Textured Hair

It’s a Curls World

Delroy Davy, Afro Hair Specialist at Rush Hair believes all hairdressers should be able to rise to the challenge of working with textured hair.

Textured hair seems daunting to many hairdressers, however, once you know how to cut and style it, the opportunities are endless and it is a joy to work with. I believe all hairdressers should be educated about textured hair. It’s about being inclusive and it’s also a great addition to any skill set.

Here are some of the tips I offer to my students and fellow stylists that will help them achieve the most incredible results.

QUICK QUIZ

What shape is the curl pattern of type 4c hair?

A S-shaped

B Z-Shaped

C A mixture of S and Z

D Type 4c hair is totally straight @dellershair

“It’s about being inclusive and it’s also a great addition to any skill set”

1 DON’T OVERUSE HEATED APPLIANCES Heat can seriously damage hair and textured hair is more prone to breakage, so it is extremely important to limit the use of heated appliances. If you do use a hairdryer or straighteners, always use a heat-protection spray — this creates a barrier between the follicles and the appliance.

2CUT HAIR WHEN DRY While with many hair types its common to cut hair when it is damp, it’s much easier to cut textured hair when it's dry. If you cut it while wet, the chances are you’ll end up removing too much hair due to shrinkage and as a result, will end up with an uneven or disconnected cut. Cutting when dry and fully detangled gives a true view and results in a fantastic cut every time.

3CUT HAIR AS IT’S WORN Always cut hair in line with how the client wears it. For those who normally wear their hair straight, cut the hair when styled straight, and for those clients who wear their curls naturally, it’s best to cut when dry and in its naturally curly state.

4MAKE SURE YOUR SCISSORS ARE SHARP When it comes to textured hair, you simply cannot cut the hair with anything less than super-sharp scissors. Not only will this help define the cut and keep the shape of the look, sharp scissors will also prevent any snagging or damage to the hair.

Image credits: Avlon

5KNOW THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF TEXTURED HAIR These are the main types of curly hair. TYPE 3 – CURLY

3A: These curls are large, bouncy and loose. This curl pattern can be mostly tamed but too much fiddling with the hair can result in the hair becoming extremely frizzy. Use a spray-on leave-in conditioner to refresh these curls.

3B: These curls are slightly tighter than 3a — you could slide a pen neatly into one. Many clients fall between 3a and 3b. This curl type is also prone to frizz and is extremely dry. Apply gels that contain a humectant (an agent that attracts moisture from the air) on wet hair, that way you reduce frizz and create better-defined curls.

3C: These are tight corkscrew curls. These curls have beautiful volume but they can look dry so to give them a beautiful softness, try a sulphate-free shampoo. Deep conditioning the hair is also a must.

TYPE 4 — TIGHTLY CURLED

4A: These curls have a tight S pattern and a very slim width. It is very dense and has a lot of volume. The best way to keep this or any other type 4 hair moisturised is to use a moisturiser before a hair wash. This will also make it easier to detangle the hair.

4B: This hair has a Z-shaped curl pattern and is particularly prone to breakage— with this in mind, do not stretch this hair type while it's dry. Use moisturising conditioner to help make the hair more pliable. Make sure you detangle this type of afro hair by using a wide-tooth comb and a whole lot of water and conditioner.

4C: This hair type is a mixture of an S and a Z-shaped curl pattern. The curls are even more compact and experience about 75% shrinkage when wet. Keeping this hair type moisturised at all times is vital.