gastronomé tasting the world - June 2024

Mexico City

a culinary capital of tradition and innovation

in this

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Mexico City a culinary capital of tradition and innovation

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From Dawn to Dusk a perfect day of breakfast, lunch, and dinner in Mexico City

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Chef Elena Gayvaras the dining room chronicles

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14 Churros a classic treat that will transport you to the streets of Mexico

Savor the Flavor gourmet Mexican ingredients for your kitchen

Mexico City

a culinary capital of tradition and innovation

Mexico City, the sprawling capital of Mexico, is a gastronomic paradise that effortlessly marries tradition with innovation. Its culinary scene, a melting pot of ancient practices and modern techniques, offers a rich and diverse experience that caters to every palate. From bustling street food stalls to high-end dining establishments, Mexico City’s food culture is a vibrant reflection of its history, diversity, and creativity.

Street food is the lifeblood of Mexico City’s culinary landscape. The city’s streets are alive with the sounds and smells of sizzling meats, fresh tortillas, and aromatic spices. At every corner, street vendors serve up a tantalizing array of dishes that showcase the rich flavors and ingredients of Mexican cuisine.

Tacos al Pastor, one of the city’s most iconic street foods, is a must-try. Originating from the Lebanese shawarma brought by immigrants in the early 20th century, tacos al pastor features marinated pork cooked on a vertical spit, similar to shawarma, but with a unique Mexican twist. The meat is thinly sliced and served on small corn tortillas, topped with fresh pineapple, onions, and cilantro. The combination of savory, sweet,

and tangy flavors makes it a favorite among locals and tourists alike.

Other popular street foods include tlacoyos, oval-shaped masa cakes filled with beans, cheese, or meats, and topped with nopales (cactus), cheese, and salsa. Esquites, a cup of corn kernels cooked with epazote, chili, and lime, offers a deliciously comforting snack. Quesadillas, which in Mexico City can be filled with a variety of ingredients such as huitlacoche (corn fungus), flor de calabaza (squash blossoms), and tinga (shredded chicken), provide a savory treat that highlights the versatility of Mexican cuisine.

The city’s markets are a treasure trove of culinary delights, offering everything from fresh produce to exotic meats and traditional sweets. Mercado de San Juan is renowned for its gourmet offerings, including imported cheeses, cured meats, and exotic proteins like crocodile, ostrich, and wild boar. The market is a haven for adventurous eaters and chefs seeking unique ingredients.

La Merced, one of the largest traditional markets in the city, is a sensory overload of colors, sounds, and smells. Vendors sell a wide array of

goods, from fresh fruits and vegetables to spices, candies, and handmade crafts. The market is also famous for its food stalls, where you can enjoy a hearty meal of barbacoa (slow-cooked lamb) or carnitas (braised pork).

Mercado Roma, a modern gourmet market, offers a different experience. Located in the trendy Roma neighborhood, it features food stalls run by some of the city’s top chefs. Here, traditional Mexican dishes are reimagined with contemporary twists, reflecting the city’s evolving culinary scene.

Mexico City’s fine dining scene has gained international acclaim, with several restaurants ranked among the best in the world. These establishments are at the forefront of culinary innovation, blending traditional Mexican ingredients with modern techniques to create unforgettable dining experiences.

Pujol, led by Chef Enrique Olvera, is a shining example of this fusion. The restaurant’s tasting menu takes diners on a journey through Mexican flavors, with dishes like mole madre, mole nuevo, a unique preparation featuring a 1,000-day-old mole sauce served alongside a freshly made version.The contrast of flavors and textures highlights the depth and complexity of Mexican cuisine.

Quintonil, helmed by Chef Jorge Vallejo, is another gem in Mexico City’s culinary crown. The restaurant focuses on sustainability and the use of local ingredients, presenting dishes that celebrate the richness of Mexican produce. Signature dishes like the crab tostada with lime, radish, and avocado, and the charred avocado tartare with escamoles (ant larvae) showcase the innovative spirit of Quintonil.

No exploration of Mexico City’s gastronomy is complete without delving into its beverage culture. The city offers a wide range of traditional and contemporary drinks that complement its diverse culinary offerings.

Pulque, a traditional alcoholic beverage made from the fermented sap of the agave plant, has a long history dating back to pre-Hispanic times. Once considered the drink of the gods, pulque has experienced a resurgence in popularity, with pulquerías (pulque bars) offering various flavors and blends. The slightly viscous, mildly alcoholic drink can be enjoyed plain or flavored with fruits like mango, guava, or pineapple.

For a stronger spirit, mezcal and tequila are the stars of Mexico’s distilled beverages. Made from agave, these spirits have distinct flavors that reflect their regions of origin and production methods. Mezcal, often enjoyed neat, has a smoky flavor derived from the traditional roasting of agave hearts in

underground pits. Tequila, smoother and often used in cocktails, is typically made from blue agave and is most famously produced in the state of Jalisco.

Non-alcoholic options are equally diverse and refreshing. Aguas frescas, fruitbased drinks made with water, sugar, and fresh fruits or flowers, are a staple in Mexico City. Popular flavors include horchata (rice and cinnamon), jamaica (hibiscus), and tamarindo (tamarind). Traditional hot beverages like atole, a warm corn-based drink, and champurrado, a choc

olate-based variation of atole, provide comfort during the cooler months.

Mexican culture is rich with festivals and holidays, each accompanied by traditional foods that enhance the celebratory spirit. Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) is one of the most important and widely celebrated festivals in Mexico City. During this time, families prepare altars adorned with pan de muerto, a sweet bread decorated with bone-like shapes, and calaveras de azúcar (sugar skulls) to honor deceased loved ones.

Christmas in Mexico City is marked by festive dishes like tamales, masa dough filled with meats, cheeses, or sweet fillings, wrapped in corn husks, and steamed. Bacalao (salted cod) is another holiday favorite, often prepared with tomatoes, olives, and capers. Rosca de Reyes, a ringshaped cake adorned with dried fruits, is enjoyed during the Epiphany, with a small figurine of baby Jesus hidden inside. The person who finds the figurine is tasked with hosting a party on Candlemas Day in February.

Mexico City’s culinary scene is constantly evolving, driven by a new generation of chefs who honor traditional techniques while embracing innovation. These chefs are not only redefining Mexican cuisine but also bringing global attention to the city’s gastronomic potential.

The city’s food culture is also becoming more inclusive and diverse, with an increasing number of vegetarian and vegan options available. Restaurants and food stalls are offering plant-based versions of traditional dishes, catering to the growing demand for sustainable and health-conscious dining options.

Moreover, the emphasis on locally sourced and sustainable ingredients is shaping the future of Mexico City’s gastronomy. Farmers’ markets and organic produce are gaining popularity, as chefs and consumers alike prioritize environmental sustainability and support for local communities.

Mexico City's gastronomy is a vibrant and dynamic reflection of its history, culture, and innovation. From the bustling street food stalls and traditional markets to the world-renowned fine dining establishments, the city offers a culinary journey that is both diverse and deeply rooted in tradition. As Mexico City continues to evolve and innovate, its culinary scene promises to captivate and inspire food lovers from around the world.

from dawn to dusk

a perfect day of breakfast, lunch, and dinner in Mexico City

Mexico City’s culinary scene is as vibrant and diverse as the city itself, offering delicious options for every meal of the day. Whether you’re in the mood for a traditional Mexican breakfast, a flavorful lunch, or an exquisite dinner, the city has something to satisfy every craving. Join us as we take you through a day in Mexico City, highlighting three standout restaurants for breakfast, lunch, and dinner that showcase the best of the city’s gastronomic delights.

Breakfast at Casa del Fuego

A culinary gem renowned for its bold flavors and innovative takes on traditional Mexican cuisine. The restaurant offers a warm, inviting atmosphere, enhanced by its open kitchen where guests can watch chefs masterfully prepare dishes. Specializing in fire-roasted meats and vegetables, Casa del Fuego delivers a dining experience that celebrates Mexico's rich culinary heritage with a modern twist.

Menu spotlight: Huevos Horneados

Lunch at Pujol

Helmed by Chef Enrique Olvera, is a culinary icon renowned for its innovative reinterpretation of traditional Mexican dishes. The restaurant offers a meticulously crafted tasting menu that highlights the rich and diverse flavors of Mexico, including the famous Mole Madre, Mole Nuevo. With its elegant ambiance and exceptional service, Pujol provides a dining experience that is both sophisticated and deeply rooted in Mexican culinary heritage

Menu spotlight: Enmoladas

Dinner at Ciena

A contemporary dining destination known for its elegant ambiance and sophisticated take on Mexican cuisine. With a focus on fresh, locally sourced ingredients, Ciena offers a seasonal menu that highlights the best of Mexican flavors and culinary techniques. The stylish decor and attentive service create a refined atmosphere, making Ciena a perfect spot for both casual dining and special occasions.

Menu spotlight: Shrimp Risotto

the dining room chronicles with

Chef Elena Gayvaras

"The Dining Room Chronicles" is our magazine series where we interview chefs and food creatives from around the world, exploring their visions for the perfect at-home dining experience. Each issue delves into the unique culinary styles, personal stories, and hosting tips from these gastronomic experts, offering readers inspiration and practical advice for their own dining events.

Elena Reygadas is the consummate host. Walk into Rosetta, her award-winning restaurant in Mexico City’s Roma neighborhood, and you’ll quickly understand that for Reygadas, the perfect dining experience demands not only innovative food — in her case, Italian with Mexican accents — but an intimate atmosphere and exquisite design details. Housed in a 19th-Century Beaux Arts mansion, those lucky enough to get a table are immediately transported to colonial Mexico. Diners are shrouded in greenery, surrounded by good company, and immersed in an environment featuring art and furniture that spans centuries.

Reygadas' commitment to creating an exceptional dining experience extends beyond her restaurant. When throwing dinner parties at home, the scene is equally joyous and the food sublime. She brings the same attention to detail and passion for hospitality to her private gatherings, ensuring that her guests feel welcomed and cherished.

In a recent interview with Gastronome, Reygadas shared her insights on various aspects of hosting. She discussed her preferences for assigned versus open seating, emphasizing how thoughtful seating arrangements can enhance the dining experience by fostering engaging conversations and connections among guests. Reygadas also highlighted the importance of shared plates, which encourage communal dining and a sense of togetherness.

Central to her philosophy is the art of la sobremesa — the Spanish tradition of post-meal reflection. This cherished custom involves lingering at the table long after the meal is over, enjoying plenty of drinking and conversations that last all night. For Reygadas, la sobremesa is an essential part of the dining experience, creating an atmosphere of warmth and camaraderie that leaves a lasting impression on her guests.

Whether at Rosetta or in her own home, Elena Reygadas masterfully blends culinary excellence, exquisite design, and heartfelt hospitality to create unforgettable dining experiences that celebrate the joy of food and the pleasure of good company.

What are the essential ingredients for a good dinner party?

Shared plates. I think it’s important to break the idea that everyone should have a dish for themselves. I really believe that the ultimate meaning of cooking is to generate community bonds. It is a vehicle for us to share with our beloved people — to build a time of sharing.

What's on your table?

My grandmother’s tablecloths (my favorite), plus a mix of vintage dinnerware and ceramics made by my talented friend Perla Valtierra . I usually get flowers from Alberto and Ramiro at Flores Cosmos , and my favorite candles made by Ramón Ramírez López and his family in Guanajuato.

Assigned or open seating?

Open. The dynamic should be relaxed and casual. There is no separation between my kitchen and dining area at home, so everything happens between the kitchen and the table. When I have people over for dinner, everyone gathers around the island next to the stove where we end up drinking and eating some bites while I finish dinner preparations. I feel it’s good for the kitchen and the table to be close because it feels intimate and easy. I try to do most of the cooking before guests arrive, but I like for them to be part of the setting — to feel like they’re helping to create the meal. When we finally sit down at the table, it happens naturally.

Wine or Mezcal?

It depends on the food I’m serving. But in general I think Mexican food is great with beer and the different agave distillates. I look for artisanal distillates that are produced with the most sustainable practices possible, respecting the cycles of nature. I confess that I also love serving non-alcoholic beverages with food. We recently made an amazing bread ferment, a Kvas, with some of the leftover bread from Rosetta's Bakery. I’m also fascinated by tepache, a drink native to Mexico that’s made by fermenting pineapple and mixing it with spices

Most overrated ingredient:

I think there is something marvelous in all the ingredients. You just have to know how to listen to them. Be like a medium who transmits their message. And always respect their seasonality.

Most underrated ingredient:

There are many wonderful ingredients in Mexico that aren’t yet sufficiently known, like the pixtle, the bone of the mamey fruit native to Mexico. Or the tequesquite, a mineral salt that has been used as seasoning in Mesoamerica for centuries.

And the sobremesa: worth the hype?

The sobremesa [the post-meal Spanish tradition of lingering at the table] is the best sign of a good meal. It means that everyone is comfortable — not too full! — and they want the dinner to go all night, long after dessert has been eaten. To me, food is a way of bringing people together and achieving this conviviality that’s not easily achieved otherwise. Sometimes you start a meal sitting next to someone you don’t know, but you have an amazing sobremesa and form a real bond. The art of a good sobremesa is in the details and the shared experience.

savor the flavor

gourmet Mexican ingredients for your

kitchen

Xili's Salsa Macha

Xilli’s Salsa Macha is a smoky, nutty sauce made with dried chilies, nuts, and seeds. It’s versatile and can be used as a condiment or cooking ingredient. Where to Buy: Xilli Official Website, MexGrocer

La Vencedora Dried Chiles Assortment

La Vencedora’s assortment of dried chiles includes ancho, guajillo, and pasilla peppers. These chiles are essential for making traditional Mexican sauces and dishes. Where to Buy: MexGrocer, La Tienda

Guelaguetza's Oaxacan Mole Negro

Guelaguetza’s Oaxacan Mole Negro is a rich, complex sauce made from a blend of chilies, chocolate, and spices. Perfect for creating authentic Mexican mole dishes. Where to Buy: Guelaguetza, Amazon

Villa de Patos offers a high-quality Mexican vanilla extract, known for its smooth and creamy flavor. Ideal for baking and desserts. Where to Buy: Villa de Patos, Amazon

Masiendas Heriloom Blue Corn Masa

Masienda’s heirloom blue corn masa harina is made from stone-ground blue corn, perfect for making authentic tortillas, tamales, and other Mexican dishes. Where to Buy: Masienda, Amazon

Ibarra's Mexican Chocolate Tablets

Ibarra’s Mexican chocolate tablets are perfect for making traditional Mexican hot chocolate. The chocolate is blended with cinnamon, giving it a unique and delicious flavor. Where to Buy: Amazon, Walmart

Villa de Patos Mexican Vanilla Extract

churros

a classic treat that will transport you to the streets of Mexico

ingredients

1 cup water

2 1/2 tablespoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

1 cup all-purpose flour

Oil for frying (such as vegetable or canola oil)

1/2 cup sugar, for coating

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, for coating

instructions

1. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine water, 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar, salt, and 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Bring the mixture to a boil.

2. Remove the saucepan from heat and stir in the flour until the mixture forms a ball.

3. Heat oil in a deep-fryer or large pot to 375°F (190°C).

4. Transfer the dough to a piping bag fitted with a large star tip.

5. Pipe strips of dough into the hot oil, cutting with scissors or a knife to your desired length.

6. Fry the churros until golden brown and crisp, about 2-3 minutes on each side.

7. Remove the churros from the oil using a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels.

8. In a shallow dish, mix 1/2 cup sugar with 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon.

9. Roll the fried churros in the cinnamon-sugar mixture until coated.

10. Serve the churros warm with chocolate sauce, caramel, or dulce de leche for dipping.

Ditch the hangover.