FREEBORD... SIX WHEELS TO FREEDOM ...P168
SURF TOWN CRONULLA
ISSUE #9 JAN/FEB 2012
HOMEGROWN
INSPIRING PEOPLE UNDERTAKING MOST INSPIRING PROJECTS ...P46
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TRAVEL BUG
SNOW AND SURF ADVENTURES ALL ‘ROUND THE GLOBE
THE MAGAZINE FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO SURF
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Maldives
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Intercon tinental M oorea
www.theperfectwave.com.au 3/01/12 5:50 PM
DETAILS & THINGS
WHERE TO PICK SMORGASBOARDER UP Quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafes on the coast of Queensland,
New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania. For a full list of distributors, visit the directory in the back of the mag or just get to your local surf shop and talk to some real people, in the flesh. If you see a local store advertising, please support them! They’ll also have the lion’s share of mags in your area. smorgasboarder is published six times a year.
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Terapai Richmond is well respected in Cronulla. He is one of those talented people that can do anything and he doesn’t seem to be trying. He is obviously an excellent tube rider. He charges the reefs around Cronulla with no fanfare. He’s a ridiculously talented soccer player and drummer, in the The Whitlams, his own band called Directions In Groove. and he often works as a session drummer for all the international touring stars. Here’s “The Pieman” standing tall at Cronulla Point in June 2011. Photo Brad Whittaker/ oceanart.com.au courtesy of Sutherland Shire Council. For more about Cronulla, see Page 110.
BOYS & GIRLS OF SMORGASBOARDER LOTS OF STUFF & ADVERTISING Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 345 201 SYDNEY STUFF Ben Horvath ben@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 362 788 LOTS OF STUFF & DESIGN Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au 0400 875 884 SOUTH AUSTRALIAN STUFF James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au 0410 175 552 STUFF, ACCOUNTS & EVERYTHING ELSE Louise Gough advertising@smorgasboarder.com.au MORE DESIGN STUFF: Dean Slockee PROOFING, TEST STUFF & STUNTS: Gus Brown
CONTRIBUTORS
Thank you so much to all you talented champions. Without you, we would only have stories about two bald guys doing dumb crap all the time.
Ideas & submissions: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au
WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.
We print with Pep Central and Craft Inprint Group, an environmentally aware and committed printer whose business is founded upon the principles of minimising waste and maximising recycling. Nice work.
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LATEST: WELCOME
IMITATION IS THE SINCEREST FORM OF FLATTERY
It’s true. You may have a unique idea or an innovative approach to something that soon has everyone copying you. At first it’s hard to take, after all it’s ‘yours’ not ‘theirs’. After a while you settle down, simply content in knowing you were ‘right’ and not going crazy. It’s the theme on which we’ve based this latest edition of smorgasboarder. We talk with a number of home board builders about their passion for shaping boards, namely wooden ones. This ‘Splinter Group’ of amateur enthusiasts are truly paying the ultimate homage to the artisan skills of shapers by striving to replicate their masterwork, all the while gaining a true appreciation for the craftsmanship involved. Mark and I join in and try our hand at shaping alaias for the first time. Inspired by the work of renowned shapers such as Tom Wegener and Geoff McCoy, I looked to employ a number of their design theories within my own board. Mark, on the other hand, tried his best to recreate a wooden version of the rocket ship from Lost in Space. Speaking of Geoff McCoy, we talk with the ever-candid, legendary shaper about the evolution of his thick, wide-tailed, single fin designs - from the Lazor Zap through to the Astron Zot. Challenged by many through the years over the validity of his designs, it’s interesting to note how often the latest models from shapers today take on a similar plan shape. On the skate side of things, we feature the revolutionary Freebord, a skateboard that is not really anything like a skateboard. It in fact imitates the feel of a snowboard, just on wheels. And on that note, I’ll leave you to get stuck into this exciting new edition and sign off with my imitation signature.
Dave
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Bob McTavish
Fireball - 9’1” & 9’6” Stylist - 9’0” Carver - 7’6” & 8’0”
MAIN: Shellharbour photographer-on-holiday Jay Schmitzer imitates a dolphin to snap this beautiful empty in Coffs Harbour
SURFTECH AUSTRALIA
www.surftechaustralia.com.au jan/feb 2012
02 4226 1322
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R: Rodger Eales | P: Aaron Schall
SEE OUR ENTIRE
WATCH OUR VIDEOS AT
YOUTUBE.COM/ARBORCOLLECTIVE CONNECT WITH US AT: FACEBOOK.COM/ARBORCOLLECTIVE
DEALER: INFO@FUTURESPORT.COM.AU PH: (02) 4365 1838
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INSIDE THIS ISSUE
12
LADIES FIRST
35
A CLICK IN TIME
Enjoy a double-dose of the better half of the surfing family
Celebrate 100 years of Australian surfing photography
46 HOME BUILDERS
Take a look inside the lives of passionate backyard board builders
66 ROUND TWO
The second clash of wannabes - Dave and Mark shape-off again
86 INDIAN OCEAN
Take a trip to Reunion Island with travel character, Jay Killvan
ALL THE USUAL BITS THE LATEST
16 Feedback & Reader Photos 28 News & Community
TRAVEL
86 Surfing Reunion Island 96 Snowboarding in Niseko
GEAR
139 The shaper’s apprentice 140 Theories of Geoff McCoy 148 New board designs 167 Skate safety 176 Test everything
CLOSEOUT
180 Reviews and fashion 184 Counter culture: Underground 192 Relax
FEET FIRST
110
CRONULLA
168
SIX WHEEL PSYCHO
182
TO THE GALLERY
Local Ben Horvath introduces us to the people and the place
SKATEBOARDING FEATURE: Discover the revolutionary Freebord
We talk to a Gold Coast surfboard spray artist turned fine artist
A very classy dismount caught by Wollongong photographer Clarrie Bouma - our featured snapper this edition. For more about the man, his life and his fantastic work, see the interview starting on Page 76
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Tammy and friend Tash enjoying Caloundra’s mellow days. PHOTOS: Supplied
LADIES FIRST
INTRODUCED TO SURFING LATE IN LIFE, TAMMY PASCOE DISCOVERED SHE WAS A FANATICAL SURFER AT HEART. WORDS: DAVE SWAN
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“I was living in London, really homesick. I met this guy and we planned to buy a Bedford van to travel around Europe. “When the guy we were buying the van from heard we were from Australia, his eyes lit up. He thought being from there we must know how to surf. He was just so animated when he talked about surfing that I thought to myself there really must be something to it. “He said to us, ‘That’s how you should travel Europe. Follow the surf.’ “I rang my cousin back in Australia and asked him where I might be able to get a board. He told me the only place he really knew of was Goodtime. So I rang them. “I was working as a nurse on night shift at the time and during a break decided it was the perfect time to ring Australia, given the time difference. So here I was feeding coins into a pay phone and Gail Austen, the owner of Goodtime, picks up the phone. I started asking her whether I was too old to learn to surf. I told her I was 26 years of age and all my friends back on the Gold Coast thought I was nuts, particularly considering the fact I was living in England. “Gail arranged to send me over this mini mal. The board bag arrived and to my surprise, Gail had also packed it with all these surf clothes and a note that just said, ‘Good on you for giving it a shot. Go for it. Surfing will change your life.’ That was in 1998. “When I got the board I went straight down to Croyde Bay near Devon. It was the middle of winter and I was too tight to hire a wetsuit, because I wanted to have beers that night (laughs) so I went out with just a wetshirt. I stayed out there though because I was really interested.
respect for the ocean. I had no idea how much you could get out of it. “I still remember getting that rush for the first time when I caught my first green wave... My eyes felt bigger than my head.” Tammy’s other great love is yoga, which she discovered thanks to surfing. “I was told yoga would help with my surfing and make me be a nicer person (laughs)... Well, at least a little more patient. Patience didn’t come naturally to me.
Gerry LOpez
“When I first started practicing yoga, I found it taught me to concentrate, focus and just enjoy what was happening at that particular moment and to not take everything so seriously... To learn to laugh at myself. “Power yoga helped with my upper body strength. I was a stick-person with no upper body strength and I found it really hard to push myself up on my board. Power yoga changed that.” So dedicated was Tammy to yoga that she became an instructor, registering her own business, Yoga NRG, in 2006. “I used to go down to Moffs (Moffat Beach, Caloundra) to practice yoga and watch the sunrise. A few ladies asked if I taught, and having just completed my teaching training, I started a class on Friday mornings. More and more ladies started coming down and I thought maybe I would like to do this full time.” The combined passion for yoga and surfing led Tammy to the next phase of her business career - surf and yoga retreats that she now runs with a close friend, Belinda Wehner. “Surfing and yoga had changed my life, so I just created my business around what I love.”
“I had no idea what I was doing. The first day I didn’t do anything. On the second day I caught my first wave. I thought it was the best thing.” Tammy had officially caught the bug and headed off to surf spots such Ericeira and Figueira do Foz in Portugal, Mundaka in Spain and Hossegor in France. She soon came to realise learning to surf in Europe was a lot harder than it could be back home and decided to move back to the Gold Coast. For the next eight months she worked as a nurse on the late shift and surfed every morning for three hours or more. But what was it exactly that got her hooked so well and truly? “Surfing changed my whole body, my whole attitude,” she says enthusiastically. “I was a pretty impatient person. When it came to surfing, I was a slow learner. It challenged me to show a little more heart and be patient with myself. It also gave me a great deal more
TAMMY PASCOE is the founder of Yoga NRG. As well as a range of yoga classes, including the popular beach sessions, they schedule regular surf and yoga retreats. www.yoga-nrg.com
Surf Music - 9’6” & 10’ Big Darling - 10’6” & 11’2” Lil’ Darling - 8’11” Sweetie Pie - 8’10” Sweetie Pie Ultraflx - 8’5” & 9’4”
SURFTECH AUSTRALIA
www.surftechaustralia.com.au jan/feb 2012
02 4226 1322
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LADIES FIRST First Love, a surf movie released in early 2011, tells the story of three local girls from Phillip Island, Jess Laing, Nikki Van Dijk and India Payne in a quest to cut it with the pros in Hawaii. Along the way, we follow their lives and see what it’s like to surf through a freezing winter in Victoria, cope with school, illness and injuries and how it all affects their lives and their families. We also get to see some amazing surfing from these talented young women as they show the training, determination and fun you can have when you dedicate yourself to something you love. I caught up with Jess Laing - narrator and co-star of the film - to discuss surfing, life and how things have changed in the past year since the movie’s release. HOW DID YOUR INVOLVEMENT IN ‘FIRST LOVE’ COME ABOUT? Director Claire Gorman started filming Nikki and then she contacted me via email and asked if she could do some filming of me and I was like ‘yeah sure’. I remember asking her, ‘How about we get India on board as well?’ So, she just started filming all three of us and it all grew from there. It was pretty weird how it all happened. 14
HOW DID THE EXPERIENCE CHANGE YOU AS A SURFER AND A PERSON?
YOUR CO-CONSPIRATORS IN FIRST LOVE, NIKKI AND INDIA... WHAT ARE THEY UP TO NOW?
I got used to having a camera in my face all the time. And it was just really weird, all of a sudden we’ve gone from just being surfers on the island and then were standing in front of big crowds and everyone’s coming to watch us film and we’re answering questions in front of four hundred people, which was really big and scary and really cool to be able to do something like that.
India’s busy doing Year 12 but she’s almost finished. Nikki’s in Year 11 and she’s doing as much school as she can as well as travelling around and competing in places like Sri Lanka. She’ll finish school next year.
HAVE PEOPLE CONTACTED YOU FROM ANY STRANGE PLACES? Well, First Love has a website and people have been saying ‘When’s the film coming to Germany or the US?’ and stuff like that. I never expected because we thought it would be just a local surf film. A lot of people have also come to me on Facebook and messaged me through there and said the movie has influenced them to surf, or they’ve been through an injury like I had during filming, so it’s good that people are actually getting something out of it. It has mostly been people from Australia that have contacted me so far.
YOU’VE BATTLED THE ‘TIRED WAR’ AGAINST CHRONIC FATIGUE SYNDROME FOR SEVEN LONG YEARS AND YOU ENDURED A SHOULDER RECONSTRUCTION DURING THE FILMING OF FIRST LOVE. HOW HAS THIS IMPACTED YOU AND YOUR FAMILY ON A DAY-TO-DAY BASIS? The chronic fatigue was really hard and the family had to deal with me every day being grumpy, sick, tired... well... exhausted and, I guess, I couldn’t do things that my friends were doing, like sleepovers and stuff like that. It made it really hard, not just for me, but everyone in my family. But my surfing was just something that could help me push through. Then I had to have the shoulder reconstruction, which made it so much harder because I couldn’t surf and was just lying on the couch going crazy in the middle of winter. It was so hard for everyone, not just me.
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WHEN THE SWELL DIES OR THE WINDS GO ONSHORE WHAT DO YOU DO TO STAY GROUNDED? There’s always surf around here, but I do catch up with friends and I like reading, even though I haven’t read in ages. I like to take photos and that’s something I’m always going to do. I like most modern music, as well as Dad’s old music because it has actual words and it’s music that you can sing along to. BEING PART OF A FAMILY THAT ARE ALL INVOLVED IN SURFING, HOW MUCH ABOUT THE HISTORY OF SURFING, SURFERS AND OLD BOARDS HAVE RUBBED OFF ON YOU? I don’t know. I’ve never really got into it but that’s something that I will do because Dad’s old boards are cool and I like that sort of stuff. But Dad and Dano are telling me to get on an old single fin to slow my surfing down, and I do it, but I just get really angry because it’s so different and it’s not going anywhere. (laughs) WHAT DO YOU THINK OF HOW FEMALE SURFERS ARE PORTRAYED IN TODAY’S SURF MEDIA? I think it’s getting better with the fact that female surfers are getting better and there are more girls in the water. There are girls out there now that would kick some of the guy’s butts, which would have not happened a few years ago.
FOR MORE ON THE MOVIE AND TO WATCH THE TRAILER, VISIT WWW.FIRSTLOVETHEFILM.COM
But they’re not getting enough attention. That’s why I think the whole competition thing is just dropping off. We go to a competition and get half the amount of money the guys do and it’s not right, because it’s costing us the same amount to get there. But you hardly see girl surfers in surf magazines. I think the media has just turned, actually and their looking for the whole lifestyle, someone who’s a surfer and plays guitar or is an artist. WHAT DOES THE WORD ‘LOVE’ MEAN TO YOU? I’ll relate it back to surfing. It’s something that’s always there for you and something you can have fun with. It’s not going to let you down and you can trust it. You can’t live without love in your life.
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Somewhere in Western Australia. Jarrod Slatter lets us in on a fun little wave from the west. Photo: Jarrod Slatter
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READER PICS Miles Livingstone, Moffat Beach Photo: Peter Pacoe 18
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Lives in Toowoomba, surfs on the Sunshine Coast . Now that’s dedication. GoPro self-portraits by Matthew Rutherfoord
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1 7 9 1 e c n i S
“is what surfing is all about”
www.goodtime.com.au
Goodtime Surf & Sail 29 Ipswich Road, Woolloongabba, Brisbane
07 3391 8588 info@goodtime.com.au JOIN US ON FACEBOOK!
F RO OU LIN E T ON AL TU UR GH V I R ITH O ROU A H T E W K LK TA H OP WA ES TH V IDEO
Come and see Gail and the Goodtime team at the Gabba 20
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LETTERS
My 13 year old son, Ben, is an avid ‘smorgasboarder’ who tells me that your magazine is not about name brands and is for everyday surfers like him and his mates. Flicking through one of your recent issues I see what Ben meant when I noticed the absence of “name brand” ads and read articles about beaches like Caloundra, where Ben surfs. The fact your magazine is free is an absolute bonus for us parents and also instills in kids that there is more to surfing than brands and sponsored surfers. However, I’d love to let your readers know about a recent encounter Ben had with Mick Fanning at Snapper Rocks just before Christmas. While you hear many stories about sports stars behaving badly, Mick was absolutely sensational when Ben asked him for a photo. Mick was very engaging and took the time to shake hands and ask Ben how he was going. Mick re-affirmed that there are plenty of great sportsmen and women who haven’t forgotten where they came from. Mick has a lifelong fan in Ben (and Ben’s parents!) now, what a legend! Tania Cross, Shorncliffe, Qld Good blokes are good blokes, pro or no. Good job, mum!
Lake surfing... Mike rides one of his handmade boards
“MICK RE-AFFIRMED THAT THERE ARE PLENTY OF GREAT SPORTSMEN AND WOMEN WHO HAVEN’T FORGOTTEN WHERE THEY CAME FROM.”
MICK’S A HIT
STAY STUCK...
letters@smorgasboarder.com.au
Stick It wax was formulated to stick to your board better than any other wax on the global market. Stick It doesn’t get bare patches and will often last over 3 times longer than your average wax giving you a longer more comfortable surfing session time after time!
Mike Roberson from the USA. I just wanted to let you know I thought your last magazine was the best yet. You got me longing to get down to Australia. I even looked into airfare. Once my kids get a little older we are going to make the trip. Mike Roberson, Grand Haven, Michigan USA
Jake Thompson
LOVE FROM THE LAKES For more information, see
WWW.STICKITGROUP.COM TROPICAL • WARM • COOL • COLD • ALL WATER
Thanks Mike - it’s great to know the word is spreading so far and wide. Make sure you book that holiday! jan/feb 2012
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ER
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THE XXX! MOMENT
A SNAPBACK LIKE NO OTHER I was surfing Turtles on Java with one other - a bloke called Guy from WA. My wife and another surfer sat on the beach watching. We both caught bombs and were paddling out together with the sound of the two spectators hooting from the beach when Guy says, “Sounds like Kym’s shouting crocodile?!” Now my hearing ain’t great at the best of times but when we looked around and saw both of them giving the internationally recognised symbol for crocodile (you know the one: arms out jaw like, fingers like teeth, open and close) we decided it was probably best to catch one in. Turns out they’d seen something just along the beach, gone to investigate and as they got closer realised it was a three-metre salty, just as the critter slipped back into the sea! It didn’t stay there for long though and was soon back to sunbaking. Locals called other locals who turned up with ropes and ‘Irwined’ it. The obvious question was, what the hell is a salty doing on a beach on Java? It turns out the answer was more incredible than the fact. A new power station is being built about 50km north of Turtles and the site kept getting ripped off, so some bright spark decides to build a moat around the site and import six crocs to put in it. I’m not even making this up. Anyhow, wet season comes, moat fills up, four of them go walkabout. One had already turned up at Cimaja, much to the delight of the restaurant owners. Ours at Turtles was taken away by Park Rangers and two were/are still at large. Only in Indo! Gary Young, Kiels Mountain, QLD Enjoy your new Triple-X wetsuit, Gary!
“What the h ell is a salty doing on a beach on Jav a?”
Share your Triple X moment and win a terrific Long-Arm Spring suit from Triple X Wetsuits, The hottest wetsuit you’ll ever wear. letters@smorgasboarder.com.au jan/feb 2012
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SWITCH YOUR THINKING
Trade in yo$ur!!old
SURFBOARD against a brand new P, surfboard, kiteboard SU other gear or
INTERSTATE? NO WORRIES!
LEFT: Leash history BELOW: Mick with his surf collection
SAVE
Short boards, mini mals, mals, logs, fishes, alaias, whatever you have laying around in the shed or even your pride and joy sitting in the lounge room... We want it!
The sport of surfing has spawned many other board sports. Skateboarding, windsurfing, snowboarding, wakeboarding and kiteboarding come to mind. All of these offshoots of surfing have left surfing for dead in one area: riding ambidextrous - or going switchfoot. Most surfers go through their whole lives without even trying to surf the other way. Their ego stops them as they don’t want to look like a kook. As a goofy footer on the North Coast surfing mostly right handers, if the wave has an easy take-off, I go switch. The excitement level is raised just doing any turn, and getting barreled is amazing. Anybody out there that wants to try, start going switchfoot on your skateboard down a gentle slope. Getting your back foot to learn how to turn is the hardest bit. When you feel comfortable turning the skateboard into tighter turns, the next step is trying to surf switchfoot. The easiest way is find a nice, peeling wave, about a metre high. Take off kneeling up and when you feel in control jump up switchfoot with your hands on the rails until you stabilize. Jeffrey’s Bay is pumping three-metre waves. A surfer takes off goofy and blasts a couple of vertical backhand re-entries on the big walls of the Bay. He does a cutback, switches feet and then flies along the Supertubes section getting barreled naturally... We have tow in surfing, carving surfing and aerial surfing. The future of surfing is being able to do all types of surfing switchfoot. Ian Brown, Broken Head You are spot on Ian - switch is the way to go. Plus, it will give me a better excuse for being a kook in general.
We’ll even arrange freight and collection!
. . . S K R O W T I HOW ll or e-mail
h! Either ca
1. Get in touc
us
ade and u want to tr the board yo P, surf, kite or wake! t ou ab us 2. Tell ter - SU ar you’re af ur what new ge cture of yo a current pi e trade-in 3. Send us th ll evaluate much it board. We’ u know how hase yo t le d an rc pu price ur yo t ains is worth ag e organise th a price and and freight on e re ag e 4. W rfboard your old su door! collection of gear to your or d ar bo your new
G FaOt R? IN IT A W U O Y E R e th WHATCTAUS TODAY and tragdea r! e new CONTA rd for som old surfboa
LE LEGROPE... HAW! HAW!
Hi Just writing to let you know that the history of the leash is wrong. Enclosed are some notes from a mag dated June 1965 International Surfing Vol 1 No 4. Mick Kershler, Anna Bay NOTE: The little article (above) shows a French man, Durcodoy, with ‘new device to keep from losing his board.’ The writer goes on to say ‘Personally, I’d rather take a swim than have my leg snapped off.’ Thanks Mick! We followed up on that for you... According to our history man, Ondi, there were most definitely a number of earlier ways that people were trying as leg ropes in a personal capacity. They tied all sorts to themselves to avoid the swim, but the 70s kudos to Pat O’Neill is specifically for the first leash to go into production - essentially the beginning of the leash as we know it today.
letters@smorgasboarder.com.au
LETTERS 24
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RASHIES
info@triple-X.com.au
1300 483 634 WWW.TRIPLE-X.COM.AU
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give away, so here it all is...
Wave Tribe gear
1. BE SOMEBODY
Fancy yourself as a surfboard designer or shaper? Well, you can learn from one of the best! The man credited with developing the skills of manufacturers around the world, Peter White from Classic Malibu, is giving you the chance to show your skills, learn some new ones and become... The Shaper’s Apprentice. See page 139 for more information.
2. OUT OF BODY
Have you experienced a XXX! moment? Got a scary tale to tell or a death-defying photo of you in the surf? Send it in to win a terrific long-arm spring suit from Triple X Wetsuits. The hottest wetsuit you will ever wear. See page 23 for more.
3. EVERYBODY
Send us a photo of your ‘tribe’ on a wave, whether it be your family or friends - we want them all together in the one shot. The winning photo will get this great backpack, leg rope and cork eco deck grip from the guys at Wave Tribe. Zand Skirts
We’re the mag for everyday people and everyday people like you, me in demand. Arbor Skateboards are looking for a new team rider to be the face of their next marketing campaign. If you can skate, look like a normal dude or dudette, send us some photos of you ripping and you may just end up in here, sporting some free Arbor gear!
Arbor Skateboards
4. ABLE BODY
5. ANYBODY
Speaking of skating, new retro cruiser brand OBFive Skateboards has given us a couple of limited edition skateboards to hand over. That’s right - two of only 10 out there, so you can feel extra special. Tell us which of their boards is your favourite and why. To decide, check out their facebook page (look for obfiveskateboards on Facebook) and hey, like their page while you’re there! Say g’day from us.
OB Five Skateboards
6. COVER THAT BODY
The latest beach fashion from Amsterdam, Zand Skirts is here! To be the first to own one of these funky wraparound skirts, just drop us an email and tell us why you need one!
7. EVEN NOBODY
Even nobody’s are in demand. If you can’t really make claim to any sort of greatness but can surf and have a mate who will snap some photos, send them in and you just may be the face of GAS Fins in our March edition. See the GAS Fins ad on page 151 for more details.
8. AND EVERYBODY ELSE
We just want to see more and more of you in the mag. Hopefully you get the picture by now, and better still, will send it to us! Send us photos of you surfing, skating, snowboarding or most-anything-boarding. If it goes into the mag, you get yourself a cool t-shirt, cap or beanie from Surf Decals! Or vent, praise, discuss... Send us an interesting letter, email or rant and if it makes its way into our next edition you win yourself a copy of the surf thriller Caught Inside personally signed by none other than Ben Oxenbould!
SO SIMPLE
Just hit us up on competitions@smorgasboarder.com.au with what you’re entering as the subject.
Caught Inside DVD
Contact us for a FREE custom order quote for your personalised
We just love free stuff and have heaps to
GAS Fins
HERE
FREE STUFF!
Surf Decals gear
SURFECTION • MICKEY RAT SURF • SHOP TAHITI • SURFRIDER TAHITI • SALTWATER WINE • MARINE CORAIL • EVOLUTION • ATOLL ADVENTURES • SAVAII SURFARIS • LOCAL MOTION • GOLDEN BREED • GLOBAL SURFTAG • FAITH • SALTWATER SURF SCHOOL • TRENT MUNRO SURF • ACADEMY • CHEYNE HORAN SURF SCHOOL • LEE WINKLER SURF SCHOOL • SOULRIDER SURF SCHOOL • SURF CAMP AUSTRALIA • MARGARET RIVER SURF SCHOOL • PORT STEPHENS SURF SCHOOL • ASP EVENTS • LE-BA BOARDRIDERS • BAR BEACH BOARDRIDERS • MERIMBULA BOARDRIDERS • YURAYGIR BOARDRIDERS • ALBANY BOARDRIDERS • SCOTT HEAD BOARDRIDERS • HALF TIDE BOARDRIDERS • EVANS HEAD LONGBOARDERS • NSW LONGBOARDERS • LENNOX LONGBOARDERS • BALLINA MALIBU
Get your personalised gear printed by Triple-X today!
jan/feb 2012
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NEWS THIS IS THE
Surf Fitness Training Surf-specific workouts
you can do at home Get fitter, stronger and your surfing enhance performance
WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND OUR SIDE OF THE COAST editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au
more waves, Catch Get more barrels better and have Surf more fun
facebook.com/smorgasboarder
OUT OF THE BLUE, INTO THE POWDER
To get started with your free surf-specific workout, visit...
www.TOTALSURFINGFITNESS.COM/freeworkout
MANLY SURFBOARDS
If you’re looking for a break from the crowds out on the waves, now is the time to score some cracking packages to the snowfields of Japan. It’s a great way to help the people of Japan get back on their feet after the devastating earthquake and tsunami that hit in March 2011. Snow and Surf Travel Company and SkiJapan.com have unbelievable packages to the Land of the Rising Sun. To read more see our story on Page 96.
. airs in town p e r g n di t s Be
46 NORTH STEYNE RD, MANLY NSW 2095
T
Speaking of natural disasters, let’s avoid making matters worse by doing our best to protect the environment. Entropy Resin is the industry’s FIRST USDA BioPreferredSM Certified liquid epoxy resin product. Apparently this resin has low sensitising ingredients for increased user safety. Its low viscosity means it can be used on all foam and wood blanks. For more details see www. surfinggreen.com.au
AWARDS GALORE FOR HOLIDAY PARKS More boards than you can poke a log at.
s Harbour NSW 392 Harbour Drive, The Jetty Strip, Coff shack.com.au elog www.th Phone: 02 6658 0223
HIT THE ROAD If you enjoy feasting on anything surf related from surfing to SUP, kiteboarding to wakeboarding and live on the Sunshine Coast, a truckload of gear may be heading your way. The Ocean Addicts mobile demo centre will be travelling around various local breaks, so keep your eyes peeled. www.oceanaddicts.com.au
TO THE POINT
02 9976 0591
EARTH FRIENDLY RESIN
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twitter.com/smorgasboarder
North Coast Holiday Parks’ 23 holiday parks along the NSW North Coast have recently won a stack of awards. Clarkes Beach at Byron Bay has won all this in 2011 – The Gold Gumnut for sustainable environmental and socially responsible management, Environmental Excellence Award, Eco-friendly star accreditation from AAA and was voted one of Australia’s Top 10 Eco parks for 2011 by the readers of Holiday with Kids magazine. Other parks received awards including Scotts Head, Nambucca Headland and Ballina Central.
Surfboard noses are certainly in the news of late after a surfer in NZ recently had a surfboard nose penetrate 7cm into his face going through to the roof of his mouth, before it broke off, leaving 20cm of it protruding from his cheek. (You can now let out a collective ‘aaarrgghhh!’) For more gore read www. heraldsun.com.au/news/ world/surfer-survives-afterchunk-of-surfboard-becomesembedded-in-his-head/storye6frf7lf-1225954967493. Sydney University’s ‘Save Sight Institute’ are about to conclude a study attempting to quantify the number of NSW surfers who injure their eyes every year through surfboards accidents. George Greenough, famous surfer and filmmaker has long campaigned to take sharp edges off surfboards to reduce risk of a penetrating injury. Others, like Mona Vale shaper Ron Wade, believe surfers should be responsible for the risks they take. Ron reasons, ‘’Do we need to use rubber golf balls because you might get hit? People on the golf course have been killed.’’ It is certainly a contentious issue that is on the nose with surfers and shapers alike. Accidents do happen. Just look at Page 178.
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photo: Shane Newman
PHOTO: Nana
YOUR CHANCE TO WIN A TRIP TO SURF HEAVEN 2012 marks 20 years operation for Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures. As part of the celebrations there is a trip for two up for grabs to Ombak Indah Losmen in South Sumatra, including airfares. Nev Hines started Freeline back in 1992 with a land based trip to West Java. Stu Horstman joined Nev in partnership 5 years later in 1997. Stu recently had this to say, “It was a fun but rocky road with all the Indo trouble years from about 1997 to 2006 but we had heaps of great waves and made a lot of good friends along the way. Nev passed away last year and we talked about making it to 20 years: ‘All you have to do is hang in there and keep surfing’… Nev didn’t quite make it, but we’re stoked to still be going strong, hence the big prize of a trip for two, flights included.” Entering the competition is easy. It basically entails going onto Freeline’s Facebook page, clicking ‘Like’ and completing the Competition Signup form and answering the question, ‘What is the name of the break located in front of Ombak Indah Losmen, South Sumatra?’ Full details of the comp are available at www.freelinesurf.com.au/freeline-20-year-anniversarycompetition.htm To read more about Freeline and surfing in heaven, see Page 84.
To drive the point home, see page 178
UNDERDOG LOVERS We love all kinds of dogs but most notably, underdogs. And it’s high time for us to show some extra affection. Times are tight. Everyone is feeling the pinch. But you know the old saying, ‘You don’t know what you have got until it is gone’. Well, our iconic surfboard shaping industry, so much a part of the fabric of Australian beach culture is under threat of disappearing altogether. With news reports of shonky, supercheap and substandard Chinese import boards very topical in the news at the moment, you have to ask, ‘Will we just sit back and do nothing, only to wonder in years to come if we should have tried harder? ‘ We may not have been able to save the likes of Vegemite from overseas hands, but let’s keep a few things for ourselves. Re-ignite your national pride and buy an Australian made surfboard, from a local shaper, in your local area. It’s good for the soul and our community. jan/feb 2012
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BEST SURF DOCUMENTARY Splinters, the directorial debut of filmmaker Adam Pesce, took home the Best Surf Documentary gong at the 41st annual SURFER Poll, which was held at the Turtle Bay Resort on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii. It follows other first place awards at the London Surf Film Festival and Hawaii International Film Festival. The film is the first feature-length documentary about the evolution of indigenous surfing in Papua New Guinea and is currently doing the rounds across the globe.
HIGH QUALITY, HANDCRAFTED AND UNIQUE, ECO FRIENDLY RECYCLED TIMBER FURNITURE.
For the trailer and more information, see the website: splintersmovie.com
SMORGASBOARDINGS You can now read every edition of smorgasboarder on the Ipad... and the iphone... as well as online, all at www.smorgasboarder.com.au Don’t go looking for us on iTunes because - WE ARE FREE - print or online. Any platform you choose. The mag for everyday surfers, completely free... And if that is not enough, you can check us out on Facebook and twitter, where we apparently do interesting stuff to keep you regularly entertained. Buggered if we know what that is. By the way @reader Did I mention I just had a ham sandwich – YUM. Hey, @reader... Mark is watching me type this silly message. Facebook.com/smorgasboarder twitter.com/smorgasboarder
COMMUNITY
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Can’t find MAGNETIC DECK GRIPS in your favourite shop? ORDER DIRECT! $29.50 delivered anywhere in Australia. Order 3 and get a free Magnetic Grip T-shirt.
LATEST IN SKATE There’s a new skateboard label on the Gold Coast, OBFive. Doing cool little retro cruisers, there’s also some sweet limited edition ranges available. To win yourself your own ‘Sailor Jerry’ cruiser, see Page 26. www.obfiveskateboards.com.au
WWW.MAGNETICGRIP.COM
The mums meet once a month to chat, share news and tell tall tales about their husbands. The club will be launched at the inaugural SurferMums meeting on Australia Day, 26th January 2012, at Moana surf beach.
FIIK have released sweet new decks for their complete range of powered skateboards. They also have a brand new clip featuring Joel Parkinson. Check it out at www. fiikskateboards.com and connect on www.facebook. com/pages/FiiK- ElectricSkateboards/105025949529866 New to Australia is the super schmick range of Koastal Longboards from California. Beautiful unique wood inlaid stringer decks, revolutionary Lucid Grip and Revenge Trucks add to the appeal of these cruisers. www.streetsup.com.au
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We’re onto these ladies in Adelaide... Very sneaky, this babysitting club on the beach. SurferMums is for mums with young kids who still want to get out on the water.
From time to time there will be extra activities organised, such as camping weekends near the beach and surf lessons for mums and young kids. At all monthly meetings there will be a large sunshade, a roped-off area for the safety of the kids and a First Aid kit. Mums pay a $90 membership fee per year. To join or to find out more, contact the coordinator Damia Ettakadoumi on 0408 683 088 or visit the SurferMums webpage www.surfergirls.com.au
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A huge congratulations to our stunt dummy, test pilot and good mate, Gus Brown, and his beautiful wife Tammy on the birth of their son Harvey Charles Russell Brown - from now on affectionately known to us as ‘The Wallbanger.’ We can’t wait to get him out on the water, testing gear and doing his dad out of a successful, unpaid job.
photo: Shane Newman
LITTLE BROWN DOG
FESTIVE SEASON FOR SURFERS With so many festivals and events coming, it feels like Christmas all over again!
SURFN’INK
13-15 January More than just an international tattoo convention attracting some of the world’s most renowned tattoo artists, it is a celebration of skin featuring body piercing to body painting, industry workshops, art exhibitions and live music. With so many in the surf industry sporting some ink, there’s also a healthy representation of shapers including the latest Inkside Surfboards from Dino Tziolis featuring artwork from event organiser Marco Ventura. www.tattoosurfnink.com
BLEACH: SURFING THE FRINGE 11-26 Feb, Southern Gold Coast
It’s the first year of this event and one we are super keen to check out. It runs from the start of the Burleigh Breaker Pro through to the Quiky Pro but the focus of the festivities will not be the comps, but rather all things surf culture - music, art, writing, film and photography. Instead of traditional gallery style set-ups though there will be a series of beachside and casual indoor pop up events liberally scattered across the coast from Currumbin to Snapper Rocks. There will be work from the likes of the talented Sean Scott and Jack McCoy, music by Blue King Brown and one of the best vintage surfboard swap meets going around at Underground on Sunday 26th. www.bleachfestival.com.au
ALLEY FISH FRY
4th March, Currumbin The initial idea of the Fry was to revisit the past to reignite some old school craftsmanship and inspired thinking centred on the fish surfboard design. What has transpired, particularly in recent years, is it has driven numerous professional shapers and home
board builders alike to really push the boundaries of design and apply modern theory and materials to a range of other retro style boards such as mini Simmons, hulls and logs along with fish. Today the event is a melting pot of creativity all on display to see for surfing enthusiasts. To read more about the fry, how it all started and the man behind it, see our story on page 46. www.thealleyfishfry.blogspot.com
NOOSA FESTIVAL OF SURFING 11-17 March
Back to the roots. Gone are the ticketed events in favour of a range of free entertainment. Aside from the action out in the water at First Point, a beach bar will be the centre of attention throughout the week with music, movies, fashion parades and chat shows every evening. With no pro events this year, its all amateur contests including the Noserider, Logger, Old Mal, SUP 5km race, Teams event and Finless. www.noosafestivalofsurfing.com
CALOUNDRA SURF FESTIVAL 6-8 April
Centred around the second oldest running surf contest in Australia, the Ma and Pa Bendall, this new festival will celebrate surf culture with competitions for aspiring amateur surf photographers, film makers, artists and shapers. These include The Art of Surfing, Short Film and Board Art. All works will be displayed and played at Caloundra RSL, the official sponsor of the event. A number of celebrity guest speakers are planned along with, surf displays, discussions and live music throughout the Easter long weekend, with a swap meet down at Moffat Beach on Saturday, April 7. For more details contact Matt Kelly on 0414 929 898 or visit www.caloundrasurffestival.org. jan/feb 2012
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lm Paddling the ca ern th or N of waters t ec way QLD - the perf scenery e to take in th
RIVERS? WHAT RIVERS? Well, surprise, surprise - Mother Nature doesn’t always play along. Covering the travel tales around Tommy Jacobson’s plan to paddle the longest rivers in Australia was torpedoed this past November due to bad weather. Tommy tells us that his first planned trip, of all things, on the Murrumbidgee River was unfortunately put on hold due to storms and wild weather. Not that it’s kept him out of the water, though. He sent us some pics from a road trip to Northern QLD instead where he spent a month up there traveling, exploring and riding different boards. Here’s a few snaps of the paddling and training around the idyllic islands and bays of the North. Bring on the river trips and tales. Keep abreast of it all at tommyjacobson.com
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Get pa
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Show your support for local Aussie shapers, loud and proud! $30 plus postage from smorgasboarder.com.au
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Heaps of colours and patterns to choose from!
Jan2012_Smorgas_Spread NEWS.indd 33
Go your own way
For around $50 you ca n brighten up your de ck with yo ur own personalise d combina Owen Wri tion of ght’ match tail s Customix mix-andpads by Oce an & Earth . www.oce anearth.c om
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ction of fins a great sele board or ve ha ns Fi S old GA w life into an your to breathe ne f your new stick. Ask of h is fin t y tl ou k perfec em, or chec shaper for th .a ns.com u www.gasfi jan/feb 2012
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Tommy Walker, by Osric Notley - 1911
THE MORE
THINGS CHANGE
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LATEST: CENTURY Marcus Greig - 2009
THE MORE THEY
STAY THE SAME Looking back over 100 years of surf photography, you can really witness the progress that’s been made in surfing: the changes in surfboards, style, maneuvers and basically what waves psychos are willing to take on. At the same time, it’s truly strange to look back on photos taken long before most of us were a twinkle in the eye and see those no longer with us, getting the same thrills from the same ocean, just as we do today. Yamba’s Deb Novak has put in a lot of hard work to bring together an amazing collection of visuals, documenting our very own surfing history. We’re stoked to be able to share a little bit of it with you.
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LATEST: CENTURY 7 ndon - 200 David Bra
FROM HUMBLE
BEGINNINGS You’re not the first. And you certainly won’t be the last. In fact, this surfing thing has been on the boil a lot longer than most of us know. Sure, we’ve all heard about the Duke formally introducing surfing at Freshwater and we’ve recently seen the Tommy Walker photograph that officially gazumped him as the first man on a board in our waters, but to take stock of the constant and growing popularity of our favourite addiction through the eyes of 75-odd photographers is something special indeed. Where better to hold this exhibition than in Yamba – the beautiful backdrop for the shot that started it all... 36
Hardworking journo, surf history devotee and an active member of the Yamba surfing community, Deb Novak, has brought together a body of work that marks and celebrates the centenary of Australian surfing photography - and what a journey it takes you on. The exhibition honours the pioneer of surfing photography, 18-year-old Maclean photographer Osric Notley who captured Australia’s first surfing photo at Main Beach Yamba in late 1911. Osric was a member of the newly formed Yamba Surf Life Saving Brigade and photographed his friend and Manly surf club member, Tommy Walker.
It’s interesting to note that only seven years before this historical photo was taken it was against the law to swim during daylight - hard to fathom when you consider that there are around 2 million Australians that surf today.
and standing up to silly laws, and while Australian surf culture was in its infancy, a new range of photographic equipment was about to enable the masses to create, capture and record the world around them.
Back in the early days, swimming was only permitted at dusk and dawn, but things changed dramatically when a man - the editor of the Manly Daily - openly defied this law by taking a midday dip. He was promptly arrested, but no charges were laid and soon after the laws were changed.
In 1888 Kodak launched a new camera with the slogan, “You press the button, we do the rest” and then three short years later launched its first daylightloading camera. In 1900 the famous Brownie cameras were introduced, selling for $1 and costing 15 cents to run. This opened the floodgates for photographic hobbyists all over.
Around the same time that people were stripping down
The legacy of Osric Notley’s first surfing photograph is absolutely mirrored 100 years later, as technological advances have again given the wider community an opportunity to pick up a camera - or even a mobile phone -and take a decent photo, many of which are well worthy of print. This leveling of the playing field is evident in the 100 years of Surfing Photography exhibition where, in the true spirit of surfing, legends of the lens like John Witzig, Albe Falzon, Jack McCoy and Christo Reid are hung
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Duke Kahanamoku, by Donald McIntyre - 1915
side-by-side images from lesser-known and unknown photographers - even an 11-year-old Yamba grommet, Phoenix Short has his work on display. Some of the gems on exhibit include the first tube ride captured by George Greenough as well as the two cover shots from the 1962 surfing bibles of their day, the first Surfing World and Surfabout magazines.
images of Australian surfing legends Ma and Pa Bendall from the Sunshine Coast. The 100 photographs showcased at the exhibition are not for sale and will form a permanent collection to be housed in Yamba. You can visit the exhibition at the Yamba Museum until February 3, 2012. Entry is $5 and the money raised goes to Disabled Surfing and the Yamba Museum.
Historical images like that of female surfer Isabel Letham and the Duke surfing at Freshwater in Sydney in 1915 is an absolute rare find as are jan/feb 2012
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LATEST: CENTURY
SOME OF THE MANY HIGHLIGHTS OF THE EXHIBITION INCLUDE:
• The first tube shot taken in Australia by George Greenough • Witzig with the headless McTavish • Cyclops and Shipsterns • First time published Bobby Brown • Byron’s old Blood and Guts with the wharf intact circa 1963 • Vintage and retro camera gear
Martin Tullermans - 1977
Rod Owen - 2010 38
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“YOU PRESS THE
BUTTON, WE DO THE REST” Kodak - 1888
Jarrason Bitton - 2010
Russell Ord - 2006 jan/feb 2012
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LATEST: CENTURY
V Gadsby - 1950
ONE CLICK IN
TIME CENTENARY OF AUSTRALIAN SURFING PHOTOGRAPHY
For more information on the exhibition, visit the Yamba Museum website at www.pyhsmuseum.org.au
Sean Davey - 2001 42
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IT’S HIGH TIME YOU PAID A VISIT TO WALLY’S...
Photos by Scotty Wintle. Recycled timber frame by Phil Johnson
UNIQUE AND INDIVIDUAL HANDCRAFTED SURFBOARDS BY JORDIE BROWN NOW IN STOCK
It’s all about the beach
6 Lorraine Ave • Marcoola Beach
07 5448 8560
NOW STOCKING: HIGH TIDE, BUSHRAT, BLACK APACHE, TOM WEGENER, SAS surf art • shells • driftwood things • chenille shorts • beach stuff • retro sunnies • thongs • stripy towels • umbrellas • hammocks • GoPro cameras jan/feb 2012 43
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The man, his workshop and one of the many fruits of his labour. PHOTO: Mark Chapman
Grant Newby. Who is he? Who is this man who has become the poster child for home board builders across Australia and around the globe? How did he end up behind the two most notable surfboard exhibitions in the country – the Alley Fish Fry and Wooden Surfboards Show & Ride?
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20 years as a Production Manager at busy Gold Coast advertising agency Quadrant means he has a creative streak, but what lead Grant to try his hand at board building in the first place, let alone inspire loads of others to do the same? We find out. WORDS: DAVE SWAN
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Growing up in Dargal, a small timber town on the north island of New Zealand above Auckland, established Grant’s affinity with water and wood. He first caught the surfing bug when he took out a Dunlop longboard he had inherited from a family friend who owned a local sports shop. Their daughter and Grant used to surf the board together, as it took the two of them to carry it down to the beach. In due course, Grant’s dad saw to making the board a more manageable size taking a metre out of the middle and joining it together again using two broomsticks as dowel. “Where we learnt to surf, there was 70 miles of open beach. We used to surf probably the 4th reef form of the waves belting in on the coast. When you came in from the water you would be a mile away from where you started. “Like most kids in NZ, you surf, kayak or sail as none of us lived that far from the coast. For me I have always liked getting out on the water. It is somewhere I just feel comfortable. When you go fishing or surfing you just go somewhere else. When you come back in, you feel totally relaxed. You are in a different place.“ HOW DID YOU FIRST GET INTO BUILDING BOARDS? “I always liked building things since I was a young fella. My dad had lots of tools and timber was in abundance. It seemed only natural, with my love of surfing, to eventually build a wooden board. I think there is certain amount of romance with timber.“
Josh Punch enjoying one of Grant’s boards a 5ft Simmons - in Bali.
“The first board I ever built was 9 or 10 years ago now. I still have it. It’s a 7’6” fish with plywood frame, ply deck and bottom and laminated cork rails.
“I was initially going to build a toothpick but then I thought, if I am going to go to that effort, what else is around? I got hold of some ideas from Paul Jensen and built a board along the lines of his style where it takes the form of a hollow ribbed construction. He was really the only one out there promoting the building of wooden surfboards at the time.
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“It seemed only natural, with my love of surfing, to eventually en build a wood board.”
“I was drafting up the plans on butcher paper. It was a very long laborious way to build a board but you learn an awful lot. You also learn an awful lot about yourself during the process. What it really shows is how much you take for granted. You sit on a surfboard for hours and hours and hours and you never really take in what goes in to making one, all the little bits that make up a board. “You find there is nothing better than building something that you then surf. That is a hell of a buzz. At the end of the day it is a huge learning curve and the whole thing is really a journey because as you build it, especially a wood one, a lot of time and effort goes into it. There is a lot of you that goes into it, so you have a strong connection with the outcome. And when you put it into the water and go ‘shit it floats’ (laughter), that is one revelation.” To many first time shapers this is the appeal of building a board with your bare hands. It also gives you a greater appreciation of the craftsmanship entailed in shaping a surfboard, along with a little hint of nostalgia. There is a sense you are following in the footsteps of our forefathers, many who shaped and surfed their own craft. But for Grant, building a board was never going to be a ‘one off’ experience. It was a hobby that was to become an addictive.
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WHERE THE FISH FRY STARTED “I love my surfing but I am not a great surfer. I do it for fun. I just enjoy the camaraderie of surfing and the social side of it and I am not alone. There are way more of us out there that surf for the hell of it than people that hope to be in a heat with Kelly Slater. “I pretty much enjoy surfing anything. I like to jump on a board and find out what makes it tick. I like discovering the feeling of boards. I like being inspired by seeing things. This is what surfing is all about to me.“ Through the years, as Grant’s passion for surfing and board building grew, he found himself regularly trawling the web for board building sites and blogs but sought a forum beyond the internet. On a trip to California he briefly met respected hollow wood board builder Danny Hess in Oceanside. It was there Grant came across an article promoting a Fish Fry organised by well known surf identities Sean Madison (former pro surfer and USA surf team coach) and Scott Bass (Director of the US Sacred Craft surfboard shaper exhibitions). Back in Australia, he got in touch with Sean and subsequently timed his next visit to California around the Fish Fry. When Grant returned home the second time, he started planning the first ever Fish Fry at Currumbin Alley, some five years ago. “I had learnt so much through the years but instead of travelling all over the place, I told people to, ‘Meet me in the park!’ Since then all sorts of dudes have turned up. I have met so many people without having to move anywhere from where I surf. That is a bonus in itself. “I thought there was a common interest out there. I put the word out on where to meet and thought to myself, ‘At the worst, I will end up in a park across from the beach I surf at, for the day, by myself – I can live with that.’ But many did come that first Sunday on March 4th March 2007. Five years on and going strong, the key to the Fish Fry’s success has been its simplicity. “I don’t promise anything and as such I don’t create any expectation. I just say, ‘Hey, we’re meeting in the park.’ “I don’t have any sponsorship and I don’t owe anybody. And I have kept it that way because the commercial side corrupts it all. People say to me, ‘What is in it for you?’ Well there is nothing in it for me. I just dedicate my time and effort into making it happen.” WOODEN SURFBOARD DAY The Wooden Surfboard Day, also at Currumbin Alley, followed some 2 years after the first ever Alley Fish Fry. Grant used the same simple format. “It was kind of a natural progression as there seemed to be a lot of interest in the wooden surfboard. I could see that there was a lot of development and experiment with regards to wood board building. I started a blog to share the knowledge of how to construct one and share experiences and the event grew from there. 400,000 people have now visited that blog.” Some 150 wooden surfboards were on display at the first ever event.
ise “I don’t prom st say, anything... I ju eeting in ‘Hey, we’re m the park.’”
Dan McDonald of DMS, California’s Rich Pavel, Queensland shaper Tony Dempsey... A few of the many faces at the annual Fish Fry over the years.
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Grant’s other motivation for organising such events is to shine the light on surfboard shapers and design. “Shapers have never had a forum that is about them. There is so much skill involved in the art of shaping a surfboard. Their craftsmanship is too often taken for granted.” It’s this approach that has seen both events attract innovative shapers from around the world strutting their stuff, many showing off classic hand made designs, beautiful resin tints and hand-foiled fibreglass and wood fins. “It gives the shapers a reason to shape something different and showcase their experiments. Those same innovative guys have now got into Simmons and hulls and old school boards. A lot of guys are getting those old plan shapes out and applying their theories on modern board design to them along with the latest materials to see how they surf. I want to embrace that.”
However, we asked Grant if it was difficult to have a coming together of minds from professional shapers through to backyard board builders. “Guys like Richard Pavel (world famous Californian shaper) who comes out every year for the Alley Fish Fry thinks it’s great as there is a new wave of interest and inspiration. Backyard board building is where the whole surfboard movement began. How can that be a bad thing? “Look at the old photos of Dick Van Straalen and Bob McTavish, they were shaping in old farmhouses. That is where it came from. Everyday they shaped a different board and shaped 6 inches off it and put more V in it. It was a continual path of discovery.” We couldn’t agree more. Not only do days like these encourage shapers to push the boundaries of design, they have shone the light on emerging talent and given everyday surfers a greater appreciation for quality craftsmanship. This can only be a step in the right direction of protecting our industry from
“What it really shows is how much you take for grant ed. You sit on a surfboard for ho urs and hours and hours and you never really take in what goes into making one, all the little bits that make up a board.” 52
the onslaught of cheap Chinese imports – a greater understanding of the difference between price and quality. GRANT’S TIPS FOR BUILDING YOUR OWN BOARD “Go to the Fish Fry or Wood Board Expo. It is a welcoming forum of people willing to share. You can sit around and talk about what works and what doesn’t.” Grant goes on to explain that these days are not only an opportunity to talk with other professional shapers and amateur enthusiasts, it is great to see first hand what they are shaping and trying to achieve with the design, along with the construction techniques and materials used. The blogs Grant has set up thealleyfishfry.blogspot.com and woodensurfboards.blogspot.com - are also another valuable source of information and inspiration along with design forum sites such as www.swaylocks.com
Josh Punch
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APPRECIATION FOR THE FINER THINGS
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The MC Quiver MICHAEL CUNDITH SURF DESIGNS
6’2” x 21 ¾” x 2 ½”
Islander
6’8” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”
Stubbie
6’8” x 22 ½” x 3”
As for his recommendation on what type of board to try first, “Start with a small board – a fish or something that’s easy to get your head around, so you are not bewildered by it all - a board that’s an enhancement of what you regularly surf. It will challenge you to think about what you ride. “You will discover what makes sense. Why the rails are shaped a certain way, what they do, how water flows around the plan shape and its curves. There are a lot of questions that need to be asked and then answered. “You start to look and admire things in a different way. It is a giant learning curve but an intriguing journey.”
Davenport Disc
6’10” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”
FOAM OR WOOD?
Whale Fish
8’0” x 25 ½” x 3 ½”
The Man Gun
9’1” x 22 ¼” x 3 ¼”
High Performance Mal
9’1” x 22 ¾” x 2 ¾”
Balsa Mal Telephone: 02 66858778 Fax: 02 66808932 Factory Showroom: 3 Banksia Drive Byron Bay Industrial Estate BYRON BAY NSW 2481 email: info@mcsurf.com.au
www.mcsurf.com.au 54
5’10” x 19” x 2 1/8”
Dart Fish
ON ANY MODEL
CUSTOM ORDERS
Danny Wills Rippa
9’6” x 24” x 3 ¼”
FREIGHT IT NOW! We’ll send boards anywhere in Australia for reasonable rates
“Foam is the easiest to start with. It is a lot less cost and you can get an outcome in a lot less time. Then there are guys like Richard Harvey who runs a shaping course. He will teach you the right way to shape a board. “Building a wooden board is not an easy way to build a board. It takes an awful lot of time. You are forever trying to build within the limitations of your tools, your ability and your imagination. But on top of all that, you are building a board inside out. It’s not until you have spent 75% of your time and effort, when you put the skin on and realise what the final shape looks like. With that said, you do have a tremendous sense of achievement when you build a wood board. “No matter what the outcome, you are happy with what you have done and what you have learnt. Not a lot of people get that feeling in life. If you enjoy surfing and you make a tool that you enjoy surfing – what a great feeling.” AS FOR HOW MANY BOARDS GRANT HAS BUILT HIMSELF. “I don’t know. I don’t count and I don’t put sizes on them because people pick it up and go, ‘Oh, I can’t ride that.’ They pre-judge it and yet they have never even ridden it. It’s always best to experience things firsthand to fully appreciate what you have.” www.surfboardsbygrantnewby.blogspot.com
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TWO:
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OH, WHAT A
LOVELY BUNCH OF COCONUTS
ONE BIG IDEA, MANY HELPING HANDS AND A JOURNEY THAT READS LIKE A TRAVEL BROCHURE OF THE SUNSHINE COAST LATER, DAMON BEREZIAT HAS TURNED A DECADE-OLD DREAM INTO A REALITY. WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN
“My coconut board is finally finished. It’s been a long, drawn-out process since conception of the idea and at times I thought it wouldn’t happen. Many people I asked for assistance told me to ‘go away’, ‘not interested’, ‘it won’t work’ or ‘I don’t want anything to do with it...’ But being determined, stubborn and persistent, Damon Bereziat is now the proud owner of a very usable surfboard made out of… coconut – an idea born sixteen years ago when he saw coconut wood floating in a lagoon in New Ireland, PNG. Now, coconut is not an easy material to source, we understand. Some research, a Frenchman called Henri and a borrowed ute with a GPS later, Damon set off for the wilds of Eudlo, in the Sunshine Coast hinterland to get his board under way. “Bardo is an eccentric and gifted master wood craftsman, missing lots of fingers and parts thereof, machined the four-by-twos straight, blunting all his tools in the process.” It turns out coconut is full of silica and not ideal to machine and cut. “He also helped me build my blank and allowed me access to his workshop and bandsaw!” The nut wood was then glued with newspaper and diluted Aquadhere glue (a non-toxic, quick setting PVA wood glue suitable for all types of wood) and with blank ready and waiting, Damon got stuck into the all-important design phase of the project. “My little bro, Beau, helped me design the shape with some AKU Shaper software we downloaded free from the internet. John Gillis from C.E.T. Surf in Warana then transformed my idea into a 3D computer file, and introduced me to a talented, passionate surfer and yachtsman who makes dreams become realities through state of the art computer technology and 3D modeling Mark Greystone” Damon travelled up to Cooroy after Mark agreed to cut the rough shape on his 3D routing machine, despite the clear and present danger to the delicate equipment. “I broke his router in the first 60 seconds of cutting, but he kindly replaced the broken part and continued while I stood there for four hours mesmerised as the machine went back and forth, back and forth...” The rough was shape done and Damon was left with a heavy, solid piece of coconut, far too heavy jan/feb 2012
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THE PROCESS: 1. A pile of wood and a Factory surfboard for inspiration. 2. The magical world of a Eudlo workshop. 3. The blank’s temporary glue-up. 4-5. Breaking the cutting machine. 6. At the Factory Paul Carson explains to Tom Wegener that Damon is a lunatic. 7-10. Creating the chambers, step by step. The blank is taken apart, the chambers are drawn on, cut out, and the blank is re-glued. 11. Nephew Brenden staking his claim to a soon-to-be family heirloom.
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to surf, so he decided to pay a visit to his good friend and local shaper, Paul Carson at Factory Surfboards in Caloundra. “It won’t work Damon. It’s too heavy. You’re a tripper...” was Paul’s initial reaction, says Damon. “I expected this reaction and nothing less from Paul as he’s a straight shooter and a realist, which I appreciate most times. But I knew he could be talked round if I annoyed him every Saturday for several weeks to get him to come on board with my idea. “He caved in. He agreed to glass the board and assist with making fins and refining my original shape. 58
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To lighten it, the board needed to be chambered. This involves taking the individual strips of the blank apart and then routing, cutting or even drilling holes through each individual piece to create hollow sections. After several nights of painstaking work, Damon gently and carefully broke apart the shaped blank and re-glued the strips into something that now had the weight and feel of an actual surfboard. “I was stoked and on the home stretch - finally able to see some light at the end of the tunnel, so to speak.” To allow for drainage, a brass bung purchased from a plumbing supplies shop was modified and inserted along with the some special trim - an inlay
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of two coconut palm trees. “Paul started me off and supervised shaping of the rails, finishing the fins and sanding her up prior to glassing after I burnt the name ‘Alize’ into my board and a bit into my skin - I stood on the soldering iron branding my bare foot. “It’s the French word for the trade winds and the name I gave to my new coconut board. My heritage, along with my trips to French Polynesia and Tahiti inspired me to name her the Alize.” “I then cut paua (abalone) shell into disks to represent coconuts and inlayed them into the deck. With the end in sight, Damon then foiled the coconut-inlayed fins and
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sanded the board, finishing it with a coat, a pro-finish and finally a light rub with a 400 grit wet-and-dry to produce one fine looking surfboard. “Almost sixteen years after I first had the idea I held the board under my arm and just looked at her lines for ages grinning like an idiot and so stoked! The board is my second most prized material possession - next to a ring my grandfather left to me when he passed away. “What’s made it more special is that as far as I can gather from my research, it’s one of a kind and that it was made by me - an average bloke – with the help of so many great, talented people who live and work on the Sunshine Coast.”
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take PrIDe Make your dream board with the highest quality surfboard kits from $620, complete with wood, epoxies, glass, fittings, manual and more.
www.caPeboatworks.com.au 37-39 Chapman St, Fairy Meadow NSW 2519 Phone: 02 4283 1115
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P A R T
T H R E E :
G E O F F
R I P P I N G A L E
LAND OF THE
RIPPING SUN THE MILKO BUILDER
STEP BY STEP: 1. Make a frame and start with a spar which is the piece up the centre and every 12 inches put a rib in. Connect them all up with stringers to get the basic shape. You can take the initial shape from an old surfboard - the width, thickness and rocker. 2. Glue all your strips of timber together to make a deck and a bottom. 3. Once they’re all together, epoxy glue them to the frame and wait until it all dries and trim up the excess. 4. Start gluing on all the 4mm solid rails on, then make and attach the tail and nose blocks. The nose block can be tricky matching up the deck and the bottom of the board. 5. Get your fins ready to go. 6. Glass and polish the board. 7. All done.
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MILK TRUCK DRIVER BY DAY AND WOODEN BOARD BUILDER BY NIGHT, GEOFF THE RIPPER OF KORUMBURRA, VICTORIA SHARES A LITTLE ABOUT HIS PASSION FOR PAULOWNIA LONGBOARDS AND MINI-MALS. WORDS: SIMON R KETTLE Geoff Rippingale started surfing in 1968 at Port Phillip Bay on a Coolite board before later graduating to a 8’ 3 George Rice. Through his teens, his father would take him to Point Leo as often as he could to ride the waves of First Reef, but what he really looked forward to was Christmas, when his family would head down the towards Lorne and surf at Wye River. Today, Geoff lives with his family at Korumburra and still likes to surf with his mates down at Kilcunda on the Bass Coast as often as he can, on one of the many beautiful handcrafted Paulownia surfboards he builds at home.
THE WO R K SHO P
INSPIR ATION
HANDY BAC KG R O UND
“I envisaged making an old paddleboard, because my dad had one of the old 16-footers that took three of us to carry down to the water. I thought I’d like to build one, but when I looked into it I found that people all around the world were building these hollow wooden surfboards, so that’s what I went for.”
“When I left school I became a survey draftsman for about seven years. I’ve taught myself to weld and I built my shed. I think if someone before me built it, than I can too. You should always have a go at doing something once.”
WHY PAU L OWNIA
“I just Googled ‘wooden surfboard plans’ and came up with a guy in California, Jack Young. I paid $25, and he sent me the plans to print out. I looked at them and thought, ‘If that’s how you do it, then that’s what I’ll do.’
“It’s a really light timber and it’s easy to work with because there are no knots in it, unlike pine. I like to put a bit of western red cedar in the boards to give them a bit of variety. I’m interested in wood anyway - I like to build a bit of furniture too. I’d tried making fiberglass boards when I was younger and buggered them up, so I wasn’t going to try it again. I’m not a shaper.” LONGBOA R DS “They are easy to make, but I’d like to make a fish too. I can ride these longboards at Cat Bay in Victoria or on small days at Kilcunda.”
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“I build the boards in the large backyard shed I put together myself and use a long, converted table and desk for shaping. I’ve also made stands from car wheels for doing the rails on the boards and they double as glassing stands. “I spend a lot of time in the shed. Other jobs around the house can get neglected. My wife would like to see me more often, but I get home from work from a night shift and I’ll go straight into the shed and glue some rails on before I’d go to bed.”
GE T T ING ST AR T E D
“So, I basically followed his plans but then I went my own way. There was a lot of research looking for vent plugs which I eventually found from a guy in Western Australia who makes SUPs. The fins... Well, I just copied off boards and photos I have and made a template from there.” S HAPING PR O B LE MS “Heat, too much heat in the shed on a hot day. And humidity is no good either. If it’s too cold I go in and light the pot belly and glass them in there. You have to pick your
times, otherwise you finish up with air bubbles, as a glasser would know. “I also sanded right through the deck once, which buggered me right up! But I took out the whole strip and replaced it. “The first board, the 9-footer, was the hardest to build, but I think it was my best because I put about 60 hours into it. I learned so much from the making of the first board and I’ve got it down to about 40 hours to make a board now.” MIST AKE S “Oh yeah, I’ve made a lot of mistakes. Look at all the resin on the floor. I don’t know how many fins I’ve made and buggered up! I could go and buy some FCS fins, but I wanted to keep with the tradition of these types of wooden boards.” P E R F O R MAN C E “I used to ride the first one all the time. It was good because you can walk the board a bit and the extra weight helps you paddle in and hang in the wave easily. “The 8-footers I’ve done are easier to turn especially because I built it with a 70/30 rail instead of a 50/50’. “Friends who have ridden them say they love them and that they think they look great. One mate, it’s the main board he rides and he says he always gets asked about where he got his board from when he paddles out. When they finish surfing the boards they hang them in the lounge.” ‘BY O B ’ ADVIC E “Do as much research as you can, tap into the internet and just go for it!”
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P A R T
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W H E E L D O N
ART, FORM &
FUNCTION
a Ribs, glue and ce en ti pa of t whole lo
“You’re essentially surfing a soundboard. They have a lot of character and are a lot of fun to surf.”
BOARD ARCHITECTURE
MAIN PHOTO: Greg disoplays his boards at the Currumbin Wooden Board Day. RIGHT: Details from the kiteboard and parquetry fish, and at work with son, Matt. 62
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EVER WONDERED WHAT ARCHITECTS DO IN THEIR SPARE TIME? UNFORTUNATELY WE FOUND OUT - THEY PUT MOST OF US TO SHAME IN THE SHED. WORDS: DAVE SWAN “I have always surfed, ever since I was a young bloke. I surfed down the Gold Coast in my younger years and then we moved to the northside of Brisbane and I now tend to surf up on the Sunshine Coast. “I have always enjoyed building things. From the age of 13, I used to build model gliders with 6ft to 8ft wingspans. They used similar principles of ribs and spars covered by a sheet that I use today in my boards. Aside from that, I often tinkered around making furniture and other bits and pieces so it was a natural progression to move into making wood boards. The first board Greg ever built was when he undertook a course with Californian wood board builder Paul Jensen organised by Grant Newby prior to the Wooden Board Day. Paul did a weeklong course at the Eco Village in Currumbin. “I took a week off work. We started Monday morning and by Friday we had a board finished. It was a great week with a bunch of about 10 guys. We would be up each morning at 5am for a surf, grab a bit of breakfast and we had to be at the workshop by 8.30am. We would work through to about 4:30pm, head off for another surf and then to the pub, enjoy some beers and pizza. A lot of fun. “I built a 9’ Mal very similar to a Bill Wallace Okanui with a slightly pointed nose and squared squash tail. I made it from paulownia and western red cedar with a plywood frame. Paul provided the frames. “At the end of the workshop everyone traced off everyone else’s frames. I now have tracings for a 9-footer, a 7-footer, a fish and an 8’ funboard. Greg decided it was too hard to trace those onto plywood and hand cut them with a fretsaw, as the process all up would take a week in itself. He worked out he could redraw them and have the ribs and frame sent to a laser cutter. It limited waste, significantly cut down laborious work and the ribs and frame were supplied flat. Plus the accuracy of the laser cut is millimetre perfect.
From there it takes Greg about 40 hours to construct each board. Obviously boards that feature intricate designs such as the parquetry board, take any where up to 80 hours. Such a pursuit obviously requires dedication, patience, a fair bit of skill and surely an understanding wife? “I guess so. I tend to mow the lawn in the morning and then in the afternoon, when it’s too hot, I sit down with a couple of beers on the back deck with the Kookaburras and spend some time on a board. You just sit down and off you go. “You can build these style boards with home handyman tools. I don’t have any special equipment really. I bought a little bench saw for $120 with a 200mm fine tooth wheel, a small belt sander, an orbital detail sander and a little mitre box for $5 to cut 45° for my parquetry designs.” Greg has now built six boards this way. He’s built a fat fish with his youngest son Matt, who is 16. “I simply watched over him to make sure he didn’t cut his fingers off but he pretty much did the whole thing himself.” Greg has built a double-ender kite board for his next oldest son Andrew and his next project is now near complete - a single fin pintail complete with Rising Sun design for his eldest son Josh modeled off an old favourite San Juan board of Greg’s. As for how the boards perform out in the water? “They are slightly heavier than a foam board but not by much, maybe ½ kilo. I figure I could eat a pizza, have some beers and put on that much weight. Does it really make that much difference? “The feel of the board on the water is something else. Because they’re made of tensioned timber and are hollow, they sing like an acoustic guitar. You’re essentially surfing a soundboard. They have a lot of character and are a lot of fun to surf.” “You get a lot of comments from people saying, ‘You aren’t going to put that in the water? It’s too nice.’ But there is no need to be too concerned about getting these boards dinged. They are more sturdy than a standard fibreglass board. jan/feb 2012
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MAIN:Tod and Tim with the Wood Biscuit and INSET: The creamy centre
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A kit board is a great way to experience wooden board building
PART FIVE: TOD DEXTER
FOLLOWING
THE GRAIN
BISCUIT IN A BOX
WHEN GRAIN RECENTLY PARTNERED WITH AL MERRICK ON THE RELEASE OF THE CHANNEL ISLANDS WOOD BISCUIT SURFBOARD KIT, TOD DEXTER KNEW IT WOULD BE THE PERFECT BOARD FOR HIS SON.
WHAT INSPIRED THE BUILD?
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0403 354 716
Open every day for Breakfast, lunch and Dinner Tapas till late every night.
I had built a strip plank kayak the previous winter and needed a new project. In the 80s I shaped and glassed an 8’ sailboard from foam and the desire to do it again out of wood has been lingering since then. My son Tim graduated from Uni this last year, so I decided to build him a board as a graduation present. Cape Boat Works had Grain Kits, so it was an easy decision to make - a CI Biscuit for the small summer surf we get down here in Victoria.
HOW LONG DID IT TAKE?
Overall, about 3 months but probably about 50 hours of construction time.
Fresh local produce. Mediterranean/Spanish influence with a great cocktail bar and wine list.
HIGHLIGHTS & CHALLENGES
Having built the kayak I was well prepared, but there were a few new challenges. I’ve always liked the lines and shapes of surfboards, and to be able to create one out of timber was particularly
satisfying. So much so that I have ordered an 8ft mini mal kit for myself and have plans to design and construct a 6’1” performance board for my son. He also wants an 8’6” gun for big days on the south coast of Victoria.
SO, HOW DOES IT GO?
Tim says: “My initial fears of a sluggish log were thrown out the window after a first surf in small, 1-2ft beachbreaks. Whilst the ‘fishy’ board shape lends itself towards crappy summer waves, the wood construction creates less flex. From this, it feels like the board has more drive than it should, considering the shape. “In waves that the board’s intended for, it responds in a drivey and loose way. It’s fun and perfect for flying over fat sections. The characteristics of less flex and more drive are even more prominent when wave heights increase. In fact, the board seems to come to life with a bit more wave-power behind it. The drive into and out of turns is amazing.”
ope so... Inspired? We h Cnr Lawson & Jonson, Byron Bay 02 6680 9666 www.balcony.com.au 64
n board Building yur ow rding. If wa re ly is incredib red it... ide you’ve ever cons d us the sen nd A it. Just do building! photos. Happy
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MAIN:Tod and Tim with the Wood Biscuit and INSET: The creamy centre
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P A R T
F I V E :
BACK
G O I N G
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TO NATURE
THE S HA P E-OF F
ave Mark vs. D
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LATEST: PROJECTS DAVE: Now before you get started with the ‘you have seen it all before’ routine and that the idea of shaping an alaia is not original, let me just say, this is different. Sure other guys and girls have made alaias before but in the spirit of our ‘projects’ edition, Mark and I had to make something. Having already completely mastered the art of shaping a standard PU board, with the mighty Stumpy Duck revolutionising the world of surfboard design, it was time to make something different… so we thought about an ark. After all, Queensland had so much rain last summer a watercraft such as this was no doubt going to come in handy in the near future. However considering how much time the ark was going to take, we decided to make alaias instead. Now this was not some spiritually enlightening experience where we all smoked sinsemilla from the chalice of love and sipped herbal infused chai tea while incense burned in the background. There was no positive karma experience, it was outright bloody warfare. It was the skill of my bare hands pitted against the clumsy fingers of my somewhat challenged South African associate.
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Our benchmark... Some freshly oiled Surfing s Green Alaia
‘TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE D-DAY (DESIGN DAY) DAVE: I admit I was nervous. I felt a little like Rocky Balboa before the big fight. I had put an enormous amount of pressure on myself knowing the immense design talent I possessed. The contest was mine to lose and Mark’s to win. Other thoughts kept entering my head as well, further clouding my judgement. When shaping the board could I manage to pull off one of those cool ‘blue-steel’ Derek Zoolander model poses? Would my alaia design be trendy enough for the boys at the Sugar Mill to stock in their store?
PLAN SHAPE So what was I after with regards to my design? To be honest, I really found settling on a certain design for my alaia a bit of challenge. I mean I had set the benchmark so high with my first board, The Stumpy Duck, that it was unnerving. You know, could I come up with yet another revolution in shaping design? For Mark, it was obviously less daunting. I mean his main challenge was just making a thing that floated. And let’s face it, driftwood floats. But I digress.
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I decided to stray from traditional Hawaiian plan shapes. After all, what if the ancient Hawaiians were wrong? Sure they invented a lot of surfing stuff but they can’t always be right. Or can they... So I thought of something inspired a little more by me, with say, a big fat arse. Why not throw in a bit of the McCoy Lazor Zap design theory, a bit of crazy cat Glen Cat Collins teaspoon theory and some elements from the alaia king himself Tom Wegener with regards to the nose and there we have it – a very schizophrenic board. Ultimately, what I wanted to achieve was a board that I could perform 360° spins with and ride both ways, much the same as a snowboard. In essence I wanted to shape a double-ender or what is commonly referred to by masters of the wood as a ‘peanut’ model. So basically the inspiration for my design was Mark’s brain.
QUESTIONS What if the arse of the board is too fat? They say if it is too wide on an alaia it will wildly slide out everywhere. What if the nose is too narrow. If it is, I will have no paddle power and that’s a problem considering there is less than an inch of wood to float me. I considered what problems I may encounter with the plan shape but determined that surely my innate finless surfing skills will counter any such technical flaws and if the design really sucks, I can always shave some unnecessary width. After all the board is made from wood. If it is too narrow, it is not as if I can stick the wood back on.
THE VENUE We decided our battle would take place at the home of Dave - for clarity in this story to be known as Dave #2 - and Nicola O’Reilly of Surfing Green. These guys carry every environmentally-friendly bit of surf gear you can imagine from fins and board bags through to alaias... and aside from that, they were the only ones who would have us. Let it begin...
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LATEST: PROJECTS
2.
DA Y O NE DAVE: When it came to shaping an alaia, I honestly thought we would be there a couple of hours and be surfing later that afternoon. What we experienced was a hell of a lot of hard work. Day one certainly confirmed a few things in my mind: 1. I am crap with my hands. 2. I should not be allowed anywhere near power tools. 1.
3. Mark sucks 4. J ust maybe my poor form and skills may lead to an accidental discovery in alaia design
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Cutting out the plan shape wasn’t too hard but scooping out the teaspoon from the bottom of the blank was a nightmare. I abandoned all power tools because I could see myself accidentally shaving away my board so I took to painstakingly hacking a deep uneven canyon by hand. Many blisters later the efforts of my hard labour unearthed…. a piece of crud. MARK: It’s been good to see the terrified look in Dave’s eyes today. After all the bluster, pregame taunts and early sledging, the wheels have fallen off as he creates the world’s shallowest fruit bowl. As far as my design goes, other than a little indecision on the depth of the tail, all has worked out well really well so far. Working with wood is so much easier on the senses than foam and Paulownia is a really friendly wood to work with. The rocket takes shape.
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1 - 4: Drawing our plan shape onto the blanks 5 - 6: Cutting the plan shape out with an electronic jig 7- 9: Draw on your rail bands and take to it with a sander jan/feb 2012
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DAVE: Well, it surely couldn’t get any worse than day one. Mark was laughing. He was well and truly in the box seat and my dugout canoe looked no better than the day before. I was hoping I could redeem myself or at least finish something with some semblance of an alaia. I was determined to get ‘my eye in’ and by goodness, for some reason it all clicked. What I had learnt from my first shaping experience all came flooding back. I was in the zone and Mark was back on the ropes.
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Hand sanding suited me way more than the planer and allowed me to discover my zen or whatever it is called. I even had my ‘blue-steel’ gaze down pat. I gently and gradually brought my board back to life. I was in a state of shock. Unbelievably at the end of the day it actually looked pretty bloody good.
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MARK: With rough-shaped blanks waiting, we got stuck into the sanding for the day. As Dave is challenged by any tool more complicated than a rock or a stick, he keeps hand-sanding, while I opt for the noisier, yet quicker, electric version.
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Paying extra special attention to just how soft this wood is, I work through the grades of sandpaper to get a remarkably smooth finish and a not-too-shabby concave.
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A bit of hand sanding on the rails later and we grab a beer while we wait for Captain Clumsy to finish. He’s pretending to look for bumps he can’t really see, as he rounds his Peanut’s tail with a small planer.
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Yes, Dave’s pre-school-skill wood reduction project is coming along nicely. If he keeps going, he’ll only have a Pauwlonia skateboard deck left. His saving grace is his cheating - getting Dave #2 to do his work for him. Slacker. Mercifully, he finally stops and we move onto the big, scary router which is going to make holes in our fantastical creations to fit a leash plug. ‘Leash plug?!’ the purists scoff! Damn straight. When you’re as bad a swimmer as I am, that ‘kook cord’ is your best friend.
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LATEST: PROJECTS
DA Y TWO
Ever the bandwagon-hopper, Dave decides he wants one too. After a little demo, the router turns out to be not so scary and Dave #2 helps us both by setting the plugs with Epoxy. 13.
Our work is done for the day.
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10: Draw on your rail bands and take to it with a sander 11 - 12: Carving our concaves 13: Shaping the nose (Mark has a big one) 14 - 15: Finishing touches sanding 40 grit, 80, 120... 16: Shaping the tail on the peanut with a small planer 17: Setting the plug with epoxy jan/feb 2012
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19.
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DAVE: Righto. I looked at my alaia and wondered how in hell I had got away with that one. I mean, it didn’t look half bad and I was in with a fighting chance against the South African. Now the artwork. This is where I struggled in the fibreglass board challenge (see smorgasboarder #4). After all, Mark is a graphic designer/ artist - I am neither. Anyhow, thank goodness I’m comfortable with the concept of cheating, so I promptly briefed my kids - who can draw... I found the design I was after on the internet. I printed it and the kids traced it (hey, I said I was comfortable with the concept of cheating.) They transferred it onto the board with pencil and I took to it with what I think was a soldering iron (I am not into this technical jargon). It was family bonding stuff. The finishing touch, a nose dip of Blue Loo. That’s right, toilet cleaner (thanks Simon Skerry.) Tip - You need to seal the Blue Loo artwork with either a marine or polyurethane varnish, as it will be literally flushed away by the surf. As I would later find out. Kind of makes sense really.
21. Laser engraving by Dean at iburnthings.com
The end result was... It looked bloody magnificent. The kids and I agreed that Mark was rooted. I promptly took a photo of the board and sent it to Mark to taunt him.
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MARK: I had been pretty cocky and confident that I was doing okay. I took my eye off the ball for a minute and Dave gazumps me with getting his kids to do it. Seriously?! I’m stuffed... My own artwork will be irrelevant now, because I can’t beat the sentiment and I can’t get my own littlies onto the job because the idea’s taken. I’m no copycat. After a lot of quiet sweat and consideration, pondering excuses like a vague, minimalist rationale that may allow me to get away with no artwork at all, I finally realise I need to go as far opposite as I can. Bring on technology! A friend, Dean Slockee, happens to own an industrial laser engraving machine and agrees to take on the task of burning something witty into the wood for me. Thanks to one large machine whizzing away, I was soon the owner of a cool engraving of the logo HMS PFD... His Majesty’s Surfboard the Personal Floatation Device.
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OIL UP DAVE: A 50/50 ratio mix of Linseed Oil and Gum Turpentine to ensure maximum penetration and water protection. Paint on, wipe of excess after half an hour, wait 12 hours, apply the next coat. You then proceed with further coats reducing the Gum Turps percentage each time. I decided it was family bonding time again so all four of us took to the task at hand. Liquid mixture sprayed everywhere from wayward brushes. At the finish the board was good but I felt like a corner shop kebab. This baby was now ready to surf.
“This baby was now f” ready to sur 23.
19: A hairy man with big cutlery 20: Crisp lines on the test piece of MDF, as technology meets ancient craft... 21: Fire the... “lay-zer” 22: Oiling the boards with the help of the Swan clan. 23: The final craft jan/feb 2012
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LATEST: PROJECTS
TEST DAY
Given I was still a cripple because of my injury and couldn’t surf, and Mark can’t surf, it was up to Dave #2 from Surfing Green to give the boards a test run. Nic and the kids were also there to judge the artwork on the boards. All disciplines formed part of our competition.
ARTWORK SCORE
PADDLE POWER
NIC: “Given my love of all things symmetrical, Mark’s the winner hands down. Mark’s a 9. You (Dave) are a 7.”
DAVE #2: “Mark’s board is easier to paddle because it has a bit more length. And your style of board tends to slide around and spin under you.”
DAVE: In fairness it was a terribly hot day and Nic was obviously feeling the affects of sun stroke. DAVE #2: “I have named yours the Paddlepop Stick’ and Mark’s the ‘Money Clip’. I must say I like a curve instead of a straight line. So I would have to say ‘The Paddlepop stick’. “Also, because it’s handmade, you know. Machine designs are not quite the go on alaias. Plus your design features King Neptune, ruler of the sea. You can’t go past that.” MARK: That is because I am a machine. DAVE: Dave #2 makes a fair point and I must say I agree. Mark might as well have machine-shaped his blank as well. MARK: And as to your Peanut... with Blue Loo on it. I’m sure I’m not the only one who sees the irony of the peanut/loo connection here. Hilarious, my friend. I do believe that might have been a subconscious admission of defeat.
DAVE: Fair point, Dave #2, but I had accounted for our test pilot to have a little more friggin’ skill. Of course it’s difficult! This board was made for pros, you kook.
“Nobody doesn’t like peanuts” Dave
MARK: Dave #2, you are a champion and truly know your stuff. I have often been told that the extra length is a bonus. I am so happy and humbled to have been judged by such an adept rider and proficient surfer.
THE RIDE SCORE DAVE #2: “I would say I probably got better waves on Mark’s, but I liked the feel of your one. I have used boards like yours before and I prefer that shape, but today I think I got a couple of better waves on Mark’s one.” DAVE: That’s good Dave #2 but to be honest I don’t really trust your comments anyway. My thoughts on the conditions for our test day was that the surf was crap and as such rendered judging of each board’s glide inconclusive. Therefore there will be a rematch. To be continued... MARK: I appreciate your sensitive response, Dave #2. I know how hard it is to be blunt when Dave’s bottom lip is wobbling and little tears are welling in his eyes.
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ACROSS: Dave #2 and Nic judge the artwork.LEFT: Dave #2 hangs his head in shame having to carry the peanut in public. BELOW: Rocket ride, even on tiny dribblers. True art, true craftsmanship of the HMS PFD.
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150 Main Road, Toukley 02 4397 1092 And there you have it dear readers, another inconclusive and incredibly biased end to a very enjoyable process. Building your own board is just an amazing experience, no matter how much heckling is involved along the way. We hope you find some inspiration within these pages to plan your own project very soon.
THANK YOU
A big thanks to Dave and Nicola O’Reilly for welcoming us into their home and shaping bay, putting up with our antics and sharing knowledge of shaping alaias and other various tricks of the trade. It’s greatly appreciated.
surfinggreen.com.au
FACTS AND TIPS: Shaping kit - $169 for a blank, leash plug and shaping manual. Gum Turpentine and Linseed Oil will set you back a couple of bucks but should last six months or so. DAVE #2’ ADVICE: There is lot of satisfaction in making something out of wood, no matter what it is. If you make a surfboard and you can surf it, it’s even better. MARK’S ADVICE: Don’t ever plan to do anything with someone with a nasty competitive streak like Dave #1. Drying time: After oiling your board give it a week to dry otherwise she is a bit slippery. Maintenance: After 4 or 5 surfs give the board a light sand with 120 grit and then re-oil it. Those interested in taking an alaia shaping course can contact Dave and Nic at nicola@surfinggreen.com.au
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LATEST: IMAGES
CLARRIE OF THE COAL COAST “It doesn’t get much better than this. The ENE swell with westerly wind combo sets much of the Coal Coast alight.”
A portfolio of photography by Wollongong’s Clarrie Bouma WORDS: BEN HORVATH
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The name Clarrie Bouma rolls off the tongue sounding like an unusual, high-brow, name from years past. You could be forgiven for conjuring up visions of a greying Dutch explorer or English prep school teacher rather than a Sandon Point surf photographer. Clarrie as an individual however, defies such stereotypes. While he’s well-educated, his vernacular is more colloquial than campus, his threads more flanno than formal. The adage that you are a product of your environment certainly applies. Clarrie is renowned for calling it as he sees it, yet at the same time he is approachable, hard working and down to earth - like most of his contemporaries from The Gong. “Standing on the beach or headland shooting surfing when it’s pumping is a fantastic way to spend my time,” says the 61-year-old snapper, who still has as much passion for the surf at Sandon Point as ever before. “I started surfing in 1962 on a second hand 9’2” Jackson and Cansdell. I’ve been in bands; played music professionally, studied, taught, and nowadays nothing gives me more job satisfaction than shooting surfing in my local area.” Educated in Wollongong, Clarrie then spent a year in the Australian Army as a conscript at the tail end of the Vietnam War. After the war he found himself heading overseas on an extended overland journey through Asia, the Middle East, Europe and North Africa for two years. When Clarrie eventually returned to The Gong from his rite of passage tour, he nailed down a real job teaching PE, becoming Sports Master at Edmund Rice College for six years, while at the same time started a career in music in an exotically titled band Ersatz Kitsch. He has played music professionally both in bands and as a solo musician since. jan/feb 2012
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LATEST: IMAGES “There was a ‘discussion’ after this wave.”
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“AIM TO ENJOY YOURSELF, NOT TO MAKE A LIVING FROM IT.” CLARRIE, ON PHOTOGRAPHING SURFING
Ever busy, Clarrie returned to Wollongong University completing a Bachelor of Arts degree majoring in Geography. He scored six distinctions and six high distinctions, before becoming a tutor in the Geography Department at Wollongong University whilst majoring in Coastal Geomorphology, so it should come as no surprise that these days Clarrie literally spends much of his time exploring northern Wollongong coastal geography, camera in hand documenting all the action whenever there are waves. Clarrie’s Coal Coast exploration is an almost daily ritual. He rises early, scoping his favourite surf forecasting websites and cams. If there’s swell, he drives around surveying the surf, before settling on a suitable location to shoot. If a mate or local legend texts or rings through a tip off, he may ponder a short drive up or down the coast to shoot wherever it is
pumping, but most days it’s a case of heading straight down to his beloved local – Sandon Point, barely 800 metres from the family home. For the benefit of interstate readers or those unfamiliar with Sandon, The Point is one of, if not the most consistent, right point break on the east coast of Australia. Despite Sandon’s revered status as a class wave, in the seventies, eighties and nineties travelling surfers were always hesitant to visit. “The Jetty” as it was affectionately known by older locals was virtually a visitors no-go zone. The Point crew maintained a fierce reputation as being the most proud, protective, locals on the coast. Clarrie’s caper - standing patiently on the rock platform or headland taking photos and video footage of all and sundry - is a sign of the changing times. It’s unimaginable at old Sandon, but attitudes change, and so too does technology. His work is based on the premise that every surfer who paddles out into the line up would love to see an image or footage of themselves surfing. Documenting this love, he has released nine local DVDs and catalogued thousands upon thousands of still images. Clarrie says: “I figure I am a pretty normal person in the sense that I have always appreciated all the images I have of myself participating in a variety of activities.” The success and continued growth of Clarrie’s website sandonpointphotos.com vindicates his hunch.To give you some idea of sandonpointphotos.com popularity, site traffic peaked in May 2010 with 1.3 million hits for that month, with over 10,000 unique views. “Surfers come up to me on a daily basis and ask me who I’m shooting?” he says with a smile. “I take great pleasure telling them I shoot anyone who takes off on a good wave.” jan/feb 2012
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LATEST: IMAGES
“ SPEND YOUR MONEY ON ONE OR MORE HIGH QUALITY LENSES” CLARRIE, ON EQUIPMENT
Rainbow at Sandon Point
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THE STILLS QUIVER Clarrie uses Sony A700 DSLR camera bodies with quality lenses. Minolta 600 mm f4 G Series lens Sony 300 mm f2.8 G Series lens Minolta 1.4 X and 2 X G Series convertors Minolta 80 – 200 mm f2.8 G Series lens Minolta 50 mm f1.7 lens Minolta 28 mm f2.8 lens Carl Zeiss 16 – 80 mm f3.5 lens Sigma 10 -20 mm f3.5 lens
THE VIDEO QUIVER Sony HDR FX1000 camera, and also a Sony SLT A77 camera. Clarrie prefers a dedicated video camera like the HDR FX1000 due to the ergonomics of the unit. Clarrie says, “The G Series 20X zoom lens on the FX1000 does a great job and zooming and panning is so much easier. The day will come when the two formats can be combined into one unit and achieve the desired high quality results on a regular basis. It is there already for anything up to 200mm lenses, but beyond that, actually handing a DSLR with a 600 mm lens attached as a video camera is challenging to say the least.”
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“ ALWAYS SHOOT IN RAW. THE JPG FORMAT HAS ITS PLACE BUT IS BASICALLY GARBAGE Some things just shouldn’t get wet.
A LEGACY OF A DIFFERENT ERA WHEN COMPUTERS AND INTERNET WERE MUCH SLOWER.” CLARRIE, ON TIPS FOR NEW PHOTOGRAPHERS
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“In a sense I shoot the wave first and the surfer who happens to be on that wave fills in the picture.” Clarrie generally shoots between Woonona and Stanwell Park, an area blessed with a myriad of quality reefs, pointbreaks, bombies and beachies that work under a variety of conditions. “I personally prefer pulled back surfing photos that allow you to see both the surfer and the wave, as opposed to photos that just show the surfer. Surfing mags seem to be overflowing with tightly cropped close up images of sponsored surfers doing critical moves. Of course those frames have their place, but more diversity would be cool.“ Clarrie’s library of local surfing images fills over 10 terabytes of hard disk space. Local surfers now posses well over a thousand high quality images of themselves surfing courtesy of Clarrie’s dedication - everyday Coal Coast surfers who would otherwise never have seen any decent footage of themselves now have high quality enlargements of themselves hanging up on their walls, or even a personal video to enjoy forever. “My favourite images are classic line up shots with three or more waves, ideally with surfers on them and some sort of landform somewhere in the picture,” Clarrie says. “I suppose that personal preference reflects my love of nature and the environment. My journeys to over 60 countries have always been to destinations where there are either waves or mountains.” One can’t put a price on how valuable such photos or footage is. When you consider how much time an average surfer puts into his or her passionate pursuit and rarely gets to see themselves in action, you can see how important a role Clarrie now plays in the local community. Not only is he making hundreds of surfers happy, the job satisfaction and working conditions are pretty hard to match.
MORE OF CLARRIE’S WORK Peru Aventura A
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Visit his website, www.sandonpointphotos.com where you can browse through album after album of imagery and order photos to be printed to canvas. You can also purchase DVDs for only $10 or his 2012 surf calendar for only $30.
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“CAUGHT INSIDE may be the world’s first great surfie thriller..” - THE AUSTRALIAN “This is De Niro in RAGING BULL or Mitchum in CAPE FEAR” - ClNEMATICAL “...a thrilling experience indeed” - FILMINK • Audio commentary with Director Adam Blaiklock and Ben Oxenbould. • Interviews with cast and crew and much more...
CATCH IT ON DVD, FEBRUARY 2012 FROM UMBRELLA ENTERTAINMENT www.umbrellaent.com.au
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TRAVEL: INDO TRIP
RE-STOKE
THE FIRE
The one common bond that surfers all over the world have is the sense of adventure, the goal to surf a new wave, the excitement of finding something new. Whether it’s a trip up or down the coast or the overseas trip only a few of us are able to afford, the sense of adventure lies within us all. Jason Robertson shares his particular adventure with us. WORDS BY JASON ROBERTSON. PHOTOS BY JASON ROBERTSON & LOCAL SURF GUIDE AND RIPPER NANA
“...THE SUN CAME OUT, THE WIND TURNED OFFSHORE AND THE WAVES PUMPED”
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THE DREAM
Like so many of you I have done countless trips up and down the east coast of Oz, a little bit of the west and a few trips to the Goldy but had never cracked the overseas frontier. There are so many great overseas options these days but being in my late 30’s and having a family, it’s been a long time since I have been able to get back to my surfing roots and go on a boy’s surf trip. When we finally decided to do the trip, we all agreed to do what we always wanted to do but never had the opportunity to do. We had grown up watching footage of that new Indo wave or guys way out of their comfort zone greeted by the perfect wave. While we’re not in our teens or even our twenties, we still have all the same desires for the unforgettable... So Indo it was.
THE PLAN
Looking through countless options available for our trip, Freeline Indonesian Surf Adventures and their South Sumatran Ombak Indah Losmen deal ticked all our boxes. South Sumatra was the perfect location, still a fairly new frontier, not overly crowded, plenty of adventures to be had and unknown spots to be found - all organised by a professional and friendly company as was evident form the start with Annie - wife of the Freeline co-founder Nev Hines - who made all booking details a breeze.
THE TRIP From Jakarta International, we were transferred onto Bandarlampung
Sumatra, where we were picked up by our drivers. With boards and bags loaded, we settled in for a six-hour road trip to our camp. Adventure we wanted and adventure is what we got. Being my first trip overseas, the road trip to Ombak Indah was an eye opener, by which I mean WIDE open and white-knuckled. Anyone who has experienced Sumatran traffic and the trip I’m talking about will know - imagine six hours at top speed, overtaking on blind corners, squeezing between cars, bikes and trucks moments before head-on collisions, alongside an endless sea of mopeds loaded up with anything from a family of five to boxes full of ducks to drums of fuel.
THE SPOT
We arrived at Ombak Indah late that night. As tired as I was, the first thing I did was wax up, ready for the first surf day of the trip. I must have woken up every half hour or so waiting for first light. It was a rainy day and the surf looked stormy and slightly onshore, but the excitement was running through every one of my senses. We were straight out there after seeing a solid set run the full length of the point. That night, sitting around the dining area with a Bintang in hand, the stories from other travellers started to flow. A guy on his last night there showed us footage of his first day at the point and it looked insane. We all agreed we would be happy if it was only half that good for us. If someone told us then that his footage was only half as good as what we were going to get, we would have never believed it. The next day - and what would turn out to be close to the whole trip - the sun came out, the wind turned offshore and the waves pumped. Almost every day of the 14day trip, you could have surfed three times a day. The surf ranged from 3-8ft (sorry Eddie, I mean 4ft) with slight changes in direction changing the wave slightly. If you could say there was one negative to 3-8ft perfection, it was that a lot of the other breaks in the area only break when it’s too big or too small at the point, but while we spent most of our time at the point, we still got to sample a few other quality waves.
THE GRATITUDE The Sumatran people and the staff at Ombak Indah where
absolutely amazing and we were all humbled by the hospitality shown to us by Annie and her staff. Unfortunately, the week before we arrived the great Nev Hines lost his battle will ill health and passed away. The way his team treated us through our trip in their time of grief would have made him extremely proud and this will be something we will all treasure for the rest of our lives. On behalf of our whole crew I would like to thank Annie, Stu, Nana, Eddie, the whole Freeline crew and the late and great Nev for the trip of a lifetime. It might have taken me 39 years to get my first overseas surf trip but it has rekindled the spirit of surf adventure in me. It won’t be my last.
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R ÉUNI
The wedging reef break at St Pierre provides plenty of opportunity to blow up. With a sharp bottom and a strong current it’s got the ability to kick your ass.
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TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP
INDI A N O C E A N
N O T E S
ION “I’ve heard speak of an island. A difficult to reach, seldom ventured place requiring courage, faith and the ability to remain calm in your own loneliness. Apparently, it’s a mysterious land clouded in danger and a crucible to old cultures. “We don’t have much time, if the waves are good shall we go? “If we choose to, we’ll need to embrace it with open minds, and of course, ride its treacherous waves with no fear. “Sounds intense. We go”. WORDLY-WISE TRAVELLER JAY KILLVAN PAINTS A POETIC PICTURE OF AN AFRICAN ISLE, EAST OF MADAGASCAR AND SOUTH WEST OF MAURITIUS IN THE INDIAN OCEAN. THIS IS REUNION. WORDS AND PHOTOS: JAY KILLVAN jan/feb 2012
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It was one of the shortest conversations on choosing a surf location I’ve ever had, though the anticipation had it feeling as though it’d be one of the longest. The airport terminal is fresh this morning, busy with dizzy people unsure of what to do and nervously shuffling towards departure gates, onwards to transfer, their souls being shipped somewhere else. This adventure fits right in. Winter tarmac in disarray as a Chilean volcano spews forth ash miles high, troubling engines of aircrafts wanting safe passage around the southern latitudes. But not this jet, humming West. The digital portal in the seat back attempts to contain the fury of an island very much alive. A black rock embedded in a sea of mineral blue, complete with voluminous rain, lava and swell, squashed awkwardly into the in-flight video. It was now known that this modest island has a fiery heart and is constantly in motion. A few hours in we’re served a view of our lands red heart and cuisine-like airline food, the captain playing tour guide, hostess playing chef, positions of yogi sutra in tight seats prove testing and damn, a Valium would’ve been a good idea right now. Twelve hours of confined air transfer, it isn’t pretty, though the hostess is.
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Arriving in the dead of night amplified the secrecy. Cool humid air and a red Hawaiian-like soil at Roland Garros airport are small clues heightening the thrill. Driving south was a night rush, crazy mental drivers belting along at ludicrous speeds, on a highway that hung off a cliff face, it takes an effort to maintain concentration. The arduous flight coupled with this manual wagon, its steering wheel flipped to the left side, has entry into this island being testing, almost tricky. Slowing on approach to our supposed accommodation we can hear the ocean, a sonorous roar belted through the still night as we navigated up a steep hillside. The higher we weaved the more savage it became. It was a spook. What lay out there in this black abyss will be revealed in the light of day as the stage for our surfing games. An early darkness held in by the towering extinct volcanic peak of Cirque de Mafate gave time to observe and slowed the morning down, wiping off the initial froth most surf adventures have. We’re on island time now, dawn is very different here, and the eastern sun’s lazy rise ensures the people of the west coast start late, so we should too.
ABOVE: The hike to the top of Piton De La Fourniase, one of the worlds most active volcanoes, is not an easy one, especially in thongs. Looking east into the Indian above the clouds. BELOW: The west coast of the island has no real quality surf, though it does have some amazing natural features. The idyllic Niagara Waterfall. BOTTOM: Reunion Island is a celebration of many things, and it’s the people of this island that make it happen.
Finding Bruno’s surfer’s temple from the Internet wasn’t easy; with foot on ground it was clear why. Hundreds of holiday dwellings lie scattered across the western side of the steep mountain face, all looking private and secluded, hidden away amongst a low lying dark green scrub. His wooden hand shaped two-story home perched up high overlooking the bay at St Leu is simply winning. A Frenchman with a local wife, parasailing gear in the garage, telescopes and huge glass windows - he knows how to live on the water. A view over the broadest scope of Indian Ocean had it floating on the sea and in the clouds. The first sunrays switched on the cobalt blue, with palms filtering the view straight down the barrel of one of the World’s better left-handers, centre stage was revealed. High enough to watch swell lines hit the outside of the reef and refract down the line, close enough to mind-surf the bending walls.
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A stroll through the ambience of the classy coastal town St Gillie had us becoming absorbed, perhaps lost. A small grid of clean streets peppered with the French way and tight with European cars, it could’ve been a summer in Hossegor for all we knew. Cute beach girls with not much on, tourists meandering absently, grommets on a small breakwall right… A real kick. Turning a corner we’re confronted with a streaming mass of people. Noise and energy paint the day in vibrant colour, costumes and smiles become alive in a swirl of expression, the people are about to dance. Anticipation sets the heart racing, screams and jungle beats echo through the laneways and within an hour an exotic parade is happening down main street. Things went from sleepy French to boisterous Brazilian in a blink. The mix of people is broad, they’re celebrating darker days of slavery and pirates, sugar and coffee, rum and revolutions, African, Indian, French, 88
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Surf adventures deliver all kinds of magic; right now it’s under the footsteps of a procession of extravagantly dressed women in costumes, surging through the crowd. Headpieces captivate, alluring are the ornate fabrics and their deep smiles offer an attractive portal into history. Confident men perform supreme displays of coordination and strength, flipping and twisting to loud rhythms from simple taught skins being beaten to hell. Howls and high music like you’ve never heard it, clashing symbols, steel clanging, exhibited by a flamboyant excited people. Carts of curious food and steaming hotplates send fierce clouds of aromatic bliss, the scents of the old world light up a salivating palette. The mass of people in a Carnaval mood wrap up around out of sight, island life is bigger than it seems in the cultural hot pot of this little town. Wandering into such an intimate display of their lives make us feel fortunate, out of respect it is hard to leave. With the swell now smacking the breakwall down in the port, we have to make a choice. Hit that small bar packed with pretty people, or go ride those waves?
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Black intrusive lava headlands and absent lineups played testament to the islands mysterious character. It’s not so much the live coral reefs riddled with urchins that prove testing - it’s the
past and the present activity from toothed beasts in the west coasts marine park. Two months prior to arrival a surfer had been dismembered up the coast at Boucan. A few days ago a bodyboarder was mauled and floated past others in the line up, minus limbs with a stomach, to be stretchered off the beach in a body bag. His soul is not the first, or last that this sea will consume. It isn’t a free ride here. Knowing your maker may lie in the dark blue shadows of the channel continuously haunts the mind, making every surf a nervous one, so you can forgive the local fraternity if they seem a little high-strung. While St Leu is the centerpiece that seems to have avoided fatalities, the immediate path south to St Pierre, which is packed tight with numerous reefs and points that are mostly empty, tells another story. Head north towards l’Hermitage there are more regularly surfed locations though statistically, the water is tainted a darker red. Talking with a slim Madagascan girl, watching a left-hander peel off down the line on a river mouth reef started off like all conversations we’d been having. She believed that the Bulls are the notorious pests of these waters that hunt the fresh waters of the river mouths, where after heavy rain you’ll be surfing alone. It was the first or second topic of conversation with tourists and locals alike, ensuring this surf adventure was plagued with reminders. We found solace riding the portside waves of St Pierre. A high-energy youthful community, where breakdancing, skateboarding and parkour are alive on the streets and high performance surfing is in the water. Watching a group of
European pros working on sponsor photos made it hard to gauge the local talent, as Le Jetty was like most surf locations of the island, clustered packs of surfers paddling over each other hunting set waves. Sessions ranging from overhead oily smooth perfection to summer side-shore mush were great canvases, enabling all types of surfers some breathing space and moments to let the feet dangle.
TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP
Chinese and Madagascan to name a few, simply interpreted as Creole which works just fine right now, this harmony doesn’t seem to care for orientation.
As the sun heads toward the horizon the crowd thins, though with hours left to surf it’s a race against the power of the mind to stay out. Dusk is the time for a higher state of awareness. Play it safe, or paddle out for one more wave?
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Circumnavigating the island took a full day. The south was picturesque, Jurassic, and an abundance of empty waves. The west coast from the south is divided up by lava flows that smoked hot in the morning sun, and stony riverbeds that carry mountain rain seaward in the wet season. Further north, idyllic stretches provide postcard moments but little in the way of surf. The northern tip with murky waters and murkier towns didn’t inspire a surf or a photo, and the surrounds of the countries capital, St Denis, with it’s industrious city hustle, black sand and pebbled beaches, concluded a contrasting collective that had the west coast feeling like the only place to be. The diversity of this trip around the island was closer to experiencing a mission across the world. On this island, you can reach the top of the world. High above the clouds with a full view of the ocean is Piton de la Fournaise, one of the
“It isn’t a free ride here. Knowing your maker may lie in the dark blue shadows of the channel continuously haunts the mind” Dusk sessions, even here in the shorebreak at St Leu, are sketchy moments.
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R ÉUNION
world’s most active volcanos. With an hour drive and a 3-hour hike you can peer into the steaming gateway to hell, unguided. It’s all very intense, consequential if you make a bad decision. The experience of a lifetime requires preparation and a high level of physical fitness - no fakers at 8,600 feet. If you really want to stand on the roof of the world, perhaps get closer to your God, you can do it here.
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The wave data was obvious on the computer, though as I looked at the stretch of reef directly in front of Bruno’s, it was concerning. The ledge on the point was blasting fountains of water a mile high. Triple overhead and stacked to the horizon, it was an awesome display of power. This most recent computer model was indicating waves three times this size for the next coming days. The fetch of this swell charging around South Africa was lengthy - a monstrosity charging our way. Every swell that hit the coast had played true to its digital word, and this 18 second 10- 12ft behemoth wasn’t going to be any different. A local board shaper made it simple. “It’s always like this in winter’. There would be a few days before this new swell would erupt, and with the existing swell still pumping, it provided plenty of time to sample the unique walls of St Leu. At a size it’s washing the kids to the end of the line while the old boys sit super far out, and only the European pros knew where to sit for the thicker inside waves that grind more powerfully through to the inside. Assessing the impending dogleg more accurately and picking off a keg was the key. There is power in the water and in the surfers. A local legend known for enforcement confronted me with garbled English, his name apparently Tarzan. I laughed at his comedic size, a huge man with massive hands gripping the paddle of his SUP craft, waving it in my face. A local supported my chuckle as we both saw his act as a harmless one. An Aussie compatriot was told to f*ck off by a big, burly, bearded Creole giant on the inside, which kept his sessions short. Yet it’s far from the aggressive gladiatorial stadium it was rumoured to be.
Reunion is a French Island, and it feels like that on land. Though in the deep blue its a mysterious and unforgiving domain.
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The outside of the wave is relatively slow for a reef wave, though the dogleg towards the inside delivers the power. Reef surprise boiling in front of you while the lip dances above, waiting to be smashed. After a day
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“After a day of riding this wave the fatigue is revealed through sore hips and legs... It’s a pleasurable pain”
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The golden hour at dusk sees empty waves peel off everywhere. With toothy beasts patrolling these w aters, it wouldn’t matter if was flawless - the line up would still be empty.
TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP
The famous left-hander of St Leu - it’s a canvas open to all types of artists.
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“Closing days the French way is good for morale.” of riding this wave the fatigue is revealed through sore hips and legs, and the back of the calf aching from being spring loaded for 20 seconds at a time. It’s a pleasurable pain. It was the fourth block of cheese and eighth bottle of wine. Closing days the French way is good for morale. Sitting fireside at dusk we watched the new swell march in with a front of low cloud and rain. The sound we’d heard on arrival again made it’s way up into Bruno’s house, and at daybreak a thick haze over St Leu revealed true Indian power. Bombs exploded on the nearby reefs and the swell lines stacked to horizon made it clear the boards in the bag were far too small. The following three days were testing times to be in the hunt for waves. Sets maxed out in the 15ft range, and winds howled offshore. There were no surfers around, and St Leu was an out of control nightmare. Driving the full length of the western side of the island numerous times only fuelled the frustration. With an abundance of swell and no known locations to surf, it became a souring taste by the third day. A ski would’ve been great, so would’ve massive écrous, as any surf was going to be alone. News came that The Cove up towards St Denis was firing, though with a flight to make time was not on our side. St Leu would be the last shot and be the closing chapter. Massive sets washed through and pushed wide off the reef, the line up was empty, and so was the feeling in the pit of the stomach. Having fears ruin an opportunity to close the surfing chapter wasn’t going to happen was it?
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An outpost of forgotten cultures, a full stop in the sea, this is an island where you can simply be yourself. While it’s a land of many things, it’s in the mind where you’ll find challenge and celebration. Towering peaks to drift high, long ocean horizons to sail at peace and broad smiles creating mystery and intrigue to delve into. You’ll take more with you than reef cuts and tanned skin. On Bourbon Island, the Reunion in the sea, you’ll have read many books. Though as you’ll now know, it’s ok to have not finished.
Jay Killvan. www.killvan.com
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TRAVEL: PEOPLE
BUSINESS PROMOTION
WORLDLY WISE
THE KEY TO GETTING THE MOST OUT OF A CHARTERED SURF TRIP IS OBVIOUSLY ENLISTING THE HELP OF SOMEONE WHO KNOWS THE GO. GOOD GUIDE, GOOD TRIP. BAD GUIDE, A WASTE OF MONEY. Let’s face it, if you are going to spend your hard-earned and book a surf travel package to another country, you sure as hell want your money’s worth and to score some cracking waves. With the surf season kicking off in the Maldives in March, World Surfaris would like to introduce you to their team of surf guide professionals in the area, so you know who you’ll be hanging out with when you arrive.
GAVIN & ADRIAN
Ocean Divine (Male Atolls)
YUSREE ‘EASY’
NAHU
Handhu (Outer Atolls, Male and Central Atolls)
Easy by name and easy by nature - YUSREE is a laidback, chilled and committed guide. Making a study of swell charts and gauging your ability early on ‘Easy’ creates crowd-dodging itineraries and his almost supernatural predictions repeatedly land you in dream swell. A local with local knowledge, with Yusree it’s all too ‘Easy’.
RICHARD & AMY
Hudhuranfushi Resort (Male Atoll)
Married in 2009, RICHARD AND AMY KOTCH live a dreamy lifestyle, chasing the southern swells in the Maldives from Apr – Oct and the North swells in Micronesia Nov - Mar. The duo are an unbeatable pair and very handy with a camera snapping at you happily as you surf the best that Hudhuranfushi and surrounding breaks have to offer.
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Ocean Divine is what you’d get if you could float a 5-star world class surf resort. It’s the one vessel which we recommend bringing a nonsurfing partner.
Manta (Male Atolls)
NAHU is another local Maldivian. His innate knowledge of swell directions, tidal behaviour and wind effects on the breaks in the Male Atolls is the result of many years of surfing in the area.
Nahu leaves the crowd behind as he predicts the right spots, days outside of the arrival of the swell. Repeated good feedback has always highlighted Nahu as a real asset to the vessel - the super-comfortable Manta. He’s one of your best mates that you haven’t met yet.
... an Divine The Oce y r u x Serious lu chef, with complete & more se u se as m
GAVIN CLARK is a paramedic for the Billabong team. When he’s not stitching up the pros in Tahiti he’s guiding on the Ocean Divine. Having a western guide that knows the Male region well is real treat. He’ll give you a full rundown on break behaviour and then keep a watchful eye over you. Gavin’s surf guiding fits in perfectly with the Ocean Divine’s once-in-a lifetime experience.
ADRIAN HOWE is an Englishman with an incredible passion for surfing and travel, which he’s done for the past decade. An astute surfguide with attention for detail, he studies the swell models and has intimate knowledge of the Male Atoll breaks. It’s safety first with Adrian, as he ensures you’re well supervised in the line-up. Apart from that, he’s a great guy with a big heart and gets on well with everyone. When he’s not in the Maldives he calls Lennox Heads home.
STUMPY, PLAZO, DAVE & ANDY Handhu-Fahli (Outer Atolls, Male and Central Atolls)
Handhu Fahli is one of the few vessels in the Maldives that offer western guides, all genuinely stoked on getting you the swell of a lifetime. As Aussies they’ll do the best to pick the waves and the breaks that suit your groups expectations. With the Sunshine Coast as home, these guys work on a 6-10 week roster to ensure they don’t burn out.
PETER ‘STUMPY’ WALLACE Veteran surfer and well known Sunshine Coast shaper, Stumpy has enjoyed eight years of surf guiding on Handhu Fahli and is one of the first crew to surf the outer Atolls. He knows the region better than any guide.
GRANT ‘PLAZO’ BANNING started work for World Surfaris in 2000 on Haveyli and treasures his Maldives stint each year. A handy natural footer who likes to pull into hollow end sections on his single fin, Plazo is a waterman who loves surfing, fishing and diving... And hates crowds. He’ll avoid them at all costs and sneak off to some secret spot to max out your surf time.
ANDY SCHWARTZ The grom of our guides and new to the Handhu Fahli as of last season, Andy is a committed and surf focused guide. When he’s not seeing to your every surf need on the Handhu Fahli he’s charging 15ft Shipsterns or guiding in Samoa for the off-season. His knowledge of the Male region is incredible and his enthusiasm for life is infectious. Andy will have you amping for surfing, fishing or just mucking around in general.
DAVE BEASLEY This big, smiley natural footer has been guiding for World Surfaris for the past six seasons. Dave is super surf focused with great knowledge of the Male Atoll breaks. Like all our guides, he avoids crowds. With his very relaxed and friendly manner plus his didge playing skills, Dave is sure to be a highlight of your trip
Now you know the faces and it’s time to discover the places... To plan your next Maldives surf trip, find all the information you need at www.worldsurfaris.com
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NISEK While Australian surfers have descended on Bali in the chase for wave perfection for decades, thanks to the rise in popularity of snowboarding over the last ten years or so, adventure-seeking Aussies are now heading to Japan in the chase for snow perfection too. The Japanese snow season coincides with the Australian summer and for those who are keen to trade their boardies and rashie for a jacket and beanie the rewards can be spectacular.
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EKO WORDS & PHOTOS: GUS BROWN
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Dreaming of white powder...
NISEKO, JAPAN IS ON! JAPAN SN W PACKO AGES FROM $790* info@snowsurftravel.com.au
facebook.com/snowsurftravel Phone 08 8223 5512
SURF SAMOA OR THE MALDIVES FOR $650* Contact us for more details
WWW.SNOWSURFTRAVEL.COM.AU
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TRAVEL: SNOW
THE TRIP BEGINS... With only a few previous snowboarding experiences I headed over to Niseko with my partner and friends in the beginning of the Japanese spring (early March) on the promise of vast snowfields covered in perfect powder. Although Japan has a choice of highly-regarded snowfields, some of my companions had travelled to Niseko the year before and come back with stories of buckets of snow, long uncrowded runs and hospitable locals. This presented as a real opportunity to fulfil my snowboarding dreams.
We arrived on the cusp of the peak season (early February 2011), which represented the beginning of the “Japanese Spring.” Spring is slightly misleading though, as the snow hardly stopped falling and during the two-week trip there was only one mildly warm day where the temperature rose above zero. Perfect.
SAPPORO
NISEKO
WHERE WERE WE On the southwest side of the northern Japanese island of Hokkaido, Niseko is located only 35km from the Sea of Japan, which on a clear day can be seen from the mountain tops.
HOKKAIDO HOKKAIDO HONSHU
JAPAN
Niseko has an average yearly snowfall of about 14m, primarily due to it’s location from which the relatively warm ocean which meets the cool airstreams from Siberia. It has a reputation for some of the finest, driest powder in the world and consistently ranks as one of the top ski resorts in the world.
SHIKOKU KYUSHU
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TOP: Ben and Mick in the gondola chasing first tracks
FAR RIGHT: View of Mt Yoeti
RIGHT: The bar is open
MIDDLE: Tammy cruises along
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TRAVEL: SNOW
STAYING Accommodation options are broad from staying in a Pension (hostel) to a range of high-end hotels and residences. We chose to stay in the main Hirafu area, as it has direct access to the largest of the ski areas also walking access to a range of restaurant and bar options. The closer to the base of the mountains you are, generally the more expensive the accommodation is, however most of your options are within walking distance to the chairlifts.
EATING While we came for the snow, the food definitely represents another great reason to travel to the Japanese snowfields. There are enough dining options within Hirafu village that during our two week stay, we didn’t have to eat at the same establishment twice. The food on offer is very different to our regular staples, with a large variety of vegetables, seafood and meats served in soups and with rice. Mind you, be careful of what you order, as it doesn’t always work out in favour of the western palate - after a big day of skiing, some cold raw mince and noodles topped with a raw egg yolk didn’t quite hit the spot, but hey, that’s part of the experience...
SO? For two weeks of snowboarding in fantastic conditions you can get away with about $5K per person - cheaper or more expensive depending on what your personal preferences are - but hey, snowboarding has never been cheap. I definitely rate myself as an average snowboarder, but I had some of the most exhilarating experiences of my life claiming first tracks in the higher parts of the Hirafu area. Floating on half a metre of powder was a new experience and the combined feelings of weightlessness and speed - what I imagine flight would be like - is a sensation that made the trip to Niseko well worth it. Future trips have a lot to live up to. Continually stoked Ben Hewitt, one of our travelling companions, has been all over the world snowboarding and rates Niseko as his number one destination and the lucky bugger is back again this year!
ETIMAMAY Boiled and salted soya beans that keep the beer tasting great. Chew the bean and spit out the husk, this is the eastern equivalent to the salted peanut. GYOZA A Japanese style dumpling that is boiled then fried and served with a range of dipping sauces.
KNOW
THE NOSH
OKONOMYAKI This is best described as Japanese savoury pancake. Comprising of a batter, and ingredients including cabbage, bacon, mayonnaise and sweet sauce, although there are many variants. SUSHIMI Thinly sliced raw meats.
RAMEN Japanese noodle dish served in a meat or seafood based broth with extras including vegetable, meats, seaweed and tofu. TEPPANYAKI This refers to the process of cooking meats and seafood as well as vegetables on a flat hotplate that is heated over gas. But the cool trick is that it is generally you, the patron that cooks the food. TEMPURA Lightly battered vegetables and seafood that is dipped in sauces. Good stuff! YAKITORI Skewered and grilled meats and seafood.
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HANAZONO This area can be accessed by bus or from the Hirafu area. It’s for the guns and the beginners.
HIRAFU The largest ski field in the Mt Niseko An’nupuri area. Hirafu has enough for everyone with beginner and family areas ranging to advanced runs, which can be accessed close to the 1,308m summit. The mountain is made up of long, clear runs with large areas of trees as you head down the mountain. Night skiing/boarding is also available in this area up until about 9pm at night.
With a massive half-pipe and plenty of big jumps for the risk takers, this is where the hot Japanese boarders hang out. Also on this part of the mountain are some of the longest casual green runs that really give newbies a chance to develop their confidence.
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ANNUPURI
NISEKO VILLAGE Fairly narrow and quite steep, this appeared to be more popular with skiers rather than boarders. Well worth a run down to the imposing looking Hilton building which dominates the landscape.
This was one of our favourite areas, well suited to the beginner and intermediate snowboarder. Serviced by one main gondola that gets you back high on the mountain in one trip, it’s easy to cover plenty of ground boarding for a few hours here. This was also the least crowded of the areas, although overall, crowds were not really an issue at all.
Moving between the different areas can be done by negotiating lifts and traversing the mountains, or by catching the regular resort buses - which are included in ticket prices. Individual lift tickets can be purchased for the Annupuri, Niseko Village, and Grand Hirafu - which includes Hirafu and Hanazono - or alternately, as an all mountain pass, the Niseko United Pass. You’re looking at about $75 for a one-day pass, or less, depending on the number of days you’re staying.
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TRAVEL: SNOW
The Niseko United ski field area is made up of 4 main areas; Hirafu, Niseko Village, Annupuri and Hanazono. The Hirafu area was officially opened as a ski resort in 1961 and due to the consistency of conditions and subsequent popularity has continued to develop into the vast network of lifts and resorts that it is today.
ELSEWHERE If you’re keen to get off the beaten track there are also a range of backcountry boarding experiences that can be undertaken, but it’s important to make use of professional guides when doing so, as the mountain is massive and the snow is deep. Each area has its day, depending on the direction of the wind, but between these areas there’s plenty to explore. Over the two weeks, even though we were finding new runs each day, I’m sure there were plenty left unexplored. jan/feb 2012
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EQUIPMENT
DRINKS
RELAXING
It is cold... Bloody cold, in Niseko... A lot colder than in the Australian snowfields, so make sure you get some high quality gear. The winds on top of the slopes can go right through you and given there is so much powder when you cook it, snow goes everywhere.
Alcohol in general is inexpensive, particularly spirits, which can be purchased at convenience stores for cheaper than duty free prices.
Onsens are popular in Japan and there are many around the area. These are basically bathhouses which utilise the naturally geo-thermally heated, mineral rich waters which permeate from the mountains.
I made the mistake of getting some cheap, fake crap off eBay and paid the price. I eventually had to endure the shame of admitting defeat and heading to one of the snow shops for some replacements. We were advised that generally it’s much cheaper and more sensible to get gear at home.
The main beers include Asashi, Sapporo and Kirin but our choice on tap and in the can was definitely Sapporo. On tap, beer is about $5 for the equivalent of a schooner. The famous rice wine, Saki - which in my assessment tastes similar to fermented urine - is a must try, if only as an exercise in cultural appreciation.
They are the perfect cure to a world of body pains and aches after a big day of boarding. But, it’s important to note that to use these onsens one must be buck-naked...
ABOVE: Pink pants are not only fashionable, but a good safety precaution in the powder
Other recommended alcoholic beverages include Sours (a fruit flavoured spritzer) and any of the countless varieties of peach wine.
RIGHT: A surf shop in the snow... Check out the Gentem Stick Store when in Niseko 104
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JAPAN
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GETTING THERE
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Flights leave from all capital cities to Tokyo. From Tokyo, an internal flight is required to the New Chitose Airport where you can access a shuttle bus to take you to the mountains. The more adventurous and time rich can take a train journey from Tokyo to Sapporo, then to Kutchan which is only a short distance to Niseko. 2011 TOHOKU EARTHQUAKE & TSUNAMI On the second last day of our trip we turned on the television in the hotel room and came across live images of the devastation of the Tsunami. Until that moment we were completely unaware of the events unfolding in the country we were staying. Although high in the mountains and completely safe, the emotions and reality of the unfolding disaster really impacted.
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Some of our travelling companions were in Tokyo and experienced the tremors firsthand. When flying over the Japanese coastline returning to Tokyo there was clear evidence of the devastation which claimed over 18,000 lives from up in the air. The passengers were silent as they stared out the windows, digesting what had occurred below and the impacts on the country and it’s people. It’s important to note that although a relatively small country, the snowfields were completely safe and removed from impact of this disaster. Choosing to travel to Japan can only be of benefit and will help the country in the efforts to try and return to some form of normality.
LINKS For more information and details on the various runs, see the Niseko United Website www.niseko.ne.jp/en/ For great ski holiday packages see: www.snowsurftravel.com.au and www.skijapan.com 106
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CRONU MY HOME TOWN With a different approach to our regular local surf town focus, Ben Horvath gives us his own personal insight into what makes the ‘The Nulla’ tick and the people who make up this tight-knit surf community along with a rundown on the quality breaks in the region. Here is Bate Bay and Beyond. A local perspective of the geography, proximity, politics and people of The Nulla. WRITTEN AND EDITED BY BEN HORVATH
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN
ULLA:
Looking south to Jibbon Head and The Royal National Park from the southern confines of The Kurnell Peninsula at Voodoo. Bate Bay is full of waves, powerful reefbreaks and 5km of beachies. PHOTO: Craig Stroh jan/feb 2012
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THE GOOD “Andy King and I were talking about how many reefs we actually have to surf around Cronulla. We concluded that we don’t know of anywhere in Australia that’s got as many reefs within a 10 km radius. I reckon from Bundeena to Kurnell Point we have a good 15 to 20 quality waves that we hunt down and surf, and that’s not including the beach breaks.” Jeremy Hrbac underground Cronulla goofyfoot charger. Jeremy’s quote highlights the fact that there are literally dozens of hollow reef breaks of consequence in close proximity. Cronulla’s reefs have bred generations of committed, lifelong local surfers who charge. Add the variety of almost 5 km’s of surfable beach breaks, then factor in the beauty of the surrounding waterways and take into account that Cronulla is close enough to the city to be able to afford a cab ride home from a night out in Central Sydney or Kings Cross.
“We’ve Got The Best Of Both Worlds Here” Therein lies the difference between Cronulla and most surf enclaves in Australia. There’s world class waves all within close proximity to the city, airport and a train line. On the other hand at just over 30 clicks from central Sydney, Cronulla is also far enough away to feel relaxed and free. Look south from the beach and all you see is the natural bushland of The Royal National Park. You really can balance the best of both worlds, which is why Cronulla is quite unique. Truth is these days it is pretty urban, but there’s still a hint of the old relaxed coastal town vibe and village atmosphere. It really is a great place for a single surfer or family to live, or visit. A classic Australian suburb steeped in surfing history. Speaking of surfing history, make sure you log onto Chris Stroh’s Cronulla Surfing Museum website. You can read and view pictures of all the names from Cronulla’s decorated past and keep abreast of emerging talent, both contest surfers and local reef charging legends alike. Go to www.cronullasurfingmuseum.com.au. Alternatively for a glossy colour print version of Cronulla’s recent surfing history get your hands on a copy of John Veage’s “Southern Surf” at Jackson Surfboards, Unleash bookstore at Westfield Miranda and Regallo gifts at Woolooware. You can also view the historic Surfing Gallery in Cronulla Mall next to the library, or read info and view similar photos online at: www.sutherlandshire.nsw.gov.au For more general tourism information and things to do at Cronulla and the greater Sutherland Shire go to: www.sutherlandshireaustralia.com.au
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“I love it all, seriously. I’m well aware of the stereotype of living in the Shire bubble, but I wouldn’t have it any other way. The bad points I would say are the traffic in summer and that Voodoo doesn’t break every day.” Blake Johnston, Cronulla Surfing Academy
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN Terapai laying into a cruisy, soul arch bottom turn on an epic Winter’s day at Cronulla Point in June 2011. PHOTO Whittaker/oceanart.com jan/feb 2012
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CRONULLA: MY HOME TOWN
The Bad
The Ugly
It seems like just the other day that I was first introduced to the hike over the vast desert like sand dunes with my older sister’s boyfriend and his buddies at Greenhills. I vividly recall struggling into my steamer before bolting out into perfect empty winter rip bowls on my Hot Buttered single fin. That was back in the early 80s when I was a wide - eyed grommet. These days the dunes are long gone, and work has just started on a new subdivision right where the towering dunes we once trudged over to escape the crowds once lay.
The much publicised ugly racial tensions or so called Cronulla Riots that exploded that sad Sunday back in December 2005 were part urban growing pains, part insular localism, but mostly a wave of antipathy to multiculturism that swept through the burbs during the Howard/Hanson/Bush era. Exacerbated by fear and hostility towards Muslims the political fear campaign whipped up by the talk back shock jocks with their constant rallying against boat people, terrorism and the then long standing State Labour government led by Lakemba based Premier Morris Iemma virtually guaranteed electoral populism at the time.
Everyone who flies into Sydney pretty much zooms straight over the top off Kurnell - the birthplace of the nation, Captain Cook’s original invading/settling place. I must admit that whenever I jet over the top, I can’t help but flash on how ironic it is that the very things that originally attracted Cook to land just north of The Nulla – like the natural beauty of the foreshore, the safety of the sheltered mooring, and the abundance of fish and wildlife are barely recognisable today.
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In fact against the modern backdrop of raped sand dunes, the oil refinery, desalination plant and associated industrial pollution, most believe the local council and various state governments have a lot to answer for, but I digress. “The one and only gripe I have about Cronulla is the people responsible for raping our sand hills should be flogged and banished for life. When we were grommets we always had sick rip bowls and banks because of the dunes.” Howie, Triple Bull/Cronulla Surf Design
That sad, explosion of alcoholism, poor policing and confused flag waving patriotism mostly from day trippers did taint Cronulla’s reputation politically, financially and socially for several years. It hurt innocent local businesses, real estate prices and even kept general beach going visitor numbers down for a year or two.
Bright Future In hindsight the Cronulla community learnt that cultural interaction can generate frictions: Communities can and do learn from history regarding what sociologists call ‘bridging social capital’, that underpinning of trust between communities that forms the basis for productive diversity, or they can choose not to learn and suffer the consequences. In Cronulla’s case, signs of positive change are highly visible. Cronulla is rapidly developing into a more
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I’m not saying there is anything bad about Andy King’s nice pit behind the pools, but the industrial backround the dunes once blocked sure ain’t so pretty. PHOTO Craig Stroh.
Council maintenance of The Wall in 2008 cost millions. The sand slug will help protect The Wall and improve the waves. PHOTO Horvath.
tolerant, multicultural suburb with a more diverse array of cafes and restaurants. Equally encouraging are signs that visiting day trippers seem more respectful of the local environment and the local community. real estate prices are again on the rise and comparable to the northern beaches. What went down those crazy few days back in 05 really could have happened anywhere – during the ugly politics of that era, turns out most of the protagonists caught the train to town that day!
A Valued Resource In 2008, the Cronulla surfing fraternity enjoyed a good news story. Cronulla was named a National Surfing Reserve. Bate Bays iconic coastline encompassing seven unique surf spots known to local surfers as Sandshoes, Shark Island, Cronulla Point, North Cronulla, Greenhill’s, Merries Reef and Voodoo were recognised and will be protected. Cronulla joined other iconic Australian surf spots like Bells Beach, Angourie, Lennox Head, Crescent Head, Maroubra, North Narrabeen, Margaret River and Kalbarri on the revered list. For more on the declaration of the Cronulla surfing reserve visit the National Surfing Reserves website at www.surfingreserves.org
Sand Slug After a big storm swell Cronulla’s beaches can often be left devoid of sand, particularly in front of The Wall. In the last decade or so Sutherland Shire Council have spent millions on maintaining both the structure of The Seawall and replenishing sand after storms. Andrew Pitt - a surfing reef architect - organised a local Bate Bay Sand Placement Committee to consult with council back in 2010. The committee - “Dippy” Depena, Brad Whittaker, John Veage, Paul “Tommy” Tyler and I decided that when council next dredges nearby Port Hacking to clear boating channels the sand shouldn’t just be dumped randomly off North Cronulla Beach. As local surfers we viewed such practices as a missed opportunity. In early 2012 the sand from the Port Hacking dredge will be carefully placed to form what Andrew calls a ‘Sand Slug.’ Andrew said, “The sand will be dumped in water between four and eight metres deep to form a two hectare sand slug about 250-400 metres offshore. The sand slug should improve surfing opportunities inshore by inducing peaks instead of closeouts.” For more on Andrew’s excellent idea go to his website www.surfingramps.com.au
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN Joes Milkbar at The Alley was an epic old hang and meeting place. Cronulla Boardriders crew chilling outside Joes back in 92. - Photo Veage
Cronulla’s Colourful Past And Strong Club Culture Generations of grommets have been surfing in and around Bate Bay since 1914, when Hawaiian Olympic swimming champion Duke Kahanamoko introduced his longboard to an enthusiastic swimming public. The fascination with surfing continued to grow, spurred on by the Californians in the 1950s when they brought their short Malibu boards to Cronulla. The new boards were embraced by the members of the surf clubs along the Cronulla beaches and a Sutherland Shire surfing culture was born. Bounded on three sides by water Cronulla was fairly isolated with travel in and out of the area fairly difficult prior to the opening of Captain Cook Bridge in the sixties. Hot summer weekends in the fifties and early sixties would bring thousands of beachgoers to Cronulla by train and of course they still do. Long time local and Cronulla Surf School owner Mark Aprilovic said, “Beach culture has always been part of Cronulla’s heritage and is deeply entrenched in the make-up of its people and traditions.” In the 50s Surf Carnivals included Malibu boardriding events and the late Bobby Brown, a member of Wanda Surf Club started winning everything.
Within a few years Malibu riders split from the surf clubs and boardriders clubs began to appear. The original Cronulla Boardriders Club was established in the early sixties, with surfers such as Ken Williams, Brian Jackson, Terry Tumeth and Frank Latta being members. The Club was very successful with a huge membership and survived until 1966. According to club historian Larry Beaver the ferry cruise organised by the club turned out to be a pretty wild night. Brian (Jacko) Jackson hit the water even before the ferry had left the wharf. Apparently the aftermath of the ferry cruise was what brought the club down. The late Keith Paul was on that ferry cruise. Keith was just one of many top surfers of those days that had moved to Cronulla. Graham Black, Peter Townsend and Michael Peterson all spent lengthy periods surfing in and around Cronulla as did Martin Potter in the 80s. Bobby Brown was a member of the elite Windansea Club and his younger brother Terry, who had also performed well in the Surf Club events, joined Wanda Beach Boardriders Club. WBBR as it was known was formed in 1965 and survived officially until the mid 70s, however past members will argue that the club is still alive in spirit.
After Cronulla Boardriders folded it didn’t take long for a new club to be formed. Heaps of good surfers in that period lived in the nearby St George area, north of Botany Bay - Captain Cook Bridge had opened. The new club was named St. George Boardriders Club. A lot of Cronulla surfers followed the St. George Rugby League team back then, prior to the Sharks formation. St George was a very strong club; however by 1972 there was something like seven boardriders clubs in Cronulla. Most of them folded during the mid to late 70s. In 1978 a new Cronulla Boardriders Club was established. This club, known as the Cronulla Sharks has been going ever since and is one of the strongest shortboard clubs in the country. 1999 world champion Mark Occhilupo is the most famous member of the Sharks and Occy still occasionally returns to the Nulla to have a surf with the club. A year or two later a second strong shortboard club was formed – Elouera Boardriders Club or EBC. According to current club president Paul ‘Chook’ Holbrook EBC’s most famous son Glen ‘Ballboy’ Pringle has won 10 club titles, several Aussie Titles and had a brief, but successful stint on the ASP world tour. EBC is arguably just as strong as Cronulla these days and the friendly
rivalry between the two is legendary in these parts. The annual King Of The Beach interclub comp sponsored by Triple Bull is always won by either EBC or Cronulla Sharks. Throughout the seventies and early eighty’s a few mals were still being ridden. In 1984 a Cronulla mal rider named Dave Ryan won the Byron Bay Malibu Classic from a field of 96. The final was a tough one with John Giles and Rusty Miller finishing second and third respectively. At the presentation Dave pledged that he would start up a Malibu Club in Cronulla on his return. Later that year in the spring, the Southside Malibu Boardriders Club was born. Within 3 months the club had about 30 keen members. Luke Streater, Paul Lawson and Paul Van Dam were original members and are still members today. Photographer Tim Vanderlaan was an early member of the club as was Dave Wilson and son Dane. Initial sponsors were most notably Jackson Surfboards and Malibu Rum. Jackson Surfboards are still a major sponsor of the club today. Southside Malibu Club Cronulla Inc. now has over 100 members.
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Michael Mackie was equally at home in the tube at Shark Island or blazing on the beaches before he moved down south to Ulludulla. PHOTO Chris Stroh cronullasurfmuseum.com.au
The Surfing Fraternity Cronulla surfers are generally well travelled – honed on powerful reefbreaks, most are competent tube riders, but are equally adept in mushy beachies and quite competitive due to the historically strong boardriding club culture. In 2012 Cronulla is currently home to eight boardriding clubs - Cronulla Sharks, EBC – Elouera Boardriders Club, Cronulla Point, Cronulla Christian Surfers, Sandshoes, Cronulla Girls, Southside Malibu and North Cronulla Juniors. Add Cronulla SUP, East Coast SUP and Alliance SUP, three major surf schools – Cronulla Surf School, Cronulla Surfing Academy and Sutherland Shire Standup Paddle School, plus the strong bodyboarding community and it can seem like there’s a junior, club, team, longboard, pro am or surf school lesson on every second bank some weekends, not to mention the regular surf club carnivals, nippers and the like. Somehow though there are enough waves to go around, and generally everyone respects each other and gets along well. The three strongest clubs have embraced social media. Cronulla Sharks have a facebook page www. facebook.com/people/Cronulla-SharksBoardriders/754069144. Elouera – ebcsurf.com.au and Southside Malibu Club – www.southsidemalibu.com.au Everyone has heard of Cronulla’s most famous competitive surfers – names like Bobby Brown, Jim Banks, Mark Occhilupo, Gary Green, Richard Marsh, Adam Brown, Phil Macdonald and Kirk Flintoff - are household names, surfers synonymous with Cronulla’s evolution. Perhaps more interesting and often overlooked is the sheer number of dedicated and incredibly talented every day surfers from Cronulla – unheralded crew who charge serious waves whenever the swells up. At the risk of sounding a tad parochial I truly believe that Cronulla was and still is home to some of the lowest key, competent tube riding reef riders in Australia. Ross Marshall, Michael Mackie, Alby Ross, Kev Cassidy, Richard James, Mark Ryan, Gary Hughes, Rod Baldwin, Rusty Moran, Stuart Darcy, Rod Katis, Roachy, Jonesy, Andrew Linegar, Mark Moylan, 118
James Bickerton, Dean Whiteman, Mick Marjenovic, Simon Taylor, Matty Hurworth, Damien Hodge, Stu Nettle, Sparrow, Tweeky, Boots, Liddy and Barty are all well known Cronulla surfers who have moved away as crowds have escalated, but they’re not forgotten. They all cut their teeth and made a name for themselves pulling into slabs on Cronulla’s reefs or shredding the beaches before resettling up and down the coast in search of more chilled surrounds. The Cronulla surfing fraternity has also sadly lost too many brothers prematurely over the years. Great surfers like Troy ‘Nugget’ Dennehy, Brett ‘Beaver’ Schwiekle, Andrew Murphy, Shane Pringle, Pete Smith, Geoff Soleness, Richard Herbert and Wilbar are local legends that have passed prematurely in my 30 plus years of surfing in Bate Bay’s playground. Thankfully stacks of individuals – core committed surfers of the caliber of Chris Iredale, Gerry Manion, Steve Austin, Grant Coulter, Sean Charters, Jeremy Hrbac, Matty Griggs, Andy King, Daryl Van Der Polder, Fletch, Steve Hare, Graig Naylor, Hendo, Ross Macdonald, The Tyte brothers, Phil Carey, The Finbars, Ashley Gee, Terepai Richmond, Scotty Yealland, Grant Muir, Craig Cordingley, Caleb Maclean, Greg and Dave McKinley, Scotty Baxter, Glen Pringle, Stuart Gooch, Gav Aked, Wylie Fowler, Danny Maloney, Leigh Jackson, Luke Weinert, Todd Mingram, Joel Ethrington, The Johnston bros, Richie Brown, Ricky Marshall, Maurer, Sullos, Hogan, Winney, Gaddes, Macca, Batesy, Sharpy, Raindog, Smurf, Muzz, Con, Cabbo, Ballard, Jenkins, Brutzsky, Palmer, Cammo, Durbin, Browny, Warren, Dewey, Tyler, Blue, Bonning, Gorrell, Chooko, Brains, Muffin, Wigs, The Mulders, Vassey, Irvine, The Horner’s, The Wallace’s, Crispy, Madden and dozens more I would love to mention are doing a fine job of flying the flag. There’s also a whole new gen of young shredders led by Dyl Haylar, Dyl Hannah, Rory Jenkins and The Robbo’s in Cronulla and Jake Stalker, Conner O Leary, Joey Sears and Ben Dewhurst in EBC who are making a name for themselves on the contest scene.
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CRONULLA
So Many Surf S Bate Bay faces south southeast and Voodoo and the rest of the offshore Merries reefs serve as a block to shorter period northeast swells, often rendering the beachbreaks flat for days on end at the height of summer. That said, there are so many positive aspects to being a Cronulla surfer. The positives far outweigh the negatives when comparing Cronulla to many other sections of Australia’s surf drenched coastline. The close proximity of the Royal National Park and the South Coast makes it easy to escape south-ward during summer’s northeast-induced flat spells. Besides Sandshoes, Shelley (if you’re desperate), Island lefts or 120
The Alley do offer some respite in small northeast dribble. During autumn, winter and sometimes even spring, Cronulla can really turn it on. There’s such a huge variety of waves on offer, ranging from average to sometimes perfect beach breaks. Cronulla’s beachies from The Alley to Greenhill’s encompassing The Wall, Elouera, Midway; John Davey and Wanda are more consistent than most of Sydney’s beachbreaks in any swell from the south. Bate Bay houses Sydney’s longest beach at 4.8 km in length with the wilderness of the Greenhill’s Beach and dunes in the north. The beach sweeps in an arc beginning at Pimelwi
Rocks at Boat Harbour, through Greenhill’s and along the patrolled areas of Wanda, Elouera, North Cronulla and The Alley. The beachbreaks from Elouera North through to Greenhill’s are generally at their best in small to mediumsized southeast to south swells in the 3 to 6ft range, with offshore southwest to northwest winds. Hills can handle a slight northerly wind, but a strengthening southwester starts to chop into wave faces north from Midway. Occasionally Wanda and Elouera can handle solid swells but they must be peaky, not straight long – period groundswell lines, unless there’s a stray outside finger of sand
in place. The beachbreaks at The Alley and The Wall are semi-sheltered from southerly winds and occasionally get really good. The rights at The Alley occasionally line up nicely in a direct south or southeast swell, while the consistent inside left is generally best from mid to high tide in most swell directions. Behind the Pools can be good in east or north-east swells, while South Cronulla lefts can also provide an alternative if Cronulla Point is too crowded on really big days. You really do realise that Cronulla is a standout wave zone when you contemplate the number of seriously
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN
LA:
Spots hollow reefbreaks in relative proximity. On the northeastern tip of Bate Bay lies Voodoo. There’s a short hollow right reef just north of Vooey called Suck Rock, that delivers a quick, intense, barrel best in small to medium-sized swells from the southeast with offshore west or north winds. Occasionally the lefts can turn on in ENE swells too. Voodoo is one mean, thick mother of a wave that can handle a solid 15ft south swell. It’s a south swell magnet and, when the beaches are 6ft from the south, Voodoo is 8 - 10ft and packing Hawaiian-style punch. Best in northwest winds, it also handles the afternoon nor’easter, but
LEFT: There’s more to Cronulla than the famous reefbreaks. The Alley lining up beautifully on a crisp winter morning. PHOTO Horvath. TOP: Three times EBC club champion, now Cronulla SUP School and shop proprietor Todd Mingram slotted at Nth Cronulla. PHOTO Veage. ABOVE: The beachbreaks at Wanda and Elouera are generally at their best on clean 3-4ft days. Blake Johnston director of Cronulla Surfing Academy blasting on his backhand on one such day. PHOTO Whittaker/oceanart.
forget it in strong westerly’s. Straight south or southeast swells at low to mid tide are best. The take off is a gnarly, ledgy bowl and the wave actually grows in size as it heads down the line. The rest of The Merries Reefs are still semi-secret believe it or not, so I won’t really go into too much detail other than to say there’s an assortment of lefts and rights varying in quality. What I will say, though, is the wider you go, the more swell they handle. Fifth Left really only gets ridden a couple of times a year. First right, second right and second left are the most frequented breaks. First and Second reef generally operate best in small to medium east or southeast
swells with west or northwest winds on high tide dropping. At the southern end of the long expanse of beach breaks lies the legendary Cronulla Point. The Point consists of two separate reef sections, First and Second Reef. First breaks on small days, providing a hollow fun initial section upon take off, before backing off into a cutback pocket ahead of the final drain section. Second Reef comes into play when the swell hits the 4-6ft range. On solid days The Point is a seriously sucky, cylindrical wave that bowls rapidly across the reef with Hawaiian-like power and class. It can handle 10ft easily if conditions are right.
Best in a solid southeast or south swell with west or even southwest to south winds, The Point is rideable in any swell direction and is actually more performance-oriented in an east or northeast swell. However, in a really big east or northeast swell, the end section has a tendency to shut down. One hundred and fifty metres or so offshore to the south east of The Point lies the world famous Shark Island. In recent years The Island has become a bodyboarding haven simply because boogers can take it on in all conditions, even when the swell has north in it.
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“In terms of good waves for Stand Up, Bay surf’s good to learn and ride, because it’s small and easy. The point’s not to bad either for more experienced riders. Anywhere where there’s not too much of a crowd is good. A few committed crew have been getting out Vooey too!” Todd Mingram, Cronulla SUP
“After spending a fair bit of time overseas it’s great to come back and live in a place where I know everyone. I love being a part of the Cronulla surfing community! It’s so strong here.” Ryan Bridges, RB Shapes
“The surf is generally rideable big or small and is ok in most wind directions. The variety of waves when it gets good can be world class.” Stuart Paterson, PCC Paterson Contemporary Craft
“Voodoo. Good hollow consistent lefts and rights.” Mark Riley, Riley Balsa Surfboards
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Blake Johnston, Cronulla Surfing Academy
LOCAL: SURF TOWN
“Voodoo and a secret spot we call Slingshots. The best day/tube of my life was out there and it’s my favourite wave in the world.”
Basically, The Island is for experienced surfers only. It’s best in a straight southeast swell with offshore winds light from the west or north-west. Swell direction is critical. If it’s too south the end ‘Surge’ section doesn’t barrel, but if it’s too east there is a shutdown factor. Medium to large, clean east to southeast swells are generally the ideal direction and 4 - 8ft is the optimum size, though it can handle up to 10 feet if conditions are perfect. Definitely only a mid to high tide break and only go-for-it, fully committed surfers should paddle out, as one wrong move can land you on bone-dry reef. Southward from Island Rights, Island Lefts can be worth investigating in a northeast swell. Then there’s Shelley (a fat, rarely worthwhile reefbreak), Blackwoods (a fickle strip of sand on rock), Pipeline (a complete embarrassment to its namesake) and Windy Point, which can be an interesting, though sectioning, barrel when the swell is solid from the E. Last but not least Sandshoes is a peaky, sometimes hollow right that offers some respite in NE windswells. In big Sth swells there can also be a short, quite intense left off the back of the pool. With so many waves in the Cronulla region, coupled with the fact that it’s the last stop on the train, it can get very crowded during summer. But in the winter (surfers’ season), the local tribes dominate their break and you will go a long way before you witness a better standard of surfing on too many beaches in Aus than what’s on show daily at The Nulla.
Cronulla is home to several world class slabbing reef breaks. Matty Griggs slotted on a fun day at the Island. PHOTO Craig Stroh jan/feb 2012
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN Caleb always charges hard out at Cape Fear. PHOTO Craig Stroh
Cape Fear Cape Solander, Pikers Hole, ‘Ours’ or ‘Yours’ technically or geographically speaking lies just outside of the confines of Bate Bay, lying less than a kilometre north of Voodoo on the Kurnell Peninsula. Its reputation as Sydney’s and one of Australia’s heaviest waves has seen it surpass even Shark Island’s notoriority in recent years. There has been that much insane footage in mags, films and online in recent years that I won’t add to the hype here, other than to say it is an awe inspiring wave and the surfers that charge it, whether they are from Cronulla, Maroubra or anywhere else deserve the utmost respect.
Novelty Waves It is also comforting to know that whenever a wild east coast low batters Sydney and surrounds with cyclonic strength onshore winds the Port Hacking and Botany Bay waterways that surround Bate Bay offer several surfable options on those wild and woolly days when most can’t imagine venturing outside let alone seeking out a surf. Bay Surf inside Port Hacking is one such option and there are one or two decent reef and pointbreaks just inside Botany Bay too. 124
There’s some quality novelty waves inside Cronulla’s surrounding waterways when it gets too big for Bate Bay. PHOTO Horvath
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COG
TRIPLE BULL SURF SNOW SKATE
Triple Bull Surf Cronulla 23 Kingsway Cronulla NSW, 2230 Phone: 02 9544 0354
Triple Bull Surf Menai 5 Carter Road Menai NSW, 2234 Phone 02 9541 1445
triplebull.com.au facebook.com/triplebull @3xBullCronulla
Triple Bull is the core surf store of Cronulla. First opening under the management of pro surfer Richard ‘Dog’ Marsh in the 1990’s, it has always been an important destination to the local surfing community. Supporting all local clubs and competitions, Triple Bull is a supporter of local talent in and out of the water. As the Sutherland Shires largest supplier of hardgoods with huge ranges of surfboards, wetsuits and accessories, and also a large range of snowboard accessories in season, plus skate hardgoods all year, the core boardrider is well serviced. For the dames lasses and everyone else, Triple Bull has the freshest ranges of swimwear, apparel, eyewear, watches and accessories for the beach, the street, the airport and after 5. Roll in and Rock out! jan/feb 2012
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Stand Up Paddle Boards, Carbon Paddles, Soft Surfboards and Accessories. Demos Available By Appointment. Wholesale and Retail.
The Shire’s 1st SUP Manufacturer! Sun Jam Australia. PH: 0435 754 800 Cronulla NSW 2230 TOP: Peter Japp and Cronulla Sutherland Stand Up Paddle Club organises many great SUP events in the area. PHOTO Supplied ABOVE: There’s so much room to move for SUPers and surfers in and around Cronulla as this photo proves. You have Sandshoes reef in the foreground and Port Hacking in the background. Waves or flat water. Take your pick. PHOTO Horvath
www.sunjampaddleboards.com.au
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RIGHT: Lou from EastCoast Stand Up Paddle tackles the waterways. PHOTO: Daniel Hampson/looktosea.com.au
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Waterways “We are so blessed living near Port Hacking. I have been to a lot of different bays in Aus, but let me tell you, none of them are like The Hacking. It is perfect for any type of boating or water sport you’re into and so clean.” Howie – Triple Bull and Cronulla Surf Design “From a stand up paddlers point of view there are so many wonderful and diverse waterways just waiting to be explored including Port Hacking River, Woronora River, Georges River and Botany Bay. Don’t forget our legendary ‘Bay Surf’ on the Port Hacking River which delivers 200 metre plus long rides when the tide and swell are right.” Peter Japp – East Coast Stand Up Paddle “For SUPers I would suggest they get a lesson in say The Bay first, get confident in flat water before hitting the surf. I think in terms of safety it is important that learners heed advice from accredited coaches on surfing etiquette and where to ride your SUP etc. Safety comes first, so don’t put other people in danger. Newbie’s should definitely not be surfing on a SUP in crowds or on the main peaks on the beach unless you’re absolutely killing it. The beauty of Stand-up is you don’t have to ride the best waves or surf the main spots to have fun. Less crowds equals more waves!” Todd Mingram, Cronulla SUP jan/feb 2012
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN
“El Sol Mexican restaurant cannot be beaten for a good night out. The Scorpion Bar at El Sol pumps on a Sunday - it’s the original and owned by one of the local lads. Deano’s a legend and he will keep ya missus entertained all night! Todd Mingram, Cronulla SUP
More To The Nulla Than Waves First mapped in 1796 by explorers Matthew Flinders and George Bass, Cronulla remained a hidden gem for several decades, known only to the few who built estates there. But in 1885 when the railway arrived, the Nulla’s beaches quickly became a weekend attraction. Although hotels, units and modern apartment blocks have replaced the old beach shacks, the region has retained its friendly Australian personality. It’s that down-to-earth quality that has kept people like Deano Hughes in the area. Dean grew up in the area, and then took off backpacking overseas. After spending quite a bit of time in Mexico and South America surfing and meeting people Deano decided to open his own restaurant, El Sol, so Nulla crew would have somewhere to eat, have a drink and hang out when they visited. Deano says that while it’s important for visitors to surf, Cronulla not only 128
offers great waves, but also a chance to mix with locals. After your day in the water, you can either head to Northies for a relaxing ale, or out to dinner. Cronulla’s dining options range from the most basic take away, to Italian to Thai, to seafood restaurants or fine dining at Sealevel, Summer Salt, Blue Parrot or Zimzala. Alternatively you can just invest in some freshly made fish and chips and take them down to South Cronulla beach or park with you. You can head out for a night of live music at The Brass Monkey or crash early and Catch the Cronulla to Bundeena Ferry, which runs every hour, and is the oldest commuter ferry operating to a timetable in Australia, and offers a ride on sparkling waters. There’s also a three hour Port Hacking Scenic River Cruise, which retraces the historic 1796 journey of Bass and Flinders. On the Cronulla side of the
river you can admire the waterfront mansions; on the other, there’s the Royal National Park itself. Cronulla Beach Peninsula harbours a number of rock pools south of The Alley at North Cronulla, and a bunch more south of South Cronulla Beach. There’s also The Promenade with its scenic coastal walk to Bass and Flinders, with views towards Port Hacking and Bundeena. Cronulla Mall has lots of eateries including al fresco restaurants, great coffee at Grind or Kafenio and varied night life and a Multiplex cinema. Massive Miranda Fair shopping centre is less than 10 mins away by car or train. There’s some great coastal parks and picnic facilities, swings for the kids at Wanda, Elouera, Nth Cronulla, Sth Cronulla, Shelley and Sandshoes. Nearby Gunnamatta Park and Beach also offers a shark netted pool, great
flat water Sup facilities and fishing. In Autumn Cronulla hosts a great Food and Wine Festival, Jazz and Shiraz and in spring there is the annual Spring Festival. Nearby Hazelhurst gallery is the pick for art lovers and Caringbah markets every fourth Sunday is great for a bargain.
Live Music Cronulla surfers have long been renowned as live music lovers. Huge contingents from the Nulla can regularly be seen at festivals or inner city music venues rocking out. Well known local surfers like Gary Hughes fronted bands like Charm School and the Silent Types. Richard Herbert formed the always entertaining Dick Bent and The Bentnicks, Patch and Rick punked out in Playground Of Hate and Patto’s Yard Animals were a Stooges inspired garage rock act.
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MAIN: El Sol - Deano and his chilled staff along with the food and atmosphere make El Sol the premier casual bar and eatery in the Nulla. ABOVE: Stuart Paterson of PCC Surfboards has always been a dedicated muso. PHOTO: Veage
“I started playing guitar before I started surfing, I was about 12,” Says Patto. “My first band was Yard Animals and later I was in another called Forge. We did plenty of gigs and had a great time along the way. In my twenties I worked as the in house audio guy at the Royal Hotel at Sutherland. I saw so many bands... All that music was a heavy influence on my life. Looking back it was a magic time around Sydney for the live scene, a scene that is sadly long gone.” Other crews like Mick Hickey, JT, Rojey and Adam Scott have been in a bunch of cool bands too. Local live music venues like Caringbah Inn regularly hosted epic touring acts in the 80s and 90s like The Damned, Citizen Fish (ex Subhuman’s), Guttermouth and Agent Orange not to mention some of Australia’s finest like
Midnight Oil, Inxs, The Celibate Rifles, The Sunnyboys, The New Christ’s, The Melting Skyscrapers, The Trilobites and The Psychotic Turnbuckles. Sylvania played host to Iggy, The old Cronulla Workers Club Dead Kennedy’s gig in 83 is legendary and Carmen’s once hosted the Anti Nowhere League. The Sutho Royal flew the flag for Australian independents like The Lime Spiders, The Hard Ons, The Hellmen, Mass Appeal and The Happy Hate Me Nots. More recently The Caringbah Bizzo’s has been the venue to see bands like Viscous Circle, Radio Birdman and The US Bombs. Extra special thanks to John Veage, Brad Whittaker, Greg McCarthy, Chris Stroh, Craig Stroh and Luke Sullivan for their valued contributions.
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Media There has always been strong media representation in Cronulla too. Jack Eden published Surfabout mag in the 60s, Steve Core established Surf in the 70s, Graham ‘Sid’ Cassidy edited Waves magazine in the late 70s and early 80s before becoming sports editor at The SMH and later ASP director in the 80s. Peter Simons, then Paul Sargeant were both photo editors at Tracks in its 80s heyday, my own Underground Surf magazine went alright in the 90s and local photographers like Andrew “Shorty” Buckley, Johnny Frank, John Veage, Steve Baccon, Chris and Craig Stroh, Greg McCarthy, Gary Birdsall and Matt Johnson are highly sought-after surf photographers on the international stage. More recently the two major online surf forecasting websites have had Cronulla based editors Coastalwatch myself and Swellnet Stu Nettle. Matty Griggs has written several best selling books and a host of local websites have been attracting plenty of attention in the new media landscape. For a sample of the best locally produced new media sites check out Greg McCarthy’s ww.oceanart.com.au or www. surfimages.com.au websites. Chris and Craig Stroh’s informative Cronulla Surf Museum site is a must see at cronullasurfmuseum. com.au and Luke Sullivan’s Killvan. com is an open window into the travel experiences of Jay Killvan. Matt Johnsons surf photography email called the sea life is free and well worth subscribing to. Go to www.thesealife.com.au and
you’ll receive a brief surf report and photos from that day of the sunrise, the waves and those sliding them. Outside of shapers and media personnel, Dennis Kitchener at Saltwater boardshorts back in the late 70s, Local kneelo Tony Wales at Matt and Coe in the 80s, Eugene King and Shane Moran at SMP in the 90s, Mark Aprilovic at Cronulla Surf Design forever, Dog and more recently Howie at Triple Bull, Greg Willet and Benny Johno at Willett Johnston Partners, Schmoo and Kurt at CSP, Greg, Ben and John at Vestal, Todd Liddy at SDS, Deano at El Sol, and Matty White at The Realm and Carve Eyewear have all been massive Cronulla Surfing community supporters. Finally a discussion about Cronulla surf media is not complete without mentioning the 1981 Australian film Puberty Blues directed by Bruce Beresford. The film is based on the 1979 novel Puberty Blues, by Gabrielle Carey and Kathy Lette. It is kind of a proto-feminist teen novel about two 13-year-old girls from the Sutherland Shire. The girls attempt to integrate themselves into the then very masculine domain of the “Greenhill’s gang” of surfers in an attempt to meet guys and become more popular. It’s a pretty honest assessment of male/female relationships in that era and of course every view brings back memories of the once grand sand dunes at Hills, The Workers Club, Joes, old Northies and the main drag before Cronulla Street became a pedestrian mall. For some lengthy you tube preview clips go to www.youtube.com/ watch?v=5xZn-9svNcA or better still get it out on DVD.
ABOVE: Craig Stroh on the other end of the lens. His second movie, “2” should be out late this year. Craig’s amassed hundreds of hours worth of mental footage since Twenty Two Thirty. “2” will be amazing because Craig is a perfectionist. You know one average wave won’t make the final edit. LEFT: The ever bright Kathy Lette - author of Puberty Blues. PHOTO courtesy Sutherland Shire Council jan/feb 2012
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN
“At the end of the day I love Cronulla so much. We want to raise our kids and live here forever. My family have pretty solid roots in the hood. I dig the people that live around the area. Everyone’s super cool and always up to say g’day and have a chat. Everyone always helps everyone one and supports each other in the area.” Howie, Triple Bull and Cronulla Surf Design Proprietor
MAIN: Nigel “Howie” Howell was a leading wakeboarder before he bought Triple Bull and Cronulla Surf Design. Howie knows Bate Bay and every nook and cranny inside Port Hacking. He may be busy, but he still knows how to put it on rail. RIGHT: Greg Willett with two of his clients - Cronulla icons Occy and Dog. PHOTO: JOHN VEAGE. BOTTOM: Ben Johnston can bury a rail just like his four brothers and old man could too. PHOTO JOHN VEAGE. ACROSS: Graham King of King Surfboards and Foam
The Surfing Industry Cronulla boardriders president and local media identity Johnny Veage said, “The surfing industry in Cronulla really boomed in the 70s. Raw materials were cheap and more accessible, there was little industry regulation and backyard business was booming. The Colligan’s Southern Comfort factory put a rocket up everyone and pushed boundaries beyond safe. Veagey talks of a time in the late 70s when he worked at Gordon and Smith (Taren Point) when Ross Longbottom (Dylan’s dad) could glass 100 boards a week no problem and their shaping and team roster was legendary. MP even had a stint there. Jim Lucas’s Force 9 and Steve Griffith’s Emerald were dominant in the 80s and Paul Armstrong’s Express label was very popular too. Stuart Darcy’s Pottz Surfboards and later Vudu were popular in the 90s and then local guys like Wayne Roach, Stuart Patterson, Craig Naylor, Rod Katis, Dennis Wright, Matt Hurworth and Ryan Bridge started their own labels. Jackson has been ever present and iconic throughout. In fact, the Jackson Surfboards name is synonymous with Cronullla, and why 132
not? They are a part of the very fabric of the place. Today Jim Parkinson and Dave Mattison have carried on from Brian ‘Jacko’ Jackson and continued the meticulous craftsmanship for which Jackson Surfboards have become renowned. But there are a number of other people, prominent within the local surf community, that are perhaps not known to those outside of Cronulla. Howie aka Nigel Howell has lived in the Shire his whole life. He owns the two most notable surf shops in town. Triple Bull and Surf Design are massive well-established businesses and are without doubt the two biggest and most hardwear orientated surf shops in the region. Both have their own loyal local following servicing the various board riding tribes both in and outside of Cronulla. Of the dozen or so surf shops in the area, Howie’s services the vast board riding community best. He sponsors all the board riders clubs and helps bring events here. Indeed The Nulla surfing community has been fortunate to have a small but supportive bunch of local businesses that
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kick in and help with prizes, sponsorship and fundraising whenever needed. However when you think of such things you immediately think of shapers, accessories, and clothing. Accountants just don’t fit the stereotype. Greg Willett and Ben Johnston however aren’t your stereotypical suit and spec wearing accountants. Greg and Ben are lifelong surfers deeply embedded in the local surfing fraternity and their business is a burgeoning octopus expanding into all things surf culture. Greg has always looked after a number of famous names in the surfing industry, guys like Occy (Mark Occhilupo), Richard Marsh and Sarge (surf journalist Paul Sargeant) along with many other clients in the surf industry. Ben on the other hand looks after the new breed of pro surfers such Craig Anderson, Jack Freestone and Laura Enever and successful filmmaker Kai Neville. Not only that, Willett Johnston recently started Surkyl Media looking after the likes of Owen, Tyler and Mikey Wright and have even become the Australasian licensee for Vestal Watches.
In terms of shaping, Cronulla boasts several generations of master craftsman, all with diverse backgrounds and different introductions to the surf industry. We talk with a few of those who perhaps don’t get the airplay they richly deserve. After all, we are always up for talking to different people and not just the usual suspects.
The Stalwart: All Hail the King A man who has been around since the beginning is Graham King of King Surfboards. “I’m not much of a hero around the place. I just put head down, arse up and pour blanks most of the time.” As humble as they come, Graham doesn’t make a big deal about what he does, even though, truth be told, he has pretty much been an integral part of the surfboard industry in Cronulla since the early days. A little while after Jackson Surfboards began in 1957, Graham started making boards in the Marrackville area before moving his business to Kirrawee in the CronullaSutherland Shire in 1962. It was there he first got in contact with Harold Walker Foam in Los Angeles. “Harold was the first ever guy to poor a blank. Anyhow we imported his blanks for quite a few years and then we started making our own foam and it went from there. We now supply most of the blanks in the area right down the entire South Coast. 80% of the manufacturers use my foam.” Through the years Graham’s knowledge has been called upon by many and in 2006, following
the collapse of Clark Foam in the States, a number of US shapers sought his assistance. What resulted was Graham and Rod MacDonald, his business partner in the venture, set up Kingmac, a massive factory in Tijuana, Mexico. They found themselves working day and night pouring some 300 moulds a day. All the while his daughter Sharron and the team kept things ticking over at his factory in Kirrawee. Sharron is still involved in the business today and along with Brad Turner, who now heads up the operation, and Aaron, Kyle and Robbie keeps King Surfboards and Foam still knocking out some 250 blanks a week along with a range of their own brand of surfboards and a busy glass contracting and CNC machine cutting service. It has certainly been quite a journey for the boy from Redfern who worked as an apprentice fitter and turner at the local power station before going to uni to undertake a mechanical engineering degree and immersing himself in the surfboard industry from the age of 20.
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“There are all a bunch of good guys who work really hard. Everyone seems to get on reasonably well.” Graham King of King Surfboards on the local surf industry
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The Sculptor Mind, body and spiritual expression
Stuart Paterson Stuart Paterson grew up in Engadine in the sixties and early seventies back when Engadine was almost rural. He hung out at the river and made it down the beach after school with an older mate who had an ancient Hillman wagon. Garie was Patto’s place in his formative years of surfing. He loved Garie and still does. There came a time after Patto had made a lot of boards, somewhere between one and two thousand, that he felt like he needed to access a bigger pool of surfers to work with, so he moved to Cronulla and started surfing around The Nulla and shaping for some of the top riders. “Being hooked on surfing and coming to a school leaving age I thought being a surfboard artist would be my dream job. My first idea was to be the guy who painted the art on surfboards, that is what I ended up doing when I was sixteen going on seventeen. “Becoming a shaper was about trying to build my own boards firstly. I was working at G&S at the time, all the equipment for building boards was available and some timely advice from my old departed friend Richard Herbert and good mate Warren Hardie helped me on my way. The boards worked from the start and off I went into design and shaping, learning to do it over and over. The motivation was not something I had considered, it just happened.” Today Patto is just as hands on and just as passionate about the creative process of crafting a board. “I still paint every board; check the fin set up on every board. I work very closely with Roger and Shane in the sanding and finishing. I am not outwardly trying to set myself apart from other makers. What I am passionate about is design and every aspect of what it takes to make a good surfboard.”
TOP: Patto self portrait cruising with Macca’s camera board there to capture the moment, back before GoPros were even thought of. BOTTOM: Patto hard at work in his shaping bay. PHOTO Veage
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Patto shares the same enthusiasm for utilising the latest construction methods. “The current applications of materials are varied. At the highest level of surfing most professionals use the basic modern formula, which is a light weight polyurethane blank laminated with one ply four ounce glass on each side. There may be a patch of extra glass for the feet positions but that is about it. Lightweight and not strong at all. These pro level boards have the best flex and weight that has been tried and tested since surfing began. The catch is that if you want to use this lightweight formula it only takes a failed floater or an unmake-able tube ride to snap your board into two pieces. We can build strong boards which can last for years but will ride heavy with no lively flex like the lighter builds. “Today there is another way to go that may become more popular in time, hand shaped polystyrene blanks that are glassed and finished entirely in epoxy resin. This process makes for a lighter and therefore a more sensitive core that can be glassed to last without losing performance. In some ways, like in the case of a bigger board with more volume, the performance is actually increased because of the huge saving in the weight of the lighter foam as opposed to traditional polyurethane. We have developed a method of glassing and finishing these styro epoxy models that are tough, vibrant, performers. I have also just started using some new pigment colouring methods that are very eye catching.” And as for a specialty board he is presently shaping, Patto has a different take on an old classic, the increasingly popular mini-Simmons. “In the last three or four years I have experimented with short wide and flat boards. Three summers ago I started making and riding my own version of the mini Simmons. I rode these for about six months exclusively. I began to experiment on a hybrid of what I know worked in current, modern shapes and what I thought worked from the Simmons. The combination evolved into something that one of my good friends nicknamed the ‘Stuey Diver.’ Ultimately people started coming in and asking if I could make one of these wide square tails for them. A large percentage of people kept coming back with very good feedback about how the board had changed their surfing - all very positive stuff.”
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN Ryan Bridges is a friendly, intelligent shaper who puts a lot back into the community getting out and about with his unique Boardjam events.
Ryan Bridges
The Jammer It’s personal Ryan Bridges was born in New York to English parents. He moved to Australia in the mid-80s when he was five and grew up surfing with his older brother around Cronulla. Ryan was hanging out at Vudu Surfboards as a teenager when a school project finally gave him a reason to hit up D’Arcy (Stuart) for shaping lessons. After sitting and watching Darce shape for a few months he was hooked. Eventually Darce let Bridgey loose with the tools just before he moved his family to QLD. When Bridgey left school he jumped the fence into Force 9 where he continued to learn the craft from ‘Patto’ (Stuart Paterson) and Jim (Lucas). When Patto moved on to start his own label (PCC), Bridgey shared the shaping duties at The Force with Dean Frazer for a few years before upping stumps and spending a few years living in London and travelling around Europe. In 2009 he got the shaping bug back and moved back to the Shire and set up RB Shapes. These days Bridgey like Patto, is one of the most in demand shapers in the Nulla. We asked Ryan what prompted him to get into shaping in the first place. “I just wanted to learn how boards worked initially. I guess so I could be a better surfer. When I started building
boards it was just for my mates so I was really just motivated to make boards that worked well for them. I had a strong belief from very early on that no one knew my mates or my surfing better than I did so I figured I should be able to make the best boards for us. I guess that was the foundation for the way I approach my job now. I take it very personally that it’s up to me to create the best boards for individuals, and that means getting to know them, surfing with them and forging good working and personal relationships, and that’s the best part of my job.” In a day where a greater focus is on mass production and producing things at a price point, Ryan has focused his energies on the other end of the spectrum, spending a lot of time with his customers and understanding what they are specifically after in a surfboard. “Right now I guess it’s the fact that I’m keen to get my hands dirty! I want to be really involved with the local surfing community, figure out what people want to ride instead of assuming, or worse, telling them! I see my job as a custom surfboard maker. That means half my job is physically being a shaper, and the other half is engaging my customers! Finding out what they want
and giving them the best experience I can. “In an age where an increasing percentage of boards are being mass produced I think there’s never been a more important time to focus on that service. We’re heavily involved with the local clubs, particularly Elouera Board Riders and we sponsor a lot of the big contests that come to Cronulla. Not just for the publicity, but on one hand to encourage these comps to come here which helps our region and our local surfers, and on the other just to be amongst it, to learn as much as I can about how everything works and where I fit in.” And to that end Ryan has even taken things a step further. “We came up with a concept called BOARDJAM to better connect with the surfing community. We take a stack of our demo boards down to the beach, usually with some of our team riders and just hang out. People can have a look or have a surf or a chat or whatever. “I find there is a certain type of conversation you can have with someone when they come into the shop for a chat and another type you can have with someone when you’re down
the beach or out in the water together. What we’re trying to do is create an atmosphere that makes people want to learn about different board styles and shapes. Somewhere they can ask us anything about surfboard design and not just have to take our word for it. They can grab a board and go ride it and see for themselves then come back and continue that conversation hopefully learning enough for them to realise or reaffirm that the knowledge a shaper has is worth tapping into. As for the shapes he is largely focused on at present, there is a fishy flavour but with a slightly different taste. “We’ve always made a lot of fishes, they suit our waves pretty well I think and they’re just fun! Both to surf and to shape! They can all be a little different and that keeps it interesting. Lately however there’s been a bit of a shift away from fishes. People want stubby shortboards to suit the waves where they would normally be reaching for their fish. Our ‘Frother’ model has been our best seller this past year, actually by miles! The goal is to incorporate some of those characteristics that make a fish easy and fun to surf into a shortboard package so you can surf to the highest possible standard in small waves!” jan/feb 2012
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LOCAL: SURF TOWN The Eco Warrior Wooden it be nice
Mini-interview by DAVE SWAN
Mark Riley Environmental champion and champion bloke,
Mark Riley, is another shaper who calls The Shire home. Many may know his name by way of his stunning balsa surfboards but not much about the man himself. Well for starters, he is a bloody funny man who likes a beer and has a real passion for board building. After reading this little story, you may know a little more about the life of Riley. Even though he supports the Blues (NSW’s record breaking State of Origin rugby league side - they have now lost six series in a row to the mighty Qld Maroons... Ouch!) Mark was in fact born in
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Melbourne. His family moved to Gymea in the Southerland Shire when he was ten years of age and Mark developed a taste for surfing there and then. Mark also developed a keen interest in rugby league and played throughout his junior years for Cronulla. In his senior years he played halfback for the Illawarra Steelers and then the Gold Coast Seagulls in the NSWRL following in the footsteps of his father Johnny Riley who played alongside rugby league immortals Reg Gasnier and Johnny Raper for the St George Dragons. Mark’s father was on the famous 1959 Kangaroo Tour of the UK.
After badly breaking his leg for the third time in 1990 Mark turned his focus to carpentry. He finished his apprenticeship and started his own business building and renovating houses before he took off for a trip travelling from Mexico down to South America. Aside from a holiday, he was in search of a new business idea. Having broken both the surfboards he brought along for the trip, an idea dawned on him at his final stop in Ecuador. Mark came across some balsa wood and decided to take some sticks back to Australia and made some boards. In 1996 he returned to Ecuador and brought back a container. Riley Balsa Surfboards was born and at first Mark concentrated on making beautiful, high quality retro style 50s and 60s Malibus. He recognised how well they surfed even though they were quite heavy. Pretty soon he started experimenting with polyurethane and regular polystyrene with a balsa skin. Three years later, Mark was convinced he had found an alternative to polyurethane surfboards. Recycled EPS foam in combination with a 2-3mm balsa ‘skin’ made the boards super light but also very strong with great flex properties. The boards had a nice feel to them and looked bloody beautiful. “I also realised that polyurethane, when blown, is bad for the environment so I thought if I am going to make a lighter board, it has to be eco-friendly to be in line with the balsa (balsa is a very fast growing tree and is almost like a weed in South America.) I found this eco-friendly recycled polystyrene. What it is made from is old TV, fridge and washing machine packing boxes. The Polystyrene is regranulated and steamed together to form a new 3m block that we cut our rocker template from. All the waste from the block is then recycled as well. I think my boards are one of the most eco-friendly boards around.” Today Mark still shapes his classic solid balsa malibus but also a number of high performance lightweight shortboards, retro fishes, minimals and longboards utilsing the recycled EPS core and balsa skin construction. He is particularly proud of the fact the boards are 100% Australian made and guarantees they will outlast and outperform the imported ‘pop outs’. “We use tried and tested materials to ensure a quality creation. I import my own quality balsa from South America and regularly return to ensure the quality is of the highest standard. I have been importing this balsa for over 15 years now.” Mark supplies a number of other shapers with high-end quality balsa as well and has even started growing his own balsa in Far North Queensland. Riley Balsa makes stunning tide clocks and has a range of supplies for the home board builder from complete kits and instructional DVDs through to raw balsa, balsa sheets, solid balsa and recycled EPS core/ balsa skin blanks and preshaped blanks. All in all, Mark has pretty much everything to do with balsa and like we said, he is a great bloke to boot. We can never pass through Cronulla without stopping by to say g’day and neither should you, but make sure you tee up a time to see him first though, so he can get some beers on ice.
jan/feb 2012
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BOARDS • SKATE • TESTS • REVIEWS • FASHION
“Perserverance, ning commitment, good liste r go skills and a good mentoyour a long way to develop skills.”
CLASSIC IN NAME & NATURE WHEN PETER WHITE OF CLASSIC MALIBU FAME FIRST STARTED SHAPING SURFBOARDS HE HAD ABSOLUTELY NO IDEA WHAT HE WAS DOING. It was complete trial and error. As a matter of fact, the first board he shaped was a lump of polystyrene he had found washed up on the foreshore at Seaford Beach that he promptly glassed with polyester resin only to watch it completely disappear before his very eyes. (For the uninitiated, polyester resin reacts with polystyrene causing it to disintegrate.) Although predominantly self-taught, Peter thankfully met Phil Grace a little later on. He still humbly credits Phil for developing his skills into the revered master craftsman he is today. The thing is, if there is someone to guide you when you are starting out, the learning curve is a hell of a lot quicker. We asked Peter a few questions about what it was like finding his way around the factory. HOW DID YOU EVEN KNOW WHERE TO START? After my first disaster, my dad bought me a surfboard kit from a company called Molford Plastics on my 13th birthday. He said, ‘There you go. Have some fun.’ I didn’t know laminating resin from filler resin. It was a baptism of fire. For many years I floundered in the dark but I did have a lot of fun. HOW OLD WERE YOU WHEN YOU FIRST SHAPED A BOARD? Well I sort of shaped the polystyrene board when I was 12. Then from 13 onwards I just started making a board a week for friends until they became some form of quality and it just went from there. The biggest boost I ever got was working with Phil Grace. WHAT WERE SOME OF THE IMPORTANT LESSONS YOU LEARNT FROM PHIL? Just absolute perfection and quality. Making sure, as the old story goes, ‘you measure twice, cut once’. Phil was innovative at the time and for him to move just a couple of hundred metres up the road from me was like absolute Nirvana. I just helped him out doing anything like sweeping floors to laying out cloths. I got to learn so much from resin mixes to how to run a tidy ship. His setups were always so immaculately clean. To this day, his whole approach was probably the best I have ever come across. WHAT ARE SKILLS OR PERSONAL TRAITS ESSENTIAL TO BECOMING A GOOD SHAPER? I look at a lot of the guys in the industry like Wayne Dean who came from a building background, they have an accurate eye for all things. From a hand shaping point of view, you need that accuracy and attention to detail. With the advent of the shaping machinery, I mean anyone can do it. To hand shape it from a raw blank, that’s another matter. Blanks aren’t perfect,
MEET PETER WHITE WORDS: DAVE SWAN
sometimes you have to shape the blank before you shape the surfboard. You have to really get to know board volumes, rail shapes, bottom shapes. Then there are a lot of basic formulas in a design sense that we continually play with. And with a hand made product there are so many other variables to consider from air moisture content that affects production to different catalyst ratios on materials. Perserverance, commitment, good listening skills and a good mentor go a long way to develop your skills. HOW DO YOU DEVELOP THAT TALENT? I suppose I am a fairly hard taskmaster when it comes to that. You just have to stand over and teach them. You can’t expect people to do it from nothing. A little bit of latitude here and there, allow the odd mistake and explain what the mistake is and how to avoid it next time. We teach different glassing techniques – free lap, cut lap, a zipper cut. There are so many different techniques that people can learn from shaping to glassing and spraying. Spraying is another dimension in itself. Then there is polishing. The other thing they have to learn is the sequence of how to do things. Some guys take ages to glass a board. But if you set it up properly you can glass three boards in the time you can do one board. We teach time management skills. ARE ARTISAN SKILLS THE KEY TO COMBATING CHEAP CHINESE IMPORTED SURFBOARDS? Yes definitely. The type of work we do in Australia is to my knowledge, not coming out of Asia at the moment. Australian shapers make some of the best boards in the world. Chinese factories just do a basic style of glassing. I don’t see any resin tints or resin art. What we do is a high end product that is very time consuming. The Asian style of thing is focused on volume – get it in, get it out. We can’t combat or avoid the imports. We export so why shouldn’t they import but it is quality craftsmanship that will differentiate us from the mass produced stuff. PETER IS CREDITED WITH DEVELOPING THE SKILLS OF A NUMBER OF TODAY’S MANUFACTURERS AROUND THE WORLD. “I’d like to think that everyone that’s spent time working with me over the 45 years I’ve been involved in the industry, has gained some knowledge to the betterment of surf boards. “In 2010, we had Dick Brewer shaping with us. You would think he’d know everything about shaping. After a couple of weeks we had both learned something new about shaping techniques from each other. There’s always time to understand and learn!”
THE SHAPER’S
APPRENTICE DO YOU HAVE WHAT IT TAKES TO BE A SURFBOARD DESIGNER? CLASSIC MALIBU and smorgasboarder present a unique opportunity to step into the world of surfboard manufacturing.
IF YOU HAVE GREAT IDEAS ABOUT SURFBOARD DESIGN WE WANT TO HEAR FROM YOU! CLASSIC MALIBU in Noosa is always on the lookout for great talent to continue producing surfboards of the highest quality and innovative design. Many of today’s top shapers have done their time in their workshop and you could be next. If you fancy yourself as an upcoming talent, send us sketches of your best idea, with up to 200 words telling us what it’s all about, along with your name and contact details. If yours is the favourite idea - as decided by a panel of judges with over 45 years of shaping experience between them - you will be be in line for the experience of a lifetime: Be involved in the manufacture of your own board design, start to finish, under the guidance of master shaper Peter White! Perfect your design, get hands-on in the shaping bay to shape your board and create a name and logo for your board design. For information, terms and conditions and to submit your design, email us on shapersapprentice@smorgasboarder.com.au
GET PLANNING! jan/feb 2012
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THE
POWER OF ONE WITH THE RESURGENCE IN RETRO DESIGN AND RENEWED INTEREST IN SINGLE FINS, IT’S AS GOOD A TIME AS ANY TO TALK WITH GEOFF McCOY ABOUT HIS SINGLE-MINDED OBSESSION WITH THE POWER OF ONE – SINGLE FINS.
Geoff’s never been one to shy away from voicing his opinions on the virtues of single fin designs. While for so long he appeared to be a lone wolf, there appears to be a growing chorus singing the same tune. “It goes back to the twin fins I shaped and built many years ago. To me the design brought with it wide, thick tails, which I recognised as a major contributor to the exciting performance and freedom the twin fin offered at the time. “After working intensely on the twin fin design for a few years, in a wide range of surf conditions both in Australia and Hawaii, I realised the shortcomings of its performance in large waves. However what I did recognise was the advantages of the wider, thicker tail. Combined with my ‘energy theory’, it motivated me to incorporate wide, thick tails with single fin design, which I originally called the Lazor Zap.” Initially Geoff was sceptical of wide, thick tails. Like many others, he thought they would slide or spin out in hollow waves. As a consequence the first models of the Lazor Zap had three flyers starting 15” up from the tail to reduce the tail area. He coupled the flyers with a swallowtail to help hold the tail in. “As time went by I began to realise the tail was not spinning out or acting unusual so I reduced the flyers back to 12” and 2 reductions into the swallow tail, which held perfectly. Not only that, the performance of the board actually improved. My next move was to have only one flyer at 6” from the tail, which worked even better.” Excited about the future possibilities of the thick, wide tail single fin design, Geoff continued to experiment. In his opinion it was already far outperforming the restricted twin fin design. “My Lazor Zap was the most progressive surfboard designed at the time. However, due to ego, greed and ignorance, my competitors at the time decided to discredit my single fin designs to diminish the influence I held in the field of surfboard design. “They did this by heavily promoting the restricted twin fin design over my revolutionary single fin design and mounting a slander campaign against the single fin. The medium they used to do this was the Pro Tour.
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“In collaboration with the magazine mafia, they heaped false praise on the twin fin to the public at the expense of the superior performing Lazor Zap single fin design. By doing this they were able to become the controllers of Pro Surfing and to dictate design, which they have continued to do for 30 plus years now. “Sadly what eventuated was pure ignorance in relation to the practical functions of design. The result of this ignorance is the most abstract dysfunctional surfboard of all time – the so-called modern ‘Pro’ shortboard, which is the ultimate disaster for all but the elite. “The involvement of big companies with self-interest and gain has done nothing for the everyday surfer. For a long time they allowed nothing new, only the rank and file kiss-arse designers with nothing or very little to contribute but they were the ones given a voice.” It is interesting to note that the McCoy name is strangely absent from many annals of surfing history considering his influence. Throughout our travels with smorgasboarder, Geoff’s name is frequently mentioned in our discussions with shapers, collectors, historians and anyone with a passion for surfing and in particular, surfboard design. Many make mention of the design advancements the Lazor Zap introduced to surfboard shaping. Considering such comments from so many, his omission is rather odd. With the advent of new technology however, Geoff found a new voice and a means to reach the everyday surfer through the internet. His website delivered a platform to showcase his designs and as he puts it, “without the intervention of the power brokers, distorting and misrepresenting my design theory.” “Unsurprisingly my designs have attracted new enthusiastic interest because of their futuristic appearance and more to the point, their amazing performance.”
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GEAR: SHAPER PHOTO: Mark Chapman jan/feb 2012
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THE EVOLUTION
OF McCOY’S SINGLE FIN DESIGN
“I found the key to understanding surfboard design was to truly understand the reaction water has on an object in motion and in particular, how different contours produce a consistent reaction. I am forever trying to neutralise the object’s reaction to allow for greater control in a wide variety of wave sizes and conditions.” To reach this level of awareness in respect to the more subtle aspects of surfing it has taken Geoff many years of research and development and the use of all available features that can be included in a design. “The only reason I know anything is because I have experimented. Through the years I have done some bizarre stuff and I now know what works.” “With regards to the evolution and development of my shaping I was very fortunate from early on. I knew a guy called Ray Richards, none other than four-time world champion Mark Richard’s dad. He was a very clever man. “Before I got to know him well, I encountered what I believed was a major problem. Every time he came to pick up some of my boards he would complain about the last lot. I got worried about it and started to wonder whether or not my crew and I were good enough to make boards for the guy. “Anyhow, one day I confronted him and said, ‘Ray, I’m sorry but I don’t think I will be able to keep making boards for you. Every time you complain. There’s always something you don’t like and we’re trying our best. Ray then said to me, ‘The boards are magnificent son, but they might not be that good if I didn’t complain and keep on your back.’ I never forgot it. “To this day I like people to pull apart what we do because it ensures we are at the top of our game. As much as you hate it, you must have someone putting it on you all the time, otherwise you go off the rails.”
THE PROCESS & DESIGN FEATURES
SOFT CURVES
“I tried all available contours from V’s to flats, concaves, channels, rolls and finally the dome concept, which I found by far outperformed all the others. “Every shape causes a reaction. In essence you want to harness the wave’s energy and be in harmony with it so you want a shape that is neutral. “Flats, concaves and channels all dispel energy inefficiently and decrease control for the surfer. For example, when you put together a flat bottom with a hard edge you achieve maximum release, as the features of the design repel water. “It is a common belief in surfing today that edges hold water. They in fact cut the water. That is why the boards are so thin now, so they can slice through the wave. With hard edges the water sheers off. When hard edges are combined with area and thickness, too much release is created causing sliding and drifting through bottom turns and cutbacks, making controlling the object very difficult.
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ABOVE: Geoff explains... LEFT: Various surfboard bottom shapes. ACROSS: Geoff rides an 8ft Nugget. PHOTO: Michelle Morrison BOTTOM RIGHT: Examples of how the rail interacts with the wave.
“As opposed to flat hard surfaces that repel water, I have found full soft curves hold water. This effect is consistent and predictable no matter where they are located on the object. “A wave is a smooth flowing object so why put the opposite in there – squares, straights, flats? The water will simply react or you can put something a little softer and curvier like the environment you are going to use it in and it will fit in better.” Geoff’s single fin wide, thick tail design concept is based on the subtle blending of what he refers to as ‘full loaded curves’ to achieve optimum performance and ease of control. “That is why my wide thick tail designs function so well. The softened curves are designed to achieve maximum hold for control and hard edges are only used sparingly to release unnecessary used water.”
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GEAR: SHAPER
“ EVERY SHAPE CAUSES A REACTION. IN ESSENCE, YOU WANT TO HARNESS THE WAVE’S ENERGY AND BE IN HARMONY WITH IT, SO YOU WANT A SHAPE THAT IS NEUTRAL.”
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THE THICK WIDE TAILS The distribution of the plan shape’s balance and thickness is designed to support the surfer where he “You bring the reaction of the object closer to your body and needs it most - in the tail of the feet and this in turn gives the surfer greater overall control. board. Geoff feels this is the most efficient way of generating energy.“Another aspect I have discovered, which is contrary to popular belief, is that the wider, thicker tail is better suited to the single fin design. This is because with a wide tail, multiple fins start to work independently from each other with unsatisfactory results.” As Geoff explains, by boosting the tail area and thickness it gives the single fin design more energy with no need to add fins to get thrust and forward motion. Plus less fins reduces drag giving the object more natural speed and maneuverability resulting in a free flowing easy to control object that is in harmony with the flow of the wave. “Not only that but by using accelerating curves such as the dome, with only one fin in the centre of the board, it allows the dome to perform more efficiently as there is no obstruction to the flow of water by side fins. This gives off a cleaner, smoother flow to the object and allows the dome to perform its correct function. NOTE: In order to explain how a ‘dome’ works it’s possibly best to exaggerate its outline. Imagine the ‘dome’ as the back of a large teaspoon built into the bottom of your board situated between where you place your two feet. This dome not only enhances the board’s hold to the wave, it enables you to smoothly roll from rail to tail as you turn the board enhancing its maneuverability.
Geoff sees another very important design feature as the softening of the rails under edge. This allows the rails to hold water, which provides extra hold for the single fin, preventing sliding and spinning out and thus the need for extra fins.
TOP: Astron Zot’s thick, wide tail DIAGRAM: How design features affect the reactivity of a board. RIGHT: Alistair McDiarmid from Lennox Head, Astron Zot spray art . PHOTO: Michelle Strain 144
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GEAR: SHAPER
TEST THE TEASPOON THEORY Run a strong, steady stream of water from a tap. Lightly hold a teaspoon between your thumb and index finger and introduce the back of the spoon (dome-like appearance) into the water stream. The spoon will suck into the water stream and hold.
DIAGRAM: How various design features affect the way a board interacts with the wave.
PLAN SHAPE In years gone by, and in many cases today, single fin designs taper from a wide point forward of the middle of the board into a pintail. “This reduced volume does not serve to support the surfer and the narrow tail disperses energy. I have found by boosting the volume in the tail of the board it harnesses the energy of the wave more efficiently giving the back of the board a driving feeling as opposed to a dragging feeling. “By changing the plan shape to feature a narrow nose and wide tail, it allows the object to elevate from the tail area because of the waves natural action where water sucks up and spills over it. This causes the widest part of the object to elevate the most, so the wide tail is constantly being elevated by the wave. There is no effort required by the surfer.”
EVOLUTION: From the 1972 McCoy single fin (left) to the Astron Zot of today (right.)
“Once you are aware of these reactions it is quite simple to adjust them to suit different surfing styles and abilities, as well as adapting them to the various design categories such as hot dog, mid range, big waves and tow boards. Being able to incorporate these concepts through a whole range of designs provides consistent performance characteristics.” jan/feb 2012
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GEAR: SHAPER ILLUSTRATION: Robert ‘Gypo’ Fenech
IT COMES AROUND “For too long surfboard design has only been about the pro surfer and the equipment they ride but the wheel has turned and common sense is returning. There are once again wider, thicker designs available. Mine are no longer the only ones.” As far as Geoff is concerned, the turn around in thinking is long overdue and one he has been advocating since he made the first Nugget in 1994. The acceptance and recognition of the design signals a practical return to riding equipment that is fun to surf. “It does not matter what your ability level, the main reason for surfing is to have fun and if you are not having fun, you are on the wrong equipment, it’s that simple. “From my perspective it is also interesting to note, that as the equipment focus has changed from what the pros ride to a more individual, practical approach. The average surfer is back having fun again. “For too long surfers struggled on pro equipment to be defeated by the experience. Instead of giving up in disgust, believing they ‘weren’t up to it’ or ‘past it’ they have rediscovered the joy of surfing.” 146
SOME McCOYS OF TODAY: Refined designs that have stood the test of time. (Left -right) The Lazor Zap, the Big Guy Nugget and the Astron Zot.
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As for Geoff’s single fin design, it has been a long time maturing. In fact, his personal preference for the last 22 years has been nothing but the single fin. “My Astron Zot’s wide thick tail is testimony to its new improved all round performance and it gives me a huge feeling of satisfaction to know what I have learned along the way and believed in for all these years is now fact.
PHOTO: Mark Chapman
“My wide thick tail designs are now being copied worldwide by all the prominent guru designers who for years have been talking them down in complete ignorance. What am I supposed to say... They’re geniuses for taking some 30+ years to catch on.”
FOR MORE ON McCOY BOARDS: Visit the showroom in Byron Bay at 10 Acacia Street, call on 02 6685 3227 or visit www.mccoysurfboards.com jan/feb 2012
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HAND PLANES
THE TRADITIONAL
THE ALLROUNDER
*MAGIC PEANUT
STRINGERLESS
Shaper: Dave O’Reilly Specs: Varies a bit, but 18” x 8” x ¾” Ideal: The bigger, the better – test yourself! Suits: Aquababies, waterboys, ironmen, swimsuit models, etc... Ability: Everyone can bodysurf. This just makes each wave last longer. Description: Headstone, Phatbat, Eclipse, Seafood Platter (and Pintail) or one for each day of the week. Bodysurf with unreal results. Turn, carve and get barrelled like never before. Totally addictive. Construction: 100% Australian grown, milled and shaped Paulownia sealed with a raw linseed/ gum turpentine mix or a bio varnish gloss finish. Fins: Just the two you can put on your feet. Not compulsory but helps when you’re diving under the 8ft cleanup sets. Shaper comment: I can’t make these fast enough. Turns unsurfable onshore days into hours of fitness and fun. Requires boardies with a strong drawstring as it’s not fun walking back up the beach with just your fins and hand plane!
Shaper: Dave O’Reilly Specs: 6’5” x 16 ¾” x ¾” Ideal: Small to medium clean days. Suits: Anyone who wants to glide. Ability: Beginner to pro – give it a go. Description: All custom orders are shaped from the best premium grade blanks available. A flat deck with deep bottom rails and a single concave from just behind the nose to the tail. Thin the tail to give it some looseness and hey presto! – go slide! Construction: 100% Australian grown and milled plantation Paulownia, sealed with a mix of raw linseed oil and gum turpentine. Fins: No fins required – let the rails do the work. Shaper comment: Alaias are made for time travel – they will take you back to a simple form of surfing that gives you ultimate reward – a smile you can’t wipe off your face. Take the trip!
Shaper: A ndrew Wells Specs: 7’0” x 21½” x 2 5/8” Ideal: Anything you can paddle into. Suits: All levels Description: This board has a more traditional outline blended with modern rockers. Being hollow timber, there’s plenty of float and it easily skips over any fat sections while maintaining speed and drive. Additional weight of timber gives smooth flow in the water. Construction: Hollow timber - plantation grown Paulownia and recycled cedar. Resin tints available. Fins: Single or 1 + 2. Shaper comment: As it’s name says, a great Allrounder. All individually handcrafted from recycled/plantation grown timber. Each board takes over 30hrs to hand craft and is completely unique. These look great, surf great and will give you years of enjoyment.
Shaper: Adrian Knott Dimensions: from 4’8 -5’8 Above :5’0” x 20” x 2 ½” Ideal: Knee to head height Suits: Average Joe to local rip rat Description: Magic Peanut draws inspiration from the Greenough, Simmons and paipo family. For those who find the Mini-Simmons too wide and bulky, I have narrowed down the outline, rounded out the tail and kept the rocker relaxed for speed. Little flip in the nose to get into steeper waves and added a quad setup. A super fast and manueverable little foam nugget. Ride me super short! Construction: Stringerless PU, wetrub finish, 4/4 oz deck + patch, 6oz bottom.Available in full pigment or tint. Fins: Quad FCS or glass on, hand-foiled marine ply. Shaper comment: I’ve been riding the traditional Mini-Simmons for a while but when the surf is small I now reach for the Peanut. Get one in the quiver!
Shaper: T homas Bexon Dimensions: 9’9” x 23 ½” x 3” Ideal conditions: Clean, hollow point waves, beachies and anything with shape. Description: A high performance log, flex is the secret with this one. Inspired by mid-sixties experiments and refined with todays knowledge, bottom roll, bladed rails, flex fin and tail scoop. Construction: Stringerless heavyweight blank, 8oz bottom double 8 deck with patch Fins: Glassed on fin, box also available. Shaper comment: This is a log that can be thrown around a bit more and handle a touch more size. Call me.
GROWN SURFBOARDS Lennox Head
RAKE SURFBOARDS Torquay Vic 3228 Ph : 0400560317
THOMAS SURFBOARDS PO Box 239 Noosa Heads Qld 4567 Ph: 0412 131 491
SURFING GREEN Coolum Beach, QLD Mobile: 0412 042 811 surfinggreen.com.au
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SURFING GREEN Coolum Beach, QLD Mobile: 0412 042 811 surfinggreen.com.au
PO Box 801, Ballina NSW 2478
Ph: 0407 889 049
sales@grownsurfboards.com.au
grownsurfboards.com.au
rakesurfboards@optusnet.com.au rakesurfboards.blogspot.com www.rakefoamshapes.com
thomas_bexon@hotmail.com
thomassurfboards.com
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BONZAR
DYNOCORE™ FELIX
LITTLE BUDDHA
Shaper: T homas Bexon
Shaper: Dave Verrall Dimensions: 5’2” x 19” x 2 3/16” = 25.4L Ideal conditions: From average to performance waves. Suits: Accomplished surfers who want new feelings of higher performance Description: Originally a shaping machine mishap, but with Dave at the helm and some inspiration from Dan Thompson, this is what you get! With all the board parts you don’t need removed, the Felix has super high speed snappy turning. Made only in our Dynocore™ technology with deck channels and foot wells the board has pop and life with no fear of snap! A healthy addiction this summer to tighten your turns and sharpen your surfing. Construction: Dynocore™ incorporating a high-tech fusion of epoxy resin, exotic fibres and fused foam with engineered flex return Fins: FCS Fusion or Future Shaper comment: The best board you can get...
Shaper: Jason Wiggers Dimensions: 6’2 ½” x 22 ¼” x 2 15/16” Ideal conditions: Offshore or cross shore 1 - 8 foot. Suits: Beginner to advanced Description: Our modern fun board. Slight tail rocker and tail outline has been pulled in and rounded. Combined with the slight single into vee double concave through the fins, it gives you a good feeling for nice rail-to-rail turns. Construction: Ecofriendly and custom-made. Supersap Bio Epoxy Resin, bamboo mesh reinforcement, recycled Marko EPS foam blank and Probox fin boxes. Fins: Five fin set up, quad or thruster. FCS green fins. Shaper comment: Help the environment. These custom made boards are nearly 100% eco-friendly and Samsara Surfboards are one of the leading Eco friendly board manufacturers in Australia at the moment.
Dimensions: 6’5” x 19 ¾” x 2 ¾” Ideal conditions: Chest high and bigger with push and shape. Suits: Bigger, hollower waves. Description: A Cambell Brothers inspired design, this is a single to deep double-bonzer - a getbarrelled board, basically, with drive, hold, speed and flow. Construction: Cedar stringer, foam and fiberglass with two colour tint bottom with pigment deck Fins: Glassed on bonzer 4-fin and True Ames bonzer center fin. Shaper comment: Call me.
THOMAS SURFBOARDS PO Box 239 Noosa Heads Qld 4567 Ph: 0412 131 491 thomas_bexon@hotmail.com
thomassurfboards.com
DIVERSE SURFBOARDS 476 Gold Coast Hwy, Tugun, QLD 4224 Ph: 07 5598 4848 dave@diversesurf.com.au diversesurf.com.au
THE P2P
SMOKIN’BEAN
Shaper: Paul Woodbry
Shaper: James Ellis OSX - APS3000 Specs: 5’11” x 22 1/8” x 3 1/16” Ideal: 1-4 ft, all types of surf. Suits: At this width and thickness, guys and girls 90kg+. Custom available. Description: Flat, super fast and resembles a black jellybean. Tiny amount of reverse V. Sharp rounded tail, fishy nose, beautiful full rails for excellent hold. Construction: High-end. 200 GSM Cert. Japanese TORAY Twill Weave Carbon fibre, SCB PU foam, epoxy resin and acrylic epoxy gloss coats. Fins: Shapers plugs (5mm forward and back travel) with DVS (Dick Van Straalen) carbon fibre/composite fins from Shapers Shaper comment: Catches waves as easy as a mal. Turns like a shorty. Carbon construction gives this board a rocketing parabolic rail effect. A team effort between Distribution, D.D.S.A. CREATIVE, Pete from OES.
Specs: 6’3” x 19 ½” x 2 7/16” Ideal: 3 - 6ft Suits: Anyone who loves to drive hard off the bottom and attack the lip. Also loves to tube ride. Description: Paddles well - goes really fast. You can drive it as hard as you want from bottom to top. In waves from 3 - 6ft you can’t ask for a better model. Construction: Polyester resin and Southcoast blanks. Australian made 100%, Surfboardgraphics decal. Fins: Thruster set up Shaper comment: This shape never lets you down, heaps of speed and control all wrapped in one package. Woody Surf Design boards exclusively available from:
SAMSARA SURF Ph: 03 5622 0651 Mob: 0422 190 223 97 Albert St,warragul, 3820 Victoria, Australia
jason@samsarasurfboards.com
samsarasurfboards.com
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
DISTRIBUTION SURFBOARDS
SURFWARE AUSTRALIA
2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD 4551 Ph: 07 5491 3620 surfwareaustralia.com
Ph: 0410 175 552 PO BOX 633 Willunga SA 5172
james@ljdistribution.com.au
Available through interested surf stores jan/feb 2012
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GEAR: BOARDS
The bean for those on n a high-carbo diet...
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SINGLE FIN
8’ LONGBOARD
THE PUNTER
Shaper: Mark Rabbidge Dimensions: 6’2” x 20” x 2 ¾” single flyer single fin Ideal: All conditions, small to mid range Ability: All surfers who want to have fun Description: Modern version of old standard. Basically, find an old good one, ride it and then improve it. Construction: Fantastic polyester Fins: One glass-on or box Shaper comment: These boards are not novelty designs - they surf in an all round modern way without the hang-ups of old 70’s technology.
Shaper: Mark Rabbidge Dimensions: 8’ x 21” x 2 ¾” Suits: Custom tailored to suit the individual Description: Double ender well balanced board. Trim concave through middle, roll vee through the tail. Construction: Dion foam blanks. I’ve been dealing with them for 45 years and for good reason. Fins: 3 fin set up. Shaper comment: I have been making this board since the 80’s. It’s like a shortboard you can noseride.
Shaper: Terry “Snake” Bishop
RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN Ph: 02 4456 4038 Mobile: 0427 767 176 Bendalong, NSW 2539 www.markrabbidge.com
RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN Ph: 02 4456 4038 Mobile: 0427 767 176 Bendalong, NSW 2539 www.markrabbidge.com
Dimensions: 5’6” x 19” x 2 5/16” Ideal conditions: Punchy beach breaks or anything with a ramp. Suits: Youngster who want to pop airs. Description: Short, wide, flattened rocker and as thick as your normal shortboard. It’s fast and really responsive. Construction: PU Foam and polyester resin. Fins: Works well as thruster and quad. Shaper comment: This board is one for the trickster. Good if you want something that rockets around in the small stuff, and great for air section.
CARABINE SURFBOARDS 36 Finders Street Wollongong, NSW Ph/Fax: 02 4229 9462 carabinesurfboards.com.au
CORE 6’ SOFTBOARD
FLUID 7’ SOFTBOARD
Specs: 6’ x 20 /8” x 2 ¼” Ideal: Beach breaks for learners and point breaks for more advanced riders. Suits: Learners and advanced riders looking to have fun. Description: A softboard that is easy to ride for the learner but also a great fun board for an established rider. This is the most high performance softboard on the market. Construction: EPS core, double stringers, HDPE slick, NXL deck, pin line rail system. Fins: Thruster with plastic screw in fins. El Nino comment: Perfect for almost anybody. This softboard is a performance shape that will help a beginner advance quicker into performing turns and an advanced rider will have a blast on this easy paddling softboard. Take the soft option!
Specs: 7’ x 21 ¾” x 2 ¾” Ideal: Fun beach break or point break set ups. Wave conditions up to shoulder height. Suits: The learner, the surfer returning to the sport and the surfer who just likes having fun. Plus, you can ride your softboard through the flags. Description: It’s a softboard designed for fun. The board is designed with a performance template that is great for zipping through the crowded summer line ups. You will be paddling circles around your mates! Construction: EPS core, double stringers, HDPE slick, NXL deck. Fins: Thruster with plastic screw in fins. El Nino comment: A must have summer item for catching waves on during the busy summer months. Take the soft option!
MANTA SURF CO. PTY LTD
MANTA SURF CO. PTY LTD
6 Woodfield Blvd, Caringbah NSW 2229 Ph: 02 8536 4700 admin@elninosurf.com.au www.elninosurf.com.au
6 Woodfield Blvd, Caringbah NSW 2229 Ph: 02 8536 4700 admin@elninosurf.com.au www.elninosurf.com.au
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st in the hine Coa s n u S e th ams from Mitch Ad
E B Y A M YOU
Y D O NOB
THE
NESS T A E R G F -O FOR SORT (BUT G
PHOTO: JACK DEKORT
SEARCH
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HO YOU A
ARES W ASFins C
JANUARY
NOBODY MITCH ADAMS HOME BREAK: Coolum Beach BOARD: 5’7 Dumpster Diver FINS: HPM and HPXS GASfins FAVOURITE FOOD: Mexicana BEST WEEKEND: Beers, chicks, mates. Oh, and cracker surf. THE PHOTO: Taken by my mate Jack Dekort from Coolum Beach, at Coolum Beach. Jack said the conditions were really clean all day but the lighting that arvo was great.
WE NEED HOME TOWN HEROES!
At GASfins we reckon you should be able to enjoy the benefits of a top quality product, without the price tag, whether you’re a pro or not! And we reckon you deserve the fame too... Send in a photo of yourself showing your skills on your shortboard, longboard or the like to be in the running for GASfins gear and more. Score yourself a pack of fins and accessories AND reach the giddy heights of fame as our next nobody.
HPXS THRUSTER
Smaller version of the HPX. Centre fin is slightly smaller to give you quick release through turns. Great for small conditions or lighter surfers.
WWW.GASFINS.COM.AU GET GAS POWER UNDER YOUR BOARD Ask your local shaper for GASfins PROUDLY USED BY SHAPERS ALL DOWN THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA AND INTERNATONALLY.
SHAPERS:
Get in touch to try GASfins yourself. Quality and performance for your customers without the price tag for you. 0417 980 524 • gasfins@gmail.com jan/feb 2012 151
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS
FIVE QUESTIONS FOR
WAYNE MCKEWEN WORDS: DAVE SWAN PHOTO: MARK CHAPMAN
You’re widely recognised as a top-notch competitive surfer in your time. Do you have to be an elite surfer to be an accomplished shaper? Unless you have really good team of riders, it’s hard to get the indepth feedback you require without feeling it yourself. Al Merrick, for example, was never the best surfer but he has an exceptional team (none other than Kelly Slater). With me, Bede Durbidge (currently ranked in the top 15) is really good at communicating what he wants. Having also been a competitive surfer, I can relate to what he is after. This no doubt assists with your work with the likes of Bede but how about the average Joe Blow or Jane Doe? When you are working with elite surfers your eye for detail has to pick up so much more. You have to tune in to the finer details. This attention to detail certainly assists shaping boards for the average punter. You simply adapt and refine those design principles so they are more forgiving. Straight pro boards however don’t work for the average, everyday surfer. It took the public five years to figure that out. They saw what the best surfers were riding in the mags and wanted to surf those models, but unless you’re a pro they are dysfunctional. What’s your take on the growing trend towards surfers riding shorter boards and retro styles? Boards in the 80s were a lot better for the all-round surfer than recent wafer-thin models. The concave of a modern board only works in premium conditions. 152
80s boards were shorter because they had fuller outlines and less rocker. You could ride a wider variety of waves. I fully understand them because I was riding those boards back then at comp level and then began shaping them too. Speaking of such styles, you have thrown a fair bit of energy behind development of The Bullet. Would you like to briefly explain the progression of the design? I have been going for 3-4 years on its design from when fishes became popular again. Fishes are great in small surf but with such a wide nose and tail, they just skip out when the surf gets over 3ft. I wanted something that had a performance aspect to the design as well so it could handle waves when it got up around 4-6ft. The Bullet has an 80s style to it with a flatter rocker and a bit of vee but with refined design elements and curves that have been developed over a prolonged and intense testing period.
SHAPER Wayne McKewen MT WOODGEE Currumbin, Gold Coast, QLD SHAPING Just on 30 years BRIEF BACKGROUND Fomer champion surfer who came 2nd to Tom Curren in the 1980 World Title race. Arrived on the Gold Coast in 1972 and started shaping for Hot Stuff under Alan Byrne. Joined Mt Woodgee in 1985. MORE INFORMATION WWW.MTWOODGEE.COM.AU
Finally, is there a particular shaper you look up to or that has mentored you through the years? I have enormous respect for the Hawaiian shaper Eric Arakawa. In Australia, I have always looked up to guys like Allan and Ian Byrne. I worked under Alan for about 10 years when he was widely considered one of the world’s best, and have been shaping alongside Ian for around 15 years. I also have a great deal of respect for Rodney Dahlberg. These guys aren’t in it for the money, they are turned on by the art of shaping. But the guy who has truly mentored me and provided with so much more than a bit of guidance is Gill Glover, former shaper to Rabbit Bartholomew. He is a meticulous craftsman and has developed my skills and instilled in me a lot of confidence as a shaper.
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MINI BULLET
CHANNEL BOTTOM
THE WOMBAT
BIG DADDY SKULL
THE BIG KOI
Shaper: Wayne McKewen Specs: 5’11” x 19 ¼” x 2 7/16” Ideal: Anywhere from small beachies to medium point or reef waves. Suits: Surfers looking for better performance in a small wave board Description: These boards are stringerless to maximise flex. They have flatter rockers and a bit more volume as they need to be quite short to get the maximum benefit from the design. Most are vee bottoms and there are nine tail variations. Length is from 5’7” to 6’0”. Construction: PU Burford blank, 4 x 4oz decks and 4oz bottom. Fins: All have FCS 5-fin set ups to allow you to use as a thruster or a quad. Shaper comment: Added flex translates to a whippy feel and acceleration through turns. Customer and team feedback has been excellent.
Shaper: Ian Byrne Specs: 6’2” x 18 ½” x 2 ¼” Ideal conditions: 3-6ft good quality waves. Suits: Anyone looking for extra drive speed and hold in hollow point or reef waves Ability: Int. to competition Description: A thoroughbred that comes into its own when the waves are clean, fast and hollow. Stock range is from 6’2”- 6’6” in round pin tails or swallows. Can be custom made to any size including 7 foot+ Hawaiian guns. Construction: PU Burford blank, 4 x 4oz decks and 4oz bottom. Fins: FCS thruster set up. Shaper comment: Ian has made Channel Bottoms for over 20 years. The design has been proven in the best waves on the planet. This is for serious surfing destinations like G-land or Hawaii and works well on points and beachies. If you’re looking for a superfast, down-the-line board, this will deliver.
Shaper: Lee Cheyne Dimensions: 6’2” x 19 ¼” x 2 3/8” Ideal: Small waves Suits: Everyone Description: Short, thick and wide. Construction: Burford PU foam, Surf 9 4oz glass and Silmar resin. Fins: Yes. however many you need. Shaper comment: Small wave summer board that should go ok in winter too.
Shaper: D ean “Dino” Tziolis Specs: 5’10” x 20 ¼” x 2 3/8” Ideal: If you’re not sure about buying a fish or a shortboard, this is the board you’re looking for two boards in one. Great for point or beach breaks. Description: Unbelievable paddle power, wave catcher, super fun to ride. Easy turns. High performance on small waves and plenty of rocker for medium surf. Super fast and very forgiving. Custom tattoo art by one of Australia’s cutting edge and leading tattoo artists, Marco Ventura. Plenty of designs to choose from and the option to have custom art developed for your individual style. Construction: PU Core South Coast blanks, top quality glassing, Future or FCS Fusion fins. High quality art decal inlays. Shaper comment: Inkside Surfboards are a quality brand with tried and tested experience, producing boards from three Gold Coast shapers with over 30 years of experience.
Shaper: D ean “Dino” Tziolis Specs: 5’10” x 20” x 2½” Ideal: 1-4 ft beach breaks and points. Great shorey for summer waves. Suits beginner to advanced. Description: Fast, loose and radical. Easy to surf, great for airs and reverses. Fish dimensions that go like a short board! Single concave, swallow tail and custom tattoo art by one of Australia’s cutting edge and leading tattoo artists, Marco Ventura. Plenty of designs to choose from and the option to have custom art developed for your individual style. Construction: PU Core South Coast blanks, top quality glassing, Future or FCS Fusion fins. High quality art decal inlays. Shaper comment: Inkside Surfboards are a quality brand with tried and tested experience, producing boards from three Gold Coast shapers with over 30 years of experience.
MT WOODGEE SURFBOARDS Stores at Coolangatta, Currumbin, Burleigh Heads Ph: 07 5535 0288 www.mtwoodgee.com.au
MT WOODGEE SURFBOARDS Stores at Coolangatta, Currumbin, Burleigh Heads Ph: 07 5535 0288 www.mtwoodgee.com.au
LEE CHEYNE DESIGNS 19/48 Machinery Dr, Tweed Heads South NSW 2486 Ph: 07 5523 3237 lcdboards@gmail.com myspace.com/454626994 tradewindsurf.com.au w ww.facebook.com/ people/Lee-CheyneSurfboards/1620685674
INKSIDE SURFBOARDS Ph: 0431 455 928 info@tattoosurfnink.com www.tattoosurfnink.com
INKSIDE SURFBOARDS 1/2098 Gold Coast Highway Miami QLD 4220 Ph: 0431 455 928 info@tattoosurfnink.com www.tattoosurfnink.com jan/feb 2012
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THE EQUALISER
DIAMOND TAIL
Shaper: D ave Parkes Specs: 6’2” x 24½” x 3 5/8” Ideal conditions: Beach and point breaks. Description: The same outline as I surf myself, this is my most popular shape but made to suit a surfer of 120kg plus Note, 3 5/8” thickness. Not just a floater or a blob! Low rails, particularly through tail, give bite and a feeling of carve. A single to double concave for performance. Construction: PU or EPS and epoxy. Strong 6oz glass and extra kneepatch for heavy landings! Fins: 4-fin set up using bigger templates. Shaper comment: If you’re a big guy and want performance but don’t want an extra-long or wide board just to get bouyancy,then this is the way to go. Adapatable to tri-fin shapes and other outlines like area rounded pins and diamond tails.
Shaper: D ave Parkes Specs: 6’0” x 24” x 3” Ideal: Beach and point breaks. Suits: This board’s dimensions are suited to a rider in the 90-100kg range for all-round surfing. Description: Today’s version of the boards I surfed in the 80s, but with modern refinements. The flyer gives a release point when wanted, but the flute on the top rail taps into the wave in longer turns for drive. Construction: Top quality PU foam, resin and glass.The polished finish coat accentuates this. Fins: Mostly made as a 4 -fin or a tri with big sides and small centre. Shaper comment: An easy-paddling all-rounder.
KNEEBOARD
KNEEBOARD
THROWDOWN SKIMBOARD Shaper: L eighton Clark Which one to choose: S - 50kg or below M - 50-75kg L - 75kg (pictured) XL - 90kg + Ideal: Shorey, with a sick backwash or glistening sandbars. Suits: Anyone looking for fun at the water's edge Description: All Throwdown skimboards are vacuum-bagged using 5/8 or 3/4 Divinycell core, epoxy resin, E glass with double wraps. Construction: Custom options include taper nose and tail, S glass, carbon, carbon stringers, board size and template, colours and artwork, decal placements. the choice is yours!! Fins: Don't be silly Shaper comment: We also supply Throwdown tail pads and arch bars
CUSTOM KNEEBOARDS CUSTOM KNEEBOARDS B Y R O N
B A Y
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A U S T R A L I A
PARKES AUSTRALIA 4/83 Centennial Circuit Byron Bay, NSW Ph: 02 6685 6627 E: d-par@bigpond.com parkesaustralia.com
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B Y R O N
B A Y
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A U S T R A L I A
PARKES AUSTRALIA 4/83 Centennial Circuit Byron Bay, NSW Ph: 02 6685 6627 E: d-par@bigpond.com parkesaustralia.com
CLARK SURFBOARDS 20 Cottage Road, Hackham SA E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au
M: 0422 443 789
Available at www.onboardsurf.com.au
BRAD’S MICRO MAL Shaper: Paul Carson Dimensions: 6’6” x 21¾ x 2 5/8 “ Ideal conditions: Anything up to serious size. Suits: Anyone Description: Mal nose area, short board tail. Nose width is 18” and tail width 14 ½” with 5 ½” diamond tail. Light concave through to double concave in tail. Construction: Burford blank, resin colour painted on the blank. Fins: Box single with small sides. Shaper comment: Done a few variations in this idea. Really manoeuvrable and easy to surf and can be a nose rider.
THE FACTORY SURFBOARDS CALOUNDRA 17 Allen Street Caloundra QLD 4551 Ph: 07 5492 5838
factorysurf@southernfoam.com.au thefactorysurfboards.com.au
CHRIS’ TRIPLE STRINGER Shaper: Paul Carson Dimensions: 9’3” x 23 ½” x 3” Ideal conditions: Anything, but definitely great point board. Suits: Anyone who wants little more surface area = stability. Description: Light concave under nose running 2/ 3 to the tail into slight vee. Construction: Burford blank, full 6oz glass job (green tint) over green resin brushed on panels. Fins: Single fin box. Shaper comment: Great all round mal, more pulled in tail for maneuverability.
THE FACTORY SURFBOARDS CALOUNDRA 17 Allen Street Caloundra QLD 4551 Ph: 07 5492 5838 factorysurf@southernfoam.com.au thefactorysurfboards.com.au
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SPIRIT BOARD
Shaper: Mitchell Rae
Shaper: Mitchell Rae
Specs: 9’4” x 23” x 3 ¼”
Specs: 6’8” x 18 ¾” x 2 ½”
Suits: Beach, reef and point breaks
Suits: Beach, reef and point breaks
Description: Back to the 60’s... Walk, trim and glide.
Description: V2 Flex construction with a deep single concave and spiral chine entry.
This board features classic lines, 50/50 rails rolled bottom and nose concave. Construction: 8oz glass, pigments tints, gloss and polish Fins: Single fin Shaper comment: Generating awesome feedback from the beach. These boards draw on the shaper’s experience of learning to surf on 60’s longboards.
Construction: PU foam, strong, light glassing, gloss and polish Fins: Single fin Shaper comment: Designed for some serious fun soul surfing in any kind of waves. Broaden your mind, elevate your spirit
OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 7 Bayldon Drive, Raleigh, NSW
OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 7 Bayldon Drive, Raleigh, NSW
Ph: 02 6655 7007
Ph: 02 6655 7007
info@outerislandsurfboards.com outerislandsurfboards.com
outerisland.blogspot.com
info@outerislandsurfboards.com outerislandsurfboards.com
outerisland.blogspot.com
CARBON FIBRE MINI MAL Specs: 7’6” x 21 1/8” x 2 7/8” Ideal Conditions: 1-4ft Suits: Caters for all types and age surfers and handles well in most conditions. Description: Carbon Fibre Mini Mal made from recycled foam and environmentally friendly resin. Lightweight, super strong and durable. Polished mirror finish looks amazing. Construction: Carbon fibre, recycled EPS foam, low VOC epoxy resin Fins: Comes Carbon fibre/ bamboo FCS-compatible fins. Thruster setup. Pricing: $1250 (inc GST) Comes in a package including hemp boardbag, carbon fibre/bamboo fins, recycled leash and organic wax. Groovy Baby!
ECOTEC SURFBOARDS Torquay, VIC Ph: 0417 520 052 E: info@ecotecsurfboards.com www.ecotecsurfboards.com
THE KING FISH Shaper: Michael Cundith Length: 6’10” - 8’ Width: 22” - 24” Thickness: 3” - 3 ½” Ideal condition: Most Suits: Older surfers Description: This fish is between the Dart and the Whale fish. Construction: Strong Fins: Twin keels, or alternately 4 or 5 fins. Shaper comment: Great fun performer that catches waves easily, turns and trims. The King Fish holds in well as fins are set back on the tail.
MICHAEL CUNDITH SURF DESIGNS Ph: 02 6685 8778 3 Banksia Dve, Byron Bay Industrial Estate BYRON BAY NSW 2481 E: info@mcsurf.com.au www.mcsurf.com.au
THE STUBBIE Shaper: Michael Cundith Dimensions: 6’ x 21 ½” x 2 ¾” or custom made to any size Ideal: Small to medium surf Suits: All types of surfer Description: A remake of my 1960’s model with an updated bottom shape and rocker, with slight concave chines and bottom to tail pod vee. Great for paddling into waves, fantastic for late take-offs as it’s wide and stable, and accelerates instantly. You can actually feel it rise up on top of the water. 5-fin setup works perfectly for the wide tail. It holds in, is still loose and has heaps of drive with amazing trim speed. It can be made to any size. Construction: Strong and not too heavy Fins: Single or twin keel, 3 ,4 and 5 Shaper comment: This board is a winner - we are getting heaps of favorable feedback.
MICHAEL CUNDITH SURF DESIGNS Ph: 02 6685 8778 3 Banksia Dve, Byron Bay Industrial Estate BYRON BAY NSW 2481 E: info@mcsurf.com.au www.mcsurf.com.au jan/feb 2012
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS
THE LOG
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GEAR: BOARDS
SHAPER’S PROMOTION
MANGROVE JACK LOG
Shaper: J ed Done
Specs: 9’4” x 23” x 2 7/8”
Shaper: G reg Brown Specs: 9’1” x 21 ¾” x 2 ¾”
Ideal: Ankle to head high, depending on ability level.
Description: It’s a performer, say no more.
Suits: Point beaks and fun peelers.
Construction: PU foam polyester resin, 6 oz bottom, 12 oz deck, pigments, built to last
Ability: Beginner to pro. Description: Old school log shape with roll bottom and pinched 50/50 rails, very light nose concave in the front quarter. Construction: Dion foam. Hot chocolate pigment bottom, orange tint deck, white resin pinlines, full gloss, 6 x 4 oz bottom, 6 x 6 x 4 oz deck. Fins: I made a 9 ½” George Greenough template orange tint fin, in a 10” box. Shaper comment: Surfed it last night and it was so much fun!.
BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS Merimbula NSW Ph: 0409 813 431 E: jed@bushrat.com www.bushrat.com 156
THE BIG TOP
Fins: 2 + 1 Shaper comment: It’s a performer hands down. Stand on the back and give it a wack. Stand on the front and it bucks like a &$!#. Zak Surfboards has a huge range of Bombora surfboards in store. Customs from Greg Brown can be ordered through Zak Surfboards in Melbourne.
ZAK SURFBOARDS 307 Victoria Road Thornbury VIC 3071 Ph: 03 9416 7384 Mobile: 0438 416 738 zak@zaksurfboards.com zaksurfboards.com
Shaper: D ave Boyd Specs: 9’5” x 23 ¼” x 3 1/8” Ideal: Comfortable 1-4ft, anything from small points to A-framed beachies. Description: A modern nose rider, it catches waves and lets you noseride with ease. One of the most popular models in the Imperial range, this board is the for the surfer looking to own one longboard, or looking to become more proficient at noseriding without sacrificing turning. Construction: Bottom shape has a single flow nose concave that blends to r/vee then spiral vee through the tail. These features allow the boards turning and with its 19 ¾” nose riding capabilities, to really shine. PU blank 7.5mm stringer with double 6oz deck and 6oz bottom with tail patch. Tinted and pigmented polyester resins. Fins: 2+1 fin set up Shaper comment: the Big Top has been one of our best sellers because of its versatility. One board many options.
ZAK SURFBOARDS 307 Victoria Road Thornbury VIC 3071 Ph: 03 9416 7384 Mobile: 0438 416 738 zak@zaksurfboards.com zaksurfboards.com
VANE LOG Shaper: S ean Nettleton Specs: 9’4” x 23” x 3” Ideal: 2ft clean peelers Suits: from 1 - 3ft surf. Ability level: Beginner to advanced. Description: Concave nose into rolled bottom, a lot of tail rocker to aid noseriding and turning. Construction: Surf Blanks hard grade foam 6 x 6 x 6. Fins: Single fin box. Shaper comment: Perfect board if you wanna spend a bit more time on the nose but still want to do some turns... If you call into Zaks and want more info on the boards, just get one of the boys to give me a ring to have a chat.
ZAK SURFBOARDS 307 Victoria Road Thornbury VIC 3071 Ph: 03 9416 7384 Mobile: 0438 416 738 zak@zaksurfboards.com zaksurfboards.com
WAVE CONTROLLER Shaper: Stewart Maxwell Specs: 7’8” x 22” x 2 5/8” Ideal conditions: 3-6ft Ability: Medium to high Description: Concave bottom, 4mm vee and double concave through fins. Construction: 6 x 4oz deck, 6oz bottom Fins: Quad, Raptor system Shaper’s Comment: Not to be discounted, high performance rail, this board performs if pushed and driven!! Custom shaped to your requirement. Fin combo, your choice. Fitted with SBT Surfboard Tracker security systems. As a custom specialist with 40 years experience. I make surfboards with personality, talk with you, find out exactly what you require and then make it.
MAXIMUM SURF PTY LTD Currumbin QLD 4223 Ph: 07 5559 5940 Mob: 0400 338 098 maximumsurf@bigpond.com
maximumsurfdesigns.com
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decades of real curves for those who can feel the difference since ‘76
surfboards direct call robbie page ed sinnott 0401040862 040405932
espsurfboards.com espsurfshop.com.au jan/feb 2012
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MISSING-LINK
THE FROTHER
Shaper: Ryan Bridges
Shaper: Ryan Bridges Dimensions: 5’10” x 19 ¼” x 2 7/16” Suits: Good surfer, 75-80kg Ability: Intermediate to advanced surfers. Description: All about high performance surfing in small waves. We’ve incorporated the ‘shorter, wider, thicker, flatter’ principles that make fishes work into a high performance shortboard package, so you don’t have to compromise performance when the waves get tiny! Perfect companion to your standard shortboard or a brilliant all-rounder, the Frother has been by far our most popular model over the last year because it suits Cronulla’s beaches perfectly.
Dimensions: Custom made for you. Above, 6’2” x 19 ½” x 2 5/8” Ability: Learning on a foamy? This is your first fibreglass board. Description: Working closely with Cronulla Surfing Academy we identified a need for a better stepping stone to progress from beginner equipment to a shortboard. This provides a perfect balance of the performance benefits of a shortboard-style outline with the ease of paddle and balance of more introductory equipment.
THE FROW
TRANSPLANT
STUMPY-RAY
Shaper: Ryan Bridges
Shaper: R yan Bridges
Shaper: R yan Bridges
Dimensions: 5’11” x 19” x 2 3/8”
Dimensions: 6’0” x 18 7/8” x 2 5/16”
Suits: Good surfer, 75-80kg
Suits: Good surfer, 75kg
Ability: Intermediate to advanced surfers.
Ability: Intermediate to advanced surfers.
Dimensions: Generous amount of volume for an average sized surfer. 5’8” x 20 ¼” x 2 ½”
Description: A super short shortboard designed to be ridden in a far greater range of both size and conditions than the Frother. The secret is both in the extended exit rocker and the pulled-in roundtail. They’ve been added to the package to help the board hold its rail better when tighter in the pocket, giving you more control and more rail to drive off, whilst still being super responsive because of its compact size.
Description: The result of our long quest to create a better beachbreak-oriented shortboard. Ridden around 1-2” shorter and ¼” - 3/8” wider than your traditional shortboard. A more compact package at home both in the pocket and above the lip. The foam has been centered under your feet and chest for control. The entry has essentially been shortened whilst its exit has been wound up a gear. This is the latest installment in the evolution of the high performance shortboard and reflects the boards being ridden by the world’s best surfers today.
Suits: A fun board for everyone! Description: A shorter, thicker version of the popular StingRay model. Designed for smaller, weaker summer conditions. The rocker and volume distribution have been adjusted to create a more dynamic package and the outline has been condensed to create a tighter arc whilst introducing straighter sections between the feet to increase drive. It’s a truly modern take on the age-old problem of a board that will get you keen to go surfing regardless of the conditions!
RBSHAPES : HAND MADE : IN CRONULLA Force9 Surfboards, 43 Captain Cook Dr, Caringbah, 2229 Phone: 0432 154 740 Email: bridgy@rbshapes.com.au www.rbshapes.com.au 158
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Shaper: Jesse Watson Dimensions: 9’6” x 23” x 3 1/8” Ideal conditions: Up to head high sliders Suits: Hepcats to kooks, kicks flicks and hanging heels. Description: Traditional pig-inspired modern sled, but with modernised rockers and foils for the logger who wants to noseglide and whipturn like it aint no thang. Construction: 6/4oz deck + 6/4oz bottom resin tints, 60’s comp stripe and a full gloss and polish. Fins: Black Apache revised D-fin Shaper comment: This one is a modern sled for the discerning kook, traditional in looks - but a real hotrod under your feet. It’ll flash you a smile and then punch you in the face.
black apache surfboards
BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS Ph: 0410 419 791 blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au
blackapachesurfboards.com.au
MINI SIMMONS DELUXE Shaper: Jesse Watson Dimensions: 5’4” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾” Ideal conditions: Up to head high sliders Ideal conditions: Whatever you wanna try. I ride mine from the goldy to indo. Suits: Ricky-Bobby (Talledega Nights) “I just wanna go fast!” Description: Fast... so fast it’ll peel your eyes outta their sockets. Super wide and stable, this board has been dubbed the “section connection.” You’ll get the fastest, longest rides of your life on the Simmons. Construction: 6/4oz deck + 6oz bottom, full resin art stripes gloss and polish, glass on leash loop - proper old skool. Fins: Matching, custom tint glass-ons. Shaper comment: Are you feeling uninspired with your surfing, a little bored or dull? The Simmons will put the fun back into your life. Just in time for summer.
black apache surfboards
BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS Ph: 0410 419 791
blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au
blackapachesurfboards.com.au
THE WIZZ
DUMPSTER-ISH
RASTA TWIN FISH
Shaper: P eter Sheely Length: 5” - 7” Width: 21”- 22” Thickness: 2 ¾”- 3 ¼ ”
Shaper: Steve Barber Specs: 5’10” x 19 5/8“ x 2 5/16“ Ideal: Everyday surf Suits: The surfer looking for a fun, small board. They average 5’5” to 5’9” and can be easily scaled up in size for the heavier surfer. Ability: Average through to punt masters. Description: Flat rocker allowed by the centre width, so great paddler. Construction: Still the best way. i.e. Polyurethane... Burford blank with Silmar resin and Surf 9 4oz glass. Fins: Customers choice of brand of removable fins. Shaper comment: A great little all round Dumpster Diver-style board for all sorts of conditions. Can be single into double concave, single concave, concave to vee or simple rolled vee... And any tail shape.
Shaper: Steve Barber Specs: 5’11” x 20 5/8“ x 2 3/8“ Ideal: Designed for slop but also loves hollow, A-frame beachies Suits: Anyone wanting a summer board! Ability: Anyone - even Kelly! Description: Late nose tweak for not catching in hollow waves. Flat entry and exit for speed. Single to double concave with tail vee. Construction: Still the best way. i.e. Polyurethane... Burford blank with Silmar resin and Surf 9 4oz glass. Fins: Usually glass ons Shaper comment: This model has normal rails with a chamfer to the flat deck, giving it the ability to hold in on hollow waves as the rails are able to penetrate, but the flat, high-volume deck won’t allow bogging in summer slop.
Ideal conditions: Beach and point breaks. Suits: Anyone who wants to have fun, it’s a fun board that suits most surfers from beginners to experts. Description: Fun surfboard for all around conditions. Construction: Choice of stringers, colours, tints, pigment, or sprays. 4oz or 6oz normal glass - you choose! Fins: Quad, tri-fin or single fin. Shaper comment: Small, flexible fun board with 70s/80s design using modern technology.
PETER SHEELY SURFBOARDS Ph: 02 4957 3161 Mob: 0417 264 739 peter@sheelysurfboards.com
sheelysurfboards.com
STEVE BARBER/FULL FORCE
18/48 Machinery Drive Tweed Heads South Ph: 07 5524 2933 fullforcesurf@hotmail.com Join us on Facebook
STEVE BARBER/FULL FORCE
18/48 Machinery Drive Tweed Heads South Ph: 07 5524 2933 fullforcesurf@hotmail.com Join us on Facebook jan/feb 2012
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS
SWINE FLU
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fell in y l l a “Tot and th it i w e an lov ame c e b n.” t i passio e t u l abso
A SALT-ENCRUSTED JOURNEY Bronte Bampton, shaper of Liquid Stix Surfboards in South Australia, gives us an honest, matter of fact account of where his shaping is today as only surfers from these parts can: No time for grandstanding, just straight to the point. “Salt in the blood, from a young surfer to a commercial fisherman working 20 years mostly on the west coast of South Australia, 600km from Adelaide, that’s me. Took up shaping six years ago, after having made some boards in late 60s and early 70s. “Totally fell in love with it and it became an absolute passion. There were lots of ups and downs in the early stages, especially when I was fishing and trying to make boards at the same time. But with lots of patience and small steps, the boards began to improve in all areas. “The west coast is such a great proving area for surfboard design with such a great variety of waves in one area.” Bronte’s son, Chris was his first board tester and his harshest critic, as only sons can be. But as Bronte explains it, his son’s tough, honest feedback enabled him to get his shortboards working really well. Another young surfer helped develop the Liquid Stix quad, the Skipjack, a board that has proven to be a really good seller. Bronte himself is the shaper-comegear-tester, along with South African surfer Craig Potgieter, when it comes to his fishes and mals.
PHOTO: Kingsley Smith
Meet South Australian shaper, Bronte Bampton of Liquid Stix Surfboards.
Within a short period Bronte picked up quite a few team riders who were competing in local and interstate comps and what resulted was a lot of travelling backwards and forwards to Adelaide. When a steady stream of sales followed, it was time to take Liquid Stix Surfboards to the big smoke and as Bronte puts it, “stand up against the established shapers”. “We are still settling into the city. The transition from the pristine remoteness of the west coast to the city has been difficult. What was particularly trying initially was finding premises to work out of. I was working here and there, trying to get boards made and it wasn’t good. My delivery times blew out and a couple of boards were a bit off the pace.
WORDS: DAVE SWAN
“I ended setting up my surfboard factory at the back of Cutloose’s premises in Lonsdale and the boys at Cutloose and Preece’s South Port Surf at Port Noarlunga South now handle all my custom orders. “I never thought in my wildest dreams I would go from a tin shed on a remote property to surf central in Adelaide with a number of team riders doing well on my boards. With my team riders, who are all pretty close to me now, the challenge is to make boards that not only perform well, but suit their individual surfing style. They are all such different surfers.” But honing boards to suit diverse surfing styles has developed Bronte’s skills towards tailor-making finely tuned custom craft for the everyday surfer. “As a surfboard shaper it’s so difficult to break into the marketplace. You are up against all the big names on the east coast and overseas. It’s about building confidence in your product. I find if I am in the wrong surroundings or mindset, my boards are crap. You have to be constantly thinking outside the square, making and testing new ideas. “I remember saying to someone if you’re not passionate about surfboards, I don’t see how you can make them. The Liquid Stix journey is only short but there is positive progress. It’s fun making boards, teaching surfing and surfing... living the dream.”
For more about Liquid Stix, pop into Cutloose or Preece’s in South Australia, or visit the Liquid Stix website at www.liquidstix.com.au 160
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SKIP JACK
Shaper: Bronte Bampton Specs: 9’1” x 22 ½” x 2 3/8”- 3” Suits: 1-6 ft average to quality surf Description: Standard mal for all level surfers. Single concave with slight doubles through fins. Medium entry with average tail lift med/low rails. Construction: PU blank, FGI resins, Aerolite cloth. Stock: 6 x 6 x 6 Fins: Fin box plus stabilisers – can be ordered in quad. Shaper comment: This is our most popular mal which suits absolutely everyone whether you are a beginner or experienced.
Shaper: Bronte Bampton Specs: 6’0” x 19 ½” x 2 3/8” Suits: Average to very experienced surfer Description: A good all-round board that adapts to most conditions. Great wave catcher, fast and very responsive. Single to deep double quad. Available in sizes from 5’ to 6’6”. Construction: PU foam, FGI polyester resins, Aerolite cloth. Fins: Quad. Shaper comment: This board was tested on the West Coast of SA and the prototype was ridden in 1ft mush to 5ft+ quality surf. It just kept performing extremely well in all conditions. This would have to be one of my best selling boards, each new owner gives it the thumbs up and great reviews.
LIQUID STIX SURFBOARDS Moana, South Australia Ph: 0407 606 685 E: liquidstix@bigpond.com
LIQUID STIX SURFBOARDS Moana, South Australia Ph: 0407 606 685 E: liquidstix@bigpond.com
www.liquidstix.com.au Available @ MCS & Preece’s
www.liquidstix.com.au Available @ MCS & Preece’s
FATHER AND SON
FUNNAMATTA
THE PEE WEE
Shaper: Woody Jack
Shaper: Rory Oke
Shaper: Peter White
Dimensions: 5’9” x 21 ½“ x 2 5/8 “
Dimensions: 5’2” x 19 ¼” x 2 3/8”
Glasser: Brett White
Suits: Smaller waves
Ideal conditions: Sucky beachies
Length: 6ft - 7’6” Thickness: 2” - 2 ½” Width: 18 ½” - 19 ½”
Ability: From 3 year old beginners to advanced surfers Description: Slight single to double concave.with wider nose and tail - an area short board designed for my 3 ½ year old son. Construction: Burford blank glassed with Surf 9 fiberglass and Silmar resin Fins: FCS FK2 Shaper comment: This board is all about area and stability, but with all the elements of a performance board (so that I can get a few on the smaller days after the little fellas done.)
WOODY JACK SURFBOARDS AUSTRALIA
Unit 7, 25 Leonard Parade, Currumbin QLD Ph: 0415 789 706 E: wjboards@gmail.com www.woodyjack.com
Suits: Everyone Description: Super-deep double concave. Heaps of tail kick. Construction: Ocean Foam blank, hand-shaped. Fins: 5 fin setup. Speeedfins ceramic series. Shaper comment: Team rider Meatballs’ take on a Nathan Fletcher/Stretch design. Created for skateinspired surfing.
Finishing: Ricky
Ideal: Small to sizeable. Beach break - Points Reef break. Description: This board is a scaled down model of a proper 9ft board (not just a mini mal). Generally made as a custom to suit the size and weight of the young rider who use them. Construction: PU Foam. 6mm stringer. 6oz bottom, 6 + 4oz deck. Fins: 2 + 1 or thruster fins. Shaper comment: This is a true nose-rider for the grommets out there who want to nose-ride and walk the board like their dad’s (usually better)!
OKE SURFBOARDS 1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC, 3195 Ph: 03 9587 3553 okesurfboards.com
CLASSIC MALIBU Cnr Gibson & Eumundi Rd Noosaville, QLD 4566 Ph: 07 5474 3122 info@classicmalibu.com www.classicmalibu.com jan/feb 2012
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS STANDARD MAL
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BG SHORTBOARD
BD FISH
Shaper: Greg Hogan Length: 6’1” - 7’6” Width: 19 ½” - 21” Thickness: 2 ½” - 3” Description: Perfect for the intermediate, heavier or older surfer who still wants to surf a shortboard. A fuller outline and more nose area, combined with a round tail make this board very easy to paddle, yet keeps the performance feel. Also perfect for the next step from your first board! Construction: Handshaped PU blank, 6 and 4oz deck, 6 or 4oz bottom. Fins: FCS or Futures in a thruster setup. Shaper comment: I really try to set the dimensions to suit each individual rider, but this extension of my standard performance shortboard definitely has the same feel. It can seem like you’re riding something a lot smaller than it actually is.
Shaper: Glyndyn Ringrose Length: 5’6” - 6’6” Width: 19” - 21 ½" Thickness: 2 ¼” - 2 ¾" Description: A loose and skatey feel underfoot, this performance fish works well in small to medium sized surf. A rounder outline and bottom curve combined with single/ double concave and a diamond tail adds up to a whole lot of summer fun! Construction: Handshaped PU blank, 6 and 4oz deck, 4oz bottom. Fins: FCS or Futures in a thruster or quad setup. Shaper comment: Fast becoming one of our most popular designs, especially leading into the summer months. As always, the custom option allows you to tweak specifications to suit your needs.
ISLAND SURFBOARDS 147 Thompson Ave, Cowes, Phillip Island VIC Ph: 03 5952 2578 E: cowes@ islandsurfboards.com.au islandsurfboards.com.au
ISLAND SURFBOARDS 147 Thompson Ave, Cowes, Phillip Island VIC Ph: 03 5952 2578 E: cowes@ islandsurfboards.com.au islandsurfboards.com.au
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EARLY 90s STYLE THRUSTER Shaper: J ordie Brown Specs: 6’3” x 19 ¼” x 12½” x 13 ¾” x 2 5/8” Ideal: Anything with a bit of juice. Suits: The surfer looking for an alternative to your standard thruster shortboard in progressive waves. Description: Based on 90s-style thrusters, with low rocker and plenty of volume. Construction: Light 6oz/40z trimmed lap glass-job, lime green resin tint and a full gloss coat with wet rubbed finish. Fins: Handmade glass-on thruster. Shaper comment: This is one of the most exciting sticks in my quiver when the waves are on, really!
9’8 NOSERIDER Shaper: J ordie Brown Board dimensions: 9’8” x 23 ¼” x 19” x 16” x 3 ” Ideal: Waist to shoulder high peelers. Suits: Any surfer after a stable nose rider that surfs. Description: The combination of subtle tail lift, wide, Californian square tail, rolled vee bottom and full 50/50 rails makes this noserider design surprisingly manoeuvrable without losing any stability trimming and on the nose. Construction: Heavy tinted glass job with 2’’ solid paulownia stringer. Fins: 10’’ pivot fin. Shaper comment: Based on the heavier old school style of construction of the mid-sixties, this noserider is the perfect board for the surfer wanting to experience the glide and movement of a era past.
FIVE FOOTER Shaper: J ordie Brown Board dimensions: 5’0” x 21¾” x 17” x 17” x 2 ¾” Ideal: Longboard waves. Suits: The surfer looking for a shortboard for grovelly waves. Description: Short flat and fast! Construction: Light 6oz/4oz trimmed lap glass-job Fins: Handmade timber twin keels. Shaper comment: The most surfed board in my quiver!
HIGH TIDE SURFBOARDS Skenes Creek, Vic 3233 Ph: 0401 437 392
HIGH TIDE SURFBOARDS Skenes Creek, Vic 3233 Ph: 0401 437 392
HIGH TIDE SURFBOARDS Skenes Creek, Vic 3233 Ph: 0401 437 392
hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com
hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com
hightidesurfboards@hotmail.com
hightidesurfboards.com
hightidesurfboards.com
hightidesurfboards.com
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS MAIN: Jeames Young gets airborne. LEFT: Goofy footer Scott Newman gives the Rodent a spin. RIGHT: Dean Chelin has a float about PHOTOS: Jarrason Bitton
THE RODENT Shaper: Scott Newman Specs: 4’8” x 22 ¼” X 2 ½” Ideal conditions: Small to chest high. Suits: Anyone that wants to have fun and go fast! Description: Small, wide and fast. Deep single concave, medium rail, flat and fun. A great board for the open-minded surfer. Construction: Foam and fibreglass Fins: Future K2 twin fins Shaper comment: One of the fastest, funnest boards I’ve ridden in a while. Definitely my favourite board this summer.
SLS SURFBOARDS 2/57 George St, Moffat Beach, QLD 4551 Ph: Scott 0424 314 183 slssurfboards.com.au jan/feb 2012
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95 PORNO SERIES
LAGUNA BAY SUP
BAMBOO WARRIOR
BAMBOO SUP
FISH SOFT BOARD
Shaper: Glenn ‘Cat’ Collins Shaping experience: About six weeks Boards made: Don’t count Description: This was made for right-handers, BUT to my surprise I have had some great lefts on it... A challenge: To Ralph Riddell... I challenge you to a shape off. One freak functional and one non functional. To be ready by next summer and exposed in smorgasboarder. Rules: Boards have to be made after this issue. No ‘this is one I prepared earlier’ crap. Anyone else is free to challenge. To the winner: Morning glory, a mag of the same description and a packet of xtra-light alpine ciggies.
Shaper: Tully St.John
Designer: Mark Proberts Dimensions: 10’ x 30” x 4 ½” Ideal: For up to 100kg riders, in waves up to 6Ft. Description: This is a quad fin fish Stand Up Paddle Board, with a back fin box. You have the choice to ride it as a thruster or a quad. Designed specifically for the surf, it is a great board for surfers who want to start riding waves on a SUP. It rides the same as most fish surfboards - fast through the flat sections and turns on a dime. Construction: High density EPS Core, 6mm wood stringer. Top: 2 x 6oz glass deck + 2 bamboo layers. Bottom: 2 x 6oz glass + 1 bamboo layer. Fins: 10” centre box + 4 FCS quad fins set up. Designer comment: This is the type of board that suits most conditions with the single into double concave, and will leave a big smile on your dial.
Designer: Mark Proberts Dimensions: 10’6” x 31” x 4 ½” Ideal: For everyone. Great all rounder, flat water and surf up to 3Ft. Description: This is a 3 fin set up Stand Up Paddle Board. 10” back fin box with 2 FCS side fins. This is our biggest seller. Perfect first SUP board. Double concave keeps it paddling straight. Vee in the pin tail makes for easy turns. Construction: High density EPS Core, 6mm wood stringer. Top: 2 x 6oz glass deck + 1 bamboo layer. Bottom: 2 x 6oz glass. Fins: 10” centre box + 2 FCS side fins. Designer comment: This is our best design yet for an all rounder board. It comes in 11’, 10’6, 10’ and 9’6 to suit everyone. Will leave a big smile on your dial.
Designer: Mark Proberts Dimensions: 5’10” x 20” x 2 ½” Ideal: For fun beach breaks. Can be ridden within the flags. Suits: Most kids learning to surf, up to adults just mucking around. Description: This is a fish style soft surfboard. Fast and easy to turn. Construction: EPS Core, double wood stringer. HDPE bottom (speed skin). Deep fish tail. Heat laminated. Fins: Twin fin. Plastic, screw in. Designer comment: This is a great board for surf schools, kids or adults to have fun on. It also comes with EVA rail for extra heavy duty use.
SUN JAM AUSTRALIA Po Box 1469, Cronulla NSW 2230 Ph: 0435 754 800
SUN JAM AUSTRALIA Po Box 1469, Cronulla NSW 2230 Ph: 0435 754 800
SUN JAM AUSTRALIA Po Box 1469, Cronulla NSW 2230 Ph: 0435 754 800
info@sunjampaddleboards.com.au
info@sunjampaddleboards.com.au
info@sunjampaddleboards.com.au
Surfboards and surfing props for movies and ads SURF1770NOOSA.COM
surf1770@bigpond.com surf1770noosa.com 164
Size: 7ft to 11ft Ideal conditions: Small to medium size surf Ability level: Intermediate to advanced Suits: All shapes and sizes Description: Performance SUP Construction: Epoxy. Inegra carbon sandwich. Fin set-up: 2+1 or 4+1 Shaper comment: This is my newest performance model. The well-perfected bottom rocker and hotted up bottom contours create a supa fast responsive sup. I customise this model and hand make each one, with my well-groomed team in our Noosa factory. So if you’re looking to up the performance level and create something special, give us a call or email.
NOOSA SURFWORKS 11 Bartlett St, Noosaville QLD Ph: 07 5474 4567 E: info@noosasurfworks.com.au
noosasurfworks.com.au
sunjampaddleboards.com.au
sunjampaddleboards.com.au
sunjampaddleboards.com.au
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FLYING FISH
Shaper: Mark Riley Length:9’0’’ - 9’4’’ Width: 22 1/4’’ - 23’ Thickness: 2 1/2’’ - 3’’’ Ideal conditions: ½ - 5 ft Ability: Intermediate Description: Recycled EPS foam core and 2-3mm balsawood skin, weighing only 7-8 kg. Features triple stringer, 30mm apart, a Vee bottom with a rounded square tail. The rails are 70/30 on the nose, 80/20 in the centre and 90/10 in the tail. Construction: Balsa with EPS foam core. Fins: Single box fin and two smaller stabiliser fins. Shaper comment: The Performer combines the best of both worlds, designed and shaped for today’s high performance longboarding. Riley surfboards are made in Australia, have a 12-month warranty and are Micro-tagged to prevent theft. Custom orders are welcome.
Shaper: Mark Riley Length: 5’5’’ - 6’2’’ Width: 19 ½’’ - 21 ½’’ Thickness: 2 ½” - 3’’ Ideal conditions: ½ - 5 ft Ability level: Advanced to experienced Description: An EPS foam core performance fish which features stringerless flex and memory return. Can turn on a dime and drive when required. The 2 ½’’ thickness of the board under the chest area makes this board a great wave catcher. It’s flat from nose to centre with a double scoop concave at the swallow tail. Construction: Balsa with EPS foam core. Fins: Your choice of twin, keels or quad. Customer’s comment: “Love this. It has become my favourite board” Tom, Southern NSW Riley surfboards are made in Australia, have a 12-month warranty and are Micro-tagged to prevent theft. Custom orders are welcome.
RILEY SURFBOARDS Ph: 0412 376 464 E: mark@riley.com.au
RILEY SURFBOARDS Ph: 0412 376 464 E: mark@riley.com.au
balsasurfboardsriley.com.au
balsasurfboardsriley.com.au
THE STICK Shaper: Mark Riley Length: 5’2’’ - 6’8’’ Width: 18 1/2’’-20’’ Thickness: 2 1/2’’ -3’’ Ideal conditions: ½ - 9 ft Ability level: Advanced to experienced Description: A balsa skinned EPS foam core shortboard. No stringer and recycled EPS foam reduces weight, bringing the Stick to around 3kg. Features a Vee scoop in the tail to concave centre and concave nose, 80/20 rails and a swallow tail. Construction: Balsa with EPS foam core Fins: Thruster or quad Shaper comment: For summer’s small to medium waves, the Riley Stick is also available as a quad - way faster than your standard thruster or even twin fin and much more responsive. Riley surfboards are environmentally friendly and three times stronger than a regular PU board.
RILEY SURFBOARDS Ph: 0412 376 464 E: mark@riley.com.au
balsasurfboardsriley.com.au
THE NATIVE Shaper: Mark Riley Dimensions: 5’2’’- 6’8’’ x 18 ½’’- 20’’ x 2 ½ - 3’’ Ideal conditions: ½ - 6 ft Ability level: Beginners to mature Description: A balsa skinned EPS foam core shortboard. The recycled EPS foam and the absence of a stringer create a significant reduction in weight bringing The Native to merely 3kg (excluding fins). The result is a high performance surfboard with far greater strength and durability than your regular polyurethane board. Construction: Balsa with EPS foam core Fins: Thruster or quad Shaper comment: For summer and its small waves, The Native is a thruster thrasher for the larger or older generation who don’t want to go to a longboard or a fish – this is in between these.
RILEY SURFBOARDS Ph: 0412 376 464 E: mark@riley.com.au balsasurfboardsriley.com.au
THE MARLIN
Shaper: Mark Riley Dimensions: 5’0’’- 6’8’’ x 19 ½’’- 21 ½’’ x 2 ½ - 3’’ Ideal conditions: ½ - 5 ft Ability level: Advanced to experienced Description: The Marlin is a EPS foam core performance fish which features our unparallel stringers. During turns, these drive the energy to the tail of the board for clean, crisp, powerful carves. The 2 ½’’ thickness of the board under the chest area makes this board a great wave catcher. Construction: Balsa with EPS foam core Fins: Your choice of twin, keels or quad Shaper comment: The Marlin is as light as a regular polyurethane fish. It’s easy to paddle making it easy to catch waves, and the swallow tail really helps you in sharp turns.
RILEY SURFBOARDS Ph: 0412 376 464 E: mark@riley.com.au
balsasurfboardsriley.com.au
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SHAPER’S PROMOTION
GEAR: BOARDS
PERFORMER
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BOARDS WITH WHEELS
Early Skateboards and Trinity Distribution hooked us up with safety gear to demonstrate what happens when you don’t armour up...
IT’S NEVER TOO EARLY WHEN YOU SPEAK TO AUSTIN MONCRIEFF OF EARLY SKATEBOARDS ABOUT SKATING, THE FIRST WORDS OUT OF HIS MOUTH, WITHOUT FAIL, WILL BE ABOUT SAFETY.
THIS IS YOUR MELON... 1.
“Safety first, for sure. Especially with downhill. Cruising at the beach you might not need slide gloves, a helmet and kneepads, but going downhill you can’t just jump off and run.”
2.
But it’s not just talk. The Early team live it, and are only too happy to educate kids and others new to skating about the dangers of not wearing the right protective gear. Recently, Austin, along with Early artist Tommy Franklin and team rider Flavio Biehl, visited Nimbin Central School to share their stories and advice.
3.
WITH HELMET = OK
4.
5.
What better way to test melon protection than with a ripe, ready-to-eat rockmelon? Put it inbetween a couple of helmets, fling it really high in the air and watch it smack down onto the bitumen... Watching a video of Flavio taking a fall without a helmet a few years ago, the kids got to see the immediate impact of a head injury: Flavio dazed and confused, struggling to remember anything for the next hour. “If you’re gonna start skating, you need to think about safety.” Austin says. “If you want to try it out and can’t afford to buy a helmet, slide gloves and kneepads, make sure you borrow it off a friend. As far as slide gloves go, Austin suggests even making your own, rather than risking injury. “It’s not expensive to make. Go to your local hardware store, pick up some leather gardening gloves - the more fitted, the better. Get contact adhesive and perspex cutting board. Cut the board to the shape of your palm - a circle or square - whatever’s most comfortable for you. Use the adhesive to glue it to the glove. That’s how we started doing it.” The message seems to be getting out there as Austin says that downhill riders seen not wearing helmets are most definitely frowned upon. There are more school workshops planned so if you would like the Early team to visit your school, get in touch with them at www. earlyskateboards.com and check out the following Early videos:
Why you should wear a helmet skateboarding www.youtube.com/watch?v=VNvgLfWUYAo Nimbin Skate Safety Day www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjcqohNY6Ew
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On opening up our little package, we were over the moon to find that there was absolutely no damage whatsoever to our lunch and that the helmets themselves were intact, with only a few scratches to show for it.
WITHOUT HELMET!
6.
Ankle brace... A good option for those who like to walk.
When we repeated the experiment without the helmets protecting the melon, the result on impact was very, very different... While your head is a little tougher than a rockmelon, it’s good to put it in perspective - protection is better than no protection. Do it.
S-ONE helmet (blue - through Trinity) Comfy as hell, with a soft, sweat-sucking inliner. RRP $59.95 www.s-one.com NOODLES helmet (black, Early) Solid snowboard crossover with cool details like a chin strap protector and removable ear warmers RRP $59.95 earlyskateboards.com TRINTY pads. Awesome value. Sizes XS – XL. RRP $49.95 trinitydistribution.com.au
Wristguards, knee and elbow pads make up the Trinity pack jan/feb 2012
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N O I T A R A P E S
GEAR: SKATE
F O S L E E H W IS X
nal ditio a r t n na re o l – it’s a eed, ’ u o coo en y ur sp n wh t looking lling yo e an u f av the tro ou rt of t just ab ard, con ane to h u roll a p yo bo no ins s is way ard. It’s ng your e plain ly make yes… e. e d i i tual ther ing s uld b troll tebo ? Oh Gett hill ska t of con o, it wo ck to ac exciting her out t e r n dow rtant pa own... S r your d eveably m any o i d e o o l imp ing you els und . Unbe bord fr e s e slow set wh ane? Ye the Fre s s a extr ays. In eparate w s AN d si e ’s what APM H C K Here MAR : S RD WO
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GEAR: SKATE
LEFT: The “ Evolution Wall” shows the development of the Freebord from the earliest tests to the first final which Steen Strand patented in 1998 - the “Alpha” Freebords in 1998 which he began selling out of his garage in San Francisco.
San Francisco is where Steen, the inventor, was living at the time. It’s also world-renowned for its hills, which is what this board was made for.” John Laudin Production Manager at Freebord
"TO CARVE AND SLIDE IN AN INTEGRATED MOTION LIKE A SNOWBOARD DOES,
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Take a traditional skateboard. Take a traditional snowboard. Try and make them one and the same. Add bindings, a helmet, a touch of courage and the willingness to do a few spins on the concrete and you’re well on your way to experiencing one of the most fun rides ever on an exciting new discovery for us – the Freebord.
Rewind to 1996, when a University student in Palo Alto, California started out on a project to recreate the feel of a snowboard on the street. Steen Strand, inventor of the Freebord chose this idea of a skateboard that could drift and slide as you would in the snow as the subject of his thesis for a Masters in Product Design.
Now, the interesting thing about new discoveries is that often they’re not new at all. While the Freebord was an amazing slap in the face for me only a few short months ago, it’s been under development and growing in underground popularity for over 15 years now.
After graduating, Steen decided to keep at it. With any new idea in development, there were countless hours of experimentation as Steen worked hard out of a garage. The original idea for the rotating 360 degree wheel came from Steen watching a rider dig in an edge during a manouvre.
“I built two cam centre wheels and mounted them on a test deck that I had already used for earlier prototypes - it probably had a hundred holes drilled into it from trying different things.” he explains on the Freebord website. Combination upon combination of trucks and rotating wheels ultimately lead to the core design - a rotating centre wheel with some directional bias which allows for the sideways motion and extra wide trucks which allow for the unique style of board control. “In order to carve and slide in an integrated motion like a snowboard does, you have to have the ability to move laterally onto the street,”
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Y
S,
YOU HAVE TO HAVE THE ABILITY TO MOVE LATERALLY ONTO THE STREET" team rider Mike Hoppe explains. “You have these centre wheels that allow you to slide. These will basically turn in whichever direction you’re going and the outside wheels act like your edges. You actually rock back and forth over the centre wheel onto each edge.” The ride can pretty much be explained as follows: When a rider weights one side of the board (heelside or toeside), the opposite set of edge wheels are off of the ground and the board can then begin to slide in that direction. The weighted wheels will drag along the pavement, slowing the rider’s speed. As a result, riders can use slides to slow down or
stop, to navigate tight terrain and to spin or drift between carves. “It took me quite a while to get the hang of the Freebord,” says Mike. “It is a little bit tricky – there’s a steep learning curve, so the main advice that I would give to a new rider is to find other Freeborders in your area. See it being ridden, have them give you pointers on what to do, what to look out for, how to set up your board.” Finding Freeborders in your local area seems to be becoming easier. From humble beginnings on the hills of San Fransisco, well known to have some of the steepest streets in California, the Freebording movement has steadily gained
momentum with riders across the planet. All you have to do is check out the video section on the Freebord website to see all the locations across the globe where the boards are being put to good use, yet it’s far from a household name, which is exactly how it’s supposed to be. This is no overnight craze, but a legitimate new vehicle and way to ride. “I can’t really say that I’m sure it’s ever going to go mainstream,” says Mike. “I’m not really upset about that necessarily. It’s not for everybody. It’s a very dangerous thing and it’s difficult to learn as well, so it doesn’t surprise me that it may not be the next big
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BINDINGS
TH E B EA ST
GEAR: SKATE
thing. But for the people that are into it, the people that are inspired by it and are passionate about it, it’s just the sickest thing ever. It’s so fun to just go out and ride.” And that’s what it’s all about. So, how fun is it? See page 177. For more information, excellent video footage and to see the boards in action, visit the website at www.freebord.com and to order a board in Australia or NZ, visit www.freebordaustralia.com Thanks To Nick Cruit and Freebord for info and pics. Interview quotes from the Freebord website and video documentary by Payman Najafpour, Eric Grimaldo, Britney Alford and Pierre Nahoum online at: www.youtube.com/watch?v=EP_ XGAHbeDw
WIDE TRUCKS The boards are available with decks of varying sizes and materials, for riders of all weights and heights and are available as 7-ply maple, or BambooMaple hybrid decks, made with a 5 ply Canadian Rock Maple core and 2 ply (top and bottom) vertically laminated Phyllostachys high grade bamboo - the strongest natural material on earth relative to its weight.
SWIVELLING WHEELS UNDER THE DECK
"FOR THE PEOPLE THAT ARE INTO IT, THE PEOPLE THAT ARE INSPIRED BY IT AND ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT IT, IT'S JUST THE SICKEST THING EVER. IT'S SO FUN TO JUST GO OUT AND RIDE." jan/feb 2012
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THE FIRST LIMITED EDITION PRODUCTION BOARD
With cork deck!
BRAND NEW DECK & DESIGN!
“MEAT LOAF DELUXE” BY KOASTAL
“DART GREEN” BY GREMMIE
RRP: $299 Dimensions: 33” x 9” Deck: Aspen, Mahogany, Purple Heart and a mixture of green, blue, red, yellow, and orange dyed maple veneers with Lucid Grip. The core is 5-ply Maple. Deck shape: Slight concave, reverse camber Trucks: Revenge Alpha II, single pivot 45° torsion Bearings: Oil-filled Koastal Abec-5 Wheels: Koastal 65mm / 83a Durometer Description: Just like mum used to make, the Meat Loaf is made from the best of what’s leftover in the wood shop. It’s Koastal’s contribution to minimising waste. Every 6th deck, the stringer pattern changes. You’re unlikely to see the same board twice. Comment: Designed for carving, sidewalk surfing and the pure thrill of turning. Super tight turns are thanks to the external Revenge Truck locking mechanism. Turning has never been easier.
Dimensions: 28” x 8” Wheels: Green Jelly Gremmie 60mm 78A Trucks: Rukus with ½’’ risers Bearings: Abec-3 Pigs Description: The Gremmie Dart Green complete comes with that collective quality. You get the Gremmie logo on top and bottom with grip panels and great colors. The Abec-3 Pig bearings offer removable red chromium steel dent resistant shields, brass ball retainers, a 7 ball design. Grade 10 balls with silver inner and outer bearing steel. Super finish for a faster spin and easy to clean. Comment: A solid set up.
“RALLY” BY ARBOR
Suits: Barefoot Rippers Dimensions: 33.25” x 8.50” Deck: 7 Ply Maple with a Cork top sheet Wheels: 65mm (78a) Arbor Bio-Urethane Street Series Trucks: 9’’ Gullwing Charger Bearings: Abec-5 Description: BRAND NEW STREET SKATE! The cork surface is ideal for barefoot skating, but can weather any skate shoe abuse. Ideal for around town surf-inspired skating. Comment: A standout feature of this board is the CORK DECK. Cork is the original renewable material. It has been used as a valuable resource for thousands of years. Cork is a bark that is harvested every nine years off cork oak trees without harming the tree. Cork is an excellent natural insulator. It dampens road vibration, while providing grip for barefoot skating.
GOLIATH INDUSTRIES Ph: 03 9380 1799
STREET SUP Ph: 0466 264 232 koastal@streetsup.com.au www.streetsup.com.au Join us on Facebook
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info@goliathskate.com www.goliathskate.com www.facebook.com/ goliathskate
ARBOR SKATEBOARDS For local dealer information please contact us by email: info@futuresport.com.au, call 02 4365 1838 or visit arborcollective.com/skate
“CIRCA 70” BY OBFIVE
RRP: $129.95 Suits: Groms and cool cats Specs: 22” x 6.5” Deck: 7-Ply 100% Canadian Maple Trucks: 3.25” Aluminium Bearings: Abec-7 Wheels: 59mm 78A Super High Rebound Description: “Before there was plastic, there was timber” This stylish little classic will get you where you need to be. The perfect board for cruising the streets, checking the surf or tearing up the gutters.... Comment: Check out the full range of boards at obfiveskateboards.com.au Also, check out our stockist link online to find your local dealer.
OBFIVE SKATEBOARDS Trade enquiries: kris@obfiveskateboards.com.au
obfiveskateboards.com.au Like us on Facebook obfiveskateboards
“STINGER”
BY FiiK ELECTRIC Suits: Street speeders Dimensions: Big Deck: Classic, stylish pintail design. The longer, narrower board shape with more length in the nose offers versatile weight distribution. Wheels: Lightweight polished aluminium alloy street rims with highdensity rubber tyres. Power: Premium performance, all alloy construction LithiumPolymer LiFePo4 or sealed lead acid battery Description: Stability and ride flexibility combine for smooth and versatile styling. Propelled by a high-torque power plant, STINGER’s heritage inspired longboard profile, puts you on a master of high-paced street riding. Comment: Ride back to the future on a STINGER. There’s nothing like it. Step up onto a STINGER... the longboard lives!
FIIK SKATEBOARDS 2/3366 Pacific Highway, Springwood QLD Ph: 07 3208 3208
E: sales@fiikskateboards.com
fiikskateboards.com
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TEST G EVERKYNOTCKHITIN TILL “DON’T IT” YOU’VE TRIED
TREE TO STREET IN A WORLD WHERE EVERY PRODUCT IS LIKE EVERY PRODUCT AND IT SEEMS THAT EVERY BRAND IS PUMPED OUT OF THE SAME NAMELESS FACTORY, A BRAND WITH ECO-CRED, AND EYE FOR DETAIL AND UNBEATABLE QUALITY IS A RARITY INDEED. LET US INTRODUCE YOU TO ARBOR... ARBOR BLUNT from the Roller Collection Length: 44 Width: 9.25” Wheelbase: 23.75” Wheels: 78a durometer Street Series wheels Bearings: ABEC 5 Trucks: Gullwing Charger Arbor skateboards essentially perform the same function as a normal longboard cruiser but it’s the quality of the ride that sets them apart. Comparing an Arbor to a lesser skateboard is like comparing a Mercedes to a Ford. You can get where you’re going in either, but man, can you just feel the difference? How smoothly they handle on the road, paths, anything... The quality of the deck, trucks, bearings and risers all work together to give you absolute royal rolling.
th? Bikepa gh in u Ha! I la ce... your fa
The Blunt is one of their most versatile shapes for all round longboard cruising. It’s got a fat nose for hanging ten and a rounded kick tail for added performance. This baby flies. It handles so easily. The Blunt will take pride of place in your skateboard quiver or be the all-round longboard you use pretty much every day. And it’s eco-friendly. As with all Arbor skateboards both the maple and bamboo come from sustainable sources of supply. Deck grips use recycled, long-lasting crushed glass. All risers feature recycled plastic and finishes are water-based. Essentially, it feels as good in your soul as it does under your soles. Topping this one will take a lot. ‘Nuff said. Off to roll. Find out more at www.arborcollective.com
Above: Smooth and stable. Right: Cool black and gold artwork underneath makes a great finishing detail and complement to the beautiful wooden deck. 176
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FREE YOUR MIND PART SNOWBOARD, PART SKATEBOARD, PURE EXHILARATION. WE HAPPILY GET OUR HANDS ON THE FREEBORD AND FIND OUT ANY HYPE IS 200% JUSTIFIED. NO FAD, NO FASHION... JUST PURE FUN.
or Lego f Get ... s big kid ing. build
PART ONE: ASSEMBLY The Freebord arrives in a compact little box. One Phillips-head screwdriver and a shifting spanner later, you’re about 20 minutes away from your first ride. 1.
1. B indings first... Connect the bindings’ base to the board, but don’t tighten the bolts 2. Connect bindings to the base, but don’t fix them yet. 3. Step onto the deck, adjust the angle and height according to your liking and tighten it all up. 4. Trucks on, single wheel to the inside.
2.
3.
4.
5 & 6. All done and ready to roll!
PART TWO: THE RIDE We must confess, these picture were NOT taken on the first attempt. No, no, no... The first go was a merciless pounding. I hadn’t fallen off any board as much in years - and I fall a lot. In fact, without wrist guards, I would now be dictating, not typing. They say the learning curve on these boards is steep and this, my friends, is beyond true. Firstly, because the Freebord acts like a snowboard and you control it by flicking from edge to edge, it’s absolutely nothing like a skateboard - a fact that really messes with your head if you’re used to skating. Hence the falls, over and over again. Pain and damaged pride aside, the feeling you get when you do finally get it going, is nothing short of amazing! While it’s designed to be a snowboard simulator, it’s a hell of a lot like finless surfing too, with free movement in every direction - a plus and a minus of course. See above re: fall, pain, etc... With the six wheels, you can never have both sides of the main wide trucks on the ground at the same time. You’re always on an edge and the centre swivelling wheels. When you get comfy you can alloy yourself to roll on those centre wheels to go sideways, do 360° spins and the like - none of which I have mastered, of course, but there’s a whole lot to aspire to. Read more on page 168 or check out any of the great videos online at www.freebord.com for endless inspiration.
5.
Downside? You need a hill - there’s no pushing on the flat with this baby. Grab your longboard cruiser for that. It’s dangerous and it hurts to learn, but it’s worth it. Safety gear is an absolute must. Upside? It’s amazing, addictive and gets your adrenaline pumping like nothing else on land.
6.
ndings No soft la gh u en up, here, so to You’ll be . p buttercu id. glad you d
So, while I’m still rolling like an old lady, I’m an absolute convert and trust me, you will be too. For around $350 or so, you can get your own Freebord from www.freebordaustralia.com.au
Shown here is the Bomber Bamboo Series Core Package RRP - $325 jan/feb 2012
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PERFORMANCE
FOR SURFERS
The best you expect from a fin system!
QUALITY
FOR SHAPERS
The best for your customers, without the price tag. Enjoy the rewards of your work.
TEST
that, Take Dave!
G EVERKNYOCTKHITIN TILL “DON’T IT” YOU’VE TRIED
BITTEN BY THE PENGUIN WORDS: DAVE SWAN
Introducing the
GASfins NITRO fin plug...
THE FAT PENGUIN Shaper: Paul Cole Size: Just under 6’5” Fins: thruster Features: Wings, nine intricate flow forms
First test run
• Less flex in the base of your fin • Lightest, easiest fin system to install • Compatible with GASfins and other leading fin systems • For all shapes and deck contours • Variety of colours, from glass-filled nylon to polycarbonate hybrids • Extra long grub screws that lengthen the life of the plug
Enjoy the benefits today
0417 980 524 • gasfins@gmail.com
WWW.GASFINS.COM.AU
I’m careful what I say, considering our family audience, but the first time I took off on this board, I just went, ‘*##*#@’. I had barely ridden a wave over the last month or so, due to a complete lack of surf on the Sunshine Coast, let alone anything with some size. I was drooling at the onset of some decent swell and the chance to test a board that apparently revels in big wave conditions. The question was, had I completely forgotten what it was like to tear down the face of wave or did this board take off like a rocket? I mean it absolutely took off. Sure with some boards you can generate awesome speed, but I didn’t do anything. I pointed it, tore off down the wave and before I could think of turning, was well ahead of the crest. No pumping the board, just sheer straight-line speed. Wave after wave, I loved it. It took a little getting used to, but I got such a buzz each time it accelerated down a steep face. The super sleek, pointy ‘speed machine’ nose certainly took away some paddling power (from the waist up it is less than 16.5” wide) but that was compensated for by the wide arse and wings. And when that wide tail came into play, I found it steadied the ship enormously instead of the board getting the speed wobbles.
“Happy Feet’s cousin is one bloodthirsty bird”
2nd Test Run Boxing Day. The remnants of ex-Tropical Cyclone Fina started to hit our shores and Moffat Beach delivered big, beautiful waves. The ‘Happy Place’ was on song. Never a nasty wave, the size of the swell just meant it packed some punch. Only five others way out the back meant it is was going to be special.
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The toothless smile. Caloundra all the way, baby.
nom, “Hello! om ...” nom n
s on the GAS HPM Rainbow... te ra pi m Va the bag in ’s Summer
FLight of the bumblebee VAMPIRATE RAINBOW 5’8” x 20” x 2 3/8” with GAS HPM fins
THE BOARD
This is, hands down, the most enjoyable board I have ever ridden! I picked it up after riding my fish and have not touched the fish since, in fact I am getting rid of my fish and replacing it with this godly piece of work shaped by Mark Gnech.
Unable to stand or even belly-board it in because of the way the waves were pitching, I had to paddle out into the deep water of the bay. A slow 15 - 20 minute paddle in with a nice slick of blood trailing behind had me feeling somewhat like a Meals on Wheels delivery... Off to emergency. The ladies at Caloundra Hospital were absolutely fantastic and saw to me promptly. Laying spread eagle on the bed, the highly experienced nurse Jane quipped, ‘she had seen bigger’ and with a laugh promptly got on with fixing me up - a few internal and external stitches. Apparently the Penguin had a penchant for snags. The angry bird had eaten through my skin into the fascia, which is a sausage-like casing of the muscle. At the conclusion of my ordeal I considered myself lucky the nibble was not further up my leg or I would be now singing Soprano. As for my verdict on the Fat Penguin, my last words were the same as the first. The board is a good one, the rider however is not.
This board is a loose cannon on small waves. It’s slightly nuggety shape and fatter tail made racing along the face of waves effortless, not to mention the incredible amount of drive and control I got through turns with its thinner rails and thruster setup. Sticking top turns became too easy on this board, and it certainly wasn’t shy when you wanted to jam the tail out. Not only will you tear the wave a new sphincter with this board, you will look good doing it with its killer paint job!
WORDS: DYLAN REID
THE FINS
What’s not to like about Gas fins? They’re everything you need in a fin and at a good price too. I rode the medium fins in 3ft surf and they were awesome. They had so much control and predictability when pumping along the face of the wave and not to mention a solid amount of drive when digging into that bottom turn. They come in a few different designs and sizes, so you can mix and match until you hit that sweet spot. Since riding these fins, I see no point in riding anything else.
www.vampiratesurfboards.com www.gasfins.com.au
CRAZY COOL
WORDS: DAVE SWAN (PRE-PENGUIN ATTACK)
SURF 1770 TWIN FIN
Size: About 6ft and unique Features: Erle Pedersen Kewarra Flame Jet bottom, teaspoon concave, whale tail tail
This was another board I was really looking forward to riding. GlenCat is such a character I hoped like hell the board would be fun to ride... And it was. She was a dream to paddle. It’s only 6ft put paddles like a longboard. Plenty of volume to get you about and once on the wave she was nice and loose. It surfed super smooth. It is almost hard to describe the feeling. The jet bottom and teaspoon concave worked together to bust water tension and provide the
right amount of looseness, hold and control. When combined with the specially designed hand foiled fins, you had a great deal of drive with the same level of maneuverability many are accustomed to with a twin fin. The fins are same thickness from base to tip. They are solid foils with flex built into them so they stay as a permanent flex without need for the fin to bend. The end result overall is a twin fin that you could ride in a variety of conditions including overhead surf that didn’t skip out. www.surf1770noosa.com
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Dylan + Rainbow + Crescent Head. PHOTO: Mark Chapman
Three waves in and I was starting to settle in with my new found friend once more. Then came a good set. Drilled into me by my dad since I was a kid was, ‘don’t pike on the big ones’ so I turned and went. Down the face, turn, back up towards the lip, turn and then the mother pitched me off the top. Now a normal board would often follow you through the air but the Penguin had other ideas. It is unlike other boards. It sucks onto a wave and decided to keep track and meet me at the bottom. And when I reentered the water, she bit me! The minute she chomped into my skin I knew it wouldn’t be good. I reached down and my fingers entered what was now a mouth on my leg. I whipped up my boardshorts to confirm the attack. Bugger, bugger, bugger.
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MOVIES CAUGHT INSIDE UMBRELLA ENTERTAINMENT
The super-scary Aussie thriller we featured in the last edition is available on DVD! The tale of a surf trip gone bad is a must for your movie collection. There’s the usual extra material you expect of a DVD, but the main feature is the reason to own this. www.caughtinside.com.au
MUSIC
Signed copies u p fo grabs! S r ee Page 26
Hightime party on
SOUL SURFER
HIGHTIME ISHI PRENDE
DVD: AUGUST 2011 (It may not be the latest, but if you haven’t seen it, make sure you do)
PEE RECORDS
There’s a party on the go. A Cossack polka band is having a few beers and jumping around to Propaghandi doing a set of Mr Bungle covers with a jazz band on backing, who are all listening to Sublime on their iPods at the same time. Missy Higgins and Lilly Allen arrive to join in the festivities with their daughter who was adopted and raised by Gwen Stefani on a steady diet of Jello Biafra and social justice. A giant stubbie of beery fun drops from the sky and explodes, melting all the party goers into a weird mish-mash of musical genius. Adelaide punks Hightime push just about every boundary that can be pushed in a raw, rough and ready, yet incredibly diverse and inspiring 13-track release that could easily be a standalone soundtrack to the best skate video ever. Pure energy and brilliant musicianship flows through style after style seamlessly, all bound tightly together by unexpected singing talents of Nina, a feisty young lady with no fear of busting a few vocal chords. If you like your tunes safe and predictable, this is definitely not for you. Get into these guys (and girl) before they get all punky and disenchanted and do something idiotic and selfdestructive like split up. $20 disc, or $11 download from www.peerecords.com
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ERNEST ELLIS & THE PANAMAS KINGS CANYON
ANTELOPE RECORDINGS/INERTIA
Epic, atmospheric and ethereal... This ten-song release is ripe for adjectives - uplifting, melancholy and relaxing all at once. Packed with modern ballad soundscapes, it’s one of those albums that seems to grow a little on you ever time you have it on the player. While not the same sound, fans of Andrew Kidman’s work with the Windy Hills will enjoy this very comfortable recording. Nothing sounds forced. Every sound and instrument just seems to flow together and even the more upbeat songs - such as Save Me - sound relaxed. Ernest Ellis’ understated vocals and moody, reverb-tinged arrangements come together perfectly in this beautiful piece of art. Well worth grabbing. Perfect music to just plain chill out to. For show info and more, see www.ernestellis.com
DRIVEN FEAR CONTENDER PEE RECORDS
“All rivers lead back to the ocean. Helps me realise where I’m going...” South Brisbane boys Driven Fear have put together one powerful release on their latest offering, Contender. With its tough title, and the fact the Scotty Mac of Sydney legends Toe-to-Toe does a guest appearance, it’s as you would expect it to be - tough as nails. Heartfelt, honest hardcore. A cool digipack with 12-page booklet makes the physical product well worth the buy, but you can also get some instant gratification with a digital download and save a few dollars. $20 disc, or $11 download from peerecords.com www.peerecords.com.
What a sensational movie! A truly remarkable story about an amazing young lady and the importance of never giving up. Pardon the cliché, but I kind of knew the story, had read the odd clipping or two about what happened to Bethany Hamilton but the movie brought it all together beautifully. I loved it. I watched it with my wife and her parents and immediately vowed my kids must watch this movie. It is inspirational. If you love surfing, have kids that surf, particularly daughters, this movie will have you bawling like a baby. If it doesn’t move you, you better get your heart checked... to see if you have one. www.soulsurferthemovie.com And if you enjoyed that, check out...
HEART OF A SOUL SURFER - DVD To find out more about this amazing lady, you may also like to consider viewing the behind the scenes account of what happened and the story behind her faith. After watching this DVD you truly start to understand how Bethany Hamilton overcame this adversity. Her happiness and zest for life is incredible. There’s a beautiful quote from the movie where Bethany says, “I do sometimes get self conscious. You see all these beautiful girls with perfect bodies, perfect everything. The way I deal with it is to recognise beauty is not everything and in your heart you can be beautiful and to just do your best to ignore the fact you are not perfect.”
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CLOSEOUT: FASHION
OLD GUYS, HOT GIRLS Don’t be dirty... We mean the clothing. Here’s some cool gear for guys and girls this summer.
HIVE SWIMWEAR
After seeing this photo we couldn’t help but run a sneak peak of the upcoming Hive 2012/2013 collection. For more: www.hiveswimwear.com
OLD GUYS RULE
If getting around in a cool retro t-shirt is more your thing than skirts and bikinis, then these are for you. T- shirts RRP $39.95 www.oldguysrule.com.au
ZAND WRAP SKIRTS WIN a ZAND sk irt! See Page 26
Fresh from Amsterdam, these wraparound skirts are hand crafted from beautiful fabrics, finished with sequins, lace and other trimmings such as a mobile phone pocket. Available in a range of different lengths and fabrics. Each skirt is unique and prices start from $65. www.zand.com.au jan/feb 2012
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HEART
WORK After twenty years of earning his bread and butter spraying surfboards, NZ-born artist and Gold Coast local, Christian Chapman has taken a big step out of the spray booth to find himself hanging his art on the walls of galleries. WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN
"WHEN YOU GO TO CANVAS, THERE ARE NO RESTRICTIONS “Painting is something I’ve always done, but over the last five years, it’s really taken off.” says Christian, as he shows us his workspace in a backstreet of Mermaid Beach on the Gold Coast. “As you can see in this room, there’s hardly any surfboards around. It’s just the direction its taken.” Despite being a keen surfer, shaper and one so long involved in the surf scene – even shaping surfboards he’s not too unhappy about the change of focus. “Surfboard spraying is the epitome when you’re 16, but as you get older the ‘froth’ sort of wears off. “ 182
But he’s quick to point out how grateful he is for the experience, which he refers to as his ‘University degree.’ “I learned so much of my art spraying surfboards. You have to be so diverse and be able to cover the full spectrum - from Posca work, airbrush work, pinlines… You’re catering to different breeds of surfers, so it really develops your art.” With an artist mother and designer father, Christian seemed destined for a creative career. In the art world, he saw a niche for himself, creating something a little different to the standard oil-on-canvas.
“This is art. You can do whatever you want to do - hand paint and airbrush,” he explains. “I love the hand paintbrush for the lineal stuff and then the airbrush is just awesome for the tonal stuff and I think that’s a really good marriage.” His current work is mostly portraits of tattooed women – a juxtaposition of soft beauty and the harsher image of tattoos. While this theme is somewhat of a continuation of some of the surfboard spray art, taking it out of the surf has given him greater artistic freedom.
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CLOSEOUT: ART Portrait photos: Mark Chapman. Artwork and surf photo: supplied
AND IT’S NOT GOING TO GET WAXED OVER, OR SNAPPED" “Scale-wise, when you go to canvas, there are no restrictions and it’s not going to get waxed over, or snapped,“ he laughs. While he’s taken his spraying down a notch or two, Christian has made sure his art is available to surfers through SurfDecals.com, who license a number of his works as prints that get laminated to the surfboard as part of the production process. “He’s pumping it man, and what a product! A shaper near here was using another product and it was plastic and not staying down that well. Ian (Wallis – Surf
Decals) printed some up and it just worked. It’s porous and light, so it just laminated straight onto the board. It’s already cut out to your file… And it’s just great quality printing.” Squeezed in between painting and the business side of being an artist, surfing still makes up a big part of Christian’s life. Using his personally shaped boards, he makes a habit of getting out in the water as often as possible, with South Stradbroke his pick of the spots. “It’s just so easy to get barreled! You go to make a turn and you’re already in the barrel. It has so much power!
It’s pretty inundated with all the crowds these days, but where isn’t? The beachies out here have their day too…”
For more on Christian’s artwork check out his website at www.christianchapmanart.com.au. If you like what you see and would like to find out more about getting one of his images on your surfboard, visit www.surfdecals.com. jan/feb 2012
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“ WE’RE FOCUSED ON THE RETRO MOVEMENT – VINTAGE SURFBOARDS, MODERN RETRO SHAPES, RETRO GEAR AND A GOOD RANGE OF SECONDHAND BOARDS.” ANDRE ‘ONDI’ MARSAUS, UNDERGROUND SURF
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COUNTER CULTURE
UNDERGROUND CURRENTS WORDS: DAVE SWAN, PHOTOS: MARK CHAPMAN
There is an underground movement afoot in Noosa. Indeed the owners of the store of the same name in Coolangatta, Andre ‘Ondi’ Marsaus and Maree O’Connor, have just opened their second Underground store on Noosa Drive, just up from Noosa Junction opposite the Koala Bar - a local bar and backpackers. In fact it was beside the Koala Bar where Ondi first worked when he arrived in Noosa in the late 70s. “I love Noosa. I formerly spent 25 years here. I used to repair surfboards in an old house beside where the Koala Bar is today. At night time I would scrub pots and pans for extra cash and somehow ended up a chef.” Not any old chef we might just add. For those who may recall a previous article written about Ondi’s amazing vintage surfboard collection, his culinary skills saw him travel the country cooking for Prime Ministers, dignitries, celebrities and even Queen Elizabeth. We asked Ondi about the reason for his return and why he and Maree sought to open an Underground in Noosa. “We’re about doing something different. We’re focused on the retro movement – vintage surfboards, modern retro shapes, retro gear and a good range of secondhand boards. Our own Underground boards are all Australian made, right on the coast, by experienced shapers including master craftsmen Tony Dempsey and Terry Glass. We also have a few select Gordon & Smith shapes.”
Surfboards new and secondhand, memorabilia, books, DVDs, CDs, clothing... Both UNDERGOURND SURF stores are treasure troves of all sorts of great surf gear
‘Select’ being a key word. Indeed everything in Underground is hand picked by Ondi to suit the shop. His philosophy is to give surfers a break from the big commercial surf brands and offer something different. As such, on the clothing side of things Underground carries a number of independent brands such as Art Park, Hinano Tahiti and Rhythm along with old shapers t-shirts from the likes of Michael Peterson, Bobby Brown and Gordon & Smith. “We don’t just flood the shop with one or two brands and in terms of surf hardware, we stock brands that we know work and last because they are quality. Gear that my friends and I use on a regular basis. That is why we carry Ocean & Earth and Balin.” Ondi continually looks to inject a bit of himself into everything associated with the store. Many of the memorabilia pieces have not only been bought specifically for Underground but are from his very own personal collection. When it comes to artworks from the likes of Von Weirdo or other local artists, or original Storm Riders posters or even the range of rereleased DVDs and CDs from the 60s and 70s, Ondi looks to add that personal touch. He gets them signed to add value to the piece for the customer. And the same applies to his skateboard collection. Aside from the likes of boards from Z-Flex, Penny, Early and Adjust there are some truly unique skateboard decks signed Tony Alva and Christian Hosoi. The two in store are some of only 200-odd worldwide. Underground is a time warp for surfers and a true collectors haven. But just wait until one of their famous swap meets rolls around. UNDERGROUND SURF 3/77 Noosa Drive, Noosa Heads, Sunshine Coast 3/31 McLean Street, Coolangatta, Gold Coast - 07 5599 1040 www.undergroundsurf.com.au jan/feb 2012
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NAIL THOSE RE-ENTRIES
WORDS: ALISTAIR LAWSON, NEXT LEVEL SURF COACHING & GREAT OCEAN ROAD SURF TOURS
Guardsg,s le d d a P Nose &pe & Leash Plu Rail Ta
In the November - December issue we looked at the importance of the bottom turn in surfing. Establishing it’s role in creating drive and speed to be able to ride up to the top of the wave. We are now going to look at what we do when we get there.
k Fins
Pro Tec
What you do at the top of the wave will be determined by what the wave and lip are doing at the time. If the lip is feathering and looking like it is on its way to breaking, we know that the wave is steep enough for a more vertical manoeuvre as the lip and wave will add some ‘push’ for us to turn sharply and come back down the wave’s face. If the wave is slightly fatter and more open, a manoeuvre such as a snap or cutback will be a better option as they will then take us back to the breaking part of the wave and in turn the most powerful part of the wave. This will then help us keep our speed and flow throughout the waves’ duration.
s
epair Kt
afe R Travel S
Studying the conditions before you paddle out can help you as you ‘mind surf’ the possibilities of the waves on offer. This will help you make educated decisions about what to do for each section you face and create a faster reaction time when surfing.
RE- ENTRY TRAINING Let’s break down the manoeuvre into sections and cue words to make it easy to remember. 1.
TARGET. When coming out of the bottom turn you need to be eyeing up the section you are looking to do the turn in. Preferably for this turn you are looking at a steep section.
2.
ROTATE. When you are heading up the waves face you need to start shifting your weight onto your back foot at the same time you start to rotate by turning your head and upper body to open the chest. This will help you turn the board and not get stuck in the lip.
3.
BOARD TO BEACH. As your board hits the lip your rotation should have you turning your head and chest to a position where your board is facing the beach.
4.
CHEST OVER FRONT FOOT. You need to re-centre over your board by putting the weight onto your front foot and stay in a compressed position so you can come out of the turn with speed and set yourself up for the next turn.
COMMON ERRORS • • •
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Keeping the body too straight as you approach the lip. This then makes it harder to get a good rotation and can put you off balance. Not rotating enough or early enough which will either have you catching a rail or getting stuck in the lip Not looking for the landing – back towards the beach. This is important to complete the turn and help you ride out.
Alistair Lawson is a qualified Level 2 Surf Coach and he’s been surfing for nearly 20 years himself. Having studied Sports Science and Sports Coaching, Alistair worked as a qualified personal trainer for 16 years. He now owns Great Ocean Road Surf Tours, which has been running for 6 years, providing ‘the simplest, most enjoyable way to experience surfing.
For information on surf coaching, visit: www.gorsurftours.com.au
jan/feb 2012
02 4226 1322
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GRAB AN EXERCISE BAND AND TAKE YOUR WORKOUT WITH YOU WORDS: CLAYTON BEATTY
CLOSEOUT: COLUMNS
EXERCISES FOR THE TRAVELLING SURFER
If you have to be away from home for work, holidays or even a surf trip (aren’t you lucky), there is no excuse not to keep up your fitness routine. These days there are a variety of different types of portable fitness equipment, and one that makes a great travelling companion for any surfer is an exercise band. Exercise bands are light and won’t take up much luggage space, and they allow you to do a full body workout with lots of different exercises to keep you entertained. You can even combine band exercises with bodyweight exercises (like push-ups and squat jumps) for an even better workout. When travelling you can often be pressed for time, so I recommend going for a fast paced circuit workout lasting 20-30 minutes. Pick 5-8 exercises and do them back to back with minimal rest, then repeat the circuit 2-3 times for a great total body workout. Next time you’re travelling, take an exercise band and have a go at incorporating the following exercises into your fitness routine so you can keep in shape and be physically prepared to hit the surf.
BAND CORE ROTATIONS
LUNGING CHEST PRESS
• • •
Use this exercise to develop rotational core strength for more powerful turns. Start holding the band in both hands out to the side of your body. Keeping your core braced to protect your lower back, rotate the band across your body, making sure you move from your hips and pivot on the balls of your feet.
• •
•
Perform 8-10 reps on each side of your body.
• •
This exercise will build chest, arm and leg strength. Start in a standing position holding an end of the band in each hand at chest level. Lunge forward and simultaneously press the band out in front of your chest. Step back up to the start position, then alternate lunging on the other leg.
•
Perform 5-8 repetitions on each leg.
STRAIGHT ARM PULL-DOWNS
SINGLE LEG SINGLE ARM ROW
• •
•
• •
This exercise will help strengthen your paddling muscles. Bend forward at your hips whilst keeping your back straight and hold onto the band with straight arms. Keeping your arms straight pull the band down to the side of your hips, then slowly return to the start position Perform 10-15 repetitions.
• • • •
This exercise will help develop a strong back and arms as well as single leg balance and trunk stability. Stand on one leg with your knee slightly bent, core braced, chest up and shoulders back. Hold onto the exercise band in the opposite hand to your stance leg. Pull the band into the side of your torso whilst trying to maintain stability through the rest of your body, then slowly extend your arm back to the start position. Perform 8-12 repetitions on each side of your body.
Clayton Beatty is a qualified Exercise Scientist with a BSc Human Movement Degree from the University of WA and is a member of Exercise and Sports Science Australia (ESSA). He runs Total Surfing Fitness, created to help surfers improve their skills and reduce the risk of injury.
We’re all keen to improve our surfing, so check out his website for surf-specific functional training exercises. Go to TotalSurfingFitness.com, and there’s even a free sample workout to get you started. jan/feb 2012
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CLOSEOUT: COLUMNS
INSIDE THE GREEN ROOM SERMON, PERSPECTIVE AND A LITTLE ALANIS MORRISETTE…
Snowy McAllister at Manly. PHOTO: C.J.McAllister SurfWorld Museum collection
AUSTRALIA’S SILENT SURFING CENTENARY A strange thing has happened in Australian surfing, something that has gone almost completely unnoticed. Australian’s have been surfing for over one hundred years but due to a lack of documentation and recognition of our earliest surfing pioneers, Australia’s surfing centenary has slid by without so much as a whimper. Information is the culprit, or rather, a lack of it. There are a number of vague and sketchy reports about who may have been surfing, when, where and what was being ridden in those early days. Undoubtedly a few of the early surf craft ridden in Australia may have been crudely wrought, and some of the early surfers may have struggled to ride these beasts with any style. The point is several early Aussie surfers were taking on the challenge of riding ocean waves and having a go over one hundred years ago. There was a relatively small group surfing in those early years, at Manly and other Sydney surf breaks. Surfing was a bit of a curiosity. It was just another way for people to have fun in the surf once the beach bathing bans had been lifted. Tommy Walker and his brother Russell, nicknamed “Bustie” Walker, Fred Notting, Geoff Wyld, Claude West, Norman Roberts, Steve McKelvey, Basil Kirke. Dorothy “Doll” Reynolds who rode a board with her husband Jack, Australia’s first professional lifeguard and noted water enthusiast, and Esma Amor are some of the locals reported to have ridden surfboards in those early years. There is little recorded of these surfer’s early efforts, a problem compounded by the loss of much of the public records of activities along Sydney’s northern beaches. There are very few copies of the local media, such as the Manly Daily, Manly Argus and the Manly and North Sydney News, that have survived from that period. What is clear, however, is that there was a small group of dedicated beach goers that had given surfing a serious try with Tommy Walker being the only
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one from that group that has surviving documentary evidence of his early surfing efforts. Imagine being Australia’s first surfer. Sand under your feet, sun on your shoulders and the broad blue Pacific spread out before you with waves unfolding along a pristine coastline. What an evocative thought. People love absolutes, but the origins of Australian surfing like the genesis of surfing in the Pacific fade back into the mists of time. Osric Notley’s photographs of Tommy Walker surfing at Yamba in the summer of 1911 - 1912 provides us with a definitive moment in Australian surfing history, the earliest recorded images of an Australian surfing. But Aussies had been surfing for some time before that photo was taken. Apart from taking those now iconic images, a letter from Notley also describes the board being delivered by the SS Kyogle to the Sydney docks and the subsequent arrangements for the transport of Walker’s board to Yamba. Notley also recorded some hints about the board’s origins. Some people seem keen to de-emphasise Duke Kahanamoku’s impact on Australian surfing, by pointing out Aussies had taken up the sport before Duke even arrived in the country. However, Duke’s name is linked with Walker’s surfboard as well as the board imported by C.D. Patterson with various reports citing the boards as having been sourced from Duke Kahanamoku in Hawaii. There is undoubtedly a degree of rose coloured rear vision mirrors being employed here but it often seems that all roads lead back to Waikiki, and to one man in particular. Regardless of times, dates, places and names, it is clear that Australia’s surfing heritage extends back further than the summer of 1911/12. The upcoming celebrations at Yamba of Osric Notley’s images of Tommy Walker surfing are a great milestone and something to commemorate, but there were other Australian surfers whose stories remain untold and an almost secret surfing history that has so far eluded popular perceptions.
A ‘green’ column. I can hear the collective groan. Not another greenie trying to preach to us and add surfing to the long list of life’s guilty pleasures I hear you say. However, I can hand-on-my-heart promise you that despite all the best intentions, I am no bona fide greenie. I’d like to be, and maybe one day I will be, but right now I’m still learning. I do however love the ocean and am eternally grateful for the pleasures it brings us as a surfing community. And without sounding too Alanis Morissette here, the irony within the surfing industry is not lost on me. Which irony you say? Well let me explain... As surfers we are assumed to be connected with the ocean and to some extent we are – we know the tides, the swell direction, can recognise surf breaks from all over the world at first glance, we understand the seasons and wind direction - but does this really equate to a true connection with the ocean? Many of the elements of surfing as a recreation are contributors to environmental problems. The industry relies heavily on petrochemical by-products to produce not only surfboards but also wetsuits, clothing and accessories. How many surfers are aware that the majority of what they ride, wear and do in the interest of surfing is supported by the petroleum industry? That said, I can understand the general reluctance to learn about the meanings and ramifications of big topic issues like ocean acidification, global warming and climate change. It can be tedious, somewhat contentious, and after all, the average surfboard as an object is not the largest contributor to a typical surfer’s negative environmental impact (energy use from driving, flying and heating/cooling the home are much bigger). But the dangers to the waves that we ride are real. For example, there is credible evidence that suggests that surf breaks on coral reef passes (think Teahupo’o and Ulawatu) are anticipated to degrade drastically, to the point of being unrideable, in as little as 20-40 years’ time. What can we as individuals do to reduce these risks? Take notice. Listen to those diehard greenies sometimes, especially those in surfing circles, as without them the awesome waves Mother Nature dishes up for us would be even more threatened. We can’t change the world, but we can educate ourselves and take small steps such as buying locally made boards and products where possible, recycling or reusing instead of discarding and stopping and thinking before we buy. Embrace consumer power. Choose a local shaper who has a good clean production process. Spend a few extra bucks to get that organic cotton tee. Check out sustainable alternatives to traditional surf products. It won’t kill you to think about it. But don’t get too hung up on it. Live life and enjoy those waves. After all, we don’t know just how much longer we’ll be able to enjoy them for.
Craig Baird, Curator of SurfWorld Museum Torquay is the surf history buff you want on your trivia night team. With a passion for all things that make up the ragtag history and culture of hitting the waves, he’s always happy to chew the fat over the counter at the museum and we’re lucky enough to have him commit some thought to paper here.
Nicola O’Reilly is the better half of the nice folks from Surfing Green, a couple passionate about providing sustainable surfing products.
For information on the museum, visit: www.surfworld.com.au
www.surfinggreen.com.au
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Planning a surfing holiday or weekend away? These fine accommodation options offer great proximity to surf beaches in some of the country’s best surf spots. Get out there.
SURF TRIP ACCOMMODATION
QUEENSLAND
NEW SOUTH WALES
PORTOBELLO BY THE SEA 6 Beerburrum St, Dicky Beach Caloundra Fantastic surf spots right on your doorstep. Moffat, Neill Street, Dicky Beach all within a 5 minute walk. Luxury accommodation within 50 m of some of the best restaurants Caloundra has to offer. Proximity: Across from patrolled Dicky Beach, on-site dining and shopping. Phone: 07 5491 9038
E: info@portobellobythesea.com.au
www.portobellobythesea.com.au From $325 for two nights.
PANDANUS PALMS HOLIDAY RESORT 21 Cumming Pde, Point Lookout, North Stradbroke Island
THE ISLANDER HOLIDAY RESORT
High on a hill overlooking Home Beach, looking north towards Moreton Island, offering plenty of open space for children to play, full size tennis court and swimming pool.
Ideally located, whether it’s adventure or relaxation you’re after, there’s something for everyone - pool, tennis court, bbq area, kids playground, scooter & car hire. Studio, 1 & 2 bedroom apartments available, all fully self-contained with foxtel, dvd player, wireless internet access, balconies and parking.
IBIS WOLLONGONG Cnr Church and Market Street Wollongong
PHILLIP ISLAND VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE 895 Phillip Island Road, Newhaven, Phillip Island
3.5 star hotel in the heart of Wollongong restaurant and business district, minutes from beautiful beaches. Winner Best Standard Accommodation on the South Coast 2008, 2009 & 2010. Air conditioned rooms include tea and coffee facilities, mini bar fridges, flatscreen TV and internet connectivity. Special Access rooms and facilities are also available.
Planning a surf trip to Phillip Island? The island offers over 2000 beds and over 100 accommodation businesses to choose from. Contact Phillip Island Visitor Information Centre’s accommodation specialists for all your accommodation needs. Let our friendly staff assist you in finding the perfect place for you to stay.
www.pandanuspalmsresort.com
Proximity: 10 minute walk to the beach and WIN Entertainment Centre. On the doorstep of Crown St Mall Phone: 02 4223 6000 E: H6377@accor.com www.accorhotels.com/6377
P: 1300 366 422 E: piinfo@basscoast.vic.gov.au www.visitbasscoast.com
From $330.00 for two nights
From $119 per room per night
The two or three bedroom villas are fully self-contained with large living area and private balcony, own BBQ and linen is supplied. We can arrange return vehicle ferry crossings at a discounted rate. Proximity: 500m walk to Home Beach and Stradbroke Island Beach Hotel. 2km to cafes, shops and Gorge Walk. P: 07 3409 8106 E: bookings@pandanuspalmsresort.com
CALOUNDRA HOLIDAY CENTRE 1/78 Bulcock St, Caloundra Caloundra Holiday Centre has been assisting holidaymakers find their perfect Sunshine Coast getaway for over 25 years. We offer one of the largest portfolios of holiday accommodation in Caloundra, consisting of a great choice of budget to luxury self contained units and houses at all beaches. With family friendly prices and seniors’ discounts available, we’re sure to have a property to suit your needs at a competitive price. Our friendly and experienced staff can assist you with finding your perfect beach break! Request our free colour brochure and price list today! P: 07 5491 5444 E: info@caloundraholidaycentre.com.au
caloundraholidaycentre.com.au From $340 p/w, low season TV
gym
laundry
41 East Coast Rd, Point Lookout North Stradbroke Island
VICTORIA
WHALE WATCH OCEAN BEACH RESORT Samarinda Dve, Point Lookout, North Stradbroke Island Located at North Stradbroke Island’s Point Lookout, Whale Watch Ocean Beach Resort provides endless views along the main surfing beach (which is one of the east’s coasts renowned surf spots) and over the Pacific Ocean, to the Gold Coast and beyond. Proximity: Short walk to Point Lookout Surf Club and all the major Point Lookout attractions. P: 07 3409 8555 E: reservations@ whalewatchresort.com.au www.whalewatchresort.com.au kitchen
parking
wi-fi
Proximity: 2 min walk to hotel, pub, bowls club, shops & restaurants. Opposite Home/ Cylinder beaches. P: 07 3409 8388 E: islander@stradbrokeresorts.com.au
islander.stradbrokeresorts.com.au From $225 for 2 nights
STRADBROKE ISLAND HOLIDAYS Shop 2 Raby Bay Harbour 152 Shore Street West Cleveland North Stradbroke Island is the ideal holiday destination for families, couples or maybe just a day trip. Located one hour from Brisbane, Straddie is easily accessible by Stradbroke Ferries’ fast reliable vehicle ferries or water taxi which depart from Cleveland. Stradbroke Island Holidays offer an efficient booking service to arrange all of your accommodation and luxury Stradbroke Ferry transfers to and from North Stradbroke Island. P: 07 3821 0266 www.stradbrokeholidays.com.au pool
airconditioning
SILVERWATER RESORT 17 Potters Hill Rd, San Remo
KIAMA COVE MOTEL 10 Bong Bong St, Kiama Kiama Cove Motel is located in the heart of Kiama, overlooking Surf Beach with most rooms having ocean views, airconditioning and king sized beds. All with complimentary continental breakfasts. Proximity: Right on Kiama Beach. Short walk to the main street of Kiama. Phone: 02 4232 3000 E: kiamacove@bigpond.com www.kiamacove.com.au From $99-$169 per room per night family-friendly
pet-friendly
Spacious one, two and three-bedroom self-contained apartments all with spectacular bay views and modern conveniences. Complementing the 4.5 star accommodation is an excellent range of resort facilities including indoor and outdoor pool, billiards and games room, tennis and basketball courts, restaurant and bar. Proximity: Five mins to surf beach, two mins to town Phone: 1800 033 403 res@silverwaterresort.com.au www.silverwaterresort.com.au From $175 per night spa
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SURF DIRECTORY QLD CENTRAL COAST REEF 2 BEACH SURF SHOP 07 4974 9072
Shop 1, 10 Round Hill Road Agnes Water/1770 www.reef2beachsurf.com
SUNSHINE COAST NOOSA SURF WORKS 07 5474 4567
1/11 Bartlett St, Noosaville www. shotgunsurf.com www.lagunabaysurf.com WATERLINE 07 5474 1010 - 2/15 Venture Dr, Noosaville, www.zeewetsuits.com ILLUSIONS NOOSA 0488 686 206 2/2 Venture Dve, Noosaville & Shop 28 Sunshine Beach Rd, Noosa Junction www.illusionsnoosa.com.au CLASSIC MALIBU AUSTRALIA 07 5474 3122 Cnr Gibson and Eumundi Rds, Noosaville, www.classicmalibu.com ADVENTURE SPORTS NOOSA 07 5455 6677 Shop 6A, 203 Gympie Terrace, Noosaville www.kitesurfaustralia.com.au LOCAL KNOWLEDGE 07 5474 1222 3 Gibson Rd, Noosaville GOLDEN BREED 07 5455 3722 - 15 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads, www.goldenbreed.com.au NOOSA LONGBOARDS 07 5447 2828 2/55 Hastings St, Noosa Heads www.noosalongboards.com
UNDERGROUND NOOSA
3/77 Noosa Drive, Noosa Heads www.undergroundsurf.com.au SURF SHOP 07 5471 3489 - 224 David Low Way, Peregian Beach, www.surf-shop.org COOLUM SURF 07 5351 1742 - Birtwill St Coolum Beach www.alexsurfshop.com.au BLUE LINES 07 5351 1986 - 1776 The Esplanade, Coolum Beach WALLY’S WATER GALLERY 07 5448 8560 6 Lorraine Beach, Marcoola Beach BOARDSTORE SURF 07 5448 7025 15 Mudjimba Esp, Mudjimba WEIR’S INSIDE EDGE 07 5443 4143 14 Memorial Ave, Maroochydore DA BOMB 07 5451 0620 - 3/25 Plaza Pde, Maroochydore & 07 5437 9201 - 7/12 Thunderbird Dr, Bokarina www.dabombsurf.com.au OCEAN ADDICTS 07 5309 6624 103-105 Aerodrome Rd, Maroochydore www.oceanaddicts.com.au ALTERNATIVE SURF 07 5475 4811 11/140 Alexandra Pde, Alexandra Headland BEACH BEAT 07 5443 2777 - 164 Alexandra Pde, Alexandra Headlands; 07 5491 4711 119 Bulcock St, Caloundra www.beachbeat.com.au ALEX SURF 07 5452 6276 188 Alexandra Pde, Alexandra Headland www.alexsurf.com.au WORLD SURFARIS 1800 611 163 2/174 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba www.worldsurfaris.com THE FACTORY 07 5492 5838 - 15 Allen St, Caloundra thefactorysurf.com.au SLS SURFBOARDS 0424 314 183 2/57 George St, Moffat Beach www.slssurfboards.com.au SURFWARE AUSTRALIA 07 5491 3620 2 Bulcock St, Caloundra
BRISBANE PRIMITIVE SURF 07 3266 1001 - 601
Nudgee Rd, Nundah primitivesurf.com GOODTIME SURF & SAIL 07 3391 8588 29 Ipswich Rd, Wooloongabba www.goodtime.com.au FIIK Unit 2/3366 Pacific Hwy, Springwood www.fiikskateboards.com COD 07 3207 0116 - 51 Ziegenfusz Rd, Thornlands www.codsurfing.com.au
NTH STRADBROKE ISLAND MINTY SURFBOARDS 07 3409 8334 - Point Lookout www.bobmintysurfboards.com
GOLD COAST KOMA SURFBOARDS 0402 863 763
4/39 Bailey Crs, Southport komasurf.com SURF FX 07 5531 3199 - 127 Ferry Road, Southport www.surf-fx.com SIDEWAYS 07 5592 3849 - 3012 Surfers Blvd, Surfers Paradise sidewaysboardsports.com.au
190
STUART SURF DESIGN 07 5572 0098
2576 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach www.stuartsurf.com.au GANGSTA SURF 07 5526 6969 - Shop 1/ 2558 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach www.gangstasurf.com BOARD CULTURE 07 5572 9866 2442 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach www.boardculture.com.au LOCAL KNOWLEDGE 07 5526 6377 2251 Gold Coast Hwy, Nobby Beach THE BOARDROOM 07 5527 7877 2084 Gold Coast Hwy, Miami HARVEY SURF GALLERY 0414 557 624 3/10 Pacific Ave, Miami www.harveysurf.com MT WOODGEE 07 5535 0288 1730 Gold Coast Hwy, Burleigh Heads 07 5598 2188 - 2 Stewart Rd, Currumbin 07 5536 5937 - 122 Griffith St, Coolangatta www.mtwoodgee.com.au PATAGONIA BURLEIGH James Street, Burleigh Heads www.patagonia.com.au SEAN SCOTT PHOTOGRAPHY 07 5520 2774 Old Burleigh Theatre Arcade, Shop 10, Goodwin Tce, Burleigh Heads 07 5599 1150 - Shop 3, 120 Marine Pde, Coolangatta seanscottphotography.com.au
DICK VAN STRAALEN/ CLASSIC WATERMAN
0409 262 729, 7/3 Ramly Dr, Burleigh Hds dickvanstraalen.com, classicwaterman.com DALE CHAPMAN SURF DESIGNS 07 5593 8411 Unit 3/48 Junction Road, Burleigh Heads www.chapmansurfboards.com SOUTHCOAST FOAM 07 5522 1600 - 15 Greg Chappell Dr, Burleigh Gdns Estate, Andrews www.southcoastfoam.com.au GOLD COAST SURF WORLD 07 5525 6380 Tomewin Street, Currumbin www.surfworldgoldcoast.com FIREWIRE SURFBOARDS 07 5587 7700 1/49 Currumbin Creek Rd Currumbin www.firewiresurfboards.com DMS 07 5559 5949 3/56 Currumbin Creek Rd Currumbin www.dmshapes.com D’ARCY HANDSHAPES 07 5559 5866 1/8 Hawker St, Currumbin www.darcysurfboards.com SHAPERS 07 5534 4228 - 9/7 Traders Way, Currumbin www.shapers.com.au
Pick up the next edition of smorgasboarder at any of these fine businesses - out in March. Businesses that advertise in smorgasboarder allow us to bring you the magazine for FREE. So, be sure to support them! Ewingsdale Rd, Byron Bay maddog.com.au
MC SURF DESIGNS 02 6685 8778 - 3 Banksia
Drive, Byron Bay www.mcsurf.com.au
MUNRO SURFBOARDS 02 6685 6211 - 29 Acacia St, Byron Bay munrosurfboards.com.au T&C SURF DESIGN / McCOY 02 6685 7485 10 Acacia Street, Byron Bay
BYRON BAY LONGBOARDS 02 6685 5244 Shop 1 - 89 Jonson St, Byron Bay
MADDOG BEACH SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6466 4 Jonson St, Byron Bay www.maddog.com.au HO’OKUPU 02 6685 8861 - 2/9 Lawson St, Byron Bay hookupusurf.com UNPLUGGED 02 6685 7441 - Shop 1/ 2 Lawson St, Byron Bay www.unpluggedbyronbay.com
LENNOX HEAD SURF SHOP 02 6687 7038
71 Ballina St, Lennox Head
ALL ABOVE BOARD 02 6687 7522 68 Ballina St, Lennox Head
MADDOG SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6094
45 River St, Ballina www.maddog.com.au
TRIPLE X WETSUITS 02 6686 3939 - 10 Piper Drive, Ballina www.triple-x.com.au
GUNTHER ROHN 02 6681 5879 - 3/10 Piper
Drive, Ballina www.guntherrohn.com
THE PLANK SHOP 02 6645 8362 Top of the Hill, Yamba
NSW MID NORTH COAST GANGSTA SURF 1/15 Orlando Street, Coffs Harbour
FLANAGAN SURFBOARDS 0432 361 694
Unit 26, 22 Lawson Cres, Coffs Harbour www.flanagansurfboards.com
BURFORD REINFORCED PLASTICS
0415 789 706 - 7/25 Leonard Pde, Currumbin
DIVERSE SURF 07 5598 4848 - 476 Gold
Coast Hwy Tugun www.diversesurf.com.au DORRINGTON SURFBOARDS 07 5599 4030 16 Musgrave Street, Kirra www.dorringtonsurfboards.com KIRRA SURF/WORLD SURFARIS 07 5536 3922 8 Creek St, Bilinga www.kirrasurf.com.au UNDERGROUND SURF 07 5599 1040 Shop 3/31 McLean St, Coolangatta www.undergroundsurf.com.au COOLANGATTA BOARD STORE 07 5536 7850 152 Griffith St, Coolangatta www.cbsboardstore.com COOLY SURF 07 5536 1470 - Cnr Dutton St & Marine Pde, Coolangatta
NSW NORTH COAST SIDEWAYS 07 5524 6699 - 13-21 Greenway Dr,
Tweed Heads sidewaysboardsports.com.au FULL FORCE SURFBOARDS 07 5524 2933 18/48 Machinery Dve,Tweed Heads SURF XCESS 02 6674 5350 88 Marine Parade, Kingscliff CABARITA SURF SHOP 02 6676 3151 1/38 Tweed Coast Rd, Cabarita Beach
ELUSIV SURFBOARDS
3/16 Coast Rd, Cabarita Beach BRUNSWICK SURF 02 6685 1283 1/12 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads www.brunswicksurf.com.au McTAVISH 02 6680 8807 - 91 Centenial Circuit, Byron Bay www.mctavish.com.au ESP SURFBOARDS 0404 059 321 - 2/81 Centennial Circuit, Byron Bay www.espsurfshop.com.au PARKES AUSTRALIA 02 6685 6627 4/83 Centennial Court, Byron Bay www.parkesaustralia.com MADDOG SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6022
1/125 Gordon St, Port Macquarie www.saltwaterwine.com.au SANDY FEET 02 6584 1995 5/21 Clarence St, Port Macquarie www.sandyfeetsurf.com.au JUNGLE SURF 02 6555 8556 - 86 Manning Street, Tuncurry www.junglesurf.com.au SALTWATER WINE 02 6554 7979 5 Wharf St, Forster www.saltwaterwine.com.au BOOMERANG BEACH SURF 02 6554 0351 Shop 4, Boomerang Dve, Pacific Palms GRAFFITI SURF DESIGNS 02 4981 3409 43 Donald St, Nelson Bay, Newcastle
NEWCASTLE NEWCASTLE SURF DESIGNS 02 4968 9989 4 Maitland Rd, Mayfield SAM EGAN SURFBOARDS 02 4969 7299 28 Maitland Rd, Islington www.samegan.com.au SURF FACTORY 16 Maitland Rd, Islington www.thesurffactory.com.au MARK RICHARDS SURFSHOP 02 4961 3088 755 Hunter St, Newcastle www.markrichardssurfboards.com SURFHOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY 61 Hunter St, Newcastle surfhousephotography.com BREAKAWAY SURF 02 4929 1144 - Shop 6 Hunter Street Mall, Newcastle PACIFIC DREAMS 02 4926 3355 - 7 Darby St, Newcastle www.pacificdreams.com.au SANBAH SURF 02 4962 2420 - Shop 27, The Junction Fair, Union St, Newcastle www.sanbah.com.au BREAKAWAY SURF CO. 02 4943 2699 181 Pacific Hwy Charlestown EGAN’S 02 4945 8055 575 Pacific Hwy, Belmont THE SURF SHACK 02 4945 8965 703 Pacific Hwy, Belmont South SWANSEA SURF SHOP 02 4971 4422 164 Pacific Hwy, Swansea swanseasurf.com.au CENTRAL COAST BEACHIN’ SURF 02 43 96 5159
07 5534 3777 - 5 Stewart Rd, Currumbin
WOODY JACK SURFBOARDS
SALTWATER WINE 02 6584 4877
WATER SURF+ART+CAFE
Distinctively relaxed atmosphere, exceptional food, coffee and tea, great service, photographic art from Australia’s best photographers, exquisite gifts and select surfwear and boards. (02) 6651 4500 370 Harbour Drive, Coffs Harbour Jetty www.watersurfartcafe.com THE LOG SHACK 02 6658 0223 - 392 Harbour Dve, The Jetty Strip, Coffs Harbour www.thelogshack.com.au OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 02 6655 7007 7 Bayldon Dr, Raleigh www.outerislandsurfboards.com
VALLA SURFBOARDS 02 6568 8909
8 Monro St, Nambucca Heads www.vallasurfboards.com.au
COASTAL CURVES 02 6568 6902 - Ridge St,
Nambucca Heads www.coastalcurves.com
CRESCENT HEAD SURF CO. 02 6562 8306
33 Smith St, Kempsey
CRESCENT HEAD SURF SHOP 02 6566 0550 Crescent Head Tavern, Crescent Head
CRESO EXPRESSO 4 Shore Holiday Park, Crescent Head
INNER VISION SURF ‘N’ SKATE 02 6583 7790 80 William St, Port Macquarie
262 Main Rd, Toukley BOARD CITY 02 4397 1092 - 150 Main Rd, Toukley www.boardcity.com.au ADRIFT SURF 02 4332 8355 - 133 The Entrance Rd, The Entrance www.adriftsurf.com.au BOARDERLINE SURF SKATE 02 4332 7175 421 The Entrance Rd, Long Jetty www.boarderlinesurfskate.com SURFERS CHOICE 02 4334 6532 473 The Entrance Rd, Long Jetty www.surferschoice.com.au BATEAU BAY SURF N SPORT 02 4332 1157 101a Bateau Bay Road, Bateau Bay ONE EIGHTY SURF COMPANY 02 4385 8440 Shop 2, 82a Ocean View Dve, Wamberal www.180surfco.com.au ALPINE BEACH 02 4367 4944 177 The Entrance Road, Erina www.alpinebeach.com.au SLIMES 02 4365 5511 1/203 The Entrance Rd, Erina THREE POINTS SURF 02 4382 1541 170 Avoca Dve, Avoca Beach
NORTHERN BEACHES BEACH WITHOUT SAND 02 9918 2763
STAND UP PADDLE GEAR AUSTRALIA
02 9986 3420 6/53 Myora Rd, Terrey Hills www.supgearaustralia.com BALMORAL BOARDS 02 9970 8600 1228 Pittwater Rd, Narrabeen www.balmoralboards.com.au WICKS SURF CENTRE 02 9971 0760 1103 Pittwater Road, Collaroy Beach LONG REEF SURF 02 9982 4829 1012 Pittwater Rd, Collaroy www.longreefsurf.com.au WIND SURF ’N’ SNOW 02 9971 0999 17 Anzac Ave, Collaroy www.windsurfnsnow.com.au THE PERFECT WAVE 02 9939 0890 Suite 38, 42-46 Wattle Rd Brookvale www.theperfectwave.com.au BENNETT SURFBOARDS 02 9905 5157 180 Harbord Rd, Brookvale DRIPPING WET SURF CO. 02 9977 3549 398 Pittwater Rd, Mona Vale; 02 9977 3549 - 93 North Steyne, Manly www.dripwetsurf.com SUNSHINE SURFING 02 9977 4399 - 89 Pittwater Rd, Manly www.sunshinesurfing.com.au ALOHA MANLY STYLE 02 9977 3777 44 Pittwater Rd, Manly www.alohasurfmanly.com.au MANLY SURFBOARDS 02 9976 0591 - 46 North Steyne Rd, Manly www.basesurfboards.com SALTMOTION 02 9976 6518 Market Place, Manly www.saltmotion.com MANLY LONGBOARD CO. 02 9977 0093 39 Belgrave St, Manly manlylongboard.com SURFECTION 02 9969 1011 - 522 Military Rd, Mosman www.surfectionmosman.com
SYDNEY PATAGONIA 93 Bathurst St, Sydney
www.patagonia.com.au BONDI UNDERGROUND 02 9365 0870 2/72 Campbell Pde, Bondi Beach DRIPPING WET SURF CO. 02 9300 0055 180186 Campbell Parade Bondi Beach SURF CULTURE 02 9389 5477 - 40 Bronte Rd, Bondi Junction www.surfculture.com.au MAROUBRA SURF AND SKATE 02 9344 4250 198 Marine Parade Maroubra
EASTCOAST STAND UP PADDLE Dedicated to SUP - Sydney’s original Stand Up Paddle outlet. Performance, flatwater, race, and distance boards – we have a board to suit all skill levels.
0413 456009 0418 294854 27 Throsby Close Barden Ridge eastcoaststanduppaddle.com.au
1a Nth Avalon Rd, Avalon
RAISED BY WOLVES 02 9918 8861 - 40 Old
Barrenjoey Rd, Avalon, 02 9997 4838 Shop 3, 8-10 Waratah St, Mona Vale www.raisedbywolves.com.au LITTLE DRAGON 0403 974 967 1 Bramley Lane, Newport Beach RON WADE SURF DESIGN 02 9979 7071 23 Bassett Street, Mona Vale ronwadesurfboards.com.au CHANNEL ISLAND SURFBOARDS 02 9997 8266 4/76 Darly St, Mona Vale cisurfboards.com QUIKSILVER MONA VALE 02 9999 3727 1729 Pitt Water Rd, Mona Vale DIVISION SURF 02 9979 5334 Cnr Bungan & Waratah Sts, Mona Vale, divisionsurf.com.au SUPER SWELL 02 9144 3229 166 Mona Vale Rd, St Ives
LESSONS TOURS AND SALES Call Peter Japp on 0488 887 SUP or 0488 88 77 87
sutherlandshiresupschool.com.au
jan/feb 2012
Jan2012_Smorgas_directories.indd 190
9/01/12 4:49 PM
BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS - 02 6495 9900
Widgeram Rd, Merimbula www.bushrat.com MERIMBULA SURF SHOP 02 6495 1515 Merimbula Drive, Merimbula SALTWATER DREAM 02 6495 1600 39 Market St, Merimbula
COUNTRY VIC
CRONULLA STANDUP PADDLEBOARD Everything to do with S.U.P Lessons, Hire, Sales of New and Used equipment, Accesories, Apparel & more 02 9544 2293 0400 085 823 Shop 3,13-15 The Kingsway Cronulla, NSW 2230 www.cronullasup.com CRONULLA SUTHERLAND JACKSON SURFBOARDS 02 9524 2700
57 Captain Cook Drive, Caringbah www.jacksonsurfboards.com.au TRIPLE BULL 02 9524 4822 - 41 Captain Cook Dr, Caringbah; 02 9544 0354 - 23 Kingsway, Cronulla www.triplebullsurf.com CRONULLA SURF DESIGN 02 9544 0433 8 Cronulla St, Cronulla www.cronullasurfdesign.com.au KING SURFBOARDS 02 9521 3645 577 Princes Hwy, Kirrawee
WOLLONGONG RETRO WOMBAT 02 4267 1322
228 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul www.retrowombat.com FINBOX BOARDSTORE 02 4268 2050 1/269 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul thefinbox.blogspot.com BYRNE SURF AND SKI 02 4268 3455 303 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul 02 4226 1122 -115 Princes Highway, Fairy Meadow byrnesurfboardsaustralia.com SURF PIT 02 4283 7196 - 2/100 Railway St, Corrimal www.surfpit.com.au SKIPP SURFBOARDS 02 4229 1202 231 Crown Street, Wollongong (factory showroom); 02 4228 8878 24 Flinders St, Wollongong www.skippsurfboards.com.au CARABINE SURF DESIGNS 02 4229 9462 36 Flinders St, Wollongong
NSW SOUTH COAST SHELLHARBOUR SURF & SKATE 02 4295 3373
1/16B Addison St, Shellharbour ZINK SURF 02 4233 1189 - 136 Terralong St, Kiama www.zinksurf.com.au NATURAL NECESSITY SURF SHOP 02 4234 1636 115 Fern St, Gerringong www.nnss.com.au AQUATIQUE 02 4421 8159 - 125-127 Junction St, Nowra; 02 4441 5530 - 55 Owen St, Huskisson www.aquatique.com.au BUSTED SURF CO. 02 4447 3485 10 Fairlands St, Culburra Beach OCEAN & EARTH 02 4441 2482 12 Springs Rd, Sussex Inlet www.oceanearth.com SUN & SURF SHOP 02 4441 1938 Shop 1, 168 Jacobs Dve, Sussex Inlet MARK RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN 0427 767 176 441A Bendalong Rd, Bendalong www.markrabbidge.com AKWA SURF 02 4454 5222 - Shop 1, Mellick’s Corner, Princess Hwy, Milton www.akwasurf.com.au
SOUTHERN MAN SURF SHOP
02 4454 0343 -138 Princes Hwy, Ulladulla www.southernman.com.au SALTWATER DREAM 02 4472 3811 2 Bay Central, Batemans Bay OFFSHORE SURF SHOP 02 4474 4350 66 Vulcan St, Moruya offshoresurf.com.au NAROOMA SURF & SKATE 02 4476 1422 30 Princes Hwy, Narooma DSC SURFBOARDS 0424 867 962 Princes Highway, Narooma BERMAGUI SURF SHOP 02 6493 4849 4/28 Lamont St, Bermagui RAW SURFBOARDS 02 6494 4466 1291 Tathra Road, Kalaru www.rawsurfboards.com.au
SURF SHACK 03 5155 4933 507 Esplanade, Lakes Entrance ATOLL TRAVEL 1800 622 310 - 4 Bridge Street, Foster www.atolltravel.com SERIOUS SURF STUFF 03 5674 2540 1 Williams St , Inverloch VORTEX SURF & SKATE 03 5672 4112 54 McBride Ave, Wonthaggi PHILLIP ISLAND OUTEREEF 03 5678 5677 - 73 Phillip Island Rd, San Remo www.outereef.com.au
FULLCIRCLE SURF 03 5678 5873
115 Marine Pde, San Remo; 03 5956 7453 4-5 Vista Pl, Cape Woolamai www.fullcirclesurf.com.au ISLANTIS 03 5956 7553 - 10-12 Phillip Island Rd, Newhaven www.islantis.com.au ISLAND SURF CENTRE 03 5952 2578 147 Thompson Ave, Cowes; 03 5952 3443 65 Smiths Beach Rd, Smiths Beach www.islandsurfboards.com.au ISLAND SURF SHACK 03 5952 1659 148 Thompson Ave, Cowes
MELBOURNE ZAK SURFBOARDS 03 9416 7384
319 Victoria Rd, Thornbury www.zaksurfboards.com TRIGGER BROS SURF & SAIL 03 9537 3222 Shop 2, 1 St Kilda Rd, St Kilda www.triggerbros.com.au RPS (THE BOARD STORE) 03 9525 6475 87 Ormond Rd, Elwood www.rpstheboardstore.com BRIGHTON SURF CO. 03 9593 2211 43 Church St, Brighton SHQ BOARDSPORTS 03 9598 2867 81 Beach Rd, Sandringham www.shq.com.au MORDY SURF CENTRE 03 9580 1716 628 Main St, Mordialloc mordysurf.com.au
PAULOWNIA SURFBOARD SUPPLIES
03 9588 2533 - 45 Governor Road, Mordialloc paulowniaparadise.com.au OKE SURFBOARDS 03 9587 3553 Factory 1 1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside www.okesurfboards.com TRIGGER BROS SURF & SAIL 03 9770 2223 7 Rossmith St, Frankston; 03 5989 8402 Point Leo Rd, Point Leo; 03 5984 5670 46 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento www.triggerbros.com.au PENINSULA SURF CENTRE 03 9783 3811 40 Wells St, Frankston; 03 5975 1800 835 Nepean Hwy, Mornington; 03 5985 4637 - 2137 Pt Nepean Hwy, Rye www.peninsulasurf.com.au BALIN 03 5986 6069 - 12 Newington Ave, Rosebud www.balin.com.au BEAN SURFING 03 5984 5199 4 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento
VIC SURF COAST MURFS LONGBOARDS 03 5255 5525
82 The Terrace, Ocean Grove www.murfslongboards.com.au STRAPPER SURF 03 5255 2666 67b The Terrace, Ocean Grove www.strapper.com.au STONKER TORQUAY 03 5261 6077 - 1a Baines Cr, Torquay www.stonker.com.au HYDROPHILIC 0421 504 621 - 1C Baines Cr, Torquay www.southcoastlongboards.com.au SURF WORLD 03 5261 4606 Surf City Plaza, Torquay www.surfworld.org.au PATAGONIA 03 5261 4420 - 116 Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay www.patagonia.com.au TORQUAY SURF 03 5261 5666 - 3/108 Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay STRAPPER 03 5261 3508 - 96 Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay; 03 5261 2312 - 106 Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay www.strapper.com.au WATERMARKS PHOTO GALLERY 03 5264 7232 38-40 Bell Street, Torquay www.watermarksphotogallery.com.au TIGERFISH 03 5264 7271 - 12/15 Bell St, Torquay www.tigerfish.com.au ANGLESEA SURF CENTRE 03 5263 1530 111 Great Ocean Rd, Anglesea www. secondhandsurfboards.com.au
LORNE SURF SHOP 03 5289 1673 130 Mountjoy Pde, Lorne HODGY’S SURF CENTRE 03 5237 7883 143 Great Ocean Rd, Apollo Bay hodgys.com SHIPWRECK COAST PORT CAMPBELL TRADING CO. 03 5598 6444
27 Lord Street, Port Campbell WARRNAMBOOL SURF CENTRE 03 5562 1981 136 Koroit Street, Warrnambool SPOONS 03 5568 3452 42 Sackville Street, Port Fairy
TASMANIA LONG POINT SURF 03 6375 1717
60 Burgess Street, Bicheno BAY SURF SHOP 03 6376 1755 2 Pendrigh Place, St Helens TAS SCAMANDER BEACH SURFSHOP 03 6372 5529 6 Lagoon Esplanade, Scamander www.scamandersurf.com RED HERRING www.redherringsurf.com.au 03 6231 9001 - 75 Liverpool Street, Hobart 03 6431 2455 - 12 Mount Street, Burnie 03 6331 0984 - 127 Charles Street, Launceston 03 6272 7552 - Shop 41, Northgate
SOUTH AUSTRALIA BARREL SURF 08 8555 5422 - 10c Cadell St, Goolwa www.barrellsurf.com.au
FLY BOARDRIDING (08) 8555 5331
Shop 18, Goolwa Shopping Centre, Goolwa BIG SURF AUSTRALIA 08 8554 2399 24 Goolwa Rd, Middleton SOUTHERN SURF 08 8554 2375 36 North Tce, Port Elliot THE SURF SHOP 08 8552 5466 -15 Albert Place, Victor Harbor thesurfshop.net.au SURF ESTEEM 08 8557 7201 - Aldinga Central Shopping Centre www.surfesteem.com
THE DING KING / CLARK SURFBOARDS
0422 443 789 - 20 Cottage Road, Hackham leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au PREECE’S SOUTH PORT SURF 08 8386 0404 159 Esplanade, Port Noarlunga South www.preece-sthport-surf.com.au FLY BOARDRIDING 08 8386 0100 Shop 41 Seaford Shopping Centre www.flyboardriding.com.au ONBOARD SURF WIND SNOW 08 8294 3866 21 Saltfleet St, Port Noarlunga; 1-3 Lights Landing, Holdfast Shores, Glenelg www.onboardsurf.com.au MV2 08 8382 2468 36 Beach Road, Christies Beach
DING REPAIRS AGNES WATER/1770
COFFS HARBOUR
(Mon – Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm) 07 4974 9072
(M-F, 10-5pm, Sat & Sun 10-2:30pm) 02 6658 0223
REEF 2 BEACH
MAROOCHYDORE
BUDGEWOI
DA BOMB
(Mon – Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm) 07 5451 0620
(M-F, 10-5.30pm, weekends by appointment 0422 304 078
By appointment 0427 019 420
LONG JETTY
BRISBANE
(M-F, 9-4pm, Sat 9-12pm) 0437 032 614
EPOXY BOARD REPAIRS
SANDLOCK SURFBOARDS
PRIMITIVE SURF
(Mon-Fri, 8:30-5:30pm, Thurs 8:30am-8pm, Sat, 8:30-4pm, Sun, 10-4pm) 07 3266 1001
SOUTHPORT KOMA
(M-F 9-5pm, Sat 9-12pm) 0402 863 763
MIAMI
DINO’S DING REPAIRS
(M-F 9-5pm, Sat 9-12pm) 0409 727 735
TUGUN DIVERSE
(M-F,8:30-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9-4pm) 07 5598 4848
KIRRA
4 Piping Lane, Lonsdale, SA, 5160
www.cutloosesurf.com.au MID COAST SURF 08 83845522 - 8/200 Dyson
Road, Lonsdale www.midcoastsurf.com.au ISLAND SURF 08 8296 9776 363 Brighton Road Hove EXTREME BOARDRIDERS 08 8295 1219 1/118 Jetty Rd, Glenelg JRS SURF & SKI 08 838 47466 - Centro Colonnades; 08 8377 0322 - Westfield Marion; 08 8223 5505 -121 Grenfell St, Adelaide CBD; 08 8231 9577 - Myer Centre, Adelaide CBD; 08 8396 4822 Tea Tree Plus www.jrssurfandski.com.au WALLBRIDGE SURFBOARDS 08 8376 4914 27 Oaklands Rd, Somerton Park www.wallbridge.com.au SNOW & SURF CO. 08 8223 5277 187 Rundle St, Adelaide; 08 8332 0900 177 The Parade, Norwood www.snowsurf.com.au MTB SURF 08 8391 3311 Mount Barker YORKES SURF 08 8854 4008 Marion Bay
SKIPP SURFBOARDS
M-F,9-5:30, Thurs 9-7:30pm, Sat 9-4, Sun 10-4) 02 4228 8878
JERVIS BAY
INNER FEELING SURFBOARDS (7 days, 9-5pm) 02 4441 6756
NAROOMA
DSC SURFBOARDS (7 days, 9-5pm) 0424 867 962
THORNBURY
ZAK SURFBOARDS
(Mon-Fri,10-6pm; Sat 10-5pm) 03 9416 7384
STONKER TORQUAY (Mon – Fri, 9-5pm) 03 5261 6077
PHILLIP ISLAND
UNDERGROUND SURF
OPEN 7 DAYS - 08 8326 0939
WOOLONGONG
TORQUAY
GRB SURFBOARDS
COOLANGATTA
The largest range of surfboards, mals, SUP’s, wetsuits & 2nd hand boards is SA with over 300 boards in stock. Custom boards and SA’s cheapest ding repairs on site. 30 years and still going strong…
BUCKO’S SURFBOARD REPAIRS & RESTORATIONS
MOFFAT BEACH
(M-F 10-4pm, Sat 10-2pm) 0408 701 467
CUTLOOSE SURF
THE LOG SHACK
ISLAND SURF SHOP - COWES
(7 days, 9-5pm) 07 5599 1040
(7 days, 9-5pm) 03 5952 2578
FULL FORCE
ADELAIDE
(M-F, 9-5pm) 07 5524 2933
WALLBRIDGE SURFBOARDS
BYRON BAY
DR DING SURFBOARD REPAIRS (Mon-Fri, 8-5pm, Sat 10-4pm, Sun 10-2pm) 0431 740 940
MC SURF DESIGNS
(M-F, 9-5.30pm, Sat 9-4pm) 08 8376 4914
SOUTH ADELAIDE THE DING KING (M-F, 9-5pm) 0422 443 789
(M-F 9-5pm, Sat 9-1pm) 02 6685 8778
YAMBA
THE PLANK SHOP 02 6645 8362
TOMBSTONE SURFBOARDS
(Tues-Fri, 9-4pm, Sat, 9-12pm) 0432 330 826
FIX BROKEN BOARDS?
Promote your repair business for $15 an edition. Call 0401 345 201 jan/feb 2012
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Jordie Brown, Grayme “Gally” Galbraith and Ray McIntosh
SURF DIRECTORY UNDERTOW? FLASH RIPS? KEEP KIDS
SAFE!
AS SEEN
ON TV
ONLY $39.99
CAN YOU AFFORD
A $50,000 WIPEOUT? SURF TRAVEL INSURANCE
from INDO SURF & LINGO
indosurf.com.au
SURF BUSINESS
FOR SALE www.learn2surfstrap.com Includes website, stock, patent, advertising and marketing material
SELLING UNDER STOCK VALUATION!
Cheap business. Enquiries sales@learn2surfstrap.com
FRIENDLY COMPETITION FUNDRAISER
JAN JUC BEACH SAW A SUCCESFUL FUNDRAISING EFFORT AT THE 2011 SURF FEST, WITH A FEW BIG NAME VISITORS TO BOOT.
In late November, Victorian surfers slipped on the rubber and got in the waves for SURF FEST - a unique community surfing event organised by Surf World Museum Torquay and students from the SEDA education program based in Torquay. The entire event, run by the students, saw a range of shortboard, longboard and retro boards dragged out of the back of cars at the contest including two Mark Richard’s twins from the seventies. To add a bit of extra excitement, world champions Mark Richards, Simon Anderson and Martin Potter helped make the day even more special for all by coming along and getting involved. All funds raised at this year’s SURF FEST went to the Quiksilver Foundation in support of their environmental, social and youth programs.
ADVERTISE IN THE
SURF DIRECTORY Super-affordable rates for the smallest of budgets. Call 0401 345 201 192
Next time you’re in Torquay, make sure to get your dose of surf history at Surf World Museum Torquay at Surf City Plaza, Beach Road. www.surfworld.com.au LEFT: MR spends some time with the SEDA students BOTTOM LEFT: Sam Suendermann and Molly Powell PHOTOS supplied by Surf World Museum Torquay
jan/feb 2012
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LOCAL ARTISTS SKIPP TO IT
1.
THE CREW AT SKIPP SURFBOARDS RECENTLY HELD A PHOTOGRAPHIC EXHIBITION TO SHOWCASE WORKS OF LOCAL PHOTOGRAPHY ENTHUSIASTS AND TO RAISE MONEY FOR MOVEMBER. Each month for seven months local artists had lodged photos on specific topics ranging from destinations, waves, action and the beach. The exhibition was to exhibit the winners and their works. “It is a night to get to know and support local up and coming artists whilst raising money for two fantastic foundations. “said organiser Chloe Skipp. “Some artists are as young as 16 years old. They range from amateur to professional.”
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On the evening popular local photographer Aaron Hughes and 60s surf photographer Dave Milnes also exhibited. Despite torrential rain, the night was a hit. Over 100 people attended and raised just over $250 in support for Movember. From 7pm, attendees rocked the night away to the sweet tunes of local girls Las Juanitas and Wollongong born Swedish singer, Amanda King. Coopers and Yalumba wines were in steady supply along with moustache-shaped short breads and sushi. Barberista removed numerous beards and shaped interesting moustaches on the night for a donation to the foundation.
New styles in the latest superstretch rubber.
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FEB
2012
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Wis years of local experience and ze ‘ighest quality materials, every ZEE WETSUIT is built to last. Made locally and 100% Australian owned.
BOTH STORES, SHE IS OPEN ZEE 6 DAYS!
www.skippsurfboards.com.au 8.
OPEN HOURS: NOOSA: MOOLOOLABA:
Mon-Fri: 9 - 5 Sat: 9 - 12 07 5474 1010 07 5444 7007
Unit 2, 15 Venture Drive, Noosaville, QLD 122 Brisbane Road, NEW STORE! Mooloolaba, QLD
sales@zeewetsuits.com
www.zeewetsuits.com jan/feb 2012
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Available
7.
For more on Skipp Surfboards in Wollongong, see the website:
1. From left: Ryan Crasta, Rick Di Pietro, Aaron Hughes, Jeremey Sharp 2. Chloé Skipp (Organiser) 3. Josh Skipp 4. Sarah Amadio 5. Wollongong-born now Swedish, singer Amanda King 6. John Skipp 7. Enjoying the exhibition 8. Photographer for the evening Jose Martinez (with moustache shortbread) and exhibiter Aaron Hughes
IMPROVED QUALITY BETTER MEMORY EXTREME STRETCH KEEPS ITS SHAPE LONGER
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