Smorgasboarder Xmas 2015

INSIDE: BUILDING A CARDBOARD SURFBOARD | INTRODUCING NEW COLUMNS - THE SURF SAGE & SMOKE SIGNALS | AMAZING SURF TRAVEL

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KIWIS SANDY RYAN GOES SURFING WITH SOME MATES FROM ACROSS THE DITCH

Photo: Jim Culley

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HUGE RANGE, U WON’T BUY BETTA! OPEN 7 DAYS Goodtime Surf and Sail

29 Ipswich Rd Woolloongabba, QLD + 61 7 3391 8588 www.goodtime.com.au

LET’S BOOGIE

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LET’S RIP

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Buy or Layby NOW for Christmas XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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THIS TIME OF YEAR No matter what your faith or beliefs may be Christmas presents all of us with an opportunity to express, and indeed show how much we care about others.

It’s a chance to grab quality time with family and friends; to celebrate the life we lead in this great corner of the planet.

Indeed all of our stories in this edition are centred around doing just that, sharing the good times and treasuring what we have...

Along with a couple of little treasures of the surfboard kind.

This time of year also presents us with the opportunity to pause and reflect for one small moment in our busy lives and consider how we can have a positive impact on the lives of others, beyond just our family and friends, and take affirmative action to make the world a better place, to help those less fortunate who need assistance and just generally be a good person; to be the person we hopefully all aspire to be.

Now it goes without saying your local break come the Christmas holidays becomes quite crowded and yes that may have an impact on your personal wave count. No amount of huffing and puffing and swearing though is going to change this fact. Please remember why many of us surf; to relax, unwind, have fun, share a laugh. So share the good times so everyone gets to have a good time. Share the waves so everyone gets to have a few waves. Selfishly snake and grab every wave you can to get your personal wave tally up will only make you a knob, not some selfperceived wave god. No one owns the ocean. Be considerate.

If there is any one surfer at this particular moment that epitomises this selfless attitude of showing goodwill to others, expecting nothing in return, it is Mick Fanning. Far beyond his feats on the tour and in claiming three world titles is the way so often of late he has taken time out of his busy schedule to make life a little better for someone less fortunate.

Since his well-publicised brush in July with a toothy ocean compatriot in South Africa, Mick has made wishes come true for those suffering personal hardships. Following his encounter Mick donated his $75k appearance fee for the exclusive interview with 60 Minutes to Ballina shark attack victim Matt Lee’s recovery fund. The following month he went surfing with a young girl called Xavia who suffers from Cystic Fibrosis causing her to go in and out of hospital on a monthly basis. Most recently he took to the waves again and made a dream come true for teenager Ben Beasley who is in recovery from brain cancer. Mick Fanning’s feats as human being are now becoming more revered worldwide than his surfing ability.

Mick has shown there is a lot more to surfing, and what it means to be a surfer, than merely the individual riding waves.

This holiday season, follow Mick’s lead and be a legend in and out of the water by showing there is more to your makeup as a surfer than your ability on the wave. Have fun, be safe and consider others.

Cheers!

rders

sboa the Smorga 8

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WELCOME

“M I C K H A S S H O W N T H E R E I S A LOT MORE TO SURFING, AND WHAT IT MEANS TO BE A SURFER" Mick Fanning back home on the GC after his sharky encounter Photo: Craig Bessant - www.facebook.com/FOAMBALLS

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ALSO AVAILABLE

Custom Built This board has been custom built by hand in Australia. In fact, Mark can build just about anything to suit the surfer, home décor, the occasion and the budget.

• Fin boxes with all wood covers • Wood coloured fin boxes • Fin box install kits • Clear board grip tape - Let the beauty of the balsa show through with clear Versagrip Traction Tape.

Environmentally friendly and suits all size boards.

• Timber fins • Surfboards • Blanks • Cork tail pads & SUP deck grip

He is very particular with the stringer combinations. This board has 40 stringers and is for a 40th birthday.

Balsawood is a fast grown wood that is sustainable. All boards and production are of an environmental friendly practice.

Riley has been building boards since 1995 and continue to build unique boards. They build from light performance shortboards, to solid wallhangers, to classic birthday presents, light 12ft SUP and everything inbetween.

With over 1,000 sticks of balsa in stock to choose from in big 160mm x 75 x 3050mm pieces, you just can’t go wrong.

• Aussie-made leashes • Raw balsa/ cedar DIY board kits • Instructional DVDs • Board racks • Tide clocks • LICK liquid surf wax.

Wholesale enquires welcome

SURFBOARDS THAT DON’T COST THE EARTH!

SHIPPING ANYWHERE, INCLUDING NZ 10

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HANDCRAFTED IN AUSTRALIA Riley Balsawood Surfboards are made using renewable resource balsa and recycled polystyrene for performance, durability, beauty and lower environmental impact

Call 0412 376 464 or Email mark@riley.com.au

www.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au Australian Environmentally-friendly handcrafted surfboards for the individual in all of us, with a guarantee. Enjoy Responsibly XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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WHAT'S

INSIDE...

SMILES ON DIALS

24 The great work of DSA volunteers

DETAILS, CREDITS & STUFF Grab SMORGASBOARDER FREE at quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafés on the coast of Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Tasmania, Western Australia and New Zealand... Be nice and buy something while you’re there. Or read it online.

MAGAZINE SUBSCRIBE FOR HOME DELIVERY

If you can’t get to a store or other venue to pick the mag up in person, you can also choose to have SMORGASBOARDER delivered to your door. See www.smorgasboarder.com.au. A few back issues are also available for $5 a piece, plus t-shirts & more!

$25 AUS & NZ - 1 YEAR - SIX EDITIONS.

THE COVER SHOT AINE TYRRELL 62 Surf & song

Sandy Ryan, the Phillip Island madman we first featured way back in Smorgasboarder issue #1 graces our cover in this fantastic shot by NZ surf photographer Jim Culley.

The full story on page 40, more of pics on jimages.co.nz.

SURFING A CARDBOARD 68 A reader puts it to the test

SMORGASBOARDERS

CONTRIBUTING...

ADVERTISING/EDITORIAL: Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 345 201

This is YOUR mag. It’s here for you to tell your stories, show your pictures and share your thoughts - and score some free stuff on the way too, to boot.

NEW ZEALAND: ‘Jiff’ Morris jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz 0220 943 913 DESIGN/EDITORIAL: Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au

THE USUAL LATEST

14 Reader photos 20 News & Community

GEAR

86 Surfboards 100 Ding Repairs

SOUTH AUSTRALIA: James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au 0410 175 552

E: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au P: PO Box 501, Moffat Beach QLD 4551

There’s only a few of us here, so please be patient when you get in touch - we’ll try our best to get back to you as soon as humanly possible. Get in touch to discuss any ideas you’d like to be considered for a future edition or online.

ACCOUNTS: Louise Gough louise@smorgasboarder.com.au GEAR TESTS & REVIEWS: Gus Brown gus@smorgasboarder.com.au

BEST NON-DAILY PUBLICATION

QUEENSLAND MULTIMEDIA AWARDS 2013

CLOSEOUT

105 Surfer’s Directories 108 Movies 109 Socials 114 Aloha Barry

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Great summer e ns! Se surfboard desig re... mo Page 86 for

WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU

Smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.

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READER PHOTOS 14

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Boardwalking... Black Apache team rider Jye McDonald riding the Shewolf.

Photo: Katrina McDonald, Rivermouth General Store, Tomakin NSW This issue’s reader photos score a copy of the new Clutch CD, “Psychic Warfare” (review in last issue).

Send in your cracker shots for next edition to score yourself a pair of Barz Optics ‘Tavarua’ floating sunnies! letters@smorgasboarder.com.au

DIAMOND DRIVE

MINION

9’1 / 22 ¼” / 2 7/8” 9’2 / 22 ½” / 3” 9’4 / 23” / 3 1/16” FINS: 2 + 1

5’9 / 19” / 2 1/2” 5’11 / 19 3/8” / 2 1/2” 6’1 / 19 3/4” / 2 11/16” FINS: 4 + 1

EFC ENGINEERED FLEX CONSTRUCTION | SMORGASBOARDER 15 022015 4226 1322 XMAS info@watermanssurf.com.au

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READER PHOTOS 16

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While Queensland was experiencing the October doldrums, Cameron MacDougall from Caloundra (aged 12) and his brothers were enjoying heaven in the Mentawais at Awera Island.

Photo: Karen MacDougall

This issue’s reader photos score a copy of the new Clutch CD, “Psychic Warfare” (review in last issue). Send in your cracker shots for next edition to score yourself a pair of Barz Optics ‘Tavarua’ floating sunnies! letters@smorgasboarder.com.au XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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CRAZY KIWIS 18

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Got a cracker Kiwi surf shot? Love your coffee? If you’re in NZ, send in your surf shots and you could score a kilogram of beans from the folks Raglan Roast! The first bag goes to Jase Johns of NZSHRED in Queenstown for these line-ups.

Email yours to letters@smorgasboarder.com.au Great coffee, roasted daily. Volcom Lane, Raglan NZ

WWW.RAGLANROAST.CO.NZ

XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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o b a C

AKA: THE NEWS... COMMUNITY WHAT’S HAPPENINGS & OTHER ANNOUNCEMENTS

Photochromic bi-focal lenses

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Polarised • Polarised Bi Focal • Polarised Photochromic • Polarised PC (Melanin infused) • RX Prescription

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letters@smorgasboarder.com.au

smorgasboarder

ABOVE: Mark Riley, working his surfboard-building magic with balsa wood.

PNG BALSA BOARDS Keen on some adventure in Papua New Guinea? Grab the chance to do some surfing, fishing, snorkelling and even help build a PNG grown balsa surfboard with the locals?

Famed balsa surfboard craftsman Mark Riley is taking a group of 12 people to PNG for a 7-day, all-ages holiday in early January 2016.

It is an unbelievable opportunity to not only see where Mark gets his balsawood and experience building a balsa board with him but also test his range of balsa boards from short to fish to long and maybe even bring one home with you.

Mark says “We are taking a small group of 12 people as I like to keep it personal with the surfers and also show the locals how we make eco friendly balsa boards because they have the best balsa in the world and it’s on their doorstep.”

For more on the travel package contact Mark at mark@riley.com.au or call him on 0412 376 464. To register for the newsletter to get updates go to shop.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au/contact-us RIGHT: Surfboard shaping, PNG-style...

www.barzoptics.com Showroom - Unit 11 / 4 Leda Drive, Burleigh Heads QLD 4220

Ph 07 5576 4365 20

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ONE LOVE

Sing it with a Jamaican accent and sway your head from side to side… “One love, one heart….” Ahh, the Bob Marley classic. You have to love it and we love the sound of a new surf brand called 1 Love Surfing started by Benny Bradley together with partners Caine Mazoudier and Rob Timar from Sydney’s Northern Beaches. Benny explained to us the idea behind the concept.

“The idea behind 1 Love Surfing is to create a members only surf brand which aims at bringing together passionate surfers of all ages and skills who are dedicated to upholding the ethics of surfing, preserving the positive energy of the sport and protecting our ocean playgrounds and beaches.

“Surfing isn’t just a past time to many but a way of life. 1 Love Surfing is about spreading the positivity that surfing creates, a balance of exercise and an appreciation of Mother Nature. We want our members to proudly uphold the ethics of surfing, respecting themselves, their fellow surfers and the power of the ocean. With this in mind our surf breaks will remain peaceful.”

“1 Love Surfing is not a pro surfing brand nor is it for wannabes who wear surf labels just to be cool, it’s just for real people who love their surfing.

1Love Surfing is not about fashion but about belonging to an exclusive society who share the same love for surfing.

“Membership will be based initially on a series of qualifying questions related to the rules and etiquette of surfing. It is then matched to our limited-edition products and the availability of our affiliate partners’ generous discount program. There are 4 membership packages available that include the ‘Pitted’ package for experienced short board surfers, ‘Soul Defender,’ for mals, mini-mals and retro board riders, the ‘Bug’ package for new surfers and the ‘Feel younger’ package for the ladies.

The one-off membership fee of $74 comprises a pack of T-shirt, stickers for your surfboards and car and a Member Privileges card. Benny also informed us of 1 Love Surfing’s intention to donate to surfing-related causes into the future and that they are currently supporting the Surfrider Foundation of Australia. www.1lovesurfing.com

MEDAL HAUL Wondering where to stay on your next surf road trip through NSW? It’s fair to say you couldn’t go wrong staying at North Coast Holiday Parks or South Coast Holiday Parks.

In this year alone North Beach at Mylestom near Coffs Harbour was named Best Holiday Park and Bermagui was selected for a special commendation at the Caravan and Camping Awards of Excellence, that’s on top of awards won earlier in the year by Corindi Beach, Lennox Head and Evans Head, along with several staff receiving accolades for their outstanding work and exceptional customer service.

TOP: Amber Kolo, Marketing Team. ABOVE: NCHP North Beach, Managers Jack & Peggy Kelly XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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SO MUCH SURF GEAR IN STORE YOU WILL BE AMAZED! FROM SURFBOARDS TO SKATEBOARDS, WETTIES, SURFWEAR AND ALL THE LATEST GADGETS

SURFWARE AUSTRALIA BODYBO A PACKS RD

$196

(INCLUD ES BO FINS, CO DYBOARD, ILED WR IST CORD)

SUNSHINE COAST SUPERSTORE 2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD | Telephone (07) 5491 3620 Open Mon to Sat, 9am to 5pm and Sun 9am to 4pm. Closed Christmas Day

SURFWAREAUSTRALIA.COM

Become part of an exclusive members only surf brand.

(Surfers of all ages and skills welcome) Membership has its privileges: Visit www.1lovesurfing.com for details.

Ambassadors wanted: Apply for a 1 Love Surfing Ambassadorship.

RESPECT THE RIDE!

WA WAVE COLOSSEUM Back in our Spring Edition last year we mentioned WaveGarden had plans for a wave park in Western Australia. Well in case you missed the latest news they have unveiled an ambitious $120 million proposal that would see WA’s home of football, Subiaco Oval, converted to an urban surfing village with parklands, market space, apartments and an artificial wave lagoon as the centrepiece.

The Subi Surf Park idea is a joint venture between WA architects MJA Studio and the Wave Park Group, who hold exclusive rights to the development and operation of Wavegarden surf parks in Australia. Talk about kicking goals! And this is hot on the heels of the WaveGarden that opened in northern Wales, which we featured in our Spring 2015 Edition. www.waveparkgroup.com

PORTRAIT PROJECT Noosa based photographer, Paul Smith’s Sunday Portrait Project takes viewers on a weekly visual journey of some of the interesting personalities he has photographed from high profile musicians and celebrities through to everyday unknowns he met on the street. Personalities include musical legends Robert Plant - Led Zeppelin and BB King; Florence & The Machine; controversial TV chef Pete Evans; Sportsmen Ian Thorpe and Steve Waugh; Surfers/ musicians Jack Johnson and Donavan Frankenreiter; good friend and ex-IronMan Darren Mercer, a fearsome and heavily tattooed Maori underworld figure; and Sydney homeless shoe-shiner, Brian.

Yet it is his accompanying short commentaries where he shares his personal insights and encounters with his subjects that has enthralled his followers on Facebook. Paul’s Sunday Portrait Project will be exhibited at The J Lounge in Noosa Junction from 5 December 2015 – 31 January 2016, 10am till 5pm. www.paulsmithimages.com.au www.facebook.com/PaulSmithImage 22

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SMILES ON DIALS --

Featuring Matilda Wilson [Tilly]

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“What caught my eye was the enjoyment and smiles on these kids and adults faces, it was just unbelievable.”

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What caught my eye was the enjoyment and smiles on these kids and adults faces, it was just unbelievable. Looking through the lens of my camera brought a tear to my eye and many others there as well! Grown men saying to me ‘’How good is this, Pugs?’’ It really makes you realise how lucky you are.

As we don’t have any children of our own, my wife Daniela (who is a Team Leader with the DSA) and I can’t wait for this event to come around. We absolutely love it! Every time we go, we try and take a few friends with us, the more the better.

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I first met these lovely people three years ago, Tilly, Andy and Angie Wilson at a DSA event at Currumbin. I was asked to go along and take a few happy snaps of the kids and adults surfing.

Cerebral Palsy, Down Syndrome, Asperger’s, amputees and so on - anyone who has a disability you will find there.

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WORDS & PHOTOS: Pugs

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GLEN ‘PUGS’ HARDWICK – the man behind the lens of lookslikeme.com.au spends a lot of his time lending a hand with the Gold Coast chapter of the Disabled Surfers Association (DSA). He gives us a little insight into the good work these great volunteers do in the surf.

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‘Smiles on Dials’ is what it is all about, and just a few hours on a Sunday once a month for five months during Spring and Summer isn’t that much to ask to get along and lend a hand. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed.

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There are a few single mums there also who I admire immensely. It must be hard to fulfil a work commitment and to look after their kids with a disability, but they wouldn’t have it any other way.

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This event couldn’t happen without all the volunteers, and all you hear is how good this event is from the parents (who in my eyes are the ones who I recognise as the legends here).

They can’t thank you enough for helping out.

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Andy and Angie are amazing people and the way Andy - a surfer himself - takes to the water with his daughter is just amazing to me, and many others that have enjoyed their smiles. She can light up a room easily.

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BELOW: Pugs with Tilly

“It must be hard to fulfil a work commitment and to look after their kids with a disability.”

For more information, see www.disabledsurfers.org.

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@sunzapper XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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LETTERS letters@smorgasboarder.com.au

GREETINGS CARD “Hi there, I have recently built a cardboard core surfboard after being inspired by the article in a recentish Smorgasboarder. I wrote this reflection after completion and thought I would send it to you as a suggestion. I am not sure what the proper format is for this - as like the surfboard this is a first for me, so I have attached the article. Thanks for all your work on a great publication.”

Andrew Hallett Check out Andrew’s unbelievable cardboard creation on page 68!

REDUCE MY ODDS “Hi guys, the last issue you did a very detailed insight to the whole shark epidemic.

As a practical statistical surfer I’d like more insight into how to reduce my odds.

I know the odds are very remote given I live on the Sunny Coast but could you do a follow up article on how to reduce your odds and what to do if you find yourself in that situation.”

decade, allow me to give you an unsolicited ‘well done’.

If the topic is ongoing, I can suggest a couple of additional sources, firstly Hervey Bay’s Vic Hislop (the Darth Vader side of the debate, but still is a significant point of view - certainly on the serious under-reporting on shark deaths as reported in the Australian Shark File) and secondly, Alan Bodycott of the Clarence River Fishermans Coop (who is a premier bull shark authority and does occasional contract work for the CSIRO and I think some for the DPI).

I enjoyed the whole mag, appreciating just how much work you put into it to make it fly commercially. Bonus for me was being able to read up on Mike Davis via an ad he had in the mag - same old Mike and his former mantra “the best surfboards in the world” - very Californian prose.

In closing, any chance of a pdf of the actual article? It would be accredited to you in our internal communication in our organisation, an organisation that is currently grappling with proactive shark strategies knowing/ fearing the authorities will talk-fest for as long as it takes, all the while allowing risk managers at local and state gov levels as well as at insurance companies to possibly kneejerk into expensive/unworkable solutions.

Thanks Dave and again, brilliant overview of the ‘Shark Debate’.

Jim Bradley Hon Nat. Advisor DSAA We first raised the topic of sharks way back in issue 7, 2011. Back then we said we wouldn’t revisit it, but with requests from the surfing community, we agreed more needed to be done to limit the increasing number of interactions between surfers and sharks. With another surfer bitten at Ballina as we go to print with this edition, bringing the total number of unprovoked attacks this year in NSW alone to 14, up from 3 in 2014, we figure it won’t be the last time we discuss the men in grey suits.

Craig Popplewell Craig, we don’t know the best answer we’d love to see more energy dedicated towards developing deterrents rather than comments from the peanut gallery saying how many people are killed by cows each year. Give some of the deterrent products a go - the striped wetsuit, the electrical zappers - but realistically, the only way to avoid it 100% is not to surf? Possibly a bad idea.

SHARKS WELL DONE “Morning Dave. Just read your thoughtful and well researched article on Sharks (Smorgasboarder Spring 2015 pp38-48).

As one who has done ongoing research on sharks since 1976, increasingly so in the past 28

VENETIAN SWAN “Hi guys, Shaun (Levings, World Surfaris) and I thought we had spotted Dave at Venice Beach last month on our way to Central America. We had a ripper trip too.”

Troy Smith And as I said to Troy at the time, “Get stuffed. I am way more buff than that guy.”

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24 Christine Ave, Miami Gold Coast QLD 4220 Austalia

phone: (07) 55 765 914

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CONSIDER YOU HAVE DUSTED OFF AN OLD BOARD UNDER THE HOUSE AND WONDER WHAT IT IS WORTH; OR PERHAPS HAVE PICKED UP A DISCARDED DUNGER FROM A CURB SIDE COLLECTION BUT DON’T KNOW WHETHER IT WARRANTS RESTORING; OR YOU SIMPLY WANT TO KNOW A LITTLE BIT MORE ABOUT A CERTAIN ASPECT OF SURF HISTORY, WELL IN THIS REGULAR FEATURE WE HOPE TO PROVIDE YOU WITH THE ANSWERS. So how did we come to know so much about surfboards and all things surf related? Well truth be told we know bugger all, so we cheated and called on a man known to many as “Mr Surf Wiki”, Andre ‘Ondi’ Marsaus.

“he’s been collecting surfboards and surf memorabilia since the tender age of 5”

But who is he you may say and why on earth is everyone involved with this magazine bald? Well to answer the nude-nut question, we believe it has something to do with the size of one’s cerebrum. With so much brain to fit into our cranial cavity, no space is left for useless hair follicles. More importantly however, who ‘Ondi’ is, is someone we have come to know who has an incredible depth of knowledge for all things surf.

We believe the reason he has a fair handle on the history of surfboards and those who rode them is partly due to the fact he appears to own nearly every board of significance.

Yes, Ondi is a serious surf collector. Indeed he’s been collecting surfboards and surf memorabilia since the tender age of 5. His collection now spans storage facilities in Sydney, Melbourne, the Gold Coast and Sunshine Coast along with his Noosa home and business, Underground Surf Emporium and Café. His collection of vintage surfboards includes some estimated to be worth around the $20,000 mark.

Besides his collection, Ondi is a pretty interesting character too.

He’s only recently entered his ‘40s, but so far he’s been regarded as one of Australia’s top chefs, cooked for the queen, was a champion superbike rider and even ran his own race team. This was all before he turned his focus to his enduring passion for surfing, opening a tiny shop with his partner Maree in Kirra in 2009 (in the old Aragorn factory, the original Kirra Surf location).

This soon grew into Underground Surf, a retro to pro surfboard and surf memorabilia store in Coolangatta (which he filled with his own collection along with a number of new finds). The shop then moved to Noosa, the place of his childhood holidays and where he made his name as a top class chef. Pretty soon however they ran out of room and in July this year Underground moved their digs from Noosa Hill to what is now one fine and true “surf emporium” right on the Hastings Street strip near to the famed First Point.

But enough of that, you get the gist, Ondi knows his stuff and if in doubt he will give you his answer to the best of his knowledge. Have a question you want to ask of the Surf Sage? Email editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au and we will get to it… well, we’ll get Ondi onto it.

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Extra noserocker for QLD

SURFBOARDS OF SIGNIFICANCE

by Ondi Marsaus, Underground Surf Emporium & Cafe

1977 BLOCK

LETTER MP SINGLE FIN 1977 was the year Michael Peterson reappeared from a brief semi-retirement to record a stunning victory at the Stubbies Pro against finals opponent Mark Richards in perfect Burleigh Heads barrels in the first ever man-on-man pro event.

This 1977 Block Letter MP single fin was made around this Stubbies period and was in fact one of the last boards he shaped in the Currumbin factory next to Burford Blanks.

A classic down rail speed machine measuring 6’2 x 2 7/8” x 20” with a single flyer swallow tail, Michael had added a little more nose rocker to this particular Block Letter model for the bigger Queensland summer swells.

Flamboyant ‘70’s airbrishing

Single flyer swallow tail

See this board in the flesh... well, foam & FIBREGLASS, at UNDERGROUND SURF Upstairs 9 Hastings St, Noosa T: 07 5455 4444 www.undergroundsurf.com.au

Glassed by Peter Evans and pinstriped and painted by Bill York, it’s a rare colourful design for an MP board. Michael had taken on the Joe Larkin philosophy of ‘we don’t sell lollipops we sell surfboards’ and usually stuck to a single colour with pinline and clear deck look. You can tell the flamboyance of the late ‘70s was starting to come out and the psychedelic era was starting to hit where the airbrushes were turning on boards, panel vans and anything else surfers could get their hands on.

This board was originally sold in the Michael Peterson Surfboards shop in Musgrave Street, Kirra (incidentally Musgrave Street was named after my ancestors, ship captains and sea going folk) to a surfer who rode it until the fin got knocked out at Burleigh in the early 80s. He never rode it again. He said “it rode many a barrel over the years and if we wanted to look for the fin it was blue and could be found at the bottom of the ocean somewhere.”

Purchased in 2010, it now sits proudly on display in the Underground Surf Emporium & Cafe in Hastings St Noosa.

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LATEST: FASHION

SUMMER SWIMMERS The Xmas holidays are right around the corner, and what better stocking stuffer for the lovely lady in your life than a sexy set of swimwear? Hive and Dkoko have you covered with amazing designs for summer.

Cheeky, inspired swimwear by Dkoko dkoko.com

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We say it again - fun, fashionable, functional and far more. Hive Swimwear for all the surf girls out there. hiveswimwear.com

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S ' T A WH

T O HOR XMAS! F

EL NINO Go soft on your SUP. El Nino have released their new 10’4” softboard SUP just in time for the Christmas holidays!

KAIKOURA SURF Very unique sunglasses have arrived in store. You fold the frames at the nose bridge and flick them on your wrist or wherever. Great for travel or bottoms of bags! UV400.

100%protection. Just $39.99each. facebook.com/KaikouraSurfNz/

For $999.95, you get the board, an adjustable paddle and fins - An ideal soft surfboard for a fun and safe introduction to surfing www.elninosurf.com.au

SURF LOCK

BARZ OPTICS

Tavarua floating model – floats in fresh or salt water. Available with grey or amber polarised lenses, leash and neoprene case. facebook.com/Barz-Optics 34

There’s plenty of car key locks on the market but from our personal experience only one to consider, SURF LOCK. Solid, secure and unlike others fits a range of different key sizes and lasts and lasts.

At $65 there may be cheaper locks around but none will outlast the SURF LOCK. facebook.com/ watershack.com.au

BEACH BEAT P A C E R x Z F L E X in store at Beach Beat, Caloundra and Alexandra Headland. facebook.com/Beach-Beat

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RIP CURL ULLADULLA The Tribal Myth Collection featuring a range of different tops, bottoms and coverups in store now. facebook.com/ripcurlulladulla

SURFINZ Buying a board for your kids this Christmas? Most performance shortboards come with a 5-fin setup these days, then you have to buy the fins. Costly exercise.

Well there is no better priced fin solution to get your groms into a thruster, quad or 5 fin set up, all in 1 nifty little pack for only $79.99. And these aren’t some cheap flexi nylon ones, they are stiff carbon composite performance fins. facebook.com/watershack.com.au

CRONULLA AND BONDI STANDUP PADDLEBOARD SHOP Experienced and expert coaches are in store to guide you the whole way on what board and paddle would suit you best making sure you make the right purchase. We have great SUP packages for Christmas including this one from Liquid Shredder.

SURFWARE AUSTRALIA

We’ve got the perfect all-rounder for groms right through to bigger guys this summer right here in store. Mt Woodgee’s Trademark model. Flat deck, single double concave, 5fin set up. Good paddler, fast and loose, 2.1/8” tail rocker and 5” nose rocker. Medium rails.

Single flyer swallow. facebook.com/ surfwareaustralia

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NATURAL NECESSITY Make your home smell amazing with the new Urban Rituelle range available in store now the heady scent of frangipani, a sweet splash of juicy berries and just a kiss of wild jasmine. facebook.com/naturalnecessity

RARE SURF TEES Four famous vintage brands spanning four decades all new to the Rare Surf Tees range. The perfect Xmas gift! facebook.com/Rare-Surf-TeesVintage-Surf-Apparel XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GREAITLY FAME S C A P E S SURF

LEAVING FOR THE NEST

A chance to escape from it all… boards on the roof, ready to explore an uncrowded break far, far away – it’s what many of us crave come this time of year when work and family festive commitments go into crazy mode. It’s nice to know however that you can still get away from it all without having to traverse half the globe. HAWK’S NEST is just 2 ½ hours drive north of Sydney but seemingly an entire world away.

THE WAVES

FISHING

WHAT ELSE?

Surf wise it can be fickle but my goodness when conditions are right…. There’s a long stretch of beach here with varied peaks and one unbelievable left a little further on. It’s a mix of beachies and powerful reefs but you need a 4WD to fully explore it. Best mid tide with a SE swell and NE wind but it is quite open to a range of swell directions. Further north there’s Treachery Head, which has a reputation for solid swells with good reason.

You are spoiled for choice with the beach, Port Stephens and the Myall River all on your doorstep and plenty of spots to fish from including boat ramps and jetties.

Take in the laidback nature of the place, stroll the shops, cafes and art galleries of Hawks Nest and the adjoining town of Tea Gardens. You will no doubt spot the odd koala or two along the way. A must is the trail that follows along Jimmys Beach to Yacaaba Head. The walk to the top is a two-hour round trip but rewards you with an amazing view over Hawks Nest, Tea Gardens and Port Stephens.

There’s also endless wilderness walking trails to the north of town in the Myall Lakes National Park.

Catch includes the likes of mullet, tailor, salmon and sometimes even bream or blackfish.

Have you

packed yet?

We have!

Visitors to Hawks Nest have the choice of two fantastic North Coast Holiday Parks, Hawks Nest Beach and Jimmys Beach, less than a kilometre apart. Both offer facilities for camping, caravans/ motorhomes and cabins. Hawks Nest is located right beside Bennetts Beach, the main surfing beach, while Jimmys Beach has the added attraction of “glamping” (it’s a new word I have picked up) – luxury beach tents with a verandah and all the mod-cons. northcoastholidayparks.com.au

Photos: North Coast Holiday Parks, Tom Woods

Hawks Nest Golf Club is only a two-minute meander from North Coast Holiday Parks Hawks Nest. Other than that you can hire a kayak or tinnie and explore the extensive waterways in the region.

NORTH COAST HOLIDAY PARKS HAWKS NEST BEACH & JIMMYS BEACH

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WIS ON

Four intrepid NZ surf explorers make their way to the southern surf paradise that is Phillip Island. Jim Culley reports on the adventure.

Words and photos: Jim Culley / Jimages.co.nz Thick rain drums against a rapidly fogging windscreen. I reach to my left and begin blindly hammering and flicking knobs in the hope of flooding our vehicle with conditioned air and clarifying my hazed perception. Along the border of our path a line of shrubs shudder against a ferocious gale, their frenzied dance mirrored by an animated conversation across the row of seats behind me.

And here we are, two surfers, a photographer and a filmmaker, stuffed between board bags and photography equipment in a metal can. Enthusiastically we pick apart the favourable swell forecast, contemplating the likelihood we will soon be indulging our appetite for flawless waves in a foreign land.

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“Wait a minute?”

I mumble under my breath, assuming the rain would mask my uncertainty.

“What’s up bro?” Apparently Andy (our filmmaker and self-confessed hipster degenerate) had caught my musing and was now facing me, his thick eyebrows arching above a pair of imitation Ray bans.

“Well cuz, it appears we have taken a wrong turn.” (By we I really meant I, but I wasn’t quite ready to concede that).

Having driven our intended route many times in the preceding years, it had suddenly dawned on me that in an admirable attempt to multi-task, I had veered off-course about an hour ago and we were now heading straight for New South Wales.

“Hey look, a café. Anyone keen on a coffee?”

With the crews’ attention swiftly redirected, I buy myself enough time to consult with Google maps and place our rental back on the correct heading. A further ten minutes and we were weaving through forgotten countryside towards our salty friend. Caffeinated confidence. Four Kiwis, each from a different corner of Aotearoa, with Australia’s wave drenched southern coastline at our fingertips… Well almost.

Gradually my eyelids peel open. The blank canvas surrounding me dissipates as gently swaying blinds filter remnants of light from a distant street lamp into my room. I shift my head towards the fluorescence and notice the window is slightly ajar. An icy breeze funnels through the slender gap, causing a collection of coat hangers above me to rattle. We tremble in unison. Squinting now, I am able to read the narrow hands of a wall-mounted clock; the rooms only accessory. Any tropical climate would warrant movement at this hour, but it’s bloody freezing, so instead I tuck my legs into my chest and attempt to return to sleep. Suddenly I become aware of a familiar sound echoing in the distance, coming in bursts, perhaps five or six seconds apart. Instinct immediately has me upright. I clasp the corners of my sleeping bag in both hands and hop with earnest down the thin corridor towards the lounge.

“JC, Harrison, you lads awake?” They would be now as I had used my outside voice.

“Ahhh yeah bro, what time is it?” JC croaks from beneath his blanket.

“5.30, time for breaky and barrels,” I reply in the most enthusiastic tone I can muster.

“Hell yeah!” exclaims a suddenly wide-awake Harrison. Now all I have to do is summon our resident hipster…

An hour later and sunlight reveals our options for the day. From the comfort of our balcony we witness turquoise swells flowing towards a shallow reef before refracting into a single source of energy and finally detonating as thick short barrels. Today’s first decision is going to be an easy one.

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“we witness turquoise swells flowing towards a shallow reef before refracting into a single source of energy and finally detonating as thick short barrels.”

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“The boys are still in their wetsuits, perhaps eager to get back in the water despite the bleak conditions.”

“That’s our spot, boys!” My enthusiasm sees a mouthful of muesli sprinkle across the lawn ten feet below. Harrison looks up from his computer screen back in the lounge, “High tide’s in an hour,” he yells through the open door.

“Sweet bro, that gives us roughly four hours before the ledge becomes too shallow to surf.”

I’m cramming in spoonfuls of chewy oats like there’s no tomorrow. Enough of this sideline act, time to indulge.

With youthful exuberance Harrison slips into his wetsuit, flashes me a wry grin, and darts down the winding wooden ramp towards the sea. JC is content to wait while I load my camera into its water-housing and Andy complacently puts away his third cigarette of the morning.

“She’s an interesting wave JC.” I’ve shot here once before and feel the need to share my viewpoint. He turns to face me with a cheeky grin. I interpret his response as an invitation to elaborate, but something causes me to stop in my tracks. I’m now aware of Andy’s decision to dress in knee high socks and velcro sandals for our trek across the spongy sand and slippery boulders. Momentarily transfixed by this odd selection of footwear, I leave my companion in the conversational lurch. Still shaking my head I turn back to resume speaking only to notice JC has also become fixated on those sandals. A fashion faux pas straight from the nineties, along with their multi-coloured heel buckles (a safety accessory that Andy has taken full advantage of). JC and I laugh in unison. Andy simply shrugs, hoists a weighty pack onto his back and together we make our way towards the beckoning waves.

Our first session is cut short as rolling storm clouds bring an onshore change that transforms the line-up to a giant swirl of capping windswells. Walking back to the warmth of our vehicle we pass a flock of juvenile seabirds huddled in a small circle, their feet poked into the shifting sand like stilts, their heads resembling dark dollops of fluffy mousse just waiting to be licked off by the wind. With eyes pressed shut they appear content in their harsh surroundings. I get changed as quick as I can. Pulling the final layer of wool over my head I leap into the driver’s seat, where a wave of optimism floods over me.

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“Not a bad start aye boys?” Silence...I try a different approach.

“How’s the water compare to Dunedin guys?” I watch as Harrison rubs his palms together in front of the SUV’s heater before lifting his head to respond.

“Yeah, it’s warm bro! That wave’s pretty sick.”

Glancing in the rear vision mirror I notice that cheeky grin flash across JC’s face again as he continues tapping his iPhone. The boys are still in their wetsuits, perhaps eager to get back in the water despite the bleak conditions. I decide to test my theory.

“There’s a bay down the road that may have a semi-sheltered wave…”.

The car hums to life and we start moving again.

Over the course of the short drive I found myself still thinking about those damn birds. I wondered how long they had been living here and if they would migrate soon? Then I thought about us. As wandering artists we spend the days in search of a canvas on which to paint, experiences to share, moments to capture. We cling to those moments of sunshine and reluctantly weather the storms in-between. Just as I was beginning to confuse the hell out of myself, I recall the value of living for the present. Returning my full attention to the road, I notice the car swaying slightly.

“Hopefully that offshore hits this evening and cleans up the swell for the dawnie.”

An optimistic musing given the forecast nevertheless. A chorus of grunts signal my message has reached its intended recipients, all three still fixated on their phones.

We spend the afternoon chasing ramps across a short stretch of beach until our legs grow weak and our stomachs crave sustenance. Unplugging my headphones I see I have missed a call from our host. Two weeks earlier I contacted Sandy Ryan to let him know we would be in the neighbourhood.

His response was to offer us full use of his house for the week while it was waiting to be replaced by a new structure. The gesture in itself is a testament to the generous nature of the man, given we had never formally met. I immediately call my voicemail. “Yeh Jem, eets Sandy maaate.

Oh I hope you lads got out there before the wend

K

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LATEST: TRAVEL

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LATEST: TRAVEL swetched! Look you guys have to come round for denna. Geve us a bell mate.” I listen to the message twice to ensure I have interpreted correctly through the thick Aussie accent then convey the good news to the boys.

Over dinner Sandy informs us he has just returned from Western Australia where he has been towsurfing fifteen foot death pits at ‘The Right’. He speaks rather nonchalantly when describing the location (as if it is just another reef break offering up a hearty barrel) then goes into specific detail regarding one particular wave he had whipped into only to see a twelvefoot left coming back towards him. The lads listen attentively while devouring spaghetti bolognese

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with ‘Kelly Slater in Black and White’ playing on the plasma in the background. Suddenly Sandy looks up from his meal like a possum caught in headlights.

“Hey do you lads wanna see some of the pecs from West Aus?” For the next ten minutes we sit in silence, our brains processing the images on display. I spend the rest of the evening thinking how well Sandy understated his earlier retelling of events.

The new day is perfect blue. In the distance the sky meets sea like similar shades merging on an artists palette. The mood in the kitchen is jovial and upbeat as we shovel down mouthfuls of scrambled egg and

“The gesture in itself is a testament to the generous nature of the man.”

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BUILD YOUR OWN WOODEN SURFBOARD Alaias & Paipos Due to popular demand we now offer 1 Day Surfboard, Alaia & Paipo Shaping Workshops There’s nothing like the ride, feel and experience of an authentic wooden surfboard . . . and when you’ve built that board yourself, with skills that will stay with you for life, nothing beats the feeling.

Tree to Sea Australia offers 3 day workshops enabling you to build your own wooden board and give you the skills to build many more. Our wooden boards are environmentally friendly, and the feeling of riding one . . . incredible! See website for workshop dates and further details. Gift Vouchers are available.

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Wooden Surfboard Workshops

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The goodness of wood. Plantation grown timber. No fibreglass. No foam. No resins.

Just wood (and glue). Keeping our environmental splash to a ripple.

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“The new day is perfect blue.

In the distance the sky meets sea like similar shades merging on an artists palette.”

wholegrain toast, while considering the picture we might paint today. I close my eyes and gently press my head against a glass window. I hear Sandy’s voice repeating the words he left us with last night, ‘head east towards the open beaches lads. The wend and swell should be perfect’. We arrive to find the car park already full and decide this is enough of a sign to avoid multiple trips by lugging our gear across the dunes on the first run. Trudging upward through 48

the sand, my feet sink with each step and my calves begin to burn, until we finally reach the summit of a sun-drenched dune. Hoots all-round as the boys watch four to six foot barrels slam sporadically against shallow sand. They waste no time suiting up.

Watching as sessions unfold through a lens it quickly becomes apparent who is having an on day and who is having an off day. Your typical

on day can be compared to riding an escalator in a continuous and fluid circle, while an off day is more like wading through a crowd of people to reach a lift that takes forever to arrive, then breaks down with you inside. Over the course of the next three hours I watch as the locals dominate the shifting peaks. With wash through sets and more rips than a nineties grunge rockers jeans, scratching into a good peak depends entirely on positioning. The locals have the place dialled and seem to be plugged into some external force that leads them to ‘the spot’ time and time again.

By lunchtime the sun is at full blaze. Andy and I have been tucked into the corner of a steep dune, shirts over our heads and sweating bullets for a few hours now, so I decide to

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Keep your goods dry wherever you are

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LATEST: TRAVEL have a dig at swimming the joint for a water angle. I watch as another clan of locals dart down the beach to enter the line-up by way of one of the more consistent rips and, having done this many times before, decide to follow suit. Forty-five minutes later and I’m squatting next to Andy back on the dune, refreshed but slightly pissed off. As the tide changed so too did my rip; rapidly transforming into a swirling current of confused water determined to confine me to the limbo between beach and barrels. After forty-five minutes swimming across the beach I meet with Harrison who was making his way in for some lunch. He offers me a tow. Apparently I was having an off day.

We spend the next few days locked in routine. After dinner each night we scan the updated weather forecast and tide charts before deciding where to surf in the morning. If the winds are light and offshore we head east, if not we have another dig at our opponent out front. Rising before daybreak we cram as much

caffeine and whole-foods into our bodies as possible, then surf until our stomachs groan and muscles reach fatigue. Apart from putting us in the best possible waves with enough energy to burn, our schedule provides us with something constant to fall back on when things don’t quite go to plan.

On one of these mornings Sandy escapes from work and joins us on a now routine pilgrimage to the slab.

He takes the lead as we navigate glistening boulders under the moonlight, slowing only to ensure we are keeping pace. Reaching the shoreline I gingerly wade through oily black liquid until it reaches my waist. After filling my lungs with air, I reluctantly submerge.

Pushing under the first breaker I feel like a huge rubber starfish.

With zero visibility underwater I can only sense the jagged rocks ominously close at hand. Above the surface my eyes filter more and more light with every stroke until I am able to make out three figures reaching the take-off spot; two quit paddling while one continues on, deeper into the line-up. I

assume this is Sandy taking priority and chuckle to myself. Fair enough, the guy practically owns the joint. He doesn’t stop there.

After a further ten strokes he finally takes to sitting on his board in-line with a dangerous looking kelp-covered boulder; an object that had recently hosted Harrison before a set wave forcibly ejected him into a foot of water. Opting to shoot with a fisheye lens this morning I reposition myself close enough to the rock to touch it, the arms of swaying kelp brushing against my back and swim-fins.

Given that Sandy has spent years honing his tube-riding skills on this wave, eventually making a name for himself as one of the world’s premiere slab-hunters, my expectations are justifiably high.

Looking towards the horizon I spot the first set of the day approaching.

Meanwhile as if on cue, a curtain of light envelops the line-up with a golden aura. Sandy swings, takes two smooth strokes and glides into a perfect barrel. JC and Harrison reposition themselves, deeper now, but not quite as deep

as Sandy had been sitting. The remainder of the morning is spent waiting for another wave to hit the same section of the reef. It never comes.

As our excursion draws to an end we have time for one last session.

The boys have become familiar with the slabs subtle nuances and have been positioning themselves pretty close to a section of the ledge we have come to refer to as ‘Sandy’s’. However this time is different. It’s almost dead low tide and each wave breaks precariously close to the unforgiving ocean floor. Given the tide the line-up is swarming with a pack of seasoned body boarders, each taking turns free-falling over the ledge and sliding through thick tubes. Sandy waits his turn until he reaches the front of the queue, settles himself, and for the next half hour becomes a statue in the sea. As the sun tilts westward he continually ignores each passing swell, clearly content to ride the wave of the day or nothing at all.

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hacks on a more forgiving second section. Eventually Sandy begins fidgeting with a GoPro he paddled out with. Then, without warning, his attention suddenly shifts from the recording device. The body boarders are deep in conversation and oblivious the rogue swell now only metres away. Sandy appears to be sitting way too deep and from where I’m positioned doesn’t stand a chance of making the wave. He doesn’t appear to agree. Paddling hard he stands on a section of water barely three-feet tall, while five metres down the line the same swell is five feet and already jacking up. Biting down hard on the strategically placed GoPro he begins madly pumping on the front section of his board. Still behind the peak he calls upon years of experience and gently immerses a single row of fingertips into liquid. The wave becomes a beautiful oval eye. The sheer volume of turquoise water throwing over Sandy’s head is immense, yet he remains poised and focused. I watch on through my viewfinder as the edges of his mouth curve upwards; only a hint of a smile as he continues to clasp the camera between his teeth. Seconds later the surfer is spat from the barrel directly in front of the kiwis.

“Bloody hell Sandy, that thing was nuts!”

JC quickly states the obvious. Sandy plucks the GoPro from between his jaws…

“Yeh maate, eet was alreght.”

The boys would like to thank our gracious host Sandy Ryan of Island Surfboards as well as O’Neill NZ for making the trip possible.

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THE

CRIBB Many know of Rob Cribb, or indeed know him well. Rob made a name for himself as a top-notch surfer through the ‘80s and ‘90s before cutting his teeth launching a then tiny little brand you may have heard of before called FCS.

I am keen to know a little more about where you grew up and learnt to surf.

I believe you hail from Northern NSW but don’t know where exactly.

I recently had the great pleasure of catching up with Rob to talk about surfing, family, his history in the industry and his latest business interests.

In terms of the professional ranks, I am aware you were right up with Australia’s best in the 80s and 90s. How high on the world tour rankings did you get?

WORDS: Dave Swan PHOTOS: Supplied courtesy of Rob Cribb

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I grew up in Evans Head, was schooled in Ballina and spent my entire youth surfing between Lennox (Head) and Angourie… Not bad choices.

I had decent results as an amateur and had a go at some pro-events but competing was never really my thing. I’d either get the highest score of the heat or the lowest. I never really grew up hassling for waves, which sort of came across in my attitude in heats, as a result I’d get wiped by the Gold Coast and Sydney frothers used to hassling for every wave. I didn’t have the mongrel in me that was required to constantly

win heats. Back then it was 4 to the beach, quantity over quality and it created too much ugliness in my surfing style. It wasn’t until I spent many years in Hawaii (from drawing out bigger turns on bigger boards) that I felt comfortable with my own style.

I have read of your ‘go-for-broke’ attitude to surfing. What feats do you believe saw you acquire this label?

That’s why I always got the highest or lowest score (laughs). My dad and uncle were the keen surfers in my family but who knows where your traits come from. At an early age I just wanted to have a go whether it was Evans (Head) bar, Lennox or Angourie, regardless of the size.

As a teenager I did a trip to G-Land with Barton Lynch and Jay Adams (RIP mate). We scored epic waves for a couple weeks and pretty much had the line up to ourselves…. then BL and I met up a couple weeks later with Shane Bevan and

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“LIVING ON OAHU FOR HALF OF MY LIFE, THERE WAS PLENTY OF SESSIONS THAT GOT THE HEART BEATING ACROSS THE ISLAND CHAIN.”

Jay Phillips. The 4 of us scored solid perfection at Padang Padang by ourselves. I came back from that trip with one thing in mind that was far from contests. Hawaii was all I wanted to know about from that day on and all I wanted to do was push as hard as I could in solid waves like Haleiwa, Sunset and Off The Wall.

What’s the biggest/ scariest wave you have ever ridden?

My first house I ever purchased was right in front of Ali’i beach so I used to surf Haleiwa a lot. I definitely miss that wave. I don’t know many people that wouldn’t claim big Haleiwa as one of the North Shore’s heaviest waves, especially when it’s over 8ft. It just constantly folds in on itself creating some major hold-downs. Over 12ft it’s another level… Adrenaline overload with excitement and fear at the same time.

Living on Oahu for half of my life, there was plenty of sessions that got the heart beating

across the island chain. Shaun Briley was responsible for many scary sessions I had on the outer-reefs but a few early morning lonely sessions at Haleiwa with wash-through sets from Avalanche probably top the list for the scariest.

The biggest swell here in Australia?

I saw you tackled some crackers at Currumbin in 2012.

Nothing like what you see the crew nowadays charging at Shippies and The Right etc. Just some big tow days at the Alley is probably it. Pre Hawaii I had some solid stuff in WA and some NSW spots I shouldn’t mention my parents had a long lining business. I worked with my dad on the boat for a couple years and we ended up docking for weeks in some very convenient ports along the NSW coastline.

What was behind your climb up the corporate ladder in the surf industry?

FCS, Gorilla Grip, Jet Pilot, Excel.

You have certainly achieved a lot.

Thanks, yeah I feel like I’ve achieved a lot. It came with a lifetime in the industry, working hard, living what I preach and being honest with people.

Once I made the move to Hawaii, I knew the only contests I would do would be the Triple Crown, this was 10 years before the opportunity was there for guys to even consider making a living from surfing big waves was possible…. but I had a beautiful woman with a beautiful family and the North Shore as my backyard.

Being anywhere else wasn’t an option so I decided to start a Hawaiian sales agency with some Australian brands, one brand being Gorilla Grip. Shortly after, Bill McCausland (founder of Gorilla Grip) called me about this new detachable system they acquired called Fin Control Systems. Upon flying to Australia I XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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instantly saw the future of surfboards and flew back with a board bag full of metal install jigs, bags of milled fibreglass (little white powder in ziplock bags caused several hassles with Hawaiian customs), one very ordinary fin template and a bunch of little black plugs.

Living on the North Shore I was obviously surrounded by some of the best shapers and surfers in the world, shapers such as Jeff Bushman, Pat Rawson, Nelson Sadoy, Dick Brewer, Glen Minami and Ben Aipa. All were very open for experimentation from an early stage, likewise for surfers such as the late Mark Foo, Sunny, Kaipo Jaquias, Pancho Sullivan and Tom Carroll.

It was a classic as in the first 2 years there were no manufacturers with install kits, so all the shapers would bring their boards around and pay me to install the plugs, likewise for pros. They’d bring favourite boards to me and I’d grind off the glass-ons and install FCS. It was all done in my backyard at Sunset and that is where FCS started in America.

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I’ll never forget the day when Sunny just returned back to Oahu from winning his first Bells (Beach) event. This ‘Haole’ Australian took a grinder to the fins of his Blue Hawaii winning board with Sunny and his shaper, Glen Minami, watching my every move…no slipping with the grinder that day and that was the start of Sunny with FCS. By the end of that year we had over 30 of the top 44 switching to a removable fin system.

th

opened the first international FCS office. Several seasons later we opened in the US mainland.

At the time, Hawaii was the epicentre of global surfing, especially for surfing hardware brands and if a product couldn’t be accepted in Hawaii, it wasn’t going to succeed anywhere. Myself and Bill were very aware of that. I saw a great opportunity and so I put my heart and soul into changing an industry, from only glassed-on fins to what we now see today 25 years later.

For the next decade I maintained 95% market share throughout the Hawaiian Islands and was dedicated to the innovation of surfing hardware and fin design. They were definitely exciting days being at the forefront of the historical development in fin design such as Kelly’s K2.1, specialised Jaws Tow Fins for Kalama, the R&D of the original award winning H2 fins, along with the original signature fins with Pat Rawson, Rusty, TC and so on... Eventually new ownership came into play and the time was right to move on. My wife and I had our first child and made the decision to start the next chapter of our life in Australia.

Throughout the early to mid 90s, the shapers of the world would come to the North Shore and start noticing the changes I was making with these little black plugs. Bill believed in me and we

Upon relocating to Oz I helped Mike Stewart re-designed his Science bodyboard brand and managed the national marketing for Jet Pilot, primarily to help build Jet Pilot into the Australian surf market. A year later Derek O’Neill (former CEO - Billabong International) was well aware with what

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LATEST: LOCAL Cannon on a foamie. Photo: Ricky Luv

he CRIBB I did for FCS and along with Ed Dascoli (founder of Xcel ), knew I was the right guy for Billabong’s newly acquired Hawaiian wetsuit brand ‘Xcel ’. Due to Xcel’s watersports and outdoor diversity it was really a brand I could relate to on a personal level. I ran this company nationally for several years.

How did you come to meet Leiona? Living and working on the North Shore no doubt?

We actually met a couple years before I moved there permanently, a night out on the North Shore led to everything my life would become… That was almost 25yrs ago !

What was it like living on the North Shore?

You kidding me? It was a sensational period in my life I could only dream of and will forever be grateful for. A grom from Evans Head all of a sudden married to a born and raised North Shore girl. For over

THIS PAGE: Cannon makes the most of boards in every environment.

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LATEST: LOCAL RIGHT: Dad as gondolier for daughter, Kiana.

BELOW: Kiana as a mermaid and surfer

“AS PARENTS, YOU SELFISHLY LOVE TO SEE YOUR KIDS LIVING YOUR OWN LIFESTYLE SO GETTING THEM COMFORTABLE IN THE WATER WAS A NO-BRAINER AND IS SOMETHING THEY BOTH LOVE TO DO.”

a decade I was regularly surfing and working with the entire professional tour and the biggest shapers in the world.

Leiona has obviously got a passion for the ocean too?

Leiona was born in a house on the beach at Rocky Point in the ‘70s. Her older brother Rush Randle was one of the highest rated windsurfers and part of the ‘strapped’ Maui crew who launched foil-boarding, tow-surfing and kiting to the world. Still to this day Leiona is a passionate surfer, these days loving long boarding the Gold Coast points and SUPing our beautiful waterways.

Both your love for the water has no doubt rubbed off on the kids?

want to ride - what will give them the most fun on each day.

As parents, you selfishly love to see your kids living your own lifestyle so getting them comfortable in the water was a no-brainer and is something they both love to do. However Leiona and I are also both believers of allowing them the opportunity to live their own lives as opposed to being parents that try to live their own lives through their children. We push education first and are very proud of their academic achievements. Outside of school we try to keep them outdoors as much as possible.

Regularly our days are going where they want to go, whether it be skateparks or to the beach with a longboard, shortboard, surf mat, foamy, SUP or bodyboard. We let them ride what they

Cannon is now 11 and has the natural ability to ride them all well. Kiana is now 8 and always chooses the surf mat and the foamy… She’s our little shaka-throwing cruiser and we love it.

What was the idea behind forming WaterShack? (The company Rob and Leiona currently run) I’ve always been open to a variety of watersports such as Surfing, SUP, kiting, general paddlesports etc. Living in Hawaii, your life evolves around swell and wind. For a decade I probably kite surfed as much as I surfed (in the XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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BELOW: Mini-Cribbs, Kiama and Cannon are waterbabies, through and through.

early days using tow boards and 2 line kites with zero safety equipment so a lot of time was spent in trees and fixing bladders).

I knew of many global watersport brands that didn’t have distribution in Australia. I envisioned a company that stayed diverse across the variety of watersports I was always passionate about, which is why I wanted to use the word ‘Water’ somewhere.

I was surfing with a mate who got a little barrel and he said, “I got shacked”.

We reside in what we call our ‘shack’ on Currumbin Creek so WaterShack was formed. That was 5yrs ago and both Leiona and I have since then built a consistent importing / wholesaling business that includes the Aquaglide brand of Inflatable Waterparks along with many successful watersports/ general marine and outdoor accessories which consists of Ecoxgear Waterproof Speakers, Paqua Waterproof cases and Vestpac Hydration for paddlesports, Puka Patch instant ding repair & Rail Tape, general watersports / outdoor /marine accessories such as Beachwheels, Ouch Spray, Island Tribe Sunscreen, Surf Jimmy wetsuit bag, Surf Lock, MyGo and Finger Grip Boardracks. Then there’s Surfinz fins and adjustable fin system, along with Scarfini Fins and Cheyne Horan’s Starfin. We also just secured the Australian distribution of Surf Organic. We’re very excited to be representing this environmentally-focused Australian surf company that produce not just an epic wax that is 100% manufactured from a blend of renewable ingredients (main ingredient being soy wax), but they employ a no plastic policy by only using recycled packaging materials for their waxes, tail pads and candles. They are also a supporter of Surfrider Foundation and 1% of all profits go to the 1% For The Planet Foundation.

Rob and I continually cross paths along the Australian coastline as he distributes surf gear for Watershack and I deliver Smorgasboarder magazines. He’s a fascinating bloke with an incredible story, and he has one amazing surfing family as well. You can also further understand why I’m keen to stay good mates with him - so we can continue to keep testing the incredible surf gear he distributes!

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Áine Tyrrell Queen of Tides

Musician. Surfer. Mother. Dreamer As told to Cameron Fergus

The ocean is never far from my mind.

I was raised near the coast, on Ireland’s windy western shores. Sheer cliffs and a wild, cold sea. Surfing didn’t have much of a hold there when I was growing up.

That’s changed now though. A few big waves off the Irish coast have caught the surfing world’s attention and now you’ll see some boards on roofs from time to time - people who’ve picked up surfing from friends or have brought the stoke back from their wanderings in other parts of the world.

Surfing in Ireland is about as different from Australia as you can imagine. It’s not a relaxed, sit back on your board gazing at the horizon scenario. No dry-hairpaddle-outs. You’re not looking back at sand dunes running into the coastal scrub, or palm trees stretching into a cloudless blue sky. More often than not you’re staring at huge cliff faces and the tide slipping back to reveal jagged black rocks awaiting the fool who dares

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Photos supplied, courtesy of Àine Tyrrell

bring flesh and fiberglass within reach. Coming in from a session off the Irish coast isn’t so much about being surf-stoned and feeling at one with Mother Nature, it’s more about survival and a sense that you’ve put one over on her wildness. Maybe that’s why some of my most memorable surf sessions have been at home.

It’s a mission just to get to the break - through fields, down cobbled roads, along muddied farm access lanes, often in rain, sleet or even snow. Then you just hope the wind, which is ever-present, is offshore or close enough to it. But when it gets good - and it’s hardly ever consistently good – you feel truly blessed, to be one of the precious few in receipt of the North Atlantic’s greatest treat.

All that is half a world away of course. But it’s only geography, merely a few oceans beyond. I’ve been in Australia for four years now. My littlies and I are nomads. Wanderers. We live in a big old 1966 Bedford

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“THE OCEAN IS NEVER FAR FROM MY MIND.” Photo: Jesse Leaman

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Photo: Heidi Atkins

bus, packed with all the stuff - toys, schoolbooks, boards, bikes, instruments – that we need for this journey that we’re on. We travel, I play gigs, and we learn together – Australia is a wondrous open book full of lessons, opportunities and adventures to us.

Home, in the sense that we understand it, is the road, as well as some special places we’ve found on the way. They’re mostly so different to our Irish home, but then, in certain moments, in a certain light, no different at all, particularly in south-western Victoria where there’s literally Irish blood in the stones.

It wasn’t always this way. A conventional life – a mortgage, four walls, and the old nine-to-five - isn’t that far in my past. But it took an almighty upheaval to lay my life bare before me, cracked all things wide open, and from out of the chasm I could hear my true self shouting at me to do the things that I must. Write.

Play music. Perform. Those things I know and love best, that bring me the greatest joy, and allow me a way to mark out my space in the world, to connect with like-minded souls around me. And surf of course.

Ride the waves that bless the coasts of my adopted island home. The bus was the vessel that made all of this possible, it unshackled me from my past – and a direction that was not my destiny – and set my little hearts and I on our path.

It’s easy to see where the ocean has washed its way through my songs. Not just in the lyrical images of dark water, pirate queens, the swells and the salt, but also in rhythms that follow the ebb and flow of the tides. On the most blessed of days, a song will come to me as I surf, complete - words, melody, rhythm - as if it has been out there all along, drifting about in the bay, waiting for the right tide to come ashore. But other songs are more stubborn and stay out in the deep, refuse to be dredged up no matter how hard I pull. Maybe they are destined to rust away down there, or perhaps they’re just not for me.

Maybe it’s that first duck dive that inspires this creativity. The cold water activating the mammalian dive reflex, slowing the heart rate, forcing me to relax, so that when the wave has passed and I return to the surface I do so in that altered state. Or perhaps it’s the vastness of that open space. Sitting up on my board, legs dangling beneath, looking at the horizon and seeing endlessness. Or endless possibilities.

Surfing is for me almost a meditation, a way to reduce all things to their essence, down to only that which is most important – water, body, breath – a practice that is so much like the act of writing a new song.

At the heart of it, songwriting too offers endless

Ái Photo: Nikole Ramsay

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Áine

LATEST: LOCAL

“IT’S EASY TO SEE WHERE THE OCEAN HAS WASHED ITS WAY THROUGH MY SONGS.”

Tyrrel Photo: Pete Conway XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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possibilities, that same huge, unbounded canvas on which something new might be crafted. A surge of creativity, the discipline of giving the song space while also reigning it in, and the art emerges, but again only once the complexity is erased, leaving only the essential elements of story, song, and feeling.

Photo: Nikole Ramsay

The ocean is inextricably a part of my life. The waves are always on my mind and so often breaking outside the bus windows as we pass by.

The wild ocean - cold, fierce and menacing, but also calming, nurturing and inspiring. The benevolent and the cruel mother both, will forever be a constant my family’s life. A life that is driven by love, adventure and the road ahead, and a belief that we’ll always find friendly faces, a receptive audience, and if we’re lucky a gentle offshore breeze awaiting us when we arrive.

Photo: Michael Chambers

Photo: Wes Bowler

Photo: Heidi Atkins

Áine Tyrrell’s debut album Queen of Swords is out now on iTunes or at www.ainetyrrell.com

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RIGHT: Stoked cardboard builder Andrew and his new baby.

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I T N E G A E R G

CARD BOARD

Inspired by Mike Sheldrake’s cardboard surfboards, Victorian Smorgasboarder reader Andrew Hallett tries his hand at board building in a rather unique way.

WORDS & PHOTOS: ANDREW HALLETT

I guess I should not have been surprised that building a surfboard had a flow and a rhythm that felt much like riding a surfboard. But having now completed and ridden this watercraft, this similarity is the dominant reflection I am left with.

It actually all started one lazy afternoon. My eyes were dancing across a brand new copy of Smorgasboarder. I was probably conveying something cold and refreshing to my tastebuds between paragraphs. Turn another page …. gosh, that’s a gorgeous board, great geometric design, what is it?

What? A cardboard, made out of cardboard! I read the article, appreciated the pictures, and admired the attitude and creativeness of the designer, Michael Sheldrake. The website (www.sheldrake.net/ cardboards) was inspirational. Lots of pictures, loads of videos, and heaps of free downloads. Excellent.

I have never made a surfboard, but this would be where I would start.

So this part of the story was like the trip to the beach at which time your imagination has you riding the perfect wave and surfing like a 10 time world champion. I was going to build the most brilliant board of all time, and I would start now. I downloaded a few of the files, checked the sizes and styles and made a decision about which board to build. Longboard? Nope, got one of those. Fish? No, got one of those too. Shortboard. Don’t want one. Mini-Simmons? Ahhh, that’s the board. I’ve wanted one for ages.

Step one done.

That was easy.

“GOSH, THAT’S A GORGEOUS BOARD, GREAT GEOMETRIC DESIGN, WHAT IS IT? WHAT? A CARDBOARD, MADE OUT OF CARDBOARD!”

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From a few strips of cardboard, a surfboard is born....

Step two. Find some of the correct sort of cardboard at the right size. Checked all the local stores.

Checked online. A month later after about a dozen phone calls, I eventually found a supplier. All I had to do was drive 8 hours to pick it up!

Even at this early stage I was starting to see the connection between building and riding. You don’t tell the wave where you are going to surf. The wave offers some pathways, and if you are good enough and committed you can humbly accept one of the wave’s gifts. You don’t just purchase unique surfboards, you have to journey towards them.

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It was a similar story for the laser cutting of the cardboard and the purchasing of the materials needed to build the board. It took ages, but it had a flow to it. A phone call would lead to a web site that would lead to a conversation that would provide the product required. I was not building with foam and I was using epoxy, so a lot of the stock standard techniques and methods did not always apply.

It took about four months to get everything together. I could start the build. The laser cut cardboard fitted together superbly. Michael Sheldrake has done an absolutely magnificent job. Putting the cardboard core together was a really enjoyable task. It felt like pumping through a series of bottom turns. Each piece of cardboard added to the outline and shape of the final board.

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Then came the closeout wave. You make the takeoff, line up the bottom turn, only to see nothing to surf ahead, only a beating and a long hold down.

You see I live in southern Victoria, and I was wanting to laminate in July.

Our good days in July get to 12°C. The resin needed 16°C. So I waited for two months for the weather to improve. I held my breath for as long as I could. The good weather came with my holidays. The build was on.

Days passed with a delightful rhythm. Get up. Drink coffee. Cut fibreglass.

Laminate. Wait a day. Get up. Drink coffee. Sand, laminate, wait. And repeat. Cardboards require two lamination layers (4oz, 6oz, then 4oz glass on the bottom and 6oz, 4oz, then 6oz on the deck), and two hot coats, and at least one gloss coat. This was like a long open wave, bottom turn, hit the lip, bottom turn, lip… The board was basically done in two weeks, with a Phillip Island surfing safari in the middle.

Then the board just sits for a while to let the epoxy do its thing. To finish I have used clear grip tape on the deck so as not to lose that beautiful transparency that make these boards so unique.

The board surfs like the build. You need to find the right balance of power and grace. You react to what the board needs on the wave. It will turn long graceful arcs, but it is short enough so that you can snap the nose around off the lip. It has a lots of volume (5’6” x 23” x 3”) so takeoffs are a breeze. It is a bit of a wave magnet. And being a Mini-Simmons it is fast. Any wave can be a good wave.

And like a real surf, the board is not perfect. There are some resin runs and drips, and a couple of scratches. It may develop a leak in time. I have not made the perfect board, just like I don’t surf the perfect wave that exists only in my head. But I like that.

Now I need to have another try at building a board, and I need to have another surf. I would like to finish by thanking Michael Sheldrake for creating some of the most exquisite surfboards/artwork on the planet.

For more information, see www.sheldrake.net/cardboards

“THE BOARD SURFS LIKE THE BUILD. YOU NEED TO FIND THE RIGHT BALANCE OF POWER AND GRACE. YOU REACT TO WHAT THE BOARD NEEDS ON THE WAVE.” LEFT: The crowning glory - a board like no other!

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LIVE THE DREAM

2015

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LATEST: TRAVEL

“Crystal clear waters and skies kept us in the water for most of the day”

Gold Coast surf photographer Glenn ‘Pugs’ Hardwick enjoyed crystal clear water and fun waves in the Telo Islands with his mates from the Narrowneck Longboard Club. Here’s the holiday snaps you wish you had.

WORDS & PHOTOS: PUGS

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LIVE

DREAM

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“That’s how surfing can bring a bunch of mates together” We set sail from the Port of Sibolga on an adventure of a lifetime on board the mighty Jiwa, all ten of us from the Narrowneck Longboard club.

We were headed for the Telo Islands where we found perfect 3 to 4 ft surf every day for 11 days straight. That’s a years worth of waves in 11 days, all very user-friendly and only a few resort boats around. There were a few days where it was a bit bigger but nothing to keep us out of the water and watching. The broken board tally at the end of the trip amounted to five - four longboards and a short board. It was a very costly trip for a few of the guys.

Crystal clear waters and skies kept us in the water for most of the day - three surfs, a few Bintangs and more food than you can handle. What else could you ask for?

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ELEMENT SERIES 4’2 / 19.5” / 2.3” / Kids Tri 5’0 / 20” / 2.3” / Kids Tri 5’0 / 20” / 2.3” / Twin 5’8 / 20” / 2.3” / Tri 5’8 / 21.5” / 2.3” / Twin Fish 6’4 / 22” / 2.7” - Twin Fish 6’4 / 20” / 2.7” - Short Tri 6’4 / 20” / 2.7” - Fun Tri 6’9 / 20” / 2.8” - Fun Tri 7’5 / 20” / 2.8” - Fun Tri 8’2 / 22” / 3.1” - Fun Tri

9’0 / 23.5” / 3.1” - Long Tri 10’0 / 25.5” / 3.2” - Long Tri

The surf guide, Eugene Tollemache, is a former European Surf Champ and a chef that keeps you frothing at every moment of the day. He has spent a lifetime in and around the islands and knows it like the back of his hand.

Best surf guide in Indo.

• Anti-Delamination Vinyl • Sealed Edges • Nose & Tail Protectors • New X-EPS Foam • Dual Aluminum Stringer

We had a crew of guys that ranged from 22 to 67 so that goes to show you that you can still ‘’live The dream’’ no matter what your age. That’s how surfing can bring a bunch of mates together.

02 4226 1322 • info@watermanssurf.com.au

It was my third trip on board Jiwa and I have already booked her for another ten mates in August next year, can’t wait Yeooowwwwww.

________

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For Glenn’s work at home, see his website, lookslikeme.com.au, and for his great volunteer work with the Disabled Surfers Association, see page 26.

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LATEST: LOCAL ABOVE: Mitchell driving hard in the Banyak Islands 80

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BLACK MAGIC PHOTO COURTESY OF RYZPHOTO.COM AND SURFBANYAK.COM

Mitchell Rae of Outer Island Surfboards on the New South Wales Mid North Coast has been crafting his unique high performance surf craft for some 50 years now. There is absolutely no argument whatsoever he is one of Australia’s foremost shapers. Indeed his innovation and artisan skills in our opinion place him and a select few in a complete field of their own. With all that said, he has taken his craft to a whole new level again.

Collaborating with non other than celebrated filmmaker/ photographer Alby Falzon, they have conspired to conjure up Buddha Stix – Mitchell’s boards adorned with Alby’s artwork and images. As Mitchell puts it, “Arcane spiritual imagery and art meets science design technology. These boards will take your surfing to a higher realm. They’re gallery level surfboards as art forms charged with iconic images and cosmic energy fields.”

Not only do they go like the ducks guts as seen in this photo, the amount of detail in the boards is nothing short of incredible. Just check out one of these boards in detail over the page and you will be in complete awe.

XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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LATEST: LOCAL

Most who have seen photos of this particular board, called the Gold Leaf, have been left shaking their head. We featured a few small photos of it in our Random Tales from the Road in our Autumn edition earlier this year and since have been inundated with requests to see more of this board.

The reason for its name? Your eyes are not deceiving you, that is a massive amount of gold leaf featured in Alby’s Bali inspired hand drawn and painted artwork 7’10” × 20’½” × 2’7/8” “I can ride this in anything from 3ft up.”

all over the board. Aside from the board’s stunning appearance it also features Mitchell’s cutting edge design elements and revered high performance flex properties.

Mitchell gave us a rundown on this out-of-this-world craft.

“This one has the full design technology package. V2Flex, full carbon fibre Flextail, turbocharged deep concaves, Persian Slipper dolphin nose, VE cross linked epoxy backbone resin and no wax deck.

The tail third of the board is fully alive with Flex.”

“It also features some new developments in the bottom shape

combining elements of my Moonraker model, which is a broad range, super fast design that works in anything from 2 ft to double-over-head, and my Blade Runner model.

“Now the Blade Runner started off as a channel bottom but then I put a really deep Venturi concave through the centre of it, effectively removing the centre channel area. So in effect it retains 4 channels and is super fast.

“This combination of my Blade Runner and Moonraker models is now what I refer to as a Zen Blade, which is this board. She absolutely lights up in perfect conditions. “

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More honed out than a butcher’s knife.

They really are quite extraordinary to ride.

OUTER ISLAND TECH • V2Flex – Mitchell’s proprietary inverted vee dual stringer that delivers flex between the riders feet.

• Carbon fibre Flextail – where 10-15% of the tail volume is removed, sculpting out unwanted foam, which is then restored to its original volume and buoyancy with soft, flexible bodyboard material that is bonded and shaped into the construction.

• Kinetic Construction (VE cross linked epoxy backbone resin) – Mitchell’s proprietary approach to using carbon and Texalium cloth in a way that creates a matrix of diagonal fibres that inherently increase the strength and flex properties of the board.

• Venturi concave – Quite a complex aspect of design to explain in brief other than to say this approach is intended to increase lift and subsequent board speed.

XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GEAR: INNOVATIONS

HOLLOW VICTORY? FAR FROM IT... In fact, the technology Aviso introduced to the surfboard industry was revolutionary. The science behind how their boards were constructed where they used an autoclave process, core cell and pre-impregnated carbon to create a lightweight, hollow and near indestructible surfboard was nothing short of breathtakingly brilliant.

My appreciation for this unique manufacturing process however was from afar. I had never yet managed to see an Aviso surfboard in person. You can imagine how stoked I was when The Board Meeting, a Sunshine Coast charity that stages various surf-related events throughout the year to raise much-needed funds for severely disabled local children and their families, were hosting a Long Lunch I was to attend. There at the lunch, various surfboards and memorabilia were to be auctioned including a very rare Aviso hollow carbon fibre surfboard shaped by none other than legendary board builder Dick van Straalen. In fact the board was from his personal collection.

Aviso specialised in composite engineering techniques. The materials and methods employed were well known within the aerospace and defense industry, where Aviso had made a name for themselves. They translated their experience in advanced composite construction techniques and applied them to surfboard construction and began working with some of the world’s most recognised shapers to produce their signature models. At one stage I believe Aviso was working with 21 shapers, producing some 85 designs. Dick van Straalen was one of these shapers. A while back I had the opportunity to speak with Dick about working with Aviso and this is what he had to say.

Considering there was a remote possibility I could purchase such a board had me a little toey I have to admit. The reality however was I hadn’t been recently divorced, nor had I won lotto, so the chances of that happening were pretty remote.

Anyhow as per usual I digress.

“They were a three-generation family company.

The grandfather put the spaceships on the moon, the father worked on a lot of America’s Cup yachts.

“Why all the fuss about Aviso?” I here you say.

Well I had read swathes of articles about these boards and quite simply, they fascinated me.

This was a company who took a super high tech approach to removing the blank altogether from surfboard construction.

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“They were the most advanced board on the market but unfortunately nobody wanted to pick up on it. Carbon is fantastic and I don’t understand why more people aren’t on to it. Every form of high tech craft in the world is using carbon from aeroplanes through to racing yachts and I am surprised the surfing industry is not using more of it. A strip here and there is useless.”

ABOVE: Aviso Dick van Straalen Rocket Fish TOP: Dick tells the story behind the board at the Long Lunch

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Each Aviso surfboard was primarily made of unidirectional and woven carbon fibre, with a layer of high-density closed cell foam sandwiched within the deck and the bottom to give each panel stiffness.

The first step in the construction process was to create two halves to the board – a deck and bottom. Layers of pre-preg carbon were placed in a mould sandwiching the foam. Once the deck and bottom laminates were complete, rail plies would be used to tie the two together. All would then be placed within a mould, with a membrane bag on the inside of the two panels. The bag would be inflated to hold the fibre in place and put pressure on the laminate to the inner shell of the mould before it was baked to cure the epoxy resin.

Each board’s hollow construction not only made them incredibly light but supposedly delivered unique flex properties heightening performance. Since the deck and bottom weren’t directly connected, except through the rails, they flexed independently. This acted as a suspension system of sorts reportedly ‘launching surfers from one turn into the next with remarkable control and momentum’. If I understand the claims correctly, the bottom morphed into the wave straightening the rocker whilst the deck absorbed and stored potential energy so the surfer would supposedly experience an ‘almost constant state of acceleration’.

Get back to the roots... with paulownia

Native Hawaiian surfer with alaia board, circa 1911

Aside from claims of superior performance, Aviso also stated their boards were seven times stronger than a standard PU board. This improved durability along with their construction technique heightened their eco credentials. Dick underlined this claim.

“They were the most environmentally-friendly boards because there was next to no waste. It was hollow, there was no foam in it and prepreg carbon was used.”

Aviso claimed that 100% of all the Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) were contained within the mould during the construction process. As we understand it, rather than use wet resins, curing boards with preimpregnated resins under vacuum supposedly traps the fumes within the mould.

Our buoyant, lightweight timber floats all around the world.

• Tom Wegener preferred alaia blanks • Alaia & Kite Boards • Long Boards • Hollow Boards • Chambered Boards

“The surfboard industry has unbelievable waste. I handshape everything but from what I understand with computer shaping, the robot discards most of the blank and close to 50% ends up on the floor.

That to me is ludicrous, particularly in a time when we need to be environmentally conscious.”

Researching Aviso this time last year when we were putting together our Surfing Earth-Friendly Edition (issue #26) I was stunned to learn of the closure of their surfboard manufacturing arm. Unfortunately it appears the price Aviso were asking for these boards, near twice that of a standard PU board, coupled with the downturn in the global economy, saw not enough people buying them.

Maybe we will see this technology revisited in the future with heightened concerns for the environment or if construction costs can be significantly reduced? A ‘hollow existence’ may yet prove beneficial to the earth. As for the sweet 5’10” x 20” x 2.75” Aviso Dick van Straalen Rocket Fish that was up for auction at The Board Meeting charity lunch, which Dick had signed I might add, and that weighed under 2kg, some lucky bugger purchased it for near the price of a standard board. Bugger, bugger, bugger... My appreciation for now will have to continue from afar.

SURFBOARD SUPPLIES

Buy the Best Paulownia Timber Australia has to offer.

Contact David Evans P: 03 9588 2533 E: info.sales@paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com W: www.paulowniasurfboardsupplies.com

XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GEAR: BOARDS

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

5’10” x 18 ¾” x 2 1/8”

5’7” x 19” x 2 3/16”

WHITE CROW

HIPSTER DOOFUS

This is a high 3 performance shortboard designed for summer conditions. Low entry rocker, mid/boxy rail though the middle. Single to double concave to vee behind the rear fin make gathering speed and turning in weak waves easy. With the low entry rocker and foam carrying right to the rail under chest, your wave count will be up!

RIDER COMMENTS 5 “This little 5’7 feels magic, a really nice outline with the pulled in round tail make it transition really well and releases when you want it to.

by Robbie Marshall

by Robbie Marshall

“The tail’s also a bit thinner so it’s really responsive and can fit turns in tight pockets.

Low rocker makes it really fast on full waves and linking between fat sections, while the responsive tail still lets you make quick adjustments, so it doesn’t catch when gets more hollow.”

SOUL ARCH SURFBOARDS Ph: 0404 348 131 E: dobba_21@hotmail.com Soularch Surfboards robbie_marshall21

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GEAR SU RFB O AR D S

SO, HOW DO ROBBIE MARSHALL’S SOUL ARCH BOARDS GO? Ask Jake Spellacy, here in Mexico on his gun, featured in the Smorgasborder Easter issue. Photo Hannah Gilligan, courtesy of Robbie Marshall XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GEAR: BOARDS

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

5’10” x 19 ¾” x 2 ½”

5’8” x 19 ¾” x 2 ½”

5’8” SINGLE

by Mark Rabbidge

This one was made 1 especially for Pam (Burridge). It’s a replica of her original 5’8”. Pam’s first surfboard. It was made in the traditional theme of boards from that era. All the colour work you see including the black lines are tints. It was a nightmare to make but a worthy wall-hanger.

9’6” x 23” x 3”

BLENDED SINGLE FIN LONGBOARD

by Mark Rabbidge

1

This one is an old school longboard blended with a performance longboard. I shaped it for Shaun to surf Crescent Head. It basically has the glide of an old school longboard with a bit of life added to it. Nice blue tint with a fabric inlay means she looks pretty sweet as well.

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DEATH LETTER

by Jesse Watson

5 “The Death Letter is exactly what the name says - an amazing board that has spelt the demise of the cookie cutter white performance shortboard as we know it. I recently watched a buddy do one of the biggest roundhouse whacks I have ever seen on this very model - BOOM! “4/4oz deck 4 oz bottom - hot pink/slate grey resin tint combo 5 fin FCS.”

7’6” x 21 ½”x 2 ¾”

ANCHORS PHASE II

by Jesse Watson

1 If you could only have one board in your quiver, this is the board. It will ride 2’ - 10’ pointbreaks to beachbreaks.

The most versatile board in our range. Single fins bring surfing back to its rawest form and the intuitiveness is amazing. You dont have to think, you just surf.

6/6oz deck 6oz bottom custom Burt Reynolds Boogie Nights inlay, single 9” flex fin.

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN Bendalong, NSW Ph: 02 4456 4038 M: 0427 767 176 www.markrabbidge.com

BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS @blackapache Look us up...

P: 0410 419 791

E: blackapache@me.com

blackapachesurfboards.com

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS 6’2” x 20 ¼” x 2 ¾”

SMARTBOARD Custom handshape

by Mitchell Rae

Available as a V2Flex 5 5-fin option, this Smartboard features a Bali batik fabric inlay and gold pinline.

Fast, easy wave entry, low rocker glides through summer slop... The perfect summer magic carpet.

6’1 x 18 ¾” 2 ½”

5’9” x 18 ¾” x 2 5/16”

SHORTBOARD

ALL ROUNDER

by Jason Oliver

by Daren Glennan

For everyday use, 3 this one from recycled pine pallets, hollow construction, finished in epoxy. 3x fins FCS

Single to double concave, Futures thruster setup.

FULLY SEALED INSIDE.

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Neon tint cutlap Lam. King poly foam, Newkem poly resin.

Compliment with a set list of Social Distortion, DRI, Suicidal Tendencies and Rise Against before paddling out.

Available by custom order throughout the size range.

OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 7 Bayldon Drive, Raleigh, NSW Ph: 02 6655 7007 info@outerislandsurfboards.com outerislandsurfboards.com outerisland.blogspot.com Outer Island Surfboards

9’2” x 22 ½” x 2 ¾”

HPLB

by Daren Glennan

2+1

Slight nose concave to rolled vee to double concave. 2+1 setup FCS + 9” fin box. King poly foam, Newkem poly resin, gloss and polish.

High performance longboarding with enough nose to get to tip.

JASON OLIVER

HOLLOW WOODEN SURFBOARDS

Ph: 0416 475 362 Email: jasoliver@live.com

jasonoliverwoodensurfboards.com.au Boards available at: UNDERGROUND SURF, Noosa Heads

ENTITY SURFBOARDS Ph: 0423 987 492 1-2/2 Regmoore Cl, Culburra Beach NSW 2540 ww.entitysurfboards.com.au XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GEAR: BOARDS

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

5’6” x 21” x 2 ¾”

BLACK HEART TWIN

5’11” x 18 7/8” x 2 ¼”

Flat bottom, low rocker, with a scooped vee off the tail.

by Rory Oke

by Rory Oke

2

Hand shaped Ocean Foam PU stringerless blank, 6oz cloth polished/wetrub finish and twin keels.

The stringerless blank with deep swallow gives plenty of flex throughout the board, releasing more energy which creates more speed.

5’9” x 20 ¼” x 2 5/8”

JACK OF ALL TRADES

MARBLE MEATSTICK Josh ‘Meatballs’ Meyer’s personal model.

by Leighton Clark

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Handshaped Ocean Foam PU blank, 6 oz cloth, black marble pigment. Thruster setup.

The new summer all-round shortboard. Wider nose, lower rocker, flatter deck but still a performance shortboard outline. Ride an inch or two shorter than normal.

OKE SURFBOARDS 1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC, 3195 Ph: 03 9587 3553 okesurfboards.com 90

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“Round tail. Low entry rocker.

Single to double concave with v exiting in tail. Futures boxes.

“Cut lap resin tint. Great all round board for summer waves but comes alive as stuff gets a bit more serious.”

Units 7 & 8, 9 Chapman Road, Hackham SA 5163

E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au

M: 0422 443 789

facebook.com/thedingkingAUS

9’2” x 23” x 3”

CLASSIC MAL

by Leighton Clark

“Custom inlay for all the Pirates out their.

Gloss polish. 10” center box. Futures side bites.

2+1

“Perfect for the warm summer swells. Lively off the tail but stable on the nose.”

The Ding King is a collaborative of South Australian surfboard shapers, glassers, artists and sanders. As well as pumping out ding repairs, we also produce brand new surfcraft and run shaping workshops.

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS 6’0”x 19 1/8” x 2 7/8”

SQUASH

5’6”x 20 1/8” x 2 5/8”

5-FIN FISH

by Stewart Maxwell

by Stewart Maxwell

Available with two 3 different bottom contours. One where the concave carries right the way through and the other with a flatter entry through to a 4mm concave two thirds of the way through the board.

From 5’8” to 6’4”, in any tail or thickness.

Flatter rocker with 5 old school S-Deck with the volume under chest but with a modern bottom with all the bells and whistles - 6mm vee with double barrel concaves. This one’s a fish tail up to 6’0”, but boards are available as customs in any tail or thickness,

6’3 ½”x 22 1/8” x 2 ½”

6’4”x 22 1/8” x 2 ½”

MAGIC CARPET 1

MAGIC CARPET 2

Quad or thruster 5 setup with a whole heap of subtleties in the bottom. Too many to detail so come in and have a chat.

Available from 6’2” to 6’8” in any tail shape and to any thickness.

Quad or thruster 5 setup with a whole heap of subtleties in the bottom. Too many to detail so come in and have a chat.

Available from 6’2” to 6’8” in any tail shape and to any thickness.

by Stewart Maxwell

by Stewart Maxwell

MAXIMUM SURFBOARDS

46 Currumbin Creek Rd, Currumbin Waters QLD Ph: 0400 338 098 E: maximumsurf@bigpond.com www.maximumsurfboards.com.au XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GEAR: BOARDS

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

9’6” x 23” x 3”

TAANE TOKANA The board is 9’6” x 3 23 x 3, designed for a bloke who knows what he is doing but wants to enjoy the smooth, fast action of a board with a concave nose and vee through the tail.

6’0” x 20 ½” x 2 ½”

FUN, FAST & FISHY

6’10” x 20“ x 2 ¾”

by Graham Carse

3 Fun fish designed for small waves. It spent 3hrs on the rack and was sold!

Woo!

USA EAST COASTER

by Graham Carse

3 Made for Kristoffer from Washington DC. He wanted a board for the fun waves of the East.

QUARRY BEACH SURFBOARDS 75 David St, Caversham, Dunedin NZ

Ph: +64 3 455 7414 M: +64 27 518 8678 www.qbsurfboards.com

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8’ x 29” x 4 ½”=114 litres.

10’6” x 32” x 4 13/16”=180 litres

CUSTOM TO SUIT

CUSTOM TO SUIT

by Andy Jordan

by Andy Jordan

LSX 10’6”

BESPOKE

FARR OUT

“A fishy style board 5 that has a light vee in the nose through to the middle with double concave through the tail. This board is designed for having fun in little waves but still having volume so you don`t have to keep paddling.

“The 10’6” is similar 3 to the 10’ but narrower, has a curvy outline with a full nose and round square tail with vee and double concaves.

bespoke /br’speok/ ? (made to order/a specific use or purpose).

For those who don’t want to follow, but work on their own program and experiment with their own design.

Get what you want, not what they ride.

Custom shape by us or come and shape your own under our guidance. Visit www.seasonssurfboards.co.nz for details

This is the “Farr Out 3 performance model“ as ridden buy Daniel Farr in winning the NZ under 16 scholastic’s.

High performance single through double concave, subtle flat through front foot for speed and for flat wave carry, with medium tail release. Low, edgier rail profile.

Available in all sizes to suit.

LSX 8’

“The LSX 8’ is only 5 litres less than last year’s 8’8”.

“These qualities make the board stable as well as an easy wave catcher. This board is a really smooth ride, and an excellent flowing board. It can be used in any surf conditions and also tracks well in the flat water for long distances.

“The 10’6” is an ideal allround board with plenty of volume suitable for novice riders 60-95kg or advanced surfers 90+kg.”

TAURANGA, NZ

(In NZ 0800 787 464) P: +64 (07) 5701953 M: +64 (027) 2433011 W: www.liquidstixx.co.nz

by us, or you...

by Bryan ‘BJ’ Smith

SEASONS SURFBOARDS

E: seasons@xtra.co.nz P: +64 2 173 2766 W: www.seasonssurfboards.co.nz XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GEAR SUR F BOARDS

BELOW: Andrew Bennett in Fiji. Photo by Nick Liotta.

ABOVE: Mike T. Photos supplied courtesy of 1-DA Shapes

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS 5’8”x 19 5/8” x 2 7/16” (30.2L)

5’4”x 20 3/8” x 2 3/8” (31.4L)

5’6”x 19 7/8” x 2 7/16” (30.4L)

DUB T

BUZZINGA

HYPO

The DUB T was designed as a true 2 Twin Fin surfboard. It has the added benefit of a centre fin box to fit a small stabiliser for more hold and drive when it gets big.

Put the ‘buzz’ back into your small wave surf sessions 5 with this little gem! The design came through discussions with Bobby Martinez of what he likes in his shoulder-highand-under boards where he feels the ‘buzz’.

Hype up your surf sessions this summer!

The BUZZINGA is DESIGNED FOR FUN, but of course with a ‘performance’ edge, typical of Gav’s designs. This FUN hybrid includes a full nose outline. The bottom has a roll for ease of water placement, which feeds into a single to double vee concave offering increased speed.

Designed for small to medium waves, this model paddles and catches waves like a dream due to the volume under the chest.

This twinnie features a single into a double concave with a slight vee off the tail, working in conjunction with the single flyer swallow tail for added drive. The design also incorporates a time tested rocker, with a flatter deck and mid+ rails.

The DUB T was designed for small to overhead waves.

A ‘must have’ in your quiver this summer for all twin fin lovers!

After viewing footage of surfers riding similar designed boards, Gav also added a double flyer so the tail isn’t so loosey goosey. The total package for small wave days … fun and performance!

Surfboards by Gavin Upson

Ph: 07 5534 7704 E: info@1-dashapes.com W: 1-dashapes.com

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The HYPO is all about speed and fun. You’ll find yourself making sections you wouldn’t normally make on your high performance short board.

Speed is generated through the old school single fin outline, which is complimented with a nice round tail for smooth transition between turns and mid rails keeping the board connected to the wave.

The flatter rocker and concave give you all the speed under the sun. Gav added a little bit of added kick in the nose to prevent pearling too. And the double concave vee round tail combination generates ease of rail to rail transition.

7’6”x 21 5/8” x 2 7/8” (52.9L)

LITTLE WARRIOR The design of the LITTLE WARRIOR is based on the foamy Learn-To-Surf boards. This mini mal has a flat deck and beefed up rails providing stability which is great for beginners.

3

The LITTLE WARRIOR isn’t just for beginners. It’s also great for the intermediate and advanced mal riders, for when the waves are waist height and under, it has enough floatation without having to throw around all the volume and length of a 9 foot + mal.

1-DA Shapes XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GEAR: BOARDS

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

5’11” x 20” x 2 5/8”=35L

6’5” x 21” x 2 ¾” = 44L

6’1” x 19” x 2 3/8” = 28L

5’10” x 20” x 2 5/8”= 35L

LUXE TWIN

SLIPPER

TUG DELUXE

WHIPPIT

The Luxe Twin is a 2 contemporary take on the ‘70s classic. A fuller forward feeling outline with an accelerating narrower tail curve, allows you to have a great paddle advantage with excellent drive and manoeuvrability from the flyers in the tail. If you like fin and edge surfing with continuous glide and acceleration throughout the turns, then this could be your next choice.

The Slipper is a classic 1 styled board with a a contemporary feel. If you love the feeling of projection, freedom and glide out of your turns, with a bit of modern go fast and turn technology, then this board will have you beaming from the first wave.

Tug Deluxe is the board 3 that has allowed Josh Grange to win the last three Qld titles in a row...well done Josh! .....a high performance board for day to day surfing.

Whippit is a super 4 fun all round board that will perform exceptionally well in a variety of waves. The wide point is forward, a flattened rocker and a roll under the nose, this board is typically ridden quite short. Plenty of paddle power and spark in the turns from the deepish double concave, this is a real ‘go to’ board for those wanting a one board quiver.

by Chris Garrett

It performs well in and around the pocket and yet maintains drive and trim out on the face. It is quite at home in either the beach breaks or those super fast down the line point waves. Best ridden with set side fins to maximize performance and longevity and can be fitted with an extra set of tail plugs for the small stabilizer.

by Chris Garrett

There’s plenty of volume to glide you easily onto a wave and give you all the speed, trim and hold to push you down the line if you want or just style in the pocket.

When the waves get up and start cranking, and line up dominance is important, the Slipper is a real performer that will get you into and through some of the deepest sections that you’d like to be in. A set fin is best but a fin box is the popular choice.

by Chris Garrett

Ideally suited to better quality waves but quite capable of holding its own in the junk as well, it is the perfect option for those high speed critical manoeuvres with a bit of forgiveness built in to get you through when you’re not on your game. Lower rocker in the nose and a bit of kick in the tail keeps the triple concave to vee alive and responsive.

by Chris Garrett

A quad set up is optimal and in the Fouruster configuration..... think your best board, cut about a foot off it and it is now your best board ever!!

CHRIS GARRETT SHAPES PHANTOM SURFBOARDS Ph: 0424 450 690 E: phantomsurfboards@gmail.com www.chrisgarrettshapes.com.au Custom surfboards available at: SUNHOUSE, Coolangatta, or order from Chris direct.

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS 5’6” x 19 ¾” x 2 ½”

5’11” - 7’6” (CUSTOM)

5’6” - 6’4” (CUSTOM)

SIDE UP MICROCHIP EGG SUNNY

SLAB

FISH

Inches shorter than your average 3 or 4 funboard, however, the construction offers much more floatation, and with flatter rocker results in easy paddling.

Flyers and a fish tail make it easier to maintain speed through softer sections. Surf as a thruster or quad for that skatey feeling. Also great for the kids!

A small wave alternative with added stability and more versatility than a sub-7ft 5 board. Ideal for smaller or fuller waves, but just as much fun in the hollow stuff with a single concave through to vee and flatter rocker. An easier progression from a longboard, or to keep you in the water when the waves are gutless, but you still want some fun!

Fast and fun, the fish offers quick rail to rail 2 or 4 transitions. A wider, flatter, fuller, easy paddling board that is ride-able at a significantly shorter length.

Increased flow and trim make them excellent on longer point waves, but with a few refinements, are equally adaptable to beach breaks.

Add single or multiple flyers to maintain that shortboard feel.

Available in a wide range of sizes and fin options depending on your style.

Available as twin, quad or both options.

Differing from normal polyurethane foam, these boards are constructed with a polystyrene core, making them lighter with better flotation.

Shaped from Peter’s original, the board is glassed using Epoxy resin.

3mm of PVC is then applied using superior technology. This produces an extremely strong surfboard.

Strong, lightweight and lots of fun!

6’2” - 7’6” (CUSTOM)

Offering masses of fun the egg is versatile in a wide 5 array of conditions, able to tackle almost any wave, from mellow points to hollow beach breaks. The Sunny Side Up is a fuller version with wider nose and tail that can be surfed inches shorter than your average short-board. With a slight vee and double concave through the tail this model is fast, producing tight turns. Change it up by surfing as a quad, single fin or 2+1. Plenty of flotation equals easy paddling.

Quality Australian made and handshaped, this board’s dimensions can be custom made to suit a surfer of any size, style or ability.

Peter White shaped his first surfboard in 1965 and has made surfboards ever since, having travelled the world sharing his craft throughout England, Spain, Japan, Taiwan and now China. Mainly shaping short-boards during the first 20 years, it wasn’t until he moved to Queensland in 1987, that he concentrated on long-boards and fun-boards.

Hence the Classic Malibu brand evolved.

CLASSIC MALIBU WE’RE BACK FOR A SUMMER OF FUN! 16 Mary Street, Noosaville, 4566 P: (07) 5474 3122 E: info@classicmalibu.com www.classicmalibu.com Follow us if you share our passion for quality manufactured surfboards Classic Malibu Surfboards, Noosa

OUR HISTORY

@classicmalibu

Classicmalibu1

When Peter White moved to Noosa and first founded Classic Malibu about 28 years ago, he was the only surfboard manufacturer and retailer in the Noosa region. Moving from Victoria, in southern Australia, for the undeniable easy going surf lifestyle, warm climate and fun waves on offer, Peter quickly established himself as the most innovative and best long board designer in Australia. Expanding over the years Classic Malibu Surfboards are now recognised all around the world as a purveyor of expertly crafted traditional and progressive surfboards of all sizes and shapes.

XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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GEAR: BOARDS

BLACK HULA

5

9’8” x 21 ¼” x 3 /8” = 79.8L

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

5’10” x 18 5/8” x 2 ¼” = 25.7L

5’5” x 19 ½” x 2 5/16” = 27.2L

6’2” x 18 ½” x 2 3/8” = 29.2L

• • • •

• • •

• • •

SNIPER

• • • •

Shortboard Medium nose and tail rocker Deep single concave Medium / Low boxy rail

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Small wave Fish board Low nose and tail rocker Slight single concave to veed tail Medium boxy rail

NAPALM •

Step-Up board Medium nose and tail rocker Slight single concave to double concave Medium boxy rail

Big wave board Medium nose and low tail rocker Vee bottom Medium boxy rail with refined tail

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SMORGASBOARDER | XMAS 2015

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From this pristine, sterile … laboratory in Far North Queensland

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CLOSEOUT: COLUMNS

TALKING BOARD DESIGN WITH JESSE WATSON OF BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS SO HERE WE GO... SOME OF YOU MAY BE CHAMPING AT THE BIT TO GET INTO THIS AND YET OTHERS MAY BE ASKING WHY, HAPPY IN THE BELIEF THAT WHAT MAKES A SURFBOARD WORK IS SOME MYSTICAL COMBINATION OF VOODOO, ALCHEMY AND WITCHCRAFT ALL ROLLED INTO ONE. What I hope to give you in this series is the ability to unravel some mysteries and hopefully teach you a bit more about your boards, how they work and why they work. It’s something that has been of great interest to me since before I ever picked up the shaping tools, probably

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the reason I eventually did, and is still a huge part of my dealings with new customers now.

Firstly though my disclaimer: What I represent and try to teach you here are the theories and the knowledge I’ve learnt from standing on the shoulders of great shapers before me. Some of the knowledge was willingly passed on and encouraged and some gleaned from interaction and exposure. Even more of it has come from my own personal research. When we talk in terms of hydrodynamics we talk in terms that are reasonably absolute, however due to the changing nature of water as a liquid and the many variables associated with both the

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TRIED & TRUSTED surfer, the type of wave and the shape of the boards themselves, what I will try to share is definitely open to conjecture. You may find that some of what I say resonates with you at times, yet at others find yourself thinking this guy is a moron. That is perfectly fine too (my wife has a club you can join). Even if we disagree, at least you’re thinking about it, which is the aim from the beginning. I wholeheartedly welcome debate as it projects ideas forward into the future and...

blanKS d run n a d e n w o y il Fam er 55 years for ov

I AM ALWAYS EAGER TO LEARN TOO. I will try to give you my perspective as someone who started out hand shaping and foiling fins under a tree in the backyard, progressed into production factories, has had the privilege to work with some of the country’s best craftsmen and has been able to do so for more than 10 years. 10 years is just a blip on the Australian surfing scene and we still have some of the very first manufacturers in Australia still making boards to this day so again I’m just a baby. I have however had the opportunity to run everything from electric planers to old school rocker jigs and routers (the very first shaping machines) CNC shaping machines and further to the modern CNC Shaping machines as well as exposure to various machinery for cutting panels, foiling fins etc. etc. So even in a short 10-year period I have had the luxury of being involved and exposed to virtually every aspect of the industry that takes place on Australian soil. I recently started studying engineering with a particular interest in engineering design and materials.

What I hope is that this experience will in some small way qualify me to try to give an unbiased and honest input into the subjects we are going to cover. By all means I want your involvement. If there is a subject you would like covered, or you want more information than this small section allows for contact Smorgasboarder and we can make it happen.

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At the end of the day what I hope to achieve is a greater knowledge of surfboards for the average guy/ girl on the street. It can be a minefield for the average punter not armed with the information you need. You may find yourself too afraid to order a custom board or frozen in front of a rack of boards unsure of what you want or need and why; afraid to look stupid by asking questions you are left stranded, relying solely on the logic of the salesman next to you; unrealistically hopeful that this guy knows you, your style, where you surf, how you surf and can guide you to a magic board. The number of things I’ve heard told to potential customers in a retail setting that were completely wrong and backwards is incredible. Please do not get me wrong, my aim is not to drive you away from buying boards from a shop at all, for many people the act of holding a board under arm is a huge indicator of its suitability and likely performance (a subject we will touch on) and this is usually in a retail setting. Besides there are some awesome core board stores out there. What I do hope to change is your total reliance on anyone for information that you can learn yourself. Maybe the salespeople out there may even be listening too and the whole scenario can improve for everybody involved. Happy customers are after all return customers.

As a shaper the best outcomes for custom orders and the clients that I have the most mutually rewarding relationships with are the ones who have a basic idea of what they want and what they are trying to do with their surfing in general.

Hopefully this little bit of knowledge will help at the very least to make the gap between owning magic boards that much smaller and save you from spending your days trying to desperately find a replacement for that one magic board you had way back when.

In the next issue we dive straight in so come prepared! www.blackapachesurfboards.com XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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PADDLING EFFICIENTLY

THE SCIENCE AND SIX PADDLING TIPS There is a growing base of sports-specific analysis and research on sports including surfing. Better knowledge facilitates better performance, improved coaching methodology and better training which influences injury risk.

Australia has been a strong performer in swimming over the past two decades and much of the better research related to paddling stems from swimming research.

WORDS: PETER HOGG | PHOTOS: COURTESY OF HIVE SWIMWEAR, hiveswimwear.com

THE SCIENCE OF PADDLING - RESISTANCE AND PROPULSION : There are key principles of physics that explain the reasoning behind modifying and correcting paddling technique.

•

PADDLING - HOW MUCH DO WE DO? Research from Western Australia specifically related to surfing has shown that a surfer paddles approximately 85% of ‘active time’ or 60% of ‘total time in water’.

Over an average surf time of 2.5 hours, a surfer therefore paddles for 1.5 hours and at best spends 15 minutes riding waves. Given that most surfers only surf 1.5 - 3 times per week on average, which is quite sporadic, and considering there is such a high volume of paddling involved, it is understandable that there is a high incidence of shoulder problems affecting up to 60% of surfers.

Speed fluctuation when paddling creates more drag or resistance so it is better to continue inertia when paddling.( see ‘front quadrant’ stroke technique to make major improvements in consistent speed)

•

Drag is also increased by poor body position which affects the horizontal board tilt (increasing ‘vertical form drag’) and excessive head movement and/or body sway affects streamlining and increases ‘vortex drag’

•

Propulsion is optimised by pressing more efficiently on ‘still water’ (see technique advice re performing an ‘S’ Stroke)

Improved technique and fitness can result in paddling with less paddling expenditure (resulting in more waves, less fatigue and longer surfs)

•

paddling faster (resulting in gaining better priority, catching quicker waves at the take off and better positioning by being more responsive)

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less injuries

a testament to this - just watch him!

A steady head position will reduce lateral sway down the long body axis and will reduce ‘drag’.

2. HIGH ELBOW ON ‘CATCH PHASE’: The ‘catch phase’ is the start of the paddling stroke. Consistent with the physics of swimming, greater propulsion is achieved with a high elbow arm entry position. A high elbow arm position at catch increases surface area during the pull and also prolongs the effectiveness of the stroke. Some swim coaches refer to catching the water over an imaginary barrel to acquire the right position. Dropping the elbow during the pull phase, on the other hand, is inefficient and a common error.

3. FRONT QUADRANT PADDLING: We know from

WHY FOCUS ON PADDLING BETTER? •

SIX KEY METHODS TO IMPROVE PADDLING : 1. HEAD STILL: Kelly Slater is

‘FRONT QUADRANT PADDLING’

DRAG

Front Quadrant

‘WATERLINE’ Extended arm reach = faster paddling

CATCH WAVES

with high elbows

studies that a ‘longer vessel, boat or surfboard’ travels faster! Ensuring that one arm is always in the ‘front quadrant’ (in front of the plane of the shoulder- see diagram) will effectively increase vessel or body length and thus improve board speed by increasing ‘waterline length’. No wonder elite swimmers focus on reaching long as a race strategy!

Swimmers also use a ‘catch up stroke’ to practise keeping a hand in front of the shoulders for longer.

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Tradition, Style &Soul.

T O P O F T H E H I L L Clarence St, Yamba (02) 6645 8362 W W W . T H E P L A N K S H O P. C O M . A U

4. HORIZONTAL BALANCE: Try to optimise

the horizontal plane of the board and consider all critical variables such as head position(fwd/bwd), back arch and leg posture. All of these variables change the ‘sweet spot’ regarding the horizontal plane.

It is generally considered better if you can move forward on the board without sinking the board tip as this is faster. Test the board tilt as you paddle by placing head down and arms forward and adjust your body position up and down the board until you are comfortably balanced as forward as possible while you paddle. Most surf coaches see poor horizontal board tilt as the most common error amongst learner to intermediate surfers.

5. ‘S’ STROKE: To increase

propulsion an ‘S’ stroke should be utilised. This refers to the path of the hand underwater. Effectively the hand follows a ‘S’ which results in the hand moving diagonally through the stroke rather than purely straight backwards. By moving the hand/arm in this path, the hand surface finds ‘new water’ (water not already under inertia) and this results in better force production per pull. This ‘S’ stroke also recruits stronger and varied muscles creating better efficiency.

Coaches refer to ‘feeling the water’ and this is an excellent verbal queue for improving this skill.

6. SLIGHT BODY ROLL:

When paddling efficiently, there is a slight body roll through the long body/board axis. This can be initiated via the hips and helps to clear the recovery arm. The body roll also utilises trunk ‘counterrotation’ which improves core force and stability. Explore slight rotation of the body/board through the hip and engage the core as an exercise to gaining a stronger stroke.

Paddling is complex biomechanically but knowledge can improve precision and reduce injury. Paddling is a major part of surfing time and optimising this will affect your overall surf satisfaction.

There are strength exercises and mobility programs available from sports physiotherapists with an interest in swimming/surfing to optimise the ‘catch phase’ and ‘S’ stroke. There are other exercises to improve shoulder/ trunk strength when paddling and swimming in particular.

Aloha.

Peter Hogg

Peter Hogg Noosa Sports and Spinal Physiotherapist Olympic Winter Institute - Sports Physiotherapist (1997 - 2016) Ex Swim Coach and Olympic Physiotherapist for 2000 Sydney Olympics Aquatic Centre (avid surfer) XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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SMORGASBOARDER | XMAS 2015

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SUN SAFETY WITH SUN ZAPPER

MALT

In my previous column I talked about the importance of using good quality water in brewing. In this issue I’ll give you a bit of a run down on malt.

KICKIN’ IT OLD SCHOOL! Remember when you were a little grom.

On a hot, sunny day you would grab your bike and meet your mates at the park or the beach… but just before you slipped out the front door your mum would grab you by the collar and slather sunscreen all over your face, not missing a freckle. Maybe your mum was even more old school and would whip out the white zinc, cover your nose, tops of your ears and your bottom lip with a thick layer of it.

These days too many people forget to cover those at-risk areas and get cooked!

So maybe we should kick it old school and be more generous with the zinc and sunscreen on our faces - especially the ears, nose, cheeks and lips. Because let’s face it [excuse the pun] we don’t want our best-looking assets all red and sore. Not to mention peeling skin and the risk of premature ageing… yikes!

Now that you’re not living with good old mum (or maybe you are, nothing wrong with that) you need to take care of your face, so check out the Sun Zapper range with SPF 50+ Sunscreens and Zinc sticks that have 4 hours water resistance. Let’s not forget those luscious lips as the folks at Sun Zapper have got you covered with SPF 30+ Lip balm.

In order to make beer we need to find something for our trusty yeast to chew on, introducing... MALT. Malting is a process whereby a grain is steeped in water, and seeing as it is a living seed, the plant starts to germinate and develop a little rootlet. During this germination the energy reserves (that the plant was storing for the first phase of growth) are converted into more utilisable forms.

At this stage the maltster will heat the grain up in order to kill the seed and dehydrate it so that its reactions are stopped in their tracks. Pale malt is only heated to low temperatures in order to keep the colour light. As it’s a great source of brewing sugars, it forms the basis of most beers. However, in order to create those richer caramel-like flavours you might find in an amber or pale ale, grain is heated whilst still wet so that some of the sugars caramelize within the grain. To make a dark coloured beer with some roasty/coffee/stout-like flavours, grain is dried and heated to very high temperatures causing it to blacken.

Barley is packed full of enzymes that break carbohydrates into sugars and is therefore the most malted grain and the basis of most beers. However wheat, rye and oats are also commonly malted grains. These different grains have their pro’s and cons, and were initially used in areas where they were plentiful. Wheat beers (such as Hefeweizen’s) generally have an incredible head, using oats will make a beer creamy and rye often imparts a dry spiciness.

Jervis Bay Stand Up Paddle

At the brewery we mix various grains in different proportions to create the flavour profiles characteristic of our beers. For instance, our Pale Ale consists of 82% Pale malts, 12% Caramelized malts and 6% Wheat malt.

Next up: HOPS! The Sun Zapper range has you covered with its Zinc-based Sunscreens and Zinc sticks, all Aussie made. Find Sun Zapper at your local surf store, Woolworths, Big W, IGA and FoodWorks.

www.sunzapper.com.au

Alastair Gillespie holds a Bachelors of Science in Microbiology, is a madkeen surfer and the Head Brewer at Byron Bay Brewery.

byronbaybrewery.com.au

Lessons, Tours, Board Hire www.jervisbaystanduppaddle.com.au

0403 354 716

XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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MOVIES

E SWAN SURF FILM REVIEW BY DAV

STORM RIDERS 25TH ANNIVERSARY EDITION

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Released in 1982, digitally remastered and re-released in 2007 to celebrate the movie’s 25th anniversary, Storm Riders is a film

by David Lourie, Jack McCoy and Dick Hoole. It features the likes of Mark Richards, Wayne Lynch, Gerry Lopez, Shaun Thomson, Rabbit Bartholomew, Simon Anderson, Peter McCabe, Tom Carroll, Joe Engel and Thornton Fallander surfing Sumatra, Java, Bali, Africa, Hawaii and Australia.

It has got to be one of the greatest surf movies of all time. If you don’t as yet have it in your collection, it is a must. Further cementing it in my list of all-time favourites is the fact, having recently met Dick Hoole, he is such a down-to-earth, easy-to-talkto, nice bloke. I really do get blown away at times with how genuine so many fair-dinkum legends of the surf scene are. I am an even bigger fan now than before.

What takes this movie to another level again, in my opinion, is

the soundtrack. If you like Australian pub rock from the 80s you will love this: Sunnyboys, Mi-Sex, Jo Jo Zep, Mondo Rock, Moving Pictures, The Church, Split Enz, Aussie Crawl, Models and the Little River Band.

Watching the film again at the opening of the Noosa Film Festival rekindled my love for the movie and brought back a wave of childhood memories, back when I had hair, a long, long time ago.

Ondi (Underground Surf) with Dick Hoole

CLASSIC SURF COMPANY

There is a bonus sequence on the remastered version of that very special place called “Kong’s Island”.

Sunny Coast surfers and any who have visited our fair shores will know what I am talking about.

Buy it for a friend or loved one this Christmas. Storm Riders is the perfect gift for any salty surfer.

Available at any decent surf shop.

(Believe it or not, Dick still does the rounds visiting all the surf shops along the East Coast distributing his range of movies and photos under the name of the Classic Surf Company).

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CLOSEOUT: LIVE IT UP

NOOSA FILM FEST KICKS OFF The VIP event that kicked off the inaugural Noosa Surf Film Festival in October was held at the Underground Surf Emporium & Cafe in Hastings Street Noosa.

Louise Clark and Amelia Shaw were the ladies behind the Noosa Surf Film Festival, created to showcase the prestigious talent in surf filmmaking and entries into the festival were outstanding.

The VIP night at the Underground was a haven for filmmakers as they mingled with likeminded surfing souls and were treated to a special compilation of Greg Huglin’s works showcasing new footage featuring Dean Brady, Matt Cuddihy and a heap of other talented surfers along with older footage from his feature films including Shark Park, Fantasia and Hawaiian Watermen.

The ever-charming Dick Hoole also spoke with the crowd about the early days working with Jack McCoy and the equipment they started out with.

He completed the night with a special showing of his movie Stormriders. Dick is also well known for the well-loved surf movie Tubular Swells and took some of the most iconic surf photography of the seventies including elusive shots of Michael Peterson surfing.

Filmakers Tom Wegener, Andrew Boch, Andy Staly, Mark Waters and many others mingled through the surfboards into the Underground surfers lounge to watch the special screenings on the big screen.

SA FILM XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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ITS ALL ABOUT SURFING! 110

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CLOSEOUT: LIVE IT UP

“THE EVENT IS DESIGNED TO PROMOTE FUN, HEALTHY LIFESTYLES AND THE SPORT OF SURFING FOR CHILDREN ON THE SUNSHINE COAST.”

Pacific PULSE Pacific Lutheran College have been running the grommets surf event engaging kids between 8 and 13 years for the past 9 years. The event is designed to promote fun, healthy lifestyles and the sport of surfing for children on the Sunshine Coast.

5 schools in the Caloundra region, enjoying the 20-heat event run in conjunction with Diploma of Events students from TAFE East Coast. The day showcased amazingly talented up and coming local surfers with Buddina Primary School crowned the winning team on the day.

This year’s Pacific Pulse annual surf competition was held on the 20th of October at Kings Beach, Caloundra. 51 children participated from the

A special thanks to our sponsors of the event: LKI - Loose Kid Industries and Smorgasboarder.

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New Zea land supplier of wooden D.I. Y. surfboard kits

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RATES FROM $10 A NIGHT FOR TENT SITES 112

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ards, ddle Gu Plugs a P & e sh Nos e & Lea Rail Tap

IN THE BACK YARD Don’t you just hate people like this? Earlier this year I undertook a wooden surfboard-building course with the good folks from Tree to Sea. You may recall we featured the experience in our Autumn issue this year.

k Fins

Pro Tec

Well one of the guys who undertook the course with me was Sean Cooney, who runs an architectural practice in Fitzroy North, Melbourne.

He seemed a nice bloke and appeared pretty comfortable with all the woodworking equipment.

By all accounts when the workshop was finished his board looked a cracker. All Sean had to do when he got home was tart it up and seal it with some marine grade varnish. He sent me some photos of the finished product prior to us going to print with this issue and bugger me, I get so envious when people take it to the next level.

s

epair Kit

afe R Travel S

Congrats Sean she looks

mighty fine but you ain’t seen my Flathead yet.

02 4226 1322 113 XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER info@watermanssurf.com.au Nov2015_Smorgas_Closeout - TOTAL.indd 113

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CLOSEOUT: ALOHA BARRY

SHARKS LINKED TO BEACH TERROR PLOT...

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XMAS 2015 | SMORGASBOARDER

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