Treasure hunt

TREASURE HUNT By Shaye Galen Illustration by Sarah Scambray

Now that second-hand styles have shed their stigma, shoppers rush to embrace the thrifting trend.

The newest trend in shopping isn’t new at all. In fact, it’s old — as in old clothes. Whether they’re referred to as second-hand, pre-loved or thrift-store treasures, customers can’t get enough of closet castoffs.

For years, second-hand shopping bore a stigma that made shoppers who could afford alternatives stay away. “There is a stigma because the word ‘thrift’ makes it sound cheaper and less enticing for the shopper,” said Tenni King, a wardrobe stylist and personal shopper in Dallas.

Tim Heis agrees. As the chief executive officer of Goodwill Industries of Dallas, Inc., a nonprofit that operates a network of thrifting destinations, he’s seen Goodwill’s shoppers evolve. “We still have a healthy balance of buyers who are looking for affordable options for everyday clothes,” but he is also seeing “steady and slightly increasing set of buyers that are more on the treasure hunt for key items for their wardrobe.”

What’s driving this thrifting renaissance?

Plenty, say experts and shoppers. Those who thrift appreciate that it’s a more ecologically responsible way to shop. It’s also gotten easier to find second-hand merchandise thanks to a growing number of resale e-commerce sites and the re-concepting of existing thrift stores. And when shoppers buy from charities like Goodwill, they can support social service missions with every purchase.

Thrifting is the fashion equivalent of going green. The average American throws away about 82 pounds of clothes a year, according to Planet Aid, a nonprofit organization that recycles textiles. These tossed-out garments contribute to textile waste packing America’s landfills — nearly 17 million tons in 2017 alone, according to U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimates.

When clothes stay in closets, they don’t end up in dumps. Thrift stores like Goodwill and The Salvation Army also keep unsold clothes from polluting the earth, selling them to salvage markets for repurposing creations. “We don’t have any impact on how things are manufactured,” said Heis, but reselling allows for a second and third life.

Luckily, the resale shopping experience has become easier and more upscale than ever before.

An explosion of reseller apps like Poshmark and Mercari, plus trendy ecommerce sites specializing in thrifting, inspire savvy shoppers to give thrifting a try. It’s working: A 2019 retail report by ThredUp, the largest online consignment and thrift store, showed that 64% of women bought or are now willing to buy secondhand, up from 45% in 2016.

Brick-and-mortar thrift stores are also taking part in the change, ditching the stereotype of dusty, unorganized storefronts. “It’s not your kind of grandma’s thrift shop,” said Heis about Goodwill. Many of its resale stores have been remodeled and expertly merchandised, he said, to create a shopping experience that’s “fun and also stress-free.”

It’s not just easier to thrift-shop, it’s also getting trendier thanks to Instagram. Fashion influencers and bloggers are using Instagram to buy, sell and show off their one-of-a-kind finds with hashtags like #liveatthethrift, #roundtwovintage and #thriftfind.

“We’re in a culture where it is very much on-trend to post pictures of yourself enjoying experiences, and a fundamental part of those experiences is what people are wearing,” said Heis. “It makes it socially acceptable, it makes it interesting, and it really makes the treasure hunt come alive.”

Many shoppers also appreciate that their dollars make a difference in other people’s lives. Consumers thrift because they want to help organizations and give back to the community, said Salomon Elias of The Salvation Army Adult Rehabilitation Center in Dallas. Proceeds from the Salvation Army’s thrift stores directly support the center’s outreach and programming for men with substance abuse issues. With every thrift store purchase, Elias said, “you save a life, you save a soul, you save a family.”

So next time someone asks about the origins of that stylish outfit, say it loud and proud: “Sorry, not sorry, it’s thrifted.”

Modernized

By Mira Sewaiseh

With men now dressing for self-expression, menswear marketing has had to man up and make a change.

Jake Charnes

Class of 2022 @jake_charnes

“Don’t be into trends. Don’t make fashion own you, but decide what you are, what you want to express by the way you dress and the way you live.” — Gianni Versace

What does a typical American man wear? Today, the answer is anything he wants. Modern menswear is bold. It’s frilly. It’s colorful. Men can step out in clothes that show off their creativity. They can express their thoughts and feelings through a personal style, no matter what anyone else thinks.

Historically, menswear and fashion did not always go together. Perhaps the most iconic feature of American menswear is the traditional suit — a uniform rendered in simple colors like black, brown and navy blue. “If you were an immigrant coming into the United States and you were a man, one of the first things you did was buy a suit, so you could fit in with the rest of the population,” said Michael Londrigan, fashion merchandising professor at LIM College in Manhattan. “The suit portrayed wealth, power and uniformity. It allowed everyone to communicate the same messages amongst such a uniform design.”

However, this value of uniformity has been thrown out the door, and now individuality and expression are prioritized in the menswear industry. It is becoming more common for men to abandon gender restrictions and have the freedom to make personal statements through their style. “I think that they’re just making a personal statement that they are really comfortable with whatever they do, however they dress,” said Londrigan.

The menswear evolution is the result of the changing understanding of what it means to be an American man. Men have shifted from viewing clothes as a standard necessity to recognizing the opportunity for expression through clothing. Instead of fitting in by wearing a uniform, there is value in standing out — and men feel more comfortable standing apart from the pack. As a result, fashion marketers have had to change the way they communicate with men about clothes.

The fashion industry starts with the question of what it means to be masculine. According to a recent survey of 1,005 men and women conducted by GQ Online, over 70% of those surveyed said men want to be described as honest or respectful, while less than 20% of those surveyed

said men want to be identified as macho or muscular. This data illustrates a movement away from men prioritizing masculinity to valuing genuine self-expression.

“Within the box of hyper-masculinity, there is no space for self-expression through fashion, but today, men have broken through that shell and now feel free to explore fashion on their own terms,” said GQ magazine style writer Rachel Tashjian. “I think a lot of men are thinking, ‘I don’t care what you think about me, and that is so liberating.” This newfound sense of freedom allows for creative liberty through daring textures and designs.

“Clothing is one of the spaces right now where men can experiment and make mistakes and do fun and weird things,” Tashjian added. “It’s almost like a safe space.”

Social media plays a role in allowing men to showcase their personal style. According to FashionBeans, in an article titled “The State of Menswear in 2020,” social media has “generated an acceptability among men in having an interest in clothes.” The piece states that social media is a contributing factor in the growth of the menswear market because it allows people to display their outfits with a confident air, and these digital presences inspire others to develop a similar style. This cycle has contributed significantly to the shift in popularizing breaking the boundaries of gender.

Another way men are now able to express this newfound fashion freedom is by wearing pieces that have more feminine origins. With inspiration from celebrities like Harry Styles, men have implemented lace tops, silk pants and brooches on jackets, and nobody bats an eye. Red carpet looks are posted onto social media immediately, and while these extravagant ensembles are not an everyday style, men are able to use social media for reference as they incorporate similar pieces into their wardrobe.

While male celebrities demonstrate the possibility of wearing flamboyant pieces, which can be as subtle as jewelry or as extravagant as ball gowns, they also serve as a genius marketing tool that was not an original tactic in the men’s fashion industry. Tashjian said that celebrities interpret runway looks in ways that flatter people who are not necessarily models. This marketing method persuades men to be bolder in their purchases and go for abnormal pieces that they can wear with confidence.

“Ultimately, everyone wants to be as individual as possible — everyone

wants not to be a part of the pack,” said celebrity stylist Michael Fisher, who’s represented by The Wall Group, a talent agency in New York City. Fisher’s clients include Hugh Jackman, James Corden and Adam Driver, among many other big Hollywood names. Fisher notes that men can stand out in the fashion world by making style choices others around them are not making.

This movement of men dressing with a more bold, feminine flair is just beginning. The recent fashion week shows are displaying this evolution. “Menswear has gotten a bit more of a romantic, feminine vibe to it all.” Fisher said. “It’s going to allow the people that have the natural inclination to dress that way to feel empowered to dress that way.”

As the market for menswear changes, so too must the way the fashion industry markets to men. Effective marketing to men once emphasized two aspects: functionality and uniformity. Londrigan said that the menswear market used to be “hit and run,” which enabled men to run into a store, get the shirt they needed for their uniform and run out without exploring other pieces that allow for creative expression.

According to a Business Insider article detailing the evolution of men’s style, one of the early marketing tactics was the trend cycle. With the introduction of readyto-wear clothes in America came mass production, and Business Insider states that as mass production became more popular, retailers had to market the new styles as a way for men to stand out in a sea of similar clothing.

This understanding of effective marketing continues today. Retailers are learning that men may want to wear pastel colors and softer fabrics. Fisher draws an instant connection between the prevalence of pink on the fashion week runways and the selection of pink on the racks of retail menswear departments. “You can go into any store and pretty much buy a pink suit,” said Fisher. It may be the same silhouette, he said, but now it’s in “more feminized fabrics and colors.”

Modern menswear marketing illustrates that boundaries are breaking within the industry. As men’s evolving style forces marketing to progress with it, menswear continues to evolve into a force to be reckoned with. Versace’s advice has made its mark on the style industry, and today men can finally utilize fashion to express themselves confidently and stylishly.

Mr. Brightsides

SMU guys get happy in comfotable, easy-going gear.

Models: Reuben Beckett, Class of 2021; Trace Webb, Class of 2022; Sam Shrier, Class of 2022 Photography: Chase Hall Stylists: Maddy McGuire, Terrell Kikis, Hailey Haase, Maggie Higgins, Emily Rourke, Isabel Meadows, Ryan Mikles

The Boys Are Back From Left:

Hoodie: Vince, $485 Pants: Stylist’s Own Sneakers: Golden Goose, $495 Tee: Civilinaire, $44 Vest: Uniqlo, $49.90 Pants: Stone Island, $343 Shoes: Stylist’s Own

Hoodie: Kith, $160 Pants: Stylist’s Own Shoes: Common Projects, $425

38 • SMU LOOK

Say Cheese From Left

Reuben wears: Vest: Uniqlo, $49.90 Sam wears: Tee: James Perse, $70 Hoodie: Kith, $160 Hat: Madhappy, $35 Watch: Vintage Bvlgari Trace wears: Tee: Civilinaire, $44 Shirt: Club Monaco, $98.50 Pants: Stone Island, $343 Sunglasses: Tom Ford, $375

Skater Boy

Vest: Uniqlo, $49.90 Sneakers: Golden Goose, $495 Sunglasses: Ray-Ban, $154

feels like it’s

By Mary-Wesley Maddox

The 2019 football season was monumental for SMU, as we saw the Mustangs finish with 10 wins for the first time in more than two decades. As the weeks of wins continued, many parallels were drawn between this season and the historic undefeated season of 1982. The 8-week undefeated streak had many alumni reminiscing, and it was a welcomed improvement from past seasons.

Fashion and style trends from 1982 also came back around. On game days in 2019, you could find highwaisted, light wash jeans and puff-sleeve tops and dresses, headbands and even bright, colorf ul makeup. Students were even using disposable cameras and film to get that vintage photography look.

But some things have changed since ‘82, like the addition of the 32,000-seat Gerald J. Ford Stadium in 2000. In 1982, students tailgated out of their cars before games at Texas Stadium in Irving. Today, they tailgate on Bishop Boulevard. “Boulevarding” was introduced by current President R. Gerald Turner at the first game of the 2000 season, against the University of Kansas. Students and alumni gathered together under tents lining the Boulevard, and it has remained a beloved tradition ever since.

The 1982 season was then-Head Coach Bobby Collins’s first, and it added momentum

Photo Courtesy of SMU Rotunda Courtesy of SMU Rotunda

to the previous two winning seasons. SMU football won the Southwest Conference Championship and the 1982 Cotton Bowl, held on New Year’s Day. The team continued to have successf u l seasons under Coach Collins. But the program was hit with the NCA A “death penalty” after being investigated for bribing recruits, and the 1987 and 1988 seasons were canceled. SMU is the only football program to have ever received this harsh punishment, and it has had trouble recovering.

I n 2 019 ho we v er, t he team performed ver y well in the A merican Athletic Con ference a nd m ade a bowl game for the f irst time since 2017. Dedicated students traveled to Boca Raton to see the team play Florida Atlantic over winter break. Despite the 52-28 loss, this game was still a milestone for the SMU Football program. Many Mustang fans hope that the 2019 season started a streak of more winning seasons not seen since 1982.

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