LOOK Radiance Spring
LOOK SMU
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MADDIE CRISPMAGAZINE
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR LEIGHTON COTTRELL
ASSISTANT EDITOR CRISTIANA MONTALVAN
ASSOCIATE EDITOR CAROLINE PIERCE
SENIOR EDITOR CHELSEA EMMICK
MAGAZINE WRITERS MEIGHAN ASHFORD, AVERY ZOLFAGHARI
FASHION
CREATIVE DIRECTOR IVY NIELSEN
ASSISTANT CREATIVE DIRECTOR BETTY JANE THOMAS
FASHION EDITORS EMMY KAY JENSEN, LAUREN HASTINGS
MODEL COORDINATOR ELLA MILLER
PRODUCTION COORDINATOR OLIVIA LANNING
FASHION ASSISTANTS ELECTRA FORD, EVA GUERREE, HOPE WHITCRAFT
MARKETING
MARKETING DIRECTORS CLARE COLEMAN, FRANKI PALMER
DIGITAL PROMOTIONS COORDINATOR CLEMENTINE
MARCOGLIESE
SALES TEAM ANNA BARBIERI,
KATHARYN MITCHELL, MARGO WASHBURNE, CAROLINE STILES, LUCY HALLINAN
EVENT DIRECTOR KRISTEN DILLARD
EVENT COORDINATORS AINSLEY BOOTH, JACKIE O’HARA, KATHRYN ORR, MADDIE WAGNER
CIRCULATION COORDINATOR BUCK TODD
THE SITE
DIGITAL DIRECTOR SHAE WALKER
ASSISTANT DIGITAL DIRECTOR TYLER MARTIN
WRITERS EMILIE NELSON, MALIA HOUSE, MONET MANESH, SOPHIA PARDO, CHARLOTTE POMPA, DAKOTA ROSE, MARI SATO, REES SINNOTT, ELIZABETH WHELESS
ART & DESIGN
ART DIRECTORS MADDIE MILLER, JUAN SILVA
ART TEAM ANGELICA KOUTSOUBIS, QUINCY NELSON, HOLLAND PONCY
PHOTOGRAPHY DIRECTOR ARDEN EILAND
PHOTOGRAPHY LIAISON ELLA MCDONALD
PHOTOGRAPHERS SAMANTHA HERNANDEZ, MORGAN HELLEBUSCH, CATHERINE OURSO, HELEN TRAN
SOCIAL MEDIA
SOCIAL MEDIA DIRECTOR CHARLOTTE KOLMAN
INSTAGRAM DIRECTOR ATHENA MAMATAS
INSTAGRAM ASSISTANTS OLIVIA ATHERTON
TIK TOK DIRECTOR EMMA GLASER
TIKTOK ASSISTANTS CAROLINE CORCORAN, LIA DOMENECH
CONTENT CREATORS MAYA BASRA, EMMA CLARKE, CATE CUMBIE, LILLY JAMES, SALLIE BELL MOORE, TESSA TRIVAX
ADVISORS
FACULTY ADVISOR JENNY B. DAVIS, JENNYDAVIS@SMU.EDU
ADVISING EDITORS ETHAN LASCITY, ANDREA ARTERBERY, JAYNE SUHLER
EDITORIAL SUPPORT CANDACE BARNHILL, LISA GOODSON
EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR MELISSA CHESSHER
Model: Gray Bertuccio
Dress: Simkhai, $495, Neiman Marcus NorthPark
Photography by Arden Eiland
For more images on this shoot, see page 34
Editor’s Letter O
nce upon a time, my world revolved around dance. It wasn’t the demure, poised ballet dancing that moved me, though — I was in it for the dazzling costumes, the hip hop and Top 40 tunes, the full-face makeup and the energy of the cheering crowds. Whether I was busting moves at a regional dance team competition or riling up a stadium of high school football fans, every step made me believe I could take on the world. The bright lights of the stadium or auditorium allowed the audience to see me, but I didn’t need them – dance sparked a light within me, and my inner radiance provided all the illumination I needed.
Fast forward 15 years, and my dancing days are but a distant memory, those rhinestone costumes stashed away in some forgotten closet in my childhood home. But that doesn’t mean I don’t feel radiant anymore. Now, scholastic achievement sparks my inner light. When I ace a French test or earn an A in a journalism class for a strongly reported story, I can feel the warmth of the light radiating from within.
As I began my role as editorial director of SMU Look magazine, I wanted my first issue to revolve around the feeling of radiance. You’ll find that this issue is full of stories about people who have found ways to spark their inner light by pursuing what they love. From making fiber arts trendy again (check out page 26) to football players showcasing their personal style (32), these stories aim to inspire you to seek your own inner radiance and release your light to the world.
Photography by Ella McDonaldBRUSH
BEAUTY WITH
SMU
alum Meredith Welborn turned her love of hairstyling
into a career as a social media influencer.By Meighan Ashford
From technique explanations and time-saving hacks to product recommendations, Meredith Welborn turned her hairstyling opinions and experiences into a career. Her social media account, @astoldbymeredith, has more than 150,000 followers, her content regularly attracts thousands of likes and views, and she’s forged partnerships with leading hair care brands such as Ouai. And it all started as a hobby when she was a student at Southern Methodist University.
Welborn, who graduated in 2021, always had a thing for hair. In high school, she honed her skills by giving her friends elaborate updos. When she came to Southern Methodist University, she did the same for her sorority sisters. She was always the first to try new shampoos and serums, and she loved sharing her opinions. She enjoyed it so much that she decided to start to blog and post on social media as a hobby.
“It started as a fun side project for me to do outside of school, but it ended up becoming something more,” Welborn says. It wasn’t easy, she admits. On top of a full academic schedule — she triple-majored in journalism, creative advertising, and French — she was also in a sorority and served in multiple editorial positions at SMU Look Media, including the top spot, editor-in-chief in 2020.
Welborn moved to Los Angeles after graduation and began working as a senior content creator at the media agency VaynerMedia, where she became well-versed in TikTok tactics. Despite her busy schedule, she continued to create her own content in her free time.
The decision to focus on hair was easy, she says. Not only did she love it, but her followers did, too. “My first viral video was a hair tutorial, and ever since then, it’s been the cornerstone of all my content,” she says.
Eventually, her engaging content and exploding follower count caught the attention of a social media management company and she signed on in July 2023. That gave her the support she needed to leave her job and and focus on @astoldbymeredith full-time, she says.
“I knew that if I could just devote all of my time to doing what I knew needed to be done, I could produce better content,” she says.
Welborn always saw herself in the role of independent content creator and that assuredness informs her confidence in work. “I always thought it was so girl-boss to see women on YouTube doing what they love and being able to call it work,” she says. “I knew I always wanted it, I just didn’t know how much.”
CHIC CHEEK
PA chromatic journey into the history of blush.
By Maddie CrispPhotography by Arden Eiland
ink tones, peach tones, plum tones. Regardless of what shade you stash in your glam bag, blush is a universal enhancer that’s become a must-have product in every makeup enthusiast’s arsenal. In the kaleidoscopic world of cosmetics, blush exists to add a radiant flush to the cheeks and a touch of vivacity to your visage. Depending on personal preference, these pigment-packed powders and creams have a rich history stretching back to ancient civilizations.
The Elizabethan era saw the introduction of vermilion, a vivid red pigment derived from mercury sulfide, which adorned the cheeks of Queen Elizabeth I herself, according to Royal Museums Greenwich, a Greenwich-based history museum. Blush continued to evolve, transforming from pastes and liquids in the Victorian era to the pressed powders and creams of modern-day makeup.
Just as each masterpiece hanging in the Louvre begins with a skillfully selected color palette, so too can the perfect blush awaken your inner Claude Monet. Itzayana Rios, a Dallas-based professional makeup artist and esthetician, explains the process as an art that demands attention to detail and experimentation. Her biggest tip: Before you even think about blush—moisturize, moisturize, moisturize! “Prepping the skin before application will keep the skin glowy and smooth,” Rios says. Who wants to test out blush shades on crusty skin? Your cheeks won’t dig that. Rios suggests the Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Base ($69, bobbibrowncosmetics.com). If trial and error isn’t your forte, here’s a fortified cheat sheet revealing Rios’ approach to picking the perfect shade for each client.
THE TONE TOME:
FAIR-LIGHT SKIN:
For those with fair complexions resembling porcelain, try delicate pink and coral tones. Opt for shades like a soft rose or baby pink to create a subtle flush that enhances your doll-like appearance. Keywords like “ballet” or “petal” capture the vibe of these shades and clue you into finding which shade to toss into your basket during your next trip down the cosmetics aisle.
MEDIUM SKIN:
If your skin falls into the medium range, embrace the warmth of apricot and terracotta hues. These shades add a sun-kissed glow that is oh-so-luscious. With this skin tone, shades named with keywords like “warm” or “peach” will be your winners.
DEEP SKIN:
Explore enchanting shades on the other side of the color wheel for deeper skin tones, such as berry or burgundy. Find your perfect shade by searching for products with keywords like “plum” or “violet.” These deeper tones will bring out the richness of your complexion.
YOUR SHOPPING LIST:
GLOW BALM
bymakeup mario rare beauty kylie
Photography by Arden EilandGet your glow on effortlessly with the Kylie Cosmetics Glow Balm, a luxurious, buildable formula that enhances your natural flush. This balm delivers a luminous sheen for a dewy, fresh-faced look without worrying about cakiness or streaks. Apply using your fingers for a delicate, “just pinched” look or a makeup sponge for a filtered effect. Elevate your makeup routine with this must-have product for a radiant complexion that lasts all day. $20, kyliecosmetics.com
SOFT PINCH LIQUID BLUSH
Pack a punch with the Rare Beauty Soft Pinch Liquid Blush. Each drop delivers an extreme pigment for a flush of color that blends into your skin smoothly, leaving an airbrushed finish. Its lightweight formula melts with ease, providing buildable coverage for a customized look. Apply this blush with a single dollop onto the cheek using the product’s applicatorstyle brush. A fluffy blush is best for blending to achieve a blurred look. $23, rarebeauty.com
SOFT POP PLUMPING BLUSH
The Soft Pop Plumping Blush Veil from Makeup by Mario enhances your makeup with a radiant, plumped-up flush. Its lightweight, easy-to-use formula seamlessly blends into the skin, providing a soft-focus effect for a youthful glow. Experience a long-lasting, buildable color payoff that makes any makeup look appear lit from within. For best results, apply this product with a compacted blending brush. $30, makeupbymario.com
Fashion in Focus
SEE THROUGH STYLE
Let’s be transparent, sheer gets a bad rap. Thanks to the “naked dress” fashion phenomena dating back to Marilyn Monroe’s seemingly see-through 1962 presidential birthday serenade gown, this trend has been linked with sexuality and scandal. Yet the trend remains irresistible to designers and influencers, and there’s definitely a way to wear it that merges sexy and stylish.
For SMU Look digital writer Mari Sato, a sophomore majoring in fashion media and creative computing, gauzy garments represent individuality and confidence. There’s no reason students should shy away from sheer – if it’s styled right, she says. “Using sheer pieces as layering is a much more versatile and appropriate choice.”
Take a sheer shirt for example. For a fashion-forward daytime look, add a tank top underneath, Sato suggests. For a bold night-out look, she simply switches out the tank and wears a lacy-yet-full-coverage bra underneath. Want to cover up while still being seen? The choice is clear: sheer. Caroline Pierce
Strengthen your style with these trends.
WHERE TO SHOP
Loveshackfancy
Highland Park Village
29 Highland Park Village
Dallas
loveshackfancy.com
THE SOFT SIDE
Playful, romantic, simple and sweet: a pastel palette is the perfect approach to spring. Just ask Prada, Loewe and Courrèges, all fashion brands that have brought softer shades to their runways for the spring-summer season. However, any color with “baby” in the name may seem a bit too, well, elementary. But there is a way to choose these light, bright hues while also looking sophisticated.
Violet Enes, a junior majoring in public policy, appreciates pastels because they feel “a little bit more fun and easygoing.” For anyone new to pastels, she suggests leaning into location. “I go to Hawaii with my family every year, and I love to wear pastels there,” she says. “I feel like it fits the beachy vibe.”
One item that can go anywhere is a soft-hued dress, Enes says. The sophisticated fabric of a silk slip dress enhances a feminine silhouette, making it a serene option to style with dainty jewelry. For a night out, she recommends pastels as the perfect pop of color to pair with basics. Now the only decision left is to pick which shade is best. Chelsea Emmick
MARKET
Highland Park Village
26 Highland Park Village
Dallas
markethighlandpark.com
Neiman Marcus
NorthPark Center 8687 N. Central Expy.
Dallas
neimanmarcus.com
GOLD RUSH
Photography by Arden Eiland, Morgan Hellebusch and Samantha Hernandez
Production and Styling by Ivy Nielsen
Additional Styling by Betty Jane Thomas
Credits by Olivia Lanning
With France preparing to host the Summer Olympics, is it any wonder that fashion designers are rushing back to gold? In fact, metallics in general are shining for spring-summer, lighting up the runways at Schiaparelli, Miu Miu and Ralph Lauren.
Kelda Kapoor, a junior majoring in economics and art history, is ready for the season’s return to gilded glamor by bringing on the silver and gold, which she wears separately and together. “I wear metallic pieces as much as I can, either when I’m going out or to add a pop to a day outfit,” she says. For Kapoor, metallics add pizzazz whether she’s stepping out in Dallas or in Barcelona, where she’s spending her semester as a study-abroad student.
Kapoor suggests pairing a beaded gold top with a long white skirt for day or evening. And for anyone not ready to commit to full-body metal, the metallics trend is perfect for accessories. A gold purse will make an all-black outfit shine, Kapoor says, and even a metallic chunky belt and a mix of metallic bangles will make anyone feel “sparkly and energetic.” However it’s styled, metallics provide that special sparkle to make everyone shine.
Avery Zolfaghari
Model: Kayla Hanrahan
Dress: Simon Miller, $495, Neiman Marcus NorthPark Center
Earrings: Loveshackfancy, $138, Loveshackfancy Highland Park Village
PURSE pursuit
SMU students share their opinions about the best bags for books and looks.
By Cristiana Montalvan Illustrations by Angelica KoutsoubisBags are a big deal at SMU. But not just any bag will do. To find out what’s considered hot – and, of course, what’s not –we surveyed over 100 fashion-forward students, asking them to share their opinions about which sizes, prices and brands carry the most social currency on campus.
BUDGET-FRIENDLY CHOICE: STAUD
Looking for the perfect bag that emulates style and luxury without breaking the bank? More than one third of responding students said Staud has this in the bag. This LA-based lifestyle brand, founded in 2015 by Sarah Staundinger and George Augusto, blends unconventional design with affordability – many styles are priced under $300 (and more than half that on resale sites like Poshmark) In fact, savvy shoppers can find the Moon Bag, one of the brand’s most sought-after styles, for under $200, a bargain considering it’s been carried by Kendall Jenner. Other budget-friendly brands making the list include Coach, Marc Jacobs, Zara and JW Pei.
NIGHT-OUT NECESSITY: SAINT LAURENT LE 5 À 7
When it comes to chic soirees, students love Saint Laurent. Specifically the Le 5 à 7 style. Over a fourth of all respondents feel this petite pochette is both practical and fashionable. Launched in Spring 2021, its inspiration comes from the classic French film, “Cléo from 5 to 7.” But this bag wasn’t a clear winner: In close second was the Prada Nylon with 15% of the vote. The Fendi Baguette and Dior Saddle Bag were also popular picks.
MOST-CARRIED
ON CAMPUS: GOYARD SAINT
LOUIS GM BAG
On SMU’s campus, there’s a clear preference for luxury as the Goyard Saint Louis GM Bag is the most-seen sack on campus. A staggering 86% of respondents commented that this appeared to be the bag to have, and what a bag it is: the average price is $2,300. (Although several students admitted that they suspected many of the Goyard they spied were actually counterfeits.). Further results from the survey spilled more style secrets: Louis Vuitton Neverfull (15%) and Dior Book Tote (10%) are considered the second and third most-carried bags on campus.
THE ULTIMATE LUXE: CHANEL FLAP BAG
Chanel it is! A significant percentage of all survey respondents covet the iconic Flap Bag from the ultimate luxury brand, Chanel. Do fashion-forward students really love the bag, or is the appeal in the splurge? Because the Flap Bag is certainly a splurge: the average price is currently $10,200, a little over 10 times what it cost when it debuted in 1983. Fun fact: SMU students also covet Prada, Louis Vuitton and Dior, in that order.
C Charmed
Students say this tiny jewelry trend reflects personal style in a big way.By Leighton Cottrell Photography by Arden Eiland
harm jewelry is a trend that’s casting a spell across the SMU campus. Once viewed as a sentimental keepsake to commemorate trips, holidays and milestones such as graduation, students are now taking a new approach to charms: using them to show off individual style.
That’s why Quincy Nelson loves her charms. “With so many micro trends recently, making something personalized to you is curating an individual style that won't be out in a couple of months,” says Nelson, a freshman studying fashion media and journalism.
Venturing into Lower Greenville, Nelson stumbled upon LoLo Jewels, a pop-up style treasure trove that specializes in whimsical charm jewelry pieces. Nelson purchased a gold cable chain necklace and chose nine golden charms, each one a symbol of her passions and personality.
Among the collection: a lightning bolt, heart, cross, a pair of lips and a skull, which symbolizes her sorority.
Because of the new popularity of charm jewelry, LoLo Jewels owner Stephanie Curtis says she’s been able to bring her “charm bar” popup to locations across the city. Many of the charm designs she carries hark back to styles originating in the 1980s, proof that “all trends will circle back,” she says.
i’m sure Charmed ,
Caroline Hall, a medieval studies major, created her charm necklace at LoLo Jewels popup in Deep Ellum. “I like how you get to pick exactly what you want,” she says. Hall began with a necklace boasting a blinged-out chunky clasp at the center and anchored it with a bold gold heart — a match made in accessory heaven. For the remaining five charms, Hall played with size and shape to create a playful grouping of sparkling symbols that includes cherries, a star-and-arrow charm and a diamond cross, a nod to her faith.
The backbone of every charm collection is the chain. Whether it’s sleek silver or gleaming gold, it’s a choice that’s purely personal, as are the decisions about chain style and length. The customization continues from there, as the types of charms out there are as endless as the options of how to group them together. (Don’t worry — there are a plethora of tutorials on YouTube and TikTok to help navigate the possibilities.)
One element that Nelson suggests adding to the charm bracelet creation process is friends. Be sure to bring them with you to help you decide, she says. “It's just so fun, and makes you feel like a kid again making bracelets with friends.”
Clothes for Hire
SMU’s career development center helps students dress for success.
By Lexi HodsonRenting clothing helps young people indulge their shopping habits with minimal harm to the environment and to their wallets. Best of all, these services can provide an easy fix for the apparel that many college students don’t want to buy, but they’ll all eventually need: business clothes.
Last September, SMU began a pilot program with online clothing rental company Hyde Closet to offer two groups of student leaders free access to business clothing. The company is attempting to expand its customer base by working with universities, and reached out to SMU to collaborate.
Crystal Clayton, Ph.D., executive director of the Hegi Family Career Development Center, was in search of a way to provide students in need with consistent access to professional clothing when Hyde Closet reached out. The company’s business model was intriguing, Clayton said, since SMU doesn’t have room to house a permanent career closet. A career closet is a service that provides students with professional attire to wear to interviews, internships and as early career professionals.
Instead, the Hegi Center has been organizing a Career Closet Pop-Up Shop once a year where faculty, alumni and community members donate new and lightly used professional wear. Being able to provide students with year-round access would be ideal, Clayton says.
Clayton is particularly passionate about providing professional clothing because of the benefit it provides in the business world. “I know that sometimes clothing is looked at as more of a superficial thing, but I really think that when students look the part, they feel more confident,” Clayton says. “They can go in and they can nail that interview, they can talk to the people they want to talk to in any room, and they can feel really good about it.”
The Hegi Center has had a significantly better experience since switching to Nuuly. After some initial issues with Nuuly were worked out, Clayton reported that 33% of students with access are actively using the service and have generally provided positive feedback. She suspects, however, that some of those who tried the partnership with The Stylist LA were deterred from trying it again with Nuuly.
“If someone tried it once at the beginning of the school year and had a problem, it should be better now,” Clayton says. “But I know sometimes when people have a bad experience, they don’t want to come back to it.”
Morris has used the service throughout the past year and is very happy with the current partnership with Nuuly.
“It has been really great because it is trendy clothes that work both for the business world and for the interviews and professionalism that Hunt places so much emphasis on,” Morris says.
Clayton is happy with the outcome of the partnership so far and believes that it is fulfilling its goal.
“If students don’t feel like they have the resources, this is a way that we can even the
“IF STUDENTS DON’T FEEL LIKE THEY HAVE THE RESOURCES, THIS IS A WAY THAT WE CAN EVEN THE PLAYING FIELD SO THAT ALL STUDENTS CAN GET THOSE PROFESSIONAL OPPORTUNITIES,” CRYSTAL CLAYTON SAYS.
With Hyde Closet’s outreach in mind, Hegi decided to test out the subscription services for two student leadership groups on campus: Hegi Career Leaders and Hunt Scholars. Under the plan, these students could receive one box of clothing per month through the 2023-2024 school year, to be returned at the end of each month in exchange for a new shipment.
But there was a hiccup: Hyde Closet only offers clothing for male-presenting people, leaving those in search of female-presenting clothing in a lurch. Hegi had to find another partner to fill this need. First, it worked with female-centered clothing rental service The Stylist LA, but students weren’t impressed.
Sophomore journalism major and Hunt Scholar Melanie Jackson ordered a clothing box from The Stylist LA in the early days of the partnership, but it didn’t meet her needs. “When I was looking through everything, it was all casual clothes,” Jackson says.
First year finance major and Hunt Scholar Tatum Morris also had a negative experience.“The material wasn’t great and the stuff that was coming wasn’t as described,” Morris says.
Hegi terminated the deal with The Stylist LA after about a month and sought out another partner. This time, it worked with Nuuly, a similar service, but one with more variety in its apparel and attire options, including business. Since the point of the program is to help with professional clothing, it was essential the partner could provide that.
playing field so that all students can get those professional opportunities,” Clayton says.
At the moment, the future of the collaboration between Hegi and the clothing services is up in the air. Clayton and her team plan to assess the program and the potential of expanding it to more students, at the end of this academic year.
“We will assess the pros and cons of the product, discuss next steps for offerings in the Hegi Center, and reach out to our partner career centers on campus to gauge interest and explore the opportunity of rolling this out in other areas and academic colleges on campus,” Clayton says.
Lexi Hodson is a senior studying fashion media and marketing.
FROM Rebel MAINSTREAM MARKS
Abigail Fox got her first tattoo when she was 17, to honor a friend who passed away. For Fox, the permanent memorial served as a mark of remembrance and reflection. Fast forward over five years, and Fox is now a college graduate in the corporate world, working as an account executive at a global security firm in Austin. She does get questions about this tattoo and others at work events, “especially from the older generations,” but she says her body art has not hindered her success.
Fox’s experience is hardly an exception. Tattoos and piercings have shifted from symbols of rebellion that can sink a mainstream career to simply a way for people to showcase their beliefs and personality, regardless of who they are or where they work. Social media has driven some of the acceptance, but so have expectations in the workplace, where employers have become more accepting of body art.
to bustling urban areas, where they offer bespoke services to an affluent clientele. “When I was growing up, tattoos were for bikers and that kind of thing, and it was kind of scary or intimidating to go into a shop, but I think that is no longer the case,” says Elizabeth O’Neill, a tattoo artist with Heart in Hand Gallery. With three locations in North Texas, Heart in Hand’s Dallas location is a bright, colorful spot that is especially popular with college-age people because of its proximity to Southern Methodist University.
Both de la Garza and O’Neill agree that social media has played a significant role in promoting self-expression through body art and the businesses catering to those needs.
“Social media has been awesome because we can really give people inspiration through Pinterest and Instagram through stylized shoots,” says de la Garza. “People like to see the journey.”
“MY FAVORITE THING ABOUT TATTOOS IS THAT IT CAN BE A YEARBOOK OF YOUR LIFE” SAYS ELIZABETH O’NEILL.
An August 2023 Pew Research Study found that 32% of Americans have tattoos, 22% have more than one, and 14% of women students have a nontraditional piercing, meaning it’s located somewhere on their body other than through the earlobe. The study also found that, of those with tattoos, 24% hold a bachelor’s degree and 21% have earned a postgraduate degree. Perhaps most notably, 41% of people under 30 have at least one tattoo, as do 46% of people between the ages of 30 and 49. Statistics are similar when it comes to nontraditional piercings.
GRUNGE TO GLAM
As the popularity of piercings and tattoos have grown, so has the market to offer more upscale services. Ylang 23, a Dallas-based company with 35 years of experience in curated jewelry design, recognized the nontraditional piercing trend and responded by launching a new company to meet the demand. That company, called Wildlike, specializes in piercing services and luxury jewelry – think gold, silver and precious gemstones, says Loryn de la Garza, its senior manager of social media. The new trend, she explains, is the “curated ear,” a deliberate arrangement of piercings and earrings that tell a personal story. This bespoke approach often combines different types of piercings in different areas of the ear, such as the tragus (the small cartilage flap at the front of the ear) and the daith (the cartilage situated just above and inside the ear canal).
“The whole thing about self-expression is that people like to do different things in each ear,” says de la Garza. “Most people sleep on one side, so they will heavily pierce the opposite ear. We call this the ‘party ear.’ ”
O’Neill believes social media has promoted tattoos but emphasizes that the best advertisement is providing a great customer experience, which encourages repeat visits and word-of-mouth promotion. “My favorite thing about tattoos is that it can be a yearbook of your life, O’Neill says. “Every tattoo is an experience, and every tattoo has a story.”
SMU student Nita Kelly says each of her four tattoos hold a special meaning. “One on my pinky reminds me that I was born for a reason, and that purpose goes beyond what I think/know in the moment, and that I should aim in everything I do to help others plus be the best version of myself,” says Kelly. “The second one on my other pinky is the word equilibrium in cursive. It commemorates my love of science and reminds me of the importance of balance in life, the system and everything that I do.”
EMPLOYER ACCEPTANCE
The mainstreaming of tattoos and piercing is also evident in the workplace. A recent Pew Survey found that 80% of Americans thought that society has become more accepting of people with tattoos, and that belief is shared by many corporate recruiters. For example, pharmaceutical giant Pfizer, which employs 83,000 employees worldwide, does not dictate a body art standard in its corporate dress code, says Anne Kennedy Dotson, Pfizer’s global lead of recruitment marketing and branding. “I have been on numerous calls with potential employees or current staff and their tattoos and piercings make no difference to me,” she says.
Not all workplaces are so accepting, however. Many airlines and also the U.S. military prohibit tattoos when they’re visible on the face and neck, in addition to limitations on earrings sizes larger than a quarter.
Fox’s tattoos aren’t an issue for her employer, but she says that inking only areas that are easy to conceal just makes life easier. When tattoos are on her ankles, for example, “I can show them as much or as little as I want.”
Zoe Zinser is a senior studying fashion media and world language.
Signs
TO
As body art becomes more common, major employers are becoming less concerned about hiring people with piercings and tattoos.
By Zoe ZinserRunning Heels in
For women in politics, personal style projects power but also invites criticism.
By Bella Edmondsonn Jan 7, 2007, Hillary Clinton announced she was running for president.
Six months later, the world wanted to discuss her cleavage — not her policies on climate change, after her appearance on the Senate floor wearing a slightly lower-cut blouse than usual.
Robin Givhan, a Pulitzer Prize winner and fashion critic at large at The Washington Post, wrote a 700-word article about the moment.
“It was startling to see that small acknowledgment of sexuality and femininity peeking out of the conservative — aesthetically speaking — environment of Congress,” Givhan wrote.
Fast forward 14 years, Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez walked the “American Independence” themed Met Gala red carpet wearing a dress with the phrase “Tax the rich,” a moment that again had the media buzzing.
“I couldn’t fight the power and dominance with power and dominance; I had to choose another way,” says Castle. “So what people were telling me was I was coming off cold and uninviting. The votes you aren’t getting are the ones who aren’t seeing you for the real you.” In order to change course, Castle’s campaign team changed her color to blue.
“I started wearing a blue dress because blue was more welcoming,” says Castle, who won her campaign.
Castle’s experience is not all that rare for women running for office, says Minita Sanghvi, an associate professor of marketing at Skidmore College who is currently running for New York state senate in district 44 which represents New York’s Capital Region.
MicheLleObama
“While I’m always up for a little late spring sunshine I’m afraid she may have taken it a bit too far.” –Glamour Magazine
And, most recently, former United States ambassador to the United Nations and Republican presidential candidate, Nikki Haley, wore a blue dress that was dubbed “fancy but not fancy enough,” by her opponent, former president Donald Trump.
Whether you agree with AOC’s fashion statement or pay any attention to Clinton’s low-cut shirt or Haley’s dress, it is undeniable that clothing shapes public perception — especially for those in the political arena.
That’s a fact that Sydney Castle learned well while campaigning for student body president in 2022. For Castle it was not a debate about a skirt or pants, but of color.
“I wanted my entire campaign to be black and white, but I wanted the one color to be red,” Castle says. “I wanted it to be power, I wanted it to be, ‘she means business, she is dominating, she is not messing around, she’s not a little girl, she is a woman, and she is powerful.’”
Yet, when the runoffs occurred, and she was running against a male candidate, Castle was confronted with helpful criticism from her peers that changed the trajectory of her campaign.
“We have gendered colors and male colors have more authority, and the female colors have less authority,” Sanghvi says, “so the yellows and the pinks of the world have less authority. When we look at female colors, red becomes the only one that has any authority; it is considered a power color.”
As a candidate who holds her personal identity close, Sanghvi always thinks about how she dresses and the message conveyed. If elected, Sanghvi will be the first openly gay and first woman of color to represent the district.
“Am I going to wear traditional American clothes? On what occasions can I traditionally wear Indian clothes that show more of my Indianness, and on what occasion do I want to show I am 100% American?” says Sanghvi.
Politicians face challenges in navigating identity through clothing and what they choose to wear can either strengthen or distance them from voting blocs. The fashion choices politicians face will become increasingly important in 2024, as the U.S. approaches a presidential election.
Of her personal experience, Sanghvi explains, “I don’t want to alienate Indians who see me as a role model because I believe I am the first queer Indian to run for state legislature.”
The gender dynamics are important, but professional clothing can help female candidates make a statement, according to Ally Sherwood, a political fundraising manager at Oracle.
“Women wearing pants and skirt suits is our way of showing power and equality,” says Sherwood. “And, as women, we can convey more of a message [with clothes]; there is more running room with our clothes.”
With so many choices in women’s clothes, it is a challenge to determine what is suitable for the occasion, and women can become easy targets for criticism.
As Castle noted, similar garments send different messages when worn by people of different gender.
“When Austin Hickle (a past SMU president) wore a suit and tie in our chamber meetings, nobody would second guess it,” says Castle. “‘Ok, yeah, he’s wearing a suit and tie; he has something,’ but if I wore something equivalent to a suit and tie, it would be a bigger deal.”
Castle often asked herself, “How do I match this male I am going with or the meeting I am going to? How do I match a suit and tie.”
Sanghvi explains that women are judged by “the lowest common denominator” that voters can relate to and feel comfortable criticizing.
“Fashion, dress, style, appearance, all these pieces fall under the lowest common denominator,” says Sanghvi. And, for voters to avoid feeling misogynistic in their criticism or dislike of a particular candidate, they “will use these lowest common denominators that everyone can access.” For example, “everyone can have an opinion on style,” Sanghvi says.
Bella Edmondson is a junior studying fashion media and journalism.
Threading
Model: Morgan Hellebusch She is holding a hand painted needlepoint canvasThe click-clack of wooden knitting needles rings throughout the apartment. Lauren Bernard, a senior at Southern Methodist University in Dallas, is nestled into a plush gray couch in her living room, intently focused on creating a scarf using the skills she learned as a child from her grandmother, a knitting extraordinaire who loved making mittens, scarves and sweaters.
But last year, more than a decade after abandoning that scarf, she picked up her knitting needles again and began creating a new scarf, this time with every intention of completing it. She also contemplated what brought her back to the centuries old craft of knitting. “It’s made for anyone, practically,” Bernard says. “It’s honestly really stimulating, and it keeps my mind actively going.”
Among her friends, Bernard says she is considered a bit of a knitting evangelist, sharing her passion for the craft and its ability to extend beyond just a granny’s source of joy. It is, Bernard says, an art that unites people and fosters purpose, mindfulness, and vision.
Many of Bernard’s peers feel similarly. In fact, Millennial and Gen Zers are redefining arts and crafts for their generations, and revenues reflect the growing interest and appreciation for fiber art’s community-building qualities and its shift toward sophistication. Although traditionally considered a pastime for older folks, fiber art crafts like knitting, weaving, crochet, embroidery and needlepoint saw a surge in popularity with these younger demographics following COVID-19. The needlework and sewing industry generated $358.8 million in revenue in 2020, and researchers estimated consumers would spend $425.7 million by the end of 2023, according to Statista, a global data and research company. And those new crafters continue to push fiber-arts boundaries and create works curated for the modern, driven woman (while also helping to bridge generational gaps).
protest against former President Trump’s inauguration.
The renaissance of fiber arts is informed by millennia of history. Some of the oldest forms of fiber arts, dating back to 1100 BC, are tapestries. These were prized for their versatility, serving simultaneously as insulation, decoration and also a representation of wealth when they incorporated expensive textiles made of wool, silk, gold and silver, says Amie Adelman, a member of the National Basketry Organization’s Board of Directors and a former professor of fiber arts at the University of North Texas. While tapestry-weaving has long been considered a fine art, other fiber art like knitting and crochet lagged behind but are finally receiving their well-deserved art-world respect, Adelman says, thanks to prestigious museum exhibits, such as a recent show, “Subversive, Skilled, Sublime: Fiber Art by Women,” at the Smithsonian American Art Museum in Washington, D.C.
This renewed prominence comes thanks to an early-2000s push from thirdwave feminists who reclaimed knitting and championed the intersection of crafting and activism they called “craftivism,” says Monica Miller, an assistant professor at Barnard College in New York City. Books such as “Stitch ‘n Bitch: The Knitters’ Handbook” helped popularize these crafts and reinforce the communal qualities they offer. Some even used knitting as tools of protest in what has become known as yarn bombing. Then, a global pandemic delivered a great deal of at-home free time, and that coupled with social media, helped kickstart the return of fiber arts for younger generations as crafty folk, according to Elizabeth Myong, a writer at The Dallas Morning News. People began to lean into crafts to express their opinions, improve their mental health, and flex their appreciation for sustainability.
In fact, Instagram, Pinterest, and TikTok have become virtual galleries, where fiber artists share their creations with diverse, global audiences. Social media platforms serve as powerful tools for self-promotion and community building and allow artists to find their voices while dismantling the stereotypes of various crafts post-by-post as more-than-lady arts. For example, the hashtag #FiberArt garners 3.5 million posts on Instagram, features diverse styles and techniques and connects artists and enthusiasts from different corners of the
In London, Chelsea Theilmann, the owner and founder of Chelsea Theilmann Art, enjoys challenging the status quo. Theilmann uses careful craftsmanship to create medium-scale tufted installations that blur the lines between art and activism. One of her latest projects, a collection of rugs featuring orchids, explores themes of identity and human expression.
“I have [combined art and activism] a lot in previous work — I’ve always felt a connection to flowers and how they tell stories,” Thielmann says in an email. “Different flowers represent or mean something different to each person.” By tufting together threads of various colors and textures into different types of flowers, Theilmann metaphorically voices her taste for activism. “I try to be vocal and open to connect with my followers,” Theilmann says. Using her Instagram platform of roughly 40,0000 followers to share her voice, she uses her art to speak for itself and thread together a narrative of unity as a result. Silent protests in this capacity build a sense of community that only continues to expand.
In the quiet corners of retirement homes, a similar form of community exists, only for a different cause. Senior citizens, often the poster children of fiber arts, find a new sense of purpose through various crafts — impacting their overall mental health and well-being, said Katie Pankonin, LMSW, a Phoenix-based mental health therapist. Knitting and crocheting circles have become spaces for socializing and avoiding the isolation that can come with the process of aging. Fiber arts offer an opportunity to keep the mind fresh and focused, but they also provide a chance for members of various generations to learn from each other, according to Pankonin.
“So many residents are skilled in so many different types of needlework,” says Anne Pearson, a resident at The Orchards at Arlington Highlands, an adult living community in Arlington, Texas. “I’ve seen needlepoint, knitting, crocheting — I often see other residents chatting and stitching over their morning coffee, and it’s special when family visits and I see a grandmother teaching her children or grandchildren.” The mindful nature of needlework inspires an intentional mindset that serves to bridge generational gaps, suggesting that fiber arts play an important role in providing a sense of community and purpose in society that goes beyond the “craft” label.
The resurgence of fiber arts also inspires a focus on sustainability and ecoconscious living. The shift toward sustainability in fashion sparked a change in the appreciation for handmade items made by fiber artists, according to Sass Brown and Federica Vacca, two ethical fashion educators from The Manchester Metropolitan University and Politecnico di Milano, respectively. And, because of the rapidly growing regard for goods made by hand, the handcraft market in North America will exceed $400 billion in 2024, according to a report in Business Wire, an American business news organization.
In an era marked by heightened awareness of the environmental impact of mass consumption, individuals gravitate toward the traditional practices of fiber artists, finding solace in their creations’ deep-rooted connection to sustainability, says Crespatrick de Los Reyes, the owner and founder of Crescente Patrizio, a sustainable Dallas-based denim brand. Fashion designers’ commitment to durability encourages consumers to embrace quality over quantity, often leading to a community of thrifting, upcycling,
As people become more aware of the environmental consequences of fast fashion, de Los Reyes says, more are becoming interested in the intricate craftsmanship and artistry involved in creating garments. Through the revival of practices such as knitting, sewing, and weaving, enthusiasts are rekindling an appreciation for natural, renewable materials, such as deadstock fabrics, fostering a community of individuals who work together to repair the planet every day. “Sustainability has gone hand-in-hand with this DIY Zeitgeist that’s been popular for a while now,” de Los Reyes said. “People are realizing ‘Oh, I can achieve these things’ and it’s causing so much opportunity for collaboration and bringing people together.”
“I LOVE THE CREATIVITY THAT COMES WITH THE TERRITORY,” LAUREN BERNARD SAYS. “I’VE SEEN A TON OF COMMUNITIES FOR KNITTING AND OTHER HOBBIES ON TIKTOK. SO MAYBE I’LL JOIN ONE OF THOSE NEXT.”
The future of fiber arts appears promising, with artists continuing to push boundaries and explore new mediums. Whether used as a form of protest, seen in the common rooms of a senior living facility, or worn on the runway - the community, sense of purpose, and focus on sustainability that fiber art fosters insists that the artform extends beyond the stereotype of simple crafts for older people. As the transformation of fiber arts from a marginalized craft to a celebrated art form unfolds, one thing becomes clear: the threads that connect society to the past are the same threads that weave the future. Fiber arts continue to evolve into a dynamic form of artistic expression that tugs at antiquated stereotypes and urges society to push further and engage in a new wave of conscious living.
Meanwhile, Bernard finally completed her scarf and swiftly began casting for her next knitting project, scanning ideas she’d collected on her Pinterest board dedicated to knitting.
“I love the creativity that comes with the territory,” Bernard says. “I’ve seen a ton of communities for knitting and other hobbies on TikTok. So maybe I’ll join one of those next.”
Maddie Crisp is a senior studying fashion media and journalism with a minor in advertising.
Upscaling
RESALE
Savvy secondhand shopping starts with semantics.
By Kristen DillardWhen Logan Stetz moved to Dallas, she made shopping secondhand a priority. The Southern Methodist University senior loves finding wardrobe staples like smart blazers, premium denim and chic coats.
“Secondhand shopping makes me feel like I am making a positive impact on the environment,” says Stetz. “I’ve seen countless articles and TikToks on the amount of waste created by fast fashion, and shopping secondhand makes me feel good about not contributing to that waste”
Stetz isn’t alone – statistics from the National Retail Federation statistics link Gen Z’s concern for the environment to the rise in fashion resale. “More and more, particularly college students realize that absolutely every single purchase has hidden human health, environmental, and social impact,” says Scot Case, vice president of corporate responsibility and sustainability at the National Retail Federation.
“And you can reduce adverse impacts when you are buying used, so buying a used product means you are avoiding the need to generate any additional pollution or carbon footprints from manufacturing new.”
While all secondhand shopping is earth-friendly, there can be a significant difference in the quality of the shopping experience surrounding secondhand fashion.
That’s because some resellers are just selling used clothes, whereas others devote time to selecting specific merchandise, curating a selection according to a theme or a price point.
Vintage stores, however, offer a higher quality shopping experience because they curate their merchandise to cater to a more discerning shopper. “When I enter a curated vintage boutique, I expect to see in-style items that are in demand, but also items that are in excellent condition because they’re not just curated, they’re also cleaned,” says Channing Hooper, owner of the online resale site Dacapo Thrift.
At Dallas boutiques like AAVintedge and Vintage Martini owners all items are specifically sourced and in pristine condition. Boutiques can even coordinate their selections to the events happening in Dallas, something Stetz says she appreciates. “I see dresses and cowboy boots around SMU’s Boulevard Season and vintage Dallas Stars and Mavericks merchandise, just to name a few things.”
Walking into Vintage Martini on Knox Street is like walking into a time capsule. Part of the layout is sectioned off by decades, dating back to pre-1900. The store focuses on more of the historical component of fashion and high-end collectible pieces, according to manager Emma Ginnell, who noted the store often connects with movie production companies for such garments.
“I’VE SEEN COUNTLESS ARTICLES AND TIKTOKS ON THE AMOUNT OF WASTE CREATED BY FAST FASHION, AND SHOPPING SECONDHAND MAKES ME FEEL GOOD ABOUT NOT CONTRIBUTING TO THAT WASTE,” SAYS LOGAN STETZ.
The distinction often comes down to a difference in terminology between what’s described as “thrift” and what’s described as “vintage,” says Jenny Davis, an SMU fashion media professor of practice. “With a classic thrift store, you’re shifting through piles of used clothing to discover that hidden gem, whereas with a vintage store, items are selected and arranged, leading to higher quality merchandise and an elevated shopping experience.”
If the style of the shopping experience matters, there’s an easy way to spot the difference, Davis says: simply look at the shop’s sourcing and selection methods. “If a store runs on donations like Goodwill, it’s a thrift store,” says Davis. There are popular resellers that don’t accept donations, like Buffalo Exchange and Plato’s Closet – items must be accepted by the retailer, and they’re sold on consignment, but these are still considered thrift stores because the bar to acceptance is low, says Davis. “They’re often looking only to condition and seasonality because the goal is to offer a lot of clothes rather than to offer only specific clothes.”
“I encourage people to shop secondhand because then you know that you’re never going to have the same trends as others,” Ginnell says. Vintage Martini offers luxury pieces from brands such as Chanel, Gucci, Jimmy Choo, Dior, and more.
Up the street, AAVintedge is known for its focus on denim. In fact, owner Caitlin Brax earned the nickname the “denim whisperer” because of her talent in matching people with pants.
“I just look at you, take a look at your body, have you do a little spin, then I pull denim that will fit you,” she says. “ I don’t look at sizes and we don’t believe in sizes.” Brax encourages people to shop vintage to stand out and be different from the crowd.
SMU senior Meaghan Doherty is an AAVintedge convert. “I prefer a smaller supply of higher quality items rather than a giant thrift store full of random things I most likely wouldn’t wear,” Doherty says.
Stetz agrees. “I love finding special items that can’t be found online or at the mall,” Stetz says. “It’s the best feeling when you get complimented on your outfit and you know that person can’t just turn around, look it up, and get the exact same thing.”
Kristen Dillard is a senior studying fashion media and journalism.
Winning Style
From earrings to sunglasses, accessories help these SMU football players score.
By Ella McDonaldOn game days at Southern Methodist University, the football team walks down the boulevard in a parade called Mustang Walk. It’s a hype walk where players can greet friends and family before heading into the stadium to experience the excitement of the crowd before kickoff. While the players must all dress alike – in official Nike sets – that doesn’t mean they can’t add a touch of fashion to their fits.
Look closely and you’ll see players who have personalized their Nike sets by accessorizing. Isaiah Nwokobia is one of them. “I’m a big shades guy,” says the junior, who plays safety. “I try to get different brands of shades, and that’s how I put my own kind of style on it.” His Instagram grid features photos of him sporting a different pair of sunglasses with almost every outfit. While Nwokobia admits he’s partial to McQueen, he says his style isn’t about the labels.
“Whatever you’re into, put your own flavor on it to make it unique to yourself,” he says. “The name brand stuff doesn’t really matter as long as what you’re wearing you feel good in and you feel like it’s genuinely you - that’s what I try to focus on.”
Wide receiver Jake Bailey also appreciates putting a personal spin on his gameday outfits through accessories. “Fashion allows me to express different sides of myself that people don’t usually see on the field,” says Bailey. His go-to accessory used to be diamond stud earrings on game days – until he got them ripped out during a game, he says.
Wide receiver Ashton Cozart is also a fan of stud earrings, showing off a stylish pair on his Instagram grid while wearing his SMU uniform (off the field, he adds more drip: a thick chain and logo sunglasses). Deuce Harmon, is also partial to stud jewelry, but the cornerback showcases his stud as a nose piercing.
But accessories aren’t just an expression of personal style for some players. Thanks to 2021 changes in National College Athletic Association rules that once prohibited student athletes from earning money and benefits through their team associations, it’s also a business opportunity. For example, SMU football players recently collaborated with a local Dallas fashion and accessory brand called True Brvnd. (The brand’s most viral style is an embroidered trucker hat with an upsidedown “DALLAS” logo.) The first SMU x True Brvnd trucker hat collaboration, which dropped last summer, sold out in seconds. During the 2023 football season, True Brvnd collaborated with SMU Football on another hat drop, this time adding a game day ticket to each purchase.
Spring Radiance
The season speaks to a light, bright approach to style.
Credits by Olivia Lanning Photography by Arden Eiland, Morgan Hellebusch, Ella McDonald, Helen Tran Styling by Ivy Nielsen Additional Styling by Betty Jane Thomas, Electra Ford, Hope Whitcraft, Emmy Kay Jensen, Eva Guerree, Lauren Hastings Model Coordination by Ella MillerGray Bertuccio
Skirt: Loveshackfancy, $595, Love Shack Fancy Highland Park Village
Top: Loveshackfancy, $295, Love Shack Fancy Highland Park Village
LEFT PAGE:
Top:
Heels:
LEFT PAGE:
Annie Russell
Earrings: Lele Sadoughi, $225, Lele Sadoughi
Highland Park Village
Dress: Loveshackfancy, $595, Love Shack Fancy
Highland Park Village
Bag: Loewe, $790, Neiman Marcus NorthPark
RIGHT PAGE:
Heels: Manolo Blahnik, $795, Neiman Marcus
NorthPark
Bag: The Row, $1,690, Neiman Marcus NorthPark
WHERE TO SHOP:
Loveshackfancy
29 Highland Park Village
Dallas loveshackfancy.com
Neiman Marcus NorthPark
8687 N. Central Expy. Dallas neimanmarcus.com
Lele Sadoughi
67 Highland Park Village Dallas lelesadoughi.com
LOOKING BACK
Remembering A spirited celebration
Exploring the SMU archives revealed a queen, a crown and chariot races.By Caroline Pierce
Chariot races, barbeques and student organization skits were all part of SMU’s fun-filled homecoming celebration called the Manada Carnival. Before the 2000s the carnival was a smallscale spirited tradition for SMU students and faculty to come together and honor their community. Similar to the modern-day homecoming queen, the Manada Queen was elected each year as a beloved and respected representative of SMU. She was awarded her crown and a bouquet of flowers at a ceremonial ball. The SMU Campus newspaper published a story recapping the Manada in April of 1960. Shown beaming while holding her crown, Judy Franklin, a sophomore, smiles as she is elected the SMU 1960 “Manada Queen.” The article also spoke about the thrilling fraternity chariot race around the track and the “Ugly Man” competition that raised money for the Damon Runyon Cancer Fund. Over time, the celebration’s popularity waned, and it ended in 2002 when the school’s festive focus officially shifted to fall’s homecoming events. The legacy of the Manada Carnival makes today’s homecoming that much sweeter.