WHERE Los Angeles January 2015

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JANUARY 2015 WHERELA.COM

Los Angeles

®

WHAT’S NEW

Shops, theater and more

SHOW OFFS

Art fairs come to town

REFINED DINING

Whitetablecloth restaurants

let’s do

BRUNCH Rise, shine and dine at 14 local restaurants that do brunch right

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©2014 Universal Studios. AllAll Rights Reserved. 14-ADV-15371 ©2014 Universal Studios. Rights Reserved. 14-ADV-15371

©2014 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 14-ADV-15371 ©2014 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 14-ADV-15371

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L os An g e l e s ’ Be s t - K e p t S e c re t

GALERIE W H E R E

T H E

MICHAEL

M A S T E R S

R E S I D E

On Rodeo Drive For Thirty Years 224 North Rodeo Drive | 2 Rodeo Drive Building | Beverly Hills, CA 90210 310.273.3377 | art@galeriemichael.com | /galeriemichael.com Monday to Saturday 10 am - 7 pm | Sunday 11 am - 5 pm OLD MASTERS | MODERN MASTERS | 19th CENTURY PAINTING | CONTEMPORARY

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BURBERRY DOLCE & GABBANA FENDI GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI GUCCI HUGO BOSS JIMMY CHOO LOUIS VUITTON MONTBLANC OMEGA PRADA SAINT LAURENT SALVATORE FERRAGAMO TIFFANY & CO. VERSACE COLLECTION Z ZEGNA

BLOOMINGDALE’S

. MACY’S . THE CAPITAL GRILLE

BEVERLY BOULEVARD & LA CIENEGA

. LOS ANGELES CA

BEVERLYCENTER.COM

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where los angeles

01.15

CONTENTS

THE DINING ISSUE

departments Editor’s Note

66 DINING Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

Resolve to fill 2015 with fun and great food.

10 Hot Dates

81 ENTERTAINMENT Special events, performing arts and sports

Must-see art fairs and exhibits, intimate plays, winter wonderlands, sporting events and more

82 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Theme parks, activities, studio tapings, exhibitions and more

96 30 Things We Love Chic fashion, tasty morsels, old-school drinks and other little indulgences kick off the year with style.

87 SHOPPING The county’s major retail destinations

where now

88 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around and getting to know Los Angeles

13 Dining The Springs is your source for healthy cuisine downtown. Meanwhile, Odys + Penelope heats up Mid-City with live-fire cooking, and nearby, Jet Tila’s Stir Market brings the modern food hall concept to Beverly Boulevard.

CITY TOURS

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16 Shopping and Beauty The new Burberry flagship brings a dash of Brit style to Rodeo Drive, and L.A. skin-care brand Murad debuts a retail flagship on West 3rd Street.

A dessert from Jar, a top specialoccasion destination

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

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ON THE COVER 12 quail eggs sunnyside up at Tres by José Andrés at the SLS Beverly Hills. Photo by Jill Paider

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18 Let’s Do Brunch How do Angelenos spell weekend? B-R-U-N-C-H. Herewith, the best local spots to satisfy your savory and sweet cravings.

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BY ROGER GRODY

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When the occasion calls for an elegant atmosphere and extraordinary cuisine, Los Angeles’ top fine-dining restaurants pull out all the stops. BY ROGER GRODY

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Get the up-to-the-minute buzz from our Southern California Where editors online and on your smartphone.

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the guide

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OYSTER PERPETUAL DATEJUST L ADY 31

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where M AG A Z INE

CITADEL OUTLETS

LA’S CHOICE FOR OUTLET SHOPPING Find out what’s behind the wall at Citadel Outlets and save 30-70% off full retail from over 130 of your favorite brand name stores.

PUBLISHER EDITOR

Jeff Levy

Suzanne Ennis

ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano

MARKETING DIRECTOR EDITOR IN CHIEF

Audrey Nimura

Benjamin Epstein

CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Heidi Schwindt CONTRIBUTING PRODUCTION ARTIST

Diana Gonzalez

ASSOCIATE EDITOR Gillian Glover CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Roger Grody,

Katie McCarthy

CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Dale Berman, Brown Cannon III, Sarah Hadley, Matt Hartman, Joseph Llanes, Monica Nouwens, Lisa Romerein, Edwin Santiago, Ashok Sinha, Ian White SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGER

Jessica Levin Poff

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Kerry Brewer, Heather Heintz, Julie Hoffman, Joanna McLean Stickel, Heather Price CIRCULATION / SPECIAL EVENTS MANAGER

Beth Moline

PRODUCTION MANAGER Dawn Kiko Cheng WEB EDITOR Christina Xenos ADMINISTRATION

Lisa Hillebrecht, Amina Karwa, Leanne Killian, Stephanie Reid VICE PRESIDENT OF NATIONAL SALES Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 WEST COAST NATIONAL SALES Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 DIRECTOR OF NATIONAL DIGITAL SALES Bridget Cody 706.821.6663 HONORARY PRESIDENT BEHIND THE WALL. BEYOND EXPECTATIONS.

c i t a d e l o u t l e t s .c o m

CITADEL OUTLETS IS JUST MINUTES FROM DOWNTOWN LA ON I-5 AT THE ATLANTIC EXIT. CONTACT YOUR HOTEL’S FRONT DESK OR CONCIERGE FOR SHUTTLE AND TRANSPORTATION OPTIONS TO THE CENTER.

Ted Levy

where Los Angeles

3679 Motor Ave., Suite 300 Los Angeles, California 90034 Phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 EMAIL Editorial Suzanne.Ennis@WhereLA.com Art Art@WhereLA.com Production Ads@WhereLA.com Website Christina.Xenos@WhereLA.com Circulation Beth.Moline@WhereLA.com Plan for your next visit to Los Angeles. Subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36. Contact: Beth Moline. Phone: 310.280.2880 Email: Beth.Moline@WhereLA.com © 2015 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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where Los Angeles magazine is pleased to be a member of: Greater Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau, Santa Monica Area Chamber of Commerce, California Restaurant Association, CalTIA, Beverly Hills Chamber of Commerce, Los Angeles Concierge Association.

On the Web: WhereLA.com A MAGGIE AWARD-WINNING PUBLICATION BEST CONSUMER VISITOR’S GUIDE

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Welcome

A note from the editor

FRESH STARTS

Happy New Year! How’s that resolution coming along? I did a little Googling and learned that about half of all Americans made New Year’s resolutions last year. The good news: 75 percent of us kept our resolutions for a whole week. The bad news: Only 8 percent of us ultimately succeeded in our goal. No. 1 on the popularity list? “Lose weight.” Sounds like you’re in great company if you’ve already cheated on your diet. I’m not really one to make resolutions that involve food restriction, mostly because nothing makes me want to eat something more than being told I shouldn’t. So, while I’m a believer in exercise and moderation, I have made no promises to cut back on carbs or butter in 2015. And thank goodness, because have you seen the cover of this magazine? This is our annual food issue, and the centerpiece is a feature devoted to my favorite food group: brunch! From gourmet vegan fare to decadent, all-you-can-eat buffets, Los Angeles’ brunch offerings are as varied as they are plentiful, and writer Roger Grody rounds up some of the best bets (p. 18). I’ve already made my reservation at the Four Seasons Los Angeles at Beverly Hills (Hellooo, freshly made doughnuts and custom bloody marys). Now, I’m all for sleeping in late and rolling into brunch around noon, but maybe you want to work up an appetite first or get an early start so you can spend the day exploring. We’ve put together plenty of ideas for what to see and do around town. January is Los Angeles Arts Month, and where better to celebrate than at the L.A. Art Fair and Photo L.A. downtown, or Art Los Angeles Contemporary in Santa Monica (p. 10)? Or

From gourmet vegan fare to decadent, all-you-caneat buffets, Los Angeles’ brunch offerings are as varied as they are plentiful.

perhaps you prefer to work off your calories shopping: Check out two new stores that will have you looking terrific head to toe (p. 16). By the time evening rolls around, you’re sure to be hungry again—and we have some great new casual options (p. 13) as well as As for that diet, perhaps it’s not too late to simply reframe your goals. I just looked again at that list of the most common New Year’s resolutions, and “Enjoy life to the fullest” was No. 4. Now that’s a resolution worth sticking to. —SUZANNE ENNIS

MAIZ CONNOLLY

tried-and-true fine-dining destinations (p. 22) for your consideration.

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NOW OPEN! GENERAL HOURS OF OPERATION Mon-Thur 2pm – 10pm | Friday 2pm – Midnight Saturday 11am – Midnight | Sunday 11am – 10pm

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WHERE CALENDAR JANUARY 2015 Search the full calendar at wherela.com

HOT

WHAT’S HAPPENING IN L.A.’S ARTS & CULTURE SCENE

JAN. 7-25 AN ODD COUPLE The son of the Some Like It Hot star pays tribute to his dad in his one-man show, Jack Lemmon Returns, at the Broad Stage. p. 81

DATES

JAN. 16-18 FREEZE FRAME Browse photography new and old at art fair Photo L.A. at the Reef in the L.A. Mart. p. 81 THROUGH JAN. 18 HAPPY MEDIUM Dame Angela Lansbury takes the stage as a medium in Blithe Spirit, at the Ahmanson. p. 81

JAN. 15-18 AN ARTFUL OUTING The L.A. Art Show is celebrating its 20th anniversary. Head to the L.A. Convention Center to find groundbreaking special exhibits and diverse art by established and emerging artists, including Zeinab Al Hashemi, whose work Pearl Tale is seen here. Then shop for one-of-a-kind gems, jewelry, tribal art, textiles and more next door at the Los Angeles Jewelry, Antique & Design Show. p. 81

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WAYS TO START THE NEW YEAR

1 TOURNAMENT OF ROSES > JAN. 1-3 Jubilant throngs pack Pasadena to attend the world-famous Rose Parade and football game at Rose Bowl Stadium. View the floats up close after the parade. p. 81

HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Go to WhereLA.com for the Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performingarts events, dining promotions and more.

2 THE CONTENDERS > JAN. 5-8, 13 In collaboration with New York’s MoMA, the Hammer Museum hosts a series of screenings of the year’s best films, along with Q+As with the filmmakers and actors. p. 81 3 KINGS VS. ANAHEIM > JAN. 17 L.A.’s team goes against the Ducks in this Freeway Face-Off game between the two SoCal hockey rivals at Staples Center, downtown. p. 82

4 ICE AT SANTA MONICA > THROUGH JAN. 19 Don’t miss your chance to enjoy a simulated snowy winter and ice skate outdoors—by the beach, no less—in downtown Santa Monica. Lessons and skate rentals are available, and operating hours run late into the evening. p. 81 5 SNOW DAYS AT THE L.A. ZOO > JAN. 24-25 A blizzard hits the L.A. Zoo and Botanical Gardens, allowing Cali kids and animals alike to frolic in the snow and explore a winter wonderland. p. 84 6 GOLDEN STATE OF COCKTAILS > JAN. 26-29 Booze enthusiasts will love the trade show and festival celebrating all things mixology at the Los Angeles Athletic Club. Industry seminars are mixed with consumer events such as a dinner series and bar crawls. (A tipple from Villain’s Tavern is pictured left.) p. 81

JAN. 22-24 TICKLE THE IVORIES Hear a beloved pianist perform during Emanuel Ax Plays Chopin at Walt Disney Concert Hall. p. 82 JAN. 30-FEB. 1 MODERN MUSINGS Both well-known and emerging galleries show work at Art Los Angeles Contemporary, at the Barker Hangar. p. 81 CONTINUING SILVER LININGS Imagine being the farmer who unearthed the cameo below, now on display in Ancient Luxury and the Roman Silver Treasure From Berthouville, at the Getty Villa. p. 86

ZEINAB AL HASHEMI, PEARL TALE (2010), COURTESY THE ARTIST; CAMEO OF EMPEROR TRAJAN (100), COURTESY BIBLIOTHÈQUE NATIONALE DE FRANCE, DÉPARTEMENT DES MONNAIES, MÉDAILLES ET ANTIQUES, PARIS/GETTY

Top Stops

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Welcome to Burbank You are invited to mingle where stars relax between takes, and where movie history is made. Check out the industrial-chic Coffee Commissary, charmingly decadent Simplethings restaurant, modern and minimalist Gindi Thai, the newly expanded gourmet Olive & Thyme, and trendy cafeteria style eatery Lemonade. Clockwise from top: Coffee Commissary, Simplethings (coming soon), Gindi Thai, Olive & Thyme, Lemonade

TREND SPOTTER MOVIE LOVER FOOD CONNOISSEUR To find out more call 818-238-5180 or visit us online at www.visitburbank.com

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los angeles

THE BEST IN DINING,

SHOPPING AND BEAUTY

DINING

Market Watch

JESUS BANUELOS

Upscale food halls are shaping up to be the star dining trend of the season. Right on cue, Food Network personality/chef Jet Tila has teamed up with executive chef Chris Barnett to helm Stir Market, a 4,000-square-foot, European-inspired boutique market hall and restaurant. All day long, indulge in seasonal fare served from multiple food counters—a European rotisserie and expo kitchen, a seasonal market-salad and sandwich counter, a wine and snack bar with charcuterie and cheese, and an artisan bakery and espresso bar— then shop for takeaway fare, gourmet gifts and signature epicurean goods. Pictured here: red kuri and butternut squash with pumpkin seeds and pomegranate. 7475 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.879.8283, stirmarket.com

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WHERE NOW / los

angeles

The Springs in downtown L.A.

DINING

SPRING INTO ACTION All aspects of L.A.’s obsession with wellness converge at The Springs, a sustainable new holistic haven in downtown’s hip Arts District. The large-scale urban oasis, founded by New York transplants Jared Stein and Kimberly Helms, aims to make good health a way of life, minus the pretension. The multifaceted space boasts an organic cold-pressed juice bar styled after a speakeasy; a yoga studio; a wellness center offering such treatments as massages and energy sessions; and a raw vegan restaurant and wine bar from chef Michael Falso. Drop in for a yoga class and grab a bottle of Bug Bite juice (strawberry, apple, blood orange, lemon) or chocolate almond milk to go. Or, if you’ve got time, unwind with a glass of organic wine and the Springs Salad, topped with pistachio-lemon vinaigrette and peppered macadamia chevre. We’re feeling better already! 608 Mateo St., downtown, 213.223.6226, thespringsla.com

An Epic Opening Husband-and-wife chef team Quinn and Karen Hatfield, whose respective talents in the savory and sweet departments draw crowds at breakfast-and-lunch spot the Sycamore Kitchen, are adding another casual restaurant to their roster, just down the street. Odys + Penelope (due

open at press time) offers an eclectic, dinner-only menu of simple, flavorful California fare made from carefully sourced ingredients. But the real standout here is the way the plates are prepared: via a wood-fired smoker, churrasco and a live-fire grill, which together serve as the location’s center-

piece. The restaurant’s name was inspired by the Greek-style columns that outfit the space, and refers to the legendary duo at the heart of Homer’s Odyssey: an apropos parallel to this modernday culinary power couple. 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033, odysandpenelope.com

FROM TOP: COURTESY THE SPRINGS; DYLAN + JENI

From left: Karen and Quinn Hatfield

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NOW FEATURING

THE

BATMAN EXHIBIT

© and ™ 2014 Warner Bros. Ent. Inc.

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WHERE NOW / los

angeles

THE DOCTOR IS IN

The Burberry flagship on Rodeo Drive

SHOPPING+BEAUTY

At the new global retail flagship for L.A.-based skin-care brand Murad, you can draw on a huge touchscreen and buy art proclaiming such insights as “When you have a bad day, you can have a good day.” What do these have to do with your skin? According to renowned dermatologist Dr. Howard Murad, everything. The path to beauty, he says, starts with a “return to the youth you used to be”—that creative, stress-free kid who embraced imperfection. For the complexion imperfections we’d rather kick to the curb, however, Murad offers an arsenal of high-performance products (we’re loving the Redness Therapy line this winter). Before you buy, try the terrifying-yetmotivating YouthCam, which analyzes high-resolution photos of your skin, then recommends a regimen based on your results. The takeaway: Use that eye cream, but also get a good night’s sleep, and take a day off once in a while. Doctor’s orders. 8207 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.413.2350, murad.com

British brand Burberry brings its iconic tartan and trench coats to a new Beverly Hills flagship on Rodeo Drive. The beautiful four-story space carries clothing, accessories, beauty products and more— including the brand’s Prorsum, London and Brit lines and a special Rodeo collection created exclusively for the opening. Beauty appointments and

personal tailoring service are also on offer, and VIP shoppers are treated to a separate floor with a glamorous wraparound rooftop terrace. Founded in 1856, the timeless fashion house is notably on the cutting edge of fashion technology. The store is outfitted with video walls and in-store digital screens that display fashion shows and the like—a

feature reminiscent of the brand’s global flagship in London. The new boutique served as the perfect backdrop when the luxury brand was recently presented with the Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award, which celebrates style legends who best marry fashion with entertainment. 301 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.4500, burberry.com

Products from Murad’s new Youth Builder Bodycare line

FROM TOP: COURTESY BURBERRY; COURTESY MURAD

From London to L.A.

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let’s do

BRUNCH Los Angeles offers endless opportunities for brunch—the meal that truly celebrates the weekend. by ROGER GRODY Although brunch occurs in the light of day, it can be both decadent and sexy—a meal designed for breaking rules. Sleeping in is part of the ritual, drinking before noon is hardly frowned upon, and gluttony is sometimes encouraged. A leisurely brunch—whether it’s croissants and café au lait at the beach or a blow-out buffet at a grand hotel—also entails something that’s far too precious during the workweek: time. Angelenos, often mistaken for possessing gastronomic restraint, celebrate brunch in a big way, and it comes in many forms. Here we explore some of L.A.’s best places for the meal that fully embodies the spirit of the weekend.

Eggs Benedict at Tres by José Andrés at the SLS Hotel in Beverly Hills

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the grand buffet Massive hotel buffet brunches appear to be gradually fading from the American dining landscape, partly because they don’t make economic sense for either restaurants or diners. And in L.A., it’s too easy to defer the experience to one’s next trip to Las Vegas. Nonetheless, several of the Westside’s premier hotels offer spreads lavish enough to keep one from straying out of the 310 area code. The Four Seasons Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, where studio deals are often negotiated poolside, offers one of the most extravagant Sunday brunches in town, with 10 different food stations (offering everything from housemade doughnuts to sushi), as well as two live drink bars, one of which turns out innovative riffs on the classic bloody mary. At the SLS Beverly Hills, Tres by José Andrés showcases a buffet with a Spanish twist, designed by the celebrity chef whose name is on the door. Pastries, smoked fish, cheese, charcuterie and much more are beautifully laid out on a long table. Other enticements include carved meats and a display of caviar with all the accoutrements, and unique cocktails. There are also à la carte

brunch offerings and a hybrid menu for the indecisive. Farther afield at the Langham Huntington, Pasadena—a grand property that oozes history—a Sunday buffet brunch is served at The Terrace, where tables spill out onto a poolside deck. The restaurant offers an expansive buffet with live jazz and traditional American breakfast items, plus a Chinese dim sum spread that satisfies one’s craving for that time-honored tradition without leaving the confines of a luxury hotel.

jetliner views Awe-inspiring views of the Pacific Ocean are a major draw at Geoffrey’s Malibu, a veritable institution for brunching in the idyllic seaside village that has been overrun by celebrities and Fortune 500 CEOs. But on the patio at Geoffrey’s, everybody is pampered with a weekend brunch menu that includes a Maine lobster Cobb salad, misobraised tofu, and filet mignon and eggs. A more rugged view of the Santa Monica Mountains is found at rustic yet elegant Saddle Peak Lodge, where bananas Foster-topped French toast,

Laurel Canyon Virgin Sunrise at Freds at Barneys

wild-game sausage and seasonal fruit beignets await guests on the restaurant’s lovely terrace. The Getty Center, perched on a hillside above Brentwood, is so packed with world-class art that eating there is sometimes relegated to a footnote. It shouldn’t be, since the Restaurant at the Getty Center is one of the best museum dining rooms in the nation, featuring a superb California-inspired menu amidst Richard Meier’s stunning architecture. The panoramic views, stretching from downtown to the Pacific, are almost as breathtaking as the art in the Getty’s galleries, so you’ll want to linger over a glass of Champagne on any given Sunday. Items such as rabbit pâté with violet mustard and blueberry compote, crab cake Benedict with Choron sauce, and duck confit hash are, of course, artfully presented.

the oven rules Santa Monica’s Huckleberry Bakery & Café is part of the growing culinary empire of young entrepreneurs Josh Loeb and his pastry chef wife, Zoe Nathan, whose other ventures include Rustic Canyon Wine Bar & Seasonal Kitchen, Milo &

Olive and Sweet Rose Creamery. Huckleberry is primarily known for Nathan’s incredible baked goods like blueberry-cornmeal cake, chocolate pudding pie and delicately crusted seasonal fruit tarts—all reason enough to drop by. However, there’s also a weekly changing brunch menu that usually includes breakfast porridge laced with almonds, honey, brown butter and cinnamon, a French croque monsieur sandwich, and a nifty fried-egg sandwich with Gruyère and bacon on country bread. Bottega Louie is immensely popular for weekend brunch, and the cavernous eatery is filled with an energy that celebrates downtown L.A.’s unlimited possibilities. It’s good advice to grab a marble bistro table near the impressive pastry cases, where you can cop the vibe of a bustling Parisian café. Pastry cases filled with chocolate truffles, éclairs and an eye-popping rainbow of French macarons reinforce the experience. The espresso drinks are top-notch and the croissants as flaky and buttery as any in L.A. The versatile menu—think smoked salmon Benedict, lobster hash and lemon-ricotta

PREVIOUS SPREAD, JILL PAIDER. THIS SPREAD, LEFT TO RIGHT: COURTESY THE FOUR SEASONS; DANIEL KRIEGER; RYAN TANAKA; COURTESY PETROSSIAN

Alfresco seating at the Four Seasons Beverly Hills

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Baked goodies at République

pancakes—is extensive and enticing, but concentrating on the pâtisserie items is a no-risk proposition.

baguettes, bagels & blinis For something French, consider Beverly Hills’ Bouchon, with the energy of a Left Bank bistro and cuisine by Thomas Keller, arguably America’s greatest chef. The pain au chocolat and almond brioche are first-rate, and a simple, perfectly dressed salad of frisée and lardons, topped by a poached egg, is a delight. You’ll also find deftly prepared boudin blanc and, appealing to American tastes, an upscale take on chicken and waffles. At Freds at Barneys New York, the iconic department store’s new restaurant, brunch translates to relaxing at an alfresco table with a view of Beverly Hills and the Hollywood sign. Regulars begin with an expertly prepared bloody mary or pink and white grapefruit juice spiked with Grey Goose, before moving on to smoked salmon or sturgeon platters—naturally, served with housemade, authentic New York-style bagels—or a homey pizza con uovo. Luxury ingredients increase

the wattage of any laid-back weekend meal. Case in point is the caviar brunch menu at Petrossian Restaurant & Boutique, where a three-course caviar-studded event begins with a lavender mimosa, Bellini or glass of Champagne. On the way out, be sure to grab some sustainable caviar and other gourmet specialties to continue the celebration at home.

terrifically trendy Campanile, ensconced in a Mediterranean building that once housed the offices of Charlie Chaplin, used to be one of L.A.’s most revered destinations for brunch. The renovated building is now occupied by République and remains a top address for Saturday or Sunday brunch. Chef Walter Manzke offers perfect omelets, the type of croque madame you might find around Place de la République in Paris, and wild-mushroom toast with scrambled eggs bathed in red wine sauce. Wife Margarita is a world-class baker and pastry chef, so be on the lookout for sweets fresh from the oven. A vegetarian and vegan brunch gets a fashionable make-

Petrossian’s sunny interior

over at Crossroads, where conscious-cuisine chef Tal Ronnen artfully plates guiltless versions of usually indulgent specialties, e.g., the Crossroads Benedict, in which chickpea panisse is layered over flatbread with sautéed kale, bathed in a shiitake bacon-tomato hollandaise. Other options include faux fried chicken and waffles with warm maple syrup, and a truffle-leek pâté sandwich washed down with a refreshing blackberry mimosa. The Church Key is home to some of the most whimsical yet beautifully executed dishes in town, courtesy of chef Steven Fretz. Detractors might consider this place gimmicky, but the food and fun overrules them. In addition to the regular brunch menu, food carts—similar to those at a Chinese dim sum restaurant—are rolled through the dining room, offering pastries and bagels with flavored cream cheese. A meal might involve a modern take on biscuits and gravy or deep-fried French toast with fig-maple syrup, while a bottomless-mimosa policy enhances the experience. And don’t leave without sampling the freshly baked brioche doughnuts with a brown-butter glaze.

the

brunch bunch Bouchon 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 / Bottega Louie 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 / The Church Key 8730 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.249.3700 / Crossroads 8284 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.782.9245 / Four Seasons Los Angeles at Beverly Hills 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.273.2222 / Freds at Barneys New York 9570 Wilshire Blvd., 5th Floor, Beverly Hills, 310.777.5877 / Geoffrey’s Malibu 27400 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.457.1519 / Huckleberry Bakery & Café 1014 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.2311 / Petrossian Restaurant & Boutique 321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.271.6300 / République 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 / Restaurant at the Getty Center 1200 Getty Center Drive, Brentwood, 310.440.6810 / Saddle Peak Lodge 419 Cold Canyon Rd., Calabasas, 818.222.3888 / The Terrace The Langham Huntington, Pasadena, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.568.3900 / Tres by José Andrés SLS Hotel Beverly Hills, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5551

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The

Pampered Palate

by ROGER GRODY

N

OT SO LONG AGO, people actually dressed for dinner. Now, there’s nary a place in Los Angeles that requires jackets for gentlemen, a rule that went the way of lobster Newberg and cherries jubilee. But for a special occasion, or simply a desire to be pampered, fine dining can still be found. One place where elegant dining persists is in hotels, where restaurants needn’t be highly profitable to still be an asset to the property. The Hotel Bel-Air has always been one of L.A.’s most exclusive retreats, an elegant boutique property that feels a thousand miles from the chaos of the city. As part of a major renovation completed in 2011, the restaurant was turned over to Wolfgang Puck and its dining room given a complete makeover without compromising the sophistication that defines the hotel. Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air features rich textures and white-linen-clad tables paired with cushy chairs in a space anchored by a grand marble-clad fireplace. Decorative

wrought iron and modern art blend traditional and contemporary elements, while bottles from a world-class wine list are showcased in glass-ensconced cellars. The best seats, however, may be on the spacious, almost idyllic terrace. Puck presents a sophisticated California menu featuring produce from boutique farms. Also offered are the chef’s signature pizzas and an occasional favorite from his Austrian childhood. One might begin with a caviar service that truly suits the setting, followed by Jidori chicken pot pie or Wiener schnitzel. A six-course tasting menu maximizes the experience, affording an opportunity to linger on premises that have attracted Hollywood royalty and heads of state for almost 70 years. José Andrés is a chef who demonstrates equal skills with traditional Spanish tapas (e.g. tortilla Española and chicken croquetas) and cutting-edge culinary creations, such as spherified olives or liquid-nitrogen-dipped caramel popcorn. His dining and drinking venues, primarily the Bazaar by José Andrés,

Egg caviar served with lemon crème fraîche and pastry at Mélisse

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OPPOSITE: COURTESY MÉLISSE. THIS PAGE: NOE MONTES

dominate the main floor of the SLS Beverly Hills, a hip Philippe Starck-designed hotel. At Saam, the gastronomy of Andrés has an elegant backdrop, refined service and presentation worthy of a special occasion. There, every meal is a three-hour prix-fixe affair, a 20-plus-course feast that provides a luscious bite of almost everything Andrés and his team are famous for. Mélisse, which racked up a pair of Michelin stars when the Red Guide was covering the city, may be the perfect brand of elegance for L.A. Just a mile from the beach in Santa Monica, the restaurant is elegant and sophisticated yet never stuffy or intimidating. With French heritage and a California upbringing, chef/owner Josiah Citrin understands how to approach French food in L.A., addressing California sensibilities without compromising classic technique. The main dining room at Mélisse is illuminated by a dramatic modern chandelier, and comfortable club chairs are pulled up to tables dressed with white and platinum linen, Bernardaud porcelain, Ercuis silver and Deshoulières glasses. A private salon called the Augustin Room is perfect for an intimate group enjoying the chef’s tasting menu. It might begin with a preciously presented softpoached egg with lemon crème fraîche and caviar, followed by New Zealand John Dory with matsutake mushrooms. The main event might be a 35-day aged New York steak or venison au poivre before finishing with a cheese course and Mélisse’s version of the classic French pastry mont blanc. Inside downtown's Walt Disney Concert Hall, Patina—currently celebrating its 25th anniversary—remains a perennially worthy option for special occasions. Dinner here is best enjoyed at a leisurely pace, involving an elaborate chef’s menu and sampling selections off a formidable cheese cart accompanied by a bottle from a list that regularly earns Wine Spectator’s coveted Grand Award. The interior of Patina was designed by architect Hagy Belzberg and beautifully suits Frank Gehry’s iconic host structure—particularly the restaurant’s richly textured walnut wall that mimics the ripples of a theater curtain. Tables are dressed in crisp white linen, and service is professional and measured but also approachable and friendly. Currently on Patina's menu are alluring starters such as uni “cappuccino” with espresso sabayon sauce and a topping of milk froth, and entrées such as bone

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Dining Details Bourbon Steak Los Angeles at the Americana at Brand 237 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.839.4130 Dal Rae Restaurant 9023 E. Washington Blvd., Pico Rivera, 562.949.2444 Jar 8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6566 Mastro’s 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 Mélisse 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 Patina Walt Disney Concert Hall, 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 Providence (dining room shown above) 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 Saam SLS Hotel Beverly Hills, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5545 Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air, 310.909.1644

marrow-crusted beef tenderloin paired with bordelaise mousse. A meal at Patina (which is known for its seasonal game dishes and black truffles) can be as memorable as Gustavo Dudamel conducting Beethoven in the auditorium next door. Classic steakhouses can be smart choices for quiet conversation or romance, given their typically rich textures, flattering lighting and polished service. The Dale Chihuly chandelier at Mastro’s in Beverly Hills sets the stage for an evening in which rich ingredients receive the attention they deserve, and Jar’s warm, clubby ambiance is as comfortable as its menu: crab deviled eggs, signature slowbraised pot roast and butterscotch pudding. Glendale’s Bourbon Steak Los Angeles at the Americana at Brand, from mega-chef/ restaurateur Michael Mina, strikes a nice balance between traditionalism and modernism. Its contemporary menu deviates from predictable standards to include duck spring rolls, Japanese shabu-shabu and a killer lobster pot pie. But the level of service, which embraces tableside preparations, is quite elevated, and the contemporary space retains

the welcoming vibe one craves in a steakhouse environment. The gently illuminated dining room features spacious leather booths encircling white-linen-clad tables, and the lounge area is dominated by a white marble bar dispensing Sazeracs and Manhattans while a pianist taps out soothing melodies. A recent redesign makes Providence warm and approachable but doesn’t detract from the restaurant’s appeal as a special-occasion destination. Interior designer Tamara KayeHoney has given the dining room a fresh, contemporary look, teaming sumptuous blue velvet club chairs and banquettes with candlelit, linen-covered tables; custom damask wallpaper is evocative of exotic sea flora. Chandeliers are clad in driftwood, and the white onyx bar remains one of L.A.’s most pleasant and intimate spaces for an expertly mixed cocktail. Overall, the design provides a restrained, elegantly nautical vibe with timeless art deco expressions. More than any seafood chef in L.A., Providence co-owner/chef Michael Cimarusti is dedicated to sourcing the finest ingredients— always sustainable and whenever possible, local—and has nurtured relationships with artisanal fishermen who reserve the best catch for him. Providence’s versatile bespoke tasting menus reflect an almost obsessive attention to quality, and Cimarusti knows the precise origin of every fish, how and when it was caught, and the care that went into its transport to his kitchen. Dishes such as Santa Barbara sea urchin nestled beneath soft scrambled eggs, served with Champagne beurre blanc and brioche, and black bass with cranberry beans, saffron and fennel reveal a rare culinary finesse. Fine dining need not be old-fashioned, but sometimes we crave a nostalgic, retro brand of luxury; a throwback to the Mad Men era when dining out meant tuxedoed waiters fussing tableside over chafing dishes. There are still restaurants like that, but finding them gets more difficult every passing year. One place that’s hardly changed since the Eisenhower administration is Dal Rae Restaurant in Pico Rivera, at the L.A. Basin's eastern edge. The good times are still rolling at this off-the-beaten-path restaurant, where traditional starters like oysters Rockefeller and crab-stuffed mushrooms are followed by antiquated classics like duck à l’orange, Châteaubriand and lobster Thermidor. For dessert, you’ll find Grand Marnier soufflés and—of course—cherries jubilee.

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WHERE ABOUTS The City of Angels is among the most vibrant and diverse cities in the Western Hemisphere. The area generally referred to as L.A. is actually made up of numerous cities and neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. Here’s our guide to the most visited among them.

SARAH HADLEY

➺ CITY INDEX 34

BEVERLY HILLS

38

SANTA MONICA

42

WEST HOLLYWOOD

46

HOLLYWOOD

50

DOWNTOWN

54

PASADENA

58

THE VALLEY

60

SOUTH BAY

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EXPLORING

Beverly Hills BEVERLY HILLS IS A LUXURY LOVER’S MECCA: DESIGNER SHOPPING, FINE DINING, MANSIONS. CENTURY CITY, WESTWOOD AND CULVER CITY ARE POCKETS WITH THEIR OWN DRAWS.

➺It’s only five square miles, but Beverly Hills looms large in pop culture as a posh locale that boasts The Mansions

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the then-new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansionbuilding in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more economically diverse than Tinseltown might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents, including film royalty and pop stars. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour or book ahead with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s nearly six square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revivalstyle Greystone Park & Mansion, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

Rodeo Drive + Golden Triangle

From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing

through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Dsquared2 and Burberry each recently opened flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and recently revamped Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Beverly Hilton Hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

The Industry + the Arts

Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment business power-

houses based here. Witness fierce negotiations and wooing over truffle tagliatelle at Scarpetta inside the Montage Beverly Hills and Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago across the street. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. There is even more cultural programming at the new Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transforms the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

Century City

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.7-squaremile modern acropolis of Century City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as is a Fox Studio lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Just past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, with luxury boutiques and dining venues to rival those of Beverly Hills. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures

FROM LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; DALE BERMAN. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

more mansions than any other area of L.A. County, not to mention the world’s most recognizable ZIP code. Rodeo Drive, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping street, offers virtually every label worth its logo.

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NEW IN TOWN Dsquared2

This flagship marks the international fashion house’s first U.S. store. Shop for accessories, womenswear, menswear and more. 461 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.0117

Ocean Prime

The luxe line of modern American supper clubs opens up its first West Coast location. Enjoy delectable dishes, handcrafted cocktails and alfresco dining. 9595 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.859.4818

Saint Laurent

Find the French fashion house’s new womenswear retail concept—and its largest store in the world—on Rodeo, thanks to creative director Hedi Slimane’s love for L.A. 326 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.5051

Prada boutique on North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Opposite, from left: Kirk Douglas Theatre in Culver City; 208 Rodeo restaurant in Beverly Hills

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The pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafes among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings.

Bruin theater in Westwood

are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, inside the towering residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA

A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden in the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the seven-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens (777 Tiverton Drive). The Hammer Museum is nearby and houses works by Degas and Rembrandt as well as contemporary works and installations. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafes among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater, and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

Culver City

Covering five square miles about four miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City has benefited from a polish in the past few years, and now boasts a thriving downtown. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend

/ the scent of luxury

➺What do John F. Kennedy, Audrey Hepburn, F. Scott Fitzgerald and Grace Kelly have in common? In addition to being icons, they all once wore fragrances by legendary perfume house Krigler, which, at press time, was readying its first West Coast location: a jewel-box boutique in L.A.’s Four Seasons Hotel. (The company also has a store in New York’s Plaza Hotel and in Monte Carlo’s Fairmont Monaco.) In addition to selling classic scents such as Chateau Krigler 12 (Kelly’s choice) and English Promenade 19 (Hepburn’s pick), the firstfloor boutique is paired with a small lab for creating bespoke perfumes and candles—the ultimate in signature scents. Four Seasons Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.273.2222, krigler.com —Suzanne Ennis

TOP: SARAH HADLEY

G R E AT F I N D

Westwood Village

the downtown area and stage excellent live productions throughout the year. Traveling east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. At the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is one end of the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that traverses from Culver City to Exposition Park and the University of Southern California to downtown. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City that claims the official motto “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened at 10202 W. Washington Blvd. Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on the lots of the movie studio. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) The stately Thomas H. Ince Studio opened in 1919. Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with the TV series Cougar Town among the productions filmed at Culver Studios, and the Spider-Man franchise among the hits produced on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking a studio tour at Sony. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 100.

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EXPLORING

Santa Monica SANTA MONICA HAS THE APPROACHABLE VIBE OF A BEACH TOWN WITH THE ATTRACTIONS OF A MAJOR CITY. MALIBU, VENICE AND MARINA DEL REY ARE APPEALING OPTIONS NEARBY.

➺In the 1800s, a real estate agent called Santa Monica “the Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century

version of Santa Monica fulfills its early promise with a bustling downtown and beach that attract millions of visitors per year. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with draws such as Malibu and Marina del Rey. Third Street Promenade, three pedestrianonly blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas or gawk at the myriad street artists. If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to Tinga or the Misfit, and enjoy drinks at the Bungalow or the many pubs such as Ye Olde King’s Head that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats. Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques and the top-level Dining Deck with a food court, upscale restaurants and a gourmet marketplace. East on Broadway is the legendary Fred Segal, an emporium of high-end shops such as JET John Eshaya. Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

Main Street + Montana Avenue

Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques, including London Sole. Father’s Office, known for its stellar burger, Locanda Portofino and R+D Kitchen are tops for dining; dessert lovers might venture to Sweet Lady Jane for its famous cakes. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachyupscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, restaurants such as Chinois on Main, British pubs and shops such as Planet Blue and Weego Home. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speak-easy, Basement Tavern.

The Arts

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertain-

ment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performing arts, film, dance and theater venue. As L.A. has emerged as a fine-arts capital, the campuslike Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave.) has become an important destination. It’s home to 30 galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art and a café.

Malibu

Twenty miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony in the 1920s, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrity-home central continues today. Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, such as the many restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled

FROM LEFT: BROWN CANNON III; SARAH HADLEY. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Third Street + the Pier

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NEW IN TOWN Gjusta

Step inside the new bakery/deli from the team behind Gjelina and find a tempting array of fresh breads, bialys, quiches, smoked meats and fish, sandwiches, pies, coffee and much more. 320 Sunset Ave., Venice, 310.314.0320

Hourglass

Shop the cult beauty favorite’s luxury performance makeup at its first flagship store, open just in time for the brand’s 10th anniversary. 1351 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.3409

Pink Chicken

The New York-based label arrives in California with colorful, stylish pieces for babies, young girls and their mothers. 1524 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.395.6048

Third Street Promenade in Santa Monica. Opposite: Geoffrey’s Malibu restaurant; Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine in Pacific Palisades

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Malibu’s land was once so coveted that heiress May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers.

A

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tions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as Superba Snack Bar, a smattering of hip shopping and industrial-chic lofts. Looky-loos stroll Ocean Front Walk to ogle the vendors and performers, or bodybuilders at Muscle Beach.

Brentwood

The Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades

with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard shopping centers, there are enough trendy shops and restaurants to while away an afternoon. Inland, nearing Calabasas, is wine country. Malibu Discovery offers tours of the region, with stops at tasting rooms such as Malibu Wines and Sip Malibu.

Topanga + Pacific Palisades

In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessed by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific

G R E AT F I N D

Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park, and cafes and upscale momand-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of “the Palisades” is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

Venice

Abbot Kinney won the land that would become Venice in a coin toss. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, today lined with million-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where The Tasting Kitchen, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Alexis Bittar and A+R are the main attrac-

Reese Witherspoon, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner are some of the celebrities said to live in this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafes and restaurants between Bundy Drive and where San Vicente becomes Federal Avenue. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.

G et Ar co se

Marina del Rey

Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants in the fisherman’s wharf are positioned to take advantage of the views. Rent kayaks from Marina del Rey Boat Rentals, and shop or dine at Waterside, Marina del Rey, located at Lincoln Boulevard and Fiji Way. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 100.

/ on the hunt

Buck Mason in Venice endeavors to make the impossible possible: an easy, enjoyable clothes-shopping experience for guys. The retailer’s owners, Erik Schnakenberg and Sasha Koehn, designed Buck Mason’s tightly edited line of menswear basics for the shopping-averse, decision-fatigued gentleman. The made-in-L.A. collection features clean-lined essentials: T-shirts, jeans, chinos, button-down shirts and leather belts that look as appropriate and stylish on hipsters as they do on 9-to-5-ers. Scope out the goods in store or hit up Buck Mason’s e-commerce site, where you can order curated packages of clothing to try on. (Bonus: You pay for only the items you keep.) 580 Venice Blvd., Venice, 888.944.5374, buckmason.com —Katie McCarthy

TOP: ASHOK SINHA

➺If you ask a man where he likes to shop, expect to hear a variation on “Nowhere.”

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EXPLORING

West Hollywood TRENDS IN FASHION, DESIGN AND FOOD OFTEN BEGIN IN L.A., AND MANY OF THOSE INNOVATIONS CAN BE TRACED TO THE PIONEERING COMMUNITY OF WEST HOLLYWOOD.

➺For a municipality measuring less than two square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West

Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a number of world-class art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike. After dark, this iconic stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with many legendary establishments. The Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room have a long history of hosting performances from rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Other Sunset Strip nightclubs include Bootsy Bellows and Rock & Reilly’s. The Comedy Store continues to showcase the leading names in stand-up as well as emerging stars. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic. Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. Skybar, at the style-conscious Mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

Sunset Plaza

Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a

collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking, a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl. For up-to-the-minute fashion, check out the collections at Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial and massage at Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington.

Melrose Avenue

Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street with multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has an eclectic mix of indie boutiques, cafes and coffeehouses interspersed with tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild façades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Ron Herman, Kelly Wearstler, TenOverSix and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose

is the quiet, fashionable three-block street of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Frédéric Fekkai and cutting-edge boutiques such as the Row, Monique Lhuillier and Isabel Marant.

West Hollywood Design District Melrose Avenue’s massive Pacific Design Center is the hub of L.A.’s flourishing art, fashion and design district, formerly known as the Avenues, which runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. The complex itself—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—is itself noteworthy, and its 1.2 million square feet house more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury homeowners. PDC is also home to a satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

Beverly + West 3rd

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street are major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, filled with trendy restau-

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; MONICA NOUWENS. OPPOSITE: SARAH HADLEY

Sunset Strip

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NEW IN TOWN Murad

Marking its 25th anniversary, the skin-care and Inclusive Health brand founded by Dr. Howard Murad opens a global flagship. 8207 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.413.2350

Pistola

This modern Italian steakhouse from Gusto’s Vic Casanova is a nostalgic tribute to Italian comfort food. 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.9800

Wildfox

Find whimsical, vintage-inspired fashions at this pretty-in-pink Sunset Plaza store— the celeb-beloved brand’s first flagship retail storefront. 8710 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.855.9030

Chris Burden’s installation Urban Light at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Opposite, from left: Farmers Market; a Melrose Avenue boutique

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Beverly Hills may be the toniest shopping district in L.A., but Robertson Boulevard is not far behind.

The Pacific Design Center, aka “the Blue Whale,” anchors the West Hollywood Design District.

rants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, whose design is reminiscent of Paris’ Pompidou Center. Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Fendi, Gucci, Giuseppe Zanotti, True Religion Brand Jeans, Uniqlo, Maje and Sandro boutiques are among more than 160 establishments drawing consumers. On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as BedHead for chic pajamas and Duncan Quinn for bespoke tailored suits. The many great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s Son of a Gun, plus a branch of Magnolia Bakery. On Beverly Boulevard, you can browse vintage couture at Beige or high-end home décor and accessories at Garde. Afterward, you can experience market-fresh American cuisine at Cooks County or hearty Italian on the romantic patio at Dominick’s.

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Robertson Boulevard

Beverly Hills may be the county’s toniest shopping district, but Robertson Boulevard is not far behind, particularly if you’re young and hot and have your own reality show. The celebutante set hits Rebecca Taylor for womenswear, Zimmermann for haute swimwear and Kitson for trendy accessories. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail with crab cakes on the picket-fenced patio of Ivy Restaurant, where famous faces practically outnumber those of civilians.

Fairfax District

Technically part of the city of Los Angeles, the Fairfax District is one of the most culturally diverse and artsy neighborhoods in the West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned

multifaceted facility with more than 100,000 works from around the world. The Broad Contemporary Art Museum, designed by architect Renzo Piano, showcases art from the contemporary and modern eras, while the latest additions to the LACMA campus include the Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavilion and Ray’s & Stark Bar. Adjacent to LACMA is the Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits. Additional venues on this formidable Museum Row include the Petersen Automotive Museum and the Architecture and Design Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious foodies: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed traditional restaurants are located. Be prepared to eat with your hands! One of the district’s anchors is the historic Farmers Market, with more than 100 open-air produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, taqueria and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo and Korean barbecue. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrian-only shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass street lamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as Topshop Topman are joined by myriad restaurants. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of West Hollywood, see pages 100-101.

/ sweets from the swedes

confectionery is a veritable Ikea of candy. The Scandinavian sweet shop—the name means “sugar cube”—just blocks away from the Grove stocks candy and adorable gift items from Sweden, Denmark, Finland and Norway. Step inside the stark white interior, decked with rows of colorful candies running the length of the wall, grab a paper bag and plastic scoop and go to town. Choose from chocolate-covered hazelnuts, the signature white-cubed marshmallows, licorice and a menagerie of puckerworthy sour gummies. The best part? It’s an (almost) guilt-free indulgence; the candy is free of trans fats, artificial colors and GMOs. Find a handful of vegan-friendly options as well. 7922 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.0402, sockerbit.com —Gillian Glover

TOP: EDWIN SANTIAGO

➺Don’t let Sockerbit’s athletic-sounding name fool you; West 3rd Street’s new

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Celebrating 80 years... Still the center of attention.

Since 1934, the Original Farmers Market has stood as a living testament to Los Angeles history and culture. Today, it remains one of the last of the great Hollywood landmarks, attracting people from all over the world to enjoy its ecletic mix of over 100 world-class restaurants, specialty shops, artisan grocers and the best people watching anywhere. In a city built by distraction, this charming 80-year old remains a classic beauty standing on the corner of Third & Fairfax, still turning heads.

Market events and activities throughout the year. Visit farmersmarketla.com for calendars and updates.

The Original 80 YEARS • 1934 –2014

6333 W. Third ST. • LoS AngeLeS • fArmerSmArkeTLA.com • 323.933.9211 Insta

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EXPLORING

Hollywood HOLLYWOOD IS IN THE MIDST OF A NEW GOLDEN AGE, AND ITS HIP, UP-AND-COMING NEIGHBORS LOS FELIZ, SILVER LAKE AND ECHO PARK SHARE IN THE LIMELIGHT.

➺“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was in the midst of Hollywood + Highland

The Hollywood & Highland Center has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Ohm nightclub and shops such as Kitson and Louis Vuitton. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity handprints embedded in the concrete out front.

Showtime

Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s releases combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb

was discovered—screens eclectic artsy fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including The Book of Mormon and Wicked, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing headlining musicians.

Walk of Fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath the feet of tourists, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is appropriately located in front of the Capitol Records Building, the structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

Museums, Hollywood-style

Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds

Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends Clark Gable and Audrey Hepburn to contemporary stars such as Taylor Swift and Ryan Reynolds. You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Record Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions on double-headed animals and shrunken human heads. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.

Around Vine

The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass

FROM LEFT: SARAH HADLEY; DALE BERMAN. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

its decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination, and waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals.

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NEW IN TOWN Bowery Bungalow

Chef George AbouDaoud serves farmto-table cuisine with a Middle Eastern flair. 4156 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 323.663.1500

Butchers & Barbers

Nightlife impresarios the Houston Brothers open their first restaurant. 6531 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.1464

Mercado

The growing SoCal brand of Mexican restaurants opens a new Hollywood outpost. 3413 Cahuenga Blvd. W., L.A., 323.512.2500

Hollywood & Highland Center in Hollywood. Opposite, from left: the Capitol Records building and Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium in Hollywood

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The largest urban park in America, the sprawling Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more.

Griffith Observatory in Griffith Park offers stunning views of the L.A. Basin.

transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo. Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia. A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by other hip boutiques.

Nightcrawling

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its endless nightlife opportunities, and a lively bar and club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under

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the guise of literary advancement at librarythemed Hemingway’s, and attempt to get past the velvet rope at Playhouse (or try Lure on Ivar Avenue). Cahuenga Boulevard also hosts dozens of clubs. Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. Nearby is the Ford Amphitheatre, featuring a more intimate environment for international music, dance and family fare.

Los Feliz + Silver Lake

These neighborhoods are among the bestkept secrets in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Newer

lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. A once-forgotten stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz now hosts boutiques such as Paper Moon Vintage and restaurants including cult fave Umami Burger. Fully transformed is Silver Lake Boulevard, now crowded with eateries and upscale retailers. At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther east on Sunset Boulevard, chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

Griffith Park

The largest urban park in America, the sprawling Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at the Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also located here are the Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western heritage-oriented Autry National Center, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 101-102.

/ leather wares fit to kill

with a penchant for shopping local would be remiss to miss Spencer Nikosey’s Silver Lake storefront, Killspencer. The corner shop, with its eye-catching exterior covered in graphic Keith Haring-esque paintings, doubles as a workshop where the artisan and his team design and craft each piece in-house. Find a small marketplace of products, including the brand’s signature backpack (choose from supple leather, burgundy Italian oil suede, nylon or jacquard camo), structured weekender bags and cases for iPads and iPhones. Photographers will love the new camera bags; athletic types are sure to appreciate handcrafted footballs and basketballs. With an eye toward functionality and quality, Killspencer’s goods make prime gifts for dapper gents. 2522 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.484.0888, killspencer.com —Gillian Glover

TOP: EDWIN SANTIAGO

➺Those

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Š2012 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 12-ADV-12219

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EXPLORING

Downtown L.A.’S URBAN CENTER REFLECTS THE CULTURAL DIVERSITY, WORLD-CLASS ARCHITECTURE AND DYNAMIC COMMERCE THAT MAKE THE CITY A SUPERSTAR ON THE GLOBAL STAGE.

➺Downtown Los Angeles could not be hotter, with new restaurants and shops opening daily. Historic art

deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and even movie stars are snapping up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts scene roars to life here, where the image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies. Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the station, which celebrated its 75th anniversary this year, has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From Union Station, the hub of the Metro system, you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley, or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or Expo Line to Culver City. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer scenic coastal journeys.

Grand Avenue + Music Center

The heart of L.A.’s performing-arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at the Music Center. The 3,200-seat Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host

theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Its music director, Gustavo Dudamel, exudes an energy that rivals the building’s audacious design. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, media and performing arts productions. After a show, take a stroll through the new 12-acre Grand Park, between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and First and Temple streets.

Descending Bunker Hill

Steps from the Music Center is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), Southern California’s premier contemporary art museum. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent. Nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery amid the concrete jungle. Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (dormant at press time) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest Railway in the World.” At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at

the U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Across the street is the art deco-style Los Angeles Public Library.

Olvera Street

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.

Historic Districts

Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel), have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Hip shops such as Acne Studios lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building (304 S. Broadway), built in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

FROM LEFT: MATT HARTMAN, COURTESY GRAND PARK. OPPOSITE: LISA ROMEREIN

Union Station

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NEW IN TOWN Pete’s

Bäco Mercat’s Josef Centeno reopens the Historic Core’s iconic café with a new James Beard-inspired menu. 400 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.7015

Plan Check Kitchen + Bar

The minichain gains a new location to serve its modern American comfort food, including the acclaimed Plan Check Burger. 1111 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.403.1616

The Springs

This new holistic haven in the Arts District offers an organic juice bar, yoga studio, wellness center and a raw vegan restaurant. 608 Mateo St., downtown, 213.223.6226

Walt Disney Concert Hall. Opposite, from left: Fans at Dodger Stadium in Chavez Ravine; Grand Park

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Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters.

sleek Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the Cathedral of St. Vibiana, former home of the Los Angeles Archdiocese.

L.A. Live

Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish.

Shopping Districts

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers to markets such as St. Vincent Jewelry Center (650 S. Hill St.); in the neighboring Fashion District, centered around the California Market Center, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the

G R E AT F I N D

burgeoning Figat7th shopping center boasts trendy new boutiques and eateries.

Chinatown

Chinatown remains a great destination for sampling dim sum or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple (750 Yale St.) and the Chinese American Museum. Pedestrian-oriented Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to galleries; Broadway boasts boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

Little Tokyo

Little Tokyo is still a proud ethnic enclave, but it, too, is emerging as an up-and-coming hipster ’hood. The dining scene is popping, led by newer restaurants such as Lazy Ox Canteen, and you can nibble on traditional sushi prepared by veteran chefs at Japanese Village Plaza. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the

/ althouse rules

➺ Steps from downtown’s revitalized Broadway retail corridor sits a new shopping hot spot with a homegrown feel. AltHouse owner and Los Angeles native Jennifer Althouse, a former head buyer for American Rag, fills this loftlike boutique with directional womenswear and accessories cherry-picked from the collections of sought-after indie designers from around the world. Covetable pieces from Suno, Rachel Comey, Apiece Apart and Dieppa Restrepo (whose flats are pictured at right) mingle with L.A. labels such as Grey Ant, Xirena and H by Hudson. Want to bring home some fresh made-in-DTLA style? Look to the proprietor’s just-launched label, ALT, which features vintage-inspired denim and leather outerwear. 761 S. Main St., downtown, 213.488.1374, shopalthouse.com —Katie McCarthy

Exposition Park

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. The California African American Museum touches on African American history, and the Beaux Arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of downtown, see page 101.

FROM TOP: MATT HARTMAN; MELISSA DI MEGLIO

The retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour at the California Science Center in Exposition Park

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project has been called the epicenter of the downtown renaissance. Staples Center, home to the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, hosts top pop acts, as does Nokia Theatre L.A. Live, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Rock’n Fish and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

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EXPLORING

Pasadena PASADENA BRINGS A BLEND OF SMALL-TOWN CHARM AND COSMOPOLITAN ENERGY. NEIGHBORING TERRITORIES EAGLE ROCK, GLENDALE AND THE SAN GABRIEL VALLEY ARE ALSO WORTH DISCOVERING.

➺Pasadena is no ordinary bedroom community, with Craftsman-style bungalows hinting at a worldOld Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut Street and Del Mar Boulevard, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the district contains restored buildings, trendy boutiques and excellent restaurants such as Union, from lauded chef Bruce Kalman (37 E. Union St.). Pedestrian-only alleys meander through One Colorado, where chic shops such as Gold Bug, Mohawk General Store and Oska beckon and restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. A few steps east of Old Pasadena lies Paseo Colorado, a shopping and dining center with ArcLight Cinemas and upscale shops lining garden promenades. This mixed-use development’s open-air design frames views of such historic structures as Pasadena City Hall (100 N. Garfield Ave.).

Playhouse District + South Lake Avenue

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district is filled with upscale

antique shops, boutiques and dining rooms with ornate façades. Also present is the Le Cordon Bleu-affiliated College of Culinary Arts, with a restaurant open to the public, and the famed Ice House comedy club. The neighboring Boston Court Performing Arts Center presents dramas and musicals. The pagodacrowned USC Pacific Asia Museum features decorative arts from every corner of Asia, and the Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State art, architecture and design from 1850 to the present. Just east of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue is a vibrant, 12-block shopping and dining district. At the Commons and Burlington Arcade, charming boutiques are set around European-style courtyards. Farther south on Lake Avenue is the opulent, historic Langham Huntington hotel.

Orange Grove Boulevard

This wide boulevard, once called Millionaire’s Row, is still lined with splendid estates, including the former Wrigley Mansion, which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association and is open for tours from February to August. The immediate neigh-

borhood features the legacy of architects Frank Lloyd Wright, Wallace Neff and Paul Williams. The genius of Greene & Greene, pioneers of the Arts and Crafts movement, is evident at the Gamble House, also open to the public. Just around the corner on Colorado Boulevard is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in America. The galleries at this museum are filled with masterpieces from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and its repertoire of Impressionist masters (Degas, Cézanne, van Gogh) is impressive. It also features extensive art from India and a tribute to Monet in a lovely sculpture garden.

San Marino + South Pasadena

In the exclusive residential community of San Marino is the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens, one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here the beautifully restored Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington is packed with 18th- and 19th-century art including Thomas Gainsborough’s Blue Boy and Sir Thomas

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; EDWIN SANTIAGO. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

renowned architectural heritage, and institutions such as the Tournament of Roses and Caltech giving the community a gravitas far beyond its size. In nearby San Gabriel Valley, additional treasures await.

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NEW IN TOWN Diane von  Furstenberg

The iconic designer brings her signature wrap dress to the Americana at Brand. 106 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.459.4637

Magnolia House Fittingly, brothers Chris and John Bicos’ first craft cocktail bar is set in a 1912 Craftsman bungalow. 492 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.584.1126

Oak Woodland

A world of oaks and native plants awaits in Descanso Gardens’ new garden addition. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200

Gamble House in Pasadena. Opposite, from left: Window-shoppers on Colorado Boulevard in Pasadena; the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens in San Marino

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The Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden’s natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peafowl.

ering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre (216 N. Brand Blvd.), an art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Just north of downtown Glendale is the delightful community of Montrose, with its homespun shops and all-American diners. Nearby is sprawling Descanso Gardens, home to North America’s largest camellia collection, fully in bloom from January to February.

San Gabriel Valley

Lawrence’s Pinkie. A library with 600,000 rare books and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than one dozen distinct botanical environments, re-creating native habitats from England, China and elsewhere. Tea service is offered in a cottage amid a formal rose garden. Directly south of Old Pasadena is the independent municipality of South Pasadena, a shady, tranquil community. The Mission West historic district, particularly Mission Street, is packed with antique shops, galleries and cafes. The town is particularly kidfriendly, thanks to adorable shops such as the Dinosaur Farm and Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a 1915 restored drugstore with a soda fountain.

Eagle Rock + Glendale

Just west of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town that is reinventing itself as a hip neighborhood with an understated bohochic vibe. Students from Occidental College,

G R E AT F I N D

where a young Barack Obama studied, mingle with young couples who have snapped up the hillside real estate. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is suddenly lined with one trendy cafe after another, from Vietnamese and French to Italian and vegetarian. On the other side of Eagle Rock is Glendale. Office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Here, find value at H&M or splurge at the new David Yurman. The center is a great place for a movie followed by dinner and cocktails at Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak or Katsuya. The trilevel indoor shopping center Glendale Galleria is adjacent. Its department stores include Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Target, and specialty boutiques include Banana Republic, Coach and Tilly’s. Glendale’s diverse population—it’s home to one of the largest Armenian communities in America—provides plenty of flavor, including elaborate restaurants. Marked by a tow-

/ signed, sealed, delivered

➺ Sasha Martinus is a self-described “big fan of small shops with specific points of

view on fashion and style.” So it’s no surprise that her Eagle Rock boutique, Letters From LA, has earned a loyal following for being just that. In addition to stocking clothing and accessories by under-the-radar and well-known designers including Ofina jewelry, Citizens of Humanity and Sydney Hale (candles pictured at right), the FIDM-trained designer creates an in-house Letters From LA line that incorporates deadstock fabrics and is made—from pattern through production—in downtown L.A. The resulting selection suits women whose tastes run the gamut from classic to bohemian but consistently reflects Martinus’ sunny, Cali-cool sensibility. 5022 Eagle Rock Blvd., L.A., 323.340.1546, shoplettersfromla.com —Suzanne Ennis

Kissing Pasadena’s eastern border is Sierra Madre, a quaint community that refuses to be paved over. Arcadia is home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred horse racing venues in the world. Adjacent to the racetrack is Westfield Santa Anita, an ever-expanding shopping center. The 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanic Garden’s natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peafowl; you might see a flock crossing nearby streets. The 1771 San Gabriel Mission is a notable landmark in the neighboring city of San Gabriel. The San Gabriel Valley cities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Alhambra and Monterey Park have drawn large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants in recent decades, and some of the best Chinese restaurants in America are found here, including Hong Kong-style seafood houses that are great fun for dim sum brunches. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 102.

TOP: JOSEPH LLANES; BOTTOM, KRISTINA LLOYD

Public art near Pasadena City Hall

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EXPLORING

The Valley HOLLYWOOD MIGHT BE THE SPIRITUAL CENTER OF THE ENTERTAINMENT INDUSTRY, BUT THE SAN FERNANDO VALLEY, AKA “THE OTHER SIDE OF THE HILL,” IS WHERE MOVIEMAKING MAGIC HAPPENS.

➺The Valley is a sprawling collection of bedroom communities whose population approaches

2 million. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge. Just a couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment industry outpost. The highlight is certainly Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-thescenes peek into moviemaking. The theme park offers some rollicking roller coasters as well as high-tech virtual-reality action rides such as the new Despicable Me attraction and King Kong 360 3-D, created by film director Peter Jackson. Make like Brad and Angelina and splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience. Its guests are pampered like celebrities, getting tours of the studio’s prop warehouses and cutting to the front of the line for every ride. Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at IFly Hollywood, an exhilarating wind tunnel, mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House, stand-up routines at Jon Lovitz Comedy Club, raucous performances at piano bar Howl at the Moon and rock ‘n’ roll bowling at Jillian’s Hi Life Lanes. Boutiques such as Abercrombie &

Fitch, Lush Cosmetics, Skechers and Guess Accessories will loosen your wallet.

Burbank

The “beautiful downtown Burbank” that Johnny Carson used to poke fun at has grown into a cosmopolitan hub with 80 restaurants, 200 shops and 30 movie screens. Burbank Town Center (201 E. Magnolia Blvd.) offers a major mall shopping experience, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel with hip shops and trendy bistros such as Granville Cafe. Magnolia Park, a quaint commercial district centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, offers cafes, antique shops and boutiques including Encore Nouveau and Swift. Massive Porto’s Bakery offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from the owners’ native Cuba and from Europe, too, and the iconic Bob’s Big Boy hosts a classiccar show every Friday. DeBell Golf Club is open to the public and offers a challenging 18-hole course and a par-three course. If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for

convenient, uncongested Bob Hope Airport in Burbank. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and reduces stress, especially for visitors to the San Fernando Valley, Pasadena or San Gabriel Valley communities.

Burbank’s Studios

While the Valley may be dismissed by Westside hipsters, there’s as much Hollywood going on here as in Hollywood itself, thanks to the presence of several studios in Burbank. Go behind the scenes of your favorite shows at the Warner Bros. Studios VIP tour, which offers back-lot tours similar to those at Universal, and all of the studios recruit audience members for tapings of sitcoms and talk shows. Audiences Unlimited is among the ticketing agencies offering the best opportunities to score free tickets to tapings.

North Hollywood

North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; IAN WHITE. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Universal City

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dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., as neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With the addition of new restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub with a full calendar of music and comedy, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village. From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway, or board the Orange Line, a surprisingly sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

Ventura Boulevard

This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles from one end of the San Fernando Valley to the other. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture. As it stretches through Studio City, it’s lined with an eclectic mix of eateries, from entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli to elegant Bistro Garden, not to mention a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo. For shopping, there are hip boutiques including Dari and stylish retreats such as Belle Visage Day Spa, owned by Kirsten Dunst’s mother, and Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and supper clubs including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene. You’ll see plenty of famous faces in the Valley, where celebrities treasure its more family-oriented lifestyle. Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and featuring upscale boutiques in a particularly pleasant environment. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas.

Universal CityWalk in Universal City. Caption for all images Opposite, from here Caption forleft: all A confection from images here Caption renowned Porto’s for all images here Bakery Caption forinallBurbank; images NoHo Arts District in North Hollywood

Deep in the Valley

Westfield Promenade is a mall in Canoga Park with shops and restaurants such as Ruby’s Diner. Neighboring Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Cartier, Hugo Boss and David Yurman, plus anchoring department stores Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Macy’s. Farther westbound on the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for clean air and more elbow room. Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas

(4799 Commons Way), a pleasant open-air destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons. Air Force One is permanently grounded at the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library & Museum in neighboring Simi Valley. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster enthusiasts gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 102.

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EXPLORING

South Bay THE SOUTH BAY’S BEACHES AND HARBORS ARE ACTION-PACKED, BUT THE LIVING IS EASY. LOOK FOR OCEAN-VIEW DINING, MOM-AND-POP SHOPS AND SEASIDE ATTRACTIONS.

➺In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts two miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. This laid-back city is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the city’s picturesque pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks. The pier features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including boogie-boarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as M.B. Post, Fishing with Dynamite, Little Sister and The Strand House drawing gourmands from across Los Angeles. Metlox plaza is a popular gathering spot, with shops such as the Beehive and hot spots including Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics of Manhattan Beach, including a scenic twomile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path), and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from hopping bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s and Mediterraneo. Beyond Pier Plaza to the south, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday night shows. To the plaza’s east, the eco-friendly cafe/boutique Gum Tree is a charming standout among the specialty shops and bistros that line Pier Avenue. Across the street, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear.

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat

Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring two miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here, you find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering recreational fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent kayaks, paddle boats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick-andcasual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow beach of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

THIS PAGE: LISA ROMEREIN. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

coastal stretch renowned for surfing, volleyball and expensive real estate. Farther south beckon the bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula and beyond them, the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach.

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NEW IN TOWN Love & Salt

Italian comfort meets SoCal sensibility in this new spot helmed by chef Michael Fiorelli. 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252

Manhattan Beach Yacht Club

Local fave Two Guns Espresso sets up shop on the pier. 1 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.318.2537

Marine Layer

Buy soft shirts made in California from this down-to-earth brand. 300 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.376.2960

Korean Bell of Friendship in San Pedro. Opposite, from left: Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach; Gum Tree boutique in Hermosa Beach

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Among Long Beach’s most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel.

Manhattan Beach is prime surfing territory and renowned for its fine sand.

Palos Verdes Peninsula

Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Eight miles inland on Crenshaw Boulevard sprawls the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden in tony Palos Verdes Estates. Hugging the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West brings you to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a marine museum and popular gray-whale-watching site during the annual migration. Just beyond is the Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a spa and a public nine-hole golf course. A few miles south along Palos Verdes Drive West is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son, Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue. Nearby, the 18-hole public course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.

G R E AT F I N D

San Pedro

The multicultural city of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today, it’s home to the Port of Los Angeles, a container port that also serves travelers on the Catalina Express and more than one million cruise passengers annually. From the port’s World Cruise Center, a trolley takes visitors downtown to the waterfront restaurants and shops of the New England-style Ports O’ Call Village, and then to the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex includes the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium, located next to Cabrillo Beach. Windsurfers of all abilities congregate here, with outfitters including Captain Kirk’s (525 N. Harbor Blvd.) offering rentals and lessons.

Long Beach

In the southwest corner of L.A. County, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port,

an attraction-packed waterfront and more than five miles of beaches. Among its most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted shipturned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. Alongside it is the Cold War-era Scorpion Russian Submarine. The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center and The Pike at Rainbow Harbor entertainment complex are nearby, as is the Aquarium of the Pacific and the family-friendly Shoreline Village. From the village, you can rent bicycles and follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles along the water, passing the Long Beach Museum of Art. The path ends at the tony Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find restaurants and shops along 2nd street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier, windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons, and even gondola rides through the canals of Naples. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage furniture and clothing shops such as the Vintage Collective make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 101.

/ home is where the art is

a haven for artists and art-lovers alike. Founders Brian and Eva Sweeney are passionate collectors, with treasures ranging from Monets to Warhols. Their nonprofit is more functional art laboratory than typical museum, with exhibitions referred to as “experiences,” and a unique “artist in residence” program. Currently on display is HOME, an exploration of what constitutes art within living spaces. Find works by Dutch Golden Age painters and German Expressionists arranged throughout a space outfitted like a cozy apartment. With provocative and interactive shows like this, ESMoA is an art platform that’s putting the South Bay city on the cultural map. 208 Main St., El Segundo, 424.277.1020, esmoa.org —Gillian Glover

TOP: ASHOK SINHA

➺A more recent addition to L.A.’s art scene, ESMoA quickly established itself as

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L.A.’S PREMIER RESTAURANTS INNOVATIVE DINING GROUP

HAPPY HOUR MONDAY THROUGH FRIDAY 5-8 PM

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HAPPY HOUR: MONDAY-FRIDAY, 5-7 PM 9201 Sunset Blvd. • 310. 278. 2060 rivabellarestaurant.com

CALIFORNIA BISTRO & BAR W Hollywood • 6250 Hollywood Blvd. • 323.798.1355 restaurantdelphine.com

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Hollywood • Pasadena Santa Monica

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where

the guide

AUDREY MA

Veg Out Koreatown’s trendy the Line Hotel is fast becoming an insider favorite, largely for its array of noteworthy culinary offerings from celebrity chef Roy Choi: Pot, Pot Lobby Bar, Cafe, events, room service and now, Commissary, which opened last summer on the hotel’s second-story roof deck. The poolside farm-to-table spot is a vegetarian’s dream, with a menu full of fruitand vegetable-themed dishes and drinks (such as the savory tomatoand-okra cocktail pictured here), although there’s plenty for omnivores to enjoy, as well. Stop by for a unique dining experience; you’ll feel like you wandered into a (gorgeous) working greenhouse. The Line Hotel, 2nd Floor Greenhouse, 3515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.368.3030, eatatpot.com

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Dining American

Guidelines

ANIMAL  Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known as the “Two Dudes” to Food Network fans, is a carnivore’s dream. Think delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly).  435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$  Map I13

Index

THE CHURCH KEY  With off-menu items rolled table-totable, this trendy spot has adopted the charm and spontaneity of dim sum. The menu—playful and eclectic with a wide variety of global influences—is executed and presented with style. In addition, mixologists dressed as a Pan Am flight attendants steer airline food carts loaded with liquid nitro cocktails. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly).  8730 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.249.3700 $$$  Map H12 CLAIM JUMPER  Saloon-style eatery features hearty grill fare and its own label of craft beer. L (M-F), D (nightly).  3500 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.260.0505; 820 W. Huntington Drive, Monrovia, 626.359.0463; 9429 Tampa Ave., Northridge, 818.718.2882; 25740 The Old Road, Valencia, 661.254.2628; 6501 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Long Beach, 562.431.1321 $  Map T22, Q23, north of A1, north of A1, D4

Check It Out

Restaurateur Terry Heller’s trendy minichain, Plan Check Kitchen + Bar, gains a new location, so downtowners no longer have to make the trek to Hollywood or West L.A. to sink their teeth into executive chef Ernesto Uchimura’s acclaimed Plan Check Burger, beloved for its innovative strip of ketchup leather. Like its siblings, the new outpost serves up culturally inspired takes on American comfort food, alongside new dishes that pay homage to the culturally rich neighborhood. Pair the K-BBQ burger topped with kimcheese, gochujang barbecue sauce and grilled pork belly (pictured above) with a craft beer or a premium Japanese whiskey from the bar. Heller says the new space is the most sophisticated and urban Plan Check yet—all the better to fit in with the area’s impressive architecture. (See listing at right.)

CAULFIELD’S  Beverly Hills’ literary-inspired American bistro offers comfort classics such as roasted chicken and braised short ribs. B, L, D (daily).  9360 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.388.6860 $$$  Map J11 CRAFT  New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus with falafel and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M–F), D (M–Sa).  10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$  Map K11 INK.  An L.A. culinary darling, Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio showcases daring, thoughtful molecular gastronomy at his first restaurant. Get a five-course tasting menu or explore à la carte items including smoked trout with radish and roe, and fried chicken oatmeal with a sunny-side-up egg. D (nightly).  8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.651.5866 $$$  Map I12 JAR  Chef Suzanne Tracht presents an L.A. take on traditional, comforting American fare in a chic interpretation of an old-school chophouse. Don’t miss the signature pot roast. Br (Su), D (nightly).  8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6566 $$$  Map I12 JOAN’S ON THIRD  Celebrity-frequented cafe on busy West 3rd Street, as well as a new location in the Valley, offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups, sweets plus picnic baskets, gourmet items. B, L, D (daily).  8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $  Map I12, T18 M.B. POST  Small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans, Brussels sprouts and cauliflower look tantalizing. Br (Sa–Su), L (F-Su), D (nightly).  1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$  Map L13 MUSSO & FRANK GRILL  Hollywood’s oldest (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes, lobster Thermidor and Welsh rarebit with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L, D (Tu–Sa).  6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$  Map H13 NOÉ  Visitors heading to the Walt Disney Concert Hall find Noé a convenient spot for a classy repast. Noé serves a rotating “neo-bistro” menu that might include braised short ribs with red wine and rosemary, or seared ahi tuna. D (nightly).  Omni Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.356.4100 $$  Map H16

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

American..............................66 Breweries/Gastropubs....68 British......................................68 California...............................68 Chinese..................................68 Eclectic/Fusion...................68 French.....................................69 Italian......................................70 Japanese................................. 71

Mediterranean.................... 72 Mexican/Latin.................... 73 Pan-Asian.............................. 73 Quick Bites........................... 74 Seafood.................................. 74 Spanish.................................. 74 Steak....................................... 74 Thai.......................................... 74

PLAN CHECK KITCHEN + BAR  A growing minichain famous for its innovative comfort food from chef Ernesto Uchimura. Contemporary takes on American classics are complemented with craft beers, cocktails and premium whiskeys. Try the acclaimed Plan Check Burger, topped with dashi cheese and ketchup leather.  1800 Sawtelle Blvd., L.A., 310.444.1411; 351 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.591.0094; 1111 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.403.1616 $$ Map K9, I12, H16 R+D KITCHEN  Bustling industrial-style eatery with salads, sandwiches, meatloaf and more. L, D (daily).  1323 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.395.3314 $$  Map K8 SALT CREEK GRILLE  Enjoy mesquite-grilled burgers, chops, steaks and seafood and an interesting selection of California beers and wines at this classic American restaurant. Outdoor patio and live music create a relaxed atmosphere. L, D (daily).  2015 E. Park Place, El Segundo, 310.335.9288 $$  Map L14 SEASONS 52  No deep-frying. Lots of flavor. Stylish decor, eclectic seasonal menu, Mini Indulgences desserts and a superior wine list. L, D (daily).  1501 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.1152; Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.5252 $$  Maps L8, J11 SECO  New American cuisine, plus wine, beer and crafted cocktails, in the former Cafe 140 South space. L, D (daily).  140 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.449.9900 $$  Map R21 THE STRAND HOUSE  This South Bay restaurant with awesome ocean views is sophisticated enough to compete with any restaurant in L.A. County’s hipper parts. House-made charcuterie precedes dishes such as hamachi crudo. Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (nightly).  117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$  Map L13 TRUXTON’S AMERICAN BISTRO  Friendly neighborhood eatery serves reinvented American classics and approachable dishes with ethnic twists. B (Sa-Su), L, D (daily).  1329 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.8789 $$  Map L8 UMAMI BURGER  Hot specialty burger joint; try the signature Umami Burger with tempura onion rings. L, D (daily).  4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.669.3922; 1520 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.3100; 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.286.9004; additional locations at umami.com $  Map W22, H14, A2 WOLFGANG PUCK AT THE HOTEL BEL-AIR  A favorite hideaway of Hollywood elite, the Hotel Bel-Air offers an indoor-outdoor retreat helmed by the father of California cuisine. Puck’s take on Wiener schnitzel reminds diners of his Austrian heritage. B, D (daily), L (M–Sa),

Chef Shigefumi Tachibe of Chaya (p. 68) is considered the inventor of tuna tartare. In tribute, his knife is on display at the Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History.

COURTESY PLAN CHECK

SPOTLIGHT

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Dining 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.236.9577; 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179 $$ Map I11, H16, M8 COMMISSARY Buzzworthy poolside eatery from Roy Choi serves farm-to-table dishes in a greenhouse-like setting. Emphasis on fruit- and vegetable-themed dishes and drinks makes it very vegetarian- and vegan-friendly, but you’ll find a few meaty dishes on the menu, as well. The Line Hotel, 2nd Floor Greenhouse, 3515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 213.368.3030 $$ Map J14 FIG RESTAURANT Dine on a seasonal menu of bistro fare; trendy charcuterie bar open at dinnertime. Br (Su), B, L (daily), D (Tu–Sa). Fairmont Miramar Hotel, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111 $$ Map L8

Pork Belly at The Church Key in West Hollywood

Br (Su), tea (F–Sa). 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air, 310.909.1644 $$$$ Map I10

Breweries/Gastropubs FATHER’S OFFICE Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Culver City: L (F–Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; Father’s Office 2, 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11 PUBLIC KITCHEN & BAR Refined menu offers elevated versions of classic dishes; bar serves cured meats, cheeses and fresh cocktails. Br (Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.8888 $$$ Map G13

British

GIRASOL Chef C.J. Jacobson, a former Top Chef contestant, forages for fresh, exotic ingredients in the Santa Monica Mountains to incorporate into an inventive California menu (e.g. hamachi with white fir and wild sorrel, whole crispy red snapper with chili-kumquat sauce). The restaurant, decorated like a giant sunflower (girasol in Spanish), is part of a Studio City dining renaissance. Br (Su), D (nightly). 11334 Moorpark St., Studio City, 818.924.2323 $$$ Map U19 HATFIELD’S Husband-and-wife chef team Quinn and Karen Hatfield combine their talents in the savory and sweet departments, respectively. Guests might dine on Quinn’s reinvented croque madame with yellowtail sashimi, prosciutto and quail egg, or Karen’s heavenly sugar-and-spice beignets. D (T-Su). 6703 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.935.2977 $$$ Map I13 HINOKI & THE BIRD Inside luxury residential tower the Century, chef Kuniko Yagi infuses Japanese and Southeast Asian flavors into such dishes as lobster rolls with green curry and Thai basil, and black cod scented with the smoke of the namesake hinoki wood. L (Tu-F), D (Tu–Sa). 10 W. Century Drive, Century City, 310.552.1200 $$$ Map J10

inspired dishes. Clam pozole is just one of the winners. Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 $$$ Map L8 SPAGO An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s recently remodeled flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like pan-roasted Spanish turbot with matsutake mushrooms, or handmade agnolotti with sweet white corn. Glimpse some of the 30,000 wine bottles on offer in a glass-ensconced “wine wall.” L (Tu–Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$ Map I11 TAR & ROSES Ex-Wilshire Restaurant chef Andrew Kirschner’s first restaurant focuses on small, rustic shareable plates cooked in his wood-burning oven, but with a few days’ notice he can also whip up large, lavish family-style suppers of Moroccan-spiced goat or standing rib rack. D (nightly). 602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.0700 $$$ Map L8 THE TASTING KITCHEN Foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine from culinary darling chef Casey Lane: small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9 TAVERN Chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9 WILSHIRE The woodsy, romantic deck is a coveted spot to hang out; the candle-laden bar inside is one of the Westside’s hottest. Market-driven California fare includes roasted half chicken with haricots verts, shallots and garlic confit. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 2454 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.586.1707 $$$ Map L8

O’BRIEN’S IRISH PUB Pub and restaurant with brews, whiskeys and spirits, Irish and American cuisine, outdoor patio and live entertainment. L, D (daily). 2941 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.4725 $ Map M8

INN OF THE SEVENTH RAY There’s a New Age feel here, but you don’t have to be a believer to fall in love with this place, which boasts candlelit tables scattered along a burbling creek. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 128 Old Topanga Canyon Road, Topanga, 310.455.1311 $$ Map B1

ROSE TREE COTTAGE Sweet, homey spot for English afternoon tea. Known for its freshly baked scones and gracious service from husband-and-wife owners. Seatings at 1, 2:30 and 4 pm. Adjacent gift shop. High tea (Tu, F–Su). 801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.3337 $$ Map R19

MAR’SEL Overlook a sparkling peninsula while dining on dishes with produce and herbs from chef’s on-site garden; dishes might include grilled organic chicken or slowbraised lamb shank. D (nightly), Br (Su). Terranea Resort, 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2836 $$$$ Map O13

MR. CHOW This L.A. edition of scene-y restaurants in New York and London offers Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M–F), D (nightly). Malibu: D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911; Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$ Map I11, K7

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Pub/restaurant with cozy dining rooms, fish and chips, high tea, gift shop. B, L, D (daily), high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

OCEAN SEAFOOD Vast and boisterous spot serves amazing array of traditional dishes, superfresh seafood, top-of-the-line dim sum. B, L, D (daily). 750 N. Hill St., Chinatown, 213.687.3088 $$ Map G17

California Cuisine

MAUDE Celebrity chef Curtis Stone, an Aussie with a strong classical background, debuts this intimate, 25-seat Beverly Hills restaurant named after his grandmother. Every month a different seasonal ingredient is showcased and artfully presented in a nine-course menu. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 $$$$ Map J11

208 RODEO This Mediterranean-influenced gem of a café sits above Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street at luxe Two Rodeo. Dishes include Tuscan market salad and seafood fettuccine. B, L, D (daily). Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$ Map J11

MILO & OLIVE The husband-and-wife team from Rustic Canyon is behind this tiny, casual pizzeria and bakery. Zoe Nathan’s desserts and pastries shouldn’t be missed. B (M-F), Br (Sa-Su), L, D (daily). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$ Map K9

A-FRAME Roy Choi, whose Kogi inspired a thousand food trucks, offers an eclectic comfort-food menu (beercan chicken, furikake kettle corn) with Korean influences. List of craft beers and signature cocktails are also on offer. L (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 12565 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.398.7700 $$ Map M10

ALMA Bay Area chef Ari Taymor adds fine dining to the revitalization of Broadway with his playful but sophisticated prix-fixe menus in an unpretentious space across from Ace Hotel. The ingredients, all freshly picked or foraged, are revealed in a parade of beautiful dishes that have garnered national attention. D (Tu-Sa). 952 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.244.1422 $$$$ Map I16

NAPA VALLEY GRILLE Wine country-inspired cuisine. Steaks and choice of tasty sides. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 1100 Glendon Ave., Westwood, 310.824.3322 $$ Map J10

CHAYA The original Chaya in Japan remains open after nearly 400 years, and Chaya’s popularity endures in Los Angeles, too. The Japanese-accented French/Italian menus are accomplished and innovative. L (M–F), D (nightly). 8741 Alden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8833;

PUMP Enchanted garden-themed restaurant and bar from restaurateur and Real Housewives of Beverly Hills star Lisa Vanderpump features a patio with 100-year-old olive trees and a menu created by Food Network Star finalist Penny Davidi. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8948 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.7867 $$$ Map I12 RUSTIC CANYON Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterranean-

Chinese

Eclectic/Fusion

ACABAR A sexy Moroccan setting paired with an eclectic menu from chef Octavio Becerra on the Sunset Strip. Enjoy shareable plates like caramelized cauliflower with a pair of sauces, shrimp toast with quail egg and spicy fish sauce, charred prawns with harissa, and lamb tagine, plus flaming cocktails from skilled mixologists. D (Tu-Sa). 1510 N. Stanley Ave., Hollywood, 323.876.1400 $$$ Map H13 BABOUCH MOROCCAN Authentic Moroccan cuisine served in a tentlike atmosphere. Live belly dancing. D (Tu-Su). 810 S. Gaffey St., San Pedro, 310.831.0246 $$ Map D3

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PRIME STEAKS. LEGENDARY SERVICE.

Fine Wine • Private Dining • Exceptional Menu

Dining BÄCO MERCAT Sizzling-hot chef Josef Centeno has drawn international praise for his uniquely inspired creations. The bäco, a flatbread sandwich, is his signature dish. Other selections on the diverse menu include spicy hamachi crudo. Br (Sa-Su), L (M-F), D (nightly). 408 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.8808 $$ Map I16 MAISON AKIRA Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with American Wagyu beef, miso sea bass and chawanmushi) in Pasadena’s playhouse district. Nine-course omakase available. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20 TROIS MEC The holy foodie trinity of Ludo Lefebvre (LudoBites) and Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook (Animal, Son of a Gun) open hot restaurant in a 24-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, five-course meal. New French bar-style spinoff, Petit Trois, is next door. D (M–F). 716 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, troismec.com $$$$ Map H13

French BOUCHON The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. One might begin with salmon rillettes followed by poulet rôti or a croque madame. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11 CAFÉ PINOT This glass box of a restaurant adjacent to Central Library offers romantic outdoor dining, skyline views—from bottom up—and contemporary Cal-French cuisine from the Patina group. L (M–F), D (nightly). 700 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.239.6500 $$$ Map H16 DELPHINE Off the W Hollywood Hotel & Residences’ chic lobby, Delphine establishes a laid-back ambiance with vintage photo murals and wood-barreled ceilings. Entrees include braised short ribs with roasted root vegetables. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1355 $$$ Map H13

SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills 435 S. LaCienega Blvd. 310-246-1501

Los Angeles 735 South Figueroa St. 213-553- 4566

Woodland Hills 6250 Canoga Ave. 818-703-7272

Burbank 3400 West Olive Ave. 818-238-0424

Costa Mesa 1641 W. Sunflower Ave. 714-444-4834

Anaheim 1895 South Harbor Blvd. 714-621-0101

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KENDALL’S BRASSERIE Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (think: moules frites). Br (Sa-Su), L (M-F), D (varies). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16 THE LITTLE DOOR For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace in one of four intimate, romantic dining areas. Additional new location is in Santa Monica. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210; 246 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.310.8064 $$$ Map I12, K8 MÉLISSE At Mélisse, among L.A.’s highest-rated restaurants, chef-owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with lobster bolognese with black truffles before superb game dishes. D (Tu–Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8 PATINA Walt Disney Concert Hall’s fine in-house restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu, such as wood pigeon with yams, celeriac and pear. D (Tu–Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H16 RÉPUBLIQUE In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio—and more recently, Campanile restaurant—fine dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (think escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele hud-

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Dining dling at communal tables. Café B, L (daily), Br (Sa-Su); bistro D (M-Sa).  624 S. La Brea Blvd., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$  Map I13

Italian BESTIA  Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District. The former executive chef at Angelini Osteria serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic, and a selection of house-cured meats. D (nightly).  2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$  Map east of J17 BUCA DI BEPPO  Heaping, family-style portions. Call for hours.  80 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.792.7272; 17500 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.995.3288; 1670 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.540.3246; 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.509.9463; additional locations at bucadibeppo.com $$  Map Q21, A1, M14, U20 CECCONI’S  This London-based restaurant caters to a well-heeled clientele who come to schmooze over bellinis and cicchetti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful agnolotti del plin with black truffle, and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well executed. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su).  8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$  Map I12 CULINA  A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and an impressive 25-foot chandelier. B (daily), L (M–Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su).  Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$  Map J12 DRAGO CENTRO  Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare—garganelli with pork sausage and fennel seeds, truffle-crusted Jidori chicken—and extensive wine list in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M–F), D (nightly).  525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$  Map H16 THE FACTORY KITCHEN  Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrialchic setting in the burgeoning Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, and hearty items like beef with onion-Nebbiolo sauce or porchetta contribute to a daily-changing menu. L (M–F), D (nightly).  1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$  Map J17 IL FORNAIO  Trattoria-style favorite. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Pasadena: Br (Su), L, D (daily).  301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 24 W. Union St., Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$  Map J11, L13, Q19 LA VECCHIA  Rustic Northern Italian in a laid-back bistro. More than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, ossobuco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily).  2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$  Map M8 MADDALENA  Dining among the casks at San Antonio Winery; fresh pastas, seafood, paninis and more served with European hospitality. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily).  737 Lamar St., L.A., 323.223.1401 $$  Map G17 MATTEO’S  An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures. Burrata campana salad, mussels in white wine, ossobuco Milanese. D (Tu–Su).  2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$  Map K10 OSTERIA MOZZA  Famed L.A.-based bread-maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants. Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertoire of these great transconti-

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Dining nental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 PAPARAZZI RISTORANTE Classic southern Italian pasta dishes, seafood and steaks served up in a contemporary-meets-Old Hollywood setting, just blocks from Los Angeles International Airport. D (M–Sa). Sheraton Gateway Hotel, 6101 Century Blvd., Westchester, 310.642.4820 $$ Map O11 PIZZERIA MOZZA The other half of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza is a more relaxed dining experience, and it’s far easier to get a table here than at its sibling, Osteria Mozza, next door. It features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates, and rustic daily specials. L, D (daily). 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101 $$ Map H13 RISTORANTE AL MARE Enjoy tastes of Italy and stellar beach and pier views from the rooftop deck of this three-story restaurant. L, D (daily). 250 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 310.458.4448 $$ Map L8

PARTY PLATTERS

RIVABELLA Michelin-starred chef Luigi Fineo helms this rustic Italian concept from Innovative Dining Group. L (M–F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 $$$$ Map I12

TO GO OR DELIVERY

SCARPETTA Scott Conant’s much-lauded NYC-based concept is replicated at the Montage Beverly Hills hotel. Conant is deservedly famous for dishes such as a simple, unbeatable spaghetti with tomato and basil. D (M-Sa). 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7970 $$$ Map I11

FRESH PRODUCE BAR EARLY DINING MENU AVAILABLE M-F ENTRÉES STARTING AT $9.99

SOLETO TRATTORIA & PIZZA BAR Contemporary Southern Italian fare in spacious, warehouse-chic environs. Antipasti and salads such as the Soleto vegetable salad with zucchini, asparagus, baby arugula, radicchio, peppers and crispy chickpeas precede build-your-own gourmet pizzas and pastas accented with sausage or shrimp. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 801 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.622.3255 $$ Map I16

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TERRONI Southern Italian cooking including excellent thin-crust pizza. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. Downtown: Br (Sa–Su), L (M-F), D (nightly). West Hollywood: Br (Sa-Su), L, D (daily). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 323.954.0300; 7605 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.954.0300 $$ Map I16, J13

Japanese ASANEBO Hidden in a minimall, but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi, seared toro in garlic cream and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu–F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1

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Fine French Cuisine with a Japanese Flair

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BENIHANA This restaurant sees teppanyaki chefs slicing and dicing at each table and grilling up simple fare such as tender steak and chicken, savory vegetables, and shrimp and lobster, which is delivered sizzling to diners’ plates. L, D (daily). 16226 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.788.7121; 38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.655.7311; 21327 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance, 310.316.7777; 1447 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1423 $$ Map G9, I12, M14, L8 KABUKI JAPANESE RESTAURANT Fun, casual atmosphere and more than 200 items from which to choose, including an extensive vegetarian menu and beverage program. Ideal place for a business meeting or family meal. 13 locations in Southern California. L, D (daily). 201 N. San Fernando Blvd., Burbank, 818.843.7999; 1545 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.464.6003; Howard Hughes Center, 6081 Center Drive, L.A., 310.641.5524; 88 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.568.9310; 3539 E. Foothill Blvd., Pasadena, 626.351.8963; 20940 Ventura Blvd.,

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Dining Woodland Hills, 818.704.8700 $$ Map T23, H14, N11, Q19, Q22, west of A1

Japanese Sushi Bar and Restaurant

KATANA Robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood on skewers. Stylish rooms, patio. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12

"One of the hottest new Japanese spots in LA" Zagat "A trendy izakaya/ sushi restaurant" LA Weekly

KATSUYA Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck. From signature cocktails to king crab cooked over the robata grill, Katsuya is never boring. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 MATSUHISA Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s more modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Monkfish liver pâté with caviar, and lamb chops with miso anticucho sauce are just a couple of his creations. L (M–F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12 NOBU The glitzy flagship of Nobu Matsuhisa attracts celebrities as well as serious foodies. An extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi includes many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. Sakes and omakase feasts result in soaring tabs, but the cuisine measures up. West Hollywood: D (nightly). Malibu: L, D (daily). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 ROBATA BAR Japanese grilling from the Sushi Roku, Katana and Boa team. Striking design by Dodd Mitchell. D (nightly). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 $$$ Map L8 SUGARFISH Kazunori Nozawa—aka the “Sushi Nazi,” chef/owner of Studio City’s famed former Sushi Nozawa—opens a cheery, casual spot offering preset menus. Tips are included, but prices are about half those at the original. L, D (daily). 47221/4 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.306.6300; 11640 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.820.4477; 600 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.627.3000; 1345 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.393.3338; 4799 Commons Way, Calabasas, 818.223.9966; 212 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.276.6900 $$ Map N9, K9, I16, L8, west of A1, J11

Sushi

302 Rosecrans Ave. Manhattan Beach, CA 90266 (310) 802-1131 @akatoramb

Izakaya

115 W Main St. Alhambra, CA 91891 (626) 943-7872

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FIND YOURSELF IN SPAIN

SUSHI AKATORA Restaurateur Michael Cardenas is behind this friendly new north Manhattan Beach spot, which serves sushi and modern izakaya cuisine with glimpses of ocean. L (M-F), D (nightly). 302 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.802.1131 $$ Map L13 SUSHI ROKU Nouvelle Japanese, sleek décor. Creative menu includes albacore tacos, salmon sashimi with black truffles. L.A.: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Santa Monica and Pasadena: L, D (daily). 8445 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.6767; 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map I12, L8, Q19 URASAWA If you’re serious about sushi, make a date to sit at Urasawa’s bar. Here you’ll be treated to an incredible omakase dinner—don’t even ask about price—that features the freshest, most artfully presented sushi, sashimi and shabu-shabu dishes. Reservation required. D (Tu–Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11

Mediterranean A.O.C. Mediterranean-inspired pioneer of two L.A. culinary trends: the small-plates format and the wine bar. Chef-owner Suzanne Goin offers addictive bacon-

140 Pine Ave • Downtown Long Beach • 951 778 0611 • CafeSevilla.com

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Dining wrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates and an excellent selection of cheeses and cured meats from a charcuterie bar. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 $$ Map I12 CLEO The SBE group’s noisy mezze bar is an unquestionable high point of the Hollywood dining scene. Executive chef Daniel Elmaleh’s eastern and southern Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of pork belly and lamb, and wood-burned flatbreads. Cocktails are expensive but irresistible. D (nightly). The Redbury, 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 $$$ Map H14 FIG & OLIVE New York-based restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil. Don’t miss the truffle mushroom croquette with truffle olive oil aioli. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8490 Melrose Place, L.A., 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, servers in T-shirts and newsboy caps serve seasonal Cal-Med small plates and pizzas to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s most lively patio. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9 LUCQUES Chef-owner Suzanne Goin delivers the next generation of California cuisine, which includes dishes such as grilled club steak for two with potatoes parisienne. Nowhere do vegetables taste as good! L (Tu– Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13

Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery

SONOMA WINE GARDEN Brunch and happy hour crowds gather at this alfresco restaurant on the third floor of Santa Monica Place. Wine and cheese plates and pizzas from the wood-burning oven are perfect for grazing over wine from the extensive list. Br (Sa, Su), L (M-F), D (nightly). 395 Santa Monica Place, Suite 300, Santa Monica, 424.214.4560 $$ Map L8

Mexican/Latin PETTY CASH TAQUERÍA Chef Walter Manzke, previously known for his restrained French fare at Bastide and Church & State, delivers in-your-face Mexican street food using local, seasonal ingredients and refined technique. Winning dishes include pig ear nachos with crema poblana topped with a soft egg, and savory churros, oozing cheese and served with a butternut squash mole dip. L (Su), D (nightly). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300 $$ Map I13

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips. Open for breakfast weekends at 8am, Fabulous happy hour Mon–Fri 4-7pm. Traditional Afternoon Tea is served Mon-Sat 11:30am-4:30pm. Karaoke Sundays at 9pm. Heated patio. Quiz shows every Wednesday. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more.

RIVERA Chef John Sedlar showcases his flair for pan-Latin flavors and attention to detail; consider the house-made nixtamal tortillas inlaid with edible flowers, or plates with intricate designs stenciled in spices. A pioneer of the craft cocktail movement, Rivera has an unbeatable menu of tequila tipples. L (M–F), D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I16

Pan-Asian CRUSTACEAN A glass-covered koi-filled stream meanders under the bar at this Cal-Vietnamese eatery, and diners indulge in items from a “secret kitchen” in which only the owners’ family members and select longtime staff members are allowed. The garlic noodles are a signature. L (M–F), D (nightly). 9646 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 $$$ Map I11

New Location Now Open in Studio City 12969 Ventura Blvd. (818) 990-9055

116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

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WP24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include Singapore-style chili prawns and steamed bao filled with pork belly. Restaurant/lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room D (M-Sa); Nest D (nightly). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

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Dining MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB At this on-the-waterfront eatery—the views are pure Malibu—starters like ahi tartare, lobster cocktail and caviar service are followed by fresh fish, whole Maine lobster or expertly prepared steaks. Sides like lobster mashed potatoes and Alaskan king crab-black truffle gnocchi are legendary. 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 $$$$ Map west of K7 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S Classy wood, glass and brass space; seafood any way you like it. Happy hour. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 400 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.629.1929; 2101 Rosecrans Ave., El Segundo, 310.416.1123 $$ Map H16, L13

Kobe beef corn dogs at Sushi Akatora in Manhattan Beach

Quick Bites PINK’S HOT DOGS There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot dog stand, open since 1939, which serves 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 $ Map I13 WURSTKÜCHE Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, alligator and pork andouille. Open late. L, D (daily). 800 E. 3rd St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 213.687.4444 $ Map I17, M9

Seafood CHART HOUSE Enjoy seafood and chophouse fare in seaside settings. In addition to creative dishes such as a crab, avocado and mango stack appetizer are perennial favorites including signature prime rib and hot chocolate lava cake. L (call for hours), D (nightly). 13950 Panay Way, Marina del Rey, 310.822.4144; 231 Yacht Club Way, Redondo Beach, 310.372.3464 $$ Map N9, M13 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE David LeFevre, a Water Grill alum, loads his menu with East Coast inspirations as well as some innovative dishes. Among the old-school small plates in this tiny, charming restaurant are New England–style clam chowder with Nueske’s bacon and Maryland blue crab cakes with house-made pickles and remoulade. L, D (daily). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 $$$ Map L13 GLADSTONE’S MALIBU One of SoCal’s biggest hits with a million visitors each year. Dramatic ocean views. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.454.3474 $$ Map west of K7 THE HUNGRY CAT East Coast fare in hip little spots. Dine on dishes such as crab cakes or chilled crab legs and you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the halfpound. Hollywood: Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). Santa Monica: Br (Sa-Su), D (nightly). Sunset+Vine, 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7 LITTLEFORK While many of L.A.’s restaurants look to the Far East for inspiration, executive chef Jason Travi zeroed in on the East Coast, drawing on his Boston roots and utilizing his favorite New England purveyors. Signature seafood dishes include clam chowder and fresh daily oysters with cider mignonette, and nonseafood items include the favorite maple eggs. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 1600 Wilcox Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.3675 $$$ Map H14

PROVIDENCE Chef-owner Michael Cimarusti transforms seafood from the world’s most pristine waters into oft-changing dishes such as kampachi with miso, buttermilk and green grapes, and striped bass with bacon and Bordelaise sauce. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14 SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meatloving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp toast sandwiches in a nautically themed space. L (M–F), D (nightly). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

Spanish THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to the eminently stylish SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic fare to cutting-edge culinary creations. Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable 20-plus-course prix-fixe menu. Dining room D (nightly); Saam D (Th-Sa). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16 CAFE SEVILLA Authentic Spanish fare and tapas bar on a bustling strip in downtown Long Beach. Dinner show on Saturdays; nightclub upstairs. D (nightly). 140 Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.1111 $$ Map N16 MANCHEGO A traditional Spanish eatery in contemporary Santa Monica, offering tapas like tortilla española, jamón ibérico, octopus, lamb empanadas and imported Spanish cheeses, plus a curated selection of Spanish wines. Br (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 2518 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.450.3900 $$ Map M8 SMOKE.OIL.SALT Catalan and Valencian cuisine from chef Perfecto Rocher and an impressive list of Spanish wines served in a lively location on Melrose. D (Tu-Su). 7274 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.930.7900, $$ Map I13

Steak ARROYO CHOPHOUSE Exclusively USDA Prime at handsome spot from the Smith Brothers. D (nightly). 536 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.577.7463 $$$$ Map R20 BOA Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily). West Hollywood: L (M–F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H12 FOGO DE CHÃO The city’s best churrascaria—those Brazilian steakhouse-barbecue restaurants—is this restaurant with muraled walls and soaring ceilings. After a trip to a massive salad-appetizer bar, guests are treated to an endless procession of meats carved right onto their plates. L (M–F), D (nightly). 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.289.7755 $$$ Map J12

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where the maître d’ juggles Hollywood heavyweights, each demanding his or her favorite table for deal-making lunches. Polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and chicken pot pies in a dining room with classic good looks. Beverly Hills: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Hollywood and Westlake Village: L, D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; The Grill on Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.856.5530; 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, H13, north of A10 LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB A Restaurant Row classic. Prime rib, to-die-for creamed corn and spinach served with showmanship from tableside carts. D (nightly). 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.2827 $$$ Map I12 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. New Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11 MORTON’S Clubby ambiance, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. Beverly Hills, Woodland Hills: D (nightly). Downtown, Burbank: L (M–F), D (nightly). 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.1501; 6250 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.703.7272; 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; The Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I11, West of A1, I16, T20 NICK & STEF’S A modern interpretation of the classic American steakhouse, Nick & Stef’s offers architecturally exciting dining rooms and a wraparound patio lounge that’s a favorite of downtown workers waiting out traffic. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glass-encased aging chamber. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 OLIVER’S PRIME A contemporary steakhouse with global inspirations meets the timeless American steakhouse at Oliver’s, complete with handcrafted cocktails and a hip lounge scene. B, L, D (daily). The Grafton on Sunset, 8462 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.491.9003 $$$$ Map H12 THE STINKING ROSE “We season our garlic with food,” from Gartini cocktail to garlic ice cream. 40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank, Vladimir’s Garlic “Stakes” menu with six steak options. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12

Thai JITLADA THAI The wait is long, but the southern Thai specialties are authentic and exceptional. L, D (TuSu). 52331/2 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake 323.667.9809 $$ Map W22 NATALEE THAI Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern décor. Among entrees are Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chili) and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Cocomero & pomoderi Little gem Caesar salad Burrata cheese and heirloom tomatoes

PAPARAZZI RISTORANTE Enjoy elegant, old Hollywood ambiance and world-class cuisine at Paparazzi Ristoranti, a hidden gem in the heart of the city and one of Gayot’s picks for the best Italian restaurants in L.A. Award-winning executive chef Ressul Rassallat, who was selected by the American Culinary Federation to compete for the prestigious title of Western Regional Chef of the Year, inspires the senses with simple, classic Italian dishes that nod to southern Italy and incorporate surprising culinary twists. Savor fresh pastas in authentic sauces, as well as artistically prepared seafood, poultry and top-notch steaks. House specialties include merluzzo cileno al pistachio, a pistachio-crusted Mediterranean sea bass with clams, roasted tomato-saffron risotto, English pea emulsion, Fiesole artichokes and pea shoots (pictured here). Other favorites include the hearty il cioppino dei Paparazzi, an enticing combination of seafood in a fennel pomodoro broth served with classic garlic ciabatta. Gather with friends in the private dining room, which accommodates up to 40 people and is outfitted with audio-visual equipment, and enjoy chef Rassallat’s robustly flavored creations. Your taste buds will thank you. D (M–Sa).

Entrees Merluzzo cileno al pistacchio Regatoni alla bolognese Garganelli con salsiccia Lasagna al brasato Il cioppino dei Paparazzi Filetto alla griglia La bistecca del vaccaro Ossobuco Organic lamb chops Pan-seared branzino al salmoriglio Sicilian pistachio-crusted Alaskan halibut Desserts Crema fredda al limoncello Profiteroles Tiramisu

6101 W. Century Blvd., Westchester

310.642.4820 sheratonlax.com/paparazzi

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RESTAURANTS City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine. BEVERLY HILLS

CULVER CITY A-FRAME (Eclectic)......................................................68

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD RESTAURANT ROW

SOUTH BAY/LONG BEACH

208 RODEO (California) ...........................................68 THE BAZAAR (Spanish)........................................... 74

FATHER’S OFFICE 2 (Brew/Pub) .....................68

BENIHANA (Japanese)................................................ 71

BENIHANA (Japanese)................................................ 71

BOUCHON (French).....................................................69 CAULFIELD’S (American) .......................................66 CRUSTACEAN (Pan-Asian)..................................... 73 CHAYA (California) .........................................................68

NATALEE THAI (Thai) ............................................. 74

FIG & OLIVE (Mediterranean) ................................. 73 FOGO DE CHAO (Steak) ........................................ 74

DOWNTOWN ALMA (California) ............................................................68

LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB (Steak) ............... 74 MATSUHISA (Japanese) ............................................ 72 MORTON’S (Steak)...................................................... 74

BABOUCH MOROCCAN (Eclectic) ................68

BUCA DI BEPPO (Italian) ......................................70 CAFE SEVILLA (Spanish) ....................................... 74 CHART HOUSE (Seafood) ...................................... 74 CLAIM JUMPER (American)..................................66

BÄCO MERCAT (Eclectic) .......................................69

NOBU (Japanese) ............................................................ 72

FISHING WITH DYNAMITE (Seafood) ........ 74

CULINA (Italian) .............................................................70

BESTIA (Italian) ..............................................................70

THE STINKING ROSE (Steak) ........................... 74

IL FORNAIO (Italian) .................................................70

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak) ............ 74

CAFÉ PINOT (French)................................................69

IL FORNAIO (Italian) .................................................70

CHAYA (California) .........................................................68

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak) ............... 74

COMMISSARY (California) ......................................68

MAUDE (California) ......................................................68

DRAGO CENTRO (Italian).....................................70

MR. CHOW (Chinese)..................................................68 NATALEE THAI (Thai) ............................................. 74

FACTORY KITCHEN (Italian) .............................70 KATSUYA (Japanese)................................................... 72 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE (French) .................69

SCARPETTA (Italian) .................................................. 71 SPAGO (California).........................................................68

MAR’SEL (California) ...................................................68

MALIBU GLADSTONE’S MALIBU (Seafood) ............... 74 INN OF THE SEVENTH RAY (California)...68 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB (Seafood) ........... 74 MR. CHOW (Chinese)..................................................68 NOBU MALIBU (Japanese) ................................... 712

M.B. POST (American)................................................66 MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood) ...... 74 SALT CREEK GRILLE (American) ....................66 SUSHI AKATORA (Japanese) .............................. 72 THE STRAND HOUSE (American)...................66

SUGARFISH (Japanese) ............................................ 72

VALLEY

MADDALENA (Italian) ..............................................70 MCCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood) ...... 74

MARINA DEL REY

ASANEBO (Japanese) .................................................. 71

SUGARFISH (Japanese) ............................................ 72

MORTON’S (Steak)...................................................... 74

CHART HOUSE (Seafood) ...................................... 74

BENIHANA (Japanese)................................................ 71

URASAWA (Japanese)................................................ 72

NICK & STEF’S (Steak) ............................................ 74

WOLFGANG PUCK (American) .........................68

NOÉ (American) ................................................................66

BEVERLY BOULEVARD

PATINA (French) .............................................................69

3RD STREET

PLAN CHECK (American)........................................66

IL FORNAIO (Italian) .................................................70

JOAN’S ON THIRD (American) ..........................66

RIVERA (Latin)................................................................ 73

KABUKI (Japanese) ........................................................ 71

KABUKI (Japanese) ........................................................ 71

SUGARFISH (Japanese) ............................................ 72

KATSUYA (Japanese)................................................... 72

MORTON’S (Steak)...................................................... 74

SOLETO (Italian) ............................................................. 71

MAISON AKIRA (Eclectic)......................................69

UMAMI BURGER (American)................................66

OCEAN SEAFOOD (Chinese)..............................68

MELROSE AVENUE A.O.C. (Mediterranean) ................................................. 72 HATFIELD’S (California) ...........................................68

TERRONI (Italian) .......................................................... 71

INK. (American).................................................................66

WP24 (Pan-Asian)........................................................... 73

JAR (American) .................................................................66

WURSTKÜCHE (Quick Bites) ................................. 74

JOAN’S ON THIRD (American) ..........................66

SUGARFISH (Japanese) ............................................ 72

PASADENA ARROYO CHOPHOUSE (Steak) ...................... 74 BUCA DI BEPPO (Italian) ......................................70

BUCA DI BEPPO (Italian) ......................................70 CLAIM JUMPER (American)..................................66 GIRASOL (California)...................................................68 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak) ............ 74

ROSE TREE COTTAGE (British) ......................68 SECO (American) .............................................................66 SUSHI ROKU (Japanese) .......................................... 72

SANTA MONICA

VENICE CHAYA (California) .........................................................68 GJELINA (Mediterranean).......................................... 73

THE LITTLE DOOR (French)................................69

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE

BENIHANA (Japanese)................................................ 71

THE TASTING KITCHEN (California).............68

LUCQUES (Mediterranean) ....................................... 73

ACABAR (Eclectic) ........................................................68

FATHER’S OFFICE (Brew/Pub) ..........................68

WURSTKÜCHE (Quick Bites) ................................. 74

CLEO (Mediterranean) ................................................... 73

FIG RESTAURANT (California) ...........................68

DELPHINE (French) .....................................................69

THE HUNGRY CAT (Seafood) ............................. 74

WEST HOLLYWOOD

THE GRILL ON HOLLYWOOD (Steak) ..... 74

LA VECCHIA (Italian) ................................................70

BOA (Steak)........................................................................ 74

OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian)....................................70 PETTY CASH TAQUERIA (Mexican) ............ 73 PIZZERIA MOZZA (Italian)................................... 71 PROVIDENCE (Seafood) .......................................... 74

THE HUNGRY CAT (Seafood) ............................. 74 JITLADA THAI (Thai) ............................................... 74

SON OF A GUN (Seafood)...................................... 74

KABUKI (Japanese) ........................................................ 71

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese) .......................................... 72

KATSUYA (Japanese)................................................... 72

THE LITTLE DOOR (French)................................69 MANCHEGO (Spanish) .............................................. 74 MÉLISSE (French) ..........................................................69 MILO & OLIVE (California) ......................................68 O’BRIEN’S IRISH PUB (British)........................68

CECCONI’S (Italian)....................................................70 THE CHURCH KEY (American)...........................66 KATANA (Japanese)...................................................... 72 OLIVER’S PRIME (Steak)....................................... 74

R+D KITCHEN (American) ......................................66

PUMP (California) ............................................................68

BRENTWOOD

MUSSO & FRANK GRILL (American) ...........66

RISTORANTE AL MARE (Italian) .................... 71

RIVABELLA (Italian).................................................... 71

KATSUYA (Japanese)................................................... 72

PUBLIC KITCHEN + BAR (Brew/Pub) ..........68

ROBATA BAR (Japanese) ........................................ 72

SMOKE.OIL.SALT (Spanish) ................................ 74

TROIS MEC (Eclectic) .................................................69

RUSTIC CANYON (California) .............................68

TERRONI (Italian) .......................................................... 71

LITTLEFORK (Seafood) ............................................ 74

SUGARFISH (Japanese) ............................................ 72 TAVERN (California)......................................................68

CENTURY CITY

UMAMI BURGER (American)................................66

SEASONS 52 (American) .........................................66 SONOMA WINE GARDEN (Mediterranean) ... 73

LA BREA/MID-CITY ANIMAL (American)......................................................66

SUGARFISH (Japanese) ............................................ 72 SUSHI ROKU (Japanese) .......................................... 72 TAR & ROSES (California)........................................68

WESTSIDE KABUKI (Japanese) ........................................................ 71 MATTEO’S (Italian) ......................................................70

CRAFT (American) .........................................................66

PINK’S HOT DOGS (Quick Bites) ....................... 74

TRUXTON’S BISTRO (American) .....................66

NAPA VALLEY GRILL (California)...................68

HINOKI & THE BIRD (California).......................68

PLAN CHECK (American)........................................66

WILSHIRE (California) ................................................68

PAPARAZZI (Italian) ................................................... 71

SEASONS 52 (American) .........................................66

RÉPUBLIQUE (French) .............................................69

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British) ...................68

PLAN CHECK (American)........................................66

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LA DINING

SONOMA WINE GARDEN

Sonoma Wine Garden showcases bold Mediterranean flavors with a California touch. Its chefs source produce at local farmers markets to ensure the menu reflects the freshest ingredients. With almost 50 by-the-glass offerings, the extensive wine list complements a diverse menu of small plates. The main dining room features a mammoth chandelier made with wine bottles, a floor-to-ceiling wine cellar and walls paneled with genuine wine cases. A picture window provides views of the Pacific Ocean, and the deck affords an excellent view of the restaurant’s bar and gardens. Sample some of the world’s finest wines by the ounce or glass via the 16-bottle Enomatic wine-dispensing machine. Happy hour Monday through Friday, noon-7 p.m. Br (Sa-Su), L (M-F), D (nightly).

395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica 424.214.4560 sonomawinegardensantamonica.com

BOUCHON BISTRO Bouchon Beverly Hills, in the heart of the Beverly Hills Business Triangle, is adjacent to Beverly Canon Gardens and the Montage Hotel, above Bar Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery. Designed by Adam D. Tihany, this casual bistro features a classic mosaic floor, pewter bar, antique light fixtures and hand-painted murals by renowned French artist Paulin Paris. There is a French bistro menu and one of the most extensive raw bars in the city. Classics such as steak frites and the roast chicken favored by Chef Keller are fixtures on the menu. Seasonally inspired dishes, including trout almondine, boudin blanc and moules frites, change throughout the year. The wine list features regional and French selections; the seasonal Vin de Carafe program highlights local winemakers. B (Sa-Su), L (M-F), D (nightly). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills 310.271.9910 bouchonbistro.com

ROSE TREE COTTAGE

Hong Kong has the Peninsula hotel. London, Claridge’s. And L.A.’s premier afternoon tea spot is Rose Tree Cottage. Enjoy a traditional English-style afternoon tea accompanied by mouth-watering finger sandwiches and freshly baked scones served with Devon cream and preserves at this charming tearoom. Dining on fine Royal Crown Derby and Royal Doulton bone china, guests sit in an indoor tearoom or an outdoor safari-themed pavilion amid a garden. Surrounded by gift items sourced from England, the sounds of clinking teacups and soft music, the scents of fresh roses and baked goods, you will think you’re in another time and place far, far away. Reservations taken by telephone only. Tea served at 1:00, 2:30 and 4:00 (Tu–Su).

801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena 626.793.3337 rosetreecottage.com SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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LA DINING

IL FORNAIO

Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include house-made pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto and rotisserie meats. Fresh pastas are made daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions. Repeat recipient of The Wine Spectator’s “Award of Excellence.”

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 ilfornaio.com

RISTORANTE AL MARE Savor fresh and authentic handmade pastas, thin crust pizzas and Italian seafood classics such as cioppino and branzino at Ristorante al Mare, a new Italian eatery from the team behind Trastevere and La Piazza at the Grove. Located on the Santa Monica Pier, the three-story restaurant features a rooftop dining deck and full bar with unparalleled views of the Pacific Ocean and Malibu coastline (a perfect spot to enjoy happy hour, 4:30-7:30 daily). The restaurant also boasts second floor balcony terraces and a private dining room, as well as firstfloor decks overlooking the bustling boardwalk and beautiful Santa Monica beaches. Find live music on the rooftop every weekend and some Fridays. L, D (daily).

250 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica 310.458.4448 ristorantealmare.com

THE STINKING ROSE

Located on Beverly Hills’ famed Restaurant Row, The Stinking Rose has made a name for itself, and its popularity is evident—people fill the unique dining rooms to partake of the tasty food enhanced by the fragrant bulb. Specialties include two pounds of whole, garlic-roasted Dungeness crab in a secret garlic sauce and the ever-popular forty-clove garlic chicken. “The Best Steak I Ever Tasted was in a Garlic Restaurant—The Stinking Rose in Beverly Hills.”—Vladimir. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd. (near Wilshire Blvd.), Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 thestinkingrose.com SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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LA DINING

SEASONS 52

Celebrate what’s good now. This casually sophisticated grill and wine bar offers seasonally inspired cuisine and an award-winning international wine list, with 52 wines available by the glass. Market-fresh ingredients are prepared with rustic cooking techniques and presented in appropriate serving sizes, resulting in dishes that are rich in flavor but light in calories. Winter menu highlights include New Zealand venison chop with venison ragout, braised short rib with aged cheddar flatbread, wood-grilled pork tenderloin with sweet potato mash, and eggnog mini indulgences. Enjoy live music in the piano lounge every evening beginning at 6 p.m. L, D (daily).

1501 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica 310.451.1152 seasons52.com

MATTEO’S RESTAURANT Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining its status as the epitome of classic cool. Now in its 50th year, Matteo’s continues to offer unique seasonal fare in a homey and hip setting. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu features sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials. Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7-and-under bar menu. Gluten-free and vegetarian options also available. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521 matteosla.com

BENIHANA BEVERLY HILLS   Benihana is a landmark on Beverly Hills’ Restaurant Row. At the heart of the Benihana experience lies the teppanyaki grill, where masterful chefs expertly prepare savory filet mignon, tender chicken breasts, succulent shrimp, cold-water lobster tail and Benihana’s signature hibachi chicken rice, all cooked to order in front of guests. Side orders include tempura, nigiri, sashimi and an assortment of fresh and colorful sushi rolls. Try one of the delicious specialty cocktails served in collectible mugs, Benihana’s famous hot sake or a passion fruit lemonade. Kids 12 and under can select from the Kabuki Kids menu. Benihana chefs are as well-known for their culinary theatrics as they are for their outstanding cooking. Celebrate your next special occasion at Benihana and take home a souvenir photo to commemorate the day. L, D (daily). 38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 323.655.7311 benihana.com SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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Entertainment Guidelines Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Special Events ....................81 Studio Tours .......................84 Theater .................................81 Studio Tapings...................85 Music + Dance................... 82 Museums ...........................85 Sports................................... 82 Shopping Destinations ... 87 Attractions ......................... 82 Tours + Transport.............88

Special Events

HOLIDAY ICE RINK PERSHING SQUARE Through Jan. 19 A pristine ice skating rink materializes in the heart of downtown L.A. every holiday season, in Pershing Square. Hours vary; visit website for details. $9, skate rental $3. 532 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.624.4289, holidayicerinkdowntownla.com Map I16 ICE AT SANTA MONICA Through Jan. 19 Holiday spirit by the beach. 8,000-square-foot outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica. M-Th 2–10 pm, F 2 pmmidnight, Sa 11 am-midnight, Su 11 am-10 pm. Admission, including skate rental, $15. 1324 5th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1199 Map L8

GOLDEN STATE OF COCKTAILS Jan. 26-29 Trade show and festival celebrating the art of the cocktail. Consumer events include a dinner series and bar crawls in Hollywood and the Westside. See website for ticket prices, hours and additional locations. Los Angeles Athletic Club, 431 W. 7th St., downtown, goldenstateofcocktails.com Map I16

CHILL Jan. 1-4, 8-11 The Queen Mary ocean liner is filled with 2 million pounds of ice for skating and tubing. Walk among 2.5-story-tall ice sculptures at a frigid 9 degrees. Hours vary; visit queenmary.com/chill for details. $31.99-$47.99. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16

ART LOS ANGELES CONTEMPORARY Jan. 30-Feb. 1 Contemporary art fair presents international blue-chip and emerging galleries, with a focus on L.A. galleries. Opening-night reception Jan. 29; Jan. 30-31 11 am-7 pm; Feb. 1 until 6 pm. See artlosangelesfair.com for schedule and tickets. The Barker Hangar, 3021 Airport Ave., Santa Monica, 323.851.7530, Map L9

TOURNAMENT OF ROSES Through Jan. 3 Rose Parade (Jan. 1, 8 am), Rose Bowl (Jan. 1, 1:30 pm) and post-parade float viewing. Free curbside viewing of parade on first-come, first-served basis; grandstand seats $48-$68 on sharpseating.com. Rose Bowl tickets start at $150 plus fees. Float viewing $10. Rose Parade: Orange Grove, Colorado and Sierra Madre boulevards, Pasadena, 626.795.4171; Rose Bowl Stadium: 1001 Rose Bowl Drive, Pasadena, 213.365.3675 Map Q18

HOLLYWOOD COSTUME All month Multimedia exhibition includes more than 150 costumes from movies both classic and recent, including such favorites as The Hunger Games and The Wizard of Oz. Presented by the Victoria and Albert Museum, London and the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences. M, T, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $10$20. Wilshire May Company building, 6067 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.247.3049 Map J12

THE CONTENDERS Jan. 5-8, 13 The Hammer Museum collaborates with New York’s MoMA for this film series that screens the year’s best films, followed by talks by filmmakers and actors. Highlights include indie vampire movie A Girl Walks Home Alone at Night and Richard Linklater’s Boyhood. See website for screening schedule. $15, $10 for Hammer Plus members. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.443.7000, hammer.ucla.edu Map J10

Theater

L.A. ART SHOW Jan. 15-18 20th annual art fair features both modern and traditional artwork exhibited by more than 120 galleries from around the world. Opening-night premiere party Jan. 14 8-11 pm; Jan. 15-17 11 am-7 pm; Jan. 18 until 5 pm. $20-$40. Los Angeles Convention Center, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 561.822.5440 Map I15

BLITHE SPIRIT Through Jan. 18 Theater legend Angela Lansbury stars in this comedy by playwright Noël Coward. Following sold-out runs on Broadway and London’s West End, she reprises her Tony Award-winning role of Madame Arcati, a medium who channels a novelist’s dead wife. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

LOS ANGELES JEWELRY, ANTIQUE & DESIGN SHOW Jan. 15-18 The sister show to the L.A. Art Show, this premier antiques expo debuted last year, showcasing 100 galleries and attracting A-list collectors like Barbra Streisand and Leonardo DiCaprio. Shop for one-of-a-kind gems, designer jewelry, furnishings and more. The show will also feature special exhibits, tours and lectures. Opening-night private preview party by invitation only Jan. 14; Jan. 15-17 11 am-7 pm; Jan. 18 until 5 pm. $20. Los Angeles Convention Center, South Hall H, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 561.822.5440 Map I15

DAME EDNA’S GLORIOUS GOODBYE Opening Jan. 24 Australian entertainer Barry Humphries takes his hilarious and satirical alter ego, Dame Edna, for one last spin—he created the character back in 1956—during this critically acclaimed farewell tour. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

PHOTO L.A. Jan. 16-18 24th edition of this international photography fair features photographic art ranging from 19th century works to contemporary and innovative photography-based art. Catch the provided shuttle to the nearby L.A. Art Show for the complete artistic experience. Opening-night benefit gala Jan. 15; Jan. 16-17 11 am-7 pm; Jan. 18 until 6 pm. See photola.com for tickets. The Reef/L.A. Mart, 1933 Broadway, downtown, 323.965.1000 Map J15

JACK LEMMON RETURNS Opening Jan. 7 Chris Lemmon, actor and son of Academy Award-winning actor Jack Lemmon (Some Like It Hot, The Odd Couple), recreates his father’s magic in a heartfelt one-man show. The Broad Stage, 1310 11th St., Santa Monica, 310.434.3200 Map L8

CHAVEZ RAVINE Opening Jan. 27 Theater troupe Culture Clash—Richard Montoya, Ric Salinas and Herbert Siguenza—revisits its beloved play, Chavez Ravine, 12 years after its world premiere in L.A., with new insights into the ever-changing landscape of the City of Angels. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 WICKED Continuing The award-winning musical returns to L.A. with three months of performances. Learn the untold story of the witches of Oz, the “wicked” Elphaba and good witch Glinda, in this smash-hit prequel to The Wizard of Oz. Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13

Land of Discovery 20 miles north of downtown, in the San Fernando Valley’s Hansen Dam Recreation Center, the brand-new Discovery Cube Los Angeles lets visitors climb a rock wall, fly above California in a simulated helicopter and descend through the Earth in an “aquavator.” Kids may think they’re just having a blast while exploring these interactive, hightech exhibits, but shh: They’re learning, too. The sister site to Discovery Cube Orange County (formerly known as the Discovery Science Center), DCLA aims to enhance science, technology, engineering and math proficiency and and to teach healthy living and environmental stewardship. With 71,000 square feet of exhibit- and display-filled indoor and outdoor space, the science center offers plenty of opportunities for hands-on learning— and fun. See listing p. 85

Fact: L.A. sits in one of the world’s 35 biodiversity hot spots. Learn all about it at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County’s award-winning Nature Lab. p. 87

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Attractions + Museums Music + Dance  NOKIA THEATRE L.A. LIVE   Jan. 7 People’s Choice Awards 2015. Jan. 17 The O’Jays. Jan. 24 The Godfather. Jan. 28 So You Think You Can Dance. Jan. 29 Jackie Evancho. 777 Chick Hearn Court, downtown, 213.763.6020 Map I15  STAPLES CENTER  Jan. 23 Eric Church. Jan. 24 Calibash, with performances by Pitbull, Don Omar, Carlos Vives and others. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15   ALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL  Jan. 9-11 Los Angeles W Philharmonic, conductor Michael Tilson Thomas, director James Darrah, Los Angeles Master Chorale. Jan. 11 Organist Anthony Newman. Jan. 13 L.A. Phil New Music Group, conductor John Adams, countertenor Nathan Medley. Jan. 14 Violinist Gidon Kremer, pianist Daniil Trifonov. Jan. 16-18 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Andrey Boreyko, violinist Nikolaj Znaider. Jan. 18 The Colburn Orchestra, conductor Sir Neville Marriner, violinist Blake Pouliot. Jan. 20 Pianist Emanuel Ax and various musicians. Jan. 21 Violinist Itzhak Perlman, pianist Rohan De Silva. Jan. 22-24 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Miguel Harth-Bedoya, pianist Emanuel Ax. Jan. 24 USC Thornton Symphony, conductor Carl St.Clair, violinist Glenn Dicterow. Jan. 30-Feb. 1 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Herbert Blomstedt, pianist Richard Goode. Jan. 31-Feb. 1 Los Angeles Master Chorale. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

Sports   TAPLES CENTER  Jan. 2 Los Angeles Lakers vs. MemS phis. Jan. 3 Los Angeles Kings vs. Nashville; Los Angeles Clippers vs. Philadelphia. Jan. 4 Lakers vs. Indiana. Jan. 5 Clippers vs. Atlanta. Jan. 7 Clippers vs. Lakers. Jan. 8 Kings vs. New York Rangers. Jan. 9 Lakers vs. Orlando. Jan. 10 Clippers vs. Dallas; Kings vs. Winnipeg. Jan. 11 Clippers vs. Miami; Lakers vs. Portland. Jan. 12 Kings vs. Toronto. Jan. 13 Lakers vs. Miami. Jan. 14 Kings vs. New Jersey. Jan. 15 Lakers vs. Cleveland. Jan. 16 Clippers vs. Cleveland. Jan. 17 Kings vs. Anaheim. Jan. 19 Clippers vs. Boston; Kings vs. Calgary. Jan. 22 Clippers vs. Brooklyn. Jan. 25 Lakers vs. Houston. Jan. 26 Clippers vs. Denver. Jan. 27 Lakers vs. Washington. Jan. 28 Kings vs. Chicago. Jan. 29 Lakers vs. Chicago. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

Attractions  AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC  Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Pet the sharks at Shark Lagoon; other exhibits include Lorikeet Forest, Turtle Vision 4D, June Keyes Penguin Habitat. Daily 9 am-6 pm except Christmas and during the Grand Prix of Long Beach. $14.95–$28.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 CATALINA EXPRESS  Year-round boat service to Catalina Island; daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended. Call for hours. San Pedro, Long Beach: $29.50–$37.25 one-way, $59–$74.50 round-trip; Dana Point: $30.50–$38.25 one-way, $61–$76.50 round-trip; under 2 $2.50 one-way, $5 round-trip. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com

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FARMERS MARKET  Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. M–F 9 am–9 pm; Sa 9 am–8 pm; Su 10 am–7 pm. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY  Iconic attraction overlooking Hollywood. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu–F noon–10 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23

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Attractions + Museums L.A. LIVE Bustling entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Nokia Theatre and Club Nokia; restaurants including Nest at WP24 and Tom’s Urban; high-tech bowling lanes; and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 L.A. ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDENS More than 250 wildlife species (many of which are rare or endangered) and 800 plant species in parklike setting. New Rainforest of the Americas exhibit. Daily 10 am–5 pm except Christmas. Ticket sales cease one hour prior to closing time. $14–$19, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 MADAME TUSSAUDS Step behind the scenes to recreate favorite film and musical moments at the world-famous museum of wax figures. Taylor Swift is new; see One Direction through Feb. 27. M-F 10 am-7 pm, Sat until 8 pm. $22.95-$29.95, under 4 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 PACIFIC PARK Amusement park at the end of the famous Santa Monica Pier offers games, food and rides, including a Ferris wheel. Individual rides $4-$6, wristbands $16.95-$24.95; see pacpark.com for hours. 380 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 310.260.8744, Map M8 QUEEN MARY SHIP AND SEAPORT Historic ocean liner—bigger than the Titanic!—permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, hotel, art deco lounge and restaurants including Sir Winston’s. Russian Foxtrot-class submarine Scorpion is adjacent. Daily 10 am-7 pm for self-guided and guided tours. Night tours available. Check website for pricing. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738, queenmary.com Map O16 SCORPION RUSSIAN SUBMARINE Tour the Scorpion, moored next to the historic Queen Mary ocean liner. Daily 10 am–6 pm. $12–$14, under 5 free. Must be at least 48 inches tall to board submarine. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16

The Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens is home to more than 1,100 animals representing 250 different species, many of which are rare or endangered. Our beautiful 113 acres also offer a carousel, play park, and Safari Shuttle. Conveniently located in Griffith Park where the I-5 and 134 freeways meet.

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TCL CHINESE THEATRE Historic, restored Hollywood movie palace (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre) with giant Imax screen and walkway of stars’ hand- and footprints in the forecourt. Visit tclchinesetheatres.com or call for movie schedule. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.3331 Map H13 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Eye-popping dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes boutiques such as Fossil, Guess? and Abercrombie & Fitch, novelty stores and state-of-the-art cinema and Imax theater. IFly Hollywood is a simulated skydiving wind tunnel. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD World’s biggest motion picture/TV studio. Rides include the 3-D, ultra-HD movie motion-simulator ride Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem and adjacent Super Silly Fun Land. Tram studio tour includes King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. VIP Experience is private guided tour through prop warehouse, working movie sets, soundstages and more. Call for hours. $84-$92, under 3 free. Front-of-line pass $139-$179. VIP Experience $299. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

Studio Tours PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour group tour of the longest-operating and only remaining major studio in Hollywood. Reservation required. Tours daily (except some holidays) every half hour 9:30 am–2 pm. $53; VIP tour $178, under 10 not admitted. 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14 SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion picture studio includes sets of televi-

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Attractions + Museums sion shows and films. Reservation, photo ID required. M–F 9:30 am–2:30 pm. $40, under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11

Pacific Park Visit

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UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour. VIP Experience includes private tour of movie studio, prop warehouse, front-of-line privileges and gourmet lunch. Call for hours. $87-$92, under 3 free. Front-of-line pass $139-$179. VIP Experience $299. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20

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WARNER BROS. STUDIOS Two-hour VIP tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, soundstages, costume department, museum, new Batman exhibit and observation of filming when possible. Deluxe tour available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. Daily except Christmas 8:15 am-4 pm. $54, under 8 not admitted. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.972.8687 Map U20

Studio Tapings AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC and CW, such as The Big Bang Theory, 2 Broke Girls and Two and a Half Men. Minimum age 10–18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, Ext. 1, tvtickets.com

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THE ELLEN DEGENERES SHOW Free tickets to taping of comedian’s daytime talk show. Minimum age 14; minors must show photo ID and be accompanied by a parent. Advance tickets, go to ellen.warnerbros.com/tickets; dayof tickets, call before noon. Warner Bros. Studios, 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.954.5929 Map U20

This discount is not valid when the Park is in limited operation. Please call (310) 260-8744 or check our online calendar at www.pacpark.com for operating schedule. Rates and hours of operation may vary. © 2014 Santa Monica Amusements. All Rights Reserved.

JIMMY KIMMEL LIVE! Free tickets to live tapings of late-night ABC show. Minimum age 18. El Capitan Entertainment Centre, 6840 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 1iota.com Map H13

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ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including Celebrity Name Game, The Price is Right and American Idol. Minimum age varies by show. 818.295.2700, mytvtickets.com

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MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM History, culture, art. Continuing Curvature: Lines and Shapes; Visibly Invisible; Lookin’ Back in Front of Me: Selected Works of Mark Steven Greenfield, 1974-2014; CAAM Courtyard Series: From Women’s Hands; The Legacy of the Golden State Mutual Life Insurance Company: More Than a Business. Tu–Sa 10 am–5 pm, Su 11 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $10. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 213.744.7432 Map M8 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists. Through Jan. 11 Pompeii: The Exhibition. Ongoing Mission 26: The Big Endeavour. Daily 10 am–5 pm. Permanent exhibition gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Parking $10. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 DISCOVERY CUBE L.A. New 71,000-square-foot children’s science center offers traveling and permanent high-tech exhibits aimed at teaching science, technology, engineering, match, healthy living and environmental stewardship through hands-on activities. Science of Hockey exhibit with the L.A. Kings opens February 2015. 10 am-5 pm (daily) except Thanksgiving and Christmas. Special grand opening admission price of $10 per person through June 30, 2015; thereafter, $12.95-$16.95. Under 3 free. 11800 Foothill Blvd., L.A., 818.686. 2823, Map north of A2 GETTY CENTER Travertine-clad hilltop facility houses stunning collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Through Jan.

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Attractions + Museums 11 Drawing in the Age of Rubens; Spectacular Rubens: The Triumph of the Eucharist. Continuing World War I: War of Images, Images of War; Josef Koudelka: Nationality Doubtful; Give and Ye Shall Receive: Gift Giving in the Middle Ages; In Focus: Play. Ongoing The Life of Art: Context, Collecting and Display. (See getty.edu for additional exhibits.) Tu–F, Su 10 am–5:30 pm, Sa until 9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 Sa after 5 pm.  1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300  Map H9

“The Official Museum of Hollywood” -Hollywood’s Honorary Mayor, Johnny Grant

IN THE HISTORIC MAX FACTOR BUILDING

GETTY VILLA  Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Roman and Greek antiquities. Continuing Dangerous Perfection: Funerary Vases from Southern Italy; Ancient Luxury and the Roman Silver Treasure from Berthouville; Relief With Antiochos and Herakles. Ongoing Molten Color: Glassmaking in Antiquity. W–M 10 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 5 pm for evening programs. Advance timed tickets required for entry.  17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300  Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM  Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes, and Grammy Award history. Through Jan. 11 Blue Note Records: The Finest in Jazz. Continuing The Taylor Swift Experience; The Comedic Genius of Rodney Dangerfield; Donna Summer: Four Seasons of Love; Lead Belly: A Musical Legacy; Pepe Aguilar … La Leyenda Continúa; Pride & Joy: The Texas Blues of Stevie Ray Vaughan. (See grammymuseum.org for ongoing and permanent exhibits.) M–F 11:30 am–7:30 pm, Sa–Su 10 am–7:30 pm. $10.95– $12.95, under 6 free.  800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800  Map I15 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM  Located in the historic Max Factor Building, just steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase a century of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. Don’t miss Max Factor’s makeup rooms, where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Lucille Ball a redhead. W–Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–$15.  1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776  Map H13 HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS  Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens. Gallery includes Pinkie and The Blue Boy. Through Jan. 5 Highlights of American Drawings and Watercolors from The Huntington’s Art Collections. Opening Jan. 24 Samuel F. B. Morse’s “Gallery of the Louvre” and the Art of Invention; The U.S. Constitution and the End of American Slavery. Continuing Bruce Davidson/Paul Caponigro: Two American Photographers in Britain and Ireland; Henry Fuseli’s The Three Witches. M, W-F noon–4:30 pm, Sa-Su 10:30 am-4:30 pm. $8–$23, under 5 free.  1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141  Map R21 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART  Diverse, superb collections housed on 20-acre campus. Through Jan. 4 The Painted City: Art from Teotihuacan; Big Quilts in Small Sizes: Children’s Historical Bedcovers. Opening Jan. 17 Louise Nevelson in L.A.: Tamarind Workshop Lithographs from the 1960s. Through Jan. 18 The Written Image: Books and Portfolios from the Robert Gore Rifkind Center for German Expressionist Studies. Through Jan. 31 Playthings: The Uncanny Art of Morton Bartlett. Opening Jan. 31 Ancient Colombia: A Journey through the Cauca Valley; Islamic Art Now: Contemporary Art of the Middle East. (See lacma.org for continuing and ongoing exhibits.) M–Tu, Th 11 am–5 pm, F until 8 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–7 pm. $10–$15, under 18 free.  5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000  Map J13 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART  Premier contemporary art museum housed in three facilities. Through Jan. 11 Cameron: Songs for the Witch Woman (PDC). Continuing Andy Warhol: Shadows (GA). Ongoing Concrete Infinity (GA); The Social Landscape: Selections from the Ralph M. Parsons Foundation Photography Collection (GA); Selections from the Permanent Collection (GA). GA and GC: M, F 11 am–5 pm; Th until 8 pm; Sa–Su until 6 pm. PDC: Tu–F 11 am–5 pm; Sa–Su until

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Shopping 6 pm. $7–$12, under 12 free, Th 5–8 pm free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust and humanrights issues, plus an immersive look at Anne Frank’s life and legacy. (See museumoftolerance.com for additional exhibits.) Su–W, Fri 10 am–5 pm; Th until 9:30 pm (extended hours for Anne only). $11.50–$15.50, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY Thirty-three million objects from dino fossils to fish. The 3.5-acre Nature Gardens and interactive Nature Lab are new to the museum. The Tyrannosaurus rex growth series is a highlight of the Dinosaur Hall. Through Jan. 6 Blue Moon Diamond; Aurora Butterfly of Peace. Through Jan. 19 Just Add Water. Continuing Grandes Maestros: Great Masters of Iberoamerican Folk Art, Collection of Fomento Cultural Banamex. (See nhm. org for additional exhibits.) Daily 9:30 am–5 pm. $5–$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15

Shopping Destinations THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley. Some inety stores and dining options. Boutiques include Kate Spade, Kiehl’s, Sugarfina and a new David Yurman boutique; other draws include Pacific Theatres cinema. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23

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PER PERSON FOR ANY TOUR TICKETS*

SPECIAL WHERE OFFER *VALID FOR ANY STARLINE TOUR EXCLUDING “SPECIALS”. HOTEL PICK-UPS AVAILABLE. NOT VALID WITH ANY OTHER DISCOUNT. NOT VALID FOR ONLINE RESERVATIONS OR PRIOR BOOKINGS. VALID ONLY FOR CUSTOMERS WHO PURCHASE TICKETS DIRECTLY AT STARLINE KIOSK AT CHINESE THEATRE OR CONTACT STARLINE DIRECTLY AT 1-323-463-3333 OR 1-800-959-3131. VALID THROUGH 3/15/15.

BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall near West Hollywood has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Fendi, Gucci, Hugo Boss, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Saint Laurent, Tiffany & Co., Z Zegna, new Uniqlo and a new True Religion concept store) and restaurants including the Capital Grille. Anchors include Macy’s, Macy’s Men’s Store and Bloomingdale’s. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CITADEL OUTLETS Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted duds from Kate Spade, H&M, Banana Republic, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 FIGAT7TH Center features hip, casual eateries and food purveyors such as Lotería Grill, Mendocino Farms and Sprinkles Cupcakes, plus shops including City Target, Zara and H&M. Gold’s Gym also on-site. Retail M-F 10 am-9 pm, Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm; dining M-F 11 am-9 pm, Sa-Su 11 am-7 pm. 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.955.7150 Map H16 THE GROVE Popular outdoor center has more than 39 shops, Nordstrom and restaurants in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown. Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws. Multitiered “Privileges” membership program offers benefits including discounted self- and valet parking, private shopping events, restaurant tastings and personal styling service. Adjacent to Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13 HOLLYWOOD & HIGHLAND CENTER Home of the Academy Awards’ Dolby Theatre. Tinseltown-themed retail, dining and entertainment center features several restaurants, a cinema, high-tech bowling lanes, stores such as Louis Vuitton and Lucky Brand Jeans, plus a 28,000-square-foot Sweet! candy store and Wyland Gallery. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.6412 Map H13

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Tours +Transport

Sizes 12 & up

MALIBU COUNTRY MART Outdoor center with upscale boutiques such as Curve, Yosemite by James Perse, Letarte swimwear, Vintage Malibu and Madison, plus galleries, spas and children’s play area. Restaurants include Tra di Noi and Mr. Chow. 3835 and 3900 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7 ONE COLORADO Outdoor plaza with boutiques such as Gold Bug, Goorin Brothers, Oska, Mohawk General Store and new Cop. Copine and Vince, plus deluxe movie theater Ipic Theaters. Refuel after retail therapy at Italian restaurant Il Fornaio, AKA Bistro, Dots Cupcakes or Sushi Roku. 41 Hugus Alley, Old Pasadena, 626.564.1066 Map Q19 SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at one end of Third Street Promenade. Anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques including 7 for All Mankind, CB2 and Barneys New York. Rooftop dining deck with food court, restaurants and gourmet market. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SUNSET PLAZA Upscale row of boutiques and sidewalk cafes. Calypso, Calleen Cordero and H. Lorenzo stores; Ole Henriksen spa and Eden by Eden Sassoon salon. 8600–8700 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.2622 Map H12 THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes Zara, Cotton On, Converse, Anthropologie, kiosks and a wide array of very entertaining street performers. 1351 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8 TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features high-end boutiques including Versace, Jimmy Choo, Vilebrequin, Tiffany & Co., Stephen Webster and others, plus restaurants such as 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11

The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up. From comfortable to casual or dressy— classic to funky or fun: Abundance has it all!

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WESTFIELD AT LAX Visitors flying out of LAX can enjoy some of the city’s top retail and dining establishments, curated by Westfield, in the Tom Bradley International Terminal. Shop Kitson and Fred Segal, as well as luxury brands Tumi, Emporio Armani and Porsche Design. Fine-dining options include James’ Beach and Border Grill. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770 Map O10 WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY Open-air mall with more than 175 stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Tiffany & Co. Luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen, beautifully designed food court atrium and terrace, and restaurants including Obica Mozzarella Bar and Toscanova. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898 Map J11

Tours + Transport AIRPORT EXPRESS LIMOUSINE Luxury Lincoln Town Car service offering airport transfer to Los Angeles International Airport and Bob Hope Airport in Burbank, customized city tours and more transportation services. 866.800.0700, airportexpresslimos.com AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations. Nationwide connections, multiple-day rail passes. Stations in Burbank, downtown (Union Station), Long Beach, Pasadena and Van Nuys. The Coast Starlight connects L.A. to Ventura, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Portland and Seattle. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10

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BURGERS. BACON. BEER. Voted one of the

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Tours +Transport  CITYPASS  Southern California CityPass offers discounted admission to Disneyland Resort and Disney California Adventure (including one Magic Morning admission), Universal Studios Hollywood (including the behind-the-scenes Studio Tour, all rides and attractions) and SeaWorld San Diego. $334; ages 3–9 $291; under 3 free. Purchase pass at attractions or order online. 888.330.5008, citypass.com   ORNBLOWER CRUISES  Dinner-dance and ChamH pagne brunch cruises. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 888.467.6256, hornblower. com Map O9 L  OS ANGELES CONSERVANCY  Walking tours with a focus on architecture. More than a dozen fascinating walking tours focus variously on Broadway’s Historic Theatre District, the Millennium Biltmore Hotel, Union Station, Angelino Heights and more. Call for specialty tours. 213.623.2489, laconservancy.org L.A. DISCOVERY TOURS  Discover the beauty and diversity of Los Angeles through unique specialty tours. Offerings include tours of Santa Monica and Pasadena, hiking tours and the new Ronald Reagan Presidential Library Tour. Sister company Malibu Discovery specializes in luxury tasting tours of area wineries, including its popular Malibu Wine Trail Tour. 310.393.6555, ladiscoverytours.com

On the corner of Raymond and Union 61 North Raymond Ave.

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METRO  City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach. Underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to Pasadena and East L.A.; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Culver City to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net METROLINK  Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com MOVIE LOCATIONS TOUR—L.A.  See more than 50 movie locations while viewing 100-plus clips from films shot around L.A. Tour bus features stadium seating, 65” HDTV and panoramic windows. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, movielocationstour.com Map H13

manhattan beach

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santa monica

1605 montana avenue 310.496.1800

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TARLINE TOURS  Hollywood’s largest celebrity tour S company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tours throughout the day. Its large repertoire also includes tours to movie locations, beaches, theme parks and San Diego. The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour has more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13   UPERSHUTTLE  Shared-ride shuttle service to and S from airport. Group rates, charters, and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 800.258.3826, supershuttle.com   MZ HOLLYWOOD TOUR  Bus tour with state-of-theT art audio-video system explores celebrity haunts and sites of famous scandals. TMZ guides are at the ready to interview celebrities and send footage back to the newsroom. $59–$69. Starline Tours, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 855.486.9868, tmztour.com Map H13

where?

Log on anywhere. WhereLA.com WHERE LOS ANGELES 89

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GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s second-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and six rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes. Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at metro.net or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries. Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.

Fares

Metro’s base fare is $1.75. It’s best to pay using a TAP card, a reloadable plastic card that can store Metro passes or individual rides. TAP cards cost $1 and are available from self-service vending machines at Metro Rail stations, or onboard buses with the purchase of a 1-Day Pass. For complete information, check metro.net/fares. Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult. Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train. Note: Metro has installed turnstiles at many Metro Rail stations; others simply operate on the honor system. However, fare inspectors randomly check passengers for valid tickets or passes. You may never be checked, but if you are and you don’t have proof of valid fare, the inspector may issue a citation and you may be fined.

Hours

Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at metro.net regarding your return trip.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) • FIGat7th (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • TCL Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) Universal City/Studio City • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood North Hollywood • El Portal Center for the Arts • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)

METRO BLUE LINE

Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street • Watts Towers Transit Mall • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary

METRO GOLD LINE

Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake Avenue • Pasadena Playhouse

METRO EXPO LINE

Expo Park/USC Station • California Science Center SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 95.

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20 Tours of the iconic Bradbury Building via Los Angeles Conservancy. p. 89 Pre-party makeovers at Eden by Eden Sassoon in Sunset Plaza. 310.861.4660 The ever-cool Patti Smith at The Theatre at Ace Hotel downtown Jan. 29-30. 213.623.3233 The rooftop garden at RH West Hollywood, The Gallery on Melrose Avenue. 310.652.0323 Cute clutches at the new Clare V. on Montana Avenue. 310.395.3079 “Superfoods” candies and other treats at Sugarfina in Beverly Hills. 855.784.2734 The sexy atmosphere and flaming Zombie at Acabar in Hollywood. 323.876.1400 Catching a Kings game at Staples Center, downtown. p. 82

where in the world

14

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27 Oyster Gourmet’s shell-shaped kiosk at Grand Central Market downtown. 213.624.2378 Canoodling over cocktails at The Tower Bar in the Sunset Tower Hotel. 323.654.7100 Detroit pride at Shinola’s hip new Silver Lake flagship. 323.473.5250 The fashionable new Alfred Coffee (In the Alley), a stone’s throw from the first location on Melrose Place. 424.288.4126 Mm-mm-good maple bacon biscuits at Huckleberry Bakery and Café. p. 20 Delicious-smelling Jabonería Marianella soaps at Lake in Silver Lake. 323.664.6522 Rustic cheddar grits at The Hart and the Hunter on Melrose Avenue. 323.424.3055

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Post-shopping cocktails and nibbles at Freds at Barneys New York in Beverly Hills. p. 21 Alexa Chung’s ’70s-inspired collaboration with L.A.-based AG denim. 310.275.2621

The magnificent pipe organ at Walt Disney Concert Hall. 82 Made-in-L.A. leather bags and accessories at Killspencer in Silver Lake. p. 48

COS, H&M’s minimalist sister label, now open on North Beverly Drive. 310.734.3472

Ogling the new Edouard Manet acquisition, Le Printemps (1881), at the Getty Center in Brentwood. p. 86

Artfully imperfect Polly Wales jewelry at Chariots on Fire in Venice. 310.450.3088

Cicchetti and vino at Bacari PDR in Playa del Rey. 310.439.2100

Providence’s exquisite seafood dishes, such as these Nantucket Bay scallops with persimmon. p. 23

Perfect martinis at Jar (try the “Naughty” with blue-cheese olives). p. 23

A new lunch menu at the Manhattan Beach Yacht Club, on the city’s pier. p. 61 The S&L Old Fashioned on tap at new Plan Check Kitchen + Bar downtown. p. 66

The Ling Energy Lift body treatment at Ciel Spa in the SLS Beverly Hills. 310.246.5560 Burberry’s shot-in-L.A. “Art of the Trenches” campaign. p. 16 Butt-kicking workouts at Brik Fitness in Redondo Beach. 310.373.2745

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Tampa, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Sydney, Melbourne CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

13, EMILY HART ROTH 20, NOE MONTES 27, LISA THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHY 29, SAMANTHA STONE IN SEASONAL TRENCH COAT, COURTESY BURBERRY/ NICHOLAS HAGGARD

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