completely new type of service. At the moment,

This company from the small town of Viljandi

the location of the terminal and the code to open

SmartPOST has 37 terminals installed all over the

started developing their system a couple of years

the right compartment. The innovative service

country.

ago. Like many smart ideas, this one was driven

received the Logistics Deed 2009 Award and is

by a real-life problem: the national postal service

on the short-list of nominees at the World Mail

Export is the main goal

simply wasn’t efficient enough for the needs of

Awards this year.

Although SmartPOST is popular in Estonia, the

the online furniture shop managed by some of

Rapid growth in Estonia

ed parcel terminals isn’t new and, at first, they

After polishing the technical features and setting

different aspects of the service and technology.

looked into adopting existing systems, but at the

up a terminal network, it was still anybody’s guess

This means that SmartPOST is not only selling

end of the day developing a new system was a

as to whether the new way of sending and receiv-

hardware but also a complete business model.

better way to maximize cost-effectiveness and the

ing parcels would catch on. Although Estonians

Basically, anyone anywhere can set up a net-

benefits of such a system.

consider themselves very tech-savvy, it took a rela-

work of parcel terminals, with the technology

tively long time for people to consider using ATMs

and know-how (everything from the terminals

as naturally as they do today. But the risk paid

themselves to a tested marketing strategy) pro-

ATMs are probably the best parallel that one can

off and the service caught on, with hundreds of

vided by the Estonian company. A pilot project

draw, in terms of user friendliness. SmartPOST

Internet vendors and mail order firms now using

has already been launched in Italy and a deal

machines make you less dependent on post of-

SmartPOST as their method of choice in delivering

was signed in April with Russia’s largest privately

fice opening hours, as they are located in shop-

their goods. What was even more surprising was

owned postal company, CPCR Express, to provide

ping centres with long opening hours and the

that the C2C service became popular very quickly,

them with 100 terminals during the first year of

process usually takes less than a minute. This

constituting about a quarter of all parcels sent via

cooperation.

No more lines at the post-office

12

main focus is still on export. The idea is to use

the founders of SmartPOST. The idea of automat-

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

the home market as a laboratory to tweak the

Everyone can be a gardener – just click and grow

Estonians invent iPot The television show The Hunt for the Idea out of a Million has selected the best Estonian business idea of 2010. The top prize went to the iPot – an electronic plant pot managed by the computer programme invented

by Click & Grow Ltd., which is perfect for absent-minded gardeners doing gardening at home.

This electronic plant-growing pot, managed by a

The Click & Grow system doesn’t use soil as a

computer programme which was developed by

growing medium. Instead it relies on aeroponics -

an Estonian company, will be available on Ama-

a growing system that grows the plants in an air

zon starting next autumn. The iPot is made of

or mist environment. All you need to do is place

plastic and its design resembles the Apple Mac

a plant cartridge containing some seeds into the

Cube.

pot, fill the water tank and upload the proper

com.

growth programme to the pot, and the Click & The Click & Grow system enables users to grow

Grow system will take care of the rest.

any house plant – a cactus, rose, or some other exotic plant - which people often find difficult to

Such a growing system is not unique in itself,

grow because it takes too much effort. As the

but a complete electronic pot system is indeed

Click & Grow system continuously measures all

unique. Mattias Lepp, the founder of Click &

parameters necessary for a plant to grow and the

Grow Ltd., says that they don’t have any direct

software knows precisely what each plant needs,

competitors anywhere in the world.

Click & Grow can handle even the most complicated of house plants.

This is not just a theory or a beautiful business idea. It is a working product. Prototypes already

For consumers, this means that it does what it

exist. Several leading publications of electronic

says on the label: you just place a cartridge in the

gadgets and innovation, such as Wired and Dis-

pot and the plant will start to grow by itself. The

covery, ran articles on Click & Grow in earlier this

manufacturers of the Click & Grow system say

year.

that it takes care of all the needs of a plant, such as watering and fertilizing by way of sensors, a

The electronic pot will be primarily sold via the

processor and special software contained in the

Internet shop of Amazon. ‘It is a serious problem

pot. Aside from the seeds, the plant cartridge

for us that we have too many orders even before

also contains some basic fertilizer and informa-

production has started,’ he adds. Supported by

tion about the seed type. After the cartridge has

the Innovation Division of Enterprise Estonia,

been placed in the pot, users need to connect the

Click & Grow ensures that all necessary patents

pot to a PC via a USB cable to download the ap-

are procured for its product.

propriate growth programme to suit the plant’s needs. The pot then constantly measures all of

The Click & Grow pots will start at around 20

the parameters affecting plant growth to ensure

Euros, with seed cartridges selling for between

the plant receives the best of tailored care. Click

2.5 and 6 Euros, at nurseries or on the Internet.

and Grow Ltd. is already developing a model that

The iPot should be on sale starting in September

enables to grow any plant on customer’s choice

2010. Production will take place in Estonia, at

just by inserting seeds and downloading the suit-

least initially. According to Lepp, the company will

able growth programme via USB. While basic

not be dealing with production, but will focus on

models include notification lights to inform grow-

the design and brand; production will take place

ers when the water tank needs refilling, more ex-

through sub-contractors and partners.

pensive models already in development will even free growers of this task by collecting water from

Anyone interested in giving it a go can sign up

the air.

on the Click & Grow website, www.clickandgrow.

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

13

I COVER STORY

Text: Janar Ala Photos: Maiken Staak, Külli Rummel, Tv3 Estonia, Tarmo Haud

Lenna Kuurmaa:

‘Above all I don’t want to let myself down’ The young Estonian pop singer Lenna Kuurmaa has achieved a great deal in her 24 years. We will go back a ways, but skip the early years. We will also not talk about her time with the Estonian Television Children’s Choir and her participation in the talent show ‘Fizz Superstar’ in 2002, where Lenna was first spotted by music producers. But we certainly cannot skip her biggest moment of international fame until now as part of the girl band Vanilla Ninja, which to date remains Estonia’s export article number one.

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Lenna and her band members Martin Laksberg, Reigo Ahven and Mihkel Masso

Estonia’s most successful pop-rock group Vanilla Ninja came together in Au-

When the activities of Vanilla Ninja slowed down, Lenna could be found try-

gust 2002, when two pairs of best friends - Katrin Siska and Piret Järvis, and

ing out all sorts of different music projects, ranging from disco pop to blues,

Lenna Kuurmaa and Maarja Kivi - met and decided to start making music

and she didn’t shy away from mainstream pop music or underground music.

together. In December 2002, Vanilla Ninja sent a demo of their first English-

Lenna was testing herself, looking for her own style and seeing how her

language song - ‘Club Kung-Fu’ - to the Estonian Eurovision Song Contest

musical talent could best be expressed. In the meantime, she also managed

preliminaries, and was chosen one of the ten finalists. The song received

to put herself to the test on stage, in a film and in a television series. Her roles

the Public’s Favourite Award, which marked the beginning of stardom for

in the performance of ‘Pericles’ at Theatre No99, as the Satanist Maya in

the Vanilla Ninja girls. Not only was the music a hot topic, but thousands of

Rainer Sarnet’s youth film ‘Kuhu põgenevad hinged’ (‘Where Souls Go’) and

Estonian girls started to copy their style of clothing and hair.

as Angela in the Estonian TV3 daily soap ‘Kodu keset linna’ (‘Sweet Home’) have demonstrated to the Estonian people that Lenna is also multi-talented

From 2003-2006, Lenna Kuurmaa, together with Piret Järvis, Katrin Siska,

as an actress. Oh, and on two occasions an Estonian celebrity magazine has

Maarja Kivi and Triinu Kivilaan, released four studio albums under differ-

selected Lenna as the sexiest woman in Estonia.

ent producers, travelled all around Europe and achieved high places on pop charts, winning the hearts of many people. Their first international single,

This year is special for Lenna in many ways. She participated in the largest

‘Tough Enough’ was released in Estonia, as well as in Austria, Switzerland

theatre project in Estonia to date – ‘Ühtne Eesti’ (‘United Estonia’) by No99,

and Germany, where ‘Tough Enough’ reached 13th in the official German

which ironically simulated a convention of a fictitious political party. In front

Single Charts. Vanilla Ninja’s second album, ‘Traces Of Sadness’, was re-

of 6,500 people, Lenna played the role of the leader of the youth council.

leased in June 2004, peaking at number 3 in its first week on the German

Together with the television producer Artur Talvik, she won the competition

Album Charts. Besides Central Europe, the album was also released in Japan.

of the popular TV show ‘Laulud tähtedega’ (‘Singing with Stars’). But the

Lenna has said: ‘In hindsight, this fame and dazzle was mind-blowing. At

main event was the release, at the end of May, of her debut album ‘Lenna’,

times, it is incredible to think what happened to us. It was amazing and I am

which had the uncrowned king of Estonian alternative pop – Vaiko Eplik –

truly happy that I had the chance to experience it and to accomplish some

as song writer and producer. She has already performed at EXPO this year,

unbelievable things with the girls. In 2005, Vanilla Ninja represented Switzer-

introducing her album. And the year is only half-way over.

land at the Eurovision Song Contest with the song ‘Cool Vibes’, finishing in eighth place. Lenna was the lead singer for Vanilla Ninja.

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

15

I COVER STORY Lenna’s concert at the Estonian pavilion at EXPO

The producer of your debut album was the local pop genius Vaiko Eplik.

How did you guys come to work together and why was it Vaiko who landed in the producer’s chair?

In my opinion, Vaiko is the best and the only choice in Estonia with whom to make such music on such a level – I mean indie pop. We’ve been working together since the end of last summer, when we started to put the first ideas of the album into practice. In total, we worked on the album ‘Lenna’ for three quarters of the year. We didn’t set any deadlines or other restrictions – we just worked calmly in order to get the best possible result. At first, my aim was to make an electro album but, as Vaiko told me he had no electro tunes, the album turned out the way it did and I am very happy with it.

All the songs on the album were written

by Eplik, although you wrote the words for a couple of them. What about writing music?

Do you plan to start writing your own songs in the future or have you already written something?

No, not yet. I haven’t discovered that part of me yet, partly due to lack of time. I write texts regularly, as there are things around me which make my soul want to speak. But I very much hope that some time in the future I will write my first pieces of music.

What has the reception of the new album been like?

As much as I’ve read, critics have only positive things to say. What kind of feedback have you got and how have audiences reacted?

You recently performed at EXPO in Shanghai.

Please tell us a little bit about what was happening there and how it all went.

The album introduction concerts all went very well. I cannot complain. The reception has been positive; some people definitely find the material and the new direction surprising, but the people who have approached me with their opinions have surprised me in a good sense. Nobody has complained.

We did really well in Shanghai. We were there for a week and we gave three

So far, so good.

performances at the Estonian pavilion at EXPO. In addition, we sang in a couple of very good local jazz-blues clubs. At EXPO, we introduced our new album. The whole band (in addition to Lenna, it includes Reigo Ahven, Martin Laksberg and Mihkel Masso – ed.) was very pleased with the performances.

The reception in China was very positive and warm. It seems that there is an audience in China for Estonian-language music.

You looked around Shanghai. Did you have time to visit the pavilions of other countries? Did you see anything interesting? A miracle perhaps?

We can now link a variety of different music styles - pop, rock, folk, blues, indie, dnb etc.- to you. How do you see your next album? Have you found yourself as an indie girl, or will the next album be totally different?

Are there any styles you would like to try which you haven’t tried so far?

The indie girl part comes most naturally to me and I will stick with it for some time. But, at the moment, it is too early to talk about a new album.

I will let the first one live its life for now ... it is only starting to breathe. It

16

Of course we visited other pavilions – the Spanish, Finnish, English and Af-

is definitely possible to see me in different roles in the coming months. It

rican ones. I was most impressed by the Spanish pavilion. But the Estonian

is in my nature to be versatile and to set myself challenges. But the main

pavilion was just right for our country – small and cute.

emphasis will be on my own music and on my band ‘Lenna’.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

How much do you read and take into consideration the opinions of music critics? Are you easily influenced by the opinion of others? Whose opinion means the most to you?

It is certainly the opinions of my nearest and dearest which mean the most to me, but I will not name them here. Critics and all kinds of opinion leaders – of course it is an honour to read well-written criticism and to be praised. But music is the most important thing to me and I want to do it the best I can. There is no artist without an audience. I am very grateful for all the opportunities I’ve had and, above all, I don’t want to let myself down. I feel that I haven’t done so with my first album.

You are truly multi-talented – you have performed in a film, in a TV series, in theatre and in all sorts of music projects as a singer. Of all those things, what has been the most important for you?

My first album, which is finally ready, is the result of all of that.

All this searching and travelling has brought me to it and left me with a good feeling. Music is the most important thing for me.

Although I also love acting and theatre and cinema, I don’t want to be carried too far away from music. ‘I wrap my hands around life in order to take care of what is worth caring for…’ nicely sums up what I want to say (this is a line from one of the songs on her album, ‘Mida sa teed’ (‘What you do’) – ed.).

You also participated in the Theatre No99 performance ‘Ühtne Eesti’ (‘United Estonia’) – there was much speculation about whether a new party would be born. What is your own relationship with politics? What kind of party would you join and does that kind of party already exist in Estonia?

I am moderately interested in politics but, at the moment, I would not join any party in Estonia, although there have been offers.

Some years ago you performed in the Theatre No99 production of ‘Pericles’.

How important is theatre in your life? Is there a role which you would really want to play in the future, or a theatre in which you would really like to perform?

At the moment, I can’t think of a particular role which I really have to play no matter what. But I am really looking forward to having another opportunity to surprise the audience with something in theatre. Theatre is important to me. If I am not performing myself, I go and see others act. Theatre can be truly beautiful.

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

17

I COVER STORY On top of being a great singer, in the TV music show ‘Singing with Stars’, Lenna demonstrated her ability to take on different roles as an actress, being equally believable as a Gypsy woman as well as a genuine punk.

Theatre, films or TV series – what has offered you the most so far?

They all have their good sides; it depends on how you look at it.

For me the biggest challenges to date have been Rainer Sarnet’s film ‘Kuhu põgenevad hinged’, and ‘Pericles’ at No99. Those are the most important roles.

This spring, you were on the music show ‘Laulud tähtedega’ (‘Singing with Stars’) on one of the Estonian commercial TV stations, TV3. There were eight couples participating, each including a famous singer and a celebrity from another field. The winner of each part and the whole series was decided by the vote of viewers. Your partner in the show was the film producer Artur Talvik. What experience would you bring out as enriching your world during your participation and winning this extremely popular television show?

I think the show was versatile and interesting. I could test myself on stage in different roles and doing songs which I wouldn’t necessarily do with my band. For example, Sting’s ‘Roxanne’. Of course, the relationship with my stage partner was very important and in this sense it was a pleasure to work with Artur Talvik and to watch his development as a singer. It was equally great to know that the television audience voted for us and cheered for us. There is no point in performing without the audience.

And it was no less important that the winning sum was donated to charity...

Yes, that was heart-warming. We donated the winning sum of 300,000 kroons to the Anni Akadeemia (Anni’s Academy) in Pärnu, which is a new vocational school for special needs students. We hope that this money will help them to purchase some new learning aids.

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Artur Talvik, the film producer and Lenna’s partner in the popular TV show ‘Laulud tähtedega’: I think Lenna is one of the best female singers in Estonia at the moment. When I worked with her, I was surprised to discover how large her potential is – what inner capacity she has and how little of it she has demonstrated so far. We tried to make all our performances memorable in terms of the stage show, for example the Love Theme of ‘Godfather’ by Nino Rota. From comments later on, I realised that this was what the audience liked: each song was like a little performance which helped to convey the meaning of the song to the audience. In a couple of rehearsals I just forgot myself while listening to Lenna, my mouth wide open. I hope she finds a good producer who can bring out her powerful traits even more.

What kind of music are you listening to yourself at the moment? Do you have a favourite album?

As I am already surrounded by music all the time, I enjoy silence and a rest in my free moments. The sounds of nature are truly beautiful – I listen to those.

As a member of Vanilla Ninja, you toured the world and got a taste of the international music business.

Are you thinking at all about trying to become successful as a solo artist outside Estonia?

I am. It is a good thing to broaden one’s horizons and, as my first experience with my own music in China proved, there is a lot of potential.

The Estonian language is very beautiful and I don’t think that you always need to conquer other lands with English. I need to find the right people, people who believe in my music and in me.

You probably get asked this a lot, but is Vanilla Ninja still functioning or has it split up? Will we be hearing something from Vanilla Ninja soon?

Vanilla Ninja is living a silent life; we haven’t worked together for four years and there are no plans to do so at the moment. But we haven’t officially split up.

Many young people say that they want to leave Estonia, that it is cold and boring here.

Where do you stand on that?

You can only stay away for a while – I think that is an enriching and developing experience - but I could never leave for good. With each trip, I realise how good and beautiful Estonia is. The best place is home!

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

19

I STATE LAND AND PEOPLE SOCIETY

Meeting of the foreign ministers of the ISAF nations 23 April 2010

NATO Foreign Ministers’ Meeting inTallinn Text: Margus Kolga, Estonian Ministry of Foreign Affairs, Director General of 1st Political Department and Head of the Estonian Ministerial Task Force Photos: Estonian Ministry of Foreign Affairs

20

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

In April a historic event took place in Tallinn.

The Estonian capital hosted a high-level NATO meeting – to be more precise, the allied foreign ministers gathered here for their informal meeting in order to discuss and debate a vast variety of issues that form NATO’s agenda today.

The event was also important because the next day those ministers were joined by their colleagues from the nations contributing to Afghanistan. All together, the event brought approximately 700 politicians, policy-makers and experts from all around the world to Tallinn. For some countries, an event of such size and importance might be fairly customary, but for Estonia it was historic. It can truly be said that what happened was the biggest international political event that has ever taken place in modern Estonia.

President of the Republic Toomas Hendrik Ilves and NATO Secretary General Anders Fogh Rasmussen

Estonia had planned to host the meeting in 2006, when its official request

the delegates; to move them from the airport to the venue and then from

was forwarded to Alliance Headquarters in Brussels. However, it was not un-

one place to another in accordance with the agenda of the meeting; to

til 2010 that the hosting of the meeting could actually take place. This was

prepare and decorate conference and meeting rooms and the press centre;

no reflection on Estonia – it was mainly NATO’s tight and extended agenda

to arrange communications and IT applications, including classified ones; to

and frequent summits that made the scheduling of the event very compli-

draw up a cultural programme, a special programme for spouses, and a pro-

cated. In fact, the last informal foreign ministerial meeting before the Tallinn

gramme of academic events; to ensure that diplomatic protocol is followed;

meeting was held in spring 2007 in Oslo. Such a long pause is unusual, but

and to find and train contact officers for the delegations and administrative

patience paid off.

personnel to support the meeting. And, above all, security is critical, not

It’s time to start the preparations

only at the site but also all over the city and throughout the country. So the supervisory team became fairly large –16 people all together, each responsible for one single area.

Urmas Paet, the Estonian Minister of Foreign Affairs, made me responsible for the organisation of the meeting in late summer 2009. Of course, I felt

Next, it was time to find the venue. We needed two conference rooms: one

honoured to receive such faith and confidence but, to be honest, at the

for the NATO meeting, the other for the Afghanistan contributors’ format.

same time I was worried. My prior experience with NATO had mainly been

Those two formats are different in terms of the number of participating

official and academic: accession negotiations, political talks, or speaking at

states and organisations: the first one, comprising NATO nations and high

seminars and conferences, which did not include much administrative or

ranking NATO officials, involved 35 people, and the other one included ap-

organisational work, certainly nothing the size and scope of the coming

proximately 55. NATO has a rule that all political meetings must take place

meeting. And I was not the only one who was worried. The only comparable

around a round table in order to make everybody feel equal. It was actually

meetings Estonia had held before were the NATO–Ukraine high-level semi-

the round table that set the criteria for the conference room. There are not

nar and the World Health Organization’s Regional Conference in 2008, both

many rooms in Tallinn that can accommodate round tables of such size and

supported but not directly organised by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. All in

at the same time have other necessary conference tools at hand. We have

all, I felt a great deal of uncertainty.

some big sports halls, but in order to hold a ministerial meeting in one we would have had to build another building within the existing one. We have

First, I had to put together a team of organisers and find appropriate venues

some concert halls and exhibition centres, but these are usually not in good

for the meetings, then submit a draft budget and create a plan. Organis-

condition or their location makes security arrangements too complicated.

ing this level of international political event – actually any event of this size

So we focused on the conference centres of Tallinn hotels. After running

– is very complex and includes a number of different areas that have to

around the city for some time, our eye fell on the Radisson Blu and the

be dealt with. The host’s responsibility is to provide lodging and meals for

Swissôtel, two hotels located close to one another, one with enough space

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

21

I LAND AND PEOPLE I STATE AND SOCIETY

Foreign Minister Urmas Paet and Secretary of State of the USA Hillary Clinton

to accommodate a bigger table, the other with enough space for a smaller

in Iceland and the ash cloud that spread over European airspace put a big

one. There was another hotel close by – namely the Hotel Olümpia – that

question mark on the meeting. On Tuesday, only two days before the actual

met the requirements for the press centre. The proximity of those three

beginning of the event, it was still not clear whether the delegates would be

venues was important in order to make transport arrangements simple but,

able to fly to Tallinn. The NATO advance team that was supposed to be in Es-

what was even more important, the area could be secured and protected

tonia for preparations on Monday was sitting in the Brussels airport waiting

without too much effort.

for clear skies. But God was on our side and on Tuesday evening, 20 April,,

Unexpected obstacles

the team was able to board a plane and fly to Riga. As the Tallinn airport was still closed, we had to bring them to Estonia by bus, which arrived at 4 AM the next day. After that successful operation, it became much more certain

It’s one thing to find the room itself, but quite another matter what you

that we would not have to postpone or cancel the meeting. And beginning

put inside that room. I already mentioned the table, actually two tables,

Wednesday evening, the delegations started to arrive.

which were to be round or oval in shape and able to accommodate a certain number of people. We did not have that kind of table anywhere in Estonia,

What lessons did we learn from the event?

and even worse, we did not have enough up-to-standard conference chairs either. These had to be rented from somewhere else or made on the spot.

The meeting itself was a success. A number of important issues were dis-

Soon it became clear that there was no such table available in the whole

cussed and decisions made. We heard from the participants that the factors

region and we had to go for the second option. The table built for the main

that ensured its success were the relaxed atmosphere and the punctual fol-

conference room where the North Atlantic Council meetings took place be-

lowing of the agreed schedule. This even allowed Secretary of State Hil-

came very famous in Estonia. I wonder if there is another table in the country

lary Clinton to take a walk as she returned from the Estonia Theatre to the

that has ever received so much attention and media coverage. Maybe the

Swissôtel. That was fairly unusual, since for security reasons the Secretary

table of the Tartu Peace Treaty? It was simply amusing that the country that

usually travels in a motorcade. And to be honest, while before the meeting

had applied for the ministerial meeting had to start constructing tables and

I thought that the actual days of the meeting would be the most tense and

buying conference chairs for the occasion.

nervous, the reality was completely different. Those days were calm and peaceful, and I even had an opportunity to listen to the debates and discus-

22

However, the biggest problem concerning the meeting came from out of

sions. When the last delegation took off from the Tallinn airport, we had the

the blue. It was Mother Nature herself who interfered. The volcanic eruption

feeling that we could do it again easily.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Of course there are always lessons to be learned. From this event, I have

there is always a risk of overplaying one’s hand and becoming ridiculous.

drawn the following conclusions. First of all, success is guaranteed if you

Hopefully we avoided that.

have a professional and dedicated team. I was lucky to have one. My opinion of the professionalism of Estonian civil servants and their ability to work

Thirdly, the organisation of such a conference would have been easier if we

together rose considerably. And it was not only the civil service that was out-

could have done it all in one place, not in such a way that the venues were

standing but also the volunteers, mainly students, who lent a helping hand.

separate and the press centre separate from the main venue. Therefore, it is

I was happy to acknowledge that, although Estonia is small, we can achieve

worth considering the construction of a larger convention centre in Tallinn.

remarkable results, mainly because of the good people we have.

I know this is not a simple decision, as the centre should be useful for more than one or two conferences per year, but we still need to give more thought

Secondly, it is important to make your goals and objectives clear from the

to that idea.

start and conduct the process without creating too much tension. From the beginning, we considered the meeting a project impacting Estonia’s image.

I do not know what the next high-level political event organised in Estonia

Everyone who was coming to Tallinn should leave the town with good mem-

will be, but I am confident that, whatever it is, we will be ready for it and

ories and positive impressions. This meant being a good and caring host, but

ready in a way that will make us proud.

The NATO Secretary General and foreign ministers in Tallinn

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

23

I LAND AND PEOPLE I STATE AND SOCIETY

Officially in Shanghai Text: Andre Lipand, Estonian diplomat in Shanghai

The year 2010 has only reached its halfway point, but as any avid newsreader has surely noticed, it has already been a successful year for Estonian foreign policy. The papers have been full of articles about the traffic jams caused by the foreign ministers of all the NATO countries gathering in Tallinn, about how Estonia will be the first of the Baltic countries to begin using the euro as its currency, from the beginning of next year, and even about how Estonia finally joined the OECD, sparking debates about what the OECD is and does. These achievements have been long coming and bear testament to the hard work and diligence of all the people involved.

However, regardless of these successes, work in foreign affairs is a continuous process that never ends, and this, I believe, is very well illustrated by the opening of a consulate in Shanghai.

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Although Estonia opening a second representation in China cannot be com-

of Harju County. The more than 1000 skyscrapers (buildings with 30 storeys

pared to joining the OECD, it is extremely significant. To better understand

or more) naturally help with that. One can get to Shanghai via one of its two

the significance, one must consider Estonia’s past. Having regained inde-

international airports and from there take a trip downtown at a speed of 431

pendence, Estonia had very clear and concise foreign policy goals – to ensure

km/h on the one-of-a-kind commercially-used magnetic levitation train, the

the independence of the young country and, over time, prove to the world

Maglev. Boasting such technological marvels – although ones that are still

that Estonia was a fully fledged country that could, in all aspects, be con-

unsuccessful commercially – Shanghai is a poster boy for China’s economic

sidered an equal partner. The path was rather clear cut: European Council,

growth, home to a growing middle class that will hopefully help decrease the

European Union, NATO.

widening income gap between different social levels in China. It is a place where the educated come to earn money and fulfill the dream of a car and

But now, six years after gaining membership in NATO and the EU, the situa-

a home of their own.

tion is different. Having slowly become accustomed to everyday life as an EU member state, Estonia is no longer considered a newcomer – it has advanced

The economic development of Shanghai and the eastern coast of China

on the learning curve and is ready to face new challenges. Although both

in general, coupled with the global economic crisis, were crucial factors

NATO and the EU will forever continue to play a pivotal part in Estonian for-

in establishing the consulate in Shanghai. China’s economy has reached a

eign policy, we are beginning to realize more and more that we have the op-

stage where its own companies are beginning to invest abroad, and the EU

portunity, and in fact the obligation, to develop our endeavors outside the lo-

market, with its massive purchasing power, is one of the more promising

cal area. This, together with the growing importance of long-term planning,

destinations. In addition, hit by tough times, Estonians have begun a more

can be accurately summarized by asking: “Where will Estonian foreign policy

eager search for new activities and solutions to improve their lives, including

be active in 10-20 years?” This extensive development – the transformation

heightened interest in foreign markets and opportunities. Both of these cir-

of Estonian foreign policy from local to global, from reactive to proactive – is

cumstances are leading to more and more business and trade between Esto-

clearly shown in Estonia going to Shanghai.

nia and China. Doing business from such a distance requires a fair amount of mutual trust, reliability, local insight and knowledge, which is where officials,

The Shanghai consulate is the first expansion of Estonia’s representation in

consuls and ambassadors come in – hence the need for consulates, embas-

Asia since the opening of embassies in Tokyo and Beijing (1996 and 1997 re-

sies and good relations between countries.

spectively). As the balance of global power and interests has changed significantly in the last decade, tilting more and more towards the East, strength-

Luckily for Estonian businessmen, economic relations between Estonia and

ening relations with China is a logical step – The People’s Republic of China

China have been improving year by year, with the exception of during the

has grown to become the world’s second largest economy and is slowly but

2009 crisis. In some aspects, this permanent positive trend is characteristic

surely amassing considerable political power. As the Western countries have

of Estonia-China relations in general: import-export is on the rise, official

been grappling with the economic crisis, China has reaffirmed its seat at the

visits and meetings are occurring at constantly higher levels, and the number

table next to the US, Russia and Europe. The Estonian consulate in Shanghai

of tourists and students is increasing. Recent more notable events include

somewhat illustrates this 21st century multi-polar distribution of power – this

Estonia’s participation in the 2010 EXPO held in Shanghai, the opening of

is the third Estonian consulate after New York and St. Petersburg.

the Confucius Institute at the University of Tallinn, and the opening of an Estonian language class at the Beijing Foreign Studies University this autumn.

Shanghai can, in many ways, be considered to be the New York of China. It is one of the biggest business centers in East Asia, home to 20 million inhabit-

And, of course, the consulate.

ants from all over the world, coexisting peacefully on a piece of land the size

SUMMER 2010

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25

I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS

How to make Tallinn bigger than it really is?

With the help of the Chinese!

Text: Toivo T채navsuu, Eesti Ekspress, TigerPrises.com

Photos: Tallinn Airport

26

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

The new terminal of the Tallinn Airport Completed in 2008, the Tallinn Airport’s new terminal received the Concrete Building of the Year 2009 Award.

Designed by the French company Sofreavia, together with the Estonian company EA Reng AS, architect Jean Marie Bonnard. Built by Skanska EMV. Cost 650 million kroons.

In March 2009, on the 80th anniversary of the birth of the late President Lennart Meri, the Tallinn Airport was renamed the Lennart Meri Tallinn Airport.

The Tallinn Airport is cooperating with China in order to become a bridge between Asia and Europe, and to make better use of Estonia’s favourable geographical location. Tallinn is also becoming an increasingly attractive destination for European low-cost airlines.

Another flight arrives at the brand new terminal

many passengers. And the owner—the Tallinn

building of the Tallinn Airport. The blue-black-

Airport once again belongs to the state of Esto-

white Estonian Air aircraft manoeuvres to the

nia—would be happy to see a decent profit and

arrival gate, the roar of its engines deafening.

investments. All these interests need to be taken

Nearby, the old terminal building, with its typical

into account in considering future scenarios.

Stalinist architecture, today houses the airport administration. Together with his colleagues,

From time to time, we hear criticism that Tallinn

Erik Sakkov, board member and Marketing Di-

as a flight destination has become marginalised:

rector of the Tallinn Airport, has been working

there are few direct flights and there is only one

on ever more ambitious visions of how to make

flight per day to direct destinations. So it may

Tallinn bigger than it really is. In other words,

happen that you fly out on a business trip from

how to increase the number of flight passengers

Tallinn to London in the morning, but you can-

travelling through the airport of the capital of Es-

not return on the same evening. The airlines

tonia, which has 400,000 inhabitants, from the

which do fly to Tallinn are mainly interested in

current 1.5 million to 3 or even 5 million a year.

taking passengers to large centres or hubs (such as Copenhagen, Frankfurt, Munich and Helsinki)

What do people generally expect from an air-

so that they can be transferred to connecting

port? They want comfortable direct flights,

flights. Businessmen and cultural leaders have

many of them, and they want to feel good in-

also complained that Tallinn is on the periphery

side the terminal building. Airlines want favour-

of European air traffic and that the lack of direct

able prices (some even want free services) and

flights hinders economic development.

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I LIFE IN ESTONIA

27

I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS

Erik Sakkov introducing Estonia as a transit country to Chinese entrepreneurs at the logistics seminar which took place in Shanghai.

Erik Sakkov explains that, currently, there are di-

example of its Latvian competitor airBaltic, which

But how can we make other airlines fly to Tallinn

rect flights from Tallinn to 34 destinations, two of

has been very actively expanding. For some time,

or increase the number of flights? With increased

which are in Estonia. ‘It is the best situation ever

SAS has been in negotiations to sell its share of

numbers.

at our airport. Never before have there been so

the company to the Estonian state.

many direct flights from Tallinn!’ he says. Tallinn

Sakkov says that airlines are only interested in po-

has the best connections with Scandinavia (Hel-

Estonian Air flies to 20 destinations from Tallinn.

tential passenger numbers. Numbers are in many

sinki, Stockholm and Copenhagen).

The big-

In addition, it flies from Vilnius in Lithuania to Am-

ways speculative. ‘I can say whatever I want to

gest air centres in Central and Southern Europe

sterdam, from Tallinn to Kuressaare on Saaremaa

some company about Tallinn, but at the end of

are also covered. The connections with Eastern

Island, and from the spa town Pärnu and the uni-

the day they always ask for a prognosis of pas-

Europe and the former CIS states are somewhat

versity town Tartu to Stockholm. Of the strategi-

senger numbers. Then it is clear that Estonia, with

worse. It comes as a surprise to many that in the

cally important destinations (Top30 destinations),

its 1.4 million inhabitants, is small whichever way

summer season one can board an airplane in

Estonian Air flies to six, departing twice a day or

you look at it,’ he explains. ‘Therefore, we have to

Tallinn and land in Forli in Italy!

with one connecting flight, with a maximum of

expand the services of our airport through transit

an hour and a half waiting time. By the end of the

passengers!’

To a large extent, the national air company Es-

year, the company aims to increase the number of

tonian Air influences what goes on in the Tallinn

those destinations to 14.

Airport, as the company controls about half of the

28

Sakkov sees two ways of increasing passenger numbers.

market share. Whenever the subject of too few

‘Indeed, flight frequencies are a problem for us,’

direct flights from Tallinn comes up, everybody

Sakkov agrees. ‘Airlines would fly to Tallinn seven

Those businessmen who transport their goods

turns their attention to Estonian Air, with good

times a day if there were enough customers. But

through the Port of Tallinn know very well

reason. As the mother company of Estonian Air –

Estonia is so small and no air company is willing

what Estonia’s favourable geographical position

SAS – has for years been financially under stress,

to fly with a half-empty aircraft. The opportunities

means. It means a decrease in time and money,

Estonian Air has been neglected. For years, the

of the airport to influence flight frequencies and

an ice-free sea in the winter, and a crossroads

company has been forced to work without a clear

departure times are almost non-existent. Instead

of trade routes. Sakkov believes that such Esto-

strategy and with limited financial means, and it

of demanding them, we can get better results for

nian advantages could also apply in the field of

is only recently that it has started to follow the

Estonian passengers if we ask nicely.’

aviation.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Passenger growth returning After more than a year and a half of recession, passenger traffic at Tallinn Airport is taking off.

Tallinn Airport served 124,705 passengers in May, which is 8% more than during the same period last year. An average of 100 aircraft movements (landings and take-offs) were handled daily. Two new routes to Warsaw and Oulu were inaugurated, while Estonian Air launched seasonal flights to Berlin, Hamburg and Nice. Lufthansa flights between Munich and Tallinn, which were launched just a few months ago, have already proved to be very popular among travellers.

He grabs a globe from his windowsill and puts his

And whereas most of them will fly straight on

thumb on Beijing. Then he draws a line to Europe

from Tallinn, some may stay and do an excursion

and surprise, surprise....

in Tallinn. There are, after all, very few cities in Europe where an international airport is a five-

‘As we know, airplanes fly in straight lines,’ he

minute car ride from the city centre!

says. ‘When we look at this line we see that Tallinn is closer to China than any other capital in the Eu-

The Tallinn Airport has begun lobbying in Asia.

ropean Union. Only Helsinki is approximately the

The focus is on passenger transit, not just from

same distance away. In other words, they have

China, but also from Seoul, Tokyo, Singapore,

the same geographical advantage when it comes

Hong Kong and Delhi. With the help of Asian

to China as we do. And Finnair already has a really

passengers, the airport could ‘fix’ its numbers,

well-functioning route to Asia!’

and perhaps find an easier way onto the world map with the help of larger and more influential

Now we come to the new vision of the Tallinn Air-

air carriers.

port – to bring Asian tourists to Europe via Tallinn.

The competitive advantages of Estonia’s air transport •

Tallinn Airport is the closest European Union airport to Beijing

•

The shortest flight time between China and European Union

is the flight between Beijing and Tallinn: 7.5 hours

•

Tallinn Airport is situated in the city centre

•

Tallinn Airport is the most modern and up-to-date in Europe,

as acknowledged by the Concrete Building of the Year 2009 Award

•

Tallinn Airport offers major discounts for flight operators that are interested in

establishing air routes between China and the European Union through Tallinn Airport

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

29

I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS Airfield data: • Tallinn Airport has one runway, which is 3070 metres long and 45 metres wide • The length of the parallel taxiway is 2550 metres • The Tallinn Airport category is 4E; navaids CAT I • The fire category is 7 • The number of aircraft parking positions: 4 E-class aircraft 2 D-class aircraft 23 C-class aircraft 4 B-class aircraft 12-15 A-class aircraft

Passenger terminal Tallinn Airport has one passenger terminal with: • 27 check-in desks • 8 self-service check-in kiosks • 4 preflight security control units • 12 gates, nine of which have boarding bridges • 2 business lounges • VIP centre • 3 baggage belts in the arrivals area • Children’s play area and a prayer room • The passenger terminal has three levels, with all departures on the main level. The second level has a gallery for non-Schengen passenger arrivals, as well as a restaurant in the public area. On

In the last few years, Juhan Parts, the Estonian

the ground level, there are car rental offices, as

Minister of Economic Affairs and Communica-

well as direct access to the car park.

tions, has visited the Republic of China with

excellent opportunities for the Tallinn Airport should the Chinese enter the game.

a high level business delegation and received

In addition to the transit of Asian passengers,

• For non-Schengen flights, there are four dedi-

important guests from China in Tallinn. Several

the airport has another plan for increasing pas-

cated gates, boarding lounges, a tax-free shop

collaboration memoranda have been signed.

senger numbers. This is mass tourism brought

and a snack bar

On the surface, it may seem to be an insig-

about by low-cost carriers.

Cargo terminals

nificant friendship between an elephant and a fly, but Sakkov reassures us that the relations

Easyjet flies from Tallinn to London and used

with the Chinese are serious. They have a clear

to fly to Berlin and Milan. Norwegian Airlines

interest in having a say in European aviation,

flies people to Oslo and Wind Jet to Italy. But

and Tallinn, with its excellent location, offers a

that’s all, at the moment. Ryanair is demanding

freight forwarders, and courier and cargo han-

tempting opportunity. Our task is to find part-

special treatment, promising to bring masses

dling companies

ners in Asia with whom to proceed.

of tourists to Estonia if Tallinn does not charge

• Tallinn Airport has four cargo terminals, with total warehouse space of ca 5000 m2 • The cargo terminals are operated by several

airport taxes. However, considering the pain‘I dream of the day when there will be five

ful lessons learned by Riga, the capital of our

large Boeing 747s arriving in Tallinn, full of pas-

neighbour Latvia, it is not possible for an air-

sengers who will be taken all over Europe on

port to prefer one air company over others and

smaller aircraft. Some passengers may easily

to collect taxes from only certain companies.

spend a day or two, or even just four or five hours in Tallinn, as the airport is very close to

Let's be honest – an airport which does not

the city centre,’ says Sakkov.

charge taxes is unable to invest in its terminal.

In 2007, the Tallinn Airport invested over 650

30

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Last autumn, The Economist ran a news item

million kroons in the new terminal building and

which claimed that the Chinese want to take

it is still making a profit, which cannot be said

control of the Estonian national carrier Estonian

of Riga. Despite this, it may be possible that,

Air. Although Minister Juhan Parts called this

in cooperation with the state, the airport will

speculation and the state is continuing talks

find a way to radically lower airport taxes. In

on the sale of Estonian Air, many people see

this way, Estonian passengers will gain new

Business travellers predominate in the Tallinn Airport Of the passengers flying from the Tallinn Airport, 70% are business travellers and 30% tourists. Estonians have started to fly more, as the strong entry of low-cost airlines has reduced prices.

But the large share of business travellers also shows the potential for tourism in Estonia. Only 13% of tourists coming to Estonia arrive here by air and, if we take into account all the one-day visitors, it is only 7%. The average figure in Europe is 49%!

It is true that millions of tourists arrive in Estonia through the Port of Tallinn, travelling from Finland, but it is also true that Estonia as a destination remains undiscovered by many.

destinations, and the citizens and the state will make a profit from servicing tourists arriving on new low-cost airlines.

The pace of business activity in the terminal will pick up when taxes are reduced. According to Sakkov, there could easily be casinos or an amusement park inside the terminal building. Spas in larger European airports are already quite commonplace. ‘We have received some quite interesting news about new flight options. I would love to talk about those options here, but air companies prohibit that strictly due to competition,’ he says excitedly.

SUMMER 2010

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I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS

Text: Rein Sikk, Eesti Päevaleht Photos: Scanpix, Enterprise Estonia

How to create order out of chaos or Why the railways of the smallest Baltic country are the most efficient in the region 32

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

‘Where the railway tracks begin, order ends,’ Kaido Simmermann, Chairman of Eesti Raudtee (Estonian Railways – ed.),

recalls a well-known proverb from his childhood.

His actions today prove the opposite.

Kaido Simmermann Graduated from the Tallinn Polytechnic in radio engineering and from the Tallinn University of Technology in road technology. In 1999, he received a Masters degree from the Tallinn University of Technology in railway construction.

Since 1994, he has been employed by Eesti Raudtee. He started out as Adviser to the Chief Director and, from 1995, worked as Director of Infrastructure. Chairman of the Board since 2007.

From his office located directly below the hill of Toompea, which boasts one

What is your first memory linked to the railways?

of the prettiest views in Tallinn, Kaido Simmermann can see the harbour

I remember that one of my distant relatives was a railway electrician who

and the railway tracks, as well as the owner of the railways, the Estonian

used to take the train between Tallinn and Minsk. I regularly travelled from

government building in its Old Town setting. Hence, all three key elements

Tallinn to Riisipere, where my granny lived. When we moved to Tallinn, we

of success are in his direct line of vision on a daily basis.

lived in the vicinity of the railway tracks. But all of that has nothing to do with choosing my occupation.

Simmermann likes to watch and show his visitors how ships enter the port that everything works. The constant warning sound of the train whistles

When did you make the choice to work for the railway system?

makes it impossible to forget whose office it is and the fact that if Eesti

I studied road construction and, in the Tallinn University of Technology, they

Raudtee does not fight for enlarging its freight capacity today, someone else

also introduced us to the railway system and to the opportunities of working

will do it instead. And competition on the transit market is fierce.

there. Everyone used to tell scary stories about how all order and ability to

and how trains leave the station. It provides a feeling of security, the certainty

think came to an end where the railways began, and how everything there Colleagues regard Simmermann as a person with a phenomenal visual mem-

functioned only in Russian. Yet, at the same time, for me as an Estonian it

ory, someone who knows the 1,229 kilometres of Estonian railways like the

was a new and interesting field. And, in September 1994, one fellow student

back of his own hand. He knows them better than local track specialists,

invited me to work for the railways. But that was a matter of coincidence

whose job it is to spend their days on the railway tracks.

rather than a certain choice I made.

the whole length of the railways at least four times a year. Sometimes Sim-

Please describe what you see as an ideal railway system, something that you, as the Chairman of Eesti Raudtee, strive for.

mermann made twice as many trips as necessary.

When I joined the company, Estonian railways were just the terminus of the

For years, Simmermann was responsible for the whole infrastructure of Eesti Raudtee – the tracks, to put it simply. In order to do the job, he had to travel

Soviet Union railway system, with no big traffic and, in addition, everything In 1992, the situation with the railway company, which had just been na-

was decaying. Today we are about to reach the point where the speed of trains

tionalised, was dire. Back then, Simmermann, who has dedicated his whole

everywhere is 120 kilometres per hour. From that point onwards, it is up to the

working life to the railway system, was a university student and did not even

state of Estonia, as the owner, to decide whether to increase this speed to 160

dream of his current vocation.

kilometres per hour and whether we have the funds for such an investment.

SUMMER 2010

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I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS The competitive advantages of Estonia’s railway transport • Estonian Railways is the most efficient rail operator in Europe • Estonia and Russia are strategic railway transport partners, connected by the same track-width (1,520 mm) railway network.

• Estonians have long-term successful cooperation with the Russian railway transport organisations, which guarantees that goods reach the right destination safely and on time.

• The region’s only regular container train is operated between Estonia and Moscow • In comparison with other European Union countries,

Estonia has low taxes, less bureaucracy and labour costs which are lower by a third.

• Estonian Railways employs electronic exchange of data that would allow for pre-arrival customs processing • Estonia and China are both members of the same international railway organisations:

> International Union of Railways (UIC)

> Organisation for Cooperation Railway Lines (OSJD)

> Coordinating Council on Transsiberian Transportation

We also hope that the flow of goods continues to increase. We don’t just

The volume of goods was significantly lower than it is today and we didn’t

hope, of course; we are continuously working on it to find more goods to

even have the funds to pay out salaries, not to mention maintaining the rail

transfer via the railways and to decrease the waiting times of vehicles bring-

infrastructure. Hence, we had to change things very fast. We had to give up

ing and taking goods to and away from the trains.

everything which wasn’t profitable right then and there.

And we are fortunate to have our big neighbour Russia, whose goods need

For example, after we introduced American locomotives, we kept only fifty

to be transported.

people working on repairs, whereas earlier there were three hundred and

Eesti Raudtee is the most effective railway system in the Baltic States. What does that mean?

fifty of them. That is a significant difference. Today, we have reached the point where when trains come from Russia, some of which are going to the Ust Luuga Port by the Russian harbour, while others are coming to Estonia, then it is the Estonian trains which are unloaded faster, even though their

For example, we employ two to three times fewer personnel than our neigh-

journey is 240 kilometres longer. That is also a sign of our effectiveness.

bours. We had an equal volume of goods freight on the railway as Latvia, when we had 2,500 staff and Latvia 11,000.

Today, the whole Estonian railway economy employs approximately 2,800 workers, but in 1992 there were 15,000 and, when I started in this job,

However, the story goes back to 1992, when the state of Estonia became

there were 9,000. Our neighbours have 16,000-17,000 employees. Again,

the owner of the railways and we had no funds whatsoever. The state had

a significant difference.

no money and the railways had no money. The finances from Moscow were cut off.

34

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Eesti Raudtee in figures 2009 • Profit from sales: 1516.7 million kroons • Net profit: 120.4 million kroons • Investments: 609.6 million kroons • Capital: 2174.6 million kroons • Total length of railways: 1,229 km • Number of stations: 63 • Locomotives: 79 • Carriages: 2,982 • 25.38 million tons of goods were transferred on Eesti Raudtee. Transit provided 80.2% of the goods volume for the year: 20.33 million tons.

Goods traffic was up by 7.9% in comparison with 2008.

• Container train ‘Moscow Express’ can take 123 average size containers to Moscow at once.

• The main transit goods travelling through Estonia are oil products, fertilizers and coal.

• The biggest partners of Eesti Raudtee are Estonian ports: the Port of Tallinn, the Port of Sillamäe and the Port of Paldiski.

Hundred and fifty years of trains The first railway in Estonia was opened in 1870 between Paldiski-TallinnNarva-Gatshina, which in the same year was connected to the St PetersburgWarsaw railway.

Thanks to the birth of the Baltic railways, the practically ice-free harbour of Tallinn started to develop and a large grain elevator was built there.

In 1877, the Tapa-Tartu connection was opened and, in 1887, it was lengthened to reach Valga, where it was connected to the Pskov-Riga railway.

The independent company Eesti Raudtee (EVR) was founded in 1918.

The national enterprise Eesti Raudtee was created on 1 January 1992.

Juhan Parts, Estonian Minister of Economics, says that in a year we can open

So today you can claim that where the railways begin, so does order?

a fast connection between Tallinn and Warsaw, with trains going at a speed of 120 kilometres per hour, which would reach the destination in 17 hours, and it is possible to reduce this time to 12 hours. The greatest cost, in terms of time, is the changing of carriage wheels, as the railways of Estonia and

Indeed. If we consider just regular cleanliness, then we can see that

Poland have different widths. The cost of the project for Estonia is a billion

the surrounding areas of Eesti Raudtee are very tidy. And we have

kroons.

great discipline, in the military sense, as with rapidly moving heavy trains we cannot allow for any outbreaks of creativity.

Can you tell me more about one of the symbols of Eesti Raudtee and transit – the container shuttle ‘Moscow Express’?

Since summer 2007, we have had a regular container train travelling to and from Russia, on average one and a half times per week, but also more frequently if necessary. The Finns, Latvians and Lithuanians have not succeeded in putting such a train in operation. Now we are about to open another container line to Moscow.

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I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS

And thanks to the container train you get rid of the tiresome reloading of goods?

Yes, precisely. Ships arrive at the ports with full containers and the containers

EXPO has representatives of the whole Estonian transit sector this year – the ports, railways and car carriers.

So you go as a unified team?

are loaded directly onto the train with the help of our new cranes. We have special trestles for loading, which greatly speeds up the task.

This is our strategy. We will not speak separately for ourselves but we will all speak for Estonia. And if we manage to put Estonia on the map in China, we

However, the biggest destination of our containers today is not Moscow but

will have plenty of time to sort out in Estonia who gets what type of goods

Afghanistan. NATO has chosen Estonia to be the starting point for its con-

and how the transport will take place. I am happy about this collaboration.

tainer traffic. Our containers also travel regularly to Central Asia and Odessa in the Crimea.

This summer everybody who works in the Estonian transit and logistics sector is talking about the EXPO in Shanghai, China. What are the interests of Eesti Raudtee there?

Please point out the reasons why companies might want to cooperate with Eesti Raudtee?

Eesti Raudtee is free to make its purchases and shape its prices – we do not need to ask for anybody’s permission to make decisions.

Our collaboration with ports and terminals is fast and effective.

We foresee, and we hope, that the well-developed seaside areas of China will be able to send their goods by ocean-class ships straight to the Port of

The goods are loaded quickly, no goods go missing and they always end up

Tallinn and from there onwards to Russia in containers.

at the right destination. Eesti Raudtee has no corruption, nothing where you have to pay more in order to move faster. Those two points – no theft and

And there is another direction: China is already moving its production units

no corruption – are extremely important to owners.

toward central China and from there goods could be taken through Kaza-

36

khstan and Russia directly to northern Europe. We are already working in

In addition, Eesti Raudtee offers a set freight price for a long period of time.

this direction.

Our contracts do not include any unplanned extra costs.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

The motto of the Port of Tallinn is ‘The port that ships love’.

Text: Lauri Linnamäe, ERR Photos: Scanpix, Enterprise Estonia

Estonia strives to enter the route of the new Silk Road

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I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS Ain Kaljurand, Chairman of the Board of the Port of Tallinn is happy as two reputable delegations from China visited the port - in March, the delegation of Lianyungang Port

Ain Chairman ofalternative therailBoard ofroutethe Port Group LtdKaljurand, and Shipping China with the objective of establishing an freight forwarding for cargo containersof between China and Europe (so-called Land Bridge), and in May, a delegation led by Jianmin Hua, Vice Chairman of the 11th Standing Committee of the National People’s Congress Tallinn is happy as two reputable delegations fromof the People’s Republic of China.

At the meeting held at the Port Headquarters the distinguished visitor learnt about the operations and future plans of the Port of Tallinn.

China visited the port - in March, the delegation of Lianyungang Port Group Ltd and Shipping China with the objective of establishing an alternative rail freight forwarding route for cargo containers between China and Europe (so-called Land Bridge), and in May, a delegation led by Jianmin Hua, Vice Chairman of the 11th Standing Committee of the National People’s Congress of the People’s Republic of China. At the meeting held at the Port Headquarters the distinguished visitor learnt about the operations and future plans of the Port of Tallinn.

The year is 2008. There are Chinese visitors at the Port of Tallinn signing an

has been put on hold. However, the delegation of transport and logistical

agreement to develop a container terminal at the Muuga harbour. On the

enterprises which visited Shanghai in June was pleased with the results of

leaflet which has been specially printed for the occasion, the sea route from

the visit and returned filled with hope for the future.

China to Estonia is almost a direct line – Africa has completely disappeared from the map and even Europe has shrunk in size to make way.

The global economic crisis which exploded in 2008 has not altered the vision that trade is rapidly growing in the globalising world, and it is also clear that

38

Let’s be honest; everyone who has ever seen a proper map of the world

each year more and more goods travel in containers. All of the states on the

will have some questions when confronted with the idea of the Chinese-

shores of the Baltic Sea have invested in container terminals. In 2010, there

Estonian shipping route. Of course, the ever more powerful China must find

are numerous container terminals on the Baltic Sea. However, there is no

a way to take its goods to the European market, but it isn’t enough to sail

hub where goods can be taken on really big container ships and from where

around half of Asia, now there is a need to sail around Europe as well to

smaller ships can transport them all around the Baltic region. The closest

reach Muuga!

establishment to such a hub is the Port of Gdansk in Poland.

Fortunately, the logic of the transport business is not just about simple

It would be naive to think that the European Union countries around the

measurements of distances on a map. Shipping products to the markets of

Baltic Sea have lined up and are waiting for a windfall, like candidates in a

north-western Russia, Scandinavia and the eastern part of the EU from the

beauty contest. A powerful regionally important container terminal is a great

eastern coast of China, the most powerful industrial area of the country, by

advantage, considering future trade flows, and for that no effort is too great.

sea is many times cheaper than sending them by train transport. And there

The train and flight connections between China and the Baltic region can

is no doubt that Chinese companies want to reach this region with their

also only grow. Although it is obvious that from the point of view of China

goods: it is, after all, a wealthy market and, in addition, the next decades

Estonia seems a small, distant and cold place, local entrepreneurs and the

are predicted to bring a rapid increase in living standards and consumerism

state are convinced that they have good arguments for Chinese companies

in north-western Russia.

to consider doing big business in Estonia.

In 2010, the situation in Estonia due to the economic depression means that

During the Shanghai visit of the business delegation organised by Enterprise

the aforementioned collaboration memorandum with the Port of Ningbo

Estonia and the Ministry of Economic Affairs and Communications, which

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

The competitive advantages of Estonian maritime transportation and harbours: •

The largest port on the Baltic Sea, in respect to both goods and passenger traffic, is located in Estonia

'• The deepest Baltic Sea harbours are in Estonia, and they are able to receive large ocean-going vessels •

Estonian harbours are ice free and easily navigable all year round

•

The sea level in Estonia remains constant; there are no significant tides

•

Europe’s easternmost harbour is in Estonia, located only 25 km from the border between the European Union and Russia

•

Estonian waters are easily navigable

•

Vessels have easy and safe access to Estonian harbours

•

Europe’s most efficient terminals are situated at Estonian harbours, so the reloading of goods is performed faster than in other European harbours

•

Estonian ports follow European Union safety rules and regulations

•

Estonian harbours are unique in Europe, in the sense that there is still plenty of land available for the construction of new terminals

•

Estonian harbours have the most modern infrastructure and technology in Europe

•

In Estonia, free economic zones are located directly at the harbours

was led by Minister Juhan Parts, there were meetings with approximately

million solvent consumers in 48 hours. After all, a branch of the historical Silk

120 Chinese entrepreneurs, leading to concrete interest in Estonia among

Road also passed through Estonia.

most of them.

The potential of trading with China becomes obvious when we consider that ‘Large companies became interested in Estonia’s ice-free harbours and in

today China ranks 16th in our list of trading partners. It shouldn’t remain so,

railway projects. Hence, in the next few months, we are expecting Chinese

according to our Minister of Economic Affairs and Communications, Juhan

logistics companies to visit Estonia, where they will get better acquainted

Parts, in Shanghai. ‘Estonia is interested in taking on the role it had during

with the opportunities on offer here,’ commented Rene Varek, the coordina-

the Hanseatic League days. Our own market is small, but we can add value

tor of the Shanghai business mission.

in transport and logistics considering the large market which surrounds us,’ the minister said. ‘If we consider the share of all trade, it is truly small... but it

One of the important aspects of the visit of the business delegation to Esto-

will grow quickly. We are also working to make Estonian businesses look into

nia was that the presence of our minister helped to provide access to the top

what’s on offer in China, so that we will, first of all, overcome the psychologi-

leaders of Chinese logistics companies.

cal barrier of China being too far, too different culturally and all sorts of other risks. There are many opportunities hidden here for Estonian companies.’

Estonia has quite a lot to offer to Chinese logistics companies, even if we consider that the distance by sea from China to Muuga is a really long one.

In addition to the transport of goods, the transport of people is an area with

We should mention the ice-free harbours, which are undoubtedly among the

an even bigger potential for development. In 2009, 4,000 Chinese citizens

most efficient and modern in the region, but also Estonia’s financially stable

stayed overnight in Estonia. The growing Chinese middle class will be one

society and transparent tax system, which is a critical issue in the biggest

of the most powerfully growing tourism groups in the next few years. This

ports of the Gulf of Finland.

year, the Chinese will make 50 million foreign trips, but the Chinese Tourism Board is predicting that, in ten years, 100 million Chinese people will travel

Whereas the ‘backyard’ of Poland is the eastern side of the European Union,

abroad each year. The delegation of tourism companies which visited Shang-

a big ‘selling point’ for Estonia is the vicinity of the European and north-west

hai before the logistics companies organised tourism days at the Estonian

Russian markets. Or, in words which the owners and shippers want to hear,

pavilion at EXPO. Their goal was an ambitious one – to increase the number

Estonia is a central location in Northern Europe, where products reach 300

of Chinese tourists staying in Estonia by 50% in two years.

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I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS We are centrally located in Northern Europe, surrounded by big cities

Estonian logistics sector successfully back from China

which are home to hundreds of

The leaders of the Estonian logistics sector met Chinese entrepreneurs at

millions of solvent

the Shanghai Logistics and Transport Fair and the EXPO World Exhibition in

consumers.

China. Participants included top level representatives of the Tallinn Airport, Estonian Railways, Port of Tallinn, Port of Sillamäe and other organisations.

The delegation was led by Juhan Parts, the Estonian Minister of Economic Affairs and Communications.

Urmas Kõiv, chief organiser of the Shanghai business mission: A logistics seminar, with many participants, and several business meetings were organised as part of the international business mission of the Estonian logistics sector initiated by Enterprise Estonia and the Estonian Ministry of Economic Affairs and Communications. At those meetings, we introduced the logistically good location of Estonia, which is a direct route to solvent consumers in the EU, as well as promoting the speed of services and the effective cooperation of our ports and railways. Thanks to the participation of Minister Juhan Parts, we were able to meet with the top leaders of the most important logistics companies, which will definitely facilitate the fast development of relationships essential in China. We managed to generate specific interest among Chinese businessmen, and already the first agreements have been made for the visits of several companies to Estonia. The mission to China was one part of the larger international marketing project of the Estonian logistics sector, which has the aim of increasing the awareness of Estonian products and services in important target markets in Asia, Russia and Europe.

Rene Varek, moderator of the Shanghai business mission: We met with 120 Chinese entrepreneurs. Large companies became interested in Estonia’s ice-free harbours, as well as in railway projects. Hence, in the next few months, we are expecting Chinese logistics companies to visit Estonia, where they will get better acquainted with the opportunities on offer here.

Maria Alajõe, board member of Enterprise Estonia: We explained to potential business partners what the competitive advantages of the Estonian logistical location and the logistics sector are. The Chinese entrepreneurs were clearly interested. Considering the concrete outcomes of those meetings, we can say that the logistics sector mission exceeded our expectations. The process of getting your foot in the door in the Chinese market is a very slow one; the most important thing here is consistency and making contacts.

Juhan Parts, Minister of Economic Affairs and Communications: It is clear that the export of Chinese goods is showing a growing trend and the Chinese are seeking routes to Europe. It is equally clear that nothing will happen overnight. In today’s situation, it was extremely important to show ourselves as being at the highest level in China and to provide opportunities for the leaders of Estonian and Chinese companies to interact face to face. And the fact that the entire Estonian logistics sector went to China together gave a clear signal that we have a joint interest in transporting Chinese goods.

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

The competitive advantages of Estonia’s logistical location and the logistics sector: •

Estonia is the geographical midpoint of northern Europe and therefore the best place for Chinese enterprises to set up their distribution centres and to generate added value for their goods

•

The historical Silk Road reaches Estonia – a most efficient trade route

INTERVIEW

from China to north-west Russia and northern Europe •

Europe’s most effective rail operator, Europe’s most modern and upto-date airport and the largest port on the Baltic Sea are all located in Estonia

•

Estonians have long-term experience in trading with Russia, which ensures that goods dispatched reach the correct destination safely and in a timely manner

•

When goods are forwarded through Estonia, all the applicable European Union safety standards and requirements are enforced

SUN YAN SHENG

International Director of Shipping China The transport and logistics business delegation to Shanghai is happy with the outcome of their visit: they feel they have sparked significant interest in major Chinese entrepreneurs.

The interest from Estonian businesses is clear, but how would you describe Chinese interest in Estonia? After all, there are roughly a thousand Chinese for every Estonian.

Our interest has nothing to do with the size of the population of Estonia. I personally visited it at the beginning of the year, and it is a very beautiful place for a vacation. And, from the business perspective, it is a place with great potential. Not in terms of consumption, but it’s a perfect place for a transit hub.

First of all, because of the location, it’s a great place

The advantages of investments to Estonia:

to connect to Russia and the CIS countries, and also the Scandinavian region. The second reason is the availability of land resources, which Estonia is very rich

• • •

• • •

Estonian transport, logistics, manufacturing, aviation, tourism and other sectors are open

in. And the government has a very favourable policy

to foreign investments from China

in terms of renting land to overseas companies. By

The People’s Republic of China and the Republic of Estonia have signed the Agreement

combining these two advantages, I believe Estonia can

on the Promotion and Reciprocal Protection of Investments

develop very advanced warehousing facilities and be-

Estonia is strategically situated at the midpoint of northern Europe, surrounded by such

come a distribution centre for the Scandinavian region,

major cities as Moscow, St Petersburg, Helsinki, Kotka, Stockholm, Copenhagen, Oslo,

the CIS and Russia, because people in those countries

Warsaw, Riga and Minsk

don’t want to wait too long after they have paid for

The goods dispatched from Estonia reach 50 million solvent consumers within 24 hours

something. And Estonia has a clear IT advantage,

and 300 million in 48 hours

which is fundamental for future business. The third ad-

Estonia is the midpoint of northern Europe and therefore the best possible location for

vantage is labour. Estonian employees are well trained,

Chinese enterprises looking to do business both in the European Union and in Russia

and the average labour cost is relatively lower than in

Estonians have long-term experience in doing business with both Russia and Europe.

Scandinavia. These three advantages, I believe, should

Taking advantage of relevant Estonian know-how provides an easy entry point to Russian

be very interesting for Chinese business.

and European Union markets •

Estonia is the geographical midpoint of northern Europe and therefore the best place for Chinese enterprises to set up their distribution centres and to generate added value for their goods

• • •

Do you see trade ties between China and Estonia being much closer in ten years than they are now?

Estonian harbours are unique in Europe, in the sense that there is still plenty of land available for the construction of new terminals

I don’t think it will take ten years. The fact that a min-

It is easy to do business in Estonia. Compared to other European Union countries, Estonia

ister led the business delegation to China showed that

has lower tax rates and less bureaucracy, and the labour costs are lower by one-third

the Estonian government strongly supports the coop-

Estonian business culture is innovation driven; for example SKYPE www.skype.com was

eration. It’s a very good signal to Chinese companies.

developed in Estonia

So I think it will happen much faster.

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41

I ECONOMY AND BUSINESS The triumph of containers TEU (short for twenty-foot equivalent unit) is the measurement for container loads, which stands for a 20-foot long inter-modal standard container that is eight feet in height and width and 20 feet in length. In our terms, this means a container with a capacity of 38.5 cubic metres.

The first generation container ships (from the 1950s and 60s) were mostly re-built tankers which could load up to 1,000 TEU. Back then, goods freight in standardized containers was an experimental form of transport and rebuilding ships was the cheapest way for ship owners to participate.

The building of real container ships began in the 1970s, when container traffic had proved itself and started to spread. As a rule, the capacity of the second generation container ships was 1,000-2,500 TEU, with 4,000 TEU as a maximum.

The third generation were the ‘Panamax’ ships. These were the largest vessels which could fit through the Panama Canal. The limit was approximately 4,500 TEU. The fourth generation of container ships, which were built at the beginning of this century, was the ‘post-Panamax’ class. Those ships, which are longer than 300 metres, can take between 4,500-10,000 containers. Most of the container ships on the seas and oceans today belong to this class; a ship with a capacity of 8,000 TEU is considered a very large one even in 2010. Such

At sea, it’s size that counts

ships make it possible to save significantly on the transport of goods, but only a few ports are able to receive them. In addition to the ability of a port to accommodate such large ships, servicing such a ship requires expensive infrastructure at the harbour.

Wherever the infrastructure of the ports allows, there is a new generation called the Suezmax emerging. As the name indicates, the limits to this generation are set by the physical size of the Suez Canal. The limits are not entirely fixed, but theoretically this means a ship with approximately 14,000 TEU.

More than 80% of trade transport takes place via sea, and container transport is undoubtedly the fastest growing part of it. Although the economic crisis has led to a decrease in trade volume, it is once again showing a growth trend and there is no reason to predict a change in that trend in the near future. For shipping companies, this means that the pressure is on to build ever bigger container ships, which in turn compels ports to receive ever bigger ships.

Just a few years ago, when consumer demand in the world was growing, shipping companies had no time to order new and bigger container ships – in order to keep up with the demand, it made more sense to cut existing ships in half and to weld big pieces of ships in between.

This is exactly what the Lloyds ship factory did three years ago with its two ships Stena Hollandica and Stena Britannica, and both ships left the factory a third longer. In a month and a half, the company gained 2,300 metres of container space on the two boats.

The trend with new ships is also the same – ever larger. Whereas once the width and depth of the Panama Canal set the limit for the size of container ships, today there are boats which are twice as big and the measurements are set by the Suez Canal.

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

PORTFOLIO_TÕNIS VINT

Mythological graphics. Z26.

I 1984-96

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I LIFE IN ESTONIA

43

Mythological graphics. Z5.

I 1986-96

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Mythological graphics. Z15.

I 1985-96

Moses Strikes the Rock and Water Comes Out of It. 1998 I 120x95 I Oil on canvas

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I LIFE IN ESTONIA

45

Mythological graphics. Z25.

I 1983-96

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Mythological graphics. Z11.

I 1984-96

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I LIFE IN ESTONIA

47

The GM and GS series.

I 1989-90

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Night visions 4 and 2.

I 1980

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49

Light houses 16 and 14.

I 1998

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Tõnis Vint Born 22.04.1942 in Tallinn, Estonia Graduated Estonian Academy of Arts in 1967.

Member of artists’ group ANK’64.

Theoretical leader of artists’ group Studio22 since 1972.

Estonian Cultural Prize 1991.

Selected solo exhibitions Tallinn Art Hall Gallery 1968, 1974 Art Museum of Estonia, Tallinn 1984 Draakon Gallery, Tallinn 1986 Heinola, Finland 1987 Leeuwarden, The Netherlands 1990 Deco Gallery, Tallinn 1993, 1997 Haus Gallery, Tallinn 2005 Gallery G, Tallinn 2007 Selected group exhibitions Exhibitions of ANK’64 1964-1995 Exhibitions of Studio22 1989-2002 Cracow Print Biennial 1970 (prize), 1972 Biella Print Biennial 1971 Lyubliana Print Biennial 1971, 1973, 1975, 1983, 1987 Venice Biennial 1972 Lodzh Museum 1972 Warsaw Poster Biennial 1972, 1974, 1984 Rijeka Biennial 1972, 1974 (prize), 1976 Joan Miro Biennial in Barcelona 1973 Vienna Biennial 1973, 1975 Tokyo Biennial 1976 Heidelberg Biennial 1988 Karlsruhe 1992 Grinnell 2001 Art Museum of Estonia 2003

Tõnis Vint Tõnis Vint is an artist who was and has remained,

we compare historical image systems, in which

purose was both to create and expose a myste-

throughout the decades, determinedly independ-

we seek inspiration for our creative work. And we

rious message within the structures and forms.

ent from the established art world. He played an

make an effort to unite our personal experiences

enormous role in teaching and supporting young

with these existing ones. Indeed, it is as if we re-

Ancient wise men could read the signs of nature,

artists. In the beginning of the 1970’s, Vint’s

move ourselves from this world to commune with

and they in turn retained their knowledge in a

home became a place where people gathered to

a timeless remoteness. Our new objectivity does

language of signs. One part of Studio22’s educa-

discuss about art. Vint’s followers formed the art-

not seek, however, to represent a visual reality, but

tional process is to create a language of images

ists’ group called Studio22.

rather to reveal a system hidden behind that reality.

specific to each individual. Each artist’s specific

In Tõnis Vint’s words: Studio22 is a creative group

Studio22 found its inspiration in the ancient cul-

exercise in which he draws hundreds of simple

of artists as well as a studio where every year new

tures and aesthetics of the Far East. This ancient

images within a sircle or square. These images,

members are trained. One of the main educational

art was highly mystical, and as in the European

hidden deep in the subconscience, appear spon-

goals is to make known views on cultural heritage

cultural tradition of geomancy - a practice of divi-

taneously and serve to disclose each artist’s un-

that differ from the traditional ones. To do this,

nation using random geometrical patterns - its

known language of symbols.

language is revealed in a stream of conciousness

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Wandering cultures Text: Tõnis Vint

We live in a world where centuries are no longer needed for differ-

do not take into account smaller groups of people that travelled for

ent cultures to influence each other. Distances separating peoples and

thousands of kilometres and spread their knowledge centuries ago.

cultures are no longer an obstacle and an impact can take place in just a few moments. Modern technology makes that possible. Creative

Such thousands of kilometres separate the Far East and northern Eu-

ideas can find more fertile soil for development in new and different

rope. But in southern Siberia, where the tributary called the Oja flows

surroundings.

into the Jenissei, archaeologists have found hundreds of small ritual mirrors of ancient China, some of which have texts written in Scandi-

52

Maybe our concept of history has been too limited? Why were changes

navian runes. And some of the earliest Celtic stone crosses in Ireland

only seen after whole nations moved from one place to another? We

bear the Chinese character SHOU, meaning ‘longevity’, in the centre.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Similarly surprising finds exist in Estonia. In the former Livonian territory

Ancient tales and myths also travelled together with signs and symbols. It is

(southern Estonia and northern Latvia) the holy belts of our forefathers,

much more difficult to find parallels here. Rulers and beliefs changed, and

which bear hundreds of geometric signs, have been found. The belts are

grains of truth disappeared with those changes. Due to the spread of Chris-

several metres in length. The signs on the belts are amazingly similar to those

tianity, there was a strong reorientation in northern Europe to Mediterranean

depicted in the oldest Chinese seals. Each image which forms an ornamental

culture. It wasn’t until the 19th century romanticists that the ancient magical

whole on the belts is an independent process. It has its own energy and

world-view became honoured again. In art, this became the foundation for

duration. The same applies to the Chinese Book of Changes, I CHING, where

the creation of individual mythology, while literary context formed only a dis-

each hexagram forms an independent time in the larger chain of linear time.

tant basis. The individual emotional translation of events began to dominate.

This made it possible to exit the frames of ordinary storytelling and open the

Geometric ornamental structures also have psychological activity. Thousands

level of the collective subconscious. Such a creative process, however, tied

of years ago they were used as protective talismans and their structures

the creator much more closely to the forgotten world of his forefathers and

formed the basic scheme of art works.

showed surprising links with distant cultures.

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I DESIGN

The mushroom between the sea and the forest

Text: Villu Kangur / Photos: Portel

On the global scale, Estonia is such a tiny dot that the efforts of local small entrepreneurs to make themselves visible in the market often end up with them running out of stamina. Hence, sometimes an upside down truth applies: do something which is so original that people come to find you.

Seene (mushroom – ed.) Farm is located about a 45-minute drive from the Estonian capital of Tallinn. The locals themselves call it Seene Koda (Mushroom Chamber). But goats are not raised nor turnips grown here – instead it is a farm of ideas.

Both hosts of the farm are interior designers by profession. They got the desire to work from home from the practical desire to not commute to the city every day. What, after all, can you bring home from the city? They just moved away from the mass produce and kitsch which was all around. Whenever you chance upon something you truly like in a shop, it is either unbelievably expensive or of limited quantity. This as a rule means that the cost is even higher.

Old felt boots It all began when Piret Port, the founder of the company Portel, found a pair of old felt boots from the early 20th century in her childhood home. They had been collecting dust in the attic her entire lifetime. Just waiting for the right moment. Once again, it was confirmed that the new is the forgotten old.

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

As Piret’s partner, Aavo Ermel was a dedicated user of Apple products, and

www.geekosystem.com claimed their iPad sleeve to be the best of its

he had long been looking for appropriate sleeves for his MacBook and iPod.

kind. The presentation of the product was also praised. What is strangest

As he couldn’t find any, he decided to make them himself. At the same time,

however is that the compiler of the Top list mentioned that the product by

Piret was looking for an appropriate genuine leather handbag. Help came

Portel, with its retro-modern aesthetics, reminded him of the shoes that he

from none other than.... Steve Jobs.

had been looking for and could never find. Had the old felt boots dreamed of that! Other praiseworthy comments followed in various analogous Inter-

It is no secret that Estonia is an innovative country. Skype was developed

net portals.

here. Here we use mobile parking, and make payments and vote electronically. Many people have no need to leave their houses, as most things can be

The feedback from the Etsy store is also all high praise. They commend the

done on computers. But those computers and mobile phones nonetheless

fast shipping and quality of the products. Piret Port mentions that it couldn’t

need protective covers, especially when your home is somewhere between

be otherwise. Each product is a unique handicraft which has been made with

the forest and the sea, and you may be doing your daily job just sitting on

joy and love. ‘Our goal is to design things which we ourselves would like to

the beach or on a tree trunk.

have. All of them bear our signature.’ Indeed, none of the products made

by Portel bear any sign of characterless mass production. No two products

At the same time that Jobs was planning to present the first iPad in the

are alike.

USA, the folks at Seene Koda were looking for a way to link the useful and the pleasant. As soon as the measurements of the iPad were made public,

The reason for Portel’s success is that they use materials that are 100% natu-

the first Portel product was created. Of course, it was made out of felt and

ral. This is no typical success story however. Portel could be doing better if

genuine leather. This was shortly followed by a whole series of i-sleeves. So

the company put their money into rubber, latex, nylon and other industrial

the first iPad sleeves made by Portel were sold online, even before the iPad

materials, and geared its production to mass consumption, people who are

itself made it onto the market. So much for felt boots.

looking for a ridiculously low price and not quality. When it comes to Portel’s

The creator’s signature

price policy, it seems that the price and quality ratio are not in balance: the quality is clearly under-priced.

iPad went on sale in the States much earlier than it did in Europe. Therefore, the first customers of Portel came from the other side of the world. Imme-

‘No matter in which direction we develop, nothing will go out of this house

diately, positive feedback followed. At the beginning of April, the website

which we ourselves would not buy or desire,’ say Piret and Aavo.

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I DESIGN

Of course, this may mean that the price of new products will be slightly high-

with the prices of those products. In Estonia, there are animal rights activists

er, but they are also investing more time in them. The first products made of

who sometimes move around and beat their drums in front of large shop-

real leather are ready. Most importantly, if you personally get in touch with

ping centres. Instead, they should fight against animal raising becoming a

Portel, you can order a completely unique product which has been made

big industry. Most of the materials and accessories which Portel uses in its

to your taste specifically. Of course, your taste should not be below what

products come from local producers. This eliminates the threat of you buy-

the designer considers to be good taste. However, Portel does not see such

ing yet another multicultural gadget which has no sun in it, and is full of

customers for its product group.

chemicals. There is only a little sun in Estonia. Sometimes we talk of summer

Wolves and bears in folk costumes Although other countries generally view Estonia as an Eastern European

here as three or four nice days a year, but that’s all the more reason to take this light in. And it is a good thing when it comes back to others through our own handicrafts.

country, Estonians themselves consider it to be a Nordic country. Scandinavian design has a high reputation everywhere. The Baltic countries are usu-

Fortunately, Portel is today also supported by Enterprise Estonia. ‘We are

ally lumped together but Estonians have a totally unique taste and sense of

indeed hoping to purchase a basic installation for our workshop, but we will

what is beautiful. Fortunately! This is not a criticism of our neighbours, just

never become a big industrial producer,’ says Piret. ‘At the moment, we are

the realisation that Estonians prefer to live poorly as long as something does

even skiving by hand in our leather business. We will remain a small enter-

not hurt the eye. And when they cannot find something suitable for their

prise in the best handicraft sense of the word.’

demanding taste, they prefer to make it themselves. The main thing is that it also be practical. The fifty years of Soviet occupation turned many things

Portel can still keep up with its demand for production. At least they work

upside down here, but a positive aspect is that our handicraft tradition was

without looking at the watch or what day of the week it is. The sales pre-

not forgotten, but kept developing. A song by one Estonian comedian talks

dominantly take place online. But when they have some spare time in the

about how a man built a washing machine out of a beetroot. Not surprising

autumn, they will go mushroom picking. Estonians usually tell people to ‘go

at all! The main thing is that it works.

pick mushrooms’ when they want to send them to hell. In the hope that they will not return. In real life, everything is upside down. Seene Farm itself

Another famous actor has admitted that because of the illustrations in one

originally had another name but the new owners renamed it. Estonia just

children’s book, he had the idea as a young boy that wolves and bears in

happens to be one of the few countries in Europe where most citizens get

our forests wore folk costumes and carried folk instruments. People still ask

their winter reserves directly from nature. Why? This does not come from

Estonians whether it is true that in our forests those animals roam around

greed, but from the fact that we have unspoilt nature. In the eyes of the

freely. Of course they do! But the chance of meeting one of them is much

world, we are in the middle of nowhere. However, there are things to be

smaller than the chance of you accidentally buying some useless items from

found here which, unfortunately, cannot be found anywhere else. Why not

the store.

share them with others?

The whole world is full of animal furs which have been sprayed with pesticides and produced on mass production lines, and no-one can compete

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

For a closer look, visit www.portel.ee

Children’s high chair wins noted design award Julia Maria Künnap has won the Red Dot design prize with a children’s high chair created for her own needs Julia Maria Künnap, better known as a jewellery designer and the only Estonian representative at the Red Dot design competition this year, created her child chair because she could not find one for sale which she wanted to have in her household.

‘Most children’s high chairs available in shops and on the Internet were ugly, heavy and clumsy,’ she

There are plans to start producing the children’s

says. ‘Some were uncomfortable for the child and

high chair in Estonia. Preparations for production

others had all sorts of extra stuff – supports and

are currently under way, and presumably the chair

pillows – which clearly inhibit the child’s physical

will also be on sale online at marimari.ee.

development.’

A total of 57 countries took part in the Red Dot The children’s high chair, called Mari, has been

competition and, in addition to Estonia, only

tested on several children in the last year. The de-

Puerto Rico can boast a hundred per cent success

signer had a unique opportunity to work without

rate. Altogether 4,252 works were submitted

days off – to watch the child’s behaviour in the

to the competition and, of those, only 45 were

chair three times a day, and to evaluate the chair’s

selected in 17 product categories, which is only

resilience and safety. The chair is compact, and

slightly over one per cent.

needs no assembly or regular adjustment according to the child’s growth. It has a simple form: an

The prizes will be awarded in July 2010 at the

upholstered bottom and a soft ring for holding

Aalto Theater in Essen, Germany. The Red Dot

and for supporting the child’s back. It suits every

award, which goes back to 1955, has been given

environment, from home to public spaces. The

to two entries from Estonia before. Martin Pärn

Mari chair weighs under 2.5 kilograms and it can

received it in 1998 for his foldable table and the

be easily lifted with one hand. The chair is made

agency Loovvool in 2008 for the visual identity of

of real leather and chrome steel.

the Kaerajaan Restaurant in Tallinn.

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I TOURISM

EXPO 2010:

Why do they sing in the Estonian pavilion?

Text: Tiina J천geda, Eesti Ekspress Photos: Tiina J천geda, Tarmo Haud

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Every day at 6pm, there is a choir karaoke in the Estonian pavilion. Familiar Estonian and Chinese melodies fill the dimly lit hall and the words are displayed in Estonian, Chinese and English on a large screen.

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I TOURISM For half an hour, the pavilion guides in their strawberry patterned uniforms turn into choir singers or even rock stars. In an instant, the pavilion guests are turned into singers: some sing boldly into the microphone, others hum more modestly or just tap their feet in time to the tunes.

The song festivals which take place in Tallinn every five years (this tradition, which began in 1869, is approximately the same age as EXPO) form an important part of the Estonian identity. Individualists by nature, at the Song Festival Grounds tens of thousands of Estonians join forces. More and more tourists plan their visits to Estonia to coincide with this famous festival, as the colourful folk costumes and the energy of traditional songs and dances are something to be experienced – more so because this event is not targeted at tourists but is the real embodiment of national feeling. We may be small in numbers but we can be loud – this is the message also taken to China by the mini song festivals in the Shanghai EXPO 2010 pavilion.

Chinese people, whose culture includes rice cultivation, which is not possible on your own, should really grasp the idea of such joint singing.

The bank of good ideas

Introducing Estonia in the restricted area of the pavilion - from Skype to Carmen Kass

The sounds flowing into the fair street attract more and more people to the small but colourful pavilion. ‘What country is this?’ they ask. Tourists who

Traditionally, the idea behind EXPO has been to demonstrate the industrial

collect stamps and put them into their special EXPO passports are in such a

products of the participating countries and to promote their technology. In

hurry that they have no time to look at the bright words ‘savecity.org’ and

the 160 years of EXPO history, introductions have included such miraculous

‘Estonia’ on the pavilion wall. Many are aware that it is the piggy house!

things as the telephone, diesel engine, electric bulb, Eiffel Tower, sewing ma-

The 33 giant colourful piggy banks, which are a metre high, have made the

chine, waffle cone and many other things without which we couldn’t really

Estonian pavilion famous. The piggy banks were created to collect good and

imagine our daily life in the 21st century. Today the focus is on industrialisa-

positively surprising ideas which can be used to change life in future cities

tion, cultural exchange and brands which introduce your country. ‘Did you

for the better. Each piggy bank also has a message to deliver. We speak of

know that Skype was developed in Estonia?’ the Estonian student guides of

innovation, of saving, and of recycling in the context of global urbanisation.

the pavilion ask the visitors in Chinese. ‘Did you know that supermodel Car-

This is Estonia’s message.

men Kass is Estonian?’

Another message of the Estonian pavilion is that you don’t have to sing in order to be heard – you can also do it silently, by voting and giving your vote to an idea which could change life in today’s cities for the better, including sustainable housing, recycling of materials, availability of domestically grown healthy food, pedestrian-friendly roads, access to the seaside and green areas in the city.

Of course, it is just as fun to lean on the green or golden piggy and ask your friend to take a photo. Especially if you already have a photo with the sheep from the Dutch pavilion, the garden gnome of the German pavilion or the Little Mermaid of the Danish pavilion. The pigs offer a fun break, which nonetheless makes people think without having to say anything about Estonia as a country in the 21st century.

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LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Ambassador Toomas Tiivel, Comissioner General of Estonia for World EXPO 2010, addressing the participants of the tourism seminar this May.

Estonian pavilion is known to many Chinese visitors as the piggy house.

WHAT TO SEE AND WHERE TO GO? Exhibitions 23 June - Event dedicated to the anniversary of the Estonian monetary reform in 1992.

23 June - 6 July: Exhibition of the Estonian Bank “Estonian Paper Money and Estonian Coins” 8-26 July: Exhibition of the Estonian Fashion Designers’ Association “To Be Estonian” 28 July-20 August: Exhibition of Helje Eelma’s computer graphics 23 August-7 October 7: Estonian jewellery art exhibition “Spatial Castle” 8-16 October: Exhibition of Estonian architects and designers “Astonishing Estonia” 17-31 October: Exhibition of Estonian nature photographs

Concerts at European Square: 4 June-9 July European Square: Estonian folk dance group “Päkad Paidest” 21 July Group Level Square 5: Turba Children’s Choir & ETV Toddler’s Choir 22 July European Square: Mixed Choir of the Capital of Culture 2011 6 and 9 July European Square: Concert of “Estonian Strings” 17 October Concert of the Estonian Philharmonic Chamber Choir 18 October EXPO Centre Atrium: Estonian National Day concert 18 October Presentation of the anthology of Estonian Fairy Tales in Chinese For further information see www.savecity.org The second major goal of the Estonian exhibit, which has a budget of 60

contract ‘Approved Destination Status (ADS)’ was signed. Chinese tour-

million kroons, is, through participation at forums and seminars, to demon-

ists travelling out of the country is an explosively developing branch of the

strate the national will to cooperate with the Chinese government and to

economy. According to estimates by the World Tourism Organisation, China

develop relations between the two countries.

is one of the largest and fastest growing tourism countries in the world.

Whereas, according to the statistics of the Chinese tourism board, Chinese

‘About twenty thousand visitors come to the Estonian pavilion every day,’

people made 48.6 million foreign trips in 2009, this figure is set to rise to

says the Commissioner General of Estonia for World Expo 2010, Ambassa-

100 million Chinese visits in 2020. Only 4,000 Chinese tourists come to

dor Toomas Tiivel. ‘That is just about the capacity of the pavilion. To visitors,

Estonia annually. It is evident that Aishanja (as Estonia is called in Chinese)

we introduce Estonia in the most general terms. But should someone be

is an unknown country for the Chinese. The Estonian tourism companies

more interested in Estonian economic system, study opportunities, business

dream of increasing this number by 50%. It is not an easy task. Coming from

environment or culture, they will find another room showing documentary

a country which is twice as large as the entire European Union, a Chinese

films in another part of the pavilion, which enables them to concentrate in a

tourist will want to see as many Old World countries as possible during a

calm environment.’ Things get even more serious in the restricted area of the

two-week holiday. Usually they pack eight countries into a 12-day trip.

pavilion, where seminars, meetings and introductory evenings for specialists

‘Those tourists who come to Estonia from China today visit Estonia together

take place. In the conference room of the pavilion, companies and universi-

with other European countries. A Chinese tourist will not come to Europe

ties can work together with their partners and customers.

exclusively because of Estonia. This is something we still need to work on,’ says Tarmo Mutso, the Director of the Tourism Development Centre in En-

‘Should just two per cent of the Chinese people visiting our pavilion (it is esti-

terprise Estonia.

mated that 95% of EXPO visitors are Chinese) discover something memorable about Estonia and start to think about travelling there, we have fulfilled

It is the task of the developers of Estonian tourism to bring out what is

our goal,’ says Tiivel. ‘But one significant visitor whose word is valuable could

unique to Estonia. This was done during the tourism seminar which took

turn out to be more important than twenty thousand ordinary tourists.’

place in Shanghai from 26-28 May.

The Chinese tourist in Estonia

‘We may be competitors in the national market but we have to work together in order to bring tourists to Estonia,’ says the Director of the Nordic

For companies working in tourism, China is an attractive market. Europe

Hotels Forum, Felix Mägus.

opened its doors to Chinese tourists relatively recently, in 2004, when the

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The Estonian tourism developers’ delegation at EXPO included (from left) Aivar Siim (Elujõud OÜ), Feliks Mägus (OÜ Nordic Hotels), Killu Maidla (Reval Hotel Management OÜ), Külli Karing (Via Hansa Eesti AS), Tarmo Mutso (Tourism Development Centre of EE), Rauno Stüff (Olympic Casino Eesti AS) and Egon Elstein (Strand Spaa- ja Konverentsihotell).

An NGO called Expoturism was created especially for Shanghai and it is com-

There were presentations on the historical sights in Estonia and the climate,

prised of thirteen of the most trustworthy tourism companies in Estonia.

slide shows about the country, DVDs and booklets. Also, typical Kalev choco-

They include the tourism service companies Baltic Tours, Estonian Holidays,

late and Vana Tallinn liquor were offered to visitors.

Estravel, Kaleva Travel, Via Hansa and Wris, the accommodation companies the Nordic Forum Hotel, the Reval Hotels, the Hotell Saaremaa, the Spa and

Those were the first careful steps. The modest Chinese people did not rush

Konverentsihotell Strand, and the tourism management companies Enter-

to sign any contracts. For the Chinese, time is the foundation on which trust

prise Estonia Tourism Development Centre, and the Tallinn Enterprise Board,

is built. The time invested in long-term relations is undoubtedly worth it.

as well as the Estonian Hotel and Tourism School (EHTE).

‘Our work needs to be consistent,’ says Tarmo Mutso. At the end of the year, The series of workshops, lasting over three days, was a serious undertaking.

our tourism representatives will make another trip to China to organise a

The introduction of Estonia had to go back to the basics – what Estonia is,

similar event in Bejing. ‘The Estonian entrepreneurs believe in the Chinese

location, climate, neighbours, and history – everything was of interest to the

market,’ confirms Tarmo Mutso. The first specific requests have already ar-

Chinese.

rived. Enterprise Estonia has already contracted for the development of a

The number of tourists who travel outside China seeking special experiences

Chinese language full version of the tourism website visitestonia.com.

is growing every day. Such opportunities were showcased to Chinese tourism developers by the tourism farm Elujõud, based in Viljandi County, and

‘Talinn’ – city of spires

Olympic Casino, which represents the other end of relaxation opportunities available.

What kind of positive surprises are promised to tourists with this Estonian advertising slogan? What would make a Chinese tourist spend more than

62

One hundred and ten Chinese tourism entrepreneurs and media representa-

just a couple of hours off a cruise ship in Estonia? The tourism entrepreneurs

tives participated in the seminar.

were carefully studying the reactions and questions of the Chinese guests.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Head Chef: Tony Sal-al-Saller

Yes, we do have a liberal economic environment. e-Estonia makes it possible

Student exchange is a special branch of tourism. Young studious Chinese

to have fast and flexible relations with public bodies. Our composers Arvo

people can be found in each university in Tallinn; more and more Estonian

Pärt and Erkki-Sven Tüür belong to the elite of contemporary music, and the

students also make it to Chinese universities each year.

location of Estonia as a transit country is promising. Those are important background facts for businessmen, but for an ordinary tourist it is completely

The old Estonian saying about overcomplicated things – ‘it is Chinese to me’

second-rate information. Our tourism specialists had to answer questions

– has outlived its time. Everyday Chinese language is quite easy to learn –

about whether it is possible to play golf or to go sailing in Estonia, and

this is confirmed by the language skills of the Estonian pavilion guides. More

people were pleasantly surprised to find out that we have spa-hotels where

and more young people understand that learning Chinese is an investment

one can step directly into the sea from one’s hotel room. Of course, the Old

in the future and there are more Estonian students going to China every day.

Town of Tallinn is the number one attraction, with its medieval Hanseatic cul-

The competition for the Shanghai pavilion guides was five people per place.

ture, the bastions-museums and underground passages always having been

More and more interpreters, logistics personnel and trade representatives

a magnet. As an interesting coincidence, the Chinese name for our capital

are needed. The contact-making seminars proved clearly that the work of

– ‘Talin’ - means the city of spires. We have used the same slogan ourselves

interpreters is irreplaceable.

in introducing our city for decades, if not for centuries, because the city wall which was built in the 16th century to defend Tallinn from enemies, and

Young Chinese people are no less interested in the Estonian language and cul-

which was the greatest defence structure in Northern Europe, used to have

ture. Every day there was some young Chinese person who visited the pavilion

46 spires, of which 26 remain.

to enquire about studying opportunities in Estonia. The EXPO pavilion video room, where films about this topic were screened, was always packed with

The Chinese change of the year - spring holidays - is celebrated in many

people. Those were people who did not just come here out of the desire to

European capitals. In Tallinn, too, in recent years much attention has been

get a stamp in their passports, but also out of genuine interest in our country.

paid to the change of the Chinese astrological calendar. There are quite a few Chinese people working and studying in Tallinn, and the magnificent

Tourism businesses also had their secret weapon with them – the young

celebrations of spring that take place in Kadriorg Park and in the Rotermann

and rising pop star Lenna Kuurmaa, with her band. Everyone knows her in

Quarter help to alleviate their homesickness. When people know that Chi-

Estonia, but to perform in front of an audience that knows absolutely noth-

nese customs and traditions are not totally alien here, they have an easier

ing about you is a different challenge. Lenna won the hearts of the locals at

time in making the decision to travel to Estonia.

once. For three days, our superstar performed for a full pavilion of Chinese people at the end of each seminar day. The rock concert and the karaoke

‘The Dragon Song’ and ‘My Chinese Heart’ are being sung in unison on the

blended together into one festive and very Estonian song festival.

other side of the wall. But tourism companies need more in-depth explanations. We have medieval defence fortresses, unspoilt nature and everyone can go pick blueberries in the woods in August – the latter fact truly amazed the Chinese students studying in Estonia. Blueberries – a delicacy in China – are readily available here in the forest; just take a wicker basket and walk through the silence of the forest to pick your berries!

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HOW TO GET TO ESTONIA Fastest way to reach Estonia is via Helsinki or Stockholm Flights between China and Europe: •

Finnair Beijing/Shanghai/Hong Kong – Helsinki

•

SAS Beijing – Copenhagen

•

Aeroflot Beijng/Shanghai/Hong Kong – Moscow

•

Lufthansa Beijing/Shanghai/Nanjing/Guangzhou – Berlin

•

Air China Beijing-Stockholm/Frankfurt/ Moscow /Paris/

Holidays in Estonia

Munich/London, Shanghai-London/ Frankfurt/Munich/ Moscow/Paris •

KLM Royal Dutch Airlines Beijing- Amsterdam/ Brussels, Chengdu-Amsterdam

Estonian Air: Stockholm, Oslo, Copenhagen, London, Berlin, Barcelona, Milano, Moscow, Paris etc

www.estonian-air.com

Transportation via Scandinavia By sea: • Tallink-Silja www.tallink.com

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Helsinki-Tallinn, 7 times a day, 2 hours

Stockholm-Tallinn, daily overnight connection

•

Viking Line www.vikingline.ee

Helsinki-Tallinn, 2 times a day, 2.5 hours

•

Eckerö Line www.eckeroline.ee

Helsinki-Tallinn, 2 times a day, 3 hours

•

Linda Line www.lindaline.fi

from April to October

Helsinki-Tallinn, 7-8 times a day, 1.5 hours

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

There are several ways to spend a holiday in Estonia depending on your needs and choices. Have a look on different possibilities on offer.

Nature holiday in Estonia Estonian landscapes are surprisingly diverse. Empty beaches, deep forests, crystal clear lakes and rivers, enchanting swamps and rich flora and fauna are just some of the treasures awaiting your visit.

Estonia is almost fifty per cent forest, mostly pine, and many people choose to take advantage of the free state-run camp-sites, hiking trails, enchanting swamps, crystal clear lakes and rivers that populate our national parks and nature reserves.

Others prefer the coastal attractions; it’s easy to see why: forest-edged deserted beaches, clear night skies, limestone cliffs, waterfalls and the sandybottomed Baltic Sea. Yet, perhaps it will be the meteor craters, juniper bushes and seals on one of Estonia’s 1500+ islands that grab your attention.

Wherever you go, you are likely to encounter rich flora and fauna, and if you are really lucky you may spot lynx, flying squirrels, bears, wolves or the many species of rare orchids growing wild – not to mention the hundreds of species of birds that stop over in Estonia on their yearly migrations.

In summer, there is an added bonus, the white nights. Estonia’s long summer days mean you can enjoy the outdoors late into the night while the rest of Europe is in darkness.

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Wellness spa holidays in Estonia Estonia has been a popular spa and wellness holiday destination since 1820, when the therapeutic benefits of mud from different Estonian Spa regions were discovered.

Seaside resorts and inland spas offer a wide range of relaxation, recreation and medical procedures, such as mud wraps, chocolate massages and salt treatments.

The most popular spa and wellness resorts are located in P채rnu, Haapsalu, Kuressaare, Narva-J천esuu, Tallinn and V채rska, a town known for its mineral rich water.

All offer accommodation, catering, health care procedures, saunas, exercise, various water activities and, naturally, luxury spa treatments. Dentists, dermatologists and rehabilitation specialists are employed at many of the spas.

Spa and wellness resorts are a fun way to make the most of your holiday in Estonia: they treat not only the body but also the soul, and can be easily combined with city tours, active holidays, beach holidays and winter sports.

There is nothing quite as relaxing as taking a trip to the countryside, on foot, by bike or on skis, and having a hot sauna and full body massage, followed by a gourmet dinner.

Many couples fly over to Estonia for a romantic break in a luxury spa.

Try it yourself.

Taking a spa break is also fun for families with children: aqua parks or swimming pools are present in most spas and some have playgrounds and child daycare facilities too. There are special fun procedures available for kids: special pearl bubble baths, fun massages, more adventurous salt and cold chambers, and more. Ask when you book.

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Active holidays in Estonia Estonia has plenty to offer for anyone interested in active holidays: nature and outdoors, sports and adventures, summer fun and winter activities.

Whether you are just looking for leisurely pursuits or are in search of a huge adrenaline rush, Estonia has something for you. Our climate gives you a chance to enjoy all four seasons at their best, from sunbathing to winter sports.

Summer is the best time to enjoy water sports, and our public white sand beaches, with playgrounds and recreational areas, are ideal for families travelling with children. Some of them offer windsurfing and Jet Ski rental, too, but a little bit of planning may be required, as the use of personal water craft is not allowed everywhere. More experienced water sports enthusiasts can try diving into historic wrecks or sailing.

The mainland and coast of Estonia are covered with beautiful pine forests, and our national parks are easily accessible. Enjoy a day in nature: go hiking and camping with your family or discover our cultural diversity on a cycling trip.

Nature is most colourful during autumn and spring: as water levels rise, it is the best time to enjoy canoeing down the rivers in national parks and wild forests. Take your GPS with you and combine it with the adventure of geo-caching: there are around 1,000 treasures hidden in Estonia.

Many of our tourist farms and holiday houses arrange horseback riding during summer and sledging for winter: stop by the local Tourist Information Centres for tips and suggestions.

During winter peak time, in January and February, there is plenty of snow. Dress up warm and enjoy skiing, snowboarding and ice-skating.

Adventurous and experienced athletes can try rock- and ice climbing and skydiving, or plan a day out with friends and family in adventure parks, where everyone can test their endurance and climbing skills, and separate tracks are offered for kids, too.

Karting and paint-ball can be enjoyed throughout the year, as there are both indoor and outdoor options available.

If you are travelling with small children, be sure to read our tips and safety suggestions for public playgrounds.

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Holiday in Estonian cities Estonian cities offer a surprising mix of architectural splendour, cultural diversity, exciting night-life and all the modern conveniences you would expect in a European country.

The compact nature of Estonia and its cities, even the medieval city of Tallinn, allow you to see lots in a short time.

Tallinn attracts lovers of medieval architecture, and yet beyond the castle walls is a thriving modern city, full of wireless Internet access and home to luxurious restaurants, hotels and lively night-time activities that can compete with anywhere in Europe.

An increasing number of people come to enjoy the cultural attractions: opera, dance, music, art exhibitions and museums – especially the Kumu Art Museum (winner of the European Museum of the Year Award in 2008).

And if that’s not enough, then there’s the shopping: modern shopping centres

Tartu, the university town, is fresh and youthful and a gate-

exist, of course, but there’s also a lot of fun to be had hunting out bargains and

way to southern Estonia. Rich in museums and full of history

exclusive gifts (for you or your friends and family back home) in the small bou-

and fun, Tartu is growing in popularity every year.

tiques and specialist shops that permeate the Old Towns in all our cities.

Tallinn’s captivating, and UNESCO-protected, medieval Old Town is the number one tourist attraction, but Estonia’s cities have so much more to offer: Pärnu, the summer capital and famous beach resort, is buzzing in the summer.

Plus, with Kihnu Island and Soomaa National Park just a short distance away, it’s no wonder that many people claim Pärnu is the place to be!

Whether you are looking for luxury & sophistication, simplicity & relaxation, or just fun, fun, fun, take a look below at what’s on offer in Estonian cities now.

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Cultural holiday in Estonia

Visit the Old Believers who shun tea, coffee, electricity and live an ancient lifestyle.

Witness the Swedish influences and culture along the coast and on Estonia’s islands.

The contrast of seeing medieval castles and other ancient buildings sitting happily alongside the latest modern wood and glass buildings will challenge your preconceptions of architecture.

Estonians are culturally passionate, and there are plenty of exciting events, exhibitions, concerts, theatre performances and festivals held all year round.

If you love culture and are looking for something different, then look no further.

Estonia’s rich cultural heritage is full of surprising contrasts, from the exotic to the heroic, from the romantic to the modern.

Our ancient Nordic heart and warm, ageless soul have produced a diverse and complex range of cultural treasures.

Ethnic minorities, with their ancient folk traditions, songs and costumes, still thrive and will make you want to pull out your camera. You could: It’s true that many people come to see the UNESCO-protected, medieval Tallinn Old Meet the Seto people and hear their enchanting Leelo choirs.

Town, but look beyond the capital into the countryside and islands and you will find intriguing evidence of how our culture adapted to the occupations and invasions of Germans, Russians and Swedes over the past centuries.

There’s nothing predictable about Estonian culture, yet it’s strangely warm and welcoming and quickly becoming progressive and exciting, as demonstrated by the ways Estonians have embraced the Internet and mobile phone to improve their lives in every way.

Self-guided tours in Estonia Use our ideas for self-guided tours to discover some of Estonia’s rich cultural heritage & history, influenced largely by Estonia’s three main occupiers: Sweden, Germany and Russia. Hints on www.visitestonia.com.

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Time travel begins in Tallinn city centre Text: Oliver Õunmaa Photos: Albert Truuväärt

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Is time travel possible? Yes, because in the city centre of Tallinn one can walk into the past through the defence tunnels of the Baroque era, or take a train ride into the year 2219.

Silvery glittering columns stand next to the tunnel wall. The number on each column shows in which year we are, according to one or another culture. Thus we can become familiar with the universal, Chinese, ancient Indian and our own Gregorian calendars.

When the limestone passage splits in two, the right turn

On the edge of the main square — Vabaduse väljak (Freedom Square – ed.)

is a cool 8 degrees. This is immediately felt when Sirkel opens the mysteri-

— in Tallinn, behind the Freedom Monument dedicated to the Estonian War

ous iron door, which looks like a restricted access to a research laboratory.

of Independence, there is a hill covered in grass with leafy trees growing on

Behind the door is a corridor, which Enna calls the tunnel of time. It is like

it. This highly valued place for relaxation in the very centre of the capital is

something out of science fiction, like an entrance to a spaceship from an

actually the Ingermanland Bastion, a defence construction which for centu-

episode of Star Trek. Silvery glittering columns stand next to the tunnel wall.

ries protected the residents of the city from enemies. Today the bastion is

‘Those symbolise the recording of time by different cultures,’ explains Enna.

called Harjumägi, and one would never guess that inside there are passages

‘The number on each column shows in which year we are, according to

through which former defenders of the town could safely move from one

one or another culture.’ Thus you can become familiar with the universal,

position to another. The passages have been recently renovated and now

Chinese, ancient Indian and our own Gregorian calendars.

takes you on a tour of the future of Tallinn.

form a part of a City Museum exhibit open to visitors to take a stroll through time into the past and the future of Tallinn.

Let the underground tour begin

The tunnel of time ends in a kind of viewing platform. An old city gate is visible over the glass barrier. Nobody had any idea that this existed until the bastion passages were renovated.

The entry to the passages is located in the old cannon tower Kiek in de Kök.

‘In the 15th century, it was used to transport necessary goods to Toompea,’

The museum has six guides who offer tours in Estonian, Russian, English,

says Sirkel. A staircase with steep steps, cut in limestone more than three

Finnish, Greek and Turkish. During my visit, our guide was Enna Sirkel. After

hundred years ago, takes us down into the depths, until we suddenly find

a humorous short animated film about the mythical old man in Ülemiste

ourselves inside the tunnels.

Lake who is impatiently waiting for the time when he can drown the city, Sirkel asks the more lightly clad visitors to wrap themselves in warm blankets.

Even on a hot summer day of 25 degrees, the temperature in the tunnels

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In the 17th century, Estonia was part of Sweden. Thanks to the three bastions built at that time, we can admire the skilled Swedish handicrafts back in those days.

The journey into the past

The passage is divided into several rooms. In the first one, information boards give an overview of how the passages were restored. Just ten years

Inside the bastion tunnel, we are greeted by the developer of these pas-

ago, many of them were still under water or full of rubbish. ‘The idea of

sageways – a wax figure of the Swedish fortification master Erik Jönsson

restoring the tunnels and opening them to the public was born in 2001 and

Dahlbergh. Our guide has pressed a secret button, and the wax figure intro-

since then renovation has taken place,’ explains Sirkel. ‘About 800 cubic

duces himself in Swedish.

metres of soil and rocks were removed from the tunnels. Today there is a modern electric, ventilation and fire extinguishing system.’

‘In the 17th century, Estonia was part of Sweden,’ explains Sirkel. ‘In 1686, Dahlbergh created a master plan which foresaw the building of eleven

In the next room, we are greeted by coughing coming from a sound sys-

bastions in Tallinn. The work lasted for twenty years, but only three of the

tem. In the corner of the room, a dummy representing a homeless bum is

bastions were completed. Nonetheless, we have the opportunity to admire

stretched out on an old mattress. ‘From the early 1990s until the passages

the Bastion passageways, which are a great example of the skilled Swedish

were restored, there were homeless people living here, about thirty in total,’

handicrafts back in those days.

says Sirkel. ‘The homeless people had split the tunnels which were not under water into apartments and the competition to get a place here was fierce.’

Next to Dahlberg, the limestone passage splits in two. The left turn takes you on a time journey into the distant past of the bastions and the right turn takes you on a tour of the future of Tallinn. Our guide guides us into the past. At first, the passage is relatively wide and has a high arched ceiling. A sense of mysticism is added by lamps fixed onto strangely bent pipes, which cast gentle multicoloured beams into the dimness.

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At the end of the civil defence shelter, there is a female mannequin sitting clad in the uniform of a Soviet Lieutenant.

Journey through time.

Tallinn 1219-2219 Come and discover the tower and the tunnels!

• The museum is open from Tuesday to Sunday,

from 10.30 to 18.00. Last admission at 17.30.

• The Bastion Tunnels can be visited only as part of a guided Three rooms are re-creations of civilian

tour. Group size is limited to 20 persons. Guided tours of the

defence shelters which were in the passages during the Soviet era.

Bastion Tunnels should be booked in advance, by calling

(+372) 644 6686, by e-mail: kok@linnamuuseum.ee

or in person at the museum desk.

• Kiek in de Kök As we move on, our guide suddenly breaks into a dance accompanied by

edly. ‘At the end of the Soviet era, especially in the early 1980s, there were

Adults 70 EEK Concessions 40 EEK (pupils, students, seniors,

punk music. ‘Do you recognise the music,’ she asks the tour group animat

ISIC and ITIC card holders) Family ticket (2 adults + up to 4 children under 18) 140 EEK

more and more punks on the streets of Tallinn. As this Western protest movement of young people was not really liked by the authorities, the punks

Free admission for pre-school children

often had to flee from the militia. The bastion passages offered great cover

Free admission every last Friday of the month.

where they could hide.’ Hence, the walls of one of the rooms are covered in anarchistic slogans and there is a figure of a young man with a punk hairdo.

• Bastion Tunnels

Adults 90 EEK

The next three rooms are re-creations of civilian defence shelters which were

Concessions 50 EEK

here in the passages during the Soviet era. It was a camping site which

(pupils, students, seniors, ISIC and ITIC card holders)

nobody knew much about. There was an electric system, phone lines and

Family ticket (2 adults + up to 4 children under 18) 180 EEK Free admission for pre-school children

ventilation. Such shelters could be found all over Estonia during the Cold War, and citizens were allocated places according to their places of residence

• Joint ticket (Kiek in de Kök and Bastion Tunnels) 130 EEK.

or work. We also see the shelter where the people of Tallinn hid during the

Free admission for pre-school children, and with Tallinn Card.

1944 Soviet bombing raids.

• The new exhibition of Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels When we move out of the shelter, a hazy white shape of a human being

was designed by Leonardo Meigas and Ivari Männi. The cost

appears on the wall of the darker side of the tunnel. ‘This is our ghost!’

of the exhibit was 28.4 million kroons, 21 million of which was

announces Sirkel. In 2004, some workmen saw a white lady here and appar-

provided by Enterprise Estonia, and 7.4 million by the City of

ently she is still here.’

Tallinn.

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I LIFE IN ESTONIA

73

I TOURISM

The Bastion tunnels have their own ghost who

In a spacious room, depicting the middle of the 18th century, there is

appears on the wall of the darker side of the tunnel.

the Russian monk Arseni half buried in the wall.

Of course, the ghost does not really show herself publicly to tourists. A look

protect the city from the Russians, and it surrendered without a shot having

up confirms that there is a projector guilty of creating this little fright.

been fired.’

Next, our journey takes us to the 19th century, when Estonia was part of the

Our guide demonstrates a strange device next to the passage wall, which

Russian empire. ‘Back then, the Bastion lost its military value; the city built

consists of a water bowl and two candles. It turns out that the bowl of water

a park on top and called the bastion a hill,’ says Sirkel. ‘As time passed,

was needed to find out if an enemy had started to dig their own tunnel to

the names of the bastions from the Swedish era were forgotten – those

get into the Bastion. When the water in the bowl started to vibrate, the

had been given to the bastions according to Swedish counties: Skåne (or

enemy was much easier to discover. The candles were just there to provide

Swedish) and Ingermanland.’ In the 19th century, the bastions became mythi-

light. Simple and brilliant!

cal places for people. ‘Stories were told about the Old Town being full of underground tunnels, some so long that they led five kilometres away to

Suddenly, we have reached the end of our trip to the past – 363 years ago

Pirita. Such a long passage, however, has not been found. Apparently, it is

to the time of the building of the soil fortifications. There is another passage

merely a legend.’

leading onwards from this room, but access is blocked by a large glass wall.

Through the glass we can see the passages which have not been restored

Next, we come into a spacious room depicting the middle of the 18th cen-

yet, which up to quite recently were under knee-high water. These passages

tury. There is a monk half buried in the wall, and he is guarded by a Russian

will soon be restored and old ashlars exhibited.

soldier wearing an appropriate uniform. ‘The Russian monk Arseni told off the Empress Catherine II for her bad habits and because of this he was sent

The work in the tunnels has not been finished yet. These passages will soon be restored

to Tallinn and imprisoned for life,’ says Sirkel.

and old ashlars exhibited.

Next to the monk, there is another staircase leading even deeper, with 18th century Swedish soldiers guarding the sides. When our tour group starts descending the staircase, we hear a roll of drums and a march starts to play. ‘Welcome to the Swedish era!’ exclaims our guide, and explains how the Swedish era became the Russian era. ‘During the Great Northern War, fought between Sweden and Russia, Tallinn was hit by the plague and hunger. Hence, Tallinn no longer had enough citizens and Swedish soldiers to

74

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Each carriage is just large enough to accommodate a seat for three people next to one another.

Full speed into the future Our journey into the past is complete and we are speeding into the future – into 2219. We are taken there by train. Tallinn as a small town has never had an underground train, but when the Bastion Tunnels were opened, it was finally built. The train which speeds along the tunnel was created especially for the Bastion and everything, from the parts to the implementation, was made in Tallinn. ‘We thought that the journey into the future should be made on a time machine, and what else suits a tunnel better than a train,’ says Toomas Abiline, Director of the Kiek in de Kök and the Bastion Tunnels Museum.

We take our seats in the cylinder-like carriages of this train, with its futuristic design. There is a buzz and a big shutter on the carriage door closes in front of our faces. Attached to it is a screen which starts to show a humorous film.

It explains to the visitors how cities were born, and how people in the past envisaged future cities.

After the film has been playing for a minute, the train starts to move almost imperceptibly. The passage where the train runs is not very long, just

By the walls, there is an exhibition stand showing items from contemporary

over seventy metres but, as it moves just 10 metres a minute, the trip is

man. The signs displayed next to them have been written by a future archae-

long enough to watch the whole film. The eight minute train ride takes

ologist, who has guessed what items they might be. For example, the sign

the guests to the guard room from the Swedish era, where little stalactites

next to a mobile phone says that people in our days were such music lovers

hang from the arched ceiling. This is where the room of the future has been

that they took their own music machines even to the theatre, so that their

created. There, on a large screen, you can watch a film which ponders what

sound would be louder than other sounds. The sign next to a cigarette pack-

Tallinn may look like in the year 2219. For example, the film shows the Opera

age explains that these poison sticks were probably used by a sect practising

Theatre Estonia, which has become a supermarket, a beach park, which has

slow suicide methods. Next to a condom, we find the explanation that men

become a tropical spa resort, and the Old Town, which has been filled with

back in our time were so out of control that their passion had to be control-

skyscrapers.

led with this item.

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I TOURISM

Kiek in de Kök When the train takes us back to Dahlberg at a slightly faster pace, our time journey, which has lasted for an hour and a half, has come to an end. Whoever wishes to do so, after climbing the steep staircase, can take another round through the cannon tower Kiek in die Kök.

The name of the tower means ’Peep into the kitchen’ in lower Saxonian.

Why? Because when the tower was built, it was so much higher than other buildings in the town that guards could easily peek at women busy over kitchen stoves.

In the tower, which was renovated together with the passages, there is a permanent exhibition on the historical battles linked to Tallinn and the weapons which were used. The two cannons on display have awe-inspiring names: Lion and Bitter Death. Visitors can hold the smaller weapons in their hands to feel how heavy a three-centuries-old musket was. The large model also shows the city wall towers and gates of Tallinn which are no longer in existence today.

On the large screen, visitors get an overview of past events in Tallinn by the chronicler Balthasar Russow, who lived in Tallinn, and by the mythical city guard Vana Toomas (Old Thomas), who guards the town from the top of the Town Hall spire.

There are also different temporary exhibitions in the tower. For example, until the end of September, you can see old paintings and graphic art about Tallinn. Among other works, there is the oldest painting depicting Tallinn on display: Lambert Glandorp’s ‘Battle Scene with Christ’, from 1561.

Those guests with great stamina, who have managed to climb all the winding staircases of the narrow tower to the sixth floor, can relax in the elegant cafeteria, which offers a splendid view of the Old Town.

76

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

Estonia in brief Official name:

Republic of Estonia

State order:

Parliamentary republic

Area:

45,227 sq kilometres (17,500 sq miles)

Population:

1,356,045 inhabitants: 69% Estonians, 26% Russians and 5% others

Population density:

35 people per square kilometre. Over 70% reside in urban centres

Capital:

Tallinn with 405,562 inhabitants (01.09.2009)

Other major towns:

Tartu (101,190), Narva (67,752), Kohtla-Järve (46,765), Pärnu (44,781)

Administrative divisions: 15 counties (maakond), divided further into 202 rural municipalities (vald) Official language:

Estonian, a member of the Finno-Ugric group. Russian is widely spoken.

Many Estonians speak English, German, Finnish or Swedish

Alphabet:

Latin

Religion:

Predominantly Protestant (Lutheran)

Currency:

Estonian kroon (EEK), divided into 100 sents; 1 euro = 15.65 EEK

Driving:

Right hand side of the road. Speed limits in town 50 km/h, out of town 90 km/h. International driving licence required

Weights and measures: Metric system Electricity:

220 volts, 50 Hz

National flag:

Blue-black-and-white

National holiday:

24 February (Independence Day)

National anthem:

Mu isamaa, mu õnn ja rõõm (My fatherland, my joy and happiness)

National flower:

Cornflower (Centaurea cyanus)

National bird:

Chimney swallow (Hirundo rustica)

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

77

I TOURISM

Practical information for visitors

Korea, USA, Uruguay, Venezuela. The

Regional airports are located in Kuressaare (Saare-

required travel document for entry is a

maa), Kärdla (Hiiumaa), Pärnu and Tartu; these

valid passport.

provide no regular international connections.

Citizens of countries not mentioned

By ship: With over 6 million passengers annually,

above require a visa to enter Estonia.

the Port of Tallinn is undoubtedly Estonia’s main

Visitors arriving in Estonia with visa

gateway. Large passenger ferries arrive from and

must have national passports valid at

depart for Helsinki and Stockholm regularly. The

least 3 months after their planned de-

85-km Tallinn-Helsinki line is served by ferries that

parture from Estonia.

make the journey in 2 hours; hydrofoils and catamarans make the trip on 1.5 hours and operate

Children aged 7 to 15 years must have their own

Between April to November or December, de-

passport when travelling to Estonia or, if they are

pending on weather conditions. Travellers should

registered in their parent’s passport, must have

note that different ferry lines depart from differ-

their photo next to the name. Children under 7

ent terminals and harbours. The City Port with its

years need not have a photo if they are regis-

four terminals is a 10-15 minute walk from Tallinn

tered in their parents’ passports. Persons above

Old Town; the Paldiski-Kapellskär line uses the

15 years must have a separate travel document

Port of Paldiski, about 50 km from Tallinn.

with photo.

By car: Border checkpoints greet travellers enter-

For more travel details, please consult the sources

For detailed information on visa requirements

ing or departing the country by way of the Esto-

and entry rules, please consult the Ministry of

nian-Latvian border points at Ikla (the Tallinn-Riga

Foreign Affairs website at www.vm.ee/eng.

highway) and Valga, as well as on the Estonian-

Arrival

Russian border at Narva (the Tallinn-St. Petersburg

below: www.visitestonia.com (Estonian Tourist Board), www.riik.ee/en/.

Tourist information centres are located in all larger towns.

The Tallinn Tourist Information Centre in the Old Town is located at 4 Kullassepa Street - no more than 10 steps from the Town Hall Square (ph.: + 372 645 7777, e-mail: turismiinfo@tallinnlv. ee). The Tallinn Tourist Information Centre in Viru Keskus (ph: + 372 610 1557, 610 1558), open every day 9 am - 9 pm, is located in the centre of the city. A wide selection of maps, brochures and publications in several languages (largest selection in English) can be found at local bookstores and tourist information centres.

highway), Luhamaa, Koidula and Murati. On the Estonian-Russian border, all traffic is subject to

Visa

By plane: Recently renovated, the Tallinn Lennart

border formalities both when entering and leav-

Meri Airport, just 3 km from the city centre, is wel-

ing Estonia.

coming, modern and user-friendly. Among other As of 21 December 2007, Estonia is a part of the

amenities, travellers have access to a free WiFi

By bus: Not only is travel by bus the fastest and

Schengen visa area.

area in the transit zone. The airport’s 24-hour cus-

most convenient mode of international public

Nationals of EU and EEA member states are free

tomer service telephone is +372 6058 888.

transportation in the Baltic states, it also offers ex-

to enter Estonia. The required travel document for entry is a national ID card or passport.

78

cellent value for your money. Regular connections The easiest way to get to town is by taxi. A ten-

service all major cities in the Baltic countries and

minute ride to the city centre costs approximately

St. Petersburg. Eurolines Lux Express offers com-

Nationals of the following countries do not need

60 Estonian kroons. A hotel transfer minibus

fortable Riga Airport transfers from Tallinn, Pärnu,

visa to enter Estonia, and can stay for up to 90

meets all incoming flights and takes visitors to

Klaipeda, Vilnius, Panevezys, and Šiauliai. Prices

days in any 6-month period: Andorra, Argentina,

downtown hotels for just 25 kroons (€1.60 or

start from €15.90. A useful tip: Regular passenger

Australia, Brazil, Brunei, Canada, Chile, Costa

$1.90). City bus #2 connects between the airport,

buses have priority at the border checkpoints, so

Rica, Croatia, El Salvador, Guatemala, Holy See,

the centre and the harbour. The bus schedule is

travel is smooth. For more information and time-

Honduras, Hong Kong, Israel, Japan, Macao, Ma-

posted at the bus stops in these places, and tick-

tables, please contact Eurolines at tel. +372 6800

laysia, Mexico, Monaco, New Zealand, Nicaragua,

ets can be purchased from the driver (15 kroons,

909 or visit their website at http://www.euro-

Panama, Paraguay, San Marino, Singapore, South

€0.95 or $1.16 per ride).

lines.ee/eng/index.html.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

By train: There are only one international over-

are almost always available even immediately be-

is no additional charge for ordering the taxi by

night train to Moscow. For further details see

fore departure (watch out for special events). For

phone, and it usually takes the cab just five to ten

www.gorail.ee

weekend travel or trips to more remote locations

minutes to arrive. All taxi drivers must give you a

with fewer connections, it is advisable to buy tick-

receipt (in Estonian, ask for “Kviitung, palun”).

ets in advance. The Tallinn Bus Terminal is located

Locals usually give the exact fare and no tip. As

at Lastekodu 46. The timetable is also available

in most major cities, some dishonest drivers at-

online at www.bussireisid.ee/index.php and

tempt to overcharge unsuspecting passengers. If

We suggest travellers consult with the Estonian

ticket information is available at telephone +372

in doubt, note the taxi company and license plate

Customs Board help desk (ph.: +372 880 0814 or

6800 900.

number.

port of alcoholic beverages from outside the EU is

Travelling by car

Public transportation: Tallinn has a public trans-

one litre for beverages over 22% alcohol content,

Travellers hoping to see more of the country

port network of buses, trams and trolley-buses.

and two litres for beverages up to 22%, and four

and the rural areas it would be best advised to

Other Estonian towns have buses. Schedules are

litres for wine. Import of tobacco and tobacco

travel by car. The roads are quite good and traffic

posted at bus stops. Tickets are available at news-

products from non-EU countries is limited to 40

is light. Crossing Estonia from north to south or

stands (the yellow and blue “R-kiosks”) and from

cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 50 g of

west to east by car takes approximately three to

the driver. A pre-purchased ticket (10 kroons,

tobacco products. Counterfeit goods, including

four hours. All major car rental agencies have of-

€0.83) must be validated upon boarding and

pirated CDs, video and audio tapes, are prohib-

fices in Tallinn. It is also possible to rent the car in

is valid for one ride. A pre-purchased one-hour

ited by law. A special export permit is required for

Estonia and drop it off at a rental agency in Latvia

ticket costs 15 kroons and two-hour ticket 20

specimens of plants and animals of endangered

or Lithuania, or vice versa. The speed limit in rural

kroons. Check the time schedule for Tallinn bus

species, protected species and hunting trophies

areas is 90 km/h and in cities 50 km/h. In some

lines for any bus stop at www.tallinn.ee/eng.

(please contact the Nature Conservation Depart-

areas the highway speed limit is increased dur-

ment, Ministry of the Environment for details).

ing the summer months. Headlights and seatbelts

Articles of cultural value produced in Estonia

(front and back) must be on at all times. Driving

more than 50 years ago also require special per-

under the influence of alcohol or other intoxicat-

mits (please contact the National Heritage Board).

ing substances is punishable by law.

Getting Around Estonia

Local transport

Customs www.customs.ee) for details. The limit on im-

Accommodations All major hotels in Tallinn have been newly built or completely renovation in recent years.

De-

Taxis: Taxis must clearly display their fares, driv-

spite annual additions to the number of hotels

er’s taxi service licenses, and a meter. The initial

and rooms, it can nonetheless be difficult to find

charge for entering a cab ranges from 20 to 45

a hotel room on short notice (particularly over

Public buses are the easiest, cheapest and most

kroons. Different taxi companies have different

the week-end). For the best selection, we urge

convenient solution for visiting Tartu, Pärnu or any

rates, but the average charge per kilometre is

visitors to Tallinn and the rest of Estonia to book

other of the larger towns. Buses from Tallinn to

7 kroons. In Tallinn, a short ride within the city

hotel rooms in advance. For more details, see the

Tartu depart every 15-30 minutes, to Pärnu every

centre usually costs around 50 kroons. A ride to

Estonian Tourist Board website at www.visitesto-

hour. On weekdays, seats to these destinations

the suburbs may cost about 100 kroons. There

nia.ee.

Inter-city public transportation

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

79

I TOURISM

Money

Internet zones around the country, many of them in rather unexpected places - beaches, Old Town squares, stadiums, and concert halls.

The Estonian kroon is pegged to the euro (1 euro=15.6466 kroons; 1 kroon=100 cents).

Emergencies

Most larger hotels, stores and restaurants accept Visa, MasterCard, Eurocard, Diner’s Club and

112 is the emergency number for ambulance,

American Express. However, it is advisable to carry

police and fire department. The police can also

some Estonian kroons with you.

be reached directly at 110. Emergency numbers can be dialled free of charge and without a

Traveller’s checks can be exchanged in most banks

phone card from any public telephone. Select

but are less likely to be accepted in shops. Eu-

pharmacies are open 24-hours-a-day in many

rocheque is the most widely accepted traveller’s

major towns. The one in Tallinn is located at 10

check, but American Express and Thomas Cook

Pärnu Road (opposite the Estonian Drama Thea-

are also accepted. Banks are plentiful and easy to

tre); the one in Tartu is located in the Town Hall

find in Tallinn. Most are open from 9:00 to 18:00

building (Town Hall Square).

on weekdays, while some offices are also open on Saturday mornings. All banks offer currency exchange services. Exchange offices can also be found in larger hotels, the airport, harbour, rail-

Food

road station and major shopping centres. ATMs are conveniently located around town; instructions are in English, Russian and Estonian.

Traditional Estonian cuisine consists of simple peasant food, such as cottage cheese, potatoes and bread, all of which are still important components of the local diet. The Estonian dark bread is the main staple missed by Estonians abroad. Typical Estonian dishes do not feature prominently on restaurant menus, and traditional home cooking is more likely to appear at small eateries in remote areas. Still, a few establishments have made Estonian specialities their niche; to sample Estonian cuisine, try the Kuldse Notsu Kõrts, Vanaema juures, Eesti Maja, Kaera-Jaan and Kolu Tavern (Open Air Museum) in Tallinn, and the highly rec-

National Holidays

ommended Lümanda söögimaja on the Island of Saaremaa.

Of meat dishes, pork is the favourite and most common in Estonia; Baltic herring is the most

Telephones and Internet

80

Estonians celebrate January 1 as New Year’s

common local fish.

Day, a rather slow and quiet day as people re-

meal is a pork steak with sauerkraut and pota-

cover from the festivities. Shops open late and

toes. Soups are also a mainstay in the local diet,

banks are closed. February 24, Independence

with tasty samplings ranging from broth with

Day, is celebrated with a parade of the Estonian

dumplings and meatballs to delectable vegetable

The country code of Estonia is 372. Dial 00 for

Defence Forces at Vabaduse väljak (Freedom

purees.

outbound international calls. Public payphones

Square). May 1 is a bank holiday, similar to Good

only accept prepaid phone cards, costing 50

Friday and May Day. June 23 is the biggest holi-

At local restaurants, appetizer prices start at ap-

and 100 EEK, which can be purchased at news-

day of the year as Estonians celebrate Midsum-

proximately 50 kroons and main courses start

stands. As with ATMs, phone instructions are of-

mer Eve and the Victory Day in commemoration

from about 100 kroons. A three-course restau-

fered in English, Russian and Estonian. The GSM

of the 1919 Battle of Võnnu, and June 24 is St.

rant meal with coffee will usually cost upwards

mobile phone system is available; please check

John’s Day (Midsummer). August 20 is the Day

of 250 kroons. A glass of house wine or beer

compatibility with your operator.

of Restoration of Independence (1991). Decem-

is usually 40-50 kroons. Cafeterias offer main

Public Internet access points have been set up all

ber 24 (Christmas Eve), December 25 (Christmas

course for 45-60 kroons and 100 kroons will buy

over Estonia. They are located in local libraries

Day) and December 26 (Boxing Day) are usually

a full meal. Pleased customers usually leave a tip

and post offices. There are over 100 free wireless

spent at home with families.

of 10% of the bill.

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

A typical, heavy Estonian

Drinks The main drinks in Estonia are beer, wine and

phenomenal sales, while Coke was not selling up

to local and resident DJs, clubs frequently present

to expectations. It was then that Coca-Cola de-

guest performers from London, the US and other

cided to broaden its horizons by buying one of

club hubs. For those looking for a more mellow

the local kali trademarks in order to make a profit

night on the town, Tallinn’s street are brimming

on the stubborn Estonians.

with pubs, vinoteks and bar-restaurants, many of

Entertainment

vodka. While many young city residents opt for beer or wine, the older generation and rural folk

The entertainment scene in Estonia is vibrant

tend to prefer vodka. In the 1930s Estonian vodka

year-round, providing visitors and locals alike

made it into the Guinness Book of Records as the

with a long list to choose from. Concerts,

strongest vodka in the world (96º). Local brands

festivals theatre, street raves, DJ competitions

of beer enjoy a very strong market position in Es-

– Estonia has it all. It is not by chance that both

tonia. The two main breweries are Saku and A.

Tallinn and Tartu have their own opera and bal-

Le Coq. Saku is Tallinn-based, and its corporate

let theatre. Tickets are an excellent value for

colour is navy blue while A.Le Coq is brewed in

the money; concert tickets start around 150

Tartu and its colour is red. There are also many

kroons, and best seats at the opera are yours

smaller breweries. A full list of Estonian beers is

for as little as 390 kroons. For more information

posted at www.BeerGuide.ee.

One glass of

on the concert schedule see www.concert.ee;

beer at bars or restaurants costs 30-60 kroons. A

the programme for the national opera is posted

which offer live music even on weekdays. Rather

bottle of beer sells at supermarkets for 10 kroons.

at www.opera.ee. Tickets can be bought at

take in a movie? Films in cinemas are shown in

the box offices or via ticket agencies located in

the original language with subtitles.

Spirits also include some traditional liqueurs. The

all larger supermarkets, or via Internet (www.

famous Vana Tallinn (Old Tallinn) has a 45º alco-

piletilevi.ee)

hol content, and is coincidentally made from 45

Shops

ingredients - the recipe is known only to a hand-

Even the most sceptical museum-goer is bound

ful of people. Indeed, the legendary 19th-century

to find something intriguing in Estonia’s large

Souvenir shops in Tallinn and most other tourist

kristallkümmel (caraway liqueur) has made its

selection of museums, which feature everything

locations are open seven days a week, 10:00-

long-awaited comeback.

from history, art, photography to toys, chocolate,

18:00 or 19:00. Big supermarkets and hyper-

musical instruments, even wax figures and many

markets are open seven days a week from 9:00-

Estonian wines, made from currants or other

other topics. Most museums are closed on Tues-

21:00 or 10:00-22:00. Department stores close

local berries, are rather sweet. Wine lovers usu-

days and many on Mondays as well. It is advisable

a few hours earlier on Sundays or, in smaller

ally prefer imported wine, of which there is an

to have cash on hand as many museums do not

towns, may be closed on Sundays. Smaller food

ever-increasing selection at stores and vinoteks.

accept credit cards.

shops may have shorter opening hours. Some

A very popular and refreshing non-alcoholic drink

24-hour shops can be found as well. Other

is kali, made of bread, malt, rye or oats flour

Tallinn is also bustling well into the night with

shops usually open at 9:00 or 10:00 and close at

and yeast; it has a characteristically dark brown

booming and blooming club scene. Clubs are

18:00 or 19:00; they often close early on Satur-

colour. It was with this drink that the Estonians

usually open and packed with energised vibes

days and are closed on Sundays. The majority of

forced the Coca-Cola company into submission,

from Thursday to Sunday, with Friday and Satur-

shops accept credit cards, with the exception of

or at least into a business deal. Kali was enjoying

day drawing the liveliest of crowds. In addition

smaller stores and stores in rural areas.

SUMMER 2010

I LIFE IN ESTONIA

81

I TOURISM

Crime

Estonians

Although common sense is advisable in all desti-

Estonians are typical Nordic people – they are

nations, Estonia gives no particular reason to be

reserved, not too talkative and speak rather mo-

excessively worried. Do not walk the unlit and

notonously, with very little intonation. All this

abandoned areas alone at night. Do not leave

may give one the impression of coldness border-

bags or items of value in the car, as not to tempt

ing on rudeness. But rest assured, this is not the

car thieves or robbers. Pickpockets may oper-

case, and the speaker may actually be extremely

ate at crowded tourist destinations in Tallinn, so

well-meaning, even excited. There are several

make sure your wallet and documents are stored

well-known Estonian sayings, such as “Think first,

safely.

then speak”, “Weigh everything carefully nine times before making a move”, and “Talking is sil-

Souvenirs Souvenir and shopping preferences vary hugely but there are certain souvenir gifts that have gladdened many a heart.

Estonian handicraft

comes in many forms. There are woollen sweaters and mittens with local ethnic patterns, linen sheets and tablecloths, crocheted shawls and veils, colourful woven rugs, handmade jewellery and glassware, baskets, and an array of wooden spoons and butterknives made from juniper. Fine and applied art for show and purchase is on display at art galleries around the country, featuring graphics, glass, ceramics, hand-painted silk scarves and leatherwork. Various herbal teas from wild plants are available at pharmacies.

Local

honey – pure or flavoured, e.g. ginger, is another

Language

delicious treat. In rural areas, you may find hand-

ver, silence is gold”. It is, therefore, no wonder that the people are not very good at small talk, do not waste too much time on grand introductions,

milled flour. And those who keep coming back

Estonian is not widely spoken in the world, so

and usually come straight to the point. This is why

swear by the Estonian black rye bread. To bring

Estonians do not expect short-term visitors to

Estonians’ English may sometimes sound shock-

home local spirits, popular choices include Vana

master the local language. Still, local people

ingly direct. There is, however, often a subtle irony

Tallinn or kristallkümmel liqueur or local beer. And

are thrilled and pleased to hear a foreigner say

involved in Estonians’ utterances - delivered with

there is no place better than Estonia to buy Esto-

“Tere!” (Hi!) or “Aitäh (Thank you) in Estonian.

a serious face and just the slightest twinkle of the

nian music.

Knowledge of foreign languages is naturally a

eye.

must for hotel staff and numerous other professions in the service sector. Many people are

Estonians are relatively individualistic. There is a

fluent in English, particularly the younger urban

saying that five Estonians mean six parties. Even

generation, and a great number of people also

though people agree on the final objective, they

speak Finnish, due to Finnish TV, Finland’s close

insist on reaching it in their own ways. Estonians

proximity to Estonia and the great number of

also value their privacy. In the old days, it was said

Finnish tourists. German is less widely spoken

that the neighbour’s house was close enough if

in Estonia, although previous generations have

you could see the smoke from the chimney. Mod-

often studied German, not English, at school.

ern, tight-packed urbanites flock to remote coun-

Russian-language use has dropped to a point

tryside on the weekends to enjoy more space and

where older people no longer speak the lan-

privacy.

guage well and the younger generation have already chosen other languages to learn at

Even though guests at birthday parties and con-

school. Studying French has become more popu-

certs are rather quiet and subdued in the onset,

lar over the last few years but the number of

they warm up eventually and turn into a direct

people who speak French is still quite small. An

opposite of their day-character, as you are likely

English-Estonian dictionary is available online at

to see in Tallinn’s clubs.

www.ibs.ee/dict.

82

LIFE IN ESTONIA I 2010 SUMMER

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