SMU LOOK FALL/WINTER 2021
Inside Front Cover (Ad Space)
MARY-WESLEY MADDOX EDITOR-IN-CHIEF EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR MARIA CHAMMAS SENIOR EDITORS LONI NUNZIATA, JULIA FOX ASSISTANT EDITOR KATIE ABRAMS CREATIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR ISABEL MEADOWS FASHION EDITOR ALEX KAPELINA ASSISTANT FASHION EDITOR RANKIN MORI MODEL COORDINATOR SINCLAIR JELLEME PRODUCTION COORDINATOR LILLY JACH FASHION ASSISTANT CHRISSY NELLI ART ART DIRECTOR SARAH SCAMBRAY ART TEAM OLIVIA PORSCH, CAROLINE SOJA DIGITAL DIGITAL DIRECTOR CAROLYN HAMMOND DIGITAL EDITOR MARY THOMPSON CHARLEBOIS WRITERS PRINCESS MATTHEW, FERNANDA GONZALEZ, MADDIE CRISP, BELLA PINERA, LUCY LADIS, BROOKE BETIK MARKETING MARKETING DIRECTOR MORGAN GRUWELL ASSISTANT DIRECTOR KATE COWLES SALES & MARKETING MANAGER AMELIA EVANS SALES ASSISTANTS BENNETT HILL, KATIE ERIKSON, CLEMENTINE MARCOGLIESE, CATHERINE COOK EVENT COORDINATORS ANGELINA CHOUCAIR, NICOLE BARNES SOCIAL MEDIA TEAM INSTAGRAM DIRECTOR GILLIAN WILLIAMS CONTENT COORDINATOR ISABELLA DUFFY SOCIAL MEDIA ASSISTANTS MICHAELA MCTEE, CHARLOTTE KOLMAN VIDEO VIDEO DIRECTOR CAMILLE ENES VIDEO TEAM ALEXA FIELD, SUTTON SOINSKI, KAITLYN SCIARRINO, CHLOE GRACE CRISSMAN
Cu st o m, h a nd- pa inte d b ottle s fo r any occa s i on
CONTRIBUTORS ABBY CASILLAS, ALLYSANN JACKSON, REGAN TYRRELL PHOTOGRAPHERS ABBIE BIEGERT, TAITE ZAPALAC ADVISING EDITORS JAYNE SUHLER, JENNY DAVIS, CANDACE BARNHILL, ETHAN LASCITY, LISA GOODSON, KAREN THOMAS PHOTO ADVISOR ROBERT HART EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR TONY PEDERSON SMU Look, a student-run magazine at Southern Methodist University, is published by the Division of Journailsm in Meadows School of the Arts. SMU Look is dedicated to providing a youthful take on Dallas fashion and living. We strive to inspire and cultivate the standard of style on campus and beyond.
@ I K N O WA G I R R R L 2 • SMU LOOK
Umphrey Lee Center 6225 Hillcrest Avenue Dallas, TX 75275 Entire Contents © SMU Look
VOLUME 5. ISSUE 2
CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS
Features
LOOKING OUT
25
COURTING FASHION BY ABBY CASILLAS
WHAT WILL IT TAKE FOR FASHION BRANDS TO PLAY BALL WITH THE WNBA?
07 08 TAKE A BITE OUT OF DALLAS BY MARY-WESLEY MADDOX 30
SUPPORTING STYLE BY ALLYSANN JACKSON
40 MUST-KNOW MUSTANGS BY KATIE ABRAMS
32
BEAUTIFUL, BLUE AND RENEWED BY MARIA CHAMMAS
10
HAUTE GIRL WALK BY FERNANDA GONZALEZ
34
THE GREAT FASHION HOAX BY LONI NUNZIATA
17
GENDER-BENDING BAUBLES BY JULIA FOX
36
CRYPTO CHIC BY REGAN TYRRELL
HOUSE OF STYLE BY LUCY LADIS
quick looks
Get the look
12
FASHION IN FOCUS
YOUNG BLACK FASHION DESIGNERS NEED MORE THAN WORDS TO SUCCEED
LVMH IS REBRANDING AMERICA’S MOST ICONIC JEWELRY COMPANY
GEN Z THINKS SECONDHAND SUPPORTS SUSTAINABILITY. ARE THEY WRONG?
THE FUTURE OF FASHION IS VIRTUAL
On the cover:
MODEL: ZACK KUSHUBAR HAIR AND MAKEUP: KC CHAMBERS PHOTOGRAPHY: TAITE ZAPALAC
featured CONTRIBUTORS Allysann Jackson
taite Zapalac
ABBIE BIEGERT
guest writer
photographer
photographer
Year: SenioR Major: Marketing and Fashion Media Wardrobe Staple: Gold Jewelry
Year: Junior Major: Fashion media with minors in business and journalism Wardrobe staple: Mother denim looker Jeans
Year: Sophomore Major: Fashion Media Wardrobe Staple: Leather
Fall/Winter 21 • 3
Leading change through better healthcare design. 2801 Woodside St. Dallas, TX 75204 (512) 222-3835 www.averify.com
MW
LOOKING OUT
Letter From the Editor When considering the theme for this issue at the beginning of the year, I had so many possible directions to go. How do we sum up a semester with so many question marks? Upon returning to campus this fall, it was clear we weren’t out of the woods with COVID yet. Despite summer hopefulness and increased vaccine rates, we collectively came to terms with the fact that the COVID pandemic can’t just “end” overnight. With this in mind, and many other factors, I decided on the theme “Transformation.” The theme “Transformation” represents a change, but does not declare what the end result is. For this issue, we focused on the journey. The magazine itself went through a transformation. We had a solo male cover star for the first time ever. Sarah Scambray, our incredible art director, also gave the pages a chic new re-brand. Our lives as students have also undergone a transformation. This semester, we’ve been able to get out more, as highlighted in Take a Bite Out of Dallas (pg. 8) and Haute Girl Walk (pg. 10). We’ve learned more about what our peers have been up to in Must-Know Mustangs (pg. 40). And we got excited about Dallas’ own TikTok star Carla Rockmore in House of Style (pg. 7). The fashion industry is also changing on many fronts, from everyday trends (Fashion in Focus, pg. 12 and Gender-Bending Baubles, pg. 17) to bigger issues. The industry continues to confront diversity issues (Supporting Style, pg. 30 and Beautiful, Blue and Renewed, pg. 32) and finding its way into new spaces (Courting Fashion, pg. 25 and Crypto Chic, pg. 36). And problems with sustainability persist in The Great Fashion Hoax (pg. 34). This semester, we have enjoyed the journey of transforming the way we think about the magazine and about the fashion industry as a whole, and I cannot wait to see how the transformation continues after my time as editor-in-chief comes to an end.
Fall/Winter 21 • 5
MONOCLONAL ANTIBODY TREATMENT COVID SYMPTOMS? PCR Results in Minutes
6 • SMU LOOK
LOOKING OUT
Meet the Dallas Designer-Turned-TikTok Influencer with an Amazing Two-Story Closet
With nearly 700,000 followers, 7.8 million likes and content that regularly racks up more than 300,000 views, Dallas jewelry designer Carla Rockmore has become a certified TikTok influencer. And it all started with her closet. Rockmore’s closet is a vast two-story space boasting a spiral staircase, a fireplace and floor-to-ceiling built-in shelves, racks and cabinets. But it’s not just the space, it’s also what it contains: an envy-inducing collection of clothes, jewelry, shoes, and accessories spanning decades of styles. “I’ve got this huge collection surrounding me of all my baubles and bangles and, you know, beauties everywhere,” she says, “so I decided to start doing these videos.” In her videos, Rockmore mines her eclectic mix of clothing and accessories, styling looks that encourage confidence and appeal to all ages and personalities. Rockmore says she never expected the world would see these videos. During quarantine, her son helped her set up a TikTok account and upload some videos she made featuring her extensive collection of costume jewelry. She intended the videos to be only for friends, but it didn’t take long before others discovered them, too. And just like that, she went viral. Rockmore is new to TikTok, but not to fashion. Originally from Montreal, Canada, she earned a fashion design degree and worked as a designer in Europe for a Dutch fashion brand. Then, she returned to Canada, got married and started a family. For a while, she traveled to Europe on a regular basis, designing everything from children’s wear to denim to clubwear. Later, she became a jewelry designer and entrepreneur. Today, you’ll find Rockmore in Dallas, where she and her family have been for the past decade, surrounded by the fashion collection she’s been cultivating for 35 years. Despite the volume, she insists that she is not a fashion snob — she appreciates all beautiful treasures old or new, which is why her collection has grown into what it is today. With so much to choose from, deciding what to wear everyday might seem challenging. But not for Rockmore. Every outfit, she says, starts with a theme. “I usually choose a theme in my head, which is weird, but that’s the way my brain works,” Rockmore says about her outfits. “Like today, I want to be Audrey Hepburn with a twist of Sex Pistols.” From there, it’s all about embracing an eclectic vibe, a high-low mix, and unexpected combinations, like a cropped gold and silver chainmail vest paired with a white shirt underneath. The vest, Rockmore says, is her favorite piece because she was told it once belonged to Texas supermodel Jerry Hall, (aka Mrs. Mick Jagger). Rockmore’s popularity on TikTok has shocked her, but she enjoys the community of women she has found through the app — especially the mothers and daughters who enjoy her videos together. She says her goal is to show women do not always have to be wearing the latest fashions to be stylish. “Women are sick and tired of being dictated to, fashion-wise,” Rockmore says. “They want to wear what they want to wear and to feel like they’re expressing themselves.” You can find more from Rockmore on her TikTok @carlarockmore
Fall/Winter 21 • 7
Take a Bite These Recently Opened Restaurants are LOOK Approved By Mary-Wesley Maddox
W
e couldn’t believe Dallas didn’t have a Sweetgreen until now! With love for SMU staples Chopshop and Crisp & Green, Sweetgreen is sure to be a hit among students. The quick and healthy spot is located in Uptown’s West Village. Once you taste the unique salad combinations, Sweetgreen will be your new favorite takeout spot. Address: 3636 McKinney Avenue, Dallas Go For: Weekday Dinner (When you can’t be bothered to cook.) Look’s Menu Pick: Harvest Bowl — full of all the fall and winter flavors you need this season.
Photos by PULSÍTOS and Sama Hosseini
8 • SMU LOOK
S
Sweetgreen
Out of Dallas
V Villa Azur
T
his Miami-based restaurant is making its way to the W Hotel, and it is sure to be a new girl’s night fave. Villa Azur also has glamorous locations in St. Tropez, Las Vegas and more, and we couldn’t be more excited for the Dallas edition. The FrenchMediterrean fare and fun cocktail menu are perfect for a weekend dinner with friends. Address: 2440 Victory Park Ln, Dallas Go For: A Girl’s Night Out Look’s Menu Pick: The pàtes à la meule—it is pasta served tableside in a flaming cheese wheel!
T
Haute Girl O
:
OW
QUICK LOOKS
H
Haute (‘ōt) adj. The iconic Katy Trail is a staple for SMU students. This 3.5 mile trail is safe, beautifully maintained, and has easy access from campus all the way to downtown. Walking or running on the Katy Trail is a great way to get a workout in, catch up with a friend, or just decompress after a long day. What turns this trek into a specific trend? Making it haute.
What to Wear: The Haute girl looks put together yet effortless at all times, and an afternoon stroll along the Katy Trail is no different. In true Dallas fashion, the Katy Trail is an athleisure runway. If you have any cute sets you haven’t felt comfortable wearing out yet, the Katy Trail provides the perfect venue. “What we are noticing in the athleisure space is that more brands are creating athleisure wear that is a little more workfriendly, meaning pants that can be dressed up or down, but with fabrics that are so comfortable, you feel like you could do just about anything in them. This new trend almost opens the door for a whole new subset of athleisure that many are calling ‘workleisure.’” —Borne Collection
“The preppy 2000s style is definitely here to stay. I also think that workout sets and monochromatic looks will keep being a staple through the winter.” —Marcela Almeida, SMU fashion media and marketing alumni.
What to Listen to: The Haute girl takes advantage of time to self reflect, learn, and laugh with herself. Enjoy some of these podcast recommendations from the LOOK staff. “My current favorite podcasts are In Vogue: the 1990s and In Vogue: the 2000s. They are about the fashion history from these decades and it’s so interesting!” —Mary-Wesley, editor-in-chief.
10 • SMU LOOK
“I love listening to Smartless with Jason Bateman” —Sarah Scambray, art director.
1.
Fashionably elegant or high-class.
2.
Inspired from the term “hot girl,” originally coined by Megan Thee Stallion, the “hot girl” lifestyle is not focused on one’s superficial looks or assets but rather it encourages everyone to be their most authentic selves, constantly striving to become better while remaining humble and confident.
QUICK LOOKS
Walk
The Expert Guide to Exploring the Katy Trail in Style By Fernanda Gonzalez Illustrations by Sarah Scambray
What to Bring: The Haute girl is always prepared and organized with the best accessories to make her walk as productive and fun as possible. For a small but challenging workout, add resistance bangles to your stroll by investing in arm weights like the bala bangles. They are stylish, durable and you can pick between 1lb or 2lbs. You can attach them to your legs or arms, depending on where you want to add in some extra work. The Haute girl protects her skin. Don’t forget sunnies, sunscreen, and a cute hat. Even if it is not hot out, UV rays can still be harmful!
Haute girl walk means no hand clutter. A stylish fanny pack to hold keys, sunglasses, headphones, etc. is key. The lululemon fanny pack is definitely a favorite among Katy Trail walkers, and although it may be a little basic, it’s definitely cute. Hydrate, Hydrate, Hydrate! bkr water bottles offer double the hydration as the lid contains a lip balm and the bottle itself has a handle attached to the same lid making them very easy to carry.
Where to Stop Along the Way: The Haute girl treats herself. Rooftop for a fun lunch with friends. If retail therapy is more your thing, check out The Real Real for unique designer finds or Planet Bardot for upscale contemporary picks. You can even take the trail all the way downtown and explore!
N OX
ST
K
The Katy Trail Ice House is a classic staple of Dallas, and the restaurant provides free water on the trail for passersby. The trail leads right through Knox Street, which has some of our favorite stops. Check out Taverna, Toulouse and the RH
.
TAVERNA Fall/Winter 21 • 11
GET THE LOOK
FASHION IN FOCUS
Sharpen your Style with this Trio of Trends
TOUGHEN Up Ray-Ban, $190 Revolve.com
Scotch and Soda, $148 ShopBop.com
alice + olivia, $485 Revolve.com
Ganni, $85 Revolve.com
AllSaints, $378 revolve.com
Clothing: To Be Continued Model: Ella McCarty Photographer: Taite Zapalac Makeup: KC Chambers
There was once a time when fashion trends were not declared by the Emma Chamberlains of the world. Instead of influencers, social and political change dictated what people wore. In trying times, when resources were limited, people had to shop smart. They opted for pieces that not only could be worn across all seasons, but were both stylish and practical. Fast forward to today: Times are trying, resources are limited, and
12 • SMU LOOK
Agolde, $119 ShopBop.com
everyone is shopping smart. And guess what? Utility is back! Brands like Burberry, Fendi and alice + olivia have embraced the trend, sending models down the runway in fashion that functions — think military-inspired jumpsuits, lug-soled boots, and plenty of pockets. Best of all, all of this comfort and convenience means it’s easier than ever to rock that cross-campus walk to class. —M.C.
GET THE LOOK By Maria Chammas, Julia Fox, and Mary-Wesley Maddox
Best in
CLASS
Lovers + Friends, $68 revolve.com
Maje, $267 saksfifthavenue.com
alice + olivia, $495 saksfifthavenue.com
Sam Edelman, $150 nordstrom.com
Gucci, $195 netaporter.com
Time to take note: The preppy-chic academic trend is back, blowing up the internet and promising to stay around a while. There are so many ways to incorporate this trend into your everyday look, from varsity sweaters to platform loafers. A blend of the ‘80s-era Preppy Handbook craze and the recent Gossip Girl reboot, the private-school uniform look isn’t just for
Gucci Dress, $830 from To Be Continued
East Coast Blue Bloods anymore. This season, it ’s on runways everywhere, starting with the Fall-Winter 2021 collections from Saint Laurent, Celine, Gucci, Self-portrait and Alessandra Rich. We promise that it’s only a matter of time until this too-cool-forschool comes to SMU, too. — J.F.
Fall/Winter 21 • 13
STYLE BY ANN MASON
PERSONAL SHOPPING. CLOSET CONSULTING. STYLING.
www.stylexannmason.com @style_ann_thecity styleannthecity@gmail.com 14 • SMU LOOK
GET THE LOOK
Après
SEMESTER By Mary-Wesley Maddox
Moon Boots, $228 Farfetch.com
House of Sunny, $135 HouseofSunny.co.uk
Perfect Moment, $290 Shopbop.com
Brandon Blackwood, $275 SaksFifthAvenue.com
Apres-ski, the French phrase for “after ski,” is a classic winter style trend, and it’s back again this season. Spotted in countless ready-to-wear collections. the Miu Miu Fall/Winter ‘21 collection may have done it best. The Italian brand featured models in an arctic wonderland, sporting metallic ski suits, crochet knits and fur accessories.
Escada Ski Jacket, $200 from To Be Continued
Adopt this style with an oversized fair isle sweater or a metallic puffer. Moon boots, those oversized, puffy boots from the 1980s, also are back, this time in metallic and faux fur versions. And don’t forget to add shearling. From jacket collars to boots and bags, it’s an easy way to add a cozy texture and warmth to an outfit. — M.W.M
Fall/Winter 21 • 15
The Lexus IS and Sewell’s unmatched customer service. Nothing less than extraordinary.
Dallas 16 • SMU LOOK
Fort Worth
SewellLexus.com
GET THE LOOK
It’s Time for Guys to Get Creative with Jewelry
GENDER
BENDI N
Tiffany & Co., $750, tiffany.com
G Hermès, $395 hermes.com
Khiry, $525 khiry.com
BAUBLES By Julia Fox
Fashionkilla A$AP Rocky and Joc Pederson of the Atlanta Braves are known for their pearls. Actor-slashrapper Jaden Smith often layers gold chains, and Harry Styles is rarely seen without some sort of golden accessory around his neck or on his fingers. Style-forward stars ranging from Drake to Machine Gun Kelly regularly — and unapologetically — wear jewelry. While their fame factor means they can pull off anything, this trend is definitely trickling down to mainstream men. It’s the latest expansion of fashion’s embrace of gender fluidity and proof that glitter isn’t just for girls. For any boys willing to bring on the bling, here are three ways to layer on the luxe.
Perfect Pearls
Statement Rings
Bold Bracelets
Pearls are the ultimate cool-guy must-have. Though Pharrell Williams has modelled pearls for years, pearl strands recently have been embraced by male influencers en masse, making these creamy beads the must-have accessory of the moment.
Rings aren’t just for grooms and gangsters anymore. Men in rings are, well, manly! — just ask ring-wearing rockers like Harry Styles and Ed Sheeran. While Gucci leads the group when it comes to bold design, Fendi, Bottega Veneta and independent lines like Khiry by Jameel Mohammed specialize in a more subtle touch of style.
Think of these stylish wrist wraps as the gateway drug into male jewelry. Adding a leather band or silver cuff with a bold watch provides a perfect pairing. Extra points for anything with a logo accent — think Hermès, Ferragamo or Louis Vuitton.
Fall/Winter 21 • 17
GALLERY GONE ROGUE Punk and Preppy Come Together to Frame This Season’s Most Important Fashion Looks
Produced and styled by: Creative Director Isabel Meadows Fashion Editor Alex Kapelina Assistant Fashion Editor Rankin Mori Model Coordinator Sinclair Jelleme Production Coordinator Lilly Jach Fashion Assistant Chrissy Nelli Photography by: Abbie Biegert Hair and Makeup: Eleanor Brown, Claire Brandenberger Models: Lauren Burke, Tannah Collins, Francesco Schilleci, Skage Simonsen, Julia Sutherland Shot on location at The Meadows Museum For more information, see Where to Shop on page 40
18 • SMU LOOK
Left to Right: On Lauren Body Suit: Standard, $245 Pants: Isabel Marant, $965 Bralette: Stylist’s Own On Julia Dress: Jonathan Simkhai, $675 Necklace: Jennifer Behr, $475 Bracelet: Jennifer Behr, $325 Other Jewelry: Model’s Own On Skage Sweater: Rebecca Vallance, $265 Pants: Target, $22.99 Necklace: Vivienne Westwood, $195 On Tannah Dress: alice + olivia, $495 On Francesco Shirt: Fruit of the Loom, $15 Chain: Isabel Marant, $430 Jeans: Model’s Own
Fall/Winter 21 • 19
Dress: Rebecca Vallance, $265 Headband: Jennifer Behr, $425 Necklace: Isabel Marant, $320
20 • SMU LOOK
Sweater: Rebecca Vallance, $265 Pants: Target, $22.99 Necklace: Vivienne Westwood, $195
Fall/Winter 21 • 21
Dress: alice + olivia, $495
22 • SMU LOOK
On Julia: Dress: Alexis, $385 Boots: Isabel Marant, $1,770 Belt: Isabel Marant, $670 On Francesco: Jacket: alice + olivia, $395 Pants: AG Denim, $185
Fall/Winter 21 • 23
'11D MARUGAME UDON
E JAPANESE NOODLES & TEMPURA
R�MEN'S BIG BROTHER.
mID MARUGAME UDON
E JAPANESE NOODLES & TEMPURA
5500 Greenville Ave, Dallas, TX 75206
BUY ONE GET ONE FREE This offer is good for one free bowl of udon with purchase of one bowl of udon. Not valid for on line or delivery orders. Guest must surrender this coupon upon purchase. Not valid with any other offers or promotions. Only one offer per person.
Expires January 31, 2022
COURTING FASHION What Will it Take for Fashion Brands to Play Ball with the WNBA? By Abby Casillas
T
here’s a reason why popular Swedish brand Acne Studios asked Russell Westbrook of the Los AngelesLakers to be the face of the brand. It’s the same reason Banana Republic teamed up with Cleveland Cavalier Kevin Love, and Italian luxury footwear brand Giuseppe Zanotti signed on Houston Rockets player P.J. Tucker for a sneaker design partnership. That reason is inf luence. If players wear it, people will buy it. But all this love shown for NBA players raises an interesting question: Where’s the hype for WNBA players? After all, women basketball players love fashion, too, and they happily rock couture ensembles. Just look at Charli Collier of the Dallas Wings, whose custom one-shouldered, slit-to-there Sergio Hudson dress won accolades from the fashion press during the 2021 virtual WNBA draft (Collier was the number one pick), or Las Vegas Aces star A’ja Wilson, who’s known for her custom basketball jersey dresses. “I feel the WNBA is an untapped market for fashion brands,” Keiser Clark designer Marc Keiser told WWD in a recent article on the WNBA and fashion opportunities. Keiser, who has worked with the Seattle Storm’s Sue Bird, believes WNBA players have a genuine audience: “Fans pay attention to them maybe twice as much as the men’s athlete.” The NBA is, of course, far more popular in terms of viewership than the women’s league, and that’s a critical factor when it comes to the kind of influence required to ink a major brand endorsement. But the WNBA is gaining viewers at a rapid rate. In its 2021 opening weekend, viewership numbers jumped 74% over 2020, and 45% over 2019, according to ESPN. Across the 2021 season, the WNBA reported a 51% increase in viewership over the previous year, and a 50% increase in merchandise sales from WNBAStore.com. Viewership is up. Merch sales are up. But designers, stylists and retailers aren’t clamoring to dress WNBA players. “I hate to say it’s a numbers game, but ultimately male athletes bring in more popularity, WNBA players in particular need to bring in more exposure to even think about reaching the brand deals NBA players do,” says Ryan Kota, a sports management
professor at Southern Methodist University in Dallas. Luckily, Kota and others say it’s not impossible to do. There are three specific things that WNBA athletes can do to raise their profiles, making them competitive to score a lucrative – and stylish – fashion brand deal.
1. Continue to Play Well The more people start watching the WNBA, the more opportunity exists for players to earn exposure and gain the kind of influence necessary to attract fashion sponsorships. “WNBA has not yet moved to the cult of personality, but as the popularity of the league grows, individual players will become more marketable,” says Matt Powell, senior industry advisor for sports at the NPD Group.
2. Work the Social Media Angle A strong social media presence is integral to inking a fashion brand deal these days, and the players who get the endorsements are those who make fashion part of their brands, says Brandon Mastromartino, assistant professor of sports management at SMU. “A strong presence on social media leads to brand deals,” he says. “If fans see their favorite player wear something, they will be interested in purchasing it as well.”
3. Work the Concrete Runway Any opportunity that gets a player’s outfit blasted to the public, via mainstream press or social media, is an opportunity to build influence. Mastromartino suggests WNBA players capitalize on the “concrete runway” — the tunnel the athletes walk through in their sports arenas — and the press that’s usually surrounding them on game days. Saatchi & Saatchi creative director Lauren Varvara agrees: “Tunnel fits” are the way to go. The firm has worked with the WNBA on promotions and events, and in the WWD story, she confirmed that players with pregame drip “garner a ton of attention on social media.” Abby Casillas is a senior double-majoring in Sports Management and Fashion Media.
This Season, Indulge in Decadent Details like Velvet, Lace and Brocade
Produced and styled by: Alex Kapelina, Rankin Mori, Chrissy Nelli Photograpy: Abbie Biegert Hair and Makeup: Caroline Davis, Sinclair Jelleme, Chrissy Nelli, Claire Brandenberger Models: Alexa Anderson, Caroline O’Connor, Eva Elettrache, Natalie Dragt, Paige Rusing Shot on location at BIRD Bakery in Highland Park Village For more information, see Where to Shop on page 40
Dress: Rotate, $649
On Alexa: Dress: Alice + Olivia, $595 Gloves: Lele Sadoughi, $95 Headband: Stylist’s Own
On Paige: Shirt: Alice + Olivia, $440 Bustier: Alice + Olivia, $295 Leather Pants: Alice + Olivia, $295
On Eva: Dress: La Ligne, $395 Cuff Bracelet: Sylvia Toledano, $190 Headband: Jennifer Behr, $450
28 • SMU LOOK
On Caroline: Dress: Alice + Olivia, $895
Fall/Winter 21 • 29
SUPPO STYLE Young Black Fashion Designers Need More Than Words to Succeed By Allysann Jackson
Ann Lowe in her atelier.
Credit Johnson Publishing Company Archive. Courtesy Ford Foundation, J. Paul Getty Trust, John D. and Catherine T. MacArthur Foundation, Andrew W. Mellon Foundation and Smithsonian Institution.
30 • SMU LOOK
ORTING F
rom Ann Lowe, who designed Jaqueline Kennedy’s wedding dress in 1953, to Virgil Abloh, the current artistic director of menswear at Louis Vuitton, Black fashion designers have never lacked for talent. What they haven’t always had, however, is institutional support at the start of their careers. “Overall, there has been a long history of systemic racism where Black fashion designers specifically have not been given opportunities,” says Ariele Elia, adjunct instructor at the Fashion Institute of Technology and assistant director of the Fashion Law Institute in New York City. Even today, Black representation among the ranks of mainstream designers is negligible: Only 4% of those who belong to the Council of Fashion Designers of America, considered the industry’s most important organization, identif y as Black, according to a 2020 Women’s Wear Daily article. The summer of 2020 sparked a needed conversation about race and diversity in the fashion industry that has resulted in new initiatives and the strengthening of existing programs that support Black-owned brands. “The murder of George Floyd galvanized and radicalized a new demographic of white liberals, many of whom are in the fashion industry,” says Jonathan Square, assistant professor of Black visual culture at Parsons School of Design in New York City. Customers demanded to know whether their favorite brands advocated for diversity and inclusion, prompting many brands to issue statements in support of the Black Lives Matter Movement and Black fashion designers. As a result, organizations like the Fifteen Percent Pledge emerged, and Harlem’s Fashion Row, a longtime advocate for industry change, began to get more publicity. While increased support of Black designers in the fashion industry was welcome, necessary, and long overdue, true industry equity won’t be reached until up-and-coming Black creators have an equal opportunity to succeed. Experts agree that scholarship programs for fashion students and mentorship programs to nurture new graduates are necessary. Any approach to racial equity in the fashion industry must focus on providing financially accessible educational opportunities for Black creatives. "If we look at the next generation,” Elia says, the question must be asked: “Are they having to access education to be able to be more formally trained in business tactics and design techniques?" That education is expensive. In New York City, yearly undergraduate tuition alone can range from approximately $7,000 for instate residents at New York state’s Fashion Institute of Technology to more than $50,000 at Parsons. That’s why scholarships are critical, a point Abloh underscored when he announced the creation of the Virgil Abloh “Post-Modern” Scholarship
in July 2020. For Abloh, the scholarship is a way to “make sure I’m not one of the few, but one of many in my industry,” according to his Instagram announcement of the scholarship. “All I want is for any young Black kid to achieve a shorter path to their career goals,” he posted. Abloh is not alone in his recognition that money matters. In early September 2021, the CFDA announced its partnership with the Coach Foundation to launch the Coach Dream It Real x CFDA Design Scholarship. The purpose of the scholarship is to help under-resourced students from underrepresented backgrounds to study fashion design, according to the CFDA. But funding alone can only solve so much. Black fashion designers also need access to strong mentorship programs, and this type of support is sorely lacking for Black fashion creatives. Only 36% of employees of color say that they have a senior person to go to for advice compared to nearly 50% of white employees, according to the CFDA and PVH Corp.’s State of Diversity, Equity & Inclusion in Fashion 2021 report. “It’s important to encourage entrepreneurship, but equally crucial to provide ongoing mentorship, networking, and exposure,” says Nancy Deihl, department chair and clinical assistant professor of art and art professions at New York University. Through mentorship programs, Black designers can receive needed career advocates. This not only boosts the confidence of the mentee, but it creates needed networking connections. Of the 48% of respondents who said they received a referral for their job, only 23% of them were Black while nearly 60% were white, according to the CFDA and PVH report. The R AISEfashion program recognizes this need. Founded in July 2020, the program aims to support Black fashion brands, professionals, and students. “This organization recognizes the racial bias and discrimination that can undermine the success and potential of some Black designers and business owners,” its website states. RAISEfashion initiatives include a 10-week professional development program for students from historically Black colleges and universities, and a mentorship program for Black-owned fashion brands. The mentorship pairs owners with industry professionals to create a “proactive and energized network with an opportunity to create positive systemic change,” according to the website. Elia believes these initiatives will “open up access to designers in order for them to excel and push their fashion brands forward.” Yet, she stresses that the work is not done, and the fight is far from over. “ We still have a long way to go,” she says, “to actually create systemic change.” Allysann Jackson is a senior majoring in Marketing and Fashion Media.
Fall/Winter 21 • 31
LVMH is Rebranding America’s Most Iconic Jewelry Company
32 • SMU LOOK
Beautiful, Blue& Renewed By Maria Chammas
In the world of luxury fashion, Jan. 7, 2021 was one for the history books: the day when Tiffany & Co., the legendary New York City-based jewelry brand, was officially acquired by Paris-based luxury conglomerate LVMH. The deal brought Tiffany, known for its distinctive blue boxes, its Fifth Avenue flagship, and its cinematic connection to Audrey Hepburn, under the same ownership as Christian Dior, Givenchy, and Louis Vuitton. And so far, it seems LVMH is turning the historic retailer’s image from classic to fantastic, thanks to a splashy new ad campaign that embraces fame, love, company history, and a new approach to diversity. Tiffany & Co. was founded in 1837 by jeweler Charles Lewis Tiffany. Over the years, the company became known for its exquisite workmanship and its diamonds. In 1878, it unveiled a 128.54 carat masterpiece called the Tiffany Diamond. One of the largest yellow diamonds in the world, the Tiffany Diamond has been so important to the brand that it remains proudly on display at the Fifth Avenue flagship. Over the next century, Tiffany became a global brand — and a shopping mall mainstay. Americans across the country coveted the baubles in blue boxes, and the store entered cinematic history with 1961’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, starring Audrey Hepburn. By the end of 2019, the brand boasted more than 300 stores in over 20 countries and $4.44 billion in annual revenue. But everything leading up to that moment was not as shiny as it seemed. The 2008 global recession sunk the company’s profits as big-spenders stopped spending, and profits never really bounced back. In the 1990s, following an earlier recession, the company had embraced a more mass-market approach, stressing affordable luxury, and that led some to suggest that the brand’s most valuable asset was its image, not its inventory. Enter LVMH. Founded by French entrepreneur Bernard Arnault in 1987, LVMH — short for Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton — is the world’s leading group of luxury products. Its portfolio includes 75 luxury brands, with Bulgari, Hennessey and Dom Pérignon, among them. While the initial deal for LVMH to purchase Tiffany for $16.2 billion was announced in January 2019, it was almost derailed because of the COVID-19 pandemic. The pandemic forced the closure of Tiffany & Co. stores, which led to a drop in stock prices and caused LVMH to reconsider. And after some legal wrangling through 2020, including a lawsuit by Tiffany & Co. against LVMH, the companies salvaged the deal at the slightly lower price of $16 billion. “We are optimistic about Tiffany’s ability to accelerate its growth,” Arnault
announced in LVMH’s press release announcing the deal’s finalization. “We are committed to supporting Tiffany with the same dedication and passion that we have applied to each of our prestigious Maisons.” Since then, Tiffany & Co. began making waves with its new multimedia advertising campaign. On Sept. 2, the “About Love” campaign launched, featuring arguably the most iconic couple in the country: Beyoncé and Jay-Z. It represented the brand’s “latest evolution,” according to its Aug. 23 announcement of the campaign. The campaign included a series of advertisements and short films, including one where Beyoncé serenades her husband with a rendition of “Moon River” — notably sung by Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany’s. But perhaps the most amazing element of the campaign was what Beyoncé wears throughout: the Tiffany Diamond. Beyoncé is only the fourth woman, and the first woman of color, to wear the Tiffany Diamond, which is now estimated to be worth $30 million, according to the company. When released, one advertisement immediately broke the internet, and praise flowed for the company’s perceived evolution to embrace diversity. Not only are the Carters outspoken activists and uber-successful entrepreneurs, but the advertisement featured a little-seen piece of artwork by pioneering Black artist, Jean-Michel Basquiat. The piece from 1982 was recently purchased by Tiffany and was — coincidentally — done in a shade of blue reminiscent of the jeweler’s boxes. “I think it’s a phenomenal ad,” Marci Armstrong, the Brierley Endowed Professor of marketing at SMU, says of the highly circulated campaign. “It makes you buy into Tiffany’s glamourous image — it’s love.” The romantic advertising campaign created buzz for Tiffany and is a step towards increasing diversity, but it will need to keep it up to reclaim the pinnacle of luxury. “Tiffany is making an effort to reconnect with culture and youth,” says Dr. Quan Xie, an assistant professor of advertising at SMU. “They are embracing diversity.” While questions remain about LVHM’s commitment to diversity since it has no people of color on its executive committee, it did announce a $2 million pledge to support scholarships and internships at Historically Black Colleges and Universities — a commitment made in partnership with the Carters. Even if questions remain, “at least you know that they’re aware enough to do something like this in their advertising,” says Armstrong.
“Tiffany is making an effort to reconnect with culture and youth”
Maria Chammas is a junior double majoring in Fashion Media and Journalism and double minoring in French and European Studies.
Beyoncé and JAY-Z for the Tiffany & Co. fall 2021 ABOUT LOVE campaign, shot by Mason Poole
Fall/Winter 21 • 33
THE
GREAT FASHION HOAX Gen Z thinks secondhand supports sustainability. Are they wrong? By Loni Nunziata
34 • SMU LOOK
Whether it’s called resale, used, pre-owned, pre-loved, secondhand, thrifted, or vintage, the market surrounding the second sale of fashion is currently valued at $34 billion, according to a 2021 report by online resale giant ThreadUp. And that’s only the beginning. The resale fashion market is expanding 11 times faster than the corresponding retail market, and it’s projected to nearly triple in size by 2030, according to the report. The reasons behind this rise are many, including the move to online shopping during the COVID-19 pandemic and the increased industry-wide emphasis on sustainability. But Gen Z just may be the most important factor. This generation — generally defined as people born between 1997 and 2012 — loves resale. Its members now account for more than 40% percent of global consumers, and their embrace of secondhand fashion eclipses all other age groups, according to a recent NPR story on the issue. For them, buying resale is more of an attitude than an action. “ When it comes to Gen Z, thrif ting has evolved from a purchasing behavior to a solidified lifestyle,” confirms Jenna Guarascio, vice president of content strategy for Fashion Snopes, a consumer insight and trend forecasting company based in New York City. It’s all part of Gen Z’s emphasis on experiences over possessions, Guarascio explains. “Young consumers find just as much enjoyment in the hunt as they do the styling,” she says. A critical component in Gen Z’s embrace of resale is the perception that buying used clothes is more sustainable than buying something new. Gen Z buyers are outspokenly eco-conscious shoppers in the face of the fashion industry’s disastrous effect on the planet. But, buying secondhand may not be as sustainable as it seems. The key to lessening the environmental impact of the fashion industry is actually reduction — buying less and making less. Certainly secondhand purchases play a part in this by extending
the life of clothes and keeping it out of landfills. But researchers say this isn’t enough because it’s not actually replacing retail shopping behavior, it’s contributing to a new, larger pattern of shopping. In other words, Gen Z is buying even more than before. They’re simply adding used clothes to their expanding shopping cart. A 2020 study published by the Journal of Sustainability Research found that resale shopping actually supported more indulgent shopping. The study called the characterization of the resale market as eco -friendly a “misconception,” and instead found it to be “an ex tension of the fashion marketplace; not an alternative model of consumption.” In fact, the study noted that the existence of resale shopping platforms encouraged shoppers to buy even more because they knew they could resell any “mistakes” on a resale platform, mitigating their monetary loss. (Indeed 62% of the inventory on pre-owned platforms is either unworn or scarcely worn, according to a recent Business of Fashion article questioning resale’s eco-friendly reputation.) This pro - consumption approach is evident in a 2018 partnership between luxury brand Stella McCartney and the online consignment giant TheRealReal. The deal offered RealReal resale consignors of Stella McCartney merchandise a $100 credit towards new merchandise at a Stella McCartney boutique or its ecommerce site. The partnership, according to the companies’ joint press release, “keeps Stella McCartney items out of landfills by giving them a second life through resale.” But critics point to the fact that this incentive is paired with a promotion that encourages consumption. The bottom line seems simple: buying pre-owned isn’t necessarily sustainable. The solution, rather, is buying less of everything, used or not.
“BUYING SECONDHAND MAY NOT BE AS SUSTAINABLE AS IT SEEMS”
Loni Nunziata is a senior Fashion Media, Journalism, and Corporate Communications & Public Affairs triple major.
Fall/Winter 21 • 35
CRYPTO
CHIC The Future of Fashion is Virtual
36 • SMU LOOK
By Regan Tyrrell
Imagine a world where consumers can buy luxury fashion items — a Louis Vuitton bag, Gucci loafers, a Saint Laurent suit — without using paper money or even physically possessing the item. Instead, they’d use digital currency to buy a virtual item, and the transaction would be a win-win for both consumer and company. This new form of buying isn’t fantasy or a vision of the future, it’s happening today with cryptocurrency like Bitcoin and Ethereum and a type of “cryptoasset” called a non-fungible token, or NFT. And both just might be the future of the luxury fashion business. The first digital currency was introduced as a response to the 2008 global financial crisis and the world’s reliance on banks and government-backed monetary systems. Computer scientists wrote the code for a digital-only currency called “bitcoin,” launching a parallel currency market built on a peerto-peer model that uses blockchain technology to record and verify transactions. Today, bitcoin is only one of many cryptocurrencies available in a market recently valued at upwards of $3 trillion, according to CNBC. NFTs entered the market as a consumer item in 2017 through an online game called CryptoKitties. The game allowed players to buy and breed limitededition digital cats, and the idea of buying and selling intangible images, videos and in-game items caught on. Typically, an NFT is a graphic viewable only at the discretion of the owner. Although an NFT can be viewed on its owner’s iPhone, the data is actually kept on a digital ledger using blockchain technology, which proves ownership and prevents duplication. NFTs have become so popular that 2021 sales exceeded $23 billion by September, according to Reuters.
FA S H I O N G O E S C R Y P T O
T R E N DY TO KE N S
Some of the biggest names in the luxury fashion business are already cashing in on the crypto boom, and it may be only a matter of time before even more luxury labels enter this lucrative new world, where virtual money and merchandise can result in very real revenue. Cryptocurrency is already an accepted form of payment at major non-fashion businesses like Microsoft, AT&T, Whole Foods and Starbucks. But experts say cryptocurrency makes good business sense for luxury fashion businesses, too. One benefit is that it offers customers in different countries the opportunity to use a single currency, says independent fashion copywriter Katie Ramsingh. This, she says, makes “fashion more accessible for people around the world.” Businesses also benefit. Customers paying with cryptocurrency spend more per transaction than those using traditional payment methods, according to a 2020 study conducted by the independent research firm Forrester for Bitpay, a blockchain payment processing company. The study also found that 11% of survey respondents reported using cryptocurrency for the first time. It seems customers are ready to deal in digital money. In a 2020 survey conducted by Plutus, a London-based financial tech firm, 81% of respondents who own cryptocurrency welcome more opportunities to spend it. “In the future, we will see this form of payment to be more common,” confirmed Jasper Tay, co-founder and chief operating officer of Plutus. In August of 2021, the high-end Swiss brand Philipp Plein became the first major brand to accept cryptocurrency as a form of payment. Louis Vuitton, Burberry and Rimowa have dabbled in accepting cryptocurrency, but Philipp Plein is the first to go all in. “I believe in the future of CRYPTO – this is why I decided to offer this payment method in my stores and online,” brand founder Philipp Plein wrote on his Instagram at the time of the announcement.
NFTs are also set to become important revenue generators for luxury fashion brands. That’s what Cathy Hackl predicted in an April Vogue Business article on the topic. Hackl is CEO of Futures Intelligence Group, which specializes in advising brands about new technology. “Right now, fashion being sold via NFT is fashion as art, and not necessarily fashion as a utility,” she told Vogue Business. But she says attaching some sort of utility to an NFT, whatever that may be, might be next. Until then, fashion brands are continuing to show that NFTs attract buyers no matter what form they take. In March 2021. Gucci and Balenciaga collaborated on a four-minute video NFT called Aria that sold for $25,000. (While the profit was likely significant, the proceeds of the sale were donated to a charity promoting COVID-19 vaccine access.) An NFT launched by Givenchy Parfums for Pride Week 2021 sold 1,952 copies in two seconds, resulting in a $128,000 donation to an LGBT+ nonprofit. As time goes on, the embrace of crypto will only increase, predicts Ramsingh. “We will continue to see cryptocurrency positively impacting the luxury fashion industry and encouraging the use of digital NFTs,” she says, “especially as the young generation continues to invest in the digital world.” Regan Tyrrell is a senior Fashion Media major and a Graphic Design minor.
“I BELIEVE IN THE FUTURE OF CRYPTO”
Fall/Winter 21 • 37
WWW.SMULOOK.COM | @SMULOOK STAY IN THE KNOW.
38 • SMU LOOK
ROSE B UD P ROP E RI E S , I NC .
Where to
SHOP AG (Gallery Gone Rogue) NorthPark Center (Level One) 8687 N Central Expy Dallas agjeans.com
alice + olivia (Let Them Eat Cake) Highland Park Village 7b Highland Park Village Dallas aliceandolivia.com Isabel Marant (Gallery Gone Rogue) NorthPark Center (Level One) 8687 N Central Expy Dallas isabelmarant.com/us
DON FARRIS 3100 MONTICELLO | SUITE 765 DALLAS, TEXAS 75205 ROSEBUD-PROPERTIES.COM
214.808.1437 | 520.2408 FAX 214.808.8304 CELL DPFARRIS@SWBELL.NET
La Ligne (Let Them Eat Cake) Highland Park Village 26C Highland Park Village Dallas lalignenyc.com MARKET Highland Park (Gallery Gone Rogue, Let Them Eat Cake) Highland Park Village 26 Highland Park Village Dallas shopmarkethighlandpark.com To Be Continued (Fashion in Focus) Pavilion on Lovers Lane 5600 W Lovers Ln Suite 130 Dallas tbcconsignment.com Tootsies (Gallery Gone Rogue, Let Them Eat Cake) The Plaza at Preston Center 8416 Preston Rd Dallas tootsies.com
SHOPKOCH.COM
Fall/Winter 21 • 39
@SHOP_KOCH
Must Know
MUSTANGS
School Year: Junior Major: Psychology with a minor in Advertising Hometown: Newport Beach, CA Wardrobe Staple: Layering Jackets
Ally Lobel is an advocate for mental health awareness. Ally witnessed a lot of her friends, both at SMU and at other colleges, struggle with mental illnesses. The psychology major said she listened to and supported them, but often felt helpless and wished she could do more. She did just that by founding the Helping Hearts club. The club hosts events that cover topics in mental help and provides students with resources and advice. Ally is passionate about Helping Hearts and its goal to help people no longer feel alone in overcoming their mental struggles. Ally is a member of Kappa Alpha Theta and enjoys dancing in her spare time.
40 • SMU LOOK
Marian Rowley
Jack Mayo
Ally Lo
bel
By Katie Abrams
School Year: Senior Majors: Advertising (Digital Media) and Film Hometown: Frisco, TX Wardrobe Staple: Apple Watch, Lululemon Shorts
Jack Mayo comes from a family of talented filmmakers. Both his dad and uncle were in the industry, but Jack is forging his own path. He works with the SMU Football creative department to produce highlight videos, game trailers, and a weekly show on ESPN+. In collaboration with others, Jack films the content for the Instagram @smuf b. He said he shows up four hours prior to kickoff to set up, film, and capture all of SMU’s special moments. But the hard work is worth it because Jack gets to share the players’ inspiring stories and meet their amazing families. Once he graduates, Jack wants to specialize in commercial work and music videos.
School Year: Junior Majors: Marketing and Fashion Media Hometown: Panama City, Panama Wardrobe Staple: Vintage leather jacket
Ma r ia n wa nts to ma ke a difference by raising awareness of the importance of the Latinx fashion and beauty market within the global industr y. She does this every day in her position as president of the Latinx Fashion Leadership Council. The club provides networking opportunities and educates about the business side of fashion through the lens of multiculturalism. In February, L xFLC launched the Hispanic Heritage Month Summit, a campuswide event that featured a panel of fashion and beauty business leaders, which Marian moderated. In her spare time, Marian works at the Cox Career Management Center and loves to cook.
Inside Back Cover
Canvas & Silk
HISTORIC FASHION FROM MADRID’S MUSEO DEL TRAJE Through January 9
MEADOWS MUSEUM • SMU meadowsmuseumdallas.org
This exhibition has been organized by the Meadows Museum, SMU, Dallas, and the Museo del Traje, Centro de Investigación del Patrimonio Etnológico, Madrid, Spain, and is funded by a generous gift from The Meadows Foundation. Promotional support provided by the Dallas Tourism Public Improvement District.
Left: Ignacio Zuloaga y Zabaleta (Spanish, 1870–1945), Portrait of the Duchess of Arión, Marchioness of Bay, 1918. Oil on canvas. Meadows Museum, SMU, Dallas. Museum purchase with funds generously provided by Mr. and Mrs. Walter Levy and Mr. and Mrs. Lawrence Hermele, MM.2014.05. Photo by Michael Bodycomb. Right: Mantón de Manila (embroidered Manila silk shawl), c. 1920. Silk. Museo del Traje, Madrid. CE053257. ©Museo del Traje. Centro de Investigación del Patrimonio Etnológico, Madrid, Spain. Photo by Jesús Madriñán.
OPEN-AIR SHOPPING AND DINING DESTINATION
AKRIS ALEXANDER McQUEEN ALICE + OLIVIA AUDEMARS PIGUET BANDIER BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CAROLINA HERRERA CARTIER CELINE CHANEL CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN DIOR ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA ETRO FENDI FRAME GOYARD HARRY WINSTON HERMÈS JIMMY CHOO LE LABO LELA ROSE LELE SADOUGHI LORO PIANA LOVESHACKFANCY MADISON MARKET RAG & BONE RALPH LAUREN ROLEX THEORY TOM FORD TORY BURCH TRINA TURK VALENTINO
MARKET | 214.945.2571
VERONICA BEARD VINCE PARTIAL STORE LISTING
COMPLIMENTARY VALET PARKING, PERSONAL SHOPPING, CAR SERVICE AND WIFI
SMU LOOK FALL/WINTER 2021
DALLAS’ PREMIER