Smorgasboarder free surf mag Sep 2012 by Smorgasboarder Magazine

A HUGE 180 PAGES OF AMAZING PEOPLE WE ALWAYS WANTED TO MEET

Because surf is free...

WELCOME TO NEAL CAMERON ‘S WORLD OF INVENTION... P30

SPRING LEGENDS: WAYNE LYNCH | BILL WALLACE | BARRIE SUTHERLAND

WIN A $5000 QUIVER

2012 SURF SHOP SPECIAL... P137 | FRESH, NEW-LOOK BOARD PROFILES... P112

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A QUALITY SPRINGSUIT FOR $199?

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Surfer: Marcus Aboody

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! T R I D E TH E T S ’T WA

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Stockist Enquiries - 1300 344 575

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DETAILS & STUFF

WHERE TO PICK SMORGASBOARDER UP Grab it FREE at quality surf stores, shapers and cool cafes on the coast of Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria, South Australia, Tasmania and New Zealand.

CAN’T GET THERE? SUBSCRIBE If you can’t get to a store, have smorgasboarder delivered to your door. Sign up at www.smorgasboarder.com.au. It’ll arrive every two months. Back issues are available for $5.

THE COVER SHOT

$21 IN AUSTRALIA OR NZ GETS YOU SIX EDITIONS.

Coolum is home to so many talented free surfers including top pro Julian Wilson but a young man who is also climbing the junior ranks and making a name for himself on the comp scene is Kelly Norris. Formerly from Terrigal and a top notch swimmer and junior lifesaver, Kelly has turned his sights on surfing winning a host of events including the Qld U18 State Championship, the Fox Grom Shoot Out and the Beach Retreat Coolum Junior Surf Classic. Kelly explains his love for competition. “I love free surfing but I live for that winning feeling in comps more than anything.” Recently Breaka signed him as youth ambassador. Things are looking up for this Air-oh-naut as this photo shows. Photo: Smico.

BOYS & GIRLS OF SMORGASBOARDER LOTS OF STUFF & ADVERTISING Dave Swan dave@smorgasboarder.com.au 0401 345 201 NEW ZEALAND STUFF ‘Jiff’ Morris jeff@smorgasboarder.co.nz +64 (0)220 943 913 LOTS OF STUFF & DESIGN Mark Chapman mark@smorgasboarder.com.au 0400 875 884 SOUTH AUSTRALIAN STUFF James Ellis james@smorgasboarder.com.au 0410 175 552 STUFF, ACCOUNTS & EVERYTHING ELSE Louise Gough advertising@smorgasboarder.com.au

CONTRIBUTORS This is your mag. Tell us your stories, send us your pics, let us know your thoughts... Ideas & submissions: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au

WWW.SMORGASBOARDER.COM.AU smorgasboarder is published by Huge C Media Pty Ltd ABN 30944673055. All information is correct at time of going to press. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for errors in articles or advertisements, or unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or illustrations. The opinions and words of the authors do not necessarily represent those of the publisher. All rights reserved. Reproduction in part or whole is strictly prohibited without prior permission.

We print with Pep Central and Craft Inprint Group, an environmentally aware and committed printer whose business is founded upon the principles of minimising waste and maximising recycling. Nice work.

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S H A K E D O W N E

P: Matt Smith

ARBOR

TEAM

K ODY

RIDER

N OB L E

A R B O R C O L L E C T I V E . C O M / S K AT E D E A L E R I N F O R M AT I O N : I N F O @ F U T U R E S P O R T. C O M . A U | 0 2 4 3 6 5 1 8 3 8

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/ARBORCOLLECTIVE

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Matt Rot celebrates 30 with weed... Seaweed.

SPRING IS HAPPINESS It’s astounding. The days are getting longer and the morning chill is slowly disappearing. With the sun popping up over the horizon a bit earlier ever day, the amount of heads popping up over the dunes for morning surf checks is steadily increasing too. The carparks are filling up. Those of us less keen on a brisk, winter morning’s paddle are finally starting to surface again to try shake off that extra layer or two of winter-padding, getting some semblance of summer fitness on the go. After all, there’s only so many times you can do the “it’s not a sixpack, it’s a keg” joke, Grandad.

Power Base Fins & Boxes - Completely Integrated

Yes it’s great to welcome the warmer weather back, but the best thing about spring is it’s always happy time. People smile more, laugh more, do more and are generally nicer in Spring, it seems. In the spirit of happiness, we’re oddly reprinting our cover photo from the last edition on this page… Why? Because a) it makes us happy and b) we found out the full, story attached to it after going to print... From photographer and writer, Matt Rot: “Those are actually pieces of seaweed that were drifting in the lineup during a session on my 30th birthday. My friend Jr and I put them on our heads to pretend we had dreadlocks, and I got spit out of that barrel right in front of him, seaweed wig intact. Classic photo. “20 minutes later we went and surfed another wave on the island, a right-hand slab that is very similar to Teahupoo, it was around 10 foot (20 foot faces) and barely paddle-able. On my second wave, I got driven head first into the reef and only survived because of my helmet. Life is crazy, no? “The craziest part of my 30th birthday surf/death extravaganza is that for the past 15 years I had told people I was going to kill myself the day I turned 30… I reckoned life ended at 30. It was always a joke, but I said it a lot... and this is a prime example of us manifesting our own reality. Very fortunate to have survived that one, with only a major concussion, an hour of my memory erased and stitches in my eye.” Happy story? Of course. NOT dying is always happy. Having a brilliant photo of you and your mate wearing seaweed for hair on the day you didn’t die? Well that makes it even better.

MORE POWER MORE CONTROL

Now with happy thoughts in mind, go forth, love spring, enjoy this edition of the mag and make someone smile. All of this will only make you... happier. Cheers!

OWEN WRIGHT

Chooses DXL CERAMIC C4 with Power Base Boxes

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BYRON BAY

FIND DIRECTION

CLASSIC PHOTOS

NEAL CAMERON

Inventor, creator, leftfield thinker

INSIDE THIS ISSUE

What’s in store (and in the pub) for the 2012 Surf Festival

Artist Guy Hastings has put himself on the map, with maps

Barrie Sutherland lets us into his gallery and into surfing’s past

Bill Tolhurst

CENTRAL QLD SURF

What? Yes, seriously. Fun waves where you least expect them

MALDIVES RETURN

A photographic trip through the dream island paradise

MANDUKA MEMORY Robbie Page remembers an experience in Spain

WALLACE 100 BILL We chat to a true

legend and pioneer of Aussie surfing

DIRTY HARRY 104 Covered in foam

dust and loving every minute of it

WAYNE LYNCH 122 One of the most highly

ISLAND BOY Philip Island’s Eli Curry

respected Victorian surfer/shapers ever

manages to weave a heap of surfing into life

TREE CHANGE 129 Bob Carlson shares

137

a bit about Arbor’s environment

THE USUAL BITS THE LATEST

14 Reader Photos 20 News 24 Community

GEAR 99 110 112 119

The Shaper’s Apprentice Like father, like son NEW LOOK - board profiles All about repairs

CLOSEOUT

2012 SURF SHOP SPECIAL A CELEBRATION OF WHERE YOU GET YOUR STUFF!

167 168 169 171 172 176 178

Fashion Test everything Music Columns Directories Relax Aloha Barry

CTX Quad -‐ 5’10, 6’0, 6’2, 6’6 & 6’10

SURFTECH AUSTRALIA

www.surftechaustralia.com.au 02 4226 1322

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LADIES FIRST PHOTO by Hawaiian Swell. Supplied courtesy of Surf Sister

BIG WAVE DREAMING

We’re always up for dedicating these Ladies First pages to strong and confident female role models - girls, ladies, women who stand as shining examples for other surfing girls, and guys out there. That said, we never planned to feature flat out psychos... Until now. Big-wave charger and multiple Billabong XXL Awards finalist Mercedes Maidina chats to Narani Henson about walls of water that would send most tough-guys running for the hills. WORDS: NARANI HENSON, SURF SISTER

Everyone talks of surfing being a life changing experience. How has surfing changed life for you?

Most ladies I know shy away from anything over 6 foot. How did you get into big waves?

What equipment do you use and do you paddle into your waves or use a jetski?

I used to live in a big city, in Buenos Aires. Now I live in a small island, in Hawaii, because of surfing. I left everything I knew until I was 20 years old behind me, and I created the life of my dreams, surfing everyday in paradise. Since I started surfing, my life changed in all kinds of ways. Today I am healthier, happier and more in peace than in the past.

It was a natural progression. As I spent time living in Hawaii and surfing Sunset Beach, I started expanding from 6 to 8 foot, to 10 foot, etc. As I was getting comfortable in those size waves, I pushed myself just a little bit more and tested my limits. I did it slowly, growing my confidence by gaining experience, spending lots of hours in the water, surfing every swell at Sunset and getting used to it. For me it was a desire from my heart - it was all I dreamed about and wanted to do. If it calls you, you just have to follow it.

I paddle most of the time. I had towed in only a handful of times and even though it was fun, it’s just a very different feeling that I get from paddling. I love paddling, it gives that inner sense of accomplishment where it’s just me, the ocean and my board. I have to rely just on myself to choose the wave, to get into it and to be safe in the water. There’s nothing like that feeling of making a big late drop, it’s beautiful. I use boards that go from 5’7’’ for small waves, all the way up to 10’6”

for big Waimea. For big waves I am using now a 10’2’’ FCD gun, with a quad setting,but I also use a lot an 8’3’’ quad for Sunset, a 9’6’’ thruster for different big waves and when I tow I use a 5’9’’ tow board that I got shaped with the help of Darrick Doerner (it’s a little rocket!). You talk about staying super fit to take on the big conditions in the ocean. What’s your fitness regime? Aside from surfing, I do a lot of cardio training out of the water to keep myself strong and fit. To surf big waves you need to be in great shape, because you could run out of

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air and be in trouble. Four times a week I do max, high-interval training that’s very strenuous, but gives me amazing results. I complement the hard training with Yoga two or three times a week. I do Bikram Yoga that helps me stretch and work on my lower back and leg strength to avoid injuries and recover from any pains. Where do you draw your courage from? I can learn something from everybody. I don’t consider myself anything special, I just do what I can. Sometimes I want to really push myself and go for the big sets. Other times I’m intimidated, scared, who knows... I don’t feel that I actually have a lot of courage, which I wish I had! For me it’s more about being in the moment. It isn’t about having courage, but about really wanting the waves. When I really want them, then I go for it. So it’s all inside, I guess. What’s the best wave you’ve paddled into, and biggest? The one I got the morning after the Eddie Aikau contest in Waimea, on December of 2009 was best. It was just beautiful, green, glassy, steep... And I was all by myself in the wave! It was a dream come true. The biggest was at Jaws, on the left. It was a small day for Jaws and I was towing for the first time, just trying it out. A bigger set came out of nowhere and when I was going down the wave I realised it was way bigger than anything I had experienced before. It was about 20 foot Hawaiian, I was told - something like a 35 foot face. Nothing too special in big wave terms, but it was big enough for me! What’s your worst beating? I got some heavy beatings at Waimea during the El Nino season in 2009/2010. I

remember one that I fell on the first wave of a six wave set. It was very west and I was in a deeper position than I wished for. The wave was flat at the bottom, I just lost all my speed and waited for the beating. I got the whole set on the head, never being able to get out of the impact zone. It took everything out of me. But my heaviest situation was this year in March at Sunset Beach. It was 8-10 foot, very west direction. I did the same thing, went too deep and the whole west came to me, so I straightened out. When I fell to the water I got inside of a cave/ ledge at the reef in Boneyards. It took me a while to get rid of my leash that was stuck on the reef. It was really ugly because I wasn’t able to move and reach to my ankle to release the leash. I spent two waves underwater and then got out when I finally reached my ankle and was able to pull from the quick release hook that I had on that leash. It really messed with my confidence. I feel that I had to start all over from zero since that day. I’m still scared at Sunset and I really want to overcome it because I love that wave. Do you surf the small stuff? All the time! I love surfing small waves, if I have the right board! Now I’m obsessed with a 5’7’’ FCD Fark, that is kind of a mixture of a fish with a high performance short board. It is the funnest thing I’ve ever ridden, and I can’t wait for the waves to be clean, 3 foot to go surf it! What are your goals for yourself and your surf coaches goals for you? I don’t have any coaches, I do my surfing journey by myself, setting my own intentions and goals and figuring out how to get there.

Of course I want to paddle into bigger waves, and go deeper and get big barrels and make it out! But really, my goal today is to go back to the fun of surfing. I want to keep improving and growing as a big wave surfer, but I want to do it from another place than I was doing it before. I don’t want to do it in competition with myself or others, I just want to really enjoy it, with no pressures, no should haves. I just want to be connected with myself and God and go from there. SurfSister is a website for female surfers, focused on the rich and inspiring culture of woman’s surfing with the aim of uniting surfing women around Australia and the world by empowering and informing females of all ages whilst promoting women’s surfing, culture and lifestyle. Visit www.surfsister.com.au and sign up to the newsletter to stay in touch. Mercedes thanks: “I want to thank my sponsor Patagonia for supporting me in living my dream of being able to keep improving in my sport. If it wasn’t for them, I wouldn’t have surfed some amazing waves around the world and get to know great people that became good friends. “I want to thank my other sponsors that support me in different ways: FCD Surfboards,Bikram Yoga North Shore studio, Wavetribe, Futures Fins, Go Pro. A special thanks to my favorite man in the world - my husband Gregg Miller. I couldn’t be where I am today if it wasn’t for his support, patience and love to hold me through the hard times.”

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Exit Surf staffer, Morehu Roberts enjoying cold, clean Kaikoura, NZ. Photo by Hawke

A Loud Life t-shirt is coming your way. loudlifeindustries.tumblr.com

sep/oct 2012

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READERSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; PICS sep/oct 2012

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READERS’ PICS Two dudes about to go for a early session out off the reefs at Cronulla. Photo by John Morton.

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Congrats! John scores himself a cool Loud Life t-shirt of his choice. loudlifeindustries.tumblr.com

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READERS’ PICS NATURE OR NURTURE? Twin style from the Grey siblings - brother Zak (20) and sister Zoe (16) at Tasmania’s Marawah Lighthouse Beach. Photos by Patrick Gee.

Enjoy the postcard moments in this tasty Mentawai image Victorian snapper Hayden O’Neill scores himself a copy of the SEWN NZ longboarding movie on DVD

Congrats! Patrick scores himself a cool Loud Life t-shirt of his choice. loudlifeindustries.tumblr.com NEXT EDITION: To be in the running for a deck grip from Hurricane, send your pics to letters@smorgasboarder.com.au

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the storm is brewing traction boardbags luggage legropes and more

NOW AVAILABLE IN AUSTRALIA

www.hurricanEsurf.net HURRICANE SURF team rider, Grant ‘Twiggy’ Baker. Photo: Alan van Gysen

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NEWS THIS IS THE

WHAT’S HAPPENING AROUND OUR SIDE OF THE COAST editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au

Floating Sunglasses

• Polarised • Polarised Bi Focal • Polarised Photochromic • Polarised PC (Melanin infused) • RX Prescription

San n Jua

facebook.com/smorgasboarder

WANDA FRY A FISH?

A GOOD VINTAGE

You heard me right. Wanda Beach in Cronulla will hold its first ever fish fry on Saturday, 22 September. For more details check the website: www.wandafishfry.tumblr.com

Just like a fine wine, he keeps getting better with age. Top craftsman and top bloke, Paul Carson of The Factory Surfboards turns 61 on September 28. All the best for the coming year.

HAPPY FATHER’S DAY: Johnny and Indiana Abegg

WHEN THE SURF’S NOT ON... It appears there was a monumental flat spell around nine months back with so many friends of smorgasboarder welcoming new surfers into the world in the past while. Without doubt, it’s one of life’s best experiences. Congratulations all!. ABEGG YOUR PARDON You heard right. Johnny Abegg and his partner Lizzy on August 22nd had a big healthy boy, Indiana Johnathan Abegg, weighing in at 4.22kg (9.3 pounds).

www.barzoptics.com Showroom - Unit 11 / 4 Leda Drive, Burleigh Heads QLD 4220

Ph 07 5576 4365 20

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twitter.com/smorgasboarder

WELL DONE WATSON On August 23rd Jesse Watson of Black Apache Surfboards and his beautiful wife Kylie welcomed their second little Indian to the tribe: Levi Joseph Watson 3.4kg (7.9 pounds)

GOT NEWS?

IN FINE SHAPE Clayton Beatty of Total Surfing Fitness and his wife recently celebrated the birth of their son Isaac over in WA. The sleep deprivation has begun. Let’s see how Mr. Fitness goes with his early morning exercises now! WELCOME TO THE TRIBE A little while back, Ross McInnes and his wife Natasha had a healthy baby boy, Jack Tristan McInnes. Following in the footsteps of his dad, Jack is probably near 6ft by now. ON THE WAY And whilst we are talking babies, Belinda and Oscar of Peru Aventura are expecting their first child in the first week of November, an early Christmas present. Good luck for the last few weeks! Get in a few cheeky surfs quick, Oscar.

Send it in. Upcoming events, charity happenings, interesting stories, email to: editorial@smorgasboarder.com.au

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Mark Riley (left) and one handsome smorgasboarder

BIG-HEARTED GENTLEMEN Mark Riley donated a board towards a recent fundraiser for the Bravehearts organisation. Bravehearts ambassador Sascha Chandler joined a team of ten people who planned to trek the 96km Kokada Track in 96 hours. They amazingly did it in 84 hours and subsequently raised $37,000 in funds to be committed to child education programs. Bravehearts’ mission is to prevent child sexual assault in society and make Australia the safest place in the world to raise our kids. Cronulla local William ‘Shark Bait’ Fredericks was the highest bidder at auction and picked up this balsa beauty. And he has great taste in t-shirts. For more on the organisation, see www.bravehearts.org.au and for a fix of balsa boards, check out Mark’s site at: www.balsasurfboardsriley.com.au

RETIRE IN STYLE... THE CHALLENGE IS ON AND SCORE YOURSELF Central QLD looney Glen ‘Cat’ has challenged anyone WAYNE LYNCH’S BOARD Collins game enough to take him on in a Surf legend Wayne Lynch just signed up for the Retired Surfers Fraternity. The RSF is the start of a worldwide association of surfers connecting through their love of the ocean and surf travel. New members get an RSF cap, stickers, a t-shirt and an RSF certificate, but will also go into a draw to win one of Wayne’s boards, a classic 6’9” design from his personal quiver. www.retiredsurfersfraternity.com

freak show, recorded in the pages of smorgasboarder Jan/Feb. One ‘freak functional’ to be surfed and one ‘non functional’. For details: dave@smorgasboarder.com.au

ANGOURIE EXHIBITION Riding on the wave of the Centenary of Australian Surfing Photography Exhibition, plans are underway for the next, featuring Angourie! Coordinator Debrah Novak is now calling on submissions. Contact Deb Novak at dnovak@phonestar.net.au

CORRECTION... The superb story on Papua New Guinea in our last issue missed out on crediting three fantastic people: We give great thanks to Susumu Nakano for the text, Maila Kondo for the translation and CHAR for the amazing photos. We loved the story! sep/oct 2012

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LATEST: & GREATEST

SMORGASBOARDER T-SHIRTS, BACK IN STOCK New tees and tanks have arrived. Available in mens and ladies. $30 plus postage from www.smorgasboarder.com.au

WHAT A FLOATER! Barz Optics - Possiby the lightest and most comfortable sunnies you will wear and they float, and not just in still water. Sonic moulded to create air cells in the frame they float in the roughest seas. Available in a range of colours and lenses. From $80

LET IT SLIDE What a cracking idea. We can’t wait to try these babies. Where to start? There is a hinge in the fin that gives you hold when you want it and that awesome slippery sensation of finless surfing when you don’t. www.slidefins.com

IT’S ALL SEWN UP Handmade fin bags (I said ‘fin’) by Shorty. vintagesurfandskateemporium.com.au

THE STORM IS BREWING... Hurricane Surf accessories are now available in Australia. Traction, wax, legropes, great quality bags… So many extras for your surfing. For info, see www.hurricanesurf.net

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OR T-SHIRT + HOME DELIVERY! Package up your tee with a smorgasboarder annual subscription and never risk missing out on a copy again. Delivered to you door for $45 www.smorgasboarder.com.au Better still, as a subscriber you enter the draw for a quiver worth close to $5,000. For more details turn to page 38...

TIEH TA YAO GIN Say what? None of us plan to rub up on some coral but next time you head overseas consider taking some of this antiseptic stuff. Apparently it’s the go for coral cuts recommended by intrepid Indo chargers. $13.95 www.zaksurfboards.com.au

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THE VOYAGE O FROM A GOLD COAST BEACH TO WHO KNOWS WHERE

Jervis Bay Stand Up Paddle

Lessons, Tours, Board Hire www.jervisbaystanduppaddle.com.au

0403 354 716

Byron Sunset Happy Hour! Monday to Friday 4-6pm Half price selected Tapas (Calamari and dips) $5 select beers & house wine, $10 Margaritas

Open every day Breakfast, lunch and dinner. Tapas till late.

Cnr Lawson & Jonson, Byron Bay

02 6680 9666 24

www.balcony.com.au

CONSUMER REMAINS: A small sample of some of the rubbish stretched up and down the beach. Photo: Colin Hutchins.

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LATEST: COMMNUNITY

RUBBISH: WORDS: COLIN HUTCHINS

Amongst Queensland’s premier surf spots is South Stradbroke - a sand island at the northern end of the Gold Coast, that stands alone in terms of undeveloped, natural beauty. Undeveloped, that is, with the obvious exception of a well-placed sand-pumping pipe, which delivers grinding A-frame peaks up and down the beach. As the northern side of a shifting river mouth originally known as Moondarrewa by the local Kombumerri people, Straddie, has become a much loved retreat from everyday life for the new tribe of surfers, bodyboarders, kneeboarders and fishermen who regularly grace her shores. Even before the river mouth was stabilised in 1986, surfers have drifted across these supposedly shark-infested waters, drawn by the allure of the perfect wave. For the most part, Straddie has welcomed all with open arms and barrels. However, in more recent times there has been another - not so welcome - visitor making the trip around the northern wall and onto her shores (and this isn’t a reference to the undeserving, but ever growing number that come by jetski or ferry). No, this visitor is the insidious by-products of our everyday modern life: rubbish. Rubbish is by no means a new problem at Straddie. I remember as far back as a decade and a half ago in the mid 90s, Michael “Munga” Barry leaving a group of local boogers camped on the island with no doubts as to his concerns on the issue. However, it seems in more recent times to have gotten markedly worse. A stroll along the high tide mark northward and even into the treeline reveals the extent of the problem: plastic bottles and lids, drink containers of all description, plastic bags, broken boards and leashes. A similar scene can be found on many other beaches around the country. A large part of the rubbish that ends up at South Stradbroke Island comes out the mouth of the Gold Coast seaway, via the estuary known as the Broadwater. Like many developed estuary systems along the east coast of Australia, heavy rainfall washes

rubbish down drains and rivers and into the estuary. That is not to say that the surfing community is blame-free in the build up of rubbish. Take a short walk up the beach and you’ll soon come across no shortage of deck grip and snapped boards and leashes amid the rest of the trash. Of the rubbish that finds its way to Straddie, it’s the plastics which are of primary concern. Most things made purely of paper and cardboard will biodegrade over time, admittedly leaving behind contaminants from the printing. Plastic, on the other hand, does not biodegrade. It photodegrades, meaning it breaks down into smaller and smaller pieces. The photodegradation of plastics means that plastics stick around in the environment a long time. It’s this longevity which is concerning, because on top of being unsightly on such an otherwise pristine beach, any plastics washed up on Straddie are likely to end up back in the ocean at some point in time. If plastics make it back into the ocean, the slow breakdown process and the longlived nature of plastic rubbish will give it the ability to journey far and wide before finally sinking. Plastics that re-enter the water at Stradbroke will most likely follow the seaway’s outgoing current and once out to sea will tend to drift southward with the East Australian Current. Depending on its buoyancy, it may drift as far south as Tasmania, before eventually turning with the current in a slow arc northward along the west coast of New Zealand. From here it could either continue in a loop back into the East Australian current, potentially finishing in the current vortex in the Tasman Sea or north of New Zealand it could enter into the western arm of the current circling the South Pacific Gyre. This leads directly into the westward wind drift around Antarctica generated by the Roaring Forties. Passing by either the Humboldt Current north along South America or the Cape Horn Current, this rubbish could finish in just about any of the five major ocean gyres in the world.

These ocean gyres, as the centre of any large system of rotating ocean currents are starting to look like garbage dumps with exceptionally high concentrations of pelagic plastics, chemical sludge, and other debris. Plastic is so concentrated in the North Pacific Gyre, often referred to as the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, that plastic now outnumbers plankton 6 to1 (Algalita Marine Research Foundation), meaning that for every plankton there are six pieces of plastic. It is not an exaggeration to say that inside the gyres, plastic has truly taken over the Sea and is having a huge impact on the marine ecosystem.

This plastic debris floating along in the ocean currents is not only unsightly, it is extremely harmful to marine life. At any stage in its long lived voyage it can be eaten by marine organism such as birds, fish, and turtles because of its close resemblance to food. For example, sea turtles will often confuse floating plastic bags for their favourite food, jellyfish. Plastics are also leading to a decline in oceanic birds such as the Albatross, that graceful bird we often seen skimming across the face of a moving swell. Albatross chicks on the most remote islands in the world are dying from starvation because their parents are feeding them all sorts of plastics such as lighters and bottle tops. A fledgling Laysan albatross cut open by Cynthia Vanderlip, manager of the State of Hawaii’s Kure Atoll Wildlife Sanctuary revealed more than half a pound of plastic in its stomach. The breakdown of plastics continues to such a degree that even plankton end up consuming it, as it slowly sinks to the

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The five major oceanic gyres Photo: USNOAA

E OF

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Remains of Laysan Albatross chick with clear examples of ingested plastic flotsam. Photo: USGS

AU STR ALI A

bottom. This is a problem because plankton forms the basis of the marine food web. This is made even more concerning due to the nasty characteristic of plastics of attracting other chemical pollutants to its surfaces. So when animals ingest the plastic, the chemicals attached to the plastics enter the animal’s tissues and bio-accumulate. These accumulated chemicals are then passed on to any other organisms that eat it, eventually ending up on our plates at super-concentrations.

THIS IS BUT A GLIMPSE AT THE REAL EXTENT OF THE PROBLEM OF PLASTICS IN OUR OCEANS.

Some estimates say that even if the whole world stopped using plastic today, it would take three generations for it to stop washing up on our beaches. So what can be done about it? Luckily the first step is simple. Don’t let plastics or any other rubbish, get back in the water in the first place. This is why cleaning up South Stradbroke and all other beaches with even one piece of rubbish on it, is so important. The more isolated the beach the less straightforward this may be. At Straddie for example, this may mean paddling across with an old bag, or a plastic bag stuffed up your wetty, to bring rubbish back in. If you are willing to pay money to surf and decide to catch the ferry, then it’s that much easier to bring the rubbish back. If even a few of the hundreds of people that surf at this much loved Island or any other beach up and down the coast of Australia each day did this, the problem of rubbish on our beaches would be quickly solved. Whilst a good first step, obviously cleaning up beach rubbish alone is not going to solve the problem of plastics in our oceans. To do that, we have to stop it before makes it to the ocean. We have to work back to the source, and start questioning the necessity of our use of plastics and particularly single-use plastics. Single use plastics are products like plastic bags, cups, straws, plastic bottles etc. that are used once for only brief periods of time, often mere seconds, and then thrown away to end up in our oceans. If we, as users of the ocean who love and benefit from it each and every day, don’t stand up and start decreasing our use of these plastics which are killing and contaminating the life in our oceans - and eventually us - why will others, who have no connection to the ocean, do so? While the size of the problem is overwhelming, the solution starts with one little action. Where we see rubbish, pick it up. We can all take a leaf out of Occy’s book when he said “every time I see a piece of rubbish in the ocean I put it in my wetsuit and every time I see rubbish on the beach I pick it up” (quote from The rise fall and rise of Mark Occhilupo). It really is as easy as that. 26

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LATEST: HEROES ABOVE: Robert Dawson-Goodey, Ellen Margaret-Parry and Woody Jackson on the winners podium. INSERT: Competent competitor Marc Staddon losing a wave in a spectacular style.

Driving wind and mushy surf made for ideal crap surfing conditions at the third World Championship of Crap Surfing. While many surf contests are held in exotic locations blessed with glorious sun, the scores of novice wave paddlers who braved the elements and took to the choppy seas at Praa Sands were clearly in a league of their own. The competition was stiff, as anticipated, with one contestant having never held a surfboard until the event. Reports that this is the same entrant who initially tried to mount her board upsidedown are yet to be confirmed. Organiser and poet Murray LachlanYoung said: “The idea of a world championships for bad surfers was hatched when, after years of practising, I realised I was still a

THE ARMPITS OF VICTORY NIGEL PENGELLY REPORTS ON THE ACTION FROM THE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP OF CRAP SURFING 2012

With the podiums set, it was time to announce the winners of the 2012 World Championship of Crap Surfing to the large, eager crowd.

terrible surfer. Being a bad surfer meant that I missed out on the thrill of the surf championship. Thus was born Crapsurfer - a fun, international movement for surfers of all abilities to express their love of surfing, in a relaxed and non-elitist, social network.” A panel of judges that included a t-shirt designer, a model, a surf magazine editor and a local goat herdsman awarded contestants marks for effort, missing waves and accidentally doing something good. Rick Worthy, of Port Eliot Festival, compered the event in his own lively inimitable style adding to the amusement for the crowd of more than 150 spectators. After the preliminary heats and semi-finals, five diehard contestants took to the water for the final.

By now the tide was close to the shore and a stronger surf saw many contestants bobbing around in the shore break unable to get beyond the breaks. One contestant retired early as she was tired and wanted a hot chocolate, while another surfer was disqualified when he effortlessly got up on his board and surfed to the shore; judges had decided that he was too good to be worthy of a place in the final.

Robert Dawson-Goodey, from London, was crowned World Crap Surfing Champion 2012, while Ellen Margaret-Parry, also from London, was crowned the Queen of Crap Surfing. Woody Jackson, of Penzance, won the junior section. Speaking after his jubilant win, Robert Dawson-Goodey said: “I am delighted, I thought I was rubbish at surfing and now it’s official. Lack of hard work, un-preparation and a few the night before really helped me win this event. “It’s been amazing, the fame hit straight away I was signing autographs and posing for pictures, people seem to know that I am kind of a big deal.” sep/oct 2012

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NEAL THE MANY FORMS OF

He’s a mad scientist - a true creator of the weird and wonderful. He lives in a bus in a vacant lot, amongst derelict buildings on the outskirts of Maroubra. The ladies seem to like him. He invents. He builds. He deconstructs and repurposes. He’s insightful, interesting and downright funny. And - considering his particular niche in the surfing family - he has the perfect name: Neal. So who exactly is he? Join us on a sci-fi surf of discovery into the world of Neal Cameron. WORDS: DAVE SWAN

Racecar body “I believe it held the record for sports cars at Amaroo Park Raceway”

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LATEST: INTERVIEW

AMERON NEAL CAMERON IS A KNEEBOARDER POSSIBLY THE PUREST FORM OF A TRUE SOUL SURFER. There are virtually no comps for kneelos. They surf simply for the sheer enjoyment of surfing. Furthermore, kneeboard shapers are arguably the most progressive in the game, and have maintained the free-thinking, progressive edge since the surfing movement began. (On a sideline, have you ever noticed how kneelo’s names are Neil or Neal? It’s uncanny. Neal Cameron, Neil Luke...Ok that’s only two, but how many stand up surfers do you know called Stan?)

THE EARLY DAYS Neal grew up in the housing commissions in Maroubra and pretty much spent his whole life in this inner-city seaside suburb of Sydney. There were no Bra Boys back then. Neal and his mates were long before them. It was the time of the Summer Shed Crew. They were the cool of the day and were always doing radical things. Maroubra back then had one of the strongest kneeboarding communities in Australia. There were close to some 300 local members. It was on a par with other strong kneelo communities such as Wollongong, Cronulla, Phillip Island and Narrabeen. The Northern Beaches might have had guys like Steve Artis and Peter Crawford and Cronulla the likes of Ross Bullard but Maroubra had Peter Berry, Albert Whiteman, Dave Parkes, Chris Swinbanks, John O’Neil and a host of other equally talented or crazy individuals. Neal too was part of the scene. He described to me how he first got into kneeboarding. “Well basically I couldn’t stand up for sh#t, so I started kneeboarding. Everyone was amazed by George Greenough’s ability, so I got a spoon.

Photo: Adam Watson Parsell (fb-adam parsell)

“Kneeboarding was huge back then. I think for a lot of people it was seen as an sep/oct 2012

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CAMERON

LATEST: INTERVIEW

WORTHY USES OF FIBREGLASS: Nealâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s amazing costume creations made from the same stuff as wrapped around our boards - have won him international acclaim. Photo: Adam Watson Parsell (fb-adam parsell)

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CAMERON

easy option. It was more accepted and there didn’t appear to be the same stigma as today, although times are changing.

EARLY SURFING INFLUENCE

“In most boardriding contests there was a kneeboarding section. The kneeboarders were put in before the women. The women were the ones who were shafted, pushed down into a novelty event and sent out when the waves were crap. Fortunately that has changed.

To all and sundry on the local surf scene, Peter Berry was a local icon, particularly when the swell was big. People would stand on the beaches watching these huge waves roll in and someone would say, ‘has anyone seen Peter Berry today?’ It was guaranteed he would be going out somewhere. Peter used to get huge crowds watching him surf either big North Maroubra or Lurline Bay. He was one of only a few crazy enough to go out in conditions like that.

“ By comparison,competitions nowadays have pretty much ceased to exist, but kneeboarders have lived on for the pure enjoyment of the ride.”

Before they met Neal recalled Peter standing there at North Maroubra one day, looking at his watch and studying the surf. “Pete would walk down to the front of the point where nobody in their right mind would jump off when it was over six foot. He’d just jump off and paddle out between sets. He was timing the sets. He had it all worked out. You have to realise though, in those days there was no one to come and get you if you screwed up. You were on your own. No legropes or helicopter rescue back then. Peter got thumped bigtime at the Coogee Bombie one day. Many recall it. Pete took off with a board, wetsuit, booties and flippers and came up with only his wetsuit partially on and the board off in the rip to Wedding Cake Island. He said it was one of the biggest wipeouts he ever had and was most annoyed that his mate had not caught it on the camera pete had set up.

“WELL BASICALLY I COULDN’T STAND UP FOR SH#T, SO I STARTED KNEEBOARDING. EVERYONE WAS AMAZED BY GEORGE GREENOUGH’S ABILITY, SO I GOT A SPOON.”

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“Pete really was a leader in the field at the time. He was just doing different stuff. He was going faster than anybody else, further down the line and riding boards that would do it. We ended up becoming great mates. He took me surfing and tried to get me into the big wave thing but I was never comfortable. I used to go out and think, ‘Well if I jump when he jumps, I will be right.’ It was terrifying though. I enjoyed it but I never had that fearless attitude. I liked good solid waves, but not the radical places he liked to surf - in front of cliff faces and taking off as far back as possible. I seemed to have a habit of simultaneously running out of water and surfing skills, and I was known on a first name basis at the emergency ward.”

Neal didn’t really plan to do anything after school except odd jobs to make enough money to go surfing. He regularly hung out with Peter and watched him shape. After standing in the ‘itch pit’, holding on to the nose of a surfboard while Peter sanded it, getting covered in the dust, time and time again, Neal eventually tried his hand at shaping. He was about fifteen at the time. “It was hilarious. Pete was a great shaper but he couldn’t shape sober. That’s why he never shaped in the morning; it would always be in the afternoon after a couple of beers. He had a little area at the back of his house we called the ‘Pig Pen’ that was full of foam. “He used to shape out in the sunlight - no shaping lights. He would drink a couple of long necks and put on a Frank Zappa record. I think he had twenty-six Frank Zappa albums and one of those record players that could stack them on top of each other, twelve at a time. I nearly went mad... You need Van Gogh’s ear for music to listen to that much FZ in a sitting. That was it: beer, Zappa and radical surfboards on sunny afternoons.” Pete’s glassing shed was a 12x12 box that was in fact an old site shed from the construction of the Sydney Opera House. “He had so much crap in there you couldn’t walk around the board, but he could still do these amazing glass jobs.” Ten years went on with Neal helping Pete out at the Pig Pen. The time spent together had a profound effect on how Neal thought from that point on. Pete made him realise it was okay to think outside the box.

THE START OF THE REST OF IT ALL “I didn’t have a real job until I was about 28, when I started working in a surf shop. I worked for Wayne Butcher in Coogee and eventually ended up with two shops of my own along with a surfboard repair business in Botany. It was called Positive Connection Fibreglass Repairs. I was fixing about 80 boards a week and running the shops. We did board repairs for the entire Eastern Suburbs. The factory itself was initially owned by BJ Surfboards, then Richard Evans of Heat Wave. Alongside Richard and I were guys like Steve Wilson, Greg Webber and Rob Hayzer - all waiting for a turn in the shaping bays. It was a busy place. “From there I ended up getting into promotions. One day there was a big surf club competition at Coogee and I wanted to advertise the shop. I got some handbills done up and Karen, one of the girls from the shop said, ‘I’ll put my roller skates on and hand them out.’ “She was joined by Helen who was a model at Vivien’s and they both put on some skimpy outfits and handed out all these leaflets. By two o’clock we couldn’t get anyone else in the shop. It was out of control. It was 1986, I think.” Within six months Neal and the girls had their own little thing going. There were six girls employed every week with eighteen on the books and a chapter in Newcastle. They called themselves Promo Skate and did work for

THE PROMO SKATE GIRLS: Advertising with a twist like you could only have in the ‘80s.

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Photo: Adam Watson Parsell (fb-adam parsell)

without blowing myself up in the process. “When carbon fibre first became available, I got a job building a prototype for a production car, which never came out. They ran out of money, but it did get to quite an advanced stage. I learnt a lot on that job. “What really grabbed me though was this fantastic black stuff and I wondered what else I could make out of it. I just thought carbon fibre was incredibly cool, even the way it caught the light was awesome. I didn’t know much about what I was doing so I just winged it. “I started making a heap of things out of it. I plasticised a few resins and made some belts and wallets and then a bikini, corsets, an evening gown and all sorts of strange things.

everyone from the corner store to television and radio stations. Neal laughs when he recalls how one of the girls (Joanne) was nicknamed ‘Jesus’ by the other girls. She apparently got the name after the countless number of times admiring males would go ‘Jesus!’ Look at that! when she skated on by. “I later fell into security but that is another story… a long story that one. Lot’s of interesting stuff happened there. It was just one of those things - right place, right time, or wrong time you could say. “We ended up doing all the major golf tournaments in Sydney and Canberra, the City to Surf fun runs, all Fairfax’s external stuff and we looked after celebrities including Bob Hawke when he was Prime Minister. We had a great gig where we used to walk around with him as he played golf on his own after parliament. “We worked in the Cross when the whole Underbelly thing was going on. If the general public were told the full story in the TV show of what went on they would not have believed it. They would have thought it was total fiction. At the time it just appeared to be the way it was... Wild times.”

DISCOVERIES & INVENTIONS All the while this fun and frivolity was going on, Neal and Peter attended various tech courses. Peter was into the chemistry side of things, keen to understand the ins and outs of it all, whilst Neal on the other hand didn’t care much for any of the background, just what it did. “I don’t care how much of this equals that. I am not into maths. Just tell me what it does and I will make it work. I just mess around with different materials. Mix things that shouldn’t be mixed together and through the years have come up with different stuff that worked ‘90s sculptures, part of the gig

“I went down to Nuplex Resins who supplied the materials and took down a range of the carbon fibre products I had made and showed the head chemist. He said, ‘I have absolutely no idea how these have been done.’ I said, ‘Oh, that’s interesting because they are all your materials.’ “One gown I made, which I worked on with another designer, is now in the Swarovski Crystal Museum. It has 35,000 crystals on it. It is funny how a little plaything grows into something you didn’t expect.” Neal has this innate sense of how to create anything. He would fiddle with things to make them work because he could never afford to buy them. He would scrounge old wetsuits and take them in because he was skinny. He would even make booties out of the leftovers. This impromptu tailoring later led to his next discovery – the wetshirt or rashie, as it is known. “One day I decided getting sunburnt was not cool so I made a full lycra bodysuit. A lady I knew who used to cut for Seafolly in Surry Hills helped me make it. “I realised most surfers wouldn’t be seen dead in a full length suit like mine but they would wear something that looked like a wetsuit vest, so we did some like that. Adam Watson (a good mate and top notch photographer) was a rep for Oakley sunglasses. He really liked them and said he would rep them up and down the coast.

Within about twelve months we had lycra shirts, singlets, swimsuits and steamers. We went to the Australian Cancer Council and they thought they were a wonderful idea and said they would give us a recommendation. I tried to get a patent on it but with no success. A rep for one of the majors came and ordered one of everything in the range. The rest is history. I had so much else going on at the time it didn’t really worry me. “My biggest problem is, I’m not motivated by making money. I like thinking of stuff and doing it. When it comes to money, as a friend of mine once said, ‘getting your attention is like herding cats.’ I just can’t get my head around it. I like to just play.” And play he did, all the while keeping his hand in the surfboard game, fixing dings and making customs for himself and any customers who were after something a little different. But the customs were limited. Twenty years ago not too many were really interested in anything other than mainstream standard. So Neal spent time pushing the boundaries in other fields - radical motorbikes, racecars, props for drag shows and even in-store sculptures for Mambo. “That came about because I used to sell all these odd tshirts in my surf shops. It initially started through a guy called Brad Ladkin, who used to make Honey Surfboard Wax and Strawberry Fields. As I recall Brad worked for a company called Phantom Screens and they made these Phantom t-shirts I sold. Anyhow , Brad came into my surf shop at Coogee with these stupid looking singlets with a bloke with a bone through his nose saying 100% Mambo. “He asked me if I could give these a go. I didn’t think they would sell, but I took some. By the end of the weekend we had sold a pack of 10 and ordered some more. Away went Mambo as a great seller and years later I ended up making all their fibreglass point of sale products. It was always fun glassing all these weird sculptures. “I also dabbled with dune buggies because I wanted a car I could tow behind the bus that was equally good on the sand.” sep/oct 2012

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LATEST: INTERVIEW

“What? Scarier than some weirdo living in a bus out here? (we both laugh) It was the same with the Rifle Range; I used to get asked the same question. ‘Isn’t it scary up here?’ I always figured anyone up here at night was either really enlightened or a total lunatic. It made it easy to distinguish. I was either in for a great conversation or I’d be looking for something to defend myself with. “I did have to kick out a couple of kids from here recently and they called up six of their mates and were stoning me from behind the gate.

“I HAVEN’T SEEN KIDS THROW ROCKS FOR TWENTY YEARS. I WAS IMPRESSED.”

NOTHING ELSE MATTERS: Getting waves on anything and everything that floats.

THE BUS… That leads me to Neal’s bus. It has been his home 10 years now. He started work on it with a guy by the name of Jed Done – the same Jed Done that smorgasboarder readers would be familiar with as the master behind Bushrat Surfboards. Neal met Jed whilst working with him at his surfboard repairs factory. Jed was working on a new line of budget surfboards with Neal. Jed became skilled at mowing foam and starting to make his own boards on the side. That was some twelve years back. “We cut the roof of the bus and lifted it all up. Jed’s carpentry skills came in handy. I am actually a carpenter by trade too, but if you saw what I do with wood you would understand why I don’t touch it. I never understood the measure twice, cut once thing… When you root it up you can’t glue it back on. If I can’t glue it, I can’t work with it.” Neal even made the walls, the shower recess, the tiles, his bath shaped like a lounge chair... you name it. Don’t you hate that? “The bus is the ultimate boy’s surf wagon. It’s all solar powered. The stereo, exhaust fans, lights, fridge, power tools can be powered all day. The bus itself runs on cleaned vegetable oil. I put dirty cooking oil 36

through a centrifuge mounted on an old beer keg with a heater and spin all the water and contaminants out of it and it goes great. “I still haven’t gotten around to going anywhere substantial in it yet though, apart from up to Noosa or down to Victoria. I want to go across the desert... one day. “I had it parked on the Rifle Range at South Maroubra initially. I was there for about two years. It is leased by the NSW Rifle Assoc. and you used to be able to rent space there. I was paying $60 a week and living on the 600metre mark of the target range. Once the Labor government got in they changed all that.

“I had my mobile shaping bay there, some cars, a couple of buggies. There were foxes and rabbits up there… horses. It was unreal but very corrosive. Everything just rusted. That was the downside of it. “From there I moved down towards the airport. I had the flight traffic either side. You would have to stop talking every couple of minutes. It was a bit like that scene in the Blues Brothers where the train goes by the window repeatedly. “Then I stumbled upon here. It’s interesting, because it looks like a warzone - a bit like Beirut. I‘ve been here two years now. “The building behind me is nine stories high and goes two stories underground. It used to house all the RTA (Road Transport Authority) records. Hundreds of people used to work there on the old microfiche data. The information that building housed could now be contained on the hard drive of a laptop and operated by one person. Unbelievable. It is probably some fifteen years since it was abandoned and yes it did attract a number of squatters.” I must admit when I first met Neal, the place honestly scared the crap out of me. I asked him if it wasn’t a little scary living there.

“I haven’t seen kids throw rocks for twenty years. (laughs) I was impressed. The kids today are all too busy playing video games. It was good to see them show some initiative, some spirit. Throw some rocks at the old bloke in the bus why don’t you. Today though is nowhere near as rough as it was when we were kids.”

THE BRA BOYS In the 90s, the Sydney suburb of Maroubra gained notoriety for the so-called ‘surf gang’ the Bra Boys, becoming known for reported violent clashes with the public and police. The Bra Boys achieved national and international attention in 2007 with the release of a feature-length documentary about their life and times. Neal gave us his perspective on the boys. “Everyone thinks they’re ‘bad boys’ and ‘no hopers’ ...and I’ve been accused of that too. Every box of fruit can contain a rotter. I’d been fixing their surfboards since they were old enough to stand on them. Most have gone on to do great things: the Abbertons do their thing; Marky Matthews is surfing the biggest waves on the planet with Richie (‘Vas’ Vaculik); Richie’s also a great cage fighter these days; Frog is on the world tour and doing security... There are musicians, stuntmen, cameramen and pro lifeguards among them, and a plethora of carpet layers. They’re all doing their thing. Sometimes the media and local law like to paint them into something altogether different. There’s a saying around the cafés at the Bra.. “Is that the truth, or did you read it in the Telegraph?”

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Photo: Adam Watson Parsell (fb-adam parsell)

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“When I was a young lad going to the pub I thought. Why go for the beer-tap girls when there’s many classier examples on the top shelf where no-one’s trying to reach? They’re much more intoxicating, and the hangover is generally not as bad. “I’m friends with Rachel James who is a former Penthouse Pet and was working on the TV show Blokesworld. In one episode (I was called ‘the carbon fiber bloke’) I was asked to show how we make our costumes. They’re made off body molds, of course - girls in big tubs, smeared in dental alginate. Oh yes... We have loads of fun in the bus trailer.”

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PETER BERRY MOUNTAIN DEW KNEEBOARDS With a guy like Neal Cameron there are so many stories to tell but a piece like this wouldn’t be complete without talking with the man who had such a strong influence on him. I asked Pete about Neal, their friendship and his take on surfboard design. “We are both mad scientists. I try and work out the chemistry and he just goes for it. With regards to shaping, I never developed my boards. I just took radical steps. Neal developed them. “I was keen on negative rocker in particular. I was reading a book on boating once and realised it is in fact called ‘hook’. Rocker goes up. Hook goes down. “With negative rocker, the only place it fits is on an unbroken wave. It doesn’t want to stay there, it wants to get out and the acceleration, as such, is unbelievable. “I have watched stand up riders: they drop in and do a big bottom turn, go up and hit the lip and do the big rollercoaster thing to hit their peak speed. With negative rocker in my boards, I used to snap it off the top on an angle and would be hitting peak speed by the time I hit the bottom.”

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Pete used to surf a wave at O’Hara Head down near Kioloa, in between Ulladulla and Batemans Bay, and captured the surf on an old 16mm film. “What you had to do there, halfway through the wave, was to ride the back of it and surf the back of the wave, because down the bottom there were rocks sticking out of the water. Once past, you would come back down the face. The speed I got from my boards enabled me to do that. “My boards also often featured textured bottoms to create tubular flow, rather than laminar flow. I like this because you don’t carry water. The water rolls off the bottom creating an air cushion, as opposed to laminar flow, where water is a series of plates sliding on each other. With tubular flow you feel the board break away from the water.” Neal was a fan of Peter’s shaping. The Chimera series in particular was what he liked best. It featured this negative rocker, or reverse curve, as it was sometimes called. “Peter’s first one was quite extreme. The vees and concaves were really pronounced and I just softened them a bit for myself and they

4/09/12 9:10 PM

THE MOREY BOOGIE BODYBOARD As the story is told, Pete received the first ever Morey Boogie in Australia via the post in 1973. He had to go down to the local hardware store to buy contact adhesive to put it all together. It came complete with the block of foam, skins and a handwritten instruction from Tom Morey himself on its assembly. Pete glued it all up and then went and surfed South Maroubra. It was the first bodyboard ridden in Australia. He thought it was awesome and subsequently wrote Tom Morey telling him how fantastic it was. ABOVE: The original Morey Boogie and instructions, along with cat damage. LEFT: Peter and Neal - mad professors

“EVERYONE HAS TO CROSSFERTILISE, CROSSPOLLINATE. THAT’S HOW WE MOVE FORWARD.” evolved from that. The plan shape and the rocker are pretty much identical though.” Pete’s creative thinking fuelled Neal’s and vice versa. There was always a willingness to share and feed off one another. “I have always said you have to talk to people about design and get them thinking in different ways. Everyone has to cross-fertilise, cross-pollinate. That’s how we move forward. I never understood this ‘secret society stuff’ where people wouldn’t share their ideas.” It was such a great pleasure to listen in on old stories they told together and hear their perspectives on surfboard design. And just like Neal, I had to laugh because Peter too had his own funny tale of missed opportunity…

Apparently Tom wrote back asking Pete if he was interested in the distribution rights for Australasia. “I didn’t think anyone would pay $38 for a piece of foam. I think surfboards at the time were $80. It was expensive by comparison, particularly when you didn’t have someone to show off all the tricks that you can do on them like they do today.

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“The other problem was I thought I would have to sell them at $50 just to break even. The next guy who came along took up the distribution rights, sold them at $60 and couldn’t keep up with production. The rest is history. That was just before Christmas in 1975 I think.” I asked Pete if he still had the original. Both he and Neal laughed... “Yeah, but it’s not in too good a shape. The cat uses it as a scratching post.” With the advent of the Morey Boogie, kneeboards went out of fashion and boogieboards took over the world. But as far as Pete and Neal are concerned, they simply continue on doing their own thing, regardless, just as they always have done.

38 years on, surfers still surf and Southern Man Surf still stands strong as Ulladulla’s original and best surf shop. For personal service and a great range of fashion and accessories, surfboards, skateboards, bodyboards and much more, visit Southern Man Surf shop in Ulladulla on your next surf trip.

CALL US: (02) 4454 0343 T7/119 Princes Hwy, Ulladulla The Woolworths Centre Ulladulla NSW 2539

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LATEST: COMMUNITY FREESTYLE&STOKE: Eden Saul works an old mal. Photo: Kuni Takanami

WE ARE A TRIBE BYRON BAY SURF FESTIVAL 2012 We are a tribe. A tangible bond connects us across oceans, landmasses, classes and generations and, though differences arise, our feet remain firmly bound to the lapping shore. WORDS: TOMMY LEITCH FROM LEFT: Scenes from 2011: Neal Purchase Jr., Haldanes Daughters; Sage Joske of Valla Surfboards at the Surf SwapMeet; sweet style at Freestyle&Stoke. Photos: Kuni Takanami

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We have immersed ourselves in a culture that is unlike any other. Golfers, for all their tenacity, in rain and cold leave their clubs and spikes in the garage. Fishermen will spend monotonous hours vacantly transfixed on a small patch of water, but they don’t make their own rods, watch a library of fishing films or toe-tap to fishing tunes. And cyclists, while justified in their nauseating attire mid-ride, wouldn’t be seen dead strutting their Lycraclad posteriors through their local watering hole. But surfers are different. We saturate ourselves with the culture, the paraphernalia, the apparel; we make surfing feature somehow in every single aspect of our lives. Northern New South Wales has always been a hub of surfing activity. Most Australian surfers are well aware of its inextricable connection to the shortboard revolution and the Morning Of The Earth era. Surfing’s latter day incarnation is one more of retrospection. We are no longer driving for advancement, evolution or development. There is definitely a cutting edge, but many are looking back, revisiting past creations and enhancing them with modern knowledge. So it seems the most natural progression that surfing events should also undertake an allencompassing re-evaluation. We are artists, musicians, creators. We are a family, a community. The world looks different through our eyes, and what makes us surfers doesn’t dissipate when we leave the briny. The Byron Bay Surf Festival embraces this theology and has created a celebration of surfing. There are no coloured rash shirts, heat sirens or interference calls. No judges, no divisions, and the greatest impetus lies on dry land. Two years ago, three Byron Shire locals, James McMillan, Vanessa Thompson and Mike Jahn decided that an area of such profound surfing heritage should hold a festival that recognises not the talents of surfing’s higher-most echelons but the life that we have chosen to lead as devout worshippers of the trim. Few places can boast to be the

spawning ground of both a world longboard and (if you’ll be a little liberal in your geography) a world shortboard champion in Beau Young and Mick Fanning respectively. The Shire itself is home to a swathe of surfing glitterati: Dave Rastovich, Danny Wills, Kieren Perrow, Rusty Miller, Jim Banks and Bob McTavish just for openers. But it is a place also of much creativity. Artists that fall into the clichéd genre of surfer-muso, such as Ash Grunwald and Xavier Rudd are also Shire residents, filmmakers Andrew Kidman, Mick Waters and Californian expat, Taylor Steele have laid roots in the region. All around, talented individuals create art, music, design and fashion undeniably influenced by ocean culture. “If you look at the original surfers in California and Hawaii,” suggests Bob McTavish, “they always had ukuleles and such, and we did too. We used to have fires down the beach and bongo drums and sit around singing and carrying on like idiots! “We used to do all our own art on our boards, from way back in the ‘50s. It’s just blossoming now it’s wonderful.” The Byron Bay Surf Festival’s founding trio decided that what was really needed of a surf festival to make this blossoming movement thrive. And so, casting prejudice and preferences into the bin, they drew together our world - the artists, the musicians, the shapers, the timber advocates, the ‘retro’ hippies and the shortboarders, the uninitiated youngsters and the oldsters who “remember the days”. This wasn’t a surf competition, nor even a surf festival - it had become a cultural celebration. The community featured strongly in their development of the festival. Like the long-reaching deep-sea currents that draw swell to our shores, an underlying connection to the ocean flowed through the celebrations, but it was far from a ‘surfers only’ affair. Expanding like ripples inland from the shoreline, cafes hosted art exhibitions, the local community centre a diversity of film screenings, the youth centre drew the grommets for the inaugural stART Me Up junior art show and competition, while at other venues,

“WE ARE ARTISTS, MUSICIANS, CREATORS. WE ARE A FAMILY, A COMMUNITY. “ LEFT: Bob McTavish gives a shaping demonstration at the 2011 festival.

a miscellany of educational talks were given on the yogic benefits to surfing, construction of timber boards, freediving and breath control. New life had been breathed into the ‘surf festival’, removed from contest-heavy commercialism. “The general, overwhelming culture of the district has been soul-surfing,” reflected Bob McTavish. “Forget about competition, it’s been much more about free expression. Community acceptance flourished. Venues have coordinated their music lineups with the event’s long weekend of activity; galleries have invited artists to exhibit based on their propensities for the ocean and surf culture; and retail and culinary businesses have themed offers and menu specials to suit the festivities. The local Byron Bay Brewing Company has joined forces with the festival, providing not only that most essential of beverages over which to discuss past yarns but also an exceptional venue. And it is here, a crow-flown kilometre from the beach that, if anywhere, it can be said the festival’s heart will lie. Rabbit Bartholomew will go têtea-tête with Bob McTavish - the forefather of professionalism and the foam-dust-engrained soul surfer - to open the weekend’s happenings. What ensues is a melange of art, performance, history, creativity – talks given by Tim Baker, Tom Wegener, and Tim Edwards, workshops of art, recycling, surf fitness, even first aid. Cinematic offerings include the Surf Shorts film competition and the premiere of Taylor Steele’s odyssey of a film - This Time Tomorrow. And this is before so much as a single little piggy is plunged into sand.

There is an underlying message to the festival that isn’t thrust to the fore, but is a key component in the event’s development, and that is one of ecology. To build a future in the water, surfers must unite to develop a conscious awareness of their environment’s protection, for without clean beaches, unpolluted oceans and abundant marine life, gone are many of the pleasures for which surfers paddle out. Subliminally, this filters through the festival, a beach cleanup here, a recycled detritus art installation there, a raffle, a talk, these bare the message but with delicacy and sensitivity, motivation towards instigation. In our hands we hold the future we wish for, and we wish for our children. Compassion, no prejudice, a clean, safe environment, creation over destruction and a healthy, positive life... Surfing exquisitely embodies these philosophies and the Byron Bay Surf Festival is the quintessential realisation of them. As Tom Wegener concisely concluded of last year’s event, “For the next generation, surfing will be about living and embracing the lifestyle, with all the joy and freedom it has to offer.”

EVENT DETAILS The 2012 Byron Bay Surf Festival takes place on the weekend of the 26 - 28 October. For further information on the event, visit www.byronbaysurffestival.com. For accommodation options in Byron Bay, see the surf trip accommodation directory, page 172.

A surf swap-meet, a tandem workshop and display and an ‘all boards’ expression session feature as part of the surfing-related affairs, held at Watego’s Beach on the final day of the fiesta. sep/oct 2012

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LATEST: COMMUNITY

SOMETHINGâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S BREWING BYRON BAY+SURFING+BEER=ONE FINE IDEA Part of our quest, under the guise of investigative journalism for smorgasboarder, has been to unearth fantastic, locally brewed beers. What a bonus to find exactly that, with a surfing twist, in surf-ville. WORDS & PHOTOS: DAVE SWAN

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LEFT: Owner, Barry Schadel and head brewer, Stuart Richie of the Byron Bay Brewing Co. ABOVE: Brewin’ ain’t easy, but it sure is fun. RIGHT: Sipping a locallybrewed ale, looking at classic boards that line the walls... Sounds like a pretty good end-of-day event to us. Photos: Dave Swan

Now there is nothing that goes down better after a surf than a cold ale. So, with the Byron Bay Surf Festival just around the corner, we talked barrels and brews with two of the guys behind The Byron Bay Brewing Co. - owner Barry Schadel and head brewer Stuart Richie. For Barry, the brewery and its recent refurbishment - featuring retro longboards from the 60s and 70s, surf memorabilia and a big screen tv playing endless surf and skate movies is a chance to revisit his past. Nearly thirty years ago he owned a surf shop on the Central Coast of NSW at Long Jetty called Surfers Choice. It’s still there today. Barry later moved to the surfing Mecca that is Byron. He explained his early

surfing days, “Although I was born in the country, when I was seventeen I was heading to the coast and surfing every day, mainly at beaches such as Wamberal, North Avoca and the NSW South Coast. In the early ‘70s surfing was all about Byron Bay, the surf capital of Australia, so my wife and I moved here in ’74 and started our family.”

excited about a forty knot onshore because that meant we would get waves. It was almost the only way we would get surf down there. The problem was, it was bloody freezing. Fourteen degrees water temp in summer was warm. In winter, if you had any skin exposed it was so cold it would feel like it was burning.”

The lure of Byron was just as strong for Stuart. Having grown up in Burnie and surfing the wild north-west coast of Tasmania, Byron presented the chance to surf without donning a wetsuit as well as an opportunity to pursue his passion for crafting fine beers. Stuart laughs as he recalls where he grew up surfing, “We were on the wrong side of Bass Strait. We would get really

In terms of the brewery itself, it all started when Barry discovered the local beer Byron Bay Premium Ale eight years ago. At the time, it was brewed by Blue Tongue Brewery in the Hunter Valley. “We wanted to start our own micro brewery and we came across this building which was the old piggery. In the early ‘80s it was a rock venue. We spent some $2.5 million on building renovations sep/oct 2012

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and a further $1.1 million on the brewery itself, which was built in Canada. We now craft seven different beers here.” Stuart explains the focus of their efforts on producing quality beers through an extended brewing process - an approach that has resulted in the brewery win medals over the last few years.

“WE DON’T RUSH THE BREWING PROCESS AND THAT MAKES A DIFFERENCE.” “I’m not knocking mainstream breweries, but the market pressures they face result in a massive difference in the overall brewing time.” From what we understand, some mainstream breweries can have the beer on the back of the truck being shipped interstate in seven days from when it was first knocked out. “Our pressures are not time, but quality. For example, when we are separating grain from liquid, it doesn’t run until it is crystal clear. I don’t say, ‘I‘ve been half an hour so just run with it.’ It has to be a spot on and the end product is a reflection of this attention to detail.” There are no shortcuts in Stuart’s approach to brewing and this is also evident in the extensive education he has undertaken in his craft.

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“I did three and a half years at Ballarat University undertaking a brewing course. You tell people you are doing beer school and they think all you do is drink beers, but it’s quite scientific. You have elements of chemistry, microbiology and engineering because you need to understand how things like metal conduct heat. “I then started brewing at a little place called the Gold Coast Brew Pub on the main drag in Surfers. Following that, I went back to Tassie and worked in Hobart’s Moo Brew for about five years. It’s the biggest microbrewery in Tasmania. From there I did some contract work with about four to five breweries which gave me great exposure to different techniques and brewery set ups and I have now been in Byron almost a year. After my very first trip to Byron, I always wanted to live here. My wife and I are now here and I am very proud of the beers we are brewing. Our beers are all about Byron and Byron is all about surfing.” It seems beers and barrels are in the blood of the boys at Byron Bay Brewery. Considering my obsession with surfing and amber nectar, I reckon they’ve got it made. Just in time for the festival the boys will launch Byron Bay Pale Lager and let me tell you, I’ve sampled and it is crisp and light with a beautiful flavour. I’m in love. Byron Bay Brewery beers are available in select outlets throughout Australia. The brewery will play host to the opening night celebrations of the Byron Bay Surf Festival. A surf art and photography exhibition will be held throughout the weekend with more festivities and bands playing Saturday night and the wrap-up party on Sunday night. Cheers big ears.

CALL SIMEON: 0415 205 513

WWW.BYRONBAYBOARDRACKS.COM 48

The 2012 Byron Bay Surf Festival takes place on the weekend of the 26 - 28 October. For further information on the event, visit www.byronbaysurffestival.com.

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MAIN: Guy Hastings in his Byron Bay gallery. 50

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LATEST: LOCAL

MR. MAPMAKER How many of us, as kids, drew treasure maps? Tea-stained paper, edges burned off with a magnifying glass, skull-and-crossbones overlooking palm-trees, waves and mermaids, finished off with a great big X to mark the spot… Imagining faraway islands and pretending to sail the high seas in search of them - these were simple, childhood pleasures, far removed from games consoles, texting and social media. But then you grow up. Not many get to take that sort of childhood joy and turn it into a paying day-job, but a lucky few manage to. Guy Hastings, while his art is far more accomplished than teastained scribbles, is one man steadily making a name for himself spreading the enjoyment of modern-day treasure maps where the loot isn’t a chest, but a barreling wave. Join us on a trip through Guy’s life and work.

Guy Hastings grew up in a flat on the waters edge in Double Bay, an inner-city eastern suburb in Sydney. His elder brother joined the local sailing club and was a champion sailor. Guy remembers living on the beach and spending hours paddling a painter’s plank around the moored boats… “Sometimes a storm would produce huge seaweed mats that you could paddle around on. I saw surfing for the first time in the very early 60’s at Double Bay, and I’ve never known waves to break there since. It must have been huge outside - Neilsen Park must have been going off. There were two guys riding knee-high waves on long boards near the 18 Footer Sailing Club. There were photos on the front page the next day. It made a big impression on me, seeing waves for the first time and guys riding them. I couldn’t get into sailing after seeing that. So, surfing it was. I learnt to balance by running down the beach slope and launching on a zippy board, a yellow, hollow, plastic paddler you got for Xmas. Midget Farrelly had a TV show back then, but we didn’t have a TV so I tried to catch it

along with the Wonderful world of Disney at mates’ places. “In 1966 we moved to Bondi - how stoked was I! I body-surfed until on my 13th birthday grandma bought me a NARM Super 6 - the Dick Brewer equivalent of “Rubberies” made by North Australian Rubber Mills. You rarely see them now, but they were part of the landscape back then with Stan MacDonald hiring them out at Bondi Beach along with deck chairs and sprayed-on suntan oil, since time immemorial, it seemed. They were about 4 ½’ - a surf mat made of five inflated, hard, rubber tubes, welded together, along with a pair of handles up front. The Super 6 model had a canvas deck, “vulcanised” handles and astonishingly, a keel fin. It superseded the other brand around then made by Advanx, which was basic but still popular. The beauty of it was you were allowed to ride between the flags. You’d often feel people’s heads as you rode over them, but no one got injured. In those days the beachies (lifeguards) were pretty heavy, having the power to confiscate a surfboard that was out of bounds.

The good thing about surfing on a rubbery was it taught you to use power to turn - a necessity back then on the heavy surfboards of the day. The other surfcraft on the beach back then was the cheaper and more popular Coolite. Being way lighter, they were a lot easier to turn and were faster. The downside was the rash, the snap factor and no handles. There was a friendly rivalry between the two schools, but that disappeared when we graduated onto fibreglass. Like going from junior school to high school, you start at the bottom again.

BOARDBUILDING When it came to surfboards, for many at the time, it wasn’t easy to just buy one at the shop, so Guy made his first first six boards. His first few being stripped and reshaped mals. “There were a lot of backyard experiments in those days... I once had a board made from insulation foam. Another guy used a bed sheet instead of fibreglass. It lasted for a few waves, longer than my

mate who used only resin and no fiberglass - It disintegrated paddling over the first wave. I built the first few on the front porch at home, outside my parents’ bedroom. I still can’t believe they let me do that. They weren’t too sure about surfing - no parents were. They were shocked that I wanted to do it as a profession. All that money wasted on a private school.” While Guy had gained a handle on how to make a surfboard that floats, he opted to join the Bondi Beach Post Office to earn a few dollars, surfing before work, after work and during lunchtime if it was on. According to Guy, work was plentiful, there was plenty of money and less things to spend it on, and with Gough Whitlam becoming Prime Minister, he was saved from Vietnam and provided with a free tertiary education.

LEARNING THE SKILLS, SEEING THE WORLD So, in 1975, a strange convergence of events happened. Guy enrolled at East Sydney Tech in the Art Certificate Course – art having sep/oct 2012

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been his favourite subject at school. At the same time, he saw Bob Evan’s movie “Drouyn” which featured a magic looking place called Bali. “I teamed up with a mate and off we went that April, telling the Tech that it was research. The waves might not have matched expectations, but the bug bit and so I started a long association with Indo. How lucky are we to have this on our doorstep! It was a typical April, with variable winds, which meant we did a lot of exploring and speculation. As soon as I got back, I put together a couple of maps based on our experiences. But what to do with them? I couldn’t let it out into the media so I sat on them and they’re still in a folder.”

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However, it was the exercise that Guy enjoyed - not stopping until the maps were complete. He remembers these as his first 24hr art marathon. But as a young man, life got in the way and the idea of working on surf maps was shelved. Guy was having too much fun as an art student living in Bondi, surfing and working weekends behind the bar. After transferring to a diploma course and then a postgraduate teaching course, Guy graduated in 1981 – the year he and his future wife moved to Byron Bay. “I spent a couple of years casual teaching, taught myself signwriting, did some illustrations, a few murals and then some combination works, until I got a part-time art position at Mullumbimby High School, the only high school in the area. Life was good: 3 ½ days per week, married, building our first house, and the arrival of a couple of children and driving around in an old ‘68 Falcon ute I bought from my farmer neighbour. Teaching taught me many things. How to be organised was the main one. The kids got away with murder. Jeremy Byles (Bylesy - a well-known Byron local) was in my year 10 art class, the only kid to ever jump on my back while teaching. They were fun classes and I got good results. We would see each other in the surf so it was good to feel a part of a community. It filled the gap created when I left my Bondi peers. “The waves were definitely better back then in the 80’s. It was more regulated, a dry winter and a wet summer. There’s a classic line-up photo of the Pass showing wave after wave rolling down the beach. I’ve had it better than that quite a few times in the 80’s with it’s overhead barrels at the take off and head-high bowls all the way to the caravan park - a distance of 700 metres. Swells would last for up to a couple of weeks sometimes. I clearly remember the swell when Alan Bond won the America’s Cup, perfect conditions and a lined-up sand bank. On many occasions the wind would be off shore at Tallows in the morning, then swinging to a S/E offshore at the Pass in the arvo. It was Paradise! Yes, it was crowded back then too, but you knew almost everyone and aggro was uncommon. I was a lot fitter back then and more capable of a respectable position in the pecking order. All good things must pass.”

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As the population in the Byron Bay area steadily grew, the school numbers increased and Guy’s teaching position went to a full-time staff member. He remembers not being too stressed by it, even though his second child was about to arrive. In fact, it was perfect timing to let him do some soul-searching. The Hastings family rented out their house and moved to back to Sydney and Guy found a few odd-jobs doing pictorial signs, blackboards and a few paintings. As luck would have it, his wife noticed a job for him in the paper - an art company in Surry Hills looking for casual artists. After a few months as a casual he was asked to set up a mural division. This afforded him the unbelievable opportunity of heading up a number of projects painting palaces in Brunei and other South East Asian cities over the next few years.

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Upon finally returning to Australia, Guy took up a position as an Artist In Residence at an upmarket furniture showroom in Mosman, painting decorative panels screens and a few maps. While it was good to be back in Sydney, a lot had changed and there weren’t many familiar faces in Bondi.

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LATEST: LOCAL BELOW: Map number one Guy’s first foray into mapmaking.

“It was swarming with out-of-towner troublemakers on the weekends. Surfing was difficult with two small kids. So, I taught them surfing, which has to be one of the highlights of parenthood. We made numerous trips to Byron over the years where they picked up the rudiments on my board at Clarks. “One highlight was at North Bondi: it was offshore, no one in the water, just me and my 6-year-old son. I launched him onto three, beautiful, waist-high waves (to him) and that was when it clicked for him. He had poise. 54

“On the fourth wave he rode it into the shore dump and got a fin-bruise in the chest - panic! He was more scared than hurt, but I worried nonetheless. He rips now, with style. He has always displayed a caution to a lot of what he does, which is a good thing. His sister is the opposite. She’s a go-getter, and presently crewing a superyacht in the Med.” In 2002 the Hastings moved back to their house in Coorabell, overlooking Byron. Guy went back to teaching and started illustrating local aerial views. “Rusty Miller, my neighbour, bought a few for his Tourist Guide and I made a poster of the Mt Warning Caldera, an aerial view from the south.”

REDISCOVERY In 2005 Guy went to G-Land (Plenkung Beach, Grajagan Bay) for the first time with a Bondi crew, to enjoy wave after perfect wave, day after day. Going with his old mates made it special and he came back to Byron rejuvenated and inspired. “Thirty years after my first surf map I made a new one - a small one of G-Land and added Byron, Broken and The Super Bank as it was then called. I later added Lennox and Ballina to complete a sixpack set. I scanned them, printed and framed them, and took them around to the surf shops, thinking they’ll buy ‘em for sure. That’s when I started learning about marketing. Still learning. I learnt about the real estate of

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LEFT: 3D, but no computers. An amazing map of Byron Bay threedimensional featuring real hills, waves and all. bELow: Guy at work. Look, no computers! boTToM: A detail from one of Guy’s Indonesian maps.

retail wall space. You can fit a lot more t-shirts on a hanger than a single framed print.” Undaunted, Guy stayed on track with the maps and has carved a neat niche for himself. Rather than just produce simple maps with no detail, Guy combined his years of experience and skill with all the modern tools available such as satellite imagery, sea charts, topographical maps, general travel information and even photos and stories to create detailed and visually exciting maps for surfers. Constantly challenging himself to create something new, the form is still evolving. “In 2008 I went to G Land again with a view to gather more info for a really good map

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(and to sample some more perfection). No problem about its secrecy, everyone knows it. I came back and painted a pictorial close-up “satellite view” of the place I love. The beauty of artistic license is that you can create what you want. Satellite imagery is great but rarely shows the surf working well. I painted G Land at it’s best, labeling each section of reef and indicating the shape of the reef under water to try to explain how the whole place “works”. For example I noticed how a swell with more south in it made Speedies, the last section on the reef, work better than in a west swell. You would have thought the opposite. But I think the bombie out the back pivots and focuses the swell to different sections along

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LATEST: LOCAL

the reef depending on its direction. I tried to show this in the painting by refracting the swell lines around the bombie. So what you have is an intimate look at a surf break.” “Have you ever watched surfers in front of a map? I did the markets for six months and it was interesting to see different reactions. You can “see” the dialogue going on between the map and the surfer and if there are a few surfers, it doesn’t take long for the stories to come. I strive to make the maps with detail as accurate as possible and focus on the shape of the reefs. It helps one to visualise what a certain place will be like under a given set of conditions. TOP: Guy drawing a different kind of line in that place close to his heart, G Land. ABOVE: Not just any old maps, Guy has explored the Byron Bay area from many different aspects.

“Secrecy and sensitive spots are an issue, which is why there are no surf locations on my map of Simeulue to the Batu/Telo Islands. The place is too raw at the moment but it would be good to have a good map of the area when your traveling through. I only publish the already named surfing locations, hoping that I’ve got the details right if I haven’t been there. I’m a bit like the map-makers of old who stayed in the studio making their

maps based on outside information. A lot of information comes via the internet of course. Why make maps when it’s there already on the net? Well, because they’re nice to look at hanging on a wall for ready reference and as a memento. They also look good glassed into a surfboard, which Guy has done. Looking at his work, it’s easy to see that Guy favours a hand-made look as opposed to computer-generated images. “I was inspired partly by a scene in Pirates of The Carribean where a cartographer is painting a world map over a huge wall in the Governors office. ‘That’s what I want to do’, I thought. One day, island hopping through the Ments or the Pacific painting mural maps in resorts, sounds good to me.” If you love what you see on these pages, take some time to check out more of Guy’s work online: www.guyhastings.com or www.surfarimaps.com You can also pop into his gallery in Byron Bay, see the work and have a chat to Guy in person.

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LATEST: LOCAL INSIDE: Eli, at one of his favourite breaks on the Island. Photo: Simon Chipper

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Eli Curry Man of Many Colours WORDS: SIMON KETTLE

Eli Curry lives a diverse and colourful life; ASP Australian representative judge, Island Surfboards teamrider, qualified surf instructor and a damn fine surfer to boot - shortboards and longboards. Monday to Friday he works as a camp leader on Phillip Island and after hours dabbles with art, photography and a new passion, graphic design. Most importantly, Eli approaches everything in life with a sense of enthusiasm, positivity and adventure. This approach to life has obviously been instilled in him through his family upbringing and in particular his father, Simon Chipper, a former photographer for Tracks magazine, with whom he has a special bond as a surf mentor, and more importantly, friend. They still regularly surf together before work whenever thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a good swell running. So, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s on a beautiful day that I catch up with Eli at one of his beloved local breaks along the Bass Coast to talk the talk and walk the plank.

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LATEST: LOCAL Photo: Mitch Nibbs

LET’S GO SURFING NOW Well, I started surfing fairly young. I was always in the ocean because dad’s a surfer and mum loves the beach but I don’t actually have a distinct memory of learning to surf. It’s something that just happened and I developed it. I do remember having a conversation with dad and saying ‘I like this, can I come surfing with you a bit more?’ He took me to the beach that very night after school, was very supportive and said ‘let’s do it’. That was always the way it was. It was never forced. It was always a choice I wanted to make.

RIDES EM’ ALL Dad instilled in me: you ride a surfboard that’s appropriate for the conditions. Growing up, my mates would be riding their 5’11 x 17 ¾”, having 60

a bit of a chuckle at me rolling down with one of dads’ single fins because it was small, but after a little while I started to pass it onto them.

SURFING WITH DAD It’s actually just me and my dad. I’m an only child and we surf together as much as we can. He works on the island too and if there‘s a day before work and there’s swell, then we hit it. It’s a special thing to have. It’s great.

IN BETWEEN SWELLS I like photography, music and art in general. I’m not much of an artist, but I really enjoy scribbling and having a bit of fun, and I really enjoy looking at art. I enjoy music too and dad’s also right into it. At home there’s always music on. I used to play a bit of drums - you know, the high school

band and that sort of stuff with a couple of mates, but not anymore. I just enjoy it.

SURFING AND SCHOOL I wasn’t in the position where I had to wag school to go for a surf, because I knew dad would be going. At school, I was never hugely academic but school was so much fun because it was so social. I was one of those kids who never excelled and always just got by but I was just having a great time. Partly due to being an only child, it was my chance to mix.

WORKING 9 TO 5 I help out at Island Surfboards as a team rider and with my dad at the local surf school, but my full time job is working as camp instructor on Phillip Island, which is great because I live so

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“GROWING UP, MY MATES WOULD BE RIDING THEIR 5’11 X 17 ¾”, HAVING A BIT OF A CHUCKLE AT ME ROLLING DOWN WITH ONE OF DADS’ SINGLE FINS”.

close to work most days I don’t even have to get the car out of third gear. (laughs)

‘I’m going to be a competitive surfer’ or anything like that.

ELI THE COMPETITOR

GIVE A LITTLE LOVE

Competitions are fun. I enjoy doing them because of the interaction of just hanging out with your mates, the banter and that sort of stuff. Longboard-wise, it usually me and my mate Sandy Ryan. We haven’t competed for a year or so, but we generally jump in his old man’s campervan and go down to Torquay and surf in the event. So, it’s a good weekend to go away and have a bit of fun. Shortboard wise, I surfed a bit when I was doing the juniors and later had a bit of a crack at the opens with limited to nil success. (laughs) A lot of the time I was working at the events and there’d be a spot and they’d slip me in to the open men’s events and I’d have some fun. That’s all it’s ever been, I’ve never taken myself seriously and gone

I’m keen to get involved in the Disabled Surfing Association with something over here on Phillip Island. I see Smiths Beach as the best location for a disabled surfing event in Australia. There’s a wheelchair ramp - how many beaches have a wheelchair ramp? And it’s the best beach to teach surfing at because it’s predictable, doing the exact same thing every day with the rip splitting in the middle and going either side of the bay. It’s just built for it.

ON DRY LAND I’m just starting to tinker around with design work, helping out a mate on a project called

‘Tevita’. It’s a Fijian word for ‘beloved’. So, if I was going to do any further study at this point in my life, I think it would be along the lines of graphic design, incorporating photography.

JUDGING – CUTTING YOUR TEETH When I was surfing in contests as a junior, my dad being the supporting father that he was, started doing some judging. He knew good surfing and was roped into doing the judging thing and so when I’d get knocked out, I’d go and hang in the tent with him. I’d just started out with a bit of spotting, changing the flags and stuff like that. I don’t know if I was asked but all of a sudden it was ‘There you go, here’s a judging plate, you want to do it? Have a crack at this’. That was probably when I was 15 or 16 and I just started regionally, then onto state level and if you start doing a reasonable job you get rewarded sep/oct 2012

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by going off to national titles. Internationally, my first job was to go to Ecuador in 2004 to represent Australia. The waves weren’t so good, but it was great to get the opportunity to go and see this beautiful place in South America. They really look after you. From there I started doing some ASP stuff, the first gig, can you believe, was going to the Maldives to do a WQS shortboard event? I can’t believe it, but I’ve been there four times!

CHINA

AFTER THE SHOW

HAWAII

It’s all pretty business like. They’re professionals even though there’s not much money in it especially longboarding - but generally there’s always a party at the end of a contest just for everyone to relax and the sponsors to chuck on a bit of a soiree to say ‘thank you,’ but it’s not debauchery or anything like that. Most of the longboarders are paying for it out of their own pocket. It’s fairly serious stuff, so you’ve got to be smart about it. For my part, I’m getting paid and I pride myself on this, so: do a bloody good job.

Before I went to Hawaii I thought it could be a fairly intimidating place but it couldn’t be any further from the truth. I went there in 2010 as the head judge for an Oxbow event. You could very easily feel pressure from an intimidating Hawaiian, but you need to remember what your job is. You meet people, you look them in the eye and shake their hand. It could be perceived that Hawaiians are intimidating but I myself have never felt that way. They are such welcoming, loving people.

I was the ASP World Longboard Tour judge representing Australia at the recent event held in China late 2011, being part of the panel and the team. Getting there, I flew into Hong Kong and then onto an island named ‘Hainan’ and then via bus to this little coastal community for the contest. In China, everything is so efficient, good highways and that sort of stuff. The island where the contest was held is being called ‘the Hawaii of China’, or that’s the way they’re developing it. It’s very popular with wealthy eastern Europeans as a holiday destination. It’s cheap and easy to get there.

ABOVE: Eli at home, on land (Photo: Simon Kettle) and BELOW: in the water (Photo: Simon Chipper).

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I’ve got to meet some fantastic people along the way people that I look up to surfing-wise, especially when I was younger and I was bit like ‘whoa’. I’ve pretty much had the opportunity to meet all my heroes, and that’s a special thing, but I always maintain professionalism. Through judging I’ve now got friends all over the world and I wouldn’t give that away for quids. When you meet people, even if they’ve won ‘X’ contest, the thing we have in common is surfing and conversation is always the same, ‘are you getting a wave?’

TURN AND FACE THE CHANGE It’s definitely changing as I get older. I don’t really feel the desire to compete very much myself anymore, but I definitely enjoy see the top echelon of the sport pushing themselves. I find that very entertaining to see what they can do. Before, if there was a surf contest on the webcast that I wasn’t at, I’d tune in, but these days I just watch the highlights at the end of each day and that’ll do me.

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So, it is changing, but it’s still a real honour to be involved at the top echelon of the sport, judging longboarding, I really enjoy watching that. At the same time there’s the ‘grove cats’ that are coming out of California, beautiful noseriders...

SPORT OR ART? If there’s people out there getting paid to be professional athletes - and that’s what they are these days... When you look at the top blokes in shortboarding and longboarding that are dedicating their life to being a competitor, then it’s got to be a sport. But when we come down here (local break) and I’m watching blokes just having a surf and expressing themselves the way they want to express themselves, then it’s an art form. I love blokes that just go surfing and its beautiful and then... I’m involved in the ASP. It might be a contradiction but I don’t care because I just love the whole thing.

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Peter Troy (OAM) at Lorne Point, checking the Australian Titles action alongside Rod Brooksâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Vanguard. March 1967.

LATEST: LENS LEGEND

A MATTER OF BLACK AND WHITE THE WORK OF BARRIE SUTHERLAND WORDS: DAVE SWAN

It’s perhaps at times a title too easily bestowed upon people, but Victorian photographer Barrie Sutherland truly is a living legend of the lens. His celebrated work literally spans the last half a century of surfing, all starting when he first picked up a Kodak Box Brownie back in the late 1950s. Through the years, Barrie has worked for several Australian surf magazines and his images of the south-west coast of Victoria have given us a real understanding of the emerging surf culture of the time. His documentation of the Easter Bells Beach surf contest in particular is of great historical significance. Today, Barrie still surfs and shoots on film, as he has always done, spending the rest of his time at his Torquay gallery, Watermarks. Born in Melbourne, Barrie’s parents used to regularly travel down to Victoria’s Surf Coast camping at Torquay or Sunnymead in the early 1940s. His grandparents and cousins moved to Torquay with his parents keen to follow. The Sutherlands bought John’s Milk Bar in the main street of Portarlington, about half an hour up the road. So it was there Barrie first started surfing at Portarlington with his cousin on hired black rubber surfmats they had paid sixpence for at the local surf club. At the age of twelve he graduated to a hollow plywood paddleboard tackling the waves around the pier by his lonesome. Barrie recalls he used to get some good waves there on a strong north-easterly wind. sep/oct 2012

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In years to follow, he started to tackle the bigger waves around at Torquay. Older locals like Rex ‘China’ Gilbert, Vic Tantau and a young Peter Troy were always surfing the point. It was here that Barrie would first learn a valuable lesson about always respecting the ocean. “One day my cousin and I were surfing at Torquay and we decided to swim out to the main break where there was a sandbank. We were about nine at the time. My cousin Ian made it, but I kept getting washed back into deeper water set after set. Apparently, a lady ended pulling me out by my hair. I had damned nearly drowned. From that point on, when I started getting serious on the boardriding circuit, if I had a premonition, I didn’t go out. I wasn’t afraid of big surf, just aware. I used to tackle Bells as big as it got, triple overhead plus. Big stuff - where it was almost breaking right across the bowl towards Rincon.” Barrie went on to compete in some local surf contests, but after the giant waves of the Bells contest in ’65 decided it wasn’t for him. Conservative estimates placed the waves at 25-30ft. It wasn’t that the waves scared him. It was just that he was getting his fill of waves without having to compete.

early days of Barrie’s photography Barrie first picked up his parent’s Kodak Box Brownie in the late ‘50s. He doesn’t recall quite why, but remembers he started taking photos of the family dog and cats, and later his wife-to-be Madeleine - they recently celebrated their fortyseventh wedding anniversary. The years that followed saw Barrie dabble in photography between studying Civil Engineering, playing Australian Rules football and surfing. When he graduated and landed a job with Geelong City Council as a Civil Engineer he retired from playing football on the weekends and started surfing more.

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Bobby Brown shares a wave with Rod Brooks and Rob Conneeley at Bells Beach. Australian Titles, March 1967.

LATEST: LENS LEGEND

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Jan Juc Beach Track, December 1967

Terry Klemm, Marcus Shaw, Bells Beach, Easter Monday 1966

LATEST: LENS LEGEND

“I got a CB vest, bought a new Barry Bennett board, a Volkswagen and I was free. It was the sixties. Myself and Madeleine, or me and a few mates would travel endlessly up and down the Great Ocean Road. “I then bought a secondhand 35mm Praktica from a Camera House in Geelong. I didn’t have a clue! Didn’t know anything about film speed, shutter, aperture... I just clicked away. “I bought a rudimentary teleconverter, whereby, if you had a 50mm lens you would take the lens out, and you put this other thing in, which is like a magnifying glass. It gave you what was like a really small telescopic lens, so I could zoom in on the surfing action. “I started getting shots of Marcus Shaw and Terry Wall at Bells in ’63. They were pretty awful, but historically very important. After six or seven months of that I thought to myself: ‘Nah, I am not getting anywhere’. I joined the Geelong Camera Club and very quickly realised I was out of my depth. These people had Leicas - these top, top quality cameras - and my stuff was wrong. So, I was on a fast track learning curve. “Surfing World was out then and I looked at who was doing the photographs. There was Bob Weeks, Mal Sutherland (no relation) and Jack Eden. I looked at what they were doing and considered them to be pretty good. They were the standout quality photographers and I thought I had to be better than them if I wanted to do anything.

“THESE PEOPLE HAD LEICAS - THESE TOP, TOP QUALITY CAMERAS - AND MY STUFF WAS WRONG.”

“I ditched the Praktica, and looked at the three top cameras: Nikon, Minolta and Pentax. Canon wasn’t even on the market back then, I believe. “I think the Nikon was about £140, the Minolta was £130 and the Pentax was £110. Out of those three cameras I thought the Pentax felt a bit light and I figured I needed something a bit more rugged. I thought the Nikon was a bit expensive but I was impressed with the Minolta, plus I think Jack Eden was using one at the time. So I thought ‘I’ll get a Minolta’ and I still have it - an SR1 35mm camera with a 400mm lens.”

Barrie Sutherland on first joining the Geelong Camera Club

Barrie’s wife, Madeleine Sutherland at the Victorian Titles - February 1967. sep/oct 2012

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Whites Beach, August 2009

LATEST: LENS LEGEND We’ve often heard the debate between photographers as to what camera is better, Canon or Nikon. Barrie however, is sold on the Minolta. He describes it as ‘amazing’ and after using the same camera for so many decades I remark that he should be the poster child for Minolta cameras worldwide.

“WITH BLACK AND WHITE, IF IT’S NOT GOOD, THE BRAIN JUST SWITCHES OFF.”

Barrie Sutherland on colour in photography

Winki Pop crowd, January 1966

As I start to scan around his gallery, Barrie points out some of his current work and the fact it is taken by his original Minolta SR1. He then starts to recall the actual lens he used, not just in present, but past photos as well. It’s just amazing that he cannot only remember the photo and the point in time it was taken, but also the camera and the lens configuration that he took the photograph with.

“I use it today because it shoots superb black and white. It’s still fun and when you get it right, the pictures it takes are absolutely stunning. Customers come in and they can actually pick the film. They look at the photograph and just comment how they love the composition and the softness and the hardness in it.”

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Barrie Sutherland at the Watermarks Gallery, Torquay

DIGITAL CAMERAS “Yes, I have an Olympus digital 3.2 megapixel. You don’t need a 12 megapixel camera unless you are doing top, professional work. You only have to spend a couple of hundred dollars on a good little camera, and if you know a bit about composition, light, and angles and subject matter, Bob’s your uncle. People come in here and they’re amazed when I pull out this little pocket camera. One of the greatest shots I have ever taken of Bells was taken with the little Olympus – it’s all lighting.” (It appears there is hope for amateur photographers like me yet. My fumbling and bumbling with cameras might amount to something yet…) “Well, that’s what it was like for me in the early 60’s. But once I got the Minolta, things began to change dramatically. I regularly went to the Geelong Camera Club. I listened and I learned and was mentored by a local photographer called Ian Hawthorne. As soon as I got a grasp of things like light and angles, it just came together because composition came naturally to me. From there, my surf photography just took off.”

SHOOTING IN BLACK AND WHITE Barrie confesses he just loves it. But he goes on to explain the challenges with shooting in black and white that he feels are much greater than colour. “For colour, its purely composition and light. Subject matter is not so critical. You can get away with not getting your parameters correct because your eye is accustomed to seeing colour all the time. The brain just absorbs a 74

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colour picture whether it’s good or bad. With black and white, if it’s not good, the brain just switches off. It’s very critical in terms of your tonal control and your lighting because you have to get those highlights. You have to pick your subject and have your parameters correct because if you don’t get it right, it can look very dead, dull and boring.”

THE PRESENT Nowadays Barrie is still taking many photos, but not of surfing anymore. “Five years back I spent a couple of minutes on the bottom steps of Winki Pop with a 200mm lens and I thought ‘I’m over this, I’m bored. I would much rather BE surfing. I don’t know the surfers anymore. I don’t know what they’re going to do. Back with Rod Brooks or Wayne Lynch, I knew exactly what they were going to do when they would take off. I could just follow them with the lens and that would help a lot. So, I just put my camera away and walked away from it. Now I focus on the culture of the area, the car park at Bells, Torquay town centre, walking the streets with my Minolta – click, bang, click, bang, write it down.” And as for surfing itself, Barrie is still getting out and about when it is cranking at Winki Pop, Bells or Rincon. “I’m seventy this year and I’m determined to keep surfing Bells. If it gets a bit too big (and we’re talking absolutely massive for us mere mortals) I’ll head around to Torquay. It is a good social scene out there.” For a an amazing trip through decades of surfing history, visit Barrie’s Watermarks Gallery in Torquay. You can also view and purchase prints from his website. Visit www.watermarksphotogallery.com.au

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IT’S A DOG’S LIFE: At Yeppoon, Central Queensland with my South Australian mate Scotty and his 9’2’ Hayden mal. Hadn’t surfed for months. Got a great day, our dogs kept themselves occupied while we surfed. Not many places we can still do this in Australia.

WORDS & PHOTOS: SIMON MARTIN

How far north do you think you can surf on Australia’s east coast? Maybe a little further than you might think. Simon Martin, a surfer finding himself in a rather unlikely spot, fills us in on his local breaks.

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TRAVEL: ROAD TRIP I had reservations on whether to write this article, on the basis of ‘letting the cat out of the bag’ but seeing as the Stockyard Point Track through the Byfield National Park is well known these days, this is no secret spot. However, having lived in this neck of the rainforest eight years, it is very peaceful and it should remain free from the hordes for some time yet. It is, after all, 8hrs drive north of Brisbane and at the end of a 40km no through road. The surf in question is found near Yeppoon, Central Queensland. Prior to my arrival I’d heard whispers of waves. Some said it was rubbish; others had been there when the surf was pumping. The truth lay more with the former opinion, but you can find the odd classic day on the Central Coast.

Most surfers will remember the Christmas swell of 2011 for sometime as it was firing on the south east, but there was also good swell pushing through in Central Queensland too. I was working Christmas day, and as most surfers would commiserate, melting at my work desk knowing there was solid swell hitting the whole Queensland coastline. I couldn’t get out of bed and to the beach fast enough Boxing Day, and the fully patronised car park at “Big Dune” Farnborough told me there was still swell. There are probably 10-15 parks spread over 4 or 5 parking bays, with bark -lined tracks to the beach. The morning king tide meant the other means of access - 4WD-ing along the beach - was not viable. You will know when you’ve reached Sandy Point road; the corrugations could shake apart a diamond.

In any event, I jagged a park and raced the 500m bush track to a welcome sight. Over the sand hills the vista was brownish-green corduroy to the horizon. The water is not often blue due to the high rainfall into Corio Bay. Solid 3ft peaks were firing, the best sandbanks found between the big dune section and stretching north past the national park boundary. All up this is a generous 4-5km. This plethora of choice is wonderful stuff. With a little effort and some soft sand running, I had my own peak. This particular day, I put in a six-hour session but was totally unprepared for surfing for that length of time. A lack of drinking water and no zinc cream hit me on the hike back to the car, but the third-degree burns and dehydration were worth it: walls allowing three or four solid

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turns, which isn’t bad for a fat b*st*rd on a 6’10. If you were a lighter surfer in the under 70kg’s bracket (pipsqueak class) and had the right board some high performance bowls were on offer. You could also take your pick which way you wanted to go. I think the ratio was about 60/40 forehand to backhand for me on the day. I’ve seen it this good once before, and just below this quality many times.

THIS PIC AND ACROSS: Adelaide boy Scotty - white from winter but loving the warm trims.

Huey can forget about the northerners for months, but you can still score a clean, surprise swell mid-year. Obviously the tropical summer livens the ocean up a bit, and that’s where some common sense and map reading will tell you where to head in the prevailing swell and wind conditions. I have found the Farnborough beachbreaks over time to have the best shape. I wonder if the Keppel Islands refract the swell positively, instead of blocking swell? There are plenty of natural sand dunes and the associated movement that year round produces some fine shapely sandbanks. I’ve had some great waves further north in the National Park too. The Park is serious 4WD-ing once you get to the first dune. 20psi or under is needed for the car tyres, if it has been dry weather the western side of the dune will swallow your car up. Take a compressor or stop in at Byfield General Store, they have an air hose, fuel, food and ice. If you want to overnight in the National Park, you can also pay your camp fees at the Byfield Store or online. For the internet swell-checkers, if it’s showing 3-4 ft waves on the Sunshine Coast, or 2-3 ft at Agnes Water (the previous distant northern point title holder) there should be something happening at Farnborough beach in terms of waves. Farnborough is more exposed, so any wind with West in it is good; Byfield National Park just requires moving to the right spot out of the wind.

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CQ POINT BREAK: Just mind the stingers... Byfield National Park surf check.

AFTER A HARD NIGHTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WORK: Local surfer Jannene after an all nighter work shift. Met her at the beach ramp and she got straight into a few gold ones. sep/oct 2012

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PARKING: You can’t get much closer

Shedding some light on these Central Queensland beaches should not stir notions of a northern ‘Santosha’, but might simply provide some hope if venturing to these parts. You may have relatives up here to visit or work may bring you up North. Either way, check the maps and throw the mini-mal on the car. If it’s big then you may even get a few hotdoggers on the shortboard. I was amazed the first time I saw ridable waves here, and thoroughly enjoy getting a few and cooling off.

Management at www.derm.qld.gov.au/ for more information. The area is alive, in terms of flora and fauna too. Byfield has unique flora species. Expect to see lots of bird and marine life, some of the usual suspects; some migratory birds are travellers from as far afield as Siberia and East Asia. So there is enough going on to keep non-surfers occupied too. If only I could get out to the Big Reef…

You want the Bangalee turnoff for Farnborough beach access, normal road rules apply and amazingly no fees. Respect the place and hopefully we can all share it for some time to come. There are patrols by National Parks and sometimes the police, so obey the rules that are signposted. Same deal with Byfield - check the Department of Environment and Resource

DRIVE SAFE: Watch for the locals...

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If you’re still craving more overseas excitement following last edition’s travel-fest, we’re very happy to be able to follow up with some more Maldives gold! Sunshine Coast-based press photographer, Brett Wortman, recently gave up chasing sirens and celebrities in newspaperland in exchange for a month working - and we use this word loosely - in the Maldives. Living aboard surf charter boat the Handhu Falhi as the on-board photographer for surf adventure specialists, World Surfaris, Brett was literally thrown in the deep end of this Indian Ocean paradise, tasked with capturing the ‘Kodak moments’ on behalf of the surfhungry guests that had travelled from all corners of the globe to share in an adventure of a lifetime. Take a mental trip to the Maldives through the eye of Brett’s lens as you check out some of the amazing images he came back with... WORDS & PHOTOS: BRETT WORTMAN

LEFT: Portuguese-speaking Japanese Australian Jun Hashimoto charged anything and everything thrown at him. And with waves this glassy, uncrowded and special, why wouldn’t you? sep/oct 2012

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FAR LEFT: The art of the dismount becomes all the more important when your wave is closing out over a dry coral reef. LEFT: Jun Hashimoto charging a bigger day at Beacons. BELOW: Local surfer, Hoobs, showing how it’s done at Blue Bowls. RIGHT: Sunshine Coast surfboard shaper and World Surfaris guide, Peter ‘Stumpy’ Wallace slides across a gentle wave at Antiques Left, or Toadstools.

LEFT: Searching for ice-cream on Gadhdhoo Island. Being a small local island in the outer atolls, this proved to be quite a challenge, however we eventually located some in a closed unmarked store down a narrow alley way. BELOW LEFT: Stumpy (left) and I were treated to a drink of coconut water on Kondey Island. I soon learnt that coconuts are like gold in the islands. You can’t just climb a tree and help yourself as pretty much every tree is accounted for. BOTTOM: On the deck of the Handhu Falhi, looking for a sheltered anchor for the night. Sunrise and sunset is even more special when you’re in paradise.

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A MEMORY OF

Robbie Page remembers a moment in a magical place. WORDS: ED SINNOTT Robbie Page’s journey as a professional surfer took him from the bottom of the birdcage living in a Bellambi housing commission ghetto through the pain of a broken home and then to the pinnacle of his sport - a Pipeline Masters title. It’s a seafaring tale as well, where as the blond haired golden boy, next in-line to be divine, he was taken up into the maelstrom of professional surfing at a tender age and spat out with the garbage when things went wrong. He was sponsored by surfing giants O’Neill and Oxbow for many years until being discarded. He experienced surreal highs starring in a Hollywood movie and black

depressive lows while sitting in solitary confinement in a Japanese prison. Robbie has logged 22 winters in Hawaii, 10 years travelling on the pro tour and 12 years surfing and living in France managing his Cream bar in the European summer hotspot, Hossegor. Robbie’s story is one of absolute extremes: fame, profound joy and utter despair. It is a journey of courage; fortitude and faith. Sit back and enjoy the ride as we look at different aspects of Robbie’s incredible journey. Here’s one of them.

territory on the Bay of Biscay where North Atlantic storms generate massive waves that smash full force into the rocky coastline. The estuary at Mundaka creates a sandbar that is submerged in one of the most ominous areas of oceanic energy anywhere in the world. Incredible left handers detonate with mechanical precision in a perfect lineup of insane barrels. Robbie Page loves this place. This is his story.

Mundaka is the jewel in the crown of European surfing. It sits deep in Basque

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TRAVEL: MEMORIES

OF MUNDAKA

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TRAVEL: MEMORIES

BELOW: Robbie Page LEFT:: A far more relaxed day at Mundaka

“...I remember driving down to Mundaka with Gary Elkerton from Hossegor. I was up at 3:30 in the morning freezing, waiting for Elko. Just me and him in the car at thousand miles an hour tearing up the asphalt, music full bore, laughing and screaming all the way. We had no taste for either poverty or honest labour, so surfing was the only alternative left for us. And besides, we were both getting paid by sponsors to do it. I could never fully believe that I was actually being paid to surf perfect waves, go figure that one... When you go to Mundaka you are going to the very heart of Basque nationalism. The graffitied walls serve as a reminder of their fierce struggles. Basque surfers are the locals who rule the joint and they are intense. There was a feeling of extreme energy in all directions, and that at any moment the sh*t would go down. I felt myself saying we can’t stop here! This is Basque country! When we pulled up it was a grey and stormy morning and the waves were pumping at 15 feet plus. There was no one out and nowhere to hide but we were pro surfers and had to go out. You could strike sparks anywhere because the combination of huge waves, Basque locals and an awesome environment created a kind of kinetic adrenalin that you could feel, it was like a potent electrical charge.

There was an extraordinary sense that whatever I was doing to do with surfing was correct and logical. It didn’t matter what the rest of the world was doing because to me there was only this pure morning and incredible waves to contend with. I had no other focus and felt my head spinning as I crawled into my icy wetsuit. By this time there was one Basque local out and no one else. People were watching it with fear in their eyes all holding back waiting for someone crazy enough to chance it and avoid getting smashed on the rocks or actually catching a wave. Another Spanish guy yelled out to me in a menacing drawl: ‘Hey Pagy you out there or whatttt!’. It was this moment I realised my game was up and there was no turning back. I had to climb down the front of the point and paddle out into the maelstrom down behind the church on the point because you couldn’t get out the harbour. It was way too big. Walking down the point I was shaking with anticipation. It seemed everything was more beautiful because in some ways I felt doomed. I thought to myself nothing will ever be as magic as now. I could die out here. When you’re faced with your mortality you come face to face with God. It’s like we will never be here again so the whole world takes on new meaning. Getting out was hell. I got smashed immediately by a gigantic set and had to paddlelike crazy to get in the line-up, or risk getting dragged into the rocks and certain death.

When I got out I realised the enormity of this situation I was in. I was surfing waves that averaged 15 foot with bigger rogue clean ups. Huge barrels spat at me as I paddled through the dark green icy water. I pulled into the vortex on one killer wave and a giant chunk of water like a Volkswagen fell on my head and drove me through the deck of my 7’6 gun. I got cart wheeled, driven to oblivion and caught in the river of darkness. Completely wasted I climbed out of the ocean half an hour later, half dead. My mate was on the hill with an 8’6’’ bushman I had sold him and he said ‘You want to take it back out brah’. My first thought was no way known to man am I going back out there. But my pro surfing alter ego yelled back... So I jumped into the frenzied ocean again and got out the back.I felt I was being hypnotized by the huge kinetic sculptures rolling towards me. They were waves that looked like fantastic art that were the perfection of nature. I turned and paddled into a big one and held my nerve as I went with the lip spinning into the black vortex. I was dropping and climbing screaming to myself ‘Go! Go! Go!’ I could see a Basque surfer way down the line giving me the evil eye because coming up before me was a spot in the wave where I could pull out safely, or commit to the heaviest backdoor section. I could feel his black eyes burning my soul with contempt if I didn’t do it as I approached the heaviest part of the wave. He was screaming, I was

screaming, so I pull in and backdoored a section the size of barn. Everything went black in the barrel and time stopped. It felt like an eternity where I was suspended in space. Then I got shot out like a cannonball. I’d made it. As I was paddling out I could see the church on the hill through the 15 foot sets of relentless hissing tubes and I lost my mind. I thought I was living in that old gothic church for free and they were going to feed me three meals a day because I was a hopeless sinner and God would support my endless surfing program so I could surf these awesome barrels forever. There was no other reality to it at all and I was lost in the adrenalised moment where my mind had eradicated any concepts of the past or the future and basically I decided I would never leave. I existed in a 5th dimensional reality I had created and to me this was as real as anything out there in society. In many ways it is the Koori aspect of my personality that is submerged in THE DREAMING. Surfing for me is the dreaming, it’s where I disappear from the world and it connects me to my source. Surfing is another reality where the times we spend in nature away from the mendacity of everyday life are golden moments. These moments are ones I grab onto with both hands. They are real defining aspects of my life that point the way to truth and take me to new horizons I’ve never seen.

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MT057

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STAND UP FOR BALI While we had done lots of exploring up and down the east coast, this was our first overseas SUP adventure. Right from the beginning it was a bit of a big deal for me. Not only was I going on my first overseas surf trip, but to get a SUP board over, I had to downsize from my beloved Colin McPhillips 9’10 to something under 9’ so it would fit on the plane. Less than a week before the trip, I got myself an awesome little 8’6” carbon rail Hobie CP Torque and Jason took his usual SUP, a CM 8’11”. With a double layer of bubble wrap and nice thick board bags, we were ready to roll. Travelling light was the plan, so other than the two board bags, we had one little carry-on bag and my handbag. Jason just threw two boardies and three t-shirts in with his board, and we were away. WORDS: MELISSA McMANUS

TOP LEFT: You meet some strange creatures on the way to the beach. ABOVE: Making the most of all the water LEFT: Do you seriously need a caption for that?

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TRAVEL: PLANE TRIP We arrived in Denpasar airport at 10.20pm to plenty of strange looks as we exited the airport with our ‘monster-size’ boards. Now, to get our boards on the roof of the taxi... The taxi lights are just held on by magnets, so the roof signs were gone in a flash, but thank god we took our own soft racks, as the straps the driver pulled out were barely more than frayed string. We spent the first couple of days in Sanur. Day one: eat, rest, explore. The winds were blowing, so no SUP options here. From what we had read, this was likely to continue this time of year, so day two: Grab a driver and mount a bigger expedition. First stop was Serangan Island with plenty of waves, but it was still too windy, so we headed to the west. Padang Padang. What a gorgeous place! We parked the car at the top of the hill and climbed down the stairs, emerging through a cave to view a beautiful sheltered cove with sparkling turquoise water and a perfect little right-hander peeling across the inside reef. We were in the water in a flash. It had been three days since we had SUPed, so we were busting! What a fun little

surf we had that day - waist to shoulder-high, right-hand peelers for the next hour, until the tide got so low that we were surfing over only a foot or so of water. It was time to get out and pack up for our move up to Balian. Day three: We had an early morning pick-up in a vehicle with roof-racks, a bit of a rarity. After two hours of terrifying driving, we were halfway up the west coast and were thrilled to drop down the steep little road into the village to a view of a perfect rivermouth break. It was a solid 4ft with some bigger sets and since the wind was already into it we settled ourselves into our gorgeous little bungalow and headed down to the river for flat-water exploration. The scenery was divine - locals fishing, washing, watering their cattle, all beneath the lush tropical vegetation that fringed the river. The cattle and the locals were wide-eyed when they saw our unusual craft, so I don’t think SUP was common around here. We had booked seven days in Balian and the ‘surfer package’ included two day trips up the coast to Medewi, which we had visited 15 years before. After a chat with

some new-found German friends in the adjacent bungalow, who advised that conditions were going to be even bigger the next day, we made arrangements to hit Medewi together. Medewi is generally smaller than Balian and for our first serious surf we didn’t want to go straight out into something too big. It was a good decision. Medewi had changed dramatically since our last visit. The wave was the same, but back then Jason was the only guy out for most of our stay. Not so this time! The little cul-de-sac at the end of the laneway that leads to the beach was packed, and the water was even more packed! But boy, did we have some fun. Getting in down the seawall and over the loose boulders was a bit of a challenge and getting out was a bit treacherous too, but Jason scored a couple of screamers all the way from miles out the back, right through the crowd to the very end section full of kids on the rocky beach. I, on the other hand, was sitting nearer the shore and was struggling to get anything due to the crowd and my polite nature. It was dog-eat-dog out there to get a wave, but I ended up scoring a perfect one

with a photo to prove it, thanks to the friendly locals who run a great surf photography service - 100 images on CD for $20. The following day, Medewi was packed again, but this time our photographer friend took us to a beach break a bit further down. It was a heavy shorebreak to get through but he was on the money with the waves. We had lefts and rights all over the place and there were only about five others out. We surfed till our legs could hold us up no longer, and then collapsed into the car for the ride back to our beautiful riverside abode for an afternoon of napping around the pool. (Hmmm, time for that complimentary massage that came with our package.) The next week was a blur of surfing the waves of Balian. In the mornings on the lower tide the inside left suited me perfectly. It was a little over head-high and fast and the rip to get back out was nearly as fast as the wave! As the tide got higher the swell got bigger (and so did the heavy shore break) so I got out and played cameraman. Jason got so many perfect left-handers I lost sep/oct 2012

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count. We were loving this little place and couldn’t believe that there was not a single tout trying to sell us stuff. Our days consisted of early surfing, eating, napping by the pool, bintangs overlooking surf, sleeping and then doing it all again. We had extended our stay here but knew we had to move onto our next stop - Bukit Peninsula. Our new German friends Alex and Greg had already gone on ahead to Bingin and found a fantastic hotel on the edge of the cliff-top. From the edge of our infinity pool, we looked straight down onto Bingin and eastwards to Dreamland or westward to Impossibles. On the day of our arrival it was small so I was keen to hit Bingin straight away. There were only about eight out and we all got loads of shoulder high lefts. The tide was high so there was plenty of water over the reef making it very userfriendly. The next day was a completely different kettle of fish: It was 4ft and working a treat: there were 38 surfers all hovering over a take-off spot the size of a five cent piece. Not a place for SUPs, so Jason and I just paddled off for a cruise along this spectacular piece of coastland. We were hanging around Dreamland when Jason spotted a set coming. There was only one other guy out and we had quizzed him a bit so when Jason paddled on, he knew there was a right-hander option. Holey mackerel was all I could think as he paddled onto this enormous mound of water. As he drew away from me, the monster increased in size and as his head disappeared down the face I was thinking this was going to be the last time I see him alive! Something about the backwash here makes the wave nearly double in size after take-off and I was quite certain that he had headed to his death down the front of this mountain of water more than three storeys high! For the next 30 seconds my life as a single woman flashed before me - I was sure that my husband was somewhere within that now two-storey high thunderous tumult of whitewater. You cannot imagine my relief when a tiny head popped up above the green lip and then disappeared down again, completely oblivious to my panic, happily surfing his way up and down along the giant wall! He calmly flicked off the end and paddled back out as if it was nothing but the grin on his face said it all. The fact that we didn’t hang around for another also said plenty. The next day we went on a little SUP adventure paddling the couple of kms around to Padang cove. The change here was amazing now that it was Indonesian school holidays - the beach was as crowded as Bondi. To make it as dangerous as possible, Padang Padang was just starting to fire. We snuck our way through to the beach on the right-hander and you can imagine our surprise when we saw our first other SUPer! Lo and behold, it was one of the Aussie Bondi Rescue stars over to help out with lifeguard work during the Indo peak holiday season! Our last couple of days were spent in Kuta shopping, but we did however have a great surf out at half-way reef. We put in near the boat launch area for the outer reef and just paddled out to where we had seen the odd wave pop up in the distance. The water was a bit murky so I wasn’t keen to fall in. We hovered around for about 15 minutes with not much happening at all, then all of a sudden I felt a little surge go under me and I thought ‘ooh, I might have been able to get onto that’. Next surge I paddled and yeehah! A fantastic right-hander just formed up in front of me. We had this break completely to ourselves and it was awesome fun. One minute we were standing on what appeared to be flat water and next thing a head-high, perfectly formed wave just picks you up and rolls on for 150m or more! We played here until our legs burned and the wind picked up, then paddled all the way up to main Kuta beach where we each landed ourselves a set wave all the way in, to a close out at least. What a great way to end a great trip. I’m already looking out for sale fares!

When she’s not globetrotting, Mel McManus runs Jervis Bay Stand Up Paddle. For more information: www.jervisbaystanduppaddle.com.au

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Business ProMoTion

traveL: OPeratOrs

DestInatIOn: MaLDIves

ItInerary: Waves The Maldives: lefts and rights of all descriptions for all manner of surfers in warm, translucent water, the appeal is undeniable.

Louis Harris, owner operator of Liquid Destination’s Nautilus One, and all the crew have been living out the season travelling to the farthest reaches of the outer atolls in search of the best, uncrowded waves for many years now. They operate solely in the Maldives and truly know it like the back of their hand. Louis explains why his guests can just sit back, relax and enjoy the surfing adventure of a lifetime. 96

“Whether you are chasing perfect long walls or big barrels we have seen and surfed them all and are more than happy to share our secrets with our guests. “The amazing thing about this place is the easy take offs and endless offshores that the Maldives has to offer. “Through years of surfing and studying the whole region we feel we know how to put surfers in the right place at the

right time when taking into account each waves complex variables of swell, wind and tidal direction. “What we have also noticed that really appeals to our guests is that with Liquid, you’re only dealing with us and no one else. “From when you make your booking to who picks you up at the airport and transports you to the boat and who charters you around the Maldives, it’s

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THE BOAT: NAUTILUS ONE The Nautilus One is a beautiful hand crafted vessel that was made locally in the Maldives. Although classed as a luxury vessel, it still maintains the feel of a true surf charter boat with plenty of character. Each cabin is air conditioned with its own ensuite. Liquid Destinations cruise with three boats in the fleet at all times. The Nautilus One, a 20m dhoni and a 5m tender. The dhoni is great for pulling up right on the edge of the reef pass - crucial for safety but also for watching your mates surf, taking a break, changing fins or quickly getting a drink of water. Better still, fill up an Esky and go for a night fish in style.

just us taking care of you. There’s no third party. We take full responsibility for delivering the surf trip of a lifetime.” Once on board the crew look after you - from seeing you into the wave of your life, to capturing you on camera - in fact, having a photographer on board has been an important part of Liquid Destination’s package since the

start – getting shots of you and your mates in the waves. Out of the water, they’re feeding you, serving you drinks day or night, whatever the time, you name it. “If your itenery is waves,” Louis explains, “we guarantee to travel unlimited miles to get you to the best waves, every time.”

FEATURES

THE BAR

The Nautilus One is equipped with all the toys; poker chips stacked for a night of gambling, rods and reels, surf racks for your sticks and a portable BOSE sound system.

Enjoy a cold San Miguel on tap or choose from a variety of spirits, cocktails, red and white wines. The Nautilus One is stocked with enough drinks to last a season, so it never runs out.

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98 feet long (30 metres)

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29 feet wide (9 metres)

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10km cruising speed

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150m2 sun deck

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7 AC cabins,with ensuite

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Plasma TV, DVD, CD w/ Ipod

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Surf racks

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GPS, Sonar, VHF radio and mobile phone contact

For more information, or to book a trip, see the Liquid Destination website for all the details. www.liquiddestination.com sep/oct 2012

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WAYNE LYNCH L I M I T E D

E D I T I O N

S U R F B O A R D S

7’2 WIDOW MAKER Swallow tail.

7’10 EVOLUTION

6’10 INVOLVEMENT

1968 - The board that started it all.

1969 - 100% to original, numbered and signed.

100% to original, numbered, signed.

Limited Edition. Only 50 for the world.

Limited Edition. Only 40 for the world.

Ridden in 1969 at Margeret River (Australian Championships)

Wayne designed, made and rode this board in 1970-1973 in Bali. 3-Fin -11 years prior to the Thruster. Only 80 for the world

9’6 GUN Same design, ridden in all of the hot spots around the world. Numbered, signed. Limited Edition. Only 100 for the world.

All above have large Evolution and Involvement Posters, signed and matted. All have a signed Certificate of Authenticity To secure yourself a piece of surfing history, contact Rob on:

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0425 700 648 or email robssurf@tpg.com.au 5/09/12 11:23 AM

BOARDS • SKATE • TESTS • REVIEWS • FASHION

THE SHAPER’S

APPRENTICE

RIMESTER T T S IR F , ID U Q S THE

Proud dad and co-designer, Sam Archer reports on the family’s experience as winners of the Shaper’s Apprentice with their design, The Squid.

The boys, Peter White and the Squid’s beginnings.

WORDS & PHOTOS: SAM ARCHER

When you own your own business and time is a commodity that you don’t have much of, you have to make the most out of every project you take on with your children. Now when my two boys, Ned and Gus, wanted to enter The Shapers Apprentice competition I was all for it and to be honest I could not have thought of a better activity for the three of us to commence. After all, we all love surfing, we all love each others’ company and we all love winning! Little did I know it would give me so much more over the impending projects lifespan. Designing The Squid really did require some thought. Lets be honest here, we had no

experience and no real knowledge of surf board design. We did all the obvious research like: lets go for a surf and think about the design; lets go and look at surfboards in surf shops; lets read smorgasboarder; let’s go for another surf to really make sure we think about the design. In other words – we surfed, talked, and then surfed some more. This project was going to be really tough... As a father, all this surfing and talking with my two boys was just the best outcome I could have hoped for. Peter White extended an invitation to the Classic Malibu shaping bay for a Sunday session to meet and greet and get the Squid into its

first trimester. I say trimester as I am really feeling that this little baby may well be my third child – Neddy, Gussy and Squiddy.

as it was originally drawn making comment, ‘I see no reason why this design will not surf well’. Lets hope so Team Squid!

The boys loved meeting with Peter and may I say it was so refreshing to see Peter interacting with two young surfers, listening to every word and every story about the shaping process.

Looking forward to the second trimester when we go back to the shaping bay or ‘Peter’s Office’, as he calls it, to begin the shaping of the blank - we all can’t wait to be covered in foam shavings and to see how the squid pockets and tail all comes together, and you know the best thing – I get to spend more time with my boys!

Getting the design onto the blank was a freehand experience and showed the boys the importance of checking every little detail from the beginning. We all leant the skill in freehand drawing and also the importance of balance in your design. Peter, to my amazement, commented on how he wanted to make sure we stick to the design

Sambo, Team Squid.

For more on Classic Malibu, visit the website classicmalibu.com

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A LIFEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S WORK We take a rare opportunity to speak to a genuine living legend of the international surfing community - one of the true pioneers - Bill Wallace. WORDS: DAVE SWAN

GREAT MEMORIES: Bill talks about his life and career at his home in Noosa. Photo: Mark Chapman 100

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GEAR: SURF ICON Many have heard of names like Bob McTavish, Dick Van Straalen, Frank Latta and Darrell ‘Rooster’ Dell but who came before them? Who taught the masters? It is a man who shares his namesake with the guardian of Scotland and legendary martyr of independence, William Wallace. William ‘Bill’ Wallace has a place in Australian surfing history like no other as one of our first surfboard manufacturers. Last year he was inducted into the Surfboard Shapers Hall Of Fame in California alongside names like Tom Blake and Greg Noll and rightly so. He is the man I personally believe deserves the greatest accolades in regards to his contribution to Australian surfboard manufacturing. You will never hear an ill word spoken of Bill. He is an absolute gentleman and I recently had the great pleasure and honour of interviewing Bill in his Noosa home.

A BIT OF HISTORY Bill was born in 1926 and grew up in the Sydney suburb of Bronte. As with many teenagers who lived in seaside suburbs he joined the local surf club. When World War II broke out, anyone who wasn’t still at school went off to war. This left Bronte without a surf boat crew. Bill, who was the club’s champion paddler at the time, soon became the sweep of their newly formed surf boat crew. The boys were young and the boat was old and they subsequently ran last in every race for the next few years but they eventually got a new boat and finished on top with Bill and the boys winning the Australian title in 1954. During this time Bill started work in a munitions factory building boats and weapons for the diggers on the front line. In 1942 he made his first surfboard, a 16-foot Toothpick. It took him close to a year to build the board due to the scarcity of materials and the fact he had no one to show him what to do. Bill sold it straight away, and by the early 1950s was building four Toothpicks a week. It was the start of a lifelong passion for this master board builder.

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GEAR: SURF ICON

You opened your first surfboard factory in Brookvale around ‘62 and i believe you had some guys working for you who later turned out to be pretty handy shapers? Yeah we had good shapers. Actually my first employee when I got a factory at Brookvale was Bob McTavish. He came along and said, ‘Do you want a worker?’ and I said, ‘Yeah, when can you start?’ and he came back the same day. He was there for quite a while and there was Darryl Dell, John McElroy. We had four or five shapers. They used to come and go. McTavish eventually worked in nearly all of the boardshops over the years. Dick Van Straalen was there at the same time as them. He wasn’t actually shaping in those days. He was in charge of all the glue ups. I had a glue up machine made and Dick was in charge of that. In the 60s we were getting a lot of work and there was a lot of boards to glue up. We reached a peak of 120 boards a week before coming up to Queensland. I had a magical glasser Lutsig Becelli that could do 4 lots of 6 in a day. They weren’t all clear either, they had colours, he was exceptional. Frank Latter was shaping. He followed me up to Queensland. I think that was the early 70s.

Dave: You were one of the guys who started it all? Bill: Well there were others. I was one of the first that persevered and went on with it. In the early 40s there was Gordon Woods and myself. We were basically the only two for a while. I remember Gordon won a taxicab licence in a ballot. He said to me, ‘I have a taxicab now, you can have all these boards. They are no good to me.’ Mate there was a few. For a brief moment of time I was the only manufacturer of boards. I would have been about twenty years old. So when did you progress to the Okanui? Was it 1957? There was a chap called Peter Lawford, an American actor who brought a Malibu over in ’55, the year before the Olympic Games. That was the first we saw of them. I didn’t get a good look but I heard all about it and that is when we started making Malibus. The original boards the Americans Greg Noll, Tom Zahn and Mike Bright brought over were made out of Balsa. We couldn’t get it. We had to wait about twelve months before we could get Balsa. Whilst we were waiting we made hollowed boards of a similar shape out of plywood - the traditional way we made the Toothpicks, but with a classical fin like the ones the Malibus came with.

“WE CAllEd thEm OkANUIS. BlUEy mAyES CAmE Up WIth NAmE. ‘OkA’ mEANING AUSSIE ANd ‘NUI’ mEANING NEW - thE NEW AUSSIE SURFBOARd.”

We called them Okanuis. Bluey Mayes came up with name. ‘Oka’ meaning Aussie and ‘Nui’ meaning new - the new Aussie surfboard.” That was in ‘57 we started making them. By ‘58 the balsa had arrived and consequently we made the balsa boards for a couple of years until foam came. That was the early 60s. Just when we got the balsa going right, foam came along and we had no end of troubles trying to control this foam. Chemical companies didn’t know how to use it. We were used as guinea pigs but finally we got it right. 102

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When did you wrap up the business? In the late ‘90s before 2000. I was just working from the garage. I was in Rene Street in Noosaville for quite some time. In the recession in the early 90s I managed to lose my factory around the corner in Eumundi Rd. But you continued making your Toothpicks and Okanuis until recently? I decided earlier this year I wasn’t going to do any more. I have had enough now. I am 86. I have run out of strength to stand up all day and I had trouble getting materials and the right timber. What do you make of the industry today? I’d hate to be doing it now. The regulations for one thing are over the top and the Chinese imports have made a severe impact on the local guys. And what do you make of today’s board designs? When I look at the boards of today, particularly the shortboards, they all look identical. Of course they have their subtle differences. But then again, when you see what surfers can do in the big surf today its quite unbelievable. What you see now and what you saw in the ‘60s, it’s totally out of this world. The riding of the big waves with the degree of skill and the aerial stuff is amazing. But with surfboards, the blanks today and the way they are finished, there is very little shaping to do. You buy a blank and it is nearly all done. We used to have to shape a solid block and then bend your rocker into it. The blanks were much bulkier then what they are today. There was a lot more shaping involved. So there is no room for further discovery? You can never say that. It’s just got to a stage where they haven’t changed much for the last ten years. The boards have pretty well reached the optimum. Of the shapers who worked for you, were there any particular standouts? They were all very good shapers. John McElroy was one of the longest serving. He stayed with me longer than any of the others and his boards were perfect. The same as McTavish, he was outrageous really. He was so innovative with different boards and different shapes. Some of them didn’t work. Customers would come back and say, “Hey Bob, this board just doesn’t go.” He’d change the fin or change something or the other. A famous exercise he did where he really changed the board dramatically was when he put the fin on the other end of the board and the bloke came back and said, ‘It works good now’.

TOP: Bill with Tex - friend and avid surfboard collector. LEFT: Bill with Ken Swan - an early incarnation of the team rider, Bill used to make all of Ken’s racing Mals in the late ‘50s and early ‘60s. BELOW: While best known for the Okanui timber boards, there are many fine examples of Bill Wallace’s foam work around today. Below and on the opposite page are two single fins from Tex’s private collection. Photos: Pat Quirk

McTavish was forever trying stuff. That is why he did so well. There was a lot of trial and error in board making. What do you think the guys might say about you? (laughs) I’d think they would have some tolerance for me. McTavish has said I was the best boss he has ever had. Why he said that I don’t know. I do see them occasionally and get on quite well with them all. I made a Toothpick some years ago for McTavish. His wife said it’s the only board he is allowed to put in the house. You taught them all how to shape. In a way, I wouldn’t say I taught them all. The scope was there for anyone to learn. You could look at these things and then you could do the same or better.

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GEAR: SHAPERS Photo: Mitchell Rae

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“IT’S A DIRTY DUSTY OCCUPATION, BUT I LOVE THE FLEXI TIME - WORK WHEN YOU WANT, SURF WHEN YOU CAN. I COULDN’T SEE MYSELF DOING ANYTHING ELSE. I LOVE SHAPING BOARDS. YOU ARE AT THE CORE OF THE CREATION.”

WORDS: DAVE SWAN

An apprentice to master board builder Mitchell Rae of Outer Island Surfboards for some ten years and he still considers he has someway to go with his apprenticeship; Isaac Harry is not your usual young man pursuing a shaping career. Born in Armidale, his father was a keen surfer, always heading off to the coast. His family later moved to the small country town of Urunga just south of Coffs Harbour. By age fourteen Isaac too had fully caught the surfing bug and was pretty much surfing everyday before and after school. It was a few years later he became known to Mitchell Rae. Isaac was one for fixing his own dings and pretty soon was doing them for all his mates as well. Mitchell recognised Isaac’s skill with his hands and soon after that he was apprentice to one of the world’s most renowned shapers. Isaac describes what it is like to work with Mitchell. “He is a good boss and he is fair but if stuff ain’t perfect, he won’t put up with it. So you do your best job. I have been trained up from scratch and learnt a lot. I have learnt the right way, not the quick way, from start to finish – resin tints, polish, hand foiled fins, the works.” “There is always something new to learn. You think you have it mastered with say glassing and you get a new pale of resin and things go off a bit faster, you have to adapt. All the pigment colour work we have been doing recently is fresh and exciting.” As for computer shaping, Isaac explains why he has never touched a computer in his field of work to date. “It doesn’t really benefit your education. It is a bit of a shortcut. It may be good to fine-tune things maybe. But learning how to handshape is where the finesse comes in.”

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“THERE WILL ALWAYS BE ROOM FOR SPECIALIST BOARD MAKERS. FOR GUYS WHO WANT BOARDS THAT LAST.” Isaac on the future

Working alongside Mitchell for so long means they have formed a very close bond. Whilst he admits they have locked horns occasionally, and had their ‘fun moments’, you can see Isaac’s absolute admiration and respect for Mitchell. His eyes well up when he talks of their friendship. “We have a pretty close working relationship. Mitch is like a second father albeit a fair bit looser and wilder.” When quizzed about the future of board building and whether he will one day finish his apprenticeship, Isaac is upbeat. “I guess Mitch has mentioned that one day I would be air to the throne because his kids are into other things. It would be a shame to see the things that he has done die out with him. “As for the future of board building, it is a hard one to pick. I have seen a huge change in the industry in the last five or six years. The imports haven’t really hurt us because our boards are above that entry market. The guys that are buying our boards would never even look at a Chinese board. “I don’t think it will be a lost art. There will always be room for specialist board makers. For guys who want boards that last. You don’t want to shell out this money for a boat trip and have your board break in the first few days because the swell is up.” With regard to crafting the beautiful balsa boards that Mitchell has also become famous for, this is an art Isaac is yet to try his hand at. “I don’t have the skills just yet for the balsa boards. It is a fair investment in materials plus Mitch has this very unique approach to their construction. He bends the timbers and builds the board under tension. You pick them up and they are just alive. I have seen how it is done and am confident with Mitch’s guidance I could do it. Maybe that is the next ten years.”

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GEAR: SHAPERS Photo: Lincoln Head, courtesy of Outer Island sep/oct 2012

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GEAR: SHAPERS

There are benefits of surf travel in the name of research...

ABOVE: One day near Isaac’s home. Photo: lincoln Head - courtesy of Outer Island. LEFT: Isaac, Wayan Jett and Ni Luh Luna. BELOW: Isaac and the other woman. Photo: Mitchell Rae.

Mitchell had always encouraged Isaac to travel. Being a big fan on Indo, that was his first recommendation and with Isaac having a grandfather who was a former sailor who had retired on the small island of Ambon, due north of East Timor, it was a good opportunity for a family reunion. “My grandfather and I used to meet up in Bali. Still do. The first time I went was a year after the first bombing and it was really quiet. I surfed Kuta reef for a few days with hardly anyone. I was one of the first guys to start surfing Keramas before the highway went that far. There are still a lot of semi uncrowded waves if you know where to look. “I had clocked up about four trips to Indonesia in quick succession when I met my future wife there, Luna. I was introduced to her at a friend’s child’s birthday party. She was a nanny for another of the parents. We just got on really well. Her English was good and we struck a friendship and used to keep in touch by email. “There was initially no romance. It was a good three or four years before we got interested in one another. I was going back and forth and she had been out here. “We met in April 2004 and have now been married three years and have a two year old boy, Wayan Jett. He rockets around the house like one. He’s fearless in the water and he is only two. Life is good.”

For more of Isaac’s work with Outer Island Surfboards, see the website: www.outerislandsurfboards.com 108

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BE BRIGHT! NOT BORING!

Get GASfins multicoloured plugs, any combo, any colours put into your next board. Make a statement and fight bland and boring with high-quality plugs, fins and hardware that is

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GET GAS COLOUR UNDER YOUR BOARD Ask your local shaper for GASfins PROUDLY USED BY SURFBOARD MANUFACTURERS ALL DOWN THE EAST COAST OF AUSTRALIA AND INTERNATIONALLY.

SHAPERS: Get in touch to try GASfins yourself. Quality and performance for customers without the price tag for you. 0417 980 524 â&#x20AC;˘ gasfins@gmail.com

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WATCH OUT, DAD! When your dad’s a bit of an eccentric part-surfboard-builder-partartist, it’s quite likely a bit of that might trickle through in the genes... 12-year-old Curtis Riddell’s dad Ralph - the winner of the inaugural Art of Surfing competition on the Gold Coast - has most definitely passed down the love of creating a perfect mix of art and surfboards.

Like father, like son...

Curtis talks about his board-shaping... WHATS YOUR FAVOURITE SURFING SPOT? Ahh, my favourite spot is the Farm, but my local spot is Snapper Rocks.

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO MAKE YOUR OWN BOARD? Going to work with dad and watching him in his shaping bay make surfboards all the time looked fun so I wanted to try it out for myself.

DO YOU PLAN ON CONTINUING MAKING YOUR OWN BOARDS IN THE FUTURE? Yeah, I will do it in the future for myself and mates. But, I’m not sure about for a job yet.

HOW DID YOU FIND IT? Yeah, I found it really easy.

THANKS CURTIS. LATER. (laughs) Okay. Bye.

WHAT TYPE OF BOARD IS IT? I made a thruster, and did my own art work on the back. HOW DID YOU DO IT? I hand shaped it. Computer shapes are just like cheating... (laughs) It takes the fun out of the whole experience of shaping a board.

The board works! Curtis on the test run. 110

SO, WHERE ARE YOU FROM? I used to live in Wollongong, but about six years ago I moved up to Queensland, to Coolangatta.

WHAT WAS THE HARDEST BIT ABOUT SHAPING A BOARD? The nose, because it was a stringerless blank. WHERE DID YOU MAKE IT? In my dads shaping bay.

Proud sister Lilli (8) helps show off the final work of art Photos: Ralph Riddell

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS 5’11” x 20” x 2 ½”

6’2” x 19 ½” x 2 3/8”

4’10” x 21 ½” x 3 3/8”

ZULU FISH

TIM’S DECKCHAIR

4’10 PACEMAKER

New Twin Fish with option of small stabiliser, slight nose kick, single to light double and v through the tail. Tried and tested.

Performance shortboard with a little more volume , but not too thick. Fairly deep single concave.

For fat, facey waves or little zippers, this board suits the jaded shortboarder or amped longboarder - anyone who wants to draw some new lines, from intermediate to hero.

Bronte Bampton | LIQUID STIX

CONSTRUCTION

Surf Blank foam - machine shaped, hand finished with polyester resin and Shapers STF-X fins.

SHAPER COMMENT

Good in all surf, 1-6ft, excellent for big, fat surf. Suits all, from novice to experienced.

Paul Carson | THE FACTORY

CONSTRUCTION

3 or 4

Handshaped Surfblank, funky colours designed by Suzy. PU construction. Quad or thruster.

SHAPER COMMENT

Made a few boards like this lately - all the performance and a little more floatation.

by Mark Rabbidge

CONSTRUCTION

4 or 5

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THE FACTORY SURFBOARDS 17 Allen Street Caloundra QLD 4551 Ph: 07 5492 5838 factorysurf@southernphone.com.au thefactorysurfboards.com.au

THE REARDO

by Tony Dempsey | UNDERGROUND

Designed for top aerial surfer David Reardon-Smith, this board gives you higher speed at the face of the wave, a higher running line and more power in the turns. This is the board Reardo won the MP Classic on and charged him up for the World Tour.

Made here in Ulladulla. Don’t sell out our heritage. Use your head buy from an Aussie (us, or someone else will do) and keep your freedom of choice alive.

CONSTRUCTION

SHAPER COMMENT

Suits beginner to advanced surfers. Available in 5’0 to 6’8.

RABBIDGE SURF DESIGN Ph: 02 4456 4038 M: 0427 767 176 Bendalong, NSW markrabbidge.com Email: sales@markrabbidge.com

UNDERGROUND SURF 3/77 Noosa Dve, Noosa Heads Ph: 07 5455 4444 kirra@undergroundsurf.com.au undergroundsurf.com.au Like us on Facebook

Ride with 4 x flexy custom fins or 5 for extra options.

LIQUID STIX SURFBOARDS Moana, South Australia Ph: 0407 606 685 E: liquidstix@bigpond.com www.liquidstix.com.au Available @ MCS & Preece’s

6’0” x 19” x 2 3/8”

3 or 4

PU pro blank and resins, custom handshaped turbo concave, made in Australia. Tri-fin or quad + 1.

SHAPER COMMENT

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RILEY GOOD

We’ve always admired Mark Riley’s boards. Not only for how they perform and feel in the water, but for the fact they are near bloody indestructible. Now, he‘s added another dimension to them - some incredible new finishes that really set the designs off even more. When Michele, Mark Riley’s glasser, called through the Sunshine Coast on his way north to check on the progress of the Balsa trees they had planted a while back, he showed me a few of their latest creations. Needless to say I had to hide my wallet from myself (that’s easy as I have a pretty bad short-term memory) and take a cold shower afterwards.

MICHELE Glasser and longhaul driver

NO STRINGER QUAD FISH This unique blue wood stain sets this board apart from the rest. 5’6” x 20” x 2 5/8“ with a flat bottom laying out to double scoop through to the fins.

AUSSIE TRIPLE STRINGER THRUSTER This is 2 of 20. Great colours and strength in the board with a 2-year warranty (you snap it we replace it).

THRUSTER 6’3”x18 5/8“ x 2 ¾ “ with a computer-cut 3D logo with resin filled lettering and thin 5mm cedar bands to give it fast return and snap capabilities.

AUSSIE QUAD FISH MINI-SIMMONS/ VALLY This little pocket rocket is 5 ½ “ x 20” x 2” with a funky Walnut stain cross. Set twin handshaped keels to motor this along. Weighs only 3kgs.

This is a limited edition - 1 of 20 - Aussiegrown balsa boards, only possible because of cyclone Yasi. This has a recycled foam core with laminated Australian balsa deck bottom and rails.

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS 3.

5’9” x 18 ¾” x 2 ½”

6’0” x 18 ½” x 2 3/8”

FLEXTAIL

SHORTBOARD

by Jed Done | BUSHRAT

For those interested in the flextail concept, I have made boards available to demo at: • Wally’s Marcoola Beach • Dripping Wet Bondi • Finbox Thirroul • Offshore Moruya • Bushrat Merimbula • Zak’s Melbourne

CONSTRUCTION

Twin stringer. Carbon fibre flextail, resin tint, pigment pinline and finish coat. 4WFS custom quad fins - fully adjustable.

SHAPER COMMENT

Not a gimmick, this suits clean surﬁng. It’s fun, loves to carve and travel fast. Test it, ﬁnd out.

7’0” x 21 ½” x 2 5/8”

Custom Sizes

by Jed Done | BUSHRAT

Andrew Wells | GROWN SURFBOARDS

ALL ROUNDER

THAT’S NOT ALL

For anyone who doesn’t want to replace their board every 6 months, here’s a performance shortboard designed to last more than a year.

Traditional outline blended with modern rockers. Plenty of ﬂoat and easily skips over any fat sections, maintaining speed and drive. Additional weight in a timber board gives a smooth flow in the water

1. THE CUTTING EDGE (FINLESS)

CONSTRUCTION

Choice of stringer setup and glass weights. This one is twin stringer with balsa nose and tail blocks. Glass 6 x 4oz deck and 6oz bottom. 4WFS custom quad ﬁns for ﬁne tuning.

SHAPER COMMENT “A normal Bushrat board?

I didn’t think he did normal boards? Looks like it would go sick, and last too! I might get one in two months when I crease this popout I just got.“

BUSHRAT SURFBOARDS Merimbula NSW P: 0409 813 431 E: jed@bushrat.com www.bushrat.com

ww.facebook.com/public/Jed-Done-Bushrat-Surfboards

CONSTRUCTION

1 or 1+2

Hollow, handcrafted from recycled and plantation grown timber. Resin tints available.

SHAPER COMMENT

Each Grown board takes over 30hrs to handcraft and is unique. These boards look great, they surf great and will give you years of enjoyment.

GROWN SURFBOARDS Lennox Head P: 0407 889 049 sales@grownsurfboards.com.au grownsurfboards.com.au

Glenn ‘Cat’ Collins | SURF 1770

A precision design with an offset tail, which gives many options for anyone wishing to experiment. Freddy Krueger Jr.

2. THE SPOON (FINLESS)

Pure green, made from the last remaining 300-year-old beechwood/cedar for this project, The Spoon ﬂoats well. Purpose-built holes allow extra water ﬂow. Lightweight design works best at the”Pot”in Noosa.

3. FORK YOU (CLUELESS)

The true future of design and technology. After 25 years of water tank testing, thousands of dollars in the endless pursuit for the ultimate everything, it didn’t ﬂoat and sank to the bottom, never to be seen again. Prof Fistenshaften.

Surfboards and surfing props E: surf1770@bigpond.com www.surf1770noosa.com sep/oct 2012

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DECK

BOTTOM

SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS GEAR: BOARDS PHOTO: Cory White. mrblanc.com Supplied by Jesse Watson

LOGGING THE HOURS FIVE MINUTES WITH JESSE WATSON

SO JESSE, LOGS: DOES SIZE REALLY MATTER? Size always matters, you can pretend with yourself whatever you like... But in the cold, cold night, you can’t escape the truth of it. Wait... Are we talking longboards here, or what? Either way, size matters. Bigger boards have more inertia, more glide, more flow. Weight helps with that too. Don’t be afraid. WILL THEY HAVE ME SQUEALING LIKE A PIG? I could get you squealing like a pig. They are a lot of fun, gets you surfing on days you wouldn’t bother normally getting wet and gives you an excuse to get your retro flair on.

hing, Matc on fin glass-

THE MOD LOG 9’6” X 23” X 3”

by Jesse Watson BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS

WHAT MAKES THEM SUIT THE TRADITIONAL STYLE OF SURFING AND NOSERIDING SO WELL? They have their roots firmly in traditional design principles, but they’ve cut their teeth, had the hard knocks and come up to speed. You’re keeping what works of the old, and blending it with what’s better of the new... Or as in the immortal words of the Hitcher: “combining elements of the past and elements of the future to create something not quite as good as either.” WILL I HAVE TO DON A SAILOR CAP AND GROW A PENCIL MOUSTACHE TO RIDE ONE? Sailor caps are for sailors. Pencil moustaches are for Melissa Etheridge concert-goers in very sensible shoes. But yeah, you should grow one... Help you stand out from the pack... (disclaimer: I have a few very close friends who are Melissa Etheridge concert-goers).

“COMBINING ELEMENTS OF THE PAST AND ELEMENTS OF THE FUTURE TO CREATE SOMETHING NOT QUITE AS GOOD AS EITHER.” THE HITCHER, THE MIGHTY BOOSH

Ideal for up to head-high sliders, this baby suits hepcats to kooks, kicks flicks and hanging heels. The Mod Log model is a modern pig/involvement-style sled, but with modernised rockers and foils for the logger who wants to noseglide and whipturn like it aint’ no thang.

CONSTRUCTION

Foam and fibreglass, this board is built strong with a 6/4oz deck and 6/4oz bottom. It features stylish vintage tartan fabric and proper resin pinlines to really set off the cool blue resin. Finished off with a wetrub and an old skool glass leash loop, this is a solid mix of the old and new. The fin is a matching, custom glass-on Stage IV “the Hook” template.

SHAPER COMMENT A modern sled for the discerning kook, traditional in looks - but a real hotrod under your feet. Long rides on the grill and crazy fast cutbacks. My number 1 log.

BLACK APACHE SURFBOARDS Ph: 0410 419 791

blackapachesurfboards@live.com.au blackapachesurfboards.com.au 116

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9’4” x 23 5/8” x 3 1/3”

THE PERFORMER DEWEY WEBER SURFBOARDS

Dewey’s wide template has been used to make an exact replica of the 1967 design. Comes with a 10 inch Hatchet Fin and a Dewey Weber t-shirt

CONSTRUCTION

8oz Volane glass top and bottom.

COMMENT - SHEA WEBER

9’1” x 22 ¼” x 2 5/8”

9’6” x 22 ½” x 3 ¼”

PERFORMANCE

THE 9FT6 CRUISER

Wayne LONGBOARD byMcKewen

A refined lightweight longboard for the new-school approach to riding longboards. 9’1” noserider is also available.

CONSTRUCTION

BOX + 2

Burford PU blank 4 x 4oz deck and 4oz bottom. 10”box set up with FCS stabilizers.

Dewey designed this board to meet the needs of every surfer in all surf conditions. It’s easy to paddle and catch waves on and it turns on a dime. It’s the world’s best noserider and with the refined rail line and bottom rocker, it will enhance your riding experience.

SHAPER COMMENT

Distributed by Last Wave Originals Australia, Marcoola, QLD Ph: 0400 497 534 www.deweyweber.com.au

Stores at Coolangatta, Currumbin, Burleigh Heads Ph: 07 5535 0288 www.mtwoodgee.com.au Join us on Facebook

Shaping high performance shortboards for the last 25 years, Wayne has been working with local longboard rippers on a design suited to modern longboarding. The result - a fast, maneuverable board for most conditions.

8’4” x 21 ¾¨ x 3¨

‘62 MERRICK

by Gary Keen (You could be next!)

by Neil ‘Chok’ Oke | OKE SURFBOARDS

Hand built by a passionate surfer with a creative itch to scratch, this board looks fantastic and rides perfectly. Give us a call to scratch yours!

An easy-rider short longboard. Plenty of volume throughout gives the board a traditional longboard feel, yet it’s much easier to throw around due to less length and pulled-in tail.

CONSTRUCTION

Paulownia and Red Cedar strip planking over a wooden spar and rib skeleton. 9” Bamboo rake fin, but choose your own set up.

SHAPER COMMENT

You! Build your own timber shortboard, longboard, fish or SUP. Disclaimer: No responsibility is taken by Surfing Green or any of its affiliates for wives/ husbands/girlfriends/boyfriends annoyance at lack of quality time spent with aforementioned partner during the construction of your board.

SURFING GREEN Coolum Beach, QLD Mobile: 0412 042 811 surfinggreen.com.au

CONSTRUCTION

SHAPER COMMENT Hope you love this Jacqui. I know Shannon will!

OKE SURFBOARDS 1/1-7 Canterbury Rd, Braeside, VIC, 3195 Ph: 03 9587 3553 www.okesurfboards.com sep/oct 2012

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1+2

Handshaped PU Ocean Foam blank, 4 x 4 x 6 glassing, with box and Speeedfins sides.

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SHAPER’S PROMOTION

GEAR: BOARDS 6’2” x 20” x 2 3/8”

THE MACHETE

7’11” x 23 ½” x 4 1/8”

5’11” x 19 ¼” x 2 ¼” x 28L

by Craig Rees | PRIMITIVE SURF

by Ralph Riddell

THE F.C.

WHATSNEXT

The latest model in our everexpanding range of boards is a blend of two popular models - the Scimitar and the Blunt. The front of the board is a little wider for increased planing and stability, similar to the Blunt. The rear third of the board has been pulled in to increase the drive similar to that of the Scimitar. Fins are M5 or M7 thruster.

The 7’11” FC is a scaled up shortboard with a single to double concave BUT it has more volume than most 9’2” mals. Suits: big boys to very big boys or FCs...

Tried fishes, funboards and all kinds? Trying to find that feeling of pure stoke riding a wave like you always dream of? Here’s the board you need. It’s Whats Next for you in your search for the ideal board for every day at home and in your board bag for that boat trip!

SHAPER COMMENT

It’s a good all-round board for the intermediate surfer in 1-5ft conditions. The Machete will let you gain speed easy and throw it around without feeling slippery off the bottom when there’s a bit of push in the surf.

601 Nudgee Rd, Nundah, QLD P: 07 3266 1001 E: craig@primitivesurf.com www.primitivesurf.com Join us on Facebook 118

Yes, 4 1 /8” !

SHAPER COMMENT

EIGHT FOOTER

Dave Verrall | DIVERSE

So, if the kids are sick of seeing you sitting on the couch, halfway through your fourth beer, on about how you used to rip it up in the 80s, but that was 30 years and 30kg ago, but you don’t want to ride a mal... All is not lost my friend! The FC could be for you! Give me a call or you can see this puppy at COOLY SURF, Coolangatta.

CONSTRUCTION

8” x 22” x 3” Leighton Clark | CLARK SURFBOARDS

Available in Dynocore™ and yes, this one’s made in traditional materials.

SHAPER COMMENT

This board can surf and suits all family members...

CONSTRUCTION

3 or 5

Gloss or matt finish. We can do custom artwork or digital graphics on any board.

SHAPER COMMENT

WE LISTEN, WE TALK and WE CREATE a board to suit your requirements. Custom boards are our speciality. Love to hear about what you are riding and what you want to ride.

Let your Ride Decide…!

RALPH RIDDELL SHAPES 12/48 Machinery Dr, Tweed Heads Ph: 0412 828 848 retroralph@three.com.au

DIVERSE SURFBOARDS 476 Gold Coast Hwy, Tugun, QLD 4224 Ph: 07 5598 4848 dave@diversesurf.com.au diversesurf.com.au

CLARK SURFBOARDS NOW IN A NEW LOCATION Units 7 and 8, 9 Chapman Road Hackham SA 5163 E: leightonclark01@yahoo.com.au M: 0422 443 789 Available at www.onboardsurf.com.au

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WORDS: DAVE SWAN

It happened whilst attempting an aerial maneuver. It might have been the final spin of a rodeo clown or maybe... Truth be told, I was just trying to turn and managed to flip it, landing elbowfirst on the underbelly. The result? A golf ball sized hole. Now I should clarify this is no ordinary board. This is the mighty, flying Stumpy Duck that I personally forged from scratch in edition 4 of smorgasboarder. I obviously hit it with unbelievable force to crack such an amazing glass job... The pleasing thing was, despite the extreme unlikelihood it could ever be recreated, and the fact even the most advanced shaping machine could not replicate it, the Duck was relatively easy to fix. Paul Carson of The Factory Surfboards at Caloundra helped me out. Okay - he did most of it and I just watched, but it was good to see a pro in action. And this is how itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s done:

GEAR: REPAIRS

DINGS

The bane of a good surf: damaging your board, especially when it means your session is done. Over the next few pages we show how the pros fix those holes, fractures and cracks, and look at a few options for you to do your own repairs at home.

SHOT DUCK

STEPS TO REPAIRING A STANDARD FIBREGLASS PU BOARD

Next, lightly brush on a filler coat using the same resin/catalyst mix as before. The smoother you brush it on the less work you have when it comes to sanding it back. Be sure to stay within your initial sanded area otherwise it will flake away later creating more work. 7. Leave this for half a day then sand with 80 grit sandpaper. Use an orbital sander and/ or sanding block. Be careful not to sand through your repair.

6. 1 & 2. Sand around the ding with 35 grit sandpaper and then 60 grit

3. Chop up some fibreglass. Mix it in with some resin and catalyst (catalyst is only about 2% of the mix) and fill the hole about half way with the bog in one step.

8. Wet rub (water and fine sandpaper) with 240 grit, than 400 grit, than 800 grit. Spend around a minute on each paper. The first two steps remove the excess and the third removes the scratches. 9. Grab a polishing compound like you would use on your car and polish away. Now, all you need is get back to the beach.

4. Let that start to go off (start to set) 5. Second step, cut some fibreglass cloth marginally wider than the hole. 6. Fill the rest of the hole with the bog and apply the cloth. Roll in the resin and make sure the cloth is soaked.

7. ABOVE: Paul doing the hard work (again) so that Dave can take the credit for it.

Note: Why two steps? If you fill open dings like this in one hit you will come back 20 mins later and find air bubbles in the mix. A two-step process lessens the likelihood. Leave this now for a few hours.

ABOVE: With rail fractures, create a well around the ding with tape as shown and follow the same process. sep/oct 2012

Sep2012_Smorgas_Repairs.indd 119

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PUTTY IN YOUR HANDS STEPS TO A TEMPORARY REPAIR OF A DING ON AN EPOXY SURFBOARD

Damage to an epoxy board is a different kettle of fish when it comes to repairs... With some insight from Rex Roubin, of Epoxy Board Repairs, here’s how to keep yourself going until you can get your board fixed properly. Firstly, identify what type of ding it is. If it has cracked the ‘outer shell’ and water can seep into the foam it needs to be fixed immediately. With high-end epoxy surfboards that use closed cell foam, this is less of an issue but it is best addressed immediately to be safe. 1 & 2. Prep the ding. Remove all wax and any excess broken glass around the ding. Sand it to help the putty bond with the board. Don’t worry about drying out the foam. The point of the repair is to prevent further water ingress, so the most important thing is to get a proper bond with the skin of the board.

You may be somewhere completely remote; you may be on the road; or just nowhere near any of the great repair guys listed across on the other page... Sometimes it’s just not possible to get to a professional surfboard repair guy, so it’s pure gold to know how to do a patch job yourself. Here are some products and guides to help you get a handle on it!

RUDY’S INSTANT DING REPAIR KIT

5. The putty will cure, and the board will be watertight limiting further damage. You should be able to get back in the water within an hour, especially in hot conditions. NOTE: This is a quick fix repair so when you can, get it to your nearest professional ding repairer to be fixed properly.

FANCY YOURSELF HANDY? GET SOME CRED AND TRY YOUR OWN REPAIR

3. Open your epoxy ding dough, peel away the wrapper and pinch off a section between your fingers, enough to fill the ding. Knead the dough between your fingers. 4. As the two components within it mix, it will start to turn white. When it does this, press it into the ding. Be sure not to leave any air bubbles within the dough or within the board. Use plenty of force to push the putty into the ding, and into contact with the surrounding abraded area. Smooth out the putty with your fingers to an area slightly bigger than the ding.

DO IT YOURSELF

If you want a watertight repair, literally in seconds, this is your kit. • Dig out any loose fibreglass or foam from the ding, clean up with a bit of sandpaper • Pour the white powder into the ding (no, the kit’s not from Columbia) • Put a couple of drops of liquid onto the powder... • It sets in seconds • Rough sand, smooth sand, done It’s that easy and quick. The kit comes with the magic powder and liquid, sandpaper, and - for bigger dings - strips of fibreglass cloth. $39.95. For more info: gasfins@gmail.com

A SIMPLE TRAVEL REPAIR KIT

(Pack these in with your board, not in your cabin luggage!) •

1 x stick of epoxy putty

•

1 x 80 grit sanding disk - fold it in half for strong accurate sanding.

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Powder, drop, sand, surf...

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DING REPAIRS BUSTED YOUR BOARD? GET IT FIXED HERE...

AGNES WATER/1770

BYRON BAY

REEF 2 BEACH

Mon-Sat, 9-5pm, Sun,10-4pm

07 4974 9072

Mon-Fri 8am - 5pm Sat 10am - 4pm, Sun 10am - 2pm

MOFFAT BEACH

EPOXY BOARD REPAIRS By appointment

0427 019 420

PRO SURFBOARD REPAIR SECRETS REVEALED DVD AND REPAIR KIT If you’re like me and have difficulty following instructions, a DVD is the shot. This one is an absolute cracker and shows you everything you need to know to repair your board, step by step. It covers:

THE FACTORY SURFBOARDS

Mon, Wed-Friday 9am-5pm, Saturday 8am-12pm

(07) 5492 5838

SLS SURFBOARDS 0424 314 183

•

Sanding, finishing, polishing

07 5455 4444

•

Matt finishes, gloss finishes

BRISBANE

•

Colour matching

•

Shatter repairs

•

Nose repair, tail repair and fin chops

7 days, 9am - 5pm

FGI resin with Soltek solar-activated catalyst. Basically this stuff is all ready to roll. When you’ve finished your ding repair, you can be back in the water a couple of hours later

•

Q-Cell

•

Fibreglass cloth

•

Epoxy two-part glue (for epoxy repairs)

•

80,120 and 180 grit sandpaper

•

320, 800 and 1200 wet and dry sandpaper

Mon-Fri 8:30-5:30pm, Thurs 8:30am - 8pm, Sat 8:30 - 4pm, Sun 10am -4pm

07 3266 1001

SOUTHPORT

KOMA

Mon-Fri 9am -5pm, Sat 9am -12pm

0402 863 763

MIAMI 0409 727 735

DIVERSE

07 5598 4848

0432 361 791 02 6681 3142

0450 556 233

Seven days, 9am - 5pm

0437 246 848

PHILLIP ISLAND

ISLAND SURF SHOP - COWES 7 days, 9-5pm

03 5952 2578

02 6645 8362

ADELAIDE

TOMBSTONE SURFBOARDS

WALLBRIDGE SURFBOARDS

BUDGEWOI

BUCKO’S SURFBOARD REPAIRS & RESTORATIONS

Mon - Fri, 12.30pm - 5.30pm Sat 12.30pm - 5pm

08 8376 4914

MID COAST

THE DING KING

0422 304 078

CLARK SURFBOARDS

LONG JETTY

0422 443 789

SANDLOCK SURFBOARDS

Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm

SEAFORD

Mon - Fri 9am - 4pm, Sat 9am -12pm

LIQUID STIX

WOLLONGONG

Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm Sat & Sun 9am - 3pm

0437 032 614

SKIPP SURFBOARDS

SURFBOARDS

0407 606 685

LONSDALE

MID COAST SURF

JERVIS BAY

Call us for a quality repair

INNER FEELING SURFBOARDS

RAGLAN, NZ

02 4441 6756

RAGLAN LONGBOARDS

NAROOMA

DSC SURFBOARDS

08 8384 5522

7 days, 10am to 5pm except winter - catch us if you can

+64 7 825 0544

Seven days, 9 - 5pm

KIRRA

GRB SURFBOARDS

0424 867 962

BELLARINE PENINSULA

0408 701 467

ROUSA SURFBOARDS

TWEED HEADS

0403 693 333

Mon-Sat, 10am-5pm,

FULL FORCE Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm

07 5524 2933

FIX BROKEN BOARDS?

Promote your repair business for $15 an edition. Call 0401 345 201 sep/oct 2012

Sep2012_Smorgas_Repairs.indd 121

03 5261 6077

PLANK SHOP

Seven days, 9am - 5pm

CURRUMBIN Open hours 9am to 5pm

www.surferstextbook.com.au

THE SURFERS SHED

02 4228 8878

Mon-Fri 8:30am - 5:30pm Sat & Sun 9-4pm

Mon - Fri 10am - 4pm Sat 10am - 2pm

LENNOX HEAD QUICKFIX SURFBOARD REPAIRS

Mon-Fri 9am - 5:30pm Thurs 9am - 7:30pm Sat 9am - 4pm, Sun 10am - 4pm

TUGUN

DIRECTION SURFBOARDS

A great source of information when attempting all manner of board repairs is The Surfer’s Textbook. It is packed with handy hints on what you need and how to go about it along with everything else imaginable to do with surfboard shaping. $79.95

Seven days, 9am - 5pm

02 6685 8778

Mon-Fri 10am - 5.30pm Weekends by appointment

Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 12pm

THE SURFER’S TEXTBOOK

Mon - Fri 9am - 5pm, Sat 9am - 1pm

0432 330 826

DINO’S DING REPAIRS

DVD $32.95, Repair Kit $37.95, DVD & Repair Kit $62.95 www.thesurfguru.com.au

TORQUAY

STONKER

Tues - Fri 9am - 4pm, Sat 9am - 12pm

PRIMITIVE SURF

The DVD is accompanied by a repair kit including: •

UNDERGROUND SURF

03 9416 7384

MC SURF DESIGNS

YAMBA

NOOSA

Epoxy repairs and glassing tips

Mon - Fri 10am - 6pm, Sat 10am - 5pm

0431 740 940

Mon - Fri 10am-5pm

Mon, Wed, Fri 11- 5pm, Sat 8 - 12pm

•

DR DING

SURFBOARD REPAIRS

THORNBURY

ZAK SURFBOARDS

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INVOLVED & EVOLVED We discuss the past, present and future of surfing with Victorian surfing legend, Wayne Lynch. WORDS: DAVE SWAN

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LATEST: LEGEND Revered by the general surf community and almost worshipped as a god-like figure amongst Victorian surfers, Wayne Lynch was at the forefront of surfing’s transition from longboards to shortboards in the late sixties. His influence on surfing remains a constant but truth be told tough, I personally knew little about his background...

D ED

Now for those who think I have just committed the most disrespectful form of blasphemy, I admit my knowledge of surf history is limited. It’s developing through the pages of smorgasboarder, but still has a way to go. For those uneducated surfers like myself, Wayne Lynch was a talented goofyfooter born in the coastal town of Lorne on Victoria’s Surf Coast. He is widely considered to be a true ‘soul surfer’. His super smooth surfing featured in films such as Paul Witzig’s Evolution in 1969 and Sea of Joy in 1971. Wayne has often been described as the inventor of vertical surfing, drawing lines on waves that hadn’t been seen before and whilst no slouch on the competitive surf scene (he won four Australian junior titles in a row from 1967 to 1970 and competed in several world contests) he was recognised more for his pure love of surfing. Through the years, he has also developed a huge following as a surfboard master craftsman. On finding out more about Wayne and talking with him, I now can understand the admiration and respect he commands. I asked Wayne whether he was aware of what high regard he is held. “It is a funny thing you say that. Someone else said that to me a while back and it sat me back on my pants. I don’t live in a way that brings that to my attention. I have never felt very comfortable with celebrity. I have never liked the self-promotion that comes along with that.

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I always step away if I can because plain and simply it sets up a conflict within me. I don’t feel comfortable. It’s not natural and not how I like to live. “As for my influence on surfing, all I can say is I guess it’s because I have been around for so long and lived through the evolution of surfing. Being a shaper as well, you stay involved and are still contributing towards the development of surfing as opposed to say a contest surfer. I think that makes a difference.” Wayne makes an interesting point. There are no longer surfer/shapers at the elite level today, as in his competitive days. “It is one of the things pro surfing seems to have changed. There is possibly not the same involvement of surfers with surfboard design and shaping. There is not the same passion for developing design as there was in my years and the generation that followed. It bothers me a bit how pro surfing’s mainstream push has taken away surfer/ shapers. When you look right back through surfing history, all the major breakthroughs in surfboard design came through high-level surfer/ shapers that were trying to nut out a problem or achieve something else in their surfing. I am not anti pro surfing, I am just merely pointing out there are some dangerous signs the artistic and creative side of surfing is being lost.” Back when Wayne was competing there were different motivations for surf contests. “It was more a gathering of all the people who surfed along the coast. It was not that serious. Sure, people tried to surf well and win but it was all very relaxed. It was a friendly competitive atmosphere. Right through from when we were juniors, we never had one unpleasant moment. There was never any real desperation to win. “It was just a chance to catch up with each other and have a look at different board designs, particularly surfers from different areas. There was a diverse group of people, surfing styles and board designs. When we got together we would all just have a good look. There was a much bigger picture than just the contest. Other than that my main motivation for contests was simply to earn a little bit of money to have some independence and travel.

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“As surfing became more organised and professional, things became a little more homogenised. The boards tended to become similar and so too the surfing in the contests. I don’t mean that in a negative sense. It was just a natural progression I guess.”

Wayne Lynch at Bells Beach - a backhand rip off the top at the 1969 Easter Contest. Photo by Barrie Sutherland - www.watermarksphotogallery.com.au see the full interview with Barrie on Page 66.

SURFING AND SURFBOARD SHAPING The key to Wayne’s surfing and shaping has always been a matter of finding a rhythm and becoming completely immersed in what he is doing. “The best I can surf is when I have completely lost that sense of myself. My concentration level is such that I am completely absorbed in the act. I am not thinking about anything else, not manoeuvres or who’s looking at me, nothing but the actual act itself. That’s a really easy thing to say but a really hard thing to do. Whenever I get that, that’s when my surfing is the best and most creative. “That’s something I have tried to bring into my shaping - just to focus in on the board. Once you have a rough idea of the shape and design parameters, it’s then a matter of getting involved in the board and blending all the design elements. For me, that takes ages and is the reason why I am a very slow shaper. I want to become totally absorbed in shaping the board. When I am finished I feel like I am really part of it. Now that may sound a bit airy-fairy, but it is actually true. When I finish a board I want to feel good about it and unless I have given it my all, I don’t feel right.” Wayne further explains this process and how it is not something he can force. “You just have to get in touch with what you are doing and let it flow. It’s not just surfing or shaping, it applies to everything. It is something surfing has taught me in life that has proven invaluable. When things have fallen apart in the past, it was because I was trying too hard or was self-conscious. You start to learn from experience and it is something I have tried to pass on to my kids. Everything becomes so much easier when you find that rhythm.”

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LATEST: LEGEND sep/oct 2012

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LATEST: LEGEND

Wayne Lynch at Bells Beach - lining up the bowl, June 1969. Photo by Barrie Sutherland www.watermarksphotogallery.com.au - see the full interview with Barrie on Page 66.

SURFBOARD DESIGN “The one thing that became apparent to me as I have grown older and shaped quite a fair few boards, is that I can pick up a blank and see so many possibilities. It is like this infinite amount of directions. So instead of thinking, “Oh, I’ve got this figured out”, I use, as a basis, a certain direction that suits my surfing. I work with that and try and adapt it to other people who I believe will also like that. Otherwise you have an endless amount of design ideas that you understand, but are not as intimately involved with. “I have deliberately chosen some basic design principles that I like in my own boards. I don’t like overly complex boards. I want the boards to perform when I am in critical moments, such as deep in the tube, when you have all this turbulence going on beneath the board and are a little off balance, or the wave is that intense the board is beginning 126

“You develop a different surfing technique. I have a lot more front foot pressure than modern surfers. That means my boards have always had a wider nose and more volume forward. Those two things alone change the whole dynamic of the board. With that said, I still make boards for the young guys and adapt my principles.”

“Many shapers feel the same as me. Two or three that spring to mind are Mark Richardson and Jim Banks. Both are prime examples of guys who make specialist boards. Jim only makes Indo Guns. That’s because Jim has spent most of his life up there and his boards are a reflection of what he rides and what he loves. He’s stuck to that because he knows it and understands it. If a surfer is looking for that kind of board, they know they can pick up one of his boards and it is going to work. MR is the same. His boards may not be contemporary shapes in a sense they’re not a 6’2” young guy, pro surfer style board. His is a very different approach, but they work. Michael Mackie is the same with his fishes. They are very specific about what they are making.

Honing in on what works for him has been part of the reason for Wayne’s success in the shaping field. It is something he recognises amidst other shapers he admires.

“Years ago you could walk into a shop and the boards tended to look the same. The boards were all adaptations of the pro surfboard and that was not necessarily a good

to break free and slide. I want the board to be able to correct itself to some degree and all I have to do is relax, apply a little pressure and go with the flow. A lot of my shaping is built around those sorts of principles - basic plan shape, bottom line, rail and bottom shape. The subtleties of all that and how you blend them.” Growing up on single fins has also influenced Wayne’s designs..

thing, because most people aren’t suited to riding that style of board.”

THE FUTURE Straight off the bat, Wayne states for the record that design is subjective and incredibly personal. “I have never viewed shaping in a vertical sense in terms of from worst to better. It is more horizontal where people develop certain ideas around a certain style of surfing that they like. “For example, there are some people riding modern versions of what we used to surf in the late sixties, namely hulls. Personally I never really liked them. I had three back then and rode them for the grand total of two months and they were three of the worst boards I ever had. They didn’t work for me. People say to me often, ‘In Sea of Joy you were riding that little 5’10” hull.’ And I would be saying, ‘No it

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moments when those boards feel really nice. I know Ted Spencer in Hawaii and he is still fooling around with that principle and he loves it. That’s the beauty of surfing, everyone is different.” And it is there that Wayne has a point. If he could surf like me he would understand my love.

THE FUTURE OF SURFING With the increased number of surfers hitting the coast, even in the cooler Victorian waters, and the introduction of online surf forecasting sites, the attitude out in the water is also changing. “One of the differences with surfing today is online surf forecasting sites. Internet access to swell sizes and conditions means people suddenly are no longer developing their knowledge and understanding of weather patterns. They are being told what it’s going to be and where to go. There’s a vast amount of knowledge that is being lost. When you lose that, you lose respect for what it takes to gain that level of understanding, and how surfing was a complete science and art. It’s a fascinating and important

“YOU JUST HAVE TO GET IN TOUCH WITH WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND LET IT FLOW. IT’S NOT JUST SURFING OR SHAPING, IT APPLIES TO EVERYTHING.” wasn’t. I couldn’t ride them. It was actually a single concave. “I have seen certain shapes revisited and it’s become a little bit of a cult. It has left me bewildered because I go, ‘Hey guys, they don’t work that well. Don’t get sucked into a fad where you believe in something so much you want it to work and believe it is working, but its not.’ Be objective. That’s the trap of going off in variety of tangents in surfboard design. “However, I love seeing people riding all these types of boards because it gives them an insight into our surfing history and culture, the roots of surfing. They get to experience the

types of surfing they may have seen in old surf movies and that in itself is an enriching process in regards to your surfing. You see surfing in such a broader context.” At this point in time I breathe a huge sigh of relief as Wayne specifically refers to hulls and not my beloved mini Simmons that I have grown to love and personally shaped. And then it all went pear shaped…

dynamic to surfing and it’s starting to disappear. “As it starts to get crowded in the surf, I think one of the problems we are experiencing is a lack of respect for the people who have developed this knowledge, or who have lived locally and gained an understanding of the local break.” Wayne believes this lack of respect and regard for one another has unfortunately also affected the whole enjoyment of surfing. “Growing up in Lorne and discovering all these different breaks in the region, when it really was a surfing wilderness, was something else. The cold kept the crowds down. Today, the number of surfers has not only changed, but so too the dynamic out in the water. “It has now become quite competitive. People are out there to get as many waves as they can. Many seem to be hassling to get their wave quota before they rush off somewhere else. It has really changed the nature of the place. There’s no longer the really relaxed atmosphere that I have grown up with. It’s quite an intense crowd today. “People used to think I loved surfing by myself and that was my whole approach to surfing. It’s not true. I have always preferred surfing with a few friends or someone who is just good to surf with. That enhances the whole experience of surfing. That’s what makes it so unreal. “One of the reasons I am concerned about the attitude change in the water is because when you surf with people who are happy to relax and share, you actually enjoy your surfing more. I think people miss that a bit nowadays. “This desperation and anxiety I see about more waves and more waves and paddling inside each other…. That is the antithesis of what surfing always was for us. If someone came in the water and hassled everyone back then, we would tell them to pull back or p*ss off.”

“No I actually don’t like them either.” Well who said Wayne knew anything about surfing anyhow? “Seriously Dave. It is a really personal thing. I am sure there are sep/oct 2012

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LATEST & GREATEST SKATEST FANTASTIC PLASTIC Giving you more choice in plastic skateboards, OB Five is alive and kicking with a brand new retro-style release. The latest model the ‘Condor’ is flying and at a great price, you can definitely save a few pennies... www.obfiveskateboards.com.au

BOARDS WITH WHEELS

14 WHEELER That’s right. What the? That’s what most people say when they first see it. And although it may look and initially feel unstable it couldn’t be more the opposite. Get yourself a good downhill run, really rip into your turns and let it flow. You have so much control, like carving a big wave.The Flowboard features a wide skateboard-style deck with two unique trucks that each hold seven wheels fixed in an arch.

THAT’S WARPED Own your own little piece of history with a modern twist. Stacey Peralta’s signature board that started it all - The Warptail 2 complete with deck built from the ground up with the all new retro style and very tight turning trucks made for easier grinds and lip maneuvers. $239.95 www.trinitydistribution.com.au

INDOOR ROLLING Recently opened The Woods indoor skate park at Birtinya on the Sunshine Coast has been a huge hit with locals and on September 20 and 21 will host an InterSchools Skateboarding Competition. Three students from each school will compete in age events. For more information visit www.boardstorepark.com.au

A LUCID DREAM

BIGGER THAN BEN HUR

Lucid Grip is a clear board grip made from crushed recycled glass and applied with a water-based sealant. It was originally designed for skateboards but can even be applied to SUPs, kiteboards and surfboards. You apply it in two parts and it takes about 5 mins. It can even be applied to pre-gripped surfaces. 3 grip options – Standard, Medium and Heavy. $24.99 www.streetsup.com.au

Specifically designed for stand up paddling on the street, the new Kahuna Creations ‘Bombora’ is sturdy, stable and built from Baltic Birch. At an incredible 59” (1.5m) long and 14” (35cms) wide, it’s ideal for SUP cross training. 10” trucks and 72mm wheels. $399 www.streetsup.com.au jul/aug 2012

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SKATE: INTERVIEW

R “WE WOULD BE WATCHING PROGRAMS WITH JACQUES COUSTEAU AND DOCUMENTARIES LIKE THAT SAYING WE HAVE TO PROTECT WHAT WE GOT.” 130

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LEFT: Arbor co-founder/CEO Bob Carlson - working to leave a better world for son Bodhi and daughter Emma.

ROOTS RIGHT: Arbor Blunt Longboard

Chatting with Bob Carlson on Skype in the early hours one Thursday morning around 4am brought home why we started smorgasboarder in the first place. The opportunity to talk with really interesting and genuine people is a privilege we now enjoy. I didn’t care for what hour of the morning it was; it was during the Olympics anyway, so sleep deprivation was par for the course. So what about Bob? I’m an Arbor fan anyway, but after talking with him, I am much more than that. To hear what Arbor is all about and their amazing path to success whilst still remaining true to their environmental goals is inspiring, to say the least. WORDS: DAVE SWAN

The Skype feed came through. What greeted me on the other end of my screen was far from expected. For some reason I had assumed Bob was a much older guy. After all, he is the co-founder and CEO of a worldwide snow, skate, surf and apparel brand - Arbor. But Bob is only forty-three, has kids just like me and carries not a single skerrit of arrogance that at times can come with such heights of success. Easy to talk to would be an understatement. He gave me an hour of his time and apologised we had not caught up sooner. No doubt you get the picture. So how did Arbor begin? “Well Chris (Chris Jensen, the co-founding half of Arbor) and I went to the same school and basically grew up together in Colorado, hanging out, snowboarding, skateboarding and surfing. We were the first generation of kids that were raised on environmental media. We would be watching programs with Jacques Cousteau and documentaries like that saying we have to protect what we got. “Being snowboarders, surfers and skaters, you are out there in the elements so there’s that personal connection with the environment that drives a real awareness of what it is we are protecting, and why we are protecting it. We were the first guys who came into these respective industries with an environmental consciousness. We were raised on it, so it was in our culture from the very beginning.” However, Bob and Chris’s first foray in business was not in either of these industries. When they both moved to California being skilled wood workers they initially established a company selling environmentally friendly, sustainably sourced wood materials. They were way ahead

of FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) certification, which didn’t even exist at that point. What they found out really quickly was that no one was going to buy from them just because their lumber and veneers were sustainably sourced, as it was more expensive than the alternative. So, Bob and Chris decided the best thing they could do was take the materials further down the product life cycle, to a finished product, and in doing so had control of their margins. Now they could be competitive with their pricing and still do something that was sustainable. “The first lesson we learnt was you can’t sell an environmentally friendly product if it’s not priced the same as the less sustainable counterpart. That was a lesson engraved in our company early on. Performance was the other. You can’t sacrifice performance for the sake of the environment and expect to be successful. You have to have a product that performs and is competitive on price. The environmentally friendly factor should be the tiebreaker. You have to offer up alternatives for all the socioeconomic classes. Only then can you sell in a volume that is going to have a positive impact on the environment. “Organic food is a prime example. Only the rich can afford organically produced food. We are only making a miniscule dent on the effect harmful farming practices are having on the planet.” And so it was, the boys started making finished products: a line of furniture, construction mouldings, picture frames, wood veneers and they started a solid trade. “We were beginning to get a bit of traction on a couple of the products and we were snowboarding and surfing for fun. Then Chris came in one day sep/oct 2012

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and said, ‘Look I think we should do snowboards with the same philosophy.’ He was the dreamer and I was the doer. I said, ‘Whoa. We are doing the other thing.’ But he persisted rambling on about how great it would be, of which I agreed, but we were just two guys. I finally said, ‘I tell you what, if you make one board I will take you seriously.’ He went out, took one of our veneers and made one board. It was beautiful. We took it to a tradeshow and showed it around and people were fired up. That was 1994.

skateboard or surfboard. We even looked at wakeboards at one point. It was about the riding experience. After launching their snowboards in 1995, Arbor branched out into skateboards in 2000 and clothing in 2007. More recently they undertook a joint venture with Firewire to produce a couple of surfboards. “We did two very exclusive models, an inlay wood model and a Hawaiian Koa model. We produced about two to three hundred of each model.”

“We were way out ahead of the whole green movement I asked Bob about future plans to venture further into in the snow scene. We understood from an early age that manufacturing surfboards. the environment needed to be protected and we firmly believed snowboarders, skaters and surfers need to be leading the charge, making environmentalism cool for kids. “We’ll see. I would like to. Surfing is at the very heart At the same time we were conscious of not forgoing what of this brand. But we are perfectionists. We drive ourselves crazy. At this point of life I am fully cognisant is critical to these board sports – performance. of what it means to fully start a new category. It’s definitely an option for us, but right now we have a global distribution for skateboards, snowboards and apparel. We also have a few of our own retail stores in Venice Beach and Santa Barbara.”

“BEING SNOWBOARDERS, SURFERS AND SKATERS, YOU ARE OUT THERE IN THE ELEMENTS SO THERE’S THAT PERSONAL CONNECTION WITH THE ENVIRONMENT...”

“We believed there was a better way to build boards using natural technologies. We wanted to improve board durability, performance, and style with environmentally friendly natural materials. We knew that we could develop new construction methods and alternative designs around these materials.” Their next moves were cautious ones. Bob and Chris already had a successful business but the snowboards came from the heart and pretty soon it became all-consuming. “We were so into it and when we got traction, we just put everything we had into the snowboards. We also really believed in our ability to go beyond just snowboards. Arbor wasn’t going to be a brand that was just about snowboarding. It was a brand about people who rode. Whether they rode a snowboard, ski,

BOARD MEMBER: Arbor co-founder Chris Jensen surfing the Gaviota Coast, just north of Santa Barbara, California.

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With this in mind, I asked Bob about how big Arbor had become. He scans the room behind him and counts. “We have about twenty full-time employees and about ten part-time employees - a tight little company. We also have a lot of good partners like the Future Sport guys (distributors of Arbor in Australia). Rodney Ball and his team are part of the family, part of the ‘collective’. Plus we have a great advantage with how visible our brand is. If you were to go snowboarding in Mammoth, you would see a lot of Arbors, because they’re unique and stand out. There could be a hundredfold more Burtons on the hill, but they’re not as different. Our boards get noticed and it tends to leave us looking bigger than we actually are. We’re comfortable with the size we’re at and growing at a pace we can manage.“ And as for those who are curious about logo and name: “The logo is the Monterey Cyprus in northern California. If you have surfed these parts you would have seen them lining the coast. It is a kind of a cool thing for us as it is where the evergreen tree reaches the ocean. The word Arbor is Latin for tree.” As for what the future holds, you can expect Arbor to continue to be at the forefront of high performance, environmentally friendly innovative products for smorgasboarders. arborcollective.com

BAMBOO BOARDIES First there were super-flexi bamboo snowboard and skate decks with a tensile strength-to-weight ratio stronger then steel. Now Arbor’s using this dynamic natural material in clothing. “If you ever go on a boat trip and you’re in your board shorts 24-7, five days a week, you will be aware of how they start to stink. We have started to embed bamboo charcoal into a variety of different fabrics in our clothing range including board shorts. “Bamboo charcoal has been used for thousands of years by the Chinese to not only filter water but kill the bacteria in it. Bamboo charcoal has antibacterial and anti fungal properties. “We haven’t used hemp in apparel for some years now because when you asked people to wear it you were actually asking them to sacrifice performance. It was itchy, heavy and not nearly as soft as cotton, although the new cottonised hemp is pretty cool. Bamboo on the other hand is an improvement on traditional cotton, it’s even softer, plus it is more breathable. As a material it is also a far superior end product with all the features of sustainability and renewability. “Bamboo is the fastest growing plant known to man. It can self propagate and grows faster than anything else in the most sustainable way possible, because it doesn’t need any chemicals, herbicides or pesticides, nor does it require much irrigation. So it’s both sustainable and renewable. We freaking love it. It looks cool and it’s got this history and mystique to it.”

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SKATE: COLLECTOR

SuRf, SKATE &

Darren – also known as Big Dazza by his mates - really can’t remember exactly where he was surfing, ‘somewhere between Torquay and Lorne. I’d just get driven there’. One unknown spot he remembers with particular fondness is where ‘we‘d have to jump about twenty foot off a cliff top to surf, board first of course. After we’d surfed, we’d wait for low tide so we could paddle through a cave and climb up a hole to the cliff top. There was no other way out!’ When the surf was flat it was never a drama as Darren has always been a keen skateboarder - so good in fact, he used to ride for Piping Hot team back in the ‘70s. He still rides regularly with mates who meet once a week to slip and slide on a menagerie of concrete craft from the past through to the present. The group call themselves MOSS - Melbourne Old School Skaters and they skate all around Melbourne at different park locations late into the night. MOSS regularly have pro skaters attend their skate nights, with visitors even including the great Tony Hawk. Darren collects anything and everything to do with surfboards and skateboards. He has long and short boards from all eras such as his prized Hobie, Pyke and a Gordon Woods. Then there’s his framed posters and photos, a huge surf toy car collection, books, records, magazines and ‘Mandy’ a cool Hawaiian mannequin. Many of these items are signed by the surf and skate stars, such as Mark Richards, Tony Hawk and George Rice, that have ridden them or made these amazing historical pieces. Getting the chance to meet these legends of the surf and skate world was the real thrill for Darren and having the memorabilia is a way for him to remember each occasion. 134

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MR BOARDS

Darren Lacey grew up in Diamond Creek, Victoria during the 70’s and used to hitch rides down the Surfcoast to surf the Torquay area with his ‘older’ mates. With surfboards hanging out the windows and everyone jammed in the car, an adventure was always on the cards. One of our favourite contributors, WORDS & PHOTOS: SIMON KETTLE Simon Kettle, has a chat to Darren about his board collection.

ACROSS: Darren with his many wheeled boards and ABOVE: with ‘Mandy’ and some great surfboards

NOT JUST FOR DISPLAY: There’s still plenty of life left in those bearings. sep/oct 2012

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BEGINNING THE COLLECTION “I’ve been collecting for over thirty years, it began back in the late 1980’s but I’ve had my Mark Richards twin fin since my father gave it to me in the 70’s’. My collection started one day when my mates and I had a couple of boards stolen coming back from a surf on the train from Geelong. We’d just gotten on and we were late and it was busy. The guard told us to put the boards in the guards’ van and buy a ticket at the other end. When we got to Melbourne the boards were gone! So, my birthday was coming up and my dad said I could choose whatever board I wanted. I chose the Mark Richards Twin Fin. He was my idol back then and he was the best, so I wanted one of them. It’s a board I’ll never let go. I just loved the twin fin. I never really liked the single fins. The twin fin just seemed to hang onto the wave better, you’d drop to the bottom and it would just hang on. I just felt I had full control over the twin fin. But everyone’s opinion is different. “Skateboarding started for me when I was 11 years old and the boards have been around me since then. You couldn’t afford much in those days, so you did a lot of swapping of boards and wheels. I didn’t so much consciously collect skateboards because we didn’t know what it was back then but collecting them now is of course.” ADDICTION UNDER CONTROL? “I think so? It can get out of control because you get on the internet and you see a board and you say ‘I wouldn’t mind that’ and you put a few bids on it and you get a bit carried away and you end up paying more than what the board is really worth. With the skateboards I don’t really use the internet… Maybe I’ve bought a few from Ebay, but it was mostly through other guys I know and we’ll buy or swap boards, trucks or wheels. Yeah, I still find them mostly through mates.” FULL HOUSE “Last year I probably sold two or three surfboards just to clear the clutter because you just get too many. It’s nice and neat now. The boards I surf now are pretty much all in covers in the shed ready to go and surf. I have some boards, like my timber hollow board, I keep for special occasions. A couple of mates have passed away and we’ve had paddle-outs for them. That’s when I’d use a board like that one. But I do collect boards to surf on, and some of those old ones... Well, I wonder how in the hell some old guys stayed on those big waves with the equipment they were riding. Those boards just wanted to go straight ahead. Some of them were just rubbish.” COLLECTING NOW “The Internet is probably the big killer for finding old boards. It’s killed the price on boards and it’s made it harder to get stuff. Years ago you could just go to a garage sale and pick something up for twenty bucks or something and people didn’t want them, but now, with the internet there, it’s just spoiled the fun of it, you could say. For me it’s always been word of mouth through mates who’d give you a phone number and you’d hunt them down that way. It was a big treasure hunt, it was awesome!!’

0407 218 591

WWW.SURFNRAK.C0M.AU

THE WHITE WHALE “I’d still like to get the full set up of a Dogtown skateboard. I’ve got a few bits and pieces like decks and wheels but I’d like the whole thing... That’d be the best!”

Sutherland Shire, NSW, 2230, Australia

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BRICKS & MORTALS

THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL

The good old local surf shop is an institution. Worldwide, it’s more than a place to merely buy your surfboard and surfing equipment. It’s a place where surfers get to meet and greet, where they get to shoot the breeze with other locals, compare notes after the last big swell and out-predict each other about when the next one’s about to hit.

SURF SHOPS DIRECTORY P140 P147 P157 P160 P162

Queensland New South Wales Victoria SA/Tasmania New Zealand

Yes, there’s wax and surfboards and t-shirts... but that’s only half the story. There’s a community there - the underlying fabric that underpins every embellished tale of a death-defying drop down a steep face, or an excited conversation about a new brand new board design. It’s part of surfing and being a surfer. So with that in mind, we’re celebrating the surf shop and the real in-the-flesh people that work there.

the stores These are us. p that sup ort get our u yo re e h This is w love! so them me mag, so show sep/oct 2012

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BRICKS & MORTALS

A SURF RE TALE

PART ONE: THINKING BACK

Craig Baird of SurfWorld Museum Torquay reminisces on the humble surf shop. Surf shops have only been around for about half of the surfing story in Australia. During that fifty year span a lot of water has passed under the bridge and the surf shop experience has changed dramatically. Early incarnations were simply the shop front for surfboard manufacturers or boardmakers’ agents looking to highlight their wares in showrooms which were far removed from today’s retail emporiums. The bloke behind the counter was a surfer and so it was pretty much just surfers selling stuff to surfers. Most of these shops would have been perfectly at home in any movie of the wild, wild west. They could be pretty raucous places where anarchy ruled and wild ideas bounced around the walls. Rule number one was, there were no rules! A bloke told me once about a time in the 60s at a bayside surf shop in Melbourne. The shop was just down the road from the local train station. One afternoon the mannequin in the shop window was replaced with a more animated and anatomically correct model, attired with only a towel over his shoulder and smoking a pipe he had managed to stand convincingly still. This caused some uproar with the peak hour commuters as they filed past the shop. Classic! I remember the first surf shop I ever went into and it was an experience that definitely made an impression. It was Pat Morgan’s shop in Anderson Street Torquay. The shop was tiny and was full of a diverse range of surf craft that seemed as different as they were colourful. Flyers, step bottoms, keels, tints, pigments, hand foiled plywood fins and resin pinlines, there was a lot to take in particularly in a space where you would struggle to swing a cat without hitting all four walls. Adding to the sensory overload was the sickly sweet smell of resin and board wax, unforgettable! 138

In a lot of coastal towns around Australia surfers would find a little spot, lay out sea grass matting, throw some posters on the wall and line the racks with surfboards to sell to frothing locals. The Lorne Surf Shop was a West Coast fixture and in Barwon Heads Leigh Middleton set up the Sunshine Surf Shop, a little hole in the wall to cater to the area’s core group of surfers. After literally bumping into Nat Young in the street and a short conversation, Leigh stitched up a deal to sell Nat Young boards locally and was also the West Coast agent for the surfable sculptures that came from Kiama’s inventive Mike Davis. Speakys in Geelong managed to defy the laws of physics somehow and a bit like Dr Who’s Tardis the shop seemed to be way bigger on the inside than it looked from the outside. Behind the counter you would most likely be greeted by the beautiful Sherylyn and Veronika. These two gorgeous girls knew their stuff and made Speaky’s a cool place to hang and buy surf gear. The shop was cramped and lush, full of amazing stuff like the “is it art or is it a surfboard” work of the Hot Buttered crew. Fitz’s speed inspired space machines decorated the walls featuring stunning airbrushed artwork by Martin Worthington. Hanging off the change room curtains were all sorts of brass bells, to let the staff know people were trying on clothes. In 1977 I, um, liberated one of those bells and every day of my life since then it has lived in my pocket attached to my keys... CONTINUED ON PAGE 146

LEFT: The original Mt Woodgee farmhouse. It’s not there anymore, but Mt Woodgee lives on through the surfboards and stores!

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL

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BRICKS & MORTALS

Nothing beats a long, lazy chat with the local guru at your corner surf shop. Rather than just purchasing with a pointer, go out, hang out with real people in the real world. Get the exact gear you need and support these great surf stores.

REEF2BEACH

CLASSIC MALIBU

Reef2Beach surf shop is the only real surf shop north of Noosa.

Classic Malibu is a family run surf store and factory. Peter White, with sons Brett and Bryce and wife Janet, together with their knowledgeable staff, all help out with board production and sales. Peter has been making boards since 1967. He and his sons have made and used the long and short of every craze along the way. Talk to the shaper when ordering a custom board - they know their stuff. With over 200 boards in store, including all your surf accessories, Classic Malibu is definitely the real deal surf shop.

We have all the major surf lables such as Quiksilver, Billabong, Ripcurl and Hurley, plus we have over 200 surf boards in stock & all surfing accessories including FCS , Creatures of Leisure and Ocean & Earth. We also have a factory outlet for surfing bargains.

REEF2BEACH Shop 1 Agnes Water Shopping Centre Agnes Water QLD

Join our world famous surf school every morning and tune to reef2beachsurf.com every morning for our on the spot surf and weather report.

P: 07 4974 9072 M: 0402 32 85 15 W: www.reef2beachsurf.com

SURF SHOP PEREGIAN

UNDERGROUND SURF

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re all about seeing people stoked. We stock core hardware/fashion in a friendly village atmosphere.

Underground Surf in Noosa Heads brings together the surfing styles and influence of the 60s, 70s and 80s with a modern day edge.

We carry many of the leading brands in surf hardware, splashed with a solid range of fashion. We also carry malices through to shortboards from some of the hottest shapers on offer.

Check out the range of retro to pro boards and accessories, and the unique clothing brands including Hinano Tahiti.

Come and check out our range. We offer competitive prices and great package deals at affordable costs. Surf Shop rules! 140

SURF SHOP PEREGIAN 224 David Low Way Peregian Beach Sunshine Coast, QLD P: 07 5471 3489 W: www.surf-shop.org

The Underground experience is warm and downto-earth and the crew treat everyone who comes in as individuals, with different needs, who all happen to have a passion for surfing, skating, vintage or simply arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t into the mainstream gear.

CLASSIC MALIBU Cnr Eumundi & Gibson Rd Noosaville QLD P: (07) 5474 3122

E: info@classicmalibu.com

W: www.classicmalibu.com

UNDERGROUND SURF 3/77 Noosa Drive Noosa Heads, QLD P: 07 5455 4444

kirra@undergroundsurf.com.au www.undergroundsurf.com.au

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: QUEENSLAND

WALLY’S WATER GALLERY “It’s a shop full of different things, but it’s all about the beach.” WALLY JOHNSON, OWNER

Off the beaten track, in the beachside suburb of Marcoola on the Sunshine Coast, Wally’s Water Gallery is most certainly not your average surf shop. While Wally’s stocks an amazing range of high-end surfboards from top shapers Tom Wegener, Jed Done of Bushrat Surfboards, Jesse Watson of Black Apache, Jordie Brown of High Tide Surfboards and more, the boards are only one of the reasons to drop in. It’s a shop full of different things, but it’s all about the beach, as you can see from the collections of shells, recycled timber frames and furniture.

WALLY’S WATER GALLERY 6 Lorraine Ave, Marcoola Beach, QLD P: (07) 5448 8560 E: info@wallyswatergallery.com.au

Wally’s is a family affair, with the beautiful recycled furniture and picture frames displaying Wally’s own surf photography built by his dad, Phil Johnson. Phil’s creations made from assorted bits of recycled timber is worth the visit alone. Wally’s sister Emma also contributes with her handmade coasters and jewellery, and mum Debbie’s years of collecting shells on Marcoola beach fills bowl upon bowl in store.

You could pretty much completely kit yourself out for the beach, to go surfing on a top board and redecorate and refurnish your home in just one visit. What’s more, there are even demo surfboards to experience some different designs, such as a Bushrat flextail. Wally’s also stocks GoPro cameras, wax, legropes and other surf essentials. If you’re in the mood for a surf movie, you can choose from the hire section to take one home overnight - a great little service to get your fix. To experience a very different atmosphere and a totally unique store, drop in. sep/oct 2012

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BRICKS & MORTALS

Alternative Surf are stockists of

ALTERNATIVE SURF

OCEAN ADDICTS

Alternative Surf in Maroochydore is not the run-of-the-mill surf store. Part surf-scene, part street culture, we offer the best of both worlds - great boards and unbelievable gear.

Ocean Addicts is an exciting extreme boardsports store on the Sunshine Coast. We offer you a massive 95m2 shop packed to the roof with top quality state of the art products and equipment for you to choose from.

Stocking exciting apparel from brands like Sacrifice Industries and Analog, supporting new and emerging brands like Loud Life, Dark Hero and Saligia 7, you’re sure to find something a little different in store.

Alternative Surf stocks a wide range of new and secondhand surfboards, including our own in-house branded boards. Understanding the importance of supporting local shapers, these boards are all manufactured locally. There’s also a great range of West wetties and boardshorts, legropes, wax and all the surfing accessories you need, and not necessarily just the usual old brands you expect. Think alternative. Shop alternative. 142

Alternative Surf surfboards are handshaped, not machined.

Our aim is to provide all ‘Ocean Addicts’ with more than just a store - a place where you can get support, knowledge and the professional service that you deserve. A quick repair? A new board? Just want to hang out and talk kites, wake or surf? We are here doing just that!

OCEAN ADDICTS: Luke King (left) and Hayden Fleming (right)

LEARN TO KITE: Our Jeep Kitesurfing School will have you flying in no time, operating from our mobile demo centre truck (left).

We offer you competitively priced gear from the leading brands in the industry in a well laid out and well stocked store. ALTERNATIVE SURF 5/6 Aerodrome Road Maroochydore QLD P: 07 5475 4811 W: sacrificeind.com Like AS on Facebook

Our mobile demo centre in also on the road! The kitted-out truck offers kiteboarders and SUPers the chance to try out the latest gear. The “Big Rig” is also the mobile headquarters for our new Jeep Kitesurfing School.

OCEAN ADDICTS 103-105 Aerodrome Rd Maroochydore QLD

See you in the store or on the water!

P: 07 5309 6624

info@oceanaddicts.com.au

www.oceanaddicts.com.au

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: QUEENSLAND

SURFWARE AUSTRALIA At Surfware Australia we sell the best range of quality surfboards, bodyboards, wetsuits, surf and street wear at reasonable prices. We’re not just retailers – we surf and we love the Sunshine Coast. In store, you’ll find major brands such as West, O’Neill, FCS, Ocean & Earth, and Aleeda. At Surfware Australia, we’ve always got quality surf and street wear on sale. We don’t have fancy shop fronts in a shopping mall – just a great range of quality gear at a reasonable price from our Caloundra retail superstore.

SURFWARE

AUSTRALIAUSTRALI

SURFWARE AUSTRALIA 2 Bulcock Street, Caloundra QLD P: (07) 5491 3620 W: surfwareaustralia.com

PRIMITIVE SURF Primitive Surf was started in 95’ with one thing in mind - offering the best service for surfers. 17 years on, the motto is still the same.

BOARD CULTURE Board Culture was founded in 1995 at Mermaid Beach, taking over from the Town & Country (T&C) shop to grow into the coolest, independently-owned surf shop on the Goldie, with great new and used surfboards, bodyboards skateboards and unique clothing. Our collaboration with Addict Espresso means that you can score awesome coffee and snacks instore too. In a landscape littered with soulless corporate-owned stores and factory outlets, Board Culture is unique in that the owners and all staff are surfers. We’re passionate about the high quality boards we stock and ride, and the great service we provide. We are open 6am til 5pm Monday to Saturday and from 9am ‘til 3pm Sundays.

BOARD CULTURE 2442 Gold Coast Hwy, Mermaid Beach Gold Coast, QLD P: 07 5572 9866 boardculture1@optusnet.com.au

We carry a large quantity of all the best brands in categories such as surfboards, customs surfboards, SUP’s, bodyboards, wetsuits, surf hardware and accessories, the latest clothing and discount apparel, hire boards and specialty repairs done in store. It’s our aim to make you have the best experience each time you enter our store... And the water!

W: www.boardculture.com.au sep/oct 2012

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PRIMITIVE SURF 601 Nudgee Rd Nundah, Qld P: 07 3266 1001 F: 07 3266 2002 E: craig@primitivesurf.com W: www.primitivesurf.com 143

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BRICKS & MORTALS

MT WOODGEE Three great locations, unbelievable surfboards and a whole lot of surfing history.

Mt Woodgee is not a marketing invention. It is a place. It represents a way of life. Mt Woodgee customers are fellow surfers or at least share in our love for the ocean and surfing. It’s very well put by the man who started it all, Nick Anagnostou: “I would love everyone who rides our boards, wears our clothes or comes to our shops to feel - even if it’s just a little bit - the happiness that I’ve felt in my life as a surfer. The farmhouse, the mountain, the camaraderie... Mt Woodgee embodies these feelings.” The fundamental item - the surfboard - will continue to underpin our credibility into the future. We understand that a surfer ‘has a relationship’ with their surfboard rather than ‘owning it like an object’.

MT WOODGEE STORES: 122 Griffith Street Coolangatta QLD P: (07) 5536 5937 2 Stewart Rd Currumbin QLD P: (07) 5598 2188

We’re determined not to participate in the ‘sales-pitch’ being directed at surfers in favour of mass-produced surfboards that are easy and cheap to make. These are counter to individual expression - the very core of surfing culture.

1730 Gold Coast Highway Burleigh Heads QLD P: (07) 5535 0288 W: www.mtwoodgee.com.au 144

We create “Individual Surfboards for Individual Surfers”.

Mt Woodgee will continue to innovate and refine surfboard design. Surfboards, with unique bottom curves, made from the best materials, shaped and finished by the world’s best surfboard craftsmen will always be available to anyone in the world from Mt Woodgee.

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: QUEENSLAND

GOODTIME Why Goodtime? ‘Cause that ‘s what surfing is all about. Having a Goodtime, whether it’s on concrete, grass, dirt or sand... Flying high, sailing with the wind, barrel rolling a boogie or shredding on your weapon of choice... This is what the Goodtime store and it’s team delivers for you. Stroll through our store online, enjoy our Facebook action videos or simply come on in and meet the Goodtime surfing team. We all shred, so we know what we’re talking about. Jacob on camera with Chad in longboarding mode is poetry in motion. These boys show you how we test the gear we sell. Mitch... Well, what hasn’t he tested in SUPs? Jacob B is our Cabrinha kite test pilot and just returned from Europe. Luke is Australia’s Formula One Windsurfing champion; his brother Reese also sets the pace in wave sailing. We’re here to give you the knowledge to make the right choice! Casey... Just check out Jacob’s shot of him in boogie style on Facebook and catch Sam and Stephen in the store for the right boogie choice. Charlie, PJ, Gracey - all surfie chicks - back up Judy and Karen at the front counter. We buy the wetsuits, the gear you wear and make great choices for you that have kept Goodtime in surfing since 1971.‘Nuff said. Service and advice from Brady, Jonte, Harry and yours truly are here for the asking when it comes to paddling, repairs, old-school valuations and anything else you can think of. I guess after 42 years in action on all of the above, you just might get the knowledge you need to make the right choices so that you really do have a Goodtime. Gail Austen OAM Installed in Surfing Hall of Fame

GOODTIME 29 Ipswich Rd, Woolloongabba QLD P: 07 3391 8588 F: 07 3891 1029 E: info@goodtime.com.au W: www.info@goodtime.com.au Like us on Facebook! sep/oct 2012

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The classic image of retailer defiance: Gail Austen of Goodtime in Brisbane, after a shop fire almost destroyed her business in November 1984.

BRICKS & MORTALS

A SURF RE TALE

PART TWO: HONEST LABOUR WORDS: Craig Baird of SurfWorld Museum Torquay

Straight out of school I scored a gig managing the Piping Hot Surf Shop in Geelong, somehow convincing Fred Pyke and Rod Brooks that being an 18 year old bag boy and trainee manager for Safeway had set me up as the man for the job. First day in the shop I had tidied the racks, vacuumed the floor and cleaned the front windows. I looked at my watch, it was just after 10am, now what? I developed a really good relationship with the newsagent across the road, I would get all the latest surf mags from them and spent some time trying to chat up the newsagent’s daughter. It could get pretty quiet in the shop. There was one day where all I sold was a block of Zog’s. Fifty cents for eight hours work, hmmmm?

I bought myself an airbrush and set about decorating the changing rooms with murals inspired by Bill Ogden’s Forgotten Island of Santosha poster art. I had seventeen pairs of boardshorts and a new board every few weeks if I could turn them over in the racks or sell them off to my mates. Piping Hot at that stage didn’t exist as a brand and so we had Dive N Surf wetsuits and boardshorts and an amazing array of other labels scattered throughout the shop. Morning Star, McCoy, Byrne, Crozier, Mark Richards, Reno Hawaii and Rod Brooks boards filled the windows and clothing brands Golden Breed, Crystal Cylinders, Lightning Bolt, Double Dragon and Kream filled the racks. Mexican jackets were big, as were ugg boots, but generally surfers wore Beachcomber Bills not shoes! The shop was just full of stuff for surfers. Boards, mats, flippers, boardbags, occy straps the exotic Aloha roof racks. We also stocked Frank’s Racks - custom roof racks handmade by local surfer Frank Hollenkamp. The shop was pretty uncomplicated just hardware to get people out there and into the water or clothes to keep them warm on land, that was pretty much it. Incense oils and sticks helped provide the shop with a particular ambience as did wax brands with distinctive smells that matched their labels like Honey, Strawberry and Coconut, and then there was the funky Sex Wax which came in a range of colours and flavours. 146

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: NEW SOUTH WALES

ABOVE: Scott Dillon’s early business frontage. LEFT: Craig’s place of gainful employment - Piping Hot, Geelong. Courtesy of SurfWorld Torquay

“I WOULD GET ALL THE LATEST SURF MAGS ...AND SPENT SOME TIME TRYING TO CHAT UP THE NEWSAGENT’S DAUGHTER.” Legropes were rubber tubing with a nylon cord running through it, held shut with that new fangled stuff called Velcro.... So much was changing so quickly, in quick succession I went from riding a Rod Brooks, then a Mark Richards sting, McCoy double flyer round pin, Aipa sting, Morning Star then MR twin fin, Brewer sting wing pin, Bertlemann twinnie, Mike Davis channel bottom and a Wave Crest Hawaii sting twin fin that had concave running from tip to tail! Lots of different design philosophies, lots of fun. I remember a guy trying to sell me the first generation of urethane legropes, thick red things called Pipeline Legropes. He demonstrated the controlled stretch of the leggy by doing up the Velcro around the bus seat outside the shop and then stretching the legrope as far as it would go, which was pretty impressive until the Velcro let go! I also remember the first time a rep brought in a boogie board, most of us had ridden mats and had written off gutsliding as fun for closeouts only, but you could see these slick little body boards were a game changer... CONTINUED ON PAGE 153

AKWA SURF AKWA Surf is your specialist surf store on the south coast of NSW, boasting one of the largest and most premium range of surfboards on the entire East coast, combined with a huge selection of wetsuits and hardware. AKWA Surf live and breathe surfing. Based in the heart of beautiful Milton, AKWA Surf is the dream of two young surfing families - Kurt and Alicia Nyholm, and Matt and Emma Bryant. Matt and Kurt are mates who ended up brothers-in-law after marrying sisters Emma and Alicia. Kurt is a retired professional surfer and Matt is a chartered accountant who loves surfing so much he packed up his calculator for AKWA... AKWA Surf strives to be a little different from the average surf store, with a sensational mix of surf and fashion forward brands beaming off the racks for mens, ladies and kids. We carry a colossal range of surfboards and hardware… this is where the crew specialises and is the heart of the store. With unsurpassed surfboard knowledge, the crew freely offers accurate advice, without judgment and always with a smile. The team surf every day and they know all the products intimately. AKWA Surf is located in a trendy old doublestory, heritage-listed building in Milton, The store has been fitted out from recycled materials from the area, giving it an awesome atmosphere and look. Come and say hi to all the highly trained staff as they help guide you onto your next surfboard, wetsuit or boardshorts.

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“With unsurpassed surfboard knowledge, the crew freely offers accurate advice, without judgment and always with a smile.”

AKWA SURF Shop 1, Mellick’s Corner, Princes Highway Milton NSW P: 02 4454 5222 W: www.akwasurf.com.au 147

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BRICKS & MORTALS

Johnny Abegg: Photo Alex Frings

Protecsun Surf Hats and Basil custom wetsuits are available

MC SURF DESIGNS FACTORY AND SHOP Michael Cundith has been making surfboards since 1963 and is recognised worldwide as a master shaper. With his surfcrazy wife Toshie and surfer, shaper, glasser and jack of all trades Wayne Davenport, this enterprise caters for every type of surfer on the planet. Friendly expert advice and service provides everything from high performance short and long boards to modern retro boards of varying lengths, widths ,thicknesses, fin setups, colours and shapes. Fast, expert ding repairs are popular also. Toshie Designed and manufacture the best Surfhat ProtecSun. MC Surf stocks almost every surf accessory you can imagine and the prices are competitive.

MC SURF DESIGNS 3 Banksia Drive, Byron Bay 2481 NSW P: 02 6685 8778 F: 02 6680 8932 E: info@mcsurf.com.au W: www.mcsurf.com.au E: info@protecsun.com.au W: www.protecsun.com.au 148

Basil custom wetsuits are available for men and women in any styles

Custom made Basil wetsuits have to be seen to be believed, light ,flexible, durable and excellent quality, hand made in Japan. Check out our comprehensive website at mcsurf.com.au. Phone, internet and mail order is available.

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: NEW SOUTH WALES

SURF CENTRAL BYRON BAY

Wow - a core surf shop right in the middle of beautiful Byron Bay â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the latest modern stock with traditional old fashioned friendly expert service. Stocking shortboards, fishes, modern and classic longboards, Surf Central has a huge range of surf accessories and boards to rent. Unsure about fins or whether they improve your surfing? With our FCS demo centre you can try out a set of the latest fins without the worry.

SURF CENTRAL 1/89 Jonson Street Byron Bay NSW P: 02 6685 5244

info@surfcentralbyronbay.com.au www.surfcentralbyronbay.com.au

TRIPLE-X WETSUITS Our target market has always been the dedicated hardcore surfer, diver and watersports person. These are the people Triple-X knows best, because at Triple-X, we are these people. With this in mind, our goal has always been simple: provide a genuine product with comfort, quality and durability at the best possible price, backed with service.

MAIN: Don Munro, owner of Triple-X Wetsuits. ABOVE: Marcus Aboody wears a Triple-X springsuit

We have been the leaders in protection from the elements for some 40 years providing surfing and dive wetsuits - namely Australiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s number one titanium-lined wetsuits, along with rash vests and UV protective sunwear. We are proudly a 100% Australian, family-owned and operated business who offer a lifetime guarantee on our wetsuits. Apart from the Triple-X brand of products, we also provide a corporate branding service catering for specialised logo requirements of surf and specialty retailers, board riding clubs, advertising and merchandising agencies.

BRUNSWICK SURF Brunswick Surf

is now a Surf Clearance Center With 10-50% of all items, shop for discount surf and skate gear from all the top brands!

We have an extensive range to suit the whole family, so come into the store and meet us in person, or shop online at www.triple-x.com.au TRIPLE X WETSUITS 10 Piper Drive Ballina NSW

BRUNSWICK SURF 1/12 The Terrace Brunswick Heads, NSW

1300 483 634

P: Peter 02 6685 1283

P: 02 66190469 W: www.triple-x.com.au

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REVIVAL YAMBA “Revival brings influences from the past to the Present.”

Revival is a unique lifestyle store. A combination of music,art,surf and fashion.The lastest and coolest items to vintage and retro classics. Thousands of hard to find vinyl and cd’s from different era’s and genres as well as the lastest releases. Surf collectables, movies, books and gifts fit in with the Yamba and Angourie lifestyle from back in the 60s to today. Together with great surf and landscape art and photography from Rowan Keegan, Sean scott, Bob Weeks, Albe Falzon, Dick Hoole and John Witzig adorn the walls. Revival sources quality independent fashion brands such as Art Park, Rake, Deus, Green Ukulele, Critical Slide Society, Mr Simple to name a few. Along with unique belts, hats,wallets and bags. From the resurgence of skateboards like Z-Flex, Penny, G&S and Santa Cruz. We also have old school boards hanging about the shop with the odd surfboard, dragster, cafe racer, record player or guitar. Which will lead you to our vintage and retro corner where you can pick up some quality threads. Items that just can’t be made the way they used to.

REVIVAL 1/25 Coldstream st, Yamba, NSW. P: 02 6646 3454 www.revivalyamba.com.au 150

Shopping online now is easy. So we have our own online store with thousands of rare vinyl and CDs, photos, DVDs, fashion and more. But, if you’re lucky enough to be in Yamba to enjoy our pristine beaches, relaxed lifestyle and great cafes, you can’t beat browsing through the collections of Hendrix, Doors, Beatles, old surf photo’s and the coolest fashion designs available for men and women.

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: NEW SOUTH WALES

BUSINESS FOR SALE If you’re seeking a lifestyle seachange and would rather live your life than work it away, contact the owners.

THE PLANK SHOP

WATER SURF+ART+CAFE

Seagrass matting on the floor collecting sand and saltwater, old surf movies running on the DVD player and a collection of surfboard classics hanging in the ceiling. This is The Plank Shop. Established 1984 in the backyard sheds of Freo and Margaret River, and operating since 2000 in Yamba northern NSW, we’ve specialised in retro and old-style for years. Our shop has everything a surfer needs or desires. New boards, secondhand, classic collectibles, unique clothing, wetties, accessories, artwork and retro. We are more than just a surf shop we are tradition, style and soul.

DIstinctively relaxed atmosphere, exceptional food, coffee and tea. Great service, photographic art, exquisite gifts, elect surfwear and surfboards THE PLANK SHOP Top of the hill Yamba, NSW P: 02 6645 8362

E: theplankshop@hotkey.net.au W: www.theplankshop.com.au

surf: Sel, Stuart, Xanado surf board, locally hand crafted timber board, Famous hardware, sex wax and more. art: Sean Scott, STimages, Sketch Holiday... cafe: Merlo organic coffee, Byron tea company, K’pane bread, heathfire organic bread..

Like us on Facebook!

THE LOG SHACK

SANDY FEET SURF CO.

The Log Shack first opened in 2003 and is regarded as the premier longboard shop on the mid north coast of New South Wales. Operated by Paul and Ken, we’ve got over 200 boards in stock, and all the hardware you need. We have all the best brands and are exclusive stockists of Arrawarra Longboards. Besides boards, we have a great selection of surf memorabilia, Hawaiiana, woody cars, kombis, surfing books, travel guides, and DVDs from the 60s to today. T-shirts to boardies, swimwear and hats, wetsuits to rashies – we’ve got you covered.

Sandy Feet is all about making surfing fun. We don’t care if you rip - our favourite surfers are the ones who smile the most. THE LOG SHACK 392 Harbour Drive, The Jetty Strip, Coffs Harbour NSW P: 02 6658 0223

E: info@thelogshack.com.au W: www.thelogshack.com.au

We love stocking brands that ”get it”, like The Critical Slide Society, Rake, Art Park, Thrills, Raen, Brixton and more. You probably won’t win a world title on the boards we stock - They’re all about more waves and more fun, from shapers like Thomas, Black Apache, Bing, Dick Van Straalen, McTavish and Gato Heroi. sep/oct 2012

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WATER SURF+ART+CAFE 370 Harbour Drive Coffs Harbour Jetty NSW 2450 P: 02 6651 4500

info@watersurfartcafe.com www.watersurfartcafe.com

SANDY FEET Cnr Murray & Clarence St Port Macquarie NSW P: 02 65 84 1995

info@sandyfeetsurf.com.au www.sandyfeetsurf.com.au

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GRAFFITI SURF DESIGNS

PACIFIC DREAMS

Graffiti Surf Designs is located in beautiful Nelson Bay, Port Stephens.

Pacific Dreams is Newcastle’s most iconic surf store and surfboard manufacturer, specialising in custom boards,wetsuits and hardware for over 30 years. Located in the heart of Newcastle’s CBD at 9 Darby Street, we stock everything a surfer needs and also provide a board hire and a repair service. Come check out the new look PD’s store with a huge photo wall dedicated to our rich history and strong stable of team riders past and present.

The first store to open in Nelson Bay some 30 years ago, we stock all major brands including Billabong, Quiksilver, Oakley, Rusty, Volcom, Rip Curl, Dragon… just to name a few. With our friendly and helpful staff, this business offers quality surf gear and accessories to our local and tourist customers.

GRAFFITI SURF DESIGNS 43 Donald Street Nelson Bay NSW P. 02 4981 3409

BOARD CITY

ADRIFT SURF

For the past 19 years owner Ken Derry has owned and run Board City in Toukley on the NSW Central Coast. Toukley is surrounded by water with Tuggerah Lakes at the backdoor and the beautitful Soldiers Beach just at the end of the street. Board City is a unique shop that serves the needs of surfers, skaters, wakeboarders and waterskiiers alike. Ken and his staff pride themselves on good old-fashioned service. Along with this throw in all the latest hardware for any of these extreme sports and you really do have a unique surf and watersports shop.

Adrift Surf was born out of a desire to re-capture the essence of surfing, getting back to where it all began - where life was simple, honest and fun. Since the late 60’s Steve & Lee Bond immersed themselves in the surf scene and have successfully operated Adrift Surf for the past 15 years. Hand shaped surfboards, retro collectables, vintage boards, books, and cool photography blend with clothing and accessories. Adrift Surf is about remembering what it felt like when we rode that first wave and why that feeling has kept us coming back for more all these years.

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Board City 150 Main Rd, Toukley NSW 2263 P. (02) 43 971 092 E. boardcity@westnet.com.au W. www.boardcity.com.au

PACIFIC DREAMS 9 Darby St, Newcastle, NSW P: 02 4926 3355

E: info@pacificdreams.com.au W: www.pacificdreams.com.au

ADRIFT SURF 133 The Entrance Road The Entrance NSW P: 02 4332 8355

E: adrift@adriftsurf.com.au

W: www.adriftsurf.com.au

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A SURF RE TALE

PART THREE: DOWNTIME WORDS: Craig Baird of SurfWorld Museum Torquay

The look of retail has changed a little since the early days... Photos: courtesy of SurfWorld Museum Torquay.

“LEGITIMATE CUSTOMERS WOULD STRUGGLE TO GET THROUGH THE FRONT DOOR, GETTING STINK EYE FROM THE SURFERS INSIDE.”

As quiet as the shop could get Friday nights provided a counterpoint as the place was always packed. Friday night was party night and what should have been our most productive time of the week just became a meeting place for hundreds of Geelong surfers. The place was crammed and bugger all was being sold. Girls would be trying on clothes while the lads jostled for position at the knot holes in the walls of the changing rooms. Legitimate customers would struggle to get through the front door, getting stink eye from the surfers inside. Looking back this is probably the key, surf shops weren’t just retail outlets they were social hubs where surfers would gather, swap stories, check out the latest equipment or see what films were on at the “flicks”. It wasn’t just a shop, it was a place for surfers at a time when surfers were seen as outsiders and didn’t enjoy the best of reputations Sometimes I would set up my projector and screen shaky footage on the shop walls, of my friends and I surfing. There were heaps of times when I would drag the mattress out of the back of my car and sleep on the floor of the shop. The routine was pretty much surf in the morning, work all day in the shop, and try and squeeze in a surf after work. On the weekends it was just surf, surf, surf and more often than not on Sunday nights we’d scoot off to the Pix Theatre to check out a surf movie. Putting up posters in the shop window meant that there were usually a few free passes to the movies, so it was a pretty sweet deal. At the movies you would be mobbed by people wanting to know about their new board or custom wetsuit. It was pretty much non stop! One day it rained inside the shop. The landlord’s wife, who lived upstairs, somehow got her washing machine to overflow and so it looked like rain in the shop as the water came through the ceiling showering the racks of clothing below. I got a phone call one night and arrived at the shop at 1am to find the place crawling with cops! They had responded to the alarm and were sure the place had been broken into. I had a quick look around and told them that nothing was missing, They were buzzing because there was clear evidence that the bolt on the back door had been cut. Truth was I had locked myself out of the shop a few days earlier and along with my girlfriend spent about an hour poking a hacksaw blade through the gap in the door and, er, shortening the bolt a bit. The shortened bolt had simply let go setting off the alarm. CONTINUED ON PAGE 156

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ALPINEBEACH

SOUL SURF

ALPINEBEACH is the freshest surf and snow store on the Central Coast. We opened the doors June 2005 and haven’t looked back.

Vintage surfboards, surfing memorabilia and all things surfing are our passion. With a vision to keep the true soul of surfing alive, we have grown into something truly unique.

The company founders have over 30 years history in the snow, surf and fashion industry including 12 years in the shaping bay, producing over 7000 surfboards Whatever board you ride, drop in when you’re on the Central Coast to browse through our extensive range of gear.

MANLY SURFBOARDS Not all surfers are the same and at Manly Surfboards we cater for individual surfers who want individual shapes. Plus we cater for the beginner right through to advanced. Every board we have instore is handshaped from a selection of some of Australia’s finest shapers. We are the custom surfboard specialists and our staff are friendly, relaxed and knowledgable who are happy to help you with any board request. We also have the best professional ding repair service in town. 154

ALPINEBEACH 46 North Steyne Manly NSW P: (02) 9976 0591

E: info@manlysurfboards.com W: www. manlysurfboards.com

MANLY SURFBOARDS NEW AND USED

SURFBOARDS & MALS

MANLY SURFBOARDS 46 North Steyne Manly NSW P: (02) 9976 0591

E: info@manlysurfboards.com W: www. manlysurfboards.com

We have a huge variety including vintage, retro, new and second hand surfboards, as well as our range of Soul Surf Designs custom made surfboards. Surfing accessories and clothing are also available, as well as some unique surfing memorabilia including vintage surfing magazines and posters.

SOUL SURF Suite 10 90 Mona Vale Rd, Mona Vale NSW 2103 P: 02 9979 2226

E: sebsurf@bigpond.net.au

W: www.soulsurf.com.au

DAMP STORE Damp Store is a Surf, Skate & Streetwear Store in Curl Curl Sydney. We specialise in hand made Single Fin Surfboards Short and Long, Modern and Retro Skateboards, Boutique Surf magazines and Designer Books, Surf accessories, T-Shirts, Jumpers, Boardshorts, Hats and Grooming products. We also host Art Shows each month as well as offer Design & Illustration services eg surfboard/ skateboard art or company branding.

DAMP STORE Shop 4, 31 Brighton Street Curl Curl, NSW 2096 P: 02 8084 4289

E: matt@dampstore.com.au W: www.dampstore.com.au

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: NEW SOUTH WALES

CRONULLA STANDUP

PADDLEBOARD SHOP & SCHOOL The only dedicated SUP Shop in the Sutherland Shire, Cronulla, we stock the best quality boards and paddles, Try before you buy on the last Sunday of the months Sept – April at 11am - 2pm. For more info and demo day details visit our website or call. We’re also the first fully qualified SUP coaches in Australia accredited by Surfing Australia - recognised by the Australian Government. Classes and paddles to suit your fitness, age or skill level - a fun, safe and professional experience for you try Standup Paddleboarding today!

CRONULLA STANDUP Shop 3/13-15 Kingsway Cronulla NSW P: 02 95442293. enquiries@cronullasup.com.au

www.cronullasup.com.au

SOUTHERN MAN SURF Southern Man - Ulladulla’s original and best surf shop - is now in the new Woolworth’s Centre. The store has unique zones that individually cater for men, women and children, showcasing the latest gear from the likes of Billabong, Quiksilver, Roxy, Rip Curl and Rusty. “After 28 years in our old location we found that we had outgrown the building,” said owner Kent Saunders. Bells and whistles aside, the store stays true to its roots, stocking superb surfboards by Channel Islands, local shaper Vern Jackson and more. “Our strong sense of family also still remains with my wife Juanita, sons Tim and Martyn, along with Perry, Sam, Dani, Sterling, Bryce, Elyse, Jamie-Lee and Tash making up our team.

So, if we can help to get that ocean-generated smile happening, then our job is done - we sleep well and surf long. Clean lines to u all.

SOUTHERN MAN Woolworth’s Centre at 119-122 Princes Hwy, Ulladulla, NSW

SHELLHARBOUR SURF & SKATE Cnr Addison & Mary St Shellharbour Village, NSW

P: 02 4454 0343 E: info@website.com.au W: www.southernman.com.au

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KENT SAUNDERS, OWNER

Another thing that remains unchanged is the opening hours -seven days a week - rain, hail or shine - aside from Christmas day.

SHELLHARBOUR SURF & SKATE Shellharbour Surf & Skate is a small community surf shop. The concept is simple. Bring it back to the people that live by and for the ocean - the surfers and their families.

“We’re still the same privately-owned coastal country town surf shop we’ve been since 1974. Our greatest strength continues to be our personal, informed and down-to-earth customer service.”

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A SURF RE TALE PART FOUR: MOVING ON WORDS: Craig Baird of SurfWorld Museum Torquay

My time in the shop came to an end after a couple of years when the lease ran out. After exploring the possibility of taking over the shop with some friends, I bailed and got work in restaurants and also worked as a labourer on a farm, digging ditches for five bucks an hour! Work was hard and the beach seemed a long way away. A few years later I started doing some hand painted t-shirts using the airbrush I had bought while in the Piping Hot shop. I wandered into the Rip Curl store in Torquay where they were happy to put em in the racks (can you imagine trying that on now!?).

people to “f*#@ off” if he thought they were kooks. Rip Curl did surfboards and wetsuits, Quiksilver made shorts, and the distinction between the surf companies was quite clear.

ABOVE: Early days at Island Surfboards - an icon of the Philip Island surfing community BELOW: Bean (of Balin Surfboards in Gunnamatta) with John Devereux in 1972 at Hastings Street, Noosa’s only surfboard factory - Wave Flow Surfboards. Bean says behind the factory were mangroves all the way to Tewantin - now Noosa Sound - with the biggest mud crabs you could imagine that used to walk around the factory!

The characters and shenanigans were epic, but even in 1984 you could see that things were going to change. Surf retail was growing, product lines were expanding, people had big plans. CONTINUED ON PAGE 160

Over summer I struggled to keep up with demand for the weird one off designs. Steve Perry who managed Rippy’s store at the time, got me to skate around the car park dressed up as Santa and I was part of the retail team there for a while, it was mental! There was one bloke that worked in the surfboard department that was famous for simply telling 156

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5/09/12 5:25 PM

THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: VICTORIA

OUTEREEF SURFBOARDS

ISLAND SURF SHACK

At Outereef we specialise in custom-made surfboards, for all levels of surfers. Drop in and speak to our shaper Scott Peberdy - he has 18 years of experience and can shape the perfect board for you. The entire process is done right here in our shop, not China!

A good old fun surf shop carrying old labels Golden breed, Morning of the Earth, Gordon & Smith, Morning Star, Bear, Old Guys Rule and Penny Skates.

Not only do we have a huge range of surfboards and hardware for all your surfing needs, but we also stock a massive range of the world’s leading brands in wetsuits, clothing and accessories. See you soon at Outereef!

OUTEREEF SURFBOARDS 73 Phillip Island Road, San Remo, Victoria, 3925 P: (03) 5678 5677 E: info@outereef.com.au W: www.outereef.com.au

Yep, you got it - a surf shop that carries retro and fun labels, dashboard Hula dolls, heaps of kombi stuff, posters, Maddog boards, Skims... Plenty of presents for the surfer who thinks he has everything. Come in, grab something unique or just have chat.

Sadly, for health reasons, we must sell our baby... So WE ARE FOR SALE. Great shop, great price. ISLAND SURF SHACK 150A Thompson Avenue Cowes, Phillip Island P: 03 5952 1659 E: pip@waterfront.net.au

WE BUY SELL & TRADE SECONDHAND SURFBOARDS!

PENINSULA SURF

ANGLESEA SURF CENTRE

Peninsula Surf has been providing locals and visitors with great products, service and advice since 1974. We are family owned, employ locals, and support a range of local community clubs. We were instrumental in establishing the Peninsula Surfriders Club.

Anglesea Surf Centre is in the heart of the Surfcoast, between Torquay and Lorne. Right on the Great Ocean Road, we’re famous for friendly service and a huge range of secondhand surfboards, wetsuits and accessories. Our core business is getting you in the water. We’re a traditional surf shop, not a ‘boutique’ style surf fashion store and our roof is lined with a collection of rare boards from every era. We have over 200 boards in stock and have the expertise to hunt down your perfect board. Classic surfboards can be sourced on request.

In store you’ll find everything you’ll need, including an extensive range of wetsuits, hardware and clothing. Our Peninsula boards are made by local shaper Clyde Laird with over 40 years experience. Call in next time you are on the Peninsula.

PENINSULA SURF Stores at: Rye (03) 5985 4637 Rosebud (03) 5982 2433 Mornington (03) 5975 1800 Mornington MS (03) 5975 9608

Frankston (03) 9783 3811 Cranbourne (03) 5995 0222 www.peninsulasurf.com.au

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ANGLESEA SURF CENTRE 111 Great Ocean Rd Anglesea Vic P: 03 5263 1530

secondhandsurfboards.com.au www.facebook.com/ angleseasurfcentre

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BRICKS & MORTALS

ZAK SURFBOARDS Zak Surfboards was established in 1993 when Zak Koniaris shaped his first surfboard at 13 in a lean-to down the side of his parents’ house in Viewbank and offered surfboard repairs to mates and local surf shops during his teenage years. He opened his first store in Thornbury in 1999 and packed 86 surfboards, a wall of accessories, a bunch of skateboards and wetsuits into a 6 × 3m shop in which customers had to walk around single-file to view his range.

ZAK KONIARIS, OWNER

ZAK SURFBOARDS 307 Victoria Rd Thornbury, Melbourne, VIC P: 03 9416 7384 F: 03 9416 7384 E: zak@zaksurfboards.com W: www.zaksurfboards.com 158

Zak moved away from shaping to run the shop and sought out local shapers to produce the Zak range. Today the surfboards are manufactured on the west surf coast of Victoria, Australia.

We’re always looking for more stock, so we will trade, consign any surfboards, anytime, from old stock, damaged stock, ex-team boards for cash, no fuss. The extensive range now caters for every type of surfer on any budget.

Today Zak Surfboards has over 400 surfboards on display, ranging from malibu’s, mini-mals, hybrids, eggs, fishes, performance shortboards and retro single-fins. We passionately support local shapers and are proud to provide a hub for quality Victorian-produced surfboards, shaped for Victorian surf conditions.

We are one of the biggest and cheapest in the second hand board market, with stock arriving weekly, so check out our secondhand board and clearance board pages to find your next stick.

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5/09/12 5:25 PM

THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: VICTORIA

ISLAND SURFBOARDS

ISLANTIS

First established in 1969, Island Surfboards has been a huge part of the Victorian surfing industry for over 40 years. Still family owned and run, Island continues to offer essential services for the core surfer.

The team at Islantis are surrounded by everything that you could possibly need to feed a surfing addiction – surfboards, wetsuits, bodyboards, surf accessories, bikinis, boardies, rashies, beachwear, after surf clothing, street gear, shoes, skateboards, sunnies, watches, giftware ...and heaps more.

With a dedicated team of workers, Island has become renowned for their high quality handmade, custom surfboards. The stores also stock all the clothing and accessories a surfer could possibly require, and boast a huge range from all the popular brands.

The Vintage Surf Expo has over 50 classic surfboards on display

LEFT: The Big Wave... Come get a photo.

The stores offer a vibrant place to browse for clothing and accessories, with expert staff and board shapers always on hand to offer assistance if required, or just to have a yarn about the days surf on offer. Island operates one of Australia’s highest rated, award-winning Surf Schools, which provides coaching for surfers ranging from entry level to high performance. Coupled with a full equipment hire service, Island caters for any level of surfer.

COWES 147 Thompson Avenue, Cowes, VIC P: 03 5952 2578 F: 03 5952 3304

cowes@islandsurfboards.com.au

SMITHS BEACH 225 Smiths Beach Road, Smiths Beach, VIC P: 03 5952 3443 F: 03 5952 3449 smithsbeach@islandsurfboards.com.au

www.islandsurfboards.com.au

Our team know surf culture. We only source the best gear, the latest fashions and the trendiest styles from the biggest brands. We also have an in-store Vintage Surf Expo containing over 50 classic surfboards, signed memorabilia, wetsuits, photos and more. It covers surfing from its origins in Polynesia through to the dramatic design advances of the ‘70s and ‘80s and on to the styles of today. Entry is free and guided tours can be arranged for groups. And don’t forget, we’re part of the Big Wave Complex. You can not only shop here and view vintage surf memorabilia, but grab a coffee, dine and even stay over from as little as $30 per night. sep/oct 2012

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THE ISLANTIS WAVE COMPLEX 10-12 Phillip Island Road Newhaven VIC P: (03) 5956 7553 E: info@islantis.com.au W: www.islantis.com.au 159

5/09/12 5:13 PM

THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: SA & TASMANIA

APARTSURF RE TALE FIVE: TODAY ONWARDS WORDS: Craig Baird of SurfWorld Museum Torquay

The quality and range of products available for surfers now is astounding, but while some things are gained, others can be lost. Often surfers are now separated from the people who make their essential equipment. At the point where unique hand built surfing artefacts become product, an important link is broken. Surfers should be able to talk directly with the people who make their gear and people that understand it. They should be able to find out what is best suited to their needs and why.

MID COAST SURF EVERYTHING TODAY’S SURFER NEEDS! Mid Coast Surf began in 1980 as two surfers who wanted to make good boards, but had been hand crafting surfboards as far back as 1969.

Manufacturers of Genesis Surfcraft Australia

We all feel that there should be a culture of excellence in everything we do. For all surfers, our role is to help them choose the board that will improve their surfing.

MID COAST SURF Units 6, 7 & 8 200 Dyson Road, Lonsdale SA

We do custom boards, wetsuits, accessories, repairs, surfwear.

midcoastsurf@kern.com.au

P: 08 83845522

www.midcoastsurf.com.au

We should all benefit from the wisdom and knowledge of experienced surfers and be able to enjoy a conversation about where we want to go within surfing and what we need to get there. We shouldn’t rely on advertorials telling us what we should be riding, or trust that a twenty word description on a website is all we need to know. As human beings we have a need to share information to listen and be listened to. Slick marketing and surfing megaplexes can remove much of that from us. I was so sad when I heard about MR’s shop closing in Newcastle. I felt a real sense of loss, which was weird. I haven’t spent a lot of time there or bought much gear from MR, his mum or Mick. It was more about the loss of what a shop like that represents. The Richard’s shop had been there for nearly all of surfing’s modern era. Think of all the people that had been through that place, surfers could get together and check out what was in the racks or on the shelves or snag one of MR’s classic boards out of the racks! What price could you put on being served by a four time surfing World Champion or having the chance to talk with him face to face about him hand carving a board just for you. If you have a local surf shop, support it, treasure it, embrace the mad characters that make it tick, because it probably fills a role beyond the obvious and one day it could be gone. A good surf shop provides an environment where many of surfing’s mysteries can be explained and your next dream machine may be waiting for you in the rack, or in the mind of the shaper out the back. Craig Baird useum fW Sur orld M ay qu Tor

RED HERRING SURF Red Herring Surf is Tasmania’s original surf company. Since beginning operations in Hobart in 1971, the company has expanded state-wide with 4 stores in Burnie, Launceston, Northgate and Hobart. Red Herring Surf is a market leader in surf retail and the name is synonymous with youth culture in Tasmania. Our strength lies in our staff members who offer quality customer service to all of our customers. Red Herring Surf is stoked to be local and part of the Tasmanian community. 160

RED HERRING SURF Hobart 75 Liverpool Street Launceston 127 Charles Street Burnie 12 Mount Street Northgate Shop 41 Northgate www.redherringsurf.com.au

MR at the ‘77 Stubbies. Photo courtesy of SurfWorld Torquay

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5/09/12 7:58 PM

THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: NEW ZEALAND

DOWN TO EARTH WORDS: DAVE SWAN

We love Kiwis and this is part of the reason why:

On a recent visit to the land of the long white cloud I ventured down Wellington way. Upon arrival there were some classic little peelers breaking in Lyall Bay. I have longed to surf this fun break right beside the airport

ever since watching the SEWN longboarding movie. The problem was... I had no surfboard.

been our experience ever since we set foot in New Zealand. If you haven’t been, you have to go.

I visited the friendly folk at Real Surf and five minutes later was tackling the slightly fresh 13 degree water. I had never met Robin or Roger before and yet they were so helpful. That has

Better still, after I got dressed, I planned to head somewhere to defrost and grab some breaky. I stumbled upon one of the coolest little cafés with absolutely awesome food and a

view of the beach. The Maranui Café is a quirky, 1940s-style cafe in the clubrooms of the Maranui Surf Club. As for the rest of Wellington, it gets a huge thumbs up from me. I can’t wait to get back. A great city by the water and a lot of fun. Now... Onto the shops.

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BRICKS & MORTALS

THEBOARDSHOP.CO.NZ “We won’t stock a product that we wouldn’t be happy using ourselves” LUKE JENKINS, OWNER

The Board Shop is as the name implies a shop that’s focus is on surf hardware, boards, wetsuits and surf accessories. Owner operated with over 16 years of supplying leading edge hardware under their belt The Board Shop know a thing or two about board construction and what works. While the buzz word in the surf industry over the last few years has been “epoxy” TBS have been pushing epoxy boards since their beginning. TBS’s focus has always been to supply boards that are more durable, responsive and environmentally friendly than traditional methods of surf board construction. Technology can be used not only to push the boundaries of high end surfing but also to make surfing easier and more fun for the first time , intermediate and pro surfer.

THE BOARD SHOP 49 Barrys Point Rd, Takapuna Auckland, NZ P: (09) 4860930 E: Info@theboardshop.co.nz W: www.theboardshop.co.nz 162

Their range of body boards, wetsuit, tail pads, leashes, and wax in stock is also probably the most comprehensive range NZ. As they believe variety is the spice of life, they are well worth checking out for your next purchase. Also worth a mention is that they also run The Roof Rack Shop, New Zealand Largest supplier of roof racks so they can get you racked up to get your new board home and to the beach.

TBS claims to have the largest range in New Zealand of Surfboards, long boards, And SUPs. With over 300 boards in stock ranging from high performance short boards, fish, fun-boards to massive super tanker mals and Sups. TBS caters for first timers to pros and everyone in between.

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THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: NEW ZEALAND

PIHA SURF SHOP Down the hill towards Piha beach, follow the handcrafted wooden sign on your right to the Piha Surf Shop. Run by Pam and Mike Jolly, the shop offers stunning views of Lion Rock and the beach. The shop has surfboards and surfing gear for hire or purchase. Lessons are available Caravan-cabin accommodation for backpackers, campers, travellers and beach-lovers is also available. Tranquil bush settings, basic facilities, very reasonable rates - from approx $25 pp/pn. Please enquire for a quote.

BACKDOOR Committed to surﬁng for over 24 years, Backdoor has just opened its new superstore in Barry’s Point Rd, Takapuna, and in mid-October is about to open a new superstore in Pacific Ave, Mt Maunganui. Takapuna will carry the largest surf hardware range in NZ with over 400 new surfboards, and both stores will carry the most comprehensive range of leading International brands like JS, Channel Islands, Firewire, DHD & Rusty to name a few, as we try our best to provide surfers with the best equipment to enjoy their surfing.

PIHA SURF 122 Seaview Rd Piha Beach, Auckland NZ P: (64) (09) 812-8723 E: pihasurf@xtra.co.nz

STORES: Auckland • Sylvia Park • Barry’s Point Rd, Takapuna Hamilton • 7 Worley Place • 390 Wairere Dr, Te Rapa • Westﬁeld Chartwell • DressSmart, The Base

So no matter what you’re after, from the latest high performance shortboard, malibu, mini mal, fish or softboard, a wetsuit from brands like Billabong, Rip Curl, O’Neill, & Quiksilver or accessories like fins, traction, leggie or a block of wax, get in and check out the biggest and best range in the country.

Matamata • 48 Arawa St Mt Maunganui • 24 Paciﬁc Ave • 89 Maunganui Rd Napier • 152 Emerson St Rotorua • 1207 Tutanekai St W: www.backdoor.co.nz

TUTUKAKA SURF EXPERIENCE From wannabes to the seasoned surfer, get in touch, we love all things surfing. We stock surf equipment and surf wear for all abilities. And for those who like to surround themselves with surf stuff, we have surf art, memorabilia and surf books. Can’t surf yet? Our coaching crew can teach you on one of the best coastlines in the world. Visit us on the Tutukaka coast - a Pacific Ocean paradise sep/oct 2012

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TUTUKAKA SURF EXPERIENCE Marina Road Tutukaka Coast Northland, NZ P: 09 43 44135

E: surf@tutukakasurf.co.nz W: www.tutukakasurf.co.nz

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BRICKS & MORTALS

BEACH STREET On the way to Fitzroy Beach, the Beach Street Surf Shop is modelled on yesteryear, not the chrome-andglass boutiques that masquerade as surf shops! Real surfers offering real advice, plus the best selection of boards on the coast. Open every day, all hours, surf dependent - as they should be! We also offer lessons from beginner to advanced. Our surf coach, Daisy Day, is also the region’s best and most famous surf photographer. The shop is home to Lost in the 60’s Surfwear and the BlackSand label and we have a good range of secondhand boards on offer.

BEACHSTREET SURF SHOP

Its all about surfing! 39 Beach St, Fitzroy New Plymouth, NZ

P: +64 (06)7580400 E: beachstreet@xtra.co.nz Like Beachstreet Surf Shop on Facebook!

KAIKOURA SURF At Kaikoura Surf, the South Island’s iconic surf shop, we stock all the major brands, including JS Surfboards, Volcom, O’Neill, Billabong, Rusty to name a few... We have a great range of surfboards, wetsuits and Stand Up Paddleboards. Surfkaikoura’s iconic prints in mens and womens are available in store: t-shirts, hoodies crews, caps and more. Hire all you need to get the most out of your stay in Kaikoura. We’ve got a huge range of surfboards - paddle boards - snorkel gear quality mountain bikes plus much more..

REAL SURF Real Surf is Wellington’s surf central. Boasting a huge range of services and products, including surfboards, SUPs and bodyboards, as well as wetsuits and accessories. We have a large range of skateboards, clothing, DVDs, books and magazines in store and online. We run our surf school all year round and are SNZ approved .We also have boards for hire. We have full factory facilities which allows us to offer custom boards, and to expertly repair damaged boards. 164

REAL SURF Cnr Kingsford Smith St & Lyall Parade, Lyall Bay, NZ P: 64 4 387-8798 E: team@realsurf.co.nz W: www.realsurf.co.nz

KAIKOURA SURF Kaikoura, NZ P: (03) 319 7173 info@kaikourasurf.co.nz www.surfkaikoura.co.nz Like us on Facebook

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5/09/12 7:40 PM

THE 2012 SURF SHOPS SPECIAL: NEW ZEALAND

“GREAT FOOD AND COFFEE, BRIILLIANT BEER, UNCROWDED BREAKS AND FRIENDLY PEOPLE ONLY TOO HAPPY TO HELP... WHY WOULDN’T YOU LOVE NZ?” EXIT SURF Exit Surf has been at the forefront of providing Christchurch locals and visiting surfers with the goods for over 25 years. Locally owned and operated, the staff at Exit Surf, know what equipment is needed to meet with the demanding pits of Scarborough and the heavy ledges that dominate the New Brighton reefs.

THE EXIT STAFF: From left: Keiry, Tristan, Anne, Ben, Morehu, Adam (not present)

At Exit Surf you will find one of the largest ranges of surfboards, stand up paddle boards, and accessories in New Zealand, and all our staff are keen surfers and stand up paddlers so we realise the importance of getting you the correct equipment for your needs. So, come down and see our friendly staff, or go online and check out our website which is updated daily and has a huge range product on it.

Board heaven

EXIT SURF SHOP 1020 Ferry Rd Ferrymead Christchurch, New Zealand P: +64 3 3842-813 E: shop@exitsurf.com W: www.exitsurf.com

Photo courtesy of Kaikoura Surf sep/oct 2012

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BRICKS & MORTALS

AUMOANA

SADHANA SURFBOARDS

Aumoana is a surf lifestyle inspired retail space in Christchurch.

Located in the historical Tannery site in Woolston, Christchurch, Sadhana Surfboards have been quietly building a reputation for its shapes and designs. We are excited to be opening our refurbished factory and retail store this October, which will feature handmade men’s and ladies wear, casual bags, board blankets, artworks, and, not forgetting , our range of finely finished sleds.

Enjoying surfing as a way of life rather than a sport we are dedicated to bring you an insight of the surf culture. If this is locally crafted surfboards or a carefully selected range of street wear. We love every single item in here! Aumoana is all about having a good time, come and check us out on your next visit to Sumner!

AUMOANA SURF GEAR & STREET WEAR 9 Wakefield avenue Sumner, Christchurch P: 033267444 E: shop@aumoana.co.nz W: www.aumoana.co.nz www.facebook.com/aumoana

NZ SHRED New Zealand’s premiere Snow - Surf - Skate - Street store, centrally located in the ‘Adventure Capital of NZ’, Queenstown and is locally owned and operated. From riding our endless snowy peaks in winter, to the acres of powder in Japan, hitting the remote coastal breaks of the deep South, or paddleboarding our vast and picturesque Lakes, NZSHRED staff are out there, DOING IT! Our knowledgeable staff will help get you into the most technically up-to-date and fashion-conscious product, at the best price around. Come stick your head in and say Hi, or visit us online. 166

Jase & Jon NZ SHRED

With a full repair service too, the Sadhana House of Creativity is your gateway to the South Islands surfing spoils.

SADHANA SURFBOARDS P/F: +64 (3) 389 5611

jay@sadhanasurfboards.co.nz www.sadhanasurfboards.co.nz

REPAIRS AND DEMOLITION

19 Shotover Street Queenstown

The boys of Sadhana have been through the ringer. Their factory was damaged in the quakes, it was temporarily repaired and then it was damaged again and eventually had to be completely refurbished through the winter. The good news is Jay and Shane are back.

P: (03) 442 6311 (Shop) (027) 785 9644 (Jon) (027) 405 4438 (Jase) W: www.nzshred.co.nz

The renovations have seen Sadhana become part of the new Tannery Development in Woolston and as such there is a happening new retail shop out front of the factory opening soon.

Queenstown’s Independent Snow * Surf * Skate * Street

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CLOSEOUT: FASHION

IDEAL CLOTHING

TWO SUNSHINE COAST GUYS PUT THEIR HEART AND SOUL INTO A BRAND NEW VENTURE, FOR GOOD, NOT EVIL - LOUD LIFE CLOTHING Kicking off a business generally needs a few ingredients: a product, an idea and a whole lot of energy. While Gus Murray and Jamie Edwards of Loud Life have all the above, they bring something else to the table: their vision for a better, more positive world for us all. “We get sick of seeing young kids being influenced by filthy brands,” Gus explains.“T-shirts with naked pictures and filthy words... We want to bring our own morals and beliefs into the things we draw and how we do our business.” “Each generation seems to be getting worse,” Jamie adds. “We just want to do something different to change the next generation.” Putting a positive spin on the rag trade, Gus and Jamie are intent on putting something good into the industry. Within two months of launch - yes, only two months - these up-and-comers are already reaping the rewards of their convictions. “We have a lot of Mums and Dads getting behind us. We hear comments that they love what we’re doing and want to see their kids in our stuff.”

IT’S A WRAP

KIRSTEN KIRSTEN GORITZ-KRAMER IS A FRESH NEW ARRIVAL TO OUR SHORES. LUCKILY FOR YOU GIRLS, SHE’S BROUGHT A BIT OF EUROPE ALONG WITH HER TO HER NEW HOME.

Originally from a small island in the Northern Sea between Denmark and Germany, Kirsten has a lot to wrap her head around right now - a new country, a new language, a wedding just two weeks away... But what she has to wrap around the ladies is just as exciting: Zand Skirts from Amsterdam. Kirsten tells us while shopping for a friend’s birthday present, she stumbled across the Zand skirts for the first time. “I came home with three of them myself, because I loved them all and couldn’t make up my mind.”

And it’s not just for business. Destiny Rescue - an organisation that saves children from sex slavery internationally - has also reaped some rewards. The boys have already made donations from their launch profits in support of the cause. “We’re not a massive company - bigger companies could definitely raise more,” Gus says humbly, while putting some ‘big companies’ to shame right off the bat. Deeds, not words... Gus and Jamie are truly setting the tone for the way business can and should be done. Remember the good old days of philanthropy? It doesn’t have to be dead. Get behind these guys and support what they stand for. There’s more to life than profit margins. loudlifeindustries.tumblr.com/ and join up with them on Facebook Jamie (left) and Gus (right): young philanthropeneurs.

TOP: Kirsten introduces the skirts tomarket-goers in Peregian Beach. INSERTS: With innovative design and extras like the matching pouch, these high quality garments are made to grab attention and to last.

These bright, functional and very funky fabric wraps are ideal for the summer surfing season. Easy on, easy off, they’re as bright in the design thinking as they are in their varied styles and colours. Cheer up your wardrobe and stand out this summer. For info or to buy, see: www.zand.com.au.

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

TEST FAMILY FUN G EVERKNYOCTKHITIN TILL “DON’T IT” YOU’VE TRIED

EL NINO 6’0” Flow RRP $199.95

It’s a chilly early Spring day, but Dad Karl and daughters Olivia and Ruby suit up and hit the beach at Happy Valley in Caloundra to give the El Nino Flow a go.

It’s a little chilly, but Ruby’s still keen

SO, YOU ASK... WHY A SOFTBOARD? SIMPLE! You can ride it between the flags. You can’t do too much damage to yourself or others. It doesn’t have a massive price tag and most of all, it’s just a whole lot of fun for all members of the family. With its funky, bright, orange fins, the El Nino Flow softboard was a hit all round. But don’t believe us, here’s what the experts had to say:

smorgasboarder says:

Olivia scores the longest run of the day

This went really well. Cheap alternatives ride like a lilo, and flex in all the wrong places, stalling your momentum on the wave. This had enough rigidity to get a 85kg walrus moving in 1-2ft waves.

KARL SAYS: I reckon it’s a lot like a normal surfboard. It’s got sharp rails, sturdy fins - but not sharp. Basically, it feels like a normal board, but just tamer because its soft.

OLIVIA SAYS: “I liked the colour of it... I liked the shape and the colour of the fins. I really liked the orange fins and that the board was soft.”

RUBY SAYS: “It was cool! I also liked the colours, the blue, the green... It was fun.” Note: Ruby got the ‘monster’ of the waves, and copped the board to the head. Fortunately, being a softboard, there was no damage and no tears - just want you want for the little ones!

SPECIFICATIONS:

Ruby kneeboards it, Greenough-style... 168

• • • • • •

3 pack removable screw-in fins 8.5lb NXL soft deck (seems very durable) Double substrate for added strength and durability EPSHG core with 2 x stringers for added strength Various colour combos available Leash plug

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A STICKY BUSINESS

POINTS OF VIEW

PART ONE: THE DISCOVERY TO THE ‘60S. WITHOUT WAX, WE’D BE SLIPPING ALL OVER THE PLACE LIKE STEADY EDDY ON THE DANCE FLOOR. ‘ONDI’ MARSAUS LOOKS AT THE HISTORY OF THE STUFF. In the early days of surfing traction technology, surfboard manufacturers would scratch sand over wet varnish to create a sandpaper-like finish on the deck of the board. This resulted in a gritty feel, chafed nipples and left you with no chest hair. Other methods included: carving ridges into the deck, adding timber batons, fixing rubber panels to the board or using resin impregnated with foam dust, sugar or some sort of abrasive grit. The most technically difficult method was to lay a fine wire screen over the board when it was being coated and removing it at the gel point of the process to reveal a pattern of exposed ridges. In 1935 after surfing the cove in Los Angeles one morning, Alfred Gallant arrived home, walked through his living room and his feet nearly stuck to the floor. His mother had waxed their wooden floors with liquid wax. This gave Alfred an idea, so he grabbed what was left in the bottle and waxed his board with it. When Alfred’s mother returned home she told him off for using her expensive floor wax and suggested he use the cheaper paraffin that she used for sealing her preserves. He tried the paraffin and the results were brilliant, so the boys re-varnished their boards without the sand to make them smooth, and the wax revolution began. Thirty years later, experimenting led to people melting paraffin down, re-shaping it with additives and selling it as ‘surf wax’. Aussies used to purchase their paraffin from chemists or hardware shops where the salesmen would smash a chunk of wax off with a hammer. The first marketed waxes were Ampol, Golden Fleece, Esso and BP - all petroleum companies - and were generally around 150 grams per block. Ampol actually sponsored the 1964 World Contest in Manly. In 1966, Bower Boy dominated the wax market in Australia with a 250gram round block with a sticker on the side in a summer and winter formula. Also in ’66 Slipcheck Aerosol Wax was available from Morey Pope in the USA. It was available in many colours with the most popular being the White Nose Patch popularised by Tom Morey’s nose riding in ’65. In 1967 Mike Doyle and Rusty Miller started Surf Research and made the infamous purple Waxmate. That’s when wax seriously took off.

101 REASONS TO SUPPORT YOUR LOCAL SHAPER

Guardsg,s le d d a P Nose &pe & Leash Plu Rail Ta

Ok, so a small exaggeration on the 101, but I do have a few points to make on the subject. Purchasing your stick from a local dude or dudette is infinitely kinder on the environment and ultimately our ocean. Regardless of the toxic nature of traditional and mainstream surfboard manufacture - the simple fact most boards used to be produced by local shapers to service local markets made them better than the supply chain we see today. Whilst the surfing community have become so much more educated on how harmful surfboard manufacturing is and the impact it can have on the ocean environment, the nature of global trade and the ever increasing popularity of surfing worldwide, has resulted in mass-produced imitations being churned out at an alarming rate from our northern neighbours. What’s so bad about this, you ask? Now everyone can get a board cheap as chips and enjoy the stoke, just like us? Well, there are a few ecological reasons for stemming the flow of cheaper offshore imports. 1) Despite some of the bigger players assuring us of best practice, developing countries have less stringent environmental and safety standards, which result in more emissions of toxic chemicals into the general environment, not to mention possible substandard treatment of workers - although not many work harder than the average shapers here at home! 2) The energy used by developing countries in general is higher, resulting in a more pollution and there’s a high energy toll from transportation worldwide. Finally, 3) outsourcing board manufacture to Asia results in lost local jobs, impacting the local community structure permanently. Essentially, purchasing cheap alternatives is not only hurting your local shaper, it’s ultimately hurting your local break. I’m sure that’s a travesty we’d all rather avoid. Next time you purchase a brand new ride, remember this mantra: love thy shaper.

k Fins Pro Tec

pair Kts

afe Re Travel S

NEXT EDITION: Sticking in the ‘70s through to the wax we use today.

New surf shop, old-school feel 3/77 Noosa Drive, Noosa Heads, QLD

WWW.UNDERGROUNDSURF.COM.AU

Nicola O’Reilly is the better half of the nice folks from Surfing Green, a couple passionate about providing sustainable surfing products.

www.surfinggreen.com.au

SURFTECH AUSTRALIA www.surftechaustralia.com.au 02 4226 1322

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CLOSEOUT: MUSIC

MAIN: Barrie Sutherland captures Red making the most of Picnic Point in 2007. For more of Barrie’s work and the story behind it, see page 66.

WORDS: DAVE SWAN

REDDY, SET... Red Whyte is not your average surfer come musician. In fact he has mastered some thousand instruments from the flute to the sitar, mandolin, acoustic and electric guitar, fretless and fretted bass, didgeridoo, percussion and drums. He does vocals, is an artist, photographer and self confessed fruitcake. As a surfer he tackles the kind of waves down in deep southern Victoria that make you warm your wetsuit. Right now he’s hell-bent on mastering flextails and finless surfboards. And why not, he has just completed his sixteenth album in just eighteen years.

On a recent trip to the Victorian Surf Coast, where Red was born and bred, I talked to him about his music and surfing. I first asked how he would describe his style of music because I have no friggin idea how to. It is all so varied but really cool and out-there. We have played a countless number of Red’s CDs over and over each time we have put an edition of smorgasboarder to bed. Red says the inspiration behind his music is the sea and surf culture, describing his aural experimentation as a hybrid of unusual mixtures of trance-technosurf-jazz-fusion meeting a more energetic, sonic hard-rock feel, with vocals all interwoven...

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DAVE: OK, I STILL HAVE NO IDEA BUT IT DOES SOUND COOL. SO HOW DID IT ALL START? Red: I started playing gigs back in 1983, first locally and then interstate and overseas. I was the singer/songwriter for eighties band Inked Factor, I also played drums in 80s bands Beatnik Blud and Wolfgang Band, played guitar in other bands including Soundgasm, Tantric Tuberiders, Swell, Zebra Puke and Anglehorse and played bass in 90s band Raindance. I also played with international DJs as a percussionist and drummer. I have been playing with a couple of bands of late. One called Squid, they play a bit of funk and my old band Surfusion is still going. We

GO! have been going since 2001. We have three albums out now. We’ve played the Bells Beach Rip Curl Pro for quite a fair few years. We’ve had some memorable Easters - full on party time - but I am getting a bit old for that. Can’t do a Thursday to Sunday anymore. I have to have my day off.

SPEAKING OF WHICH, WHERE DO YOU RECORD?

I have played nearly every weekend since the start from big stage events to café’s, bars, hotels, festivals and gatherings. All these events have been a good way of getting my music out there.

I use studios in Geelong, Melbourne, Lakes Entrance, Byron. It is good to record in different places, a change of headspace. I have never been that interested in recording at home. I always wanted someone else to do it for me. Although recently I just bought a little dictaphone thing and the quality is amazing. A couple of tracks on this new album have been recorded at home. It is incredible where technology is going.

I don’t make a huge amount of money, but it’s a good way to live your life. Money is not everything. All I need money for is to record more CDs.

ABOVE Red loves Jed. Red having a flex with a Bushrat board. Photo: Dave Swan.

CAN YOU RECALL A FAVOURITE GIG? We like to hire out a generator and do a massive text out, rock up to some beach and go, ‘Hey we’re playing.’ It’s really good fun playing to the ocean. Crank up the amps and play really loud to the sea (laughs).

MUSIC WE LIKE: NEW RELEASES

It’s funny when there are surfers out at Winkipop, they turn around, look up at the hill and go, ‘Mate! There’s a band playing.’ YOUR OWN MUSIC IS SO VARIED, IS THERE A PARTICULAR STYLE OF MUSIC YOU LIKE TO LISTEN TO? I have a pretty broad taste in music. I am right into jazz at the moment. I’d love to do a jazz album one day. I listen to a lot of minimalist rock - bands like Shipping News. I’m right into 60s and 70s stuff too, particularly early Australian surf bands like Taman Shud and all the offshoots from that. There’s a lot of stuff out there to be discovered. It’s like a treasure trove looking up all these old bands. BARRIE SUTHERLAND (FAMED VICTORIAN SURF PHOTOGRAPHER) MENTIONED YOU’RE QUITE AN ACCOMPLISHED SURFER... Back when I was a teenager I had a bit of a go at the comp thing. Didn’t really like it. I’ve always been on the chase. I like discovering new waves. Down the west coast, naming and claiming them... My own names, anyhow. I haven’t surfed that much big stuff over the last five years. I’ve kind of lost the taste for it. I was a bit of a charger back in the day. Paddle out, Port Campbell, Twelve to fifteen feet. It’s not really the size, but the bulk of the waves down there. Then tow in surfing came in... I have been enjoying a bit of finless surfing lately down near Bird Rock. Can definitely surf right on it and do a little tricks and turns. Can’t really go left though. You don’t surf it, it kind of surfs you which is fun. That’s why living in Bells and surfing down here is great. It’s not that crowded. You can do your own thing. Drive two hours anywhere from here and you are looking for someone to surf with. For more on the man, see www.redwhyte.com BELOW: Red and six-stringed friend. Photo: Lionel Lee

ASA BROOMHALL

10c IN QUEBEC

RED WHYTE

LOVEWAGON/VITAMIN

INDEPENDENT RELEASE

ONLY BLUES MUSIC



Asa Broomhall’s new album is a folky/bluesy/country-ish affair that is unbelievably pleasant to have in the player. Asa does a fantastic job of the instrumentla side, with catchy acoustic and electric guitar parts topped with his very comfortable and soulful voice. Of the 10 tracks, he even fits in his great interperetation of Bob Marley’s Waiting in Vain. Standout tracks for me are the opener If Anything and the beachy We Want Sun. Worth a listen, worth seeing live and most certainly worth supporting. Get yourself a copy of Jangle House today! www.asabroomhall.com (Mark Chapman)

Bugger me if this isn’t one cracker of rock EP. When local Sunshine Coast surfer Matt Kelly dropped this around, I didn’t even know he was into music, let alone in a band. I didn’t know what to expect, but his band’s EP is not just good, it’s phenomenal. Like listening to a mix of my favourite music from when I grew up to the present day, with influences from bands like Australian ‘80s rock band the Sunnyboys, with some Van Halen-style guitar riffs and a bit of Blind Melon. After hearing five songs I can’t wait to here more. See www.facebook.com/ tencentsinquebec. (Dave Swan)

“An Aussie Surf-Acoustic Chillaxing Album... Perfect for all Types of Film Music” is what the CD cover says... Red Whyte is one amazing guitar player, with a wicked sense of humour, leftfield lyrics and some of the best song titles ever: South African Prawn Cat Food and If Hendrix was alive today he’d be playing jazz... Basically bordering on disturbed, the album is a great addition to Red’s ever-growing catalogue of unique releases. Do yourself a favour, broaden that mind, and check it out. For more, see the website: www.redwhyte.com. (Mark Chapman)

JANGLE HOUSE

SELF TITLED EP

OFF THE ROCKS VOL.2

ASA’S HOUSE OF JANGLE We like Asa Broomhall. His slide-driven, stomp-boxing, blues-dripping tunes are as catchy as this year’s round of winter flu and are as soulful as the Dalai Llama at a yoga camp. We caught up with him at the Railway Hotel in Byron Bay a while back and were further impressed at what a good bloke he was to chat to as well. If you missed out on his recent Jangle House album release tour, you can still catch him at the Caloundra Music Festival, September 28-30. More at www.asabroomhall.com or like him on Facebook to keep up with news. sep/oct 2012

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Brought to you by

SURF TRIP ACCOMMODATION

COOLUM BEACH

Noel Mooney - 0417 756 076 coolumbusinessandtourism.com

Welcome to a world of beachbreaks, boosts, barrels and brilliant fun - Coolum Beach on the Sunshine Coast North Shore. Beyond the tourist strip of Mooloolaba and just south of the righthand pointbreaks of Noosa, the water here is warm all year ‘round and there’s no shortage of surf breaks. It’s a true surfers playground and a top destination with a unique personality and charm. Here are your top choices for accommodation.

EXECUTIVE ACCOMMODATION

PET-FRIENDLY ACCOMMODATION

YOUR CHOICE OF HOLIDAY APARTMENTS

Managing over 25 executive beach homes and apartments from Twin Waters through to Coolum Beach, Coolum Holidays has the perfect property to indulge all of your needs while on vacation.

Take your four legged friend on your next holiday! Enjoy a stress free holiday knowing your pet is safe with you. Pet friendly holidays are becoming increasingly popular and Coolum Holidays has 30 holiday homes that specialise in providing the right accommodation for you and your pooch. All our holiday homes adhere to strict policies and conditions so that your holiday with your beloved pet is safe, secure and comfortable.

Managing an array of self contained apartments on the beautiful North Shore, Coolum Holidays will help you find the perfect apartment to relax in whether it be for two nights or two months.

All of our executive properties are tastefully decorated throughout and provide a high standard of facilities including swimming pool, air conditioning, bbq and pay television. Accommodating singles, couples and families, our portfolio of executive accommodation will surely not disappoint. P: 1300 303 423

www.coolumholidays.com.au

A $110.00 non refundable pet fee applies to all bookings made – a small price to pay for peace of mind. P: 1300 303 423

www.coolumholidays.com.au

From $1300 a week, shorter stays available

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From $490 a week, shorter stays available

Stay in one our apartments and stretch out with more privacy and space than a hotel room, perfect for an extended stay or corporate accommodation. We can offer you a great deal on one, two and three bedroom apartments – phone our friendly booking consultants today. P: 1300 303 423

www.coolumholidays.com.au

From $490 a week, shorter stays available

COOLUM BEACH GETAWAY RESORT 3-7 First Ave, Coolum Beach A modern 4½ star resort. 18 spacious, air-conditioned 1, 2 & 3 bedroom townhouse-style units and apartments with self-contained kitchens, laundry and lock up garage. Tropical gardens, heated pool and spa, half tennis court, plus bike and surfboard hire. One street back from the beach with a quiet, pleasant family atmosphere. Proximity: Only a short stroll to Coolum’s fabulous beach, alfresco dining and shopping. Located centrally on the Sunshine Coast, the tourist attractions, world-class golf courses and rainforest walks are all within easy driving distance. P: 07 5471 6759 F: 07 5471 6222 Australia: 1300 723 263 E: info@getawayresort.com.au www.getawayresort.com.au Phone for your special price

SEACHANGE COOLUM BEACH 1864 David Low Way, Coolum Beach

A world away from the everyday... 35 boutique holiday apartments with style and character... The ideal retreat for your tropical getaway. Designed to be different from the rest, Seachange features fully selfcontained one, two bedroom and family apartments - some with private rooftop spas and ocean views, all immaculately presented by resident managers who offer you personalised friendly service. Isn’t it time you experienced Seachange? Proximity: Walking distance to beach, local shops, restaurants P: 07 5471 7799 F: 07 5446 5380 Freecall: 1800 008 112

info@seachangecoolumbeach.com.au seachangecoolumbeach.com.au

Call for best rates

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BUSINESS PROMOTION

SURFING COOLUM Surf spots within close vicinity include Coolum main beach where a consistent left-hander reels in from in front of the surf club. At the southern end of the beach below the lookout at Point Perry, when the swell is 4 foot plus, a quality righthander can break close to the rocks. This wave is definitely the standout when it’s on but typically a place for the chargers in the surfing community. Just over the headland the FIRST and SECOND BAY (from the water it is really one bay) are also popular and fairly consistent. Although surrounded by rocks, the bottom is largely sand and the lefts and rights can be found depending on where you want to sit. In rare conditions, THIRD BAY breaks but this is definitely rocky and risky.

COOLUM CAPRICE 1770 David Low Way, Coolum Beach Located right in the heart of Coolum Beach, our ocean view, fully self contained apartments cater for couples, families and groups. With 1, 2 or 3 bedroom apartments to choose from, Coolum Caprice boasts the best views and location in town. Proximity: Middle of town, walking distance to shops and restaurants. Directly across the road from the beach and Surf Club. 15 minutes Sunshine Coast Airport and 1½ hours from Brisbane Airport. Phone: 07 5446 2177 E: relax@coolumcaprice.com.au www.coolumcaprice.com.au From $140 per night Smorgasboarder reader special:

Call today for 20% off!

ENDLESS SUMMER RESORT 9-21 Frank St, Coolum Beach

COOLUM SEASIDE 6-8 Perry St, Coolum Beach

This is the perfect place to stay in Coolum for holiday resort accommodation. Ideal for couples or the whole family. Choose from fully self-contained and spacious apartments located in a peaceful setting, away from traffic, but only a 100m stroll to the surf beach, main restaurants and sidewalk shops. Fantastic 25m heated pool, waterslide, children’s playground and mini golf on-site.

Perfectly positioned to take full advantage of the Sunshine Coast’s natural scenic beauty and holiday attractions. Our fully self-contained AAA 5-star rated one to four bedroom apartments are air conditioned and have Austar, LCD TVs, CD & DVD players. Roof terraces are available with majestic coastal & hinterland views. Facilities include 3 heated pools, 4 spas, tennis court, gymnasium, internet lounge/ library and poolside barbecues.

Proximity: 100m to patrolled surf beach and shops. Phone: +61 7 5471 9800

E: holiday@endlesssummerresort.com

www.endlesssummerresort.com Keep an eye on our web page for specials throughout the year or call direct to ask for our special surfer’s rates.

Proximity: Short stroll to patrolled beach, shops, cafes and restaurants. Phone: 1800 809 062 E: info@coolumseaside.com www.coolumseaside.com Check our specials online

COOLUM MOTEL & BUDGET ACCOMMODATION 1862 David Low Way, Cnr Ann St, Coolum Beach

ELEMENT ON COOLUM BEACH 1808 David Low Way, Coolum Beach

Coolum Motel is ideally located across from beautiful Coolum Beach. We offer a variety of room types ranging from Private Ensuited Rooms to Budget and Backpacker style and facilities. For a family friendly venue offering fantastic deals and discounts Stay with us!

This is seaside luxury right on Coolum Beach. These self contained luxury Coolum beach apartments combine the best of urban chic and beachside living. Stay in either a one, two or three bedroom holiday apartment right in the heart of Coolum and right across from Coolum Beach. Surf all day and stay in style at Element on Coolum Beach.

Proximity: Short walking distance to restaurants, shops and clubs. Phone: 07 5471 6666 E: info@coolummotel.com www.coolummotel.com From only $ 35 per night. Quote this magazine for 20% DISCOUNT!

Proximity: 1 minute walk to beach, shops and restaurants. Phone: 1300 139 744

stay@elementoncoolumbeach.com.au www.elementoncoolumbeach.com.au

From only $149 per night in a one bedroom apartment

Dates and conditions apply

sep/oct 2012

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SURF TRIP ACCOMMODATION QUEENSLAND

Planning a surfing holiday or weekend away? These fine accommodation options offer great proximity to surf beaches in some of Australia best surf spots and beyond. Get out there.

NEW SOUTH WALES

PORTOBELLO BY THE SEA  6 Beerburrum St, Dicky Beach Caloundra Fantastic surf spots right on your doorstep. Moffat, Neill Street, Dicky Beach all within a 5 minute walk. Luxury accommodation within 50 m of some of the best restaurants Caloundra has to offer. Proximity: Across from patrolled Dicky Beach, on-site dining and shopping. Phone: 07 5491 9038

E: info@portobellobythesea.com.au

www.portobellobythesea.com.au From $325 for two nights.

TASMANIA

SHAMBHALA @ BYRON 14 Childe St, Byron Bay

SOUTHVIEW BULLI 19 Southview Street, Bulli

Majestic, hidden beachfront just minutes to the heart of town. Relax after a day in the surf in our ambient and tranquil environment. Beautiful rainforest setting with private spas, steam room, sauna. Perfect for couples or families. 5-star, selfcontained tree house retreats.

Southview is a bed & breakfast and self contained holiday accommodation, nestled between Sandon Point Beach and Bulli Beach. Recently rated 4.5 stars by AAA tourism it is the perfect place to unwind and perfect for the surfer and their family.

Proximity: Absolute beachfront, on surf friendly Belongil beach. 15 m walk to centre of town P: 1-800-SHAMBHALA E: enquiries@shambhala.org.au www.shambhala.org.au From $279 per night Quote promo code: SURF AD

Proximity: Nestled Between Sandon Point and Bulli Beach Telephone: 02 4268 6303 E: info@southviewbulli.com.au

www.southviewbulli.com.au From $145 per couple

KIAMA COVE BOUTIQUE MOTEL 10 Bong Bong St, Kiama

MARRAWAH BEACH HOUSE 19 Beach Road, MARRAWAH

UNDER NEW MANAGEMENT

The Beach House is located on an organic beef farm on the wild, west coast of Tasmania. The comfortable, self contained twobedroom cottage has spectacular views of the Southern Ocean and easy access to the beach. The perfect base to explore the wilderness of the Tarkine and Arthur River areas. 1 ½ hrs drive from Burnie Airport and 2 ½ hrs drive from Devonport Ferry.

Kiama Cove Boutique Motel is in a fantastic location right near the heart of Kiama overlooking Surf Beach. The motel offers ocean views, king sized beds in most rooms, off-street parking, free Austar, swimming pool and a fabulous sun lounge area overlooking the beach. Proximity: Right on Surf Beach and a short stroll to the main street of Kiama. Phone: 02 4232 4500 E: info@kiamacove.com.au

www.kiamacoveboutiquemotel.com.au

Proximity: Close to quality reef and beach breaks as well as the local general store and hotel. P: 03 6457 1285 or 0428 571 285

Room rates are from $90 to $200 for family rooms

Rates from $140 per night

E: marrawahbeachhouse@activ8.net.au

VICTORIA

COOLANGATTA SANDS HOSTEL Cnr McLean and Griffith Street, Coolangatta

NOVOTEL WOLLONGONG NORTHBEACH 9 Shirley Street, BYRON BAY

Your ultimate surf HQ! Where else can you find some of the world’s best beaches and beach breaks on your doorstep - Kirra, Snapper Rocks, D-Bah, Rainbow Bay, Greenmount and Coolangatta? Free breakfast, free pick-up, economical shared and private rooms. Stay three nights and you can travel to Byron Bay for free on our shuttle bus! Part of the Coolangatta Adventure Crew.

Outrigger Bay is the perfect Byron getaway for the ultimate relaxing holiday. With direct access to the beach, these fabulous 2 or 3 bedroom apartments are not only in a stunning location but are also so close to Byron’s great restaurants and bars. This is an ideal location for a surfing holiday with the family or a group of friends.

Proximity: Across from great surf breaks, restaurants, nightlife Phone: 07 5536 7472 E: hostel@taphouse.com.au

www.coolangattasandshostel.com.au

Proximity: DIRECT ACCESS to beach - only 50m walk. 2 min walk to town centre shops. P: 02 6685 8646 E: info@outriggerbay.com www.outriggerbay.com

Rates from $29 per night

From $195 per night

TV 174

gym

laundry

kitchen

parking

wi-fi

2-14 Cliff Rd, North Wollongong

Stunning ocean views, spacious, light filled rooms and a reputation for exceptional service has made Novotel Wollongong Northbeach one of New South Wales’s most popular getaway and business venues. Opposite North Wollongong beach, the 4 ½ star hotel boasts 204 rooms and suites. Catering for both the leisure and business traveller, there’s a range of facilities and services including pool, spa, fitness centre, day spa, restaurant and two bars.

SCAMANDER BEACH SHACK 130 Scamander Ave, SCAMANDER SILVERWATER RESORT 17 Potters Hill Rd, San Remo Spacious one, two and three-bedroom self-contained apartments all with spectacular bay views and modern conveniences. Complementing the 4.5 star accommodation is an excellent range of resort facilities including indoor and outdoor pool, billiards and games room, tennis and basketball courts, restaurant and bar.

Proximity: Beach 50m, CBD 2km, train Station 1km, Sydney Airport 70km Phone: 02 4224 3111 www.novotelnorthbeach.com.au

Proximity: Five mins to surf beach, two mins to town Phone: 1800 033 403 res@silverwaterresort.com.au www.silverwaterresort.com.au

From $209 per night

From $175 per night

pool

airconditioning

family-friendly

pet-friendly

This is the ultimate authentic beach shack and only $130 per night, anytime of the year! Amazing location right opposite Tasmania’s premium east-coast surfing beach. Uninterrupted views of waves and the Scamander River mouth provide breathtaking scenery sitting in the comfort of the shack. An ideal getaway for surfers and their families or keen fisherpersons plus a cosy getaway for a couple. Proximity: Right opposite Scamander Beach. Phone: 0400 912 583

www.scamanderbeachshack.com

$130 per night, all year round

spa

bbq

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The resort has spectacular views over Westernport Bay and Phillip Island and offers spacious one, two and three bedroom self-contained apartments. All feature modern conveniences, fully equipped kitchen facilities, and a barbeque on every apartment balcony.

Keen to hop on a plane? Accommodation now further afield!

NEW ZEALAND

PIWIWIWI SURF CAMPERVAN RENTALS Raglan NZ DON’T STAY... EXPLORE! The only campervan rentals company in New Zealand aimed at surfers. Vans are kitted out with all the gear you need including straps to hold your boards safe INSIDE the van. PiwiWiwi is a small, friendly company based in the magic surf town of Raglan. Transfers to and from Auckland Airport available. Raglan Office: +64 7 825 0974 NZ Free Phone: 0800 74 94 94 E: info@piwiwiwi.co.nz www.piwiwiwi.co.nz

FEATURED PROPERTY:

SILVERWATER RESORT

San Remo, Victoria

Set high on the rolling hills of San Remo, the gateway to Phillip Island, the 4.5 star Silverwater Resort is Victoria’s ‘Natural Holiday Destination.’ With Phillip Island home to some amazing surf beaches, the resort is your perfect base for exploring the island and its breaks. Surf beaches for all levels are within a 20 minute drive from the resort, with the most popular being Woolamai Beach, Smiths Beach, and Kilcunda.

Guests can be as relaxed or active as they wish with an impressive range of leisure facilities on offer including, restaurant, café and bar, indoor and outdoor pools, spa pool and steam room, gymnasium, illuminated tennis and basketball courts, beach volleyball court, bocce, children’s entertainment room and outdoor playground, billiards room, plus the resort’s very own oval “The Village Green”. During school holidays the resort even offers a fun-filled kids activity program with daily arts and crafts activities, kids parties and special activities. For more information visit www.silverwaterresort.com.au or call 1800 033 403.

From $25 per night

ADVERTISE IN SURF ACCOMMODATION Sup

CHRISTMAS ISLAND

er-affordable rates for the smallest of budgets. Call 0401 345 201

SURF FESTIVAL... TIME TO VISIT BYRON BAY! With the Byron Bay Festival of Surfing on at the end of October, it’s the perfect time to book a trip to the perfect place. But where to stay? CHRISTMAS ISLAND SURF

NO CROWDS! GREAT SETUPS!

London Village, Kiritimati

AU$1,395 per week/guest. This includes: Airport transfers, accommodation, all meals and daily boat transfers to the best waves. Check out ‘Kiritimati Island’ on Google Earth. We have no crowds yet and many, many set-ups. Be one of the first to surf this new discovery. Flights go via Fiji with Air Pacific’s ‘Bula Saver’ airfare special.

Outrigger Bay Apartments offer fantastic group and family options, and if you’re after some luxurious privacy, Shambhala’s self-contained treehouse retreats could be just what you need. For contact details, see the listings on the left, and for info on the festival, see Page 44.

Proximity: 100m walk to London’s waves, half hour boat ride to Paris’ waves. P: + 64 027 4484 598 E: info@christmasislandsurf.com

www.christmasislandsurf.com

Photo courtesy OF BBSF sep/oct 2012

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