Where Los Angeles, March 2012

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MARCH 2012 WHERELA.COM

Los Angeles

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GIADA DE LAURENTIIS DISHES ON HER FAVE L.A. EATS KATE SPADE AND KELLY WEARSTLER'S NEW STORES FINE DINING IN FLIP-FLOPS: LAID-BACK RESTAURANTS

I love L.A.

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Mir贸 and Dal铆

Poetic Visions two catalan surrealists Mir贸, Joan Gaudi XVIII, 1979.

color etching on arches

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LOCALS IN THE KNOW MARCH

where Los Angeles 3.12 the guide 68 DINING Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

91 ENTERTAINMENT Special events, sports and performing arts

92 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Sights, parks, studio tours and exhibitions

97 SHOPPING The best in retail destinations

100 SPAS Top spots for beauty and relaxation

101 NIGHTLIFE Hottest clubs, lounges and bars

104 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around

107 MAPS Navigate the county

62

whereabouts

where now

features

12 Dining Bagatelle meets Restaurant Row Tar & Roses in Santa Monica Sadie hits Hollywood

20 Why I Love L.A. Seven locals detail their affairs with L.A.: why they adore their ‘hoods, why you’ve got to visit and the spots you can’t miss.

14 Shopping Kelly Wearstler’s boutique Kate Spade New York pop-up shop 16 Nightlife Little Bear’s Belgian style Golden Road Brewery’s pub

BY KATIE MCCARTHY

62 Trending Casual Fine dining is no longer defined by luxurious trappings. L.A. is the land of the casual gourmet, where communal tables and small plates reign and patrons can eat like royalty in flip-flops.

BY ROGER GRODY

28 32 36 42 46 50 56 58

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

ALSO INSIDE 11 HOT DATES L.A. Ballet’s Swan Lake 18 Q+A Giada De Laurentiis 112 30 THINGS WE LOVE

ON THE COVER Antonio Martín Guirado and María Argos Ezquerra, West Hollywood residents.

See the feature on page 20. Photo by Amy K. Fellows CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz from Where editors worldwide online and on your smartphone.

RICK POON

Green curry mussels from M.B. Post in Manhattan Beach

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where m ag a z ine

On the Web: WhereLA.com

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Welcome

SUNSET STRIP SUNSET & LA CIENEGA WEST HOLLYWOOD 323-650-0475 VEGAS STRIP FASHION SHOW LAS VEGAS 702-632-0848

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FOOD FOR THOUGHT

It’s all about the food. After more than four years of interviewing all types of people—actors and musicians, entrepreneurs and designers, out-oftowners and lifelong Angelenos, even my co-workers—about their go-to places in Los Angeles, I find that the conversations always begin and end with discussions of favorite eats. It makes sense, of course: We eat three meals a day. But I’m always struck by how even the most pixielike starlet never fails to wax on about her favorite taco joint. Forget the Malibu Country Mart or Universal Studios Hollywood—if I ever want to see my favorite celeb, maybe I’m better off staking out Umami Burger. (A friend once snapped a mobile-phone shot of a baseballcapped Hilary Swank tearing into a burger with seemingly singleminded focus at her table for one. It never occurred to me that when an actress says, “I eat whatever I want,” she might be telling the truth.)

These pages are filled with tried-and-tested, Angeleno-approved dining destinations. Find out which restaurants the most glam chef on TV, Giada De Laurentiis, adores (p. 18). Check out Trending Casual (p.

62), in which Roger Grody, who has kept Where readers informed of the hottest food destinations for nearly 20 years, touches on the best casual-chic eateries that are so of-the-moment. And for recommendations on all kinds of venues—dining, shopping, entertainment, music and more—turn to Why I Love L.A. (p. 20) featuring the people who know the city best: the ones who live, dine, shop, entertain themselves and rock out here. I guess there’s no pleasure like sharing the particular sensual delight of eating with another person. Unless that person is Hilary Swank, and she’s got a truffle burger. In that case, you might have to get your own. —KATIE McCARTHY

EDWIN SANTIAGO

WITH AN

A note from the editor

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WHAT’S SIZZLING IN SECONDS FLAT

Hot Dates 3.12 Principal dancer Allynne Noelle as the Black Swan in Los Angeles Ballet’s Swan Lake

MARCH 2–14 PALEYFEST Celebrate the small screen at the 29th annual event, taking place at the Saban Theatre in Beverly Hills. Screenings and panel discussions with the casts and creative teams of hit shows such as Modern Family, New Girl and Mad Men offer fans a chance to hear from their TV heroes. p. 91 MARCH 8 PPLA FOOD FARE This celebrated culinary event began in 1979 with a cooking demonstration by Julia Child. It’s since expanded to a festival offering bites from more than 150 restaurants, plus sips from a variety of wineries and food-truck grub.

Indulge your inner food geek at the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium. p. 91 MARCH 11 CLIPPERS VS. WARRIORS For the first time in years, tickets for Los Angeles Clippers games are selling out as audiences pack into Staples Center downtown to see how new acquisition Chris Paul performs. Watch the home-state rivalry ignite when the Clippers face off against Oakland’s Golden State Warriors. p. 91 OPENING MARCH 13 AMERICAN IDIOT Slinging razor guitars , thundering drums and an antihero named Johnny: not the prelude of typical entries in the canon of musical theater. But the musical based on Green Day’s 2004 rock album American Idiot was a hit on Broadway, and it travels to downtown’s Ahmanson Theatre on a 15-city national tour. p. 91

MARCH 3–4, 10, 17, 24, 31

CATHERINE ASHOMORE—ROH

On Point Thanks in no small part to the film Black Swan, Tchaikovsky’s classic ballet Swan Lake is cool again, and Los Angeles Ballet is one of the companies bringing it back to the stage. New principal dancer Allynne Noelle, formerly a soloist for the Miami City Ballet, is among the dancers featured in the L.A. Ballet premiere of Swan Lake, the tale of a swan queen, a prince, an evil spell and an eternal love. It features choreography from artistic directors Thordal Christensen and Colleen Neary. Performances take place March 3–4 at UCLA’s Royce Hall; March 10 at the Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center; March 17 at the Alex Theatre in Glendale; March 24 at Carpenter Performing Arts Center in Long Beach; and March 31 at the Valley Performing Arts Center at California State University, Northridge. p. 91 NEARBY If you take in the premiere at UCLA, take a sunset stroll in the Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens (310.825.1260). Dine at 800 Degrees (424.239.5010), the Neapolitan pizza joint from the creator of Umami Burger featuring build-your-own pies, or do California cuisine and wines at Napa Valley Grille (310.824.3322).

Y

MARCH 18 HONDA L.A. MARATHON Prepare for the stampede stretching from downtown to the sea during the 27th annual marathon. Last year’s winner recorded the best time in the L.A. Marathon’s history to win the $100,000 prize. Competitors and spectators alike convene at the Finish Line Festival on Santa Monica Pier. p. 91 THROUGH MARCH 25 OVO A blue-and-yellow “grand chapiteau” adjacent to Santa Monica Pier hosts a limited engagement of this Cirque du Soleil extravaganza. Ovo, which means “egg” in Portuguese, delves into the world of insects with 55 performing artists and a riot of colorful, evocative costumes. p. 91 OPENING MARCH 28 APHRODITE AND THE GODS OF LOVE The first major U.S. exhibition devoted to the Greek goddess Aphrodite, who was associated with beauty and romantic desire, goes beyond conventional preconceptions to explore her manifold aspects. The show, which includes a number of important loans from Italy, is at the Getty Villa in Pacific Palisades. p. 96 HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Go to WhereLA.com for our Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performing arts events, dining promotions and more.

One hundred ninety-five L.A. Marathon “Legacy Runners”—those who have participated in every race since it began in 1989—are set to participate in this year’s event. p. 91

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where now Los Angeles

The best in dining, shopping and nightlife

» DINING

New York State of Mind Adjacent to Restaurant Row steakhouse STK is Bagatelle, the New York legend that has just immigrated to the West Coast. Owners Aymeric Clemente and Remi Laba designed Bagatelle with the south of France in mind, creating the ambience of a St. Tropez bistro. Hungry patrons find yellowfin tuna tartare, foie gras terrine and pickled pork belly from executive chef Scott Quinn, a Thomas Keller protégé. (Pictured: Burgundy snails, tomato confit, arugula, garlic and fine herbs au beurre.) 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.659.3900

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Tar & Roses in Santa Monica

ROSY OUTLOOK

THIS PAGE, BOT TOM: ACUNA-HANSEN. OPPOSITE, JOSHUA SHAUB

Andrew Kirschner, the chef formerly of Wilshire and Table 8, embarks upon his first solo venture with Tar & Roses, a casually chic Santa Monica eatery serving a modern, rustic American cuisine. A tantalizing menu starts with bruschetta, charcuterie and cheese, and continues on to four main categories: snacks, veggies, and small and large plates. Standout items include charred octopus skewers with salsa verde and piquillo pepper aïoli; wood-fired duck egg with gigante beans, tomato and guanciale; hangar steak with wood-roasted duck-fat potatoes and romesco; and braised red fish with chanterelles, borlotti beans and tomato. Exotic family-style platters, such as wood-fired goat with Moroccan accompaniments, can be ordered five days in advance for parties of four or more. A combination of vintage and rough-hewn décor elements with the new and refined create an eclectic vibe. 602 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.0700

Hot in Hollywood New Sadie is an upscale lounge and eatery that marries retro Hollywood glamour with sleek contemporary style.

A vintage neon sign draws diners into a parlor area where Victorian chandeliers and a vintage mahogany bar turn on the charm. Exposed brick walls and floors lead the way to a lounge and courtyard dining room. There, patrons enjoy market-driven New American cuisine imagined by executive chef Dave Schmit, an alum of the Hotel Bel-

Air and the Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel, under the stars. Dishes from the seasonal menu—options include duck confit flatbread with arugula pesto, balsamic-glazed beef short ribs and, for dessert, a peanutbutter-and-jelly ice cream sandwich— can be paired with bottles from a globally sourced wine list and handcrafted cocktails from director of spirits Giovanni Martinez. 1638 N. Las Palmas Ave., Hollywood, 323.467.0200

Sadie in Hollywood

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WHERE NOW Los

Angeles SHOPPING

Kelly Wearstler, known for her colorful, statement-making interior designs, has quietly opened a Melrose Avenue boutique for her eponymous lifestyle brand, encompassing the newly launched ready-to-wear, jewelry and accessories collections plus home décor items and books.

Retail prices for the ready-to-wear collection range from $125 for a signature T-shirt to $2,500 for a fur coat, while jewelry and accessories include earrings ($85) and a snakeskin-and-leather clutch ($995). Home offerings include a one-of-a-kind “Bauble Box.” Naturally, the design of the 2,800-square-foot boutique bears Wearstler’s signature stamp. “I wanted to fill the store with sun, to create a space that feels really cool, and California,” she says. “I want people to feel comfortable here, to have a thoughtful shopping experience.”

8440 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.895.7880

Kelly Wearstler’s eponymous Melrose Avenue boutique

POPPING UP Much-loved fashion brand Kate Spade New York stages an L.A. popup shop with a rock ‘n’ roll twist. As part of the label’s spring campaign, a “tour bus” rolls into town March 2–4. Decked out in the “Japanese Floral” print from Australian artist Florence Broadhurst—whose designs can be seen in items from Kate Spade’s spring collection—the bus functions as a boutique on wheels. Shoppers can hop on to find limited-edition and

exclusive Kate Spade pieces as well as looks from the new collaborative collection with Broadhurst and enter to win prizes. Brooklyn, N.Y.-based indie rock band the Vivian Girls opens the store on March 2 with a free concert.

The bus pops up at the Grove (189 The Grove Drive, L.A.) on March 2; the Brig (1515 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice) on March 3; and at 2740 Main Street, Santa Monica, on March 4. katespade.com

Lindsay espadrille by Kate Spade

la

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Frida Kahlo, Self-Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird (Autorretrato con collar de espinas y colibrí), 1940, Harry Ransom Humanities Research Center, The University of Texas at Austin, © 2011 Banco de México Diego Rivera Frida Kahlo Museums Trust, México, D.F./ Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York, reproduction of Frida Kahlo governed by Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes y Literatura (INBA)

Designing Woman

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Frida Kahlo, Self-Portrait with Thorn Necklace and Hummingbird (Autorretrato con collar de espinas y colibrí), 1940, Harry Ransom Humanities Research Center, The University of Texas at Austin, © 2011 Banco de México Diego Rivera Frida Kahlo Museums Trust, México, D.F./ Artists Rights Society (ARS), New York, reproduction of Frida Kahlo governed by Instituto Nacional de Bellas Artes y Literatura (INBA)

In Wonderland:

THE SURREALIST ADVENTURES OF WOMEN ARTISTS IN MEXICO AND THE UNITED STATES

JANUARY 29–MAY 6, 2012

lacma.org |5905 wilshire blvd (at fairfax ave)

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WHERE NOW Los

Angeles Cheeses and beer at Little Bear downtown

» NIGHTLIFE

BEAR-Y GOOD From Andre Guerrero, the chef behind comfort-food eatery the Oinkster, and Ryan Sweeney, craft-beer aficionado of the Surly Goat, comes Little Bear. The bar-slash-cafe in downtown’s arts district pours Belgian-style imported and domestic beers on draft from an extensive rotating list. Libations include selections from California-based the Bruery and Russian River Brewing Co. plus Belgian Owl, the only Belgian whiskey available in the United States. The kitchen turns out Belgian-inspired favorites such as liège waffles with fresh strawberries and whipped cream, waterzooi (chicken stew) and a selection of grilled cheeses stuffed with nontraditional ingredients such as ale-braised brisket and arugula or salmon and cream cheese. 1855 Industrial St., downtown, 213.622.8100

Brew News Raise a glass to Golden Road Brewing: L.A.’s newest brewery is ready to host patrons in its brand-new pub featuring a rotating selection of craft beers and a full food menu. Co-founders Tony Yanow and Meg Gill offer Golden Road’s first signature beers (the Point the Way IPA and Golden Road Hefeweizen) on draft alongside selections from brewers in California and beyond (Firestone Walker Brewing Co., Dogfish Head Craft Brewed

Ales, Oskar Blues) on 15 guest taps. Chef Adam Levoe, a home-brewer, conceived a menu of vegan and nonvegan dishes to complement the beers; eats include a tofu bánh mì, meatballs with spicy cornbread and a “sloppy Joseph” with Porter-braised beef shortrib. Weekend barbecues on the back patio with rotating burger and beer specials create a convivial vibe. 5410 W. San Fernando Road, Atwater Village, 213.373.4677

The pub at Golden Road Brewing in Atwater Village

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SHOPPING AT ITS FINEST Find the latest styles and hottest trends at your favorite shops.

Enjoy one of 10 restaurants or dine al fresco at the Dining Terrace with 16 express eateries.

Pick up a VIP Visitor Card filled with special offers for our out-of town guests at the Westfield Concierge.

10250 Santa Monica Blvd. Los Angeles, CA 90067 310.277.3898 Westfield.com

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Macy’s Bloomingdale’s

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Angeles

Giada, you grew up (partially) in L.A. When someone brings up “the good ol’ days,” what are the first things that come to mind?

Hanging out and shopping with my friends in Westwood, at the Beverly Center and on Melrose Avenue when I was in junior high and high school.

» Q+A EVERYDAY GIADA

If you watch Giada De Laurentiis on the Food Network and NBC’s Today show, follow her recipes (her next cookbook: Weeknights With Giada) or buy her food and cookware at Target, you probably also know about her famous Italian family. But fewer are aware she has real Los Angeles roots, too. In fact, she spent a good amount of her childhood here, attended UCLA in Westwood (majoring in anthropology!), and cut her teeth cooking at Wolfgang Puck’s Spago.

Though she is constantly on the move, today she, husband Todd and daughter Jade still call L.A. home. We asked De Laurentiis how she enjoys the city when she’s off-camera and out of the kitchen. —E.C. Gladstone

paddle with Todd, and just enjoy the serenity of the ocean.

How about pampering? Do you ever hit a spa?

Love the Aroma Spa & Sports in Koreatown. Ask for the Korean scrub!

Are there any classic L.A. restaurants that will never get old for you?

The Ivy on Robertson. I was a hostess there when I was 18 years old!

Do you get to enjoy any of the cultural aspects of L.A.?

Todd, Jade and I love the Getty Center. Jade loves the train, Todd and I enjoy the art and architecture, and we all enjoy just hanging out on the grass and taking in the view.

What are some new restaurants in town that you’re hoping to check out?

Ink., Red Medicine, Son of a Gun and Bäco Mercat are all places I’m dying to try.

After living here for so many years, is there anything you’d like to see more of in L.A.?

Musicals and plays! And, Todd told me to say NFL football!

There have been many trends in L.A.’s dining scene over the years, but is there anything about L.A.’s food that doesn’t get enough credit?

We have great food in Thai Town, just east of Hollywood!

My favorite [Thai restaurant] is Jitlada.

Details Aroma Spa & Sports 3680 Wilshire Blvd., Koreatown, 213.387.0212 Bäco Mercat 408 S. Main St., downtown, 213.687.8808 Beverly Center 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 El Matador State Beach 32100 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Getty Center 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7330 Ink. 8360 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.651.5866 Ivy Restaurant 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.274.8303 Jitlada Thai 5233 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.663.3104 Point Dume Westward Beach Road, Malibu Red Medicine 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.651.5500 Son of a Gun 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033

So, when a friend comes to town and says “Show me L.A.,” where do you take her?

El Matador State Beach or for a walk on Point Dume, followed up with a dinner in town somewhere just to show the diversity of L.A. You’re working and in the public eye so much. Where in L.A. do you like to go to escape, revive, find solace?

I like to go for a nice standup

©2011, TeLeviSioN FooD NeTWoRK, G.P.

where now Los

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3617 Exposition Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90016 9646 Brighton Way

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Beverly Hills

P 310 859 1131

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On the topic of Los Angeles, writer D.H. Lawrence sniffed, “I wouldn’t want to live here, but a stay here rather amuses me. It's a sort of crazy-sensible.” A century after that backhanded compliment, seven locals spread across the county agree that the only thing better than visiting is staying. They tell why they love where they live, why you should check out their 'hoods, and favorite spots that you'd be crazy to miss.

BY KATIE mcCarthy

why i love l.a.

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.

pHOTOGRapHy by amy k. fEllOWs

GREG katz | silvER lakE

m

usic surrounds Greg Katz. An award-winning law journalist turned musicindustry consultant, Katz works on tunes by day and by night: The Silver Lake resident plays bass and sings in LA Font, an emerging rock quartet.

And nights when he's not playing at the clubs on L.A.'s Eastside, he's usually in the audience. "I'm a musician, I've always been a musician, and I work in music, and [the Eastside] is where all the music energy is. Pretty much everything that is great that comes out of L.A. that’s not mainstream pop music comes from that little corridor." In addition to the creative spirit found in Silver Lake and surrounding neighborhoods such as Echo Park and Los Feliz, the convenience factor of the area is what Katz appreciates. "You can walk out of your house and go do 10 fun things without needing to drive," he enthuses. For him, those "fun things" might include hitting a bookstore, grabbing a cup of artisan coffee or sharing a vegetarian dinner with his girlfriend, Traci. He says, "I’m always proud to show off to people we’re not all sitting in traffic here. Some of us are having fun and exploring the things that we love, and we’re not doing it from behind the wheel on the freeway."

ORIGAMI VINYL (Pictured.) "It's such a welcoming space, and for someone like me who is deeply emotionally invested in music, to go there and find whoever’s working at the counter and whoever’s shopping are other people who have also the same emotional investment in music— that is a sort of community thing that I really love."

THE ECHO "The Echo Park and Silver Lake clubs ... are really the heart of music in Los Angeles."

FLORE VEGAN "I’m a vegetarian, so I’m always hitting up vegetarian places. Right in my neighborhood is Flore, which is a great vegan diner."

MASA + TWO BOOTS PIZZA "The other great thing about being in a neighborhood with a lot of other vegetarians and vegans is that pretty much every restaurant has some mouthwatering options. Masa and Two Boots in Echo Park both have really ridiculously good vegan pizza."

FORAGE "A great place if you want vegetables. They just do great asparagus, great salad, great various vegetablebased things—not like vegetarian cuisine, not like tofu and tempeh and things like that, but just tasty vegetables."

INTELLIGENTSIA COFFEE & TEA "Of course Intelligentsia is the best coffee."

MORNINGS NIGHTS "For coffee that’s cheap and not a scene, there’s Mornings Nights in Silver Lake in Sunset Junction, which everyone calls Julie's because the owner’s name is Julie."

STORIES "A cool bookstore. It’s a great hang, too, and one of those places where you’ll always see somebody else you know no matter what time you go in there."

OK "A lot of times when it’s like '$%@#, I need to get someone a gift!' I end up at OK."

WHERE TO GO

The Echo 1822 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.413.8200 Flore Vegan 3818 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.953.0611 Forage 3823 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.6885 Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea 3922 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.6173 Masa 1800 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.989.1558 Mornings Nights 1523 Griffith Park Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.664.8811 OK 1716 Silverlake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.666.1868 Origami Vinyl 1816 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.413.3030 Stories 1716 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.413.3733 Two Boots 1818 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.413.2668

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christine choi | MirAcLe MiLe District

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rare breed in a city whose people have increasingly diverse origins, Christine Choi is a native Angeleno, and one who won't be leaving her fair city anytime soon. Raised in the Inland Empire and schooled at a local university, today she's a communications manager at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. An aesthete whose passions run from fine art to fashion to food, she has found dozens of favorite spots to indulge her myriad interests within a few miles of her home in the Miracle Mile District, a hop, skip and jump from LACMA. "A lot of people I know now at the museum end up staying in the area because it's super convenient," she explains.

"And, say what you will, but it's kind of, kind of walkable." Over cocktails and margherita pizza at a new favorite haunt, the restaurant Ray's on LACMA's expansive campus, she says that she defends L.A. to detractors who think it's a town built on celebrity culture and flash. "L.A.'s big enough that you can do whatever you want. You don’t have to abide by those rules."

WHERE TO GO

The Counter 5779 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.932.8900 Craft and Folk Art Museum 5814 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.937.4230 Farmers Market 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 The Grove 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.900.8080 Los Angeles County Museum of Art 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6010 The Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Pulp 452 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.937.3505 Ray's & Stark Bar LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6180 Short Order Farmers Market, 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.761.7970

RAY'S & STARK BAR "I am a bread fiend, and the bread here—someone told me before I’d even tried it that it was some of the best bread in L.A., and I think it is some of the best bread in L.A. They have a wood-fired oven back there. What Kris [Morningstar, executive chef] does with seafood here is excellent."

SHORT ORDER "Short Order has an awesome little bar upstairs, and I like going there. And Nancy Silverton’s desserts are also to die for."

THE COUNTER "Sometimes I feel like a peanut-butterand-jelly sandwich with my glass of beer at the Counter, 'cause they’re open 'til 11."

THE GROVE + FARMERS MARKET "One of my favorite things is, Sunday morning I go for a run and I end up at the Farmers Market, get fresh fruit at the stands, get a newspaper, and I spend my morning just sitting there and people-watching."

LACMA CAMPUS (Pictured.) "When I see [people] lay out their blanket and just read in the shade on one of the hills ... I'm eternally jealous."

THE PAGE MUSEUM "For people who are more like the history buffs, they love the tar pits, they love the Page Museum. People love that tar! And the mammoth kind of moves. Believe me, I only discovered it two years ago and I thought it was in my head."

CRAFT AND FOLK ART MUSEUM "Everyone goes there for holiday shopping, or just shopping in general."

PULP "All the boutiques along West 3rd [Street are] awesome, and I think Pulp is one of the best stationery stores in the city. That is an awesome store. I’m a sucker for cards, like letter-press things, so I have an appreciation for that."

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Antonio MArtín GuirAdo + MAríA ArGos ezquerrA West HoLLYWood

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panish expat María Argos Ezquerra sees much more of the sun since she moved to Los Angeles. A native of Torrelavega, a small town in northern Spain, she endures far fewer cloudy days here than she did in her rainy village—a huge bonus for this outdoors lover and her boyfriend, Madrid native Antonio Martín Guirado, who says with a smile, "Anytime the sun comes out, she feels happy."

The couple—she, an employee of the Spanish Embassy, and he, a journalist for the EFE, a Spanish news agency—share an enviable apartment beneath West Hollywood's Sunset Strip, ideal since they love the nightlife as much as soaking up rays by the pool at the Standard Hollywood. Martín Guirado, who was sent to L.A. to cover Hollywood goings-on, says, "I never thought of coming here, and since day No. 1, I felt like this was some kind of miracle, or paradise." Buying a convertible completed their picture of SoCal paradise. Says Martín Guirado, "We always have that image of someone in California driving in the sun and hitting the beach. We wanted to be that guy, I guess."

SUNSET TROCADERO LOUNGE Antonio: "After a day of work, that after maybe we are a little bit tired, we like to go to some places that are in walking distance.

One of those places is Trocadero."

María: "They have a good happy hour."

Antonio: "It’s drinks and appetizers half-priced. That’s important."

LE CLAFOUTIS María: "I love the mussels there. I always order it."

Antonio: "And they already know us: 'Hey guys, how are you?' "

THE STANDARD HOLLYWOOD (Pictured.) Antonio: "If we are not in the mood for going to the beach, we would definitely go to the Standard to have lunch, maybe a drink before, play ping pong, get into the swimming pool, maybe call some friends, see if they want to come."

María: "Spanish people really like it."

THE LONDON WEST HOLLYWOOD Antonio: "In Spain, it’s not that easy to find these great places where you can just walk inside and have a mojito or whatever in such a gorgeous place. And you can find thousands of these places around here."

LEMON TREE BUNGALOW María: "It's a tiny shop [where] you can buy presents—picture frames and candles."

SANTA MONICA BOULEVARD BARS Antonio: "When María has people visit her, she likes to show the neighborhood especially on Sundays, because it’s not common for us in Spain to see a lot of people in the streets and partying and having a good time on Sundays. And, well, if you go to Santa Monica Boulevard right now, at Troubadour and Rage—all those clubs are full of people.

And it’s fun to take a look at all the people half-naked, dancing, on a Sunday, maybe at 2 or 3 [pm]."

WHERE TO GO Le Clafoutis Sunset Plaza, 8630 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.5233 Lemon Tree Bungalow 8727 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.0211 The London West Hollywood 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.854.1111 Rage Restaurant & Bar 8911 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.7055 The Standard Hollywood 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.9090 Sunset Trocadero Lounge 8280 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.7161 The Troubadour 9081 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.1158

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CHARLOTTE, HUDSON + DRAKE PRUITT | BRENTWOOD

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eattle: Notoriously rainy, pretty darn gloomy when not rainy, and probably a lessthan-ideal place to establish a swimwear line. Yet Charlotte Pruitt did just that with her swimwear and resort-wear company FrenchFifty, and prospered in spite of her location: Her suits have been worn by celebs such as Charlize Theron and Halle Berry and are sold at a plethora of upscale boutiques, including L.A. stores such as Elyse Walker, the Beverly Hills Bikini Shop and Madison. She confesses that a move to L.A. was probably beneficial, though. "I feel more inspired being near the ocean and being able to do beach walks," she says. "I'm an ocean girl, and I wanted my son [Hudson, 3] to grow up on the beach." She, Hudson and her husband, Drake, live in Brentwood, and they are "in love with the Westside." "I love how wide open the streets are," Drake says. "It’s kind of the boulevard feel....

It feels very eclectic, like everybody has built something unique, and you can stroll and people are friendly." When they're not entertaining Hudson with kid-friendly outings to the Brentwood Country Mart petting zoo or the neighborhood Tex-Mex restaurant ("They don't have a stroke if you bring the kid in the door," Drake explains), Drake and Charlotte have adult time over drinks or sushi. At Hamasaku in Westwood, adjacent to Brentwood, the owners actually named one of their rolls after Mrs. Pruitt, one of their most loyal customers. "The Charlotte Roll," she says bashfully. "It's lobster, crab, mango, avocado and a tomato relish/salsa. It sounds crazy, but it's amazing!"

WHERE TO GO

Bandera 11700 Wilshire Blvd., Brentwood, 310.477.3524 Brentwood Farmers Market 741 Gretna Green Way, Brentwood, cafarmersmarkets. com Calypso Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.434.9601 Katsuya 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744 Shutters on the Beach 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.1707 Sushi Sasabune 12400 Wilshire Blvd., Brentwood, 310.820.3596 Sweet Rose Creamery Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.2663

BRENTWOOD FARMERS MARKET Charlotte: "It’s so fun to walk over, stroll or take the bike, pick up everything for dinner and then cook that night."

KATSUYA Charlotte: "That’s good when we just want to go out nearby and get a cocktail, get a little bit of sushi, some appetizers."

SUSHI SASABUNE Drake: "A great one on Wilshire that's big, and it’s a little bit like Katsuya, [but] not quite as over-the-top and less of a scene."

SHUTTERS ON THE BEACH (Pictured.) Charlotte: "Probably my favorite thing to do is get Hudson, get the bike and, on a nice day, ride down to Shutters and have breakfast at Coast."

Drake: "Hudson is all about the pancakes."

CALYPSO Charlotte: "They have new merchandise every few weeks and they’ve got really interesting stuff. It’s at the country mart and they just expanded. It’s really one of the better Calypso stores I've ever been in."

SWEET ROSE CREAMERY Charlotte: "My favorite [ice cream] is the mint with the homemade chocolate chips."

BANDERA Charlotte: "My favorite restaurant here in Brentwood that I would go to every night is Bandera. OK, first of all, the grilled artichoke or the dip duo—just order them both, because they’re both delicious. And the Flying Tuna Platter—I mean, I could eat that every night. It’s so romantic in there—they have the music going, it’s a good atmosphere. Amazing drinks."

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KATY SWEET | CHEVIOT HILLS

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ven L.A. residents sometimes furrow their brows at the mention of Cheviot Hills, a residential neighborhood south of Century City and north of Culver City, easy to miss unless you find yourself on winding Motor Avenue, the neighborhood's main street. With a charm reminiscent of a simpler time—pristine Colonial homes, some painted in candylike pastels, with emerald lawns and manicured gardens—Cheviot Hills seemed to public relations consultant Katy Sweet a sweet place to make a home with her husband. "When my husband and I were first engaged, we were looking for a place that was both convenient—my office was in Beverly Hills and his in Culver City—and had a certain amount of charm. We fell in love with Cheviot Hills!" However delightful she finds her patch of Los Angeles, Sweet, whose surname is befitting her warm personality, enjoys venturing out to experience the benefits of metropolitan life. "Since Cheviot Hills is residential, we rely on the surrounds for shopping, restaurants and entertainment," she says. For someone who represents clients such as the Montage Beverly Hills (which hosts an acclaimed restaurant, Scarpetta), as well as wineries such as Rosenblum Cellars, Sweet often makes good food a part of her day or night on the town.

LANDMARK THEATRES + WESTSIDE TAVERN "We might catch a movie at the Landmark nearby. The Westside Tavern is adjacent to it and is a terrific place for an early dinner. Chef Warren Schwartz is amazing! We’re crazy about the spit-roasted chicken and can make a meal out of their crispy green beans with aioli dipping sauce."

PASTINA TRATTORIA (Pictured.) "It’s been around forever and has a real local following. Their spaghetti and meatballs are the best! We love to bring along a bottle of our favorite wine. Right now, we’re in love with Rosenblum Zinfandels."

KOUTOUBIA "Also on Westwood Boulevard is this fun Moroccan restaurant with terrific food. When friends come in from out of town, we love taking them there."

WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY "We’re only five minutes from Century City, so we do most of our shopping at the Westfield mall. Love Gulfstream, and I can always find what I want at their Bloomingdale’s."

RANCHO PARK GOLF COURSE "Very popular and an easy walk. While we haven’t played golf in years, we enjoy their little coffee shop for an occasional breakfast."

CHEVIOT HILLS RECREATION CENTER "Love walking around the Recreation Center off Motor [Avenue].

Beautiful green lawns, tennis courts and a pool. It’s a popular setting for TV and film shoots."

SCARPETTA "For Sunday brunch, our favorite is Scarpetta at the Montage. Their gorgeous open chef’s kitchen is piled high with the most decadent entrees."

MAMA'S ORIGINAL PIZZA AND PASTA "The best.

And they deliver! After that, we need to walk a lot!"

WHERE TO GO Cheviot Hills Recreation Center 2551 Motor Ave., Cheviot Hills, 310.837.5186 Koutoubia 2116 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, 310.475.0729 Landmark Theatres 10850 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.281.8223 Mama's Original Pizza and Pasta 3311 Motor Ave., West L.A., 310.204.6262 Pastina Trattoria 2260 Westwood Blvd., Westwood, 310.441.4655 Rancho Park Golf Course 10460 W. Pico Blvd., Cheviot Hills, 310.838.7373 Scarpetta Montage Beverly Hills, 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7800 Westfield Century City 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3770 Westside Tavern 10850 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.470.1539

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2/2/12 9:52 AM 2/14/12 5:52 PM

where abouts The City of Angels is the most vibrant city in the Western Hemisphere and one of its most diverse.

The area generally referred to as L.A. is actually made up of numerous cities and neighborhoods.

Here’s our guide to the most visited among them.

IAN WHITE

CITY INDEX

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BEVERLY HILLS SANTA MONICA WEST HOLLYWOOD HOLLYWOOD DOWNTOWN PASADENA THE VALLEY SOUTH BAY MAPS

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exploring

Beverly Hills

Beverly Hills is a luxury lover’s mecca: designer shopping, fine dining, mansions.

Century City, Westwood and Culver City are pockets with their own draws.

Few neighborhoods match Beverly Hills’ grip on the popular imagination, thanks to a history studded with more celebrity and excess than an Aaron Spelling TV series. Today, luxury juggernauts lure well-heeled shoppers to Rodeo Drive, while the mansions of famous locals past and present draw busloads of lookyloos. Nearby cities and neighborhoods stake their own claims to L.A.’s affections, including skyscraper-speckled Century City, known for business and high-end shopping; Westwood, home to UCLA; and Culver City, an emerging dining and cultural destination steeped in entertainment industry history.

THE MANSIONS

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more economically diverse than Tinseltown might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents, including the Cruises and the Beckhams.

Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour or book ahead with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s nearly six square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English revival-style Greystone Mansion & Park, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE

From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the

RUSH STREET AND KIRK DOUGLAS THEATRE, EDWIN SANTIAGO; TWO RODEO, BJARNE G. JENSEN. OPPOSITE: ian white

From left: Rush Street bar and Kirk Douglas Theatre, both in Culver City; Two Rodeo in Beverly Hills

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new in town

Chanel on Rodeo Drive

Confidential

Classy underground speakeasy specializes in table-side mixology. 424 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.8511

G-Star Raw

Two stories filled with men’s and women’s premium denim. 413 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.5098

Vosges Haut-Chocolat

Market/cafe selling exotic artisan truffles, pastries and other confections plus Blue Bottle coffee drinks. 311 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.3621

Wolfgang Puck at the Hotel Bel-Air

Remodeled hotel’s indoor-outdoor restaurant serves Puck’s take on Cal-Med cuisine. 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air, 310.909.1644

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shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Tom Ford and Lanvin each recently opened flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the states.

Ascend the Italian-esque side street to Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Beverly Hilton Hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS

Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris, Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just three of the entertainment business powerhouses based here. Witness fierce negotiations and wooing over Cobb salads at The Grill on the Alley on Dayton Way and Spago on Cañon. The city’s cultural treasure-troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Promising even more cultural programming is the forthcoming Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which is transforming the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

CENTURY CITY

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.3-squaremile modern acropolis of Century City. International Creative Management and Creative

Artists Association are located here, as is a Fox Studio lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Just past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, with luxury boutiques and dining venues to rival those of Beverly Hills. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio draws epicures to his acclaimed restaurant Craft and lower-priced Craftbar. Steps away, The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA

A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country.

Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum of Cultural History and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden in the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the seven-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens (100 Stein Plaza Driveway). The Hammer Museum is nearby and houses works by Degas and Rembrandt as well as contemporary works and installations.

Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE

Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafes among its art deco and Mediterranean Revival buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin Theater and the Village Theater across the street. The tower-topped Village Theatre (built circa 1931) is a favorite for movie premieres and thus prime star-spotting

territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on LeConte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY

Covering five square miles about four miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City has benefited from a polish in the past few years, and now boasts a thriving downtown. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage excellent live productions throughout the year. Traveling east on Washington, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms, including Room & Board and H.D. Buttercup.

Moving along, the hip and scene-y Arts District has one of the highest concentration of art galleries and exhibition spaces in L.A.; more than 30 are clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards including hot spot Corey Helford Gallery and district pioneer Blum & Poe. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City that claims the official motto “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened at 10202 W. Washington Blvd.

Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on the lots of the pioneering movie studio. The stately Thomas H. Ince Studio opened in 1918. Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with the ABC series Cougar Town among the productions filming at Culver Studios, and the Spider-Man franchise among the hits produced on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking a studio tour at Sony.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 108–109.

great find

LET THERE BE LIGHT Whether you’re preserving an American bungalow, returning a painted lady to her original glory or injecting midcentury modern flair into your rambler, you’ve inevitably learned that period-perfect functional lighting is maddeningly elusive. Enter the folks at Rejuvenation, who share your passion for details. Founded in 1977 as an architectural salvage shop, the Portland, Oregon-based company recently chose Culver City’s design- and charm-steeped Helms Bakery district as the location for its third retail store. Finally: handcrafted, made-toorder, authentic reproduction American lighting, plus hardware and a smattering of complementary furniture and interesting salvage finds, right at your fingertips, no Dumpster-diving or rewiring required. 8780 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.400.1872, rejuvenation.com

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exploring

Santa Monica

From left: Parker Mesa Overlook in Pacific Palisades; the Venice canals; Pacific Park at Santa Monica Pier

as Ye Olde King’s Head that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats.

Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 50 boutiques and a top-level Dining Deck with a food court, upscale restaurants and a gourmet marketplace. East on Broadway is the legendary Fred Segal, an emporium of high-end shops on each side of 5th Street.

Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a miniamusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

MORE HOT BLOCKS

Northeast of Third Street Promenade, the stretch of tree-lined Montana Avenue between 6th and 17th streets is busy, but still pleasant. Its boutiques including Anat B., Aura, Roseark and LF are of a more independent variety than those lining the promenade. Father’s Office, known

this page and opposite: ian white

In the 1800s, a real estate agent called Santa Monica “the Santa Monica has Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of the approachable vibe of a beach town Santa Monica fulfills its early promise with a bustling downtown and beach that draw millions of visitors per year. By the shore with the benefits are athletic activities and the West Coast’s most famous pier; of a major city— on dry land are shops that suit a variety of tastes and hundreds nightlife, dining, of dining options. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with entertainment and destinations such as Malibu, Topanga and Brentwood. shopping galore.

Malibu, Venice tHIRD STREET + THE PIER Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and and Brentwood Wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas or gawk at the myriad street artists. are appealing If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along 3rd, visitors can venture to the surrounding options nearby. blocks to Ivy at the Shore or the Misfit, and enjoy drinks at Pourtal or the many pubs such

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Robert Irwin’s Central Garden at the Getty Center in Brentwood

new in town Lanvin

A petite boutique focuses on Alber Elbaz’s swim and resort-wear collections. Malibu Village, 3826 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.6808

Milo & Olive

Petite pizzeria and bakery from the chef/owner team behind Rustic Canyon.

2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776

Splendid

Colorful, comfortable clothing basics for women, men and children. 1324 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.6749

Tint

Concept salon offers a menu of express and affordable hair-coloring services. 1422-B 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.395.5888

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for its stellar burger, Locanda Portofino and R+D Kitchen are tops for dining; dessert lovers might venture to Sweet Lady Jane for its famous cakes, adored by celebs.

Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street is a quieter destination that still retains Santa Monica’s beachyupscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, restaurants, British pubs and boutiques (mostly femme-friendly) such as Monkie, Hiptique and Paris 1900. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speak-easy, Basement Tavern.

THE ARTS

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performing arts center that hosts pop and classical music concerts, film, dance and theater.

As L.A. has emerged as a fine-arts capital, the campuslike Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave.) has become an important destination. It’s home to 30 galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art and a cafe.

MALIBU

Twenty miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Stars have made their homes here since the 1920s when May Rindge, the eccentric wife of an heir who once owned all of Malibu, began inviting celebs to live in Malibu Colony to pay the legal bills she racked up from fighting developers.

Much of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, such as the many restaurants with ocean views, from the supercasual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Geoffrey’s).

Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard shopping centers, there are enough trendy shops and restaurants to while away an afternoon.

Inland, nearing Calabasas, are many wineries such as Malibu Family Wines and Sip Malibu, which offer tastings. Malibu Discovery Tours hosts tours of the region.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES

In the counterculture 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessed by long, winding Topanga Canyon Boulevard from PCH. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty. Dining is best by the burbling creek at restaurants such as Abuelitas and Inn of the Seventh Ray. Pine Tree Circle has a lovely bistro and a few boutiques and galleries.

There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park. Cafes and upscale mom-and-pop shops such as Elyse Walker and the Prince’s Table can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. One relatively unknown gem is the SelfRealization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset, a breathtaking oasis on 10 acres with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake.

The resplendent Getty Villa, often mistakenly identified as being in Malibu, is in Pacific Palisades. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

Advance timed tickets are required.

VENICE

Abbot Kinney famously won the land that would become Venice in a coin toss. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, today lined with sleek modern homes and million-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina restaurant, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Alexis Bittar, Heist and Vamp are the main attractions. Looky-loos love to stroll Ocean Front Walk to ogle the street vendors and performers, or bodybuilders at Muscle Beach.

BRENTWOOD

Reese Witherspoon, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner are some of the celebrities who live in this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafes and restaurants between Bundy Drive and where San Vicente becomes Federal Avenue. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, maintains a retro farmhouse charm but keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale.

The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.

MARINA DEL REY

Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest manmade small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants in the fisherman’s wharf are positioned to take advantage of the views. You can rent kayaks from UCLA Marina Aquatic Center (14001 Fiji Way), or shop and dine at Waterside at the Marina, located at Lincoln Boulevard and Fiji Way. For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 108.

great find

SNAP TO IT Ironically, as digital photography technology gets better and better, it’s gotten trendier to emulate the flaws, vibrant colors and deep saturation of vintage photos; just look at the number of iPhone apps devoted to getting the look. Thus, the arrival of the Lomography Gallery Store to Santa Monica is perfectly timed to capture the trend. Peruse the fashionable, inexpensive analog cameras such as La Sardina, a 35mm in stylish graphic patterns, and the Diana, a flashy gold model with a chain strap that couldn’t look more chic around a neck. Also find films, film-processing services and an array of workshops for budding Lomographers. Get creative without commitment: Visitors can check out loaner cameras.

312 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.6968

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MAVE_

Explore over 150 shops, restaurants and services from 6th to 17th streets in Santa Monica.

stacia 808 11th street, 310.393.7100 shopstacia.com

LonDon soLE 1331 Montana ave, 310.255.0937 londonsole.com

The Stacia Ecoknits collection is designed locally in Santa Monica by designer Stacy Johnson. The sustainable bamboo knits are friendly to the earth and feel great against your skin. The colorful knitwear collection includes cardigans, dresses, sweaters, scarves, caftans, and ponchos all made in luxurious, washable bamboo.

Visit the new beach bungalow inspired boutique and discover bamboo!

London Sole offers the world’s largest collection of ballet flats, ballerina pumps, classic driving loafers and other exquisite traditional flat footwear from designer Jane Winkworth. The Montana and San Francisco boutiques are hot spots for celebrities who have fallen in love with the simple, sophisticated and sometimes bold designs.

Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 11am-5pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm; Sun 11am-6pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

stEP sHoEs 1004 Montana ave, 310.899.4409

tHREE BaGs FULL

taLa JEWELRy 1302 Montana ave, 310.319.0407 talajewelry.com

Step Shoes offers the finest European quality footwear with brands such as Thierry Rabotin, Aguatalia, Cordani, Cydwoq, Mephisto MBT, Isabella Fiore and many more. In addition to its selection of comfortable and classy shoes, Step Shoes has a variety of distinctive handbags and fun accessories to choose from. Step Shoes is where style and comfort come together in total harmony.

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 12pm-5pm

the sweater store

716 Montana ave, 310.395.5559 threebagsfull.com Featuring the very best in American and European knitwear. Style, service and versatility–we make travel easy and elegant–small to 2x. From the simplest cotton cardigan to luxurious handknits, Three Bags Full has got you covered.

Mon 10am-5pm; Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Open most Sundays 11am-5pm. Call first.

Montana EyEs 709 Montana ave, 310.917.4474 Do you accessorize with eyewear? Or, are you in the market for that perfect new pair of prescription glasses? Montana Eyes has showcased high-end eyewear for twenty years. This special boutique has any style to suit your needs: from the hottest trends to custom-frames and vintage specs. Come see for yourself why Hollywood stars shop at Montana Eyes.

Tala is Montana Avenue’s newest sparkling addition. Tala is focused on quality and craftsmanship as well as showcasing today’s hottest and most original designers.

Italian designers Fope and Piero Milano along with Turkish designs from Gurhan are in-store, in addition to an eclectic and fresh mix of American designers including Aaron Basha, Pandora, Bochic and Chad Allison. If you love jewelry, you’ll love Tala.

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm

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expLoring

West Hollywood

Trends in fashion, design and food often begin in L.A., and many of those innovations can be traced to the pioneering community of West Hollywood.

For a municipality measuring less than two square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a disproportionate number of world-class art galleries, fashion boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike. The city, often referred to as WeHo, is home to a large and influential gay community, protective of the city’s cultural development and quality of life. West Hollywood and the adjacent Mid-City West area celebrate diversity, as hipsters live in harmony with senior citizens and immigrants.

SunSet Strip

after dark, this iconic stretch of sunset Boulevard between doheny drive and crescent heights avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in l.a. county. the club scene rocks here with many legendary establishments. The Roxy, Whisky a go-go and rainbow Bar have a long history of hosting performances from rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. other sunset strip nightclubs include the Viper Room and the key club. the comedy store continues to showcase the leading names in standup as well as emerging stars. during the day, boutiques such as live! on sunset and beloved Book soup draw traffic. hotels are an integral part of the sunset strip scene. chateau marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway.

Skybar, at the style-conscious mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. at the sunset tower hotel, Bugsy siegel’s former suite has been converted into the tower Bar.

SunSet pLAZA

sunset plaza, between la cienega and san vicente Boulevards on sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking, a novelty

the grove, christopher ian smith; farmers market and mel’s drive-in, ian White. opposite: monica nouWens

From left: The Grove; Farmers Market; Mel’s Drive-In on the Sunset Strip

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The Broad Contemporary Art Museum at Los Angeles County Museum of Art

new in town

Blushington Makeup & Beauty Lounge Professional makeup and beauty services for a song. 8591 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.5874

Madison Gallery

Madison’s more sophisticated sister store sells Proenza Schouler, Chloé, Alexander Wang and more. 8741 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.275.1930

Make Up For Ever

The makeup brand’s first freestanding store sells the full product line and offers video-recorded beauty lessons.132 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.289.1758

Monika Chiang

Boyfriend sweaters, cashmere coats, vixenlike stiletto pumps and other accessories fill out this classic-with-an-edge boutique, designer Chiang’s first. 108 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.786.8200

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in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl. For up-to-theminute fashion, check out the collections at Oliver Peoples or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. And after splurging for an outfit that’s all the rage in St. Barts, settle into one of several chic cafes, whose tables spill onto the sidewalk.

MELROSE AVENUE

Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street with multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has an eclectic mix of indie boutiques, cafes and coffeehouses interspersed with tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland and Ed Hardy have wild façades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Fred Segal, Diane von Furstenburg, TenOverSix and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the quiet, fashionable three-block street of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Frédéric Fekkai and cutting-edge boutiques such as Zero + Maria Cornejo or Chloé.

THE AVENUES

Melrose Avenue’s massive Pacific Design Center is the hub of L.A.’s flourishing art, fashion and design district known as the Avenues, which runs along Melrose Avenue and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. The complex itself—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—is itself noteworthy (you’ll either love it or hate it), but its 1.2 million square feet houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury homeowners. PDC is also home to a

satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

BEVERLY + WEST 3rd

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street are major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, filled with trendy restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, whose design is reminiscent of Paris’ Pompidou Center. Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Fendi, Gucci, Prada and the Capital Grille are among more than 160 establishments drawing consumers.

On 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as Satine, Alexis Bittar for jewelry and Eggy for highend children’s attire. There are many dining options such as Suzanne Goin’s AOC, plus a branch of Manhattan’s Magnolia Bakery. On Beverly Boulevard, you can browse vintage Gucci or Lanvin at Beige, or score unique handcrafted shoes at Calleen Cordero.

Afterward, you can experience contemporary American cuisine at Eva Restaurant or modern Latin cooking at Playa.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD

Beverly Hills may be the toniest shopping district in L.A., but West Hollywood’s Robertson Boulevard is not far behind, particularly if you’re young and hot and have your own reality show. The celebutante set hits Kitson for posh bags, Zimmerman for haute swimwear and AllSaints Spitalfields for a nouveau-goth look. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a Bellini with crab cakes on the picket-

fenced patio of Ivy Restaurant, where famous faces practically outnumber those of civilians.

FAIRFAX DISTRICT

Technically part of the city of Los Angeles, the Fairfax District is one of the most culturally diverse and artsy neighborhoods in the West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned multifaceted facility with more than 100,000 works from around the world.

The Broad Contemporary Art Museum, designed by architect Renzo Piano, showcases art from the contemporary and modern eras, while the latest additions to the LACMA campus include the Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavilion and Ray’s & Stark Bar. Adjacent to LACMA is the Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits. Additional venues at this formidable Museum Row include the Petersen Automotive Museum and Craft & Folk Art Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious foodies: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed Ethiopian restaurants are located. Be prepared to eat with your hands!

One of the district’s anchors is the historic Farmers Market, with more than 100 open-air produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, taquería and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo and Korean barbecue. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrian-only shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass street lamps and central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as J. Crew and Splendid are joined by eateries and restaurants.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of West Hollywood, see pages 108–109.

great find

RAISING THE STANDARD The modern mercantile, stocked with well-designed, timeless and functional products, has gained traction in recent years by offering alternatives to the plastic flotsam of the big box stores. Among L.A.’s most carefully honed is Standard Goods, owned by Band of Outsiders alum Garrett Colton. In addition to designing belts, frames, boxers and even socks for the store—items conceived to replace substandard versions in his own wardrobe—Colton makes unerringly sharp clothing, home, music and literary picks that include vintage polos, Good Flock wool iPad cases, L.A.-based Wolfum textiles, Tracy Wilkinson ceramic planters and Swedish Our Legacy men’s button-downs. Quite simply, it’s good stuff, made to last.

7151 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.965.0600, standard-goods.com

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c t c la

M V

AT THE INTERSECTION OF PAST & PRESENT.

ince 1934, the Original Farmers Market has stood at the crossroads of Los Angeles history and culture. Today, it remains one of the last of the Hollywood legends, attracting people from all over the world to enjoy its eclectic mix of restaurants, grocers, shops and the best people watching the city has to offer. In a world ruled by change, the Original Farmers Market stands as an enduring landmark, steadfast at the junction of then and now, on the corner of Third and Fairfax.

Market events and activities throughout the year.

Visit www.farmersmarketla.com for calendars and updates.

®

“MEET ME AT THIRD

&

FAIRFAX”

6333 W. THIRD ST., LOS ANGELES, CA 90036 • 323.933.9211 OR 866.993.9211 MONDAY–FRIDAY 9AM–9PM • SATURDAY 9AM–8PM • SUNDAY 10AM–7PM 036-041_WHolly_WLA.indd 39

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PYRRHA

4 3

5

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8315 West 3rd Street (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

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Couture loungewear and pajamas designed by Renee Claire and made in L.A. Also featuring fine bedding and gifts.

BEDHEAD PAJAMAS 8336 West 3rd Street (323) 653-8336 bedheadpjs.com

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Handmade sterling silver and 14k gold jewelry cast from 19th-century wax seals rich in inspirational imagery.

CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD CRESCENT HEIGHTS BLVD

WEST 3RD STREET

The Orlando on Third, a fashionable, boutique hotel in a vibrant, urban neighborhood. Enjoy a taste of living L.A.!

ORLANDO HOTEL 8384 West 3rd Street (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com

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SWEETZER AVE SWEETZER AVE SWEETZER AVE SWEET-

LA CIENEGA BLVD LA CIENEGA BLVD LA CIENEGA BLVD

W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET W. 3RD STREET

Contemporary children’s clothing, toys and accessories.

EGGY

8365 West 3rd Street (323) 658-8882 shopeggy.com

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Edgy, yet high-end and delicate, this one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories line is designed and handmade in L.A.

M. COHEN

8362 West 3rd Street (323) 782-0600 mcohendesigns.com

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exploring

Hollywood

From left: The Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Hollyhock House; Hollywood Walk of Fame; carousel in Griffith Park in Los Feliz

“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was in the midst of its decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has reemerged as a bona fide destination. Amid a spirit of transformation, the neon lights on Hollywood Boulevard’s landmark movie palaces are fired up again, as waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals. This new Golden Age of Hollywood marks the best time to visit in decades.

Hollywood + Highland

The Hollywood & Highland Center has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Kodak Theatre is the home of the Academy Awards and new Cirque du Soleil show Iris, which premiered last year. The center’s shops are varied, including Lucky Brand and Louis Vuitton, and it boasts two nightclubs, the Highlands and Level 3. The central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign. Built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 50-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland.” Next door to Hollywood & Highland is Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, famous for its celebrity handprints embedded in the cement out front. The theater remains a favorite venue for Hollywood premieres.

SHOWTIME

Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s animated releases combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and childrenpleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including Wicked, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing headlining musicians.

THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE: IAN WHITE

Hollywood is reclaiming its legendary glamour, and once-bohemian Los Feliz and Silver Lake are sharing in Tinseltown’s new Golden Age.

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new in town The Annex

geren lockhart, designer of geren ford, offers her women’s clothing collection and favorite products. By appointment only.

1034 Seward St., Hollywood, 213.689.9500

Babycakes NYC

Vegan cupcakes and other health-conscious treats. 236 n. larchmont Blvd., l.a., 855.462.2292

Goorin Bros. Hat Shop

pseudo-vintage millinery offers a stunning selection of toppers: newsboy caps, fedoras, cloches, beanies and more. 1411/2 larchmont Blvd., l.a., 323.463.2006

L&E Oyster Bar

Several varieties nightly of the namesake bivalve plus other seafood options, wine and beer. 1637 Silverlake Blvd., Silver lake, 323.660.2255

Griffith Observatory in Griffith Park

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Walk of fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry.

More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath the feet of tourists, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is appropriately located in front of the Capitol Records Building, the structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

museums, HollYWooD-sTYle

Hollywood has its museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet, or even a T. rex skeleton. Next to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends Clark Gable and Audrey Hepburn to contemporary icons such as Justin Timberlake and Lady Gaga.

You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Records Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum offers bizarre exhibitions on double-headed animals and shrunken human heads. Serious movie buffs, however, head to the Hollywood Museum, which occupies four floors of the historic Max Factor Building. Among the 10,000 costumes and artifacts on display are Indiana Jones’ whip, Rocky Balboa’s boxing gloves and W.C. Fields’ top hat.

aRouND VINe

The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hol-

lywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie and Drai’s rooftop club. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo.

Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia.

A couple of blocks west is the stylish minicomplex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by other hip boutiques.

NIGHTCRaWlING

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its endless nightlife opportunities, and a lively bar and club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-themed Hemingway’s, or attempt to get past the velvet ropes at MyHouse and Supperclub. Cahuenga Boulevard also hosts dozens of clubs.

Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to October. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. Nearby is the Ford Amphitheatre, featuring a more intimate environment for international music, dance and family fare.

los felIZ + sIlVeR lake

These neighborhoods are among the bestkept secrets in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Newer lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication.

A once-forgotten stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz now hosts trendy boutiques such as Confederacy and restaurants including cult fave Umami Burger. Fully transformed is Silver Lake Boulevard, now crowded with eateries and upscale retailers.

At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica Boulevards intersect and the eponymous music festival takes place every summer, is where Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea.

GRIffITH PaRk

The largest urban park in America, this sprawling swath is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at the Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent filming location. The hike up Mount Hollywood (three miles round trip) provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the nearby Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue.

Also located in Griffith Park is the underrated Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western heritage-oriented Autry National Center, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 109–110.

great find

SHOP TO THE BEAT Let’s face it: Not every girl can rock an ‘80s-era lace-bibbed blouse or bow-bedecked taffeta party dress with panache. (Note: Heavy bangs, smoky eye makeup and a dose of irony help.) But if you are among the plucky few, Telltale Hearts in Silver Lake will get your pulse racing. Owners Melissa Patchett and Brandy Linstrum combine their fashion design, vintage hunting and online shopping expertise to create a hip and fun boutique filled with fashion and accessories from the ‘70s and ‘80s, deftly complemented with contemporary basics from edgy brands such as Kain Label and Something Else. The resulting looks are so fresh, affordable and surprisingly wearable, you may discover that you’re that girl after all. 1837 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.522.6725, telltaleheartbeat.com

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Š2011 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 11-ADV-11215

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explorinG

Downtown

From left: City Hall; signage in Grand Central Market; the Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall

Beverly Hills and Venice Beach may be favorite tourist attractions, but downtown should not be overlooked. Historic art deco structures share the streetscape with glass- or titaniumclad masterpieces, and even movie stars are snapping up hip lofts carved out of turn-of-the-century structures. The city’s arts scene roars to life in downtown, a place where the usual image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies.

Union Station

The ornate Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but Union Station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From Union Station, the hub of the Metro system, you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or the light rail Gold Line to Pasadena and Blue Line to Long Beach. From here, nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7, Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and you can jump on an Amtrak train for a scenic journey along the coast.

Grand avenUe + MUSiC Center

The heart of L.A.’s performing arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at The Music Center. The 3,200-seat Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to the Los Angeles Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions.

The flashiest Music Center venue is architect Frank Gehry’s curvaceous, jaw-dropping Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Its young music director, Gustavo Dudamel, exudes an energy that rivals the building’s audacious design. Also housed at Disney Hall, with a separate entrance around the corner, is REDCAT, which offers performance and visual arts productions. Patina offers elegant feasts inside Disney Hall.

FROM LEFT: SARAH HADLEy; IAn wHITE; ASHOk SInHA. OPPOSITE: IAn wHITE

L.A.’s urban center reflects the cultural diversity, worldclass architecture and dynamic commerce that makes the city a superstar on the global stage.

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new in town Artisan House

Restaurant-bar-deli-market uses locally farmed and boutique ingredients. 600 S. Main St., downtown, 213.622.6333

Bar Thirteen

Thirteenth-floor cocktail bar with entertainment from burlesque performers and jazz bands. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770

One-Eyed Gypsy

Sumptuous 1930s-styled cocktail bar filled with vintage carnival games.

901 E. 1st St., downtown

The Bradbury Building is an iconic example of Italian Renaissance Revival architecture.

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DESCENDING BUNKER HILL

Steps from the Music Center is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed

by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), Southern California’s premier contemporary art museum.

The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent. Nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery amid the concrete jungle.

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest Railway in the World” (just 298 feet!); a ride costs 25 cents. At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi.

Across the street is the Los Angeles Public Library, an art deco masterpiece.

OLVERA STREET

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is still just 9 cents.

HISTORIC DISTRICTS

Often overlooked by tourists is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces ablaze in neon. A few, such as the Orpheum Theatre, have been restored to their original grandeur. Historic structures are being converted into lofts; Johnny Depp owns a condo in Broadway’s Eastern Columbia Building. The Bradbury Building (304 S. Broadway), built in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street, from 4th to 7th streets, is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of hip bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes Las Perlas and Mignon.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters.

The Jewelry District draws shoppers to markets such as St. Vincent Jewelry Center (650 S. Hill St.), where 500 merchants offer gold, diamonds and baubles. In the neighboring Fashion District, 115 blocks centered around the California Market Center, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. And for an awesome array of produce and international foods, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. Many vendors here deal in cash only.

CHINATOWN

Chinatown remains a great destination for sampling dim sum or browsing for authentic clothing, tea or home furnishings. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple (750 Yale St.) and the Chinese American Museum. Pedestrian-oriented Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are now home to galleries and Mountain Bar, while Broadway boasts cool boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

LITTLE TOKYO

Little Tokyo is still a proud ethnic enclave, but it, too, is emerging as an up-and-coming hipster ’hood. The dining scene is popping, led by newer restaurants such as Aburiya

Toranoko, and you can still nibble on traditional sushi prepared by veteran chefs at Japanese Village Plaza. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek, glass-ensconced Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a Frank Gehry-renovated branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the historic Cathedral of Saint Vibiana, formerly home of the Los Angeles Archdiocese.

L.A. LIVE

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project has been called the epicenter of the downtown renaissance. Staples Center, home to the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, hosts top pop acts, as does Nokia Theatre L.A. Live, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The adjoining Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and clubs— Katsuya, WP24 and the Conga Room, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with towering LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

EXPOSITION PARK

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. The sevenacre Exposition Park Rose Garden is legendary, and the Beaux-Arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. Other attractions include the California African American Museum and the California Science Center with its 3-D IMAX theater. The science center is the future home of space shuttle Endeavour.

Farther west of Exposition Park is the jazz and blues capital of Leimert Park; south is Watts, home of the Watts Towers.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of downtown, see page 109.

DENIM DEALS L.A.-based designer denim darling J Brand made dark wash skinny jeans closet staples, but at prices in the $200 range, most wallets feel the pinch. So the discovery of the J Brand Factory Outlet downtown, where prices are half that of normal retail prices (or sometimes even less), is a little like finding a forgotten roll of $20 bills in the back pocket of freshly laundered pants. Here, you can find denim shorts, corduroy leggings and, of course, jeans in all of the hottest fits and washes, in the full range of sizes and in the current season’s styles. Buy a few pairs and congratulate yourself on your incredibly stylish sense of economy. 1225 E. Washington Blvd., downtown, 213.748.1408, jbrandjeans.com

ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/OLGA BOSNAK

great find

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hollywood on hollywood blvd. • +1-323-464-7625 at universal citywalk • +1-818-622-7625 hardrock.com ©2011 Hard Rock International (USA), Inc. All rights reserved. SeeTheShow™

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exploring

Pasadena

Pasadena, aka the Crown City, brings a blend of small-town charm and cosmopolitan energy. Eagle Rock, Glendale and the San Gabriel Valley are also worth discovering.

Just minutes from downtown via the historic Arroyo Seco Parkway or the Metro Gold Line train, Pasadena is no ordinary bedroom community. The Craftsman-style bungalows in its leafy neighborhoods hint of a world-renowned architectural heritage, and institutions such as the Tournament of Roses, Caltech and NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, nearby, give the community a gravitas far beyond its size. In neighboring San Gabriel Valley communities, additional treasures await.

Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut Street and Del Mar Boulevard, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the once-neglected district contains restored buildings and the city’s trendiest boutiques, bistros and nightclubs.

Pedestrian-only alleys meander through One Colorado, where an eclectic collection of restaurants have alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square.

A few steps east of Old Pasadena lies Paseo Colorado, an inviting shopping center with ArcLight Cinemas and upscale shops such as Brighton Collectibles, Coach and BCBG Max Azria lining garden promenades. A wide variety of dining options is offered at this mixeduse development, whose open-air design frames views of such historic structures as soaring Pasadena City Hall (100 N. Garfield Ave.), restored to its original Beaux-Arts grandeur.

Playhouse District

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district is filled with upscale antique shops, boutiques and dining rooms with ornate façades. Also present is the Le Cordon Bleu-affiliated College of Culinary Arts, with a restaurant open to the public, and the famed Ice House comedy club. The neighboring Boston Court Performing Arts Center presents dramas and musicals. The pagoda-crowned Pacific Asia Museum features exotic

from left: amy k. fellows; edwin santiago; bjarne g. jensen. opposite: edwin santiago

From left: The streets of Old Pasadena; Pasadena City Hall; Colorado Street Bridge

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new in town Chi Dynasty

california meets china at this new eatery at the americana at Brand; the chinese chicken salad is a favorite. 769 americana Way, glendale, 818.500.9888

Congregation Ale House

craft beer is a religion at this hip gastropub. 300 s. raymond ave., Pasadena, 626.403.2337

Sephora

the cosmetics cornucopia arrives in Old town. 13 W. colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.683.3100

Vol. 94

globally sourced wines and small plates in downtown Pas. 239 e. colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.356.9494

The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino

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decorative arts from every corner of Asia, and the Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State painters and sculptors from 1850 to the present. Dining choices include Pie ’n Burger, a favorite Caltech dive.

Just east of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. At the Commons and Burlington Arcade, charming boutiques are set around European-style courtyards. A drive farther south on Lake Avenue reveals the opulent, historic Langham, Huntington Hotel.

Orange grOve BOulevard

This wide boulevard, once called Millionaire’s Row, is still lined with splendid estates, including the former Wrigley Mansion, which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association and is open for tours. The immediate neighborhood features the legacy of architects Frank Lloyd Wright, Wallace Neff and Paul Williams. The genius of Greene & Greene, pioneers of the Arts & Crafts movement, is evident at the Gamble House, also open to the public.

Just around the corner on Colorado Boulevard is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in America.

The galleries at this small museum are filled with masterpieces from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and its repertoire of Impressionist masters (Monet, Cézanne, van Gogh) is impressive. It also features extensive art from India and a tribute to Degas in a lovely sculpture garden.

San MarInO + SOuTH PaSadena

In the exclusive residential community of San Marino is the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens, one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here the beautifully restored Itali-

anate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington is packed with 18th- and 19thcentury art including Thomas Gainsborough’s Blue Boy and Sir Thomas Lawrence’s Pinkie. A library with 600,000 rare books and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than one dozen distinct botanical environments, re-creating native habitats from England, China and elsewhere. Tea service is offered in a cottage amid a formal rose garden.

Directly south of Old Pasadena is the independent municipality of South Pasadena, a shady, tranquil community. The Mission West historic district, particularly Mission Street, is packed with antique shops, galleries and cafes. The town is particularly kidfriendly, thanks to adorable shops such as the Dinosaur Farm and Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a 1915 restored drugstore with a soda fountain.

eagle rOCK + glendale

Just west of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town that is reinventing itself as a hip neighborhood with an understated boho-chic vibe. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is suddenly lined with one trendy cafe after another, from Vietnamese to French to vegetarian—plus Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. Students from Occidental College, where a young Barack Obama studied, mingle with young couples who have snapped up the hillside real estate.

On the other side of Eagle Rock is Glendale. In this, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County, office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, a buzzing open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development.

Here style-savvy shoppers can find value at H&M or splurge at exclusive boutiques such as Kate Spade. It’s a great place for a movie followed by an alfresco snack from Crumbs

Bake Shop or sushi and cocktails at the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya. The Glendale Galleria shopping center is adjacent.

Glendale’s diverse population—it’s home to one of the largest Armenian communities in America—provides plenty of flavor, including elaborate restaurants. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre (216 N. Brand Blvd.), an art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals.

Just north of downtown Glendale is the delightful community of Montrose, with its homespun shops and all-American diners.

Nearby is sprawling Descanso Gardens, home to North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when fully in bloom during January and February.

San gaBrIel valleY

Kissing Pasadena’s eastern border is Sierra Madre, a quaint community that refuses to be paved over. Arcadia is home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred horse racing venues in the world. Adjacent to the racetrack is Westfield Santa Anita, an ever-expanding shopping center. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peafowl; you might see a flock crossing nearby streets.

The 1771 San Gabriel Mission is a notable landmark in the neighboring city of San Gabriel. The San Gabriel Valley cities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Alhambra and Monterey Park have drawn large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants in recent decades, and some of the best Chinese restaurants in America are found here, including Hong Kong-style seafood houses that are great fun for dim sum brunches.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 110.

great find

DINO-MITE Thanks to The Dinosaur Farm in Pasadena, your search for fossilized dinosaur poop is over.

Here, you’ll find an entire room dedicated to these ancient reptiles, where you can indulge your little budding paleontologist’s interests with everything from droppings to room décor, puzzles, books, costumes and collectible figurines by brands such as Schleich and Papo.

Locals have voted the Dinosaur Farm the best toy store in Pasadena not just for its dinomania, however. The independent shop’s extensive selection of nondinosaur books, arts and crafts, science kits and popular toys such as Ugly Dolls appeal to kids of all ages and interests—and the customer service keeps moms and dads coming back. But really, who can resist a little dino poop? 1510 Mission St., South Pasadena, 626.441.2767, dinosaurfarm.com

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Explore

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J

ust 15 minutes from downtown Los Angeles, and conveniently situated along the Metro Gold Line, Old Pasadena is a vibrant hub of world-class shopping,

dining, arts, and entertainment. Comprised of 22 blocks of nationally-registered historic architecture, Old Pasadena is widely recognized as a premier destination and one of the few truly walkable urban districts in California.

Come explore more than 300 specialty boutiques, exclusive retailers, sidewalk cafés, and fine restaurants in this authentic main street experience.

The only hotel located within Old Pasadena.

Walking distance to 300 shops and restaurants. Full-service accommodations.

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Courtyard by Marriott

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180 N. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.403.7600 marriot.com/laxot

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52 craft beers on tap. Housemade specialty cocktails. Craft eats. Lunch, dinner and late night till 2 am daily.

Experience an ultra-modern facility and hybrid workouts on versatile, “kick-yourtush” equipment. Membership not required.

This famed Old Pasadena trattoria won “Top 10 Best Italian in L.A.” by Citysearch.

The focaccia bread is a must!

Haven Gastropub

Asylum Gym

Louise’s Trattoria

42 S. De Lacey Ave. 626.768.9555 havengastropub.com

87 Fraser Alley 626.584.9600 asylumgymla.com

2-8 E. Colorado Blvd.

626.568.3030 louises.com

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“We’re all about sexy, modern, voluptuous brows.” – ZVJ. Named “Best Brow Studio of Los Angeles”in 2011 by CBS.

Highbeam-ceilings, natural sunlit dining room and plantation chairs make a/k/a a cozy spot for wine country-inspired dining.

Shopping is fun at this high-end designer resale store, offering the best of recent and vintage Chanel, Vuitton, Prada and more!

Zoey Van Jones-Brow Studio

a/k/a

Clothes Heaven

45 E.Union (enter Kendall Alley) 626.683.3308 zoeyvanjones.com

41 Hugus Alley 626.564.8111 akabistro.com

111 E. Union St. 626.440.0929 clothesheaven.com

Join us all year for theater, music and dance performances, classes, events and exhibitions, and the Pasadena Dance Festival April 15-21!

1810 Restaurant brings Argentina to Old Pasadena with authentic cuisine, great wines and charming atmosphere.

A fun and timeless collection of unique architectural pieces perfect for the fashion savvy woman to work, travel and play in.

Lineage Performing Arts Center

1810 Restaurant

OSKA

89 S. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.844.7008 lineagedance.org

121 W. Colorado Blvd.

626.795 5658 1810restaurant.com

13 Douglas Alley 626.720.2147 oska-pasadena.com

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exploring

The Valley

The San Fernando Valley, aka “the other side of the hill,” celebrates the Hollywood spirit.

The Valley is a sprawling collection of bedroom communities whose population approaches 2 million. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge. Universal Studios Hollywood and Universal CityWalk hug a hillside above the Hollywood Freeway, marking the southeastern gateway to the Valley.

Universal City

Just a couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment industry outpost. Universal Studios Hollywood offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking and high-tech action rides such as King Kong 360 3-D, created by film director Peter Jackson. Guests who splurge for Universal’s “VIP Experience” are pampered like stars and can cut to the front of the line for every ride.

Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are sky-diving simulations at iFLY Hollywood, an exhilarating wind tunnel, mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House, stand-up performances at Jon Lovitz Comedy Club and rockand-roll bowling at Jillian’s Hi Life Lanes. Boutiques such as Abercrombie & Fitch and Guess Accessories will loosen your wallet before you take in such diverse acts as Kesha and Judas Priest at the neighboring Gibson Amphitheatre.

Burbank

The “beautiful downtown Burbank” that Johnny Carson used to poke fun at has grown up into a cosmopolitan hub with 80 restaurants, 200 shops and 30 movie screens.

Burbank Town Center (201 E. Magnolia Blvd.) offers a major mall shopping experience, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel with hip shops and trendy bistros such as Granville Café. Magnolia Park, a quaint

FAR LEFT AND FAR RIGHT, EDWIN SANTIAGO; center, rick meyer. OPPOSITE: mark lipski

From left: The NoHo Arts Center in North Hollywood; AMC Walkway in Burbank; Universal CityWalk in Universal City

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commercial district centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, offers cafes, antique shops and boutiques including Encore Nouveau and the Magnolia Commons, where new designs share shelf space with vintage pieces. Porto’s Bakery is renowned for its Cuban confections and sandwiches, and the iconic Bob’s Big Boy hosts a classic car show every Friday. DeBell Golf Club is open to the public and offers a challenging 18-hole course and a par-three course.

If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for convenient, uncongested Bob Hope Airport in Burbank. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and reduces stress, especially for visitors to the San Fernando Valley, Pasadena or San Gabriel Valley communities.

BURBANK’S STUDIOS

While the Valley may be dismissed by Westside hipsters, there’s as much Hollywood going on here as in Hollywood itself, thanks to the presence of several studios in Burbank.

Warner Bros. Studios and NBC Studios offer back-lot tours similar to those at Universal, and all of the studios recruit audience members for tapings of sitcoms and talk shows.

Audiences Unlimited is among the ticketing agencies offering the best opportunities to score free tickets to tapings. For The Tonight Show with Jay Leno, contact NBC directly.

the Everly Brothers, Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture. As it stretches through Studio City, it’s lined with an eclectic mix of eateries, from entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli to elegant Bistro Garden, not to mention a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (Katsu-ya, Asanebo) than Little Tokyo. For shopping, there are hip boutiques including Dari and stylish retreats such as ROB|B by OPI Salon and Belle Visage Day Spa, owned by Kirsten Dunst’s mother. Hip bars and supper clubs including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene. You’ll see plenty of famous faces in the Valley, where celebrities treasure its more family-oriented lifestyle.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laidback trattorias and bistros as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Bloomingdale’s and featuring Betsey Johnson, BCBG Max Azria and Lucky Brand boutiques in a particularly pleasant, upscale environment. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas.

DEEP IN THE VALLEY

Warner Center is a high-rise mixed-use development in Woodland Hills with restaurants such as Roy’s. Neighboring Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Cartier and Hugo Boss, plus anchoring department stores Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and Macy’s.

Farther westbound on the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for clean air and elbow room.

Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas (4799 Commons Way).

A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons.

Air Force One is permanently grounded at the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library & Museum in neighboring Simi Valley.

North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster enthusiasts gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

For bold items, see listings in the where guide.

For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 110.

The Commons at Calabasas

NORTH HOLLYWOOD

North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., as neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With the addition of new restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub with a full calendar of music and comedy, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village.

From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway, or board the Orange Line, a surprisingly sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

Ventura Boulevard This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles from one end of the San Fernando Valley to the other. Immortalized in music by

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exploring

South Bay

The South Bay’s beaches and harbors are actionpacked, but the living is easy. Look for ocean-view dining, mom-andpop shops and seaside attractions.

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch renowned for surfing, volleyball and expensive real estate.

Farther south beckon the rugged bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, and beyond them, the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach. Longing for a laid-back vibe? Scenic beaches? Premier shopping and dining? Outdoor adventure?

You’ll find all of them here and more.

Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts two miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. One of the more affluent cities in the county, Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the 928-foot-long Manhattan Beach Pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks and terrifies with a lifesize replica of a great white shark. The pier features bronze plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including boogie-boarders and surfers who congregate near the pier. East of the pier, casual cafes, laid-back bars and upscale boutiques radiate from the intersection of Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue. Metlox plaza is a popular gathering spot, with such shops as Wright’s Baby and the Beehive and hot spots such as Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics of Manhattan Beach, including a scenic twomile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the

far left and center, bjarne g. jensen; far right, edwin santiago. opposite: christopher ian smith

From left: The Korean Bell of Friendship in San Pedro; Shoreline Village in Long Beach; Maison Riz restaurant on Redondo Beach Pier

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Lions Lighthouse for Sight in Long Beach

new in town Beauty Loops

Upscale beauty boutique carries brands such as René Furterer, Kai and Philosophy. 1757 S. Elana Ave., Redondo Beach, 310.944.9400

Two Guns Espresso Coffee and tea bar with nibbles from local bakeries. 350 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.318.2537

Umami Burger The new burger to beat is Umami’s, and the newest location offers an array of addictive sandwiches and sides a block from the beach. 1040 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.214.8626

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Strand (here merged with the bike path), and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from hopping bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s and Mediterraneo. Beyond Pier Plaza to the south, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday night shows. To the plaza’s east, the ecofriendly cafe/boutique Gum Tree is a charming standout among the specialty shops and bistros that line Pier Avenue. Across the street, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear apropos for the town’s reigning pastimes.

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring two miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here, you’ll find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering recreational fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent kayaks, paddle boats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick eats, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow beach of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants

and specialty boutiques such as Lisa Z. and MPressions covering a six-block radius.

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA

Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Hugging the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West brings you to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a marine museum and popular gray-whale-watching site during the annual northbound migration. Eight miles inland on Crenshaw Boulevard sprawls the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden in tony Palos Verdes Estates. Just beyond the interpretive center on Palos Verdes Drive West is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Lloyd Wright, son of Frank. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

Golfers, take note: The Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, just south of the chapel, has a public nine-hole course. A couple of miles south, the 18-hole public golf course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.

SAN PEDRO

The multicultural city of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today, it’s home to the Port of Los Angeles, a major container port that also serves travelers on the Catalina Express and more than 1 million cruise passengers annually. From the port’s World Cruise Center, a vintage trolley takes visitors downtown to the waterfront restaurants and shops of the New England-style Ports O’ Call Village, and then to the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex includes a historic bathhouse and the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium, located next to Cabrillo Beach. Windsurfers

of all abilities congregate here, with outfitters including Captain Kirk’s (525 N. Harbor Blvd.) offering rentals and lessons.

LONG BEACH

Covering 50 square miles in the southwest corner of L.A. County, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than five miles of beaches. Among its most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. Alongside it is the Cold War-era Russian Foxtrot Submarine.

The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center and the Pike at Rainbow Harbor entertainment complex are nearby, as is the Aquarium of the Pacific and the familyfriendly Shoreline Village. From the village, you can rent bicycles and follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles along the water, passing the Long Beach Museum of Art. The path ends at the tony Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find restaurants and shops along 2nd street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier, windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons, and even gondola rides through the canals of Naples, a neighborhood situated on islands in Alamitos Bay. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage furniture and clothing shops such as the Vintage Collective make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway, while farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 109.

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s

great find

WICKED COOL The brothers behind Wicked+ know what they like. They like good coffee, and they like it brewed in the right machine. They like quality bicycles and skateboards. And they especially like spreading the word about well-designed products with a great story. So adding a retail storefront to their eponymously named marketing company was a winning way to share the products that inspire them. Located on Pier Avenue, the small but spot-on shop carries Linus bikes and accessories; Chemex, Presso and Aeropress coffee/espresso makers; freshly roasted DOMA coffee; Topo Ranch clothing; Baxter of California men’s grooming products; Oopsmark bicycle wine racks; and more utterly cool items that are destined to become your (or your guy’s) favorites, too. 145 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 424.226.6568, wicked.is

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TRENDING

CASUAL Fine dining is no longer defined by luxurious trappings.

L.A. is the land of the casual gourmet.

BY ROGER GRODY

This page: Cooks County on Beverly Boulevard features laid-back bar seating. Opposite: Blistering green beans from M.B. Post in Manhattan Beach.

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RICK POON

Not so long ago, people regularly dressed for dinner, but now there’s hardly a restaurant in L.A. that insists on jackets for gentlemen. That rule went the way of lobster Newburg and steak Diane, and the trend is hardly limited to laid-back L.A. Many of Manhattan’s most opulent dining rooms have disappeared, and even some of the most renowned chefs in Paris are scoring Michelin stars with casual bistros. “Fine dining” is certainly not dead, but now you can eat like royalty in jeans and flip-flops.

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he economy, evolving preferences and generational differences have all contributed to a trend toward more casual dining.

Ironically, haute cuisine landmarks such as New York’s Lutèce or L.A.’s L’Orangerie began shuttering just at a time when the American public’s culinary sophistication was beginning to explode. These days, white linen is a rarity, and the interiors of new fine dining venues favor sleek modernism over Old World luxury. The hottest young chefs don’t think they need the trappings of an elegant dining room to earn recognition, and some are showcasing their skills at unpretentious gastropubs.

The trend toward a more casual dining experience takes many forms. During the course of the past decade, haute cuisine has made it to the bar, and many of L.A.’s finest establishments serve fullblown truffle-studded meals at a place formerly reserved only for cocktails and peanuts. Even the great Joël Robuchon rolled out his L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, first in Paris, then in New York and Las Vegas, where seating is almost exclusively at a counter, à la a sushi bar. And at many L.A. restaurants, including the new buzz-worthy Cooks County, solo diners or couples without a reservation can saddle up to a counter with a view directly into the open kitchen. At this farm-to-table concept, the stools resemble vintage tractor seats, further reinforcing an informality and versatility unheard of in the glory days of fine dining.

Thomas Keller, often credited as America’s greatest chef, began opening less-formal restaurants after conquering haute cuisine at the French Laundry in Napa Valley. At the Beverly Hills edition of Bouchon, one of his three sophisticated but relatively laid-back bistros, you can enjoy some Keller comfort cuisine without getting too

Animal on North Fairfax Avenue

dressed up or dropping $500 for dinner. In fact, you can even decline a table and dine quite comfortably at the classically styled raw bar that offers a sense of camaraderie unavailable in the main dining room. Start with a platter of oysters or slab of foie gras—enjoy it while you can, as it will become prohibited in California later this year— before moving on to roasted leg of lamb or steak frites.

The advent of the small-plate format, an incredibly popular trend in L.A., is another nod toward casual dining. In haute cuisine, the composition and sequence of dishes is strictly in the hands of the chef, but with small plates, the diner controls what, how much and when, representing a radical redistribution of power. Among the plethora of small-plate restaurants are Silver Lake’s Barbrix, whose wine bar offers a great selection by the glass; Susan Feniger’s Street, delivering contemporary interpretations of street foods from around the globe; and chef Ricardo Zarate’s Picca, which is part of an exciting Peruvian invasion of L.A. At these establishments, you might simply drop in for a glass of garnacha and duck confit before heading off into the neon-splashed night, or you can compose your own elaborate tasting menu, paired with different wines.

Former luxury-dining specialists Brendan Collins, previously of high-end Mélisse, and Carolos Tomazos, who juggled a bucket of Michelin stars at Manhattan’s Per Se and Le Bernardin, created one of L.A.’s best gastropubs, Waterloo & City, in 2010. Last year, they waded even deeper into the casual dining movement with Larry’s, a beachside pub in Venice named after legendary local artist Larry Bell. The menu at this funky indoor-outdoor, art-filled space features upmarket items such as ahi tuna tartare and foie gras (Collins is an artist when it comes to pâtés and terrines), but diners mark their

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orders on the kind of paper checklist you see at neighborhood sushi bars. Larry’s also offers a great burger that can be washed down with craft beers from around the globe.

Big-name chefs are increasingly attracted to a more casual format with which they can be as creative as possible without the pressure and capital investment of a fancy dining room. When chef David LeFevre, a Charlie Trotter protégé, departed downtown’s fashionable Water Grill, he opened a far more casual concept on the coast of Manhattan Beach called M.B. Post. There, he continues to show his strength with seafood in dishes such as curried mussels, but the menu is diverse and approachable, with buttermilk fried chicken, beautifully barbecued lamb belly and some compelling vegetarian options. The place is decidedly casual, with many guests choosing to pull up a stool at a communal table.

The communal table has become a signature of casual dining in L.A., a feature interior designers are reluctant to leave out of any floor plan. A remnant of the roadside inns that were the precursors of the modern restaurant, the communal table has made a triumphant resurgence. Until about a decade ago, it was typically associated with no-frills eateries, like downtown’s century-old Philippe the Original, but suddenly communal tables became chic. They are usually available to walk-ins, too, another concept previously foreign to fine dining venues. John Shook and Vinny Dotolo are talented chefs who could cook at any high-end restaurant in town, but instead chose to prepare innovative, intensely flavored food in their own casual restaurants. After the success of Animal, a place where various ears, brains, tongues and livers are cooked with considerable finesse, the duo recently introduced a seafood restaurant. Named Son of a Gun, it’s the kind of place where strangers at a communal table might exchange opinions or even tastes of amberjack crudo, octopus salad or alligator schnitzel. At Gjelina, a celeb-favored Venice eatery that openly shuns formality, the management has doubledowned with small plates and a pair of communal tables.

These symbols of casual dining are evident at many L.A. restaurants, whether the environment is bohemian or chic. There’s a communal table at the rustic Lazy Ox Canteen downtown, where fine

Chilcano de Anis cocktail at Picca in West L.A.

dining veteran Josef Centeno experiments with Spanish, French and Asian accents in the kitchen. Fig & Olive, however, is one of those high-profile, style-conscious New York imports suitable for hosting corporate boards of directors or presidential fundraisers, not to mention plenty of hipsters soaking up a gorgeous scene. But even there, small plates rule and a 50-foot Carrara marble communal table near the bar attracts diners seeking a more free-flowing experience than is offered in the main dining room.

Pushing the casual trend to the limit, a few prominent restaurants in town have even introduced deli sections—the chic term is “larder”—where casual nibbling and take-out are encouraged. The larder at Tavern, acclaimed chef Suzanne Goin’s Brentwood restaurant, is the casual option for folks from the neighborhood to drop by for brunch, lunch or an early supper of charcuterie and cheese, without making the commitment of a long, drawn-out dinner in the dining room. At Silver Lake’s Forage, a daily-changing menu turns out quiches, pork belly sandwiches and herb-marinated flank steak in a modern, strictly informal setting, and does a brisk take-out biz. And near ritzy Hancock Park, The Larchmont Larder offers comfort foods in a charming old bungalow.

If you still want to dress for dinner, consider hotel dining rooms.

Some have loosened their ties, but luxury lives on at many of L.A.’s top properties, where restaurants don’t need to turn a profit to be a tremendous asset. Hotel dining rooms were long stigmatized as stuffy and predictable, but some of the best food in the world is served in hotels, where chefs spend more time cooking and less time fretting about the bills. In L.A., Spanish celebrity chef José Andrés serves a 22-course blow-out at Saam in the SLS Hotel, complete with spherified olives, foie gras soup and other nods to his inspirational mentor, molecular gastronomy pioneer Ferran Adrià. Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air recently debuted, giving the city’s most famous chef yet another prominent stage, while Guy Savoy-trained David Féau turns out ambitious dinners at The Royce, housed in Pasadena’s historic Langham Huntington hotel. Across town at another landmark, the legendary Polo Lounge is a hit with a whole new generation at the Beverly Hills Hotel.

CASUAL CHIC Animal 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 Barbrix 2442 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.662.2442 Bouchon 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 Cooks County 8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.653.8009 Fig & Olive 8490 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 310.360.9100 Forage 3823 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.663.6885 Gjelina 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.142 Larry’s 24 Windward Ave., Venice, 310.399.2700 The Larchmont Larder 626 N. Larchmont Blvd., L.A., 323.962.9900 Lazy Ox Canteen 241 S. San Pedro St., downtown, 213.626.5299 M.B. Post 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 Picca 9575 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.277.0133 Polo Lounge Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 W. Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.887.2777 Philippe the Original 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 The Royce Langham Huntington Hotel & Spa, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6410 Saam SLS Hotel, 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5545 Son of a Gun 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 Susan Feniger’s Street 742 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.203.0500 Tavern 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 Waterloo & City 12517 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.391.4222 Wolfgang Puck at Hotel Bel-Air 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air, 310.909.1644

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where

the guide

NIGHTLIFE

ALEX VASILESCU

Write On

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If the walls of The Writers Room could talk, oh, the tales they’d tell. Writers such as F. Scott Fitzgerald, Ernest Hemingway and William Faulkner and other Hollywood elite used to frequent the bar formerly in this space, the “back room” of Musso & Frank restaurant. A highlight of the décor is a 1928 elevator cage transformed into a VIP booth with curtains and a daybed.

Celebrated local mixologist Daniel Nelson commands a cocktail menu with drinks inspired by the ethnic neighborhoods of Los Angeles. p. 104

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Dining American

Guidelines

a/k/a an american bistro Menu inspired by California wine country cuisine; 40 wines by the glass.

Emphasis on house-made and house-cured ingredients in dishes such as PEI mussels with smoked Manila clams and chorizo. L, D (daily). One Colorado, 41 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, 626.564.8111 $$ Map Q19

Index

animaL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known as the “Two Dudes” to Food Network fans, is a carnivore’s dream.

Think delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly).

435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 charLie’s Chophouse fare, upscale pizzas, seafood and pastas in a dining room/lounge with leopard-print décor. L (M–F), D (nightly). 22821 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.3231 $$$$ Map east of A1 craFt New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers an endless, contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including octopus with Greek yogurt and rose-syrup-drizzled foie gras. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11

haven is a place on earth

Not many restaurants migrate from Orange County to L.A., but Old Pasadena is the beneficiary of a new Haven Gastropub + Brewery, an O.C. fave. Chef Greg Daniels loves to experiment with animal parts that other chefs throw away or don’t give their customers credit for appreciating; pig’s ear, porchetta di testa and rabbit liver are all favorite ingredients of Daniels’. The bar pours 150 craft beers, and the menu is loaded with nouveau pub specialties such as beef cheek poutine, goose pastrami sandwich, pheasant pot pie and bacon ice cream. A whole suckling pig is just a phone call away, serving eight to 14 hungry pork-aholics. (Pictured: housecured salmon.) p. 69

hard rock caFe Hard Rock can be counted on for fun, indulgent fare such as pulled pork sandwiches, twisted mac, chicken & cheese and barbecued ribs.

Memorabilia, artifacts and souvenirs from the onsite gift shop celebrate rock ‘n’ roll’s legends. L, D (daily). Universal CityWalk, 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.622.7625; Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.7625 $$ Map U19, H13 ink. New. L.A.’s culinary darling du jour, Top Chef winner Michael Voltaggio, showcases daring, thoughtful molecular gastronomy at his first restaurant. Get a fivecourse tasting menu or explore a la carte small plates including tuna with dashi “sponge,” poutine with lamb neck gravy and chickpea fries, and young turnips and radishes with coffee-cardamom “soil.” D (M–Sa). 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.651.5866 $$$ Map I12 iVY restaUrant This is one of the entertainment industry’s favorite gathering spots; if your face isn’t well known, be prepared for a cool reception. American comfort food is often deconstructed to suit the celebrity clientele. L.A.: L, D (daily); Ivy at the Shore: B, L, D (daily), Br (Su). 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.274.8303; Ivy at the Shore, 1535 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.3113 $$$ Map I11, L8 Jar Chef Suzanne Tracht presents an L.A. take on traditional, comforting American fare in a chic interpretation of an old-school chophouse. A meal might begin with crab-deviled eggs before moving on to the signature pot roast. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6566 $$$ Map I12 Joan’s on third Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups, sweets plus picnic baskets, gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285 $ Map I12 LamiLL coFFee boUtiQUe With its retro-chic design, unique coffee service and affordable menu created by acclaimed Providence chef Michael Cimarusti, this is a laid-back, versatile eatery. Tasmanian sea trout with wasabi crème fraîche and hanger steak with watercress velouté are followed by exquisitely presented desserts. B, L, D (daily). 1636 Silverlake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.4441 $$ Map W23 m.b. post Small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in the space of a former

Restaurants are listed by city on page 89. Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 107–110. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

American .............................. 68 Breweries/Gastropubs ... 69 British...................................... 69 California............................... 70 Chinese.................................. 70 Clubs/Supper Clubs ........ 70 Eclectic/Fusion................... 70 French ......................................71 Indian.......................................72 Italian .......................................72

Japanese ................................73 Korean.................................... 74 Mediterranean.................... 74 Mexican/Latin.................... 74 Pan-Asian ............................. 74 Quick Bites ............................75 Seafood...................................76 Spanish ...................................76 Steak ........................................76 Thai...........................................77

post office. “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans, brussels sprouts and cauliflower look tantalizing.

D (nightly). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 mUsso & Frank GriLL Hollywood’s oldest (1919).

Enjoy flannel cakes, lobster Thermidor and Welsh rarebit with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L, D (Tu–Sa). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$ Map H13 noé Visitors heading to the Museum of Contemporary Art or Walt Disney Concert Hall find Noé a convenient spot for a classy repaste. Noé executive chef Glen Ishii serves “neo-bistro” menu with a Japanese spin such as calamari with yuzu crème fraîche and chicken katsu sliders. D (nightly). Omni Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.356.4100 $$ Map H16 roLLinG stone restaUrant & LoUnGe Magazine’s restaurant concept offers rock ‘n’ roll ambience and upscale comfort fare. Lounge with DJ and small plates. Open until 2 am (F–Sa). L, D (daily). Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.4000 $$ Map H13 the roYce Chef David Feau does molecular gastronomy and unconventional flavor combinations: lobster and pomegranate “hot and snow,” venison and lychee compote, porcini casserole with pear. D (Tu–Sa).

The Langham Huntington Hotel, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6410 $$$$ Map S20 saddLe peak LodGe Nestled in the Santa Monica Mountains, this hunt-lodge-themed spot is a study in romantic rusticity, with moose heads overlooking candlelit tables. The menu focuses on game dishes such as seared New Zealand elk tenderloin or grilled Texas nilgai antelope. Br (Su), D (W–Su). 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, 818.222.3888 $$$$ Map northwest of A1 smittY’s GriLL Soul-warming American classics round out the menu here. Market-fresh fish, braised short rib and roast chicken are favorites. (M–F), D (nightly). 110 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.792.9999 $$ Map R21 simon L.a. Kerry Simon, Las Vegas’ acclaimed “rock ’n’ roll” chef, brings his fun-loving global cuisine to the Sofitel Los Angeles. Fare ranges from exotic to comfort, and it’s all innovative. Celebrate dessert with Simon’s signature “junk food sampler.” B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$$ Map I12 the strand hoUse New. This South Bay new-comer with awesome ocean views is sophisticated enough to compete with any restaurant in L.A. County’s hipper parts. House-made charcuterie precedes dishes such as Manila clam pizza and spit-roasted suckling pig. Butter-

Downtown’s Oviatt Building, the home of Cicada restaurant, was a haberdashery from 1927 to 1969—which helps to explain its glamorous, art deco-style good looks. p. 72

NICOLE CALDWELL

SPOTLIGHT

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Dining

“An American Classic.”

scotch doughnuts end the meal with a bang. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13

- Zagat’s Survey

true food kitchen Restaurant at Santa Monica Place offers health-conscious menu inspired by Dr. Andrew Weil’s diet principles. Several vegan and gluten-free options. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.593.8300 $ Map M8 umami burger Hot specialty burger joint; try the signature Umami Burger with tempura onion rings.

(No alcohol served at La Brea Avenue location.) L, D (daily). 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.669.3922; 1520 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.3100; Fred Segal, 500 Broadway, 310.451.1300; 850 S. La Brea Ave., 323.931.3000; 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.286.9004 $ Map W22, H14, L8, J13, A2 vertical wine bistro Seventy wines by the glass, 650 on the list. New American menu plus fun small plates, cheeses and charcuterie. D (Tu–Su). 70 N. Raymond Ave. (upstairs), Pasadena, 626.795.3999 $$$ Map Q19

Breweries/Gastropubs father’s office Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa–Su), D (nightly).

Culver City: L (F–Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.2337; Father’s Office 2, 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11 Ford’s Filling Station Rather than follow his father, Harrison, into the movie business, Benjamin Ford went to culinary school. Entree choices emphasize comfort pub fare: fish and chips, leg of lamb and a popular Maytag blue-cheese-topped burger. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 9531 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.1470 $$ Map L11

RS

haven gastropub + Brewery New. L.A. importing an Orange County restaurant is rare, and so are the animals and exotic parts on Chef Greg Daniels’ menu, a love letter to meat. Begin with an appetizer of buffalo Jidori wings with blue cheese mousse and end with foie gras cheesecake. Many ingredients are house-made— even the truffle salt! L, D (daily). 42 S. De Lacey Ave., Pasadena, 626.768.9555 $$ Map Q19

LA

Kings row gastropub Pub staples such as shepherd’s pie get a gourmet update; there are also creative fusion dishes (e.g. duck confit bánh mì). Br (Su), L (Th–Sa), D (nightly). 20 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.793.3010 $$ Map Q19

RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

lazy ox canteen With winning dishes such as crispy pig ear chicarrónes, and ricotta fritters drizzled with saffron honey, Lazy Ox’s gastropub-style offerings are always interesting. Myriad daily specials might include chef Josef Centeno’s gyro/taco, the bäco. Br (Sa– Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 241 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.626.5299 $$ Map H17

3 completely unique experiences under one roof!

public kitchen & Bar Meat-heavy but still refined menu includes chicken liver terrine with strawberryrhubarb marmalade sweetbreads, crispy oxtail galette with poached egg; bar serves cured meats, cheeses and cocktails. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 $$$ Map G13

RESTAURANT | LOUNGE | B-SIDE

British

6801 HOLLYWOOD BLVD, LOS ANGELES 323.464.4000 ROLLINGSTONELA.COM

Rose Tree Cottage Sweet, homey spot for English afternoon tea with gracious service from husband-andwife owners. Seatings at 1, 2:30 and 4 pm. Adjacent gift shop. Tea (T–Su). 801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.3337 $$ Map R19

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Dining farmshop Cheery bakery and restaurant with a killer brunch. Try salmon rillettes with caper berries and toasted rye, or decadent French toast topped with crushed berries and pistachios. Family-style dinners. B, L (M–F), Br (Sa–Su). Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.566.2400 $$ Map K8 fig restaurant Chef Ray Garcia, ex–French Laundry, crafts a seasonal menu of bistro fare; trendy charcuterie bar. Br (Su), B, L (daily), D (Tu–Sa). Fairmont Miramar Hotel, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111 $$ Map L8 Geoffrey’s Prettiest patio in paradise? Offers 180-degree Pacific views; creative seafood. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 27400 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.457.1519 $$$ Map northwest of K7

Ink. on Melrose Avenue

waterloo & City Located on an unremarkable strip in Culver City is this surprisingly hip English gastropub dishing out house-made charcuterie, gourmet pizzas topped with Moroccan spiced lamb and slowbraised short rib, and spot-on cocktails. It’s certainly L.A.’s most sophisticated pub grub. D (nightly). 12517 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.391.4222 $$ Map M10 Ye Olde King’s Head Pub/restaurant with cozy dining rooms, fish and chips, high tea, gift shop. B, L, D (daily), high tea (Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

California Cuisine AKASHA Chef-owner Akasha Richmond takes ecoconsciousness to new heights with sustainable décor and organic food ingredients “whenever possible.” The menu of comfort food includes humanely raised meats (e.g. Niman Ranch burgers), but Richmond also does intriguing vegetarian plates. B (M–Sa), L (M–F), D (nightly). 9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.845.1700 $$ Map L11 Breeze Creative “grill cuisine,” plus sushi bar. Fabulous desserts; distinctive décor. Reservation recommended. B, L, D (daily). Hyatt Regency Century Plaza Hotel & Spa, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.551.3334 $$$ Map J11 cafe 140 South California cuisine gets hearty at the redesigned and renamed Crocodile Cafe. Woodfired oven pizzas, thick hand-formed bugers, oakwoodgrilled meats. L, D (daily). 140 S. Lake Ave., Pasadena, 626.449.9900 $$ Map R21 Chaya The original Chaya in Japan remains open after 385 years, and Chaya’s popularity endures in Los Angeles, too. The Japanese-accented French/Italian menus are accomplished and innovative. Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). Beverly Hills, Venice: L (M–F), D (nightly). 8741 Alden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8833; 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.236.9577; 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179 $$ Map I11, H16, M8 Chinois on Main The Asian-French cuisine at Chinois on Main, arguably Wolfgang Puck’s most exciting restaurant, still impresses. The design is loud—ditto the decibel level—but the relative discomfort hardly detracts from dishes such as Cantonese duck and whole ginger-stuffed catfish. L (W–F), D (nightly). 2709 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.9025 $$$ Map M8 Eva restaurant Patina Group alum Mark Gold graciously serves creative, affordable Cal fare in intimate dining room. Family-style, prix fixe dinner on Sundays. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 7458 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.634.0700 $$ Map I13

Gina Lee’s Bistro Unassuming but daring Cal-Asian eatery is among the South Bay’s best. D (Tu–Su). 211 Palos Verdes Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.375.4462 $$ Map N13 hatfield’s Husband-and-wife chef team Quinn and Karen Hatfield combine their talents in the savory and sweet departments, respectively. Guests might dine on Quinn’s reinvented croque madame with yellowtail sashimi, prosciutto and quail egg, or Karen’s heavenly sugar-and-spice beignets. D (nightly). 6703 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.935.2977 $$$ Map I13 Joe’s Boisterous benchmark of Cal cuisine is an Abbot Kinney classic. Nicely edited menu with notable desserts.

Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.5811 $$$ Map M9 mar’sel Sustainable menu with produce and herbs from chef’s on-site garden. Overlooks sparkling peninsula. D (W–Su). Terranea Resort, 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2836 $$$$ Map O13 michael’s Michael McCarty’s influential restaurant, opened in 1979, endures. Enjoy Liberty Farms duck confit or butter-poached monkfish on the breezy patio. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 $$$ Map L8 palate food + Wine Glendale goes gourmet at this Cal-Med bistro, featuring top-notch selection of wine and artisanal cheeses; wine bar and wine shop. L (F), D (nightly). 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.662.9463 $$ Map southeast of T23 Parkway Grill Handsome dining room; one of Pasadena’s best restaurants. Diverse menu includes tiger shrimp corndogs, prosciutto-and-arugula pizza, duck breast with cherry reduction. L (M–F), D (nightly). 510 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.795.1001 $$$ Map N16 Polo Lounge Legendary celeb watering hole.

McCarthy salad is a perennial favorite; great people watching. B, L, D (daily), Br (Su). Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.887.2777 $$$ Map I11 Restaurant at the Getty Center Chic room, spectacular views of the Santa Monica Mountains and progressive fare at the hilltop museum. Br (Su), L (Tu–Sa), D (Sa). 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.6810 $$$ Map H9 Spago Beverly Hills Whether you go for pizza and stargazing or for a multicourse feast, dining at Wolfgang Puck’s flagship is always a treat. White truffle-topped pizza might precede Cantonese-style roasted duck, capped off with Austrian kaiserschmarrn for dessert. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$ Map I11 THE tasting kitchen Loud, but lovely. Hipster foodies come for the daily changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine: Small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas.

Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9

tavern Chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs or grilled halibut with wild chanterelles. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9 208 Rodeo Café spills onto cobblestone via at luxe Two Rodeo. A gem. Pan-Asian, French influences. B, L, D (daily). Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$ Map J11 Westside tavern Chef Warren Schwartz does rustic Cal fare. Creamy chicken-liver mousse, excellent cocktails. Below Landmark Theatres. L, D (daily). Westside Pavilion, 10850 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.470.1539 $$ Map K10

Chinese CBS Seafood Fine dim sum in a setting not quite so huge as others in Chinatown or Monterey Park. B, L, D (daily). 700 N. Spring St., Chinatown, 213.617.2323 $$ Map G17 Mr. Chow L.A. edition of sceney restaurants in New York and London. Imperial Beijing cuisine. L (M–F), D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 $$$ Map I11 new capital seafood A sample of the Chinese cuisine treasures that await in San Gabriel Valley. Dim sum is worth the wait for a table. B, L, D (daily). Focus Plaza, 140 W. Valley Blvd, San Gabriel, 626.288.1899 $ Map B4 OCEAN SEAFOOD Vast and boisterous spot serves amazing array of traditional dishes, superfresh seafood, top-of-the-line dim sum. B, L, D (daily). 750 N. Hill St., Chinatown, 213.687.3088 $$ Map G17

Clubs/Supper Clubs first & hope This midcentury-inspired supper club is a favorite for theatergoers and opera lovers who dine before performances at the Music Center, across the street. The menu is American with a Southern touch—think chicken pot pie and crab hushpuppies. Br (Su), L (Tu–F), D (nightly). 710 W. 1st St., downtown, 213.617.8555 $$ Map H16 supperclub International prix fixe menu and dinner show featuring performance artists, dancers and musicians. D (W–Sa). 6675 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.1900 $$$ Map H14 the tar pit Reminiscent of a 1940s supper club, the Tar Pit pairs classic American dishes such as oysters Rockefeller with stiff libations served amid a swanky, streamline setting. Under the direction of Jay Perrin and chef Mark Peel of Campanile, no detail is overlooked.

D (nightly). 609 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.965.1300 $$ Map I13

Eclectic/Fusion a-frame Roy Choi, whose Kogi launched a thousand food trucks, offers a bizarro comfort-food menu (beer-can chicken, furikake kettle corn) with Korean influences. List of craft beers and signature cocktails.

D (nightly). 12565 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.398.7700 $$ Map M10 CAFE SIERRA Cal–Continental-Chinese menu, Vegasstyle dinner buffet and entertainment. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). Hilton Universal City, 555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City, 818.509.2030 $$ Map U19

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Dining

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World Famous British Pub, Restaurant & Shoppe

Gordon ramsaY The tyrant from TV’s Hell’s Kitchen arrives in L.A. to demonstrate why he has racked up more than a dozen Michelin stars. The restaurant is a hip setting in which to enjoy eclectically inspired dishes such as duck confit risotto and miso-glazed sablefish. D (nightly). London West Hollywood, 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.7788 $$$$ Map H11 maison akira Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with Kobe beef, miso sea bass, foie gras and chawanmushi) in Pasadena’s playhouse district. Eight-course omakase available. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips.

Open for breakfast weekends at 8am, Fabulous happy hour Mon–Fri 4-7pm.

Traditional Afternoon Tea is served Saturdays 2-5pm. Karaoke Sundays at 9pm.

Heated patio. Quiz shows every Wednesday. Call for soccer schedule.

Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, cheese and much more.

sUsan FeniGer’s street Feniger’s passion for the bold, unexpected flavors of global street food is the central concept at Street. Saag paneer, Ukrainian dumplings and a brioche cheeseburger, perfect for sharing around the outdoor fire pit, have a place on the diverse menu. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 742 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.203.0500 $$ Map I13

French boUchon The Bouchon bistros from chef Thomas Keller (the French Laundry, Per Se) have become popular for their authentic good looks and superbly executed cuisine. One might begin with salmon rillettes followed by côte de boeuf or a croque madame. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11

11 6 S a n t a M o n i c a B l v d .

cheVaL bLanc bistro The Smith Brothers (Smitty’s Grill, Arroyo Chophouse) take on the classics of French bistro fare—bouillabaisse, steak frites, coq au vin. D (Wu–Su). 41 S. DeLacey Ave. Pasadena, 626.577.4141 $$$ Map Q19

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chUrch & state Located in the historic Biscuit Co. Lofts, this downtown eatery has a hip clientele— downtown residents and commuters waiting out rush hour—who crowd the dining room or linger on the patio to soak up the vibe of an authentic French brasserie.

L (M–F), D (nightly). 1850 Industrial St., downtown, 213.405.1434 $$ Map J17 comme Ça Chef David Myers has turned his attention to more casual French fare at this inviting brasserie with a sophisticated modern aesthetic. All the classics are here, including tarte flambé, escargot, coq au vin, bouillabaisse and duck confit. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.1104 $$ Map I12 deLphine Just off the soaring lobby of the chic W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, demure Delphine establishes a laid-back ambience with vintage photo murals and wood barreled ceilings. Chef Sascha Lyon’s entrees include trout meunière with steak frites. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1355 $$$ Map H13

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the haLL Located in a charming boutique hotel, the Hall is a relaxed brasserie, attractive for a morning café au lait or a full supper. Guests settle in at courtyard tables, enjoying fare such as moules frites and truffle chicken. Br (Su), B, L (Tu–Sa), D (Tu–Su). Palihouse Holloway, 8465 Holloway Drive, West Hollywood, 323.656.4020 $$$ Map H12 JiraFFe Raphael Lunetta’s stylish Cal-French bistro.

D (M–Sa). 502 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.917.6671 $$$ Map L8 kendaLL’s brasserie Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here: fruits de mer, moules frites and braised lamb shank. B, L (daily), D (Tu–Su; M varies). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16

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Dining Vanilla meringue cake from Mr. C Restaurant in Beverly Hills

over brick-oven-cooked pizzas and share small plates of shaved fennel with sweet onions or jambón serrano.

There’s a wee gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 buca di beppo Heaping, family-style portions. Call for hours. 80 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.792.7272; 17500 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.995.3288; 1670 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.540.3246; 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.509.9463; bucadibeppo. com for more locations. $$ Map Q21, A1, M14, U20 cecconi’s This London-based restaurant caters to a well-heeled clientele who come to schmooze over Bellinis and ciccheti (small plates). Pastas including a beautiful English pea tortelli and seafood such as grilled octopus with capers are well executed. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12

The Little Door For a candlelit dinner in an elegant setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace in one of four intimate, romantic dining areas. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12 Mélisse At Mélisse, consistently among L.A.’s highestrated restaurants, chef-owner Josiah Citrin executes a sophisticated modern French menu filled with luxe ingredients. Start with white-corn ravioli in truffle froth before superb game dishes and selections from a nonpareil cheese cart. D (Tu–Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8 Patina The Walt Disney Concert Hall is a winning composition of impressive classical music offerings and fine dining at its in-house restaurant, Patina. Chef Tony Esnault has injected new life into the restaurant, and has a way with rich game dishes. D (Tu–Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H17 Petrossian Chef Giselle Wellman works with the brand’s signature caviar in creative ways. Highlights include caviar- and roe-topped blinis, vanilla panna cotta with espresso “caviar” (actually tapioca). B, L (daily), D (M–Sa). 321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.271.6300 $$$ Map J12

Indian akbar cuisine of india Extensive menu of Northern Indian fare. Santa Monica location is most stylish.

L (M–F), D (nightly). 44 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.577.9916; 2627 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.586.7469; 3115 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey, 310.574.0666; 1101 Aviation Blvd., Hermosa Beach, 310.937.3800 $ Map Q19, K9, N9, L13 TANZORE This sleek, modern restaurant takes Indian cuisine to a whole new level, with lighter technique, seasonal California ingredients and modern presentation in a dramatic dining room. The fare includes items such as seared tuna with toasted coriander atop avocado raita.

Br (Su), L, D (daily). 50 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.3894 $$$ Map J12

Italian Angelini Osteria Hardly elegant or romantic, this is nonetheless one of L.A.’s premier Italian restaurants.

Chef-owner Gino Angelini demonstrates remarkable range and finesse, from sea-salt-crusted whole branzino to the heavenly lasagna in herb sauce he inherited from his grandmother. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.297.0070 $$$ Map I13 bottega louie This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in minimalist white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals and downtown hipsters convene

Cicada This art deco jewel is a perfect specialoccasion spot. Diners enter through magnificent Lalique doors into a room with gold-leaf ceilings and a grand staircase. The modern Italian cooking includes creations such as lamb chops with mini pillows and rosemary mirin sauce. D (varies). 617 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.488.9488 $$$ Map I16 culina A contemporary take on regional Italian cuisine is the theme at Culina, where ample coastal inspirations are evident on the menu. The modern design includes a sleek crudo bar and an impressive 25-foot chandelier.

B, L (M–Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 dominick’s Retro Rat Pack vibe inside, airy brick patio with herb garden outside. Intriguing takes on the old favorites: goat cheese ravioli with corn broda and chive blossoms, wood-grilled burger with crispy speck and burrata. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.2335 $$ Map I12 drago centro Deftly executed Italian fare—garganelli with pork sausage and fennel seeds, parmesancrusted chicken with farro—and extensive wine list in a more contemporary space than Drago. L (M–F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16 Il Cielo Frolicking cherubs, 50,000 twinkling lights, flowered courtyard with retractable glass roof. 1,400 couples have married here. Even the food is romantic. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 9018 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.9990 $$$ Map I11 Il Fornaio Trattoria-style favorites; adjoining bakeries offer pastries, sandwiches to take out. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Santa Monica: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Pasadena: Br (Su), L, D (daily). 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800; 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$ Map J11, L13, L8, Q19 il grano Elegant Il Grano has emerged as one of L.A.’s finest Italian restaurants. Its menu emphasizes superb seafood, from crudo—sashimi-grade raw dishes—to squid-ink pasta with sea urchin sauce. The wine program matches the high standards of the kitchen. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 11359 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A., 310.477.7886 $$$ Map K9 IL SOLE Intimate trattoria lures A-listers and neighborhood folks alike. A makeover courtesy of entrepreneur Brent Bolthouse lends a trendy, loungelike ambience.

D (nightly). 8741 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.1182 $$$$ Map H12 louise’s trattoria An L.A. favorite since 1978, Louise’s Trattoria delivers Italian cooking with a whimsical California flair. L, D (daily). 264 26th St.,

Santa Monica, 310.451.5001; 1008 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.394.8888; 232 N. Larchmont Blvd., L.A., 323.962.9510; 4500 Los Feliz Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.667.0777; 10645 Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.6084; 2-8 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.568.3030 $ Map K8, L8, I14, G14, K10, Q19 mr. c restaurant From the Cipriani family, which founded Venice’s legendary Harry’s Bar, Mr. C Restaurant features a timeless, sophisticated setting with Venetian chandeliers, travertine floors and rich rosewood. The menu offers classic Cipriani dishes such as beef carpaccio and baked tagliolini, plus the bellini made famous at Harry’s. B, L, D (daily). 1224 S. Beverwil Drive, L.A., 310.226.6245 $$$$ Map K11 MADDALENA Dining among the casks at San Antonio Winery; fresh pastas, seafood, paninis and more served with European hospitality. B, L, D (daily). 737 Lamar St., L.A., 323.223.1401 $$ Map G17 matteo’s An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures.

Burrata campana salad, PEI mussels in white wine, ossobuco Milanese. D (Tu–Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10 OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton teamed up with affable Mario Batali on Mozza’s duo of contemporary Italian restaurants. Osteria Mozza is a more sophisticated dining room in which to experience the repertory of these great transcontinental talents. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 paparazzi ristorante Contemporary Italian, steaks and comforting sides. D (M–Sa). Sheraton Gateway Hotel, 6101 Century Blvd., Westchester, 310.642.4820 $$ Map O11 Piccolo Eatery a block from the beach. Six-course seasonal tasting menu, monthly “reversal dinners” with chosen wines paired to dishes. D (nightly). 5 Dudley Ave., Venice, 310.314.3222 $$$ Map M8 Pizzeria Mozza The other half of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza is a more relaxed dining experience, and it’s far easier to get a table than at its sibling, Osteria Mozza, next door. It features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates, and rustic daily specials. L, D (daily). 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101 $$ Map H13 scarpetta Scott Conant’s much-lauded NYC-based concept is replicated at the Montage Beverly Hills hotel.

Conant is deservedly famous for dishes such as duckand-foie-gras ravioli as well as a simple, unbeatable spaghetti with tomato and basil. Br (Su), L, D (daily). 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7970 $$$ Map I11 SOTTO Contemporary southern Italian in a subterranean space. Start with the blistered Little Gem lettuce with breadcrumbs and aged caprino sardo; move on to whole grilled orata or house-made casarecce with soft-boiled egg and lamb ragù. A half-dozen pizzas, too. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 The Stinking Rose “We season our garlic with food,” from Gartini cocktail to garlic ice cream. 40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 Tra di noi Mainstay restaurant at the Malibu Country Mart; pastas made in-house daily. L, D (daily). 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.0169 $$$ Map K7 Valentino For more than 30 years, Piero Selvaggio has maintained his flagship’s status as a preeminent temple of Italian gastronomy. A telephone-book-sized wine list—often cited as America’s best—is supported by a cellar containing more than 100,000 bottles. L (F), D (Tu–Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9

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Experience a FRESH APPROACH

Dining Vincenti ristorante Trattoria with exhibition kitchen turns out Northern Italian specialties from a wood-burning oven. Upscale pizza menu on Mondays.

L (F), D (M–Sa). 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.0127 $$ Map J9

Japanese abUriYa toranoko Sushi and izakaya. Noodles, sumiyaki; daring fare such as miso-marinated beef tongue, and snow crab and jellyfish with cucumber sunomono. L, D (daily). 243 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.621.9500 $$ Map H17

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asanebo Hidden in a minimall but Michelinrated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi, seared toro in garlic cream and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu–F), D (Tu-Su).

11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1 benihana This restaurant sees teppanyaki chefs slicing and dicing at each table and grilling up simple fare such as tender steak and chicken, savory vegetables, and shrimp and lobster, which is delivered sizzling to diners’ plates. Encino: L (Su–F), D (nightly).

Beverly Hills: L, D (daily). Torrance: L, D (daily).

Santa Monica: L, D (daily). 38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.655.7311; 1447 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1423; Encino, 818.788.7121; Torrance, 310.316.7777 $$ Map I12, L8, G9, M14 katana Robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood on skewers. Stylish rooms, patio. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12 katsUYa Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck.

From signature cocktails to king crab cooked over the robata grill to exotically flavored crème brûlées, Katsuya is never boring. L (varies by location), D (nightly).

Downtown: D (Tu–Su). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 katsU-Ya Top sushi bar along the Valley’s Sushi Row; no-frills décor. Expect a crowd. Studio City: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Encino: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 11680 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.6976; 16542 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.788.2396 $$ Map U18, A1 matsUhisa Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s more modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. Foie gras sushi, gold-leaf-wrapped monkfish liver, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño are just a few of his dazzling creations.

L (M–F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12

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nobU The glitzy flagship of Nobu Matsuhisa attracts celebrities as well as serious foodies. An extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi includes many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. Sakes and omakase feasts result in soaring tabs, but the cuisine measures up. D (nightly). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12 sUGarFish Kazunori Nozawa—aka the “Sushi Nazi,” chef/owner of Studio City’s famed former Sushi Nozawa—opens a cheery, casual spot offering preset menus. Tips are included, but prices are about half those at the original. L, D (daily). 47221/4 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.306.6300; 11640 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.820.4477; 600 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.627.3000; 1345 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.393.3338 $$ Map N9, K9, I16, L8

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Dining include egg tartine, crispy grilled saltwater trout, various flatbreads; molecular mixology at the bar. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (M–Sa). 600 S. Main St., downtown, 213.622.6333 $$$ Map I6 barbrix Of the small-plate eateries, this restaurant, in a converted schoolhouse, is one of the best. Solo diners eat at the bar while couples relax on a charming patio and revelers toast near an exhibition kitchen.

Among the standouts are pappardelle with guinea hen ragú. D (nightly). 2442 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.662.2442 $$$ Map east of W23

Truffle beets and feta salad from Artisan House downtown

Sushi Roku Nouvelle Japanese, sleek décor. Creative menu includes albacore tacos, salmon sashimi with black truffles shaved tableside. L.A.: L (M–Sa), D (nightly); Santa Monica and Pasadena: L, D (daily). 8445 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.6767; 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map I12, L8, Q19 sushi sasabune Don’t ask for a California or spicy tuna roll—you’ll be swiftly denied—but do expect incredibly fresh, authentically prepared sushi. The impressive omakase is recommended. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 12400 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 310.820.3596 $$$$ Map K9 TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA Takami occupies the 21st floor of a downtown high-rise, and its wraparound veranda enhances the illusion of floating in air. Dine at the sushi bar or the robata bar, where skewers of seafood, vegetables and meats are grilled. L (M–F), D (nightly). 811 Wilshire Blvd., 21st floor, downtown, 213.236.9600 $$ Map I16 Urasawa If you’re serious about sushi, make a date to sit at the maple bar of Urasawa. Here you’ll be treated to an incredible omakase dinner—don’t even ask about price—that features the freshest, most artfully presented sushi, sashimi and shabu-shabu dishes. D (Tu–Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11

Korean chosun galbee Korean barbecue restaurant offers a more upscale ambience than most, with an elegant open-air patio. L, D (daily) 3330 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown, 323.734.3330 $$$ Map Seoul Jung Traditional Korean barbecue and hot pot specialties prepared at your table. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wilshire Grand Hotel, 930 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.688.7880 $$$ Map H16 soot bull jeep One of K-Town’s best, with all manner of savory meats cooked on tabletop grills. L, D (daily). 3136 W. 8th St., Koreatown, 213.387.3865 $$ Map east of J14

Mediterranean AOC Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends: the small-plates format and the wine bar. Chef-owner Suzanne Goin offers addictive Parmesan-stuffed dates and an excellent selection of cheeses and cured meats from a charcuterie bar. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.653.6359 $$ Map I12 artisan house New. Restaurant-bar-market-deli under one roof emphasizes products from local farms and artisan producers. Seasonal Cal-Med entrees

Campanile Chef-owner Mark Peel’s first restaurant is an enduring L.A. favorite. Peel offers such starters as beer-battered soft-shell crab, followed by grilled prime rib. Go on Thursday nights for a sampling of gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.938.1447 $$$ Map J13 cleo The SBE group’s noisy mezze bar is an unquestionable high point of the Hollywood dining scene. Chef Daniel Elmaleh’s eastern and southern Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of pork belly and blood sausage and wood-burned flatbreads. Cocktails are expensive but irresistible. D (nightly). The Redbury, 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 $$$ Map H14 fig & Olive New York-based restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil: gorgonzola jamón ibérico ravioli drizzled with porcini olive oil, grilled branzino glazed with fig and picholine olive oil. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8490 Melrose Place, L.A., 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 FRAÎCHE The menu offers rustic flavors from the French and Italian countrysides, such as handcrafted salumi and charcuterie and passatelli in brodo with chanterelles. L (M–F), D (nightly). 312 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.7482 $$$ Map L8 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett, hipster servers in T-shirts and newsboy caps serve seasonal Cal-Med small plates and pizzas to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s most lively patio.

Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9

Mexican/Latin Border Grill At Border Grill, chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger combine their unabashed love for Mexico’s market vendors, home cooks and taco stands.

The result: bold, fresh and innovative Mexican cuisine.

The downtown location offers a free shuttle to L.A. Live and the Music Center. Santa Monica: Tu–Su. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.451.1655; 445 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.486.5171 $$ Map L8, H16 1810 An eclectic menu features specialties from the Americas and Italy—everything from Argentine sausage to sauteed zucchini, plus some reasonably priced steaks— in casual, brick-clad environs. L, D (daily). 121 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.795.5658 $$ Map Q20 La Serenata de Garibaldi La Serenata is an eyeopener for diners used to consuming clichéd Tex-Mex cooking. Discover the sophistication of Mexican cuisine with dishes such as scallops with Mexican mustard sauce and black beans. West L.A.: B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily).

East L.A.: B (Su), L, D (daily). 10924 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.441.9667; 1842 E. 1st St., Boyle Heights, 323.265.2887 $$ Map L8, K10, east of H17 malo Más Malo combines architectural splendor—it’s in a restored 1920s building—with 21st-century, Mexico City-meets-L.A. décor and cuisine. The original Malo in Silver Lake is less glam, but also hip. Malo: Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Más Malo: Br (Sa-Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 4326 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.664.1011; 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.985.4332 $$ Map south of W23, I16 picca New. Ricardo Zarate’s second Peruvian restaurant has grander ambitions, with a more dressed-up dining room and larger menu featuring small plates of ceviches, tiraditos, anticuchos, Peruvian-style sushi. Mezzanine bar serves pisco cocktails. D (M–Sa). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0133 $$ Map J11 playa “Urban Latin” small plates from chef John Sedlar.

Tapas include maize cakes with fillings such as shrimp, Napa cabbage and mustard ice cream; flower-inlaid tortillas are a Sedlar signature. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300 $$ Map I13

Lucques Chef-owner Suzanne Goin delivers the next generation of California cuisine, which includes dishes such as fried squid salad with lipstick peppers and Thai basil, and pork belly with trumpet mushrooms and mustard greens. Nowhere do vegetables taste as good!

L (Tu–Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13

red o Rick Bayless, one of the leading authorities on Mexican cuisine in America, is consulting chef at this sexy, transporting Melrose eatery. Many of his thoughtful dishes are grounded in tradition, such as Pacific sole and Mazatlan blue shrimp ceviches and cochinita pibil. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009 $$$ Map I12

mezze Mediterranean and Middle Eastern small plates. Signature dishes are yellowtail crudo with toasted pine nuts and cherry gremolata, and flatbreads topped with merguez sausage and tomato jam. D (M–Sa). 401 La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.657.4103 $$$ Map I12

rivera Chef John Sedlar showcases his flair for pan-Latin flavors and attention to detail; consider the housemade nixtamal tortillas inlaid with edible flowers or plates with designs stenciled in spices. A pioneer of the cocktail movement, Rivera has an unbeatable tequila bar. L (M–F), D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I16

momed Lighter, contemporary Mediterranean in minimalist, casual yet sleek cafe. Try the pide (Turkish flatbread) with minced chicken and grilled peaches.

B, L, D (daily). 233 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.270.4444 $ Map J11 PETROS Fine contemporary Greek fare in a cool white dining room or on the covered patio. Dress code for indoor diners. L, D (daily). 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4100 $$$ Map L13 ray’s & Stark bar Petite, Renzo Piano–designed eatery at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Contemporary Med-inspired cuisine including vegetables cooked in wood-burning oven. Adjacent Stark Bar offers designer cocktails on an outdoor patio. L, D (Th–Tu). 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6180 $$ Map J13

Taberna mexicana Chef Alex Padilla’s Mexican cooking draws on his classic training, resulting in dishes such as pumpkin-seed-crusted scallops, mole-rubbed prime rib and interesting build-your-own tacos in a swanky space off Rodeo Drive. L, D (daily). 369 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.858.7070 $$ Map J11

Pan-Asian Crustacean A glass-covered koi-filled stream meanders under the bar at this Cal-Vietnamese eatery, and diners indulge in items from a “secret kitchen” in which only the owners’ family members are allowed. The garlic noodles are a signature. L (M–F), D (nightly). 9646 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 $$$ Map I11

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Dining LUkshon Sang Yoon of Father’s Office opens a slick Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and Far East-inspired cocktail program. D (M– Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 red medicine The progressive Vietnamese restaurant doesn’t hew to traditions, but the results are intriguing—and visually delicious—presentations. The menu also includes some Pan-Asian dishes such as chicken dumplings, green papaya salad and lamb belly with hoisin sauce. Open late. D (nightly). 8400 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.651.5500 $$$ Map J12 the spice tabLe Dishes inspired by Singaporean and Vietnamese traditions: satays, noodle soups, clay pot catfish, grilled or wood-burned vegetables. L, D (M–Sa). 114 S. Central Ave., Little Tokyo, 213.620.1840 $$ Map H17 wp24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. The restaurant might offer downtown’s best skyline views. Highlights include “Not Too Classic” hot and sour soup and steamed bao filled with foie gras. D (M–Sa). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15 Yamashiro This restaurant occupies a replica of a Kyoto palace with a garden court and city views, making it special before you even look at the menu. Cal-Asian fare includes miso salmon with lemon mashed potatoes and sweet-and-spicy shrimp. D (nightly). 1999 N. Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.5125 $$$ Map G13 YanGtze This contemporary Southeast Asian restaurant offers Thai, Chinese, Korean and Japanese cuisines amid contemporary art-filled décor. People-watch on the patio while enjoying sushi, spicy Thai noodles, curries and Jingmen harvest, an assortment of Chinese vegetables. L, D (daily). 1333 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.260.1994 $ Map L8

Quick Bites the appLe pan Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger aficionados wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu–Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 $ Map K10 in-n-oUt SoCal’s iconic burgers, cooked to order—try the off-menu “animal style”—plus fries and shakes. Seating and drive-through. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 7009 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 800.786.1000 and 10 other locations $ Map H13 m caFé de chaYa Macrobiotic cuisine that actually tastes good. Oh-so-L.A.! B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 7119 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.525.0588; 9433 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.858.8459 $ Map H13, J11 phiLippe the oriGinaL The purported birthplace of French dip sandwich, this down-home cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 45-cent coffee. Cash only. B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 $ Map G17 pink’s hot doGs There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot dog stand, open since 1939, which serves 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late.

B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 $ Map I13 tender Greens Cafeterialike concept serves tasty salads and comforting “hot plates” with proteins, greens and buttery mashed potatoes. L, D (daily). 9523 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.842.8300; 8759 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.1919; 6290 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.382.0380 $ Map L11, I12, H14

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Dining THE LOBSTER Enjoy a view of the Pacific while indulging in superlative seafood from this Santa Monica Pier-adjacent restaurant. The outdoor patio is most coveted for sampling the eponymous crustacean in various iterations. Chef Collin Crannell does a fine job with other seafood dishes, too. L, D (daily). 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.9294 $$$ Map L8

Raw bar at the Hungry Cat in Santa Monica

McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S Classy wood, glass and brass space; seafood any way you like it. Happy hour. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 206 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.0434; 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.405.0064; 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.629.1929; 2101 Rosecrans Ave., El Segundo, 310.416.1123; 3500 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.260.0505 $$ Map Q19, I11, H16, L13, T20

THE VEGGIE GRILL Cheery, fast-casual vegan restaurant that even carnivores can enjoy. Soy- and gluten-free options. L, D (daily). 8000 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.822.7575; 2025 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.1155; Plaza El Segundo, 720 Allied Way, El Segundo, 310.535.0025; Rolling Hills Plaza, 2533 Pacific Coast Hwy., Torrance, 310.325.6689 $ Map H12, L8, C2, N14

PARKERS’ LIGHTHOUSE This casually elegant restaurant’s waterfront location affords 360-degree views of Long Beach Harbor. Menu offerings include a wide selection of seafood—stuffed Atlantic salmon, Alaskan king crab legs, inventive sushi—plus traditional chophouse fare such as USDA Prime steaks. L, D (daily). 435 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach, 562.432.6500 $$ Map N16

WURSTKÜCHE Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Arts District bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, alligator and pork andouille. Open late. L, D (daily). 800 E. 3rd St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice. 213.687.4444 $ Map I17, M9

PROVIDENCE Chef-owner Michael Cimarusti transforms seafood from the world’s most pristine waters into inventive dishes such as kampachi with miso, buttermilk and green grapes, and striped bass with bacon and Bordelaise sauce. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14

Seafood BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Oceanfront cafe offers a very respectable lobster roll (served with mayo or butter) and other New England specialties, plus a variety of seasonal oysters. L, D (daily). 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$ Map L8 CATCH Minimalist Catch’s centerpiece is a beautiful, mother-of-pearl sushi bar, but raw fish is just the beginning. Try exquisite cooked preparations such as skate wing and braised pork cheeks with an extraordinary view of the Pacific Ocean. B, L, D (daily). 1910 Ocean Way, Santa Monica, 310.581.7714 $$$ Map M8 CHART HOUSE These restaurants offer seafood and chophouse fare in seaside settings. In addition to newer menu items—a crab, avocado and mango stack, snapper Hemingway—are old favorites including slowroasted prime rib and chocolate lava cake. L (call for hours), D (nightly). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.9321; 13950 Panay Way, Marina del Rey, 310.822.4144; 231 Yacht Club Way, Redondo Beach, 310.372.3464 $$ Map west of K7, N9, M13 DUKE’S MALIBU Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this oceanfront restaurant captures the spirit of aloha. Not to be outshone by the spectacular views is the cuisine, which features a daily selection of fresh fish and tropical cocktails. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 $$ Map west of K7 GLADSTONE’S MALIBU One of SoCal’s biggest hits with a million visitors each year. Dramatic ocean views. B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.454.3474 $$ Map west of K7 THE HUNGRY CAT East Coast fare in hip little spots.

Dungeness crab benedict; you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the half-pound. Hollywood: Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (nightly); Santa Monica: D (nightly). Sunset+Vine,

ROY’S Chef Roy Yamaguchi began cooking his innovative Pacific Rim cuisine in L.A. many years ago, well ahead of his time. He returns as a superstar, with a chain of contemporary Hawaiian-inspired restaurants.

D (nightly). Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). 800 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.488.4994; 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.888.4801; 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.356.4066 $$$ Map I16, west of A1, Q21 SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates such as salmon collar, miniature lobster rolls and shrimp toast sandwiches in a nautically themed space.

D (nightly). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12 WATER GRILL Downtown’s premier seafood restaurant is famed for its huge platters of fruits de mer from the oyster bar. Low-temperature cooking methods are used in dishes such as sauteed Columbia River sturgeon, yielding sensational results. There’s no corkage fee, so why not BYOB? L (M–F), D (nightly). 544 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.891.0900 $$$$ Map H16

Spanish BAR PINTXO Prominent California chef Joe Miller (Joe’s) offers authentic tortilla Española, bacalao and croquetas de jamón and Spanish wines. L, D (daily).

109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.2012 $$$ Map M8 THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to the eminently stylish SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic fare to the molecular gastronomy creations that have made Spain a culinary leader. Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable 22-course prix fixe menu. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$ Map H16

CAFE SEVILLA Authentic Spanish fare and tapas bar on a bustling strip in downtown Long Beach.

Dinner show on Saturdays; nightclub upstairs. D (nightly). 140 Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.1111 $$ Map N16 PRIMITIVO WINE BISTRO Fun tapas, extensive wine list and festive vibe. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 1025 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.5353 $$$ Map M9

Steak ARNIE MORTON’S OF CHICAGO Clubby ambience, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. L (M–F), D (nightly). 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; The Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I16, T20 BLT STEAK This winning formula on the Sunset Strip proves that the French bistro and the American steakhouse can be seamlessly blended. After appetizers such as tuna tartare or the complimentary Gruyère cheese popovers, steaks are the main attraction, ranging from ultrapricey Kobe to domestic Angus beef.

D (Tu–Sa). 8720 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.1950 $$$$ Map H12 BOA Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily); West Hollywood: L (M–F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H11 CULTURE 22 Food Network star Rahm Fama (Meat & Potatoes) opens a slick contemporary steakhouse with a chic raw bar. Cocktails include a Bloody Mary spiked with Sriracha sauce. L, D (daily). 45 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.8888 $$$ Map Q19 CUT A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the place to savor genuine Kobe beef steaks ($120plus) or dry-aged Nebraska beef. Puck’s menu is short on nostalgia but long on flavor. D (M–Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$$ Map J11 FOGO DE CHÃO The city’s best churrascaria—those Brazilian steakhouse-barbecue restaurants—is this restaurant with muraled walls and soaring ceilings. After a trip to a massive salad-appetizer bar, guests are treated to an endless procession of meats carved right onto their plates. L (M–F), D (nightly). 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.289.7755 $$$ Map J12 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where the maître d’ juggles Hollywood heavyweights, each demanding his favorite table for deal-making lunches. Polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and chicken pot pies in a dining room with classic good looks. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; The Grill on Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.856.5530; 120 E. Promenade Way, Thousand Oaks, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, H13, north of A10 L.A. PRIME Dine in high style 35 floors up. Aged USDA certified Prime beef from Chicago. D (nightly).

Westin Bonaventure, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.624.1000 $$$ Map H16 LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB A Restaurant Row classic. Prime rib, to-die-for creamed corn and spinach served with showmanship from table-side carts. D (nightly). 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.2827 $$$ Map I12 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in-filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11

NOE MONTES

1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7

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Authentic Thai Chinese and Sushi Bar Dining & Outdoor Patio

1333 3rd St. Promenade Santa Monica

YANGTZE_WLA-0910v1.indd 1

310.260.1994 FAX 310.260.1944

Dining Nick & Stef’S A modern interpretation of the classic American steakhouse, Nick & Stef’s offers architecturally exciting dining rooms and a wraparound patio lounge that’s a favorite of downtown workers waiting out traffic. USDA Prime beef is aged on-site in a glass-encased aging chamber. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 Pacific DiNiNg car Filet mignon at 3 am? It can be had at L.A.’s grandest 24-hour eatery, open since 1921. B, L, D (daily). 1310 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.483.6000; 2700 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.4000 $$$ Map H16, K8 queeNSview SteakhouSe High-end steaks and seafood, libations and live music above Parkers’ Lighthouse. D (Th–Sa). 435 Shoreline Drive, Long Beach, 562.432.6500 $$$$ Map D3

8/6/10 9:55 AM

ruth’S chriS Steak houSe Ruth’s Chris Steak House serves superfine Midwestern corn-fed beef, broiled in 1,800-degree ovens and served sizzling on 500-degree plates. Although steak is king, the menu also includes expertly executed seafood, lamb, pork and poultry dishes. L (varies), D (nightly).

224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8744; 369 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.583.8122 $$$ Map I11, Q20

Stk Sultry steakhouse for the young crowd, with fun appetizers such as shrimp “rice krispies” and Wagyu beef sliders. Open-air lounge with DJ. D (nightly). 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.3535 $$$$ Map I12 woLfgaNg’S SteakhouSe Chef Wolfgang Zwiener opens outpost of his New York steakhouse.

Try the dry-aged porterhouse steak for two, three or four. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 445 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0640 $$$$ Map J11

Thai chaN Dara Traditional specialties. L, D (daily). 11940 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.479.4461; 1511 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.8585; House of Chan Dara, 310 N. Larchmont Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.1052 $$ Map L10, H14, I14 NataLee thai Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern décor. Among entrees are Nutty Chicken (a spicy combo of chicken, onion and dried chili) and a whole pompano in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11 PaLmS thai This spot near the Pantages Theater is more known for its entertainment than its cooking, but both are worth the trip. Kavee Thongprecha, “the Thai Elvis,” does campy interpretations of the King’s repertory. Unusual menu items include frog legs with chili and basil. L, D (daily). 5900 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5073 $ Map H14 taLÉSai Elegant duo of eateries serving refined Thai cuisine). L (M–F), D (nightly). 9043 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 9198 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.271.9345 $ Map I12, J11

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208 RODEO Set atop the stairs on Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street, 208 Rodeo serves up luxury and bistro fare in a unique, romantic setting. Exuding Rodeo Drive elegance, the restaurant’s flagstone patio overlooks the Beverly Wilshire hotel, setting of the film Pretty Woman, and it is set amid the ritzy boutiques of Two Rodeo. Whether you desire a leisurely meal or a quick bite, 208 Rodeo offers both amid warm Hollywood Regency décor. The eatery serves a California cuisine with pan-Asian and French influences, offering dishes that are beautifully presented and imaginatively prepared with seasonal ingredients. 208 Rodeo also offers cocktails, wines and beers as well as delectable desserts and Illy espresso coffees. A children’s menu is available for all meals. B, L, D (daily).

Starters Smoked salmon parfait Crispy calamari Tuna tartare Roasted baby beet Foie gras Truffled French and sweet fries Sesame prawns Cheese platter Caesar salad Entrees Gourmet grilled cheese sandwich Penne arrabiata Seafood salad Seared ahi tuna sandwich Mushroom-and-salmon pasta Kosher rib eye Squash ravioli Poached Chilean sea bass Pickled pork belly Roasted salmon Filet mignon Roasted poussin Desserts Chocolate Florentine cannoli Mixed berry rolada Caramel Napoleon tiramisu Triple-layer chocolate mousse White chocolate cheese cake Fruit tart

208 Via Rodeo, Beverly Hills

310.275.2428 208rodeo.com

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ArTISAN HoUSE Located on the ground floor of L.A.’s historic Pacific Electric Building— now the PE Lofts—Artisan House honors the Old World, from its stylish reclaimed interior to its seasonal California Mediterranean cuisine. Large arched windows, 24-foot ceilings and an open floor plan provide a stunning backdrop for the dining area, which features design touches such as period tile, walnut flooring, beech wood chairs and marble tabletops.

Alfresco dining is available at street level, or with incredible urban views from the coveted rooftop, where a garden provides fresh herbs and veggies for the kitchen. Artisan House’s dine-in menu, which includes everything from shared plates to entrees, showcases regional farmers’ products and craft food and beverages. Customers can also opt to shop at the take-out market and deli, which peddles fine meats, cured seafood, aged cheeses and a global selection of wine, beer, olive oil and other goods. B, L, D (daily).

600 S Main St., downtown

213.622.6333

Salads House mixed greens Truffle beets and feta Grilled romaine hearts Dandelion greens Caprese Panzanella Quinoa tabbouleh Israeli couscous Greek chopped Roasted rainbow carrots in citrus ginger vinaigrette Toasted seasonal mushroom mix Green beans with pine nut tahini Broccolini with crushed chili flakes and lemon vinaigrette Peewee potato salad with boiled eggs Share Plates Fritto misto Burrata and house-cured trout belly Seasonal ceviche Sicilian spicy tuna tartare Prime beef crudo Foie gras cappuccino Flatbreads Tarte flambée Margherita Diavola Tartufo bianco Entrees Winter gnocchi Apple mustard brined airline chicken breast Whole wheat tagliatelle alla Bolognese Crispy skin grilled saltwater trout Duroc pork jäger-schnitzel Steak frites San Francisco cioppino

artisanhouse.net

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS

BENIHANA At the heart of the Benihana experience lies the teppanyaki table, where masterful chefs expertly prepare fine Japanese cuisine on hibachi grills.

Favorites such as filet mignon, New York strip steak, colossal shrimp with butter and lemon, cold-water lobster and the signature hibachi chicken fried rice are cooked to order right in front of guests. Patrons are sure to enjoy the show by Benihana chefs, who are as well known for their culinary theatrics as they are for their outstanding cooking. The appetizer menu includes sushi and tempura selections. Interesting wines, premium imported sake, colorful cocktails and deliciously flavored iced teas are featured on the beverage menu as well as non-alcoholic frozen specialties. Children 12 and under can choose from the Kabuki Kids menu.

L, D (daily).

Starters Assorted maki (sushi rolls) Hand roll combination Sushi sampler Sashimi sampler Calamari, shrimp or scallop tempura Beef sashimi Shrimp, scallop or calamari sautÊ Edamame Miso soup Hibachi chicken rice Spicy seafood soup Entrees Filet mignon Hibachi steak Hibachi lemon chicken Colossal mango shrimp Spicy hibachi chicken Hibachi Chateaubriand Salmon tsutsumiyaki Hibachi tuna steak Hibachi scallops Hibachi shrimp Twin lobster tails Spicy tofu steak Seafood Diablo with udon noodles Yakisoba Emperors salad Desserts Häagen-Dazs ice cream Green tea ice cream Fresh pineapple boat Banana tempura

38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills

323.655.7311 benihana.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters “Little Gem Caeser” salad Burrata cheese and heirloom tomatoes Roasted organic artichokes

paparazzI rISToraNTE Paparazzi Ristorante in the Sheraton Gateway Hotel near LAX delights diners with fresh pasta in authentic sauces as well as artistically prepared seafood, poultry and steaks. Chef Orazio Parisi inspires the senses with his simple, classic Italian cuisine with a gentle nod to southern Italy.

Start with a tasty salad such as the “Little Gem Caeser”, or choose from appetizers that include eggplant parmigiana or tuna tartar with blood orange vinaigrette and an artichoke puree. The house specialty is “Il Cioppino dei Paparazzi”, an enticing combination of seafood in a fennel pomodoro broth served with a classic garlic ciabatta or try the terra e mare, an Angus filet mignon served alongside wild Pacific prawns, asparagus and gorgonzola mashed potatoes. Pasta lovers can also find comfort with the robust flavorings of the garganelli alla Salsiccia, lasagna al brasato or spaghetti alla chitarra. Dine in a crisp, clean and classy décor. An elegant private dining room accommodates 40 guests and is equipped for entertainment and audio-visual needs. D (M–Sa).

Entrees Spaghetti alla chitarra Tagliatelle alla bolognese Garganelli con Salsiccia Lasagna al brasato Il cioppino dei Paparazzi Filetto alla griglia Bistecca al pepe verde La bistecca del vaccaro Ossobuco Organic lamb chops Pan-seared branzino al “salmoriglio” Sicilian pistachio-crusted Alaskan halibut Desserts Crema fredda al limoncello Profiteroles Tiramisu

6101 W. Century Blvd., Westchester

310.642.4820 sheratonlax.com/paparazzi

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Jumbo lump crab cake Pacific Coast steamers Spicy seared ahi tuna New England-style clam chowder Diver scallops Sashimi sampler

ParkErS’ LIGHTHoUSE With its signature seafood and steaks, warm service and breathtaking views of Long Beach Harbor and the Queen Mary, Parkers’ Lighthouse— now featuring Queensview Steakhouse on the third floor—is a perennial favorite of locals and visitors alike. Located in a fully operational lighthouse that has become the landmark for Shoreline Village, Parkers’ has long been the place to go for the freshest, locally sourced seafood, sushi or steaks. Guests may dine in the soaring, casually elegant dining room or on a romantic waterfront patio. The recently introduced Queensview Steakhouse, which boasts 360-degree views of the harbor, Pacific Ocean and sparkling city skyline, is the South Bay’s newest special-occasion spot, specializing in premium steaks and chops. Its exclusive supper club experience includes live jazz in an inviting lounge with club chairs and a bar turning out old classics and innovative specialty cocktails. L, D (daily).

Entrees Macadamia nut-crusted mahi mahi Chilean sea bass Daily selection of grilled fresh fish Crab- and shrimp-crusted salmon Prime New York strip steak Alaskan king crab Shelton Farms boneless half-chicken Surf & turf Maple-glazed prime pork loin Desserts Fuji apple cobbler Godiva Swiss chocolate cake Warm Tollhouse pie Trio of fresh seasonal fruit sorbets New York-style cheesecake

435 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach

562.432.6500 parkerslighthouse.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Mezze plate Chilled English pea soup Grilled asparagus salad Kerry’s mac and cheese Tuscan kale and caramelized fennel Market ratatouille Roasted garlic mashed potato

SIMoN LA At Simon LA, chef/partner Kerry Simon, winner of the Food Network’s Iron Chef, serves his signature brand of American comfort fare. Named the “rock ’n’ roll chef” by Rolling Stone magazine, Simon delivers delightfully simple, straightforward cuisine including bluefin tuna tartare with lemongrass oil, brick-roasted organic chicken with spiced chickpeas and harissa herb aioli, and cowboy rib-eye with crispy shallot rings. For dessert, try the group-friendly junk food platter, filled with grown-up versions of nostalgic treats from childhood. Meals are served in a visually eclectic dining room decorated with earthy, organic tones and leather accents. A candlelit outdoor patio features plush couches and oversize pillows. Br (Sa–Su), B, L, D (daily).

Entrees Roasted salmon on papardelle Roasted pacific halibut Cowboy rib-eye Kobe skirt steak on herbed farro Ahi tuna with wasabi mashed potatoes Meatloaf and garlic mashed potatoes Braised prime beef shortribs Brick-roasted chicken

8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.358.3979 simonlarestaurant.com

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TaBErNa MExIcaNa Experience modern Mexican cuisine at the new Beverly Hills hot spot Taberna Mexicana. Crispy plantain, yucca and blue corn strips paired with authentic salsas greets each guest—a welcome change from ubiquitous tortilla chips and the first clue that Taberna Mexicana does things differently. The atmosphere is casually sophisticated, paying tribute to the culture of Mexico in a vibrant color scheme. The bar scene is lively. Chef Alex Padilla, trained under famed San Francisco chef Nancy Oaks, honed his craft in Mexico and Europe, lending a crosscultural flair to each dish on the menu. The signature dishes include cochinita pibil, a 48-hour marinated Yucatan pork stew, plus pumpkinseed-crusted scallops, mole-rubbed prime rib and braised duck tacos.

The margaritas are created with small-batch distillery tequila, freshsqueezed juices, agave nectar and sea salt, occasionally muddled with a fistful of seasonal fresh fruit such as Bing cherries, pumpkin or even avocado. L, D (daily).

Starters Guacamole with pumpkin seeds Lamb masa boats Shrimp & crab empanada Mushroom quesadilla Tortilla soup with pasilla chile Albondigas in spicy broth with avocado Farmers market salad Mexican Cobb salad Ahi tuna ceviche Cripsy calamari Citrus shrimp and snapper ceviche Entrees Chicken and chorizo tacos Filet mignon tacos with mole rub Crispy duck tacos with morita sauce Bacon-wrapped shrimp tacos Grilled fish tacos Roasted rabbit enchiladas in mole sauce Spinach & corn enchilada Cochinita pibil Stuffed poblano chile Pulled wood oven chicken sandwich Fajita burger Chorizo burger Desserts Tres leches Ginger doughnuts Flourless chocolate cake Kahlua flan caramel

369 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills

310.858.7070 tabernamexicana.com

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la dining Il Fornaio Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include house-made pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto, and rotisserie meats. Artisan breads and pasta are made fresh daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions. Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2008.

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 ilfornaio.com

Noé Restaurant & Bar Nestled among skyscrapers and the water features of California Plaza is Noé Restaurant & Bar in the Omni Los Angeles Hotel. Awarded a notable 3 fork-and-knife rating in the Los Angeles 2008 Michelin Guide, executive chef Glen Ishii’s market-driven menu of neo bistro cuisine tempts palates of diners nightly. With portion sizes ranging from delicate small plates to full-bodied entrees, Noé Restaurant & Bar has become a popular setting for downtown residents to unwind or for theater patrons grabbing a quick bite before the curtain rises at the numerous theaters in the area. This fall, in honor of Cirque du Soleil’s new show, Iris, Noé offers fans a three-course prix fixe menu evoking the whimsical production’s cinematic theme. D (nightly).

Omni Los Angeles Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown 213.356.4100 noerestaurant.com

GORDON RAMSAY AT THE LONDON WEST HOLLYWOOD Choose fine dining at the luxurious Michelin-rated Gordon Ramsay at the London or a casual bistro-style alternative at Ramsay’s Boxwood Café. Both restaurants feature sophisticated contemporary American dishes. Menu offerings at Boxwood include a breakfast table buffet, and its famous cheeseburger with Grafton cheddar. Gordon Ramsay at the London features beef Wellington and a tender roasted lamb.

Enjoy signature cocktails from the London Bar with live entertainment Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays. Executive chef Anthony Keene helms both restaurants. Gordon Ramsay at the London: D (daily); Boxwood Café: B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su) 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood 310.358.7788 thelondonwesthollywood.com/gordon_ramsay special advertising section

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la dining The Stinking Rose Located on Beverly Hills’ famed Restaurant Row, The Stinking Rose has made a name for itself, and its popularity is evident—people fill the unique dining rooms to partake of the tasty food enhanced by the fragrant bulb. Specialties include two pounds of whole, garlic-roasted Dungeness crab in a secret garlic sauce, garlic-encrusted baby back ribs, the ever-popular forty-clove garlic chicken and the silence-of-the-lamb shank with Chianti glaze and fava beans (shown at right). L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd. (near Wilshire Blvd.), Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 thestinkingrose.com

Bouchon Bistro Bouchon emphasizes leading American chef and restaurateur Thomas Keller’s reputation for impeccable ingredients and service, offered in a vibrant gem of a dining room. Rooted in tradition, the bistro highlights France’s culinary heritage, serving such classic entrees as steak frites and trout amandine, as well as an extensive raw bar. Also on the menu, find assorted charcuterie and cheeses, quiches, salads and soups; an international wine list boasts selections from France and the U.S., primarily California. Located downstairs and open from 10am–10pm, Bar Bouchon has a traditional neighborhood feel and features an extensive bar menu.

Br (Sa-Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).

235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills 310.271.9910 bouchonbistro.com

Vampire Lounge

& Tasting Room Discover a seductive escape in the heart of Beverly Hills at Vampire Lounge & Tasting Room. On the menu is Vampire Vineyards’ full range of delicious wines; try Dracula Syrah, Trueblood Pinot Noir or Je T’aime Rosé Champagne. Also sample bittersweet chocolates, superb cappuccinos, fine teas and other delicious `lite bites’. The lounge features décor with gothic undertones, including plush red velvet upholstery and gold-and-crystal chandeliers. Twilight Happy Hour, featuring 25 percent off reserve wines, is a must. Anne Rice fans will adore this place, which offers a chance to sip the blood of the vine. Gifts and specialty food products are also available.

9865 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.826.7473 vampiretastingroom.com special advertising section

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la dining LUCA-Fresh Bites LUCA-Fresh Bites is a welcome city retreat where customers can find healthy menu options using the freshest natural and organic ingredients in an eco-friendly contemporary setting.

The menu is inspired by the simple and wholesome food that you would find in a typical Italian home with a touch of Southern California cuisine. The design of the restaurant is an extension of the menu. They used eco-friendly building materials, natural finishes and extensive plantings to create a peaceful and natural environment where customers can escape the demands of their day and the bustling L.A. traffic. B, L, D (daily).

7950 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood 323.822.2900 lucafreshbites.com

Cafe Sierra Within walking distance of Universal Studios Entertainment Center, Cafe Sierra offers an extravagant, Vegas-style seafood, lobster and prime rib dinner buffet with entertainment. On the weekend, they offer a delectable champagne brunch which has been voted best in Los Angeles. Signature American international breakfast buffet, which is perfect for early morning power meetings and offers Wi-Fi capabilities.

A la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner menus offer a wide selection of continental cuisine. With a wide selection of award winning wines, the atrium lounge features great appetizers and happy hour. Alfresco dining at Hollywood Pool and Cabanas (weather permitting). Free self-parking.

10% discount on dinner buffet with hotel key. B, L, D (daily).

555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City 818.509.2030 hiltonuniversal.com

Matteo’s Restaurant

Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining status as the epitome of classic cool. A unique menu that changes with the seasons and an upscale supper club atmosphere form a winning combination of homey and hip. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu feature sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials.

Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7 and under bar menu. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521 matteosla.com special advertising section

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Chef-Owner

Francesco Velasco

R B & c V d c s

Shows His Rustic Side

Now opeN!

r th th o a is w a u to te “ a

362 North Camden Drive in Beverly Hills, California 90210 www.tradinoirestaurants.com 310-277-7346

L

Left top | Ligurian Focaccia di Recco Left MiddLe | Genoese-style focaccia,

strewn with roasted vegetables

Left BottoM | Baker Mauricio Salinas

checking the temperature of the pizza oven ABove top | Chef-Owner Francesco Velasco, with freshly sliced, imported proscuitto ABove | brioche and coronettes just out of the oven photos by Matthew Fried

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shariNg space with Tra di Noi Ristorante & Bar on Camden Drive in Beverly Hills, La Focacceria Artisan Bread & Bakery Café specializes in rustic Italian cuisine. Executive Chef-Owner Francesco Velasco wants to use La Focacceria to demonstrate his soulful side, creating comfort food like roasted chicken, braised short ribs, pizza, sandwiches, and pastries.

Before launching the bakery, Velasco researched focaccia in all its varying forms throughout Italy. What most Americans think of as focaccia—a spongy, hole-filled, one-inch thick bread flavored with olive oil and topped with rosemary and onions— is from Genoa. Velasco doesn’t like the woody texture of roasted rosemary, so to avoid it, he infuses that herb in the olive oil used to make the dough. He also prefers to cut the onions vertically to get the best texture possible on the top of the focaccia.

“The onions release too much water if they are cut horizontally,” he insists. For this

Genoese-style of focaccia, often strewn with roasted vegetables, Velasco will change the toppings seasonally.

Another kind of focaccia is served in the region of Liguria. This Roman focaccia is paper-thin and crispy, usually presented without any toppings at all. Velasco likes to layer Taleggio cheese between these thin sheets and create a sort of focaccia tart that resembles a pizza with an amazing amount of flavor. In Italy it’s known as Focaccia di Recco. Instead of Taleggio, he might spread a mixture of braised leeks, mortadella, and a Parmesan cheese sauce between the focaccia sheets, also to excellent effect.

Of course Velasco uses his focaccia bread to make sandwiches. “A sandwich is like a building,” he says. “We start with the bread, consider its structure, and then decide on the amount and type of filling.” That filling might take advantage of the wide selection of Italian cured meats called salumi flown in from

BeLow | three pizzas on the patio BottoM | Genoese focaccia cooking at 750

degrees for 3 minutes.

photos by Matthew Fried

La Focacceria

artisan bread & bakery café

before launching the bakery, Velasco researched focaccia in all its varying forms throughout italy.

New York from Salumeria Rosi. Or the many artisan cheeses on display behind the bakery counter. Or Velasco’s housecured pickles and spreads. He assembles everything from a simple prosciutto-andbutter sandwich to a New-Orleans-style muffaletta on ciabatta bread.

For the pastries, Velasco again looked all over Italy for inspiration. The coronetto is a horn-shaped pastry similar to a croissant,

and he fills his with fruit jams, custards, sweet ricotta, and even nutella. One of his favorite pastries is the lemon brioche with sweet ricotta cheese. The bread is infused with orange-blossom water and the ricotta is studded with lemon peel. It’s the perfect accompaniment to a strong cup of espresso, and a sweet way to celebrate an afternoon break.

362 North Camden Drive in Beverly Hills, California 90210 www.tradinoirestaurants.com 310-277-7346

La Focacceria

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Restaurants City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine.

BEVERLY HILLS

lukshon (Pan-Asian)................................................... 75

THE BAZAAR (Spanish).............................................. 76 bouchon (French).........................................................71 CHAYA (California)............................................................ 70 CRUSTACEAN (Pan-Asian)........................................ 74 Culina (Italian)............................................................... 72 CUT (Steak).......................................................................... 76 the grill on the alley (Steak)................ 76 IL CIELO (Italian).............................................................. 72 il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 72 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)................... 76 m café de CHAYA (Quick Bites)......................... 75 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)............ 76 momed (Mediterranean)................................................ 74 MR. CHOW (Chinese).................................................... 70 mr. c restaurant (Italian)............................... 72 NATALEE THAI (Thai)................................................ 77 POLO LOUNGE (California)....................................... 70 RUTH’s CHRIS (Steak)................................................ 77 Scarpetta (Italian).................................................... 72 SPAGO (California)............................................................ 70 taberna mexicana (Mexican)....................... 74 talésai (Thai)................................................................. 77 208 Rodeo (California).............................................. 70 URasawa (Japanese)................................................... 74 wolfgang’s Steakhouse (Steak)......... 77

NATALEE THAI (Thai)................................................ 77

BEVERLY Boulevard 3RD street MELROSE avenue Angelini osteria (Italian). ............................. 72 aoc (Mediterranean).................................................... 74 Comme çA (French).......................................................71 eva restaurant (California)................................... 70 fig & Olive (Mediterranean).................................... 74 hatfield’s (California)............................................70 ink. (American)................................................................... 68 jar (American).................................................................... 68 Joan’s on third (American)...........................68 the little door (French)................................... 72 lucques (Mediterranean)........................................... 74 m café de chaya (Quick Bites)......................... 75 OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian)....................................... 72 Pizzeria Mozza (Italian)..................................... 72 playa (Latin)..................................................................... 74 providence (Seafood)............................................. 76 red medicine (Pan-Asian)...................................... 75 red o (Mexican)............................................................... 74 Simon L.A. (American)............................................... 68 son of a gun (Seafood)........................................ 76 sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 74

Brentwood KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 73 sugarfish (Japanese)................................................ 73 restaurant at getty (California).............. 70 TAVERN (California).............................. 70 VINCENTI ristorante (Italian)...................... 73

tender greens (Quick Bites)........................... 75 Waterloo & City (British)..............................70

downtown aburiya toranoko (Japanese)..................... 73 arnie morton’s (Steak)...................................... 76 artisan house (Mediterranean)........................ 74 bottega louie (Italian)........................................ 72 cbs seafood (Chinese).......................................... 70 chaya (California)............................................................ 70 church & State (French).......................................71 cicada (Italian)............................................................... 72 drago centro (Italian)........................................ 72 first & HOPE (Club).................................................. 70 katsuya (Japanese)...................................................... 73 kendall’s brasserie (French).......................71 L.a. prime (Steak)......................................................... 76 la serenata de garibaldi (Mexican)....... 74 lazy ox canteen (Brew/Pub)......................... 69 Maddalena (Italian)................................................. 72 más malo (Mexican)................................................... 74 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)............ 76 nick and stef’s (Steak)...................................... 77 NOÉ (American).................................................................. 68 OCEAN SEAFOOD (Chinese)................................. 70 pacific dining car (Steak).............................. 77 patina (French)................................................................ 72 PHILIPPE the original (Quick Bites).......... 75 rivera (Latin).................................................................. 74 roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 76 seoul jung (Korean)................................................ 74 the spice table (Pan-Asian).............................. 75 SUGARFISH (Japanese)................................................ 73 TAKAMI SUSHI (Japanese)........................................ 74 water grill (Seafood)............................................ 76 WP24 (Pan-Asian)............................................................. 75 wurstkÜche (Quick Bites).................................... 76

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE barbrix (Mediterranean)............................................ 74 chan dara (Thai)...................................................... 77 cleo (Mediterranean)...................................................... 74 delphine (French)..........................................................71 the grill on hollywood (Steak)......... 76 HARD ROCK CAFE (American)............................. 68 the HUNGRY CAT (Seafood)................................. 76 in-n-out (Quick Bites).................................................. 75 KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 73 lamill coffee boutique (American).... 68

MUSSO & FRANK (American)................................. 68 PaLMS THAI (Thai)..................................................... 77 public kitchen + Bar (Brew/Pub).............. 69 rolling stone (American).................................. 68 supperclub (Club).................................................... 70 Susan feniger’s street (Eclectic).............71

ARNIE MORTON’S (Steak)...................................... 76 mccormick & Schmick’s (Seafood)............ 76

umami burger (American)................................... 69

tender greens (Quick Bites)........................... 75 YAMASHIRO (Pan-Asian)............................................ 75

BREEZE (California)......................................................... 70 CRAFT (American)............................................................ 68

LA BREA/MIDTOWN

Culver City

chosun galbee (Korean).................................... 74

a-Frame (Eclectic)......................................................... 70 akasha (California)....................................................... 70 father’s office 2 (Brew/Pub)......................69 ford’s filling station (Brew/Pub).......... 69

pink’s hot dogs (Quick Bites)........................... 75

ANIMAL (American)........................................................ 68 CaMPANILE (Mediterranean)..................................... 74

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FOGO DE CHÃO (Steak).......................................... 76 LAWRY’S PRIME RIB (Steak)................................ 76 MATSUHISA (Japanese)............................................... 73 mezze (Mediterranean).................................................. 74 NOBU (Japanese)............................................................... 73 THE STINKING ROSE (Italian)............................. 72 TANZORE (Indian).......................................................... 72

LONG BEACH café Sevilla (Spanish)........................................ 76 PARKERs’ LIGHTHOUSE (Seafood).................. 76

MALIBU charlie’s (American).................................................. 68 chart house (Seafood)......................................... 76 duke’s malibu (Seafood)...................................... 76 geoffrey’s (California)............................................ 70 gladstone’s malibu (Seafood).................... 76 NOBU MALIBU (Japanese)........................................ 73 saddle peak lodge (American)................... 68 tra di noi (Italian)...................................................... 72

ray’s & stark bar (Mediterranean)............... 74 soot bull jeep (Korean)..................................... 74 the tar pit (Club)...................................................... 70

sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 74 true food kitchen (American).................... 69 VALENTIno (Italian)..................................................... 72 YANGTZE (Pan-Asian)................................................... 75 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British)....................... 70

SOUTH BAY akbar (Indian)................................................................. 72 BENIHANA (Japanese).................................................. 73 buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 72 chart house (Seafood)......................................... 76 GINA LEE’S BISTRO (California).......................... 70 il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 72 MAR’SEL (California)....................................................... 70 m.b. post (American)................................................... 68 mccormick & schmick’s (Seafood)............ 76 PETROS (Mediterranean)............................................... 74 queensview steakhouse (Steak).......... 77 the strand house (American)....................... 68 the veggie grill (Quick Bites)......................... 76

UNIVERSAL CITY buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 72

MArina del rey

CAFE SIERRA (Eclectic)............................................. 70

chart house (Seafood)......................................... 76 SUGARFISH (Japanese)................................................ 73

HARD ROCK CAFE (American)............................. 68

pasAdena a/k/a bistro (American)........................................ 68 buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 72 cafe 140 south (California)................................ 70 cheval blanc bistro (French).....................71 culture 22 (Steak)..................................................... 76 1810 (Latin)........................................................................... 74 haven gastropub (Brew/Pub)....................... 69 il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 72 KATSUYA (Japanese)...................................................... 73 kings row gastroPub (Brew/Pub).......... 69 louise’s trattoria (Italian)........................... 72 maison akira (Eclectic)...........................................71 mccormick & schmick’s (Seafood)............ 76 new capital seafood (Chinese).............. 70 PALATE FOOD + WINE (California).................. 70 parkway grill (California).................................. 70 rose tree cottage (British).......................... 69 the royce (American)............................................... 68 roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 76 RUTH’s CHRIS (Steak)................................................ 77 smitty’s grill (American).................................... 68 sushi roku (Japanese)............................................. 74 vertical wine bistro (American)............. 69

louise’s trattoria (Italian)........................... 72 malo (Mexican)................................................................ 74

BURBANK

CENTURY CITY

LA CIENEGA boulevard RESTAURANT ROW

santa monica bar pintxo (Spanish)................................................ 76 blue plate oysterette (Seafood)............ 76 boa (Steak).......................................................................... 76 Border Grill (Mexican)........................................ 74 catch (Seafood)............................................................... 76 CHINOIS ON MAIN (California)............................. 70 farmshop (California)................................................ 70 father’s office (Brew/Pub)...........................69 fig restaurant (California)............................... 70 fraÎche (Mediterranean)............................................. 74 the hungry cat (Seafood)................................. 76 il fornaio (Italian).................................................... 72 ivy at the shore (American).........................68 jiraffe (French)...............................................................71 THE LOBSTER (Seafood)............................................ 76 MÉLISSE (French)............................................................. 72 Michael’s (California)................................................. 70 pacific dining car (Steak).............................. 77

Valley asanebo (Japanese).................................................... 73 BENIHANA (Japanese).................................................. 73 buca di beppo (Italian)......................................... 72 KATSU-YA (Japanese).................................................... 73 roy’s (Seafood)................................................................. 76 umami burger (American)................................... 69

VENICE chaya (California)............................................................ 70 GJELINA (Mediterranean)............................................. 74 JOE’S (California)............................................................... 70 piccolo (Italian)............................................................ 72 primitivo (Spanish)..................................................... 76 the tasting kitchen (California)................. 70

WEST HOLLYWOOD BLT STEAK (Steak)........................................................ 76 BOA (Steak).......................................................................... 76 cecconi’s (Italian)....................................................... 72 dominick’s (Italian).................................................... 72 Gordon Ramsay (Eclectic)...................................71 the hall (French)........................................................ 71 il sole (Italian)............................................................... 72 the ivy (American)............................................. ..........68 katana (Japanese)......................................................... 73 petrossian (French)............................................... 72 STK (Steak)........................................................................... 77 talÉsai (Thai)................................................................. 77 tender greens (Quick Bites)........................... 75 the veggie grill (Quick Bites)......................... 76

WESTSIDE the apple pan (Quick Bites)................................ 75 chan dara (Thai)...................................................... 77 il grano (Italian)......................................................... 72 la serenata de garibaldi (Mexican)........ 74 matteo’s (Italian)....................................................... 72 paparazzi (Italian)..................................................... 72 picca (Latin)...................................................................... 74 sotto (Italian).................................................................. 72 sushi sasabune (Japanese)............................. 74 westside tavern (California)........................... 70

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Entertainment Guidelines

waitinG fOR GODOt Opening March 14. Samuel Beckett’s tragicomedy tells the story of two men debating the meaning of life and the absurdities of human behavior as they wait on a country road. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

Index

tHe JacksOnian Through March 18. This mystery about a seedy motel and its inhabitants stars Ed Harris, Amy Madigan and Bill Pullman.

Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10

Map locators at the end of each listing (map a3; map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 107–110. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Special Events ....................91 Theater .................................91 Music + Dance....................91 Sports....................................91 Attractions .........................92 Studio Tours .......................94

Studio Tapings...................95 Museums ...........................95 Shopping.............................. 97 Spas .....................................100 Nightlife..............................101 Tours + Transport...........104

Special Events paleyfest March 2–14. The Paley Center for Media hosts this annual event with panels from top TV shows including American Horror Story, Modern Family, New Girl and Mad Men. All panels at 7 pm except for Revenge and Once Upon a Time (1 pm); visit paleycenter.org for schedule. $15–$75. Saban Theatre, 8440 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.786.1010 Map I11 swan lake March 3, 4, 10, 17, 24, 31. Los Angeles Ballet performs Tchaikovsky’s repopularized classic. $24– $95. March 3–4, UCLA Live (Royce Hall, Westwood, 310.998.7782); March 10, Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center (1935 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.372.4477); March 17, Alex Theatre (216 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.243.2539), March 24, Carpenter Performing Arts Center (6200 East Atherton St., Long Beach, 562.985.7000); March 31, Valley Performing Arts Center (18111 Nordhoff St., Northridge, 818.677.3000). losangelesballet.org Map J10, M13, east of T23, N16, west of A1 ppla fOOD faRe March 8. Thirty-third annual food fair featuring more than 150 restaurants such as Waterloo & City, Ammo and Salt’s Cure plus food trucks including the Border Grill Truck. Benefits Planned Parenthood. Day session 10:30 am–2 pm; evening session 6:30–9:30 pm. $150–$225. Santa Monica Civic Auditorium, 1855 Main St., Santa Monica, 213.284.3316 Map L8 HOnDa l.a. maRatHOn March 18. Twenty-seventh annual footrace begins at Dodger Stadium in Chavez Ravine and ends in Santa Monica with a closing festival at Santa Monica Pier. Free to view. Finish line at Ocean and California avenues, Santa Monica, 213.542.3000, lamarathon.com Map L8 pacific stanDaRD time: aRt in l.a.

1945–1980 Continuing. Cultural institutions in L.A. and beyond unite for this event, which features 60 exhibitions on the birth of the L.A. art scene. Venues include the Getty Center, Fowler Museum at UCLA and Hammer Museum. All participating venues listed online. pacificstandardtime.org

Theater ameRican niGHt: tHe BallaD Of JUan JOse Opening March 9. Comedy from Chicano theater troupe Culture Clash about a Mexican national’s desire to become a U.S. citizen. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 ameRican iDiOt Opening March 13. Green Day’s multiplatinum album inspires this rock opera from Broadway about three friends forced to choose between their dreams and the safety of suburbia. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16

ROck Of aGes March 20–25. An L.A. love story between a small-town girl and a big-city rocker set to songs of the 1980s. Pantages Theater, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.982.2787 Map H14 OvO Through March 25. Cirque du Soleil performs under the big top in a show inspired by insect life. Santa Monica Pier, 200 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, cirquedusoleil.com/ovo Map M8 iRis Ongoing. Cirque du Soleil’s new production, a tribute to film, takes up permanent residence at the Kodak Theatre. Fantastical score courtesy of Danny Elfman. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 877.943.4747 Map H13

Music + Dance DOROtHy cHanDleR paviliOn March 3, 8, 11, 14, 17 Los Angeles Opera, Albert Herring. March 23–25 Ballet Preljocaj 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 walt Disney cOnceRt Hall March 2–4 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Pablo Heras-Casado, violinist Martin Chalifour. March 4 Los Angeles Children’s Chorus, American Youth Symphony, conductor James Conlon, conductor Alexander Treger. March 6 Members of the L.A. Philharmonic. March 7 Pianist Jeffrey Kahane, violinist Margaret Batjer, cellist Andrew Shulman. March 10 Trey Anastasio, L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Scott Dunn. March 11 Kronos Quartet, Bill Frisell’s Beautiful Dreamers, Billy Childs. March 13 Willie Nelson and Family, Lukas Nelson. March 15 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Neeme Järvi, cellist Ralph Kirshbaum. March 17 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Neeme Järvi, cellist Mischa Maisky. March 18 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Neeme Järvi, cellist Alisa Weilerstein; cellists Steven Isserlis, Ralph Kirshbaum, Ronald Leonard, Laurence Lesser, Mischa Maisky, Jeffrey Solow, Raphael Wallfisch, Alisa Weilerstein. March 21 Zakir Hussain’s Masters of Percussion. March. 23–25 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Osmo Vänskä, clarinetist Martin Fröst. March 25 Organist Isabelle Demers. March 27 Keith Jarrett. March 30–31 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor James Gaffigan, pianist André Watts. March 31 Los Angeles Master Chorale. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16 tHe wilteRn March 3 Dub Police, Caspa, Trolley Snatcha. March 20 Of Montreal, Deerhoof. March 21 The Naked & Famous, Now. March 31 A-Trak, Jack Beats, Oliver. 3790 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 877.598.8698 Map J13

Sports staples centeR March 2 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Sacramento Kings. March 3 Los Angeles Kings vs. Anaheim Ducks. March 4 Lakers vs. Miami Heat. March 7–10 Pac-12 Tournament. March 11 Lakers vs. Boston Celtics; Los Angeles Clippers vs. Golden State Warriors. March 12 Clippers vs. Celtics. March 13 Kings vs. Detroit Red Wings. March 14 Clippers vs. Atlanta Hawks. March 15 Clippers vs. Phoenix Suns. March 16 Lakers vs. Minnesota Timberwolves. March 17 Clippers vs. Houston Rockets; Kings vs. Nashville Predators. March 18 Clippers vs. Detroit Pistons; Lakers vs. Utah Jazz. March 20

Cut to Clothes

“Fashion will go out of fashion” is one of the late Rudi Gernreich’s many memorable declarations, but his innovative fashion designs continue to resonate.The Total Look: The Creative Collaboration Between Rudi Gernreich, Peggy Moffitt, and William Claxton celebrates the collaboration between Gernreich, his muse Moffitt and Moffitt’s late husband, photographer Claxton, who created the distinctive images of Moffitt in Gernreich’s designs. On display at MOCA’s Pacific Design Center, the exhibition features selected looks from Moffitt’s definitive collection, with films and photographs

by Claxton of Moffitt modeling the clothes. (Pictured: Peggy Moffitt modeling Rudi Gernreich design, 1971, photo

by William Claxton.) p. 97

For the attraction King Kong 360 3-D at Universal Studios Hollywood, two curved screens the size of 16 movie theater screens are used to create the 3-D fantasy. p. 94

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Attractions + Museums DOWNTOWN DISNEY Twenty acres of admissionfree shopping, dining and nightlife adjacent to theme parks. 1510–1590 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim Map I10

KODAK THEATRE Tour the home of the Academy Awards. Daily 10:30 am–4 pm. $10–$15, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13

EGYPTIAN THEATRE Restored 1922 Hollywood landmark screens classics, cult favorites, indie films.

Excellent Forever Hollywood screens daily. Call for schedule. $5–$10. 6712 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.3456 Map H13

L.A. LIVE Burgeoning entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Nokia Theatre and Club Nokia; restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15

EL CAPITAN THEATRE 1926 Spanish-style movie palace screens Disney films new and old. Musical accompaniment to many shows. Call for schedule. $12–$13. VIP admission with reserved seat $25. 6838 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7674 Map H13

L.A. ZOO AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Wildlife in parklike setting. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $9–$14, under 2 free. Golden State (5) and Ventura (134) freeways, 5333 Zoo Drive, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23

EL PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES Birthplace of Los Angeles. Twenty-seven buildings include 1818 Avila Adobe, L.A.’s oldest. 130 Paseo de la Plaza, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17 Kings vs. San Jose Sharks. March 22 Kings vs. St. Louis Blues. March 23 Lakers vs. Portland Trail Blazers. March 24 Clippers vs. Memphis Grizzlies; Kings vs. Boston Bruins. March 25 Lakers vs. Grizzlies. March 26 Clippers vs. New Orleans Hornets. March 28 Clippers vs. Suns.

March 29 Lakers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. March 30 Clippers vs. Trail Blazers. March 31 Lakers vs. New Orleans Hornets; Clippers vs. Utah Jazz. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 800.745.3000 Map I15

EXPOSITION ROSE GARDEN Grassy pathways bisect 20,000 rose bushes of nearly 200 varieties.

Daily 9 am–5 pm. Free. 701 State Drive, downtown, 213.763.0114 Map K15

Attractions

GAMBLE HOUSE Landmark Arts & Crafts–style home.

First come, first served; reservations for daily 2 pm tour one week in advance. Th–Su noon–3 pm. $7–$12.50, under 12 free. 4 Westmoreland Place, Pasadena, 626.793.3334 Map Q19

ADAMSON HOUSE 1930s home filled with famed Malibu Potteries tile. Grounds open daily; house W–F 10:30 am–3:30 pm, Sa 11 am–3 pm. $2–$5, under 6 free. No credit cards. 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.8432 Map west of K7 AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Pet the sharks at Shark Lagoon; Lorikeet Forest, Monsters of the Abyss 3-D. Daily 9 am–6 pm. $12.95–$24.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island; daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended.

Call for hours. $25.50–$34.25 one way, $51–$68.50 round-trip; under 2, $2–$4. 800.995.4386, catalinaexpress.com CATHEDRAL OF OUR LADY OF THE ANGELS Stunning contemporary cathedral opposite Music Center.

M–F 6:30 am–6 pm; Sa 9 am–6 pm; Su 7 am–6 pm.

555 W. Temple St., downtown, 213.680.5200 Map H17 CHINATOWN Ornate architecture, dim sum, shops with Eastern wares. Art and antiques on Chung King Road. Between Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and Bernard Street, Yale and Spring streets, downtown Map G17 DESCANSO GARDENS North America’s largest camellia collection (34,000 plants amid 20 acres of oaks) and much more, including lilacs, azaleas, irises.

9 am–5 pm daily. $3–$8, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19 DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Recent additions include Finding Nemo Submarine Voyage.

Updated Star Tours, Pirates of the Caribbean and Space Mountain. Fireworks, fantastic Fantasmic! continues. Call for hours. Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $68–$76, under 2 free. 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map I10 DISNEY’S CALIFORNIA ADVENTURE Ariel’s Undersea Adventure is newest attraction. Call for hours.

Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $68– $76, under 2 free. 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map I10

FARMERS MARKET Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. M–F 9 am–9 pm; Sa 9 am–8 pm; Su 10 am–7 pm. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13

GOLD CLASS CINEMAS Deluxe dinner-and-amovie experience: Patrons recline in deluxe seats while being served dinner, cocktails, pillows, blankets during screenings. Daily 11 am–midnight. $19–$29. One Colorado, 41 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, 626.639.2260 Map Q19 GRAUMAN’S CHINESE THEATRE Historic Hollywood venue with walkway of stars’ hand- and footprints in the forecourt. Call for movie schedule. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.8111 Map H13 GREYSTONE MANSION AND PARK Gardens and park grounds open daily. Tours first Saturday of the month. 10 am–6 pm most days. Free. 905 Loma Vista Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.285.6830 Map I11 GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction overlooking Hollywood. Hourly shows at planetarium.

Tu–F noon–10 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–10 pm. Free; donations accepted. 2800 E. Observatory Road, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 GUINNESS WORLD RECORD MUSEUM Shrine to amazing achievements. Daily 10 am–midnight. $6.95–$15.95, under 6 free. 6764 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.463.6433 Map H13 HOLLYWOOD WALK OF FAME Celebs’ names are enshrined in bronze-and-terrazzo stars. Free. Hollywood Boulevard from Gower Street to La Brea Avenue, Hollywood, 323.469.8311 Map H13 HOLLYWOOD WAX MUSEUM Hollywood and pop culture greats in wax. Su–Th 10 am–midnight; F–Sa 10 am–1 am. $8.95–$15.95, $5.95–$12.95 online, under 5 free. 6767 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5991 Map H13 KNOTT’S BERRY FARM More than 165 rides and attractions. Roller coasters include Silver Bullet, GhostRider, Montezooma’s Revenge and Sierra Sidewinder. Call for hours. $22.99–$46.99, under 3 free. 8039 Beach Blvd., Buena Park, 714.220.5200 Map D5

LOS ANGELES COUNTY ARBORETUM & BOTANIC GARDEN Peafowl roam the grounds and roost overhead at 127-acre garden. Make your own idyllic route or take the tram tour. Su–F 9 am–5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm); Sa, call for hours. Free third Tuesday of the month. $3–$8, under 5 free. 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222 Map Q22 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD Wax museum with some 115 likenesses of celebrities in music, film, sports and more. Costumes provided for photo ops with figures. Call for hours. $18–$25, $14.40–$20 online, under 4 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 THE MUSIC CENTER The 90-minute Symphonian Music Center Tour includes history, architecture. Also see listing for Walt Disney Concert Hall at the Music Center.

First come, first served. 10 am–2 pm most days. Free. 151 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.4399 Map H16 OCEAN FRONT WALK Boardwalk with street performers, souvenir vendors. Muscle Beach–adjacent. Along beach between Marine Street and Grand Boulevard, Venice Map N9 OLVERA STREET Festive open-air Mexican marketplace with restaurants, shops at historic El Pueblo de Los Angeles. Alameda Street between Main and Los Angeles streets, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17 PACIFIC PARK Amusement park on the Santa Monica Pier with rides including a solar-powered Ferris wheel, plus midway games, food vendors, specialty shops.

M–Tu noon–7 pm; F–Sa 11 am–midnight; Su 11 am –11 pm. Admission free; rides $3–$5, unlimited pass $15.95–$24.95. 380 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 310.260.8744 Map L8 PORTS O’ CALL VILLAGE Fifty stores and restaurants.

Harbor cruises, helicopter tours, boat tours of Port of Los Angeles. 77 Nagoya Way (off Harbor Boulevard), San Pedro Map O15 QUEEN MARY SHIP AND SEAPORT Historic ocean liner—bigger than the Titanic!—permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, dining, art deco lounge.

Daily 10 am–6 pm for self-guided and guided tours. $12.95–$24.95, under 5 free. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.435.3511 Map O16 RIPLEY’S BELIEVE IT OR NOT! MUSEUM Three hundred displays feature curiosities gathered by traveler Robert Ripley in the 1930s. Daily 10 am–midnight. $8.99–$14.99, under 5 free. 6780 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.6335 Map H13 RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Air Force One Pavilion houses the Flying White House. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $6–$12, under 11 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 RUSSIAN FOXTROT SUBMARINE Tour the Scorpion, moored next to historic Queen Mary ocean liner. Daily 10 am–6 pm. $9.95–$10.95, under 5 free. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.432.0424 Map O16

ALESSANDRA MELLO

American Idiot at the Ahmanson Theatre downtown

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Attractions + Museums SANTA MONICA MOUNTAINS NATIONAL RECREATIONAL AREA Hiking, horseback riding, bird-watching on 150,000 acres. National Park Service Visitor Center open daily 9 am–5 pm (holidays exempt). 401 W. Hillcrest Drive, Thousand Oaks, 805.370.2301 Map west of B1 SIX FLAGS MAGIC MOUNTAIN Theme park has 17 coasters; dozens of attractions; rides including world’s tallest, fastest and longest flying coaster, Tatsu. Call for hours. $34.99– $59.99, under 3 free. 26101 Magic Mountain Pkwy., Valencia, 661.255.4111 Map A2 TOURNAMENT HOUSE Tours of Rose Parade headquarters in Wrigley Mansion, Italian Renaissance-style home featuring Centennial Rose Garden and Wrigley Gardens. Th 2 and 3 pm. Free. 391 S. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.4100 Map R19 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Eye-popping dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes boutiques such as Fossil, Guess? and Abercrombie & Fitch, novelty stores and state-of-the-art cinema and IMAX theater. iFLY Hollywood is a simulated sky-diving wind tunnel.

Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD World’s biggest motion picture/TV studio. Rides include Jurassic Park, The Simpsons Ride and Revenge of the Mummy—the Ride. Tram studio tour includes the new King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. VIP Experience is private guided tour through prop warehouse, working movie sets, soundstages. Call for hours. $66–$74, under 3 free. VIP Experience $259. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20 PROFESSIONAL

WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Frank Gehry-designed architectural landmark at the Music Center. Tour options include 45-minute self-guided audio tour narrated by John Lithgow; guided tours at noon and 1 pm; pre-matinee guided tours. Guided tours for 15 or more140-423_GM_WhereLA_Mar12_final.indd 1 by reservation. 10 am–2 pm most days. Free. 151 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.4399 Map H16

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SAN FERNANDO MISSION 1797 mission with museum, archives and gardens. Daily 9 am–4:30 pm. $3–$4, under 7 free. 15151 San Fernando Mission Blvd., Mission Hills, 818.361.0186 Map north of A1 SAN GABRIEL MISSION Mission includes the oldest building (1771) in Southern California. Daily 9 am–4:30 pm. $3–$5, under 6 free. 427 S. Junipero Serra Drive, San Gabriel, 626.457.3048 Map B4 WATTS TOWERS Monumental folk-art sculpture in South Central Los Angeles was built by Simon Rodia alone from 1921 to 1954. The tallest tower is about 100 feet. 1727 E. 107th St., L.A., 213.485.1795 Map C3

Studio Tours NBC STUDIOS Seventy-five-minute walking tour; see sets of The Tonight Show With Jay Leno, Days of Our Lives; wardrobe, makeup, special effects, sound effects. M–F 9 am–3 pm. $5–$8.50, under 5 free. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3538 Map T21 SONY PICTURES STUDIOS Two-hour walking tour of working motion picture studio includes sets of television shows and films including Spider-Man. Reservation, photo ID required. M–F 9:30 am–2:30 pm. $33; under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 THE STUDIOS AT PARAMOUNT Two-hour group tour of the longest-operating and only remaining major studio in Hollywood. Reservation required.

Tours M–F (holidays exempt) at 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm and 2 pm. $45. 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14

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Attractions + Museums UniveRsal stUDiOs HOllywOOD See listing under Attractions. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 waRneR BROs. stUDiOs Two-hour VIP tour of working movie and TV studio includes backlots, enormous soundstages and costume department, memorabilia museum and observation of filming when possible. VIP tours available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. M–F 8:20 am–4 pm. $49, under 8 not admitted. 3400 Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.972.8087 Map U20

Studio Tapings aUDiences UnlimiteD Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, FOX, NBC and CW. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. Satellite TV Ticket Booth, Universal Studios Hollywood, 818.260.0041, Ext. 1. tvtickets.com cBs stUDiO centeR Reserve seats in the studio audience for tapings of prime-time television and game shows. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. 4024 Radford Ave., Studio City, 818.753.3470 Map U18 cBs televisiOn city Reserve seats for tapings of game shows such as The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. 7800 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.575.2458 Map J13 tHe ellen DeGeneRes sHOw Free tickets for taping of comedienne’s daytime talk show. Minimum age 14; minors must show photo ID and be accompanied by a parent.

Advance tickets, go to ellen.warnerbros.com/tickets; dayof tickets, call before noon. Warner Bros. Studios, 3400 Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.954.5929 Map U20 Jimmy kimmel live Free tickets for live tapings of latenight ABC show. Minimum age 18. Phone line open M–F 1–4 pm. El Capitan Entertainment Center, 6838 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 866.546.6984 Map H13 nBc televisiOn Reserve seats for sitcoms and The Jay Leno Show day of show only at NBC Ticket Box. Two tickets per person, first come, first served. Advance tickets except The Tonight Show through Audiences Unlimited.

Minimum age 16. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3537 Map T21 aRamOUnt stUDiOs Tickets to tapings of shows p offered first come, first served five days in advance and via website. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. (Dr. Phil tickets, 323.461.7445, Audience@CBSParamount. com.) 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777, paramount.com Map I14

Museums JEWELRY HOME ACCENTS FASHION BOOKS ACCESSORIES CARDS SHOP AT THE

919 South Grand Ave. LA 90015 • fidmmuseum.org • fidmmuseumshop.org • 213.623.5821

He annenBeRG space fOR pHOtOGRapHy t Ten thousand square feet with digital projection gallery, print exhibit area. Continuing Digital Darkroom. W–Su 11 am–6 pm. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa–Su. Admission free. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.209.4560 Map J11 alifORnia afRican ameRican mUseUm Hisc tory, culture, art. Through March 29 Women: Game Changers, Less Known, Here Celebrated. Continuing Places of Validation, Art & Progression; Justice, Balance and Achievement: African Americans & the California Courts; King in California II. Ongoing Gallery of Discovery. Tu–Sa 10 am–5 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $8. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, 213.744.7432 Map M8 califORnia science centeR Interactive exhibits for budding scientists. New Ecosystems wing. Continuing 1001 Inventions: Discover the Golden Age of Muslim Civilization; Science in Toyland. Ongoing Forty Years of Space Photography; After Life; FADE: The Dark Side of Light. Daily 10 am–5 pm. Permanent exhibition gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Admission to exhibit galleries free. Parking $8. 700 State Drive, Exposition Park, downtown, 323.724.3623 Map K15

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Attractions + Museums FASHION institute of design and merchandising (FIDM) Museum & Galleries on fashion school campus. Continuing 20th Annual Art of Motion Picture Costume Design. Ongoing Selections From the Annette Green Perfume Museum. W–Su 10 am–4 pm. Free. 919 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.624.1200 Map I16

Original Works of Native American Indian Jewelry and Art

Frederick R. Weisman Art Foundation Tour Weisman’s Bel-Air estate, gardens, stunning collection of 20th-century works by Picasso, Rothko, Warhol, others. By appointment only, M–F, 10 am–4 pm. Admission free. 310.277.5321 Map I10 Getty Center Beautiful travertine-clad hilltop facility houses stunning collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts.

Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Through March 11 From Start to Finish: De Wain Valentine’s Gray Column; Lyonel Feininger: Photographs, 1928–1939; Narrative Interventions in Photography. Opening March 27 Renaissance Drawings From Germany and Switzerland, 1470–1600. Continuing The Life of Art: Context, Collecting and Display; In Focus: Los Angeles, 1945–1980; Gothic Grandeur: Manuscript Illumination, 1200–1350. Ongoing New Galleries for Medieval and Renaissance Sculpture and Decorative Arts; New Galleries for Neoclassical, Romantic, and Symbolist Sculpture and Decorative Arts. Tu–F, Su 10 am–5:30 pm; Sa 10 am–9 pm. Free.

Parking $15, free Sa after 5 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map K7 Getty Villa Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Roman and Greek antiquities. Opening March 28 Aphrodite and the Gods of Love. Ongoing Molten Color: Glassmaking in Antiquity; Roman Ephebe From Naples. Th–M 10 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $15. Advance timed tickets required. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.440.7300 Map K7 grammy museum Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes, and Grammy Award history. Through March 25 George Harrison: Living in the Material World. Continuing Trouble In Paradise: Music and Los Angeles, 1945-1975; Michael Jackson.

Taos_WLA0711_v1.indd 1 Daily 10 am–6 pm. $10.95–$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15

Visitors from around the world seek out Taos Indian Trading Co. for unique, quality jewelry, pottery, sculptures, paintings and a variety of other artifacts representing 57 tribes.

Mon-Sat 11am-7pm Sun 12pm-5pm

310.395.3652

403 Santa Monica Blvd.

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Hammer Museum Traveling shows and installations and permanent collection. Continuing Alina Szapocznikow: Sculpture Undone, 1955–1972; Intimate Immensity: The Susan and Larry Marx Collection; Alex Hubbard; Antony; Carlos Bunga. Tu–W, F–Sa 11 am–7 pm, Th until 9 pm, Su until 5 pm. $5–$10. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood, 310.443.7000 Map J10 Hollywood Museum Ten thousand artifacts on four floors: costumes such as Robert Pattinson’s and Taylor Lautner’s in Twilight; sets including Hannibal Lecter’s cell, props, photos, movie posters, scripts; and Max Factor’s makeup rooms, where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Lucille Ball a redhead. In restored Max Factor Building. Continuing And the Winner Is.... W–Su 10 am–5 pm. $12–$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens Stellar art, buildings and grounds, children’s garden. Gallery includes Pinkie and The Blue Boy. Continuing Ancient Chinese Bronze Mirrors From the Lloyd Cotsen Collection; Whistler, Haden and the Gentle Art of Etching. M, W–F noon–4:30 pm; Sa–Su 10:30 am–4:30 pm. $6–$20, under 5 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 Japanese American National MusEum Opening March 10 Folding Paper: The Infinite Possibilities of Origami. Ongoing Common Ground: The Heart of the Community. Tu–W, F–Su 11 am–5 pm; Th noon–8 pm. $5–$9, under 6 free. 369 E. 1st St., downtown, 213.625.0414 Map H17 Los Angeles County Museum of Art Diverse premier collections; Broad Contemporary Art Museum and Resnick Pavilion are latest additions. LACMA

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Shopping West nearby. Opening March 11 Robert Adams: The Place We Live, A Retrospective Selection of Photographs. Through March 30 A Is for Zebra. Continuing Common Places: Printing, Embroidery and the Art of Global Mapping; In Wonderland: The Surrealist Adventures of Women Artists in Mexico and the United States; Metropolis II; Ellsworth Kelly: Prints and Paintings; In Wonderland: The Surrealist Adventures of Women Artists in Mexico and the United States; Rodarte: Fra Angelico Collection; California Design, 1930–1965: “Living in a Modern Way.” M–Tu, Th noon–8 pm, F until 9 pm; Sa–Su 11 am–8 pm. Closed W. $10–$15, under 18 free. LACMA West free. LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd.; LACMA West, 6067 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 MuseuM of ConteMporary art Premier contemporary art venue. Continuing The Total Look: The Creative Collaboration Between Rudi Gernreich, Peggy Moffitt, and William Claxton (PDC); A Tribute to Beatrice and Philip Gersh: Gifts to the Museum of Contemporary Art (GA). Ongoing MOCA Permanent Collection Masterworks 1945–1975 (GA).

M, F 11 am–5 pm; Th 11 am–8 pm; Sa–Su 11 am–6 pm.

Pacific Design Center, Tu–F 11 am–5 pm, Sa–Su until 6 pm. $5–$10, under 12 free. Free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12

Single Stone 607 South Hill Street, Suite 204, Los Angeles, CA 90014, t 213.892.0772 | www.singlestone.com

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MuseuM of JurassiC teChnology Subversive venue blends fact and fiction. Th 2–8 pm; F–Su noon–6 pm. $3–$5 suggested donation. 9341 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.836.6131 Map L11 MuseuM of toleranCe Exhibits examine prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust and humanrights issues. Continuing Para Todos Los Niños: For All the Children; Freedom’s Sisters. M–Th 10 am–5 pm, F until 3 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. $11.50–$15.50, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 natural history MuseuM of los angeles County Thirty-three million objects from dino fossils to fish. See paleontologists preparing fossil specimens at Dino Lab. Age of Mammals is the permanent exhibition. The Dinosaur Hall is new; a highlight is the Tyrannosaurus rex growth series. Daily 9:30 am–5 pm. $2–$9, under 5 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., downtown, 213.763.3466 Map K15 norton siMon MuseuM Stellar collection of Renaissance to 20th-century masterworks and sculpture garden.

Continuing Memling’s Portrait of a Man on Loan From the Frick Collection; Proof: The Rise of Printmaking in Southern California; The Original Print: An Introduction to Printmaking in the Postwar Period. W–M noon–6 pm. $5–$10; students with photo ID, under 18 free. 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840 Map Q19

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page MuseuM at the la Brea tar pits Ice Age L.A. M–F 9:30 am–5 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–5 pm. $2–$7, under 5 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 paley Center for MeDia Exhibits, screenings and radio-listening series; tens of thousands of programs on view. W–Su noon–5 pm. Free. 465 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.786.1000 Map I11 skirBall Cultural Center The American Jewish experience. Continuing Women Hold Up Half the Sky. Ongoing Visions and Values: Jewish Life From Antiquity to America; Noah’s Ark at the Skirball. Tu–F noon–5 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–10, children under 2 free. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

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Shopping Destinations the aMeriCana at BranD Huge downtown Glendale hot spot with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley from the creators of The Grove. Ninety stores and dining options. Boutiques include a Tiffany & Co. concept store, Kate Spade and

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Shopping Kiehl’s; other draws include Barneys CO-OP and Pacific Theatre cinema. Brand Boulevard and Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map southeast of T23 Beverly Center Trend-setting mall near West Hollywood has 160 boutiques (Tiffany & Co., Forever 21, Fendi, Henri Bendel, Prada) and restaurants including the Capital Grille. Anchors include Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. La Cienega and Beverly boulevards, L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12

Q.

where can i find...

Citadel Outlets Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discount duds from BCBG, Banana Republic, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, Commerce, 323.888.1724 Map B4 Del Amo Fashion Center More than 300 stores with Macy’s and MAC, and 18 movie screens. High-tech Lucky Strike Lanes draws a young crowd for hip bowling, and TJ Maxx draws bargain hunters of all ages. 3525 Carson St., Torrance, 310.542.8525 Map D2 Fashion District This downtown neighborhood is a bargain hunter’s paradise. More than 1,000 stores sell to the public at 30%–70% discounts on apparel, accessories, textiles and flowers. Between Main and San Pedro streets; Olympic Boulevard and 7th Street, downtown, 213.488.1153 Map J16

A.

Fred Segal A multitude of international trends since 1968 began in what may be L.A.’s most famous store, an emporium of individually owned boutiques. Café and salon are popular for shoppers and drop-ins. 8100 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.3734; 420 and 500 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.394.9814 Map I13, L8 Glendale Galleria Family-oriented mall with department stores and boutiques including Nordstrom, Crabtree & Evelyn and Vans Colorado Boulevard and Central Avenue, Glendale, 818.240.9481 Map U23 The Grove Popular outdoor center has more than 50 shops, a Barneys CO-OP, Nordstrom and nine restaurants in a setting that suggests a grand old downtown.

Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws.

The Wall Street Journal rates concierge services No. 1 in the nation. Adjacent to Farmers Market. 3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue, L.A., 323.900.8080 Map I13 Hollywood & Highland CENTER Home of the Academy Awards’ Kodak Theatre. Tinseltown-themed retail, dining and entertainment center features several restaurants, cinema, high-tech bowling lanes and stores such as Louis Vuitton and Lucky Brand Jeans. Hollywood Boulevard and Highland Avenue, Hollywood, 323.467.6412 Map H13 Japanese Village Plaza Popular plaza in Little Tokyo features some 40 shops selling Japanese books, art, gifts and sundries. Restaurants are Japanese, though one serves excellent Korean barbecue. Mikawaya sells mochi ice cream. 335 E. 2nd St., downtown Map H17 Jewelry District Retailers offer 50%–70% savings on gems, watches and fine jewelry. At the St. Vincent’s Jewelry Center (645–650 S. Hill St.), you’ll find 500 jewelry merchants. Between Hill Street and Broadway, from 5th to 8th streets, downtown Map I16 malibu country mart Outdoor center tucked away in beach town with upscale boutiques such as Ron Herman, James Perse, Madison; galleries, spas, children’s play area. Restaurants include Tra di Noi and Nobu Malibu. 3835 and 3900 Cross Creek Road, Malibu Map northwest of K7 malibu lumber yard Small collection of upscale retailers adjacent to Malibu Country Mart, including Alice + Olivia, Maxfield, Crumbs Bake Shop and La Perla. 3939 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7395 Map northwest of K7

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Shopping MANHATTAN VILLAGE This mall by the shore features a Diane’s Beachwear as well as a Macy’s and Macy’s Men’s and Home. Concierges assist with taxies, strollers and even lottery tickets. 3200 Sepulveda Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.5555 Map L13

Where sea level feels like the top of the world.

Whether the highlight of a vacation or a close-to-home birthday party, anniversary dinner or special celebration, a Hornblower dining cruise is always memorable.

Weekend Brunch Cruises

Scan for discounts

Starlight Dinner Cruises

METLOX Pottery factory converted to upscale shopping destination; Design Within Reach, Trilogy Spa and restaurants including Petros Greek Cuisine. Between Manhattan Beach Boulevard, Valley and Morningside drives and Manhattan Beach Civic Center Map L13 ONE COLORADO Outdoor plaza with boutiques such as Gold Bug, Kate Spade, Juicy Couture, Papyrus, Armani A/X and deluxe movie theater Gold Class Cinemas. Refuel after retail therapy at Italian restaurant Il Fornaio or Sushi Roku. 41 Hugus Alley, Old Pasadena, 626.564.1066 Map Q19 ONTARIO MILLS OUTLETS California’s largest outlet shopping destination. Among 200 stores are Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, DKNY, Saks Fifth Avenue Off Fifth and Nordstrom Rack. Thirty-screen cineplex. 1 Mills Circle, Ontario, 909.484.8300

Friday Night Blues Dinner Cruise

PASEO COLORADO Outdoor shopping promenade near Old Town features Jigsaw London, Tommy Bahama and big bargains on designer clothes at Loehmann’s.

Los Robles Avenue and Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, 626.795.8891 Map Q20

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PROMENADE ON THE PENINSULA Trilevel open-air shopping center in peaceful Palos Verdes boasts Equinox Fitness Club & Spa, J. Crew, White House/Black Market, Restoration Hardware and more. Cinema, ice-skating rink and casual dining. 500 Deep Valley Drive, Palos Verdes, 310.541.0688 Map O13

Private Charters

Cruising out of Marina del Rey & Newport Beach

SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at one end of Third Street Promenade, two blocks from Santa Monica State Beach. Anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. Fifty boutiques including 7 for All Mankind, CB2 and Barneys CO-OP. Rooftop Dining Deck with food court, six restaurants and gourmet market. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SANTEE ALLEY Open-air pedestrian bazaar with heaps of hugely discounted clothes, jewelry and toys. Cash only. Between Olympic Boulevard and 12th Street, Maple and Santee streets, downtown Map I16 7 + FIG Center features 22 stores and a selection of dining options, including Arnie Morton’s Steakhouse.

Certified gourmet farmers market every Thursday.

735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.955.7150 Map I16 SOUTH BAY GALLERIA Nordstrom anchors more than 140 stores; 16-screen AMC movie theater. Swarovski boutique and Yogurberry are new. 1815 Hawthorne Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.371.7546 Map L14 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center boasts nearly 300 boutiques, 30 restaurants and several spas. Stores include Chanel, Gucci, Valentino, Chloé, Jimmy Choo, Christian Dior. Concierge at five locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map 6E SUNSET PLAZA Upscale row of boutiques and sidewalk cafes is L.A.’s Euro hang. Calypso, Catherine Malandrino, Chez Bop, Ole Henriksen spa and H. Lorenzo stores. 8600– 8700 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood Map H12

Depar tures from:

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THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes Zara, French Connection, Restoration Hardware, kiosks and a wide array of very entertaining street performers. 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica Map L8 TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features Versace, James Elliot and other high-end boutiques, plus restaurants including 208 Rodeo. At Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11

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Spas westfielD centURy city Sleek open-air mall with more than 175 stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Tiffany & Co. Luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen, beautifully designed food court atrium and terrace. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898 Map J11

SEE 10,000 REAL SHOWBIZ TREASURES

westfielD fasHiOn sQUaRe Sephora, Betsey Johnson and Bloomingdale’s make this the go-to destination for those at the eastern end of the San Fernando Valley’s Ventura Boulevard. 14006 Riverside Drive, Sherman Oaks, 818.783.0550 Map west of T18

The Most Extensive Collection of Hollywood Memorabilia In the World!

westfielD santa anita Nordstrom and Macy’s, stores including Nine West, Brookstone and H&M, entertainment venues including AMC Theatres and a Jump ’n Jammin Children’s Center. 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.445.6255 Map R23 westfielD tOpanGa Upscale retail center boasts Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom and more. 6600 Topanga Canyon Blvd., 818.594.8740 Map west of A1 westsiDe paviliOn Center south of Westwood Village is anchored by Nordstrom and Macy’s.

Landmark theater is the country’s most spectacular indie cineplex. 10800 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.474.6255 Map J11

Spas anastasia BeveRly Hills Celebrity brow guru Anastasia Soare’s beauty haven offers facials plus brow shaping and other waxing services. West L.A. spa has full-service hair and nail salon. 438 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.273.3155; 11933 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 310.479.8300 Map J11, K9

Right on the Santa Monica aiRpoRt! Discover and explore the history of Aviation in Southern California. See great exhibits, artifacts, and more than two dozen aircraft that chronicle the history of aviation in Southern California. Located at the Santa Monica Airport former home to the famous Douglas Aircraft Company.

Open Friday through Sunday 10am-5pm $10 adults, $8 seniors, $6 children 12 and under, 5 and under free!

3100 Airport Ave., SAntA MonicA 90405 310 398-2500 MUSeUMoFFLYinG.coM

Bliss spa Hotel spa goes hip. Full-service spa also includes nail stations, expansive boutique with Bliss products. Sauna, steam showers. W Westwood, 930 Hilgard Ave., Westwood, 310.443.8228; W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 877.862.5477 Map J10, H14

SEE YOUR FAVORITE STARS + 100 YEARS OF HOLLYWOOD! See Marilyn Monroe, Elvis, I Love Lucy, Superman, Star Trek, Twilight, Planet of the Apes, Jaws, Glee, High School Musical, Sopranos, Rocky, star car collections, Leonardo DiCaprio, George Clooney, Jennifer Lopez, Brad Pitt & Angelina Jolie & more. Vintage photo gallery.

Hannibal Lector’s jail cell movie set from Silence of the Lambs. Max Factor’s world-famous makeup rooms where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde & Lucille Ball a redhead.

ciel spa Heavenly, all-white retreat at the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills does face, body, nail and hair treatments. Access to fitness center and Altitude pool deck.

Steam room, showers. 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5560 Map I12

Visit Hollywood’s largest collection of costumes, props, posters & photos!

kate sOmeRville skin HealtH eXpeRts Hollywood’s favorite facials are offered in a feminine salon on superexclusive Melrose Place. 8428 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 323.655.7546 Map I12

NEW EXHIBIT: “AND THE WINNER IS...”

See props and costumes from all-time favorites + this year’s nominated films!

le pOsH salOn/spa/lOUnGe Sleek spa looks more like a Hollywood lounge than a Zen retreat.

Face and body treatments in the spa; hair, nail and makeup services in the salon. 7551 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.851.5558 Map H12

Your Source for quality seating

Wed. - Sun. 10am - 5pm Admission: $15 Adults, $12 Seniors & Kids under 12

Ole HenRiksen face/BODy spa Full-service spa to the stars specializes in face and body care and also offers nail and makeup services. Co-ed steam room. Sunset Plaza, 8622 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 310.854.7700 Map H12 spa lUce Spa in the heart of Hollywood boasts access to rooftop pool. Facial and body therapies plus nail, makeup and hair services. Steam room. Renaissance Hollywood Hotel & Spa, 1755 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.491.1376 Map H13 spa mOntaGe The last word in luxury spas. Also includes Kim Vo Salon, Gornik & Drucker barber shop and fitness facilities. Sauna, steam room, whirlpools, showers. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7800 Map J11 tikkUn spa Traditional Korean spa with contemporary style. Three co-ed sweat rooms plus sauna, whirlpool, showers. 1460 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.319.1111 Map L8

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Nightlife

HOLLYWOOD Nightlife

46% 4 Walk of Fame attractions

tHe aBBey Fixture of the WeHo gay scene serves flavored martinis galore. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 aDcB Cheery orange-and-white décor at the Mondrian hotel. 8440 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8999 Map H12 kBaR Gay bar is a “neighborhood oasis” with a Moroccan murals, mellow music. 4356 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.665.6810 Map W23 aliBi ROOm Modern neighborhood bar; serves food from Kogi, a trendy Korean barbecue truck. 12236 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.390.9300 Map M10 anGel city BRewinG New. Award-winning microbrewery in a bare-bones, industrial space.

216 S. Alameda St., downtown, 213.622.1261 Map I17

Starline Movie Stars’ Homes Tour

tHe assOciatiOn The gang from Bar Copa and the Room turn out another nightlife mainstay. 110 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.627.7385 Map I16 BaR cHlOe Parisian-inspired lounge nearby Third Street Promenade. 1449 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.899.6999 Map L8 BaR maRmOnt Dreamy bar next door to historic Chateau Marmont. 8171 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.0575 Map H12

Madame Tussauds Hollywood

BaR nOiR Kelly Wearstler-designed lounge in boutique hotel. Maison 140, 140 S. Lasky Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.281.4000 Map J11 asement taveRn Underground speakeasy in a B Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.4956 Map M8 BeaUty BaR Fun, retro-style bar. Happy hour special is martini, manicure and henna tattoo and manicure. 1638 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.7676 Map H13 iGfOOt lODGe Kitschy log-cabin-themed waterB ing hole. 3172 Los Feliz Blvd., Atwater Village, 323.662.9227; Bigfoot West, 10939 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.287.2200 Map northeast of V23, M11

Red Line Tours’ Hollywood Behind-the-Scenes

tHe BRiG Former dive bar has new look. DJ on weekends. 1515 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.7537 Map N9 BROaDway BaR 1940s glam. Huge circular bar downstairs; lounge upstairs. 830 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.614.9909 Map I16

Your choice of Kodak Theatre Guided Tour OR The Hollywood Museum

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Pricing and programs are subject to change.

caÑa RUm BaR at tHe DOHeny Premium rum bar with some 140 small-batch rums and cigar pairings. 714 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.745.7090 Map I16 atalina BaR & GRill Top club for jazz c and jazz fusion. 6725 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.2210 Map H13 city taveRn Brews, California wines and cocktails.

Booths outfitted with computerized craft brew taps; patrons pour their own. 9739 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.838.9739 Map L11 Opa D’ORO Design-your-own cocktails from a list c of farmers-market ingredients. 217 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.576.3030 Map L8 cORkBaR Wine bar focuses on California wineries; 40-something wines by the glass. 403 W. 12th St., downtown, 213.746.0050 Map J15

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Nightlife CROWN BAR The team behind Winston’s and tiny Dime opens lounge with Old (West) Hollywood décor. 7321 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.882.6774 Map H13

EAGLE ROCK BREWERY Family-run microbrewery with tasting room. 3056 Roswell St., Eagle Rock, 323.257.7866 Map northeast of W23 THE ECHO Hip Echo Park dance club books local and indie bands. DJs, dancing; Echoplex, with separate entrance, is downstairs. 1822 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.413.8200; Echoplex, 1154 Glendale Blvd., Echo Park, 213.413.8200 Map G16 THE EDISON Posh renovated power plant. Get there early. Dress code. 108 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.613.0000 Map H17

1:07 PM

BEFORE YOU FLY, SURF.

CROCKER CLUB Nightclub inside an old bank; back room is in the vault. 453 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.239.9099 Map I17

DRAI’S Vegas nightlife king Victor Drai’s flashy rooftop spot. W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.962.1111 Map H14

5/12/08

www.WhereLA.com

Turn Heads.

Hug Curves.

Discover timely information on current

For Reservations, call 1 866 4 LUX CAR and reference customer number 32D8178.

events, restaurants, sights and attractions on the WHERE Magazine website.

1886 Artisan cocktails inside retro restaurant the Raymond. 1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.441.3136 Map S19 EL CARMEN Nearly 400 tequilas, Mexican wrestler décor. 8138 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.852.1552 Map I12

where

EL CID Flamenco, burlesque, live music, comedy, tapas and white sangria. 4212 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.668.0318 Map southeast of W23

BEC A US E YOU’ V E A RR I V ED

EL REY THEATRE Hot indie bands play art deco theater on Miracle Mile. 5515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.936.6400 Map J13 GOLDEN GOPHER Chandeliers and Pac-Man tables.

Outdoor and indoor hangout options. 417 W. 8th St., downtown, 213.614.8001 Map I16 HARVARD & STONE Fine cocktails in a grittychic industrial space. 5221 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.466.6063 Map W22 HARVELLE’S Burlesque and music in dark digs.

1432 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.395.1676 Map L8 HEMINGWAY’S Sumptuous library-styled lounge. 6356 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.0040 Map H14 HIGH Boutique hotel’s rooftop bar with 360-degree views of Venice Beach. Hotel Erwin, 1697 Pacific Ave., Venice, 310.452.1111 Map N9 HOTEL CAFE Tiny gem offers live rock music.

16231/2 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.2040 Map I14

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM King in California II through March 4

HOUSE OF BLUES Name bands in faux bayou setting. 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.5100 Map H12

Women: Game Changers, Less Known, Here Celebrated through March 29

HYDE SBE lounge that spawned offshoots around the country. Reservation recommended. 8029 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.4933; Hyde at Staples Center, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7326; Hyde Beach at Gladstone’s, 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades 310.454.3474 Map I14, I15, northwest of K7

Justice, Balance and Achievement: African Americans and the California Courts through May 20

JAMES’ BEACH Pickup scene, super food. 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice, 310.823.5396 Map N9 JONES Dimly lit hipster magnet serves up Italian food and stiff drinks. 7205 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.850.1726 Map L13

Places of Validation, Art & Progression through April 1

Gallery of Discovery ongoing From Servitude to Independence: The Successes of Our Matriarchs Target Sundays at CAAM March 4

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM 600 State Drive Exposition Park LA 90037 For more information go to www.caamuseum.org or call 213-744-7432.

Parking at 39th and Figueroa Streets and is $10 per vehicle.

FREE ADMISSION! Photo of CAAM gallery by Gene Ogami

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Nightlife

Rose Tree Cottage A Regal English Afternoon Tea by reservation

Key Club Industrial-cool music venue on the strip. 9039 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.5800 Map H12 la descarga Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservation recommended. 1159 N. Western Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.1324 Map east of H14

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LARGO AT THE CORONET Comedy and music. Reservation needed for shows. 366 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.855.0350 Map I12 las perlas Festive tequila and mezcal bar with sophisticated cocktails. 107 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.988.8355 Map I16 Laugh Factory Famed comedy nightclub. 8001 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.1336; 151 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.2844 Map H12 LIBRARY BAR Classy nook with book theme is after-work go-to. 630 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.614.0053 Map H16 Mohawk bend New. Hipster bar in the shell of an art deco theater with more than 70 craft beers on tap. 2141 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.483.2337 Map south of W23 LOLA’S Jumbo specialty martinis on leopard-print couches. 945 N. Fairfax Ave., West Hollywood, 213.736.5652 Map H13 Lucky Strike Lanes High-tech bowling lounges. Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7776; Del Amo Fashion Center, 3525 Carson St., Torrance, 310.802.7020; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 877.893.8259 Map H14, D3, I15 The Otheroom Microbrews and wines by the glass,

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New York City-style. 1201 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 7/27/11 1:18 PM 310.396.6230 Map N9

pagoda bar Poolside lounge at palatial restaurant with panoramic views of Hollywood. Yamashiro Restaurant, 1999 Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.5125 Map H13 playhouse hollywood Features entertainment from burlesque dancers and acrobats. 6506 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.656.4800 Map H14 pourtal Self service, pay-by-the-pour Enomatic dispensers; great bar bites, cheeses. 104 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7693 Map L8 THE roger room Hidden speakeasy with creative cocktails. 370 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.854.1300 Map J12 THE ROXY Historic rock ‘n’ roll venue on the strip. 9009 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.2222 Map H12 rush street Culver City’s full of wine bars, but this huge Chicago-style hangout has all the libations. 9546 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.837.9546 Map L11 SEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-incheek hunt-club décor. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16 Skybar Chic open-air roost with a view at the Mondrian hotel. Reservations required. 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.6025 Map H12 The Spare Room Lounge with bowling lanes and fab cocktails. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.8882 Map H13 The Standard DOWNTOWN Rooftop bar with panoramic city views, pool, vibrating red waterbeds. 550 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.892.8080 Map I16

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13604 Ventura Blvd. Sherman Oaks 818 990 6128 AbundancePlusSizes.com

THE STANDARD HOLLYWOOD Lounge with swinging seats, glowing purple walls. 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.9090 Map H12 Stone Rose Lounge Rose-hued lounge at Sofitel hotel. 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.278.5444 Map I12 thirsty crow Whisky and bourbon bar. 2939 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.61.6007 Map south of W23 Tropicana Bar Poolside hot spot at the Roosevelt Hotel. 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 Map H13 TROUBADOUR Historic spot books up-and-coming alt-rock and local bands. 9081 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.6168 Map H12 vampire lounge & Tasting ROom Gothic wine bar with Vampire Vineyards wines, small plates and cheeses. 9865 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.826.7473 Map I11 the varnish The mixing of Prohibition-era cocktails is an art form at this bar in the back of Cole’s diner. 118 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.622.9999 Map I17 VILLA Small, exclusive lounge with “celebrity karaoke” on Mondays. Reservation needed. 8623 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.289.8623 Map I12 villains tavern Stylish haunt in the Arts District.

Indoor bar for cocktails, outdoor bar for craft beers and flavor-paired shots. 1356 Palmetto St., downtown, 213.613.0766 Map east of I17 Viper Room Tiny, nitty-gritty live-music venue. 8852 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.1880 Map H12 the writers room The refurbished “back room” of Musso & Frank does artful mixology. 6685 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.491.4148 Map H16 WurstKÜCHE Exotic sausage and beer hall is a popular, boisterous neighborhood hangout. Try the duckbacon-jalapeño frank. 800 E. Third St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice. 213.687.4444 Map I17, M9 X BAR Indoor-outdoor playpen for CAA and ICM talent agents. Hyatt Regency Century Plaza, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.228.1234 Map J11

Tours + Transport another side OF LOS ANGELES tours A wide variety of focused tours, organized by interest—i.e. whale watching, shopping, celebrity homes—or mode of transportation (kayak, Segway, horseback, helicopter). 1102 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 800.311.8987 Amtrak Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations.

Nationwide connections, multiple-day rail passes.

Stations in Burbank, downtown (Union Station), Long Beach, Pasadena and Van Nuys. The Coast Starlight connects L.A. to Ventura, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Portland and Seattle. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com

The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up.

From comfortable to casual or dressy— classic to funky or fun: Abundance has it all!

bikes AND hikes L.A. Biking and/or hiking tours of highlights from Santa Monica to Hollywood in customizable or preset itineraries. Exclusive Bike & Hike Sail

S TA I N E D G L A S S & G A L L E RY “Largest Selection of Artglass in Los Angeles”

1426 4th St • Santa Monica, CA 90401 310.451.9390 • www.adammsgallery.com

NOW YOU CAN ORDER A DOCTOR LIKE ROOM SERVICE. When visitors get sick in LA, you’ve got two choices. A long wait in the emergency room or a great doctor that comes to you.

Beverly Hills Rent-a-Car Luxury and exotic rentals with pickup service. Hollywood, 323.822.0969; Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; LAX, 310.670.2020; Marina del Rey, 310.862.1900 Beverly Hills Trolley Tour Forty-minute tour of landmarks, attractions; departs from Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way. Call for schedule. $5–$10. 310.285.2438 Map J11

Stephen Main, Forrest series bowl

Tours +Transport

Our board certified doctors are available 24/7. Call us at 1-888-777-8890 or visit us online.

YOUR PRIVATE RIDE

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Tours +Transport Adventure includes all three activities. Half- or full-day bike rentals. 8743 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.796.8555 Map I12 CityPass Hollywood CityPass offers discounted admission to Starline Movie Stars Homes Tour, Behindthe-Scenes Hollywood walking tour with Red Line Tours, Hollywood Wax Museum and either the Kodak Theatre tour or Hollywood Museum access. $59, ages 3–11 $39, under 3 free. Purchase pass at attractions.

Southern California CityPass ($259) includes admission to theme parks from L.A. to San Diego. 888.330.5008, citypass.com execucar Premier luxury sedan service. Sedan and SUV service, flat rates, special group services, and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 800.410.4444, execucar.com melting pot FOOD tours Tasting tours of foodie destinations such as Farmers Market or a selection of restaurants. Private tours available. Reservation required. $49–$59. 424.247.9666; tickets, 800.979.3370, meltingpottours.com METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach.

Underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to Pasadena; Blue Line from Union Station to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach. $6 day pass. 800.266.6883, metro.net Metrolink Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com Starline Tours Movie Stars’ Home Tour, Trolley Fun Tour, Grand Tour of L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131 Map H13 Supershuttle Shared-ride shuttle service to and from airport. Group rates, charters, and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 800.258.3826, supershuttle.com Take My Mother Please Enthusiastic, “curly headed” Arkansas native packs up to five of your visiting relatives (or other VIPs) in a new hybrid SUV for customized tour of “gloriously unusual” sights. 323.737.2200 tmz hollywood tour Bus tour with state-of-theart audio/video system explores celebrity haunts and sites of famous scandals. TMZ Guides are at the ready to interview celebrities and send footage back to the newsroom. $53–$63. Starline Tours, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 855.486.9868 tourific escapes Husband-and-wife team offer sightseeing and food tours such as Hollywood Sites and Bites and Chocolate Indulgence. Prices vary.

424.248.8687, tourificescapes.com Urban Shopping Adventures Group tours of Melrose Heights, downtown Fashion District.

Transportation, shopping tips, maps, goody bags. $36–$54. 213.683.9715 Map I1

where?

Log on anywhere.

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GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s second-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and five rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes.

Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at metro.net or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries.

Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.

Fares

Metro’s base fare is $1.50. Pay each time you board a Metro bus (drivers don’t carry change, so you’ll need exact fare) or at a self-service ticket vending machine when entering Metro Rail stations.

For complete information, check metro.net.

Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult.

Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train.

Note: Metro has installed turnstiles at many Metro Rail stations; others simply operate on the honor system. However, fare inspectors randomly check passengers for valid tickets or passes. You may never be checked, but if you are and you don’t have proof of valid fare, the inspector may issue a citation and you may be fined.

Hours

Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at metro.net regarding your return trip.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • Grauman’s Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) • Kodak Theatre Universal City • Gibson Amphitheater • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood North Hollywood • El Portal Center for the Arts • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)

METRO BLUE LINE

Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street • Watts Towers Transit Mall • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary

METRO GOLD LINE

Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake Avenue • Pasadena Playhouse SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 111

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30 things we love Los Angeles

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Macarons from The Larder at Tavern in Brentwood.

310.248.3779

Hot rods at Petersen Automotive Museum in the Miracle Mile District. 323.930.2277

The artful Caesar salad at Waterloo & City in Culver City. p. 70

Pet-shop-for-a-cause L.A. Love & Leashes at Westside Pavilion. p. 100

The new G-Star Raw in Beverly Hills. (Denim on Rodeo Drive!) 310.275.5098

Walking the grounds at the Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine in Pacific Palisades.

310.454.4114

Expert brow shaping at Anastasia Beverly Hills in West L.A. p. 100

Cocktails at the new Revolver in West Hollywood.

310.694.0430

The strappiest of stilettos at Stuart Weitzman in Beverly Hills. 310.860.9600

Gallery-hopping on the Downtown Art Walk.

213.784.2598

The martinis at Firenze Osteria in Toluca Lake.

818.760.7081

A day trip to Santa Catalina Island on the Catalina Express. p. 92

Punchy handbags from Tod’s in Beverly Hills. 310.285.0591

Grilled Cheese Nights on Thursdays at Campanile. p. 74

Hiking the “loop” at Temescal Gateway Park. p. 34

Taking in a flick at film premiere central, old-school Village Theatre, in Westwood. p. 30

where in the world

Creative flatbreads at Artisan House downtown.

213.622.6333 The Hop-On, Hop-Off Double Decker City Tour from Starline Tours. p. 105

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

The elegant whirlpool and piping-hot steam room at Spa Montage in Beverly Hills.

310.860.7840 Sipping at the outdoor tasting “room” at Malibu Wines.

818.865.0605 The genius electronic parking system at Santa Monica Place shopping center. p. 99 The new Ocean Science Center at Aquarium of the Pacific in Long Beach. p. 92 Visiting the art galleries in downtown Culver City. p. 30

30 The stunning modern-art collection at the Frederick R. Weisman Art Foundation in BelAir. 310.277.5321 The Youth As We Know It Night Facial at Bliss Hollywood.

877.862.5477 Bellying up to the ballet bar for a workout at Cardio Barre Beverly Hills. 424.777.0032 Rooting on the Lakers and Clippers at the Staples Center. p. 91 Renting beach cruisers from Perry’s in Venice Beach.

310.939.0000 Fresh cocktails such as the Uva Bella from Mercato di Vetro in West Hollywood.

310.859.8369 Togs for tots from Pearls & Popcorn at Bloomingdale’s in Westfield Century City. p. 100

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

1, ROB STARK PHOTOGRAPHY; 11, DAVID KHINDA; 17, MICHAEL PRINCE

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