LOOKING OUT
TREASURE HUNT By Shaye Galen Illustration by Sarah Scambray
Now that second-hand styles have shed their stigma, shoppers rush to embrace the thrifting trend.
T
he newest trend in shopping isn’t new at all. In fact, it’s old — as in old clothes. Whether they’re referred to as second-hand, pre-loved or thrift-store treasures, customers can’t get enough of closet castoffs. For years, second-hand shopping bore a stigma that made shoppers who could afford alternatives stay away. “There is a stigma because the word ‘thrift’ makes it sound cheaper and less enticing for the shopper,” said Tenni King, a wardrobe stylist and personal shopper in Dallas. Tim Heis agrees. As the chief executive officer of Goodwill Industries of Dallas, Inc., a nonprofit that operates a network of thrifting destinations, he’s seen Goodwill’s shoppers evolve. “We still have a healthy balance of buyers who are looking for affordable options for everyday clothes,” but he is also seeing “steady and slightly increasing set of buyers that are more on the treasure hunt for key items for their wardrobe.” What’s driving this thrifting renaissance? Plenty, say experts and shoppers. Those who thrift appreciate that it’s a more ecologically responsible way to shop. It’s also gotten easier to find second-hand merchandise thanks to a growing number of resale e-commerce sites and the re-concepting of existing thrift stores. And when shoppers buy from charities like Goodwill, they can support social service missions with every purchase. Thrifting is the fashion equivalent of going green. The average American throws away about 82 pounds of clothes a year, according to Planet Aid, a nonprofit organization that recycles textiles. These tossed-out garments contribute to textile waste packing America’s landfills — nearly 17 million tons in 2017 alone, according to U.S. Environmental Protection Agency estimates. When clothes stay in closets, they don’t end up in dumps. Thrift stores like Goodwill and The Salvation Army also keep unsold clothes from polluting the earth, selling them to salvage markets for repurposing creations. “We don’t have any impact on how things are manufactured,” said
Heis, but reselling allows for a second and third life. Luckily, the resale shopping experience has become easier and more upscale than ever before. An explosion of reseller apps like Poshmark and Mercari, plus trendy ecommerce sites specializing in thrifting, inspire savvy shoppers to give thrifting a try. It’s working: A 2019 retail report by ThredUp, the largest online consignment and thrift store, showed that 64% of women bought or are now willing to buy secondhand, up from 45% in 2016. Brick-and-mortar thrift stores are also taking part in the change, ditching the stereotype of dusty, unorganized storefronts. “It’s not your kind of grandma’s thrift shop,” said Heis about Goodwill. Many of its resale stores have been remodeled and expertly merchandised, he said, to create a shopping experience that’s “fun and also stress-free.” It’s not just easier to thrift-shop, it’s also getting trendier thanks to Instagram. Fashion influencers and bloggers are using Instagram to buy, sell and show off their one-of-a-kind finds with hashtags like #liveatthethrift, #roundtwovintage and #thriftfind. “We’re in a culture where it is very much on-trend to post pictures of yourself enjoying experiences, and a fundamental part of those experiences is what people are wearing,” said Heis. “It makes it socially acceptable, it makes it interesting, and it really makes the treasure hunt come alive.” Many shoppers also appreciate that their dollars make a difference in other people’s lives. Consumers thrift because they want to help organizations and give back to the community, said Salomon Elias of The Salvation Army Adult Rehabilitation Center in Dallas. Proceeds from the Salvation Army’s thrift stores directly support the center’s outreach and programming for men with substance abuse issues. With every thrift store purchase, Elias said, “you save a life, you save a soul, you save a family.” So next time someone asks about the origins of that stylish outfit, say it loud and proud: “Sorry, not sorry, it’s thrifted.”
Spring/Summer 2020 • 33
