VOLUME 1
Vol. 1
January 2011
Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort Welcome to the Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort.
On the cover Itaru Maruyama in the half pipe. Photo courtesy of the Nozawa Onsen Ski School. Previous page The Kandahar course splits into an east and west course. Both are used for both local and international competitions with competitors ranging from children to professional skiiers.
Dosojin Festival The coming of age at Nozawa Onsen.
WELCOME Welcome to the first issue of Snow Inc. With a combination of snow, a camera, no internet connection and plenty of free time, I wanted to try my hand at putting together a monthly journal blog based from the Nozawa Onsen village and ski resort. I currently work at the Nozawa Onsen Ski School as part of the administrative staff. Whilst not a fantastic skiier or rider, I tend to enjoy skiing, snowboarding and anything that’s to do with the snow. From time to time I go out for lessons, guides and events. This publication is something of a small project that I’ve been wanting to do for some time. With other commitments and things to do, I do not expect this journal to be consistently or constantly published, however, I will endeavor to do my best. Through this publication, I will introduce you to the Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort, the village, a bit of its culture and a nearby point of interest. I will start by sketching out the resort, its scenery and recommended ski runs but rather than going through the entire resort in a single issue, I will be spreading it throughout multiple issues as well as covering other points of interests or things to do. For this issue, we will be looking at the Dosojin fire festival where the passage for men into adulthood kicks off with a fiery start.
Ryoma J. Ohira
The lonliest outpost
Let’s go where you want to go... Nozawa Onsen Ski School Back Country Tours
school@nozawaski.com
NOZAWA ONSEN
With 297 hectares of ski slopes, the Nozawa Onsen Ski Resort ranks as one of the largest ski resorts in Japan. Although catering largely to families, the resort is far from lacking challenging or exciting ski runs. With 100% natural powder snow, it’s rich ecological diversity and long history, it’s no wonder why people come to Nozawa Onsen time and time again.
A SNOW PARADISE Schneider and Kandahar from the south side of Hikage.
ENJOYING THE SCENERY The Rinkan Course, or the Forest Trail, is one of the first beginner ski runs. Weaving through the natural forest, the run provides plenty of photo opportunities as well as introducing beginner skiiers and snowboarders to the pleasures of the sport.
The Skyline course runs along one of the ridges of Mt. Kenashi. Accessible from nearby the Yamabiko gondola station, the full course runs for 3500m. The course branches off into different runs along the way including: Kamoshika, Tanuki, Grand Prix, Jumping, Usagi, Mukoubayashi and Hashiman. Ranging from low-intermediate to advanced, you can enjoy the uninterrupted panorama from one of Nozawa Onsen’s most picturesque courses.
LOCAL SECRETS The top of Karasawa, remains one of the resort’s best secret ski fields. Taking the first exit of Skyline to the Kamoshika course, you’re welcomed to your own, uninterrupted ski run. The combination of width and the lack of traffic, the run welcomes you whether you’re a powder hunter or enjoy carving yor way through the slopes.
DOSOJIN FIRE FESTIVAL
Built over two days, the shaden becomes the centre of the festivities.
The villagers gathering to enter to fray with their torches.
T
raditions around the world come and go as each new generation finds new values or interprets these rituals in their own way. The Japanese are well known for sticking to their traditions but there are few that are as energetic or ferocious as Nozawa Onsen’s coming of age festival, or as it is locally known, the Dosojin Fire Festival. Held on the 15th of January every year, the festival celebrates the coming of age for the young; the passing of the baton of responsibility to the next generation and the welcoming of the new heirs that are to carry on the legacy of the village. It’s an initiation where upon the elders pass on their flames to set alight the new generation’s passions and enthusiasm and to kick it off with one of the biggest bonfires.
The 25 year olds protecting the shaden hold onto ropes tied to the posts.
U
nlike in the West, the traditional Japanese counting of the age starts the first year as being one year old. Upon reaching the new year, the child reaches the age of two and then progresses onto three on their birthday. In essence, an extra two years is added on when counting their age. The Dosojin festival celebrates the coming of age for their 25 year old men by the old counting method. Three days before the festival, the men carry the pine trees that were felled in the fall down from the mountain, through the village and to the festival grounds. From there, the construction of the shrine, or shaden, commences using traditional methods. For two days and through the nights, the shrine is built and fireworks lit upon completion on the 15th. From there, they celebrate until the evening and prepare to fight for their rite of passage.
T
he Dosojin flame is held at a Shinto shrine on the mountain. The men elect their representative who is to ask the village elders for their flame. The elders test the young mens’ resolve and eventually relent to their request. Lighting a bundle of saplings, the men then carry it through the village to the festival grounds. Those who are coming of age are to protect the shaden that they had built while the male villagers relentlessly attack without any reservation to try and light the shrine all the while the 42 year old elders sit upon the shrine’s stage and taunt the flames. As bundles of sapling are set alight at a small bon fire and then thrust into the defenders position; it is by no means a gentle festival. The bon fire slowly makes its way to the shrine and the main even concludes when the bon fire reaches the shrine where upon the shrine is set alight and eventually collapses. Being one of the
largest fire festivals in Japan, it’s definitely something that is marked profoundly on the calendars for many locals and guests. Should you be looking for a unforgettable traditional Japanese festival to be part of your stories to tell friends when you get back, the Dosojin Fire Festival at Nozawa Onsen is definitely a must see.
Written on the tori are the names of all the new first born sons. To pray for their good health and prosperity, the tori are eventually burned at the climax of the festival.
The burning of the shaden.