Where GuestBook San Diego 2011

where GUESTBOOK

SAN DIEGO

where GUESTBOOK

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Welcome to SAN DIEGO

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Palm Tree Pendant with Diamonds Various sizes available Matching Earrings available

Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold

SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley, 619-294-7811 • Horton Plaza, 619-702-7121 BOSTON: Natick Collection • Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center • Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria • Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center HAWAII: Oahu, Maui, Kauai, Big Island of Hawaii NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE: Pride of America

www.NaHoku.com

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•

1-800-260-3912

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600-070

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Find a perfect place to dine, and a perfect outfit to dine in. All in one place. How perfect is that?

Bloomingdale’s, JCPenney, Macy’s, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Barney’s New York CO-OP, Burberry, CH Carolina Herrera, Gucci, Henri Bendel, Hermés, HUGO BOSS Store, Jimmy Choo, Karen Millen, M Missoni, Tiffany & Co., Tory Burch, Tourneau, and 200 fine stores and restaurants.

Hwy 163 at Friars Road West Shopping Line® 619.688.9113

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S.D. ESSENCE 22 THE FOUR SEASONS OF EAST COUNTY PHOTO SERIES Meteorologist/photographer Steve Vanderburg captures the unexpected weather of San Diego’s wild east.

30 MY FAVORITE PLACE PERSONAL ESSAY Veteran journalist Mike Sager waxes nostalgic on his adopted hometown.

36 PURE ENERGY WEIRD SCIENCE The future of alternative energy research is growing here.

BY ANNAMARIA STEPHENS

4

MÚSICA DE TIJUANA From classical to electro-mariachi, five breakout acts prove there’s no defining the Tijuana sound.

BY DERRIK CHINN

40 Q&A AUTUMN REESER Catching up with San Diego-raised Reeser, Entourage star and one of Maxim’s most beautiful.

BY MAYA KROTH

42 THEY’RE CRAFTY 32 BORN HERE

48 LAS ESTRELLAS

LOCAL TRIVIA From WD-40 to Wikipedia, these indispensable details of modern life all have their roots in San Diego.

FURNITURE DESIGNERS Meet five buzzworthy locals whose handcrafted pieces are catching the attention of discerning collectors.

BY MAYA KROTH

BY ANNAMARIA STEPHENS

52 BACK TO THE FUTURE DINING TRENDS While some chefs go back to basics, using old-fashioned methods and recipes, others are pursuing technologically advanced “molecular” food. Can’t we all just get along?

BY MARIA C. HUNT

(COVER) DETAIL OF AN ORNATE GATE NEAR THE SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF ART, BALBOA PARK, CATHERINE LAU. (OPENING SPREAD) ASHOK SINHA; (THIS PAGE, LEFT) IAN WHITE, (RIGHT) STEVE VANDERBURG

CONTENTS

WHERE GUESTBOOK

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Mention ‘where guestbook’ and receive $100 off a $500 purchase NOT VALID WITH ANY OTHER GIFT CERTIFICATE OR DISCOUNT. ONE PER CUSTOMER. NOT GOOD FOR PURCHASES OF HEARTS ON FIRE, MARCO BICEGO AND WILLIAM HENRY LINES. NOT GOOD ON PURCHASES OF GIFT CARDS.

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HOTTEST BRANDS 5/27/11 4:36 PM 7/11/11 2:05 PM

contents

10 FIRST LOOK

must-see ATTRACTIONS Ten city-defining destinations: The order depends entirely on your interests.

58 NEIGHBORHOODS A GUIDE TO S.D.’S MOST VISITED AREAS San Diego comprises many communities, from the Gaslamp Quarter to La Jolla to the North Coast.

61 SPENDING TIME

SHOPPING

62 LOOK BOOK A photographic peek at the wares of S.D.’s top retailers.

64 RETAIL DETAILS The region’s major shopping destinations and a selection of local boutiques and galleries.

3 Chow TIME 7 dining A guide to the best restaurants in the city.

91 PLAY TIME arts & aTTRACTIONS Museums, theater, theme parks, nightclubs and more make San Diego a playground for kids and adults alike.

(l-r) istockphoto.com/Steve Goodwin, ALEX DEVEREAUX, adam hendershott

S.D. essentialS

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Nikki & Co. Fine Jewelers Since 1948

Located in the Heart of the Gaslamp

Antique Engagement Rings

562 5th Avenue, San Diego (619) 236-0870

NikkiFineJewelers.com

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Fine Swiss Watches

Estate and Antique Jewelry

We Buy, Sell, Trade and Consign

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where GUESTBOOK On the Web: whereSD.com publisher Jeff Levy EDITOR Maya Kroth ART DIRECTOR Bree Berri ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Nicole Bordges MARKETING DIRECTOR Audrey Nimura ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Heidi PRODUCTION ARTIST Ryan

Schwindt

Furuya

contributing writers Features Derrik

Chinn, Maria C. Hunt, Mike Sager, AnnaMaria Stephens COPY EDITOR Claire Caraska contributing photographers

Max Dolberg, John Dole, Amy K. Fellows, Bjarne G. Jensen, Catherine Lau, Rebecca Morquecho, Jay Reilly, Edwin Santiago, Brett Shoaf, Ashok Sinha, Steve Vanderburg, Ian White ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Joanna McLean, Laura Renner, Heather Howard, Sara Kemp, Mali Mochow, Laura Napolitano, Scott O’Hanlon CIRCULATION MANAGER Jordan Fraser PRoduction manager Dawn Kiko Cheng web manager Christina Xenos Administration

Leah Bigelow, Leanne Killian, Christine Noriega VICE PRESIDENT OF national sales Rick

Mollineaux 202.463.4550

MVP CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER Haines HONORARY President Ted

Wilkerson

Levy

3990 Old Town Ave., Suite B–200 San Diego, California 92110 Phone: 619.260.5599 Fax: 619.260.5598 EMAIL Advertising Nicole.Bordges@SoCalMedia.com Business JLevy@SoCalMedia.com Editorial Maya.Kroth@SoCalMedia.com Art Art@SoCalMedia.com Production Ads@SoCalMedia.com Circulation Jordan.Fraser@SoCalMedia.com Where GuestBook San Diego is published by Southern California Media Group under license from Morris Visitor Publications. Where GuestBook publishes editions for the following U.S. cities and regions: Amelia Island, Arizona, Atlanta, Baltimore, Beverly Hills, the Big Island, Bonita Springs, Boston, Boulder, Cambridge, Captiva Island, Charlotte, Chicago, Clearwater, Colorado Springs, Dallas, Denver, Fort Myers, Fort Worth, Greater Fort Lauderdale, Houston, Jacksonville, Kansas City, Kaua’i, Los Angeles, Marco Island, Maui, Memphis, Miami, Naples, Nashville, New Orleans, New York, O’ahu, Orange County, Orlando, Palm Beach, Philadelphia, Ponte Vedra Beach, Raleigh/Durham/Chapel Hill, St. Augustine, St. Petersburg, San Antonio, San Diego/La Jolla, San Francisco, Sanibel Island, Santa Barbara, Seattle/Eastside, Tacoma, Tampa, Tucson, Wailea, Washington, D.C., and Winston-Salem/Greensboro/High Point.

GET CONNECTED: Download the new Westfield App on Westfield.com

Copyright© 2011 by Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. This publication may not be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, in whole or in part, without the express prior written permission of the publisher. The publisher assumes no responsibility to any party for the content of any advertisement in this publication, including any errors and omissions therein. By placing an order for an advertisement, the advertiser agrees to indemnify the publisher against any claims relating to the advertisement.

Printed in the United States.

Circulation audited by Audit Bureau of Circulations.

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contRIBUTORS s s

mike sager

ss MARIA C. HUNT • Back to the Future, p. 52 Maria Hunt—aka The Bubbly Girl—believes pork should be its own food group, bubbly is meant for sipping anytime and the Sicilians got it right when they made ice cream a breakfast food. Based in Oakland, Calif., she’s a cultural food writer, mixologist, author, first level sommelier and hostess of TheBubblyGirl.com. “I was thrilled—and a little jealous— to learn about the inventive and delicious modernist cuisine happening now at places like Blanca, Nine-Ten, Blue Point and Harney Sushi,” says the former San Diego food writer and restaurant critic.

steve vanderburg

derrik chinn

• The Four Seasons of East County, p. 22 “All my life I’ve been fascinated by the weather,” says Julian-based Vanderburg, a National Weather Service meteorologist who photographed autumn leaves and snowy landscapes for this issue. “There’s another side of San Diego that few ever get to see, where the average rainfall exceeds that of Seattle and snow-fed streams lead to towering waterfalls.”

Vanderburg’s photos have been published in the San Diego UnionTribune and displayed at the San Diego Museum of Natural History.

• Las Estrellas, p. 48 In 2007, Cincinnati native Derrik Chinn did something not unthinkable but definitely abnormal. He moved to Tijuana. A former entertainment reporter for the San Diego Union-Tribune, he now operates Turista Libre, a day trip company aimed at destigmatizing the border city by ushering foreigners to sights usually reserved for locals: lucha libre matches, architectural oddities, artist studios, museums, breweries, swap meets, soccer games, waterparks and rollerskating rinks.

Chinn calls the city “a postmodern mecca of otherworldliness and humble innovation,” adding, “beneath the veil of corruption and violence, Tijuana mesmerizes.”

s s

(clockwise from top right) Miles Sager, k.j. stephens, ramona d’viola

• My Favorite Place, p. 30 Mike Sager is a bestselling author and award-winning reporter. He has been called “the Beat poet of American journalism.” A former Washington Post staffer under Bob Woodward, of Watergate fame, he worked closely with gonzo journalist Hunter S. Thompson during his years as a contributing editor to Rolling Stone. Sager is the author of three collections of non-fiction and one novel. He has served for more than a dozen years as a writer-at-large for Esquire. Many of his articles have been optioned for film. He lives with his son in La Jolla.

His column, By Mike Sager, runs fortnightly at SanDiego.com.

ANNAMARIA stephens

• Pure Energy, p. 36 • They’re Crafty, p. 42 Freelance writer AnnaMaria Stephens visited her alma mater to get the scoop on San Diego’s green scene for her story in this year’s GuestBook. “It was so cool to learn about UCSD’s sustainability initiatives,” she says. “The scientific research going on at that campus blew me away!” The design hound, who blogs for Apartment Therapy, also nailed down some of the most interesting furniture craftsmen (and women) in the city. “Seeing all their beautiful pieces made me wish my house were completely unfurnished,” she laughs.

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firstlook THE CiTy’S TOp 10 MUST-SEE aTTRaCTiOnS, in nO paRTiCULaR ORdER. fROM BaSEBaLL TO THE BEaCH, SHOppinG TO SHaMU, S.d.’S diVERSE aTTRiBUTES piqUE EVERy inTEREST.

Balboa Park The cultural heart of San Diego, Balboa Park is one of the largest urban parks in the country. The 1,200-acre patch of green at the city’s center, Balboa Park is home to no fewer than two dozen institutions celebrating the arts and humanities, including the San Diego Museum of Art, the San Diego Natural History Museum, the historic Old Globe Theatre and museums dedicated to nearly every topic imaginable, from photography and folk art to model trains, sports and aviation.

In addition to stellar sightseeing, the park also offers plenty of hike and bike trails, a Japanese teahouse and friendship garden, an IMAX theater and the Spreckels Organ, the world’s largest outdoor musical instrument. Pack a picnic and settle in for a free, family-friendly concert, held Sundays at 2 pm.

Balboa Park Visitors Center at the House of Hospitality, 1549 El Prado #1, 619.239.0512, balboapark.org

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Animal Attractions

There’s no doubt about it: San Diego has animal magnetism.

Begin the wildlife tour at the world-famous San Diego Zoo, whose creative, humane enclosures house many exotic species; the recent Elephant Odyssey recreates Pleistocene-era San Diego. Safari Park (formerly the Wild Animal Park) lets visitors get up-close and personal with beasts roaming through spacious tracts of open land.

SeaWorld, with its rides and shows, is part theme park, part aquatic zoo, and home to dolphins, penguins and one famous killer whale.

More sea creatures, including sharks and seahorses, are on display at the Birch Aquarium, perched on a bluff overlooking La Jolla.

San Diego Zoo, 2920 Zoo Drive, Balboa Park, 619.231.1515, sandiegozoo.org; Safari Park, 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, 619.231.1515, sdzsafaripark.org; SeaWorld, 500 Birch Aquarium, 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.FISH, aquarium.ucsd.edu

The Bays In 1602, Spanish explorer Sebastián Vizcaíno described San Diego Bay as “a port which must be the best to be found in all the South Sea.” The bay remains important not only commercially and militarily but also recreationally. Sightseeing and dinner cruises navigate the bay daily, departing from the Cruise Ship Terminal, where one can also catch the ferry to Coronado. Elsewhere along the Embarcadero, historic vessels including the aircraft carrier USS Midway and the 1863 barque Star of India have become floating museums; the area is also home to Seaport Village, a shopping and entertainment complex complete with a 19th-century carousel. On man-made Mission Bay­—part of 4,600-acre Mission Bay Park—kayaks, Jet Skis, sailboats and catamarans ply the calm water as bikers, joggers and skaters cruise along the bayside paths. San Diego Bay, 619.686.6200, thebigbay.com

(opening spread) EDWIN SANTIAGO; (this page, top, AND OPPOSITE) REBECCA Morquecho, (bottom) EDWIN SANTIAGO

SeaWorld Drive, Mission Bay, 800.25.SHAMU, seaworld.com;

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The Beaches

There’s a bit of everything along San Diego’s 70 miles of coastline, which stretches from the legendary surf break Trestles in the north to Border Field State Park in the south, where the rusty fence separating the U.S. from Mexico disappears into the sea. The wide, sandy swaths of La Jolla Shores and Coronado practically beg for sandcastlebuilding, while people-watching is mandatory along the raucous Mission Beach boardwalk. Serious surfers are drawn to Swami’s and Windansea, while curiosityseekers venture out to clothingoptional Blacks Beach to get acquainted

with

their

exhibitionist (note: nudity’s

inner not

“officially sanctioned” here—but we won’t tell if you don’t).

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World-Class Golf With more than 90 courses, it’s safe to say San Diego is more than a little enamored of the links. Still, it’s quality—not quantity—that counts; thankfully, some of the world’s most sought-after greens are located right here. From Mickelson to Woods, the Torrey Pines Golf Course has been played by nearly every boldfaced name in golf, for it’s not only been home to an annual PGA tour stop for nearly four decades but also hosted the 2008 U.S. Open Championship on its legendary oceanview South Course. In Carlsbad, the Park Hyatt Aviara boasts San Diego’s only Arnold Palmer signature course, and La Costa Resort has hosted numerous PGA tour events. For tee times, call San Diego Golf Reservations, 866.717.6552.

Spectator Sports a baseball team that gave rise to legends like Tony Gwynn and Dave Winfield, whose numbers are retired in the outfield at the team’s sophisticated downtown ballpark. (Don’t miss the statue of Hall-of-Famer Gwynn just beyond the outfield fence, where the longtime center fielder is immortalized in bronze.) Across town, on the gridiron at Qualcomm Stadium, the NFL’s San Diego Chargers have charged their way into the playoffs multiple times under the guidance of coach Norv Turner. Petco Park, 100 Park Blvd., downtown, 877.FRIAR.TIX, padres.com; Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 877.CHARGERS, chargers.com

(top) istockphoto.com/Andy Dean, (bottom) brett shoaf

Since 1969 San Diegans have supported their hometown Padres,

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Old Town San Diego’s earliest settlers and explorers nested here, from the Kumeyaay Indians 9,000 years ago to the Spanish missionaries that arrived in the 18th century. Billed as the “Birthplace of California,” Old Town features authentic historic structures within Old Town State Park, including the freshly restored Cosmopolitan Hotel and a lively entertainment complex, plus more contemporary diversions

along

surrounding

streets. Find fresh-made tortillas grilling at the many restaurants lining San Diego Avenue, while the nearby shops at Bazaar del Mundo offer colorful collectibles celebrating Mexican heritage. Other Old Town attractions include an enclave of preserved Victorian homes known as Heritage Park, the Mormon Battalion Historic Site, a Sheriff’s Museum, an early Catholic cemetery and an honestHouse Museum). San Diego Ave. at

Twiggs

St.,

oldtownsandiego.org

619.220.5422,

ian white

to-goodness haunted house (Whaley

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Coronado Accessible by ferry or via the graceful Coronado Bridge, this charming village across the bay from downtown San Diego is home to one of the city’s most famous sites: the Hotel del Coronado. Known to locals simply as “the Del,” the resort’s iconic red turrets can be seen from the sea—as well as on the silver screen (locals still tell stories about the time Marilyn Monroe, Jack Lemmon and Tony Curtis came here to film Some Like It Hot). But the rest of Coronado is worth exploring, too, either on foot or while bicycling along 15 miles of dedicated bike paths. Those that run up and down Silver Strand State Beach are especially scenic. Take a stroll down the wide, treelined boulevard running through the center of town, which is defined by quaint mom-and-pop shops, sidewalk cafés and an array of remarkable early 20th-century residential architecture, ranging in style from English Tudor to Craftsman to Spanish Colonial. Coronado Visitor Center, 1100 Orange Ave.,

Del Mar Racetrack Celebrities have long flocked to the place “where the surf meets the turf” to bet the ponies and flaunt haute headgear. Founded in 1937 by Bing Crosby, the Del Mar Racetrack attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors during racing season for events including the $1 Million Pacific Classic, as well as a popular post-race concert series on Friday evenings. The track was also among the first in the country to install the safer, more technologically advanced Polytrack surface. Still, for all its modern accoutrements, Del Mar retains its old-fashioned charm.

Racing season runs annually from mid-July to early September. 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1141, delmarracing.com

(top) ashok sinha, (bottom) brett shoaf, (opposite) edwin santiago

619.437.8788, coronadovisitorcenter.com

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Gaslamp Quarter Past and present collide in this 16-square-block

area

full

of

historic architecture and bustling nightlife. An erstwhile red-light district known as the Stingaree, the Gaslamp Quarter was also the one-time stomping ground of Wild West lawman Wyatt Earp. These days, Victorian-era outlaws have been replaced by 21st-century funseekers, who swarm the boutiques and galleries of Fifth Avenue by day and spill off the sidewalks by night in all their evening finery. With more than 125 restaurants, bars, nightclubs and cafés in the neighborhood, and the ballpark and Convention Center just steps away, the Gaslamp is this beach town’s undisputed urban center. Fourth, Fifth and Sixth avenues between Broadway and Harbor Drive, 619.233.5227, gaslamp.org

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For the first time ever, Bell & Ross is introducing a pocket watch to their collection: the PW1, also known as Pocket Watch 1. This watch is an elegant interpretation of the first timepieces that were used in the early 1900’s by the military. The arrival of the first airplanes and the beginnings of modern aeronautics necessitated the development of pilot watches that were both functional and legible during flight. This led to a turning point in the history of timepieces.

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AVIATION BR 03-92 Automatic V I N TA G E BR 126 Chronograph Tourneau 7007 Friar’s Road San Diego CA 92108 · (619) 296 8463 | Westime 1227 Prospect Street, La Jolla · CA 92037 (858) 459-2222 Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 . information@bellrossusa.com . e-Boutique: www.bellross.com

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People who move to San Diego seldom say they miss the weather back home, but once in a while nostalgia hits. “I miss the seasons,” they lament to friends. A trip back east may be in order—to eastern San Diego County, that is, whose vast, scenic landscapes include mountains, rivers, forests and deserts where one can actually experience real seasons.

Julian-based meteorologist/ photographer Steve VanderbUrg documents them all, from the first spring wildflowers and majestic waterfalls to autumn leaves that almost rival New England and mountain peaks that get snow— yes, snow—in wintertime.

Four Seasons the

of east county photography by steve vanderburg

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OPENING SPREAD: winter Snow blankets the trees near the erstwhile gold-mining town of julian, california, located just over an hour’s drive east of san diego’s sun-kissed beaches.

THIS PAGE: Springtime brings wildflowers to the floor of anza-borrego state park, the largest state park in california. here, an Ocotillo plant, also called desert coral, shows off its flowers (top), while early daffodils bloom after a long winter’s slumber (above, left). these california golden poppies (above, right) were found thriving in a rugged canyon near poway that had been scorched by wildfires the autumn before, demonstrating nature’s remarkable talent for renewal. OPPOSITE: leaning trees atop the summit of volcan mountain, a 15-mile-long ridge that rises 5,000 feet above the backcountry.

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opposite: a summer sunset viewed through live oaks that line the trails within the Santa Ysabel Open Space Preserve near Julian.

THIS page, right: cedar creek falls, one of several waterfalls to be found out east; below: Golden Grass Blades on Volcan Mountain.

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This page, top left: reeds sway in the fall breeze at frog pond, near julian. locals keep its precise location a closely guarded secret; top right: fall in julian means fresh apples, and the town is famous for its pies. pick-your-own orchards are a popular destination for daytripping san diegans. Above: autumn winds bend a tree atop the summit of Volcan Mountain. opposite: Wild turkeys walk among the fallen leaves of colorful Maples in Pine Hills, just outside julian.

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Photo credit gotham book 5.5/9pt

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M

y favorite place in San Diego—aside from the hammock on the roof directly above my office chair, the coordinates to which are not for public consumption—is a butt-width of territory along a concrete sea wall beside the Mission Beach Boardwalk, just across the parking lot from the Giant Dipper Roller Coaster at Belmont Park—a charming antique death trap anchoring the requisite cheesy seaside arcade, all of it overhung most days by a smiling yellow sun in a cloudless, powder blue sky.

I hop up and straddle the wall. Sometimes I face north, sometimes south.

At one elbow: the white sand beach, the waves, the limitless Pacific—my thoughts have far to travel. At the other is the passing show, humanity in all its homely variation called back to mother ocean: runners and strollers, tourists and homeboys, beach bums (literally, the coastal homeless), a family on a convoy of rented bikes, off-duty marines with their visiting honeys, Europeans in funny bathing suits, Japanese channeling SoCal surfer style, talky coeds scuffling on sandals toward happy hour, lanky boys on skateboards, and of course the usual assortment of off-beat habitués … a fun list to contemplate describing but too lengthy for this space, although the guy who in-line skates wearing nothing but a thong with one of those small American flags sticking out of his butt-crack is a definite must-see, as is the old guy who skates in astonishing and graceful slow motion, as is the NBA Basketball Hall of Famer Bill Walton, a seven-foot man sporting an overlarge toothy smile who can sometimes be encountered riding his impossibly tall, custom-built bicycle.

You get the feeling you’re at a crossroads of some sort, Times Square meets Venice Beach meets the Côte d’Azur; CHiPs meets Jersey Shore meets … Men in Black.

I know when people write about San Diego, they usually go on about all the touristy things to do. It is true, there are some really good restaurants these days in the Gaslamp Quarter, Bankers Hill, North Park, La Jolla, Bird Rock—it used to be you’d forgotten what you’d eaten by the time the check came; that is no longer the case. (For me the greatest eating in town may well be found along Convoy Street in Clairemont, a collection of reasonably priced Asian restaurants of all stripes, inauspiciously arranged within a collection of nondescript strip malls.) The San Diego Zoo is the best anywhere.

Use the tram. Go and visit the great apes. Hang around long enough and you’ll see: they enjoy messing with the humans’ minds. One old ape likes to sit with his back to the window. A younger male will sometimes charge and beat his chest, at once scaring and delighting onlookers. You get the feeling that they have show times listed on a chart somewhere back stage in their personal habitats.

SeaWorld is also a must-see, though I’d advise staying out of the splash zone unless it’s really hot. When I first moved to town nearly 15 years ago, my college roommate and his entire brood were the first to visit. (Relocate to San Diego, and you, too, will discover the joys of running a bed and

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breakfast. It will remain a permanent condition … until you find the name of a good hotel to recommend—there are zillions, and some great rental accommodations too.) In his simple dentist-speak, my dear Sully perfectly summed up costal San Diego: The sun is warm and the air is cool. Which means you can fry and shiver all on the same day. So be forewarned: If you do get splashed by Shamu, make sure to stay out of the shade. Blue lips on a pink sunburned face slathered with cream is not the look fashionable natives are going for this season.

By all means take one of the cruises around the bay—if it’s whale-watching season, do that. Trust me, the sight of a whale sounding will make you feel like a little kid again. If you’re lucky, you’ll have dolphins playing in the bow wake. If there is a phenomenon in nature that speaks more to the existence of pure joy, these mammals seem to express it—they even appear to be smiling. (The Navy ships in the bay are equally awe-inspiring, though they speak perhaps to the existence of an entirely different sort of natural expression, not nearly so benign.) If you have a few hours to kill, drive straight east on Interstate 8 until you get to Imperial Sand Dunes. It’s the closest I’ve come in this country of ours to experiencing Lawrence of Arabia. Likewise, make the drive to Julian or even Palm Springs—big sky, boulders, high desert, craggy mountains. There’s stuff to do at all these destinations, but to me the real enjoyment is the drive, the countryside, the unencumbered space, mother nature’s awesome sense of design.

Beyond that, the best advice I can give as you plan your stay in my town is to make a resolution to spend at least part of your time doing something that helps you reach a state of calm. My 16-year-old used to use the word “chillax,” an amalgamation of chill and relax. That’s it exactly. Find a place that soothes you—the beach at Windansea or Law Street or Blacks, one of the trails at Torrey Pines State Park, or one of the many bike paths around town—and go there with the express purpose of just taking your time to be. As modern folks, I think we tend to have a problem with overachieving, even in our off time. We have to run here and there. We need to buy this and that. We have to make sure we see every one of the 16 churches and 42 museums in any given town. How many of you out there have returned from a family vacation exhausted from the sheer effort? And how much of it do you even remember?

After nearly 40 years of traveling, I think I’ve discovered one thing: It may be best to do less instead of more. Try to find a spot that speaks to the essence of the place you’re visiting. Instead of giving it a look over, sample it more deeply. Get in touch with yourself in this foreign locale. Feel what it’s like to be you in a different space, one that calms and amuses you ... like my spot on the sea wall, across from the roller coaster at Belmont Park.

The first entry in Yelp advises that Belmont Park is “pretty lame.” I think they missed the point. Twenty-some miles from the Mexican border, hard against the Pacific, the sun is warm and the air is cool. Life feels copacetic.

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MY FAVORITE PLACE AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE WRITER, AUTHOR AND LA JOLLAN MIKE SAGER REFLECTS ON HIS ADOPTED HOMETOWN PHOTOGRAPHY BY MAX DOLBERG

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BORN HERE UNLIKE L.A. OR ATHENS, SAN DIEGO CANNOT CLAIM TO BE THE HOME OF HOLLYWOOD OR THE BIRTHPLACE OF DEMOCRACY, BUT THE CITY HAS MADE SOME FORMIDABLE—AND QUIRKY—HISTORICAL CONTRIBUTIONS OF ITS OWN. HEREWITH, A FEW THINGS IT’S TOUGH TO IMAGINE MODERN LIFE WITHOUT, ALL OF WHICH HAVE THEIR ROOTS IN SAN DIEGO.

BY MAYA KROTH

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If you’ve ever greased a stubborn joint, sent a text message, read to your kids, researched something online or enjoyed a certain world-famous salad, you probably owe a local visionary a thank you. You’re welcome. wd-40

cell phones It’s probably an exaggeration to say that cell phones wouldn’t exist if not for Qualcomm, a San Diego-based wireless technology company. But it’s no joke that Qualcomm did invent Code Division Multiple Access, or CDMA. Used by more than 564 million subscribers worldwide, CDMA is one of two dominant mobile phone technologies (the other is called GSM). Basically, if you use a Verizon or Sprint phone in North America or Asia, you probably have Qualcomm to thank every time you dial. The company, headquartered in Mission Valley, also holds key patents on another

widely adopted 3G technology and does classified work for the U.S. government, among its many other projects.

Qualcomm’s name is plastered on nearby Jack Murphy Stadium, where the San Diego Chargers play their home games, and the company’s founder, Dr. Irwin Jacobs, is one of the city’s most active philanthropists.

the cat in the hat “The sun did not shine. It was too wet to play. So we sat in the house all that cold, cold, wet day.”

For countless children the world over, these were the first full sentences they read all by themselves, and they were written right here in San Diego (well, La Jolla, to be precise). Perhaps the most famous title by one of the area’s most famous residents, The Cat in the Hat was first published in 1957 and continues to appear on the bestseller’s list more than a halfcentury later.

The book’s Pulitzer Prize-winning author, Theodor Geisel (aka Dr. Seuss) first moved here in 1948, and he wrote some of his most beloved tales—including How the Grinch Stole Christmas! and Horton Hears a Who!—from his Mount Soledad home.

Geisel was invited to write The Cat in the Hat by his friend William Spaulding of Houghton Mifflin, who’d read an article in Life magazine in which writer John Hersey argued that children’s literacy was falling because those old Dick and Jane readers were just too boring. Hersey suggested Dr. Seuss write something to replace it, and Spaulding agreed. He supplied Geisel with a list of first-grade-level vocabulary words; The Cat in the Hat uses 223 words from that original list plus 13 additional ones.

A lifelong supporter of literacy, Geisel was honored posthumously by the University of California, San Diego, which renamed its University Library after him in 1995. Nearby is a life-size bronze sculpture of Geisel with a nearly eight-foot-tall Cat towering over him; the writer is also immortalized on his own U.S. Postal Service stamp.

all cat in the hat images are TM & (C) 1957 Dr. Seuss Enterprises, L.P. All Rights Reserved. used by permission.

You know your company has hit the big time when it’s the subject of a viral email. Such is the case with WD-40, the miracle household product that can, according to one well-circulated online report, do anything from lubricate a stubborn zipper to keep pigeons off your balcony (apparently, they hate the smell).

It dates back to 1953, when three staffers at Rocket Chemical Company, working from a small San Diego lab, set out to create a line of rust-prevention solvents and degreasers for use in the aerospace industry. On the 40th attempt, they got the formula right—hence the name (the “WD” stands for “Water Displacement”).

Realizing its value for home use, the company brought WD-40 to store shelves five years later, and by 1993 it was found to be in four out of five American households, with sales reaching one million cans each week. Over the years, customers have reported a number of alternate uses for the product, many of them surprising. Consider the bus driver in Asia, for example, who used WD-40 to remove a python that had coiled itself around the bus’s undercarriage, or the police officers who used it to dislodge a naked burglar that had become trapped in an air conditioning vent.

Still headquartered in San Diego, the company lists on its website more than 2,000 documented uses for WD-40. But the recipe? That’s still a secret.

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wikipedia Ask any group of high school students what they would do if Wikipedia didn’t exist, and watch the color drain from their faces. Though their parents and teachers might cringe at the thought of the errors and inaccuracies that would surely plague a user-generated online encyclopedia, there’s no question the site is a runaway success. It’s now the fifth most-visited site on the Internet, and has even been shown to be almost as accurate as the Encyclopedia Britannica in a study by the journal Nature. And it all started here in San Diego back in the early 2000s, when founder Jimmy Wales and academician Larry Sanger reportedly came up with the idea over dinner in Pacific Beach. Their company, then called Nupedia, soon evolved into the juggernaut we know today, and although Wales moved the operation to St. Petersburg, Fla., in 2002 and later to San Francisco, San Diego—and its teenagers—will always cherish our town’s role in its inception.

the caesar salad What is it about olive oil, vinegar, mustard, crushed garlic and egg yolk that becomes so magical when drizzled over whole hearts of romaine lettuce and topped with shaved Parmesan cheese, baked garlic croutons and fresh cracked black pepper?

Certainly Cesar Cardini couldn’t have anticipated that his dish—reportedly thrown together from scraps during a particularly busy Fourth of July at his Tijuana restaurant—would go on to join the canon of the world’s great salads, being spotted on menus as far away as Tokyo and Tasmania. Though the salad’s origins are debated, culinary historians generally agree that it has its roots in 1920s-era Tijuana, where Caesar’s Restaurant still stands near the corner of Fifth Street and Avenida Revolución, recently reopened after an extensive renovation.

Befitting its storied history, the restaurant’s décor is classic, with mahogany wainscoting and checkerboard flooring and sepia-toned photographs on the walls. The salad recipe is original, too, and waiters in bowties still prepare it tableside, just as they did nearly 90 years ago.

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pure energy Going green is good for the earth, and it’s also helping kick-start California’s economy, especially in San Diego, which has emerged as a global leader in clean-energy research.

The groundbreaking technologies being developed here range from novel ways of harnessing the sun to powering cars and jets with pond scum.

istockphoto.com/Steve Goodwin

The future of alternative energy is growing in San Diego research labs by Annamaria stephens

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this page, top: with funding from the u.s. department of energy, UCSD nanoengineering professor shirley meng is working to build a better electric car battery. above: Genetic engineer dr. stephen mayfield is developing an algae-derived biofuel that can power cars and jets. opposite, top: UCSD produces its own electricity thanks to high-efficiency sun-tracking solar panels mounted on its East Campus Energy Complex.

Bottom: solar researcher jan kleissl co-directs the california solar energy collaborative.

There’s plenty of incentive to make all this research happen. A steady influx of state and federal funding is directed at sustainability-based research, while venture capitalists champion green technologies as a savvy investment. And just to be sure the innovation stays on track, Gov. Jerry Brown recently signed a law mandating that California get a third of its electricity from renewable sources by 2020.

San Diego Gas & Electric (SDG&E), owned by locally headquartered Fortune 500 company Sempra Energy, derived 11.9 percent of its power from renewable sources in 2010, more than half of that from wind.

A typical turbine can generate 2.5 megawatts, enough to power about 1,625 homes. The utility has several massive wind-farm projects in development, in desert and mountain regions from eastern San Diego to northern Baja California.

In Point Loma, the city recently broke ground on the $45 million Trident BioFuels Energy facility. The plan is to recover excess methane from sewage treatment plants and turn it into natural gas that will be injected directly into the utility’s pipelines.

Among the first customers for this recycled wastewater gas is the University of California, San Diego. The La Jolla campus, which is installing a 2.8-megawatt fuel cell to transform the chemical fuel into electricity, is an epicenter for cutting-edge environmental education and research, not just in San Diego, but worldwide.

“We’ve made sustainability a top educational and operational priority, which has transformed the campus into a ‘living laboratory’ of green solutions,” explains Rex Graham, director of communications for UCSD’s Campus Sustainability Initiatives. “UCSD was basically founded by a group of researchers from the Scripps Institution of Oceanography, one of the preeminent environmental research organizations in the world.”

It was SIO’s Charles David Keeling who first measured the ongoing change in concentration of carbon dioxide in the earth’s atmosphere. His research, which he began in 1958, showed a steady and undeniable upward creep. Keeling’s curve has become an icon of global-warming science, and played a starring role in Al Gore’s Oscar-winning An Inconvenient Truth.

With such a legacy, the occasional inconvenience is a small price to pay for UCSD’s efforts, which range from composting cafeteria food to managing 1.2 megawatts of photovoltaic production, which will soon be bumped up an additional megawatt.

UCSD is collaborating with three outside companies to optimize its micro-grid, which lets the city-size campus—attached to a single meter—monitor exactly how its power is produced and used. Veridity Energy, Power Analytics and OSIsoft are vying to create an extremely sophisticated, software-run master controller for the school’s micro-grid, a virtual power plant of sorts.

That’s just one example of the myriad eco-initiatives at the campus, which has five LEED-certified projects already and two-dozen more in the works. The school also has added scores of green majors and minors in departments from biology to urban planning. But it’s in the university’s research labs where the most exhilarating progress is being made.

Take solar power, a natural fit for sunny San Diego.

UCSD has become a hub for the state’s booming solar sector. The city already leads California in home solar systems, with nearly 25 megawatts in installed residential solar power (enough to power about 6,200 homes), compared to 15 megawatts in second-place Los Angeles. But solar power has its limitations, which UCSD is working to solve.

A traditional photovoltaic panel can only convert about 15 percent of solar irradiation to energy. UCSD is testing a new type of panel that should double efficiency. Designed by French semiconductor company Soitec, the panel contains lenses shaped like fly eyes that track the sun and magnify light onto a layered chip, which absorbs different wavelengths. SDG&E just signed a contract with Soitech to produce 150 megawatts in nearby Imperial County (enough for nearly 60,000 homes), and Soitech has plans to build a $200 million manufacturing plant in San Diego.

A new field called solar meteorology is poised to ensure that the growing number of solar-power systems are successfully integrated into the electric grid. The problem with solar energy is its unpredictability—a lingering cloud cover can disrupt power production, for instance.

“If you go out in the sun wearing a black shirt, you become very warm, whereas you stay cool if it’s cloudy,” explains UCSD environmental engineering professor Jan Kleissl. “Solar power production responds the same way.”

Kleissl, co-director of the California Solar Energy Collaborative, is fine-tuning a promising method of solar forecasting that continuously and automatically assesses the upcoming sunshine situation, allowing utilities to adjust energy production or storage on the fly.

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Complementary to any grid is energy storage, something UCSD nanoengineering professor Shirley Meng is exploring in her labs. “We focus on the materials used in high-energy-density batteries, particularly those used in electric cars,” Meng says, adding that most of the research is funded by the U.S. Department of Energy.

Currently, electric cars like the Nissan Leaf get about 100 miles to the charge. Meng hopes to triple that.

She’s also partnered with General Atomics to develop large-scale batteries that enable low-cost energy storage for grids powered by solar or wind. “When the weather is not cooperating, there will be a way to stabilize the grid,” she explains.

Another promising source of renewable energy—one that is quite literally green—is algae biofuel. Yes, algae, the stuff that grows on the side of aquariums. Genetic engineer Dr. Stephen Mayfield directs UCSD’s San Diego Center

for Algae Biotechnology and is a founder of local biotech firm Sapphire Energy—one of many trying to effectively tap this remarkable single-celled plant organism.

“Fossil fuel is 300 million years of stored-up algae if you’re talking about petroleum, or several hundred million years of higher plants if you’re talking about coal,” says Mayfield.

“We’re not trying to exactly duplicate petroleum.

We’re trying to get the oils out of algae, and extract those and turn them into gasoline, which we can [already] do,” he points out. Indeed, successful test drives of cars using 100% algae biofuel have already taken place.

Mayfield adds, with his optimism evident: “The challenge is, can we do that on a big-enough scale and cheaply enough to compete with petroleum?”

It’s a question—like so many others—that might find its answer right here in San Diego.

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Q&A

Autumn Reeser Since going Hollywood, the actress has stolen scenes from the likes of Michael Chiklis and Jeremy Piven. Now she reflects on where it all started. by maya kroth

You actually started your acting career in San Diego, right?

I was involved with Christian Youth Theater and started there when I was seven in a production called An Afternoon with Mother Goose.

My last production was around the time I was 17; it may have been The Wind in the Willows. I performed with them once or a twice year for my whole childhood.

How did you decide to make the leap to Hollywood?

When it was time to apply to colleges I knew I wanted to be an actress, so I applied to UCLA. They were starting a new musical theater department, and I knew that was something I wanted to pursue—acting, dance and voice.

That was the only school that I applied to, because I knew I wanted to be in Los Angeles, and if I hadn’t gotten in I was going to move up there, work as a waitress and go to community college.

You recently made the decision to go back to school.

I did, yeah, I’m working on finishing my degree. I left junior year to start working professionally, and I went back a couple years after that to finish some more classes, but I’ve been working too steadily since then to make it back. A lot more classes are now available online, so I was able to work full-time on a television series and work toward completing my degree at the same time. It was intense.

What’s been your favorite course?

History of Musical Theater was probably one of my favorite classes. I was watching all these great old musicals and clips of Ethel Merman. I also took a class called Detective Fiction that I really liked.

We read things like The Woman in White and The Maltese Falcon. I like that time period—Los Angeles in the ‘20s—and that noirish creative expression, too.

You worked on two shows that I watched religiously: The O.C. and Entourage. Which set had more drama?

zen yogurt spot and pizza place in Carlsbad. That’s a big childhood memory for me. I’ve been going to those places since I was five years old. I grew up at the beach. My dad surfs, so my summer memories are of camping up and down the California coastline and hanging out at the beaches of North County.

A lot of people who aren’t from Southern California think L.A. and San Diego are basically the same thing. How would you describe the difference?

How often do you make it back to San Diego?

I think San Diego is a much more laid-back place. In L.A., everyone is striving to get ahead and there’s a lot of intense energy. In San Diego, people are trying to enjoy themselves more. They make the time to spend at the beach and to spend with their friends. There’s a more leisurely pace of life in San Diego. I think that’s the major difference.

I try to go once a month or every other month.

If you weren’t acting...

There were a lot more teenagers on The O.C. You get teenagers, you’re usually gonna get drama. I probably shouldn’t generalize like that, but I had to pick one.

What are some of your favorite things to do when you’re in town?

I see my girlfriends and I see my parents. We’ll take the kids to the beach or just hang out in the backyard. I go to my favorite fro-

And had an unlimited income?

Can we add that part?

Sure.

I’d love to renovate a country house and be a painter. Have some cows and horses, like a little farm.

That would be awesome.

adam hendershott

B

y now, TV audiences are familiar with Autumn Reeser’s high cheekbones and scene-stealing supporting roles on cult shows like the evening teen soap The O.C. and HBO’s Entourage, where she played Lizzie Grant, the ambitious talent agent who nearly unraveled Ari Gold’s career. Recently seen in ABC’s crimefighting superhero comedy No Ordinary Family, the actress grew up in San Diego’s North County before following her dreams to Tinseltown, where she now lives with husband Jesse Warren and their newest addition, son Finn. There’s been little downtime for Reeser, once ranked the 58th most beautiful woman in the world by Maxim magazine.

This year we’ll be seeing her in the Antonio Banderas film The Big Bang as well as in the Miley Cyrus spy comedy So Undercover, with her Entourage co-star Jeremy Piven. But it was a local production that first made her want to be an actress.

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(OPPOSITE) ALEX DEVEREAUX

“I wanted to make a piece of furniture that could bring the outdoors in,” says Smith of his “Treeture” chair. “Its legs spread out like roots with the armrests growing like branches.”

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THEY’RE

CRAFTY Call it a backlash against Ikea and its mass-produced ilk.

Craft is in again. All over San Diego, furniture designers are coming out of the woodwork, so to speak, intent on creating unique pieces that look exquisite and last beyond a lifetime.

After all, family heirlooms don’t come in a flat-packed box.

BY ANNAMARIA STEPHENS

San Diego’s furniture design scene first flourished during the great American craft resurgence of the ‘60s and ‘70s, when local woodworkers like Jack Rogers Hopkins and Larry Hunter had their heyday. In 1968, the two launched a fledgling studio furniture curriculum at San Diego State University. Now run by internationally acclaimed artist Wendy Maruyama, SDSU’s program attracts top talent.

“I strive to engender in the students an appreciation of craft and material and process,” says Maruyama. “At the same time, I want them to think of furniture beyond just function or even ‘design’ for that matter, and encourage them to view their works as narratives, as well as the exploration or even exploitation of materials and techniques.”

SDSU isn’t the only option for would-be craftspeople. Palomar College also offers classes in cabinetry and woodworking, and two local architecture schools have turned out their share of cross-disciplinary designers.

Furniture can be just as emotive as painting or sculpture, and like art, it’s highly collectible. One of Maruyama’s postmodern Mickey Macintosh chairs, which went for $1,000 apiece in the early ‘80s, recently fetched $18,000.

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We’ve rounded up a few of our favorite San Diego furniture designers, from mid-career artists to new kids on the chopping block.

AARON SMITH “My goal is to emphasize the balance between organic and elegant,” says Aaron Smith. “How do you bring the landscape indoors and make it fit?”

Smith’s sensuously tactile furniture (pictured at left) would work as perfectly in an ultra-contemporary loft as it would in a chic cabin getaway. He adds unexpected touches, like welded steel legs, to each one-off wood-slab piece, which imbues his naturalistic style with a modern edge.

“It’s nothing like the ‘70s version of a redwood table that’s thick and ugly and heavily lacquered,” says Smith, who learned woodworking from his father, a cabinetmaker. “My furniture is sculptural, but I don’t consider functionality an afterthought.”

Smith, who recently exhibited in New York as part of an Architectural Digest show, finishes each piece with several coatings of hand-rubbed oil.

“That’s what brings out the depth, and the grain, and the character of the wood.” aaronsmithwoodworking.com

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JENNIFER ANDERSON As a little kid obsessed with building blocks, Jennifer Anderson was pretty sure she wanted to become an architect. Then she discovered furniture design.

“You interact with furniture in a different way than you interact with architecture,” she explains.” I think it’s that smaller scale, that intimacy, where your body physically interacts with furniture.”

After earning a degree in environmental design and following up with classes in furniture fabrication, Anderson enrolled in SDSU’s graduate program, where she studied under Wendy Maruyama.

“I needed to get a little more depth and concept into my work,” she says. “I definitely found it there.”

Anderson’s Material Series: Mud—in which she recreated classic chairs like the Eames LCW and Wegner Wishbone in steel and cracked, ancient-looking mud—landed the young designer national notice.

Her work, carried at Twentieth in L.A., continues to be clever and thought-provoking, like a classic table that turns unexpectedly topographical at one end. jenniferandersonstudio.com

“Chairs are anthropomorphic: they have this animal/ human quality, with legs and arms and a seat. They reference us and we reference them,” says Anderson of this piece, part of her Drove chair series.

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MIKI IWASAKI “In Japanese, my name means ‘future tree,’” marvels Miki Iwasaki. “It’s a strange coincidence that my parents picked it.”

Iwasaki studied architecture at Harvard but spends far more time in his woodshop than tooling around on AutoCAD. “Architecture projects are really slow and sometimes they never get built,” he says. “Building furniture is a way to immediately express my design drive—it’s an itch I always have.”

Iwasaki crafts pieces that feel modern yet timeless, like his “Stripe Table,” a stunner of mixed domestic hardwoods with bamboo and eco-resin inlays, available at Little Italy’s Mixture.

Though he’s worked with welded steel and plastics, Iwasaki—true to his name—prefers wood.

“It’s an easily attainable and accessible material to work with,” he says. “But it’s almost impossible to perfect.” mi-workshop.com

“Once you get into skateboarding, it sticks with you. It becomes a lens that you’re always looking at things through,” says Iwasaki of these chairs, made from repurposed skateboard decks.

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SAN DIEGO URBAN TIMBER If you spot a couple of guys on the side of the freeway, hoisting a fallen tree into their truck, you’ve probably just witnessed urban forestry. For Alex Devereaux and Dan Herbst, the owners of San Diego Urban Timber, an arboreal casualty of strong winds is just as good a source as old fencing.

The duo mills their mostly found wood and dries it in a solar kiln before crafting striking furniture that they describe as “rustic-modern.” Though only at it since 2009, San Diego Urban Timber has already landed commissions for hip local eateries and galleries.

Many artists prefer to work alone, but these two find creative inspiration in collaboration.

“When you do things on your own, you tend to develop signature design elements,” says Devereaux. “It’s easy to become handicapped by that.”

“This way, you end up with a more complex design,” adds Herbst.

Plus, two backs are better than one when doing all that heavy lifting. sdurbantimber.com

Downed by a wildfire, the black oak used in this table was destined for the scrap heap when SDUT salvaged it. “We milled it and found it was some of the most beautiful wood we’d ever come across,” says Herbst (right).

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“We try to harvest our barrels locally,” says Rooth, whose chairs are made from bourbon barrels reclaimed from Escondido-based Port Brewing and wine barrels from Temecula wineries.

GUSTAF ROOTH High-end collectors from coast to coast covet Gustaf Rooth’s Barrelly Made It line of furniture, which is upcycled from reclaimed wine and bourbon barrels. His Adirondack-style chair and simple curved bench are as gorgeous as they are green.

“The pieces are highly honed and handcrafted,” says Rooth, a Swedish-born San Diegan.

“They’re beautiful and super comfortable.”

You can find them at the European-style Planet Rooth Design Haus showroom, which Rooth opened in a two-story, turn-of-the-century craftsman in Bankers Hill, as well as at retail locations in 15 states.

“As an artist, it feels really good to be selling my work outside of San Diego. I wanted collectors that appreciate the art from the standpoint that I’m a master craftsman.” barrellymadeit.com

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las estrellas From chamber orchestras to electro-noisemakers, meet the rising stars of Tijuana’s ultra-diverse music scene

BY DERRIK CHINN

“Tijuana isn’t really Mexico, you know,” says the man after he slaps an oversized sombrero on your head and snaps your photo atop a tired donkey painted to look like a zebra. Colloquially known as a “zonkey,” the animal wears a bridle hand-painted with the letters of what you guess to be his name: Ruben. Kodak moments such as these are a timeless Tijuana tourist trap.

You find the news ironic because it’s coming from a Mexican who makes his living selling souvenir zonkey photos to visitors like you. Regardless, most people— well-traveled foreigners and Mexicans alike—would probably agree with the cameraman: Tijuana isn’t really Mexico.

Shoved in the country’s northernmost corner but barred from overflowing into San Diego by a heavily guarded wall, Tijuana is arguably the world’s most iconic geopolitical abnormality. Its proximity to the U.S. and distance from the rest of Latin America have caused it to constantly second-guess its own identity. Ruben would surely do the same, if he could.

The zonkey phenomenon—adapting yourself to become something that you aren’t, or are you?—is slathered over every aspect of life in Tijuana, especially its music. Here’s some of what you’ll find among the randomly diverse, highly buzzed-about (not to mention Grammy-winning) acts that this city of 1.56 million exports to the world: Hip-hop-inflected pop en español with unlikely roots in TJ’s underground 1980s ska scene. Carnal psycho-jazz that intentionally confuses itself with bilingual performance art. The sounds of blue-collar Bogotá dance halls remixed for a Detroit rave circa 1993. Even the local classical outfit, an orchestral answer to the United Nations, has beckoned the likes of Pavarotti.

Perhaps unlike anywhere else on the globe, Tijuana requires its people to constantly reconcile two very

distinct realities, something its artists and musicians do almost as naturally as one crosses the street. To be of the border is to be on the cusp, to simultaneously flaunt and balance multiple identities, regardless of your passport’s origin: Mexican, American, Latin American, Californian, Baja Californian, native, invader, invited, uninvited, creator, consumer, insider, outsider, tourist, attraction, audience, performer, divided, whole, pop, rock, punk, cumbia, techno, norteño, jazz, electro, donkey, zebra. Call it whatever you want. Ruben seems to answer to most anything.

JULIETA VENEGAS Perhaps no contemporary Tijuana musician has applied the sense of duality that’s embedded in a border town upbringing as successfully and sincerely as Julieta Venegas. Born in Long Beach but raised in Tijuana and San Diego, the singer-songwriter’s brand of ranchera-rock is the result of a lifelong exposure to American FM waves that sent influences like David Bowie, Suzanne Vega and Prince surging over the border. Years of pop imperialism and a nonstop bombardment of traditional Mexican genres created Venegas’ trademark style. Her melodic accordion and purely Spanish lyrics beautify realism with bittersweet yet confident emotional honesty. In 1990, Venegas joined the underground ska band Tijuana No!, helping to pen the group’s hit “Pobre de Ti (Poor You)” before relocating to Mexico City in 1993 to go solo. Since then she’s released six full-length albums, including 2006’s Grammy-winning Limón y Sal (Lemon and Salt), banked five Latin Grammys, starred in the first MTV Unplugged album to be recorded in Mexico and extensively toured the Americas and Europe. Venegas’ latest, Otra Cosa (Another Thing), won her a second Grammy nod in 2011. julietavenegas.net

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ous classical, pop and rock groups; and keyboardist Joel Castillo, who pilots a fleet of vintage equipment, including a 1972 Wurlitzer electric piano and a 1976 Roland RS-202. Live performances blur the boundaries between post-modern cabaret and performance art and are always punctuated by la moda de la Madame, whose wardrobe’s only element of predictability is its touch of border-town boudoir glam: sequined flapper dresses, corsets and fishnets, full-length minks, spike stilettos, even a drum majorette hat. Anything that totes a touch of kink goes. The band may still be unsigned, but 2011 nevertheless went down as Madame Ur’s best year yet. The release of its first full-length album Animal Man in May, the follow-up to 2007’s EP Men in Pearl Necklaces, coincided with the debut of the video for the lead single “Man” on mtviggy.com, MTV’s global music portal. madameur.com

THIS spread, above: Madame Ur y suS hombres; opposite: Nortec collective’s bostich + fussible

MADAME UR Y SUS HOMBRES With a voice that flows caramel-thick, Madame Ur is the Veracruz-accented alter-ego of Azzul Monraz, frontwoman of Tijuana jazz-rock quartet Madame Ur y Sus Hombres. A semi-fictional creature who comes from a private world that Monraz describes as her darkest, most extreme depths, she embodies every luxury, fetish, privilege, passion and power the world would otherwise deny the average woman. Monraz uses Madame to liberate herself from, well, herself. The results are songs—some in English, others in Spanish—about vices, fear, lust, regret, memories of sin, sensuality, excess, voids and, above all else, sus hombres. Her men.

Those would be bassist Toto Zuñiga; drummer Carlos Maria, a rising legend who’s collaborated with numer-

MARIA Y JOSÉ In 2009, a new word began to seep into the TJ scenester vocabulary: ruidosón. An urban compound that roughly translates to “big noise” in the form of traditional song, it refers to a Tijuana-bred genre that blends rabid electronica, prehispanic sounds and traditional Latin

luis garcia

OPENING SPREAD: Julieta Venegas

ORQUESTA DE BAJA CALIFORNIA Considered one of the most prestigious artistic institutions in northwestern Mexico, the Tijuana-based Orquesta de Baja California boasts quite the global cast: three Ukrainians, two Armenians, a Cuban, an American from Palo Alto, an Argentinian, a Russian and six Mexicans, three of whom are native Tijuanenses. The orchestra’s strong ties to eastern Europe are thanks in part to founder and director Eduardo García-Barrios, a Mexico City native who studied in Moscow for a decade before returning to Mexico with a group of Russian musicians to create the OBC in 1990. Now in its 21st year, the soloist ensemble is set to nearly double its roster to 29 members in 2011, making it an official chamber orchestra. Tango Mata Danzón Mata Tango (Tango Kills Danzón Kills Tango) fetched the group a Latin Grammy nomination for best classical album in 2001. In addition to performances at New York’s Lincoln Center and Mexico City’s Palacio de Bellas Artes, the group shared the stage with Luciano Pavarotti for an outdoor concert at Laguna Salada near Mexicali in 2003, one of the Italian tenor’s final performances. The state congress later named the orchestra Baja California’s official cultural ambassador in 2004. obc.org.mx

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flora arias

rhythms, namely cumbia, guarachero and tropicalismo.

Born in the wake of a fresh wave of narco violence, ruidosón coincided with the after-dark revival of downtown Tijuana: A new runway of bars and clubs opened along Sixth Street, frequented mostly by 20-something locals who were fed up with keeping themselves locked up at home in fear. A small pack of young bands and DJs saw this scene as the perfect opportunity to steal the spotlight with their new, reckless sound, intended to reflect all that was happening to their city. Their would-be poster boy: one-man act María y José, the stage name of 24-year-old Tony Gallardo. His mixes— spacey, lo-fi vocals apathetically uttered in Spanish atop a mesh of revved-up tribal samples and beats reminiscent of 1990s Mexican dance-pop—leapt to international indie-music-blog stardom almost as soon as he uploaded them to SoundCloud. But don’t let Gallardo’s homemade neon poncho, knockoff RayBans and cocky Twitter feed fool you into thinking he’s just another hipster high on irony. Ruidosón is a sincere audible portrait of his Tijuana: unpredictable, mismatched, overpacked, unstable, undersold, bizarre, bold, strung-out and, above all, big, with a lot of noise. elmariayjose.tk NORTEC COLLECTIVE’S BOSTICH + FUSSIBLE To the untrained ear, Nortec sounds like Mexican polka that belongs at the Love Parade. But as far as Bostich + Fussible (né Ramon Amezcua and Pepe Mogt) are concerned, they make Tijuana driving music. Mogt describes 2008’s Latin Grammy-nominated album Tijuana Sound Machine as the soundtrack to a mythical roadtrip along the border that zigzags between the U.S. and Mexico. The 2010 follow-up Bulevar 2000, a reference to the new four-lane freeway connecting Rosarito to the Tijuana-Tecate tollroad, led Spin magazine to dub them Mexico’s answer to Kraftwerk. Amezcua and Mogt were forefathers of the Nortec Collective, a late-1990s cultural movement that sought to redefine Tijuanense identity by exploiting, not rejecting, border-town stereotypes. Continuing in that vein, the pair disassembles norteño music—heavy with pumping tubas, accordion shrills and snappy snare drums—and pieces it back together using iPads and Yamaha Tenori-On synthesizers as if it were an electronic dance track. It’s an unexpected fusion of two worlds that never seemed to have much in common, but as B+F’s live shows continue to fill venues from their hometown to Turkey, that’s clearly not the case. myspace.com/tijuanasoundmachine

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FUTURE

By maria C. hunt

BACKTOthe

modern technologies and old-fashioned methods battle to win the hearts, minds and appetites of local chefs— and their diners

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PREVIOUS SPREAD: jamaican jerk Pork belly with habanero gelée at nine-ten this page, above: the dining room at jsix in the gaslamp Quarter; Opposite: jsix chef christian graves uses classic techniqueS to make many items in-house, from mustard to pickles.

He combines tangy ponzu—a mix of yuzu citrus juice and soy sauce—with calcium lactate, a white crystalline salt. Then he squeezes tiny droplets of the tawny liquid into a bath of sodium alginate, a viscous gum that’s derived from brown seaweed. As they hit the sodium alginate bath, the ponzu drops turn into tiny translucent bronze spheres. Mixed with the tuna tartare, the ponzu spheres pop and release tiny bursts of acidity and salt with every bite.

This tuna tartare will make a fresh statement, thanks to the magic of molecular gastronomy.

“I don’t think a lot of people in San Diego are going to say their food is molecular,” says Knibb, whose restaurant is considered a leader in the farm-to-table style of cooking. “But it’s sort of mainstream nowadays and it’s adding different sensory elements to eating.”

Molecular fare—with its foams, gelées and spheres produced by mixing edible chemicals with food—is seemingly at odds with the dominant farm-to-table ethos in San Diego, one of the nation’s agricultural capitals.

Some restaurants, like A.R. Valentien at The Lodge at Torrey Pines, are so rooted in farm-to-table and Old World traditions that the only culinary tricks they need are natural delicacies like green garlic, Eben-Haezer eggs and Cara Cara oranges.

“I’m here in Southern California, you have a 365-daya-year growing season, you’ve got these great foodstuffs to work with and there’s not any reason to mess with it that much,” says A.R. Valentien Chef Jeff Jackson.

“There’s much to be said for simplicity.”

Still, elements of this mind-bending cuisine are appearing at restaurants that also celebrate seasonal and local produce, like Harney Sushi, Blanca, Kitchen 1540 at L’Auberge Del Mar and Nine-Ten. It’s even part of the bar program at Searsucker and the Grant Grill in the Gaslamp Quarter and Avenue 5 in Bankers Hill, where Mike Yen’s on- and off-the-menu drinks include cotton candy and mint spheres.

Molecular gastronomy is an international culinary movement created and popularized by Catalan Chef Ferran Adrià at his now-iconic El Bulli, which closed its doors in the summer of 2011. Inspired by the idea that true creativity means never copying another chef, Adrià

plays with food’s shape, texture and temperature in his kitchen-cum-laboratory. The results are dishes like a fizzy lemon and gin cocktail with an olive sphere, egg yolks encased in crunchy caramel, deconstructed gazpacho or bone marrow tartare disguised as an oyster and served with foamy flavored “air.”

Daniel Barron earned national attention for the molecular-inspired menu he debuted at Anqi in Orange County.

Now he’s shaking things up at Blue Point Coastal Cuisine with dishes like a hiramasa belly tempura wrapped in root beer cotton candy. The dish comes with a pipette of fresh melon juice that diners squeeze into their mouths before biting into the fish.

The Bloody Mary is reinvented with crystal-clear tomato water and horseradish-infused vodka. The molecular touch comes from a small piece of dry ice in the bottom of the glass; as it dissolves and bubbles, it makes little balls of compressed watermelon dance in the glass.

“Tableside ice cream is a mind-blower here,” says Barron, who features an Elvis-style peanut butter, banana and chocolate ice cream frozen on the spot with liquid nitrogen. “The whole restaurant stops and watches what we’re doing, and it makes the people who order it feel special.”

Before taking over the kitchen at Harney Sushi, Anthony Sinsay worked with José Andrés, Adrià’s most famous—and commercially successful—protégé at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills.

“I learned how being curious can yield great results,” says Sinsay, 28. “I’m not going to serve a sphere on a spoon. I want to find techniques that add something unique to the dish.”

Along with soy and seaweed, Sinsay’s cache of ingredients in his Old Town kitchen includes potions like modified tapioca starch, nitrous oxide and liquid nitrogen.

Sinsay’s most successful dishes take something familiar and add a molecular twist. His bagels feature yuzu cream cheese “noodles” that were frozen with liquid nitrogen and then extruded like pasta alongside Scottish salmon.

At a temperature of 276 degrees below zero, liquid nitrogen can freeze anything, even alcohol. Sinsay used it to create a single malt Scotch sorbet to accompany a chocolate mousse dessert.

pickles by derek plank

Jason Knibb is in his kitchen at Nine-Ten in La Jolla, working on a new presentation for tuna tartare—a dish that’s nearly de rigueur on a fashionable restaurant menu. But Knibb has something different in mind.

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cocktail by dhanraj emanuel

There’s no oven at Harney, so Sinsay had to come up with another way to “bake” a chocolate cake. He injects cake batter with nitrous oxide gas, causing it to puff up just like baking powder does in a conventional batter. After 30 seconds in the microwave, the cake is light and fluffy.

Back at Nine-Ten, pastry chef Jack Fisher uses the same technique to make a brilliant green basil cake that’s paired with fresh strawberries.

Knibb says some of the starchy powders used in molecular cooking can dull the taste of food, so they need to be used sparingly. He’s a bigger fan of gelées, a fancy word for old-fashioned sheet gelatin. A bright orange tangerine gelée complements his lobster salad, and instead of shaking spice onto his Jamaican jerk pork belly, he blankets it in a sheet of habanero gelée.

Blanca Chef Gavin Schmidt describes his cuisine as über-local, which is hardly an exaggeration. Besides procuring produce from local farmers, Schmidt forages for local seaweed and edible ice plant flowers. They’re featured along with local sea urchin, Carlsbad mussels and Santa Barbara spot prawns on his Still Life of Local Waters. The whole plate is covered with a sheet of dashi cucumber gelée, so it’s like diners are peering down into a pool of water.

Another dish, the Day on the Farm, features toasted pistachio, leek ash and cocoa nib “dirt” bursting with baby root vegetables, wild fennel blooms, nettles and nasturtium flowers. But he still uses the occasional modernist food technique.

“When we get back to the kitchen, it’s using these techniques to elevate already good cuisine rather than a cuisine based on technique,” Schmidt says. “There’s no replacing meat and fire. That’s a flavor you can’t duplicate with science.”

At Jsix, Christian Graves likes the way molecular techniques like compression can intensify the flavors in a strawberry. Berries are sealed in a bag, then all the air is sucked out. The vacuum compresses the berry molecules, leaving the fruit translucent with a concentrated flavor.

But Graves says molecular cooking doesn’t really turn him on.

“Like [Iron Chef] Michael Symon says, we’ve been trying to take the chemicals out of food for so long, why would you try to put them back in?” asks Graves.

At Jsix, which specializes in seasonal and coastal California fare, nearly every dish and its components have a classical French or slightly rustic and handcrafted element to them.

The spring menu features gnocchi with chicken consommé, a labor-intensive broth dating back to 16thcentury France. They start with chicken broth and then ladle it over a raft of egg white, chicken and mirepoix for two hours to remove any bits that could cloud the broth.

It’s not done until the consommé is crystal clear.

Graves takes the time to make his own mustard from mustard seeds carefully steeped in red wine for hours. He loves the way the soft seeds burst on your tongue when it’s done just right.

The kitchen cures hog jowls to make the cheek bacon known as guanciale for the pasta carbonara on the menu.

It also pickles cucumbers, as well as butternut squash, radishes, turnips and kumquats.

“That’s being a real cook: cutting your own meat and pickling your own stuff and working in the seasons,” says Graves.

Jackson at A.R. Valentien agrees, though he admires the passion and creativity that molecular techniques have inspired in a young generation of chefs and barmen.

But the headlong rush he sees in some restaurants to add a foam, powder or sphere to every dish reminds Jackson of the 1960s and ‘70s, when French nouvelle cuisine emerged.

Leading French chefs such as Paul Bocuse, Roger Vergé and brothers Jean and Pierre Troisgros decided to break with the traditional styles of haute cuisine created back in the 1800s by Marie-Antonin Carême and later refined in the early 1900s by Georges Auguste Escoffier. Their nouvelle cuisine was lighter, fresher and offered more creative presentations and combinations of flavors.

“They were doing things like Dover sole with blueberries and chanterelles, which sounds ridiculous, but if done properly it was really good,” Jackson says.

“There’s a handful of guys who are brilliant with molecular, and when you see these menus and it’s sous vide this and deconstructed that—people try, but it’s only done half-way. There’s only so many Ferran Adriàs in the world.”

He finds comfort—and the most diner accolades— from simple dishes like his chicken cooked under a brick, and the chicken liver pâté on his menu is the same one he learned 30 years ago from Chef Jean Banchet.

“I find when I eat food prepared properly and simply, it touches my soul in a way the avant garde can’t,” says Jackson.

above: avenue 5 mixologist mike yen incorporates molecular techniques behind the bar, like in this cotton candy cuban, a twist on the classic mojito. opposite: at blanca, chef gavin schmidt’s “day on the farm” showcases seven different preparations of Eden Farms Berkshire pork, USING all parts of the animal, from trotters to chicharrones to the licorice-root-spiced pork jus that is drizzled over the top.

For addresses and information on these dining destinations, see chow time, beginning on p. 73

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Neighborhoods

La Jolla Known as “the Jewel,” La Jolla is the pride of San Diego, boasting unparalleled natural wonders and a cozy sense of community.

The village’s tree-lined avenues give it a quaint, Main Street USA feel, only decidedly more upscale, thanks to tony boutiques and four-star bistros with sweeping views of the majestic, craggy coastline below. Surfers flock to La Jolla’s legendary reef breaks— such as Windansea beach, famously chronicled by Tom Wolfe in The Pump House Gang—while kayakers are drawn to the cove’s mysterious caves. Youngsters find endless amusement watching the seals at Children’s Pool beach. The town is also home to the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, which presents world-class exhibitions in its spacious galleries overlooking the Pacific.

little italy New York’s got one, Chicago’s got one, and so does San Diego.

Downtown-adjacent Little Italy has a palpable authenticity to it: Though it’s a popular stop for visitors looking for a slice of la dolce vita, don’t be surprised to hear the mellifluous strains of la madrelingua wafting from the many intimate bistros, pasta markets and sidewalk cafés lining the main drag, India Street. The village-like neighborhood is populated by many actual Italians, whose heritage is celebrated during several lively annual festas. Little Italy has also become one of the trendiest nesting sites for San Diego’s young urbanites, thanks to its contemporary architecture, adorable boutiques and a burgeoning, galleryfilled design district.

DOWNTOWN/GASLAMP quarter/EAST VILLAGE The one-time red-light district and former hangout of Wild West legends like Wyatt Earp, downtown’s Gaslamp Quarter is now among the country’s most vibrant entertainment districts, packed with a dizzying array of restaurants, nightclubs and boutiques. Downtown is also San Diego’s civic and cultural center, housing the headquarters for the Symphony and Opera, as well as the historic, beautifully renovated Balboa Theatre.

Still more attractions await along the Embarcadero, including the Maritime Museum, the USS Midway aircraft carrier and Seaport Village, with its shops, restaurants and vintage carousel.

Adjacent to the Gaslamp, the developing East Village seems to sprout a new condo high-rise weekly, attracting residents with its proximity to Petco Park, home of the San Diego Padres.

del mar/ solana beach These North Coast beach towns are a shopper’s paradise.

Upscale but accessible, Del Mar’s pedestrian-friendly downtown has no shortage of bars and restaurants at which to wind down from a day spent indulging in retail therapy at the chic boutiques of Del Mar Plaza or betting the ponies at the famous Del Mar Racetrack, a longtime hotspot for Hollywood’s elite. A few miles up historic Highway 101 lies funky Solana Beach, where boutiquelined Cedros Avenue forms the spine of the area’s design district.

Converted Quonset huts house all manner of home décor shops, art galleries and clothiers, while by night the Belly Up Tavern books some of the best local and national musical talent on the circuit.

(l-r) edwin santiago, jay reilly, amy k. fellows, rebecca morquecho

SAN DIEGO comprises MANY VERY DIFFERENT communities. HERE ARE THE MOST VISITED.

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(l-r) john dole, bjarne g. jensen, edwin santiago, Ashok Sinha

Uptown/hillcrest San Diego’s edgiest cultural districts can be found in the neighborhoods just north and east of Balboa Park. Originally the center of the city’s gay and lesbian community, Hillcrest brims with a variety of entertainment options, including stellar shopping, tastetempting Thai food and lively dance clubs. Neighboring Mission Hills is home to beautiful estates whose residents frequent its charming boutiques and bistros. Due east, North Park—with its numerous alternative galleries and the historic Birch Theatre—is the city’s newest arts-and-nightlife hub, while its southern neighbor, South Park, is a small but charming collection of shade-dappled streets lined with boutiques, bars and cafés. Take a drive through the area’s residential streets to marvel at fine examples of Craftsman architecture.

encinitas/carlsbad The beach communities of North County have a pace all their own.

Quaint and walkable, the neighborhoods operate on clocks that seem to tick a bit slower, where corporate homogeneity doesn’t stand a chance against homegrown mom-and-pop shops. Locals prize this simple, laid-back lifestyle as the very definition of the good life. Encinitas lends itself to quiet contemplation, whether from atop a longboard at Swami’s beach or while strolling the gardens of the Self-Realization Fellowship, whose golden, lotus blossom-shaped towers define the skyline. To the north, Carlsbad’s village is packed with bistros and antique shops, while LegoLand and other attractions, such as the seasonal Flower Fields, are just a short drive to the east.

coronado Sometimes referred to by locals as “the island,” Coronado is actually an isthmus, connected to mainland San Diego by a slim strip of beach known as the Silver Strand.

Accessible by ferry from downtown San Diego or via a majestic 2.12-mile-long bridge, Coronado makes for a charming day trip.

Wide, tree-lined boulevards and historic homes lend a small-town atmosphere to Coronado’s main drag. As it makes its way toward the Pacific, Orange Avenue winds past the picturesque red turrets of the Hotel del Coronado, a Victorian-era resort where Marilyn Monroe and Jack Lemmon famously filmed Some Like It Hot. The area’s scenic beaches are favored by joggers, swimmers, sandcastle-building families and dog owners, whose four-legged friends love to frolic in the surf.

pacific beach/mission beach/Mission bay San Diego is home to dozens of colleges and universities, and the beach neighborhoods are where those students live. On a thin peninsula separating Mission Bay from the Pacific Ocean, Mission Beach is one continuous beach party, its boardwalk abuzz with joggers, bicyclists, skateboarders and sightseers on Segways. It’s also home to the historic Giant Dipper roller coaster, which dates back to 1925. East of Mission Beach is Mission Bay, whose salty waters are plied by kayakers, speedboats and catamarans. Nearby Pacific Beach is a haven for swimwear boutiques, surfing, sunbathing and fishing off the end of the iconic Crystal Pier. By night, Garnet Avenue’s lively bars and clubs keep the good times rolling.

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old town By day, pedestrian-only Old Town State Park attracts visitors with historic structures, including the city’s first public schoolhouse, oldest surviving newspaper (The San Diego Union) and first brick courthouse.

Nearby Heritage Park is a collection of immaculately preserved Victorian homes, including the 1887 Stick/Eastlake-style ShermanGilbert House and Temple Beth Israel, the city’s first synagogue, constructed in 1889. On the hill above Old Town stands another important landmark, the Junípero Serra Museum in Presidio Park, where Father Serra established Alta California’s first mission in 1769. By night, Old Town’s streets become a quaint entertainment district, packed with Mexican restaurants and festive bars.

ocean beach/ point Loma These are the quieter, more scenic cousins to the raucous coastal neighborhoods of Pacific and Mission Beach. Ocean Beach, or “O.B.” to locals, is a holdout of counterculture, full of organic grocers, antique malls and laid-back watering holes. The Wednesday afternoon farmer’s market— replete with fresh veggies, busking musicians and even llama rides for the kids—offers a perfect snapshot of the community. Adjacent Point Loma houses Cabrillo National Monument, where in 1542 Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo became the first European to set foot on the West Coast. Point Loma’s iconic lighthouse, which dates back to 1855, is also worth a visit.

baja california No longer just a getaway for the youthful partygoer, the new Baja is a worthwhile excursion for passport-wielding foodies and cultureseekers. Though you needn’t look far to find a boisterous party scene in downtown Tijuana, you’ll also find the spherical Centro Cultural, an architectural marvel housing a concert hall, art gallery and historical museum. Twenty miles south are the coastal towns Rosarito and Puerto Nuevo, where fresh-caught lobster is a local specialty. Surfers and horseback riders are perpetually drawn to these beaches, while the area’s luxury spas offer a little R&R. Baja even has its own wine country, a 14-mile route through the Valle de Guadalupe east of Ensenada. Just south of the romantic port city lies La Bufadora, a spectacular ocean blowhole.

For WHAT’S HAPPENING IN S.D., see where SAN DIEGO magazine OR WherESD.com

julian/temecula For an unforgettable day trip from San Diego, head northeast.

About an hour from downtown is Julian, a historic gold rush town situated in the scenic Cuyamaca mountains. Dating back to the 1870s, the charming community features a small main drag lined with historic buildings, and is particularly beautiful in the fall, when the leaves are turning and the apple harvest is in full swing. Don’t leave without trying a slice of Julian’s famous apple pie or a piping-hot mug of cider.

Temecula Wine Country, meanwhile, may not be as well-known as Napa or Sonoma, but with more than 20 wineries packed close together, it’s a satisfying stop for oenophiles. The annual balloon and wine festival, held in the summertime, celebrates Temecula’s many charms.

(old town, Julian) ian white; (ocean beach) edwin santiago; (baja) Christian Campbell

Neighborhoods

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spending time

amy k. fellows

SHOPPING san diego style is all about elegance tempered by comfort. this is the common thread uniting the tony Designer shops of la jolla, the independent boutiques springing up downtown and the numerous fashion and outlet malls. Decisions, decisions.

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LOOK BOOK OLIVER PEOPLES

PIGMENT

San Diego is a gold mine for discerning shoppers; discover a treasure trove of boutiques and galleries whose wares range from classic to contemporary.

Inspired by the frames worn

by Gregory Peck when he played Atticus Finch in To Kill A Mockingbird, this classic look from Oliver Peoples honors the 50th anniversary of the film and has a special significance for us locals, since Peck founded the La Jolla Playhouse back in 1947. Available as sunglasses or optical frames for men, the glasses come in black, buff, cocobolo or raintree (pictured) and sell for $315 at the Oliver Peoples store in the Fashion Valley shopping center. 7027 Friars Road, 619.299.2222, oliverpeoples.com From reality-TV star turned fashion icon Nicole Ritchie, House of Harlow 1960 is a line of vintage-inspired costume jewelry named in honor of Ritchie’s daughter. This 14-karat gold-plated feather locket ring retails for $75 at Pigment, a chic home décor shop perfectly suited for the Dwell magazine set. 3827 30th St., North Park, 619.501.6318, shoppigment.com

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A great leather jacket is a must in every woman’s wardrobe. This sleek Cateye leather jacket with denim accents is part of G-Star Raw’s Raw Essentials line. Find it at the Dutch chain’s downtown San Diego location for $975. 470 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.238.7088, g-star.com Featuring Bendel’s signature stripes, this brown-and-white leather barrel bag boasts persimmon-colored Italian jacquard fabric and a satin interior. With its two inner zip pockets, it makes for an ideal daytime accessory. $350 at the Henri Bendel store at Fashion Valley. 7007 Friars Road, 619.296.4076, henribendel.com

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Handmade in California, this halfinch-wide Infinity double-wrap belt from San Diego-based de Palma Leather is made of softened bull hide and hand-pounded to form the interlocking Möbius strip at the center. Pictured here in smoke and black, the belt’s edges are beveled, then smoothed by hand with beeswax for a softer feel; the simple closure is a small brass pin. This belt goes for $165 at Vocabulary. 414 W. Cedar St., Little Italy, 619.544.1100, vocabularyboutique.com Pour la Victoire’s fashionable footwear has been spotted on celebs ranging from Anne Hathaway to Rachel Weisz. Both classic and ofthe-moment, these black patent leather Irina pumps boast a nearly five-inch heel, a 1.25-inch hidden platform and low-cut vamp for a sultry silhouette. Find them for $250 at Bloomingdale’s. Fashion Valley, 7057 Friars Road, 619.610.6400, bloomingdales.com Beveled and engraved by hand, Franck Muller’s Double Mystery Four Seasons watch for women features more than 250 color stones including rubies, emeralds, garnets, amethyst and five different types of sapphires, with 218 round diamonds on the dial, which boasts two turning disks. With its hand-sewn light purple alligator strap and gold case, the watch retails for $86,000 at Westime. 1227 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.2222, westime.com

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Contemporary artist Jeff Koons actually tried to sue to keep these puppies off the shelves, claiming they infringed on the copyright of his Balloon Dog sculpture. Luckily for us, Koons dropped the charges, but the publicity caused demand for these playful balloon-animal bookends to skyrocket. You can find them locally at the X Store at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego’s La Jolla location. Available in purple and orange, they retail for $32. 700 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.3541, mcasd.org/store

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THinK GlOBal, SHOp lOcal Good things are made in San Diego, from Taylor Guitars to brawny beers from Stone Brewing co. The town's also home to a pretty hot independent fashion and design scene, supported by a handful of local boutiques that showcase their wares. On a shady street in the South park neighborhood, tiny make Good represents a collective of local crafters, artisans and designers who make anything from messenger bags to paintings and jewelry. Up the street in north park, pigment can hardly keep up with the demand for Britt neubacher's chic Eco-Orb

For more than 35 years, Diane Powers’ Bazaar del Mundo has endured as one of San Diego’s most beloved tourist destinations. This festive collection of nine boutique shops just across Juan Street from the State Park features eye-catching items from around the globe, from colorful pottery at Artes de Mexico to feminine clothing and jewelry at Ariana. You’ll also find textiles, kitchen items, home furnishings, paintings, folk art and an inspiring array of coffee-table books and other titles. 4133 Taylor St., Old Town, 619.296.3161, bazaardelmundo.com

h FaSHiOn vallEyCL9006472 There are shopping malls and there are shopping empires. Fashion Valley holds sway as San Diego’s premiere shopping destination, with five department stores—including Neiman Marcus and Bloomingdale’s—and 200 shops, restaurants and a movie theater. If Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Burberry are too pricey for your pocketbook, Fashion Valley has all the usual suspects as well, from Abercrombie to Z Gallerie. When shopping fatigue hits, take a breather at FV’s expansive food court. 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.688.9113, simon.com

caRlSBaD pREmiUm OUTlETS CL0027058 Fashion vendors at this outdoor shopping center 30 minutes north of downtown San Diego range from Kenneth Cole, Dooney & Bourke and Lacoste to Barneys New York and Brooks Brothers. The outlets also boast wellselected shops specializing in children’s clothes, shoes for every occasion, travel gear, home furnishings and gifts. The center is located just off Interstate 5 (look for the giant windmill). 5620 Paseo del Norte, Carlsbad, 760.804.9000, premiumoutlets.com

FiESTa DE REyES CL9006473 This four-acre dining and retail plaza sits at the center of Old Town State Historic Park, San Diego’s original Mexican pueblo, founded in 1821.

The compound is designed to bring a festive atmosphere to the park by replicating the way settlers partied 150 years ago. Here you’ll find shops selling anything from hundreds of different varieties of hot sauce to locally produced wines and olive oils, plus art galleries and studios, and restaurants and cantinas inspired by 19th-century San Diego life. 2754 Calhoun St., Old Town, 619.297.3100, fiestadereyes.com

DEl maR plazaCL0027059 Experience the elegant seaside approach to a full shopping excursion.

The shops at Del Mar Plaza offer merchandise ranging from specialty clothing, footwear and organic bath products to artwork and gifts. Casual and fine-dining restaurants are also perched upon this elevated plaza, providing guests a delightful coastal view. 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.1555, delmarplaza.com

THE FORUm aT caRlSBaD CL900647 Nestled between the North County communities of Rancho Santa Fe, Del Mar and Encinitas, the Forum at Carlsbad is much more appealing than your average strip mall. This pedestrian-friendly and aesthetically pleasing shopping center is lined with tropical palm trees and boasts popular retail outlets like Talbots, Victoria’s Secret and Z Gallerie, plus family-oriented eateries such as Buca di Beppo

glass terrariums, which are suspended from the ceilings of S.D.'s trendiest apartments. at shops like cecilia's in mission Hills and the Basement in mission Beach, you can find upcycled clothing from RoseRags; color-drenched, hand-sewn summer dresses from m. Dot, and handcrafted jewelry by lush, making it easy to shop— and dress—like a local.

and Panera Bread. 1901-1935 Calle Barcelona, Carlsbad, 760.479.0166, theforumcarlsbad.com

h HORTOn plazaCL9006475 Located on the site of San Diego’s historic town plaza, this seven-level, open-air mall is often credited as having sparked downtown’s revitalization. With an outrageous kaleidoscopic design, Horton opened in 1985 and features some 130 shops and restaurants, including mall chain mainstays (The Gap, Nine West, Levi’s, etc.), department stores (Nordstrom, Macy’s), a food court and movie theater. The colorful shopping center offers three hours of free parking with validation. 324 Horton Plaza, Gaslamp Quarter, 619.239.8180, westfield.com/hortonplaza laS amERicaS pREmiUm OUTlETS CL0027064 Bargain hunters regularly trek to the border to find discounted treasures at this outdoor fashion outlet center, San Diego’s largest. With 125 stores and restaurants, including Neiman Marcus Last Call, Las Americas offers ample square footage to shop.

Just don’t go expecting basement bargains on everything—a lot of the stuff costs about the same as retail.

Bonus: Tijuana is a five-minute walk away. Hop on the Blue Line trolley from downtown for a hassle-free day.

4211 Camino de la Plaza, San Ysidro, 619.934.8400, lasamericas.com SEapORT villaGECL0027063 Don’t let the “I heart S.D.” mugs and seashell trinkets scare you away— this popular tourist destination has many charms beyond its corner on the local souvenir market. In style, the 14-acre complex pays homage to the early days of the century-old seaport

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WHERE SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA FINDS THE VERY BEST Explore our world-renowned collection of 250 boutiques, 30 restaurants and the Segerstrom Center for the Arts for an experience you will find only at South Coast Plaza.

APPLE STORE BALENCIAGA BOTTEGA VENETA BRUNELLO CUCINELLI CARTIER CHANEL CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN DIOR ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA GUCCI HARRY WINSTON HERMÈS LEGO LONGCHAMP LOUIS VUITTON OMEGA OSCAR DE LA RENTA PRADA TIFFANY & CO. YVES SAINT LAURENT Partial Listing

SAKS FIFTH AVENUE, BLOOMINGDALE’S NORDSTROM, MACY’S

SAN DIEGO FWY (405) AT BRISTOL ST., COSTA MESA, CA 800.782.8888 traveler.southcoastplaza.com

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figures of Louis Longi, best known for the stylized bronze sculptures he created for Cirque du Soleil. 640 Broadway, downtown, 619.531.8996, alexandersalazarfineart.com

h THE aRT OF Tim canTOR CL00259 At age 15, Tim Cantor captured recognition when one of his paintings was placed in the White House. He has since been featured in some of the world’s most prestigious art venues.

One of his own galleries, however, is right here in San Diego, offering visitors an up-close look at the artist’s expressive, darkly ethereal original oil paintings and limited-edition prints.

527 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.235.6990, timcantor.com

mImI&LU JeWeLRY At CeCILIA'S

and features 50 shops and a handful of casual and upscale eateries. Miles of bayside cobblestone paths make it an ideal place for strolling on a sundappled afternoon. And kids will dig the delightful carved-wood carousel.

849 W. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.235.4014, seaportvillage.com

h SOUTH cOaST plazaCL9006531 South Coast Plaza is the crown jewel of luxury shopping on the West Coast, recognized internationally for its unparalleled collection of more than 280 boutiques, award-winning restaurants, spas and the adjacent performing arts center. Its stellar cast of diverse retailers—from Oscar de la Renta, Balenciaga, Christian Louboutin, Hermès and Harry Winston to Tory Burch, J. Crew, H&M and more—makes it one of Southern California’s top shopping experiences. Services include valet parking, currency exchange, foreign-language assistance and hotel information. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888, traveler.southcoastplaza.com

UnivERSiTy TOWnE cEnTER Family-friendly University Towne Center (UTC) is a popular shopping spot for students from nearby UCSD. This sprawling open-air mall features three major department stores (Nordstrom, Macy’s, Sears) and more than 160 shops and eateries, including a two-story Crate & Barrel. Commissioned artwork includes a dolphin-themed play fountain for children. The mall’s food court overlooks an ice skating rink— one of the few remaining in San Diego. 4545 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.546.8858, westfield.com/utc

GallERiES alExanDER SalazaR FinE aRTCL900792 Anchoring a still-developing corner of downtown, this gallery comes courtesy of its namesake owner, a longtime art dealer who wanted to invest in his own neighborhood. The work on display—invariably by emerging or midcareer living artists—ranges from the provocative to the lyrical, such as the

cHUcK JOnES STUDiO GallERyCL9006481 The work of animator Chuck Jones has been viewed and valued by generations enjoying Saturday morning cartoons and is now on view at this gallery in the Gaslamp. The gallery features work by Jones, the Oscar-winning creator of such memorable characters as Road Runner, Wile E. Coyote, Marvin the Martian and Pepe le Pew, as well as images from San Diego’s beloved Theodor “Dr. Seuss” Geisel. 232 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.294.9880, chuckjones.com/galleries.php ciREllO GallERyCL900651 Cirello Gallery, located in North Park’s arts district, carries an impressive selection of designs by local artisans, including paintings, sculpture, glass, photography, furniture and other decorative objects. Especially cool is the geometric Cirello Jewelry line, made sustainably from discarded steel scraps. Featured artists rotate monthly; the gallery is open daily. 3803 Ray St., North Park, 619.201.4668, cirellogallery.com DiSTincTiOn GallERyCL900794 This Escondido contemporary art gallery showcases figurative pop and urban surrealist painting from emerging and established artists. Readers of

the underground art mag Juxtapoz should find something to like in this 7,000-square-foot building, which features various exhibition spaces as well as 14 artist studios. (Th-Sa).

317 E. Grand Ave., Escondido, 760.781.5779, distinctionart.com JETT GallERyCL9006483 Look to Little Italy’s artist-owned Jett Gallery for a diverse assortment of contemporary art. The spacious gallery features sculpture and furniture from owner Joey Vaiasuso as well as paintings and mixed-media works by additional artists. Hours vary. 989 W. Kalmia St., Little Italy, 619.231.2466, jettgallery.net JOSEpH BEllOWS GallERyCL900648 Joseph Bellows Gallery features primarily vintage prints and photography in the three exhibition spaces at its La Jolla location. The gallery also offers search and consultation services for both beginning and established collectors, in addition to appraisal services.

(T-Sa). 7661 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.5620, josephbellows.com maDiSOn GallERyCL9007945 Gallery owner Lorna York presides over this 3,500-square-foot contemporary art space in the heart of La Jolla, which handles prints from the greats—Warhol, Picasso, Tamayo— as well as work from living artists: etchings by Damien Hirst, mixedmedia panels by Jane Maxwell and metal sculptures from rising local star Matt Devine. Open daily. 1020 Prospect St. #130, La Jolla, 858.459.0836, madisongalleries.com nOEl-Baza FinE aRTCL9006485 Located in the art and design district of Little Italy, Noel-Baza Fine Art features original artwork by living midcareer artists and acknowledged 20thcentury masters. Lichtensteins and Warhols hang alongside canvases and sculptures by contemporary artists in this modern, sunlit space. (T-Sa). 2165 India St., Little Italy, 619.876.4160, noel-bazafineart.com

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bamboo onesies, unbleached cotton swaddlers and shelves filled with classic kid-lit titles ranging from Seuss to Silverstein to Sendak—even yoga-forbabies manuals. 2007 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff-by-the Sea, 760.230.4272 babiesbytheseaboutique.com The BasementCL900674 This younger-skewing beach boutique carries trendy styles from national designers like Collective Concepts as well as locals like Barbara Wheeler, whose Lush jewelry line is a perennial favorite. You’ll also find shoes, handbags, accessories and a small section showcasing designer resale. Closed Weds. during winter. 3790 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.8824

tAYLOR GUITARS

Quint GalleryCL9007943 For more than 30 years, Mark Quint has been known as one of the most influential gallerists in town, and his opening parties are legendary. People still talk about the time, years ago, that he let an artist shove a telephone pole through the front door, two walls and a back office. Ryan McGinness, Kim MacConnel and Roy McMakin are among the big names the gallery represents. (T-Sa). 7547 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.3409, quintgallery.com Scott White Contemporary ArtCL9006487 For more than 25 years, Scott White Contemporary Art has consistently put together some of the most interesting gallery shows in San Diego, featuring the work of both emerging and midcareer artists. Media ranges from contemporary painting and printmaking to sculpture and photography created by artists from the United States, Canada and Europe. Willem de Kooning, Frank Stella, Norman Bluhm and Carol K. Brown are just a few of the names

whose work has been showcased here.

(T-Sa). 939 W. Kalmia St., Little Italy, 619.501.5689, scottwhiteart.com Subtext GalleryCL900648 Don Hollis and Dylan Jones strive to bring their eclectic tastes to San Diego at the Subtext Gallery, showing urban contemporary, pop surrealist and lowbrow artists in exhibitions known for their hip, well-attended opening receptions. The gallery also sells limited edition books on architecture and illustration as well as toys. Private showings are available by appointment except Sundays. 2479 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy, 619.546.8800, subtextgallery.com

Shops & Boutiques Babies by the SeaCL90062 Becoming a mother gave veteran boutique owner Laura Ann Fairchild the inspiration to open this shop specializing in natural, environmentally sensitive products for mom and baby.

She teamed up with her OB/GYN Dr. Robert Biter to create Babies by the Sea, where you’ll find super-soft

Bixby & BallCL9007948 The oldest cottage on South Cedros is now home to this lifestyle boutique carrying items that are coastal chic, minus the kitschy, gaudy seashells.

You’ll find linens and quilts by John Robshaw, oversized throw pillows and nature-inspired wall art, along with lotions, scrubs, books, cards, jewelry, kitchenware and more.

214 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.436.7215, bixbyandball.com CannisseCL9007946 In a small, sleek studio nestled among condos and cafés is this chic boutique, whose women’s fashions are designed and produced in southern France.

The shop’s linen and cotton pieces in creamy earth tones and muted blues, reds and purples manage to be comfortable without sacrificing elegance.

1772 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy, 619.255.9297, cannisse.com Capricorn CL00270 This smart, chic-looking shop in the Bird Rock district features a discriminating array of women’s fashions from independent designers including Nation LTD, Myne, Patterson J. Kincaid and more in its checkerboardtiled space. Shoes and accessories, too. 5544-B La Jolla Blvd., La Jolla, 858.551.2660, capricornboutique.com

Cecilia’s BoutiqueCL900658 Owned by Elizabeth Leffler-Agia, a seasoned stylist, Cecilia’s Boutique is a haven for designer denim, unique accessories and delicate jewelry as well as many items from local labels, such as RoseRags’ upcycled, vintage-inspired fashions.

Closed Sun. 928 Fort Stockton Drive #115, Mission Hills, 619.692.3802, ceciliaboutiquesd.com Charriol BoutiqueCL002702 Philippe Charriol founded his eponymous company in 1983 with the introduction of the signature Celtic watch. Since then, Charriol’s grown to be recognized as an upscale purveyor of sophisticated jewelry, classic time-pieces and luxury accessories that take their cues from contemporary design and age-old artistry. 4330 La Jolla Village Drive #100, La Jolla, 800.872.0172, charriolusa.com Chillers Showroom CL9007931 Beach-city fashion gets a little more chic with this shop, which specializes in supersoft, thin T-shirts screenprinted with beach-inspired graphics right on-site. It also sells trendy men’s and women’s fashions from a well-chosen group of smaller SoCal labels like Goddis, Bobi and Stacia. 4667 Cass St., Pacific Beach, 858.274.3112, chillersclothing.com CorrineCL002703 You’ll be catered to in comfort at this tony La Jolla boutique, which features an expansive array of European and domestic sportswear, plus elegant special occasion and evening wear from designers like Elm, Lilith, Planet, Sara Pacini, Füsun and many more. 7644 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.459.2021, corrineonline.com D.G. Wills Books CL002704 While mega-bookstores peddle everything from CDs to lattes, D.G. Wills sells books. Fiction and nonfiction, stacked high on floor-toceiling wood shelves, along with photographs, prints and old-time

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La Jolla memorabilia. Owner Dennis Wills can talk at length about all things literary; he also makes spoton reading suggestions. The shop has hosted readings by authors ranging from Allen Ginsberg and Edward Albee to Gore Vidal and Maureen Dowd. 7461 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.1800, dgwillsbooks.com French Garden ShoppeCL002709 Provençal charm defines this ohso-pretty boutique in Little Italy. A smattering of garden items shares the space with European home and kitchen accessories, including French pottery, linens, candles, furniture and more, all attractively displayed. 2307 India St., Little Italy, 619.238.4700, frenchgardenshoppe.com Goga by GordanaCL9006839 This Gaslamp Quarter boutique is the brainchild of Serbian fashion designer Gordana Gehlhausen, who you may remember from a recent season of TV’s Project Runway. In addition to her own line of flowing organza dresses, couture gowns and chic tops, the shop also carries styles from up-and-comers like Beulah denim and LCE from Italy.

401 Market St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.564.7660, shopgoga.com

h Gone Bananas BeachwearCL900647 For more than 35 years Gone Bananas’s collection of women’s mixand-match swimwear has been unsurpassed in quality and quantity. With some 15,000 pieces of swimwear, this Mission Beach shop showcases hundreds of designers, including Luli Fama, Beach Bunny, Vitamin A, LSpace and Cover Style with sizes ranging from XXS to E-cup. 3785 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.4900, gonebananasbeachwear.com Grounded Garden ShopCL002708 Find a fresh, modern approach to gardening and design at this spot in Encinitas’ Lumberyard. Among the wares on display are indoor and outdoor furnishings by Herman Miller,

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Blu Dot and Gus Modern along with covetable placemats from Chilewich.

Build up your library with inspirational books devoted to home and garden design. 897 S. Coast Highway 101 #105, Encinitas, 760.230.1563, shopgrounded.com Hunt & GatherCL9006851 This boutique lives up to its name with its array of vintage clothing, accessories and home décor gathered from up and down the West Coast by owner Zoe Crenshaw, who often customizes her finds with embroidery or other touches. 2871 University Ave., North Park, 619.297.3040, huntandgathershop.com La MaisonetteCL90060 With Carla Bruni on the stereo and a showroom filled with country French furniture, this shop is pure Paris.

Find embroidered handkerchiefs, rose-flavored syrups and handcrafted soaps at this La Jolla spot, owned by former runway model Jean Marque and his art-historian wife, Portia, who also design their own signature textile collection. 7631 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.1222, lamaisonnettefrance.com Laura Gambucci CL0027089 Local style maven Laura Gambucci is the expert eye behind this eponymous La Jolla boutique, a favorite among the coastal female fashion set. Clothes are romantic, sexy and sophisticated, au courant but not overly trendy—in other words, quality pieces that are guaranteed a long closet life. Gambucci and her staff are on hand to help every customer find the perfect look. 7629 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.0214

h Leo Hamel Fine JewelersCL9006478 San Diego’s largest full-service jewelry store offers an extensive collection that includes brands like Hearts on Fire, Marco Bicego, Pandora, vintage Tiffany & Co. and pre-owned Rolex and Cartier watches, among others. Family-owned and operated for more than 30 years, Leo Hamel

provides personal shoppers to help customers find the ideal piece in any price range. 1851 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.299.1500, leohamel.com M-Theory Records CL90067 San Diego’s version of the record store in High Fidelity, this shop carries anything from the new Arcade Fire disc to an out-of-print ‘60s soul classic on vinyl. The store has also hosted legendary live performances from acts like Chuck D, Spiritualized, the Hold Steady, Camper Van Beethoven and Switchfoot. 915 W. Washington St., Mission Hills, 619.220.0485, mtheorymusic.com Make Good CL900792 Located on a tree-lined street in South Park, this small shop represents a collective of local crafters whose handmade, upcycled goods range from messenger bags and cuddly owl-shaped pillows to clothing, paintings and jewelry. Think of it as a brick-and-mortar version of Etsy, for locals only. 2207 Fern St., South Park, 619.563.4600, themakegood.com Melero CL9007923 Specializing in emerging European designers not widely distributed in the U.S., Ruth Melero oversees a well-edited lineup of clothing, handbags and jewelry from lines like Sachin + Babi, Paul & Joe Paris, Black Halo, Joanna Louca and Chan Luu at her eponymous shop. 1918 India St., Little Italy, 619.546.4226, melerobg.com Mint Shoes CL0027091 Get well-heeled without spending a mint at this stylish little shoe shop, painted in a modish spearmint, white and red color scheme. Displayed on clear shelves lining tubular walls are flirty flats and heels from young, hip lines like Oliberté and Jeffrey Campbell, and a wide selection of cool urban kicks for women and men. 525 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.291.6468, mintshoes.com

Mister B CL0027092 Find European menswear rarities at this local clothier. Among the merchandise, you’ll find Italian suits from Pal Zileri, sportcoats by Hugo Boss, Versace ties, plus more casual items like polos and shorts.

Tailoring is offered on-site. 162 S. Rancho Santa Fe Road #E70, Rancho Santa Fe, 858.756.5099, misterbattheranch.com MistralCL0027093 Named for the winds that flutter from the Alps into the south of France, Mistral specializes in handcrafted soaps, lotions and fragrances that offer healing and relaxation. The shop’s founders are proud of the natural ingredients used in their products, ranging from fresh lavender to verbena to hand-picked gardenias.

146 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.755.5963, mistralsoap.com MixtureCL0027094 High design struts its stuff at this home furnishings and accessories store housed in the spacious former digs of a 1940s brick warehouse.

The front gate slides wide open to show off an appealing collection of modern and contemporary indoor and outdoor furniture, home and garden accessories, books, candles, jewelry, gift items and even fine art.

2210 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy, 800.903.1913, mixturedesigns.com Molly B Bikinis CL900794 Molly Goforth’s colorful two-pieces are designed, made and custom-fit right here in San Diego’s Ocean Beach neighborhood. Bandeau, halter and triangle tops with matching bottoms are inspired by the longboard-toting, beach-cruising lifestyle of vintage California. 4966-E Santa Monica Ave., Ocean Beach, 619.301.2221, mollybbikinis.com

h Na Hoku Hawaii’s Finest Jewelers Since 1924 CL0027095 Hawaiian for “stars”, Na Hoku captures the Island lifestyle and Hawai-

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ian tradition in its collection of fine jewelry. The store features unique Island-themed lines like the Original Diamond Slipper Pendant, Palm Tree Collection and Hawaii Flowers Collection, plus exquisite designs by well-known jewelry artisans Kabana, Steven Douglas and others.

Many items are set with Tahitian and freshwater pearls, diamonds, colored gemstones and inlays of opal and mother-of-pearl. 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.294.7811 and 165 Horton Plaza, Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.7121, nahoku.com Nicole MillerCL002709 New York designer Nicole Miller’s flirty, feminine dresses give classic silhouettes a modern twist with funky, unforgettable fabrics. Rumor has it she also was the first to coin the term Little Black Dress. You’ll find plenty of those, too, in this airy boutique, which also features Miller’s gorgeous bridal line. 1923 Calle Barcelona #141, Carlsbad, 800.454.3536, nicolemillersd.com

h Nikki & Co. Fine JewelersCL9007954 Behind its ornate grapevine-motif brass gate, this tiny spot comes courtesy of a third-generation jeweler whose family has been in the business since 1948. Inside, find pre-owned fine Swiss watches from names like Patek Philippe, Panerai, Cartier and Breitling as well as antique and estate jewelry and diamonds, some dating back as far as the Victorian era.

562 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.236.0870, nikkifinejewelers.com Noon Designs CL90061 With two San Diego locations, these little retail shops also function as workshop space for owners Nora Alexander and Maie Webb. Graphic designer Webb hand-draws and presses Noon’s adorable cards and stationery while Alexander, trained in industrial design, hand-makes its nature-inspired jewelry line. You’ll also find candles, handmade leather bags and more. 4993 Niagara Ave., Ocean Beach, 619.523.1744 and 349 N. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.436.7417, noondesignshop.com

Pilar’s BeachwearCL002709 Forget about teeny-weeny yellow polka-dot bikinis. At Pilar’s Beachwear, you’ll find every color, shape and size of swimwear imaginable—there are hundreds of brands from which to choose. At this popular Mission Beach shop, which has been suiting up San Diegans for more than 30 years, it doesn’t matter if you’re a Pilates nut or a couch potato: Pilar’s expert staff will help you find something beautiful and flattering, from the tiniest twopiece to the most forgiving cover-up.

3745 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.3056, pilarsbeachwear.com Progress CL9007941 Owned by a design-minded husbandand-wife team, Progress brings a cool, modern vibe to the trendy South Park neighborhood. Most items in the store, from the sculptural cardboard pendant lamps to the benches made from folded-up magazine pages, have an eco twist, and the fun, smart furniture is all sourced from small companies.

You’ll also find candles, jewelry, handbags, cards, kids stuff and more. 2225 30th St., South Park, 619.280.5501, progresssouthpark.com Rangoni Firenze ShoesCL002701 Rangoni Firenze carries a signature handcrafted footwear collection, the elegant Italian line Amalfi By Rangoni, as well as a wide assortment of designer handbags. The spacious salon offers an extensive range of sizes and widths, as well as personalized oneon-one service to help you find the perfect style and fit. 7870 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.459.4469, rangonishoes.com

h SauvageCL9006571 You don’t have to be a Sports Illustrated model to look sexy in the Sauvage line by local designer Elizabeth Southwood—although those bathing beauties have been seen in her bikinis. La Jolla’s Sauvage boutique stocks glamorous beachwear, cover-ups and accessories, all manufactured in San Diego; or choose custom swimwear for a superb fit. 1025 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.729.0015, sauvageswimwear.com Solo CL002701 Located in the trendy Cedros Design District in Solana Beach, this warehouse-like retailer carries all manner of home décor items, stationery and gifts. Find Asian-inspired furniture

by Curio, unique kitchen items, a killer array of inspiring architecture and design books, jewelry from local artisans, eye-popping lighting, baby items and much more. 309 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.794.9016, solocedros.com Sunsplash SwimwearCL0027019 With a vast international selection of swimwear and resort wear, including 200 name brands, SunSplash carries everything from itsy-bitsy Brazilian bikinis to modern designer one-pieces.

Sizes run from 6-16, and SunSplash specialists are trained to find the perfect figure-flattering fit. 979 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, 858.581.3400, sunsplashswimwear.com Sweet PaperCL9007930 Housed in a cottage where the painter Françoise Gilot once lived, this quaint, sunny stationery boutique run by a pair of sisters celebrates the lost art of the handwritten message. For a sentiment that just can’t be translated via Twitter or text, check out their selection of clever, smartly illustrated cards by boutique brands; there’s also a well-curated array of scrapbooking stamps, candles, notebooks, recipe boxes and more. Closed Sundays. 7527 La Jolla Blvd., La Jolla, 858.456.1446, sweet-paper.com

REBECCA MORQUECHO

PigmentCL9006479 Pigment has everything for your home and then some, with sleek modern furniture, flooring and home accessories. Pigment also carries baby items, jewelry, eco-friendly totes by Envirosax, decorative mini-terrariums by local designer Britt Neubacher and limited-edition art prints by co-owner Amy Paul. 3827 30th St., North Park, 619.501.6318, shoppigment.com

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TAYLOR GUITARS CL9006850 Taylor Guitars rest in the hands of famous musicians like Taylor Swift, Prince and Jason Mraz. At the company’s El Cajon factory, you can learn how the guitars are made and even purchase your own axe at the on-site store, which also carries picks, parts, accessories and more. Tours of the factory are offered Mon.-Fri. at 1 pm. 1980 Gillespie Way, El Cajon, 619.258.1207, taylorguitars.com TOURNEAU CL9006501 If a new timepiece sounds tempting, turn to Tourneau, recognized by Guinness World Records for its mind-boggling selection—more than 100 brands and 8,000 styles, including rarities, vintage and limited editions. As an added bonus, Tourneau offers lifetime battery replacement. Fashion Valley Mall, 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.296.8463, tourneau.com THE URBAN SEED CL9007926 This charming home and garden shop inside Old Town State Historic Park traffics in high-quality heirloom vegetable seeds, still weighed on the same antique scale used by Charles Ledgerwood, who founded the place 80 years ago, and stored in the same vintage aluminum bread boxes. Nearly everything in the store was made artisanally, from the etched glass tumblers to the ornate 19th-century Parisian chandelier. 2754 Calhoun St., Old Town, 619.584.7768, urbanseedstore.com VOCABULARYCL0027018 Make this lovely Little Italy boutique a definite stop on any shopping itinerary. Tiffany-blue walls, white moldings and a plush seating area complement the youthful collection of clothing for women and men, as well as jewelry, home accessories and much more. 414 W. Cedar St., Little Italy, 619.544.1100, vocabularyboutique.com WANDERING SAGECL90063 Owner Ilze Ports designs clothing made from eco-cotton and alpaca

wool, produced by a small, familyowned business in Peru. The green boutique also sells embroidered silk scarves, handmade bracelets and other items from artisans from all over the globe—all Fair Trade-certified.

2415 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.487.1189, wanderingsage.com WARWICK’S CL002371 Warwick’s has been a La Jolla institution since it first opened in 1896. Bibliophiles appreciate the wide selection, knowledgeable staff, regular author readings and other literary events. Peruse the independent bookseller’s bestseller and recommended lists for suggestions. Locals also shop there for stationery, office supplies and gift items. 7812 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.0347, warwicks.com

★ WE OLIVECL900796 “You name it, we’ll find a way to get olive oil in it,” says a clerk at this La Jolla shop and wine bar. In addition to California-grown oils in flavors like habanero and porcini mushroom, you’ll also find bread mixes, body balms, lotions and soaps made with olive oil, plus balsamic vinegars, party dips and other gourmet items. 1158 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.8250, weolive.com

★ WESTIMECL9007956 This spacious, 2,500-square-foot boutique in La Jolla village is the first Westime outpost to open outside of Los Angeles. The multi-brand retailer showcases all manner of timepieces, from popular fashion watches to limited-edition selections from the finest Swiss watchmakers. TAG Heuer, Breitling, Bell & Ross, Harry Winston, Franck Muller and Greubel Forsey are among the brands represented. 1227 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.2222, westime.com

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chow time

courtesy alchemy

DINING it’s not all sandy beers and fish tacos in san diego.

WITH AN ARRAY OF FRESH INGREDIENTS AVAILABLE NEARLY YEAR-ROUND, THE CITY’S CULINARY LANDSCAPE IS NOW ON PAR WITH THAT OF the world’s great urban centers. here’s a sampling of what your taste buds have in store.

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DINING ★ 1500 OCEANCL002689 California Cuisine. Located in the classic Hotel del Coronado, 1500 Ocean showcases “Southland coastal cuisine” with a delicious ocean view.

The menu features seasonal culinary offerings sourced from Cabo San Lucas to Santa Ynez, coupled with wines from across the region. Dine on the oceanfront terrace, in the contemporary dining room or private dining cabanas. D (T-Sa). 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.8490, dine1500ocean.com

EL VITRAL

MEXICO, HIGH AND LOW Living 15 miles from an interna-

A.R. VALENTIENCL0026903 California Cuisine. Overlooking the Torrey Pines Golf Course, A.R. Valentien is the signature restaurant of the Craftsman-style Lodge at Torrey Pines. Valentien was an early 20thcentury San Diego impressionist whose work is featured in the dining room.

With Chef Jeff Jackson at the helm, the restaurant aims to use the best seasonal and local produce to create its own masterpieces. L, D (daily); B (SaSu). 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.453.4420, arvalentien.com

tional border has its advantages, especially when the dinner bell rings. From our famous fish tacos to high-end gastronomy, our Mexican food scene runs the gamut. True taco-shop authenticity can be found at Barrio Logan's legendary Las Cuatros Milpas (you’ll know it from the line down the block). Casual sit-down spots are plentiful in Old Town, but we like North Park’s hip El Take

ADDISONCL0026901 French. This fine restaurant overlooking the rolling green golf course at the Grand Del Mar features contemporary French cuisine intricately fused with Mediterranean flavors. Dinner entrées change seasonally, as Executive Chef William Bradley—a James Beard “Rising Star Chef” nominee and Grands Chef Relais & Châteaux—uses the finest and freshest ingredients available.

Sommelier Jesse Rodriguez presides over the Wine Spectator Grand Awardwinning wine list, which includes more than 3,600 producers. D (Tu-Sa). 5200 Grand Del Mar Way, Del Mar, 858.314.1900, addisondelmar.com

It Easy, a "gastrocantina” with exotic options like rabbit cazuelas, plus inventive mescal and tequila cocktails. For an upscale experience, we like the nouvelle Mexican cuisine at downtown's Candelas and El Agave in Old Town, which also boasts a huge tequila selection. Located near the ballpark, El Vitral swaps tequila for singlevillage mescal from Oaxaca. Pair a sipping shot with a mole that’s still made from the chef’s secret, generations-old family recipe.

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ALCHEMYCL900640 International. This low-key neighborhood restaurant serves American comfort food with an international twist. Dishes change with the seasons but standbys include the grass-fed beef burger with house-cured pickles and an array of street food from all over the world. An in-house mixologist shakes and stirs signature cocktails like the Alchemy margarita, served in a glass rimmed with black lava sea salt. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1503 30th St., South Park, 619.255.0616, alchemysandiego.com ARTERRA RESTAURANTCL0026902 California Cuisine. Located at the Marriott Del Mar, this award-winning restaurant specializes in fresh, contemporary seasonal cuisine with Americana influences. Known as a power-lunch spot for area execs, the restaurant’s bar and outdoor lounge are also nice for happy hour, while romantic dinners unfold in the main dining room. Arterra also offers a vast wine list and sushi. L (M-F), D (M-Sa), B (daily). 11966 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.369.6032, arterrarestaurant.com

★ ASTICL900795 Italian. Named after the Piedmont city famous for its sparkling wine and truffles, this brick-walled Gaslamp spot sports a bistro feel and serves Northern Italian cuisine including handmade pasta, fresh seafood and steak specialties. The bustling patio dining area makes for great people-watching along Fifth Avenue. L, D (daily). 728 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.232.8844, astisandiego.com AVENUE 5CL0026904 American. Family-run neighborhood spot boasts a weekly-chang-

ing New American menu featuring seasonal ingredients. Chef Colin MacLaggan’s signature dishes include a burger, a risotto-of-the-day and wild mushroom tortellini in Madeira sauce. Behind the bar, Mike Yen stirs up modern cocktails inspired by molecular gastronomy. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Su). 2760 Fifth Ave. #100, Bankers Hill, 619.542.0394, avenue5restaurant.com BANKERS HILLCL900675 American. Named for the neighborhood that houses it, this restaurant from popular Chef Carl Schroeder (Market) features farm-fresh shareable small plates and entrées like braised pork tacos, pasta bolognese and hangar steak, served in a chic urban-casual setting. The airy interior features quirkily mismatched furniture and yields to a charming enclosed front patio—don’t miss the living tapestry of succulent plants mounted on the wall. D (nightly). 2202 Fourth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.231.0222, bankershillsd.com

C

BENCOTTO ITALIAN KITCHEN069 Italian. Italian for “perfectly cooked,” Bencotto’s been a hit with locals almost since Day One. The menu spotlights heaping portions of housemade pastas, cured meats, artisan cheeses and rich desserts—all served in a modern, airy setting inside the glass-concrete-and-steel walls of Little Italy’s Q Building. L, D (Tu-Su). 750 W. Fir St., Little Italy, 619.450.4786, lovebencotto.com BERTRAND AT MR. A'SCL0026906 American. Step into the foyer of this smart uptown office building and you’d have no inkling of the wonders going on 12 stories above your head.

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SPECTACULAR

WATERFRONT DINING Enjoy breathtaking views of the coastline while you dine on fresh fish specialties, award-winning prime rib and the Original Hot Chocolate Lava Cake. Chart House is your place for outstanding cuisine and impeccable service.

JOIN US FOR HAPPY HOUR!

2588 S. COAST HWY. 101 CARDIFF • 760.436.4044 online reservations at

CHART-HOUSE.COM

Escape to Coronado Island Peohe’s offers guests an island-inspired menu featuring an eclectic mix of fresh seafood, mouthwatering steaks, new wave sushi and more.

Enjoy Peohe’s all new modern decor and stunning waterfront view of the San Diego skyline.

JOIN US FOR HAPPY HOUR!

1201 FIRST STREET CORONADO FERRY LANDING 619.437.4474 ONLINE RESERVATIONS AT

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Undoubtedly one of the most exciting places to eat in San Diego, Bertrand’s sits above downtown San Diego, with sweeping views that stretch from Tijuana to Orange County. Watch jetliners bob their way down to the runway at Lindbergh Field airport and enjoy some of the best food served anywhere. Add old-fashioned excellent service to the mix and even the most jaded diner will be impressed. L (MF), D (nightly). 2550 Fifth Ave., 12th floor, Bankers Hill, 619.239.1377, bertrandatmisteras.com BiceCL9006842 Italian. Local version of the international chain begun by Beatrice “Bice” Ruggeri, this sleek spot brings Milanese authenticity to the heart of downtown. The menu changes weekly and features local, seasonal ingredients in entrées like osso buco.

Don’t miss the salumi and cheese bar, with dozens of varieties of fresh and aged cheeses and meats. D (nightly). 425 Island Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.239.2423, bicesandiego.com BlancaCL0026907 California Cuisine. Think style, minimalism and cool. This trendy place a short gallop from the Del Mar Racetrack serves up high-end CaliforniaFrench cuisine. Chef Gavin Schmidt creates fancifully named entrées including Day on the Farm, featuring a leek “soil,” baby vegetables and pork five ways. Praised by practically every publication in San Diego, there’s no doubt that this is one of the places to see and be seen, especially during racing season. D (M-Sa). 437 S. Coast Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.792.0072, dineblanca.com Blue Point Coastal CuisinE Seafood. This San Francisco-style supper club was the first seafood restaurant to drop anchor in the Gaslamp; these days, it’s popular with both local and visiting oyster aficionados. The décor is classy and the view of bustling Fifth Avenue is unsurpassed. Book ahead to experi-

ence “The Experience,” an 11-course tasting menu featuring James Beardnominated Chef Daniel Barron’s modern “molecular” cuisine. D (nightly). 565 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.6623, dinecrg.com Blue Ribbon Artisan Pizzeria California Cuisine. Blue Ribbon’s chef came from helming one of San Diego’s fanciest kitchens to serving pizzas at his own casual spot in the Lumberyard. But Chef Wade Hageman’s commitment to quality remains unchanged, and every local, organic ingredient on these artisan pies is as excellent as you’d find in any five-star restaurant, from the handstretched Mozzarella to the housemade Berkshire pork sausage. Don’t miss the butterscotch pudding. L (W-Su), D (nightly). 897 S. Coast Highway 101 #F102, Encinitas, 760.634.7671, blueribbonpizzeria.com BO Beau Kitchen + BarCL900791 French. Embracing its surroundings in casual Ocean Beach, BO Beau is a pretension-free bistro serving simple, hearty French classics prepared by a young, Paris-trained chef whose resume includes internships at the French Laundry and Manhattan’s WD-50.

The menu features pork belly croque madame, five different preparations of moules frites (mussels with fries) and the popular crispy Brussels sprouts with pancetta and Parmesan cheese, not to mention craft cocktails. 4996 W. Point Loma Blvd., Ocean Beach, 619.224.2884, bobeaukitchen.com

h Brian’s 24 Restaurant, Bar and GrillCL9006508 American. Next time you need to feed a 2 am craving for fried chicken and waffles, head to Brian’s 24, where big plates of comfort food are served around the clock. Breakfast is especially popular at this downtown eatery with an open kitchen and gleaming mahogany bar. B, L, D (daily, 24 hours). 828 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.8410, brians24.com

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h Café 222CL0026901 Breakfast. A line out the door tells you that this dog-friendly downtown breakfast and lunch spot is worth the wait. Don’t worry, it doesn’t take long to get a table—there’s plenty of seating inside and out. For 15 years, Café 222’s quirky charm (cup-andsaucer chandeliers, mismatched plates) and creative cuisine (Porky Benedict, Orange-Pecan Pancakes) have made it a local favorite. The chef/owner, who’s been featured on the Food Network, describes the menu selections as updated versions of what your mom used to make.

Wakey wakey, it’s time for breaky.

B, L (daily). 222 Island Ave., downtown, 619.236.9902, cafe222.com Café ChloeCL002691 French. Aiming to bring some French culture to S.D.’s hippest hood, Café Chloe is intimate and charming, with creative and exciting French fare. The New York Times and the Boston Globe were wowed by this café, and not just for its proximity to the ballpark. B, L, D (daily); Br (SaSu). 721 Ninth Ave. #1, East Village, 619.232.3242, cafechloe.com

h Café CoyoteCL9006509 Mexican/Southwestern. For more than two decades, Old Town’s Café Coyote has served up authentic Mexican fare with flair, from fresh tortillas made on site to festive mariachis that stroll through fragrant outdoor courtyards. And don’t forget the tasty margaritas.

B, L, D (daily). 2461 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.291.4695, cafecoyoteoldtown.com.

Café JapengoCL002691 Japanese. Located in the restaurant village of the Aventine, Café Japengo is a stylish and sophisticated lunch and dinner spot across from the Hyatt Regency La Jolla. The restaurant’s specialty is sushi, which it takes very seriously, with an alwaysbusy sushi bar and a la carte delights that range from traditional to

modern. L (M-F), D (nightly). 8960 University Center Lane, La JollaGolden Triangle, 858.450.3355, cafejapengo.com

h Café SevillaCL0026931 International. If you’re just mad about saffron—and the cuisine and culture of España, for that matter— head to downtown’s Café Sevilla.

In a rustic, Spanish-themed dining room with matador art on the walls and a huge tin bull installed above the bar, feast on rich tapas such as olives, paella, pork skewers, empanadas and fresh seafood. Pitchers of fragrant sangria and live flamenco dinner shows will have you shouting “Olé!” D (nightly). 353 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.5979 cafesevilla.com

h CandelasCL900794 Mexican/Southwestern. A sexy, candlelit atmosphere defines the downtown location of this chic Mexico City-style eatery, whose sister spot at Coronado’s Ferry Landing has priceless bay and skyline views.

On the menu, find dishes like tequila-flambéed lobster tail or steamed, ahi-stuffed artichoke hearts in zucchini flower sauce. D (nightly) at both locations; additional Br (Su), L (M-F) in Coronado only. 416 Third Ave., downtown, 619.702.4455 and 1201 First St. #115, Coronado, 619.435.4900, candelas-sd.com

a True Italian Experience in the Gaslamp Quarter open 7 days a week happy hour daily 3-6 pm 728 5th Avenue San Diego CA 92101

619.232.8844 www.AstiSanDiego.com

h Casa de BandiniCL9007950 Mexican/Southwestern. Located in the outdoor Forum at Carlsbad shopping center, Casa de Bandini channels old Mexico, from the handmade lanterns, bubbling fountain and colorful folk art that decorate the space to the regional classics cooking in the kitchen. Famous for its giant margaritas, the restaurant’s vast menu includes shrimp and mango tacos, a carnitas burrito, seafood specialties, breakfast options and more. L, D (daily). 1901 Calle Barcelona, Carlsbad, 760.634.3443, casadebandini.com

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h Casa GuadalajaraCL0026941 Mexican/Southwestern. Find traditional Mexican cuisine in a haciendastyle setting at this Old Town favorite not far from historical attractions and shopping. The menu features regional specialties such as enchiladas and burritos, as well as a wide selection of seafood. Dine indoors or on the shaded patio in the lush courtyard garden. Pitchers of frosty margaritas, strolling mariachis and festive décor complete the experience. B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 4105 Taylor St., Old Town, 619.295.5111, casaguadalajara.com CeladonCL0026951 Thai. This stylish Hillcrest spot is the place for Thai for many locals. The restaurant offers a mouth-watering selection of traditional and modern Thai dishes served in an elegant lounge whose chic décor is alive with texture and mood, defined by lacquered surfaces in the lounge and a sleek chartreuse-and-white color scheme in the dining room. D (nightly). 3671 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.297.8424, celadonrestaurant.com

h Chart HouseCL0026971 American. From coast to coast, the Chart House is synonymous with exceptional waterfront dining. At the Cardiff location, enjoy panoramic views of the Pacific—sliding glass doors open to bring crashing waves and spectacular sunsets that much closer. The menu includes Chart House standards—the macadamiacrusted mahi or slow-roasted prime rib, for example—as well as dishes that take advantage of local seafood offerings and regional flavors.

L (W-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2588 S. Coast Highway 101, Cardiff, 760.436.4044, chart-house.com Cowboy StarCL0026981 Steak. This downtown steakhouse, with its exposed-beam ceilings, large leather booths, stark landscape photography and cozy fireplace, brings a touch of Old West style to the neighborhood.

The adjacent butcher shop ensures that

the meats, like the USDA Prime 35-day dry-aged beef, are top quality. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 640 10th Ave., East Village, 619.450.5880, thecowboystar.com Craft + CommerceCL9007920 American. As the name implies, this often-packed Little Italy bar/ restaurant is a union of strange bedfellows, right down to the quirky décor (urban-industrial meets library chic). On the menu, hearty dishes like bone marrow and fried chicken are complemented by a rotating selection of two dozen craft beers and potent old-fashioned cocktails. L, D (daily). 675 W. Beech St., Little Italy, 619.269.2202, craft-commerce.com Croce’sCL002690 American. If it’s downtown buzz you’re after, head to Croce’s, owned and operated by Ingrid Croce, whose late husband was singer/songwriter Jim Croce. Located in a cavernous building in the heart of downtown’s dining and party scene, Croce’s offers great American dining in a lively setting. B, L (Sa-Su); D (nightly). 802 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.4355, croces.com

h Crown RoomCL002691 Breakfast. Wizard of Oz author L. Frank Baum is credited for designing the crown chandeliers that hang from the Crown Room’s 33-foot-high, vaulted pine ceiling.

Today’s visitors can soak in the historic elegance while savoring the gourmet Sunday brunch created at multiple distinct dining stations. Options might include made-to-order omelets, waffles, cheeses and charcuterie, shellfish, prime rib, desserts and such kick-starting classics as mimosas and Bloody Marys. 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.8490, hoteldel.com/dining Cucina UrbanaCL0026948 Italian. This always-bustling hotspot in Bankers Hill features antipasti, pizza and pasta from Chef Joe Magnanelli, as well as a retail wine shop

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heavy on Italian varietals. The cozy neighborhood kitchen’s chic décor combines contemporary touches with vintage accents. Don’t miss the ricotta-stuffed fried squash blossoms. L (T-F), D (nightly). 505 Laurel St., Bankers Hill, 619.239.2222, cucinaurbana.com Donovan’sCL002692 Steak. Donovan’s is a true-blue steakhouse, from the mahogany and delicate lighting to the mouthwatering Prime cuts of beef that define the classic menu. The restaurant also serves top-quality pork and veal chops and fresh seafood, coupled with hearty sides.

Perfect for business and romantic dinners. D (M-Sa in La Jolla; nightly downtown). 4340 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla-Golden Triangle, 858.450.6666 and 570 K St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.237.9700, donovanssteakhouse.com El AgaveCL002694 Mexican/Southwestern. This upstairs spot near Old Town State Historic Park has innovative nouvelle Mexican cuisine—think: blue masa tlacoyos and cactus-leaf salad—and several hundred varieties of the finest tequila on the market.

Dine indoors or on the sunlit patio. L, D (daily). 2304 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.220.0692, elagave.signonsandiego.com El BizcochoCL002695 French. This elegant eatery in an exclusive neighborhood has a long history as a top fine-dining spot, but the chefs at the helm of this local institution have been anything but stodgy. Top toque Gavin Kaysen made his name here; current Executive Chef Nicolas Bour has cooked for two presidents.

The Old World décor, semi-rural setting and extensive wine list make this a peaceful yet exciting alternative to San Diego’s urban centers. D (Tu-Sa), Br (Su). 17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive, Rancho Bernardo, 858.675.8550, ranchobernardoinn.com/bizcocho

El Take It EasyCL900792 Mexican/Southwestern. No burritos at this cool, urban Tijuana-inspired “gastrocantina” in North Park.

Instead, try the house-cured country ham, pork belly tacos or rabbit cazuela, all made with sustainably grown ingredients sourced from small family farms. Wash it down with a craft beer, cool wine spritzer or something from the cocktail list, which leans heavily on bourbons, tequilas and single-village mescals. L (F-Su), D (nightly). 3926 30th St., North Park, 619.291.1859, eltakeiteasy.com Extraordinary DessertsCL00269 Desserts. The desserts at these two intimate restaurants are truly extraordinary. The cozy original location in Hillcrest became so popular that the owners opened another in Little Italy.

The menu changes daily but always includes a mouth-watering array of decadent and delicious desserts. The spacious, modern Little Italy location also serves paninis, salads and bruschetta. Open daily. 1430 Union St., Little Italy, 619.294.7001 and 2929 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest 619.294.2132, extraordinarydesserts.com FlavorCL9007932 California Cuisine. This airy, elegantly low-key hangout at Del Mar Plaza features a Pacific Ocean view and showcases the food of Chef Jason Maitland, who turns out a cuisine he describes as “Coastal California contemporary.” Think: raw starters, market-fresh salads, slow-cooked natural meats and housemade pastas. L, D (daily). 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.755.3663, flavordelmar.com

h The FleetwoodCL900642 American. This 6,200-square-foot restaurant, bar and lounge near the ballpark features specialty drinks, an extensive wine-by-the-glass list, bottle service, patio dining, comfy couches and sports galore, broadcast on nine flat-screen TVs and two large HD projection screens. The American comfort cuisine comes cour-

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tesy of Executive Chef Mark Bolton, whose seasonal menus focus on regional ingredients. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 639 J St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.7700, thefleetwood.com George’s at the CoveCL0026931 California Cuisine. This foodiefriendly La Jolla landmark offers three distinct dining experiences and a side of picture-perfect ocean views.

Hang out in the laidback George’s Bar before sampling Chef Trey Foshee’s daily menu of inventive California cuisine in the upscale George’s California Modern dining room. The rooftop Ocean Terrace is a favorite weekend spot with its casual bistro fare. L, D (daily). 1250 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.4244, georgesatthecove.com Grant GrillCL002693 California Cuisine. Grant Grill’s been a downtown power spot for business and political leaders since it opened in 1951. The legendary restaurant reopened in 2006 with a renovated interior and menu. Dark woods, leather booths and crisp white linens provide a sophisticated backdrop for contemporary California cuisine. Movers and shakers only interested in shaken or stirred, take note—the bar makes a mean martini.

B, L, D (daily). 326 Broadway, downtown, 619.744.2077, grantgrill.com

h Greystone Steak. The flavors and culinary traditions of Europe, America and the Pacific Rim converge at Greystone.

The steakhouse features Prime-aged meats, seafood and fresh pastas, as well as an extensive wine selection.

Dine alfresco on the sidewalk patio, or escape the Gaslamp crowds and cozy up to Greystone’s mezzanine fireplace. D (nightly). 658 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.232.0225, greystonethesteakhouse.com Serving San Diego since 1961, this Old Town legend is famous for delicious Scampi Giulio, homemade pastas, seafood and veal. Patio dining. Full bar.

2391 San Diego Ave., Old Town • (619) 294-2074 • www.jackandgiulios.com

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Hash House a Go GoCL002693 Breakfast. Famous for its kingsized portions, the Hash House is

where San Diegans go when they’re hungry. Really hungry. Always bustling with locals, the restaurant’s decadent and delightful food often warrants a doggy bag. The setting is casual and friendly, with one of the city’s hippest neighborhoods just steps away. Expect a long wait for weekend brunch. B, L (daily); D (Tu-Su). 3628 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.298.4646, hashhouseagogo.com

h Humphreys RestaurantCL0026937 Seafood. This San Diego landmark, which offers waterfront dining, an extensive wine list and live music every night of the week, has raised the level of sophistication with a fresh look and flavor. The menu features contemporary global cuisine with eco-friendly ingredients, including sustainable seafood, local produce and farm-raised beef. The elegant interior complements one of the finest views in town. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577, humphreysrestaurant.com Indigo GrillCL0026938 Eclectic/Fusion. Even as competition has sprouted up around it, Little Italy’s Indigo Grill continues to reign as a neighborhood favorite. Awardwinning Chef Deborah Scott’s flavors span the West Coast, from Alaska to Oaxaca in the south of Mexico. The Indian corn pudding and butternut squash soup have legendary status among locals. The eye-catching décor mixes the primitive and the refined, a reflection of the fusion fare, and the crowd ranges from post-work to big-evening-out. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1536 India St., Little Italy, 619.234.6802, dinecrg.com

Island PrimeCL002693 Seafood. This waterfront restaurant’s floor-to ceiling windows look out upon a stunning panorama of the San Diego harbor and skyline, a scene that is complemented by sleek modern décor: clean lines, dark wood and soothing, pale shades of

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VOTED BEST MEXICAN

2005, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2010 & 2011!

Traditional Mexican Food in the Heart of Historic Old Town 2461 San Diego Avenue • 619.291.4695 • www.cafecoyoteoldtown.com

green and orange. Steaks and seafood are served in the dining room, while the more laid-back C Level Lounge has creative, casual entrées, salads and sandwiches. L, D (daily). 880 Harbor Island Drive, Harbor Island, 619.298.6802, islandprime.com

h Jack and Giulio’s CL0026940 Italian. Formerly known as Giulio’s of Pacific Beach, this family-operated, Italian restaurant in Old Town is a perennial favorite. A sure menu bet is the scampi alla Giulio, served since 1961 and befitting its proud name. Also choose from homemade pastas, veal, poultry, beef and fresh seafood—all just waiting to be paired with a robust Italian wine. Full bar. D (nightly). 2391 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.294.2074, jackandgiulios.com Jayne’s GastropubCL0026942 International. Elevated pub fare is the order of the day at this quaint uptown eatery, run by British expat Jayne Battle. Dishes include a fancy take on fish ‘n’ chips, with Newcastle-battered sea bass and sauteed snap peas, while the cocktail list revives some beloved classics, from Old Fashioneds to Ward Eights.

French-style décor, a charming patio and a lively open kitchen round out the ambience. D (Tu-Sa). 4677 30th St., Normal Heights, 619.563.1011, jaynesgastropub.com

JRDNCL0026943 California Cuisine. The beachfront hotel Tower23 upped the culinary ante in Pacific Beach when it launched JRDN. Dramatic lighting, teak-wood accents and water and fire features are part of the ultra-modern décor. Dine indoors or out on the patio—gorgeous ocean views abound.

JRDN’s menu features contemporary California fresh cuisine (steaks and seafood) with an emphasis on seasonal flavors. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su); B (daily) during summer. 4551 Ocean Blvd., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736, jrdn.com

JsixCL002694 California Cuisine. Jazzy and contemporary, Jsix is a great spot to unwind and get your groove on. In the middle of the downtown action, the Jsix dining room swaps boring beige for bright colors and original flourishes—check out the wall of fezzes. Chef Christian Graves’ menu takes care to spotlight plenty of local produce and housemade garnishes. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 616 J St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.531.8744, jsixsandiego.com Kensington GrillCL0026946 American. The elegant, minimalist interior complements Chef J.C. Colón’s upscale comfort food with a global twist, making this a favorite haunt of locals for more than 15 years.

Popular with a young, hip clientele, Ken Grill’s food is adventurous and exceptionally executed. Bacon lovers should try the Hog Bar, a quartet of porky creations served on a rustic wood board. D (nightly). 4055 Adams Ave., Kensington, 619.281.4014, urbankitchengroup.com Kitchen 1540CL0026946 California Cuisine. Farm-to-table is the concept at this eatery at L’Auberge Del Mar hotel. James Beard “Rising Star” Chef Paul McCabe crafts dishes like whole roasted Tai snapper and pan-seared black cod, all with seasonal accompaniments. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1540 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.793.6460, laubergedelmar.com/kitchen1540

h La PiñataCL0026947 Mexican/Southwestern. Located in a house where Mexican food has been served since the 1920s, La Piñata continues the tradition, offering a host of flavorful Mexican favorites like fajitas, carnitas, pork chile verde, carne asada and shrimp. Drinks and eats are served in festive, fiesta-style dining rooms—one with golf course views— or on the color-drenched patio, accompanied by live mariachi music. L, D (daily). 2836 Juan St., Old Town, 619.297.1631, lapinataoldtown.com

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Marine RoomCL0026950 French. With arguably the best food and location in town, the Marine Room sits practically in the ocean at La Jolla Shores beach. Come during high tide, when the waves lap against the window panes and the surfers look like they could hit the windows at any moment. The food is outrageously innovative and exceptional; the service is formal, but not stuffy, and the ambiance is second to none. D (nightly). 2000 Spindrift Drive, La Jolla, 858.459.7222, marineroom.com MarketCL0026951 California Cuisine. Innovative food from chef/owner Carl Schroeder has made Market a winner for local gourmands and visitors to the nearby racetrack. Schroeder gets his vegetables fresh daily from nearby Chino Farms and the dinner menu changes nightly. D (nightly). 3702 Via de la Valle, Del Mar, 858.523.0007, marketdelmar.com

Mediterranean RoomCL900657 Mediterranean. Chef Lance Repp’s menu meanders through regional flavors from Spain to North Africa to Greece and beyond. Entrées like grilled lamb chops with couscous and tzatziki and paella Valenciana, with assorted shellfish and Spanish chorizo, are served in the ocean-view dining room inside the historic La Valencia Hotel or on the adjoining patio. Sister restaurant Sky Room, on the hotel’s 10th floor, offers panoramic views of the La Jolla coast. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su) at Mediterranean Room. D (W-Su) at Sky Room. 1132 Prospect St., La Jolla 858.454.0771, lavalencia.com Mille FleursCL0026953 French. Mille Fleurs is one of San Diego’s top special-occasion restaurants. At this out-of-the-way location in tony Rancho Santa Fe, you’ll find elegant haute cuisine in a setting of unparalleled grace. French owner Bertrand has been in the business forever and has risen to the top of his game.

The menu of spectacular French fare changes daily depending on what’s

freshly available at nearby Chino Farms. L (Tu-F), D (nightly). 6009 Paseo Delicias, Rancho Santa Fe, 858.756.3085, millefleurs.com Mission CafésCL0026954 Breakfast. The Mission Cafés are a San Diego institution. Show up here on a weekend morning and find a crowd of locals and visitors eager to get at the delicious egg scrambles, health-food specials and delectable rosemary potatoes. The Mission had a healthy, hearty “power” menu long before most restaurants caught on to the fact that tofu sells just as well as bacon. The Mexican fusion dishes are also superb. Come hungry. B, L (daily). 2801 University Ave., North Park, 619.220.8992; 3795 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.9060 and 1250 J St., East Village, 619.232.7662, themission1.signonsandiego.com MistralCL9006843 Mediterranean. Chef Patrick Ponsaty, a fifth-generation toque with 15 Michelin stars to his credit, leads the ocean-view dining room at the Loews Coronado Bay Resort. Mistral cultivates many of its own fruits, vegetables and herbs in the resort’s 3,800-squarefoot garden and sources additional ingredients from local farmers, fishermen and artisans to create signature dishes like sautéed wild sea bass with orange blossom mousse. D (Tu-Sa). 4000 Coronado Bay Road, Coronado, 619.424.4000, dineatmistral.com Nine-TenCL0026957 California Cuisine. The outdoor tables at this über-classy spot in the Grande Colonial hotel make people-watching on La Jolla’s main thoroughfare a delight. The food is also delightful, with innovative offerings and an elaborate, award-winning wine list. The seasonally-changing dinner menu offers a mix of classic and contemporary in dishes like the forktender port-braised short ribs topped with chanterelle mushroom foam. B, L, D (daily). 910 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.964.5400, nine-ten.com

THE POSEIDON RESTAURANT On the Beach

1670 Coast Blvd. Del Mar (858) 755-9345 www.theposeidonrestaurant.com

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G L O B A L V IN E Y A R D IN S P IR E D

C U IS IN E

PA N O R A M I C COA STA L V I E W S W O R L D LY W I N E S E L EC T I O N S LIVE MUSIC 5480 grand pacific drive carlsbad, ca 92008 760.827.2500

www.twenty 20 grill.com

NobuCL9006721 Japanese. After conquering New York, Los Angeles, Miami, London and Las Vegas, celebrity Chef Nobu Matsuhisa brings his global brand to downtown San Diego with this sleek spot in the Hard Rock Hotel. You’ll find a raw bar as well as signature hot dishes including black cod with miso and abalone in garlic sauce, when it’s in season. D (nightly). 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.814.4124, noburestaurants.com/sandiego Ocean HouseCL002695 American. Ocean House has been a longtime local staple, thanks in no small part to its location. Housed in a historic building in the heart of Carlsbad village, Ocean House is a fun beachside eatery in the traditional sense. Classic appetizers like Buffalo wings complement a menu of hearty pastas, chicken, steaks and seafood. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 300 Carlsbad Village Drive, Carlsbad, 760.729.4131, oceanhousecarlsbad.com

h Oceanaire Seafood RoomCL0026958

This is the place you’ve heard everyone talking about!

Seafood. No pesky iceberg will ruin your experience at Oceanaire.

The retro supper club has the feel of an elegant 1930s ocean liner— all dark woods, sleek curves and crisp white linens—but it’s docked safely in the middle of the Gaslamp.

Such vintage-style luxury is the perfect backdrop for seafood so fresh it tastes just plucked from the sea. Perch at the Oyster Bar and throw back some decadent mollusks and a dirty martini. Or slide into a cozy, high-backed leather booth and take your pick from the high-end restaurant’s changing menu, printed daily. Sides are a la carte. Bon voyage. D (nightly).

400 J St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.858.2277, theoceanaire.com

Open 7 days a week 6:30 am – 2:30 pm

520 Front street, just south of market downtown san diego 619-231-7777 richardwalkers.com

tower. Prime-aged meats are also on the menu, along with pastas and a wide array of seafood appetizers and entrées. D (nightly). 904 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.239.1800, osetrafishhouse.com

h Osteria PanevinoCL002691 Italian. In Italy, pane and vino are an essential part of the national cuisine, which is meant to be enjoyed at a leisurely pace with plenty of conversation. Osteria Panevino feels like an authentic Tuscan eatery. The rustic farmhouse ambience, lengthy wine list and housemade Italian pastas conjure the sights, sounds and smells of the Old World right in the heart of the Gaslamp. L, D (daily). 722 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.595.7959, osteriapanevino.com Pacifica Del MarCL002692 Seafood. This upscale California coastal seafood restaurant in Del Mar Plaza shows Zen influence with its artful ambiance and ocean-view setting. Award-winning Chef Evan Cruz oversees a decadent menu that includes pan-roasted seabass, grilled house-cured rib-eye in Zinfandel sauce and filet mignon with foie gras butter and bacon mac ‘n’ cheese. L, D (daily). 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.0476, pacificadelmar.com Pamplemousse grilleCL002693 French. Jeffrey Strauss is one of San Diego’s most sought-after chefs, offering a menu of innovative and stylish cuisine that makes the most of local produce. Popular with the North County in-crowd and the racing set alike, this restaurant near the Del Mar Racetrack has a quirky, elegant interior that prominently features paintings by artist Rod Knutson. L (F), D (nightly). 514 Via de la Valle, Del Mar, 858.792.9090, pgrille.com

h Osetra Seafood. Indulge in caviar, vodka and oysters at this progressive eatery, whose three-sided bar encircles a dramatic three-story wine

h Peohe’sCL002694 Seafood. From the waterfall in the foyer to the giant palm fronds and lava rock throughout the tiered

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dining room, this waterfront restaurant is a tropical treasure. Indulge in Island-style dining against the jawdropping, floor-to-ceiling views of San Diego Bay and the downtown skyline. Not surprisingly, fresh seafood with a Polynesian flair and sushi are top-selling items. Peohe’s is accessible by land or water—just pull your yacht to the dock. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1201 First St., Coronado 619.437.4474, peohes.com PiattiCL002695 Italian. With its charming courtyard patios, Piatti’s simple, simply delicious cuisine guarantees a crowd every night. Uncontrived food with traditional Italian influences and contemporary execution are the secrets of this local gem. Don’t let the fact that it’s a chain put you off— Piatti La Jolla is one-of-a-kind. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2182 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla, 858.454.1589, piatti.com

h PoseidonCL900645 American. Poseidon’s beach-front deck offers a relaxed dining experience day or night. Dinner entrées such as bone-in rib-eye rubbed with rosemary and Kona coffee, cioppino and Thai tofu stir-fry in a coconut peanut sauce make up the contemporary, eclectic menu.

L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

1670 Coast Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.9345, poseidonrestaurant.com

h The Prado at Balboa Park6 International. Nestled among the museums and attractions in Balboa Park, The Prado takes the trophy for prime location. With its vibrant décor and eclectic international tapas, the restaurant is a contender for citywide favorite. Spanish Revival architecture, kaleidoscopic hand-blown glass and unparalleled alfresco views on the terrace serve as a lovely backdrop to California cuisine with Latin and Mediterranean influences. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). 1549 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.557.9441 dinecrg.com

R Gang EateryCL9007921 American. Top Chef alum Rich Sweeney runs this colorful, clubhouse-like comfort-food spot with a lively open-air patio. The kitchen serves up favorites like smoked gouda mac ‘n’ cheese, Portobello fries and three different flavors of tater tot daily, from bacon-blue cheese to Chicken Cordon Bleu. Sunday brunch is happenin’ with bottomless mimosas, Spam eggs Benedict and more. L (T-Th), D (Tu-Su), Br (F-Su). 3683 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.677.2845 rgangeatery.com RamaCL00269 Thai. Balancing the delicate and the dramatic, this stylish Thai spot features an intimate back dining room defined by a wall-sized waterfall.

Crunchy, aromatic spring rolls prepare the palate for mouth-watering spicy curries and drunken noodles. Executive Chef Pannuwat Soukjai trained at Thailand’s Royal Culinary Institute, so authenticity is guaranteed. L (M-F), D (nightly). 327 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.501.8424 ramarestaurant.com

h redfield’s sports barsCpoL9007961 American. This comfortable sports bar at the Manchester Grand Hyatt features several HD TVs tuned to the big game and a menu of eats to match: prime rib sliders, buffalo chili nachos, Kobe beef hot dogs and wings with six different dipping sauces, plus a full cocktail bar. L, D (daily). 1 Market Place, Embarcadero, 619.232.1234 manchestergrandhyattsandiego.com/ lounges-bars Red Pearl KitchenCL0026970 Chinese. This Pan-Asian spot brings exotic glamour to the Gaslamp with its lacquered red walls, dark furnishings and birdcage lanterns, which feel lifted from a 1940s Shanghai supper club. The small-plates menu includes sushi, dim sum, hot pots, desserts and couture cocktails. D (nightly). 440 J St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.231.1100 redpearlkitchen.com

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h Richard Walker’s

Humphreys Restaurant

Pancake HouseCL0026972 Breakfast. Since 1948, the Walker family has been serving gourmet breakfast and lunch favorites. The fine-dining chain originated in the Chicago area and made its way to San Diego in Summer 2006, opening at the base of the Pinnacle Museum Tower in the Marina District, downtown. Choose from classic griddlecakes, crepes, omelets and much more; Richard Walker’s even offers breakfast selections from the ovens of Brittany. The weekend wait looks long, but is orderly and moves quickly.

B, L (daily). 520 Front St., downtown, 619.231.7777, richardwalkers.com

Waterfront Dining featuring Modern Global Cuisine Award-winning wine list San Diego’s favorite Sunday Brunch Live music nightly in Humphreys Backstage LIVE

2241 Shelter Island Drive humphreysrestaurant.com 619.224.3577 la pinata 2007:Layout 1 6/26/08 12:51 •PM Page 1

RoppongiCL0026973 Eclectic/Fusion. This popular Eastmeets-West eatery is helmed by Chef Stephen Window, who brings expertise in classic French technique and a savviness for Pacific Rim flavors.

Savor inventive sushi rolls and buttery sashimi, or choose from the tapas menu, which includes sesame-crusted tiger shrimp, dynamite shrimp with crabmeat and crispy tofu with miso ginger, ginger soy and red pimiento dipping sauces. The wine list has earned Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence several years running. L, D (daily). 875 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.5252, roppongiusa.com

h Sally’s Seafood on the WaterCL9007961 Seafood. Chef Sarah Linkenheil presides over this marine venue at the Manchester Grand Hyatt, which comes complete with knockout views and an exhibition kitchen. The seafood-heavy menu includes creations like phyllo-wrapped black cod as well as crab cakes with tomato relish and Old Bay aioli. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1 Market Place, Embarcadero, 619.358.6740, sallyssandiego.com

Mexican Restaurant

2836 Juan St., San Diego • 619.297.1631 Old Town’s oldest restaurant, La Piñata is a local favorite for lunch, dinner and cocktails. Live Mariachi; heated patio; free parking.

SbiccaCL002697 American. Expect a lively scene at this locals’ favorite. Food and wine enthusiasts return time and again for modern

American cuisine with a twist of the Mediterranean. For lunch, gourmet salad and sandwich options abound. Dinner features mouth-watering entrées such as spicy cioppino and bourbonglazed pork prime rib. The seaside bistro offers four dining areas, including the sought-after patio with a view— make reservations to ensure a spot. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 215 15th St., Del Mar, 858.481.1001, sbiccabistro.com SearsuckerCL9007928 American. At this always-hopping Gaslamp Quarter hotspot, fedorawearing Top Chef finalist Brian Malarkey crafts a bold, flavorful menu that ranges from a mammoth 32-oz. ribeye steak to mini appetizer bites.

The enormous space features an exhibition kitchen and see-and-be-seen square bar, where guests can sip on drinks designed by Snake Oil Cocktail Company. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 611 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.7327, searsucker.com

h Soleil @KCL0026978 Mediterranean. Everything at this restaurant at the Marriott Gaslamp feels touched by the sun, from the open-air dining to the wine selections from California vineyards. Dine and people-watch indoors or out on the street-level patio. On warm days, floor-to-ceiling glass walls slide open to usher in the harbor breeze. Organic ingredients enliven dishes such as ahi crusted with furikake, a Japanese seasoning, and free-range jidori chicken with asparagus. To sweeten the deal, Soleil @k offers simple treats like vanilla crème brûlée topped with fresh berries. B, L, D (daily). 660 K St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.446.6088, soleilatk.com StarliteCL900670 California Cuisine. Behind its octagonal entryway, this hip, sleek bar/ restaurant spotlights farm-to-table cuisine—including one of the town’s top burgers, served on a buttery brioche bun—and signature cocktails including the Starlite Mule, served in a rustic copper mug. Don’t miss the stunning

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chandelier suspended over the sunken bar. 21+ only. D (nightly), Br (Su). 3175 India St., Midtown, 619.358.9766, starlitesandiego.com Stone Brewing World Bistro and GardensCL900649 Brewpubs. Known for “big character” beers with clever names like Arrogant Bastard and Ruination IPA, Stone’s enormous North County brewery serves beer-friendly food made from organic, local ingredients—many from their own nearby farm—and also offers a behind-the-scenes tour, complete with free samples. L, D (daily).

1999 Citracado Parkway, Escondido, 760.471.4999, stonebrew.com

h TapenadeCL0026980 French. Epicures flock to this critically acclaimed French restaurant, where veteran NYC Chef JeanMichel Diot creates robust, enticing flavors that honor his Provençal roots.

Choose from a number of menus, including lunch (salads, soups, light entrées) and dinner options (from caviar to filet au poivre), as well as tasting selections, vegetarian options and les fromages et desserts. And, of course, vin. L (Tu-F), D (nightly). 7612 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.7500, tapenaderestaurant.com

h Twenty/20 Grill and Wine BarCL9007958 California Cuisine. This restaurant at the Sheraton Carlsbad near Legoland showcases the local bounty on its menu of Mediterranean-influenced “new vineyard cuisine.” Find seafood, meats and hearth-baked pizzas on the dinner menu, more than 100 international bottles among the wine selection and Pacific Ocean views from the firepits on the palm-tree-shaded terrace. B, L, D (daily). 5480 Grand Pacific Drive, Carlsbad, 760.827.2500, twenty20grill.com Urban SolaceCL9006470 American. Enjoy new American comfort food in low-lit modern ambiance. The upscale comfort-food menu

is warm to the core with its cheese biscuits with orange honey butter, pan-roasted black mussels in smoked tomato butter, and sweet potato fries with Maytag blue cheese buttermilk dressing. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 3823 30th St., North Park, 619.295.6464, urbansolace.net VagabondCL0026981 Eclectic/Fusion. Inspired by the spirit of wanderlust, Vagabond serves up globetrotting flavors and décor.

The eclectic eatery is adored for its simple, delicious dishes and offbeat, welcoming surroundings. From achiote-braised boneless beef short ribs to Kung Pao calamari, the menu caters to the whims of world-traveled taste buds, as does the wine list. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 2310 30th St., South Park, 619.255.1035, vagabondkitchen.com

24 THE

downtown’s only

RESTAURANT THAT NEVER

SLEEPS PRE- & POSTTHEATRE DINING

VivaceCL0026982 Italian. The most opulent of the Aviara resort’s four restaurants, Vivace’s posh surroundings—fine crystal, velvet banquettes, soft lighting—may leave you starry-eyed, but the earthy food will bring you back to terra firma. Rustic woodfired fowl, grilled Kurobuta pork and seasonal vegetables share the menu with imaginative pastas and risottos. D (M-Sa). 7100 Four Seasons Point, Carlsbad, 760.448.1234, vivace-restaurant.com Zenbu SushiCL0026984 Japanese. The hippest sushi joint you’ll ever find in a strip mall, Zenbu’s contemporary rolls are made with seafood caught by the owner’s own fleet of fishing boats. Ask about the sushi bar’s off-the-menu creations. D (nightly). 7660 Fay Ave. #1, La Jolla, 858.454.4540 and 2003 San Elijo Ave, Cardiff, 760.633.2223, zenbusushi.com

For hundreds more dining listings, see where SAN DIEGO magazine OR WhereSD.COM

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Extraordinary Portions complete menu available at www.brians24.com

828 6th Ave • Gaslamp 619.702.8410

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special advertising section

CanDELaS ConTEMporary CuISInE

Candelas—which means “candles,” in Spanish—has become San Diego’s go-to spot for savoring the culinary flavors of Mexico City. In slang, this south-of-the-border style is known as “Chilango.” Translated, that means a menu focused on farm-fresh ingredients and innovative dishes that range from exquisite takes on sopas, ensaladas and pastas, to exceptionally seasoned seafood, poultry and meat entrées. The restaurant has earned a well-deserved reputation for romantic ambience—think flickering lights that cast sultry shadows, hip Euro tunes, four-star service and a wine list that would put anyone in the mood. With locations in the Gaslamp Quarter and Coronado, Candelas offers urban-chic or waterfront options. Either way, it’s sure to be a memorable experience. Gaslamp location: D (daily). Coronado location: Br (Sa-Su), L (M-F), D (daily).

416 Third ave., Gaslamp

619.702.4455 1201 First St., #115, Coronado

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MEnu HIGHLIGHTS Entradas callos Jean ceviche de atun estructura de aguacate calamares candelas alcachofa mestre Mexican platter aca las quesadillas sopes tacos de atun tacos yucatecos tacos de carnitas tacos de pato Huaraches de res ceviche Ensaladas, Sopas y Pastas ensalada de espinacas ensalada de palmitos ensalada colorada ensalada de berros ensalada veracruz endalada cuernavaca crema de cuatro quesos al chile pasilla crema de frijol a la cerveza crema fabiola Fideos estilo osa Fettucini Maya Pescados y Mariscos escamas del Mayab camarones cabo de puertas Manjar vallarta langosta Baeza camarones villa Hermosa la pesca lomo de Urtiaga Carnes y Aves Filete tlalpan placer poblano Filete las flores rib eye Bolivar pollo a la diabla Vegetariano torre de berengena el jardin

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DINE-F

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MenU HiGHLiGHTs Starters and Bar Menu Mache and sylvetta greens traditional Burgundy escargots artisanal charcuterie plate smoked scottish salmon Housemade wild mushroom petrossian caviar Yukon gold potato gnocchi Maine lobster bisque niçoise salad Maine Jonah crab salad Mussels marinière, white wine and onion tiger shrimp cocktail lamb slider, mint and garlic aioli paté grand-Mère Maryland crab cake with rémoulade Entrees lobster white corn and porcini aged sirloin steak and fries alaskan King salmon traditional coq au vin diver Maine scallops Fish du jour, citrus and tomato broth roasted duck leg confit lamb duo, rack and braised shoulder Berkshire pork duo tenderloin and belly veal tenderloin and eggplant napoleon Wild mushroom risotto Desserts cheese plate with walnut bread classic profiterole with chocolate sauce Meyer lemon tart with red berry coulis chocolate fondant with grand Marnier passion fruit cheesecake Warm apple crumble california strawberry soup

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ATTRACTIONS

UNDERWATER AT SEAWORLD

CANDID CAMERA When you've locked eyes with a panda or had an orangutan peer into your soul, it's hard not to get attached. From Safari Park to SeaWorld, San Diego's attractions pride themselves on getting guests up-close-and-personal, but what happens when you get home? Thanks to the wonders of technology, you can keep up to date with your newfound friends via webcam even after your trip has ended. It's easy to lose hours watching the adorable waddling of the residents of SeaWorld's Penguin Encounter from your desktop, or go underwater to spy on the park's star orca with ShamuCam. Birch Aquarium's KelpCam lets you marvel at the leopard sharks, eels, barracuda and other sea life swimming around its two-story, 70,000gallon tank, while the Zoo's oft-bookmarked PandaCam offers a window on the lives of the lovable Bai Yun and Gao Gao as they eat, sleep and play the day away.

BELMONT PARK1 Located right on Mission Beach, Belmont Park has everything a visitor could want from a summertime beach experience: bumper cars, air hockey, arcades, carousels, cotton candy and Tilt-A-Whirls. New and old live sideby-side in the historic 1925-built Giant Dipper (a classic wooden roller coaster), the new Octotron thrillride and the Wavehouse (complete with the Flowrider, a simulated wave ride for surfing and body-boarding).

3146 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.228.9283, belmontpark.com

★ HORNBLOWER CRUISES With a fleet of seven vessels capable of carrying from 50 to 1,000 people, Hornblower runs daily narrated tours of San Diego Bay that get you up close and personal with some 50 major landmarks, from the Star of India to Cabrillo National Monument. Also offered: whale watching, nightly romantic dinner cruises, a two-hour Sunday champagne brunch cruise, yacht charters, weddings and private events. 1066 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.686.8700, hornblower.com

BIRCH AQUARIUM AT SCRIPPS Educational and entertaining, the aquarium features an eye-popping assortment of Pacific marine life and lots of creative, hands-on exhibits highlighting the ongoing research and discoveries of the worldrenowned Scripps Institution of Oceanography. Kids will love it— “Hey, is that Nemo?!”—and grownups will leave feeling more informed about the planet’s vastest habitat: the ocean. Check the calendar for special events and activities for children and adults. 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.3474, aquarium.ucsd.edu

LEGOLAND CL0027051 Stemming from the popular building blocks made for children, Lego owns and operates five theme parks all over the world (including two in Germany).

Carlsbad is home to the only American park, featuring more than 50 rides along with model attractions (called Minilands) designed and constructed by master Lego builders using only Lego blocks. The Sea Life Aquarium is adjacent to the park and features educational and interactive entertainment, and a new water park includes a 45-foot water slide tower, a lazy river and more. 1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad, 760.918.5346, legoland.com

CABRILLO NATIONAL MONUMENTCL3 When Juan Rodriguez Cabrillo first gazed on San Diego Bay in 1542, he called the area “a very good enclosed port.” Later, Point Loma would be home to a historic lighthouse and Fort Rosecrans, a key cog in the coastal defense system. Now Cabrillo National Monument gives visitors the best views of downtown and sweeping ocean vistas. 1800 Cabrillo Memorial Drive, Point Loma, 619.557.5450, nps.gov/cabr

MISSION SAN DIEGO DE ALCALA Founded by Father Junípero Serra in 1769, Mission San Diego de Alcala has served as a historical monument and a working Catholic parish. The church was the first of California’s 21 missions. Pope Paul VI designated the mission a basilica in 1976. Tours covering the history and architecture of the mission are given by volunteer docents for a small donation on Saturdays at noon; the rest of the week, tours are self-guided. 10818 San

Diego Mission Road, Mission Valley, 619.281.8449, missionsandiego.com REUBEN H. FLEET SCIENCE CENTERCL0027081 This hands-on science center makes learning a blast. Discover more than 100 interactive exhibits, including the new Cellular Journey, which explores the impact of stem cells on medical research. At Kid City, scientists 5 and younger can climb into the driver’s seat of a model fire truck and play pretend in a mock grocery store checkout line. And the whole family can catch fascinating largeformat films and planetarium shows at the IMAX Dome Theater. 1875 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.1233, rhfleet.org SAN DIEGO BOTANIC GARDEN Back in 1957, Charles and Ruth Larabee donated their 30-acre private estate in Encinitas to the county. The San Diego Botanic Garden, now run by a nonprofit organization, immerses visitors in colorful flora and fauna in this urban oasis. Docent-led tours are offered Saturdays at 10:30 am.

230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas, 760.436.3036, sdbgarden.org SAN DIEGO CHARGERS CL0027091 After taking over the reins in 2007, coach Norv Turner has led the NFL’s Chargers to the playoffs multiple times, aided by star players including quarterback Philip Rivers and tight end Antonio Gates. Tailgating is a must before Chargers games—it’s a San Diego tradition. Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 877.242.7437, chargers.com SAN DIEGO PADRES CL002704 The National League’s San Diego Padres moved into their new down-

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town ballpark in 2004 and posted some nice numbers in the subsequent seasons, winning their division in 2006. These days the team that gave the world Hall of Famer Tony Gwynn (and whose roster now features Tony, Jr.) plays 81 games per year at Petco Park; the Friar mascot gets fans riled up, as do between-inning games and contests. Petco Park, 100 Park Blvd., downtown, 877.374.2784, padres.com ★ SAN DIEGO ZOO CL002705 As the old children’s rhyme goes: You belong in the zoo. And at the worldfamous San Diego Zoo, visitors will be in good company with more than 4,000 creatures from nearly every corner of the world. Animals, both well-known and unfamiliar, live in habitats rich with features and activities (the Elephant Odyssey, for example). The Zoo is a longtime leader in animal care and wildlife conservation, and it shows at this landmark San Diego attraction. 2920 Zoo Drive, Balboa Park, 619.231.1515, sandiegozoo.org ★ SAN DIEGO ZOO’S SAFARI PARKCL002706 The Serengeti is thousands of miles away, but the 1,800-acre Safari Park (formerly the Wild Animal Park) lets visitors experience a safari right here in San Diego. More than 375 species roam the extensive exhibits, which are designed to resemble natural habitats like savannas, forests and lakes. Guided and self-guided tours bring animal adventurers safely close to elephants, giraffes, gorillas, lions, antelopes, zebras, rhinos and more. 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, 619.231.1515, sdzsafaripark.org SEAWORLD CL00270 With San Diego’s connection to the Pacific Ocean, SeaWorld remains the signature theme park of America’s Finest City. From Dining With Shamu to Shipwreck Rapids, the park balances informative, fun

aquatic shows with thrilling coasters. Get wet on the splashy Journey to Atlantis, or explore polar life in Base Station Wild Arctic. The new Turtle Reef attraction offers an upclose look at some 60 threatened or endangered sea turtles. 500 Sea World Drive, Mission Bay, 800.257.4268, seaworld.com ★ SPANISH VILLAGE ART CENTER This artists’ haven includes 37 working studios and an outdoor patio area where visitors can watch resident artists create original works of art. With more than 200 artists represented, the center displays a large variety of paintings, glass, gourds, pottery, jewelry, sculpture, photography, fiber arts, enamel, woodwork and more. 1770 Village Place, Balboa Park, 619.233.9050, spanishvillageart.com USS MIDWAYCL900768 The world’s largest floating navalaviation museum, the USS Midway showcases more than two dozen restored airplanes on the flight deck, while interactive exhibits are featured inside. The Midway is the world’s longest-serving aircraft carrier, and many of the storytelling docents are veterans who served onboard the carrier during its 47-year history. 910 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.544.9600, midway.org WHALEY HOUSECL002709 Nestled in the historic Old Town neighborhood, the Whaley House provides a ghostly glimpse into San Diego’s early days. Built in 1857 on the site of early San Diego’s gallows, the museum swirls with reports of ghost sightings and hauntings, and is often considered one of the most haunted sites in the U.S. In fact, it’s been dubbed an authentic haunted house by the U.S. Department of Commerce. 2476 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.297.7511, whaleyhouse.org

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Golf La Costa Resort Measure your game against golfing’s elite at La Costa, the site of numerous PGA Tour events. Amid 400 acres in the coastal foothills of Carlsbad, La Costa features two 18-hole courses recently restored with a $20 million renovation unveiled in October 2011. The site also features a driving range, equipment rental, a prestigious Roger Fredericks Golf School and unique programs offered on-site by the U.S. Golf Fitness Association and the Chopra Center. 2100 Costa del Mar Road, Carlsbad, 800.854.5000, lacosta.com/golf h Maderas Golf Club CL9007962 This Johnny Miller- and Robert Muir Graves-designed course is set in secluded canyons and ravines 20 minutes northeast of downtown, complemented by oaks, sycamores, creeks, lakes, waterfalls and 40 acres of native wildflowers. This 18-hole course plays to 7,115 yards from the back tees, and with five sets of tees, it can be enjoyed by golfers of all skill levels. 17750 Old Coach Road, Poway, 858.451.8100, maderasgolf.com Park Hyatt AviaraCL900634 The only Arnold Palmer signature golf course in San Diego, Aviara winds through rolling valleys with ocean views. Named by Golf Digest and Golf magazines as one of the best resort courses in America, and by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the best in the world, the resort also welcomes non-guests to play. 7447 Batiquitos Drive, Carlsbad, 760.603.6900, parkaviara.hyatt.com/activities/golf Rancho Bernardo Inn & Country Club CL9006345 A Ted Robinson Sr.-designed championship layout with an amazing 18th hole, the course was enhanced some years ago by the design team of Schmidt & Curley. From the longest tees, the course plays 6,631 yards for a par of 72. Non-guests are welcome to tee off as well, but reservations must

be made a minimum of seven days in advance. 17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive, Rancho Bernardo, 858.675.8470, jcgolf.com/courses-rbi.php Torrey Pines Golf Course7 Home of the PGA Tour’s annual Farmers Insurance Open and the 2008 U.S. Open, this is one of the best-known courses in America. (Tiger Woods and local Phil Mickelson are among the greats who have played here.) The two courses have stunning ocean views from the bluffs above the Pacific, wide fairways and sloping greens. The seven and 12 holes on the South Course are two of the town’s toughest. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 800.985.4653, torreypinesgolfcourse.com

Museums

California Surf Museum CL0027041 Founded in 1986, the California Surf Museum documents not just the history of San Diego’s surf culture, but the whole state’s. The museum’s occasional exhibitions explore classic surf photography, the evolution of surfboard design and relics from the sport’s golden era. From highly specialized gear to music, art and clothing, the museum’s informative collection tells the story of a life lived according to the way the waves are breaking. In celebration of its 25th anniversary this year, the museum mounts an exhibition dedicated to surfing’s sister sport, skateboarding. 312 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.721.6876, surfmuseum.org Coronado Museum of History and ArtCL9006327 Housed in the historic Bank of Commerce building, the Coronado Museum of History and Art opened its doors in 2000 and has since displayed art and objects from the city of Coronado’s past. Featuring permanent galleries, traveling exhibitions and educational programs, the museum is dedicated to promoting understanding and appreciation of the city’s unique history. 1100 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.7242, coronadohistory.org

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Lux Art InstituteCL9006328 Challenging the traditional museum experience, Lux makes art more accessible by allowing viewers to “see art happen,” as the tagline says. The unique space lets visitors engage with artists-in-residence in a studio-like environment. 1550 S. El Camino Real, 760.436.6611, luxartinstitute.org Mingei International Museum CL9006329 Mingei—or art of the people—takes center stage at the Mingei International Museum, which showcases a rich collection of handmade folk art, craft and design from all eras and cultures of the world. The museum’s upcoming exhibitions include surveys of craftsmanship in post-war San Diego (part of the Getty’s Pacific Standard Time initiative) and African-American quiltmaking. 1439 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.0003, mingei.org Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego CL900630 With two locations—coastal and city—the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego keeps native and visiting culture-vultures satiated with lectures, film series and rotating exhibitions that have included marquee art-world names as well as notable upand-comers. MCASD La Jolla, perched above the dazzling Pacific, showcases the whimsical and charming outdoor Edwards Sculpture Garden, while the downtown galleries occupy the historic Santa Fe Depot and feature commissions from artists including Richard Serra, Jenny Holzer, Roman de Salvo and Richard Wright. 1100 Kettner Blvd., downtown and 700 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.3541, mcasd.org h Museum of Making MusicCL900631 In an effort to bring the story of American popular music to life, this museum showcases vintage musical instruments, interactive audio and visual exhibits, films, concerts and discussions that explore the history of music-making in the U.S. from the

1890s to the present day. This year’s exhibitions look at innovations in reed instruments and saxophones. 5790 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, 760.438.5996, museumofmakingmusic.org Museum of Photographic Arts CL900632 Since 1983, the Museum of Photographic Arts has brought the best of moving and still images to San Diego, ranging from pure art photography to pointed social commentary.

The permanent collection consists of more than 7,000 images, from the earliest daguerreotypes to modern photojournalism. MoPA also shows films in its state-of-the-art theater and has one of Balboa Park’s coolest gift shops. 1649 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.7559, mopa.org Oceanside Museum of Art Looking out, the Oceanside Museum of Art offers views of the Pacific Ocean and historic Oceanside Pier, YOU WON’T BELIEVE but it’s what’s on the inside—the various arts and crafts of regional and international artists—that warrants attention. Housed in side-by-WhereSDGuestbook_Zoo_AugJul2012.indd 1 side Irving Gill and Frederick Fisher buildings, the OMA features about a dozen exhibitions each year, ranging from landscape painting to studio furniture, neon sculpture, art quilts and architectural glass. Along with art, the museum also offers concerts, films, lectures and more. 704 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.435.3720, oma-online.org San Diego Hall of Champions Museum 20 Balboa Park’s Hall of Champions honors the athletes that loom large in the annals of San Diego sporting history. The museum’s collection covers high school, college and professional sports, and includes contributions from baseball legend Ted Williams and champion boxer Archie Moore. Baseball and football exhibits highlight Padres and Chargers achievements. San Diego’s active extreme-sports scene isn’t overlooked

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either—skateboarder Tony Hawk also gets some serious recognition.

2131 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.2544, sdhoc.com San Diego Maritime Museum San Diego’s Maritime Museum is world-famous for its beautifully preserved historic ships and collection of seafaring memorabilia. Take a tour of the magnificent Star of India, the world’s oldest active ship. Since her maiden voyage in 1863, she’s survived a mutiny, a collision and thousands of tourists. Now safely docked—except for a couple of exhibition sails each year—she’s a tall ship with plenty of tall tales just waiting to be imagined.

1492 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.234.9153, sdmaritime.com San Diego Museum of ArtCL900634 Opened in 1926 as the Fine Arts Gallery of San Diego, the museum’s diverse collection today includes Italian Renaissance and Spanish Baroque works, 19th and 20th century American and European paintings and sculpture and a vast Asian collection. New director Roxana Velásquez, formerly of Mexico City’s Museo del Palacio de Bellas Artes, has launched exhibitions featuring works from sought-after foreign collections. 1450 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.7931, sdmart.org San Diego Museum of ManCL002702 Located in the historic California Plaza at the center of Balboa Park, the Museum of Man is known as much for its architecture as its exhibitions—the museum’s California Tower is Balboa Park’s signature landmark. Past exW. T R O O N G O L F. CO M hibitionsW Whave spotlighted everything from ancient Egypt to medieval torture devices. 1350 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.2001, museumofman.org San Diego Natural History Museum CL002703 Housed in a building designed by San Diego architect William Templeton Johnson (who also designed the

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nearby Museum of Art), the Natural History Museum hosts permanent exhibitions such as Fossil Mysteries (prehistory of Southern California and Baja) as well as temporary ones, including All That Glitters, devoted to the science of gems and minerals, and an interactive exhibit about the North and South Poles. The museum also features an extensive film schedule at its 300-seat giant-screen 3D theater. 1788 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.3821, sdnhm.org Stuart Collection of Sculpture at UCSD CL900635 The Stuart Collection of Sculpture is a group of several site-specific artworks scattered across the expansive 1,200-acre campus at UCSD. The commissioned pieces come from cutting-edge artists including Barbara Kruger, William Wegman, Robert Irwin (a major figure in the Light & Space movement) and Niki de Saint Phalle, whose iconic Sun God sculpture is not to be missed. A map of all works can be downloaded from the collection’s website for self-guided tours. UCSD, Gilman and La Jolla Village drives, La Jolla, 858.534.2117, stuartcollection.ucsd.edu Timken Museum of ArtCL90063 Home to the Putnam Foundation Collection of European Old Masters, Russian Icons and American Art, the Timken features San Diego’s only permanent painting by Dutch artist Rembrandt Harmensz van Rijn. Occasional temporary exhibitions, such as the recent Robert Wilson: Video Portraits, are not to be missed. 1500 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.5548, timkenmuseum.org

Performing Arts Balboa TheatreCL9006325 The Balboa Theatre has enjoyed a long and colorful life since its construction in 1924. Originally a vaudeville and movie palace, it was transformed in 1934 into the Teatro Balboa, used by the Navy during

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WWII, served as single-occupancy housing after that and in 1959 was rescued from possible demolition by the Russo family. In 1986 the City purchased the theater and in 2002 decided to restore and renovate the historic building. In January 2008, after many years and $26 million, the Balboa Theatre finally reopened its doors as a local, national and international performance venue.

868 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter 619.570.1100, sandiegotheatres.org Cygnet TheatreCL9006849 Critics applaud the award-winning Cygnet Theatre, whose productions range from stage classics to world premieres, clever comedies to edgy brow-raisers. Shows take place at Cygnet’s intimate, 250-seat space in the heart of Old Town. Old Town Theatre, 4040 Twiggs St., Old Town 619.337.1525, cygnettheatre.com La Jolla PlayhouseCL900632 The Who’s Tommy. Thoroughly Modern Millie. Jersey Boys. All won a bevy of Tony Awards, and all premiered here, 3,000 miles off Broadway in La Jolla. This theater founded by Gregory Peck and others in 1947 has a storied history, and continues to draw top-flight original musical and theatrical productions.

2910 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla 858.550.1010, lajollaplayhouse.org Lamb’s Players TheatreCL900637 This ensemble theater company presents a year-round schedule of productions in two different venues—its resident stage, a beautiful 350-seat space in Coronado’s historic Spreckels Building, and the newly refurbished Horton Grand Theatre, an intimate 250-seat space in downtown San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter. This energetic company serves up an engaging range of comedies, musicals, classics, dramas and new work. 1142 Orange Ave., Coronado and Horton Grand Theatre, 444 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.437.0600, lambsplayers.org

The Old Globe TheatreCL900638 Mixing traditional Tudor architecture and Shakespearean staging with contemporary plays, the Old Globe, founded in 1935, brings high-quality theater to the heart of Balboa Park.

The complex actually holds three stages: the main Old Globe Theatre (capacity: 580), the more intimate White Theater arena stage and the outdoor Lowell Davies Festival Theatre, with 615 seats. In addition to its annual summer Shakespeare festival and popular holiday offering, Dr. Seuss’ How the Grinch Stole Christmas!, the Globe this year features the West Coast premiere of Kander and Ebb’s The Scottsboro Boys (April/May 2012). 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park 619.234.5623, theoldglobe.org San Diego OperaCL900639 Opera isn’t just Vikings in helmets and rotund ladies in braids anymore. With an interactive website and informative podcasts, San Diego Opera continues to make strides to bring its beautiful music and theater to new audiences.

Ranked by Opera America as one of the top 10 opera companies in the U.S., the company produces four operas a year in the historic San Diego Civic Theatre. The 2012 season, which runs from January through April 2012, includes Salome, the West Coast premiere of Jake Heggie’s Moby-Dick, Donizetti’s Don Pasquale and a Rene Magritteinspired production of The Barber of Seville. 1100 Third Ave., downtown 619.533.7000, sdopera.com San Diego Repertory Theatre Small but prestigious, The Rep stages five to seven plays annually at the downtown Lyceum Theatre space, including a few—such as It Ain’t Nothin’ But the Blues—that have moved on to Broadway. With an emphasis on multicultural programming, The Rep also produces Kuumba Fest, a celebration of AfricanAmerican culture, and the Lipinsky Family Jewish Arts Festival. Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, Gaslamp Quarter 619.544.1000, sdrep.org

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San Diego Symphony San Diego Symphony has been enriching local culture for a century now. Under the leadership of Music Director Jahja Ling, the orchestra performs both classical and symphonic pops concerts throughout the year. Its winter home is downtown’s beautifully restored Copley Symphony Hall. For the Summer Pops series, the orchestra moves outdoors to the waterfront Embarcadero Marina Park South. 1245 Seventh Ave., downtown 619.235.0804, sandiegosymphony.com

Nightlife

in Balboa Park Over 200 San Diego County artists in 37 working studios located in beautiful Balboa Park.

Open 11am - 4pm daily

Spanish Village Art Center 1770 Village Place San Diego, CA 92101 619-233-9050

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207/FloatCL9006348 In typical fashion, the Hard Rock Hotel brings rock ’n’ roll glamour to its two nightspots: the street-level 207 lounge and the rooftop Float, which features bottle service in poolside cabanas. Celebrity guest DJs are a common sighting at this hoppin’ downtown hotspot. 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.3000, hardrockhotelsd.com h Altitude Sky LoungeCL9006350 San Diego looks good from 22 stories up. The highest open-air rooftop bar in Southern California, Altitude Sky Lounge at the Marriott Gaslamp offers two full-service bars and a design that caters to comfort and style. Spectacular views of the harbor, downtown skyline and an inside peek into Petco Park can be enjoyed with VIP service. With plenty of ledge seating and a swank fire pit, Altitude Sky Lounge allows guests to sit atop the world in style. 660 K St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.758.3507, altitudesandiego.com Anthology LoungeCL9006351 This Little Italy nightspot is a serious boon for dedicated jazz cats and foodies alike. With state-of-theart sound equipment and soughtafter talent both onstage and in the kitchen, this supper club is a feast for all senses. The farm-fresh AmericanMediterranean cuisine comes courtesy of Chef Todd Allison; the musi-

cians come from all over the world, sending strains of Latin jazz, swing and big-band wafting through the tri-level club. 1337 India St., Little Italy, 619.595.0300, anthologysd.com Belly Up Tavern CL900635 Built in a converted Quonset hut, this intimate club has offered some of the best live music in the county since 1974. The lineup runs the gamut from local and indie bands to well-known names in folk, world, rock, country and so on. It’s a short haul from downtown San Diego, and well worth it. Be sure to check out rock poster art

by Scrojo, the Belly Up’s resident artist. 143 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.481.8140, bellyup.com The Casbah CL900684 This small but legendary rock club has hosted superstars like Nirvana and Smashing Pumpkins way before they became household names.

You’ll know you’re at the right place by the metallic flames licking the building’s exterior blood-red walls. 2501 Kettner Blvd., Little Italy, 619.232.4355, thecasbah.com The Field CL900632 The award-winning Field is arguably San Diego’s best (and most authentic) Irish pub. The first to set the trend, the Field was meticulously constructed from pieces shipped over from Ireland. Rich wooden framing houses a range of appointments and bric-a-brac straight from the Isle of Eire. Even the staff members take orders in their native Gaelic dialect.

The warm, friendly atmosphere encourages a wide range of patrons to lift their pints to the sounds of live Irish music. 544 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.232.9840, thefield.com FluxxCL90063 This theatrical nightspot gets its name from the continually changing atmosphere. But it’s not only the chameleonlike décor that attracts S.D.’s trendiest clubgoers to the 11,000-square-foot nighclub’s central sunken dance floor:

Fluxx’s sophisticated lighting and sound systems along with their barely clad bartenders make for unforgettable nights. (F-Sa only; select Th).

500 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.232.8100, fluxxsd.com Henry’s Pub CL900634 Likely the only bar in San Diego with Finnish heritage, Henry’s was born from the long-standing tradition of a Finnish family of pub-owners. Ironically, however, the place feels more familiar than some homegrown bars. Situated along the Gaslamp’s famed Fifth Avenue, the bar and restaurant is a casual alternative to the sleek, costly mega-clubs nearby.

Young Gaslamp regulars come for live music, DJs, karaoke and some 50 imported and domestic beers.

618 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.238.2389, henryspub.com House of Blues CL900635 The well-established national juggernaut of music and Southern cuisine planted its flag in San Diego in 2005 and has since asserted itself as local monarch of live music and promotion. The walls of the multilevel venue are bedecked with vibrant folk art. Clientele at HOB largely depends on the type of band onstage, but music lovers across the spectrum relish its paramount sound-andstage technology. 1055 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.299.2583, hob.com/sandiego The IvyCL900631 This Gaslamp mega-club inside the Andaz Hotel is all about seeing and being seen. Or more precisely, being watched. The multi-level club boasts an unabashedly voyeuristic atmosphere, with mirrored surfaces, a scantily clad service staff and sumptuously textured décor. There’s a dance club in the basement, a streetlevel wine bar and a rooftop poolside lounge complete with intimate cabanas. Andaz Hotel, 600 F St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.814.1000, ivyentertainmentsandiego.com

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The Lincoln Room CL9006357 S.D.’s nightlife scene is currently defined by its apparent love of all things 19th century, and the Lincoln Room— named after the Great Emancipator—is no exception. The log cabin décor sets the backdrop for Chef Chris Walsh’s American tapas, while a late-20s/early30s crowd sips on frontier-inspired cocktails like the Peach Smash, with bourbon and mint, and the Mary Todd Martini with pear purée. 901 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.696.8888, thelincolnroomsd.com LoungeSixCL90063 A choice mix-and-mingle spot among local trendsetters, LoungeSix is the rooftop pool bar atop the Hotel Solamar. With views into neighboring Petco Park, the fourth-floor terrace is an ideal happy-hour hangout, offering fresh and innovative cocktails and six private poolside cabanas. You can also get cozy around three fire pits or bathe in the purple light of the elevated Moon Deck. 616 J St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.531.8744, jsixrestaurant.com Noble Experiment Behind the wall of kegs in Neighborhood lies an exclusive speakeasy-style lounge with golden skulls, glittering chandeliers and knowledgeable bartenders ready to satisfy your every classic cocktail whim, with a twist. Be sure to request the “Dealer’s Choice,” when these mixology magicians whip up the perfect concoction based on your preferences and serve it over an iceberg-size ice cube. Reservations are arranged via text message, so ask a Neighborhood staffer for the secret number and get your request in early—the bar fills up fast. 777 G St., downtown, 619.888.4713, nobleexperimentsd.com On Broadway368 Housed in a former bank building, On Broadway was among the first mega-clubs in downtown. In this case, “mega” is no hyperbole. On Broadway’s velvet rope entry gives way to vibrant décor, dynamic lighting and

space for days, where a young, styleconscious clientele relishes worldclass DJ talent, a sushi bar and an exclusive lounge located behind a massive bank vault door. (Th-Sa).

615 Broadway, Gaslamp Quarter, 619.231.0011, obec.tv SidebarCL9006371 One of the first lounges to bring big-city sophistication to the Gaslamp, Sidebar comes complete with intimate dark corners for canoodling and a décor that features oversized bird cages and TVs playing custom-made erotica. Guests can revel in their flights of fancy with music provided by local DJs and late-night snacks provided by nearby Ciro’s Pizza. 536 Market St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.696.0946, sidebarsd.com StingareeCL900637 Ironically named for San Diego’s seedy red-light district of the 19th century, Stingaree today is the pinnacle of posh. No fewer than 22,000 square feet define the parameters of this ultrachic mega-club steps from Petco Park. A well-groomed urban demographic flush with disposable income populates the three-level space, sipping cocktails at street-level, dancing on the VIP mezzanine or mingling in the starlit rooftop lounge. (F-Sa). 454 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter 619.544.9500, stingsandiego.com Vin de Syrah CL900637 For a drink with a bit of whimsy, go down the rabbit hole at this Alice in Wonderland-themed underground wine and spirit lounge, whose imaginative décor includes grass growing up the walls, oversized wingback chairs and upside-down umbrellas suspended from the ceiling. 901 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.234.4166, syrahwineparlor.com

For more NIGHTLIFE & ATTRACTIONS listings, see where SAN DIEGO magazine OR WherESD.COM

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“…one of the newest, hottest , sexiest nightclubs in the world…” - Conde Nast Traveler

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