Smorgasboarder Surfing Magazine Issue 8 by Smorgasboarder Magazine

212-PAGES

AND IT’S FREE!

DOMESTIC DEPARTURES

SYDNEY’S NORTHERN BEACHES ...P112

ONE MAN’S QUEST TO GET BACK ON BOARD ...P60

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INTERVIEW

BEN OXENBOULD ...P42

THE MAGAZINE FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO SURF ISSUE #8 NOV/DEC 2011

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SINCE 1971

F RO OU LIN E T N L UA R O H I RT H OU OU G V R IT A W LK-TH KE TA H OP A S W E TH V IDEO

TEAM RIDER CHAD GIBSON ALL PHOTOS BY JACOB LAMBERT

GOODTIME SURF & SAIL 29 IPSWICH ROAD, WOOLLOONGABBA, BRISBANE 07 3391 8588 WWW.GOODTIME.COM.AU INFO@GOODTIME.COM.AU JOIN US ON FACEBOOK MAKE THE MOST OF SUMMER! COME SEE GAIL, KARLA THE PUPPY AND THE GANG AT THE GABBA TODAY

DETAILS & THINGS

WHERE TO PICK SMORGASBOARDER UP Quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafes on the coast of Queensland,

New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia and Tasmania. For a full list of distributors, visit the directory in the back of the mag or just get to your local surf shop and talk to some real people, in the flesh. If you see a local store advertising, please support them! They’ll also have the lion’s share of mags in your area. smorgasboarder is published six times a year.

CAN’T GET THERE? SUBSCRIBE

If you can’t get to a store, have smorgasboarder delivered to your door. The mag’s still free, but Australia Post need to get paid.

$18 IN AUSTRALIA GETS YOU SIX EDITIONS.

THE COVER SHOT Bluesnapper’s Alex Marks catches Northern Beaches local Tim Taplin taking time out from his day-job of designing for O’Neill. For more on Alex, see Page 146.

BOYS & GIRLS OF SMORGASBOARDER LOTS OF STUFF & ADVERTISING Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 345 201 SYDNEY STUFF Ben Horvath ben@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 362 788 LOTS OF STUFF & DESIGN Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au 0400 875 884 SOUTH AUSTRALIAN STUFF James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au 0410 175 552 STUFF, ACCOUNTS & EVERYTHING ELSE Louise Gough advertising@smorgasboarder.com.au MORE DESIGN STUFF: Helen Chapman & Dean Slockee PROOFING, TEST STUFF & STUNTS: Gus Brown

CONTRIBUTORS

Particular thanks to Aimee Sics, Garth Caldwell, Richard Kotch, Jordie Brown, Simon Kettle, Matt Mullens, Joel Larwood, Ben Roberts, Pat Quirk, Clayton Beatty, Alistair Lawson, Matthew Cheetham and Michael Jahn for their writing talent in this edition and Alex Marks, Joel Coleman, Ian Bird, Jules Phillips, Matt Dunbar, Mark ‘Crumpet’ Taylor, James McMillan, Grant Molony, Colin Sakoff, Danicia Olsson, Ian Morton and all the amazing reader talent for the great surf photos to drool over.

Ideas & submissions: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au

WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission. We print with Pep Central and Craft Inprint Group, an environmentally aware and committed printer whose business is founded upon the principles of minimising waste and maximising recycling. Nice work.

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INSIDE THIS ISSUE

28 XMAS GIFT GUIDE Cool ideas for under the Christmas tree for that special surfer

INLAND EXPLORER One young SUPer prepares to paddle four huge rivers

FEATURE INTERVIEW

42 CAUGHT INSIDE

We chat to the star of the scariest surf movie you’re likely to see

52 SURVIVOR SPEAKS It’s one year since a devastating tsunami hit the Mentawai Islands

CENTRAL SNAPS

Read all about Grant Molony, Central Coast surf photographer

88 FREE THINKERS

We take the road less travelled with some leftfield surf innovators

ALL THE USUAL BITS THE LATEST

14 Feedback & Reader Photos 26 News & Community 60 Everyday locals and their tales

TRAVEL

104 Hidden gems of Padang 112 Sydney’s Northern Beaches

GEAR

153 Getting art onto surfboards 152 Over 100 new board designs! 180 Classic skateboards 190 Test everything

CLOSEOUT

195 A bit of history 202 Fitness & training 207 Relax

WOO! HOO

182

GOING SIDEWAYS

196

SUMMER FASHION

SKATEBOARD FEATURE: The philosophy of flying down a hill on wheels

Look sharp: Summer’s here, so get a heads up on some new gear.

Up, up and not away!!! A little less Superman and a bit more super entertaining - this is what happens when you wax up your stick with a bar of soap. No, he didn’t land it. This classic sequence captured by Chris Munro. See more of his snaps at www.redhotshotz.com

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JAYSCHMITZERPHOTO

SHELLHARBOUR SURF & SKATE PROVIDING SMILE GENERATING EQUIPMENT.

SURFERS DETAILS BOARD // BROWN DOGG TADPOLE DECKGRIP // DAKINE & CREATURES FIN SYSTEM // FCS LEG ROPE // OCEAN & EARTH WETSUIT // WEST & XCEL HEADGEAR // GATH TIMEKEEPING // NIXON CURRENT MENTAL STATE // LATE FOR WORK AND AT THIS POINT DOESN’T CARE.

SHELLHARBOUR SURF & SKATE // Addison Street, Shellharbour Village NSW // PHONE: 02 4295 3373 10

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YES, IT’S THAT TIME AGAIN! It’s almost Christmas and we’re excited. That means it’s almost time off with friends and family. It means it’s almost time to go to the beach during the middle of the week without having to pull a sickie. It’s almost time to go camping out in the middle of nowhere to surf that little hidden spot only you and your dad know about. The place he took you to as a kid and you’ve been to every Christmas since, and the place you’ll take your kids to when they’re old enough to join their dad too. Best of all though, it means it’s almost time for everyone to get into the spirit of giving and you know we love delivering on that. During this past year we’ve read your emails, spoken to you on the phone and chatted to you in surf stores along the coast. We’ve listened to what you’ve enjoyed and what you want to see more of. So this edition, we’ve given more space than ever to the surfboard and shaper profile pages, to showcase the art and work of over fifty independent Australian shapers and provide you with a huge guide to help plan your own Christmas pressie. We’re also giving you more interviews with everyday surfers like yourself. We’re giving you more on surfboard design. And we’re giving you more reading than ever before in our biggest edition so far. But we’re not big-upping ourselves in any way. The most important thing we have to give is thanks. To you, to the writers and photographers and to the hardworking small businesses that are supporting us and making it possible. Support these guys - your local businesses! If you love getting this mag, then let them know you’ve seen them in here. Without them, we wouldn’t be able to do this for you.

As to smorgasboarder, we’ve finally done some t-shirts! Check them out in the Christmas Gift Ideas on page 28. If you like ‘em, order them at our website. At 30 bucks they make great Christmas gifts, as does a subscription - the gift that keeps giving. Finally, we’re pleased to say that our smorgasboarder Christmas party won’t have to be just me, Dave and a Red Rooster chicken this year. Over the past few months, Louise - our Girl Friday - has really become a permanent fixture around the office. She keeps us in coffee and keeps us organised when we’ve worked through yet another night on deadline. Plus, we’ve been very fortunate to have a further helping hand from James Ellis and Ben Horvath with distribution, advertising and editorial - James in South Australia and Ben in Sydney’s surrounds. James is a down-to-earth, proud crow-eater who’s travelled, resided and surfed all states of Australia and NZ. He freelances for various outfits, whilst running two personal ventures. Ben is a committed Sydney surfer with a background in surf media. Formerly editor of Coastalwatch.com, he published Underground Surf Magazine, has written for a host of surf mags and still provides daily surf reports for The Telegraph and Coastalwatch. But for now, enjoy your two months worth of free reading and make the most of the lead up to Christmas. We wish you and your families all the best and hope you all get a few good waves along the way too!

Mark

MAIN: James Ellis, screaming down the line in SA INSET: Ben Horvath in the shade. Photo: Bouma july/aug 2011

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LADIES FIRST

e l t t Li . s M tile a s r e V WE LOVE NIKKI. NOT CONTENT WITH ONE BOARD, SHE’S GAME TO GIVE IT ALL A GO - SURFING, SKATING, SANDBOARDING... THE WORKS. WORDS: PETER HOGG Nikki-Rose Quinlan is a young lady that is as talented on a board as she is beautiful in her part-time job as a model for Hive Swimwear.

“ I LIKE THE BEACH BUT I LOVE THE CEMENT MORE!” While she tears it up on pretty much any board you give her, she has some serious aspirations to be a contender in major streetstyle skateboard competitions in Australia. Nikki-Rose lives and breathes skating. She loves the flow of skateboarding and loves skate culture. After all, skating is now her life.

Nikki-Rose started skateboarding 5 years ago at the age of 17 and she quickly became a regular at the Coolum Beach skatepark. Having skills in the water too, she found herself modelling bikinis for Hive Swimwear, who specialise in functional swimwear ‘that stays on.’ “I really enjoy working with Hive. I have been part of their action and lifestyle imagery since 2005. I’m a clean-cut person with an appreciation for fitness, health and fun, which fits in well with them. Just recently we had a great shoot where I had to sandboard and ride a FIIK electric skateboard on the beach... like a Mad Max movie scene. The video is on youtube, and it’s hot.”

Nikki-Rose - also a team rider for the Boardstore - has big plans for 2012. “I want to be more competitive in major Aussie comps including Just Another Female Contest in Melbourne. I know that I have to progress my repertoire. Over the next few months I will move to the Gold Coast and master some bigger spins and clean front and back-side airs.” It must be daunting dropping into some of those big bowls? “My mental skill set is getting better. I can put fear aside by focussing on the task at hand. In saying this, I have come unstuck a few times as all skaters do. Hard work and perseverance has helped me overcome my injuries. There is

nothing better than doing a well-executed, difficult trick. It keeps me going.” What do you do in your down time? “When I take a break from skating I do like to surf. It’s good crosstraining. I also have to spend some time on my academic interests involving animal sciences.” Keep an eye out for Nikki-Rose at upcoming skate comps - we’re sure you’ll find her mastering those big airs she after.

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Nikki shows off her many skills on just about every board you can think of, both as a representative for Boardstore (above) and a model for Hive Swimwear. www.hiveswimwear.com www.boardstore.com.au

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SURFECTION • MICKEY RAT SURF • SHOP TAHITI • SURFRIDER TAHITI • SALTWATER WINE • MARINE CORAIL • EVOLUTION • ATOLL ADVENTURES • SAVAII SURFARIS • LOCAL MOTION • GOLDEN BREED • GLOBAL SURFTAG • FAITH • SALTWATER SURF SCHOOL • TRENT MUNRO SURF • ACADEMY • CHEYNE HORAN SURF SCHOOL • LEE WINKLER SURF SCHOOL • SOULRIDER SURF SCHOOL • SURF CAMP AUSTRALIA • MARGARET RIVER SURF SCHOOL • PORT STEPHENS SURF SCHOOL • ASP EVENTS • LE-BA BOARDRIDERS • BAR BEACH BOARDRIDERS • MERIMBULA BOARDRIDERS • YURAYGIR BOARDRIDERS • ALBANY BOARDRIDERS • SCOTT HEAD BOARDRIDERS • HALF TIDE BOARDRIDERS • EVANS HEAD LONGBOARDERS • NSW LONGBOARDERS • LENNOX LONGBOARDERS • BALLINA MALIBU

Get your personalised gear printed by Triple-X today!

WINN

XXX! MOMENT

win a terrific Share your Triple X moment and X Wetsuits, le Trip from suit ng Spri -Arm Long r. wea ever will you uit The hottest wets letters@smorgasboarder.com.au

HIGH FLYING ROOF SURFING! “Not in the ocean I know, but going about my day job of laying a hot colorbond roof one arvo, we had a stack of loose sheets sitting on the roof. Yes, I knew not to walk on them, but one clumsy step I found myself surfing a sheet down the face of the roof for a metre or so, until it smashed into the spouting and in turn I splattered into the hand rail. All’s well that ends well I say.” Congrats to Scott Terry of St. Andrews Beach, Victoria!

GOOD MATES, GOOD TIMES Victorian surfer Ken Northwood dropped us a line to let us know how much he loved the mag and appreciated seeing everday people in the pages. At the same time he sent along a photo of him and some long-time mates. So Ken, hopefully you enjoy the pic of these everyday blokes just as much...

HERE

RASHIES

info@triple-X.com.au

1300 483 634 WWW.TRIPLE-X.COM.AU

nov/dec 2011

GET FREEBIES

Ken scores himself some free gear for his photo and note! Get some for yourself simply by sending in your thoughts and pics to: letters@smorgasboarder.com.au

“Here’s a photo of school/uni mates who have been surfing for more than 40 years. From left to right, Wayne (is Ken Northwood), Midge (is Mike McraeWilliams) and The Animal (is John Lesser). “All the boards were either made by, or bought from Zak Surfboards (in Thornbury, Melbourne) and in the photo we had just finished a session at Lorne Point. We hope to surf into our 70’s. Ken Northwood, Fairfield

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This is what Straddie is all about! Alex DePaoli in the barrel, Photo: Dan Priori

READER PICS

Big Wave

All your surf gear under one roof Islantis are stockists of all the major surf brands including surfboards by Al Merrick, Lost and Islantis.

This October saw the innaugural run of a brand new surfing festival in the picturesque town of Byron Bay. The look on Mark Sharp’s face pretty much tells the tale of the fun that was had. PHOTO: Luke Hendel For more action from the Byron Bay Festival of Surfing, flip to Page 207 and 208

Stay, surf, shop and dine at the

Huge range of gear for hire surfboardboards, SUPs, kayaks, softboards, wetties and bikes

P: 03 5956 7553 E: info@islantis.com.au

DAILY SURF REPORTS www.islantis.com.au

Come overseas from $30/night*

Studio suites and flashpackers The Island is brand new, ecofriendly accommodation with state-of-the-art facilities and plenty of open space for relaxation, dining and fun.

P: 03 5956 6123

E: info@theislandaccommodation.com.au

BOOK ONLINE AT www.theislandaccommodation.com.au

The Big Wave Complex 10 - 12 Phillip Island Tourist Road Phillip Island, 3925, Victoria, Australia

surf shop • surf school • accommodation • cafe 18

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READER PICS nov/dec 2011

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A Victorian city screamer. Wettie or not, doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t this just make you wish you were there? Photo: Robyn Elliott

READER PICS

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Tully St John applies some hairspray in Noosa. Photo: Matt Donnelly

READER PICS

l ... ina ny rig a eo p n m ly o on Co

l is ve ere Th Tra

rf Su nov/dec 2011

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NEWS THIS IS THE

WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND OUR SIDE OF THE COAST facebook.com/smorgasboarder

twitter.com/smorgasboarder

Photo: Bruce Usher

editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au

SYDNEY - SURF CITY MUSEUM EXHIBITION

Long before Bondi was world famous and Sydney’s beaches were synonymous with boardies, barrels and breaks, it was surf bathing, beach inspectors and timber paddleboards that ruled the surf and sand. Surf City, a new exhibition at the Museum of Sydney until March 2012, traces the rise of Sydney’s surf scene from its early days that pushed the boundaries of the Australian way of life, to a national obsession that redefined the sport worldwide, cultivating international legends and a multi-billion dollar industry.

Surf City: Getting Radical in the 50s, 60s & 70s is open until 18 March 2012 at Museum of Sydney, corner Bridge & Phillip Streets Sydney, daily 9.30am – 5pm, Call 02 9251 5988 or see hht.net.au. General $10, concession $5, family $20.

NEW WOLF DEN

Photos: Joel Coleman/ Saltmotion

Raised By Wolves have moved into bigger, stylish premises pretty much across the road from the old HQ. The new address is shop 3, 8-10 Waratah St Mona Vale. Their Old Barrenjoey Rd Avalon store is still powering as well. If you can’t get there in person, suss out their online store at www.raisedbywolves.com.au

ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY

A big thanks to Tom Gell and the crew at Patagonia for the invitation to the launch of their new store in Bathurst St, Sydney. It was a fun night, most certainly, and the store looked the goods. Best of luck for the future. With such a great team and quality gear we are sure it will be a success. nov/dec 2011

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Nightjar Markets

HULL RIPPERS

I LOVE THE NIGHTLIFE

Torquay’s Nightjar Night Markets are on again every Thursday from 4-10pm this January. The beloved project of three local residents keen to bring locals and holiday makers alike together for some serious entertainment and fun, attracted over 4,000 people earlier this year. It’s a true artisans market with a festival vibe bringing together local producers, emerging designers, contemporary artists, food stalls, bar featuring local beers and wines, live music, children’s interactive environmental area... Get there. By the ocean, along Spring Creek. www.nightjarmarket.com.au

SURF TRIP REWARDS

If you’re planning to head north for a bit of a surf and some rest prior to the busy festive season you could be in the running for a Ford Escape. If you book two or more nights on the Sunshine Coast prior to Dec 9 you can go in the draw at www.sunshinecoastspringescape.com.au

Endless progression. Jan Bruun // 8’9 Ripper // pic: Will Burgess

HULL RIPPERS Paddle Surf Hawaii’s new Hull Rippers take Standup Paddle Surfing to new levels. The design increases paddling speed and maneuverability. The combination of the hull bottom and chined rails allows for deeper, smoother, snappier turns. If you want to charge and take your standup surfing to another level, the Paddle Surf Hawaii, Hull Rippers will take you there. HULL ALL ROUNDERS If you are into cruising and catching small waves the Hull All rounder (Hull AA) is a balanced blend of stability, increased paddling speed and small wave performance. RR $995 Check them out your local Paddle Surf Hawaii Dealer For your local dealer: Fluid Distribution // 0414 542 225 www.paddlesurfhawaii.com.au

VINTAGE SURF AUCTION

Mick Mock’s renowned vintage surfboard and memorabilia auction is on Sunday Nov 27 from 10.30am sharp. Featured are ‘60s longboards, ‘70s single fins and twin fins, plus vintage skateboards and a ton of other surf memorabilia. Public viewing 3-5pm on Sat Nov 26 and 9-10am, Sunday, November 27. The venue is the Harbord Diggers Club.

BEAT THE BOREDOM

Boardom is now Shellharbour Surf & Skate. No longer a ho-hum surf clothing shop, the new owner Mark O’Sullivan has turned it into a real surf store and has ordered in a heap of new gear. Mark says, ”We’re now a surf store run by surfers. We have some great inhouse shortboards shaped by Ben Swan (cool name incidentally, no relation) and some old school classics by Brown Dogg with beautiful resin tints.“ Check it out at 1/16B Addison St, Shellharbour. Call 02 4295 3373

NEW WAVE

Northern Beaches based surf travel specialists The Perfect Wave moved into slick new premises at 3/20 West St, Brookvale. Director Jamie Gray said, “We are now offering a new surfing experience, making planning your trip as comfortable and stress free as possible from the minute you walk into our new HQ. You can view vids of all of our destinations on the big screen on a big comfy lounge with your partner or surf buddies and chat with an experienced surf travel agent.” www.theperfectwave.com.au

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FIlm Still: Simon ‘Shagga’ Saffigna

BIGGEST WAVES EVER CAUGHT ON FILM, UNCUT

Caloundra RSL are screening uncut footage of the monstrous swell that hit Teahupoo in August of this year. To catch a sneak peek, check out Simon ‘Shagga’ Saffigna’s website at www.shaggadelic.com.au. Unbelievable! December 16 @ 7pm. Kids $5. Adults $10. Tickets on the door.

FIND A NEW VOICE

At their new store at Shop 3/11 Hilton Terrace, Noosaville/Tewantin. Stu has some great surf gear for kids through to mens at affordable prices. Check out their gear online at www.voiceinc.com.au

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN THE ONLINE WORLD SMOOTH NEW SITE Smoothstar has a new website and a whole host of very sexy new skateboards. Try out a SmoothStar and you will see why we are such big fans. No other skateboard that simulates surfing we have tried to date can compete for price and quality. www.smoothstar.com.au BUY ONLINE, WIN A SUP As part of the launch of their cracking new website, Zak and the boys from Zak Surfboards in Melbourne are giving away a brand new SUP and clothing package valued at over $1000. Entry to the giveaway is open to the first 200 online sales. A 1 in 200 chance of winning is pretty good odds. www.zaksurfboards.com NEW BASE FOR POWER Powerbase Fins have revamped their website so check it out if you are interested in finding out more about this revolutionary superlight fin system that replicates glassed-in fins. The fins popularity has gone through the roof as Owen Wright’s star continues to rise. www.powerbase.com.au SLICE OF MANLY ONLINE The world famous Manly Longboarding Co has a new online site making it even easier to get your hands on some iconic Manly t-shirts, hoodies, towels and wetshirts. They also have a new vintage and kids range. Check it out. www.manlylongboard.com YOU FIIKIN BEAUTY FIIK Electric Skateboards have a new website showcasing their electronic skateboards in a real user friendly manner with more tech specs and details. Also previewed are some upcoming new board designs. www.fiikskateboards.com

FREE STUFF!

We have a box of Surfing DVDs to give away! In the spirit of free things, Johnny Abegg - last edition’s cover-model - kindly handed over his last copies of On Credit, his personal journey of running up ridiculous bills over four credit cards, chasing the dream of becoming a pro surfer. The first 30 or so new subscribers score themselves a copy. Thanks Johnny! Check out his other films online: johnnyabegg.wordpress.com SUBSCRIBE FOR ONLY $18 AT WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU nov/dec 2011

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XMAS GIFT GUIDE

SANTA’S SURFING SACK So simple yet so clever. Waterproof protection for your valuables & beach gear. Baby Wasp $25. King Wasp $35. Bag combo $50.

S A XM FT GI AS E D I

www.waspbags.com.au

ESE UT TH TOCKING O K C CHE TIONAL S RFERS. U A SENS RS FOR S E F ta STUF an

PICTURE PERFECT GoPro HD Hero2 is small, light and powerful, capturing full 170º wide angle 1080p video & 11 megapixel photos at a rate of 10 photos per sec! From $300 surfcomposites.com.au

PADDLE WITH POWER Get you wave count up! H2Odyssey webbed gloves with 2mm shark skin palms and webbed fingers from See You Out There. $29.95. www.seeyououtthere.com.au 28

ISLAND FEVER

The latest in their extensive range of maximum performance sunscreen, lotion and spray is the clear gel stick application. Non-irritant, non greasy, 4 hour water & sweat resistant. SPF 30+ Clear Gel Stick RRP $9.95 www.islandtribe.com.au

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photo: Shane Newman

a Show your love with tee e Fre is rf Su w ne brand . ge sta $30 + po Annual home delivery ,6 to smorgasboarder $18 editions. Subscribe for at Do it all online m.au smorgasboarder.co

www.smorgasboarder.com.au

WEAR IT OUT!

WHERE’S WALLY? Behind the counter at Wally’s Water Gallery, selling amazing recycled furniture and other unique pieces to decorate your beach house. And it’s astonishingly affordable. 6 Lorraine Ave, Marcoola Beach. 07 5448 8560. sep/oct 2011

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XMAS GIFT GUIDE

D! mber surfboard racrks, N A T S A TAKE t recycled ti akes them fo

an jus also m oards, skis More th Board Racks b y s, wake cks.com a B rd wboa Byron ra o n d r s , a s o b y ard skatebo itars. byronba gu ...even

IN THE BAG

Hand-made, Auss ie cow leather laptop bags that Grant personally ma kes himself on cold, lonely wintersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; days in Torquay. tigerfish.com.au

SUN STOPPERS

GOOFING AROUND

...from Protecsun. These hats and caps are designed to stay on when you are going off. They stay on even when duck-diving. Hat or cap $39.95 www.protecsun.com.au

More fun than a barrel of monkeys and a great way to improve your balance and hone your surf skills on land. Price $189 www.goofboard.com

SIESTA TIME! Traditional, handcrafted furniture made from recycled timbers that will stand the test of time. Byron Bay Recycled Timber Furniture. King size single day bed with marine vinyl outdoor weatherproof mattress. From $950. www.byronbayfurniture.com 30

nov/dec 2011

KANU DO IT?

Traversing the co untryside strapping down pallets of smorgasboard er and boards to test makes us well placed to judge these st ainless steel reinforced lockab le straps as sturdy, strong an d secure. From $79.95 www.kan ulock.com

photo: Shane Newman

RACK IT UP AT RONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S Surfboard racks for your bike. Padded metal frames available only in black. Price $159.95 www.ronwadesurfboards.com.au Mob: 0410 443 776

TIME TO GET TOIGHT!

Increase your paddle fitness, improve your core, strength & power, mobility & flexibility, balanceâ&#x20AC;Ś Basically, become like us. Toight toitans of the Toubes. Get started with a free online lesson. totalsurfingfitness.com

SKATING MEMORABILIA&S

the G The history of mpiled co , am te skate h. Trinity by Jim Goodric the Boardstore or n Distributio r Christmas. just in time fo ution.com.au trinitydistrib store.com.au www.board

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LE SURFING, THE NEW MANCE, SHORTBOARD STY DESIGNED FOR HIGH PERFOR SUP DESIGN THAT’S PART LL RIPPER (8’9” - 9’11”) IS A PADDLE SURF HAWAII HU . WE SPEAK WITH THE T TRADITIONAL INSPIRATION PAR D AN GY OLO HN TEC W NE BILL WARD - AS II - BLANE CHAMBERS AND WA HA RF SU LE DD PA M BOYS FRO S: DAVE SWAN , ANDREW ALLEN. WORD WELL AS LOCAL DISTRIBUTOR

RIP LIKE A HULLMAN We’re always keen to showcase new innovations in all areas of surfing. We recently came across the Hull Ripper, which seems to be an exciting development in the SUP arena. With our interest already piqued, thanks to the resurgence in hulls in surfboard design with guys like Thomas Bexon, Ken Reimers, Jesse Watson and others revitalising the concept within a modern context, we were curious to find out what this particular design was all about. SB: WHAT ARE THE GUIDING PRINCIPLES OF MODERN DAY STAND UP PADDLEBOARD DESIGN? Andrew Allen: Basically most boards are either designed for glide and paddling speed or surf performance. The Hull Ripper design combines two variables that are usually at odds with each other. WHAT IS THE MAIN INSPIRATION BEHIND THE HULL RIPPER DESIGN? Bill Ward: The Hull Ripper design was initially born from a desire to

make better, faster, down-wind paddle boards...... however, once we started riding waves on these boards we quickly came to realise they were also very well suited for surfing waves. WHAT MAKES IT SO REVOLUTIONARY? Bill: The hull bottom design and the bevelled or raised rails are nothing new to surfboard design. However, combining the two in a stand up paddle surfboard along with outline, rocker, and foil have given new life to the board’s performance. We have spent countless hours on R&D to fine-tune this design specifically for high performance stand up paddle surfing. Although a board may be 29 ½” wide, you are only planing on 24-25”, therefore you have less surface area and more speed. When you go into a top turn or cutback, because the rail is already raised, it allows for a smoother more dramatic transition, which equates to

deeper, harder carving cutbacks. When you look at pics of surfers riding a Hull Ripper compared to a flat bottom board it’s easy to see how the rail is more deeply buried. Blane Chambers: Because of the entry it allows you to travel through the water a lot quicker and because you are planing off a narrower bottom, you are able to lay it over and put a lot of power into you turns. Without a doubt it is the fastest board for its size that still surfs the way it does. TALK US THROUGH THE PERFORMANCE CHARACTERISTICS OF THE BOARD? Bill: The Hull Ripper design allows for faster paddling and makes catching waves easier. Many of those who have surfed these boards feel like they paddle 6 inches to 1 foot longer than the actual length, yet surf 6” to 1 foot shorter than the actual length.

trim. Then, once at the end of the section, you can just lay into it. This board carves unbelievably for its size. IS IT DESIGNED FOR A SPECIFIC STYLE OF SURFER? Bill: The Hull Ripper is a high performance stand up paddleboard, period. The design requires and demands that the board be ridden strictly off the tail for high performance, progressive, shortboard style surfing. If you prefer nose riding or forward trim type surfing on a board, we have other boards for you. The Hull Ripper is not designed for that type of surfing. This design is strictly for those who want to blast the lip and do hard carving cutbacks just like you would with traditional shortboard surfing. For more information, visit www.paddlesurfhawaii.com

Blane: This board is really fast. It has got that volume where you can fly along in dead sections and

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MAIN: Hawaiian Noah Yap tucks into a turn on the Hull Ripper. Photo: Byron Yap OPPOSITE INSET: The rounded bottom of the board.

LATEST: & GREATEST

COMMUNITY

INTREPID INLAND EXPLORER WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN

PHOTOS: DANICIA OLSSON.

One man. No support crew. One Stand Up Paddle board. No support boat.Over 6,000km. We’re always fascinated by people who tackle ridiculously oversized ideas, from little guys taking on the establishment, to lone explorers taking on a bit of Mother Nature. Here’s one. Tommy Jacobson from the very inland town of Murrumbateman, NSW - halfway between Yass and Canberra, in fact - is about to embark on a pretty sizeable expedition, and that is to stand up paddle the four longest rivers in Australia. Taking on one river every four months, over the next year and a half he plans to stick a paddle in the water of the Murray, the Murrumbidgee, the Darling and the Lachlan, with a combined distance equivalent

to almost a roundtrip between Brisbane and Perth. Why? Because they’re there. “I like to challenge myself,” Tommy says. “The first thing I wanted to do was to see how far I could get in a day. Then I started to plan to do a few rivers around my house and finally looked at the bigger picture and decided to paddle the top seven rivers in Australia.” Since that initial idea, Tommy crossed off Cooper Creek as well as the Flinders and Diamantina rivers because of their snappy inhabitants. Fortunately the longest four don’t share the same croc population, so he can get out and enjoy the trip without fear of losing something important - like a leg.

Being a fan of river paddling myself, I was curious why Tommy enjoyed it so much. “It’s the environment. Up around here, near the Alpine region, we’ve got crystal clear water coming off the Snowys, little waterfalls on the side, canyons... It’s just good to be out there and it’s a good way to travel you’re elevated because you’re standing up, so you get to take it all in.”

conservation and skin cancer prevention. He’s been fortunate enough to have a number of sponsors like Carve, Go Pro, Ocean & Earth and more jump on board - including Kahuna Creations - the friendly Street SUP folks… “Kahuna jumped on pretty much straight away, which was great.” he says. “It’s really good for my preparation.

Along his journey, Tommy aims to raise awareness and funds for wildlife

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NAME: Tommy Jacobson AGE: 19 HOME: Murrumbateman, NSW HEIGHT: 177cm WEIGHT: 69kg STANCE: Natural

THE RIVERS MURRAY RIVER

(NSW/SA) 2,375 kilometers

MURRUMBIDGEE RIVER

(NSW/ACT) 1,485 kilometers

DARLING RIVER

(NSW) 1,472 kilometers

LACHLAN RIVER

(NSW) 1,339 kilometers I usually longboard every day, and since Kahuna sent some sticks up, I’ve been doing about 10km a day, going out and doing a big lap of the town every morning. “It’s been a pretty big part of my training, not only for fitness and getting my endurance built up, but also for technique and style. You don’t have to focus on the water, so you can really concentrate on your stroke, the right speed, the right

pace... It’s different to being on water, but it’s helped a lot.” Tommy’s trip kicks off with the first 400km of the Murrumbidgee river at the end of November. If you happen to be an avid flatwater SUP-er yourself, there’s an open invitation to take part in the adventure. “If anyone’s keen to join me on the expedition, do a few kms or a couple of days, it would be great just to have a bit of company and have someone experience what I’m going through.”

Follow Tommy’s trip on Facebook through the smorgasboarder page at www.facebook.com/ smorgasboarder and Tommy’s official page at: www. facebook.com/ TommyJacobsonOfficalPage For more on Tommy and the trip, visit his website: www.tommyjacobson.com (Check out his gear out overleaf)

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PICK UP STICKS: TOMMY’S TRAINING The SUPing doesn’t ever have to stop when you have a Kahuna Big Stick and a longboard to roll around on. And hell, why just have a normal longboard to roll around on when you can build yourself an 8ft road roller for an authentic street SUP experience? Including the giant stroke of genius above, Tommy talks us through his quiver of land-boards. ABOVE: 8’ x 1’ 5” Treated pine spine with marine ply deck. “It’s taken plenty of test boards to get the right flex-to-length ratio. I’ve snapped a fair few on the way. Using my Magellan Gps I’ve tracked over 50kmph. It was very comfortable at that speed and the flex absorbs all the bumps and rocks. LEFT TO RIGHT: No-name bamboo 6-ply layup 41”, Dashboard Wolf Prowler 36”, Dashboard Bear 36” and a 9-ply No-name Dropdown 40”. The Kahuna sticks are 2 x Adjustable Moko Big Sticks, a regular Big Stick 5’6” and - Tommy’s favourite - the Big Stick Bamboo 6’0”.

“This is a great all round quiver for street SUPing everywhere. I always keep a board and an adjustable big stick in my car in case I get the urge to go for a skate when I’m at University or at my job at Adrenalin Boardstore. My personal favourite combo at the moment is the Dashboard Bear and the bamboo Big Stick - great fun and very smooth for trips over 20km.” 36

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THE LAST BASTION

This is one of surfing’s last bastions, literally, in more ways than one. Mallacoota, on the far eastern corner of Victoria is a surfing outpost surrounded by Croajingolong National Park and the Cape Howe and Point Hicks Marine National Parks. To say it is a majestic, pristine natural environment would be an understatement. As with many small towns dotted along our coastline, the surfers here are passionate, hardcore and committed. When plans first arose over a generation ago to mess with Mallacoota’s class break by building a 130m breakwall smack bang in the middle of it, there was an outcry amongst local surfers and members of the community.

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Those in favour argue recreational and professional fisherman and abalone divers require safe ocean access. The proposed council plan would provide 90% usability, which could possibly be described as overkill. Anyone familiar with this stretch of coast would know it lives up to its reputation as the Wilderness Coast. Perhaps greater dangers lie beyond a boat’s initial launch site when weather conditions are far from favourable – nature’s way of saying “Don’t go, Joe?” The alternative is to upgrade the existing boat ramp to meet Australian Standards for marine safety, at around a third of the council’s proposed project, retain the local beach, rockpools and native vegetation and allow surfing to continue at Bastion Point. Sounds like a pretty convincing argument. The future of Bastion Point lies in the balance with a government decision expected to be handed down prior to Christmas.

100 Railway St, Corrimal NSW 2518

(02) 4283 7196 38

Basically the proposed project, which won initial local and state government approval, entailed not only a rockwall but a causeway road on the beach leading to a new boat ramp, massive ongoing dredging and maintenance costs and what has been described by those opposed as a dubious economic case.

www.surfpit.com.au

To find out more about this issue go to the East Gippsland Shire Council site at www.egipps.vic.gov.au and www.savebastionpoint.org, where you can also lodge your objection to the proposed development.

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Surfboards, movies, art and memorabilia at the top of the hill in Yamba.

John O’Donoghue Photo: Gus Brown

Bastion Point, Mallacoota Photo: Vanessa Janss

Just a real surf shop...

PRODUCTIVE MEETING

GUS BROWN REPORTS!

FIGHT FOR LIFE A recent story that touched our hearts was that of Nick Duggan, a 34-year-old Sunshine Coast man who has been diagnosed with Coccidioidmycosis Meningitis. The fatality rate of this extremely rare fungal disease here in Australia is 100%. Nick contracted the disease whilst holidaying in San Diego via a dust spore that lodged in his lung. It has now penetrated Nick’s spine and developed in his brain. His wife of 11 years, Allison, and two young children, Jessi, 8, and Dakota, 5, have lost everything in including their business, car and soon, their home, in the fight for Nick’s life - an expensive process for what is apparently not a recongnised disease in Australia. The family has set up a website, www.millionto1.org to raise money to fund a trip to the US for specialist treatment. Sunshine Coast shaper Mark Pridmore of MORE Surfboards has donated a surfboard towards the cause. We wanted to highlight to our readers the continual good work done by shapers and members of the surf community, and to remind everyone of how special life is. The message certainly hits home when you have young kids yourself, as both Mark and I both do. Check out the website and show your support if possible.

The 9th Annual Boardmeeting was held over the first weekend of November at Kawana Beach on the Sunshine Coast. Although the conditions were pretty average with light onshore winds and 2 ft of swell, the competition was a blast. Event organisers were calling it the biggest Boardmeeting yet, with a record number of teams competing to raise funds to assist local disabled kids and their families. The event included a surfing competition (using the word competition loosely), an expression session, a SUP display and culminated in a surf gear and memorabilia auction. Newcomer to the Boardmeeting - wild man John O’Donoghue of Sabbath Surf in Bilinudgel, just north of Byron Bay, was a keen participant and supporter of the event. Johno donated a board for the charity auction. Word has it that Johno worked around the clock in the two days in the lead up to the event to finish his contribution and then headed up the coast for the 3-4 hour trip, after no sleep, to turn up less than a minute before the start of the first heat. He proudly displayed his 6’11” Lowrider - a stringerless Epoxy board with carbon fibre rails - which he reported was the “freshest” board in the auction. Nice one. The Boardmeeting is a regular event of the Sunshine Coast surfing calender so make sure you keep an eye out every November for the event. Congratulations to the organisers, sponsors and supporters for putting in their all for a real purpose and for yet another succesful year. www.theboardmeeting.org

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COMP ACTION

WORLD BEATERS

Regular readers of smorgasboarder will know we’re not really about surf comps. But once in a while, a competitive surf event comes along that truly stands out as a celebration of unique skill and forward-thinking judging criteria... An event that introduces us to faces of the future - tomorrow’s billboards and next week’s giants of surfing. Now, as converted followers of the WCCS - the World Championship of Crap Surfing held in Cornwall, UK - we are absolutely hanging out for a pair of signature Kenny Dixon high-performance boardies. NIGEL PENGELLY, FROM CORNWALL: “Persistent onshore drizzle, wind, fog and mushy surf made for ideal conditions for the 2011 World Championship of Crap Surfing. More than 50 self-confessed crap surfers descended onto Praa Sands for the event in a chance to win the coveted world title or steal a prize in one of the special award categories like Best Wipeout, Worst Wetsuit, Most Missed Wavesand Most Genuinely Upset Loser.

TOP: Proud winners from left to right, Suki Allday, Bill Bankes-Jones and Kenny Dixon ABOVE: New world champion Bill Bankes-Jones makes one of his many elegant ‘dismounts’ in his quest for crap surf glory. BELOW: Intrepid Kenny Dixon loses control for three extra points in his late surge to third place in the WCCS. PHOTOS BY JULIAN PERROTT.

Organiser and BBC Radio 6 resident poet Murray Lachlan Young said: “It is a contest that awards merit for the least achievement from the most effort. The Cornish surf is a cruel mistress and some very aspiring surfers were made to look absolutely crap this year.” More than 200 spectators were entertained by the comical antics, presided over by a panel of keen, experienced judges that included a woman’s surf instructor, a professional boxer and a window cleaner. Competitors were marked points for moves such as inadvertently doing something good or performing a magic moment of stupidity. Apart from the world titles and trophies, there were a variety of prizes donated by local and international surf businesses, breweries and a second hand furniture shop to be won. After five heats and the youth contest, nine finalists braved the worsening conditions as high tide approached.

The final was a hard-fought affair with some contestants struggling to get to the point where the waves broke. Spectacular falls from hapless initiates staggering around in the surf gave the judges plenty of scope for awarding points. Not only were the wave riding techniques under scrutiny, the attire of the contestants and surfboards used were also observed. One competitor chose a large cardboard box over a traditional surfboard and judges witnessed a rare - and possibly homemade - leopard-skin print wetsuit. Eventually, after much deliberation, theatre director Bill Bankes-Jones swept to success after displaying a series of elegant dismounts from his board. Suki Allday was the runner up after missing most of the waves she could have caught while Kenny Dixon won third position with a fine display of appalling board control. Bill, speaking from the champions podium said: “I’m speechless. That’s all I have to say other than it’s been fun and I’ll be back to defend a title that rightly belongs to me next year.” Competitors and spectators were entertained at The Crap Surfers Ball that evening.” We anxiously await next year’s glorious clash of these titans of the surf. Show support at www.crapsurfer.com

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ING CRITICAL BEN OXENBOULD IS WINN PERFORMANCE AS ACCLAIM FOR HIS CHILLING ND’ BULL, IN THE NEW PSYCHOTIC SURFING ‘LEGE UGHT INSIDE. AND AUSTRALIAN THRILLER CA ANCE IS NOTHING RIGHTLY SO - HIS PERFORM IN WHAT IS SURE TO SHORT OF PHENOMENAL, CLASSIC. BECOME A MODERN CULT und a group of surfers CAUGHT INSIDE centres aro s to a secluded, on the surf charter of their live ly, one of them brings tropical surf spot. Unfortunate tear apart the male along the one thing that can ng woman. The boys’ cameraderie: a very foxy, you f to the single female attention turns from the sur ning a dream surfari into and all hell breaks loose, tur ha male takes control. a fight for survival as the alp INTERVIEW BY DAVE SWAN

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TOP: The Maldives offered up the perfect backdrop for the tense tale. ABOVE: Sam, played by Daisy Betts is dangerously beautiful. BELOW: Peter Phelps as Skipper Joe tries to break up the bullfight on the beach.

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LATEST: INTERVIEW I’m on a mid-afternoon call. As casual as you please, it’s Ben Oxenbould ringing me back to discuss his latest film. He’s just so incredibly down-to-earth, within seconds I feel like I am talking to a mate. You may know Ben from films such as Black Water or as far back as his first feature film, Fatty Finn, which he did at the age of nine. He has starred in numerous theatre productions, television shows such as Hey Dad, E-Street, Rafferty Rules and can lay claim to some truly hilarious skits from four series of Comedy Inc. But his gripping performance in Caught Inside is a very different plate of sushi, with the unhinged Bull a world away from the feelgood schoolboy antics of Fatty. Produced on next to no budget, with only the most essential of crew and not a surfdouble in sight, the film is a gritty, psychological thriller packed with social commentary, black comedy and a boatload of tension. DAVE: I must admit Ben, I’m far from a film critic but your performance was nothing short of brilliant. It completely blew me away. In all honesty, it scared the absolute crap out of me. BEN: That’s good… I have to say, when I went to some of the openings and afterwards we had question-and-answer sessions, the reactions from a really diverse demographic of people has been amazing. People have just been coming up to me saying,

“Nightmares… I am going to have nightmares” and then they just walk away. It is good to see the movie had the desired effect on you. (Laughs) DAVE: In your own words, can you explain what the movie is all about? BEN: I guess for me, my take on the whole issue is there are certain basic rules and regulations in life and when we start to underplay, or undermine them, things can turn to shit – they are there for a reason. Each person needs to take responsibility for their own actions and each person needs to understand how their actions are going to play out with other people in their surrounds and their environment. A lot of the movie is talking about the monsters we create - taking responsibility for your actions and allowing yourself to still be yourself and not be moulded and shaped by convention. Those are the fundamental rules in life and society and the way we grace ourselves in front of others. Once you start to mess with those boundaries, things can get ugly and unwind. I am not saying my character’s behavior is acceptable. It’s certainly not. But what the movie is saying is “shit happens.” Face up to it and throw the mirror in front of it when it goes down. The feedback we have received so far has told us that people have seen these various themes

evolving – which is really beautiful, as it means it’s not just black and white, or two-dimensional. There is a lot more to it. DAVE: Your performance has been likened to Robert de Niro in Raging Bull, Robert Mitchum in the original Cape Fear and Eric Bana in Chopper. They are pretty big accolades. My question is, with such a convincing performance, do you have an inner psycho? You know, have you come unhinged or suffered from a bit of a nervous twitch at some stage? BEN: I reckon everybody does and I just managed to find a more direct path to tap into it, I think. It’s the power of observation. You know, observing people like that. I was always one of those kids who needed to find out stuff. If someone said, “Don’t touch that, it’s hot!” I would have to put my hand on it and find out for myself. It is the same with people. You come across that guy. He might be in the playground or in the pub or out in the surf. You try to work out ways of quietly getting away from him. But I would just sit and observe and try to find out what makes him tick. I think that kind of opened up the pathway to tap into the inner psycho. DAVE: Director Adam Blaiklock had mentioned he based Bull’s character on one of his trips to Indo. I believe you also drew inspiration for the role from characters you had come across when surfing down the east coast?

“ SHIT HAPPENS. FACE UP TO IT AND THROW THE MIRROR IN FRONT OF IT WHEN IT GOES DOWN.”

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“ WHEN YOU START DROPPING IN ON PEOPLE OR HASSLING PEOPLE, IT’S NOT ON.”

BEN: Yes, absolutely – I found in most of those places I had surfed and stayed, you generally find one bloke who is the loudest guy in the pub or out in the surf. There was this one guy, when I was 15, that was an absolute terror. Everybody was scared of him. What I realised was, because they were all scared of him, they became his sycophants. He was great in their eyes and could do no wrong, whatever shitty things he did. They would always just laugh along. It was just nervous and uncomfortable laughter and I thought, “Why? How is he getting away with that? Why are they behaving like that?” And I realised that no one wants to deal with it. I reckon the demons in someone like that... The issues run so deep, they may never be resolved in a lifetime. With that said, I quizzed Ben on his take on localism, surf violence and wave rage. BEN: It’s funny, because I’m 42 now and grew up surfing with all my cousins at Avoca. They all taught me how to surf and how to handle the ocean. They were all surfers along with being champion surf lifesavers and swimmers. My uncle, Spike Jones, was the oldest lifeguard in NSW for a while there. 46

I gotta say, we had this fantastic camaraderie when we were growing up. Sometimes we would head down to Foresters or North Curly to surf and you would get that local element. I totally get that. I really, really do. I understand the need to preserve your environment and instinctively, as humans, we have that within us. However, growing up, I would also surf with older guys who were hippies, lived in the bush and all they wanted to do was surf. They didn’t care about convention. They didn’t want to get involved in the modern world. It was just about the waves. I got that part of it as well. It’s not a contradiction as such, but a paradox between surfing for the soul and surfing to carve and shred and push yourself… I got both worlds. Violence in the surf though is so out of place. The basic laws of surfing are there for a reason. They evolved naturally and organically for a reason. Everyone knows what the rules are. They are very, very simple and there are only a couple of them. If you adhere to them, everyone is going to get a good surf in. I’ve had times when I’ve been surfing with a group of guys that I had only just met in Indonesia, who were just unreal. These dudes were like, “Go mate!” I had never surfed this break

before and was a bit tentative, but they were talking me into waves and giving me waves. For me, that is what surfing is about. Everyone getting off and enjoying themselves. And when someone gets a long barrel or smacks a lip so hard that it rings through your ears and everyone goes, “woooahhh!!” It’s that feeling… That feeling is what I love about surfing. When you start to break those rules, when you start dropping in on people or hassling people, it’s not on. I have grown up in Sydney and I’ve paddled out to surf some beaches at times and gone, “Nah”, and paddled straight in. I knew I wasn’t going to get a wave. It’s not why I am out there. I don’t want to be out around bad energy. It turns out that behaviour in the water was an important factor in deciding the cast. Director Adam Blaiklock requested that second auditions took place in the water to ensure all actors were competent surfers. I asked Ben whether he suffered from any stage fright. Me personally, I would have been paranoid about falling and looking like a tool… BEN: Fortunately Adam and I have known each other for a long time. We were at primary school together

and in and out of each other’s lives probably for the last 35 years. He knew I surfed and I knew he surfed. He was pretty keen for me to play the role. He was just making sure the entire cast could surf. I completely understand why he did it and God bless him for doing it. There is nothing worse in my mind, when you have a close-up of an actor in the surf, they cut away and its supposed to be the same scene but you can tell one is shot in Costa Rica and the other one shot in Huntington, and he has no idea what he is doing. Adam just didn’t want that, otherwise anyone who surfs watching the film would go, “Argh!” It takes that element of reality away from it. Following the auditions the film was shot in just four straight weeks whilst on location in the Maldives. Ben described the shoot as pretty full on. BEN: We just literally just kept going, got up every morning, worked around the storms and kept plugging away. I think it added to it. We’re convinced CAUGHT INSIDE is destined to be a cult classic, with Bull quotes already flowing thick and fast in the office. (To avoid work, simply reply: “What? Are you gonna have a go at the Bull, are you?”)

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LEFT: A still from the movie - no surf doubles, just genuine surfing. ABOVE: A light moment during filming. TOP RIGHT: The shoestring budget made for creative camera work. RIGHT: Sushi à la Bull. FAR RIGHT: Cast and crew, hard at work.

“ ADAM REALLY BELIEVED IN THE STORY, AS DID I. WHEN I READ THE SCRIPT, I TOTALLY GOT WHERE HE WAS COMING FROM.” Seriously though, it was fantastic to watch an original screenplay instead of yet another remake. BEN: Kudos to Adam and Paul S Friedmann - the film’s producer - for getting it happening. Adam really believed in the story, as did I. When I read the script, I totally got where he was coming from. I loved that they had the balls to approach it. It’s a tough ask in this day and age. And they had bugger all budget. Adam just said, “Nah, I wanna do it.” We have had the most incredible reviews saying Bull is a “fully formed character.” I didn’t want people to walk out of the cinema hating him. We had some of the boys from Narrabeen at one of the screenings and they all came down afterwards and said “We know that guy. We know a guy like that.“ DAVE: And the Bull hair, mate? You’ve cut it all off. Why? Being bald as a badger myself, I would have milked that psycho image for at least a couple of months! (laughing all round) BEN: It took me a couple of years and I don’t know if that is testament to why I

didn’t have any acting work for a while. I had a bit of a Ned Kelly beard going as well. My girlfriend was very reluctant for me to cut it but I had to for my next job. I was doing a period drama for the ABC and was playing a 30-year-old up to a 70-year-old man. It was set in 1798, so by 1838 I had this bloody grey bouffant hair with these massive big mutton chops. DAVE: You also look like you bulked up for the movie. Did you undergo any specific training regime or just a decent course of steroids? (laughs) BEN: Tell you what it was. Fundamentally, I am pretty lazy, I literally have never been to the gym in my life. A mate of mine took me to the gym about 6 months ago for the first time and I was in there for about half and hour and I hurt my back so badly that I vowed I would never go near a gym again in my life. I just do a lot of swimming and surfing. Leading up to it I was just making sure I was eating well and was healthy but once we were there in the Maldives... We were eating fresh fish everyday and it was about 50 degrees. So I think I

sweated the last 30 years of sh*t out of my system... A good purge. I don’t want to sound too metrosexual here. (laughs) I can’t say I went on a protein diet of tofu and had body wax and stuff like that. I was just eating well and didn’t eat so much junk. DAVE: Speaking of metrosexuals, in one scene Bull has a shot at one of the other characters in the film for that. Was that that a specific dig and intentional commentary on the modern male? BEN: I think it is. It’s a bit of a generalisation, but certainly it does exist - those guys who like the girls to think they’re in touch with their feminine side. There is a certain element of maleness and masculinity that we’re losing because we are being criticised for having testicles, basically. There is certainly a shift in the male psyche and male ideology and I think the director’s development of the characters was terrific. Rob, played by Sam Lyndon, was the “metro f#*king sexual”(as Bull refers to him in the movie) slipping and sliding

his way through things. The one scene where they are setting off in the dinghy towards the break and yell back, “You coming for a surf?” And we’re thinking, “Ahh mate. We’re here on a surf charter and you’ve gone all soft on us and picked up a chick and it’s not about the surf anymore.” There is definitely that element of metrosexuality creeping into the male psyche and yes, yes… I will be perfectly honest, it does concern me. (lots and lots of laughter) It was obvious that between all the jokes and laughter Ben is extremely passionate about his surfing and the ocean. I asked what he loved most about it all. BEN: The ever-changing natural beauty of the ocean. Also the opportunity to be in that energy with the ones you love and care about with your friends and family. From where I’m standing now, I am actually looking out to sea. My girlfriend and I base ourselves near the water wherever possible. It’s almost therapy. Even if I don’t surf every day, I get up in the morning and go for a walk. I make sure I go in the ocean every single day nov/dec 2011

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HIGH QUALITY, HANDCRAFTED AND UNIQUE, ECO FRIENDLY RECYCLED TIMBER FURNITURE.

CALL 0413 061 727 WWW.BYRONBAYFURNITURE.COM without fail. Whether I swim for 50 metres or 2km. I need to have that to start my day, every single day. When I don’t do it I feel like I am getting a bit twitchy. That’s the beginning of my inner psycho. DAVE: Favourite spot nowadays for a surf? BEN: Couple of spots. I love Green Island. I had a great surf last winter at Bronte with only three of us out. Honestly, wherever there’s a good wave and a good vibe. DAVE: And your favourite board? What is the quiver like? BEN: I had really nice 5’11 fish but it got nicked out of my HR Holden a couple of years ago and I’ve never got over it! I am riding a wider board at the moment – an Afterburner. I think they’re for fat blokes? (Laughs) It’s a really nice board. I can go either way. If there is a long swell, I’m more than happy to get out on a 9ft plank. I don’t mind getting out on 4 or 5ft on a 5’11 fish and getting a bit loose with it all. DAVE: A final plug for the movie? BEN: I would just like people to give it a chance. For one, support independent Australian films and two, allow yourself to get lost in the story. If you enjoy it, you enjoy it. If you don’t, you don’t – that’s fine and everyone is an individual and their opinions are theirs. It’s a pretty wild ride. Never one to sit on the fence, I will say this: Make every effort to go and see Caught Inside. Not only to support independent Australian films and filmakers, but because it is genuinely great viewing. If you like your thrillers, this is a cracker and we’re sure we haven’t heard the last of Ben Oxenbould - a star on the rise, and if you can excuse the pun, he is about to ride the crest of one mother of a wave.

A Flying Fish film, produced by Paul Friedmann - who’s also a Northern Beaches clubbie - written by Joe Velikovsky, Matt Tomaszewski and directed by Adam Blaiklock, CAUGHT INSIDE stars Ben Oxenbould, Peter Phelps, Daisy Betts, Sam Lyndon, Simon Lyndon, Leeanna Walsman and Harry Cook. Look out for it at a cinema near you and if it’s not showing ask them why not. For more information on the film, cast and screenings, see www.caughtinside.com.au 48

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Macaronis Resort before the disaster and the boys enjoying the first few days of the trip. Resort photos supplied by Macaronis Surf photos by Colin Sakoff

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LATEST: LOCALS

PARADISE

LOST Most surfers dream about travel to distant parts of the world, in search of perfect waves and isolation away from the daily grind. After taking 25 years to finally make his first surf trip, Newport Beach builder and keen surfer, Garth Galdwell, experienced a lot more than he bargained for when he found himself in the wrong place at the wrong time. One year since a destructive tsunami hit the Mentawais, he recalls a night that he and many others will never forget. WORDS: GARTH CALDWELL

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nov/dec 2011

LATEST: LOCALS “ I STAYED OUT ONE AFTERNOON TILL DARK, JUST SITTING IN THE CHANNEL, WATCHING GUYS GETTING BARREL AFTER BARREL.” “My story begins with a thank you to Surfaid International for their efforts to keep in touch with all the families back home during this major event, to the wonderful Indonesian locals from the resort who only had our best interests at heart and helped us to get out of there safely, and lastly to the boat crew of Tengerri Charters for the rescue of everyone from Macaronis Resort. We owe you so much for your professionalism, food, water, medical assistance and those couple of Bintangs that went down oh so well...” I jumped on a plane from Sydney airport on the 18 October, 2010 for a flight to Denpasar to Jakarta to Padang. On our stopover, we ate, swam and met our travel companions – some Aussies from

Byron Bay and the Central Coast and “Tex” Richard, who had come all the way from Texas via Moscow. We soon departed the harbour for the boat cruise on a supply ship to Sikacap village some 14 hours away. As we reflected on what lay ahead, Bintangs flowed generously until the rumble of the dusty diesel engines took over and sent us all to sleep. Waking the next morning to an overcast day, we sighted land and stopped at Sikacap, then boarded two transfer boats for the wet trip to Macaronis Surf Resort. As soon as we spotted breaking waves in between the rain storms we were all keen as to try and guess what reef we were looking at and what break it was - I will admit that I had no idea. With it still showering and overcast, we finally pulled up to

the wharf to be greeted by Damien, James and all the locals that work at the resort. As we made our way up to the main house to book in, enjoy a fresh coconut juice and a towel off, the first question was naturally: “How are the waves?” With the storm activity it had turned onshore, so we used the time to meet some other guests and headed off to our lagoon huts to settle in. A little later, the wind settled down and there was a little wave on offer for us to see what this break was all about. I got my first wave and it just raced down the line and didn’t stop! For the next five days we got surf from 3 to 6 ft and shared it with some of the boats and travellers from all over the world. I stayed out one afternoon till dark, just sitting in

the channel, watching guys getting barrel after barrel. On the morning of the 25th October there was talk of a boat trip. The waves were a bit smaller and crowded, so we did a trip to a break called Batcaves. On a slow cruise back I looked across at the coastline at the low-lying villages so close to the water. Neither myself, nor the villagers there had any idea of what lay in store only a few hours later. Getting back to the Resort we all hit Maccas for the arvo. Bintang time was again upon us, so we sat down and relaxed yet again after some fun waves. 8:30pm. I was shattered, and I headed off to bed. Within 10 minutes, a lot of the others did the same.

Happy days for Garth at Maccas. RIGHT: The lagoon, before. nov/dec 2011

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9:40pm. What the hell? My bed is shaking. Craig is yelling “Get up! Get up!” I wake in a daze, looking at the TV and the hut shaking. Is it an earthquake? Instinct took over. I grabbed my passport, wallet and camera and ran upstairs in the main house. There was a strange stillness in the air and the smell of the ocean grew stronger and stronger. Little did we realise a Tsunami was coming straight at us. Then it hit.

BELOW: Where the huts had stood, just one day before.

There was chaos. There was panic and screaming as resort staff were caught in the grounds below running to the house. The first wave smashed in, pushing all the huts over like bits of Lego. Blocks, footpaths, trees, concrete, bricks… we watched debris go everywhere and the sound of the torrent of water washing under us, moving and shaking the house structure. Little did we know that the bottom of the house, the restaurant and bar had washed away into the lagoon.

We looked out the windows and the boats in the bay had collided. One seemed to have exploded and was on fire. There was water moving around everywhere and all I could think about was those guys over on the boats. Were they alive or dead? Burnt? Drowned? We watched as the Freedom III punched out through one of the waves and outside into the safety of deeper water. We could hear screams coming from outside, where the local people trapped during the first wave, hanging onto palm trees and holding their breath while the wave washed over them. Wah, the island boat driver, had two locals hanging on to him as he clung to a palm tree himself. Amidst all the chaos, we realised that Robo, one of the boys from Byron bay, was outside and had been caught by the first wave while running from his hut. Washed into the half built pool he had managed to grab a board, or part of one, to stay afloat. He ended up in the

mangroves at the back of the house hanging on for dear life, now three metres in the air battered by trees, bricks, rocks and more. As the second wave came through, we could see through the bay that Robo was still in the trees. We were all very concerned as his mates yelled at him to hang on. As it hit the house they were still yelling at each other - it was the only way we could hear anything above the noise of the water rushing under us. Meanwhile, I looked across the bay and saw the boat had been dragged out and then pushed back into the jungle again by the second wall of water. We were hearing reports of missing people who were jumping ship onto boards thrown overboard or anything else that could float. After about ten smaller wave surges, some of the guys went to get Robo out of the mangroves ,and within ten minutes he was upstairs with blankets, very shaken, in shock and so lucky to be alive. Craig and I were looking at the boat still

“W A S H E D I N T O T H E H A L F B U I LT P O O L , H E H A D M A N A G E D T O G R A B A B O A R D , O R PA R T O F O N E , T O S TAY A F L O AT. ”

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LATEST: LOCALS

The main house in the light of day, still standing.

burning and then saw a smaller inflatable tender from Freedom III come in around Maccas bay rights with a massive flood light. Amazingly, there was a reply in the form of a flashing beacon from the Midas, the boat that was on fire. Survivors… I watched on as they were plucked from the mangroves and into the rescue boat, not knowing or seeing how many had survived. The rescue boat saw my crude Morse code SOS with a torch light and flashed back at me. They knew that there were people still at Maccas. The adrenalin and panic never quite left us as tremors continued to rock the house for a few more hours. The worst was over, but it was the longest night that I had ever spent, totally isolated, not knowing what was going to happen next. 6:30am came and the morning was dull and raining. The daylight brought with it the stark reality of what happened the night before. We came down stairs to a welcome

of absolute destruction. Timber, trees and bricks lay everywhere. Aside from a few busted boards everything was gone. But we were alive. We had to get to Silabu village, back through the jungle about 1 ½ hours away. We found anything that would float - broken boards, took buckets and some drinking water, and made the decision to swim across the lagoon with what we had. The first group set out and within 20 minutes all were across the lagoon and loaded up for the trek through the jungle. As we walked through the jungle we could see how far these waves came inland – easily 500 to 600m. Trees and mangroves were uprooted and lay piled up with dead fish and animals. We found ourselves in waist deep water and climbing over debris, but finally found our way to the track. We arrived at the Chief’s village at around 9am and were greeted with hot tea, noodles and biscuits, which

was immensely appreciated. After some conversation between locals, resort staff and Maccas guides we were told that there were boats coming to the rescue, so it was time to just sit and wait.

ABOVE: Safe at the Chief’s village.

At about 4:00pm the boys from Tengarri boat charters arrived and that was our ticket out. Thanks to a satellite phone, we were able to make our real first communication back home and to SurfAid. nov/dec 2011

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“ I T H O U G H T T O M Y S E L F, I T WA S N ’ T E X A C T LY T H E WAY I H A D E X P E C T E D T O L E AV E SUCH AN AMAZING PLACE.” As the boat left, we passed around the rear of Maccas. Tired after the ordeal, I thought to myself, it wasn’t exactly the way I had expected to leave such an amazing place. Now safely back at a motel in Sikacap, we met up with the others and it was time to reflect on what went on with that stage of our rescue. As locals started dealing with news of death, destruction and damage from all around, we got onto the boat bound for Padang from where we would fly home. A year has gone by, and while some of us are still dealing with it one way or another, my thoughts and heart goes out to those that are still there, picking up the pieces, looking for their families and making sense of the some 450 deaths. Thanks once more to Surfaid International for the massive effort and ongoing commitment to this amazing place that so many of us have been touched by.

O N E Y E A R L AT E R . . . While the lucky ones got to go home, many of the locals had lost theirs and much more. But thanks to the concerted efforts of organisations and individuals, the recovery is well under way. SurfAid International is one of the organisations at the forefront of the support lines providing education in nutrition, hygiene, health and disease prevention. With social support programs in the local community, they have also launched the ‘Epic Mentawai’ campaign to raise funds for the work. All donations are greatly appreciated and are used towards delivering emergency preparedness, recovery and health programs, including hygiene and malaria. Get involved and donate, visit: www.surfaidinternational.org/epicmentawai At the time of going to print, some of the guests who experienced the tsunami and others who helped raise $30,000 to help Macaronis Resort and local villagers get back on their feet were back over in the Mentawais for the anniversary of the event. Mark Loughran, Director of Macaronis Resort said that aside from covering the costs of the overall clean-up and dealing with the 58

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FAR LEFT: A memento of the night - survivors sign a damaged surfboard. LEFT: From survivor to volunteer, Ibu Esri now works with SurfAid to provide social support to her fellow villagers.

emergency situation, a portion of these funds have been put toward assisting the local villagers affected by the disaster. “We found that Tumalea Village - also a part of Silabu Village, and very remotely located - was also completely wiped out,” Mark tells us. “There were only a couple of fatalities in this village from the tsunami, but all the villagers of Tumalea had challenges ahead in having to relocate their homes 3-4km inland - a sad realisation for villagers that used to rely on the ocean for their main food source. All homes of 48 families were destroyed.” The resort funding also supplied the village with a communal 12m longboat with a new outboard engine and a 15 KVA Yanma generator to supply electricity to all 48 new homes in the village. Additionally, a communal TV has been donated to the villagers and will be put in the new school or church.

LEFT: The rebuilding of the resort as at July 2011

“Although these are bare necessities of modern day living for most people, for these guys it’s like gold,” Mark says. “In reality, their life has been pretty bleak over the past year having no transport, no finished houses, no power, nothing really… Just relying mainly on three weekly loads of ‘beras miskin’ - rice delivered by the local government to the poor.”

As for the development of the resort, Mark says the rebuilding is under control. 16 new rooms have been built on the second floor of the main building, this time 9m above sea level and all with great views of the coastline. A new jetty and pool are also complete while construction is under way on new gazebos. “With the new seaplane operation set to commence flights to Macaronis on March 14 next year, it should really give us a big boost back into the action as well, so really looking forward to that.” Click here for more information on the resort: www.macaronisresort.com Check out some footage of surfing during the first day of the anniversary visit: www.youtube.com/watch?v=WisN51R_BiA nov/dec 2011

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Victorian carpentry teacher Michael Pinney seems to be the epitome of a comeback kid. An obsessed wave chaser in his youth, he’s experienced the absolute lows of fighting his way back to the water through injury and illness to the highs of discovering a new love of surfing through longboarding. Inspired by Michael’s determination and drive, World Surfaris surf guide in the Maldives, Richard Kotch, decided it was a tale that needed telling. I’ve only known Michael Pinney for 22 days in total, split over two trips to the Maldives, yet he’s the first person I’ve felt compelled to write about. Without a doubt the most ‘Ocean Minded’ surfer I’ve met out here - famous Pros included - he has the ‘Curren Way’ of being in the right place for the wave of the day, every day, and does it without a hint of greed or cunning. The guy’s a gentleman and it’s almost impossible to get him to talk about himself. But, after a little bit of pressing and a whole lot of observing, here is his story…

S: ND PHOTO WORDS A OTCH RICHARD K

Micheal Pinney (definitely born to surf, with those famous initials) rode a short board for 20 years, though we’re not talking ‘toothpicks’ here. He’s a big bloke who likes big, powerful breaks. Constant travels to waves of consequence dictated a particular type of board. I seriously doubt that he’s ever done an air reverse.

Michael today - destroying lips, not backs. PHOTO: Richard Kotch

“Hawaii and WA,” he replies when asked about favourite waves, and fittingly his ‘short boards’ were 7ft+ on most days, and 9ft+ when Waimea was on. With five trips to the North Shore under his belt and surfing 20ft Wiamea as a personal highlight, Michael reckons the waves down south and up in the desert were as good as anything anywhere. Yes, he was fit, charging and on a roll. Unfortunately, he wasn’t indestructible. In his late 20s, he was out of the water for two years with a serious back injury – a prolapsed disc, where the intervertabral disc is torn and bulges out from the spine. Working as a carpenter his body was already taking a pounding, and weakened from the daily wear and tear, a disc in his back gave way during a backhand re-entry. At only 27, he found himself in severe pain, unable to sit for months and off work for even longer. “After a while I was told I could surf again, but I kept injuring it again and gave up surfing,” Michael says. “I was angry, under a lot of financial pressure, so I had to keep working, which I hated due to the pain.” To add illness to injury, the back damage was followed by Ross River virus at age 29. A cruel, double blow that brought him to the lowest point of his life by far. Thanks to one simple mosquito bite at Pt Lonsdale, he started suffering with headaches, rashes and flu, compounded with arthritis-like joint pain and weakness.

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“I slept 20 hrs a day and struggled to walk due to the pain,” he explains. “There is no cure and the only treatment is to try and reduce the pain, but that didn’t really work. “A physio told me I had the physical capabilities of a 70 year old… This is when I decided to fight it by being as healthy as possible. The statement made me think about the way I was living. It was a blessing in disguise. The pain from all other injuries had gone - it didn’t register compared to the pain I was now in.” But Michael shrugs and says he just dealt with it, that it gave him a whole new pain threshold. And you can hear he’s not trying to impress anyone. He dealt with it, learned to take pain and made it through with the support of his love of 18 years. His voice softens and the emotion is palpable. “I couldn’t have survived without Tracey. I owe her everything. She stood by me through my darkest times. I wasn’t much fun to be around. I was dark, bitter and twisted, and the drugs and drinking made it worse… I just can’t tell you how much I love her.” Dealing with these issues, Michael was out of the water but still very much connected to it. He did a lot of fishing from his boat during his recovery and it turns out it was time well spent, learning more about the ocean in those two years than he did in the twenty before them. The patterns of the Great Southern Ocean storms, the phases of the moon and its effect on the tide and currents are essential reading if you’re venturing miles offshore in a small boat. It all went in. He learned, not by studying graphs or charts, but by being out there, absorbing and feeling the changing moods and rhythm of the ocean. With that learning comes an inner wisdom, a wisdom that now seems to guide him after an hour of catching mid sized runners through the inside, to paddle way outside to catch a bomb set, a set way bigger than anything all session. He paddles for the horizon, catches the one wave, absolutely blitzes it, and then goes back to his insiders. As a surf guide, I’ve been here for four years and thought I had pretty good positioning and wave sense… Mike schooled me, yet seemed quite apologetic about it!

GETTING BACK TO THE SURF After a gradual, semi-recovery, at the age of 30 he started to venture back into the surf, riding the biggest, easiest board to paddle he could find - a longboard. “I fell in love with surfing again,” he says. “I got to learn a new style of surfing. I had no choice but to start as a beginner, but I didn’t realise how much skill was involved in it.” The embers of a fire that had been virtually extinguished started to glow once more. He started surfing club contests at home with the Point Lonsdale Boardriders and the Surf Coast Longboarders of Torquay, winning Club Championships and Open State Title the next year. He went to the Australian Titles but “got shown up big time,” as he puts it. Undeterred, he continued to compete all over Australia making friends and finals. Once again he was on a roll. For the next few years he travelled around Australia, revisiting some favourite haunts with a bit more rail to bury. Now 37, Michael’s still working his way down the road to recovery, but loving every minute of his surfing. It shows. He’s a joy to surf with. He has somehow managed to fuse the egalitarian philosophy of the average Australian with Darwin’s ‘survival of the fittest.’ Sure, he could be on the best wave of every set, but he’s not. He gets his share, but he’s just as likely to tell the surfer waiting next to him: “The next one’s a good one. You’re up

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… Go mate,” rather than out paddle them and take the wave himself. “I love waking up every day with the prospect of a surf, whatever the conditions,” says Michael. “Longboarding gets me out in the water no matter what it’s like. “The last couple of years I’ve made some big improvements in my strength and fitness and I can still go further. “I’ve always loved riding big boards. When I was young, I just thought it was done in big waves. It’s an enjoyable form of surfing and noseriding is up there with barrels. I have also made a lot of friends that ride them.” These friends come in the form of the longboarding community throughout Victoria and Australia. There’s plenty of incentive to get himself to contests, but he says the heats are almost a sideshow to the gathering of mates. Someone mentions the Australian Longboard Title... “That’s my focus now.” says Michael. “It’s what I’ve been working towards for the last few years, though it’s not easy being from Victoria. I’m going to put the effort in and go hard for a few years and see where it takes me.” But competition or not, for Michael it’s all about becoming a better surfer - driving his 9ft board straight up at a pitching lip, floating up to the nose, whipping it back into the pocket and riding the foam ball deep in the barrel. “I want to spend more time on my noseriding,” he told me on his last day out here in the Maldives. “It’s the hardest thing in surfing to learn. It makes a head high wave feel critical. It just feels so good.” There’s a lesson in those few words right there.

BELOW: Michae l and his pillar of strengt h, Tracey.

We wish him all the best. And hope that it ‘feels good’ all the way.

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LATEST: LOCALS

RUNNING AHEAD OF THE CURVE WORDS BY BEN HORVATH

One of the surfing’s true utility players, Shane Peel has enjoyed a career that has crossed over into virtually every facet of the game. From photography and magazine publishing, marketing and most recently surf tourism, there is little the forty-something Sunshine Coast native has not been involved in over the last 20-odd years. What Shane may have lacked in formal education has always been more than compensated for by a driving passion for the culture. “Peely” has published surfing magazines, won awards as a surf photographer and journalist, discovered waves in remote locations, directed marketing for a global surf label, and co-founded one of the world’s best surfing resorts. Thesedays he lives between an island residence in North Sumatra, the snow fields of Hokkaido and the pointbreaks of Noosa. You could say he’s come a long way from the tin shed in Nambour on Queensland’s Sunshine Coast, where it all began. BEN: SO, HOW DID YOU GET INVOLVED IN THE SURFING INDUSTRY IN THE FIRST PLACE?

for the growing long boarding fraternity as well, creating Australian Longboarding Magazine. That’s when things really started to move forward.

SHANE: I guess like a lot of people in the surf industry, my start was born of frustration with the status quo. I had been shooting photos from the age of 16 and had a few published from a trip I did to Bali in the late 80’s, but found I was spending a fortune on film and processing, going backwards at a rate of knots. My mates would look at the images and say “You’re kidding, they didn’t want to print that?” So after a while I started to believe them, and with a friend from the Sunshine Coast we started up Waverider Magazine. Our plan was to produce a super-localised magazine for surfers on the Gold and Sunshine Coasts. The magazine grew rapidly, becoming a nationally circulated publication. We then decided to provide something

Peter Morrison (of Morrison Media) took me under his wing, buying the masthead after four issues, whilst I continued on as editor. That opportunity exposed me to the greater industry. I was then headhunted by Rip Curl to head up the Marketing Department of their Free Sports Division. That was another eye opener. I parted company with the Curl after a couple of fun years and found myself unemployed the week before Christmas in Torquay. Christmas in Torquay is a pretty grim time wave wise, so it was a simple decision to pick up the cameras and hit the road. For the next six or so years I specialised in producing remote nov/dec 2011

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“ WE FORMED TELO ISLAND LODGE OVER A SIX PACK AND A COUPLE OF BOTTLES OF WINE.” and that afternoon I went to the ATM, promptly withdrew the remaining cash I had on my least burnt credit card and we formed Telo Island Lodge PTY LTD over a six pack and a couple of bottles of wine with our girlfriends. That evening our lives changed forever. YOU MAKE TAKING A RISK SOUND PRETTY EASY. WAS IT REALLY THAT SIMPLE? At first it was remarkably simple. We knew the location better than anyone. Mark spent the previous 15 years in North Sumatra. I understood marketing and we had a clear vision of just what we thought we could do. The simple life ended pretty quickly though. Sitting here six years later reflecting on an unbelievable amount of hard work, stress, risk and a couple million bucks invested, the reality of running a high end tourism business in a remote location is pretty apparent to all of us involved in resort. We have had a remarkably lucky run though. As Lopez said all those years ago “It’s all about timing, with the right timing you can come from anywhere”. DO YOU STILL SPEND A FEW MONTHS OF THE YEAR PURSUING POWDER IN JAPAN?

location surf features, going as hard as I could go. My general routine was three weeks on the road, bolt home, drop the film at the lab, write the feature, sleep for a few days, edit the shots and send them to the relevant mags before rolling straight into the next assignment. It was a super fun period in my life that allowed me to travel to some of the most obscure surf locations on the planet. Places like Sardinia, the outer islands of Melanesia, Central America, Kiribati, the back blocks of Indo, pretty much anywhere I thought there might be surf. HOW DID TELO ISLAND LODGE COME ABOUT?

For diehard waxheads like you, Horvath, and crew who have never ridden a snowboard in perfect powder - DO IT. The feeling is so similar to surfing, it’s insane and the best powder snow in the world is in Hokkaido, Japan. We had been sneaking up to a place called Annupuri to go boarding in January every year. One morning on the front steps, the fella who owned the place we stay at mentioned there was a chance it was up for sale. That old timing thing again. It just so happened we had made a little money that year at Telo, so we scratched together the funds and launched Annupuri Lodge a few years ago. That’s our winter home now in Dec, Jan and Feb. A perfect foil to the rest of the year in the tropics.

I remember being at home in Torquay between assignments when an old mate of mine Mark “Maxy” Grant from the early days in Indonesia pulled into the car-park at Winki. We were having a chat and I casually asked what he was up to? He mentioned he was thinking about starting a surf resort up in Sumatra. I asked if he wanted a partner. He said “Sure,”

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LATEST: LOCALS

WHERE TO NOW, SHANE? WHAT LIES AHEAD FOR YOU AND THIS INDUSTRY THING? It’s all about running ahead of the curve I reckon. The global surf industry is a multi-billion dollar industry. People are taking up boarding sports in unprecedented number. The global surf tourism industry is a 7 billion dollar industry and is growing faster than any other segment in surfing. Everything is changing rapidly. Stuff we dreamed about five or six years ago are already reality. Things like wavepools, seaplane surf trips, snow parks. They are all here NOW. The future is now. The people who are going to influence that culture moving forward will be the early adapters, people or companies who have a vision for the future, but a respect for the past.

Smorgasboarding all the way, Shane makes the most of slopes in the water and the snow. PHOTOS: Supplied

At the end of the day though, for surfers nothing much has changed. All you need is a board, a pair of shorts and the ocean provides the rest. It’s what’s available to you - if you wish to take it to the next level, that’s changed. The options are better at all levels than any point in the history of surfing.

“ ALL YOU NEED IS A BOARD, A PAIR OF SHORTS AND THE OCEAN PROVIDES THE REST. “

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LATEST: COLLECTOR

ADDICTED TO Simon Kettle talks to a passionately positive hoarder of surfing history Richie Laing began like so many surfers before him on old paddleboards and ‘mals’ in the wind-churned waves of Blackrock in Port Phillip Bay, Victoria. But on school holidays he ventured regularly down to Phillip Island on the Bass Coast and moved there permanently in the late 1970’s.

home and that was the first board I actively went out and said, ‘I’m going to surf this board, but I’m going to keep it too’.“

For Richie and his family - wife Di and children Daniel and Jess - surfing has become a lifestyle and a love, frequenting the many quality waves The Island has to offer whenever they get the chance. Part of Richie’s love for surfing extends to his passion for surfboard collecting and SIMON KETTLE was lucky enough to catch up with him recently, and talk the talk with a true collector.

“It is now, but at one stage I was absolutely ruthless in my pursuit of boards. But half the surfing population is collecting as well, so it’s become expensive and hard to get them. I think people that have boards realise there’s some historic value to them and there’s not so many being sold or given away. A lot of my boards were given or gifted to me. I bought a few, but now if I have to, I’ll walk away. Although if it’s a twinnie or single fin and 7’ or under...”

“In 1977 I realised I was a collector of surfboards. I actively went to the Dandenong ‘Trash n Treasure’ market and I saw a 11’ Makaha triple-stringer longboard sitting there. The guy wanted 30 bucks for one of the most beautiful things I’d ever seen, but I only had $25. Luckily I talked him down. $25 was a substantial amount in those days - nearly half my wage for a week, but I just had to have it. We somehow tied it on the roof of Di’s Vauxhall Cresta which was interesting, because it had a round roof like a VW Beetle. But we did get it

IS YOUR SURFBOARD COLLECTING ADDICTION UNDER CONTROL?

WAS THERE A SURFBOARD YOU CHOSE NOT TO BUY BUT WISH YOU COULD GO BACK IN TIME AND PURCHASE? “Well, I haven’t walked away from that many. If I really, really wanted them I’ve got them. There was one that I was offered for 50 bucks that just looked like it belonged at the tip and I said to the guy ‘No, you’re dreaming. For $50 you

“I could never let go of my George Rice surfboards.”

, The Rice Stuff left to right... 9’2” Balsa - Given to me by Phillip Island’s most senior and respected sculptor and ceramic artist, David Fincher. It was lying in his paddock with creatures walking on it for years. It was lovingly restored by ‘Choc Oke’ and is a thing of beauty. 5’3” George Rice ‘Rice Bubble’ I found it in a caravan in Cowes and had to have this classic S-deck shorty. 9’6” George Rice Competition Model I love this board. Won two Old Mal titles at Lorne point on this baby! 70

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RICE

Vicco collector s Richie Laing’ hunger for classic boards

The MC Quiver MICHAEL CUNDITH SURF DESIGNS

Danny Wills Rippa

should be giving it to me to save you dumping it’. It was 9’, painted white and it was trashed but it ended up being an excellent old Keyo with an aluminium sticker on the back that dated it very early 60’s. The guy who got it had the whole thing stripped, saved the sticker and resprayed it with magnificent red and white stripes. It’s the greatest example of an early 1961 Keyo that you’ll ever see. I regret that one.”

5’10” x 19” x 2 1/8”

Dart Fish

6’2” x 21 ¾” x 2 ½”

Islander

6’8” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”

Stubbie

6’8” x 22 ½” x 3”

Davenport Disc

6’10” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”

WHAT SURFBOARD ARE YOU TAKING WITH YOU TO THE GRAVE? “I could never let go of my George Rice surfboards because I like the boards and I’ve met and spoken with George. I’ve got a few of his boards from 5’6 to 9’6 and I just love them. I love the history of the name too, so I’d keep those.” HOW HAS YOUR OBSESSION AFFECTED YOUR FAMILY? “They’re very supportive of it! My son Daniel is taking more interest in it. At the start, he just couldn’t understand it, but he’s actually developed an appreciation of the style and shapes of the boards and he surfs a few of the single fins really well. So, he actively sources them for me too. Even Jess has an appreciation for them now. We’re still working on Di but she’s still got a fair way to go. WHICH CLASSIC OLD BOARD DO YOU GET ASKED ABOUT WHEN YOU TAKE IT FOR A SPIN? “There’s a lot of interest in the 8’ Stubbies, the Vee Bottoms because guys look at them and they go, ‘ ooh, that’s shorter and the vee bottom with Greenough fins in them. I’d really love to have a surf on them’. They’re the ones I get asked about all the time.

ON ANY MODEL

“Oh, we’ve got room. I’ve still got a bit of room down stairs. Di insisted I build a house for the surfboard collection. We had them all in a container which is where she would’ve liked them to have stayed, but I just kept putting them on top of the other ones.“

CUSTOM ORDERS

DO YOU ‘MAKE ROOM’ IF A SURFBOARD IS TOO GOOD TO RESIST?

Whale Fish

8’0” x 25 ½” x 3 ½”

The Man Gun

9’1” x 22 ¼” x 3 ¼”

High Performance Mal

9’1” x 22 ¾” x 2 ¾”

IS THERE A SURFBOARD YOU’VE REGRETTED SELLING? “Yes. I didn’t sell it, I gave it away. A mate that lives next door to me in Cowes really wanted to get a board for decoration, so I got him this surfboard for a $100. It lived in his garage for twenty years and it never saw the light of day because he didn’t really care. I should have kept that one for my collection, but at least its next door. It’s a lovely looking board. DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR SOMEONE EMBARKING ON A SURFBOARD COLLECTING ODYSSEY IN 2011? “I think there’s going to be today’s boards that will be collectable tomorrow. We trashed and tossed out so many great surfboards. Like all the twinnies - they never survived and now they are are really hard to find, whereas the single fin before them did. I think there are iconic brands in 2011 that the guys of today will be talking about in the future and saying, ‘I should have kept that Al Merrick’ or something like that. “But if you’re looking to collect boards from the 60’s, 70’s or 80’s, then just think about if you’ve got the room for them. My advice would be to get one or two classic examples from each era. You’ll get a lot of enjoyment out of looking at them. I’d love to see just a fine example of each era up on the wall. That would be magnificent!! So, that’s my advice. Don’t discard all today’s boards, because the guys that did in the 60’s and 70’s now regret it.“

Balsa Mal Telephone: 02 66858778 Fax: 02 66808932

FREIGHT IT NOW! We’ll send boards anywhere in Australia for reasonable rates

Factory Showroom: 3 Banksia Drive Byron Bay Industrial Estate BYRON BAY NSW 2481 email: info@mcsurf.com.au

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9’6” x 24” x 3 ¼”

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Sorry mate, thought I already included the specs, here ya go. - Left to right - Bamboo 6 ply layup 41inch no brand. Dashboard Longboard wolf prowler 36inch (great surf style). Dashboard Longboard bear in a medium 36inch (great snowboard style). and a 9ply dropdown deck 40inch no brand. The Kahuna sticks are 2x Adjustable Moko big stick, regular big stick 5’6” and my favourite the Big stick Bamboo 6’0”. This is a great all round quiver for street SUPing everywhere. I always keep a board and Adjustable big stick in my car encase I get the urge to go for a skate when I’m away from home (University/Work, I work at adrenalin Boardstore) My personal favourite combo at the moment is the DB Longboard Bear and the Bamboo big stick! great fun and very smooth for trips over 20k. I also have a new board, It’s a custom size and shape I’ve been working on for a while. It’s 8’ long and closest thing I could get to a SUP on land, which might make an interesting story. (check pictures attached). Cheers, Tommy Jacobson www.tommyjacobson.com www.facebook.com/tommyjacobsonofficalpage

THIS PAGE: Chris Anderson with one of his Coffins, and ACROSS: A 100-board test photo shoot.

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LATEST: CONSCIENCE

Where do surfboards go to die? This is a question that Chris Anderson asked himself and the question that has inspired a public art project and exhibition. As a passionate surfer as well as designer and artist from the picturesque coastal town of Kiama, Chris poses this question to the public with his 1000 Surfboard Graveyard - an artwork he’s producing to raise awareness about unsustainable materials and wastage of surfboards. “I aim to collect 1000 broken surfboards from members of the community and industry,” Chris explains. “I plan to install them like headstones at a graveyard on Garie Beach. The installation will be photographed as an image for an artwork and will be used to make a short film, which is currently in progress.” Chris hopes the public artwork will provoke some thought and open up new conversations on managing waste and improving the sustainability of surfboards. He also stresses that the project is not about pointing a finger or blaming anybody, but is rather intended to draw attention to the environmental impacts of surfboard manufacture to those who may not be aware.

According to Chris’ research there are between 47 to 63 million surfboards in circulation worldwide, the vast majority of which will go to landfill. Recently a few of them have found a new home instead in Chris’ back yard. “I am currently storing the surfboards at my home,” he says. “Mum wasn’t too keen when I told her that 1000 surfboard halves were destined for her backyard. Dad had a momentary freak-out too. Since I’ve started collecting them, they have come around. They see my vision now, and are totally ‘on board.’” Some of the dead boards have been resurrected, with Chris turning them into a DIY board he’s calling coffins. “I just hack them up in to a coffin shape using a saw and then I use duct tape to seal the foam.” he explains. “I wanted to show it was something anyone could do. I’ve never glassed a board anyway. I went as far as hacking a cross into the nose of one of them, riding that one at night was something else, seriously spooky! They are all super fun, and spin really easily.”

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"The artwork aims to provoke conversation and generate new ideas for managing this waste." The progress of the project will be on public display at an exhibition in the Patagonia Sydney store at 93 Bathurst Street which features photographs and a short film. Chris will also do a short talk to explain the project and answer any questions on the night of Thursday, November 17. Other highlights for the evening include a talk by Dave O’Reilly from Surfing Green about recycled and renewable surf accessories as well as an eco-board building demonstration by Jason Wiggers from Samsara Surfboards. Chris is keen to have more community involvement, so if you have any broken surfboards he can pick up, if you have any ideas for recycling or reusing surfboards or simply would like more information, you can email him on chris_anderson105@hotmail.com and you can follow the project on Facebook at www.facebook.com/1000SG For more on the project and eco-friendly surf information: 1000surfboardgraveyard.blogspot.com www.samsarasurfboards.com www.surfinggreen.com.au

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LATEST: TALENT FIFTEEN YEAR-OLD NOOSA GROM NICK CALLISTER’S PASSION FOR THE ART OF SURFING IS SO INTENSE, THERE’S NO WAY IT’S STAYING IN THE WATER. WORDS: MATT MULLENS

FINE LINES reds, greens and yellows of his considerable Posca pen collection.

“I’d much rather be making up weird creatures and experimenting than doing straight art,” Nick says. “It’s way more fun and interesting to use your imagination because you can put your own stamp on it and show your individuality. I like weird art that’s experimental and uses heaps of colour, like Mambo and Picasso.” While the Queensland under-16 surfing representative impresses onlookers with his natural flair in the surf and a penchant for charging waves nearly twice his height, it’s his distinctive, hand-drawn board designs that are turning heads in the line-up. Inspired by the board-art of pro-surfer Julian Wilson’s mother Nola, Nick started decorating his own boards a few years back. Now, a hobby that began as a bit of fun to pass the swell-deprived days away has grown into a full-blown obsession. 76

“I remember seeing what Julian’s mum had drawn on his boards and they looked sick, so I wanted to find out how to do it,” Nick says. “I started on some old boards with just sort of abstract designs and worked really hard at it till I felt confident enough to draw on new ones without stuffing them up. It’s just gone on from there really.” Nick’s artwork reflects his surfing creativity and usually features clowns, aliens and big-toothed monsters depicted with the vibrant, fluorescent

A recent trip to Indonesia provided Nick with fresh creative fodder, which he might be drawing on soon after approaches from fellow surfers keen to add some style to their own rides. “I was so inspired by the colours and masks in Indo,” Nick says. “Some of the landscapes at Sumbawa were amazing – the cactus plants, the rusted iron on the fishing shacks, the old fishing boats. “People are interested in my designs and some have asked me to work on their boards. I’m actually starting to

make a litle bit of money out of it, which is pretty cool.”

“ I WAS SO INSPIRED BY THE COLOURS AND MASKS IN INDO” Nick’s favourite board – a Shotgun 5’5 – also features what he rates as his most creative design. But it’s pretty out there, so best let him describe it. “The bottom has an alien-type face with a lolly-pop head or something,” Nick laughs. “There’s a big, crazy clown face on the nose end with heaps of bright, flouro greens and blues, surrounded with odd shapes and patterns. It’s like most of my art, I use a lot of colours and strange shapes and faces to make it stand out.”

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LATEST: IMAGES GRANT SAYS... My brother Russ in a late afternoon tube during the week long run of pumping waves in July this year. Shelly Beach. 78

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GRANT M O P O R LONY T F O L I O THE

There must be s on the Centr omething in the air al Coast. A Keen to see sid the consistentl continued to world himself, Grant y delivering e from broaden his good surfers and musicia Drop Knee traversing a ns to the na interests, cross the g lobe in sea ti o region is sta waves and n, the rch of ideal seeking frie rting to pro ndly compe Tahiti to Ha ve it has its fair share o tition. From waii, Japan f talented p to Ireland a to E l S alvador, the hotographe nd Cuba too. In past travel bug b rs issues, we’v only enthuse it him hard d him even e featured and some of the more. adept surfe S o , th is rs habitua area and ph out of the otos taken further enco l traveller was inspire d an by some loc ura including J professiona ged to purchase his firs d als ustin Allport l camera. S t . Now it’s ti to put anoth e ein the water fr me er photogra om this uniq g the world and pher-slashue wanted to e waterbaby xtend this vi perspective, Grant in the fram si on to b w it e h a the world. T nd find out more about he seamless e shared the man be p h o to transition in g ra phy seemed hind the len to only natura WORDS: A s... of his life’s l - a merg IMEE pass

ions. ing SICS Born and bre S in ce ve n tu d on the co ring into the ast, Grant M sure is one fie at the start olony of those gif of 2009, Gra ld of photography te d talking abo ty n t hasn’t sto p se e s lf -c w o e nfessed pe ’re ut. Not only pped. A rfectionist, doe photograph the conven he goes be er have a kn s the professional ti o n yond a l a n d is constan ack and taking his creativity tly conveyin awesome sh for clicking away , if n o g t th o ro ts also has th ugh the len of the surf, ink on a can ree Australa s then with Grant vas. His blo sian and th Drop Knee g , grantmolon blogspot.co ree Nationa (bodyboard yphoto. m, d l ing) titles u No strange portfolio pie isplays everything fro nder his be r to the wa m ce his s lt to . a te rt r, he’s comple it was obvi the younge there were ous that ted when st of five bo no waves to ys - three o the stand u b e found. f whom use p va “I’ve been p the ocean to riety - would grow a lo laying arou ve for o. n d for a while with ink on now, mainly canvas With a clan animals,” h some reaso of five broth e says. “Fo n , n a tu re r is a recurrin ers always trek g theme.” along to the , Grant would He’s also qu beach with boys. Fortu ite fond of co the o nate llecting old brother Russ ly, talent runs rife in th lder cameras. “I’m addicte is family: ell is a com d to re lic petitive surf s. enjoyed mu La st si xt co y on the sh unt, I had o er and has ch success, elf...” ver making him subject for a decent Grant to sh T h e travel bug oot in the w is well and ater. Seeing the world and so truly still alive. aking up dif cultures en fe courages G rant to captu rent only the wa re not ter, but an a rray people to la ndscapes, w of subjects - from eddings to still life.

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I love to shoot empty waves, the oceans finger prints. Water and light captured in a moment this is Samoa from May this year.

The most simple raw form of wave riding just body and energy. Mitch Cox getting back to the roots, Soldiers Beach.

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GRANT MOLONY P O R T F O L I O THE

Marcus Davidson, owner of Boarderline Surf & Skate and also my boss, with an early punt before opening the shop.

Russ and a glimpse into the underwater world. A fisheye view of a pigdog tube.

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LATEST: IMAGES

IKE G L NG RFIN I H OT D SU N ITH A ’S N E W A R K K E “TH G BAC BREA ED BY ” IN OCAL LLOW ER… M CO UR L FO BURG . S TE YO A AN C M I R EX YOU HS M BYT

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GRANT MOLONY P O R T F O L I O THE

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In the past year, surfing trips to Peru, Japan, Hawaii and Samoa have furthered his ability to create inspiring images that are not going unnoticed. “Japan is amazing,” he tells us. “The people are incredible. The contrast between the old and the new and how they effortlessly work together is just nuts.” In terms of photography, the dream destination has been Tahiti. “The colours and waves... It’s everything a photographer could ask for. Shame I didn’t have my setup back then!” Next stamp for the passport? “So many! Wave-wise it would have to be Cloud 9. That’s always been on the list.” Time abroad has meant he’s surfed some exciting places, but it’s at North Shelly that Grant feels most at home and loves the most.

ABOVE: Grant self portrait while hard at work, or play, or both.

“There’s nothing like coming back and surfing your local break with your mates. Followed by a Byths Mexican burger…” While at home, Grant has been working at Boarderline Surf and Skate, Long Jetty, for over ten years, which means he’s well acquainted with everything related to surfing. Gear wise, he’s a Canon man through and through. “I think it’s kinda like Coke or Pepsi- you are one or the other. But in saying that, a few people in the industry have been changing teams!” With a Canon 50d and Dave Kelly custom housing, the Tokina fisheye is good fun, but hands down his favourite lens would be the 50mm. “Definitely for the water. I wish I could afford the 1.2... Maybe one day!” The way things are gearing up, the lens and travel he’s after could just be around the corner. The future certainly looks bright as he’s now also selling his prints framed, unframed and on canvas. There’s no doubt with his style that we’ll continue to see even more impressive work in the future. “I want to build things slowly and keep all sales personal to give my work meaning.” We look forward to seeing it all along the way. grantmolonyphoto.blogspot.com www.krop.com/grantmolony

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Bushrat painting by Stan Squires, recycled timber frame by Phil Johnson

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FREE THINKERS THE THRILL OF RIDING A WAVE IS AN INDIVIDUAL PURSUIT. SURE WE MAY SHARE OUR ENJOYMENT WITH OTHERS AROUND US BUT THE PLEASURE DERIVED FROM SURFING IS PERSONAL. OUR CHOICE OF SURF CRAFT IS ALSO AN INDEPENDENT DECISION. BUT HOW MUCH HAVE OUR OPINIONS ABOUT SURFBOARD DESIGN BEEN FORMED BY THE SURF MEDIA? WORDS: DAVE SWAN

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LATEST: DEBATE

Have surfers transformed from the free-thinking, free-spirited souls of our forefathers to a conservative bunch of conformists happy to consume homogenous mass produced surfboards...

or are we coming about full circle? The increasing variety of craft hitting the water nowadays suggests a shift in the psyche of the Australian surfer. Emerging from what could be argued as a period of stifled creativity, where ideas on the fringe were sidelined, surfers appear to be once again focused on what works as opposed to how it looks. After all, functional design is much more fun. If you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t surf like a pro, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t ride a pro board. And with that, minds are opening up to new possibilities in design and construction methods. But with this growing acceptance of innovative design, is it time to push the boundaries even further? What new frontiers lie on the horizon? We talk with six shapers we have met on our travels who have never been known to toe the line of the status quo.

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Modern Flextail

Mitchell Rae Outer Island Surfboards INTRO: Alchemist of soul surfing HAILS FROM: Dee Why, NSW NOW LIVES: NSW north coast, not far from Coffs Harbour SHAPING: Professionally, 40 years SHAPES: All manner of craft from performance shortboards, guns and longboards through to collectable balsa boards

WHO BETTER TO START OUR DISCUSSION ON SURFBOARD DESIGN THAN MITCHELL RAE... Over the course of my travels up and down the coast with smorgasboarder, his name is regularly mentioned, in many circles. To say he is respected and revered as a master craftsman amongst his peers would be a huge understatement. Mitchell is admired for being his own man. Never one to beat to the sound of someone else’s drum, he has always preferred to cut his own path. He is widely recognised as an innovative shaper prepared to push the boundaries of design, namely in the field of flex. His brave pursuit of flex coupled with his stoic stance on design principles has seen him develop a very loyal following. “Over the years I have explored new concepts, exploratory work, with no existing reference points. It can be very lonely pursuing new ideas. In ’69 when boards had rolled bottoms with S decks and no edges, I was exploring extreme designs with deep concaves and razor edges which were very confronting and took a long time to gain acceptance and become integrated within mainstream design. “With evolving a design, I often take it to the absolute extreme, explore the boundaries, and often bring it back to a less extreme form to achieve a balanced, user-friendly shape.” WHY ARE SO FEW PUSHING THE BOUNDARIES OF DESIGN? “We’re hamstrung by ‘fashion’ trends. I think they limit design progression. People can be very reluctant to embrace new ideas unless they are endorsed by the pros.

“Because everyone surfs differently, I am mixing a recipe of design elements to suit the individual surfer. Surfers have different approaches to wave riding, as individual as a fingerprint.”

1978 Flextail

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You only have to look around Mitchell’s workshop to understand the variety of boards he shapes. “I do believe surfers are starting to embrace innovative design once more. The whole retro movement is evidence of that. I think surfers have been so polarised by the pro dynamic, with everyone riding boards driven by the pro surfing criteria. Not everyone surfs that way… I think people are starting to realise that there is a much wider range of choice and that those ‘other’ boards just may suit their surfing more.“

Shaping is an artform Aside from being a shaper, Mitchell has other outlets for his creativity. He is also an accomplished artist. He paints and sculpts. “Making a piece of art is a satisfying thing... “Shaping takes it to another level. When you ride the board you can feel the ideas and design science at work, make assessments of the results, refine and evolve the concept. I think shaping can be the most rewarding art form of all. “It’s like sculpture. Inside every blank is a beautiful board. You are paring away all the excess until you reveal that idea you have in your mind. That is the art of shaping.” WHAT HAS LEAD THE RENAISSANCE OF SURFBOARD SHAPING? Mitchell explains how mass produced boards made on a tight timeline and budget has lead to what could only be referred to as the ‘disposable age’. This coupled with tight economic conditions has prompted surfers to seek out quality craftsmanship once more.

“The board industry has gone the way of the Japanese chopstick… total disposability. I’m looking to build durable, reliable boards. You don’t want to be a few days into your surf trip to paradise and have equipment failure. “Producing small numbers of top shelf boards, we can lavish more time on each one. At the laminating stage we apply the fibreglass under tension like a drum skin, slow cure resin mixes allow time for full foam penetration. Pulling the fibres into a diagonal with wider laps, using the materials to the maximum, adds no weight and gives a more durable board.” Technology has been a catalyst in driving the evolution of shaping in both a negative and positive sense. “One of the downfalls is that everything is homogenised. You can walk through a surf shop and all the boards are the same apart for the branding. Most shapes are coming off the machines, leaving very little room for individuality. “A lot of young shapers are going straight to the design software and shaping machines, bypassing the learning ground of basic tool skills… put them in a shaping room with a blank and a planer and they are lost. “The adverse reaction to this has been more surfers are now pursuing custom shapes, once again driving innovation. “Modern technology has also had a positive impact on innovation in terms of the materials available to board builders such as carbon fibre and different types of foam. The surf industry has always sought new materials that have floated down from aerospace technology and the like.“ “The movement toward retro shapes, single fins, fish etc. has many positive aspects, in that a number of younger shapers are exploring the basics, shaping by hand, doing quality laminates with tints, pigments and gloss finishes and keeping traditional techniques alive - keeping the soul in shaping.”

The quest for flex

production line either. It’s good to see some people are starting to explore flex patterns and concepts . Flex still remains an unexplored area for many surfers.”

“Flex has been the Holy Grail to me. Flex is the best way to give an inanimate object life. It allows the surfer to change the formula while riding a wave. Flexible forms can change shape while in motion. It generates propulsion, like a dolphin’s tail, producing forward drive.

HOW DO YOU CREATE FLEX IN YOUR BOARDS?

“George is the godfather of flex. He is still to my mind the guru master and is responsible for many innovations, a real out-of-the-box thinker. Surfing at Lennox with George, Brocky and the Wilderness crew, McTavish and Nat, we all were riding solid shapes and there George was on his little flexible spoon. He was getting in and out of spaces that we couldn’t get to and we were all like, ‘What’s going on here?’ “With a regular board, it’s a fixed object so you are surfing around a certain set of curves and parameters. You can only do what is possible with that shape. By virtue of so much flex in his board, George was able to alter its shape and warp it into the shape of the wave. “My first dabble into flex was when I made a custom order kneeboard for a mate of mine, Andrew Whitton (R.I.P.) I actually surfed it standing up at Ulus and was blown away. “George was prepared to sacrifice paddling power entirely, to take all the foam out of the board and use fins to catch waves. Being a stand up surfer I wanted to be able to paddle the boards and get into waves so I couldn’t take the same approach to achieving flex as George did. Influenced by George, I take a lot of inspiration from the natural world, looking at the way fish, their fins, birds and their wings are designed and function. “ WHY HASN’T FLEX CAUGHT ON IN MAINSTREAM SURFING SOONER? “It does still surprise that it hasn’t been popularised. One reason is it is labour intensive. There are no short cuts to making a proper flextail. The labour and material factor is up and they don’t suit a

Outer Island Surfboards is renowned as a world leader in flex technology, with flextails, carbon fibre controlled flex patterns, the use of timber in specific functions, to control the overall flex pattern of a surfboard and their most recent innovation in design, the V2 Flex. Mtchell’s original flextails were made of fiberglass and polyester resin, tapering out very thin like a fin, which worked well but sacrificed a lot of paddle power. Since the 80’s and the availability of new materials, Mitchell uses carbon fibre (which has superior flex properties) and a flexible foam (borrowed from boogy board technology) which restores the original foil, buoyancy and paddling power. Mitchell says that flex works in guns and longer boards equally well. He calls his latest approach to achieving flex ‘V2 Flex’. It is beautiful in its simplicity and is about utilising the natural properties of the materials to their fullest by controlling the flex pattern with 2 stringers in an inverted V shape. These converge at the nose and exit the tail rail forward of the fins, giving increased rigidity in the body of the board and flex through the tail section. “It’s about controlling the overall flex pattern of the board…putting the flex where you want it. Most boards have some belly flex, which slows the board down. Early ‘90s experiments with carbon rails improved the flex pattern, which we still use in our ‘Stealth’ range, but I believe the timber stringers impart a more organic feel of flex. Customer feedback on our V2 Flex has been extraordinary. For the last 3 years we have been making over 90% of our boards that way.” Mitchell’s most advanced designs combine the V2 Flex with his original carbon Flextail taking flex to another level.

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“I enjoy shaping custom boards to suit the individual. Because everyone surfs differently, I am mixing a recipe of design elements to suit the individual surfer. Surfers have different approaches to wave riding, as individual as a fingerprint. Most of my clients are repeats and I get to know what works for them.”

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Mark Rabbidge Rabbidge Surf Designs and Retro Longboards INTRO: Runner up in the 1987 World Title, Mark is not only a capable surfer but an accomplished shaper having worked for many of Brookvaleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s iconic surfboard manufacturers before starting his own brand. HAILS FROM: Northern Beaches, NSW NOW LIVES: Bendalong, NSW South Coast SHAPING: 46 years

Mark Rabbidge Photo: Dave Swan

SHAPES: A surfer who rides equipment to suit the conditions means he has an open mind to design and has a long history with alternative boards from fish to fatboys, guns, mals, finless, asymmetricals and shortboards.

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Mick Rabbidge with a few of his dad’s finless creations

FOR MARK RABBIDGE, THE CONTINUAL PURSUIT OF INNOVATIVE SURFBOARD DESIGN IS JUST SOMETHING HE DOES. BUT WHY AREN’T MORE SHAPERS FOLLOWING SUIT? MARK IS BLUNT IN HIS ASSESSMENT. “A lot of guys just creep because they are trying to make retail surfboards. They are too scared to make something ‘out there’ because they may not be able to sell it. If you go to a big surf store nowadays it looks like the whitegoods department at Harvey Norman, all the boards standing up in a row. They pretty much look the same. How would you pick one? “Me, I don’t give a care if I sell it. I just want to ride different boards to see what they do on a wave. After all, it’s about riding the wave and not the board. “Back in 1962 when I rode a kneeboard and stood up on it, that was different. (laughs) A different feel is what I want, what I am constantly seeking.” Mark’s reference to kneeboarding piques my interest. In my travels, I have encountered a lot of surfers who believe kneeboard shapers to be more progressive than surfboard shapers. I asked Mark for his opinion. “Hell yeah, because you don’t see kneeboards in most retail shops. They don’t have to conform. Kneeboard shapers tailor make all their boards to suit the individual customer. There are no fashionable fads to adhere to that have been set by the major clothing companies and the media. “For me, the varied stuff I build is fun. They all go different but they go unreal.” CUSTOM BOARDS ARE WHAT DRIVE INNOVATION “Nothing is experimentation for me. I have been shaping for a long time. You see I just make surfboards for people. I don’t have to make lots and lots of the same board for the retail rack. I make them for individuals. So when a person comes to me, I take down a lot of information. It may not be length or thickness that comes into play but where they want to surf, how they want to surf, what kind of feel they are after and what boards they have enjoyed in the past.

are crazy so you design a board that goes right very efficiently.” GROWING ACCEPTANCE OF INNOVATIVE DESIGN “I think we are in a really good space at the moment. I like what is going on. I think there is less conformity in surfing these days and people are just out to simply enjoy themselves. There used to be a stigma about what you rode but nowadays it is less and less. “My ten year old rides everything - long, short, bodyboards… everything and anything. Ultimately we are riding waves. That’s where I think it is at. “For me, at my age, I can’t surf the way I used to, so there is no point trying and no point riding that same equipment. The only way I can find out what is going to be fun is to explore new ideas… to find new challenges. It is not with the view to telling everyone, ‘this is the latest and greatest’. It’s just to enjoy it.”

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“What I really want to get into is recycled products. I want to go to the tip and look around and go, ‘Ohh, I can surf that.’ Whatever it may be, I want to make it into an item I can surf.’ Neil Cameron, an innovative kneeboard shaper who happened to call in to Mark’s when I visited, told us a story of when Bruce Raymond was travelling with a bunch of Hawaiian waterman who ride anything and everything. Apparently Bruce saw one of them had a plastic dinner tray in his bag. He used it as a paipo board. It was then that he discovered they all had one Kentucky Fried Chicken dinner trays! When Bruce quizzed them about using McDonalds dinner trays instead, they informed him they didn’t work. (laughing) “You see. That is where it is at. I want to be able to go to the tip and build a board out of some French doors and go, ‘Hey this one with the lead light windows in it goes better.’ That is the future of revolutionary board building to me.”

“With all that said, if you are going to shape thousands of surfboards you are going to get a lemon every now and again. It happens. Hell, I am not perfect. But even with them, what doesn’t work for someone goes unreal for someone else. “I just enjoy making all kinds of boards – mals, logs, retro boards… you know, stingers, singlefins, performance shortboards, finless… even asymmetricals. I mean asymmetricals are a very functional piece of equipment. They are completely different surfboards either side of the stringer from the nose through to the tail including the fin set up. Different length, different volume rails… you name it. They are designed specifically for unique point breaks like the right-hander at Jeffreys Bay in South Africa. You don’t go left there unless you

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Mick Mackie Mackie Surfboards INTRO: Accomplished surfer, snowboarder, skateboarder and shaper. HAILS FROM: Cronulla, NSW NOW LIVES: Ulladulla, NSW SHAPING: 28 years since 1984 SHAPES: Hybrids, fishes, single fins, guns, asymmetricals and flextails.

ANOTHER SHAPER IMMERSED IN PROGRESSIVE DESIGN AND REVERED FOR CRAFTING INDIVIDUALISTIC BOARDS IS NSW SOUTH COAST SHAPER MICK MACKIE. Having honed his craft under industry legends Terry Fitzgerald and John Harris, Mick now shapes a diverse array of surfboards and like Mitchell Rae and Mark Rabbidge; he too has developed a very loyal following. However it’s Mick’s experimentation with flextails that has truly ignited his passion. Mick explains his newfound obsession. “I have gone off normal boards because they haven’t got the juice mate - the whip and the speed that the flex boards have. “I grew up riding shortboards but I kinda got sick of it and wanted to go somewhere else with it. So that is what I did. I started riding different stuff and feeling different things – chasing the feeling. “To me normal boards are a rigid dead object in the water, whereas the flex is bending and warping. It allows you to load it and release it. With a normal board it is almost like you are overpowering it to push it through the turns. With the flex you are running with the wave. You caress it through and let it run and it does it all for you.” HIS INSPIRATION “Alot of guys have played around with flextails but to me George Greenough and Mitchell Rae are the masters. “George was the man. He started it all. Sure a lot of people may say, ‘Oh he was just a kneeboarder.’ Watch the footage of him and freeze-frame it on the apex of his turns and see what he is doing.

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“I watched kneeboarders when I was a kid at Cronulla Point and Shark Island and the guys I watched there were pulling as heavy a line or more so. I was like, ‘Hang on, who are these guys.’ My mate’s dad rode flextail spoons so it was just normal stuff to me. It wasn’t anything outrageous or defunct. “You can learn from everything mate. I have kept it all in me head. Then when I went snowboarding I thought, “Now hang on - these boards flex. Well now I might do that... And put hard edges on my boards.” THE FUTURO ROCKET FISH With that, Mackie has taken his own innovative approach to flextails. He has used the Winterstick snowboard as the basis for his inspiration.

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LATEST: DEBATE Mick Mackie Photo: Dave Swan

“With a number of other flextails, the flex is only in the tail section of the board whereas with my Futuro Rocket Fish the flex is are under your entire back foot. These boards feature a really thin edge on the tail like a snowboard so when you are running your turns you have total bite. The sidecut creates real feeling in your turns and in fact accentuates them because you are following the same arc. “When you combine these elements and put heaps of pressure on the tail it will flex and shorten your tail rocker. This allows you to make tighter turns that you can then whip out of, or you can draw a long arc if you just hold it through the turns like you would with any fish.“

THE TAIL “The board also features a deep concave that compensates for the lessened floatation of a normal board. Because the last third of the board is so thin, the deep concave gives you lift and speed.

THE FINS

“My flextail is made from uni-directional carbon weave so it will flex both up and down as well as across the tail. It warps with the wave face. The board itself is an epoxy construction and is nice and thick because of the volume that has been removed from the tail. It makes the board easy to paddle and more lively.”

FUTURE PLANS FOR THE FUTURO

“The boards feature low profile keel fins which lessen drag and increase speed. The thin ‘snowboard-like rail’ lessens the need for high fins and heightens control.” “At this stage the Futuro Rocket Fish are just projects. They are my personal boards. I haven’t made them for anyone else. I just find nowadays I have to put flex in all of my own personal boards. That is just what I have arrived at for me.”

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Bushrat Surfboards INTRO: Dedicated craftsman and creator of the ‘Wave house’ as featured in the recent September edition of smorgasboarder. HAILS FROM: Merimbula, NSW NOW LIVES: Merimbula, NSW SHAPING: 22 years SHAPES: Reverse-curve flextails, performance shortboards, quads, guns, single fins, twin fins, performance mals, logs, finless creations and the signature model Derek Hynd classic keel-fin fish.

Jed ‘Bushrat’ Done Photo: Dave Swan

“For many years a lot of people thought I was a tripper. The flextail concept was just too much for the everyday surfer to take on board. Now there appears to be a newfound awareness and interest in flextails.” 96

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THE HUNDREDS OF BOARDS THROUGHOUT JED DONE’S WORKSHOP BEAR TESTAMENT HIS ABSOLUTE DEVOTION TO HIS CRAFT AND TO JED’S CONTINUAL EXPERIMENTATION WITH SURFBOARD DESIGN. Indeed his shed is littered with all manner of surfboards. But whilst he is constantly refining and perfecting his take on modern surfboard design, his efforts are largely concentrated on his flextails. He is particularly hooked to the speed they generate and the classic lines they draw. “For me, flextails go better than anything else. From punchy closeouts to point breaks you can’t beat flextails for speed off the mark. Normal boards just don’t work as well. “For many years a lot of people thought I was a tripper. The flextail concept was just too much for the everyday surfer to take on board. Now there appears to be a new-found awareness and interest in flextails.”

Why regular boards just don’t cut it “Regular boards just go slow. They push water. They turn because they bog. The hydrodynamics of their design are out of sync with the wave. “Flextails, more specifically those with a negative tail rocker where the tail of the board turns down, are speed machines.” THE THEORY BEHIND NEGATIVE ROCKER AND TAIL FLEX “Boards with negative tail rocker capitalise on the straight-line speed benefits of a board with minimal rocker, such as a classic single fin. The flex gives the board a variable tail rocker that twists and flexes into the shape of the wave when it is under load. It then springs back, giving you speed.

down so the board planes faster and greatly reduces the amount of water the board pushes. “As you turn the board, the fins hold the rail in the water, allowing your back foot to push against the flex, loading it into a positive position. Once your weight is transferred from rail to rail the resistance against the flex is reduced and the tail springs back into its unloaded negative position. This results in forward drive. Speed! “A first time rider of a flextail will feel a sensation of wanting to fall off the back of the board after every turn. It doesn’t take long to understand the way the board moves and work with it. But when you hop back on a regular board with positive tail lift you feel like the board bogs – like someone has tied a brick to your leg rope!” A DIFFERENT STYLE OF SURFING “Riding a flextail is all about flow, placement and timing. You want to complete each turn so you have that power drive as opposed to tictacking the board and creating sudden changes of direction. It is more about drawing clean lines and gathering momentum and speed. “Turns want to be linked. Flextails work best when the tail is continuously flexing from a negative to a positive rocker. They don’t lose track. The flextail likes to carve - like the line a single fin would take. It’s not like you flick off the back of a wave saying ‘Wow, I did five turns on that wave!’ It’s more like every turn on that wave is so linked that the whole thing feels like one big maneuver. “Flextails suit surfers with what you would call a ‘classic style’.”

“A reverse curve flextail has a negative tail rocker in its unloaded position. The tail actually turns down where the board flexes just behind the back fin. When you stand towards the back of the board, the board will level out to the angle the tail was in. It actually lifts the tail up, pushing the nose

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“The more positive tail lift you have on a board the looser it is, because more drag is created, which is what you get in the majority of modern boards. If you stand on a board with a lot of tail rocker, the nose will lift up and you will bog. The board is effectively looser but slower. Everything is a compromise. The problem is that half the time you’re trying to generate speed on a board that has a tail only designed to turn. “Conversely, an old single fin will glide through fat sections and trim faster than a regular tail lift surfboard because of its flatter tail rocker. But its weight, length, plan shape and rigid rocker often restrict it, making them hard to turn in the pocket.

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CHANNELING ENERGY TO THE TAIL “In addition to the flextail, I’ve been playing with a wedge-shaped stringer that I mill out of western red cedar. It’s between 15-18mm at the nose and 3-4mm by the time it gets right to the tip of the tail. The rationale behind it is to make the board stiffer at the front so it flexes evenly going out towards the tail. It will direct the energy towards the flextail further heightening the board’s performance and flow.”

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SOME SHAPERS HAVE STEERED AWAY FROM CONVENTIONAL WISDOM AND THINKING. GLENN ‘CAT’ COLLINS HAS SET SAIL ON HIS OWN DIRECTION AND IS OVER 2000 MILES OFF COURSE… WELL, FROM THE NORM THAT IS. As he so eloquently put’s it, as only Glen ‘Cat’ can, “F#*K everyone else, can we please just move forward. Everyone is experimenting but they are just recycling ideas rather than pushing the boundaries. It’s been done before. Move on! “I just want to blow minds. So many surfers are so close-minded these days I want to open their minds to different trips. If you know my whole history with boards my intention is just to f*#k with everything.”

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But there is method to his madness. Born and bred on Sydney’s Northern Beaches, Glen ‘cat’ starting surfing Freshwater Beach in the late ‘60s when his parents bought him a Midget Farrelly Pro Champ Foamie. By the late ‘70s his obsession with surfing grew and he took an interest to the shaping side of surfboards where he learnt the basics from Greg Clough at Aloha Surfboards in Brookvale. Glen ‘Cat’ later worked for McGrigor Surfboards before Sydney property prices skyrocketed and he moved north, first to Noosa and then to Agnes, where he set up his present day design lab. At this northern outpost of surfing on Australia’s eastern seaboard he ended up becoming neighbours with the equally talented and eccentric shaper, Erle Pederson. DESIGN PHILOSOPHIES

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“Most people who make surfboards have to make a living, now the unfortunate thing for them is they can only experiment within a bee’s dick here and there. With my clientele, they order the size of board they want and perhaps how many fins they are after and they have no say after that. They don’t get a choice in the colour. If they want it clear it is going to turn out multi-coloured. I handcraft one-off creations. I don’t shape normal. There are plenty of normal boards out there so those surfers can go find one.”

“Working with Erle, we kind of inspire each other. We are on the same page but then again we’re not. I will do sh*t that will inspire him to do sh#t and vice versa and so the cycle goes on. “With regards to Erle’s Jet Bottoms, I just find the more you f*#k with it the better it goes. It continues to evolve but the basic theory behind it is if you place a handful of marbles across the bottom of a board, they are going to skate in every direction possible. That is basically what happens with the Jet Bottom, it doesn’t matter where the channels are allocated, it still works. For a split second when water first hits a channel you may feel a sense of drag but once the action starts it busts the tension, releases and the board builds speed.” RAILS “No one surfs forehand and backhand the same. No two boards go the same. You are only using predominantly one side of the stringer so to speak. So my boards feature two totally different templates because I am right into asymmetrical boards. I like the longer rail for the forehand for down the line speed and the shorter rail on your backhand for cutbacks. You are only using the tail of the board on your backhand for cutbacks, hence the shorter rail line. You don’t need as much nose in the water. VOLUME “I have nose volume in my board for paddling power and a big arse platform for where you stand. The idea is that from the minute you get to your feet, you surf off that platform. You don’t shuffle here and shuffle there. “It’s part of the reason why I am such a fan of Geoff McCoy’s Lazor Zap. Every board should surf this way. The whole idea is you are surfing the tail end. The nose is irrelevant.” FINS “With every board I make, I try to get it to feel like a twin fin because I fully understand the feel of a twinnie and what the board is doing.”

DESIGN FEATURES - THE TEASPOON.

BUT EACH BOARD IS IN FACT A TRI FIN?

“Hold a teaspoon as lightly as you can with two fingers and bring it towards streaming tap water. You will notice the teaspoon suck in. Flip the spoon and it repels it.

“My tri fin doesn’t have the hang up of a thruster. It surfs like a twin fin but the back fin is just a stabiliser.

“By placing a small teaspoon like scoop between the fins it creates what I call a ‘bubble’ or air pocket under the board giving you traction. Too big a concave and the board becomes sticky. It will draw a really nice fast line but is hard to turn.”

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took me to Palm Beach and I saw a Jet Bottom on the wall of a local café and I just went, ‘Ohh, I want one of those.’ I never saw one again after that and low and behold, Erle ends up being my neighbour in Agnes.

JET BOTTOM CROSS CHANNEL “Erle is the inventor of the Jet Bottom. I remembered as a ten year old kid my mum

“I was sitting on my balcony at Agnes knocking back a tally and I looked up and saw all these dragonflies hovering. I could clearly see their wings. One wing is upright and the other one leans forward. I just went, ‘Ok, there’s a concept.’ “Now the fastest fin you can make is an upright fin. The more you tilt the fin the looser the board becomes but you have less drive. I thought about how I could best combine the two and the dragonfly gave me the solution. An upright fin for maximum drive and the side splayed fin to loosen

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Glenn ‘cat’ Collins Surf 1770 INTRO: Down-to-earth Aussie larrikin, mad-scientist, surfboard shaper HAILS FROM: Freshwater, NSW NOW LIVES: Agnes Water, Qld SHAPING: 30+ years SHAPES: Anything that’s not normal

Teaspoon

Jet Bottom

Glen ‘Cat’ Collins Photo: Dave Swan

SPYRAL Channel

the board up. The split fin also gives you the advantage of a wide-based fin for drive and speed but being split it aids maneuverability and ease of turning. And with my boards, no two foils are the same.” LAST ROUND As for how long Glenn ‘Cat’s’ boards must take to shape, glass and sand, his reply is to the point. “I just do it. Because the boards take so much time to make, it gives me further time to think. People say to me, ‘Ohh man, you are ahead of your time’ and I say, ‘Well I made it a year ago, so how can I be if I have already made it?’ “By the time I finish, I’m two to three creations ahead in my mind. I don’t see any wow factor in it because I have already done it and I am onto the next one.”

Glen ‘Cat’ style Tri-fins nov/dec 2011

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LATEST: DEBATE

AS FOR ‘OUT THERE’ THINKING, PAUL COLE HAS TAKEN A VERY SCIENTIFIC APPROACH. History is littered with philosophers, scientists and inventors who were ridiculed only to be later proven right, just think of people like Pythagoras (the earth is round) and the Wright Brothers (the flying machine) to name a few. It seems as humans we are often inclined to discredit ‘unconventional thinking’. To call people ‘crazy’ for having an idea that is different.

Paul Cole Inventor of the Fat Penguin Integrated Flow Form

INTRO: After 4 years building boards at home Bobby Brown landed Paul a job with Gordon & Smith in 1970. His first commercial success with the label was a 7’6” pin-nosed rounded pintail. HAILS FROM: Cronulla, NSW NOW LIVES: Cronulla, NSW SHAPING: Since the age of 14, some 46 years SHAPES: Fat Penguins

While a vast majority of revolutionary announcements from the fringes of science are questionable, we cannot discredit every one without investigation and debate. If we do, then we’ll certainly take our place among the ranks of naysayers who have delayed significant breakthroughs throughout history. Pursuing revolutionary advancements in science and technology can be like searching for diamonds hidden in sewage. But sometimes ‘lunacy’ can turn out to be a genuine cutting-edge discovery. Personally, I have the greatest respect and admiration for people who pursue their beliefs amidst public heckling and ridicule. Most people are afraid to think different, concerned with what others may think of them. If anything, Paul Cole has exhibited a great deal of guts and dogmatic determination to persevere. The pursuit of the flying surfboard The Wright Brothers invention of the ‘flying machine’ is particularly pertinent to this discussion. Five years after their first successful flight, and in spite of many public demonstrations, the Wright Brothers’ invention was still being ridiculed as a hoax in the press and scientific community. Being schooled in aeronautical engineering and highly skilled in the field of Flow Dynamics dealing with gases and fluids, Paul Cole first asked himself

Paul Cole and the Fat Penguin. Photo: Dave Swan 100

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back in 1988, ‘If an aeroplane can fly, why can’t a surfboard?’ He proposed that if planes can fly in gaseous fluid, then surfboards could fly in a dense fluid. Paul wondered if he applied some sophisticated flow principles to the current planing surfboard whether he may be able to create a pressure wave glider. His exploration began and some 24 years later and 56 prototypes along, his quest continues. LIMITATIONS OF CONVENTIONAL SURFBOARDS Paul explains the modern day shortboard and what he sees as its shortcomings. “They are super refined planing forms that have evolved from thousands of surfies’ attempts at what really works and millions of enthusiasts pushing the physical boundaries of surfing. Their advancement however has stagnated to a degree. “For me, I love power surfing and big waves. But surfboards, as planing forms, use less and less surface area as your speed increases. This is why when you hit critical speed, they become unwieldy and bounce everywhere. Big, long, sleek guns are great but their profile doesn’t enable you to make tight turns.“ WEIRD SCIENCE “The Fat Penguin is a new approach to surf craft design; a way of moving to a new level based on scientific principles and solid research into many related technologies. “To develop a new improved approach to surf craft design, I used research assembled from the fastest flow forms on the planet. I consolidated the profiles of aircraft including Mig Foxbat, F-16, SR 71 Blackbird and the J-39 Euro Jet. I next added profiles from the fastest bullet, Mako shark, Spanish mackerel, tuna, penguins and finally, 12 metre racing yachts. After two and a half years of assembling and crunching data, a commonality of flow forms emerged.

THE BIRTH OF THE FAT PENGUIN Aside from the scientific principles behind this design, we asked Paul the question of how he arrived at the name. “When I was researching flow forms and got to penguins, I found they can dive 600ft and hit 80kms an hour through the water. They fly like birds in the water. I found the trick to their efficiency is, when they are on land they appear quite pudgy and squat but when they hit the water they transform their body to a long streamlined shape which is quite pointy at the nose and gets wider at the back. Exactly the same shape as my surfboard.”

...all within walking distance

“The Fat Penguin is an Aquatic Glider with far higher lift/drag ratios then planning gliders, making it more efficient. An analogy would be to compare a paper kite to a glider.

3 min from Gold Coast airport free piCkup

“Aquatic gliders wrap the fluid over a lifting body. The wing section of the board works on the Bernoulli’s Principle where no water is wasted and instead of being thrown out the back of the board it wraps the flow onto the form (surfboard).”

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Now if you are anything like me, at this stage your eyes are starting to glaze over and you are saying, ‘What the …. is the Bernoulli’s Principle?’ Well here is what it is about; it works on the idea that as a wing passes through the air, its shape makes the air travel more over the top of the wing than beneath it. This creates higher pressure beneath the wing than above it. The pressure difference causes the wing to push upwards and lift is created. Bernoulli’s Principle

Hopefully you’re still with me. If not, read again, slowly...

6’6” tall, Paul ‘Spider’ Cole’s uniq

ue surfing style

“The hard science used to evolve the Fat Penguin project is the same as NASA and the Japanese aerospace engineers used in designing the first space shuttle and NASP pressure wave gliders. There is a mathematical formula to describe the flow shape that took

over two years to assemble using the theories of Archimedes, Newton, Freude, Reynolds, Chung, Burt, Rutan, and Helmholtz. This was a big headache to get through yet it was vitally important the core theory made the project sound.”

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More boards than you can poke a log at.

PERFORMANCE The all-important basis by which every successful experiment is measured is performance. ‘How does the Fat Penguin perform?’ “It paddles like any shortboard and duck dives easily but when you swing around and paddle for a wave it just lifts and goes. The latest incarnation of my Fat Penguin design, the 56th prototype, I have renamed the ‘Planet Smasher’ because that is what it does. It has no known speed limit. “Hawaiian big wave rider Wayne Hope says ‘With this board I destroy waves.’ Two former world champions have ridden the board but can’t be named because they were fearful of losing their sponsors. “You need to take a different approach to your surfing. If you grab the rails when you go to stand they will be sucked under the wings and you’ll be taken over the falls. You have to push up with your hands on the deck. From there the board just accelerates. To pick up speed on a normal board you must go up and down the wave face. “The Fat Penguins are very stable at high speed. Where a normal board goes out of control, it goes in control. It doesn’t stall in turns but actually accelerates.” CONSTRUCTION

s Harbour NSW 392 Harbour Drive, The Jetty Strip, Coff shack.com.au elog w.th ww Phone: 02 6658 0223

With so much going on and some nine integrated flow forms blended together, there is a fair bit of work to a Fat Penguin. 44 hours to be exact. And everything has to be done by hand from shaping and glassing to sanding. Dave and Jim at Jackson Surfboards are credited with this painstaking, meticulous craftsmanship. The boards are glassed a little heavier than normal to stand the rigours of testing and to ensure they do not react to chop at high speeds. FACT OR FICTION Just before going to print we got our hands on the 56th Fat Penguin -The Planet Smasher. Unfortunately the non-existence of waves on the Sunshine Coast over the past few weeks prohibited testing but stay tuned.

Final thoughts... Let’s celebrate diversity rather than conformity. After all, there is more than one way to ride a wave. Don’t dismiss or discredit an idea because it may be slightly left of centre. Consider the possibilities. Form your own opinion and don’t be swayed by surfing’s style gurus. After all, we all surf differently. The true essence of a waterman or woman is to ride everything and anything and how would you know what newfound pleasure you may uncover if you do not go exploring? For more innovative surfboard design and construction methods turn to page 158 of our Gear section.

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t in the old Coas G e th om Cross fr Clinton

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ES WHO Fins CAR

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YOU ARE)

NESS

REAT G F O T R FOR SO

NOVEMBER

NOBODY CLINTON CROSS

“GAS IS THE GO”

CLINTON CROSS

HOME BREAK: Burleigh Heads, QLD BOARD: SEL 5’6 Epoxy Wavehog FINS: GAS HPL Thruster FAVOURITE FOOD: Spaghetti BEST WEEKEND: Surfing from sunrise to sunset THE PHOTO: In Keramas in Bali, taken by my wife, Kari.

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Get in touch to try GASfins yourself. Quality and performance for your customers without the price tag for you. 0417 980 524 • gasfins@gmail.com nov/dec 2011 103

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TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP

VICTORIAN SHAPER AND SURFER JORDIE BROWN IS NO NEWBIE TO SURF TRAVEL, BUT IF YOU LOOK HARD ENOUGH, THERE’S ALWAYS SOMETHING NEW TO DISCOVER, HE FINDS. ON THE WAY TO ENJOY SOME OF THE GREAT WAVES OF INDONESIA IN THE MENTAWAIS, HE TOOK A LITTLE DETOUR ON A PATH LESS TRAVELLED...

Padang: exploring the gateway WORDS & PHOTOS: JORDIE BROWN

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TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP So, here we are on our on the first leg of our six-month journey travelling and surfing around Asia, this is the first stop - Padang, the capital of the West Sumatra province. Still recovering from the 2009 earthquake that devastated the city and surrounding villages, Padang is a far cry from the tourist towns you often see in brochures and displays a strong sense of identity and culture, relatively untouched by the almighty western tourist dollar. For most surfers chasing an Indonesian surfing adventure Padang is no more than an overnight stop before embarking on a chartered boat trip to the Mentawais Islands. This was certainly not the case for my travelling and surfing buddies Brendan Jenkins, Jimmy Weigall and me. While searching for the cheapest alternative to get to the surrounding islands we found 106

ourselves exploring an area that only a small handful of backpackers, let alone surfers, find themselves in. As we boarded the small jet flying from Malaysia to Padang we were surrounded by western surfers, all with the same encyclopaedic knowledge of the breaks around the Mentawais and armed with ten-day surf forecasts of what breaks would work and when. I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t help but wonder if our lack of organisation would end up being a huge headache and, even worse, result in days lost, not scoring waves. As soon as we made our way through customs and out the front door of the airport our group was clearly heading along a different path to all our fellow surfers. They were quickly ushered into pre-booked, air-conditioned surf tour vans, while BJ, Jimmy and I were left bargaining with the local cab drivers for a ride to the cheapest

hotel we could find in the area. As the taxi ducked and weaved through the mid morning traffic to the loudest, and only, Indonesian techno I had ever heard, we got our very first glance of Padang itself. Smog, traffic and all the madness of a busy city flew by as we sat speechless, crammed in the back of a small taxi with all our boards and gear. What had we got ourselves into? After booking into a small budget hotel we spend our first day in Indonesia recovering from a slight bout of jetlag, finding our bearings and working out what the hell to do next. That night, whilst trying to figure out the best way to the Mentawai Islands without going down the road of a chartered tour, we heard word of a couple of surfable waves not far away. So, the next morning couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t arrive soon enough for our first chance to explore!

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FAR LEFT: Cheap transport to Air Manis. LEFT: GIving the Alaia a go. BOTTOM LEFT: All the travel essentials MIDDLE: Flying past the sights of Padang at top speed RIGHT: Ding repairs, Indo-style

“Even the occasional mouthful of seawater that tasted like a shot of ripe bin juice, or the odd chip packet that stuck to your back while duck diving wasn’t anywhere near enough to dampen our stoke.”

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TOP: The dawn surf check LEFT: Small but playful waves proved to be plenty of fun

A couple of local grommets claimed they knew of waves that were within a short ride on the back of a motor bike. After haggling for the cheapest way to get from our hotel to the surf, we jumped on the back of three mopeds for 50,000rp - about $5.50 Australian. With boards under our arms we took off into the madness of peak hour Padang traffic to Air Manis beach. The quickest way was through a mountain track no more than a metre wide. The path off the main road weaved through an urban sprawl of shacks and small homes into the jungle. As the driver dodged dogs, goats, chooks and the other odd motorist that came flying past, I simply just held on for dear life with one hand as the other went numb with the weight of my board, taking in the sights as locals went about their daily lives throughout these small back alleys.

“ The 3ft swell lines were rolling in, breaking up into peaks then wedging as they hit the shore, and all this with only three local grommets out.” Seeing as just about everyone we had talked to since arriving in Padang said there were no surfable waves in the area, we weren’t really expecting much. But when we made our way down from the hills, the small stretch of beach at Air Manis seemed to be drawing in the small bits of swell that the islands hadn’t been able to block. Although there was a light onshore breeze, there were some seriously playful 2ft, black sand bottom beach breaks to be had. Even the occasional mouthful of seawater that tasted like a shot of ripe bin juice, or the odd chip packet that stuck to your back while duck diving wasn’t anywhere near enough to dampen our stoke. It was just good to be getting wet after three days in airports, planes and cheap motels. While sharing the little fun session with two friendly locals they recommended that we head down early in the following morning on the higher tide and before the onshore wind kicked in. First thing the next day the air was still and the ocean calm as we headed back over the mountain pass towards Air Manis beach. As we made our way down to the water we could see the swell had picked up a foot or two and the sets seemed to be rolling through more regularly than our session the afternoon before. The waves were nothing

like the 8ft heaving indo reef breaks you see in magazines, however the punchy 3ft beach break was perfect for a play around on a little quad-fin fish. With not another westerner in sight we shared the morning surfing with a handful of friendly local shredders, clocking up a good four-hour session in the unexpected wedges. The wind finally turned and we made our way back to the small hotel to rest before exploring the beaches south on foot. The 10km stretch adjacent to the city of Padang had small rock groynes laying about 50m apart, and although the swell was small you could see the potential the setup had. About 20 minutes walk from the town centre we found a more than rideable wave in the corner of one of the larger rock walls. Sitting at a small stall as the sun was setting, eating a feed of nasi goreng while watching 2ft grinding peelers, we made up our minds to head back down there at the first signs of swell. In the meantime we were more than happy to fill in the days surfing Air Manis early before the wind picked up, helping local grommets patch up their boards and then finish by sitting out over one of the many rock groins having dinner at our favourite restaurant - run entirely by one little old lady while our imaginations ran wild watching the knee high, 20m long, spitting barrels breaking left and right of either side of the groynes. Our final day in Padang started the same as every other day, waking to the sound of Islamic prayers from the small mosque that shared a wall with our shoebox sized room. I made my way down to check the conditions as the sun rose. To my surprise we finally got that little kick in the swell we had been waiting for, just enough for the rock groyne right-hander we had stumbled across earlier in the week to have some potential for waves. Far too excited to take the 20 minute walk through the city, BJ, Jimmy and I lashed out and spent 10,000rp (just over $1 Australian for the three of us) and crammed in to the small local minivan. We got dropped meters from our rock groyne of choice. Just as we had hoped, the surf looked the goods. The 3ft swell lines were rolling in, breaking up into peaks then wedging as they hit the shore, and all this with only three local grommets out. The session turned out to be a more fun then a barrel of monkeys as we all slotted into our share of wedgy sand bottom kegs. As stoked as we were going wave for wave with the three howling local groms, I couldn’t help but be saddened experiencing how polluted there water was. You can’t help but wonder what the future holds for coastal communities throughout Indonesia if they nov/dec 2011

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LEFT: Jimmy and some stoked locals

E S P

“It was refreshing spending time amongst the small local surfing community that wanted nothing more than to be our mates and share the stoke.”

keep treating the oceans and waterways like a garbage tip. Where once the locals threw the banana leaves that contained the food into the water, they now throw plastics bags and foam containers that will float in the ocean and litter the beaches for thousands of years to come. The only real way forward is education. It makes you appreciate how conscientious we are in Australia with our waste.

www.espsurfshop.com.au www.edsinnott.com.au 0404 059 321

Although the waves we scored in our week in Padang were only a small taste for the trip to come in the Mentawais, it turned out to be a worthy start to our journey. Everywhere we went smiles and friendly faces greeted us. It was refreshing spending time amongst the small local surfing community that wanted nothing more than to be our mates and share the stoke. Asking for money or pressuring us into buying something never even crossed their minds. In the shadow of one of the best surfing locations in the world we found something we had never expected to find - a more than rideable wave, and a handful of super-stoked surfers that, despite the language barrier, really did become our mates. These days it’s really easy to jump on the net and book a trip to a world class wave where you more often than not wind up surfing with just as many westerners as back home and perhaps be missing out on some true adventure you experience when you travel. You should never be scared to wing it a little… You never know what you might find.

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S Y D N E Y â&#x20AC;&#x2122; S

N O R T H E R N

B E A C H E S

TRUE NORTH The next 40-odd pages... Our tribute to the people, places, surfing and spirit of the Northern Beaches of Sydney. WORDS: BEN HORVATH

Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au 112

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP nov/dec 2011

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP

CAN YOU HAVE IT ALL? Beautiful beaches, top shelf entertainment, celebrity neighbours, excellent coffee, beautiful people, nightlife, thirty kilometres of consistent surf breaks, a choice of talented shapers on your doorstep, beachbreaks, reefs, points... All this within one of the top ten most liveable cities in the world. It seems like you can have it all if you’re fortunate enough to be a resident of Sydney’s Northern Beaches. Though infintely far removed from the small-town surf vibe to be found elsewhere along the New South Wales coast, it’s very comforting to find you don’t require a pencil moustache, slickback and your girlfriend’s jeans to feel welcome. In fact, many of the city mice are just as laid back as the country mice. Southsider, Ben Horvath, ventures up beyond the highrises of the CBD to discover even more of what makes this stretch so unique.

IT’S A ME S GA NUMfBcEoaRstline, 30+ worlddd

30kms o rd shapers, 20-o e fboa class sur and about the sam s , k s a e e r r surf b urf sto f quality s amount o e’s plenty for the er means th g surfer. visitin

TOP LEFT: Where we all want to be - on the inside looking out. Jules Phillips, oceaneye.com. TOP RIGHT: Queenscliff from North steyne. Jules Phillips, oceaneye.com. MAIN: Individual style... Religious pose on the nose. Joel Coleman, saltmotion.com.au nov/dec 2011

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DID YOU KNOW?

d lister pioneere Snowy McA aches Be n er th or N the boardriding on to be first Australian e th as w d an l of al H ng the Surfi inducted into eat gr e th d ge id br Fame. He also g in av n the lifes divide betwee s. er scene and surf

Looking into the bowl at Winki Pop (Fairy Bower) from afar looks mellow. Negotiating a late drop to get into the bowl isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t. Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au 116

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP

THE LAY OF THE LAND The north side of Sydney is arguably unmatched by a city surfing environment anywhere else on the planet. Manly, which lies on the northern side of the entrance to Sydney Harbour, is the first and southernmost of eighteen surf beaches on Sydney’s north shore, where tall Norfolk pines often filled with chirping rainbow lorikeets line the beachfront. A narrow strip of land separates the ocean and the calm waters of the harbour to the south, while thirty-odd kilometres to the north lies Palm Beach and the entrance to Broken Bay - the gateway to Pittwater and the Hawkesbury River, an expanse of water that separates the northern beaches from the Central Coast of NSW. Vast areas of National Park, bushland and of course the harbour, Pittwater and the Pacific contribute to keeping the populated urban environment looking and feeling uniquely cruisey. A combination of well maintained beachside car parks, contemporary coastal landscaping and in most instances tastefully developed low-density housing blends in with the natural environment. The succession of fine, sandy beaches is punctuated by protective sandstone headlands. The sand is yellow/white in the south, becoming progressively more golden as you travel north up towards “The Bends” of The Peninsula. The Northern Beaches or more specifically, Manly, was earmarked for a beachside tourist destination not long after the colonial settlers first arrived in Sydney. However, it wasn’t until 1854 – more than 60 years after Captain Arthur Phillip visited and named Manly in recognition of a group of “Manly” Guringai Aboriginals who waded out to his ship – that the first day trippers began making their way by ferry from Sydney Cove to the Northern Beaches. Despite the visitors, legal daytime bathing wasn’t allowed until 1903. The replacement of the old wooden punt over Middle Harbour with the first Spit Bridge in 1924 saw a significant increase in tourists to the area. And increased it has. These days, over 6 million visitors a year from all over the world enjoy the unique urban, surf, sun, sand and bush experience that Sydney’s Northern Beaches offer. The region is renowned for great food, nightlife and a sense of safe family and community living. The beaches are well serviced by bus and ferry transportation, though the problematic traffic bottleneck at The Spit Bridge through Mosman and Neutral Bay for the thousands of regular city commuters has been the subject of much community angst for decades now. The lack of a train line servicing the beaches does tend to keep the number of inland hordes from Sydney’s west and south western suburbs to a minimum and that’s the way the locals like it. The Northern Beaches vibe, whilst busy and quite crowded in parts, is mostly relaxed and comfortable.

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BACK IN

THE DAY

Duke Kahanaamoku formally introduced surfboard riding to Australia on Sydney’s Northern Beaches on Sunday, 15 January 1915 at Freshwater Beach just north of Manly on a board he made from sugar pine.That moment, most would agree, cemented Sydney’s Northern Beaches as the spiritual, creative and competitive birthplace of Australian surfing.

COMPETITION WAS FIERCE... Ever since Bernard “Midget” Farrelly became the first Australian to win a world surfing title in front of over 60,000 surf fans at Manly in 1964, competitions have been held regularly in the consistent surf of the north. The list of world champions and influential surfers raised in the region goes on and on, reading like a who’s who of the most famous household names such as Midget Farrelly, Nat Young, Tom Carroll, Damien Hardman, Barton Lynch, Simon Anderson, Martin Potter, Pam Burridge, Layne Beachley and many more, such as shaper Mark Rabbidge and even the eccentric Glen ‘Cat’ Collins. The 2SM Coca Cola Surfabout was based at Narrabeen from 1974 to 1991, but often moved to nearby beaches, wherever the waves were best. The event also reads like a roll-call of surfing royalty, with surfers like Wayne Lynch and Larry Blair trading tubes at North Steyne in the infamous 1978 final. The likes of Michael Peterson, Mark Richards, Rabbit Bartholomew, Cheyne Horan, Michael Ho, Larry Bertleman and Peter Townsend surfed against Northern Beaches legends like Mark Warren, Simon Anderson, Terry Fitzgerald, Col Smith and Russell Lewis to name but a... phew. There was and will always be a multitude of events in the area with traditionally strong boardriders clubs like Newport, Narrabeen, QBC, Mona Vale, Curl Curl and North Steyne maintaining a strong competition focus.The north is still very much a hotbed of grass roots and professional surfing talent. 118

ABOVE: The statue of The Duke stands tall above Freshwater, where it all began back in 1914, and RIGHT: Looking down the line. Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au

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AN UNDERCURRENT

OF CREATIVITY While the Northern Beaches are traditional blue ribbon conservative held seats, with middle to upper class residents in pockets of uber expensive real estate, as John Witzig said in Bombora, “There has always been an underlying vibe of rebellion meets creativity within the Northern Beaches surfing community.” Many artists have made these waves their playground, specifically in the surf arena Vampirate Surfboards’ Ozzie Wright and artaholic Caspain De Looze who has created artwork on surfboards for the likes of Pink and Metallica. The music pedigree is rock solid to boot. Little Pattie’s debut single “He’s My Blonde-Headed, Stompie-Wompie, Real Gone Surfer Boy”, surfaced in the final months of Sydney’s surfmusic craze at the tail end of 1963, just as Beatlemania was starting to stir. Artists like Little Pattie and The Atlantics prompted the sixties northern beaches surf club stomp craze. The Atlantics, and later the likes of the Sunsets - the band who later evolved into Tamam Shud who recorded the epic soundtrack for Morning of The Earth - were arguably Sydney’s first surf bands. The turn on, tune in, drop out era of the late 60s to mid 70s, when Tamam Shud and similar psychedelic tunes dominated kombi cassette players, soon evolved into the more aggressive guitar rock of the late 70s and early 80s. Midnight Oil ruled the Northern Beaches for well over a decade. Their shows at The Narrabeen Antler in the early 80’s are the stuff of legend. In the mid to late 80s Northern Beaches-based surfers fronted a host of touring surf punk bands. Manly

artist Ben Brown fronted The Hellmen, North Steyne speed guitarist Brett Currota was the driving force behind Mass Appeal, Mark “Bird” Nowane was the lead singer of Newport based World War 24 and the Celibate Rifles frontman Damien Lovelock also called Newport home between tours. In the 90s Pico and some of Andrew Kidman’s mellower incarnations were influential, whilst so far this century Ozzie Wright and Vaughan Blakey’s Goons Of Doom, Mat McHugh and The Beautiful Girls, Angus and Julia Stone’s cruisy, rock folk and Rob Hirst’s The Break are names synonymous with the Northern Beaches music scene. In Sydney’s live music heyday of the 80s and 90s, when pub rock was at the height of popularity, iconic northern beaches venues like The Antler - renamed The Sands - regularly hosted Oz rock greats like Radio Birdman, Midnight Oil, The Sunnyboys and INXS, to name a few. Dee Why Hotel welcomed the likes of Johnny Rotten’s PIL, The Hard Ons, and The Hoodoo Gurus, whilst legendary US punkers The Dead Kennedys played both The Manly Vale Hotel and The Antler. The Mosman Hotel was the premier punk venue north of the bridge, featuring underground acts like Box Of Fish, The Kelpies, X, Positive Hatred, Itchy Rat, The Scientists and more. These days The Manly Boatshed and Harbord RSL also fly the live music flag. A large percentage of the Australian surf media was, and still is, based on the Northern Beaches. The original Tracks office was at Whale beach, Surfing World magazine too was born on the northern beaches. Late last year the new Coastalwatch and Surfing World joint headquarters moved into the old Quiksilver building on Pittwater Road at Avalon. World class artists, photographers and journalists grew up or re-located to the region to embed themselves in the culture, industry, their chosen lifestyle and careers. There is no shortage of talent on this side of Sydney.

LEFT: Mat McHugh - Northern Beaches surfer, muso and nice bloke. 120

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South Narrabeen or The Gardens as it was once known, has a general tendency to close out. However in peaky E or NE swells it can turn on some uncrowded tunnels. Jay Taplin. Photo Alex Marks/bluesnapper.com.au 122

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP

SURF...

THERE’S SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE The mid-latitude geographical position of Sydney’s northern beaches means the region experiences quite regular swell activity from all directions, whether that be cyclone season-generated north’s, mid winter southern Tasman groundswells or local southeast or northeast wind swells. Sydney’s north side certainly doesn’t lack variety. There are countless fun, peaky beachies that offer protection from all winds with waves for all levels. There’s several hectic, hollow reef breaks for the hardcore, and a bunch of mellower longboard waves for cruisers and beginners. Good wind protection from most southerlies can be sought out at South Palm Beach, South Avalon, Warriewood, Collaroy, Dee Why and Manly through Nth Steyne and Queenscliff, while Barrenjoey, Whale Beach, North Avalon, Bungan, Bilgola, Mona Vale, Narrabeen, Long Reef, North Curl and Freshwater are all fairly sheltered in the prevailing summer nor’easters. January through to July is generally regarded as the best time for waves. Post-July, the winter south swells often leave the banks in disarray for a month or two, before the gentle localised late spring SE to NE windswells start to reshape the banks just in time for the late summer/autumn north swell season.

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Mansions in the background, empty perfection in the foreground. Palm Beach. Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au

The far Northern stretch is home to arguably the most picturesque beaches in the country. The breaks, North to South..

Palm Beach is

probably best known for its luxuriously expensive houses and as the location for the successful Australian TV drama series Home and Away. The southern corner from Elephant Rock south offers plenty of shelter from southerly winds and swells. It can be fun in peaky ENE swells and Sth wind combo’s, or otherwise the northern end can be fun and relatively uncrowded in small, peaky swells and offshore wind combos. Occasionally Barrenjoey can turn on in larger ENE 124

swells depending on sand formations, whilst Kiddies Corner at South Palm Beach can actually have a fun, protected right-hander during howling southerlies when the sand’s in on the pool. In the north corner of

Whale Beach

lays The Wedge. Given a swell with some component of E, combined with a W to NE wind you can score some quality waves. It’s called The Wedge because it peaks up off the rocks and lets loose with a powerful slingshot style lefthander - not a long wave, but intense. At the

point of take off the wave at The Wedge can be twice the size of the swell hitting other nearby beaches. South Whale can also occasionally offer decent right-handers in a S swell if the sands in.

Avalon is a pretty

consistent beach that can work in N,E or S swells. There’s a variety of options, generally packing a bit of punch. In longer period E or NE swells North Avalon can produce mental lefts that rifle down the beach. In a S swell, South Avalon can also deliver quality rights that wall up, or occasionally barrel over a patchy, sand

covered rock platform. Last but not least there’s Little Avalon, a right bowl dominated by local crew that breaks on a shallow rock platform at the base of the cliff at South Avalon.

Bilgola

can occasionally produce fun, semi uncrowded waves. It offers great protection from the prevailing summer NE sea breeze, but the banks often tend to be a little straight. Best in peaky E or NE swells or smallish shorter period south’s with W to NW winds.

Bungan is an open,

generally less crowded beach break because crew are often too lazy to walk down the hill. Often windy, but occasionally mindblowing, you really have to live local to monitor the bank quality. Generally best in peaky E or NE swells and W to NNE winds, every now and then it can turn on in S swells too. The southern end is home to Rockpools, a fickle sand-onrock set up that has its days. Generally locals only.

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Newport boasts a

variety of options, though none as consistently reliable as its Avalon neighbour. The Peak at the northern end can produce quality, sucky lefts and rights that are fun as, because there’s often a solid A-frame peak generating power. Occasionally, in longer period E or NE swells, you could luck into a decent left off the northern headland at Newport, but The Peak is the most consistent wave. The Peak generally works in a variety of swell directions up to 5 or 6ft and the wave quality is not necessarily

North Narrabeen lining up. Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au

Our happy tip: Mona Vale always has a great, friendly vibe in the surf. destroyed by onshore winds. In fact, it can be fun in a light SE/NE wind. At the southern end of Newport you can have an ok surf off the pool or reef. The Reef is best in east or NE swells and a W to S wind. The Pathway outside is a fickle reef best left to the locals who put in the time waiting for the rare days when the elements align.

Mona Vale

tends to be at its best in late summer/autumn or early winter E or NE swells with W to NE winds. In a long period E or NE, or even

peaky northerly swell, lefts will run down the beach, producing long rides that can occasionally be epic.

Warriewood

offers pretty good protection from fresh southerly winds. It will often be one of the last places offering sheltered rideable waves in a howling southerly. Decent, though sometimes wonky righthanders break close to the cliff base and run up the beach. Although rarely epic, Warriewood often offers fun runners, when most other northern beaches are a windblown write off. Surfable in solid S swells or

small to medium E or even NE swells with W to SE winds.

North Narrabeen is

arguably the best beach break in Sydney, especially in an E or NE swell combined with W to N winds. Narrabeen Lake spills into the ocean in the corner by the pool at North Narrabeen, generally ensuring a stable, shallow V bank set up. There’s the famous long, hollow, left, that bowls and runs, the inside Alley right, and the more fickle Car Park Right that can deliver tubes in Sth

swells. Although it can cope with a light onshore wind, it gets ugly in strong south swells and accompanying southerly winds. North Narrabeen’s place in Australian surfing folklore is well documented, whilst its list of local world champions is longer than most surfing nations, let alone individual beaches. Try and surf it in a low key swell, when it isn’t all-time, so it’s less crowded and you may have fun. Blow in at North Narrabeen on a perfect 5-6ft plus E or NE swell with favorable

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Queenscliff turns on and (right) cruise control meets black rubber soul at Dee Why Point. Ian Bird, ianbird.com.au

“April, May and a bit of June. ...These months are generally best in these parts” Tim Hanrahan, Aloha

W to N winds and you’ll be waiting in line with current ASP pros, retired pros, local legends, industry gurus and a major contingent of next-gen Northy groms. Narrabeen is most definitely the most protected, localised set up on the northern beaches, so if visiting, paddle out and respect the pecking order or risk being heckled.

South Narrabeen is

often a straight hander, but occasionally in peaky NE swells or even chunky longer period E or NE swell it can turn on some super hollow board-snapping slabs. Best in W to SSW wind.

Collaroy is a bit of a

wonky, last resort surf spot in a very big S swell or NE swell/S wind combo. There are some good waves off the outer reefs on the northern side of the headland, and even off the tip of Long Reef headland, but you really have to do the time and be familiar with local idiosyncrasies. I’ll leave the lesser known spots to the likes of the experienced local crews that tow-in out there when it gets bigger.

The southern side of

Long Reef has a

bunch of options that work best in south swells. It’s offshore in a W to N wind and is also protected in a NE wind. The standout factor at Long Reef is that generally at the point of take off, the peak is up to twice the size of any comparable wave hitting Sydney’s northern beaches in a S swell. The main Long Reef Bombie is a good left and right peak, but it can be very shifty. The wave also breaks across a large surface area with more wave face than bowl to work with. Having said that, it is a fun wave, generally best on the dropping tide. There are also one or two well known big wave bombies offshore on the southern side of Long Reef but again they are best left to experienced crew that put in the time mastering them. South of Long Reef is a stretch of beach known as

No Man’s Land,

that can produce quality. However, you have to constantly observe the sand, tide etc. to score. Best in small to med S swells and N winds.

Dee Why Point

is a ledging, sometimes seriously sucky wave that breaks on a series of submerged rock ledges not too far from the exposed rock platform. Dee Why can be a frustrating point/reef break at times, not only because it has quite a small take off zone, but also because there can be backwash, the odd close out and of course crowds. The local crew instinctively know where to position themselves and of course dominate. Best in medium 4 to 6ft SE or even E swells with W or SW winds. Surfable in bigger S swells and S wind too. .

Dee Why

serves up some quite consistent beach breaks best in small to medium S or SE swells and NW to SSW winds.

Curl Curl

picks up swell from both the north and south. Curl Curl works best in NW to SW winds, but the northern end of Curly is also reasonably protected in a northeast wind. Good peaky beachy that can suffer from backwash at times. Quite a swell magnet.

Queenscliff picks

up a lot of E and N swell and works best on a west to southwest wind. It can produce hollow lefthanders that can run down the beach towards Nth Steyne in NE swells. Sometimes surfable in S swells too, but it does have a tendency to close out in S. Half a kilometre or so offshore lies the infamous Queenscliff Bombora – best in clean, long – period E or ENE swells and light offshore winds.

North Steyne is

just down the beach from Queenscliff. It also produces good lefts as well as peaky rights. North Steyne is quite protected in a southerly wind and can occasionally be ok in large S swell/S wind weather combos. However it’s at its best in peaky E or NE swells and W to SW/S wind.

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been, hen yo respect u paddle out, the pec k or risk f alling o ing order u t of fa with th e locals vour .

Fairy Bower

is a unique right reef-break that works best in E to NE swell and W to S wind direction. It’s a decent performance wave with plenty of wall that holds size, but can be fickle. A big southerly swell generally marches straight past up the coast, missing the inside reef. This definitely requires an element of E or even NE in the swell, best on a low to medium incoming tide. Around the front of The Bower, Winki Pop is a full blown bowl that picks up some SE swell, and further around again, Deadmans is a serious slab for experienced crew only in massive southerly swells.

South Steyne or Manly is really

sheltered in howling southerly winds. Fun beachies in peaky ENE swell/ S wind combo’s or a last resort in massive S swells.

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DIV ISION

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP PHOTO: Bob Weeks, 1963. Supplied courtesy of the Surf City Exhibition

GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS

The Northern Beaches has always been at the forefront of surfboard design, performance and retail. Starting all the way back to the Duke’s sugar pine creation in 1915, pioneering shapers like Bennett, Woods, Keyo and Farrelly picked up the torch and the innovations continued through the 60s short board revolution through the 80s - including Simon Anderson’s Thruster breakthrough in fin design. Shane Stedman’s Shane, Col Smith’s Morning Star, Terry Fitzgerald’s Hot Buttered, Greg Clough’s Aloha, Steve Zoeller and Simon’s Energy and many other iconic labels were all, or still are, based in the industrial zones of Brookvale or Mona Vale. The 80s surfboard and surf industry boom paved the way for a new generation of shapers, crew like Brett Warner, Hayden Cox, Dave Wood, Mike Psilakis, Mark Gnech, Blake Peters, Luke Short and Lee Stacey to just name a few. On the retail side, there’s no shortage of options for getting surf gear on the Northern Beaches either. There’s standout hardware stores, shops like Aloha, Manly Surfboards and Dripping Wet at Manly and North Manly, Wicks at Collaroy, Raised By Wolves at Mona Vale and Avalon, where you’ll also find Beach Without Sand. There are dozens of quality stores that stock surfboards and surf supplies for all shapes and diverse tastes. In our travels, we’ve had the privilege to meet many of these local shapers and retailers who have taken time out of their busy days to chat with us. We ask them about what makes the Northern Beaches so special and how they cater for the many surfers who live here and the visitors that descend en masse to this great stretch of coastline.

SURFI LIVING H NG’S IS Bob We eks’ 196 TORY 3

image o North N f a one of m rabeen Surf Clu the b is any trea sures cu on displa rren y Sydney’s at the Museum tly of Surf Cit y Exhib See ww w.hht.ne ition. for more t.au .

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HATS OFF TO THE PIONEERS A true pioneer of the surfboard manufacturing industry is Barry Bennett who, in the early 1950s, began manufacturing hollow plywood surfboards and skis as a part-time business at his mother’s house in Waverly, in Sydney’s Eastern suburbs. By the mid-1950s, following the introduction of the short 10’6” plywood hollow Malibu, Barry had moved to the north side of the harbour and was making boards on a full time basis, averaging around five per week. By 1958, board production numbers had risen to an average of ten custom orders per week, produced out of the factory at Harbord, near Freshwater Beach. Bennett Surfboards Pty Ltd was formed in 1960. With surfboards originally built from plywood, the company responded to pressures to produce foam blanks and subsequently built the first factory exclusively for the manufacture of surfboards and blanks on Harbord Road, Brookvale. With five employees - all top surfers of that era - production numbers rose to forty-five boards per week using polyurethane blanks moulded on the Harbord premises. Balsa was soon phased out of production. During it’s initial years the company remained one of the only surfboard manufacturers in the country. 1962 saw the formation of Dion Chemicals, a division of Bennett Surfboards, which still to this day is responsible for the manufacturing of high quality polyurethane foam surfboard blanks, as well as importing and supplying high quality resins and other materials to local and overseas markets. The company currently is considered to be one of the three main suppliers of surfboard blanks in the world with Burford Blanks (Queensland, Australia) and US Blanks (California, USA). In 2005 Barry Bennett was inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame and in 2009 was the first Australian to be welcomed to the Californian Surfing Hall of Fame for his contribution to the sport globally. At 80 years of age, Barry is a highly respected figure within the surfboard manufacturing industry. Still today, he can be found working, blowing blanks in the Brookvale factory and is still the Managing Director of the company. Bennett Surfboards has been in the surfboard business longer than any other Australian manufacturer. It is very much a family business. Barry’s sons Greg and John along with sister Kathy work hard in the business. Greg said, “The Isaac Fields 9’2” or 9’4” x 23 ½” x 3 ¼“ noserider shaped by Peter Stockert is the most requested model at the moment, closely followed by a new all-round performance model.” Along with a consistent demand for mini mals and longboards Greg said, “We have always maintained strong roots in the Surf Life Saving environment. “We continue to supply heaps of paddle and rescue boards to overseas and local clubs.The Bennett name is highly valued amongst the Surf Life Saving fraternity and many Australian and 130

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP World Titles have been won on Bennett boards in the last 40 plus years.” Another stalwart of the surf industry in and around the Northern Beaches is Ron Wade. Ron first began shaping back in 1964 with Dale Surfboards in Brookvale before starting up his own business, Ron Wade Surfboards, in 1967. He later opened retail stores in Collaroy Beach and on the Gold Coast. Through the late 60s and into the 70s he had some of the hottest young surfing talents either surfing for him and/or working at the factory - names such as Richard Harvey, Ted Spencer, Bruce Channon, Col Smith, Tony Dempsey, Ian Goodacre, Rob Stainford and Colin Gow, to name a few. Ron retired from the surf industry in 1978 to pursue a career in real estate. It was only after many requests from local surfers still fond of his craftsmanship that he decided to start making boards again in recent years. To this day he shapes a broad range of performance shortboards through to funboards, mals and customs. Ron has always been a Northern Beaches boy and heavily involved in the Mona Vale Boardriders Club. In fact he has lived at the same house in Mona Vale right near the beach since 1952 when he was only 5 years of age. “The surf has changed through the years with progress – the buildings affect wind conditions and the like – but the place is still special and it is home. “When I started surfing here, boards were 9’3” with a ½” cedar stringer and heavy. It was the pioneering days and foam was ‘new’.

“BY THE ‘70S A NEW BREED OF CARRYING THE FLAME ‘70s a new breed of shapers had moved in on SHAPERS HAD MOVED IN ON THE BythetheNorthern Beaches surf scene. A name synonymous with this era was Terry Fitzgerald. After learning his NORTHERN BEACHES SURF SCENE” craft at Joe Larkin’s surfboard factory on the Gold Coast TOP LEFT: Bennett surfboards make up part of the display at the Surf City exhibition. Photo: Bruce Usher BOTTOM LEFT: Early Ron Wade ad featuring surfboard, Ron, and a young Richard Harvey. ABOVE: Terry Fitzgerald and his quiver, 1977. Photo: Mcleod-Aitionn, courtesy of Surf City RIGHT: The classic Barry Bennett ‘Running Man’ logo and surfboard decal.

working alongside the likes of Peter Drouyn, Peter Townend, Michael Peterson and Bob McTavish, he set up Hot Buttered Surfboards in a dilapidated old house in Brookvale.

As a surfer, Terry Fitzgerald was a man that could ride any wave in the world on his own craft with an amazing amount of speed and flair. As a shaper, he was one of the men behind the introduction of the spiral vee and wings into surfboard design of the time. Along with these unique design features his boards became widely known for their psychedelic sprays by the equally talented Martin Worthington. nov/dec 2011

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So many famous names worked for Hot Buttered through the years, guys like Simon Anderson, Col Smith, Derek Hynd and Greg Webber. Around this same time, another talented shaper emerged having first started shaping in the backyard shed of his parent’s house at age 13. Peter Daniell set up Daniell Surfboards in a shop/factory in Waterloo Street in Narrabeen and another shop in St Ives.

“I HAVE BEEN LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE SOME REALLY GREAT, LOYAL PEOPLE WORK WITH ME OVER THE YEARS” PETER DANIELL - DIVISION SURF

Photos of Peter Daniell courtesy of Division Surf

Years later he moved the factory from Narrabeen to Duffy’s Forest and then to Polo Avenue at Mona Vale, where it is today. Around that time he started another shop in Mona Vale with the help of Tim Storer. It was while the factory was at Polo Avenue that Nick Pope and Peter decided to change the business name from ‘Daniell’ to ‘Division’. Through the decades since, Peter has mentored many outstanding shapers, sponsored a host of world tour surfers and employed young sales staff that have gone on to manage some of the nation’s biggest surf/street retail operations and international apparel heavyweights. It’s uncanny how many surf industry leaders have risen under his tutelage. Yet, despite all that, if you drop into the Division shop at Mona Vale or Peter’s shaping bay in Polo Ave you encounter nothing but a humble, unassuming, albeit fiercely independent man. Peter describes life on the Peninsula: “Obviously one of the best points is the beaches and Pittwater. The quality of the water has improved so much, and it’s amazing how un-crowded the surf can be some days. We have the advantages of city living without the high-rise and the trains etc. The amount of talent in art, music and sport is just awesome. We have some incredibly good restaurants, shops and cafes.” As to what makes Division so special - it’s the basic principles of a successful family business.

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“We totally design and make our own boards in our own factory to sell in our own shop. We are an independent business and not a chain. We are a family business, my mum and sisters and wife have all worked in the St Ives store. My son Ryan managed Mona Vale for a couple of years and now younger son Mark is in charge. I have been lucky enough to have some really great, loyal people work with me over the years – Simon Haskell, Toby Sams, Jason Haynes, Justin Wong and Kyla Sherman just to name a few.” And as to the future of modern surfcraft, Peter is equally positive about the outlook. “I believe the future is looking bright. PU surfboards are still the mainstay of production with an increase of high-tech materials with epoxy resin and fabric moving into the market as the prices become more affordable.”

WELCOME THE NEW BREED

Skip forward to the 21st century and the Northern Beaches’ surf industry is just as exciting and dynamic as it ever was. The kids have grown up and a whole host of new shapers are making a name for themselves on the local and even global stage. With all manner and scale of production, the younger shapers have drawn their inspiration and knowledge from the previous generation and have added a few of their own game-changing twists to it all. We talk to two of the area’s most popular shapers, Blake Peters of Panda Surfboards and Mark Gnech of Vampirate Surfboards. nov/dec 2011

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BLAKE PETERS OF PANDA... THE KIDS ARE ALRIGHT At just 26 years of age Blake Peters of Panda Surfboards in Mona Vale is one of, if not the youngest shaper on the peninsula, which explains his passion and focus on shaping high performance craft for some of the best groms in the hood. Blake was born and bred on the Northern Beaches and has been sniffing foam dust since he was 16, when he started working for a ding repairer and in a few local surf stores. At 18, he scored a job with Luke Short at LSD, working in the shop and sweeping the bays. After returning from an overseas jaunt in 2005 however, he found himself without the option of jumping back in at LSD, which had moved to Yamba. It was pretty much at that moment that Blake decided what he wanted to do and started really learning the ropes of shaping. He eventually started a little ding repair business to fund his obsession and everything just grew organically from there, into what Panda Surfboards is today. Since those early days Blake’s been fortunate enough to work alongside most of the better shapers up the Peninsula end of the Beaches in some shape or form. He originally shared a factory with Sean Wilde and Mark Gnech where he learned a lot, he tells us. He also worked alongside Steve Zoeller

“ WE MAKE HEAPS OF THE SHORT, FAT STUFF” from Energy, has sanded for Pete Daniell from Division, Aido Wheeler from Rusty and even had a go at blowing blanks. These days Panda surfboard designs really focus on producing high performance boards for kids that rip. While he caters for older guys too and shapes pretty much everything including SUPS, he really puts a lot of time into the local grom scene. “We have a bunch of high performance models specifically designed for the groms, so we tend to get a lot of them riding our boards” Blake says. “Our brand image is deliberately young and fresh, so we inevitably tend to appeal to the kids.”

Blake Peters . Photo supplied

“We make heaps of the short fat stuff, heaps of hyped-up performance shorties and anything that’s fun, anything that the new, above-the-lip generation is into. We were one of the first board manufactures to offer a full online store. You can order online or see and purchase anything we are carrying in stock.”

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Blake’s personal favourite is the Smoking trout - a short, fat 5’7” design that’s refined to surf harder, and hold better in bigger stuff. His most popular is the trout or the Friendly Salmon which is a real little fatty awesome board for the Northern Beaches in summer. He is also injecting two new models hoping to release them just in time for this summer the Ford Archibald signature model and the Fang Banger - both short and fat.

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP The shaping-bay-meets-jam-room, that Mark Gnech and the Drunken Sailors call second home.

MARK GNECH OF VAMPIRATE SURFBOARDS... HE WALKS AMONG US Born and bred in Western Australia, Mark Gnech of Vampirate Surfboards is way more chilled and understated than 99.9 per cent of Sydney surfers. This is possibly because he was bitten by a vampire, around the time his surfing addiction kicked in on the day his oldies bought him a Hanimex twin fin when he was twelve. Ever since his first ride on that foamy he has been hooked. Initially his life completely revolved around wave riding, but now it’s totally dedicated to designing and manufacturing incredible surfboards.

Mark’s been living on the beach at Narrabeen for the past fifteen years, making treasured lifelong friends including his business partner in Vampirate Surfboards Ozzie Wright, and a bunch of Northern Beaches musos and artists, too numerous to name. His shaping bay in Polo Ave, Mona Vale is steeped in history, in a shared space that contains Zoeller of Energy Surfboards shaping bay, Sean Wilde of Wilde Surfboard’s bay, and a classic band jam room that often transforms into party central. When not shaping, Sean and Mark are

bandmates in The Drunken Sailors, often to be heard jamming loud and proud of an afternoon or evening. Surfboard design comes first with rock’n’roll as a natural extension of his creative lifestyle. Mark, who also makes boards under the Gnech brand, takes pride in shaping seriously cool boards that just scream individual. He also still does boards for crew in WA and makes all styles of craft - from mean Indo guns to fun wider boards for summer slop. It goes without saying that the insane Ozzie Wright artwork on Vampirate boards also sets them apart.

When it comes to influences and inspirations, Mark’s always been inspired by shapers like Bob McTavish who he notes, “still surfs so good!” but once you check out a Vampirate board, you’ll agree it’s all about the Rock ‘n Roll. For more info, drop Mark a line on info@vampiratesurfboards.com For the music, check out the band on reverbnation.com/drunkensailors

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TALKING SHOP

Time spent behind the counter, chatting to generations of surfers that pass through the doors gives surf shop operators an invaluable insight into the unique goings on of their beach. One of these long-term operators is Tim Hanrahan, so who better to start off with for some advice on getting the best out of a Northern Beaches visit?

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP Tim of Aloha Surf, out at his other day-job. Photo: Supplied

But first, a little introduction. Tim is the quintessential down to earth, laidback northern beaches surfer, family man and head honcho of the longest running surf hardwear shop in Manly - Aloha Surf. He’s a surfboard salesman extraordinaire. BEN: HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN LIVING ON THE NORTHERN BEACHES FOR, TIM? Tim Hanrahan: I have been living on the Northern Beaches since 1986. I came to Australia as a 19 year-old fresh-faced kiwi grom. I spent a couple of years travelling around Oz in an old kombi. I settled down in Manly after scoring a job working for Greg Clough, John Brookes and Dooma Hardman when they opened the first Aloha store in Collaroy. Basically I just loved surfing, hanging at the beach, the sun, water, parties - all the fun stuff all grommets young and old still love to do now. I started just cleaning boards, tidying up and talking to customers trying to help them find what they needed. It was easy and fun and I enjoyed talking to crew about waves, boards and stuff. I soon worked out the role suited

AROUND THE SAME time Tim Hanrahan was settling into his new life in Manly, further up the road the origins of a specialist wetsuit store were in the making, albeit accidentally.

me, as selling boards came fairly easily to me probably because I was totally obsessed with surfing and particularly board design. I guess I slowly moved up through the shop hierarchy, eventually becoming manager of the store. The boys decided to open another Aloha shop in Manly in about 1991, so I moved here and over time I slowly bought shares off the directors and took over as head of operations. WHAT ARE THE BEST AND WORST POINTS ABOUT LIFE IN AND AROUND MANLY? To be honest the waves can be average at times, although as far as big cities go it’s fairly consistently rideable, it’s just the quality is not amazing very often. The crowds are pretty intense, especially on weekends, but the boys in the shop usually have the odd week day off, so it’s way less crowded. There are always heaps of social events on, so life is never dull. There are heaps of great bars, restaurants and all types of different people. I have lots of great mates, especially all the real local surfers.

You see Peter Ford’s Long Reef Surf shop on Pittwater Road in Collaroy was originally planned to be a clearance centre for a container load of windsurfers he had imported. When the goods got waylaid and didn’t arrive until the end of windsurfing

FAVOURITE WAVE HAUNTS AND TIPS FOR WAVE CHASERS Anywhere away from the pack. I love getting out of Sydney for the day with a few mates. Generally though when I’m busy I mainly surf Manly, Freshy or Curly. This year was pretty good in April, May and a bit of June. In fact, probably those months every year are generally best in these parts; with the exception of a few late summer E or NE cyclone swells. Favourite days are those rare six to eight foot mid week North Steyne sessions with the boys. BEST LOCAL CAFES AND EATERIES I love Hugo’s on the wharf for a nice weekday lunch with the missus. ‘Jocks’ is always a great lunch and Manly Thai Gourmet is the only place you can get a feed for $8 and it’s proper good. Manly has more eateries than some countries.

season, Peter needed to work out a way to survive the winter. With his final $3000 he decided to sell wetsuits. He opened the doors of his Collaroy store on April Fool’s day, 1985. Needless to say, business wasn’t exactly pumping in those early days, so Peter was a nov/dec 2011

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great fan of the weekly lottery ticket. He named all of his tickets “Long Reef Express”, because if he won, he planned to get the hell out of there! Gradually business began to pick up though, and as Peter added various items to the product mix, he was given the licence for one major brand after another. Within years he found himself running a major windsurfing/surf shop and had no time to purchase lottery tickets. Windsurfing grew rapidly in the late eighties, ensuring Long Reef Surf expanded in leaps and bounds, growing to a chain of three stores, before trimming back all the way in 2005 when Pete decided to consolidate all his efforts into the original Long Reef Surf. While still mainly specialising in wetsuits, Peter expanded the surf shop to include a huge range of other water sports and accessories from skateboards and body boards to beach tents and much more. Today Long Reef Surf also specialise in softboards for kids and adult beginners to get into surfing. There is a bit of science to finding the right kind of softboard that still surfs similar to a fiberglass board and this is where the expertise comes in handy for the novice. Peter and family still love the social and community interaction working on the floor of the shop most though. Peter said, “There is always someone to make our day like the self proclaimed wetsuit expert who tried his wetsuit on backwards, the size 10 girl who insisted on buying the size 14 because the colour matched her thongs, or just the never ending spectacular temper tantrums from kids who want “that” NOW.” That customer interaction is also what Andy Lye and John Radford, the owners of Dripping Wet, thrive upon and what keeps them stoked. Of course, when your store is right across the road from the beach, it definitely helps.

MAIN: Andy Lye from Dripping Wet is no slouch in the surf. BELOW: The friendly faces of Long Reef Surf in Collaroy

“THERE IS ALWAYS SOMEONE TO MAKE OUR DAY” PETER FORD, ON WORKING IN-STORE

When you walk into Dripping Wet you immediately pick up on the vibe that the sales team are basically just happy to be working across the road from the beach doing something they love doing. It is straight up, that plain and simple. There is no pretension. Andy said, “We really go out of our way to make each and every person that purchases off us happy with the service and products. We focus on hardware products that you actually surf on, or will keep you warm in the water. The emphasis is definitely on function rather than fashion.” Andy and John brought Dripping Wet from the previous owner Mark Atkinson 14 years ago, as both a business and lifestyle move, because they wanted to continue working in a culture and industry they both enjoyed. 140

L-R: Jade, Karen, Peter and Samantha - The Long Reef team.

Andy, John and all their staff are super friendly and very low key. Their massive surf hardware shop is the goods and they don’t consider themselves cool in any way, shape or form.

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When quizzed on the future of surf retail Andy said, “The surf industry is forever evolving. There will always be new threats to business no matter what size you are.” While positive, he did express concern over potential discounting price wars from the big players hurting the smaller guys. “Discounting leaves less and less room for business to be a viable option to operate. When selling a surf product there is a price and that price supports the manufacturer, distributor and the retailer and of course the taxman and the entire Australian economy.” Kye Fitzgerald of Raised by Wolves is even more direct in his assessment of the current status quo with regards to surf retail. He believes Australian surf retail needs to clarify what it is about. He and his business partners set about liberating the Northern Beaches shopper from what he describes as the ‘chain store overkill’ when they opened the doors to their first store in Avalon back in 2006. Raised by Wolves was borne out of a collective desire to support independent surf and skate film makers, clothing designers, and surf and skateboard manufacturers. “The horrid commercial saturation of surfing and skate has lead to a strong undercurrent of surfers and skaters searching for a better representation of who they are. “It might be a spell of nostalgia harking back to the golden era of surfing and skate in the 70s, or it might be a craving for individuality and creativity that can only be found from smaller surfer, skater-

BOOK NOW! (02) 9977 6977

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MANLYSURFSCHOOL.COM nov/dec 2011

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Inside Little Dragon

owned companies that are prepared to take risks. Sometimes flamboyant, sometimes subtle.”

MANLY SU R FB O A R D S

. airs in town p e r g n di t s Be

46 NORTH STEYNE RD, MANLY NSW 2095

02 9976 0591

No visit to Sydney’s northern beaches is complete without a visit to Mick Mock’s Little Dragon. It is one, if not the best surf collectables and memorabilia shop in the entire country.

Oli Wilson, Manly beach Photo: Ian “Butts” Butler

Pretty big statement? Walk into this tiny little store and it is like stepping into Dr Who’s tardis. You won’t believe how many vintage surfboards, skateboards and just how much surf culture is crammed into such a small space. And to leave the Northern Beaches with a lasting reminder of a great visit, make sure you go into Mark Preece’s Manly Longboards for some very cool gear to wear for years to come - loud and proud.

LIVING THE DREAM

We’ll leave the final word to Wayne Ryan of Line Up Surf and Travel in Dee Why. Originally from Sydney’s Wild West, Wayne moved to Narrabeen before finally settling in Dee Why in 1981 when he discovered the crowd factor was less intense. In 1990 he bought Line Up Surf. “I just wanted to ‘live the dream’ work in my shop and get in the water each day. However I bought the store just as the surfing industry really exploded, so the days of closing the shop to go for a surf were over. It became serious business.”

any other d better than d will ar bo ur yo k to s an ated to stic bare patche a longer was formul doesn’t get you ng vi gi Stick It wax obal market. Stick It ax w average gl r time! wax on the er than your ion time afte 3 times long ss er se ov ng st rfi la su le often ab rt fo m more co

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Aside from his surf shop and surf school, Wayne has developed another side to his business. Line Up now has several overseas surf resorts. As for Sydney, Wayne still believes it’s the best surf city in the world. “Sydney has it all, jobs, waves, lifestyle, entertainment, sport etc. The Northern beaches are the best part of Sydney, and Dee Why is the best spot on the Northern beaches.” nov/dec 2011

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP Matt Grainger’s day off PHOTO: Mark ‘Crumpet’ Taylor

RIDING THE BIGGEST, WORKING THE SMALLEST It’s not just surf shop owners and shapers that get to pay the bills with surfing. Matt Grainger runs Manly Surf School, where the waves he gets people on are a far cry from the ones he rides himself. The Grainger brothers Matt, Tim and Arnie loom large on Sydney’s northern beaches. Between the three of them the trophy cabinet is overflowing with Australian, NSW and northern beaches titles. At 42, Matt is the eldest and also charges the hardest, building a reputation for regularly towing into the biggest bombs the northern beaches can deliver. He quietly goes about pursuing the big stuff with underground tow buddies Jason “The Captain” Gribble and Scotty Romain, rarely missing a swell. But he’s never been one to chase the limelight - he opts to let his surfing do the talking. His day job, however has scored him more limelight than he might have imagined, with his surf school at the centre of a reality television series, Manly Surf, which debuted in 2010 and is now in its second season. “The show is personality based with episodes featuring diverse crew like Peter Drouyn/Westerly and the navy harbour shark victim Paul De Gelder towing Longie Bombie with one arm and one leg for example.” Recently Matt purchased Manly SUP School off Barton Lynch and he also finds time to sell and distribute softboards to other surf schools around the country. With his staff of 30 including ex-pro surfers like Zahn Foxton, Chris Salisbury, Christo Hall and Steve Clements, they have brought the buzz of riding waves to tens of thousands of people since 1995. Catch the show, Manly Surf on the Nine Network, Sundays, for an insight into the day to day happenings of a surf school and check out manlysurfschool.com.

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PHOTO: Joel Coleman

CAPTURE THE MOMENT THE ENDLESS SURFING OPTIONS ON THE NORTHERN BEACHES IS WELL MATCHED BY THE ARMY OF TALENTED PHOTOGRAPHERS THAT CAPTURE THE IMAGERY AND VIBE OF THE AREA EVERY DAY, EACH WITH THEIR OWN UNIQUE STYLES, VOICE AND AREAS THEY COVER.

Joel Coleman and his wife Sherrie run a fast growing photo business in Manly. The Colemans have set up a thriving gallery and cafe and have also expanded in surf travel bookings and their own apparel line, while Joel continues to produce epic local imagery for the saltmotion email newsletter and prints in store. A talented writer as well, Joel’s off-the-beaten-track travel tales often appear in smorgasboarder - check out last edition’s cracking tale on Chile! Drop into the gallery at Market Place Manly for a coffee and chat. www.saltmotion.com Barnaby Egerton-Warburton and Murray Fraser get up pre-dawn every week day and shoot Manly, anywhere from Fairy Bower to Queenscliff for email newsletter Sprout Daily’s thousands of subscribers. Barnaby and Murray know most of the local crew and enjoy posting shots of the local community going about their daily business - whether that be someone taking a morning stroll on the promenade, a longboarder hanging five or a local legend doing a giant air. www.sproutdaily.com Up the road at Dee Why, Ian Bird has been making a name for himself in recent years with amazing line up 146

shots of Dee Why Point, Long Reef Bomby, North and Sth Narrabeen and various other iconic northern beaches set ups. Ian says he tries not to miss a swell and always nabs a fresh angle. Ian has travelled the country shooting work for his commercial clients which include everyone from Virgin to The Governor General of Australia. www.ianbirdphotography.com or check out Ian’s Facebook page - http://www.facebook.com/pages/IanBird-Photography/312669978346 Around the bend is Alex Marks from Mona Vale, who sends out his Bluesnapper email newsletter to over 10,000 subscribers. Focused on the Narrabeen to Palm Beach end of The Peninsula his work features water shots, epic line ups along with local profiles and portraits. Cooper Chapman PHOTO: Matt Dunbar

For those not so lucky to live there, many of these dedicated lensmen put their work on display online and deliver fresh pics monthly, weekly and even daily.

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TRAVEL:ROADTRIP Freshwater PHOTO: Mark ‘Crumpet’ Taylor nov/dec 2011

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Kiwi by birth, Jules Phillips of Oceaneye captures incredible water landscapes and has a knack of snapping picture perfect shots of Northern Beaches surfers in top early morning light. Broadening his subject matter, these days he’s found a new love in nature photography that’s built up into somewhat of an obsessions around birds, in particular. But Oceaneye is far from a conduit for Jules’ work alone, with a number of talented photographers working under the same banner. Young gun Matt Dunbar is one of those talented souls, snapping all sorts of surf related subjects, from moody landscapes to high-performance surf moves.

Jules Phillips

Alex Marks

Ian Bird

To pay the bills, Alex also does commercial shoots and has recently self-published a 160page hardcover book filled with his favourite images from the past 5 years. The limited run of 300 sold out instantly but there’s sure to be another one in the pipeline. Keep your ears and eyes open for the next one. www.bluesnapper.com.au

To see their work and that of the other talented photographers involved, visit www.oceaneye.com.au

Joel Coleman

Photo: Michael Kellerman

PHOTO: Michael Kellerman

Mark ‘Crumpet’ Taylor has a long list of photo cred to his name and is responsible for some classic of northern beaches surfing imagery. Well published, well travelled and well friendly... What more can we say? Crumpet’s work is just amazing.

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With a slightly different angle on surf photography, Michael Kellerman of Surf Photos of You provides surfers of all types and standards with the opportunity to get a photo of themselves for training, hanging in their office or home, or to prove you can actually nail a decent rooster tail... or even just stand up. Growing up on the Northern Beaches he started surfing at 11, he still surfs and takes pictures around Long Reef and Dee Why, and a lot more thesedays thanks to digital technology. “In the early days of the late 70s, it was all film-based and you had to watch your penny and how many pics you took,” he says. See if you can see a shot of yourself on www.surfphotosofyou.com.au Without the contributions and talent of local photographers, putting out an edition of smorgasboarder just would not be possible or it least, it wouldn’t be near as interesting to look at - so support them when you’re after some fine wall art, just as you would support your local shaper.

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PHOTO: Ian Bird

EAT, DRINK & SLEEP Cokes Surf Villas - Maldives WWW.COKESSURFVILLAS.COM

WHERE TO STAY

RESTAURANTS, CLUBS & CAFES.

The Northern Beaches offers a range of accommodation – from upmarket hotels and boutique home stays to motels, bed and breakfasts and backpackers. While the bulk of the accommodation is at Manly, there’s number of options dotted along the peninsula.

Sydney is renowned around the world for its exceptional food and that reputation is certainly upheld on the Northern Beaches. Dee Why and Manly both boast excellent seafront restaurants, with a number of superb restaurants with water views also located at Manly Wharf, Freshwater Beach, Cottage Point, Avalon Beach, Whale Beach and Palm Beach.

At the top end, sporting and movie stars often rent Palm Beach mansions during holiday periods. Paparazzi can often be spotted hiding out at South Palm Beach trying desperately to snare the elusive shot of Kidman and co out at the beach.

Maninoa Samoa

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Southern Maldives

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LINE UP SURF CAMPS & RESORTS 12b The Strand, Dee Why, Sydney NSW 2099 Phone: 02 9971 8624

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At the other end of the spectrum, nestled between the lake and the ocean, Sydney Lakeside Holiday Park at Narrabeen is just 40 minutes drive north of Sydney’s CBD. Literally across the road from North Narrabeen, it’s a popular, affordable option for surfers and families. Similarly The YHA Hostel at Collaroy offers accessibly priced accomodation for surfers, as does Backpackers at Manly. A personal favourite of ours is the Manly Lodge Boutique Hotel at 22 Victoria Parade. It offers simple, clean and affordable rooms, its central location is only 200m away from the beach. Public transport in the form of bus and ferry provides easy access to Manly, the city, Homebush Bay and even the Central Coast. If you prefer to drive, Sydney’s Metroad System makes it easy to get around - no matter from which direction you come, but as a visitor - if you don’t own one already - get a GPS and take the navigation headache out of the picture. For more information, check out the Sydney’s Northern Beaches Visitors Association at www.sydneybeaches.com.au and Manly Visitors Centre - www.manlytourism.com

For relaxed dining and entertainment, there are a few service clubs along the peninsula. The ultra-modern Dee Why RSL comes complete with evening floor shows, and a 10-pin bowling alley. The Harbord RSL is massive, complete with dining and band room, while the smaller Collaroy Services Club looks directly on to the beach. There are many great pubs to choose from - with the waterfront-based Newport Arms, the Harbord Hotel at Freshwater Beach, the Brookvale Hotel at Brookvale, Dee Why Hotel, The Steyne at Manly, The Sands at Narrabeen and Mona Vale Hotel among the better-known ones. A personal recommendation is the Nth Steyne Emporio, otherwise known as “Jocks” by local surfers. It’s located at 189 Pittwater Road a block inland from the Queenscliff end of Manly. Jocks is a great deli-come-coffee lounge where local surfers can chill, refuel and swap stories. Similarly Ocean Blend at 207 Ocean St in North Narrabeen is a great local surf hangout with exceptional coffee, but with the art, atmosphere and friendly folk, Saltmotion Cafe is our favourite by a country mile.. With the food, just as with the waves, there’s something for all tastes and wallet sizes right up and down the peninsula.

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Over 40 years of experience goes into every Ron Wade design.

(mention smorgasboarder to get a free leggie worth $45 with a new Ron Wade board order)

I was “After talking with Ron, lus -p 40 his confident with ing ign des d years of shaping an ke ma ld knowledge, that he cou to me w me a board that could allo d.” wante progress and do what I

Korey Fogden Photo: Alec Vandyke, Mona Vale

Short to long, every Ron Wade Surfboard is built for peak performance

Korey Fogden

Korey Fogden is a rising star in the Mona Vale Boardriders Club and regularly places in the top 3 places in the under-15 yrs division. He proudly rides the 5’6” Airobatic model in smaller surf and a 5’8” Blackfeather perform ance shortboard for bigger waves.

Blackfeather

The Airobatic

“This board allows me to do 360 degree snap turns”

Korey’s first choice for doing the best aerials

For more information and quotes, please contact us: sales@ronwadesurfboards.com.au

Phone Mobile Fax Visit

02 9979 7071 0410 443 776 61 2 82128039 Mona Vale showroom, open 9-4pm Sat or call me.

www.ronwadesurfboards.com.au nov/dec 2011

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Photo: Hayden O’Neill

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Ian with SURFDECAL.COM

examples. PHOTO: Supplied

PERFORMANCE

FOR SURFERS

The best you expect from a fin system!

QUALITY

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CREATING AN INDIVIDUAL STATEMENT FOR YOUR NEW SURFBOARD, THE DIGITAL WAY

schizophrenic surrealist street style drawing or Christian Chapman who has created artwork for most of the well known surfboard manufacturers in Australia... And most recently Josh Dowling, who does some amazing sprays. A lot of the leading shapers are now using our decals to heighten that custom aspect of their boards.” Through Ian we found out that you can really personalise your board with full size board graphics or small logos from as little as $70 to $100 bucks. So if you have an idea you want to bring to life on your next board, this is a great way to add that extra special touch. The digital decals are imaged using UV inks so they don’t fade away to nothing after a few surfs.

Introducing the

GASfins NITRO fin plug...

Ian checks a Caspian decal in lamination

As early as the 1950s, skateboards were decorated with decals and artwork and by the mid 80s the deck bottoms featured all sorts of elaborate designs and logos. It was as much a statement about the individuality of the skateboard fraternity as the skaters themselves. In the early 70s, custom psychedelic airbrush sprays made their way onto surfboards with each board unique in terms of its plan shape and artwork. But individual custom craft died away - in more ways than one - to be replaced by stark white performance shortboards until the resurgence of longboarding in the 90s introduced some colour back onto the surf scene. But not until relatively recently did the surf community start to truly personalise surfboards in a unique fashion once more. Posca pens became the weapon of choice and increasingly custom sprays have returned to the fore, but thanks to companies that offer digital decals, customising your surfboard nowadays has become a whole lot easier. SURFDECALS.COM, an Australian company based on Sydney’s Northern Beaches is a leading supplier of custom surfboard graphics. Ian Wallace, the owner, gives us a little insight into what can be achieved. “Any ideas you have - we can reproduce it, whether it be some artwork, a graphic or a photographic image. We fit it to the plan shape and it’s laminated under the fiberglass. If you can’t dream up something we have some of the best artists on our team, guys like Caspian de Looze with his

The best for your customers, without the price tag. Enjoy the rewards of your work.

• Less flex in the base of your fin • Lightest, easiest fin system to install • Compatible with GASfins and other leading fin systems • For all shapes and deck contours • Variety of colours, from glass-filled nylon to polycarbonate hybrids • Extra long grub screws that lengthen the life of the plug

For more information, and to get some graphics done for your next board, call Ian on 0419 264 975 or visit www.surfdecals.com for more information, full specs on supplying your artwork and even full instruction on how to apply the decal.

Enjoy the benefits today

PHOTO: Hive Swimwear

PHOTO: Jim Goodrich

Photo: Hayden O’Neill

BOARDS • SKATE • TESTS • REVIEWS • FASHION

0417 980 524 • gasfins@gmail.com

WWW.GASFINS.COM.AU

SKATE HISTORY REVISITED P180 HOT SUMMER FASHION P196 YOUR BIGGEST BOARD GUIDE EVER P154

Discover MORE new surfboards by independent surfboard shapers along the east and south coast of Australia than ANYWHERE ELSE, from the comfort of your couch, no internet, no clicking, no bullshit - just boards, boards, boards from the most down-to-earth, salt-of-the-sea shapers in this great country of ours. nov/dec 2011

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V2 CARBON FIBRE ULTRA FLEXTAIL

LE’ NARD

THE SPOON

SIM-MINI

Shaper: T homas Bexon Dimensions: 4’9” x 21 ½” x 2 ½” Ideal conditions: Hip high to your hearts content. Suits: Anyone who likes to go fast. Ability level: Intermediate to advanced plus beginners looking to try something new. Description: A miniSimmons inspired superfast, super maneuverable, agile board built for fun Construction: Stringerless styrofoam with epoxy resin, super light and responsive. Fins: Glass on twin keel or quad, fin systems also available. Shaper comment: Call me.

Shaper: T homas Bexon Dimensions: 5’ x 21” Ideal conditions: Chest high and bigger with push and shape. Suits: George, or anyone after a challenge who has an understanding of one of the key crafts responsible for the shortboard revolution. Ability level: Intermediate to advanced, not easy to ride. Description: A collectable, challenging, craft that is as much a design piece, like an Eames chair or a VW Karman Ghia. Construction: Long and labour intensive, foam and fiberglass, two-step shape process, 20-step glass process, lots of individual layers of fiberglass to give a clear panel 20 layers thick. Fins: Glass on single, flex fin Shaper comment: Call me.

Shaper: Dave Verrall Dimensions: 5’0” x 22 ¼” x 2 5/8”= 37L Ideal conditions: Fun, clean conditions with long rides to have your way with anything you like. Suits: Anyone as long as you have been surfing for a couple years and know what you’re doing out there. Description: Our revised and updated Mini-sim. based on a few years of playing with this style of board we have gone shorter and added volume creating an agile little craft for pleasure on the points. Don’t fall for those who pull in the tail - these love a straight outline in the tail and a wall to ride on. Construction: Traditional Burfords PU Foam, Baymills Glass & Silmar resins, tints and pigments. Fins: Twin made by Dave Shaper comment: Never had so much fun and amazing feedback from a board that challenges common thinking. We have demos at our shop, But you pretty much have to book to get one to ride as they are very sought after!

THOMAS SURFBOARDS PO Box 234 Maroochydore Qld 4558 Ph: 0412 131 491

thomassurfboards.com

DIVERSE SURFBOARDS 476 Gold Coast Hwy, Tugun, QLD 4224 Ph: 07 5598 4848 dave@diversesurf.com.au diversesurf.com.au

Shaper: Mitchell Rae

Specs: 6’4” x 18 ¾” x 2 5/8”

Specs: 8’ x 21 ½” x 2 ¾”

Suits: Beach, reef and point breaks

Description: Concave with chine control planes

Description: Deep single concave with spiral chine entry. V2 Flex construction with full Carbon Flextail. This one is for those epic, perfect coral reef barrels. Construction: PU foam, strong, light glassing, gloss and polish Fins: Thruster or quad FCS compatible or Futures, your call. Shaper comment: Our latest innovation combining V2 stringers with original carbon Flextail.

OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 7 Bayldon Drive, Raleigh, NSW

154

V2 SUPERMAL

Construction: Shown with tints, pigments, gloss & polish. PU foam strong glass. Fins: Fins set up for 3 or 4 FCS or Futures on request. I ride mine as a quad. Shapers Comment: A fabulous mid length all rounder that will perform in anything from beachies to barrels. Easy paddle and wave entry. True hi-performance... Carve, walk and glide. Ultra fast, smooth as silk. Feel the acceleration of the V2 Flex.

OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 7 Bayldon Drive, Raleigh, NSW

Ph: 02 6655 7007

info@outerislandsurfboards.com outerislandsurfboards.com

thomas_bexon@hotmail.com

nov/dec 2011

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THE RAINBOW

Shaper: Mark Gnech

Shaper comment: So much speed it’s freedom guaranteed.

Shaper: Mark Gnech Specs: 5’6” x 20” x 2 ¼” Ideal conditions: Small, summer waves Suits: All Description: This is 1 of those boards that will do anything you want it to... Construction: PU Dion blank, 4+4 deck, 4 bottom Fins: Thruster or Quad Shaper comment: Small wave summer fun

VAMPIRATE surfboards arr Australian made. Art by Ozzie Wright, Designs by Mark Gnech.

Specs: 5’2” x 20” x 2 5/8” Ideal conditions: 1-4ft Suits: All Description: Cheater 5 Tube Jive in now. Too easy. Construction: PU Dion blank, 4+4 deck, 4 bottom Fins: Twinnie or Quad

VAMPIRATE SURFBOARDS 3/4 Harkeith St, Mona Vale, NSW Ph: 0401 255 546 info@vampiratesurfboards.com vampiratesurfboards.com

HULAWINDY

OLD SKOOL

Shaper: Sean Wilde

Shaper: Peter White Glasser: Brett White Finishing: Ricky Typical: 9’3 x 23” x 2 7/8” to any size you want. Ideal: Small to medium point style waves. Description: Like all older style boards they can take a bit to master, but when tamed, they are an absolute treat to ride. The extra weight of these boards gives a beautiful flowing feel. The soft rolled vee allows for smooth rail-to-rail transition. Don’t expect to be doing “airs” or slashing cut backs... These boards work in harmony with the wave. Construction: PU foam 9” - 12” stringer. Glassing 7.5 oz bottom with 7.5 + 6oz deck. Fins: Fixed fin or single fin-box. Shaper comment: “Get back to where it all began”...a different ride, once mastered, you’ll enjoy forever!

Specs: 9’4” x 23” x 2 ¾” Ideal conditions: Small waves everywhere. Suits: All Description: Classic noserider available in bell pin and square tails. Construction: PU Dion blank, 6+6 deck, 6 bottom Fins: 10” box or glassed on hatchet fin. Shaper comment: Walk the plank.

VAMPIRATE surfboards arr Australian made. Art by Ozzie Wright, Designs by Mark Gnech.

VAMPIRATE SURFBOARDS 3/4 Harkeith St, Mona Vale, NSW Ph: 0401 255 546

VAMPIRATE SURFBOARDS 3/4 Harkeith St, Mona Vale, NSW

info@vampiratesurfboards.com vampiratesurfboards.com

Ph: 0401 255 546

4567 MODEL

CLASSIC MALIBU Cnr Gibson & Eumundi Rd Noosaville, QLD 4566 Ph: 07 5474 3122 info@classicmalibu.com www.classicmalibu.com

Shaper: Peter White Glasser: Brett White Finishing: Ricky Typical: 9’1” x 22” x 2 ½” Ideal: Small to sizeable. Beach break - Points Reef break. Description: The board fits the one board for all occasions category. It’s been the flagship of the fleet for many, many, years. “If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Great on the nose. Loose off the tail. Vee through the tail, light vee through the middle. Nose concave. Construction: PU Foam. 6mm stringer. 6oz bottom, 6 + 4oz deck. Fins: 2 + 1 or thruster fins. Shaper comment: I rode my 4567 this morning. Waist high, north end of Sunshine Beach... Had a ball... You will too!

CLASSIC MALIBU Cnr Gibson & Eumundi Rd Noosaville, QLD 4566 Ph: 07 5474 3122 info@classicmalibu.com www.classicmalibu.com

nov/dec 2011

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS

GRAVE DIGGER

ER! WINN rd oa b f r Su f tion o ip r c s de ! r a e the y

EL PESCADO

THE SERPENT

FISH FINGER

ONLY CHILD

Shaper: Rory Oke

Shaper: Chok Oke

Dimensions: 6’4” x 21” x 2 ½”

Dimensions: 5’9” x 85kgs

Ideal conditions: 1-5ft Suits: Everyone

Suits: Only weddings and funerals.

Description: Plenty of volume throughout with a pulled in tail. Slight single concave through the middle to a deeper scooped vee starting in front of the fins

Description: 56 year old male from Edithvale. Making surfboards to fund an aspiring career in pigeon racing. Construction: 10% bones, 90% hot air

Construction: Ocean Foam blank, 6oz glass, sanded finish.

Fins: Great for diving.

Shaper: Peter Daniell Specs: 6’0” x 20” x 2 3/8” Sizes from 5’2” - 7’2” Wave Range: 1ft - 5ft Suits: Intermediate to advanced surfer Description: An easy paddling, high in volume, super fast and skatey twin fin. This board is the evolution of the single fin - wider throughout with more concave in the bottom, lower rails leading to a wide swallow tail. Construction: Glassing lightwight to strong. Epoxy also available. Fins: Twin, available with a center stabilizer. Fins can be fixed or your choice of removable system. Shaper comment: This is your ultimate summer fish, super fast loose and fun twiny. Ride this board 3 to 6 inches shorter than your normal board.

Shaper: Peter Daniell Specs: 6’0” x 20” x 2 3/8” Sizes from 5’5” - 7’0” Wave Range: 2ft - 8ft Suits: Intermediate to advanced surfer Description: A traditional outline blended with a modern bottom deep single to double concave. This board features a gloss and polished finish. Construction: Your choice of glassing weights - lightweight to strong - as well as tints, sprays, and finishes. Epoxy models also available on custom order. Fins: Fitted with a 10” fin box giving you option to experiment different fins. Can also be custom made with a glassed-in fin. Shaper comment: A high in volume fast paddler single fin surfboard.

Shaper: Peter Daniell Specs: 5’6” x 19 ¼” x 2 ¼” Sizes from: 5’3” - 6’4” Wave Range: 1ft - 6ft Suits: Intermediate to advanced surfer Description: A high performance small wave board. Tail mostly square, however all shapes can be applied to suit your preference upon order. Construction: Glassing lightweight to strong with optional carbon stripes on tail for added strength. Epoxy models also available on custom order. Fins: Fixed or your choice of removable system. Also available as quad or 5-fin. Shaper comment: The Burrito is small, fast and loose. It can take you anywhere on the wave you want to go. Best suited for small punchy waves. Ride this board 3 to 4 inches shorter than your normal board.

DIVISION SURFBOARDS Corner of Bungan & Waratah Sts Mona vale, NSW Ph: 02 9979 5334 www.divisionsurf.com.au

facebook.com/divisionsurf

Fins: Speeedfins

Shaper comment: Why did I let Dan and Rory fill this out?

Shaper comment: Perfect for summer Victorian beachbreaks. The volume will get you into waves early while the pulled in tail combined with the scooped vee makes the board not only manouvere easily, but hold through turns.

OKE SURFBOARDS 1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC, 3195 Ph: 03 9587 3553 okesurfboards.com

156

OKE SURFBOARDS 1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC, 3195 Ph: 03 9587 3553 okesurfboards.com

BURNING BURRITO

nov/dec 2011

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THE MXN

LITTLE RIP STICK

MICRO GROM

FORD ARCHBOLD

Shaper: Blake Peters Ideal: 1-4ft Ability: Intermediate to advanced Suits: Anyone wanting a high performance shortboard for smaller waves. Description: This is a high performance shortboard made for small waves. It’s designed to be ridden 2” shorter and ¼” wider than your standard shortboard. It features a low entry rocker for speed off the take off, a single to double concave with vee behind the fin for good rail-to-rail transition in small slop. Fins: Thruster setup Shaper comment: This is an awesome shortboard for Sydney’s beach breaks and has become our number 1 selling shortboard.

Shaper: Blake Peters Ideal: Small to medium everyday waves Ability: Beginner to advanced Suits: Kids up to 55kg. Description: This is an all-round shortboard designed specifically for the groms under 55kg. The board has a low entry rocker for easy paddling and building speed quickly, a single to double concave with vee behind the back fin for easy turning and it comes in a rounded square tail or round tail. Fins: Thruster Shaper comment: This is the perfect board for any grom, whether they are just learning or if they are at a high level.

Shaper: Blake Peters Ideal: Anything from 1-4ft Ability: Beginner to advanced Suits: Anyone wanting a short, fat, fun board that they can rip on through the summer months. Description: This Ford Archbold Signature Model features a full flat deck with beveled rails and beak nose. Really deep single throughout for speed and a nice little flyer behind the fins for release. It also comes with this cool resin tint. Fins: Thruster setup Shaper comment: Designed for the crew that are riding these short, fat boards every day. It’s short, fat and fun but you can still tear it apart like a short board. This board is super fast and has spring out of turns. The flat deck also gives it a really stable, forgiving feeling, making it very comfortable.

PANDA SURFBOARDS 4/17 Barrenjoey Rd, Mona Vale NSW Ph: 0427 797 910

E: blake@pandasurfboards.com

Shaper: Brett Warner

Dimensions: 5’8” x 20” x 2 7/16”

Dimensions: 5’10” x 19 ½” x 2 7/16”

Ideal conditions: Ideal for small surf, excels in point breaks.

Ideal conditions: Perfect for 1-3 ft beachies

Suits: Anyone

Description: The MXN is a small wave board,we have used the same DNA as the Bandit but with a pulled-in round tail with more curve in the back half of the board which makes it perform well in the pocket of the wave. Rocker is still fairly low and with the single to double concave makes it fast.

Description: Diamond tail-quad finner. Construction: PU Dion foam. 4oz bottom, 6 + 4oz bottom gloss and polish. Fins: Quad Shaper comment: Available through Warner Surfboards

Suits: Anyone

Construction: PU or Epoxy. M.I.A - Made in Australia. Fins: FCS or FUTURE, thruster or quad or both. Shaper comment: Ride this board 4-5 inches shorter than your performance short board.

c/o WARNER SURFBOARDS

236 Harbord Rd, Brookvale NSW 2100 Ph: 02 9907 1239 warnersurfboards.com morningstarsurfboards.com

WARNER SURFBOARDS 236 Harbord Rd, Brookvale NSW 2100 Ph: 02 9907 1239 warnersurfboards.com

pandasurfboards.com

nov/dec 2011

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS

MORNING STAR

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A tasty timber sandwich. PHOTOS: Supplied

FANCY A SANDWICH? WE SPEAK WITH JOSH DOWLING OF JOSH DOWLING SHAPES ABOUT HIS BOARD CONSTRUCTION METHODS. Incredibly cool sprays, near indestructible boards and by all reports a really good bloke to deal with, but apparently Josh Dowling builds his boards arse about face? “Yep, they way I build boards nowadays is completely arse about. You have to throw out everything you know about normal board building. “I start out with a flat block of super lightweight EPS foam instead of a blank. And unlike a blank, there is no rocker established in the plug. I actually create rocker by building the board in layers, bending and gluing each one in much the same way as how skateboards are constructed.”

UNIQUE CONSTRUCTION “On the top and bottom of a super lightweight, ‘bouncy’ EPS core there is a 3mm layer of either timber or very hard high-density foam - which is a different chemical structure altogether to normal PU and is very durable. This ‘outer shell’ has fiberglass on both sides, as opposed to just on the outer as with other composite board construction. “The reason I fibreglass both sides of the ‘outer shell’ is because I believe with EPS you need more glass. It is much the same as a zigzag steel truss as opposed to a solid wood rafter. You are removing the material in between and reducing the weight but not the strength. The top and bottom truss are separated by the lightest possible material and this EPS core, which is holding the deck and the bottom apart, has some give in it and flexes as opposed to a more solid construction without sacrificing strength. “In the lamination process I use epoxy resin as opposed to polyester. It has a different molecular structure and in my opinion is more resistant to fatigue plus the boards stay fresh and crispy longer.” What differentiates your sandwich construction from other methods? “It is similar to Surftech’s Tuflite technology, but as opposed to being a moulded clone of an existing shape, my boards are custom made to suit the individual. Therefore you have an individually tailor-made surfboard that is still extremely durable. Further to this, I hand-laminate my boards which makes them less rigid than other sandwich construction methods.”

WORDS: DAVE SWAN

the rails, as opposed to in the middle like a vertical stringer, the board loads up the wave’s energy and it flicks back to give you forward projection out of turns rather than twisting on the stringer axis where it loses energy. My boards are springy, not spongy. “I was very skeptical initially because of the work that goes into a board of this kind but the performance is unbelievable. I found myself having to pre-empt what I would do next on a wave because of the speed it generates.” How did you come to build boards this way? “I have been shaping since I was 13. I have worked under a myriad of shapers at various levels of the production process including Greg Brown, Paul Hutchison, Gunther Rohn, Tony Cerff, Wayne Roach and Nev Hyman to name a few.” Josh, who has been shaping for some 27 years, first dabbled with composite construction in 2004 after his growing frustration with what he perceived to be ‘the fragility of conventional boards’. “It has been a long road to perfecting the method. I got a bit of exposure with regards to my approach and was invited to work with Firewire. During my stint I crafted boards for the world’s top 16 pro surfers. After 18 months in Thailand with Firewire, I returned home and went and did my own thing. “I came full circle because I believe in the intensity of one-on-one interaction with customers and tailor-making a board specifically designed for them, albeit with the latest technology available.”

How do they differ to boards in general? “They are the same weight as a standard board but much stronger. All surfboards flex. PU boards flex and bend. With sandwich technology and wood on 158

FIND OUT MORE

See Josh’s work and also his fantastic airbrushing skills online www.joshdowlingshape.com

nov/dec 2011

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THE RPM

SINGLE FIN

8’ LONGBOARD

SMOKIN’BEAN

Shaper: Josh Dowling Specs: 6’9” x 22” x 2 ¾” Bump diamond tail Ideal: Allround, 2-6ft Description: Evel Knievel constantly pushed the envelope and died age 69... Inspiration for this design, intended for the older guy who is a bit busted up, but still has mind to rip! Construction: Vac-bagged EPS/Epoxy/Divynicell/ Timber composite with Innegra stomp patches. Parabolic Balsa rails. Your preference in glass weights. Fins: Quad/thruster. Your choice of fin model. Shaper comment: Wide and flat is stable and fast, but hip and tail keep the turn radius tight. Options of custom airbrush, or upcoming range of JD digital print designs. 100% Australian handcrafted composite surfboards.

Shaper: Josh Dowling Specs: 6’0” x 19 ¼” x 2 3/8” Ideal: 3-5ft hollow. Description: Single to double concave through to vee. A little width for speed but with swallow for drive and hold. Lightweight and edgy - gives Instant response for beating sections. The quad option so it’ll whip high and tight in the pocket. Construction: Vac-bagged EPS/Epoxy/Divynicell/ Timber composite with Innegra stomp patches. Parabolic Balsa rails. Glass weight tuned to suit the customer and wave types. Fins: Quad/thruster. Your choice of fin model. Shaper comment: Shifted to composites in 2005 and never looked back. Timber is all functional - bend it and it flicks back, creating drive. Composite allows for a pro-weight board that outlasts 6oz. 100% Australian handcrafted composite surfboards.

Shaper: Mark Rabbidge Dimensions: 6’2” x 20” x 2 ¾” single flyer single fin Ideal: All conditions, small to mid range Ability: All surfers who want to have fun Description: Modern version of old standard. Basically, find an old good one, ride it and then improve it. Construction: Fantastic polyester Fins: One glass-on or box Shaper comment: These boards are not novelty designs - they surf in an all round modern way without the hang-ups of old 70’s technology.

Shaper: Mark Rabbidge Dimensions: 8’ x 21” x 2 ¾” Suits: Custom tailored to suit the individual Description: Double ender well balanced board. Trim concave through middle, roll vee through the tail. Construction: Dion foam blanks. I’ve been dealing with them for 45 years and for good reason. Fins: 3 fin set up. Shaper comment: I have been making this board since the 80’s. It’s like a shortboard you can noseride.

Shaper: James Ellis OSX - APS3000 Specs: 5’11” x 22 1/8” x 3 1/16” Ideal: 1-4 ft, all types of surf. Suits: At this width and thickness, guys and girls 90kg+. Custom available Description: Flat, super fast and resembles a black jellybean. Tiny amount of reverse V. Sharp rounded tail, fishy nose, beautiful full rails for excellent hold. Construction: High-end. 200 GSM Cert. Japanese TORAY Twill Weave Carbon fibre, SCB PU foam, epoxy resin and acrylic epoxy gloss coats. Fins: Shapers plugs (5mm forward and back travel) with DVS (Dick Van Straalen) carbon fibre/composite fins from Shapers Shaper comment: Catches waves as easy as a mal. Turns like a shorty. Carbon construction gives this board a rocketing parabolic rail effect. A team effort between Distribution, D.D.S.A. CREATIVE, Pete from OES.

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS

EVEL-KNIEVEL

DISTRIBUTION SURFBOARDS

JOSH DOWLING SHAPE 430 Barwon Heads Rd, Marshall VIC 3216 Ph: 0413 211 020 joshdowlingshape@yahoo.com

joshdowlingshape.com

JOSH DOWLING SHAPE 430 Barwon Heads Rd, Marshall VIC 3216 Ph: 0413 211 020

joshdowlingshape@yahoo.com

joshdowlingshape.com

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN Ph: 02 4456 4038 Mobile: 0427 767 176 Bendalong, NSW 2539 www.markrabbidge.com

Ph: 0410 175 552 PO BOX 633 Willunga SA 5172

james@ljdistribution.com.au

Available through interested surf stores nov/dec 2011

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THE HOT RAT

THE FLYER

THE i-FISH

THE KPS

SAWN OFF

Shaper: Dino Tziolis

Shaper: Dino Tziolis Dimensions: 6’2” x 19 ½” x 2 ½” Single into double concave, swallowtail.

Ideal: All conditions beach breaks to points 2-5ft

Ideal: 1-6ft beach breaks, points or reef breaks.

Suits: Beginner to advanced.

Suits: Young and old surfers, made to suit all.

Description: The ultimate high performance shorty. Super fast, super responsive. Ideal for the up and coming contest surfer.

Description: A little wider, a little thicker, great for the working surfer. Paddles well – maximum turning ability – its concave is designed to create more speed.

Shaper: Terry “Snake” Bishop Dimensions: 5’8” x 20” x 2 ¼” Ideal conditions: Smaller, fatter days Suits: Anyone Description: Designed to catch waves on the smaller days, it’s wider in the nose with a pulled in fish tail to increase agility. This board is lively and maintains a high level of performance. Single to double concave for speed and with a straighter profile the iFish is friendly to all levels of surfer. Construction: Standard PU construction. 2 x 4oz deck, 1 x 4oz bottom. Fins: FCS K2.1 are best. Shaper comment: Can be ridden 4-6” shorter than your normal board and also work very well as a quad.

Shaper: Terry “Snake” Bishop Dimensions: 6’4 x 19 5/8”x 2 3/8” Ideal conditions: 1-6ft Suits: The surfer pushing 80 -100kg. Ability: Anyone. This board will improve your surfing. Description: Made for the for bigger guys who still want to ride shorter boards. It’s wider than your normal board and from 2 ¼” to 2 ½” thick. Deep single to double concave gives great speed and agility. Generous rocker in both ends allows this board to perform tight in the pocket. Construction: Standard PU construction. 2 x 4oz deck, 1 x 4oz bottom. Fins: FCS PC7 make it fly. Shaper comment: This board is one of the best outlines I’ve seen and everyone who’s got one says the same thing - OUTSTANDING. It’s fast, loose and light and it works best on it’s rail.

Shaper: Tully St. John

Dimensions: 5’10” x 18” x 2 ¼” A rounded square single concave.

CARABINE SURFBOARDS 36 Finders Street Wollongong, NSW Ph/Fax: 02 4229 9462

Construction: PU Core, inlays digital print, 4 x 4 x 4 glassing. Fins: Future fins or FCS fusion. Shaper comment: Custom made on the Gold Coast – great for young hot rats.

INTRUDER SURFBOARDS Ph: 0409 727 735

160

Construction: PU Core, inlays digital print, 4 x 4 x 4 glassing. Custom-made to suit the individual. Fins: FCS Fusion or Future Shaper comment: Top quality blanks and glassing, Call to discuss your custom.

INTRUDER SURFBOARDS Ph: 0409 727 735

Unit 7, 37 Hillcrest Pde, MIAMI, QLD 4220

E: dinosdings@gmail.com www.mcsurf.com.au

carabinesurfboards.com.au

Dimensions: To suit customer Ideal conditions: 2-6ft Ability: Intermediate to professional Suits: Over 95 kgs Description: Performance small to medium wave board. Construction: PU or Epoxy Fin set-up: Thruster or quad option Shaper comment: This is a great design. It is slightly wider and shorter than the Allrounder. Deep single concave with a double imbedded in tail section, slightly less rocker and fast loose plan shape. Good in the air and will still drive through turns on rail.

NOOSA SURFWORKS 11 Bartlett St, Noosaville QLD Ph: 07 5474 4567 E: info@noosasurfworks.com.au

noosasurfworks.com.au

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LITTLE GENERAL

THE WILD ONE

THE STUBBIE

THE ISLANDER

FLIP TAIL LOG

Shaper: Lee Cheyne Dimensions: 5’7” x 19 ¼” x 2 3/8” Ideal: Small beachies Ability level: Beginner to advanced Suits: Anyone looking to have the most fun in small waves. Description: Flat and wide with lots of concave. Medium boxy rails with a hip rounded square tail. Construction: Burford foam, Surf 9 4oz glass and Silmar resin. Fins: FCS or Futures Shaper comment: A nice fast board with lots of volume great for the summer slop!

Shaper: Lee Cheyne Dimensions: 6’2” x 19 1/8” x 2 7/16” Ideal: 2-6ft Ability level: All Suits: Custom for Craig, for Sunny Coast waves. Description: Dean Brady’s rocker of choice for his normal shorties. Medium rocker with nice deep single into double concave with a low boxy rail. Construction: Burford foam, Surf 9 4oz glass and Silmar resin. Fins: FCS or Futures Shaper comment: This board has a really nice blend of curves and looks and goes amazing.

Shaper: Michael Cundith Dimensions: 6’ x 21 ½” x 2 ¾” or custom made to any size Ideal: Small to medium surf Suits: All types of surfer Description: A remake of my 1960’s model with an updated bottom shape and rocker, with slight concave chines and bottom to tail pod vee. Great for paddling into waves, fantastic for late take-offs as it’s wide and stable, and accelerates instantly. You can actually feel it rise up on top of the water. 5-fin setup works perfectly for the wide tail. It holds in, is still loose and has heaps of drive with amazing trim speed. It can be made to any size. Construction: Strong and not too heavy Fins: Single or twin keel, 3 ,4 and 5 Shaper comment: This board is a winner - we are getting heaps of favorable feedback.

Shaper: Michael Cundith Dimensions: 6’6” x 20 ½” x 2 ½” up to 7’6” x 22” x 3” or any custom size Ideal: Small to big surf to strong indo waves Suits: Young and old surfers, made to suit all Description: This new model designed and sculpted by MC has a narrower tail than our Fish. Slight single to double concave, wide point in front of centre Construction: Standard , strong, not too heavy and very durable Fins: Thruster, quad, 5-fin or even single fin Shaper comment: Great paddler. Fast and loose. Indo reports are unreal and local comments great. The Islander suits all surfers. This rocket holds in so well and is fast and manoeuverable. Stoked.

Shaper: Nigel Perrow Dimensions: To suit customer Ideal conditions: Small to medium size surf Ability: Intermediate to professional Suits: Over 95 kgs Description: This is the ultimate noseriding machine. Its fuller outline, 50/50 rail configuration and tail flip make it oh so easy to noseride. It’s ridden by pros from all over the world for specialty noseriding events. Construction: PU or Epoxy Fin set-up: Big single fixed or box Shaper comment: If you are looking to improve your noseriding and logging skills this is the board for you.

LEE CHEYNE DESIGNS 19/48 Machinery Dr, Tweed Heads South NSW 2486 Ph: 07 5523 3237 lcdboards@gmail.com myspace.com/454626994 tradewindsurf.com.au

MICHAEL CUNDITH SURF DESIGNS Ph: 02 6685 8778 3 Banksia Dve, Byron Bay Industrial Estate BYRON BAY NSW 2481 E: info@mcsurf.com.au www.mcsurf.com.au

NOOSA SURFWORKS 11 Bartlett St, Noosaville QLD Ph: 07 5474 4567

w ww.facebook.com/ people/Lee-CheyneSurfboards/1620685674

E: info@noosasurfworks.com.au

noosasurfworks.com.au

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS THE

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WORLDLY KNOWLEDGE,

LOCAL INSIGHT

LEIGHTON CLARK OF CLARK SURFBOARDS EXPLAINS THE THINKING AND PHILOSOPHY BEHIND HIS SURFBOARD BUILDING LEIGHTON CLARK Clark Surfboards BORN Wales INFLUENCES Surfing and skating FIRST BOARD SHAPED In my dad’s garage at 14 SHAPED FOR Lipstix, Cutloose & Powerplug

“A LITTLE BIT MORE FOAM IN YOUR BOARD WILL GREATLY ENHANCE YOUR PERFORMANCE IN THE WATER.“

Leighton is a shaper who is always keeping an eye on what’s happening in board design and construction around the world and talking to major material suppliers and international surfboard companies. His designs involve utilising what he know works in high performance boards worldwide and blending them with what works locally. “As a shaper I want to work with the customer and develop a relationship where I can take my years of knowledge and experience to ‘almost evolve’ a board specific to what the customer wants. My aim is to create a surfboard that will enhance their surfing experience. A surfboard tailor made to suit that individual and suit local conditions, this is something only a local shaper can provide for SA surfers. I like to call it the ‘Adelaide factor’. “There is a stark difference in your average beach breaks around the world and the waves we surf every day in Adelaide or Victor Harbor. Unless you’re a stand out in the water, a little bit more foam in your board will greatly enhance your performance in the water. You’ll catch more waves, enjoy your surfing a lot more, after all, that’s why we surf… fun and enjoyment. Playing around with a bit more volume and area helps make your board more forgiving on the ‘mid’ or Middleton, and will still perform fine when ‘that’ swell arrives. “Some of the most influential individuals and up and coming shapers in the world market are originally from Adelaide. I’d like to think that the ‘Adelaide factor’ makes a shaper super perceptive in understanding what a surfer needs. “Personally, I love bringing back the art of custom surfcraft… tinted glass, gloss, timber veneer, digital artwork. One fin, two, three, four, five! 6’ x 18 3/8” or 6’ x 22 ¼”. Different body dimensions, fitness, skill and injuries all contribute to differing needs in a custom shape. Clark Surfboards have also developed some new and interesting construction methods in their pursuit of performance and durability. “This can be as simple as reinforcing a particular section of your standard PU board by reinforcing the glass in susceptible areas through to exotic extruded polystyrene, high density blanks glassed in the best UV resistant epoxy resins, carbon fibre or Kevlar fabrics and vacuum bagging techniques. The opportunities are endless.”

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DRAFT

THE JETT

Shaper: L eighton Clark Specs: 7’6”x 20 ¾” x 2 5/8” Ideal conditions: Great board to get out at your local...and rips on small average surf Suits: All family members... girlfriend... summer fun... beginners... lazy bastards... (sprays suits girls or retro seekers) Construction: This board is made from premium materials. Burford PU foam, Silmar resins, Aerialite glass. We can do custom artwork or digital graphics. Fins: Shapers fins & plugs. Sprays: No problemo. Customs, Pics, flowers, digital graphics, anything.. Shaper comment: WE LISTEN, WE TALK and WE CREATE a board to suit your requirements. Customs are our speciality. Love to hear about what you are riding, and what you want to ride.

Shaper: L eighton Clark Specs: 7’6”x 21 ¾”x 2 ¾” Ideal conditions: Great board to get out at your local...and rips on small average surf Suits: All family members... girlfriend... summer fun... beginners... lazy bastards... Construction: Made from premium materials. Burford PU foam, Silmar resins, Aerialite glass, .... also available in XPS, EPS, and epoxy laminates. Our glassing guy, Mick, is one of the most experienced in the industry - clocking over 25,000 boards over 40 years. We can do custom artwork or digital graphics. Fins: Shapers fins and plugs. Sprays: No problemo. Customs, Pics, flowers, digital graphics, anything.. Shaper comment: WE LISTEN, WE TALK and WE CREATE a board to suit your requirements. Customs are our speciality. Love to hear about what you are riding, and what you want to ride.

Shaper: Scott Newman Specs: 5’7”x 19” x 2 3/16’’ Ideal conditions: Beach beaks, small to 4ft waves. Suits: Intermediate to advanced. Description: The Jett has a low entry and tail rocker, making it a good all-rounder through the summer. It features a round tail and single concave and this board is FAST. Construction: Foam and fibreglass. Fins: 5 way fin setup been most popular. It goes sick as a quad and thruster. Shaper comment: A high-performance fish and has been our most popular model so far. All the feedback we get is everyone is loving it. Goes so fast down the line. All the boys that love to boost - THIS IS THE ONE. Ride this board 4-5’’ shorter, 1/4’’wider and an 1/8’’ thinner then your standed shortboard.

CLARK SURFBOARDS 20 Cottage Road, Hackham SA E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au

M: 0422 443 789

Available at www.onboardsurf.com.au

CLARK SURFBOARDS 20 Cottage Road, Hackham SA E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au

M: 0422 443 789

Available at www.onboardsurf.com.au

SLS SURFBOARDS 2/57 George St, Moffat Beach, QLD 4551 Ph: Scott 0424 314 183 slssurfboards.com.au

CAFE TWINNIE

THE FLYER

Shaper: Scott Newman

Shaper: Steve Barber Dimensions: 6’4” x 19 ¾” x 2 3/8“ Ideal conditions: Excellent everyday board Suits: Anyone Description: Flattish entry for easy paddling, single into double concave with tail vee on larger versions. Double flyers in planshape give greater tail width for drive thru turns in any conditions with better hold in larger waves as a bonus. Construction: Polyurethane Fins: Thruster or Quad. (Quad is best as 4 channel) Shaper comment: This is a rare all round board design. Great in ordinary surf through to pumping South Straddie or Snapper. Fast, manoeuverable, easy to surf, yet highperformance as well and forgiving when you’re having a bad day!

Specs: 5’8’’x 21’½’’x 2’ 5/8’’ Ideal: Summer time. Suits: Open minded surfers Description: Small to medium wave board. Super fun and fast, runs a rolled bottom to a rolled v with twin hand foiled keel fins, a low rocker for easy paddling and just a fun board to ride when the sun’s out. Construction: Foam and fibreglass with resin tint and full polish Fins: Timber or glass keel fins, stick-on or future Shaper comment: Get one for summer - you wont be let down.

SLS SURFBOARDS 2/57 George St, Moffat Beach, QLD 4551 Ph: Scott 0424 314 183 slssurfboards.com.au

STEVE BARBER/FULL FORCE

18/48 Machinery Drive Tweed Heads South Ph: 07 5524 2933 fullforcesurf@hotmail.com Join us on Facebook nov/dec 2011

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS

PINK SPRAY

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Kne

Dee big wooden fin, handmade especially for the Log

“Oh Huey, let thee part the waters, for I am Geoff...”

OLD SCHOOL LOG

PP ALL-ROUNDER

DRUMSTICK

Shaper: G eoff Barden Dimensions: 9’10” Come in and see Ideal conditions: Clean cruisy waves Suits: The midlife crisis Ability level: Remember... Midlife crisis Description: We racked our brains trying to put together a spiel, but hey... It’s an old-school log. It’s big. Its heavy. But it’s gooooood. Construction: This board has a 9mm stringer, 3 x 6oz on deck, 2 x 6oz on bottom with a 6oz tail patch and resin tint. Fins: This one has an 8” custom cedar/balsa ‘D’fin. Custom glass, timber glassed-on or box. Shaper comment: All custom orders welcome - we don’t discriminate. It can have cream bun hips, or nice, smooth Hawaiian lines. I’m hooked on riding them and making them.

Shaper: Phil Pepper Specs: 9’2” x 22 ¾” x 2 7/8” Ideal conditions: All conditions that suit a mal. Suits: Everyone Description: A modern mal inspired by traditional shape, great all-rounder for all standards. You chose the rails and tail to your performance - the beauty of custom shapes. Construction: Polyster. Standard glassing. Protec or gloss and buff finish Fins: 10” Box, FCS side or not. Shaper comment: A modern board with traditional feel you can’t go wrong. Call for a custom.

Shaper: Chad Ryan Dimensions: 5’7” x 19 7/8” x 2 5/16” Ideal conditions: 1 - 6ft. Ability level: Intermediate to advanced Description: With demand for shorter and wider boards, the Drumstick was born. 5-fin setup to give options for all conditions. Best used as a quad to ensure full speed is reached from take off. Fast, loose with loads of drive and amazing response. Construction: Polyester. Team or standard glassing. S Glass now available Fins: 5 x FCS setup for quad or thruster. Shaper comment: The ultimate board designed for progressive surfing.

SKIPP SURFBOARDS

FACTORY SHOWROOM

24 Flinders St North Wollongong, NSW Ph: 02 4228 8878 CITY SURF CENTRE

PADDLE TRIBE Geoff: 0408 701 467 Steve: 0421 994 649 E: info@paddletribe.com.au www.paddletribe.com.au

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Shaper: Dave Parkes Specs: 5’10” x 23 ½”x 2 5/8” Ideal: All rounder but likes a bit of a pocket and hollower sections Suits: Above dimensions are for a +/-80kg surfer in all types of surf. Can be souped up and refined for those who want to give it a bit of a push or mellowed out for more margin of error and cruisers Description: Over the years this shape has turned into a classic staple. Tried and proven. Construction: Glassed with 6oz, midweight Surfblanks foam. Fins: Tri Fin. Big sides (like a twin) with a smaller stabiliser, or a large thruster template side fin and smaller thruster template centre fin. Glassed-ons available. Shaper comment: As usual this is only an example of what can be done .Customs are the go .

FACTORY SHOWROOM

24 Flinders St North Wollongong, NSW Ph: 02 4228 8878 CITY SURF CENTRE

231 Crown Street Wollongong City, NSW Ph: 02 4229 1202

E: factory@skippsurfboards.com.au

skippsurfboards.com.au

AREA ROUNDED PIN

skippsurfboards.com.au

Friar Tuck

PARKES AUSTRALIA 4/83 Centennial Circuit Byron Bay, NSW Ph: 02 6685 6627 E: d-par@bigpond.com parkesaustralia.com

8/11/11 1:05 PM

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

Kneel brother, kneel.!

GEAR: BOARDS

Float like a butterfly, sting like a Bumble Bee

DIAMOND TAIL

BG SHORTBOARD

BD FISH

BUMBLE BEE

FLYING FISH

Shaper: Dave Parkes Specs: 5’8” x 23” x 2 ¾” Ideal: Waves with a nice wall and room to move Suits: Anyone who likes a board that likes to keep going without being “pumped” all the time. Description: The fuller nose and tail dimensions means this board can be surfed shorter without losing area and planing ability. Readily accepts 2, 3 or 4-fin setups. Construction: EPS or PU. Whatever you want. Fins: FCS, Futures, Powerbase or glass-ons. Shaper comment: The Diamond Tail has never gone away. As a kneeboard outline it has been shaped constantly since the 70s. Lately I have been working with Albert Munoz to achieve a more performance orientated version of this classic shape.

Shaper: Greg Hogan Length: 6’1” - 7’6” Width: 19 ½” - 21” Thickness: 2 ½” - 3” Description: Perfect for the intermediate, heavier or older surfer who still wants to surf a shortboard. A fuller outline and more nose area, combined with a round tail make this board very easy to paddle, yet keeps the performance feel. Also perfect for the next step from your first board! Construction: Handshaped PU blank, 6 and 4oz deck, 6 or 4oz bottom. Fins: FCS or Futures in a thruster setup. Shaper comment: I really try to set the dimensions to suit each individual rider, but this extension of my standard performance shortboard definitely has the same feel. It can seem like you’re riding something a lot smaller than it actually is.

Shaper: Glyndyn Ringrose Length: 5’6” - 6’6” Width: 19” - 21 ½" Thickness: 2 ¼” - 2 ¾" Description: A loose and skatey feel underfoot, this performance fish works well in small to medium sized surf. A rounder outline and bottom curve combined with single/ double concave and a diamond tail adds up to a whole lot of summer fun! Construction: Handshaped PU blank, 6 and 4oz deck, 4oz bottom. Fins: FCS or Futures in a thruster or quad setup. Shaper comment: Fast becoming one of our most popular designs, especially leading into the summer months. As always, the custom option allows you to tweak specifications to suit your needs.

Shaper: Mark Richards Length: 5’6”- 6’8” Width: 21”- 22 ¼” Thickness: 2 ½”- 2 7/8” Ideal conditions: 1-3 foot Description: A new fish model for Summmer 2011 based on the 1st twin fin I shaped in 1976. Traditional fish outline with a wing swallow to help rail-to-rail transition, single to double concave bottom. Construction: Burford Pu Foam, Burford Surf 9 Glass, Silmar USA Resin Fins: FCS twins, or option for thruster or quad set-up. Shaper’s Comment: This board will be so much fun in small summer surf that you will be checking the surf report hoping for ‘crap’ surf so you can ride it!!!

Shaper: Mark Richards Length: 5’6”- 7’6” Width: 19 ½”- 22 ¼” Thickness: 2 3/8”- 3” Ideal conditions: 2-6 foot Description: A performance semi-fish. The full nose and thickness distribution makes it really easy to paddle. Single to double concave bottom for speed and a wing swallow tail which makes it easy to get up on a rail for turns. Construction: Burford Pu Foam, Burford Surf 9 Glass, Silmar USA Resin Fins: FCS thruster or optional 2 + 1, quad or 5-fin set-up Shaper’s Comment: This is the most popular model in my range because it fits between a narrow thruster and a wide fish, so it can be ridden in a variety of conditions from small to decent size surf.

ISLAND SURFBOARDS 147 Thompson Ave, Cowes, Phillip Island VIC Ph: 03 5952 2578 E: cowes@ islandsurfboards.com.au islandsurfboards.com.au

MARK RICHARDS SURFBOARDS 755 Hunter Street, Newcastle West NSW Australia 2300 Ph: 02 4961 3088 Fax: 02 4961 6872

CUSTOM KNEEBOARDS B Y R O N

B A Y

A U S T R A L I A

PARKES AUSTRALIA 4/83 Centennial Circuit Byron Bay, NSW Ph: 02 6685 6627 E: d-par@bigpond.com parkesaustralia.com

markrichardssurfboards.com

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TWIN FISH

FISH-FINGER

THE RFX

THE VENOM

Shaper: Mark PridMORE Specs: 5’10” x 20” x 2 ¾” Ideal: Super FUN in smallish waves. Doesn’t matter if its peeling or crap, still get ya stoked Suits: open minded people who are willing to try something fresh and FUN... Description: A high-volume slab of semi-finless FUN. They have training keels but can be ridden finless. The fins can be reversed for different amounts of hold depending if you want to spin or trim. They give a bit of the freedom of finless, but with some hold and drive. Crazy FUN and addictive. Construction: Good old PU foam and fibreglass Fins: Sometimes... Training keels or none Shapers Comment: This is a custom for a guy who rode three Fish-Fingers at a demo day. He was very surprised how well they went and you will be too.

Shaper: Jim Parkinson (Shaping at Jackson’s since 1974) Dimensions: 6’10” x 22” x 3” Conditions: Small to medium sized waves Suits: Beginner to advanced surfers riding a short board but needing a bigger board for smaller days, surfers coming down from a Malibu and bigger guys not wanting to ride a Malibu Description: Big fish RFX - Sizes 6’4 to 8’4. Construction: PU foam with polyester resin. Fins: Five-fin setup, FCS plus. Ridden as thruster or quad. Comes with fins. Shaper comment: Don’t be fooled by the volume. This board is very manueverable from the tail and very quick down the line. Pretty much allround board that you can catch heaps of waves on.

Shaper: Jim Parkinson (Shaping at Jackson’s since 1974)

Shaper: Woody Jack

Dimensions: 5’5”x 19 5/8 x 2 ½“

Dimensions: 6’1”x 19 ¼” x 2 3/8”

Ideal conditions: 1-5 foot

Ideal conditions: 2-6 foot

Suits: Smaller beachies and point breaks

Suits: All good points, beachbreaks and reefbreaks

Ability: Intermediate to advanced surfers

Description: pigmented twin fish

Description: High performance short board for guys over 80kg. Single to double concave.

Construction: Burford polyurethane blank, with 6oz pigment Fins: FCS FK2 Shaper comment: Great fun when the waves are a little smaller and gutless. Super responsive from top to bottom, but also holds plenty of speed out on the face of the wave... A really fun board for summer.

WOODY JACK SURFBOARDS AUSTRALIA

Unit 7, 25 Leonard Parade, Currumbin QLD Ph: 0415 789 706 E: wjboards@gmail.com www.woodyjack.com 166

SHORTBOARD

Construction: Burford polyurethane blank, 4 x 4oz deck, 4oz bottom glassed with Surf 9 cloth and Silmar resin Fins: FCS FK2.1 Shaper comment: Enjoy your surfing, get barrelled, bust your fins out and keep smiling... Woody

WOODY JACK SURFBOARDS AUSTRALIA

MORE SURFBOARDS

Unit 7, 25 Leonard Parade, Currumbin QLD Ph: 0415 789 706 E: wjboards@gmail.com www.woodyjack.com

www.moresurfboards.com Also available through Da Bomb Surf Centres in Maroochydore and Bokarina. www.dabombsurf.com.au

Ph: 0405 475 026

JACKSON SURFBOARDS 57 Captain Cook Drive, Caringbah, NSW Open 7 days Ph: 02 9524 2700 Mobile: 0407 909 137

Dimensions: 6’ x 20 ¾” x 2 11/16” Conditions: 1-5ft Suits: Beginner to Advanced Description: Mini, nini Malibu from 5’3 to 8’. Construction: PU foam with polyester resin. Fins: 10’ box in centre with FCS quad fins (supplied with board) for any combination of fins. Shaper comment: Super fun to ride. Can be ridden with any combination of fins, can be a noserider or surfed like a shortboard from the tail.

JACKSON SURFBOARDS 57 Captain Cook Drive, Caringbah, NSW Open 7 days Ph: 02 9524 2700 Mobile: 0407 909 137

www.jacksonsurfboards.com.au

Join us on facebook

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS THE WALL HANGER

THE SURFBOARD

THE HOT DOG

THE BIG EASY

DUMPLING

OK NOW THAT I HAVE YOUR ATTENTION...

Shaper: Ralph Riddell Specs: Whatever you want, but this one is 5’11” x 18’ 5/8” x 2’¼” Description: I could bore you with how this board is fast but loose, strong but light, good for airs and tubes and can surf in all conditions from 1ft to 10ft. But I won’t... Shapers Comments: When you buy a new board you are also buying a little piece of the person that made it. It’s a vibe thing. So if you want a board that goes well but also has a good energy about it, then call Ralphie for custom shapes.

Shaper: Dean “Dino” Tziolis Dimensions: 5’4” - 6’ Suits: Anyone - Custom Description: Fun shortboard. Super quick, easy to get up and planing, yet responds positively to rider input. Wider planshape for small surf. Enough rocker for medium surf. Ride about 4” shorter than a standard shortboard. Original print Goodtime logos - it’s a piece of Australian surfing history. Construction: South Coast Foam. 2 x 4oz glass. Rails are lapped on the bottom edge in carbon Fins: AFC Shaper comment: Goodtime prides itself on making quality surfboards and has done so since 1971. Whether it’s a classic shape, a performance thruster or a simple fish tail, no matter how many fins... its been here or its in here. Goodtime is what surfing is all about. Over thirty years later, we’re still having a good time surfing!

Shaper: Simon Jones Dimensions: 6’2” - 7’ Suits: Anyone - Custom Description: Semi roundhouse wing round tail with a vee through centre toward tail. Construction: Burford blank, fully handshaped. 6/6/6oz Bay Mills glass Silmar polyester resins. Fins: Thruster FCS set up Shaper comment: Goodtime prides itself on making quality surfboards and has done so since 1971. Whether it’s a classic shape, a performance thruster or a simple fish tail, no matter how many fins... its been here or its in here. Over thirty years later, we’re still having a good time surfing! Rider comment: “After catching a couple of waves went to the back and found it was really maneuverable, very fun and you could walk up and down it as well” Tyler Wright

Shaper: Mark PridMORE Specs: 5’5” x 20 5/8” x 2 ¾” (This is my personal board) Ideal: Those waves you never used to enjoy Suits: Custom for anybody Description: Inspired by the mini-Simmons (dim-SIM) but looking to make the ultimate groveller. It has flat rocker for speed, high volume so they paddle great and the bottom contours to make it super lively and responsive. Construction: Standard foam and fibreglass. Works well, feels great and is affordable. No carbon, kevlar or titanium, its a small wave surfboard, not the space shuttle Fins: Quad - fast, drivey and super responsive Shapers Comment: To enjoy small waves MORE, this is the board. It isnt an all rounder, no compromise on design features, this is totally for head high and below...

GOODTIME SURFBOARDS 29 Ipswich Rd, Woolloongabba QLD 4102 Ph: 07 3391 8588 info@goodtime.com.au www.goodtime.com.au

Look at the board on the right. Ralph Riddell won First Place - Best Artist for the Art of Surfing Competition 2010. This particular creation took second place in the Art of Surfing Competition 2011.

See this and more arty farty stuff on my Ralph Riddell Surfboard and Art Facebook. www.facebook.com/ pages/Ralph-RiddellSurfboards-andArtworks/120358388002237

RALPH RIDDELL M: 0412 828 848 retroralph@three.com.au

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RALPH RIDDELL M: 0412 828 848 retroralph@three.com.au

MORE SURFBOARDS

Ph: 0405 475 026

www.moresurfboards.com Also available through Da Bomb Surf Centres in Maroochydore and Bokarina. www.dabombsurf.com.au

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POPSTER PRO

OLD EIGHTY ONE

Shaper: Glen “Pugs” Johnson Dimensions: 6’4” x 19” x 2 3/8” Ideal conditions: Fast, hollow waves. Description: With a big curve on the bottom, this is a down-the-line, rail-torail barrell chaser. Construction: All gangsta boards are 100% hand shaped. 3ply stringers for strength Fins: FCS or Future Shaper comment: Fins are placed strategically for drive and release. Maximum curve to adapt to those sucky sections, but still a bit of meat to get out the back

Shaper: Ed Sinnott Specs: From 5’4 - 6’4” Get in touch for customs Ideal conditions: Anything up to 6’ Description: This is a combination of all my old single fin and twinfin templates combined with new school bottom curves and rails. The result is a sensational hybrid that flys. Flat entry, deep vortex concave, razor edges and wet and dry finish. Construction: Burford/ South Coast PU blanks, Silmar polyester resin, Colan and Surf Nine glass. This combination has stood the test of time. Fins: Quad or thruster Shaper comment: A unique and amazing hybrid board that goes ballistic in anything. Developed by Josh Sleep, Jono Salfeild and the Afends boys in Byron Bay. They see it as a majestic alternative for all round surfing. Tried and tested, it’s proved them right.

Shaper: Ed Sinnott Specs: From 5’4 - 6’4” Get in touch for customs Ideal conditions: Anything up the 6’ Description: Similar to the Popster and Whiplash, but has the deepest concave and widest nose of the three. I combined my single fin and old twin fin templates to get the 13’’ nose looking good and put the wide point 2’’ forward. Loose off the front foot and is multidirectional. Deep concave drives through dead sections. Construction: Burford/ South Coast PU blanks, Silmar polyester resin, Colan and Surf Nine glass. Fins: Quad or thruster Shaper comment: Developed along with Jake Spooner, a former top ten professional surfer who I first started making boards for in the early 80s. Extremely fast and stable in bigger sections, it can be surfed vertically as well.

ESP SURFBOARDS 2/81 Centennial Circuit Byron Bay, NSW Ph: 0404 059 321 www.espsurfshop.com.au www.edsinnott.com.au

GANGSTA SURFBOARDS Glen ‘Pugs’ Johnson Ph: 0438 158 993 or +62 81 805 534 069 (Bali) Mermaid Beach Store Shop 1/2558 Gold Coast Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach, QLD 4218 Ph: 07 5526 6969 Gangsta Surf - Bali Poppies Lane 1 Kuta Bali-Indonesia Ph: +62 361 767 174 www.gangstasurf.com

er Joel ESP Team Rid using e it h W ’ y e it h ‘W es in his extra sens Coffs Harbour. son Photo: Ben Jack

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS

POINTSTA

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MUFF DIVER

THE METRO 3

STUMP FISH

5-FIN FISH

HIGH PERFORMANCE MAXIMUM MALIBU

Shaper: Greg Brown Dimensions: 6’2” x 20 ¼ X 2 5/8” Ideal conditions: From super summer slop to 4ft Ability level: Intermediate to expert Description: Muff Diver is a board that is curvy, short and wide and offers a heap of fun and speed for the summer slop. It’s surfed 1” to 4” shorter then your height and is one for the quiver for this summer. Construction: Built to last. 6oz bottom, 10oz deck Fins: FCS Fusion Shaper comment: Quick, slick and gets you in the groove. Zak Surfboards has a massive range of Gash surfboards in store. Customs from Greg Brown can be ordered through Zak Surfboards in Melbourne.

Shaper: Maurice Cole Specs: 6’4” x 21” x 2 ¾” Ideal: 1-5ft Ability: Int. to advanced Description: Combines width and thickness of retro fish, but introduces tow-inspired bottom rocker and very deep concave. More width in tail for larger sweet spot. Accentuated change in curve loosens the board up. A foot in both camps, this replaces all Fish. Has stability and float while still maintaining the edgy characteristics of speed and rippability. Construction: PU blank, epoxy resin, 6oz bottom, 4 x 4oz deck. Fins: Future or FCS Shaper comment: Unlike old fish, it sits high on steep, fast sections and won’t morph into a shopping trolley style slide. This is no bog monster. Zak Surfboards holds a massive range of Metros, Protows and offers customs from Maurice Cole Surfboards.

Shaper: Andrew Stump Dimensions: 5’10” x 20” x 2 ½” Ideal: Flat, fat, up to 4ft Ability level: Beginners to advanced Description: Catches waves with ease due to volume and area in the nose - in conjuction with the rocker, makes the board super fast with heaps of drive. It comes in different tail configurations, but the swallow has proven to be best. Construction: Standard in PU/polyester or EPS/epoxy but now in conjunction with Howie at Baggies, we’re doing an epoxy that’s twice as strong and half the weight. Fins: Thrusters and Quad. Futures or FCS Fusion. Shaper comment: Contact Zak or pop into the shop and check out the range of boards. Order customs through Zak Surfboards.

Shaper: Stewart Maxwell Specs: 6’ x 20 ½” x 2 ¼” Ideal conditions: 1-5 foot Description: Great paddler can be used as a quad or thruster. Five fin set up. Construction: High performance 4 x 4 x 4 glassing or any combo you like with whatever tail you prefer. Fins: 5-fin fibreglass Shaper’s Comment: Easy paddler, flat deck rocker, concave bottom. All boards are custom and fitted with SBT Surfboard Tracker security systems. As a custom specialist with 40 years experience. I make surfboards with personality, talk with you, find out exactly what you require and then make it.

Shaper: Stewart Maxwell Specs: 9’1” x 22 ½” x 2 ¾” Ideal conditions: 1ft to as big as you would like to put it into. Description: Concave nose to flat, to 6mm V with double-barrell concaves through tail. Any tail you like. Construction: Double 6oz deck with 6oz bottom or any combo you require. Fins: Comes with 10” fin box, 9.5” fibreglass pivot fin and two trailers Shaper’s Comment: Modern Malibu you can noseride. It’s very manoeuvrable and won’t let you down. All boards are custom and fitted with SBT Surfboard Tracker security systems. As a custom specialist with 40 years experience. I make surfboards with personality, talk with you, find out exactly what you require and then make it.

ZAK SURFBOARDS 307 Victoria Road Thornbury VIC 3071 Ph: 03 9416 7384 Mobile: 0438 416 738 zak@zaksurfboards.com zaksurfboards.com

MAXIMUM SURF PTY LTD Currumbin QLD 4223 Ph: 07 5559 5940 Mob: 0400 338 098

maximumsurfdesigns.com

maximumsurf@bigpond.com

nov/dec 2011

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THE WESTY

SINGLE FIN

FLEXTAIL

GOLDFISH

Shaper: Jade Robinson Dimensions: 6’4”x 19 ½” x 2 ½” Ideal conditions: 1-6ft Ability level: Intermediate and up. Suits: All Description: Semi all-rounder. A little extra foam to keep the flow. This board has the same concaves and tweaked vee as The Westy to keep it fast and loose but with slightly more entry rocker. Construction: PU Fins: Thruster Shaper comment: A board that still has plenty of performance as well as being user friendly, with a softer feel all around. This board teamed with the Shapers S-Plugs and fins means the level of looseness is uo to you.

Shaper: Jade Robinson

Shaper: Paul Carson

Dimensions: 6’ x 20” x 2 5/8”

Dimensions: 7’4” x 21 ½” x 3”

Ideal conditions: 2-5ft

Ideal conditions: 2 - 6ft

Ability level: All. Suits all weights

Suits: Anyone

Shaper: Jed Done Specs: 6’1”x 20 ¼” x 2 5/8” Ideal: Shoulder high to double over head. Description: All round flextail quad, born from 11 years of riding and refining flextails.Wedge stringer, wide point forward, deep concave underfoot, foil shape and negative rocker in flextail all lead towards speed and drive. The ‘v’ in the flextail gives the rail rocker a hip that lines up with the leading edge of the quad fins. Fins have a slight twist in the tip for a wider sweet spot, allowing the board to go from rail to rail easily. This all means a fast board that turns well. Construction: Dion PU foam. Single wedged stringer. Tinted glass bottom with resin pinline. Carbon fiber flextail . Fins: 4WFS for flexibility Shaper comment: Works from 5’5” to 7’. It goes best 2-3” shorter, ½” wider and ¼” thicker than your regular shortboard. Don’t be afraid of the dark, these things go like a cut snake!!

Shaper: Jed Done Specs: 6’1”x 20 5/8” x 2 3/8” Ideal: Waist high to 4ft. Superb in the shit and outstanding in quality. Ability: Intermediate to advanced. Description: Swallow tail Reverse-Curve Flextail. Initially built for summer slop but like all boards goes well in good surf. Slight V through to concave in the tail. Semi keel side fins with a stabilizer or back quad fins. Flatter than regular rocker. The whole board is geared up for down the line flow. Construction: Dion PU foam. Twin timber stringers with balsa nose block, carbon fibre flextail. Fins: 4 Way Fin System SK Semi Keels. Shaper comment: The board was a custom for a Central Coast surfer, 6’3” high and weighing 92kg, for long point breaks to idyllic beachies.

DSN SURFBOARDS/ JADE ROBINSON SHAPES 31 Rowlins Road, Gerringong NSW 2534 Ph: 02 4234 1931 M: 0402 944 672 dsnsurfboards@gmail.com

Suits: All weights Description: Super fun small wave board for all levels of surfer. Extra foam to get ya up and into ‘em nice and early. The Westy can be custom ordered to suit. Construction: PU Fins: Thruster or Quad. Shaper comment: Fun, loose and fast. Low rocker with single to double concave through fins, fusing with a tweaked vee.

Description: Double flyer, round pin single fin. Very light concave running to vee in tail. Construction: Burford blank. Red tint all over with pinlines. Fins: Set single fin, handmade. Shaper comment: Bigger board for someone chasing single fin cruise.

THE FACTORY SURFBOARDS CALOUNDRA 17 Allen Street Caloundra QLD 4551 Ph: 07 5492 5838 paul@thefactorysurfboards.com.au thefactorysurfboards.com.au

BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS Merimbula NSW Ph: 0409 813 431 E: jed@bushrat.com www.bushrat.com

BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS Merimbula NSW Ph: 0409 813 431 E: jed@bushrat.com www.bushrat.com nov/dec 2011

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS

THE WORM

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8/11/11 1:24 PM

For surfers that like to go ‘Au Naturale’...

SWALLOWTAIL

THE LB FISH

THE EGG

Shaper: Dave O’Reilly Specs: 6’6” x 17” x ¾” Ideal: 1-4 foot and beyond Suits: Guys and girls with an open mind. Anyone who wants to get their slide on! Ability: Beginner to advanced, a good size to start your Alaia love affair on. Description: Shaped from premium grade Paulownia, this board has retro looks with ancient performance. A single concave from under your front foot to tail, and rails that are soft rolled at the edges allow sliding but not biting into the wave face. Construction: 100% Australian grown and milled Paulownia, sealed with raw linseed and gum turpentine concoction. Fins: No fins baby – just fast and friction-free. Shaper comment: If you haven’t surfed an Alaia yet then get some wood under your feet. These boards are super-fast and will take you back to surfing in its purest form…FUN!

Shaper: Andrew Wells Specs: 5’10” x 21 ½” x 2 3/8” Ideal: Small to medium waves. Great for summer days. Description: Plenty of width under the chest gives it plenty of paddle power. Once up and running, this board flies. Being hollow timber the board has plenty of float and easily skips over any fat sections, while still maintaining speed and drive. Additional weight gives a nice smooth flow in the water for carving your turns with pure style. A great fun, responsive small wave magnet. Construction: Hollow timber. Plantation-grown Paulownia, recycled cedar. Fins: Twins fins, Keels, Quads Shaper comment: Great small wave board - one of my personal favorites. Every Grown board is individually hand crafted from recycled and plantation grown timber, takes over 30 hrs to hand craft and is completely unique. They look great, surf great and will give you years of enjoyment.

Shaper: Andrew Wells Specs: 6’4 x 21 ½ x 2 9/8” Ideal conditions: Small to medium waves. Great for summer days. Description: Wider nose and slightly drawn-in tail, slightly softer rails and is a little more forgiving through manoeuvres without compromising the ride. Being hollow timber, the board has plenty of float and easily skips over any fat sections, while still maintaining speed and drive. The additional weight in a timber board gives them a nice smooth flow in the water. Construction: Hollow timber. Plantation-grown Paulownia, recycled cedar. Fins: Single Shaper comment: A great fun alternative board for any day. Every Grown board is individually hand crafted from recycled and plantation grown timber, takes over 30 hrs to hand craft and is completely unique. They look great, surf great and will give you years of enjoyment.

SURFING GREEN Coolum Beach, QLD Mobile: 0412 042 811 surfinggreen.com.au

172

GROWN SURFBOARDS Lennox Head

PO Box 801, Ballina NSW 2478

Ph: 0407 889 049

sales@grownsurfboards.com.au

grownsurfboards.com.au

GROWN SURFBOARDS Lennox Head

PO Box 801, Ballina NSW 2478

Ph: 0407 889 049

sales@grownsurfboards.com.au

grownsurfboards.com.au

PERFORMANCE PRO

6-CHANNEL

Shaper: S am Egan Dimensions: Order from 5’6” to 7’2” Ideal conditions: 0-6ft Ability level: Advanced. Description: Developed over years of feedback from teamriders. Single to double concave, round or square tail. Construction: 100% Handmade in Australia, Bennett or South Coast blanks. Dion polyester resin, custom glassed. Fins: Futures or Surfinz Shaper comment: This board is only for highly skilled surfer. Colour on this board by award winning artist Daniel Joyce. Available from Manly Surfboards (formerly Base) and Sanbah, Merewether Junction.

Shaper: S am Egan Dimensions: Order from 5’6” to 7’2” Ideal conditions: Hollow fast down the line to 8ft. Ability level: Intermediate to advanced. Description: Fast and drivey with down the line speed. Single to double concave with 6 channels swallow tail or diamond. Custom only. Construction: 100% Handmade in Australia, Bennett or South Coast blanks. Dion polyester resin, custom glassed. Fins: FCS thruster only Shaper comment: Good for surfing bigger waves on a smaller board. Available from Manly Surfboards (formerly Base) and Sanbah, Merewether Junction.

SAM EGAN SURFBOARDS 28 Maitland Road Islington NSW 2296 Ph: 02 4969 7299 info@samegan.com www.samegan.com.au

nov/dec 2011

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DURBO MODEL

THE MEGAFISH

SKIP JACK

Shaper: Wayne McKewen Specs: 5’11” x 19 ¼” x 2 7/16” Ideal: Anywhere from small beachies to medium point or reef waves. Suits: Surfers looking for better performance in a small wave board Description: These boards are stringerless to maximise flex. They have flatter rockers and a bit more volume as they need to be quite short to get the maximum benefit from the design. Most are vee bottoms and there are nine tail variations. Length is from 5’7” to 6’0”. Construction: PU Burford blank, 4 x 4oz decks and 4oz bottom. Fins: All have FCS 5-fin set ups to allow you to use as a thruster or a quad. Shaper comment: Added flex translates to a whippy feel and acceleration through turns. Customer and team feedback has been excellent.

Shaper: Wayne McKewen Specs: 6’2” x 18 ½” x 2 ¼” Ideal conditions: 3-5ft good quality waves. Suits: Anyone looking for a high performance shortboard Ability: Intermediate to competition Description: Based on the boards made for Bede Durbidge, it’s a small range from 6’0” for smaller and lighter guys, to 6’4”for heavier surfers. Construction: PU Burford blank, 4 x 4oz decks and 4oz bottom. Fins: FCS thruster set up. Shaper comment: The feedback and refinement that comes from working with Bede is put into the stock version of the Durbo Model. If you like to push your surfing to new levels, the Durbo Model will do the trick.

Shaper: Paul Woodbry Specs: 6’9” x 22 5/8” x 2 3/8” Ideal: ½’ to 6’ Indo waves Suits: All levels Description: Blend of a 8’ board in the paddling and wave catching abilities, with the speed and turning personality of a shortboard that you can nose ride. We called it a megafish because that is how it should be ridden. Construction: Polyester resin and Southcoast blanks. Fins: 2+1 longboard set up Shaper comment: An extension of the 6’6 Megafish, inspired by my brother who rides a 9’1 - he loved the idea but wanted a bit more length. He’s surfed it in Indo and couldn’t fault it. I haven’t found conditions that didn’t turn out to be a fun surf. Great for the learner unsure of a big board and even better for someone who can surf it to it’s full potential. It’ll fit inside your car if you go to the shops. Woody Surf Design boards exclusively available from:

Shaper: Bronte Bampton Specs: 6’0” x 19 ½” x 2 3/8” Suits: Average to very experienced surfer Description: A good all-round board that adapts to most conditions. Great wave catcher, fast and very responsive. Single to deep double quad. Available in sizes from 5’ to 6’6”. Construction: PU foam, FGI polyester resins, Aerolite cloth. Fins: Quad. Shaper comment: This board was tested on the West Coast of SA and the prototype was ridden in 1ft mush to 5ft+ quality surf. It just kept performing extremely well in all conditions. This would have to be one of my best selling boards, each new owner gives it the thumbs up and great reviews.

MT WOODGEE SURFBOARDS Stores at Coolangatta, Currumbin, Burleigh Heads Ph: 07 5535 0288

www.mtwoodgee.com.au

SURFWARE AUSTRALIA

2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD 4551 Ph: 07 5491 3620 surfwareaustralia.com

LIQUID STIX SURFBOARDS Moana, South Australia Ph: 0407 606 685 E: liquidstix@bigpond.com www.liquidstix.com.au Available @ MCS & Preece’s

PATTERNED MAL Shaper: Bronte Bampton Specs: 9’0” x 22 ½” x 2 3/8”- 3” Suits: 1-6 ft average to quality surf Description: Real performance mal. Single concave with slight to deep doubles through fins and a single out the tail. Medium entry with good tail lift med/low rails. Construction: PU blank, FGI resins, Aerolite cloth. Team: 4 x 4 x 4 Stock: 6 x 6 x 6 Fins: Shapers Quad fins Shaper comment: This board is ridden by our team riders. Fast, really responsive. Great nose rider and loose on turns.

LIQUID STIX SURFBOARDS Moana, South Australia Ph: 0407 606 685 E: liquidstix@bigpond.com www.liquidstix.com.au Available @ MCS & Preece’s nov/dec 2011

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS

MINI BULLET

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8/11/11 1:30 PM

DICK VAN STRAALEN

Trading as CLASSIC WATERMAN

DICK VAN STRAALEN has a passion for creating surfboards. Everything from the mad Wasp to sleek balsa guns - all totally hand made. With so many different shapes in his range it was difficult to choose just one shape for this ad. When you visit our Facebook site - Classic Waterman, you will see what we mean. Alternately, speak to the likeminded and passionate surfers who work at the stores that stock our boards. We pride ourselves in quality materials and workmanship, designed and made on the Gold Coast. Every surfer has some idea of what they like.

Happy Surfing.

THE Z4

Shaper: Goran Peko Dimensions: 6’5” x 22” x 2 ¾” Ideal conditions: Knee high to 5ft Suits: Everyone Description: Fast FUN with a quad or thruster set up.Paddles and duck dives really easy. Retro feel with beak nose, double flyers, plenty of foam and sprays as bright as you want. Construction: South Coast Foam PU foam and polyester resin with Shapers fins. Made to go the distance Fins: Quad or thruster. Shaper comment: My personal board, that’s given me lot of fun waves lately. Floats up to 107kg well,Ive made a few custom orders and everyone is really happy with the ride.

THE GF4

Shaper: Goran Peko Dimensions: 6’7” x 21 ½” x 2 ¾” Ideal conditions: Waist high to 6-8 ft, Suits: Everyone Description: Fast and a stable board that can take a drop. Quad or a thruster. Plenty of foam, paddles and duck dives well. Construction: South Coast Foam PU foam and polyester resin with Shapers fins. Made to go the distance Fins: Quad or thruster. Shaper comment: My personal step-up board, I’ve had a few solid sessions out the front on the beachies, goes good and it does what you want it to do. Custom orders welcomed.

STORES

THE BOARDROOM Gold Coast HO’OKUPU Byron Bay SANDBAH Newcastle SANDY FEET Port Macquarie ADRIFT The entrance ALPINE BEACH Erina SHOP NEXT DOOR Manly PATAGONIA stores DICK VAN STRAALEN Factory 7/3 Ramly Dr, Burleigh Heads

M: 0409 262 729 174

KOMA SURFBOARDS 4/39 Bailey Crescent Southport, QLD Ph: 0402 863 763 peko_art@hotmail.com www.komasurf.com

THE BLUNT

THE BIG BIRD

Shaper: Craig Rees Dimensions: (Above) 6” x 19 ½” x 2 3/16” Ability level: Intermediate and up Suits: Different sizes Description: The Blunt was born when a long term customer came to me asking for me to make him a board similar to what Dane Reynolds had been riding. When it was finished it looked and felt insane. I realised that it was similar in the back to our Punt model... the Nose was wider and the rocker slightly different, but basically it was a tweaked Punt, hence: The Blunt. Construction: PU foam with polyester resin, vacuum bagged with carbon fibre rails. Fins: Thruster or quad Shaper comment: This board should be about 2-3 inches shorter than your standard shortboard, the same thickness and an inch wider.

Shaper: Craig Rees Sizes range: 6’4” to 7’6” Test/Hire Available: 6’4”, 6’7”, 7’0”, 7’6” Ability level: Beginner to experienced Prices: from $650 Description: As the name suggests this model is just a blown up version of the Blackbird. A fantastic board for a bigger guy that wants to ride a smaller board particularly in small to medium sized waves. Construction: PU foam with polyester resin. Fins: Quad or twin FCS. Shaper comment: Larger sizes from 6’7’’ to 7’6’’ make fantastic boards for beginners - the volume rivals a mini mal but performance is better. Will tackle a more hollow wave without being too slow and cumbersome. Also allows a beginner to develop turns without having to immediately buy a shorter board.

PRIMITIVE SURF 601 Nudgee Rd, Nundah, Qld 4012 Ph: 07 3266 1001 E: info@primitivesurf.com www.primitivesurf.com

nov/dec 2011

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CLASSIC WATERMAN IS THE ALTER EGO OF

THE HYBRID

TWIN KEEL

Shaper: John Mills Dimensions: 5’6’’x 19 ½” x 2 3/8” Ideal: Up to 4ft. Suits: Beginner to intermediate. Description: Developed as a collaboration with Beachbeat’s head shaper John Mills and Maroochy Surf School to fill the gap after the kids have progressed off the foamie. Why hunt around for a secondhand fish when you can get a purpose built hybrid for not much more? Construction: 2 x 6oz deck, 6oz bottom, Volane’s tints and pigments available. With over 35 years of experience, the glassjobs are second to none. Fins: FCS Tri Shaper comment: I developed this board more out of necessity, seeing small kids struggle to turn wide tail fish. The low entry rocker with volume under the chest, combined with a pulled-in tail and finer soft rails is the ultimate stepping stone to their first performance shortboard and the price will surprise you.

Shaper: Tony Dempsey Dimensions: 5’8 ½” x 21 x 2 ½” Ideal conditions: Up to 3ft beachies or points Ability level: From beginner to advanced Suits: Everyone Description: High-performance small wave board with low rocker and performance bottom. The bottom has increased V in the tail, lifting the board quickly rail to rail. Construction: PU foam and polyester resin, totally handshaped. Fins: FCS fibreglass keels Shaper comment: These boards are totally handmade to your requirements - as are all Underground boards using the best possible materials. Original, retro styling with high performance and loads of fun.

BEACHBEAT SURFBOARDS Ph: 07 5443 2777

UNDERGROUND SURF 3/31 McLean St, Coolangatta, QLD 4225 Ph: 07 5599 1040

www.beachbeat.com.au

undergroundsurf.com.au

E: noel@beachbeat.com.au

kirra@undergroundsurf.com.au

GOBERLYGOOK

PETRA

Shaper: Glenn ‘Cat’ Collins

Dimensions: 6’14”x 17” 3/20th x 85 + 39 - 75.8 = sq2 + 4/4th & 10/16ths = FA

Description:

Description: This is a timber GOBBERLYGOOK cross channel t’spoon alaia.

DICK VAN STRAALEN A WATERMAN

encompasses a long tradition of those who are passionate about the ocean and all it has to offer. We wanted to introduce this logo to you and ask you to expand your thinking when you are next about to add to your surfing equipment. Once again, Master Shaper DICK VAN STRAALEN, whose experience has traversed every trend since the 1950s, will amaze you with his ability to shape a vast range of surfcraft. Visit our Facebook site Classic Waterman.

Petra ordered a board from me & sprayed the seahorse on it and sooo the board became the ‘Petra’ model

Now can we please move forward?

Happy Surfing. STORES

Surfboards and surfing props for movies and ads

SURF1770NOOSA.COM

surf1770@bigpond.com surf1770noosa.com

M: 0409 262 729 nov/dec 2011

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8/11/11 1:45 PM

No big brands. No marketing hype. Just cool merchandise from the salt of the Australian surf community

eaps of s... h e t i s t One webd surf shops shir an shapers 176

nov/dec 2011

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10’6” ACE TEC SUP

11’4” ACS SUP

THE PACER

THE BULL

THE BUG

Shaper: P eter Hosking Length: 10’6” / 320 cm Width: 31.5” / 80cm Weight: 26 lbs / 12 Kg Volume: 185 L Ideal: Designed as an all-round performer for riders up to 80kg and as a performance surf SUP for riders up to 100kg. Ability level: Beginner to advanced Description: ACE TEC technology is the result of years of research on the ideal composite lay-up for SUP. A unique combination of durability, light weight and performance shapes. Features premium diamond groove EVA deck pad, ergo-grip carry handle and integrated rail guard. Construction: ACE TEC = Advance Composite Epoxy TEChnology Fins: FCS Dolphin 10” + M5 Shaper comment: Features even volume distribution, confidenceinspiring width and refined rocker profile for surf performance as well as flatwater glide. A highly versatile SUP for a wide range of conditions.

Shaper: P eter Hosking Length: 11’4” / 345cm Width: 32” / 81cm Weight: 41 lbs / 18.5 Kg Volume: 205 L Ideal: For beginner to intermediate riders up to 100kg. Suits: Families, or surf and SUP schools looking for strong, easy to use equipment for students to make rapid progress on. Description: Ultradurable polyethylene outer shell and a full polyurethane foam core.Thermoformed in steel molds, ensuring consistent and accurate reproduction. Features a premium diamond groove EVA deck pad and ergogrip carry handle. Construction: ACS = Aerated Cellular Structure Fins: FCS dolphin 10” Shaper comment: An extremely durable board for less money. Its substantial volume is evenly spread from nose to tail, giving it versatility. It has great directional stability while retaining excellent manoeuverability in small waves.

Shaper: Matt Keane Specs: 9’6’’ x 23’’x 2 ¾” Ideal: Best around waist high and below. Your goto small wave noserider. Suits: Intermediate and above surfers. Description: We’ve learned that a good noserider doesn’t have to be heavy or thick to work. Matt’s teardrop concave makes this board a smooth ride and with the ideal amount of tail rocker your noseriding can only improve. Construction: 2 x 6oz deck, 6oz bottom, Volane’s tints and pigments available. With over 35 years of experience, the glassjobs are second to none. Fins: Glass-in or fin box. Trying the new Captain Fin Co. range this summer. Shaper comment: To look forward you have to look back and start there. I’ve had the pleasure of shaping pacers for Beachbeat for several years and they keep getting better.

Shaper: R on Wade Specs: 9’3” x 22 ½” x 2 7/8” Ideal conditions: Classic noserider which performs well between 1-6ft. Description: Lower rocker to enable less push, a trim section to enable maximum speed through to a slight tail lift incorporating a subtle “V” for maneuverability. Construction: The board illustrated is made of PU foam, includes a single plywood stringer, 2 layers of 6oz fibreglass on the deck and 1 on the bottom. Hand shaped 9” fibreglass fin + fin box with side fins, polished finish with colour. Fins: Fibreglass Centre fin with side fins included. Shaper comment: If you’re thinking of updating to a new longboard it would be my pleasure to be able to answer your questions and guide you to make the correct decision.

Shaper: R on Wade Specs: varied lengths between 7’2” to 8’6” Ideal: 2-8 ft. Suits: Those wanting a board that is very manoeuvrable, easy to paddle and ideal in summer conditions when you don’t want the extra length of a longboard. Description: Available with a semi rounded pintail. The shape incorporates a slight concave running through to a subtle vee, with slight tail lift to loosen the tail up. Construction: PU foam, single plywood stringer, 6oz and 4oz fibreglass on the deck and 6oz bottom. Polished finish with colour. Fins: Tri-fin setup, fin box with side fins Shaper comment: Suited to beginners and surfers who don’t get the opportunity to surf everyday but still want to have fun and be able to throw it around.

RON WADE SURF DESIGNS AUSTRALIA Mona Vale showroom, open 9-4pm Sat or call me. Ph: 02 9979 7071 Mob: 0410 443 776

GLIDE INDUSTRIES

P.O. Box 31, Balgowlah NSW 2093 Ph. 02 9949 1322 www.bicsup.com

BEACHBEAT SURFBOARDS Ph: 07 5443 2777

E: noel@beachbeat.com.au

www.beachbeat.com.au

sales@ronwadesurfboards.com.au

ronwadesurfboards.com.au

sales@ronwadesurfboards.com.au

ronwadesurfboards.com.au nov/dec 2011

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS (mention smorgasboarder to get a free leggie worth $45 with a new Ron Wade board order)

177

8/11/11 1:48 PM

Perfect for learners or just safe fun!

FISH SOFTBOARD

CRUISER SOFTBOARD

Specs: 5’10” x 20 /8” x 2 ¼”

Specs: 8’ x 22” x 2 ¾”

Ideal: Fun beach break or point break set ups. Waves up to shoulder height.

Ideal: Beach breaks for learners and point breaks for more advanced riders.

Suits: The learner all the way to the advanced surfer looking to have some fun. Plus, you can ride your softboard through the flags.

Suits: Learners, people who are getting back into surfing, or advanced riders looking to have fun.

Description: It’s a softboard designed for fun. The board is designed with a performance template that is great for zipping through the crowded summer line ups. Construction: EPS core, double stringers, HDPE slick, NXL deck, pin line rail system, Fish Tail Fins: Thruster with plastic screw in fins. El Nino comment: Perfect for summer, zipping through the crowded line ups, especially the Sydney flagged beaches. Take the soft option!

178

Description: A softboard that is easy to ride for the learner, but also a great fun board for an established rider. Construction: EPS core, triple stringers, HDPE slick, NXL deck, pin line rail system. Fins: Thruster with plastic screw in fins. El Nino comment: Perfect for almost anybody. This is an easy to paddle softboard that offers great fun to the beginner all the way up to an advanced rider looking to have some longboard fun.

MANTA SURF CO. PTY LTD

6 Woodfield Blvd, Caringbah NSW 2229

Ph: 02 8536 4700 E: admin@manta.com.au

www.elninosurf.com.au

PURPLE WAVE

PRO SPORTZ MALIBU

NOSE RIDER

Designer: Albie Curtis Dimensions: 7’4” x 20 ½”x 2 3/8” Ideal: When conditions start to crank. Ability: Intermediate surfers after a larger high performance shortboard. Description: The Purple Wave is an Albie Curtis Signature Model medium to big wave board that is super light and super responsive for those days when you need speed. Construction: Vacuum bagged with a EPS core, bamboo stringer, 4oz deck and bottom. Certain aspects of this board are unique to Illusions Noosa. Fins: Three fin set-up with large central fin designed to hold in bigger waves. Shaper comment: The Purple Wave is a pro design board. Really fast and easy to turn. It is my personal favourite shortboard to ride.

Designer: Albie Curtis Dimensions: 9’3”x 21”x 2 5/8” Ideal: Whatever conditions you choose to ride Ability: Experienced surfer looking for a high performance longboard Description: The Pro Sportz is a fantastic longboard built for speed with superior noseriding ability. Construction: Vacuum bagged with a EPS core, bamboo stringer, 4oz deck and bottom. Certain aspects of this board are unique to Illusions Noosa. Fins: Three fin set-up with large central fin Shaper comment: This is a high-performance longboard that acts like shortboard.

Designer: Albie Curtis Dimensions: 9’1”x 22”x 3 1/8” Ideal conditions: A good board for small to medium sized waves Ability level: Perfect board for the beginner or occasional surfer right through to advanced Description: 9 foot malibu surfboard is your tradional longboard, easy to noseride and paddle onto waves. It turns easily and noserides very well, allowing the rider to walk up and down the board with stability. Construction: EPS foam in 24kg/m3 density. Single stringer; Epoxy resin and E fiberglass - 2 x 6oz top and 2 x 6oz on the bottom. Fin set-up: Fin box and 9” fiberglass fin Shaper comment: Designed in Australia, a great all purpose longboard for well under $1000.

ILLUSIONS NOOSA 2/2 Venture Dve, Noosaville, QLD 28 Sunshine Beach Rd, Noosa Junction, QLD Mobile: 0488 686 206 Albie: 0410 358 391 illusionsnoosa.com.au

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Illusions Noosa are proud to announce the

Albie Curtis Signature Series pro-model shortboards, mini mals, longboards and SUPs. One of Dee Whyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original big wave legends, with over 40 years surfing experience, Albie Curtis has developed a supreme range of stunning surf craft exclusively for Illusions Noosa. Each board has been expertly designed by Albie and handshaped for waves 2ft through to doubleoverhead. Featherweight and super responsive, we have a quality board to suit your style and local conditions at an affordable price. Expertly tested by team riders Peppie Simpson and Albie Curtis. Peppie Simpson winner of the senior womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s division at the Noosa Festival of Surfing 2011. Albie Curtis Regular finalist in the Noosa Festival of Surfing, Wrecks and Relics, Crescent Head Classic and intrepid Indo explorer.

Illusions Noosa - Surfboards,SUP & Kayaks FACTORY OUTLET Unit 2/2 Venture Drive, Noosaville QLD 4566 RETAIL STORE 28 Sunshine Beach Rd, Noosa Junction, QLD 4566 Phone 0488 686 206 Email info@illusionsnoosa.com.au

www.illusionsnoosa.com.au nov/dec 2011

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THIS PAGE:Brad Bowman , 1978 ACROSS: Stacey Peralta, 1978 PHOTOS: Jim Goodrich

OLD-SCHOOL IS STILL COOL ic The Warptail 2 - a re-issue of the class lete comp a as able avail is n G&S desig or deck. With one of these vintage-style babies, you can re-live the days of your youth or discover some skating history you never got to experience in person. COMPLETE (RRP $239.95 - TRINITY DISTRIBUTION) Deck Size: 7x28.5 Tail: 4.75” Nose: 3” Wheelbase: 15.5” Trucks: Dynami Raw/Black 4.25” Risers: 1/2 Rubber Riser Pads Wheels: G&S 78a x 65mm Bearings: Abec 7 Decks made in the USA, laminated by Watson Laminates

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STACEY PERALTA DID-YOU-KNOWS • • • • •

Born October 15, 1957 in Venice, California At 15, became a Z-Boy - a sponsored Zephyr team rider His second sponsor was G&S Formed the Powell-Peralta skateboard company with George Powell Formed the Bones Brigade, a team of some of the top skaters of the time and which was the focus of his influential for skating movies such as the 1987 Search Animal Chin tisement

Above: Stacey in a 1977 Warptail 2 adver

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Glory days revisited WORDS: MATTHEW CHEETHAM

When Larry Gordon and Floyd Smith started hand-crafting surfboards in their garage in 1959 they had no idea of knowing how influential their brand would become in surfing circles, let alone how much they would influence the fledgling skateboarding scene. It wasn’t long before Gordon & Smith became well known throughout the world for the performance and quality of their boards with surfers like Skip Frye and Mike Hynson helping to expand their profile on the surf scene. But it wasn’t just about the water, with Gordon & Smith being one of a few brands on board with the growing popularity to surf the streets. In the early 60’s they were producing boards for both sports.

1964 was the year that Gordon & Smith changed the course of skateboarding’s future, introducing the first laminated deck made from maple wood and fiberglass reinforced epoxy, which they called FibreFlex. With Skip Frye as an early poster boy for these composite boards, they were soon to become one of the first companies to sponsor professional team riders.

name originated from way kids would make the kick in the tail from a flat piece of wood. Once they had sourced some wood and shaped it, they would throw some skates on it and put the tail in a shallow bucket of water with a brick leaning up against it. The wood would warp the tail up on an angle forming a kick, and then they’d hang it out to dry.

In the 70’s it all truly exploded. Now known as just G&S, the company was at one point selling 500 FibreFlex skateboards per day, and their team riders - like the legendary Stacey Peralta - became overnight superstars. G&S then released one of their most famous board designs - the Warptail. The

Released in 1977, Stacy Peralta’s signature board, was the Warptail 2 by G&S, which went on to be one of the top selling boards of its time.

Not surprisingly, it’s still popular today in for the form of the G&S Warptail 2 re-issues. For vintage skate buffs, the history of the G&S Skateboard Team is available as a new book. The good folks at Trinity Distribution are getting these books around the country - and also have a range of very cool G&S boards available, so satisfy your vintage cravings... www.trinitydistribution.com.au

“THE WARPTAIL 2” nov/dec 2011

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GO FAST, GE // BAD KNEES AND GOOD TIMES Sunshine Coast skater and photographer, Joel Larwood invites us along on a typical day out for a freeride with the local downhill boys and girls WORDS & PHOTOS: JOEL LARWOOD

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WHEELS GEAR: & DECKS SKATE

GET SIDEWAYS nov/dec 2011

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GEAR: SKATE

SKCED & SLEEHW

// THE WAY IT IS Things have come a long way since the old-school media portrayals of skateboarders as suicidal gangs of teenagers whose main goal in life is to ruin yours. These days more people seem to know we’re not here to vandalise and ruin society whilst incoherently screaming ‘thug life’, or ‘f*ck the po-lice’. In fact we’re people of all ages, from the youngest of kids, to dads and even granddads, who just enjoy not fully growing up. For any skater who knows downhill, it’s about the feeling of gliding down a 20% hill… Almost always fantastic, occasionally ending up in injury, but regardless, a feeling that can’t be denied.

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WHISKEY 8.00

OSO

POCKET ROCKET BAMBOO

POCKET ROCKET GT

GB SIZZLER

Comes in assorted colors

ARTIST: SYLVIA JI

ARTIST: ZACH JOHNSEN

ARTIST: JOEL WOODMAN

MISSION GT

RALLY

FISH

FISH BAMBOO

MINDSTATE

FLEETWOOD

BLUNT

ARTIST: JOEL WOODMAN

ARTIST: TADASHI URA

ARTIST: JESSE RENO

ARTIST: MAX GRUNDY

ARTIST: JOEL WOODMAN

BUG BAMBOO

HYBRID BAMBOO

HYBRID GT

PIN BAMBOO

PIN GT

ARTIST: SYLVIA JI

R: NICK VISCONTI P: TIM BRADLEY

ARTIST: HAUNTED EUTH

ARTIST: CODY GEWERTZ

ARTIST: NANAMI COWDROY

ARTIST: DAVE KINSEY

11|12 COLLECTION AVAILABLE NATIONALLY SEPTEMBER 1ST

VUGENHAUSEN ARTIST: HAUNTED EUTH

AXIS

AXIS GT

ASSAULT

ARTIST: DAVE KINSEY

ARTIST: TJ WINECOFF

Arbor Skateboards has evolved. Today we offer a wider range of product and perspective than at any time in our past. More than ever, the line reflects the diversity of our collective: the in-house die-hards, athletes, artists, designers, friends, and expanding family of customers that make up who we are. The thing tying all these voices together is an understanding of what’s at stake - we need clean air to skate, clean water to surf, and snow to ride. For those of us who participate in boardsports, protecting the planet is about the environments we utilize everyday. To that end, we develop sustainable riding solutions that blend responsible materials, next-level technology, and real world art into the best designs available.

Contact Your Local Dealer: INFO@FUTURESPORT.COM.AU PH: (02) 4365 1838

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WHAT BOARD?

As with everything, the right tools make all the difference. While you can jump onto anything with wheels, find a hill and start rolling, it helps to have the right gear. Austin Moncrieff of Early Skateboards says that while topmounts* are really popular at the moment, he still recommends a dropthrough** especially for people new to downhill. MAIN: Going slideways BELOW: Relaxing with chips and photos

“It’s closer to the ground when you footbrake and has more stability at high speed,” he says. “It doesn’t highside when you slide or take corners, just like a lower car.“

“WE ALL WANT TO SKATE, SO WE FIND OTHER PEOPLE WHO WANT TO SKATE.” We all want to skate, so we find other people who want to skate. We argue - with plenty of laughs thrown in - over where to skate. Someone wins and we go, sometimes ending up 30 kilometres from where we first started. While hours can be spent deciding which hills to hit, in the end, even the bad decisions are fun. It doesn’t matter if it’s too cold too move a single joint in your body or that hot that even thought of standing on a board brings you out in a sweat, there’s still a hill that needs to be hit. Night or day, there’s no better way for us to spend it than, well… laying some ‘thane. Once enough people get to the meeting point, the good times kick in and good feelings flow. We might

not even start skating for an hour. Many trips are made to the local shops. Many litres of sugary drinks are bought. Little shred sessions go down if there’s a skatepark nearby, where absolute mockeries are made of our skating abilities. It doesn’t matter a bit, because skateparks are only appetisers for the hills that we’re about to skate. Eventually we’ll make our way to the hill and spend yet more time debating whether the walk up is worth the ride down, all while pleasantly waving to old folks and mothers with babies as a show of goodwill. We’ll probably see them again on the way down. Finally everyone comes to their senses. We pad up, glove up, helmet up. Ready, we find ourselves

standing for a while, waiting for cars that aren’t there. After one last check for motorists we careen down the hill, toesiding, heelsiding, standying, bailing and ass-grazing. We laugh at failed attempts and yell unintelligibly when someone does something worthy of praise. This happens again and again, yet it never gets old. There’s talk of doing a mass train with everyone down the hill, but this never happens. We return to the shops out of sheer exhaustion or because someone called the police.

time, food as well. We skate up and down the footpath whilst waiting. Our number is called and we dig into our large chips. Some people leave, others stay, waiting for the next bus. Everyone is keen to see the photos and go over the day’s happenings, already planning for next time. We’re ready for the same good times to keep rolling.

The Arbor Axis GT (above) and the Early Arift (bottom) are examples of options for dropthrough boards.

* T O P M O U N T A very flat deck mounted above the trucks with a high centre of gravity, making it very responsive. **DROPTHROUGH The baseplate of the truck is mounted on the top of the board, lowering the centre of gravity, makign it extremely stable at high speeds.

We’re back where we started. What else is there to do but another quick shred session? We head over to the shops for another sugar hit and this

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“THE ANELA” BY KAHUNA

“PIN BAMBOO” BY ARBOR

RRP: $299 Suits: Surfers, barefoot riders Specs: 38” x 9.5” Deck: 7-Ply Wisconsin Maple with Tahitian sand grip. Trucks: Veloz 180 Bearings: Abec-7 Wheels: Kahuna 70mm longboard wheels Description: First KC longboard with rocker (reverse camber) surf shape. Mimics the surf feel. “Anela” (Guardian Angel) original artwork by David Ray Gould. Comment: Riding this board gives a smooth playful ride unique to surfboards until now. Anela is easily the most innovative longboard by Kahuna Creations. You’ll fall in love with this chill of a ride board.

Suits: Longboard cruisers Dimensions: 46” x 9.5” Deck: 7-Ply Maple/ Bamboo top sheet Wheels: 72mm (78a) Arbor Bio-Urethane Street Series Trucks: 10’’ Gullwing Charger Bearings: Abec-5 Description: The classic tapered carver - the Bamboo Pin features a huge wheelbase for maximum stability at speed, and a wide, concave mid-section for deep, open-stance, lockn-hold skating. Comment: BAMBOO DECK PLY: Bamboo is the fastest growing plant know to man. It is widely accepted as today’s most renewable, sustainably grown building material. It is also one of the strongest materials on the planet. Bamboo’s tensile strength and weight-tostrength ratio are superior to steel; yet bamboo is light, flexible, and resistant to compression.

KAHUNA STREET SUP Ph: 0466 264 232 kahuna@streetsup.com.au www.streetsup.com.au Join us on Facebook

ARBOR SKATEBOARDS For local dealer information please contact us by email: info@futuresport.com.au, call 02 4365 1838 or visit arborcollective.com/skate

“39” CRUISER” BY SMOOTHSTAR

Suits: Traditional surfers chasing after long drawn out carving turns. Dimensions: 39” x 10 ¼” Deck: 9 Ply Deck Wheels: 50mm rubber Trucks: 9” Aluminium back with new THRUSTER III turning mechanism in front - a fully polished metal alloy with a tighter spring, giving you improved control allows for better carving.

Bearings: Abec-5 Description: A nice wide, slightly concave deck tapering down to a medium rear kicker. The wide rubber wheels provide extra stability and superior grip. Comment: The best surfing Longboard Malibu. Cruising on your longboard up and down the beachfront and making long drawn out carving turns - this is where the new 39”Longboard Cruiser excels.

SMOOTHSTAR SKATEBOARDS Ph: 0407 405 390

www.smoothstar.com.au

“STINGER”

BY FiiK ELECTRIC Suits: Street speeders Dimensions: Big Deck: Concave for better stance traction and control. The longer, narrower board shape with more length in the nose offers versatile weight distribution. Tapers to a sweet styled tail. Wheels: Street alloy aluminium rims Power: 600W Rechargeable, memoryfree, deep-cycle, highoutput battery-pack. Description: Stability and ride flexibility combine for smooth and versatile styling. Propelled by a high-torque power plant, STINGER’s heritage inspired longboard profile, puts you on a master of high-paced street riding. Comment: Ride back to the future on a STINGER. There’s nothing like it. Step up onto a STINGER... the longboard lives!

FIIK SKATEBOARDS 2/3366 Pacific Highway, Springwood QLD Ph: 07 3208 3208

E: sales@fiikskateboards.com

fiikskateboards.com nov/dec 2011

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. . . s d r a o b e t a Sk OTOGRAPHY ARLIE HARDY PH CH BY OS OT PH M McGEACHIE TEAM RIDER DO

CHECK OUT THE NEW WEBSITE! CUSTOMISE YOUR SMOOTHSTAR ONLINE!

...for s! surfer

u a . m o c . r a hst t o o m s . w online! ww out video

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RD TAIL SKATEBOA 32” FLYING FISH

teboards a k s g n i l l ope or visit in self-pr ll 0407 405 390 e ca t , fo a in e m or i m t r l s. Fo The u for surfer d e n g i s e d Check

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TEST G EVERKNYOCTKHITIN TILL “DON’T IT” YOU’VE TRIED

SPOT ON ZOT WORDS: DAVE SWAN

AND MORE GETTING MORE AY WE LIKE IT. S EP KE ST JU ST EW NEW GEAR TO TE , AND THAT’S TH me OUR QUEST FOR D SOMETIMES JUST WEIRDER ideas and even so old on different takes me INTERESTING AN so , as ide w ne d look at some bran go. This edition we ll worth giving a we e ar at th as not-so-new ide

Increased nose area

Softer rails in the entry and planing area reduces catch and bogging the front

GEOFF MCCOY Astron Zot Single Fin 6’6” x 22” x 3” To qualify, it’s important to note that we don’t heap praise on every board we test. The ones we don’t like, we choose not to write about. It’s a bit of a karma thing. No one benefits from being bagged in a public forum and we’d rather use our space to tell you about amazing gear that really excites us and that we think you should definitely check out too. Who are we to judge anyhow? What works for one may not work for another and we’re not some allknowing experts on surfboard design, we are just guys who like surfing sharing our experiences. Which leads me to Geoff McCoy’s Astron Zot. Geoff has certainly had his detractors through the years, but after riding this board, I can’t figure out why. Really. Why?! I was intrigued to see how she would go because I have heard so much about McCoy boards from enthusiasts. My interest was also piqued because it was a single fin. Paddling out, I certainly appreciated the extra volume in the board, which has become synonymous with Geoff’s designs. After an indulgent weekend at a good mate’s bucks party, I think I had put on about 4-5kgs and wasn’t feeling particularly lithe or fit.

BOARD

The board’s paddle power helped get my fat arse out the back.

I took off on my first wave, she trimmed beautifully and the board just turned on a dime. The way it pivots is remarkable. There is no need to move your feet. I still find myself shuffling my feet on most shortboards but with this one there was absolutely no need. If you did, it was like taking your foot off the gas. You simply planted your stance and turned the board from the one spot. Whilst perfectly formed, the surf wouldn’t have been any more than just above knee height at The Pass in Byron, but I was getting 400m rides. A couple of times I turned off a wave followed by a logger on the wave behind and you could see them wondering how the hell I had gone so far on a 6’6” board. As the swell picked up ever so slightly you could sense how the Astron Zot particularly liked a nice hollow face. It’s handling came to the fore even more. I am yet to test her on a decent swell but reckon it will be a lively performer in waves with steep faces.

I like big butts and I cannot lie. You other brothers can’t deny...

The Gull Wing Fin I have to mention the fin system first - why the hell someone hasn’t thought of this sooner is beyond me. I am a massive fan! I’ve always wanted to adjust my fins but can never be bothered fiddling around with that little fin box screw. With Geoff’s Gull Wing fin there are no screws, no bolts, no tools. Small spring loaded ball bearings in the fin base lock it into the fin box. You can even change spacers within the base for a tighter fit but once in, it will not budge. I have shown it to every one of my mates who has come around and they can’t believe how good it is. As for the performance of the fin, the theory behind it is to get the ‘drive’ factor further down in the water towards the tip, as opposed to the base. This greater area towards the tip increases drive because it is deeper in the water. Reducing base area allows the fin to turn quicker allowing shorter arc turns. I am a big fan of the Astron Zot’s big round fat arse tail and I think this, combined with the board’s subtle design elements and the Gull Wing fin, make the board as loose as a mother goose whilst giving it heaps of drive.

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TEST G EVERKNYOCTKHITIN TILL “DON’T IT” YOU’VE TRIED

ort, al eff Minim m u maxim t en enjoym

FLY LIKE A FISH WORDS: DAVE SWAN

THE RILEY FLYING FISH 6’2”x 21” x 2 ½” Quad fin, balsa skin, EPS core First things first, it is a very, very sexy beast, but more importantly, it’s really lively and responsive. It certainly dispels any misconceptions about Mark Riley only being a master of the mal. It’s no showy longboard. This is a performance fish. The board paddles well and gets onto waves easily. It feels really sturdy, like it could withstand the mother of all hammerings and come out without a scratch, and it has that unique feeling that only woods board have. I can only describe it as ‘momentum’. It just glides on waves and it’s an unbelievable sensation. It’s not ‘skippy’ and doesn’t feel like it’s going to blow away in a stiff breeze. Unfortunately the east coast (well at least everywhere I seem to go) has been plagued by pretty average surf of late, but I did manage to squeeze a couple of good sessions in on the Flying Fish on my way back to the Sunshine Coast, namely just outside of Coffs Harbour, once at Currumbin and of course the legendary breaks around Caloundra (no laughing). It was truly a nice board to ride and I would have liked to have taken it out in a big swell. I think I’ll need that test-board back now, please... www.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au

Broken arm ? Miles fears no pain...

SOME GOOD GOOFING OFF

Scott goes ng cross-steppi

WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN

Roller & Board

I was really excited to try out the GOOFBOARD balance trainer for longboarders. When it arrived during the final week of production for this mag, I ran it straight down the road to SLS Surfboards for team riders Miles Livingston and Bill Lyons to have a crack at it - crack being the operative word, with Miles having just broken his wrist a few days earlier... The basic idea behind the GoofBoard is that, unlike other balance trainers, the motion is rail-to-rail, not nose-to-tail. The pipe runs parallel to the board, to simulate the longboard surfing experience. After a tentative first few goes, the boys got really comfortable really quickly. The goofboard website reckons it takes about 15-20 minutes to get comfortably balanced - which seems fairly accurate. Once it was clear that it was actually pretty difficult to take a serious fall off the board, the trick attempts started - walking, noseriding and the like, all with varied levels of success but the same amount of laughs. The comment from the SLS boys was that they could see themselves using the GoofBoard as training for their surfing and that it would most definitely help in developing technique. Most importantly though, it was unanimously agreed that the GoofBoard would make a fun addition to any party. While getting on the beers and trying to better your best mate’s tricks is childish, stupid and completely irresponsible, we would be first in line to have a go. To watch US longboard legend ‘Wingnut’ give the GoofBoard a go, and for tips on how to use it, check out the website: www.goofboard.com. Order online for AU $189, or chat to Steve at Crosslink Traction in Byron Bay in person. Highly addictive, highly recommended. For other applications of balance trainers, see the Fitness article on page 203

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The eco fact or: Lose one in th e surf, and it will biodegrade in about eight to ten w eeks!

BEST BUDDIES WORDS: MARK CHAPMAN

Wrangling a two-year-old at the beach is always tricky. You want to introduce them to the ocean as young as possible, but you can’t leave them to fend for themselves. If they get smashed by some nasty whitewater, dumped face first into the sand - or worse - it could take years to restore their confidence. Secondly, they may look little, but their weight seems to increase in direct proportion to the amount of waves they want to jump over. Yes, they get pretty heavy when you’re bending down to hold on. A pretty simple invention from the Gold Coast might take care of both issues at once... Enter the Beach Buddy - essentially something like a double-ended bodyboard leash with one velcro cuff that goes around your wrist and the other around the little one’s arm, giving them a bit more freedom to splash around, while you have them safely connected to you... And can actually stand up straight! What can we really say? It’s simple, it’s easy to use, it’s well made, and for the peace of mind, it’s well worth the $39.99 price tag. Enjoy the play, and don’t stress about them slipping out of your grasp, even in deeper water. Most important of all, my little girl felt quite comfortable. As any parent will know, at that age they’re pretty strong willed. If she didn’t like it, it sure as hell wouldn’t stay on. On the first day, it took her a little while to get used to it, but by the next day, she was bringing it to me, saying “Beach! Beach!” The Beach Buddy gets a definite thumbs up from the little boss.

www.beach-buddy.com.au

Multiple uses... it on Aside from using you ll, we as am the pr r can also keep you ers oth m fro fe sa r bee in the office.

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Gimme PADDLE POWER WORDS: BEN ROBERTS

Ever been frustrated by getting caught inside as a bomb set moves in? Sometimes the only difference between safely making it under the incoming mountains or getting hammered by the onslaught is just a few metres. If only you could pull more water with each paddle stroke…. Although the concept’s not new, the answer seems obvious: webbed gloves. There have been issues that have made webbed gloves more of a hassle than a benefit and the truth is that you don’t see many guys using them these days, but I’m always on the lookout for a useful gadget and the Darkfin gloves by Black Lagoon caught my eye. Darkfin are cleverly made using natural latex rubber resulting in a one-piece glove. The rubber doesn’t absorb water, is incredibly flexible and has been cottonflocked to increase friction and grip. I was sceptical at the relatively low price, but was surprised at the quality of the construction. Available in 12 different sizes, they are moulded to mimic the hand in a normal resting position, so are very comfortable to wear. The webbing is across the back of the fingers, which allows you to open and close your hands with ease. This design is claimed to increase the surface area by 70%. So far, so good. Using the gloves was interesting. At first I just paddled out with closed fingers as normal. Sitting out the back, I opened my hands a bit. You can really feel the increased resistance as you are

able to pull more water than before. Fully opening your hands allows you to really claw at the water and is great for fast acceleration. The sensation of the webbing could best be described as having thick balloons attached to the back of your fingers. Being all black, the gloves matched my steamer and weren’t screaming for attention, but it was obvious I was getting sideways stares from the lineup. I played fair and took my waves as usual, but I found catching waves much easier. Getting caught inside was also different as I was able to really power though the incoming waves. A word of caution - this came at a price. I surf regularly but the next day I felt muscles in my back I never knew existed. The next few times I used the gloves my back wasn’t as sore. I imagine that over time, the training benefit of these gloves will also add to my surfing. If you are looking to increase your wave count, add a training aspect to your sessions or as a cool present for the surfer in your life, at such a low price around $25 online - these gloves deliver on all fronts.

www.darkfingloves.com Tip! Sizing inant m o d r You hand g) (writin lly a is usu rger. la ly t sligh her t o e Use th s o ize hand t es for v o gl your r fit. e t a tigh

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TEST YTHING EVERKNO CK IT TILL “DON’T IT” YOU’VE TRIED

TAXI PLEASE! DAVE SWAN, MARK CHAPMAN & GUS BROWN

We told you we made some pretty cool discoveries this edition... The Thule SUP Taxi is most certainly one of them. Such a clever system, it’s so easy to attach and strap on your SUP or mal, to lock down your board safely. Simply connect your SUP Taxi to existing roof racks.

G U Y HA S T I N G S ✯ SU R FA R I M A P S Based in Byron Bay since 1982

Pictorial map making, painting and illustration.

✯ 0422 175 706

w w w. s u r f a r i m a p s . c o m

1. 2. 3.

Flip out your straps and place your SUP in the cradle. Pull down the strap and clip to fasten it down. The remainder of the strap slides into the rack itself. Lock the strap. Done.

Big board? Smaller board? The telescoping design delivers a custom fit for board widths up to 34” wide and has the capacity to carry up to two SUPs or mals. The heavy-duty, steel reinforced webbing and spring loaded locking cam means you don’t have to stress about your boards being swiped too easily and the weather resistant padding means they don’t get damaged either. Thule’s new Speed-Link mounting system makes for tool-free mounting to Thule load bars and most factory racks, so you don’t have to be a DIY genius to get these installed. Retailing at $329, it’s not a super-cheap system, but it’s definitely worth the money in the long run, when you look at the level of protection it offers, not to mention the saved time every surf or paddle.

Can’t find MAGNETIC DECK GRIPS in your favourite shop? ORDER DIRECT! $29.50 delivered anywhere in Australia. Order 3 and get a free Magnetic Grip T-shirt.

GRAB YOURSELF A SET FOR FREE WWW.MAGNETICGRIP.COM 194

THULE have put up a SUP Taxi set to give away - they know free is cool. To get it for yourself, simply drop us an entertaining email at letters@smorgasboarder.com.au and tell us why you need it!

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History...

A little bit of

MUSIC

PUT ME ON A LEASH

BEN SALTER

COASTAL SOUL

INDEPENDENT/MGM

INDEPENDENT RELEASE

Leash, Leggie, Leg rope, Kookcord...



Quite simply,The Cat is in strong contention for my album of the year 2011. Clever lyrics over clever music makes for a unique and original mix of sound and emotion. This fine independent album deserves in every respect to become a future classic Listen. Become a fan. www.bensalter.com.au

Phil Klaus, Jamie Martin and Chris Barrow are three cheerful musos from Coffs, ‘bringing the beach to the dancefloor’ and laidback tunes to your house. Fans of Jack Johnson, Donovan Frankenreiter and the like will eat this up, with acoustic guitars and bongo slapping backing up melodic, happy summer tunes all the way through this 10-track CD. Support these boys and get a CD for only $15, including postage. Two thumbs up!! www.coastalsoul.com

The leg rope was invented in the 1970s and created great controversy around it being a dangerous accessory. Initially, a small number of people were concerned that if a surfer fell while they were wearing a leg rope the surfboard may spring back and injure them. Thesedays, it does happen on occasion, but most surfers choose to use a leg rope to prevent more accidents than they cause. They’re also handy to prevent you constantly swimming after your board and wasting good paddling energy.

THE CAT

EVERYDAY PEOPLE

WINDMILLS OUT OF WORK INDEPENDENT RELEASE Bells Beach multi-talented muso Red Whyte is the epitome of prolific. With so many album releases, so many songs and so many ideas on each album, the inside of this man’s head must be noisier and busier than Flinders St Station on a Monday morning. As I’ve already broken the w*nkerword rule with ‘epitome’ and ‘prolific,’ I can also say that this album is an eclectic - yes, eclectic - mix of amazing instrumental guitar, tongue-incheek lyrics and a healthy dose of psycho electronic sounds and samples. Love it. No pretense, no wannabe-ness, just out there, original ideas. 13 songs with a cool booklet with moody Victorian coastal images. For more, see the website: www.redwhyte.com.

During the early 70s the general feeling amongst surfers started to shift from ‘if you lost your board you had to swim for it and earn it back’ to ‘let’s tie a sock or handkerchief to a rope and drill a hole through the fin, so we can get more waves in a session’. The man credited with the actual invention of the leg rope was Pat O’Neill, son of Jack O’Neill - the inventor of the wetsuit. Pat came up with the idea in 1971, when he used a surgical cord to attach the surfboard to his leg and a suction cup attaching that to the board. It was extremely hard to see the surgical tubing from the shore and when he fell off the board it would stretch 20+ feet and then spring back. People on the beach thought the boards were remote controlled - they’d never seen anything like it. In fact, the surgical tubing was too stretchy, causing the surfboard to snap back toward the surfer, which is how Jack O’Neill lost his left eye. In ’71 Pat used his new invention in a competition and was disqualified. The other competitors called it a kookcord and the name stuck.

RED WHYTE 

WORDS: ANDRE ‘ONDI’ MARSAUS

ANCHOR RECOVERY

PEE RECORDS

 This is usually all Aussie releases, but considering Adelaide’s Pee Records trusted these vegan Swedes enough to put them on his roster, we figured it was okay, especially considering the nautical theme... So, Recovery is well packaged, well produced, for fans of ridiculously catchy and memorable hardcore. Shouty vocals - check. Huge riffs check. An absolute standout track is number 5, Recovering. If you like it noisy, check it out this great CD. You don’t even need a small spanner to use it. www.peerecords.com.

Commercial models of leg ropes made out of rope, latex tubing and a velcro strap were widely available around ‘74, however shapers and manufacturers were slow to fit leg rope plugs to new boards until it was accepted in professional contests. In the 1980s rope and latex tubing was replaced by moulded urethane. The leg rope had a major impact on surfers’ performance as progressive maneuvers and more aggressive techniques could be performed without having to swim to the beach for the boards. Wave count per hour increased, boards weren’t being destroyed on the rocks and it helped prevent the ‘TOAD Syndrome’ (Take Off And Die). Today all the leashes are made from urethane, which gives them just enough stretch so they don’t snap back when the water releases… otherwise half of us might look a little Jack O’Neill. With thanks to 360 and Surf Research

New surf shop, old-school feel RETRO LONGBOARDS & SHORTBOARDS NEW & CUSTOM BOARDS • BOARD HIRE • REPAIRS SKATEBOARDS • CLOTHING • AND MUCH MORE... 3/31 McLean St, Coolangatta, QLD Ph: 07 5599 1040

WWW.UNDERGROUNDSURF.COM.AU nov/dec 2011

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Retro leg rope supplied by Surf World Torquay

u by Brought to yo Surf nd ou gr er nd U

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HOT IF YOU’RE TIRED OF TH BRANDS AND DON E SAME OLD FRO M THE BIG ’T WANT WALKING TO J BILLBOAR D, HERE A UST LOOK LIKE A ALTERNA TIVES FOR RE SOME SUPER CO THE SUM OL MER SEA SON AHE AD.

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SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL SHAPER

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The latest Afends s um mens and womens ra mer nge features s om finest artis e of the world’s ts. The me n’s is full of edgy tshirt prints , singlets, dress shir ts, shorts, accessori and, of co es urse, a so lid range denim. Th of e womens consists of cut and se rayon dre w cotton and sses and skirts, girly jewellery and denim shorts. www.afe nds.com

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Guardsg,s le d d a P Nose &pe & Leash Plu Rail Ta

BEAT THAT BOTTOM TURN WORDS: ALISTAIR LAWSON, NEXT LEVEL SURF COACHING & GREAT OCEAN ROAD SURF TOURS

k Fins

Pro Tec

The most neglected manoeuvre in surfing is the bottom turn - one of the nuts and bolts of all good surfing. To achieve a good top turn, snap or cutback, you must first learn to produce speed and power through the bottom turn. Only then can you perform other turns more effectively. To improve your bottom turn, first you must learn to break it down and simplify it. Don’t make your thought process too complex during your surfing. This can have a negative effect, as it takes away a lot of the spontaneity.

s epair Kt

afe R Travel S

The most effective way to remember your technique is through ‘cue words’. Words that you can remember easily during your surf that will help you focus on your positioning and technique. For the bottom turn we look at the following cue words as you move through the turn: Compress, Lean & Reach, Hold and Target

COMPRESS

Compression needs to happen to help create power through the turn.

LEAN & REACH

This will help put the board on its rail and create the driving force.

HOLD

This utilises the wave’s power and helps create force to drive your board towards the lip with speed.

TARGET

Focus on where you are going with the turn. The most common errors we see are little or no compression, not leaning off the board to turn and not going into the holding phase of the turn. By working on your bottom turn you will see the success in this move start to have a positive affect on the rest of your surfing, helping you to improve your manoeuvres at the top of the wave.

Alistair Lawson is a qualified Level 2 Surf Coach and he’s been surfing for nearly 20 years himself. Having studied Sports Science and Sports Coaching, Alistair worked as a qualified personal trainer for 16 years. He now owns Great Ocean Road Surf Tours, which has been running for 6 years, providing ‘the simplest, most enjoyable way to experience surfing.’

SURFTECH AUSTRALIA www.surftechaustralia.com.au 202

For information on surf coaching, visit: www.gorsurftours.com.au

nov/dec 2011

02 4226 1322

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CLOSEOUT: FITNESS

LIFE’S ALL ABOUT BALANCE HOW TO USE BALANCE TRAINING TO IMPROVE YOUR SURFING PERFORMANCE Balance is one of the most important fitness components to surfing well. By enhancing your balance you’ll be able to pull off more manoeuvres, wipe out less often and even reduce your risk of injury. All of this means an increase in your surfing performance and the ability to do more with your waves. In this article I am going to show you some great exercises you can do to improve your overall stability and balance.

TYPES OF BALANCE There are two main types which are significant to enhancing your surfing ability. STATIC BALANCE: Maintaining stability by keeping your centre of mass within your base of support - like maintaining balance whilst surfing down the line.

WORDS: CLAYTON BEATTY

Balance training involves stability at the ankle, knee, hip and core. The following drills will help improve your body’s ability to stabilise under a changing environment. Feel your balance and surfing improve.

SINGLE LEG SQUAT TO TOE RAISE •

Standing on one leg, descend into a partial squat and then press up all the way onto your toes

•

Perform 10 repetitions on each leg

•

Increase the challenge by closing your eyes

BALANCE BOARD QUICK DROPS •

Stand with your feet shoulder width apart

DYNAMIC BALANCE: Using your centre of mass outside your support base in order to perform a movement - like performing a cutback.

•

Drop as fast as you can into a squat and try and maintain your balance at the bottom for a few seconds before standing back up

As both forms of balance are important for surfing, where possible, you should include exercises that train both types of balance in your workouts.

•

Do 10 repetitions

BALANCE BOARDS

BALANCE BOARD CORE ROTATIONS

These are an excellent (and fun) way to improve your balance for surfing. A number of different types of balance boards are available on the market (Check out the GoofBoard review on page 192) so if you are looking at purchasing one you should consider what kind of movements it can do.

•

Start in a partial squat on a balance board holding a medicine ball, weight plate or dumbbell

•

Rotate the weighted object in big circles each direction whilst trying to maintain your balance

•

Do 5 big circles in each direction

For the sake of these exercises, the balance board should be able to tilt front to back, side to side and be able to rotate in some capacity. Some can be more difficult to perform some exercises on as they target specific surfing styles. There are also balance trainers like the BOSU, shaped like half a Swiss ball - great for performing more dynamic balance exercises involving jumping and landing. Consider all of these factors, your needs and your style of surfing before choosing a balance board.

TRAINING

TIP

BOSU LATERAL JUMPS •

Start standing side on to the BOSU - make sure it’s on a non-slip surface. Jump laterally and land with your knees bent on top of the BOSU

•

Make sure you land with athletic posture - knees bent, core braced, chest up, shoulders back

•

Do 5-10 repetitions

FOR ALL OF THESE BALANCE EXERCISES MAKE SURE YOU MAINTAIN AN ATHLETIC POSTURE - WITH YOUR CORE BRACED, KNEES BENT, CHEST OUT AND SHOULDERS BACK.

Clayton Beatty is a qualified Exercise Scientist with a BSc Human Movement Degree from the University of WA and is a member of Exercise and Sports Science Australia (ESSA). He runs Total Surfing Fitness, created to help surfers improve their skills and reduce the risk of injury.

We’re all keen to improve our surfing, so check out his website for surf-specific functional training exercises. Go to TotalSurfingFitness.com, and there’s even a free sample workout to get you started. nov/dec 2011

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SURF DIRECTORY QLD CENTRAL COAST REEF 2 BEACH SURF SHOP 07 4974 9072

Shop 1, 10 Round Hill Road Agnes Water/1770 www.reef2beachsurf.com

SUNSHINE COAST NOOSA SURF WORKS 07 5474 4567

1/11 Bartlett St, Noosaville www. shotgunsurf.com www.lagunabaysurf.com WATERLINE 07 5474 1010 - 2/15 Venture Dr, Noosaville, www.zeewetsuits.com ILLUSIONS NOOSA 0488 686 206 2/2 Venture Dve, Noosaville & Shop 28 Sunshine Beach Rd, Noosa Junction www.illusionsnoosa.com.au CLASSIC MALIBU AUSTRALIA 07 5474 3122 Cnr Gibson and Eumundi Rds, Noosaville, www.classicmalibu.com ADVENTURE SPORTS NOOSA 07 5455 6677 Shop 6A, 203 Gympie Terrace, Noosaville www.kitesurfaustralia.com.au LOCAL KNOWLEDGE 07 5474 1222 3 Gibson Rd, Noosaville GOLDEN BREED 07 5455 3722 - 15 Noosa Dr, Noosa Heads, www.goldenbreed.com.au NOOSA LONGBOARDS 07 5447 2828 2/55 Hastings St, Noosa Heads www.noosalongboards.com SURF SHOP 07 5471 3489 - 224 David Low Way, Peregian Beach, www.surf-shop.org COOLUM SURF 07 5351 1742 - Birtwill St Coolum Beach www.alexsurfshop.com.au BLUE LINES 07 5351 1986 - 1776 The Esplanade, Coolum Beach WALLY’S WATER GALLERY 07 5448 8560 6 Lorraine Beach, Marcoola Beach BOARDSTORE SURF 07 5448 7025 15 Mudjimba Esp, Mudjimba WEIR’S INSIDE EDGE 07 5443 4143 14 Memorial Ave, Maroochydore DA BOMB 07 5451 0620 - 3/25 Plaza Pde, Maroochydore & 07 5437 9201 - 7/12 Thunderbird Dr, Bokarina www.dabombsurf.com.au OCEAN ADDICTS 07 5309 6624 103-105 Aerodrome Rd, Maroochydore www.oceanaddicts.com.au ALTERNATIVE SURF 07 5475 4811 11/140 Alexandra Pde, Alexandra Headland BEACH BEAT 07 5443 2777 - 164 Alexandra Pde, Alexandra Headlands; 07 5491 8215 4-6 Beerburrum St, Dicky Beach 07 5491 4711 - 119 Bulcock St, Caloundra www.beachbeat.com.au ALEX SURF 07 5452 6276 188 Alexandra Pde, Alexandra Headland www.alexsurf.com.au WORLD SURFARIS 1800 611 163 2/174 Brisbane Rd, Mooloolaba www.worldsurfaris.com THE FACTORY 07 5492 5838 - 15 Allen St, Caloundra thefactorysurf.com.au SLS SURFBOARDS 0424 314 183 2/57 George St, Moffat Beach www.slssurfboards.com.au SURFWARE AUSTRALIA 07 5491 3620 2 Bulcock St, Caloundra

BRISBANE PRIMITIVE SURF 07 3266 1001 - 601

Nudgee Rd, Nundah primitivesurf.com GOODTIME SURF & SAIL 07 3391 8588 29 Ipswich Rd, Wooloongabba www.goodtime.com.au FIIK Unit 2/3366 Pacific Hwy, Springwood www.fiikskateboards.com COD 07 3207 0116 - 51 Ziegenfusz Rd, Thornlands www.codsurfing.com.au

NTH STRADBROKE ISLAND MINTY SURFBOARDS 07 3409 8334 - Point Lookout www.bobmintysurfboards.com

GOLD COAST KOMA SURFBOARDS 0402 863 763

2576 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach www.stuartsurf.com.au GANGSTA SURF 07 5526 6969 - Shop 1/ 2558 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach www.gangstasurf.com BOARD CULTURE 07 5572 9866 2438 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach www.boardculture.com.au LOCAL KNOWLEDGE 07 5526 6377 2251 Gold Coast Hwy, Nobby Beach THE BOARDROOM 07 5527 7877 2084 Gold Coast Hwy, Miami HARVEY SURF GALLERY 0414 557 624 3/10 Pacific Ave, Miami www.harveysurf.com MT WOODGEE 07 5535 0288 1730 Gold Coast Hwy, Burleigh Heads 07 5598 2188 - 2 Stewart Rd, Currumbin 07 5536 5937 - 122 Griffith St, Coolangatta www.mtwoodgee.com.au PATAGONIA BURLEIGH James Street, Burleigh Heads www.patagonia.com.au SEAN SCOTT PHOTOGRAPHY 07 5520 2774 Old Burleigh Theatre Arcade, Shop 10, Goodwin Tce, Burleigh Heads 07 5599 1150 - Shop 3, 120 Marine Pde, Coolangatta seanscottphotography.com.au

DICK VAN STRAALEN/ CLASSIC WATERMAN

0409 262 729, 7/3 Ramly Dr, Burleigh Hds dickvanstraalen.com, classicwaterman.com DALE CHAPMAN SURF DESIGNS 07 5593 8411 Unit 3/48 Junction Road, Burleigh Heads www.chapmansurfboards.com SOUTHCOAST FOAM 07 5522 1600 - 15 Greg Chappell Dr, Burleigh Gdns Estate, Andrews www.southcoastfoam.com.au GOLD COAST SURF WORLD 07 5525 6380 Tomewin Street, Currumbin www.surfworldgoldcoast.com FIREWIRE SURFBOARDS 07 5587 7700 1/49 Currumbin Creek Rd Currumbin www.firewiresurfboards.com DMS 07 5559 5949 3/56 Currumbin Creek Rd Currumbin www.dmshapes.com D’ARCY HANDSHAPES 07 5559 5866 1/8 Hawker St, Currumbin www.darcysurfboards.com SHAPERS 07 5534 4228 - 9/7 Traders Way, Currumbin www.shapers.com.au

PARKES AUSTRALIA 02 6685 6627 4/83 Centennial Court, Byron Bay www.parkesaustralia.com MADDOG SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6022 Ewingsdale Rd, Byron Bay maddog.com.au MC SURF DESIGNS 02 6685 8778 - 3 Banksia Drive, Byron Bay www.mcsurf.com.au MUNRO SURFBOARDS 02 6685 6211 - 29 Acacia St, Byron Bay munrosurfboards.com.au T&C SURF DESIGN / McCOY 02 6685 7485 10 Acacia Street, Byron Bay

BYRON BAY LONGBOARDS 02 6685 5244

Shop 1 - 89 Jonson St, Byron Bay

MADDOG BEACH SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6466 4 Jonson St, Byron Bay www.maddog.com.au HO’OKUPU 02 6685 8861 - 2/9 Lawson St,

Byron Bay hookupusurf.com

UNPLUGGED 02 6685 7441 - Shop 1/ 2 Lawson St, Byron Bay www.unpluggedbyronbay.com

LENNOX HEAD SURF SHOP 02 6687 7038 71 Ballina St, Lennox Head ALL ABOVE BOARD 02 6687 7522 68 Ballina St, Lennox Head

MADDOG SURF CENTRE 02 6685 6094

45 River St, Ballina www.maddog.com.au

TRIPLE X WETSUITS 02 6686 3939 - 10 Piper Drive, Ballina www.triple-x.com.au

GUNTHER ROHN 02 6681 5879 - 3/10 Piper

Drive, Ballina www.guntherrohn.com

THE PLANK SHOP 02 6645 8362 Top of the Hill, Yamba

NSW MID NORTH COAST COOPERS SURF CENTRES 02 6654 0033

56D Beach St, Woolgoolga; 02 6652 8146 28 Orlando St, Coffs Harbour

GANGSTA SURF

1/15 Orlando Street, Coffs Harbour

FLANAGAN SURFBOARDS 0432 361 694

Unit 26, 22 Lawson Cres, Coffs Harbour www.flanagansurfboards.com

07 5534 3777 - 5 Stewart Rd, Currumbin

WOODY JACK SURFBOARDS

0415 789 706 - 7/25 Leonard Pde, Currumbin

DIVERSE SURF 07 5598 4848 - 476 Gold

Coast Hwy Tugun www.diversesurf.com.au

DORRINGTON SURFBOARDS 07 5599 4030

16 Musgrave Street, Kirra www.dorringtonsurfboards.com KIRRA SURF/WORLD SURFARIS 07 5536 3922 8 Creek St, Bilinga www.kirrasurf.com.au UNDERGROUND SURF 07 5599 1040 Shop 3/31 McLean St, Coolangatta www.undergroundsurf.com.au COOLANGATTA BOARD STORE 07 5536 7850 152 Griffith St, Coolangatta www.cbsboardstore.com COOLY SURF 07 5536 1470 - Cnr Dutton St & Marine Pde, Coolangatta

NSW NORTH COAST PADDLE TRIBE 0408 701 467 - 12/55 Ourimbah

Rd, Tweed Heads paddletribe.com.au SIDEWAYS 07 5524 6699 - 13-21 Greenway Dr, Tweed Heads sidewaysboardsports.com.au FULL FORCE SURFBOARDS 07 5524 2933 18/48 Machinery Dve,Tweed Heads SURF XCESS 02 6674 5350 88 Marine Parade, Kingscliff KINGY SURF 02 6674 8806 20 Marine Parade, Kingscliffe CABARITA SURF SHOP 02 6676 3151 1/38 Tweed Coast Rd, Cabarita Beach 3/16 Coast Rd, Cabarita Beach

BRUNSWICK SURF 02 6685 1283

1/12 The Terrace, Brunswick Heads www.brunswicksurf.com.au McTAVISH 02 6680 8807 - 91 Centenial Circuit, Byron Bay www.mctavish.com.au ESP SURFBOARDS 0404 059 321 - 2/81 Centennial Circuit, Byron Bay www.espsurfshop.com.au

SALTWATER WINE 02 6584 4877

1/125 Gordon St, Port Macquarie www.saltwaterwine.com.au SANDY FEET 02 6584 1995 5/21 Clarence St, Port Macquarie www.sandyfeetsurf.com.au JUNGLE SURF 02 6555 8556 - 86 Manning Street, Tuncurry www.junglesurf.com.au SALTWATER WINE 02 6554 7979 5 Wharf St, Forster www.saltwaterwine.com.au BOOMERANG BEACH SURF 02 6554 0351 Shop 4, Boomerang Dve, Pacific Palms GRAFFITI SURF DESIGNS 02 4981 3409 43 Donald St, Nelson Bay, Newcastle

NEWCASTLE NEWCASTLE SURF DESIGNS 02 4968 9989 4 Maitland Rd, Mayfield SAM EGAN SURFBOARDS 02 4969 7299 28 Maitland Rd, Islington www.samegan.com.au SURF FACTORY 16 Maitland Rd, Islington www.thesurffactory.com.au MARK RICHARDS SURFSHOP 02 4961 3088 755 Hunter St, Newcastle www.markrichardssurfboards.com SURFHOUSE PHOTOGRAPHY 61 Hunter St, Newcastle surfhousephotography.com BREAKAWAY SURF 02 4929 1144 - Shop 6 Hunter Street Mall, Newcastle PACIFIC DREAMS 02 4926 3355 - 7 Darby St, Newcastle www.pacificdreams.com.au SANBAH SURF 02 4962 2420 - Shop 27, The Junction Fair, Union St, Newcastle www.sanbah.com.au BREAKAWAY SURF CO. 02 4943 2699 181 Pacific Hwy Charlestown EGAN’S 02 4945 8055 575 Pacific Hwy, Belmont THE SURF SHACK 02 4945 8965 703 Pacific Hwy, Belmont South SWANSEA SURF SHOP 02 4971 4422 164 Pacific Hwy, Swansea swanseasurf.com.au CENTRAL COAST BEACHIN’ SURF 02 43 96 5159

BURFORD REINFORCED PLASTICS

ELUSIV SURFBOARDS

4/39 Bailey Crs, Southport komasurf.com SURF THE EARTH 07 5527 9855 - 33 Dominions Rd Ashmore www.surftheearth.com.au SURF FX 07 5531 3199 - 127 Ferry Road, Southport www.surf-fx.com SIDEWAYS 07 5592 3849 - 3012 Surfers Blvd, Surfers Paradise sidewaysboardsports.com.au

204

STUART SURF DESIGN 07 5572 0098

Pick up the next edition of smorgasboarder at any of these fine businesses - out in January. Businesses that advertise in smorgasboarder allow us to bring you the magazine for FREE. So, be sure to support them!

WATER SURF+ART+CAFE

Distinctively relaxed atmosphere, exceptional food, coffee and tea, great service, photographic art from Australia’s best photographers, exquisite gifts and select surfwear and boards. (02) 6651 4500 370 Harbour Drive, Coffs Harbour Jetty www.watersurfartcafe.com THE LOG SHACK 02 6658 0223 - 392 Harbour Dve, The Jetty Strip, Coffs Harbour www.thelogshack.com.au OUTER ISLAND SURFBOARDS 02 6655 7007 7 Bayldon Dr, Raleigh www.outerislandsurfboards.com

VALLA SURFBOARDS 02 6568 8909 8 Monro St, Nambucca Heads www.vallasurfboards.com.au COASTAL CURVES 02 6568 6902 - Ridge St,

Nambucca Heads www.coastalcurves.com

CRESCENT HEAD SURF CO. 02 6562 8306

33 Smith St, Kempsey

CRESCENT HEAD SURF SHOP 02 6566 0550 Crescent Head Tavern, Crescent Head

CRESO EXPRESSO 4 Shore Holiday Park, Crescent Head

INNER VISION SURF ‘N’ SKATE 02 6583 7790 80 William St, Port Macquarie

262 Main Rd, Toukley BOARD CITY 02 4397 1092 - 150 Main Rd, Toukley www.boardcity.com.au ADRIFT SURF 02 4332 8355 - 133 The Entrance Rd, The Entrance www.adriftsurf.com.au BOARDERLINE SURF SKATE 02 4332 7175 421 The Entrance Rd, Long Jetty www.boarderlinesurfskate.com SURFERS CHOICE 02 4334 6532 473 The Entrance Rd, Long Jetty www.surferschoice.com.au BATEAU BAY SURF N SPORT 02 4332 1157 101a Bateau Bay Road, Bateau Bay ONE EIGHTY SURF COMPANY 02 4385 8440 Shop 2, 82a Ocean View Dve, Wamberal www.180surfco.com.au ALPINE BEACH 02 4367 4944 177 The Entrance Road, Erina www.alpinebeach.com.au SLIMES 02 4365 5511 1/203 The Entrance Rd, Erina THREE POINTS SURF 02 4382 1541 170 Avoca Dve, Avoca Beach

NORTHERN BEACHES BEACH WITHOUT SAND 02 9918 2763

STAND UP PADDLE GEAR AUSTRALIA

02 9986 3420 6/53 Myora Rd, Terrey Hills www.supgearaustralia.com BALMORAL BOARDS 02 9970 8600 1228 Pittwater Rd, Narrabeen www.balmoralboards.com.au WICKS SURF CENTRE 02 9971 0760 1103 Pittwater Road, Collaroy Beach LONG REEF SURF 02 9982 4829 1012 Pittwater Rd, Collaroy www.longreefsurf.com.au WIND SURF ’N’ SNOW 02 9971 0999 17 Anzac Ave, Collaroy www.windsurfnsnow.com.au THE PERFECT WAVE 02 9939 0890 Suite 38, 42-46 Wattle Rd Brookvale www.theperfectwave.com.au BENNETT SURFBOARDS 02 9905 5157 180 Harbord Rd, Brookvale DRIPPING WET SURF CO. 02 9977 3549 398 Pittwater Rd, Mona Vale; 02 9977 3549 - 93 North Steyne, Manly www.dripwetsurf.com SUNSHINE SURFING 02 9977 4399 - 89 Pittwater Rd, Manly www.sunshinesurfing.com.au ALOHA MANLY STYLE 02 9977 3777 44 Pittwater Rd, Manly www.alohasurfmanly.com.au MANLY SURFBOARDS 02 9976 0591 - 46 North Steyne Rd, Manly www.basesurfboards.com SALTMOTION 02 9976 6518 Market Place, Manly www.saltmotion.com MANLY LONGBOARD CO. 02 9977 0093 39 Belgrave St, Manly manlylongboard.com SURFECTION 02 9969 1011 - 522 Military Rd, Mosman www.surfectionmosman.com

SYDNEY PATAGONIA 93 Bathurst St, Sydney

www.patagonia.com.au BONDI UNDERGROUND 02 9365 0870 2/72 Campbell Pde, Bondi Beach DRIPPING WET SURF CO. 02 9300 0055 180186 Campbell Parade Bondi Beach SURF CULTURE 02 9389 5477 - 40 Bronte Rd, Bondi Junction www.surfculture.com.au

CRONULLA SUTHERLAND

EASTCOAST STAND UP PADDLE Dedicated to SUP - Sydney’s original Stand Up Paddle outlet. Performance, flatwater, race, and distance boards – we have a board to suit all skill levels.

0413 456009 0418 294854 27 Throsby Close Barden Ridge eastcoaststanduppaddle.com.au

1a Nth Avalon Rd, Avalon

RAISED BY WOLVES 02 9918 8861 - 40 Old

Barrenjoey Rd, Avalon, 02 9997 4838 Shop 3, 8-10 Waratah St, Mona Vale www.raisedbywolves.com.au LITTLE DRAGON 0403 974 967 1 Bramley Lane, Newport Beach RON WADE SURF DESIGN 02 9979 7071 23 Bassett Street, Mona Vale ronwadesurfboards.com.au CHANNEL ISLAND SURFBOARDS 02 9997 8266 4/76 Darly St, Mona Vale cisurfboards.com QUIKSILVER MONA VALE 02 9999 3727 1729 Pitt Water Rd, Mona Vale DIVISION SURF 02 9979 5334 Cnr Bungan & Waratah Sts, Mona Vale, divisionsurf.com.au SUPER SWELL 02 9144 3229 166 Mona Vale Rd, St Ives

LESSONS TOURS AND SALES Call Peter Japp on 0488 887 SUP or 0488 88 77 87

sutherlandshiresupschool.com.au

nov/dec 2011

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SALTWATER DREAM 02 6495 1600 39 Market St, Merimbula COUNTRY VIC SURF SHACK 03 5155 4933

CRONULLA STANDUP PADDLEBOARD Everything to do with S.U.P Lessons, Hire, Sales of New and Used equipment, Accesories, Apparel & more 02 9544 2293 0400 085 823 Shop 3,13-15 The Kingsway Cronulla, NSW 2230 www.cronullasup.com JACKSON SURFBOARDS 02 9524 2700

57 Captain Cook Drive, Caringbah www.jacksonsurfboards.com.au TRIPLE BULL 02 9524 4822 - 41 Captain Cook Dr, Caringbah; 02 9544 0354 - 23 Kingsway, Cronulla www.triplebullsurf.com CRONULLA SURF DESIGN 02 9544 0433 8 Cronulla St, Cronulla www.cronullasurfdesign.com.au KING SURFBOARDS 02 9521 3645 577 Princes Hwy, Kirrawee

WOLLONGONG RETRO WOMBAT 02 4267 1322

228 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul www.retrowombat.com FINBOX BOARDSTORE 02 4268 2050 1/269 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul thefinbox.blogspot.com BYRNE SURF AND SKI 02 4268 3455 303 Lawrence Hargrave Dve, Thirroul 02 4226 1122 -115 Princes Highway, Fairy Meadow byrnesurfboardsaustralia.com SURF PIT 02 4283 7196 - 2/100 Railway St, Corrimal www.surfpit.com.au SKIPP SURFBOARDS 02 4229 1202 231 Crown Street, Wollongong (factory showroom); 02 4228 8878 24 Flinders St, Wollongong www.skippsurfboards.com.au CARABINE SURF DESIGNS 02 4229 9462 36 Flinders St, Wollongong

NSW SOUTH COAST SHELLHARBOUR SURF & SKATE 02 4295 3373

1/16B Addison St, Shellharbour ZINK SURF 02 4233 1189 - 136 Terralong St, Kiama www.zinksurf.com.au NATURAL NECESSITY SURF SHOP 02 4234 1636 115 Fern St, Gerringong www.nnss.com.au AQUATIQUE 02 4421 8159 - 125-127 Junction St, Nowra; 02 4441 5530 - 55 Owen St, Huskisson www.aquatique.com.au BUSTED SURF CO. 02 4447 3485 10 Fairlands St, Culburra Beach SUN & SURF SHOP 02 4441 1938 Shop 1, 168 Jacobs Dve, Sussex Inlet MARK RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN 0427 767 176 441A Bendalong Rd, Bendalong www.markrabbidge.com AKWA SURF 02 4454 5222 - Shop 1, Mellick’s Corner, Princess Hwy, Milton www.akwasurf.com.au

SOUTHERN MAN SURF SHOP

02 4454 0343 -138 Princes Hwy, Ulladulla www.southernman.com.au SALTWATER DREAM 02 4472 3811 2 Bay Central, Batemans Bay OFFSHORE SURF SHOP 02 4474 4350 66 Vulcan St, Moruya offshoresurf.com.au NAROOMA SURF & SKATE 02 4476 1422 30 Princes Hwy, Narooma DSC SURFBOARDS 0424 867 962 Princes Highway, Narooma BERMAGUI SURF SHOP 02 6493 4849 4/28 Lamont St, Bermagui RAW SURFBOARDS 02 6494 4466 1291 Tathra Road, Kalaru www.rawsurfboards.com.au BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS - 02 6495 9900 Widgeram Rd, Merimbula www.bushrat.com MERIMBULA SURF SHOP 02 6495 1515 Merimbula Drive, Merimbula

507 Esplanade, Lakes Entrance ATOLL TRAVEL 1800 622 310 - 4 Bridge Street, Foster www.atolltravel.com SERIOUS SURF STUFF 03 5674 2540 1 Williams St , Inverloch VORTEX SURF & SKATE 03 5672 4112 54 McBride Ave, Wonthaggi

PHILLIP ISLAND OUTEREEF 03 5678 5677 - 73 Phillip Island

ANGLESEA SURF CENTRE 03 5263 1530 111 Great Ocean Rd, Anglesea www. secondhandsurfboards.com.au LORNE SURF SHOP 03 5289 1673 130 Mountjoy Pde, Lorne SHARKY’S 03 5289 2421 Mountjoy Pde, Lorne HODGY’S SURF CENTRE 03 5237 7883 143 Great Ocean Rd, Apollo Bay hodgys.com SHIPWRECK COAST PORT CAMPBELL TRADING CO. 03 5598 6444

27 Lord Street, Port Campbell

Rd, San Remo www.outereef.com.au FULLCIRCLE SURF 03 5678 5873 115 Marine Pde, San Remo; 03 5956 7453 4-5 Vista Pl, Cape Woolamai www.fullcirclesurf.com.au ISLANTIS 03 5956 7553 - 10-12 Phillip Island Rd, Newhaven www.islantis.com.au ISLAND SURF CENTRE 03 5952 2578 147 Thompson Ave, Cowes; 03 5952 3443 65 Smiths Beach Rd, Smiths Beach www.islandsurfboards.com.au ISLAND SURF SHACK 03 5952 1659 148 Thompson Ave, Cowes

TAYLORS SURFODESY 03 5562 5681

MELBOURNE ZAK SURFBOARDS 03 9416 7384

2 Pendrigh Place, St Helens TAS

319 Victoria Rd, Thornbury www.zaksurfboards.com TRIGGER BROS SURF & SAIL 03 9537 3222 Shop 2, 1 St Kilda Rd, St Kilda www.triggerbros.com.au RPS (THE BOARD STORE) 03 9525 6475 87 Ormond Rd, Elwood www.rpstheboardstore.com BRIGHTON SURF CO. 03 9593 2211 43 Church St, Brighton SHQ BOARDSPORTS 03 9598 2867 81 Beach Rd, Sandringham www.shq.com.au MORDY SURF CENTRE 03 9580 1716 628 Main St, Mordialloc mordysurf.com.au

PAULOWNIA SURFBOARD SUPPLIES

03 9588 2533 - 45 Governor Road, Mordialloc paulowniaparadise.com.au OKE SURFBOARDS 03 9587 3553 Factory 1 1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside www.okesurfboards.com TRIGGER BROS SURF & SAIL 03 9770 2223 7 Rossmith St, Frankston; 03 5989 8402 Point Leo Rd, Point Leo; 03 5984 5670 46 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento www.triggerbros.com.au PENINSULA SURF CENTRE 03 9783 3811 40 Wells St, Frankston; 03 5975 1800 835 Nepean Hwy, Mornington; 03 5985 4637 - 2137 Pt Nepean Hwy, Rye www.peninsulasurf.com.au BALIN 03 5986 6069 - 12 Newington Ave, Rosebud www.balin.com.au BEAN SURFING 03 5984 5199 4 Ocean Beach Rd, Sorrento

VIC SURF COAST MURFS LONGBOARDS 03 5255 5525

82 The Terrace, Ocean Grove www.murfslongboards.com.au STRAPPER SURF 03 5255 2666 67b The Terrace, Ocean Grove www.strapper.com.au GREEN ROOM SURF SHOP 03 5256 2996 64 The Terrace, Ocean Grove www.greenroom.com.au RASTA’S 03 5254 3255 51 Hitchcock Ave, Barwon Heads rastasurfboards.com.au STONKER TORQUAY 03 5261 6077 - 1a Baines Cr, Torquay www.stonker.com.au HYDROPHILIC 0421 504 621 - 1C Baines Cr, Torquay www.southcoastlongboards.com.au SURF WORLD 03 5261 4606 Surf City Plaza, Torquay www.surfworld.org.au PATAGONIA 03 5261 4420 - 116 Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay www.patagonia.com.au TORQUAY SURF 03 5261 5666 - 3/108 Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay STRAPPER 03 5261 3508 - 96 Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay; 03 5261 2312 - 106 Surfcoast Hwy, Torquay www.strapper.com.au WATERMARKS PHOTO GALLERY 03 5264 7232 38-40 Bell Street, Torquay www.watermarksphotogallery.com.au TORQUAY SURFING ACADEMY 03 5261 2022 34A Bell St, Torquay torquaysurf.com.au TIGERFISH 03 5264 7271 - 12/15 Bell St, Torquay www.tigerfish.com.au

132 Liebig Street, Warrnambool

WARRNAMBOOL SURF CENTRE 03 5562 1981 136 Koroit Street, Warrnambool

DAKTARI SURF/DIVE 03 5568 2800 33 Bank Street, Port Fairy www.daktarisport.com.au

TASMANIA LONG POINT SURF 03 6375 1717 60 Burgess Street, Bicheno

BAY SURF SHOP 03 6376 1755 SCAMANDER BEACH SURFSHOP 03 6372 5529 6 Lagoon Esplanade, Scamander www.scamandersurf.com RED HERRING www.redherringsurf.com.au

03 6231 9001 - 75 Liverpool Street, Hobart 03 6431 2455 - 12 Mount Street, Burnie 03 6331 0984 - 127 Charles Street, Launceston 03 6272 7552 - Shop 41, Northgate

SOUTH AUSTRALIA BARREL SURF 08 8555 5422 - 10c Cadell St, Goolwa www.barrellsurf.com.au

FLY BOARDRIDING (08) 8555 5331

Shop 18, Goolwa Shopping Centre, Goolwa

BIG SURF AUSTRALIA 08 8554 2399 24 Goolwa Rd, Middleton SOUTHERN SURF 08 8554 2375

36 North Tce, Port Elliot

THE SURF SHOP 08 8552 5466 -15 Albert Place, Victor Harbor thesurfshop.net.au SURF ESTEEM 08 8557 7201 - Aldinga Central Shopping Centre www.surfesteem.com

THE DING KING / CLARK SURFBOARDS

0422 443 789 - 20 Cottage Road, Hackham leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au

PREECE’S SOUTH PORT SURF 08 8386 0404

159 Esplanade, Port Noarlunga South www.preece-sthport-surf.com.au

FLY BOARDRIDING 08 8386 0100

Shop 41 Seaford Shopping Centre www.flyboardriding.com.au

ONBOARD SURF WIND SNOW 08 8294 3866

21 Saltfleet St, Port Noarlunga; 1-3 Lights Landing, Holdfast Shores, Glenelg www.onboardsurf.com.au

MV2 08 8382 2468

36 Beach Road, Christies Beach

CUTLOOSE SURF 08 8326 0939 - 4 Piping

Lane, Lonsdale www.cutloosesurf.com.au

MID COAST SURF 08 83845522 - 8/200 Dyson

Road, Lonsdale www.midcoastsurf.com.au

ISLAND SURF 08 8296 9776

363 Brighton Road Hove

EXTREME BOARDRIDERS 08 8295 1219 1/118 Jetty Rd, Glenelg

JRS SURF & SKI 08 838 47466 - Centro

Colonnades; 08 8377 0322 - Westfield Marion; 08 8223 5505 -121 Grenfell St, Adelaide CBD; 08 8231 9577 - Myer Centre, Adelaide CBD; 08 8396 4822 Tea Tree Plus www.jrssurfandski.com.au

WALLBRIDGE SURFBOARDS 08 8376 4914

27 Oaklands Rd, Somerton Park www.wallbridge.com.au

SNOW & SURF CO. 08 8223 5277 187 Rundle St, Adelaide; 08 8332 0900 177 The Parade, Norwood www.snowsurf.com.au

DING REPAIRS AGNES WATER/1770 REEF 2 BEACH

(Mon – Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm) 07 4974 9072

SUNSHINE COAST DA BOMB

(Mon – Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm) 07 5451 0620 - Maroochydore 07 5437 9201 - Bokarina

BRISBANE

NORAH HEAD

BUCKO’S SURFBOARD REPAIRS & RESTORATIONS

(M-F, 10-5.30pm, weekends by appointment 0422 304 078

LONG JETTY

S & D SURF DESIGNS

(M-F, 9-4pm, Sat 9-12pm) 0437 032 614

SYDNEY NORTH

PRIMITIVE SURF

(Mon-Fri, 8:30-5:30pm, Thurs 8:30am-8pm, Sat, 8:30-4pm, Sun, 10-4pm) 07 3266 1001

SOUTHPORT

BROOKVALE SURFBOARD REPAIRS

(M-F,8:30-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9-4pm) 0403 971 072

CHAOS SURFBOARDS

KOMA

(M-F 9-5pm, Sat 9-12pm) 0402 863 763

MIAMI

(M-F,9-6pm, Sat & Sun 8:30-6pm) 02 9907 2769

WOOLONGONG

DINO’S DING REPAIRS

(M-F 9-5pm, Sat 9-12pm) 0409 727 735

TUGUN DIVERSE

(M-F,8:30-5:30pm, Sat and Sun, 9-4pm) 07 5598 4848

KIRRA

SKIPP SURFBOARDS

M-F,9-5:30, Thurs 9-7:30pm, Sat 9-4, Sun 10-4) 02 4228 8878

JERVIS BAY

INNER FEELING SURFBOARDS (7 days, 9-5pm) 02 4441 6756

NAROOMA

PADDLE TRIBE REPAIRS & SURFBOARDS RESTORATIONS (Mon-Sat 10-5) DSC (7 days, 9-5pm)

0408701467 or 0421994649

COOLANGATTA

0424 867 962

THORNBURY

UNDERGROUND SURF

ZAK SURFBOARDS

(7 days, 9-5pm) 07 5599 1040

(Mon-Fri,10-6pm; Sat 10-5pm) 03 9416 7384

TORQUAY

FULL FORCE

(M-F, 9-5pm) 07 5524 2933

STONKER TORQUAY (Mon – Fri, 9-5pm) 03 5261 6077

BYRON BAY

DR DING SURFBOARD REPAIRS (Mon-Fri, 8-5pm, Sat 10-4pm, Sun 10-2pm) 0431 740 940

YAMBA

PHILLIP ISLAND ISLAND SURF SHOP - COWES (7 days, 9-5pm) 03 5952 2578

THE PLANK SHOP

FULLCIRCLE SURF

TOMBSTONE SURFBOARDS

ADELAIDE

02 6645 8362

(Tues-Fri, 9-4pm, Sat, 9-12pm) 0432 330 826

COFFS HARBOUR THE LOG SHACK

(M-F, 10-5pm, Sat & Sun 10-2:30pm) 02 6658 0223

(7 days, 9-5pm) 03 5956 7453

WALLBRIDGE SURFBOARDS

(M-F, 9-5.30pm, Sat 9-4pm) 08 8376 4914

SOUTH ADELAIDE THE DING KING (M-F, 9-5pm) 0422 443 789

MTB SURF 08 8391 3311 Mount Barker

FIX BROKEN BOARDS?

YORKES SURF 08 8854 4008 Marion Bay

Promote your repair business for $15 an edition. Call 0401 345 201 nov/dec 2011

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Planning a surfing holiday or weekend away? These fine accommodation options offer great proximity to surf beaches in some of the country’s best surf spots. Get out there.

SURF TRIP ACCOMMODATION

QUEENSLAND

NEW SOUTH WALES

PORTOBELLO BY THE SEA  6 Beerburrum St, Dicky Beach Caloundra Fantastic surf spots right on your doorstep. Moffat, Neill Street, Dicky Beach all within a 5 minute walk. Luxury accommodation within 50 m of some of the best restaurants Caloundra has to offer. Proximity: Across from patrolled Dicky Beach, on-site dining and shopping. Phone: 07 5491 9038

E: info@portobellobythesea.com.au

www.portobellobythesea.com.au From $325 for two nights.

PANDANUS PALMS HOLIDAY RESORT 21 Cumming Pde, Point Lookout, North Stradbroke Island

THE ISLANDER HOLIDAY RESORT

High on a hill overlooking Home Beach, looking north towards Moreton Island, offering plenty of open space for children to play, full size tennis court and swimming pool.

Ideally located, whether it’s adventure or relaxation you’re after, there’s something for everyone - pool, tennis court, bbq area, kids playground, scooter & car hire. Studio, 1 & 2 bedroom apartments available, all fully self-contained with foxtel, dvd player, wireless internet access, balconies and parking.

IBIS WOLLONGONG Cnr Church and Market Street Wollongong

PHILLIP ISLAND VISITOR INFORMATION CENTRE 895 Phillip Island Road, Newhaven, Phillip Island

3.5 star hotel in the heart of Wollongong restaurant and business district, minutes from beautiful beaches. Winner Best Standard Accommodation on the South Coast 2008, 2009 & 2010. Air conditioned rooms include tea and coffee facilities, mini bar fridges, flatscreen TV and internet connectivity. Special Access rooms and facilities are also available.

Planning a surf trip to Phillip Island? The island offers over 2000 beds and over 100 accommodation businesses to choose from. Contact Phillip Island Visitor Information Centre’s accommodation specialists for all your accommodation needs. Let our friendly staff assist you in finding the perfect place for you to stay.

www.pandanuspalmsresort.com

Proximity: 10 minute walk to the beach and WIN Entertainment Centre. On the doorstep of Crown St Mall Phone: 02 4223 6000 E: H6377@accor.com www.accorhotels.com/6377

P: 1300 366 422 E: piinfo@basscoast.vic.gov.au www.visitbasscoast.com

From $330.00 for two nights

From $119 per room per night

The two or three bedroom villas are fully self-contained with large living area and private balcony, own BBQ and linen is supplied. We can arrange return vehicle ferry crossings at a discounted rate. Proximity: 500m walk to Home Beach and Stradbroke Island Beach Hotel. 2km to cafes, shops and Gorge Walk. P: 07 3409 8106 E: bookings@pandanuspalmsresort.com

CALOUNDRA HOLIDAY CENTRE 1/78 Bulcock St, Caloundra Caloundra Holiday Centre has been assisting holidaymakers find their perfect Sunshine Coast getaway for over 25 years. We offer one of the largest portfolios of holiday accommodation in Caloundra, consisting of a great choice of budget to luxury self contained units and houses at all beaches. With family friendly prices and seniors’ discounts available, we’re sure to have a property to suit your needs at a competitive price. Our friendly and experienced staff can assist you with finding your perfect beach break! Request our free colour brochure and price list today! P: 07 5491 5444 E: info@caloundraholidaycentre.com.au

caloundraholidaycentre.com.au From $340 p/w, low season TV 206

gym

laundry

41 East Coast Rd, Point Lookout North Stradbroke Island

VICTORIA

WHALE WATCH OCEAN BEACH RESORT Samarinda Dve, Point Lookout, North Stradbroke Island Located at North Stradbroke Island’s Point Lookout, Whale Watch Ocean Beach Resort provides endless views along the main surfing beach (which is one of the east’s coasts renowned surf spots) and over the Pacific Ocean, to the Gold Coast and beyond. Proximity: Short walk to Point Lookout Surf Club and all the major Point Lookout attractions. P: 07 3409 8555 E: reservations@ whalewatchresort.com.au www.whalewatchresort.com.au kitchen

parking

wi-fi

Proximity: 2 min walk to hotel, pub, bowls club, shops & restaurants. Opposite Home/ Cylinder beaches. P: 07 3409 8388 E: islander@stradbrokeresorts.com.au

islander.stradbrokeresorts.com.au From $225 for 2 nights

STRADBROKE ISLAND HOLIDAYS Shop 2 Raby Bay Harbour 152 Shore Street West Cleveland North Stradbroke Island is the ideal holiday destination for families, couples or maybe just a day trip. Located one hour from Brisbane, Straddie is easily accessible by Stradbroke Ferries’ fast reliable vehicle ferries or water taxi which depart from Cleveland. Stradbroke Island Holidays offer an efficient booking service to arrange all of your accommodation and luxury Stradbroke Ferry transfers to and from North Stradbroke Island. P: 07 3821 0266 www.stradbrokeholidays.com.au pool

airconditioning

KIAMA COVE MOTEL 10 Bong Bong St, Kiama Kiama Cove Motel is located in the heart of Kiama, overlooking Surf Beach with most rooms having ocean views, airconditioning and king sized beds. All with complimentary continental breakfasts. Proximity: Right on Kiama Beach. Short walk to the main street of Kiama. Phone: 02 4232 3000 E: kiamacove@bigpond.com www.kiamacove.com.au From $99-$169 per room per night family-friendly

pet-friendly

SILVERWATER RESORT 17 Potters Hill Rd, San Remo Spacious one, two and three-bedroom self-contained apartments all with spectacular bay views and modern conveniences. Complementing the 4.5 star accommodation is an excellent range of resort facilities including indoor and outdoor pool, billiards and games room, tennis and basketball courts, restaurant and bar. Proximity: Five mins to surf beach, two mins to town Phone: 1800 033 403 res@silverwaterresort.com.au www.silverwaterresort.com.au From $175 per night spa

bbq

nov/dec 2011

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Byron Surf Swap Meet - sharing boards, waves and good times. Photo: Pat Quirk

THE EVER ENJOYABLE BYRON BAY

ROVING REPORTER PAT QUIRK LOADS UP THE ‘CARAVAN OF COURAGE’ AND SPENDS A WEEKEND IN BYRON FOR THE SURF FESTIVAL.

SURF DIRECTORY UNDERTOW? FLASH RIPS? KEEP KIDS

SAFE!

AS SEEN

ON TV

ONLY $39.99

CAN YOU AFFORD

A couple of months ago my wife and I decided that it was time we headed back to Byron Bay with our 2-year-old daughter and 30-year-old caravan. By pure coincidence (or perhaps a bit of craftiness on my part) I managed to book us in on the weekend of the first ever Byron Bay Surfing Festival. So from 21-23 October we headed down the coast with the van fully packed.

attitude in the water. We shared some waves and even high-fived on a particularly long ride. Even the saltiest of sea dogs out that day - a guy in his 50s with well worn dreadlocks - was happy to share waves as well.

A $50,000 WIPEOUT? SURF TRAVEL INSURANCE

Enjoying the stoke is what surfing should be all about. Note from the wife: I wasn’t joking about the chatting.

indosurf.com.au

For almost 25 years I have been very fortunate to holiday in Byron Bay and always seem to enjoy myself no matter how good or bad the surfing conditions are. Thankfully this weekend was no exception. In my humble opinion, the greatest thing about the place is not the stunning location and the great waves, but rather the people you get to meet and chat with, especially at some of the surf breaks. Note from the wife: We call Pat ‘Have-a-chat,’ so for those of you concerned, there is more talking than surfing being done, remain concerned.

Out of the water, with the festival on, there was plenty happening. A personal highlight was meeting Carl Tanner - a well known collector - who shared some of his amazing boards on Saturday at the community centre. These included a spectacular red seventies gun by Midget Farrelly found in Hawaii. I unfortunately missed seeing Andrew from Grown Surfboards talk on wooden boards, but heard through the grapevine that the presentation was a cracker!

SURF BUSINESS

The best part was to come on Sunday, with the Surf Swap Meet being held at Wategos in the morning. There were some amazing vintage boards as well as just about every type of new board under the sun. Standouts for me in the new boards were the Thomas Bexon creations, the Michael Petersons and the Wegeners - who incidentally had the best spot on the beach under a palm leaf shelter.

Includes website, stock, patent, advertising and marketing material

Byron Bay is synonymous with longboarding and I was ready for a surf. The waves were small but there was a nice shape and - inconceivably - people were happily sharing waves with each other! I’m not talking about dropping in. Instead, I’m talking about people on the inside calling others onto waves to share with them! Unbelievably relaxing, and a great way to start the weekend. Just to to top it off, the four whales at play in the bay were icing on an already awesome cake. As to the interesting people I came across... These included a lady in her 50s, who started surfing only six years ago and got the best slide of the morning. There were two girls in their twenties surfing old school longboards - one of whom said to me she was the happiest girl alive after we started to chat about what a magic morning it was. A backpacker from northern Europe - I can’t remember which country he was from - had such an amazing

from INDO SURF & LINGO

FOR SALE www.learn2surfstrap.com

SELLING UNDER STOCK VALUATION!

Cheap business. Enquiries sales@learn2surfstrap.com

I hope the festival continues next year to give me a perfect excuse to return. After writing this I can’t wait to get back down there and unwind again! If there’s one thing I took away from Byron, it’s a reminder to have a little respect for others, in and out of the water. Let the good times roll, because you get back what you put in. Thanks to my beautiful wife and young daughter for an amazing time away and for letting me get lots of surfs in. I have a feeling next time I am there my baby girl may want to be on the board with me! Thanks Byron, catch you again soon!

ADVERTISE IN THE

SURF DIRECTORY Super-affordable rates for the smallest of budgets. Call 0401 345 201 nov/dec 2011

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8/11/11 2:31 AM

CLOSEOUT: RELAX

James McMillan on a Wayne Lynch inspired Darcy single fin, shared on the beach during the Surf Swap. PHOTO: Toth, supplied

Bv yronq Bay c celebrates sb urfingv THE INAUGURAL BYRON BAY SURF FESTIVAL TOOK PLACE THIS OCTOBER. FESTIVAL ORGANISER MICHAEL JAHN GIVES A WRAP ON THE WEEKEND'S EVENTS

With sunkissed skies, a light breeze and joyful waves Byron Bay welcomed its first dedicated Surf Festival. Two and a half days of smiles, stoke and pure fun or as the local surf curator, artist, film maker and soul surfer Johnny Abegg described the weekend “…there isn’t anything quite like it in surfing. I reckon you are on a winner. Bring the fun back!” It was all about connecting the surfing community, from young aspiring artists - a little as 4 years old - to inpirational surfing heroes of old. So, who better to kick off the official opening ceremony of the inaugural Byron Surf Festival then shaper and surf icon Bob McTavish.

With an endless supply of entertaining tales, he showed a historical slideshow about his first experiences as a genuine surf bum in Byron some 50 years ago, followed by a brief talk on shaping, current trends and interesting designs. With a cheer from the crowd, Bob wrapped up by saying: “It’s about time Byron had its own surf festival... “ 208

The night went on with laidback surfers enjoying cold ales at the Stone & Wood Brewery to the psychedelic surf rock of Neil Purchase Jnr.'s band, Haldane's Daughters.

Woody’s Surf Shack, with Dick Hoole’s live commentary on his legendary surf film Tubular Swells followed by live music from The Grains.

On Saturday, the Top Shop cafe opened its doors to a large crowd for the surf art and photography show featuring amongst others, Matty Yates, Justin Crawford and local legend George Greenough with an acoustic performance by talented local musician Josh Hamilton.

Wategos Beach was the place to be on Sunday morning for the first ever Byron Surf Festival Surf Swap Meet. The day was an epic and extremely fun fusion of age, gender, style and unique surfcraft. The swap meet also saw Australian surfboard shapers displaying their craft.

Down the road, people filled the Byron Community Centre, attending the free workshops and talks including surf fitness, breath control techniques and wooden board shaping demos while next door, the Gold Coast Surf World Museum exhibited vintage surfboards and historical memorabilia arranged by Kirra legend Mal Sutherland.

Contest rashies were replaced with Hawaiian and flannel shirts as surfers entertained an excited crowd in the Freestyle&Stoke expression session on finless, logs, fish and pre-80s surfboards. The day at Wategos concluded in style with an impressive tandem surfing exhibition with world-renowned Fred and Lily Branger.

At the Youth Activities Centre the stART me up art competition for kids was cranking with kid rock bands playing, groms skating, freestyle dancing and painting. Parents had a hard time getting their kids to go home.

Finally, this special weekend came to an end with the core festival crew listening to Dan Hannaford’s chilled out tunes, as part of the closing ceremony at The Pass Café. Myself and the other festival organisers Vanessa Thompson and James McMillan were totally stoked with the outcome and the overwhelmingly positive feedback. Stay tuned for an even more epic surf festival next year www.byronbaysurffestival.com

Right in the heart of town, at the Railway Park, locals and visitors strolled through the surf orientated market stalls, while only a stone’s throw away, at Retrospect Galleries the ‘Surf Culture Now’ Art Show also enjoyed plenty of traffic to view the works of Alby Falzon, Mark Sutherland, James McMillan, Rusty Miller, Andrew Kidman and more. The highlight for most was Saturday night's film and music by Andrew Kidman and the Windy Hills plus a special Australian premier screening of Taylor Steele and friends' short film on Andy Irons,. The night continued at

ACROSS, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Freestyle&Stoke crew, Vanessa talks to Tom Wegener, the finless crew, Jeremy "Bylesy" Byles; Max and Mikey, Jimmy and his artwork, Tandem surfers going out, Art groms, Brett Caller upside down; Thomas Bexon and his spoon. PHOTOS: James McMillan and Lisa Moffatt.

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SOUTHSIDE SURF EVENT FUN FOR ALL Here's some action and fun from the 2011 Spring Classic, hosted by the Southside Malibu Club of Cronulla which turned out to be the perfect day of surfing and getting together with friends.

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"Most folk and competitors thought it was unbelievable surf," said Club president Wayne Egan. "It simply just got better all day, with great surfing from local guys and visitors like Isaac Paddon and Dane Wilson amongst a host of top surfers from up and down the coast."

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PHOTOS: IAN MORTON

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