Where Los Angeles, January 2016

january 2016 whereLa.com

Los Angeles

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Celebrating 80 Years of travel

ART FORM

4 art shows fill the city with photos and paintings

ASIAN FLAVORS

New Thai and Korean BBQ spots to try

GET MOVING Chic and cozy athleisure from L.A. boutiques

Let’s Eat!

the top places to dine in l.a., from vegan bistros to meat eaters’ meccas

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“One of LA’s best kept secrets...”

2016 SHOW SCHEDULE JANUARY Rembrandt: Window into the 17th Century MARCH Spring Auction APRIL Modern Masters in Color Our unique partnership with clients offers full education on the acquisition and collection of major museum quality works by the finest artists in the world.

Our business philosophy and approach focuses on education, market awareness, price validation and includes access to the highest caliber work.

Galerie Michael is a fine art gallery in the heart of Beverly Hills and has been on Rodeo Drive for over 35 years. Visit us for the best in 19th Century to modern impressionist work. Our doors are open 7 days a week.

224 North Rodeo Drive | Beverly Hills, CA 90210 | 310.273.3377 | art@galeriemichael.com | galeriemichael.com Monday to Saturday 10am - 6pm | Sunday 11am - 5pm

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*Free 2hr valet parking at the 2 Rodeo entrance on Dayton Way

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where los angeles

1.16

COntents

The Dining issue

departments

the guide

6 Editor’s Note

60 Dining Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

Animal, vegetable.

8 Hot Dates Dine L.A. Restaurant Week offers delights for budget-savvy foodies, while the Rose Parade, comedy festival Riot L.A. and Cirque du Soleil’s Kurios fill in a fun January calendar.

74 Entertainment Special events, performing arts and sports 76 Attractions + museums Theme parks, activities, studio tapings, exhibitions and more

88 30 Things We Love Chic fashions, good eats and luxurious beauty treatments provide the perfect start to the new year.

78 shopping The county’s major retail destinations

where now

81 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around and getting to know Los Angeles

10 Shopping Stick to your New Year’s fitness resolutions, thanks to athleisure styles from new L.A. boutiques.

City Tours

12 Dining Chef Andy Ricker expands his Thai empire with Pok Pok LA in Chinatown. In downtown Culver City, Hanjip elevates Korean barbecue.

16

A spread at Plant Food + Wine in Venice

14 Arts + Culture

ON THE COVER Charcoal’s broccolini with smoked fingerling potatoes, and grilled endive with woodroasted beets. See p. 23.

Photo by Dylan + Jeni

features

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20 Meat Done Well At the other end of the spectrum, meat—whether barbecued, cured, smoked, grilled or prepared raw—is having its moment at top L.A. dining destinations. By Roger grody

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Get the up-to-the-minute buzz from our Southern California Where editors online and on your smartphone.

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where Los Angeles

Anna schwaber

From Photo L.A. to the L.A. Art Show to Art Los Angeles Contemporary, there are plenty of opportunities for art lovers to get their fix this month.

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GI Jenn

“Inspiration is everywhere. I mix it with my essence to create something unique to me.”

Text and design ©2015 J. Paul Getty Trust

@jennydoh

Browse the gallery and share your creativity

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where M AG A Z INE

PUBLISHER EDITOR

Jeff Levy

Suzanne Ennis

ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Benjamin Epstein

PRODUCTION ARTIST Diana Gonzalez CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Heidi Schwindt

CLASSICAL MUSIC @ THE WALLIS

DAVID FINCKEL & WU HAN Jan 8, 2016

MEDIA SPONSOR

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Gillian Glover CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Marina Chetner,

Roger Grody, Joshua Lurie, Constance Sommer, Barbara Thornburg

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Dale Berman, Angela DeCenzo, Daniel Ennis, Matt Hartman, Dave Lauridsen, Lisa Romerein, Edwin Santiago

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Effortless, defined by this place where dreams come true and trends are born.

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CitadelOutlets.com I-5 at Atlantic Blvd. exit.

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Welcome

A note from the editor

Animal, vegetable This is our annual dining issue, and I hope you’re hungry, because it’s 8315 WEST 3RD. STREET (323)424.4807 WWW.PYRRHA.COM

overflowing with recommendations.

The question is, what are you craving?

I’ve noticed a trend of new restaurants falling into one of two camps: unabashedly carnivorous or unwaveringly plant-based. Obviously, the cuisines are polar opposites in a fundamental way, but what’s identical is the chefs’ commitment to elevating their respective ingredients to their fullest potential. The meat-focused chefs source sustainably raised animals, butcher and smoke them on-site, grill them over open fires and serve them in huge slabs or Flintstones-style on the bone. The plant-focused chefs source locally and seasonally grown produce, prepare it with refined techniques and serve it with biodynamic, vegan wine (did you even know that there was such a thing as nonvegan wine?). So, to give each camp its due, we offer back-to-back stories— Planted on p. 16 and Meat Done Well on p. 20—highlighting the best of the season’s crop. (Vegetarians, never fear—even the barbecue spots generally have veggie options on the menu. This is L.A., after all.) Additionally,

Clothes Heaven

111 E. Union St. 626.440.0929 clothesheaven.com

we have hot Thai and Korean restaurants for you to check out on p. 12 (expect long lines); on p. 8, find news about Restaurant Week and a cocktail conference, along with non-foodie-related, don’t-miss events this month. Speaking of which, big art shows are back in town; find out what to see and where on p. 14. And on p. 10, we cover another trend, this time on the fashion front: athleisure. Shops are opening almost daily to meet the demand for yoga pants. I will be sure to wear a pair with four-way stretch while I eat my way through January. —Suzanne Ennis

daniel ennis

Shopping is fun at this high-end designer resale store, offering the best of recent and vintage Chanel, Vuitton, Prada and more!

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DANIEL ENNIS

OYSTER PERPETUAL MILGAUSS

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Where calendar January 2016 Search the full calendar at wherela.com

Top Stops

Opening Jan. 8 DYSTOPIAN DILEMMA Look out for Big Brother at this reimagining of Orwell’s 1984 at the Broad Stage. p. 74 opening Jan. 8 COMMON SENSE The Office’s Rainn Wilson contemplates life in the poignantly funny Thom Pain (based on nothing) at the Geffen. p. 74

Hot dates

Jan. 14-17 CUE THE VIOLIN Violin virtuoso Itzhak Perlman plays with the L.A. Phil at Walt Disney Concert Hall. p. 76

Jan. 18-31 fine dine on a dime Attention, budget-conscious food lovers: The biannual Dine L.A. Restaurant Week is a perfect opportunity to try some of the city’s top foodie destinations without breaking the bank.

Hundreds of fine restaurants across the county, including Herringbone Santa Monica, Craft, Fig & Olive, Night + Market and Artisan House (whose falafel macarons are pictured here), offer specially priced prix-fixe menus for lunch and dinner. New for this edition is an Exclusive Series, which features a tier of experiential menus from the city’s top chefs. p. 74

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FAIRS, FESTS AND MORE FUN EVENTS

1 TOURNAMENT OF ROSES > THROUGH JAN. 3 Jubilant throngs pack Pasadena to attend the world-famous Rose Parade and football game at Rose Bowl Stadium on New Year’s Day. View the floats up close after the parade. p. 74

Here for the weekend? Go to WhereLA.com for the Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performingarts events, dining promotions and more.

2 Patti Smith and her band perform ‘Horses’ > Jan. 8-9 The punk poet laureate and singer/songwriter takes the stage at the Wiltern to play her acclaimed 1975 debut studio album in full. p. 76

Ice RINKS > THrough Jan. 18 Don’t miss the chance to enjoy a simulated snowy winter and ice skate outdoors in Santa Monica or at Pershing Square, downtown. p. 74 3

4 GOLDEN STATE OF COCKTAILS > Jan. 24-26 Head downtown and raise a glass to the return of this conference and festival celebrating California’s diverse cocktail culture. p. 74 5 CLippers vs. lakers > Jan. 29 Los Angeles’ two basketball teams go head to head at this showdown at Staples Center­­, both teams’ home court. p. 76 6 RIOT L.A. > Jan. 29-31 KCRW’s alternativecomedy festival finds top-notch comics like Patton Oswalt and T.J. Miller headlining venues downtown. p. 74 7 KURIOS: CABINET OF CURIOSITIES > ALL MONTH Cirque du Soleil’s surreal new acrobatic show (see photo at left), which follows a 19th-century inventor and his creations, mesmerizes audiences at Dodger Stadium. p. 74

ThROUGH JAN. 24 GOING, GOING, GONE Catch the Hammer’s exhibits about artists Frances Stark and Lawren Harris (curated

by Steve Martin; see Isolation Peak, Rocky Mountains, 1930, below) before they disappear. p. 78 Jan. 29 CYBER ROMANCE DJ Kid Koala’s graphic novel Nufonia Must Fall—a robot’s love story—comes to life at UCLA’s Royce Hall. p. 76 Jan. 29-30 LET’S DANCE Benjamin Millepied’s L.A. Dance Project takes the stage with an exciting program at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts. p. 76

clockwise from top: courtesy artisan house; Lawren Harris, Hart House Permanent Collection, University of Toronto, © Family of Lawren S. Harris; Martin Girard/shootstudio.ca Costumes: Philippe Guillotel, © 2014 Cirque du Soleil

what’s happening in arts and culture

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NOW OPEN! November 1, 2015 — January 18, 2016 Corner of 5th Street and Arizona Avenue

Everyone’s ICE skating in Downtown Santa Monica this holiday season!

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ICE SkatE ClaSSES November 7—January 17

SaturdayS: Private Lessons

20-min. lessons with a private instructor 8AM—9:45AM | 1 Skater: $45, 2 Skaters: $60

SundayS: Beginner Basics & Intermediate 30-min. lessons, maximum of 15 students 8AM—9:45AM | $30 per class

EvENt CabaNaS

Skaters of all ages can celebrate their birthday, throw a corporate bash or special event at ICE at Santa Monica! Host your party in one of our private event cabanas. $300 per 2-hour time block. Add a party package for $150 and let ICE at Santa Monica staff handle the food and drinks.

For more information on ice skating lessons or to rent an event cabana, visit or call:

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where now

los angeles

THE BEST IN SHOPPING, DINING AND ARTS + CULTURE

SHOPPING

Athleisure Time You don’t need to read the industry rags to see that “athleisure,” or athletic wear worn outside the gym, is overtaking denim in popularity.

Yoga pants are everywhere, especially now that everyone’s trying to make good on those New Year’s resolutions to exercise more (or is it that we need the stretchy waistbands after all of that holiday feasting?). The good news is, you needn’t sacrifice style for comfort or performance—fashion brands are getting into the game, and athletic brands are stepping up theirs.

Whether you’re headed to the studio or Starbucks, strike a pose in sweet styles from new local retailers.

—Suzanne Ennis

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yogasmoga Made in the U.S. (and dyed in L.A. County), Yogasmoga’s eco-friendly styles for men and women look clean and simple, but they boast high-tech, proprietary fabrics.

The catchy name means “yoga and everything related to it,” so you’ll find performance wear (like the Reyes Tee below) next to post-workout cashmere-blend cardis.

9458 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.273.9642; 11911 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.471.9642; 3900 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 888.990.9642, yogasmoga.com

prana This popular Carlsbad-based brand’s first L.A. retail store just opened at the fitness-full Point in El Segundo (which also has a new SoulCycle, Athleta and Six:02 by Foot Locker). At Prana, you’ll find men’s and women’s clothes and accessories for just about every active pursuit, all sustainably made and loaded with outdoorsy SoCal style. Case in point: the men’s climbing-, yoga- and travel-friendly Sutra pants at left, made from hemp, Lycra and recycled materials.

830 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.469.7765, prana.com

Opposite: kate hudson in fabletics, courtesy fabletics

rebecca minkoff When designer Rebecca Minkoff noticed the women in her office wearing athletic wear with increasing frequency, a lightbulb went off: Those functional clothes needed an injection of her chic style. The result is a new athleisure line launched at her tech-savvy Melrose Avenue flagship, which opened last August. There, you’ll find edgy/sporty styles, like the Attie sweatshirt, pictured right, that look as good on the clock as they do in the gym.

8335 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.451.7414, rebeccaminkoff.com

sweaty betty

FABLETICS We can’t get you Kate Hudson’s abs, but we can help you get into Fabletics, the men’s and women’s activewear brand co-founded by the actress. At its new shop at the Village at Westfield Topanga, find fashions similar to the bra above and Kate’s outfit on the facing page. 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 747.900.2800, fabletics.com

This London import, which just opened its first California shop in Venice, calls itself a “multi-channel fitness fashion brand.” You’ll call it your go-to for everything from butt-sculpting workout pants to the Luxe gym bag at left, which doubles as a chic carry-on.

1112 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.3675; 1308 Montana Ave., Santa Monica (due to open midJanuary), sweatybetty.com

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dining

Andy Ricker, a dedicated student of Thai cuisine, has been thrilling Portland for a decade. The James Beard Foundation’s 2011 Best Chef: Northwest also found fans in New York City and opened a tiny noodle shop, Pok Pok Phat Thai, in L.A.’s Chinatown on the eve of 2015. Now, there’s another Pok Pok just up the street: Pok Pok LA, a full-scale restaurant in Mandarin Plaza featuring geometric steel arches, floral tabletops and an umbrella-shaded patio. The menu’s five categories include drinking food, grilled things and sweet things. Standout items include Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings, sticky with umami.

Khao soi is a northern Thai noodle soup with mild curry and pungent garnishes like pickled mustard greens and chili paste. Ricker also works wonders with duck, ribs and vegetables. Extinguish flames with Thai-accented cocktails or “noproof drinks” crafted with signature Som drinking vinegars. 978 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.613.1831, pokpokla.com

The famous Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings at Pok Pok LA

from top: joshUA lurie; rick Poon

Thai One On

all fired up If you’re looking for an elevated version of your favorite old-school Korean barbecue spot, make a date at Hanjip in downtown Culver City. Seoul Sausage Co.’s Chris Oh and restaurateur Stephane Bombet (Terrine, Faith & Flower, Viviane) are behind the stylish and super-hot new res-

taurant, where Oh’s take on Korean fare incorporates timehonored flavors and top-quality meat and seafood but doesn’t feel hemmed in by tradition. For lunch, try one of several soups, a poke bowl or the bibimbap. For dinner, order items like the marinated pork belly, the gigantic prawns

or the decadent tomahawk steak with foie-gras butter, then watch your server grill them to perfection at the banchan-laden table as you sip rice wine, Korean beer or soju. You’re in for an experience, not just a delicious meal.

3829 Main St., Culver City, 323.720.8804, hanjip.com

Hanjip’s modern interior

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Alfie Fernandes, Cool Down (2015), mixed media on canvas

arts+culture

January has been dubbed Arts Month in L.A., and, fittingly, the city is a canvas for multiple art fairs this month.

First up, Photo L.A.—which is celebrating its 25th anniversary—points a lens at innovative photographic art at the Reef, downtown, from Jan. 21-24. And after 20 years, L.A.’s quintessential art showcase, the L.A. Art Show, has narrowed its focus and will exhibit only modern and contemporary art (such as this work by Alfie Fernandes) at the Los Angeles Convention Center from Jan. 27-31. Meanwhile, at the concurrent Los Angeles Fine Art Show next door in West Hall B, find works of historic and traditional contemporary art. And over in Santa Monica, Art Los Angeles Contemporary offers Westsiders their own chance to see works from blue-chip and emerging galleries, both local and international, at the Barker Hangar from Jan. 28-31. p. 74

courtesy Walter Wickiser Gallery

State of Art

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planted

L.A. may currently be obsessed with meat, but plant-based cuisine is beginning to give steakhouses a run for their money. By roger grody

Y

Yes, carnivores seem to have hijacked the local dining scene with $150 slices of Japanese wagyu beef, massive slabs of bistecca fiorentina and Brazilian churrascarias that celebrate well-marbled gluttony.

But "plant-based" cuisine is experiencing its own renaissance as stereotypes—struggling poets consuming tasteless sprouts at worn Formica-clad cafés—are being shattered by sophisticated chefs and designers.

Plant-based cuisine, generally a more sophisticated way of saying “vegan,” has long been dismissed by traditionalists who believe that vegan chefs can’t possibly take their culinary craft seriously. But in contemporary L.A., plant-based kitchens are attracting outstanding talent, resulting in mainstream recognition and commercial success. Their guests are not exclusively herbivores but include meat eaters looking for a change of pace, just as they might approach a Thai or Peruvian meal.

No restaurant in L.A. provides a better example of a classically trained chef turning out sophisticated and innovative vegan dishes than Crossroads. There, chef Tal Ronnen elevates plant-based cuisine, turning out nuanced, aesthetically plated dishes with superb ingredients. Author of cookbooks The Conscious Cook and new Crossroads, Ronnen has been a gourmet vegan caterer with a celebrity clientele and consults with top hotels in Las Vegas, where demand for vegan meals is greater than one might imagine. And with white-linenclad tables, trendy chandeliers and high-end finishes, Crossroads is no Hollywood Boulevard sprouts joint.

Ronnen creates a roasted-beet salad with candied walnuts, Kite Hill artisanal almond cheese, Granny Smith apples and a balsamic gastrique, and uses hearts of palm as a substitute for fried calamari, serving them with cocktail and tartar sauces. Recently, an inspired seasonal “seafood” tower featured carrot “lox” standing in for smoked salmon with kelp caviar and almond milk “crème fraîche,” as well as tempura-battered lobster

mushrooms that were transformed into something more indulgent. A wood-fired Bolognese lasagna approximates the real deal, and a New York cheesecake prepared with sweet almond ricotta is plated with a caramel-pecan praline.

Chef Phillip Frankland Lee, a frequent contestant in cable-TV culinary competitions, is emerging as one of L.A.’s most creative chefs, whether he’s working with red meat or red rice. He recently relocated his Beverly Hills restaurant, Scratch Bar, to Encino, where Scratch Bar & Kitchen offers seven- to 25-course tasting menus and made-from-scratch charcuterie, cheese and olive oil. At The Gadarene Swine, seven- to 12-course vegan tasting menus showcase Lee’s equal guile with plantbased cuisine.

The young chef might send out lemon-pistachio kale chips, fried olive-stuffed olives, a play on peanut butter and jelly using sourdough and port-poached figs, or cayenne-scented maitake and shimeji mushrooms in portobello puree. Silky sauces and ethereal foams remind diners they aren’t sacrificing technique simply because no traditional proteins are in sight. What makes the Swine so fascinating—and serves as evidence of veganism’s newfound acceptance—is that Lee himself, long an unapologetic carnivore, is driven not by orthodoxy but flavor.

Musician Richard Melville Hall—better known as Moby—grew up on suburban fast food but is now a slow-food vegan. Combining his passions for organic food, veganism, community, architecture and design, the Grammy-nominated recording artist and producer recently opened Little Pine in Silver Lake, where he and chef Kristyne Starling created all-organic menus with frequent Mediterranean themes. The intent is to serve food that appeals to everybody, whether lifelong vegan or carnivore.

Dinner at Little Pine might begin with a panzanella salad with market vegetables and avocado, or a

Plant Food + Wine’s cider-braised Tokyo turnips

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previous spread: anna schwaber. opposite, clockwise from top left: courtesy little pine; anna schwaber; courtesy elovate; lisa romerein

farro-walnut salad with butternut squash, scallions and pomegranate. Entrées include a trio of stuffed shells (olive and pesto, artichoke and lemon, and spinach and ricotta), as well as “meatballs” with polenta in marinara sauce or a vegan cassoulet. Look for a vegan grilled cheese sandwich with tomato soup at lunch. Organic wines and premium teas are also offered in an attractive lodge-inspired dining room whose wallpaper features a forest scene photographed by Moby.

In Venice, where trends quickly come and go, plantbased cuisine is elevated to fine-dining standards in the hands of Matthew Kenney, a James Beard Award nominee so prominent in the plant-based food movement that he even markets his own cuisine. Busy “crafting the future of food,” Kenney is in demand as a private chef, keynote speaker and consultant, all the while operating restaurants scattered from the chef’s native Maine to Miami to Mérida, Mexico (locally, he also has a fastcasual option, Make Out, in Culver City). At Venice’s Plant Food + Wine, French oak floors and white-marble tables inhabit a modern space warmed by a fireplace, while a gorgeous olive-tree-shaded courtyard brings guests even closer to the origins of Kenney’s refined, artfully presented cuisine.

Meat may be off limits at Plant Food + Wine, but a mushroom pâté provides the illusion of something far more decadent, while a fingerling-potato poutine features smoked almond cheese, mustard greens and mushroom gravy. A selection of house-made nut cheeses is served with pickles and fennel crackers, and seasonal entrées might include spaghetti squash with tomatoes and fennel, dusted with sunflower Parmesan and topped with “meatballs” crafted from farro. What doesn’t grow in the restaurant’s on-site garden, Kenney and chef Scott Winegard find at the Santa Monica Farmers Market, just like Mélisse’s Josiah Citrin and Maude’s Curtis Stone. A five-course tasting menu with optional wine pairings is offered, and desserts include olive-oil cake with balsamic gelato and pumpkin pie with a pecan-oat crust.

The historic Grand Central Market has undergone a rather remarkable upgrade to coincide with downtown L.A.’s overall renaissance. An expansive, eclectic repertoire of innovative quick-service eateries now includes Eggslut, Wexler’s Deli, Belcampo Meat Co., the Oyster Gourmet and Berlin Currywurst. One of the latest to occupy a coveted stall at the market is Ramen Hood, where Top Chef champion Ilan Hall is creating vegan ramen-noodle bowls and quirky snacks. Hall—the chef was a downtown pioneer with the Gorbals, which recently shuttered a couple blocks away—is able to infuse his dashi with rich flavors not from meats but from ingredients such as sunflower seeds. He then loads the broth with noodles, mushrooms, nori, bean sprouts and vegan “eggs.”

Where Plants Rule Crossroads 8284 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.782.9245 eLOVate 1705 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 424.272.8700 The Gadarene Swine 11266 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.508.5500 Gracias Madre 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 Little Pine 2870 Rowena Ave., Silver Lake, 323.741.8148 Plant Food + Wine 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 Ramen Hood Grand Central Market, 317 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.265.7331 Satdha Plant-Based Thai Kitchen 2218 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.450.6999

a Opposite, clockwise from top left: The sign for Moby's Little Pine; farro balls with spaghetti squash at Plant Food + Wine; the dining room at eLOVate; wood-fired meaty lasagna at Crossroads

Appetizers at the Hood include broccoli with soy-chili glaze, all-vegetable bánh mì poutine and tofu al pastor.

Busy with a new Brooklyn branch of the Gorbals, Hall has assigned Rahul Khopkar to run the Grand Central Market kitchen. The two chefs insist that this is not a restaurant designed for vegans, but instead that Ramen Hood’s celebration of fruits and vegetables in both traditional and nontraditional ways appeals to diners of all stripes—even those who usually gravitate toward the pastrami at Wexler’s Deli.

Chef Roberto Martin has introduced an inviting juice bar and café called eLOVate to Santa Monica, offering a 100 percent organic, vegan menu. The Culinary Institute of America alum perfected his vegan cooking skills while serving as a private chef for Ellen DeGeneres, and those recipes were published in his first book, Vegan Cooking for Carnivores. Martin is now presenting his craveable vegan cuisine to the public.

Unlike in earlier eras—when chefs of Martin’s caliber were too busy braising meats in French kitchens to open vegan cafés—the food at eLOVate is so attractively plated that it catches even the eye of carnivores. With its long, wood-topped bar, glimmering subway tiles and relaxing patio, eLOVate is an inviting space where an eclectic crowd samples burgers crafted from black beans, farro and shiitake mushrooms, or Thai-inspired bowls of steamed Bhutanese red rice, Khorasan wheat grain, vegetables and mint tossed in sesame-ginger dressing. Busting yet another stereotype, there’s also an unexpectedly superb wine list here that includes pricey California labels like Wolf Family and Quintessa.

One of the most interesting undercurrents within the larger trend of plant-based cuisine is the emergence of the Latin-themed vegan restaurant. Gracias Madre in West Hollywood not only honors the role of mothers in traditional Mexican kitchens, but executive chef Chandra Gilbert also applies interesting multicultural twists to her organic, vegan menus. Starters might include cumin-scented lentil empanadas with tamarind-mint chutney, or hearts of palm “crab cakes” with chipotle aioli, which diners could follow with a Guatemalan-style tamal or sopes topped with guacamole, pineapplehabanero salsa, beans and cashew crema. For dessert, a fudge brownie is topped with salted mezcal caramel, coconut “bacon” and faux whipped cream.

In L.A., a plentiful selection of vegan dishes can be found at many Indian, Chinese and Middle Eastern restaurants, as well as at Satdha Plant-Based Thai Kitchen, whose menu is exclusively vegan. After munching on complimentary crispy kale chips, consider pad thai, an artfully plated quintet of mung-bean croquettes or vermicelli with mushroom-curry sauce. Finish with the likes of coconut black sticky rice with mango or taro tapioca pudding, all beautifully presented in this inviting eatery with sleek, modern lines.

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Meat Done Well Los Angeles chefs are increasingly infatuated with meat, applying sophisticated, handcrafted techniques to world-class proteins.

The outsider’s perception of the Los Angeles dining scene frequently involves images of models picking at salads, or trend-conscious chefs using tweezers to meticulously arrange microgreens. While these practices certainly occur in local restaurants, they are not the dominant trend: In L.A., both chefs and diners are currently obsessed with meat.

From platters of charcuterie to massive slabs of generously marbled Kobe beef, internationally inspired meat dishes are turning Angelenos into major-league carnivores. Contemporary steakhouses, Brazilian churrascarias and Korean barbecue restaurants are all enormously popular, even among the salad-pickers who previously defined the local food culture. In addition to the cultural diversity involved, what distinguishes the meat scene in L.A. is a passionate commitment to artisanal practices.

Downtown L.A.’s Arts District, a swath of crumbling, largely vacant factories, is rapidly transforming into a collection of trendy galleries, bistros, boutiques, industrialchic office spaces and stylish lofts. Bestia was one of the first restaurants to make the A.D. a major culinary destination, thanks to chef Ori Menashe’s handmade pasta and his bold, in-your-face flavors. The restaurant’s design features chandeliers crafted from vintage meat hooks hanging over a marble counter, not far from a glass-ensconced cur-

ing chamber for Menashe’s artisanal meats.

At Bestia, all meats are procured locally, then butchered and cured in the restaurant’s own kitchen, thereby maintaining control over the entire process. The current selection includes fennel-pollen salami, speck, duck prosciutto, lardo, coppa di testa (head cheese), bresaola and basturma. Ordering a platter for the table, with mostarda and grilled rustic bread, is one of the best ways to ease into the Bestia experience, which is enhanced by a quirky bottle of Lambrusco or celebratory prosecco.

After enjoying those cured meats, guests might move on to pan-roasted chicken gizzards with beets, agnolotti alla vaccinara (cacao pasta stuffed with oxtail) or whole branzino. Menashe, a native Angeleno who grew up in Israel, naturally is passionate about Middle Eastern flavors and will soon be applying them to a Mediterranean-spiced charcuterie program at a new, yet-to-benamed Arts District restaurant.

Mélisse, awarded a pair of Michelin stars for its modern French cuisine, is about the closest thing L.A. has to a bona fide temple of gastronomy. Now chef/owner Josiah Citrin has introduced Charcoal in Venice, a casual spot where everything is cooked over an open flame.

The concept for Charcoal was partially inspired by a restaurant in Biarritz—back when Citrin and fellow L.A. chef Raphael Lunetta were cooking and surfing in France

on the Bay of Biscay—and its menu suits L.A.’s current obsession with meat. At Charcoal, 20-something chef Joseph Johnson, a Citrin protégé, cooks premium-grade proteins and farmers-market produce with very few sauces to mask any mistakes in execution. The menu includes beef-heart and lamb tartare, smoked and grilled bonein short rib, grilled lobster and a colossal, 48-ounce dry-aged porterhouse.

Butchers & Barbers is an American bistro from Jonnie and Mark Houston, the twin brothers whose collection of hip Hollywood watering holes has furthered the district’s resurgence. A full menu of well-executed fare is what distinguishes B&B from the brothers’ other enterprises. All meats that go onto the formidable charcuterie platter are cured in-house by executive chef Luke Reyes, who whole-beast butchers on-site. The charcuterie is great for snacking on while sipping a cocktail that cleverly combines rye whiskey, amaretto, black-walnut bitters and a Chartreuse-flamed artichoke. It’s also the perfect prelude to an 18-ounce fennel-pollen-dusted pork chop with plum/pine-nut gremolata or a hanger steak with Point Reyes blue cheese.

Occupying a former barbershop next to No Vacancy, one of the brothers’ lively Hollywood bars, Butchers & Barbers has plenty of visual appeal, with warm retro architectural elements creating a comforting environment for tourists as well as for local foodies.

Belcampo Meat Co., which raises cattle on

SIERRA PRESCOTT

by ROGER GRODY

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Smoked brisket and spareribs at Barrel & Ashes in Studio City

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a 12,000-acre ranch in Northern California, now operates a premium butchery at downtown’s reinvigorated Grand Central Market.

There, you can find virtually anything, noseto-tail, for your home kitchen or enjoy a lamb burger or pulled-pork Benedict right there at the market. The company also operates a fullservice restaurant of the same name in Santa Monica: a handsome, unfussy place with an adjoining butcher shop. Guests might begin with tallow chips and Taleggio cheese, grilled beef heart with salsa verde or goat tartare before proceeding to short ribs or steak frites.

It’s not Kansas City or Memphis, but L.A. has always been a respectable barbecue town, although most of the good joints were opened by transplants from those places where ’cue is like a religion. Although Phillips and Bludso’s serve sensational slowcooked, smoked meats, the spotlight now is on upscale barbecue, and one of the most notable spots is Studio City’s Barrel & Ashes.

Simple smoked meats may sound like an odd choice for accomplished chef/owner Timothy Hollingsworth—the former chef de cuisine at the French Laundry also launched the Broad museum-adjacent Otium downtown—but this is no ordinary barbecue.

At Barrel & Ashes, currently one of the toughest reservations in the Valley, protein is sourced from the finest ranches and butchers, and no compromises are made in the quality of the local produce. As a result, the Frito pie served here is nothing like the one you may have concocted in college, and it’s paired not with a can of Pabst Blue Ribbon but cocktails from esteemed mixologist Julian Cox. The succulent shards of pulled pork originate at Idaho’s Salmon Creek Farms, and regulars swear that the Best Damn Chick’n Sandwich isn’t just hyperbole.

Further demonstrating that barbecue is trending in L.A. is Culver City’s Maple Block Meat Co., opened by fine-dining chefs Adam Cole (the Bazaar, Ink.) and Daniel Weinstock (Spago). Humanely raised animals are butchered on-site to keep the chefs emotionally connected to the product—a sense of commitment that definitely trickles down to guests. In addition, meats are smoked over indigenous Southern California peach wood, an attempt to distinguish this ’cue from the hickory-perfumed meats of the Deep South or the fragrance of oak prevalent in Texas.

The beef brisket, however, has the kind of gorgeous bark and smoke ring that you’d

find in the Lone Star State, and for lunch, it’s layered into a soft-but-sturdy challah bun along with red slaw, pickled shallots and an herbal green sauce. Pork spareribs are juicy and succulent, and at dinnertime, a whole roasted chicken, finished over a wood grill, pairs beautifully with biscuits, a killer mac and cheese or smoked peewee potatoes with Espelette pepper and crème fraîche. The restaurant is uncharacteristically bright and airy for this genre, and in the evening hours, the best seats in the house are the stools at the maple-block cutting board. They afford an up-close-and-personal view of Cole—he’s the partner who was born in Texas and raised in North Carolina—and his designerdenim apron-clad crew turning out a quintessentially L.A. brand of ’cue.

The Cannibal, a meat eater’s mecca in Manhattan’s Flatiron District, is putting down West Coast roots at Culver City’s new Metro-station-adjacent development called Platform, certain to be a multimodal destination. Charcuterie is a religion at the Cannibal, and artisanal selections at the soon-to-open outpost will include Thai-style sausage and Peking-duck rillettes. Raw-meat aficionados will appreciate the steak and lamb tartares.

Dylan + Jeni. Opposite, clockwise from top right: Courtesy the cannibal; Andrea Bricco; Clay McLachlan (2)

Half chicken salsa verde at Charcoal.

Opposite, left: Belcampo Meat Co.'s Northern California ranch and signage; bottom right: Maple Block Meat Co.’s signature sliced brisket sandwich

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Dylan + Jeni. Opposite, clockwise from top right: Courtesy the cannibal; Andrea Bricco; Clay McLachlan (2)

A chef’s selection of cured meats, almost exclusively domestic, may include the likes of handcrafted La Quercia speck (the best thing to come out of Iowa since Maytag blue cheese) or prosciutto from New York’s beloved Salumeria Biellese.

In addition to the Cannibal’s superb charcuterie, executive chef Francis Derby will offer alluring bar snacks that include bone marrow, a variety of hot dogs, tandoori lamb belly and an interesting selection of veggies. True to the restaurant’s tagline of “beer and butcher,” you’ll be able to wash it all down with a brew from a formidable multinational list boasting more than 500 labels. If you’re into cycling— founder Christian Pappanicholas is passionate about the sport—you’re in luck. Cyclists who show up in racing attire will receive their second beer free, not to mention musette bags, rice energy bars and use of a bike valet.

Influential husband-and-wife restaurateurs Quinn and Karen Hatfield call their newest place, Odys + Penelope, a modern churrasco and grill. Located a few doors from the couple’s casual Sycamore Kitchen in La Brea Avenue’s burgeoning design district, Odys + Penelope is partially inspired by a Brazil-

smoked short rib with a sweet, Westernstyle barbecue sauce. There are notable vegetarian dishes as well, such as grilled asparagus with hollandaise-gribiche sauce, and shaved Brussels sprouts with almonds, capers and dried apricots. In the spirit of a genuine churrascaria, the menu offers a dry-aged sirloin cap, a cut commonly referred to as picanha in São Paulo. And with Karen Hatfield’s credentials as a pastry chef—think brown-butter crostata with macerated strawberries and lemon-verbena ice cream, ricotta fritters or chocolate-meringue pie— the finales are not to be missed.

Chef Kris Morningstar has long been regarded as one of the city’s top charcuterie specialists, and at Terrine, he continues to present artisanal cured meats and terrines for a trendy crowd. The restaurant’s beloved charcuterie plate, served on a wood board, generally includes andouille sausage, pork rillettes and a rustic pâté, along with velvety truffled chicken-liver mousse and condiments. Although Terrine has French roots, the spirit of this brasserie is pure California, and there are few settings in L.A. as lovely as this restaurant’s secluded, shady patio.

The Cannibal’s charcuterie board



Carnivore Club Barrel & Ashes 11801 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.623.8883 Belcampo Meat Co. 1026 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.744.8008 Bestia 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 BierBeisl Imbiss Spring Arcade Bldg., 541 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.935.8035 Butchers & Barbers 6531 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.1464 The Cannibal Platform, 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City Charcoal 425 W. Washington Blvd., Venice, 310.751.6794 Maple Block Meat Co. 3973 Sepulveda Blvd., Culver City, 310.313.6328

ian churrascaria, where massive amounts of protein are consumed. Here everything is ordered à la carte, and the joy of tucking into big slabs of grilled meat permeates the room. Odys + Penelope is clad in brick and reclaimed wood, a rusticity that properly reflects the menu. In addition to an open kitchen, there’s a recessed compartment for the storage of split logs, a constant reminder of the live-fire cooking.

The menu features churrasco porchetta with plum-and-pluot mostarda, slow-grilled tri-tip with the house’s special béarnaise sauce, and a massive hunk of applewood-

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In 2012, BierBeisl arrived in Beverly Hills and, sadly, disappeared before most people could experience it—but not before chef/ owner Bernhard Mairinger nabbed a James Beard Award nomination. Fortunately, he just opened BierBeisl Imbiss in downtown’s revitalized Spring Arcade Building, a more casual version of the original concept.

Warmed by exposed brick and tabletops clad in wood salvaged from an old neighborhood gymnasium, this is a casual place to enjoy a handcrafted bratwurst with a German beer or a remarkably good Wiener schnitzel with a glass of Austrian wine.

Odys + Penelope 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 Terrine 8265 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.746.5130

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OSKA 9693 Wilshire Boulevard Beverly Hills, CA 90212 310 271 2806 OSKA 13 Douglas Alley Pasadena, CA 91103 626 432 1729 Shop online beverlyhills.oska.com

Beverly Hills / Chicago / Edina / Healdsburg / Mill Valley / New York / Pasadena / Seattle / Calgary / Vancouver London / Paris / Munich / Amsterdam / Stockholm

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where abouts Los Angeles is the most populous county in the nation and among the most culturally diverse. Its 4,000 square miles encompass dozens of cities and more than 200 neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. The pages that follow will guide you through the most visited among them, pointing out starring attractions and uncovering hidden gems along the way.

DAVE LAURIDSEN

NEIGHBORHOOD INDEX

28

BEVERLY HILLS

40

HOLLYWOOD

48

PASADENA

32

SANTA MONICA

44

DOWNTOWN

52

THE VALLEY

36

WEST HOLLYWOOD

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EXPLORING

Beverly Hills BEVERLY HILLS IS A LUXURY LOVER’S MECCA: DESIGNER SHOPPING, FINE DINING, MANSIONS. CENTURY CITY, WESTWOOD AND CULVER CITY ARE POCKETS WITH THEIR OWN DRAWS.

➺It’s only 5 square miles, but Beverly Hills looms large in pop culture as a posh locale that boasts some The Mansions

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the then-new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansionbuilding in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more diverse than the region’s moniker Tinseltown might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book ahead with Starline Tours, to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Park & Mansion, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

Rodeo Drive + Golden Triangle

From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as

the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Burberry, Saint Laurent and Gucci each recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to fine-art destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo.

Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and recently revamped Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

The Industry + the Arts

Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment businesses based

here. Rub shoulders with the power-lunchers at Thomas Keller’s Bouchon or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Cañon, or grab dinner and a jazz performance at Spaghettini & the Dave Koz Lounge just up the street.

The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. There is even more cultural programming at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

Century City

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.7-squaremile modern acropolis of Century City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are a Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, with luxury boutiques and dining venues to rival those of Beverly Hills.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY BEVERLY HILLS CVB; EDWIN SANTIAGO. OPPOSITE: MATT HARTMAN

of the priciest mansions in L.A. County, not to mention the world’s most recognizable ZIP code. Rodeo Drive, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping street, offers virtually every luxury fashion brand.

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new in town Canon Club

Seafood, farmersmarket-driven dishes and beautiful craft cocktails are on the menu at this Cañon Drive spot. 340 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.858.4500

Scotch & Soda

Not a bar but a vintage-inspired clothing boutique for men and women, this shop marks the Amsterdam brand’s fourth Euroboho outpost in SoCal. 365 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.284.7300

Viviane

The Avalon Hotel Beverly Hills’ swanky new poolside restaurant features a menu by chef Michael Hung (Faith & Flower), 1950s-inspired cocktails and a midcenturymodern design by Kelly Wearstler. 9400 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.407.7791

Storefronts along North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills.

Opposite, from left: Welcome to Beverly Hills; the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts

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The pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings.

Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, inside the towering residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA

A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country.

Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden on the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens.

The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses Impressionist paintings, as well as cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

g r e at f i n d

Westwood Village

Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street.

Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

Culver City

Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with new restaurants including Koreanbarbecue spot Hanjib and Indian-inspired Sambar. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang,

/gourmet gifting

➺ When shopping in Beverly Hills, duck into Wally’s Beverly Hills for the foodie equivalent of browsing designer duds. Christian Navarro and Guess founders Maurice, Paul and Armand Marciano opened the European-style vinoteca as a companion to Westwood mainstay Wally’s Wine and Spirits, offering a fine-dining restaurant and a gourmet marketplace under one roof. Sit on the patio for a little you time with a glass of vino and a black-truffle pizzetta (courtesy of executive chef David Féau), then browse the selection of over 2,500 bottles of wine, Champagne, high-end gift baskets, truffles (pictured right), chocolates, caviar and more. With these gifts in hand, you’ll be the most popular guest at any party.

447 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.475.3540, wallysbeverlyhills.com —G.G.

from top: matt hartman; courtesy wally’s

The Culver City station on the Metro Expo Line

bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. Traveling east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. At the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is one end of the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that goes from Culver City to Exposition Park and the University of Southern California to downtown.

Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened on Washington. In 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with 16 soundstages accommodating TV-show and feature-film shoots at Culver Studios and hits such as the Spider-Man franchise produced on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 92.

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exploring

Santa Monica Santa Monica has the approachable vibe of a beach town with the attractions of a major city. Malibu, Venice and marina del rey are appealing options nearby.

➺In the 1800s, orator Tom Fitch called Santa Monica “the Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century

version of Santa Monica fulfills its early promise, with a bustling downtown and beach that attract millions of visitors per year. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with draws such as Malibu and Marina del Rey. Third Street Promenade, three pedestrianonly blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas or gawk at the myriad street artists.

If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to Mercado or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at The Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats.

Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the top-level Dining Deck with chef-driven restaurants and great views. East on Broadway is the legendary Fred Segal, an emporium of high-end shops such as JET John Eshaya.

Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

Main Street + Montana Avenue

Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V., Dermalogica and new Malin + Goetz. Father’s Office is known for its burgers, new Ox & Son and Forma are tops for upscale fare, and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes.

Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, restaurants, including Chinois on Main, and shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorianera home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

The Arts

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank

Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performingarts, film, dance and theater venue.

As L.A. has emerged as a fine-arts capital, the campuslike Bergamot Station arts center on Michigan Avenue has become an important destination. It’s home to some 30 galleries and a café.

Malibu

Twenty miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony in the 1920s, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrity-home central continues today.

Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and

top left and opposite: dale berman

Third Street + the Pier

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new in town Blue Star Donuts

The Portland, Oregon, chain churns out brioche doughnuts in inventive flavors at its first L.A. shop. 1142 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.5630

Current/Elliott

The L.A.-based label—beloved for its vintage-inspired denim—opens its debut brick-andmortar shop. 1132 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.291.3300

Ted Baker

The London-based clothing designer arrives at the Malibu Country Mart with a whimsical boutique that marries quirky British sayings with 1950s surf culture. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Ste. 12, Malibu, 310.456.1785

.

The Getty Center in Brentwood. Opposite, from left: Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica; Santa Monica State Beach

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Malibu’s land was once so coveted that heiress May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers.

main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as Superba Snack Bar and reborn Rose Cafe-Restaurant, plus a smattering of hip shops. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, between the performers, the vendors and the Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

Brentwood

Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard shopping centers, there are enough shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon.

Inland, nearing Calabasas, is wine country, where you can sample the local vino at tasting rooms such as Malibu Wines.

Topanga + Pacific Palisades

In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining.

There’s more than initially meets the eye

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in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road.

Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park, and cafés and upscale momand-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake.

The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

Venice

Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, today lined with million-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Heist and Huset are the

/ rub-a-dub

➺ The first thing you notice when you walk into Soaptopia is the scent. Or rather,

scents. There’s a whiff of floral, a trace of vanilla, an aroma of … hmm, might that be eucalyptus? It’s all that and more at this West L.A. body-products store, where the manufacturing kitchen is separated from the retail boutique by a mere wall of open shelving. The store’s tagline promises 100 percent junk-free body products, and from the sights and smells wafting from the kitchen stove, it’s easy to believe. Come here to find one-of-a-kind gifts like L.A. Squeeeeeeze soap (key ingredients: lemon and lavender), Flower to the People body balm (cedarwood, rose geranium and patchouli) and Feeling Pine bath salts (black spruce and lavender). 12228 ½ Venice Blvd., Mar Vista, 310.398.8333, soaptopia.com —C.S.

Marilyn Monroe once called this enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite stamping grounds of the affluent and famous. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale.

The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.

Marina del Rey

Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Newer Catch & Release draws area foodies, and restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views. For an up-close look at the harbor’s marine life, rent kayaks from Marina del Rey Boat Rentals.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.­­ For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 92. from top: Angela DeCenzo; courtesy soaptopia

Skateboarders take a break at Venice Beach.

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G

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WE GO WHERE THE STARS GO!

See the hottest spots in Hollywood, Beverly Hills and the Sunset Strip where celebrities go to play and get in trouble.

Hear inside information about Hollywood celebs, and the stories that TMZ made famous.

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EXPLORING

West Hollywood TRENDS IN FASHION, DESIGN AND FOOD OFTEN BEGIN IN L.A., AND MANY OF THOSE INNOVATIONS CAN BE TRACED TO THE PIONEERING COMMUNITY OF WEST HOLLYWOOD.

➺For a municipality measuring less than 2 square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West

Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a number of world-class art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike.

After dark, this iconic stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest.

Other Sunset Strip nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and newer 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase the leading names in stand-up, as well as emerging stars. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic.

Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. Skybar, at the style-conscious Mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

Sunset Plaza

Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a

collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl.

For up-to-the-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa, a mani-pedi at Jessica Nail Clinic, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington.

Melrose Avenue

Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street with multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Ron Herman, Rebecca Minkoff, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the quiet, fashionable three-block

street of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Frédéric Fekkai and cutting-edge boutiques such as the Row, Isabel Marant, Zimmermann and Violet Grey.

West Hollywood Design District

Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its new offerings are a Helmut Lang flagship and the first freestanding RH Modern Gallery. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—which houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury homeowners and is home to a satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

Beverly + West 3rd

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street are major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, filled with trendy restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques

DALE BERMAN (2). OPPOSITE: DAVE LAURIDSEN

Sunset Strip

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NEW IN TOWN Estrella

Top Chef’s Dakota Weiss’ restaurant offers California cuisine and cocktails named after classicrock songs. 8800 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.6613

Petersen Automotive Museum

The overhauled museum reopens with 25 new galleries and an exterior reminiscent of a racetrack. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277

Rick Owens

The fashion icon and California native arrives on La Brea with a “Cecil B. DeMille-worthy” boutique. 819 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4960

Chris Burden’s installation Urban Light at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Opposite, from left: Farmers Market; Topshop at the Grove

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M Beverly Hills may be the county’s toniest shopping district, but Robertson Boulevard is not far behind.

from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, whose design is reminiscent of Paris’ Centre Pompidou. Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Fendi, Gucci, Giuseppe Zanotti, True Religion Brand Jeans, Uniqlo, Maje and Sandro boutiques are among more than 160 establishments drawing consumers.

On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as Flight 001 for stylish travel supplies, OK for designminded gifts and Wittmore for contemporary menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot Son of a Gun and Vic Casanova’s Italian steakhouse Pistola. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals and high-end home decor and accessories at Garde, then dine on American cuisine at Cooks County, French-inspired California dishes at Terrine or Italian fare on the romantic patio at Dominick’s.

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Robertson Boulevard

Beverly Hills may be the county’s toniest shopping district, but Robertson Boulevard is not far behind, particularly if you’re young and hot and have your own reality show.

The celebutante set hits 3.1 Phillip Lim for womenswear, Lululemon for haute yoga duds and Kitson for trendy accessories. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail with crab cakes on the picket-fenced patio of Ivy restaurant, where famous faces practically outnumber those of civilians.

Fairfax District

L.A.’s Fairfax District is among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000

/ apartment therapy

➺ The Line, a New York-based online retail store under the creative direction of co-founder/stylist Vanessa Traina Snow and Melanie Glass, has arrived on Melrose Place with its second offline home, The Apartment by The Line— Los Angeles. Designed as an elegant residence, the second-floor shop invites you to travel through its rooms to peruse chic fashion and home, beauty and art goods such as Agnes Baddoo totes, Common Projects leather slip-ons, Sophie Buhai jewelry and beautiful textiles (like the blanket at right) from the store’s new home-goods label, Tenfold. Yearning to move in? Book a private appointment to take advantage of bespoke services such as wardrobe and interior styling. 8463 Melrose Place, second floor, L.A., 323.746.5056, theline.com —S.E.

FROM TOP: COURTESY THE ROW; COURTESY THE LINE

The Row on Melrose Place, one of Los Angeles’ most exclusive shopping areas

works. The Broad Contemporary Art Museum, designed by architect Renzo Piano, showcases art from the contemporary and modern eras; more recent additions to the LACMA campus include the Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavilion and Ray’s and Stark Bar. Adjacent to LACMA is the La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the Ice Age comes alive. Additional venues on this formidable Museum Row include the newly renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and the Craft and Folk Art Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious foodies: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed traditional restaurants are located.

One of the district’s anchors is the historic Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 open-air produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, taqueria and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo and Korean barbecue.

Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrian-only shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as new Paige and Sephora are joined by myriad restaurants including Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 92-93.

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MEMORIES MADE FRESH DAILY FROM AN 81 YEAR–OLD FAMILY RECIPE.

LOS ANGELES’ FAVORITE SHOPPING & DINING DESTINATION SINCE 1934 Since its inception, The Original Farmers Market has delivered exceptional shopping, fresh food and fond memories. This Southern California landmark features open-air ambiance and an ecletic mix of over 100 specialty shops, artisan grocers, and world-class restaurants — many of which are still owned and operated by generations-old family merchants. We invite you to visit one of the city’s most iconic destinations, made from the timeless ingredients of family, friends and fun.

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EXPLORING

Hollywood HOLLYWOOD IS IN THE MIDST OF A NEW GOLDEN AGE, AND ITS HIP, UP-AND-COMING NEIGHBORS LOS FELIZ, SILVER LAKE AND ECHO PARK SHARE IN THE LIMELIGHT.

➺“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was experiencing Hollywood & Highland

Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Ohm nightclub, dining spots and shops such as Sweet! candy store and Louis Vuitton. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity hand- and footprints embedded in the concrete out front.

Showtime

Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored

by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and children-pleasing stage shows.

Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb

was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including The Book of Mormon and Wicked, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

Walk of Fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry.

More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath the feet of tourists, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is appropriately located in front of the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

Museums, Hollywood-style

Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to

TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift.

You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Record Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.

Around Vine

The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment-industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie.

A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the

FROM LEFT: LISA ROMEREIN; DALE BERMAN. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

a decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination, and waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals.

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NEW IN TOWN

Mama Shelter

Part of a Frenchbased chain, this hip boutique hotel boasts interiors by Thierry Gaugain, a bar and a diner with healthy fare. 6500 Selma Ave., L.A., 323.785.6666

MiniBar

Nestled next to 101 Coffee Shop in the Best Western Plus Hollywood Hills Hotel is this retro bar for the sophisticated set. 6141 Franklin Ave., L.A., 323.798.4939

Sugarfish

Kazunori Nozawa’s fine-casual sushi empire adds another location. 6115 W. Sunset Blvd., Ste. 170, Hollywood, 323.320.4800

Hollywood Pantages Theatre.

Opposite, from left: Eclectic gifts at Wacko/Soap Plant in Los Feliz; performers and onlookers on the Hollywood Walk of Fame

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Among the largest urban parks in America, sprawling Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more.

Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo, and bar, the Library.

Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia.

A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by other cool boutiques.

Nightcrawling

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife opportunities, and a lively barand-club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-

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themed Hemingway’s, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality’s hot spots Butchers & Barbers and adjacent No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at clubs like Playhouse. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to dozens of clubs and eateries including chef Brendan Collins’ excellent Birch.

Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September.

Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A.

Los Feliz + Silver Lake

These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing

/ here’s the scoop

➺ One of L.A.’s many perks? Even during wintertime, you can still enjoy frosty

treats without getting frostbite. In Los Feliz, Ohio-based artisanal-ice-cream pioneer Jeni Britton Bauer has opened the first West Coast outpost of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams. Made with milk from grass-grazed Ohio cows, each ice cream is filled out with carefully sourced ingredients from around the world, including Fair-Tradecertified African vanilla and Dutch cocoa. Order flavors like salty caramel and wildberry lavender, or opt for wintry treats like sweet potato with praline pecan or dark-chocolate peppermint. Get yours in a cup, handmade waffle cone or by the pint. And don’t miss the signature ice-cream sandwiches (mashed between two hand-piped macaroons). 1954 Hillhurst Ave., L.A., 323.928.2668, jenis.com —G.G.

Griffith Park

Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also located here are the Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 93-94.

from top: dale berman; courtesy jeni’s

Visitors ride a miniature train on the Griffith Park & Southern Railroad.

sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/ gallery Wacko, hip Bar Covell and Mother Dough, a locals’-favorite pizza parlor. Fully transformed is Silver Lake Boulevard, now crowded with eateries and upscale retailers.

At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

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©2014 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 14-ADV-15836

©2014 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 14-ADV-15836

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EXPLORING

Downtown L.A.’S URBAN CENTER REFLECTS THE CULTURAL DIVERSITY, WORLD-CLASS ARCHITECTURE AND DYNAMIC COMMERCE THAT MAKE THE CITY A SUPERSTAR ON THE GLOBAL STAGE.

➺Downtown Los Angeles could not be hotter, with new restaurants and shops opening daily. Historic art

deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and even movie stars are snapping up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts scene roars to life here, where the image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies.

Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the station, which celebrated its 75th anniversary last year, has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From Union Station, the hub of the Metro system, you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or Expo Line to Culver City. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer scenic coastal journeys.

Grand Avenue + Music Center

The heart of L.A.’s performing-arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at the Music Center.

The 3,200-seat Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host

theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic and its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, media and performing-arts productions.

After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park, between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and First and Temple streets.

Descending Bunker Hill

Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad, the magnificent new museum built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Both house premier collections of contemporary art. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent to MOCA; nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery amid the concrete jungle.

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (now dormant) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest

Railway in the World.” At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Across the street is the art deco-style Los Angeles Public Library.

Olvera Street

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.

Historic Districts

Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel), have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and Aesop lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, built in 1893 in

FROM LEFT: MATT HARTMAN; LISA ROMEREIN. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Union Station

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NEW IN TOWN Clifton’s

After a multimilliondollar renovation, the iconic 1930s cafeteria is back in the spotlight, serving up old-school cafeteria fare (Jell-O, anyone?) and kitsch. 648 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.627.1673

Nick + Stef’s

The Bunker Hill steakhouse reopens after a total transformation, including an extensive redesign and a new menu. 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330

Le Petit Paris

This stunning restaurant—a Cannes transplant—serves classic French staples in a 1913 Historic Core building. 418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445

K.G. Louie Co.’s storefront in Chinatown.

Opposite, from left: Grand Park and City Hall; sweets from Bottega Louie on South Grand Avenue

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Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters.

former St. Vibiana’s cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s east is the rapidly gentrifying Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and eateries including Bestia, one of the top restaurants (and hardest reservations to nab) in L.A.

L.A. Live

the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes The Varnish.

Shopping Districts

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the

G R E AT F I N D

burgeoning Figat7th shopping center boasts trendy new boutiques and eateries.

Chinatown

Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at new foodie-favorite spots like Pok Pok L.A. or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include Thien Hau Temple and the Chinese American Museum. Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to galleries; Broadway boasts boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours, tastings and Maddalena restaurant.

Little Tokyo

Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and you can nibble on traditional sushi prepared by veteran chefs at Japanese Village Plaza. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the

/ tea party

➺ L.A. loves its coffee, but tea has an undeniable sophistication. Enter American Tea Room, a Beverly Hills staple that has a new outpost downtown. The Arts District space features a chic lounge, a reclaimed-wood bar and an oasis tea garden bedecked with a 25-foot living wallscape and fire pits, plus a retail area that offers tea blends, bowls and glassware. An interactive “Tea Zone” computer system matches patrons with their perfect black, green, white, oolong or caffeine-free tea from more than 200 global varieties, which they can pair with culinary director Valerie Gordon’s pastries and lunch items (think oolong chicken salad and savory hand pies). Whether you’re a tea novice or aficionado, this spot will quickly become your cup of tea. 909 S. Santa Fe Ave., downtown, 213.239.9105, americantearoom.com —G.G.

Exposition Park

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. The California African American Museum delves into African-American history, and the Beaux Arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of downtown, see page 93.

FROM TOP: DANIEL ENNIS; COURTESY AMERICAN TEA ROOM

A mural in downtown’s burgeoning Arts District—one of Los Angeles’ best places to see street art

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Rock’n Fish and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

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EXPLORING

Pasadena THE BLOOM OF PASADENA DOESN’T FADE AFTER NEW YEAR’S DAY, AS A BLEND OF SMALL-TOWN CHARM AND COSMOPOLITAN ENERGY MAKES THE CROWN CITY A YEAR-ROUND DESTINATION.

➺Minutes from downtown L.A. via the Arroyo Seco Parkway (Pasadena Freeway) or the Metro Gold Line Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to Urban Outfitters, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant.

Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square.

Boutiques such as Vince and Cop.Copine draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-the-art technology, plush seats and a bar/café.

Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the West. The galleries are filled with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of Impressionist masters (e.g., Monet, Cézanne, Van Gogh) is formidable. A sculpture garden features a major tribute to Degas.

East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original Beaux Arts grandeur.

Playhouse District + South Lake Avenue

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art-house cinema, antique shops, boutiques and bookstores, as well as the Le Cordon Bleu-affiliated College of Culinary Arts and the famed Ice House comedy club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld.

Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum, featuring decorative arts from every corner of Asia. The Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State painters and sculptors from 1850 to the present.

East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at the Commons

and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its Chuan Spa.

San Marino + San Gabriel Valley

South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections and botanical gardens occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art, and a library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen & Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,400 varieties of the flower.

Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia,

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY THE NORTON SIMON ART FOUNDATION. OPPOSITE: LISA ROMEREIN

commuter train is Pasadena. Its architectural pedigree is world-class, and renowned institutions including the Tournament of Roses and Caltech lend it cachet. The city’s diverse neighbors are also worth discovering.

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NEW IN TOWN

Communal Food & Drink

This rustic beer garden serves elevated pub fair (think steak frites and shrimp and grits) with small-production craft beer and wine in a greenhouselike space. 1009 El Centro St., South Pasadena, 626.345.5128

Kit and Ace

The Pasadena outpost of the expanding Vancouver brand specializing in “technical luxury” clothing (hello, machine-washable cashmere) opened in November. 107 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 844.548.6223

Sangers & Joe

Wood & Vine’s Scott Kay and Dario Dell’Anno present their global take on breakfast and lunch (“sanger” is Australian slang for “sandwich”) in Old Pasadena. 57 E. Holly St., Pasadena, 323.553.0563

The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens. Opposite, from left: Windowshoppers in Old Pasadena; a gallery at the Norton Simon Museum

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The Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden’s natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peafowl.

home to Santa Anita Park, a storied thoroughbred horse-racing venue. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants, so the opportunity for enjoying Asian cuisine is virtually unrivaled in Southern California. Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the San Gabriel Mountains present hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

The Road to South Pasadena

The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including the

G R E AT F I N D

former Wrigley Mansion that now houses the Tournament of Roses Association.

North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene & Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915 whose vintage soda fountain is straight from a Norman Rockwell painting.

Eagle Rock + Glendale

West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a ven-

/ nailspiration

➺ Sarah Gibson Tuttle’s Beverly Hills nail salon, Olive & June, was an instant in-

crowd hit when it opened a few years back, and it remains an Instagram favorite (see the proof at #oliveyourmani). Now, Pasadena-area ladies can enjoy the O&J treatment without the commute, thanks to the opening of an outpost in the Commons outdoor shopping complex. There you’ll find the salon’s signature sunny, blushtoned interior, nontoxic polishes, friendly staff and expert mani-pedis—we’re fans of the Margot, featuring organic California beauty brands—plus a small but spot-on selection of Tuttle’s favorite beauty products. There’s also an adjacent Drybar, so you can leave with tresses as impeccable as your tips. Olive & June, you’ve nailed it again. 146 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.440.9700, olivejune.com —S.E.

FROM TOP: MATT HARTMAN; COURTESY OLIVE & JUNE

The Americana at Brand in Glendale

erable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College—where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate.

On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County.

There, office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Style-savvy shoppers can browse at boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak.

Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Steps from the Alex is the new Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft.

North of Glendale is Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 94.

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EXPLORING

The Valley HOLLYWOOD MIGHT BE THE SPIRITUAL CENTER OF THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY, BUT THE SAN FERNANDO VALLEY, AKA “THE OTHER SIDE OF THE HILL,” IS WHERE MOVIEMAKING MAGIC HAPPENS.

➺

Universal City

A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking. The theme park offers rollicking roller coasters and high-tech virtual-reality action rides such as the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction; the Simpsons Ride (adjacent to which is a new Springfieldthemed “world”); and a new studio-tour grand finale: the Fast & Furious—Supercharged! ride. Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park.

Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood, mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House and rock ‘n’ roll bowling at Jillian’s Hi Life Lanes. Restaurants include Karl Strauss Brewing Co., and boutiques such as Lush Cosmetics and Skechers will loosen your wallet.

Burbank

Burbank calls itself “the town behind the tinsel”—and with good reason. This cosmopolitan city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio.

Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros.

Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday.

As vibrant as it is, Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw.

More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the ever-popular Ikea, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with nightlife destinations, shops and trendy bistros such as Granville

Cafe. Another must-visit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and some of L.A.’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Pinup Girl are favorites). Always-packed Porto’s Bakery—one of the country’s top restaurants, according to Yelp—offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba.

Do you like the outdoors? Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses. And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series.

If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for Burbank’s uncongested Bob Hope Airport. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

FROM LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; DALE BERMAN. OPPOSITE: DAVE LAURIDSEN

The Valley is a sprawling collection of communities, each with its own attractions and charms.

Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge.

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The Federal Bar in North Hollywood.

Opposite, from left: Universal CityWalk in Universal City; a dessert from renowned Porto’s Bakery in Burbank

NEW IN TOWN Forman’s Tavern

This rustic Toluca Lake gastropub specializes in whiskey and elevated bar food. 10149 Riverside Drive, L.A., 818.760.6900

Sweet Rose Creamery

The Rustic Canyon empire expands with this organic-ice-cream shop in Tujunga Village. 4377 Tujunga Ave., Studio City, 310.260.2663

The Village at Topanga

Westfield Topanga’s open-air shopping and dining addition boasts offerings like Drybar and YogaWorks. 6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.594.8732

North Hollywood

North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub with a full calendar of music and comedy, and Idle Hour, a hot new bar in a barrel-shaped landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village.

From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

Ventura Boulevard

This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley.

Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and

Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene.

In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, elegant Bistro Garden and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims.

For shopping, there are charming boutiques, including Dari and Voyage et Cie, and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and featuring upscale boutiques. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces, thanks to the Valley’s family-oriented lifestyle.

Deep in the Valley

Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton and David Yurman.

The Village lifestyle destination opened this fall, expanding the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room. Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant openair destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons.

Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster enthusiasts gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 94.

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EXPLORING

South Bay

➺In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic

coastal stretch renowned for surfing and volleyball. To the north is El Segundo; to the south are the beautiful bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula and the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach.

Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. This laid-back city is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the city’s picturesque pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks. The pier features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as The Arthur J, Love & Salt, Little Sister and The Strand House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering spot, with shops such as the Beehive and hot spots including Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including a scenic 2-mile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from packed bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s and Killer Shrimp.

Beyond Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday-night shows. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and Steak & Whisky are standouts among the specialty shops and bistros that line Pier Avenue. Farther east, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear.

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat

Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here you find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick-andcasual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach.

One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

FROM LEFT: COURTESY HERMOSA BEACH CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND VISITORS BUREAU; COURTESY FISHING WITH DYNAMITE. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

THE SOUTH BAY’S BEACHES AND HARBORS ARE ACTION-PACKED, BUT THE LIVING IS EASY. LOOK FOR OCEAN-VIEW DINING, MOM-AND-POP SHOPS AND SEASIDE ATTRACTIONS.

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NEW IN TOWN Pike Outlets

The reinvigorated outlet-shopping center welcomes new stores, including H&M, Gap and Nike. 95 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, visitlongbeach.com

Sausal

This new downtown El Segundo hot spot serves “nuevo rancho cuisine” in a stylish, rustic space that honors SoCal history. 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721

Seafolly

Shop the Australian swimwear brand’s notice-me suits at this new concept store. 209 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4200

The Queen Mary in Long Beach. Opposite, from left: Hermosa Beach Pier; Fishing With Dynamite in Manhattan Beach

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Among Long Beach’s most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel.

The horseshoe-shaped pier in Redondo Beach

Palos Verdes Peninsula

Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a yearround attraction boasting 200,000 plants.

Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular gray-whalewatching site. Just beyond the adjacent Point Vicente lighthouse is the Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-square-foot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue. The nearby 18-hole public course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.

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San Pedro

The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as entertainment and educational facilities. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors. More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annually; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turned-museum USS Iowa. The New England-style Ports O’ Call Village offers waterfront restaurants and shops, and beyond it is the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex.

The complex also includes the Frank Gehrydesigned Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach—one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

/ artisan marketplace

➺ No crafts fair this weekend? Not to worry. There’s a permanent place to get your craft fix—not to mention some sea air—at the Port of Los Angeles. Art purveyor Wayne Blank has revitalized Warehouse No. 10 in San Pedro into a permanent crafts marketplace called Crafted. The 76,000-square-foot space houses dozens of artisans offering unique handmade specialties including glass, beads, candles, carved leather and artisanal foods. Indulge in a drunken chocolate-chip-martini cake pop as you peruse the craft cubicles. Brouwerij West, known for its delicious Belgian-inspired beers, is due this winter in adjacent Warehouse No. 9, and crafts demonstrations, live music and food trucks in the outdoor courtyard are scheduled for every weekend.

112 E. 22nd St., San Pedro, 310.732.1270, craftedportla.com —B.T.

In the county’s southwest corner, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor.

The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, the Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples.

Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintagefurniture and -clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 93.

FROM TOP: EDWIN SANTIAGO; COURTESY CRAFTED AT THE PORT OF LOS ANGELES

Long Beach

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where

the guide

M USEUM S

Life in Focus Voyage from the Big Bang to the present in Life: A Journey Through Time, a traveling exhibition of works by acclaimed photographer Frans Lanting on view at the Annenberg Space for Photography. The multiyear project brought the National Geographic contributor and his longtime partner and collaborator, Christine Eckstrom, to the rim of active volcanoes, deep into the Okavango Delta and to wondrous landscapes beyond. The result features more than 70 extraordinary images (including the flower hat jelly seen here), as well as an original documentary short film and four short videos exclusive to the Annenberg’s presentation. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000

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Dining SPOTLIGHT

American

Guidelines

abigailE A venture of Blackhouse Hospitality (Little Sister, Steak & Whisky, Día de Campo), this funky, graffitimuraled American brasserie with rooftop bar is lots of fun. Chef Tin Vuong presents escargot “poppers,” lambbelly poutine and a serious burger, washed down with house-brewed beer. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1301 Manhattan Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.798.8227 $$ Map L13

Index

ANIMAL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known to Food Network fans as the “Two Dudes,” is a carnivore’s dream. Think delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate-crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

American..............................60 Japanese................................65 Brewpubs/Gastropubs....62 Mediterranean....................66 British/Irish..........................62 Mexican/Latin....................66 California...............................62 Pan-Asian..............................66 Chinese..................................63 Seafood.................................. 67 Eclectic/Fusion...................63 Spanish.................................. 67 French.....................................63 Steak.......................................68 Italian......................................63 Thai..........................................69

Noodle Around Miyamoto Musashi is a legendary samurai, but even his twin blades couldn’t achieve the precision of Musashiya, a new udon restaurant from Justice Foods USA that honors his name in Westwood Village.

Musashiya runs housemade dough through a machine up to a dozen times, until the noodles’ thickness registers 3 millimeters. Springy noodles are available either cold and coiled or bobbing in hot water. Choose from three different dipping broths: rich miso sprinkled with sesame, simmered beef with thin-sliced meat, and spicy soy milk with ground pork. Classic udon preparations are also available, as are carbonara with bacon and soft-boiled egg, tempura-fried items and filled hug (hand) rolls. Really, though, it’s all about udon. L, D (M-Sa). 1049 Gayley Ave., L.A., 310.208.5999 $ Map J9 —J.L.

butchers & barbers Local bar-masters the Houston brothers present this lively American bistro. A charcuterie board and roasted garlic-rosemary popcorn can be shared before moving on to an 18-ounce bone-in pork chop with plum-pine-nut gremolata. Creative artisanal cocktails and a vintage setting—Charlie Chaplin once lived in the building—enhance the experience. D (Tu-Su). 6531 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.1464 $$ Map H14 THe church key With off-menu items rolled table to table, this trendy spot has adopted the charm and spontaneity of dim sum. Signature dishes include the tapiocacrusted tai snapper. Mixologists dressed as Pan Am flight attendants steer airline food carts loaded with liquid-nitro cocktails. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 8730 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.249.3700 $$ Map H12 claim jumper Saloon-style eatery features grill fare and its own label of craft beer. L (varies by location), D (nightly); Br (varies by location). 3500 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.260.0505; 820 W. Huntington Drive, Monrovia, 626.359.0463; 9429 Tampa Ave., Northridge, 818.718.2882; 25740 The Old Road, Valencia, 661.254.2628; 6501 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Long Beach, 562.431.1321 $ Map T22, Q23, north of A1, D4 Clifton’s This kitschy downtown cafeteria, which dates back to the 1930s, recently reopened after a multimilliondollar renovation. The huge, multiple-story eatery offers old-school cuisine like a roast-meat carving station and Jell-O for dessert, as well as a craft-beer bar, all with woodland ambiance. Check website for new offerings and extended hours. L, D (daily). 648 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.627.1673, cliftonsla.com $$ Map I16 CRAFT New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary-American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 freds at barneys Inside Beverly Hills retail destination Barneys New York, the first West Coast outpost of the retailer’s signature restaurant is a go-to for brunch, power lunches, shopping breaks and happy hour. Try the robiolawith-truffle-oil pizza. L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 9570 Wilshire Blvd., fifth floor, Beverly Hills, 310.777.5877 $$$ Map J11 Independence This bright, friendly tavern in downtown Santa Monica pays homage to the Los Angeles & Independence Railroad, which connected downtown L.A.

with what is now the Santa Monica Pier back in 1875. The restaurant’s casual setting belies its refined New American cuisine that includes a kale chopped salad and orecchiette tuna confit. L (Tu-Su), D (nightly). 205 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.458.2500 $$$ Map L8 ink. Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio showcases daring molecular gastronomy at his first restaurant. Try a five-course tasting menu or explore à la carte items including smoked trout with radish and roe. D (nightly). 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.651.5866 $$$ Map I12 Joan’s on Third Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street, as well as a new location in the Valley, offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets, gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $ Map I12, T18 LEDLOW Chef Josef Centeno, who rules downtown’s Old Bank District (Bäco Mercat, Bar Amá, Orsa & Winston) has transformed Pete’s Café into Ledlow, a place with vintage good looks. The versatile chef offers twists on classic bistro dishes, American favorites and diverse cultural staples (think brioche French toast and chicken schnitzel). B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 400 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7000 $$ Map I17 m.b. post Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. The “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans and Brussels sprouts look tantalizing. L (F-Su), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 Odys + Penelope Churrasco and grill features a live-fire grill and wood-fired smoker. Eclectic, flavorful cuisine is accompanied by a menu of craft beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails. Vegan, vegetarian and glutenfree options also available. D (nightly). 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 $$$ Map B2 Ox & Son Farm-to-table restaurant and wine bar (now offering cocktails) is a fitting addition to charming Montana Avenue. Creative comfort-food menu includes items like mushroom parmesan cavatelli, plus glutenfree options. Br, L, D (daily). 1534 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.829.3990 $$$ Map K8 Plan Check Kitchen + Bar A growing minichain from chef Ernesto Uchimura. Contemporary takes on American classics are complemented with craft beers and premium whiskeys. Try the acclaimed Plan Check Burger, topped with dashi cheese and ketchup leather. L, D (daily). 1800 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.444.1411; 351 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.591.0094; 1111 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.403.1616 $$ Map K9, I12, H16

During the Great Depression, Clifton’s iconic downtown cafeteria was known for never turning away hungry diners who couldn’t pay for their meals. See listing above.

joshua lurie

BIRCH Cahuenga Corridor spot from chef Brendan Collins (Waterloo & City) serves a seasonally driven menu (the rabbit baklava with dates, white beans, pistachio and carrots is a standout) served in a whitewashed, clean-lined space. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Su).

1634 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.960.3369 $$$ Map H13

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Pump/V

The Most Refreshing Dining Choice for Beverly Hills Housewives All cocktails (well) all day and night $8

Restaurant & Bar: Open Daily 11:30am-10pm 9601 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 310-859-7600

The Sexiest Restaurant & Bar by Lisa Vanderpump

Restaurant & Bar: Open Monday-Friday 5pm-2am; Saturday-Sunday 11:30am-2am Happy Hour: Daily 5pm-7pm 8948 Santa Monica Blvd. West Hollywood, CA 90069 310-657-7867 (P-U-M-P) Saturday and Sunday Special BRUNCH 11:30am-5pm SPECIAL COCKTAIL PITCHERS

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Dining REDBIRD Acclaimed chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana, making Redbird both a cultural and culinary landmark. Rack of red wattle pork and chicken potpie are part of an intriguing menu. An updated Spanish baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. L (M-F), D (nightly). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 $$$ Map H17 SALT CREEK GRILLE Enjoy mesquite-grilled burgers, chops, steaks and seafood and an interesting selection of California beers and wines at this classic American restaurant, which boast outdoor patios and live music at both L.A.-area locations. El Segundo: L, D (daily). Valencia: L,D (daily); Br (Su). 2015 E. Park Place, El Segundo, 310.335.9288; 24415 Town Center Drive, 115, Valencia, 661.222.9999 $$ Map L14, north of A2 THE STRAND HOUSE This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a breezy, stylish bar that draws a lively but sophisticated crowd. Executive chef Greg Hozinsky’s menu includes such starters as foie gras and charcuterie, which might be followed by branzino with black-truffle risotto. Don’t miss pastry chef Stephanie Franz’s doughnuts! L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13

Breweries/Gastropubs FATHER’S OFFICE Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa-Su), D (nightly).

Culver City: L (F-Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11 PUBLIC KITCHEN & BAR Refined menu offers elevated versions of classic dishes; bar serves cured meats, cheeses and fresh cocktails. L (M-F), D (M-Sa).

Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.8888 $$$ Map G13 SIMMZY’S Popular pub with locations in Manhattan Beach, Long Beach, Burbank and just off the Venice pier.

The newer locations share the Manhattan Beach original’s friendly vibe and wide selection of craft beers (many locally brewed), hearty burgers (try the classic Simmzy’s), sandwiches, salads and other fresh fare. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 3000 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.962.2500; 5271 E. 2nd St., Long Beach, 562.439.5590; 229 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.1201; 37 Washington Blvd., Venice, 424.835.6580 $ Map T20, O17, L13, N9

Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery

British/Irish O’BRIEN’S IRISH PUB Pub and restaurant with brews and spirits, Irish and American cuisine, outdoor patio and live entertainment. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 2941 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.4725 $ Map M8 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, including acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips.

Open for breakfast weekends at 8am, Fabulous happy hour Mon–Fri 4-7pm.

Traditional Afternoon Tea is served Mon-Sat 11:30am-4:30pm.

Karaoke Sundays at 9pm. Heated patio. Quiz shows every Wednesday.

Call for soccer schedule.

Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more.

California Cuisine 208 RODEO This Mediterranean-influenced gem of a café sits above Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street at luxe Two Rodeo. Dishes include tomahawk steak and seafood fettuccine. B, L, D (daily). Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$ Map J11 CAVATINA Esteemed East Coast chef Michael Schlow’s first L.A. restaurant serves simple, local, delicious cuisine inside the rock 'n' roll-steeped Sunset Marquis Hotel.

Don’t miss Schlow’s award-winning burger. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1200 Alta Loma Road, West Hollywood, 310.358.3759 $$$ Map H12

116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

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Dining COMMISSARY Buzz-worthy poolside eatery from Roy Choi serves farm-to-table dishes in a greenhouselike setting. Emphasis on fruit- and vegetable-themed dishes and drinks makes it very vegetarian- and veganfriendly, but you’ll find a few meaty dishes on the menu as well. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). The Line Hotel, secondfloor greenhouse, 3515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.368.3030 $$ Map J14 FIG RESTAURANT Dine on a seasonal menu of bistro fare at this restaurant inside the Fairmont Miramar; charcuterie and cheese bar open at dinnertime. Sunday brunch features the virtuous, as well as the decadent, plus creative cocktails. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Fairmont Miramar Hotel, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111 $$ Map L8 GIRASOL Chef C.J. Jacobson, a former Top Chef contestant, forages for fresh, exotic ingredients in the Santa Monica Mountains to incorporate into an inventive California menu (e.g., hamachi with white fir and wild sorrel, whole crispy red snapper with chili-kumquat sauce). The restaurant, decorated like a giant sunflower (girasol in Spanish), is part of a Studio City dining renaissance. D (nightly); Br (Su). 11334 Moorpark St., Studio City, 818.924.2323 $$$ Map U19 HINOKI & THE BIRD Inside luxury residential tower the Century, taste Japanese and Southeast Asian flavors in such dishes as lobster rolls with green curry and Thai basil, and black cod scented with the smoke of the namesake hinoki wood. L (M-F), D (Tu-Sa). 10 W. Century Drive, Century City, 310.552.1200 $$$ Map J10 LOVE & SALT Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (think duck-egg pizza and whole roasted pig head) in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 $$$ Map L13 MAUDE Celebrity chef Curtis Stone, an Aussie with a strong classical background, helms this intimate, 25-seat Beverly Hills restaurant named after his grandmother. Every month a different seasonal ingredient is showcased and artfully presented in a nine-course menu. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 $$$$ Map J11 MILO & OLIVE The husband-and-wife team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery.

Zoe Nathan’s desserts and pastries shouldn’t be missed.

B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$ Map K9 NAPA VALLEY GRILLE Wine-country-inspired cuisine including steaks, seafood and choice of tasty sides.

Extensive wine list and a popular happy hour. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1100 Glendon Ave., Westwood, 310.824.3322 $$ Map J10 PLANT FOOD AND WINE Restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining. Indoor and outdoor seating, with a patio sheltered by olive trees and complete with a garden of fruits, herbs and edible flowers. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 $$$ Map N9

RICK POON

PUMP Enchanted-garden-themed restaurant and bar from restaurateur and Real Housewives of Beverly Hills star Lisa Vanderpump features a patio with 100-year-old olive trees and a menu created by Food Network Star finalist Penny Davidi. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 8948 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.7867 $$ Map I12 RUSTIC CANYON Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterraneaninspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners.

Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 $$$ Map L8

SPAGO An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. Glimpse some of the 30,000 wine bottles on offer in a glass-ensconced “wine wall.” L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$$ Map I11 THE TASTING KITCHEN Foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine from culinary-darling chef Casey Lane: small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9 TAVERN Chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9 TERRINE Comfortable, elevated California brasserie fare (moules frites, pizza with truffle cheese and sage) from chef Kris Morningstar, restaurateur Stephane Bombet and managing partner/wine director François Renaud.

The patio, which is dominated by a magnificent tree and dotted with sparkling lights, is as romantic as they come.

L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 8265 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.746.5130 $$$ Map I12

Chinese HOUSE OF MACAU Modern Chinese-fusion restaurant in the heart of Hollywood from entrepreneur and music mogul Manny Halley. D (Tu-Su). 1600 Vine St., L.A., 323.745.5038 $$ Map H14 MEIZHOU DONGPO Sichuan fare in ultramodern surroundings at Westfield Century City mall. L, D (daily). 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.788.0120 $$ Map J11 MR CHOW The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York and London offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M-F), D (nightly). Malibu: D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911; Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$ Map I11, K7 OCEAN SEAFOOD Vast and boisterous spot serves amazing array of traditional dishes, superfresh seafood, top-of-the-line dim sum. B, L, D (daily). 750 N. Hill St., Chinatown, 213.687.3088 $$ Map G17

Eclectic/Fusion BÄCO MERCAT Chef Josef Centeno draws international praise for his inspired creations. The bäco, a flatbread sandwich, is his signature dish. Other selections include spicy hamachi crudo. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 408 S. Main St., downtown, 213.607.7000 $$ Map I16 CASSIA Part of restaurateurs Josh Loeb and Zoe Nathan’s burgeoning dining empire, this bustling Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie finds chef Bryant Ng (Spice Table) serving dishes like jellyfish salad and escargots with lemongrass-infused butter in a 1930s art deco building. D (Tu-Su). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 $$$ Map L8 MAISON AKIRA Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with American wagyu beef, miso sea bass and chawan mushi) in Pasadena’s playhouse district. Nine-course omakase available. L (F), D (Tu-Su); Br (Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20 TROIS MEC The holy foodie trinity of Ludo Lefebvre (LudoBites) and Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook (Animal, Son

Laksa and kaya toast at Cassia

of a Gun) is behind this hot restaurant in a 24-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, fivecourse meal. New French-bar-style spinoff, Petit Trois, is next door. D (M-F). 716 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, troismec.com $$$$ Map H13

French BOUCHON The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (e.g., moules frites). L (M-F), D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16 THE LITTLE DOOR For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. At the West 3rd Street original, dine on rustic Mediterranean dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace. An additional location across from the Brentwood Country Mart is also charming, with several private rooms and intimate alcoves and a main dining room featuring a retractable roof. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su in Santa Monica only). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210; 246 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.310.8064 $$$ Map I12, K8 MÉLISSE At Mélisse, among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef/owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster bolognese with truffles before superb game dishes. D (Tu-Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8 PATINA The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classicalmusic offerings with fine dining thanks to its fine inhouse restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H16 RÉPUBLIQUE In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio, fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (think escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables. Café: B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro D (M-Sa). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$ Map I13

Italian ALIMENTO Zach Pollack, half of the talent behind acclaimed Sotto, is behind this tiny, hip space in Silver Lake, where a clever menu features addictive chicken-

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Dining liver mousse with plum mostarda, crudo and pastas.

The chef’s contrarian take on tortellini en brodo features dumplings filled with a hot broth that explodes in your mouth. Desserts include chocolate budino and almond polenta cake. D (Tu-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.928.2888 $$ Map east of W23 BESTIA Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District. The former executive chef at Angelini Osteria serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic, and a selection of house-cured meats.

D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$ Map east of J17

Something for Everyone LUNCH • DINNER • HAPPY HOUR

RESTAURANT & SALOON

BOTTEGA LOUIE This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in minimalist white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-ovencooked pizzas and share small plates of portobello fries and crab beignets. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 CECCONI’S This London-based restaurant caters to a well-heeled clientele who schmooze over bellinis and cicchetti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful agnolotti del plin and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well-executed. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12 CULINA A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and an impressive 25-foot chandelier. B (M-Sa), L (M-Sa), D (nightly); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 DRAGO CENTRO Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare—like l’anatra (duck breast, sweet-potato puree, cipollini onion, butternut squash and saba)—and extensive wine list in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16 THE FACTORY KITCHEN Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrialchic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, complemented by an inventive cocktail program, contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$ Map J17 IL FORNAIO Trattoria-style favorite. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

Pasadena: L, D (daily); Br (Su). 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 24 W. Union St., Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$ Map J11, L13, Q19

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GUSTO Victor Casanova’s intimate neighborhood ristorante has a look and feel reminiscent of his native Bronx. Dishes such as polpette (pork meatballs) plated over chilled, whipped ricotta, charred baby octopus and fresh-made pastas deserve praise. L (M-F), D (nightly). 8432 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.1778 $$$ Map I13 JON & VINNY’S Family-friendly Italian diner from chefs/owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrees. Takeout and delivery are also available. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 $$ Map B2 LA VECCHIA CUCINA Rustic Northern Italian in a laid-back bistro. More than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, ossobuco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8 LOCANDA DEL LAGO Rustic family-owned restaurant overlooking Third Street Promenade. Michelin-

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Dining starred chef Gianfranco Minuz turns out traditional Northern Italian cuisine made with sustainable proteins and locally sourced ingredients. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.3525 $$ Map L8 MADDALENA Dining among the casks at San Antonio Winery; fresh pastas, seafood, paninis and more served with European hospitality. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

737 Lamar St., L.A., 323.223.1401 $$ Map G17 MATTEO’S An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures.

Classic dishes include mussels in white wine and ossobuco Milanese. D (Tu-Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10 OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants. Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertoire of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13

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PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO The more relaxed sibling of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials.

Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101; Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 $$ Map H13 RISTORANTE AL MARE Enjoy tastes of Italy and stellar beach and pier views from the rooftop deck of this three-story restaurant. L, D (daily). 250 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 310.458.4448 $$ Map L8 SPAGHETTINI & THE DAVE KOZ LOUNGE Saxophone great Dave Koz teams with veteran restaurateurs to create a dining/jazz venue. After dinner, the likes of Bobby Caldwell, Michael Lington and surprise celebrity guests take the stage. D (M-Sa). 184 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.424.4600 $$$ Map J11 SUPERBA SNACK BAR At this stylish neighborhood pastaria, housemade noodles are lovingly prepared.

Salumi and small plates feature local produce. An interesting wine list and a selection of beer- and winebased cocktails are available. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

533 Rose Ave., Venice, 310.399.6400 $$$ Map M8 TERRONI Southern Italian cooking including excellent thin-crust pizza. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. Downtown: L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). West Hollywood: L, D (daily); Br (SaSu). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234; 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 $$ Map I16, J13 VALENTINO For more than 30 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a pre-eminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list— often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (M-Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9

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ASANEBO Hidden in a strip mall, but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro in garlic cream and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu-F), D (TuSu). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1 KATANA Robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood on skewers. Stylish rooms, patio. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12 KATSUYA Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck.

L (varies by location), D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente

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Dining A.O.C. Mediterranean-inspired pioneer of two L.A. culinary trends: the small-plates format and the wine bar. Chef/owner Suzanne Goin offers addictive baconwrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates and an excellent selection of cheeses and cured meats from a charcuterie bar. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 $$ Map I12

Balinese-style fried meatballs at Little Sister

Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 MATSUHISA Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s more modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Monkfish liver pâté with caviar, and lamb chops with miso anticucho sauce are just a couple of his creations. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12 N/NAKA Offerings are crafted in the kaiseki Japanese culinary tradition, with both classic and modern interpretations. The 13-course menus are prepared with produce from n/naka’s organic garden; there is an extensive sake and wine list as well. D (Tu-Sa). 3455 S. Overland Ave., L.A., 310.836.6252 $$$$ Map L11 NOBU The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents.

West Hollywood: D (nightly). Malibu: B (F-Su), L, D (daily). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 Q The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef/owner Hiroyuki Naruke in items like miso-marinated uni and monkfish as rich as foie gras. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 $$$$ Map I16

BOWERY BUNGALOW Restaurateur George AbouDaoud honors his Middle Eastern heritage here by applying exotic Silk Road flavors to all-American concepts like Southern baby-back ribs. The inventive menu even features Pacific influences: kebabs called “shishkatori” are grilled over binchotan charcoal like authentic Japanese yakitori. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 4156 Santa Monica Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.1500 $$ Map south of W23 CROSSROADS KITCHEN Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort classics. Try the “crab cake” or the attractive artichoke “oysters” topped with crispy oyster mushrooms. The wine list features organic and biodynamic labels. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 $$ Map H12 ESTÉREL The redesigned restaurant at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills features two new spaces—the lovely French garden, Le Jardin, which offers alfresco seating, and an indoor private-party area called the Aviary—along with an open-plan main dining room, two private dining rooms and the adjacent Riviera 31 lounge. The menu is refreshed as well, with farm-to-fork Mediterranean fare from executive chef Victor Boroda (Scarpetta). B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$$ Map I12 FIG & OLIVE New York-based restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil. Don’t miss the paella del mar and the Provence roasted chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (SaSu). 8490 Melrose Place, L.A., 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, servers in T-shirts and newsboy caps serve seasonal Cal-Med small plates and pizzas to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s most lively patio.

B (M-F), L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9

ROBATA BAR Japanese grilling from the Sushi Roku, Katana and Boa team. Striking design by Dodd Mitchell. D (nightly). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 $$$ Map L8

LUCQUES Chef/owner Suzanne Goin delivers the next generation of California cuisine, which includes dishes such as grilled club steak for two with potatoes parisienne. Nowhere do vegetables taste as good! L (TuSa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13

ROKU This new Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki (think A-5 Japanese wagyu and Santa Barbara spot prawns) prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 $$$ Map H12

PETROS Fine contemporary-Greek fare in a cool white dining room or on the covered patio. Dress code for indoor diners. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4100 $$$ Map L13

SUSHI ROKU Nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu. For foodies 10 and under, Sushi Roku Pasadena offers a fun “okosama” kids’ menu with four bento-box options. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map L8, Q19 URASAWA If you’re serious about sushi, make a date to sit at Urasawa’s bar. Here you’ll be treated to an incredible omakase dinner—don’t even ask about price—that features the freshest, most artfully presented sushi, sashimi and shabu-shabu dishes. Reservation required. D (Tu-Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11

Mexican/Latin BROKEN SPANISH The upscale sister of B.S. Taqueria (below), this “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., Ste. 102, downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I15 B.S. TAQUERIA The casual, colorful setting at this Ray Garcia-helmed spot offers the right vibe for lemonpepper chicken chicharrones or clam-and-lardo tacos. L (M-F), D (nightly). 514 W. 7th St., L.A., 213.622.3744 $$ Map H15

CORAZON Y MIEL Inspired by family recipes and the flavors of Latin America, chef Eduardo Ruiz (formerly of Animal) serves both small and shareable plates, an extensive cocktail menu and offers plenty of draft beer and wine. Dulce de Puerco (bacon, dates, whipped cotija) is a menu favorite. D (Tu-Su); Br (Su). 6626 Atlantic Ave., Bell, 323.560.1776 $$ Map C3 DÍA DE CAMPO Part of Blackhouse Hospitality (Little Sister, Abigaile, Steak & Whisky), this restaurant offers innovative Mexican dishes like chocolate-duck quesadillas, chorizo-stuffed dates and wood-grilled lobster with chili butter in a sexy surf-lodge setting. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1238 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.379.1829 $$ Map L13 GRACIAS MADRE Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Café Gratitude.

Inventive dishes like coconut ceviche tostadas or flautas de camote filled with sweet potatoes and cashew nacho cheese please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 $$ Map I12 MEXICANO Indoor-outdoor restaurant in the Baldwin Hills Crenshaw shopping center is run by James Beard Award-nominated chefs Jaime Martin Del Campo and Ramiro Arvizu, whose La Casita Mexicana restaurant in Bell is widely considered one of the best Mexican restaurants in L.A. County. Try the poblano mole, a house specialty. L, D (daily). 3650 W. Martin Luther King Blvd., L.A., 323.296.0798 $$$ Map northeast of M12 PETTY CASH TAQUERIA Mexican street food featuring local, seasonal ingredients and refined technique.

Winning dishes include pig-ear nachos with crema poblana, and guacamole with Santa Barbara sea urchin and chicharrones. Buzzy new downtown Arts District location. Beverly: L (Su), D (nightly). Downtown: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300; 712 S. Santa Fe Ave., downtown, 213.624.0210 $$ Map I13, J17 RED O Rick Bayless, one of America’s leading authorities on Mexican cuisine, is consulting chef at these sexy eateries (the Santa Monica location opened last summer). Many of his thoughtful dishes are grounded in tradition, such as classic albacore ceviche and cochinita pibil. D (nightly). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009; 1541 Ocean Ave., ste. 120, Santa Monica, 310.458.1600 $$$ Map I12, L8 TORTILLA REPUBLIC This casual-chic WeHo restaurant serves up modern Mexican cuisine made with unique ingredients and rich in flavor. Sidle up to the white onyx bar or enjoy alfresco dining on the large patio. L (Tu-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 616 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.9888 $$ Map I12

Pan-Asian CRUSTACEAN A glass-covered koi-filled stream meanders under the bar at this Cal-Vietnamese eatery, and diners indulge in items from a “secret kitchen” in which only the owners’ family members and select longtime staff members are allowed. The garlic noodles are a signature. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9646 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 $$$ Map I11 THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Crustacean (above)—celebrates her Vietnamese heritage with a cuisine that reflects authenticity while incorporating California sensibilities in a chic indoor-outdoor space.

Dishes like turmeric-crusted sea bass, lobster with handmade noodles, and Vietnamese chicken curry are enjoyed with cocktails infused with Southeast Asian flavors. L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 $$$ Map I12

COURTESY LITTLE SISTER

Mediterranean

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Dining LITTLE SISTER At these trendy spots, young chef Tin Vuong brings sophisticated accents to pan-Asian cuisine with signatures like deep-fried Balinese meatballs with banana ketchup, Myanmar okra curry and saltand-pepper lobster. Downtown location opened in October. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). Downtown: B, L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146 $$ Map L13, I16 LUKSHON Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and Far East-inspired cocktail program. The crispy whole market fish is not to be missed. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 WP24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include Singapore-style chili prawns and steamed bao filled with pork belly. Restaurant/lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent.

Dining room D (Tu-Sa). Nest D (nightly). Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

Seafood CATCH & RELEASE Chef Jason Neroni’s childhood summers in Maine inspired this casual seafood spot.

Try the lobster-stuffed Parker House roll or the bucatini with Dungeness crab, sweet corn, garlic and chili. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 13488 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey, 310.893.6100 $$ Map O9 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE David LeFevre, a Water Grill alum, loads his menu with East Coast inspirations, as well as some innovative dishes. Among the old-school small plates in this tiny, charming restaurant are New England-style clam chowder with Nueske’s bacon and Maryland blue-crab cakes with housemade pickles and remoulade. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 $$$ Map L13 GLADSTONE’S MALIBU One of SoCal’s biggest hits, with a million visitors each year. Dramatic ocean views. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.454.3474 $$ Map west of K7 THE HUNGRY CAT East Coast fare in hip little spots.

Dine on dishes such as crab cakes or chilled crab legs and you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the halfpound. Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su).

Santa Monica: D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). Sunset + Vine, 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7

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PROVIDENCE Chef/owner Michael Cimarusti transforms seafood from the world’s most pristine waters into oft-changing dishes. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine.

L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14 SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

Spanish BAR PINTXO Spanish tapas bar around the corner from the Santa Monica Pier offers authentic tortilla española, paella and croquetas de jamón and Spanish wines.

L, D (daily). 109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.2012 $$ Map M8

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Dining THE BAZAAR BY JOSé andrÉs Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to the eminently stylish SLS Hotel.

Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable 20-pluscourse prix-fixe menu. Dining room D (nightly). Saam D (Th-Sa). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16 SMOKE.OIL.SALT “Casual world cuisine” and an impressive list of Spanish wines served in a lively location on Melrose. D (nightly); Br (Su). 7274 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.930.7900 $$ Map I13

EVERYDAY IS ROSES Grab your bestie, a cocktail, and a little culture.

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Steak alexander’s steakhouse This ultra-luxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and one of L.A.’s widest selections of domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 $$$ Map Q20 The Arthur J This swanky Manhattan Beach steakhouse, helmed by chef David LeFevre (M.B. Post, Fishing With Dynamite), offers a classic menu that will delight any carnivore, but the seafood dishes and sides-with-a-twist are excellent as well. Sit in the midcentury-inspired, spacious dining room or at the bar.

D (nightly). 903 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.878.9620 $$$$ Map C2 Baltaire Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, the sophisticated Brentwood restaurant offers plenty of prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sun-or-star dining on its 2,500-square-foot terrace—perhaps best enjoyed with the Baltaire Julep cocktail in hand.

L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 $$$$ Map J12

Photographed at Magnolia House

Boa Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily).

West Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H12 Fogo de Chão Arguably the city’s best churrascaria—those Brazilian steakhouse-barbecue restaurants—is offered at this restaurant with locations in Beverly Hills and downtown. Guests are treated to an endless procession of meats carved right onto their plates. L (M-F, Su), D (nightly). 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.289.7755 $$$; 800 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.228.4300 Map J12, I16 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB At this on-the-waterfront eatery—the views are pure Malibu—starters like ahi tartare, lobster cocktail and caviar service are followed by fresh fish, whole Maine lobster or expertly prepared steaks. Sides like lobster mashed potatoes and Alaskan king crab/black-truffle gnocchi are legendary. D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 $$$$ Map west of K7 Mastro’s Steakhouse Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11 Morton’s Clubby ambiance, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. Beverly Hills, Woodland Hills: D (nightly). Downtown, Burbank: L (M-F), D (nightly). 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.1501; 6250 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.703.7272; 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; the Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I11, west of A1, I16, T20 Nick + Stef’s A modern interpretation of the classic American steakhouse, Bunker Hill institution

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Dining Nick + Stef’s recently underwent a complete overhaul to both its menu and its dining rooms, now a midcenturymodern vision in hues of coral, blue and caramel with brass touches. The menu from new executive chef Andreas Roller includes showstopping meat dishes as well as an expanded seafood menu. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glass-encased aging chamber. L (M-F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16

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PISTOLA The sister restaurant to Victor Casanova’s Gusto opened last year, giving classic Italian steakhouse fare a modern twist. Enjoy classic dishes such as shrimp scampi, dry-aged Delmonico steak and bonein veal chop in an elegant space with a sleek, 1950s New York feel. D (nightly). 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.9800 $$$ Map I13 Steak & Whisky Rustic meets modern at Steak & Whisky, which recently opened in downtown Hermosa Beach. The fifth joint from chef/partner Tin Vuong and partner Jed Sanford of Blackhouse Hospitality Management (sister restaurants Abigaile and Día de Campo are steps away), it applies a blend of cultural influences to American classics like traditional porterhouse and dry-aged beef. D (nightly). 117 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.318.5555 $$$$ Map L13 The Stinking Rose True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options including 40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank and even garlic ice cream. Premium steak options include Little Devil Petite Filet Mignon and Dracula’s Porterhouse. Pianist Gary Sherer performs Th-Sa evenings in the Gar Bar. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 STK The One Group’s renowned steakhouse has a sleek new L.A. home. Expect signature savory steaks, shellfish platters and jalapeño cheddar grits, as well as new dishes such as seared foie gras with spiced rum and crispy lobster tails. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 $$$ Map J10

Thai jitlada Thai The wait for a table is long at this top-rated restaurant in East Hollywood’s Thai Town, but the Southern Thai specialties, such as moo mae chan (grilled pork Southern-style with papaya salad and sticky rice), are authentic and exceptional. L, D (Tu-Su). 5233 1/2 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.667.9809 $$ Map W22

Restaurant & Bar: Open Daily 11:30am-10pm 9601 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, CA 90210 310-859-7600

HAPPY HOUR D A I LY 4 P M – 7 P M

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Natalee Thai Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Among entrées are Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chilies) and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily).

10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 12/2/15 10:12 AM $ Map L11, I11 Night + Market For authentic Thai food, head to either the WeHo or Silver Lake location (the latter is Night + Market Song) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. Celebrity diners include Gwyneth Paltrow and Lena Dunham. WeHo: L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). Silver Lake: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899 $$ Map I12, south of W23

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LADINING RISTORANTE AL MARE Savor fresh and authentic handmade pastas, thin crust pizzas and Italian seafood classics such as cioppino and branzino at Ristorante al Mare, a new Italian eatery from the team behind Trastevere and La Piazza at the Grove. Located on the Santa Monica Pier, the three-story restaurant features a rooftop dining deck and full bar with unparalleled views of the Pacific Ocean and Malibu coastline (a perfect spot to enjoy happy hour, 4:30-7:30 daily). The restaurant also boasts second floor balcony terraces and a private dining room, as well as firstfloor decks overlooking the bustling boardwalk and beautiful Santa Monica beaches. Find live music on the rooftop every weekend and some Fridays. L, D (daily).

250 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica 310.458.4448 • ristorantealmare.com

THE STINKING ROSE— A GARLIC RESTAURANT The Stinking Rose has been a mainstay on the dining scene since 1996. The restaurant’s latest addition is a supplemental Garlic Stake menu, which includes such premium beef specialties as the Little Devil petite filet mignon, Dracula’s Porterhouse (a carnivore’s dream of the perfectly prepared cut, with New York and filet mignon cooked separately) and a “to die for” bone-in filet mignon. The newly remodeled Gar Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy an evening of standards and pop songs performed by piano man Gary Sherer, who tickles the ivories Thursday through Saturday nights. Settle into a cozy booth or find a seat at the bar and enjoy an evening of fine food and pure entertainment. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 • thestinkingrose.com

208 RODEO Set atop the “Spanish steps” of Beverly Hills’ Via Rodeo, 208 Rodeo serves seasonal cuisine with California, pan-Asian and French flair. The restaurant’s proximity to such luxury retailers as Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Chanel makes it a celebrity hot spot as well as convenient stop for a post-shopping repast.

Share a meal in its warm and modern Hollywood Regency-style dining room, or take a seat on the romantic patio overlooking the Beverly Wilshire Hotel (setting of the film Pretty Woman). Beautifully presented and imaginatively prepared dishes include a signature 28-ounce tomahawk rib-eye steak and a 1.5-pound lobster tail, and a children’s menu, a full bar and tempting desserts such as gelato round out the offerings. B, L, D (daily).

208 Via Rodeo, Beverly Hills 310.275.2428 • 208rodeo.com

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LADINING IL FORNAIO Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include house-made pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto and rotisserie meats. Fresh pastas are made daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions.

Repeat recipient of The Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence.”

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills • 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach • 310.725.9555 1 Colorado, Pasadena • 626.683.9797 ilfornaio.com

LOCANDA DEL LAGO Locando del Lago blends organic produce from the Santa Monica Farmers Market and many other local purveyors with Italian ingredients to create dishes from Northern Italy’s Lombardy region. This family-run restaurant attracts celebrities, foodies, locals and travelers with its authentic and traditional recipes.

Dishes feature high-quality meats and pastas such as all-natural Niman ranch veal shank, Lake Superior whitefish and housemade ravioli and tortelloni. A full vegetarian menu is also available.

Enjoy the breads, desserts and gelato, made in-house daily. The warm interior and sidewalk patio overlooking the bustling Third Street Promenade, also offers a daily happy hour that features specialty cocktails and local and Italian wines. B (Su), L, D (daily).

231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica 310.451.3525 • lagosantamonica.com

MATTEO’S RESTAURANT Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining its status as the epitome of classic cool. Now in its 50th year, Matteo’s continues to offer unique seasonal fare in a homey and hip setting. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu features sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials. Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7-and-under bar menu.

Gluten-free and vegetarian options also available. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521 • matteosla.com

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RESTAURANTS City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine.

BEVERLY HILLS

CULVER CITY

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

SOUTH BAY/LONG BEACH

208 RODEO (California)..................................... 62

FATHER’S OFFICE (Brew/Pub)..................... 62

RESTAURANT ROW

ABIGAILE (American)................................................ 60

THE BAZAAR (Spanish).................................... 68

LUKSHON (Pan-Asian)........................................... 67

BOUCHON (French).............................................. 63

MEXICANO (Mexican)............................................66

CRUSTACEAN (Pan-Asian)............................... 66

NATALEE THAI (Thai).........................................69

FIG & OLIVE (Mediterranean)........................... 66 FOGO DE CHAO (Steak).................................. 68 MATSUHISA (Japanese)..................................... 66

CULINA (Italian).....................................................64 FREDS AT BARNEYS (American)................... 60

DOWNTOWN

MORTON’S (Steak).............................................. 68

IL FORNAIO (Italian)..........................................64

BÄCO MERCAT (Eclectic)...................................63

NOBU (Japanese)..................................................... 66

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak).......... 68

BESTIA (Italian)......................................................... 64

THE STINKING ROSE (Steak)...................... 69

MAUDE (California)............................................... 63

BOTTEGA LOUIE (Italian)..............................64

MORTON’S (Steak).............................................. 68 MR CHOW (Chinese)............................................ 63 NATALEE THAI (Thai)...................................... 69 SPAGHETTINI (Italian)...................................... 65 SPAGO (California)................................................. 63 URASAWA (Japanese)......................................... 66

BROKEN SPANISH (Mexican).........................66 B.S. TAQUERIA (Mexican).................................66 COMMISSARY (California)..................................63 CORAZON Y MIEL (Mexican)..........................66 DRAGO CENTRO (Italian)................................ 64 FACTORY KITCHEN (Italian)......................... 64

3RD STREET MELROSE AVENUE A.O.C. (Mediterranean).......................................... 66 CROSSROADS KITCHEN (Mediterranean).6 6 THE DISTRICT (Pan-Asian).................................66 ESTÉREL (Mediterranean)................................... 66 GRACIAS MADRE (Mexican)......................... 66 GUSTO (Italian).......................................................64 INK. (American)....................................................... 60 JOAN’S ON THIRD (American)................... 60 THE LITTLE DOOR (French).......................... 63 LUCQUES (Mediterranean)................................. 66 OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian)............................. 65

MALIBU

PIZZERIA MOZZA (Italian)............................ 65

M.B. POST (American)........................................ 60 PETROS (Mediterranean)............................................66

MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB (Steak)........... 68

SIMMZY’S (Brew/Pub)......................................... 62

MR CHOW (Chinese)............................................ 63

STEAK & WHISKY (Steak)................................... 69

NOBU MALIBU (Japanese)............................... 66

THE STRAND HOUSE (American).............. 62

KENDALL’S BRASSERIE (French)..............63

CATCH & RELEASE (Seafood)...................... 67

VALLEY ASANEBO (Japanese).......................................... 65 CLAIM JUMPER (American)........................... 60

LEDLOW (American).............................................. 60

PASADENA

MADDALENA (Italian)..........................................65 ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)... 68

GIRASOL (California)........................................... 63 JOAN’S ON THIRD (American)................... 60 KATSUYA (Japanese)........................................... 65

IL FORNAIO (Italian)..........................................64

MORTON’S (Steak).............................................. 68

OCEAN SEAFOOD (Chinese)..........................63

MAISON AKIRA (Eclectic)............................... 63

SALT CREEK GRILLE (American).................... 62

PATINA (French)........................................................63

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 66

SIMMZY’S (Brew/Pub)......................................... 62

SANTA MONICA

VENICE

NICK + STEF’S (Steak)............................................ 68

PETTY CASH TAQUERIA (Mexican)..........66 PLAN CHECK (American)................................... 60 Q (Japanese)....................................................................66 REDBIRD (American).............................................. 62 TERRONI (Italian).....................................................65 WP24 (Pan-Asian)...................................................... 67

PISTOLA (Steak).................................................... 69 PETTY CASH TAQUERIA (Mexican)........ 66

LITTLE SISTER (Pan-Asian)............................. 67

GLADSTONE’S MALIBU (Seafood).......... 67

MARINA DEL REY

MORTON’S (Steak).................................................68

SALT CREEK GRILLE (American).................... 62

LOVE & SALT (California).................................. 63

KATSUYA (Japanese)..............................................65

LITTLE SISTER (Pan-Asian)............................. 67

DÍA DE CAMPO (Mexican)....................................66 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE (Seafood).... 67 IL FORNAIO (Italian)..........................................64

FOGO DE CHAO (Steak)....................................68

BEVERLY BOULEVARD

THE ARTHUR J (Steak)........................................... 68 CLAIM JUMPER (American)........................... 60

BAR PINXTO (Spanish)...................................... 67 BOA (Steak)............................................................... 68 CASSIA (Eclectic)................................................... 63

GJELINA (Mediterranean)................................... 66 PLANT FOOD AND WINE (California)... 63 SIMMZY’S (Brew/Pub)......................................... 62 SUPERBA SNACK BAR (Italian)..................... 65

FATHER’S OFFICE (Brew/Pub).................... 62

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE

FIG RESTAURANT (California)..................... 63

THE TASTING KITCHEN (California)........ 63

ALIMENTO (Italian)................................................ 64

THE HUNGRY CAT (Seafood)........................ 67

PROVIDENCE (Seafood)................................... 67

WEST HOLLYWOOD

BIRCH (American)..................................................... 60

INDEPENDENCE (American)........................ 60

RED O (Mexican)..................................................... 66

BOA (Steak)............................................................... 68

BOWERY BUNGALOW (Mediterranean)...66

LA VECCHIA CUCINA (Italian)...................64

CECCONI’S (Italian)............................................64

THE LITTLE DOOR (French).......................... 63

CAVATINA (California)........................................ 62

SMOKE.OIL.SALT (Spanish).......................... 68

BUTCHERS & BARBERS (American)......... 60

SON OF A GUN (Seafood)............................... 67

HOUSE OF MACAU (Chinese).........................63

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 66

THE HUNGRY CAT (Seafood).......................... 67

LOCANDA DEL LAGO (Italian)..................64

THE CHURCH KEY (American).................... 60

MÉLISSE (French).................................................. 63

KATANA (Japanese).............................................. 65

TERRINE (California)............................................ 63

JITLADA THAI (Thai)...........................................69

TERRONI (Italian).................................................. 65

KATSUYA (Japanese)..............................................65

MILO & OLIVE (California)............................... 63

NIGHT + MARKET SONG (Thai).................69

O’BRIEN’S IRISH PUB (British).................. 62

PUBLIC KITCHEN + BAR (Brew/Pub)........ 62

OX & SON (American)......................................... 60

BRENTWOOD BALTAIRE (Steak)........................................................ 68

TROIS MEC (Eclectic).............................................63

KATSUYA (Japanese)........................................... 65 TAVERN (California).............................................. 63

JON & VINNY’S (Italian)..................................64

ROBATA BAR (Japanese).................................. 66 RUSTIC CANYON (California)........................ 63

WESTSIDE MATTEO’S (Italian)............................................... 65 NAPA VALLEY GRILLE California)............ 63

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 66

N/NAKA (Japanese).................................................66

PLAN CHECK (American)................................ 60

VALENTINO (Italian)........................................... 65

PLAN CHECK (American)................................ 60

RÉPUBLIQUE (French)....................................... 63

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British).............. 62

STK (Steak)......................................................................... 69

CRAFT (American)................................................. 60

ODYS + PENELOPE (American).................. 60

HINOKI & THE BIRD (California)................. 63 MEIZHOU DONGPO (Chinese)..................... 63

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ROKU (Japanese)..................................................... 66

RED O (Mexican)..................................................... 66

ANIMAL (American)............................................. 60

CENTURY CITY

PUMP (California)..................................................... 63

TORTILLA REPUBLIC (Mexican)............... 66 RISTORANTE AL MARE (Italian).............. 65

LA BREA/MID-CITY

NIGHT + MARKET (Thai)................................ 69

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DINE_W

SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Shared Plates Farro macaroni Oysters Tuna tartare Pan-seared scallops Cauliflower steak Zucchini beignets

ESTÉREL RESTAURANT Located in the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, the recently redesigned Estérel Restaurant boasts a range of dining settings in which to enjoy executive chef Victor Boroda’s seasonally driven, Mediterranean-inspired cuisine. Guests can sip an aperitif in the French garden patio, Le Jardin, or host a private cocktail party in the Aviary. Two private dining rooms are available, as well; one serves as a chef’s table, where chef Borda blends French and California cuisines in custom tasting menus. In the open-plan main dining room, high-backed booths and deep blue walls create a sophisticated atmosphere, and an exhibition kitchen with a wood-burning oven provides a show. Additionally, guests can enjoy cocktails created by Ferrari Watts, Riviera 31 Lounge Bar’s resident mixologist. B,L,D (daily), Br (Su).

Plates Seared ahi tuna Grass-fed burger Squid-ink tagliatelle Grass-fed Angus skirt steak frites Poulet rôti Lamb shank Grilled Maine lobster Ancient grain bowl

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.358.3979 esterelrestaurant.com

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Entertainment tournament of roses Through Jan. 3 Rose Parade (Jan. 1, 8 am), Rose Bowl game (Jan. 1, 1:30 pm) and postparade float viewing. Check website for detailed schedule.

Free curbside viewing of parade on first-come, first-served basis; grandstand seats $58-$95 on sharpseating.com.

Rose Bowl tickets start at $150. Fees for other events vary. Rose Parade: Green Street and Orange Grove Boulevard, Colorado and Sierra Madre boulevards, Pasadena; Rose Bowl Stadium: 1001 Rose Bowl Drive, Pasadena, 626.449.4100, tournamentofroses.com Map Q18 CHILL Jan. 1-3, 7-10 The Queen Mary’s adjacent dome is filled with 2 million pounds of ice for tubing, skating (in front of the ship) and more. Hours vary; visit queenmary.com/chill for details. $29.99-$49.99.

1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0752 Map O16 The Contenders Jan 6-20 The Hammer Museum collaborates with New York’s MoMA for this film series that screens the year’s best films, complemented by talks with filmmakers and actors. See website for screening schedule. $15. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.443.7000, hammer.ucla.edu Map J10

Contending for Greatness For the second year running, the Hammer Museum plays West Coast host to The Contenders, the Museum of Modern Art’s annual exhibition of the year’s most noteworthy films, many of which likely will go on to win top honors this awards season or are fast on their way to becoming cult classics. From Jan. 6-20, enjoy 10 nights of innovative films from the past 12 months, as well as talks with the filmmakers and stars.

Highlights this season include The Hateful Eight, followed by a Q&A with Quentin Tarantino; indie sensation Room; and the Cate Blanchett-starring Carol, pictured here, with director Todd Haynes fielding questions. Consider the series your crash course for the Academy Awards before they take place in Hollywood next month.

See listing at right.

HOLIDAY ICE RINK IN Pershing Square Through Jan. 18 Skate among the skyscrapers at this pristine ice-skating rink, which materializes every holiday season at Pershing Square, in the heart of downtown L.A. See website for hours and skate-session schedule. $9, skate rental $4. 532 S. Olive St., downtown, holidayicerinkdowntownla.com Map I16 ice at santa monica Through Jan. 18 Holiday spirit by the beach: an 8,000-square-foot outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica. M-Th 2-10 pm; F 2 pm-midnight; Sa 10 am-midnight; Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission, including skate rental, $15. 1324 5th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1199 Map L8 DINE L.A. RESTAURANT WEEK Jan. 18-31 Hundreds of fine restaurants across the county offer specially priced prix-fixe menus for lunch and dinner. New Exclusive Series will feature a tier of experiential menus from the city’s top chefs. $1 from every reservation booked online will benefit the Midnight Mission. See website for list of participating eateries. discoverlosangeles.com/dinelalos-angeles-restaurant-week photo l.a. Jan. 21-24 Annual international photography exposition features photographic art ranging from 19th-century works to contemporary and innovative photo-based art. Opening-night benefit gala Jan. 21 7-10 pm; Jan. 22-23 11 am-7 pm; Jan. 24 11 am-6 pm. See website for tickets. The Reef/L.A. Mart, 1933 Broadway, downtown, 323.965.1000, photola.com Map J15 golden state of cocktails Jan. 24-26 Trade show and festival celebrates the art of the cocktail and California’s cocktail culture in downtown’s Historic Core. Consumer events include seminars on topics like classic gin cocktails and Tiki culture, a Crown Royal dinner series and bar crawls in Hollywood and downtown. See website for full schedule. Seminars $40; bar crawls $65; dinner series $100. The Majestic Downtown, 650 S. Spring St., downtown, goldenstateofcocktails.com Map I16 l.a. art show & Los ANgeles fine art show Jan. 27-31 New for 2016, the annual L.A. Art Show is showcasing only modern and contemporary art.

More than 120 galleries feature art from 22 countries.

In West Hall B, the Fine Art Show exhibits historic and traditional contemporary art. L.A. Art Show and Fine Art Show: opening-night premiere party Jan. 27 8-11 pm; Jan. 28-30 11 am-7 pm; Jan. 31 11 am-5 pm. One-day pass $20; four-day pass $40. West Hall, Los Angeles Convention Center, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 561.822.5440 Map I15

Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Special Events.................... 74 Studio Tours........................ 77 Theater................................. 74 Studio Tapings................... 78 Music + Dance.................... 76 Museums............................ 78 Sports.................................... 76 Shopping Destinations.... 78 Attractions.......................... 76 Tours + Transport...............81

art los angeles contemporary Jan. 28-31 Contemporary art fair presents international blue-chip and emerging galleries, with a focus on L.A. galleries. A programming series features artist talks, panel discussions and film screenings. Opening-night reception Jan. 28 7-9 pm; Jan. 29-30 11 am-7 pm; Jan. 31 11 am-6 pm.

See website for schedule and tickets. Parking $10, cash only. Barker Hangar, 3021 Airport Ave., Santa Monica, 323.851.7530, artlosangelesfair.com Map L9 Riot L.A. Jan. 29-31 More than 100 comedians perform throughout the weekend at this downtown alternative-comedy festival, presented by KCRW. Also find podcasts, panels and more at venues like the Downtown Independent, the Regent and the Smell. Check website for lineup, schedule and individual tickets. Superfan pass $110; VIP pass $375. riotla.com Kurios: Cabinet of Curiosities All month “Reality is relative” at Cirque du Soleil’s mind-bending new show, which follows an ambitious inventor who defies the laws of time, space and dimension and turns the world upside down. Check website for schedule. $50$280. Dodger Stadium, 1000 Elysian Park Ave., downtown, 877.924.7783, cirquedusoleil.com Map G16

Theater If/Then Through Jan. 3 Tony winner Idina Menzel reprises her critically acclaimed role for the national tour of this musical that follows one woman’s two possible life paths. Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 BULLETS OVER BROADWAY Jan. 5-24 Written by Woody Allen, this 1920s-set musical comedy is based on Allen’s 1984 film of the same name and follows the making of a Broadway show. Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 1984 Opening Jan. 8 This new adaptation of George Orwell’s groundbreaking novel finds London’s Headlong theater company bringing the dystopian reality of Big Brother to life with a startlingly visceral experience. The staging marks the company’s U.S. debut. The Broad Stage, 1310 11th St., Santa Monica, 310.434.3200 Map L8 Thom Pain (based on nothing) Opening Jan. 8 The Office’s Rainn Wilson is the star of this acclaimed one-man play, written by Will Eno. As the tragic yet hilarious Thom, Wilson delivers a poignant monologue consisting of various ruminations on life. Audrey Skirball Kenis Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 The Bridges of Madison County Through Jan. 17 The Tony-winning Broadway rendition of Robert James Waller’s best-selling romantic novel tells the story of a married Italian woman in the Midwest who has an affair

In 2014, Los Angeles County had 681 museums—more than any other county in the country. It added another to the list last fall when the Broad opened downtown. See p. 78.

Courtesy The Weinstein Co.

Special Events

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MOMENTS THAT

inspire

Enjoy a one-of-a-kind family experience at SeaWorldÂŽ San Diego, with awe inspiring animal encounters, thrilling rides, and amazing shows.

Plus, learn about the incredible rescues and groundbreaking research that make SeaWorld a world leader in animal care.

SeaWorldSanDiego.com Š 2015 SeaWorld Parks & Entertainment, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Attractions + Museums

founded by ©Anne Frank

ife Th el

CENTER FOR THE ART OF PERFORMANCE AT UCLA Jan. 14-24 Contra-Tiempo: Agua Furiosa. Jan. 29 Kid Koala’s Nufonia Must Fall. Jan. 31 Roz Chast Can’t We Talk About Something More Pleasant? Royce Hall, UCLA, 405 Hilgard Ave., Westwood, 310.825.2101, cap.ucla.edu Map J10

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Music + Dance

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MAMMA MIA! Jan. 26-31 The smash-hit musical based on the songs of Abba comes to Hollywood for a limited one-week engagement. Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13

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with a National Geographic photographer. Tony winner for original score and orchestrations Jason Robert Brown conducts the L.A. presentation. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

WALLIS ANNENBERG CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS Jan. 8 David Finckel & Wu Han. Jan. 16 Santa Cecilia Orchestra. Jan. 22 Justin Kauflin. Jan. 23 Wu Man & the Shanghai Quartet. Jan. 24 Suzanne Farrell Master Class. Jan. 25-28 Christine Ebersole: Big Noise From Winnetka. Jan. 29-30 L.A. Dance Project. 9390 N. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.746.4000 Map I11 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Jan. 8-10 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Daniel Harding, pianist Emanuel Ax. Jan. 10 The Orange County Youth Symphony Orchestra, conductor Daniel Alfred Wachs, Young Musicians Foundation Debut Orchestra, conductor Yuga Cohler. Jan. 12 Violinist Itzhak Perlman, pianist Emanuel Ax. Jan. 14-17 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor/violinist Itzhak Perlman. Jan. 19 L.A. Phil New Music Group, conductor Lukasz Borowicz, clarinetist Burt Hara, soprano Agata Zubel. Jan. 20 Europa Galante, violinist Fabio Biondi. Jan. 22-24 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Jesús López-Cobos, pianist Garrick Ohlsson. Jan. 23, 30 Toyota Symphonies for Youth: City of Light: Debussy’s La Mer, featuring L.A. Philharmonic.

Jan. 24 Organist Paul Jacobs, soprano Christine Brewer.

Jan. 26 Chamber Music, featuring hornist Andrew Bain, violinist Dale Hikawa Silverman, pianist Hsin-I Huang and more. Jan. 29-31 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Esa-Pekka Salonen, pianist Yefim Bronfman. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

one of the many powerful exhibits at the

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506

THE WILTERN Jan. 8-9 Patti Smith and Her Band Perform Horses. Jan. 16 Heads Down Eyes Up presents Chase Rice’s JD and Jesus Tour. Jan. 29 The Bluegrass Situation presents the Devil Makes Three. Jan. 30 STS9. 3790 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.388.1400 Map B2

Sports STAPLES CENTER Jan. 1 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Philadelphia. Jan. 2 Los Angeles Kings vs. Philadelphia; Los Angeles Clippers vs. Philadelphia. Jan. 3 Lakers vs.

Phoenix. Jan. 5 Lakers vs. Golden State. Jan. 7 Kings vs.

Toronto. Jan. 8 Lakers vs. Oklahoma City. Jan. 9 Clippers vs. Charlotte; Kings vs. St. Louis. Jan. 10 Clippers vs. New Orleans; Lakers vs. Utah. Jan. 11 Kings vs. Detroit. Jan. 12 Lakers vs. New Orleans. Jan. 13 Clippers vs. Miami. Jan. 16 Kings vs. Ottawa; Clippers vs. Sacramento. Jan. 17 Lakers vs. Houston. Jan. 18 Clippers vs. Houston. Jan. 19 Kings vs. Dallas. Jan. 20 Lakers vs. Sacramento. Jan. 21 Kings vs.

Minnesota. Jan. 22 Lakers vs. San Antonio. Jan. 26 Lakers vs. Dallas. Jan. 27 Kings vs. Colorado. Jan. 28 Lakers vs.

Chicago. Jan. 29 Clippers vs. Lakers. Jan. 31 Clippers vs.

Chicago; Lakers vs. Charlotte. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

Attractions AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and meet penguins, sea otters, sea lions and 11,000 other animals. Daily 9 am-6 pm except Christmas and April 15-17. $17.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16

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Attractions + Museums FARMERS MARKET Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. M-F 9 am-9 pm; Sa 9 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-7 pm.

6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction overlooking Hollywood. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 L.A. LIVE Bustling entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Microsoft Theater and Club Nokia; restaurants including Nest at WP24 and Tom’s Urban; high-tech bowling lanes; and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15

K e n V e e d e r /© C a p i t o l P h o t o A rch ive s

L.A. ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 1,100 animals, many of them endangered. Daily 10 am-5 pm except Christmas. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $15-$20, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 QUEEN MARY SHIP AND SEAPORT Historic ocean liner—bigger than the Titanic!—permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, hotel, art deco lounge and restaurants including Sir Winston’s. Daily 10 am-6 pm for self-guided and guided tours. Night tours available. Check queenmary.com for pricing. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16

OCTOBER 21, 2015 THROUGH FEBRUARY 15, 2016 WWW.GRAMMYMUSEUM.ORG

RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Air Force One Pavilion houses the flying White House. Daily 10 am-5 pm except New Year’s Day, Thanksgiving and Christmas. $6-$16, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including killer whales, fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $83-$89, under 3 free. Parking $16-$21. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 800.25.

SHAMU Map I8 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. Rides include Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem and the Simpsons Ride and its immersive environment, Springfield. Tram studio tour includes King Kong 360 3-D, film and TV sets and the new Fast & Furious—Supercharged hydraulic motion-based thrill ride. Call or check universalstudioshollywood.com for hours and current prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

Studio Tours PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour group tour of Hollywood’s longest-operating and only remaining major studio. Reservation recommended.

Tours daily (except some holidays) every half-hour 9:30 am-2 pm. $55; VIP tour $178, under 10 not admitted. After Dark Tour Th-Sa 7:30 pm; $78, under 12 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14 SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion-picture studio includes stages where television shows and movies including Spider-Man were filmed. Reservation, photo ID required. M-F 9:30 am-2:30 pm. $40, under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11

Explore 113 lush acres with more than 1,100 animals, a kids’ play park, Safari Shuttle and gorgeous carousel. All conveniently located in Griffith Park, where the I-5 and 134 FWYs meet. Plan your adventure today at LAZoo.org/WhereLA.

Open daily, 10 a.m.– 5 p.m. Closed December 25.

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes private tour of movie studio, prop warehouse, front-of-line privileges, gourmet lunch and other perks. Call or check universalstudioshollywood. com for hours and current prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20

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Shopping

L.A. Dance Project’s Charlie Hodges and Morgan Lugo in Hearts and Arrows. p. 76

WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR HOLLYWOOD Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, soundstages, costume department and museum, plus observation of filming (when possible). Stage 48: Script to Screen soundstage gives guests behind-the-scenes access to the world of film and TV production. Deluxe tour available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. Daily except Christmas 8 am-4 pm. $62, under 8 not admitted. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.972.8687 Map U20

Studio Tapings AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows produced in the L.A. area, such as The Big Bang Theory, Girl Meets World and 2 Broke Girls. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including So You Think You Can Dance, The Price Is Right and American Idol. Minimum age varies by show. 818.295.2700, mytvtickets.com

Museums THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Cultural venue dedicated solely to digital and print photography. Multimedia studio and retail gallery Skylight Studios is across the park from the photography space.

W-Su 11 am-6 pm. Free. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa-Su. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000 Map J11 AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum in Griffith Park explores the art, history and cultures of the American West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native American materials. Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $4-$10, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD This new art museum built by Eli and Edythe Broad contains nearly 2,000 works of contemporary art. The inaugural installation features Yayoi Kusama’s Infinity Mirrored Room (separate free timed tickets are required). Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free. Advance online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Exhibits for budding scientists. Continuing Earth in Concert: Protecting the Planet Through Music. Ongoing Journey to Space: The Exhibition; Mission 26: The Big Endeavour. Daily 10 am-5 pm.

Permanent gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Parking $10. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15

GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Roman and Greek antiquities.

Continuing Greece’s Enchanting Landscape: Watercolors

by Edward Dodwell and Simone Pomardi. Ongoing Molten Color: Glassmaking in Antiquity. W-M 10 am-5 pm. Closed on New Year’s Day. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 5 pm for evening programs. Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Award history. Through Jan. 10 All Eyez on Me: The Writings of Tupac Shakur. Continuing George Carlin: A Place for My Stuff; Legends of Motown: Celebrating the Supremes; Rare Guitars; Ravi Shankar: A Life In Music; Sinatra: An American Icon. (See grammymuseum.org for permanent exhibits.) M-F 10:30 am-6:30 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-6:30 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HAMMER MUSEUM Traveling shows and installations and permanent collection. Through Jan. 10 Hammer Projects: Njideka Akunyili Crosby. Through Jan. 17 Hammer Projects: Avery Singer. Through Jan. 24 The Idea of North: The Paintings of Lawren Harris; UH-OH: Frances Stark 1991-2015; Hammer Contemporary Collection: Jessica Jackson Hutchins.

Opening Jan. 30 Hammer Contemporary Collection: David Lamelas; Catherine Opie: Portraits. Continuing Hammer Projects: Kenny Scharf. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm.

Closed on New Year’s Day. Free. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood, 310.443.7000 Map J10 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM Located in the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. Don’t miss Max Factor’s makeup rooms, where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Lucille Ball a redhead, and Hannibal Lecter’s jail cell from Silence of the Lambs. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens. Gallery includes Pinkie and The Blue Boy. New education and visitor center. Through Jan. 6 American Made: Selections from the Huntington’s Early American Art Collections.

Opening Jan. 23 The Artist’s Garden: American Impressionism and the Garden Movement, 1887–1920. Continuing Y.C. Hong: Advocate for Chinese-American Inclusion; A World of Strangers: Crowds in American Art; Alex Israel at the Huntington. M, W-Su 10:30 am-4:30 pm. $10-$25, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering Ice Age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART Diverse, superb collections housed on 20-acre campus. Through Jan. 3 Noah Purifoy: Junk Dada; Islamic Art Now: Contem-

porary Art of the Middle East. Through Jan. 10 AKTION! Art and Revolution in Germany, 1918-19. Through Jan. 18 New Objectivity: Modern German Art in the Weimar Republic, 1919–1933. Opening Jan. 24 Islamic Art Now, Part 2. Continuing Rain Room; Frank Gehry. (See lacma.org for additional continuing and ongoing exhibits, programs and special events.) M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $10-$15, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Premier contemporary-art museum housed in three facilities.

Through Jan. 3 Magdalena Fernández (PDC). Through Jan. 18 Matthew Barney: River of Fundament (GC). Opening Jan. 23 Catherine Opie: 700 Nimes Road (PDC). Continuing The Art of Our Time (GA); Storefront: Noah Davis: Imitation of Wealth (GA). GA and GC: M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. PDC: Tu-F 11 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-6 pm. $6-$12, under 12 free, Th 5-8 pm free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, human-rights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. (See museumoftolerance.com for additional exhibits.)

Su-W, F 10 am-5 pm; Th 10 am-9:30 pm (extended hours for Anne only). Closed on New Year’s Day. $11.50-$15.50, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY 33 million objects from dinosaur fossils to fish. Through Jan. 18 Mummies: New Secrets From the Tombs. (See nhm.org for additional exhibits.) Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. Closed on New Year’s Day. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Newly renovated museum houses some 150 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles and features permanent and rotating exhibits on display. Additions include 25 new galleries, Forza Motorsports Racing Experience and Disney/Pixar Cars Mechanical Institute. Daily 10 am-6 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13

Shopping Destinations THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley. Some 90 stores and dining options. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23 BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall near West Hollywood has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Fendi, Gucci) and restaurants including Obica Mozzarella Bar. Anchors include Macy’s, Macy’s Men’s Store and Bloomingdale’s. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CAMARILLO PREMIUM OUTLETS Luxury outlet center just north of L.A. County. 740 E. Ventura Blvd., Camarillo, 805.445.8520 Map northwest of A1 CITADEL OUTLETS Outlet center south of downtown offers discounted duds from Kate Spade, H&M and more. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 FIGAT7TH Center features hip eateries such as the Melt and City Tavern, plus shops including City Target, Zara and H&M. 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.955.7150 Map H16 THE GROVE Popular outdoor center has some 40 shops including Apple and Nordstrom, plus restaurants including new Blue Ribbon Sushi Bar & Grill, all in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown.

LAURENT PHILIPPE

GETTY CENTER Facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Through Jan. 3 Eat, Drink, and Be Merry: Food in the Middle Ages and Renaissance; Louis Style: French Frames, 1610-1792. Through Jan. 10 Art of the Fold: Drawings of Drapery and Costume. Opening Jan. 26 Traversing the Globe Through Illuminated Manuscripts. Continuing In Focus: Daguerreotypes; The Edible Monument: The Art of Food for Festivals; The Younger Generation: Contemporary Japanese Photography; Ishiuchi Miyako: Postwar Shadows; Woven Gold: Tapestries of Louis XIV. Ongoing The Life of Art: Context, Collecting, and Display. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Closed on New Year’s Day. Free. Parking $15, $10 Sa after 4 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9

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Shopping Adjacent to Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13

PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY & MUSEUM Climb onboard Air Force One and Marine One. Explore the Oval Office.

Touch an authentic piece of the Berlin Wall. And so much more!

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HOLLYWOOD & HIGHLAND Home of the Academy Awards’ Dolby Theatre. Tinseltown-themed retail, dining and entertainment center features restaurants, a cinema, high-tech bowling lanes, stores such as Louis Vuitton and Lucky Brand Jeans, a 28,000-square-foot Sweet! candy store and Ohm nightclub. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.6412 Map H13 MALIBU COUNTRY MART Outdoor center with upscale boutiques such as new Bed Stu and Wildfox, plus Cie Sparks salon, restaurants and other amenities and services. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7 ONE COLORADO Quaint outdoor plaza with upscale boutiques such as Cop.Copine and Sugarfina, plus iPic Theaters and restaurants including Sushi Roku. 41 Hugus Alley, Old Pasadena, 626.564.1066 Map Q19 ONTARIO MILLS OUTLETS California’s largest outlet shopping destination. Thirty-screen cineplex. 1 Mills Circle, Ontario, 909.484.8300 Map east of B6

“Engrossing . . . a great success.”

—THE ECONOMIST

Through

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EXHIBITION SPONSORED IN PART BY

SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at one end of Third Street Promenade. Anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, plus a rooftop dining deck. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center boasts nearly 300 boutiques, 30 restaurants and several spas. Stores include new Balenciaga, Bally, Ralph Lauren and Samsonite Black Label. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6

January 3, 2016

Susan and Carl W. Robertson Lora A. and Robert U. Sandroni

THE POINT New outdoor shopping center features trendy retailers including Planet Blue, Prana and Madewell; top L.A. eateries such as Mendocino Farms and Superba Food + Bread; and fitness destination SoulCycle. 1850 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.414.5280, thepointsb.com Map L13

SUNSET PLAZA Upscale row of boutiques and sidewalk cafés is L.A.’s Euro hang. Calypso, Calleen Cordero and H. Lorenzo stores; Ole Henriksen spa and Eden by Eden Sassoon salon. 8600-8700 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.2622 Map H12 MEDIA SPONSOR

4700 Western Heritage Way . Los Angeles, CA 90027—1462 323.667.2000 . TheAutry.org Across from the L.A. Zoo . Free Parking

THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes Zara, Cotton On, Converse, Anthropologie, kiosks and a wide array of street performers. 1351 3rd Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8 TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features high-end boutiques including Jimmy Choo, Vilebrequin and Tiffany & Co., plus fine-art gallery Galerie Michael and restaurants such as 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 THE VILLAGE AT WESTFIELD TOPANGA Openair lifestyle destination directly across the street from Westfield Topanga shopping center (with trolley service connecting the two) offers trendy shops, restaurants with alfresco dining, a weekly farmers market and much more. 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.594.8732 Map north of A1 WESTFIELD AT LAX Travelers flying out of LAX can enjoy some of L.A.’s top retail and dining, curated by Westfield, in the Tom Bradley International Terminal, as well as in terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. Shopping and dining options include Fred Segal, La Brea Bakery, MAC Cosmetics, Porsche Design, Rock & Brews, SeaLegs Wine Bar, Spanx, Tumi and Wolfgang Puck. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldatlax.com Map O10 WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY Open-air mall in the midst of an $800 million-plus revitalization has

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“The Official Museum of Hollywood” -Hollywood’s Honorary Mayor, Johnny Grant

IN THE HISTORIC MAX FACTOR BUILDING

Tours +Transport more than 175 stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Tiffany & Co. Luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen, food-court atrium and terrace; restaurants include Obica Mozzarella Bar and Toscanova. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898 Map J11

Tours + Transport A LIST LIMOUSINE A List Limo offers an all-new fleet of luxury cars, including Lincoln MKTs and Mercedes S550s, complete with state-of-the-art technology and professionally trained chauffeurs. Private custom city tours with multiple language options are also available. 310.568.1590, alistlimo.com AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations.

Nationwide connections, multiple-day rail passes.

Stations in Burbank, downtown (Union Station), Long Beach, Pasadena and Van Nuys. The Coast Starlight connects L.A. to Ventura, Santa Barbara, the Bay Area, Portland and Seattle. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended. Call for hours and pricing. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com

The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up.

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DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium. 1000 Elysian Park Ave., downtown, 866.363.4377 Map G17

13604 Ventura Blvd. Sherman Oaks

818.990.6128

AbundancePlusSizes.com Milton Greene Photograph, 1953 © 2013 The Hollywood Museum

SEE 10,000 AUTHENTIC SHOWBIZ TREASURES SHOWCASING 100 YEARS OF HOLLYWOOD!

The most extensive collection of costumes, props, posters, and photographs in the world!

SPECIAL EXHIBITS Max Factor: Hollywood Glamour Make Up Magic Marilyn: The Exhibit 100 Years of Hollywood

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“#1 Hollywood Tourist Attraction” –LA Weekly “One of LA’s Top 10 Museums” –LA Tourism and Convention Board “Certificate of Excellence” –Trip Advisor 1660 North Highland Avenue at Hollywood Boulevard Hollywood, California 90028 323.464.7776 www.TheHollywoodMuseum.com

HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance, relax and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from dinner and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 888.467.6256, hornblower.com Map O9 METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to Pasadena and East L.A.; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Culver City to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net METROLINK Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com STARLINE TOURS Hollywood’s largest celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tour plus tours to movie locations, beaches, theme parks, San Diego and more. The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour has more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13 TMZ CELEBRITY TOUR, HOLLYWOOD Bus tour with state-of-the-art audio-video system explores celebrity haunts and sites of famous scandals. TMZ guides are at the ready to interview celebrities and send footage back to the newsroom. $49-$59. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 855.486.9868, tmztour.com Map H13

where?

Log on anywhere.

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GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s third-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and six rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes.

Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at metro.net or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries.

Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.

Fares

Metro’s base fare is $1.75. It’s best to pay using a TAP card, a reloadable plastic card that can store Metro passes or individual rides. TAP cards cost $1 and are available from self-service vending machines at Metro Rail stations, or onboard buses with the purchase of a 1-Day Pass. For complete information, check metro.net/fares.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center/Grand Park • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall • Grand Park 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) • FIGat7th (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • TCL Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) Universal City/Studio City • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood

Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult. Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train.

North Hollywood • El Portal Theatre • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)

Hours

METRO BLUE LINE

Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at metro.net regarding your return trip.

Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street/Watts Tower • Watts Towers Downtown Long Beach • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary

METRO GOLD LINE

Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum • The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake • Pasadena Playhouse

METRO EXPO LINE

Expo Park/USC • California Science Center • Natural History Museum SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 87

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angeles

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20

27

29 A palace’s worth of luxe contemporary furnishings at RH Modern on Melrose Avenue.

424.281.1326

Ragnar Kjartansson’s immersive The Visitors at The Broad downtown. p. 78

Devon’s Star Wars limitededition watch, available at Westime Sunset. 310.289.0808

Essential knits and totes by 321 at American Rag Cie on La Brea Avenue. 323.935.3154

Elegant, eco-friendly mani-pedis at Côte in Brentwood. 310.820.0906

Celebrating L.A. Arts Month at the L.A. Art Show. p. 14

The pork carnitas at Sausal in El Segundo. p. 55

Sexy Helmut Lang Cuiron perfume. 310.623.1900

Brisket and mac and cheese at Maple Block Meat Co. in Culver City. p. 23

Beautiful leather boots from new Bed Stu in the Malibu Country Mart. 310.456.3032 The truffle ricotta gnudi at Superba Food + Bread at the Point in El Segundo.

310.906.4598

The on-trend fringe clutch at Madewell, new to the Point in El Segundo. 310.322.2791

The Valrhona Chocolate Crunch doughnut at Blue Star Donuts in Venice. 310.450.5630

Rejuvenating massages at new The Now, on Beverly Boulevard. 323.746.5525

Sipping sangria at Chavela in Hollywood. 323.871.8099

Sparkly jewelry by L.A.-based Carbon + Hyde, available at Theory on Melrose Avenue. 323.782.0163

The iced-tea and lemonade cart at The Church Key in West Hollywood. p. 60

Tony Award winner Idina Menzel in If/Then at Hollywood’s Pantages Theatre. p. 74

L.A.-based Amo jeans, available at Jill Roberts in Santa Monica. 310.260.1966

Artful desserts at Otium, which just opened next to the Broad downtown. 213.935.8500

Celeb-beloved spectacles and sunnies at Cutler and Gross in West Hollywood.

424.777.0496

Happy hour in the dreamy courtyard at Plant Food + Wine in Venice. p. 19

Malin + Goetz’s fizzy detox face mask, available at its new Montana Avenue apothecary.

424.268.8958

where in the world

Where is an inter­national network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Circa 55’s Beverly Hilton TV Dinner. 310.887.6055 Hedley & Bennett chefapproved, handmade aprons, available at the brand’s factory store in Vernon. 213.744.1355 Feasting on Korean barbecue with friends at Hanjip. p. 12 Fire-juggling teppanyaki chefs at new Roku on the Sunset Strip. p. 66 Comfy Yogasmoga workout/hangout wear. p. 11 Extravagant 111Skin Celestial Black Diamond serum, available at Barneys New York in Beverly Hills. 310.276.4400

Finding decorating inspiration at L.A.’s first Serena & Lily design shop. 323.852.3191

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Tampa, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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