Where Los Angeles, October 2011 by California Media Group

02 PM

Los Angeles

OCTOBER 2011 WHERELA.COM

Celebrating 75 years of Where

CHATTING WITH THE “BEER CHICK”

GETTING

CRAFTY TA P I N T O T H E H O T T E S T

15 FAB NEW BOUTIQUES GIULIANA AND BILL RANCIC’S L.A. LOVE FONUTS, THE STRAND HOUSE AND MORE TRENDY EATS

SPOTS FOR CRAFT BEER

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Il Cuore della Terra Vuole Sempre Fiorire. 2011

SANCHEZ, Angel Ramiro

The Florence Academy of Art Alumni E x hibition

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Paintings and Sculpture Daniel Graves Hege elisabetH HauGen Cornelia m aria Hernes Justin Hess m aureen Hyde

Per JoHnny Kristiansen Per olav olsen Costanza PaPĂ sogli tacca aliCia niCole Ponzio angel ramiro sancHez

On Exhibition

Complete Exhibition Online:

www.galeriemichael.com

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G A L E R I E

September, October, 2011

M I C H A E L

2 2 4 N o r t h R o d e o D r i v e , V i a R o d e o , B e v e r l y H i l l s , C A 9 0 210

Te l : 310. 273.3377

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CRAFT BEER’S HERE OCTOBER

where Los Angeles 10.11 the guide 68 DINING Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

94 ENTERTAINMENT Special events, performing arts and sports

94 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Sights, parks, studio tours and exhibitions

100 SHOPPING The best in retail destinations

101 NIGHTLIFE Hottest clubs, lounges and bars

104 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around

107 MAPS Navigate the county

whereabouts

where now

features

10 Dining Posh by the pier at the Strand House Fonuts reinvents the doughnut Taberna Mexicana’s comida deliciosa

18 Getting Crafty The demand for craft beer in L.A. is bubbling over, and something exciting is brewing at these 13 hot spots.

12 Nightlife The “Beer Chick” spouts off

24 Best of the Boutiques What’s in store at L.A.’s hottest shops? Superedgy jewelry, the softest tees, artisan foods, handmade knits and more.

14 Shopping Lanvin at the beach Alice + Olivia’s shoe line kicks off

64 Destination: Dining Not all of the great restaurants are in Beverly Hills. Explore the culinary treasures of an unfamiliar neighborhood.

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

ALSO INSIDE 6 9 16 112

A NOTE FROM THE EDITOR HOT DATES Pacific Standard Time Q+A Giuliana and Bill Rancic 75 THINGS WE LOVE

ON THE COVER Beer and sausage from Angel City Brewing downtown. Photo by Gina Sabatella.

CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

wheretraveler.com Get the city buzz from Where editors worldwide online and on your smartphone.

RICK POON PHOTOGRAPHY

Beer taps at 1321 in Torrance

32 36 40 44 48 52 58 62

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Autumn is Awesome at The Grove This month, Gap styled our guests in fabulous fall fashions and accessories. Come shop the latest autumn collections and enjoy the vibrant colors of the season at The Grove. See more photos at ilovethegrovela.com and tell us why you love The Grove.

of Nordstrom.

of Barnes & Nob

of Gap.

of Michael Stars.

le.

Spend $250 and receive

FREE PARKING

thegrovela.com

. . 21gie er olo of evrop Forth of An

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The Grove

@TheGroveLA

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where m ag a z ine

On the Web: WhereLA.com

publisher Jeff Levy EDITOR IN CHIEF Benjamin Epstein ART DIRECTOR Bree Berri EDITOR

Katie McCarthy

ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Nicole Bordges MARKETING DIRECTOR Audrey Nimura ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR PRODUCTION ARTIST

Heidi Schwindt

Ryan Furuya

CONTRIBUTING ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano

contributing WRITERS

Sarah Rose Attman, Leah Bigelow, Suzanne Ennis, E.C. Gladstone, Roger Grody contributing photographers

Amy K. Fellows, Sarah Hadley, Bjarne G. Jensen, Monica Nouwens, Gina Sabatella, Edwin Santiago, Ashok Sinha, Christopher Ian Smith, Ian White ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Sara Kemp, Mali Mochow, Laura Napolitano, Heather Howard, Joanna McLean, Scott O’Hanlon, Laura Renner senior circulation & SPECIAL EVENTS MANAGER

Christine Noriega

PRODUCTION MANAGER Dawn Kiko Cheng web manager Christina Xenos administration

Jordan Fraser, Leanne Killian, Beth Moline Vice President of National Sales Rick Mollineaux 202.463.4550 WEST COAST NATIONAL SALES Tiffany Reinhold 714.813.6600 Director of national digital sales Bridget Cody 706.821.6663 honorary president

Ted Levy

where Los Angeles

3679 Motor Ave., Suite 300 Los Angeles, California 90034 Phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 EMAIL Advertising Nicole.Bordges@WhereLA.com Business JLevy@WhereLA.com Editorial Katie.McCarthy@WhereLA.com Art Art@WhereLA.com Production Ads@WhereLA.com Website Christina.Xenos@WhereLA.com Circulation Christine.Noriega@WhereLA.com Plan for your next visit to Los Angeles. Subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36. Contact: Christine Noriega. Phone: 310.280.2880 Email: Christine.Noriega@WhereLA.com © 2011 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. Printed in the United States Circulation audited by Audit Bureau of Circulations

where Los Angeles magazine is pleased to be a member of: Greater Los Angeles Convention and Visitors Bureau, Santa Monica Area Chamber of Commerce, California Restaurant Association, CalTIA, Beverly Hills Chamber of Commerce, Los Angeles Concierge Association.

a maggie award-winning publication Best consumer Visitor’s Guide

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Welcome

A note from the editor

AMERICAN FOOTWEAR

8493 Sunset Blvd (at La Cienega) West Hollywood, CA 323.650.0475 www.bootstaronline.com 6 WHERELA.COM

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LaGardo Tackett, Architectural Pottery, circa 1955, lent by the Lawrence Family in honor of Max and Rita Lawrence, photo © Museum Associates/LACMA, by Bill Stern; Charles and Ray Eames, Molded Plywood Division, Evans Products Company, DCW (dining chair wood), (silhouette), 1946–49, LACMA, Decorative Arts and Design Council Fund

CLASSIC

“I saw you making the bitter-beer face,” he says. I did make the bitter-beer face. That’s because I drink like a girl, and even the bartender at the Blue Boar in Hollywood can tell. I loathe the things known as “girl drinks”—flavored vodkas, wine spritzers and all of the unsophisticated, syrup-y sweet beverages marketed toward the ladies. And I want to be a real beer drinker; not a lady, but a woman who orders a mug of something dark and thick with a strange name. But at the end of day, I order a peach Lindemans lambic with my Father’s Office burger, and I love every sip of it. Thankfully, Christina Perozzi and Hallie Beaune, aka the Beer Chicks, don’t judge me; in their book The Naked Pint: An Unadulterated Guide to Craft Beer, they approve of fruit-flavored lambics, writing that they are “reminiscent of Champagne.” Immediately I feel validated. Classy, even. But then I read on: “You ladies who think you know beer and hate it, don’t quit,” they write. Ladies? Nooooo! I immediately drive to Eagle Rock Brewery to rid myself of my girly drinking tendencies forever. I order the Brasserie Dupont Forêt Blanche. There’s no mention of raspberry or orange blossom notes to lure me in; as far as I can tell, this is a real beer. A bartender with the appearance of an ex-Hells Angels member raises his eyebrows skeptically. “That comes in a pretty big bottle,” he says, using his fingers to indicate something the size of a large infant. I begin to worry. He brandishes the bottle and I look at the label. It’s decorated with flowers, a leaping rabbit and a prancing unicorn. “It looks like it’s made for me,” I say. This issue celebrating L.A.’s white-hot craft beer scene was overdue. For our interview with Perozzi, turn to page 12; learn about 13 of the best microbrew destinations in L.A. County in Getting Crafty (p. 18). —KATIE McCARTHY

EDWIN SANTIAGO

BEER ME!

October 1, 2011–March 25, 2012

The exhibition was organized by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and funded through a lead grant from

Corporate sponsorship was provided by Additional funding was provided by the Henry Luce Foundation, Debbie and Mark Attanasio, Martha and Bruce Karsh, and LACMA’s Decorative Arts and Design Council. In-kind support provided by DuPont™ Corian®.

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LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART |LACMA.ORG 5905 WILSHIRE BLVD (AT FAIRFAX AVE)

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Elite Traveler in Downtown Santa Monica Your guide to planning your trip to Downtown Santa Monica, Third Street Promenade and Santa Monica Place. Enjoy the best in world-class shopping, dining, pampering and activities or find your own way as you explore the area and all it has to offer.

8:30 a.m. Breakfast

2:00 p.m. Tikkun Holistic Spa

Casual elegance in the California tradition is the hallmark of the dining experience at the Fairmont Miramar Hotel and breakfast at FIG is no exception. Try their Santa Monica Breakfast ($19) and drink in some Santa Monica sunshine whilst sitting in their beautiful courtyard patio.

For Him: Gentleman’s Hot Towel Skin Treatment ($95) deep cleanses, exfoliates and hydrates and is followed by a soothing massage designed to decongest pores, refine skin tone and restore skin pH balance. For Her: Tikkun Signature Korean Body Scrub and Oil Massage ($160) begins with a traditional Korean full body exfoliation (using scrub mitts) and detoxifying body polish. Hair is gently shampooed then deep conditioned using Derm Organic Argan Oil and is followed by a mini-facial and fresh cucumber mask. The treatment wraps with a relaxing aromatherapy oil massage and soothing warm milk rinse.

101 Wilshire Boulevard | fairmont.com/santamonica

9:30 a.m. Power Workout Enjoy a Private Yoga Lesson from the comfort of your hotel room. Prices start at $150 per hour. Send a request to info@yogisanonymous.com or call 310.451.9644 to schedule.

10:30 a.m. – 12:30 p.m. Luxury Shopping Santa Monica Place Home to specialty designer clothing and accessory stores: Fluxus — for elegant knits with a ‘rock’ aesthetic, Ted Baker — where the focus is on quality and attention to detail, Louis Vuitton — a tradition of excellence and refinement in leather goods, Barney’s Co-Op — delivers the essentials in fashion for both men and women. In addition, experience unique retail concepts at both Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom.

1460 4th Street | tikkunspa.com

5:00 p.m. Wine on the Rooftops Stop back by the Dining Deck at Santa Monica Place for a sampling of Syrah or Pinot Grigio at Sonoma Wine Garden. Relax and enjoy the view overlooking the Pacific Ocean.

315 Colorado Avenue, Level 3 Dining Deck sonomawinegarden.com

7:30 p.m. Dinner

315 Colorado Avenue | santamonicaplace.com

No better place to dine than one of Santa Monica’s most popular restaurants. JiRaffe chef-impresario Raphael Lunetta offers simply elegant “swoon worthy” food. Try the Roasted Jidori Chicken and autumn white corn ($28) or the delicious Pepper Crusted Hawaiian Ahi Tuna with green tea soba noodles ($32).

Fred Segal World renown for its latest one-of-a-kind designer clothing, jewelry, hats, make-up, impeccable service and trend-setting fashion, the boutiques at Fred Segal attract style-conscious customers, stylists and celebrities.

420 and 500 Broadway | fredsegal.com

12:30 p.m. Lunch at The Lobster

502 Santa Monica Boulevard | jirafferestaurant.com

The Lobster is a Santa Monica icon. Enjoy Fanny Bay Oysters ($15) followed by their famous American Lobster Salad ($23) while dining al fresco or inside the glass-enclosed main room. Wherever you sit, you will enjoy a spectacular view of the ocean and the pier with superb service.

9:30 p.m. Evening Cocktails

1602 Ocean Avenue | thelobster.com

Not in the mood for a traditional drink? Create your own cocktail at Copa d’Oro with fresh organic produce from local farmers. The mixologist on staff will happily help you. Simply select from the premium spirits, market-fresh herbs, fruits and vegetables — and they will do the rest.

217 Broadway | copadoro.com

Downtown Santa Monica @DTSantaMonica downtownsm.com Mention this ad at the Santa Monica Place Concierge Desk (level 1) to receive your complimentary Visitors Rewards Books for Santa Monica Place and Downtown Santa Monica—filled with special savings and offers at participating stores and restaurants! ADVERTISEMENT WhereDTSM_FullPgEliteTraveler1_8.31.indd 1 008-17_WhereNow_WLA.indd 8

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Hot Dates 10.11

What’s sizzling in seconds flat

ALL MONTH IRIS L.A. has earned its own Cirque du Soleil spectacle, fittingly themed around the history of film. Iris uses dance, acrobatics, live video, filmed sequences and animation to tell the history of cinema and its various genres. Scored by Grammy and Emmy Award winner Danny Elfman, it’s at the Kodak Theatre in Hollywood. p. 94 OCT. 2–7, 9–14 DINE L.A. RESTAURANT WEEK This gastronomic extravaganza highlights the city’s culinary talent, with participating restaurants offering prix fixe lunch and dinner menus at affordable prices. Enjoy chefs’ creations from Pasadena to the South Bay at more than 300 longtime establishments and new eateries. p. 94 OCT. 7–9, 14–16, 20–23, 27–31 QUEEN MARY’S DARK HARBOR Madness and mayhem await in Long Beach for a fright fest that takes full advantage of the Queen Mary’s reputation as one of America’s most haunted places. The annual event features seven bloodcurdling mazes and attractions on the ship and shore, plus food and live entertainment. p. 94

Vija Celmins, Freeway, 1966, on display at the Getty Center

OPENING OCT. 1

collection of Harold Cook, Ph.D., courtesy McKee Gallery, New York

Just in Time Pacific Standard Time: Art in L.A. 1945–1980 brings together more than 60 cultural venues throughout Southern California to tell the story of the rise of the Los Angeles art scene. The Getty Foundation-initiated collaboration, the largest ever undertaken by the region’s institutions, explores the years after World War II through the 1960s and ’70s. Included are L.A. pop, post-minimalism, modernism, multimedia installations, films of the African-American L.A. rebellion, Woman’s Building feminism, Chicano performance art, Japanese-American design and artists’ collectives. Participants include the Los Angeles County Museum of Art, Museum of Contemporary Art, Hammer Museum, Getty Museum, California Institute of the Arts, Japanese American National Museum, Watts Towers Arts Center and others in San Diego, Orange County, Santa Barbara and Palm Springs. (The work pictured is from the Getty Center exhibition Pacific Standard Time: Crosscurrents in L.A. Paintings and Sculpture 1950–1970). p. 94 NEARBY From the Getty Center, venture into neighboring Brentwood. Shop at Turpan (310.451.9500) at the Brentwood Country Mart or legendary Ron Herman (310.207.0927) on bustling San Vicente Boulevard. Dig into Suzanne Goin’s California comfort cuisine at Tavern (p. 70) or the well-priced omakase at sushi restaurant Sugarfish (p. 74).

OCT. 18 KINGS VS. BLUES After an exciting playoff run last season, the L.A. Kings hockey team looks to reignite that momentum in a home game against the St. Louis Blues, the first of the season for the Kings. Catch all the action at Staples Center downtown. p. 94 OPENING OCT. 25 NEXT FALL Opposing views on faith and family collide in this critically acclaimed play that exposes a fundamental truth: that we love people because of—and in spite of—who they are. The show makes its West Coast debut, with the Broadway production’s original director, Sheryl Kaller, at the Geffen Playhouse in Westwood Village. p. 94 THROUGH OCT. 31 TIM BURTON It’s your last chance to see the Los Angeles County Museum of Art’s exploration of the Burbank-born director’s creative work in film and beyond. More than 700 pieces, including drawings, paintings, photographs and costumes, showcase Burton’s inspiration from pop culture, fairy tales and gothic traditions. p. 99 OCT. 31 WEST HOLLYWOOD HALLOWEEN COSTUME CARNAVAL More than 500,000 people take to the streets of Santa Monica Boulevard in their kookiest, most elaborate costumes for the largest Halloween street party in the world. There is also live entertainment, food vendors and the crowning of an honorary “Queen of the Carnaval.” p. 94 Here for the weekend? Go to WhereLA.com for our Weekend Roundup, where you can get the lowdown on the coolest festivals, performing arts events, dining promotions and more.

Even before it earned its reputation as a haunted ship, the Queen Mary was dubbed the “Grey Ghost” when it was used as a transport vessel in World War II. Spooky!

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where now Los Angeles

The best in dining, nightlife and shopping.

» Dining

House Made If eating by a pier conjures up thoughts of ﬁsh ‘n’ chips and other suspect seafood dishes, think again. Steps from the Manhattan Beach Pier, The Strand House is a sophisticated, multilevel restaurant with ocean views. Grace’s Neal Fraser and executive chef Travis Lorton created a menu of modern American cuisine that includes dishes such as Manila clam pizza and spit-roasted suckling pig with spaëtzle and violet mustard. Entrees can be accompanied by sides of vegetables such as roasted cippolini onions, and washed down with cocktails crafted with fresh fruits and herbs. Seth Caro of Top Chef: Just Desserts handles the unmissable desserts. (Pictured: butterscotch doughnuts with powdered bacon and burned peaches.) 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470

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The namesake dessert at fonuts on west 3rd Street

FO’ sURE A healthy doughnut is a paradox, but Waylynn Lucas’ fonut—faux doughnut—may edge just a little closer to health consciousness. Nancy Truman and pastry chef Lucas, an alum of the Bazaar by José Andrés and Patina, opened Fonuts on West 3rd Street to peddle Lucas’ novel creation: a doughnut that’s baked at high heat instead of fried, and made with reduced amounts of sugar, coconut oil and egg for a significantly healthier treat. There are even vegan and gluten-free fonuts. And the taste? The dough has a noticeably different texture—lighter than a doughnut and heavier than a cake—but the cream fillings and frostings very closely resemble those of a traditional ‘nut. Highlights of the sweet fonuts are cinnamon-and-sugar and peanut butter-and-jelly; as for the savory varieties, the maple-bacon fonut earns raves. The shop also sells Lamill artisan coffee drinks. 8104 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.592.3075

Si, Si say hola to Beverly Hills’ new Taberna Mexicana. executive chef alex Padilla hails from the original ninfa’s on navigation, the enduring 37-year-old Houston eatery that was just reproduced in Glendale, ariz. Padilla, who received his culinary training in Mexico and europe, fuses the regions’ respective cooking techniques and styles in dishes such as pumpkin-seed-crusted scallops, lamb shank marinated with pasilla chiles, prime rib with a mole

rub, and a selection of unique tacos, including one filled with braised duck. Bobby Heugel of Houston’s anvil Bar & lounge created a signature cocktail menu that features the Villa Vengeance (made with jalapeño-infused tequila, lemon, cucumber and mint), Pisco Punch (pisco, grapefruit, lime and pineapple) and chamomile Paloma (tequila, house chamomile liqueur, grapefruit and honey). 369 n. Bedford drive, Beverly Hills, 310.858.7070

Rancheros enchilada from Taberna Mexicana in Beverly Hills

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» nightlife

Angeles

A Chick’s Guide to Beer If L.A. had a spokesperson for beer, it would have to be Christina Perozzi. As the “Beer Chick,” the ebullient beer sommelier has crafted beer lists for some of L.A.’s best eateries and bars. Perozzi now shares her girl-power-esque nickname with fellow expert Hallie Beaune, her co-author of the book The Naked Pint: An Unadulterated Guide to Craft Beer and her co-owner in 8th Street Bottle Shop, a bottled-craft-beer shop in the Golden Gopher downtown. Where tapped Perozzi for her insight into the local beer scene and tasting tips.

You came to L.A. to be a musician. When did you decide to focus on beer? It was the moment when I realized that I had a passion for craft beer as big as my passion for music. It was when I realized that, in addition to being delicious, beer was history, cultural anthropology and travel all rolled into one. Also, beer doesn’t reject you the way the music industry does! Oh, and also, I heard Patty Griffin’s new record and said forget it. What’s it like to be in the maledominated beer world? It’s fun! I seem to find myself in a lot of situations where I’m the only girl in the room, which ain’t so bad. In the not-so-distant past, I used to get a lot of wide-eyed “you’re a girl and you’re a beer expert?” questions, but not so much anymore. How do you think L.A.’s craftbeer scene has evolved? We used to be about 10 years behind the East Coast and places like Portland [Oregon] and Seattle and even San Diego in terms of beer culture, but now we’re on the cutting edge. L.A. brewers are innovative and experimental. They’re what I call “third wave,” meaning brewers are creating nuanced, interesting beers that don’t necessarily smack you across the face with hops like you get in a lot of other West Coast brewing

communities—not that there’s anything wrong with that. For instance, Mark Jilg from Craftsman Brewing Company in Pasadena, who basically started the craftbeer revolution in L.A., makes a delicious beer called Tripel White Sage that’s brewed with white sage from the California hills. Patrick Rue at The Bruery in Orange County makes a fall seasonal called Autumn Maple made with yams and maple syrup. What have been some of your favorite local projects? They’ve all been really great and really different. I loved working with Will Shamlian on Laurel Tavern in the Valley. His goal was to only do California beers, only on tap and serve them all at a great value, which is what I think beer is all about. Beer Belly was a great recent experience. Owners Jimmy and Yume Han really know their stuff and decided to concentrate not only on California beers, but on specifically Los Angelesarea beers! ... And, of course, I love working with the Golden Gopher and Seven Grand with Hallie in downtown Los Angeles. What are some of your other favorite spots for brews? The Daily Pint in Santa Monica— aside from having one of the best beer lists and having four handpumped beer engines for special cask-conditioned pours, this bar

has one of the most amazing single-malt scotch collections in the city. The Library Alehouse in Venice—the beer list is top-shelf, and they do some of the most amazing beer events in L.A., and [do them] often! The Surly Goat in West Hollywood—the owner, Ryan Sweeney, is one of the foremost experts on beer in Los Angeles. He also has the best connections and the best backroom collection. If you’re real nice to him and show a real interest in beer, he might break out something special for you. The Tripel in Playa del Rey—I love this teeny-weeny place close to

the beach! They have great and interesting food, an encompassing beer list and they make beer cocktails! What advice would you give to a novice beer drinker? Don’t judge a beer by its name, its color, its label, whether the commercial is funny or if your dad likes it. Focus on flavor and forget all the rest. Pay attention to the beer that you’re drinking. Savor it, treat it like wine. Be adventurous in your choices, and don’t define yourself by one brand or style. Take notes, read blogs and books like ours, The Naked Pint, or Tasting Beer by Randy Mosher or The Brewmaster’s Table by Garrett Oliver. And, most importantly, drink lots of beer. Be honest: Do you ever get tired of drinking it? There are days, I must admit, when a good Wild Turkey Rye Manhattan from Seven Grand or a mezcal cocktail from Las Perlas downtown definitely wins out. But my first and last drink is usually a beer! Beer Belly in Koreatown

DETAILS Beer Belly 532 S. Western Ave., Koreatown, 213.387.2337 The

Bruery 715 Dunn Way, Placentia, 714.996.6258 Craftsman Brewing Company 1260 Lincoln Ave., Pasadena, 626.296.2537 The Daily Pint 2310 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.450.7631 Golden Gopher/8th Street Bottle Shop 417 W. 8th St., downtown, 213.614.8001 Las Perlas 107 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.988.8355 Laurel Tavern 11938 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.506.0777 Library Alehouse 2911 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.314.4855 Seven Grand 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 The Surly Goat 7929 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.4628 The Tripel 333 Culver Blvd., Playa del Rey, 310.821.0333

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131 N Robertson Blvd, Los Angeles 310.550.7855 Santa Monica Place 310.255.0408 tedbaker.com

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where now Los

Angeles shopping

Chic at the Beach

Lanvin in Malibu

SHOE IN L.A.-based fashion designer Stacey Bendet’s Alice + Olivia, the playful line of women’s ready-to-wear worn by celebrities such as Anne Hathaway, Jennifer Lopez and Taylor Swift, has expanded with a brand-new line of shamelessly girly statement footwear. Styles include the Paige ankle boot made of laser-cut pony hair, the bow-accented Gizelle heel covered in platinum glitter and the Reyna suede bootie trimmed in royal blue fox fur. As one might expect, there’s not a style without a dramatic platform sole. Find the kicks at Alice + Olivia’s West Coast boutiques on Robertson Boulevard and at the Malibu Lumber Yard shopping center. 134 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.247.0120; 3939 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.775.8375

L.A. is a place to see and be seen: in the hottest club, at the newest restaurant and on the shore. Now, sunbathers can catch some rays in style in beach-ready clothing and accessories from the newest Lanvin boutique in Malibu. The eminently chic French high-fashion house, founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889 and today designed by Alber Elbaz, recently opened an extension of its Rodeo Drive storefront at Malibu Village shopping center. Selling luxuriously feminine items with a beachthemed twist, the boutique is perfect for channeling that easygoing L.A. lifestyle. Lanvin’s signature silk charmeuse dresses, breezy caftans, swimsuits, casual sandals and beach totes fill out the mirrored 600-square-foot space. Prices for the items range from about $200 to $4,000. 3826 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.6808

Paige platform ankle boot by Alice + Olivia

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avantga

An intellectual interpretation of fashion by high- end Italian boutique brands.

9612 Brighton Way

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Beverly Hills

90210

Tel. 310.550.0504

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where now Los

Angeles You two started dating in L.A.? Bill: Yeah. I was helping renovate a Boys & Girls Club in Santa Monica and Giuliana came to interview me. Giuliana: I had a crush on him! I used my job to land a husband. Best move I ever made. Bill: I asked her if she wanted to go jogging sometime, and she said, “How about dinner?” So we went to Nobu in Malibu, had a nice drive. Giuliana: Remember, Bill, I texted you, “Nobu in Malibu,” and your friends thought, “She doesn’t want to be seen with you?” It’s actually a great place to be seen! Bill, you mentioned jogging. Do you enjoy the outdoors? Bill: I love to go for runs in the morning, right where San Vicente Boulevard hits the ocean. There’s a trainer I meet at the Santa Monica Stairs. How did you decide on living in Brentwood? Bill: Being from Chicago, I need to go out my door and walk places. A Votre Sante is right there. We love this hole in the wall Nagao Sushi on San Vicente Boulevard. It’s close to the airport. We love to walk on the Santa Monica Pier, too.

» Q+A LOVE, L.A. STYLE

For three seasons, Style Network viewers have watched Giuliana and Bill Rancic—she an E! News personality, he a winner of The Apprentice—survive and thrive through the challenges of living life in public on Giuliana & Bill: a whirlwind courtship, building a dream home, trying to conceive a child. After splitting time between Chicago and L.A. became too stressful for the couple, a choice had to be made—and L.A. won. “It’s an adjustment,” native Chicagoan Bill Rancic tells Where. “But come Janaury, it’s nice to be here!” With the show in its fourth season and Bill settling into life in La-La Land, Where thought it would be a perfect moment to quiz the couple on their local favorites.

What do you think are some of L.A.’s hidden treasures? Giuliana: L.A. gets accused of not having culture, but if you look, you can find it. I love art.... I actually work on Wilshire at Fairfax, so sometimes I’ll just swing over to LACMA at lunch. And our home is right near the Getty Center. More people need to take advantage of it. Bill: I’ve been able to do some cool things here—motorcycle riding on PCH; I learned how to surf. We rented a convertible and drove up the coast to San Francisco, and oftentimes you feel like you’re in a different country.

Giuliana: I love Abbot Kinney Boulevard, too. I think everyone needs to experience that and Gjelina. The lines are a pain, but it’s worth it. We sat at the community table, and you get bummed at first, but you meet people, and we’ve actually eaten food off other people’s plates. When friends come to visit, where do you take them? Giuliana: If friends are here for a little bit, we’ll take them on a hike. But if they want to see celebs, I’ll take them to the Ivy on Robertson, Katsuya, Madeo, Mr. Chow. My cousins will come from Italy, and they will want to see stars’ homes, and you’ll bring them, but the star’s not there, and the house is behind hedges. So now we just take them to big homes and say, “That’s Madonna’s home. See that gardener? That’s her ex-boyfriend.” Whoever they’re obsessed with. “Yeah, that’s Cameron Diaz’s house.” Details A Votre Sante 13018 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.451.1813 / Getty Center 1200 Getty Center Drive, Brentwood, 310.440.7300 / Gjelina 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 / Ivy Restaurant 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.274.8303 / Katsuya 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744 / The Los Angeles County Museum of Art 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 / Madeo 8897 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.859.024 / Mr. Chow 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 / Nagao Sushi & Salad 13050 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.451.7733 / Nobu Malibu 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.317.9140 / Santa Monica Pier 200 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica / Santa Monica Stairs 4th Street and Adelaide Drive, Santa Monica

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NE_LAP

September

2011–June

2012

An exhibition At the CentrAl librAry

This exhibition was organized by the Getty Research Institute, with support from Edison International. Walter H. Horne, Mujeres listas para recivir [sic] a Rábago (Women Ready to Meet Rábago) (detail), 1911. Getty Research Institute (89.R.46). © J. Paul Getty Trust 2011

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9/6/11 11:36 AM 9/13/11 1:22 PM

The Ramona Room at Mohawk Bend in Echo Park. Opposite: A few of Mohawk Bendâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many microbrew offerings

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gETTING

CRAFTY

ß e n th u s i a s m f o r c r a f t b e e r i s o v e r f l o w i n g i n l . a . ß

A few years ago, a wine-bar boom had Angelenos buzzing. Then we had a mixology moment with the rise of the artisan cocktail. But now, something else is brewing. Although the demand for craft beer has been building for some time, it’s bubbling over now as a slew of hip pubs and award-winning microbreweries set up shop, packing in discerning, suds-loving patrons ready to leave Miller time in the past. Herewith, a bar crawl to some of the county’s most promising spots for craft beer. B Y

K A T I E

C A R T H Y

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p hoto g ra p h S

AROUND THE BEND Upon seeing the exterior, you might not know what to make of Echo Park’s Mohawk Bend, located on an unpolished strip of Sunset Boulevard in the shell of an old movie theater. But after you enter under the art deco marquee, you’ll see that you’re in a massive bar and restaurant packed to the brim with the Eastside’s trendiest. The huge, fashionably outfitted space offers a variety of settings in which to sip and savor: a covered patio, an interior “quad” with plush leather banquettes, and the atrium-like Ramona Room, filled with live trees and with a roaring fireplace at its center. But the majority of the patrons are congregated near the bar in the middle, where “Chief Beer Officer” Paige Reilly keeps the 72 beer taps loaded with small-batch selections. A zeal for craft beer—defined as beer produced in limited production by a small brewing company, and also known as microbrews— brought Reilly and owner Tony Yanow together when they worked together at Yanow’s successful Tony’s Darts Away in Burbank. “I’ve been a craft-beer fanatic for more than two decades,” says Yanow, and adds slyly, “Paige has been passionately dedicated since she was almost old enough to drink.” Concocting the beer list for Tony’s proved to be a valuable education that they carried over to Mohawk Bend, which opened in August. “[Paige] and I have visited almost every brewery in the state and have spent considerable time learning

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about the beers, the breweries and the people involved,“ says Yanow. Reilly and Yanow chose to focus on California-brewed beers, of which there are usually 65 on tap, at Mohawk Bend. “We are incredibly fortunate to have some of the best breweries within the state. The idea is that we can do it,” Yanow proclaims. The daily changing list has included selections such as the fruity Heavenly Hef Hefeweizen from Pasadena’s Craftsman Brewing Company, the Sculpin IPA (India Pale Ale) by San Diego stalwart Ballast Point Brewing Company and the decadent Chocolate Porter from Hangar 24 Craft Brewery in Redlands. The fresh brews are made even more satisfying with dishes from a thoughtfully created food menu that includes numerous vegetarian and vegan options; try the addicting squash ‘n’ chips or build-your-own s’mores. Yanow reports that Mohawk Bend’s customers range from the “uninitiated” to “die-hard, serious craft-beer aficionados who can come into our bars and talk about hop varietals.” But he most enjoys meeting patrons who are “repulsed by beer”; he delights in finding the beer that will change their minds. Yanow says proudly, “I even got my mom to drink beer, and she hated that stuff.” The bar also serves wines, boutique distilled spirits and handcrafted cocktails, but if you chat with Yanow, Reilly or one of their beer-obsessed servers, don’t be surprised if they coax you toward an unfamiliar brew. Says Yanow, “For us, beer

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A frothy brew at Eagle Rock Brewery in Eagle Rock. Opposite: Angel City Brewing’s downtown taproom

is a lot more than a beverage and a craft. It’s a community, a passion and our livelihood.“  2141 W. Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.483.2337

ALL IN THE FAMILY Jeremy Raub doesn’t mince words about the results of his early home-brewing experiments with his father, Steve, when they picked up the hobby nearly 20 years ago. “Some of those first beers were pretty terrible!” he remembers. For years Jeremy and Steve tinkered with their brewing methods, poring over books, taking copious notes and occasionally surprising friends, family and themselves with a truly winning batch of beer. They even talked of opening their own microbrewery. “Then on my birthday in 2005, [my wife] Ting [Su] surprised me by registering the business name. She said, ‘If you’re really serious about this, it’s time to stop talking and start doing,’ “ says Jeremy. Thanks to that gentle push, Eagle Rock Brewery was born at the end of 2009, and co-owners Steve, Jeremy and Su have made the brewery a major player in the local craft-beer scene. Not only can the brewery’s beers be found in dozens of L.A.’s restaurants and bars, but they’ve also helped turn the sleepy bedroom community of Eagle Rock into a destination. Roll up to the brewery on a Saturday night and you’ll find a bustling taproom with few frills—a glossy granite bar illuminated by pendant lamps and a half-dozen wooden tables that are claimed early in the evening. Patrons toast one another with frosty glasses of Eagle Rock Brewery’s finest, including the fruity Populist IPA, the hoppy Revolution extra pale ale, and Manifesto, a feather-light Belgianstyle white ale. Jeremy is particularly proud of the English mild ale Solidarity—”it’s dark in color, but very light in flavor”—as well as the labor-intensive Yearling, a seasonal Flanders red ale aged for a year in wine barrels. If one glass isn’t enough to satiate you, take home a “growler,” an attractive-looking jug that holds 64 ounces of fresh-brewed beer.

As the beer movement has gotten bigger, Jeremy finds himself increasingly impressed by the knowledge of his customers. “When we first opened, it seemed like there were only a couple handfuls of people that already knew what was going on in the world of craft beer,” he says. But now, he reports, “So many of our customers are not only accustomed to drinking a wide range of beer styles, they are also really adventurous as to trying new styles of beer that they’ve never experienced.” Jeremy notes, “The craft-beer scene in L.A. is at a very exciting time right now.” While he points out that there is “fear of the ‘bubble’ bursting” due to the rapid growth of the local industry, he acknowledges that there’s a definite upside to the boom in craft beer-bars and microbreweries. “It’s a great time to be a beer lover in L.A.! Within the next few years we all have the chance to actually establish Los Angeles as a legitimate beer city.”  3056 Roswell St., L.A., 323.257.7866

DOWNTOWN AND ON THE WAY UP Michael Bowe, president, founder and self-proclaimed “brewmaster” of downtown’s Angel City Brewing, has more in common with Jeremy Raub than just owning a microbrewery: He, too, was inspired to get serious about brewing beer by his wife. “I read an ad in a contractor magazine for a mail-order home-brew kit in 1989, and bought the kit,” he remembers. “I made it for my pregnant wife, and after our first son was born, she started drinking it and loved it!” Bowe might have started brewing for love, but he kept at it for the love of brewing, joining the Maltose Falcons home-brewing club and scooping up awards for his creations. “My first blue ribbon was for an IPA in 1990,” he recalls. “I was a fanatic and brought 10 to 15 gallons to every meeting. I was very popular!” he jokes. Later, he says, “I got to go to Sierra Navada Brewing Co. and watch and learn what they did. I started Angel City Brewing on St. [Patrick’s] Day 1997 and never looked back.” The brewery was founded in Culver City before moving to Torrance’s Alpine Village. In May it moved again to a sprawling, bare-bones space in the historic John A. Roebling Building in downtown’s emerging Arts District. “It feels great to be in downtown L.A.—such an up-andcoming, vibrant scene!” Bowe exclaims. He calls his business a “brewery/art gallery,” and the rough, industrial look of the space is enlivened by changing art shows. Angel City is still evolving—Bowe has ambitious plans to include stages for live music, a gift shop, even a full-service restaurant—but right now, the taproom offers a cool, relaxed setting for tasting in view of impressive stainlesssteel brewing tanks. Like Wurstküche (see sidebar) a few blocks away, it also serves Italian sausages topped with grilled onions and peppers, the perfect savory complement to an ice-cold beer. The scene at Angel City is even more festive when it hosts frequent special events with beer tastings, bands, food trucks and barbecue cooked

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CONTINUING THE CRAWL

At the yearling Congregation Ale House in Long Beach, a stainedglass window mosaic of a pint of beer indicates the religious devotion to craft beer; 32 selections, mainly from Europe, are on tap. A cool feature of the bar is the built-in Chilldiscs—coasterlike electronic contraptions that keep your beverage chilled. Sandwiches, flatbreads and exotic sausages are also available. 201 E. Broadway, Long Beach, 562.432.2337

Torrance may not be one of the county’s biggest draws, but new 1321 is a promising sign for the city. At a bar that’s way too chic— with hanging Edison bulbs, leather booths and copper décor accents—bartenders serve more than 50 beers as well as handcrafted cocktails and wines. Also find global bar-food standards including calamari tacos, sauerkrauttopped sausages and fish ‘n’ chips. 1321 Sartori Ave., Torrance, 310.618.1321

A mind-blowing 120 beers are on draft at Smith House, a laid-back new pub in traditionally buttoned-up and business-oriented Century City. Smith House incorporates nifty in-table taps a la City Tavern and offers a creative food menu from Top Chef alum Angelo Sosa with finger-licking-good dishes such as pineappleglazed ribs, fried green tomato rings and beer fondue. 10351 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.432.4360

On hopping Cahuenga Boulevard is Stout, a brick-clad bar without Hollywood pretensions. Its glorious centerpiece is a handsome copper bar with 30 handles offering weekly rotating craft brews; check out those from California-based brewers such as Green Flash Brewing Company. A menu of 10 burgers contains beer pairing suggestions for each sandwich. Bonus: It’s open until 4 am. 1544 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.3801

1321, rick poon photography

IF there’s still room in your beer belly, visit these other happening spots for microbrews.

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by Bowe’s brother Michael. And then there are those wonderful, creatively named beers, the main attractions of Angel City, which continue to win awards, such as the nine medals Bowe took home from the L.A. County Fair’s last two beer competitions. Consider the “revolutionary” Che pale lager, the “bright and edgy” Charlie Parker Pale Ale and the “mellow” Lester Young Porkpie Hat Dark Lager. (Bowe is a jazz musician.) “We will soon have the full compliment of 10-15 beers on tap including new beers like Angel City Whitey, Scorpion Sour and several barrel-aged beers,” Bowe reports. The local media have been abuzz over the presence of a microbrewery not confined to the L.A. County’s outskirts, but no one is a bigger believer in Angel City Brewing than Michael Bowe. He says confidently, “Our new location is phenomenal and Angel City Brewing will emerge as the dominant craft brewery in Los Angeles within a year.”  216 S. Alameda St., downtown, 213.622.1261

FUN ON TAP

City Tavern in Culver City. Opposite: City Tavern’s self-serve Table Taps

A locus of activity in Culver City has long been Rush Street, a restaurant and bar in the middle of the city’s downtown where patrons spill out onto the sidewalk. Walk west on Culver Boulevard, and you’re likely to see people buzzing around another patio—that of new City Tavern. Rush Street partners Ken Kaufman and Brian McKeaney came together with its executive chef, Dave Northrup, to mastermind a modern tavern that would copy Rush Street’s successful formula of a solid food menu and casually stylish looks—see the distressed brick walls, exposed wood beams and reclaimed-wood floors. And they added to the equation a selection of great microbrews. “One of the big focuses we had in creating City Tavern was that great craft beer can be paired with upscale food,” says Northrup, who leaves the kitchen duties to chef Jessica Christensen while he works with Kaufman and McKeaney on the business end. Northrup confesses that though he’s “not a big beer drinker,” he’s drawn to

A list of craft-beer spots isn’t complete without mention of Father’s Office gastropubs in Santa Monica and Culver City. In addition to being a contender for offering the county’s best burger, Father’s Office sends its bartenders through mandatory beer education, making them valuable resources for recommendations from more than 30 beers on tap. Beer avoiders can choose from a selection of boutique wines. 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica; 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City. 310.736.2224

Steps away from the Manhattan Beach Pier, BrewCo Manhattan Beach has been a favorite local watering hole for two decades. The beer list makes a few concessions to the popular vote with Budweiser and Michelob Ultra, but it also includes such respectable boutique brewers as Arrogant Bastard and the venerable Deschutes Brewery of Portland, Ore. A Philly cheese steak or chipotle burger from the menu makes a fine complement to the beers. 124 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.798.2744

Set off a busy avenue and tucked behind a parking lot, Koreatown’s Beer Belly is distinguishable by its cool, graffiti-art-accented exterior. (Painted arrows indicating “drink” and “park” also help.) Owners Jimmy and Yume Han are a gracious couple who insist on serving beers from Southern Californiabased brewers, including Eagle Rock Brewery and Ballast Point, on the bar’s 12 taps. The menu also offers a few wines and guilty-pleasure fare including duck-fat fries. 532 S. Western Ave., Koreatown, 213.387.2337

“the idea that a couple of guys who start out just home brewing can follow their passion and create a business out of it. Beer can be a truly local product.” There are 22 handles of California-made microbrews at City Tavern’s main bar, many of them from the L.A. area; featured breweries have included Port Brewing Co., Bear Republic Brewery and Iron Fist Brewing Co. Northrup emphasizes that, since City Tavern’s April opening, the team has constantly searched for new brewers and beers to include in the rotating tap selection. “We have put up over 250 different types of beer since we opened,” he says. Artisan cocktails and wines are also available, but another unique gadget keeps the focus on beer: the Table Tap, a computerized draft-beer system built into three of City Tavern’s booths that allows customers to pour their own drinks. Come happy hour, they’re snapped up by a cool after-work crowd who hang out to sample new brews and share plates of sweet-and-spicy meatballs, curry-roasted cauliflower and “cheesy poofs” with buttermilk dressing. Says Northrup of the fun-to-use Table Taps, “It really adds to the communal feel of the place.” Northrup sees a mix of “craft-beer-educated people” and those who are new to microbrews, but notes that no matter the level of experience, most are eager to learn more. “It’s exciting to see folks appreciating a new experience in the beer universe.”  9739 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.838.9739

Downtown’s wildly popular Wurstküche beer-and-sausage concept has inspired imitations all over town, including another Wurstküche in Venice, opening this month. At the original location, enjoy franks and Belgian fries with imported beers (there are 24 on tap) on an outdoor patio or at lively communal tables, where it’s easy to make new friends. The under-21 crowd is welcome, too, and they can find something to sip from a selection of gourmet sodas. 800 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.687.4444; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice

California love is evident at The Golden State, which demonstrates a commitment to California-made food and beer. Draft beers can be paired with a juicy grass-fed hot dog by local favorites Let’s Be Frank. And the Golden State’s awardwinning beer float—made with North Coast Old Rasputin Imperial Stout and a heap of brown bread gelato from quirky L.A.based Scoops—presents an untraditional yet delicious way to enjoy two old favorites. 426 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.8331

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8best of the b

Huset in Venice

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e boutiques Recession? What recession? The past year has seen a boutique boom, and these 15 hot new boutiques are the cream of the bumper crop. What’s in store? Superedgy jewelry, the softest tees, artisan foodstuffs, handmade knits, and baby clothes worth awww-ing about, to start. Now, let’s talk shop. BY K ATIE M c CARTHY BEST HOME DÉCOR If you’ve OD’d on Ikea, gain a fresh perspective on Scandinavian design at Venice’s Huset. Huset was formerly an e-commerce site, and since its inception in 2007, the owners have constantly traveled to Scandinavia to unearth emerging designers and products. They showcase a range of home décor, furniture and kitchenware: brightly printed Almedahls tea towels, Giarimi Stockholm etched drinking glasses, a tree-shaped coat rack by Swedese and ladderlike Libri shelves. Kids aren’t left out, what with the selection of Ferm Living wall stickers, Brokiga art prints and innovatively designed toys. There’s also a selection of earthy bohemian clothing in the back from designers such as Hunkydory and Odd Molly. BEST COSTUME JEWELRY Is there a fashion editor alive who doesn’t prostrate before the throne of Alexis Bittar? His standout designs always make an impact, whether the statement is colorful and whimsical (see the Alexandria necklace with a fan-shaped pendant of peacockfeather-printed lucite) or minimal and practical (the organic-shaped metal cuffs in his Miss Havisham line). Two Alexis Bittar boutiques opened simultaneously in L.A., one on West 3rd Street and the other on Venice’s Abbot Kinney Boulevard, and seem to capture the dichotomy of Bittar’s style. The West 3rd store is decorated with wild graffiti wall murals and taxidermied animals; the Venice location is a more understated black-and-white bungalow.

BEST HANDMADE GOODS In the post-Etsy universe, the arrival of Hollywood’s ArtString Boutique seems perfectly timed to fill the growing desire for personal, handmade goods. Owner and designer Emilie Odeile is known to toil in the rear of her Cherokee Avenue shop making her own elaborate clothing and accessories. This isn’t your grandma’s knitwear: Odeile weaves, knits and crochets slouchy tank tops, men’s ties, peekabooback minidresses, leg warmers, Comme des Garçons-inspired hole-y sweaters, and even earrings and headbands. Odeile is happy to tailor and alter items and even does custom pieces; one popular style is a shredded knit that she sews onto a classic Doc Marten boot for a grunge look.

BEST BASICS Unlike that other American-made apparel-basics company, Alternative Apparel offers go-with-everything tees, pants, sweaters and accessories that you don’t have to be a lissome 19year-old to pull off. Alternative’s first retail store recently opened in a sweet Craftsmanstyle bungalow on Venice’s Abbot Kinney Boulevard, complete with garden in front. It’s a pleasant environment in which to load up on the company’s signature worn-in cotton T-shirts, cool shawl-collar cardigans, printed leggings and knit accessories such as caps and scarves. In addition to the brand’s own offerings are Gurkees sandals, Good Society denim, Katin board shorts, Sword & Fern jewelry and more.

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best DesiGNeR The unpredictable Tom Ford has been the talk of the industry since last fall when he staged a surprise runway show to relaunch his womenswear collection after a six-year hiatus. Then, suddenly, one of America’s best designers was truly back in the game. To top it off, Ford’s palm-tree-flanked Rodeo Drive boutique was unveiled this year after more than two years of anticipation. The two-story, 9,200-square-foot space is an opulent showcase for his ultraglam women’s collection and menswear line, including those nonpareil suits—and since the secretive artist eschews Fashion Week runway presentations, it’s one of three boutiques in the nation where fashionistas can glimpse the entire collections.

best sWiMWeAR There are two

Handbags from Rough Roses in West L.A.

kinds of swimsuits: ones that, in material and style, seem built for action—Olympic swimming, water sports. And there are those that you know will keep the wearer grounded poolside, and may or may not ever be sullied by chlorinated water. Zimmermann swimwear falls in the latter category. Although the Robertson Boulevard boutique also contains the extensive collection of Zimmermann ready-to-wear, including resort-ready cocktail dresses and casual daywear, it’s those superchic swimsuits that distinguish the brand. Styles such as the frilly, peekaboo Purl Floral one-piece in chartreuse and the

strapless, sapphire-blue corseted Copy Cat look ready for the rooftop pool catwalk.

best CheAP thRiLL When the items on your wardrobe wish list exceed the dollars in your wallet, L.A. + JO comes to the rescue. The girl who has everything can find yet more of the newest trends at reasonable prices in this fast-fashion boutique, which has locations at Culver City’s Helms Bakery and Santa Monica Place shopping center. The well-curated selection and surprisingly good clothing materials—you won’t find paper-thin cottons or too-shiny polyesters—belie the fact that most items ring in at less than $100. Look for hip burnout T-shirts and tanks, cotton maxidresses, chiffon and lace cocktail dresses, leather bomber jackets, studded faux-leather handbags and a fun selection of costume jewelry, sunglasses, boho-chic scarves and straw fedoras.

best GouRMet GooDies If you’ve ever drooled over artisanal cheeses and freshly shucked oysters at San Francisco’s Ferry Building Marketplace, you’ll find a friend in The Market at Santa Monica Place, a like-minded cornucopia of artisanal foodstuffs. The name belies what’s actually offered—several boutiques and food purveyors, which are each worth a look. Indulge in cured meats from Norcino Salumeria Cheese Bar, taste single-origin fair-trade coffee at Groundwork Coffee Co. and wines at Venokado, or satiate your sweet tooth with a Beachy Cream ice cream sandwich, Röckenwagner Bakery soufflé or L’Artisan du Chocolat truffle. Also find organic and biodynamic skin-care products at Benedetta and fresh flower arrangements at Magical Blooms.

best uNDeRthiNGs The slightly cringe-worthy name Intimacy caused us to initially look past this boutique at Westfield Century City shopping center. But our resistance was weakened; soon, we had to acknowledge that this is the place to pick up a set of frilly, perfectly fitted bras and underwear. Founder Susan Nethero is known as “the Bra Whisperer,” and she schools her disciples well. Surrender to the relentless (but friendly) bra fitters who will ask you your size and, most likely, swiftly

PREVIOUS SPREAD: DANIEL SAXLID

best hANDbAGs West L.A.’s Rough Roses provides a refreshing antidote to the overly logo-ed designer bag. The sole retail store for this yet-undiscovered handbag brand is a diamond in the rough: It sits on an odd strip of Wilshire Boulevard near fast-food chains and dive bars. But before you turn your nose up at the location, step inside. Owner/designer Wynn Katz, who co-founded the accessories line Linea Pelle, crafts some on-trend bags that don’t scrimp on quality materials or expensive-looking details and start at less than $200, topping out at around $500. The practical leather bags in the fall line include clutches with removable chain straps that transform them into cross-body bags, and a pouchette-like single-strap backpack in a crinkly washed leather. Wallets and belts are available, too.

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7 FOR ALL MANKIND ALLSAINTS SPITALFIELDS BARNEY ’S CO-OP BCBGMAXAZRIA BuRBERRY BRIt BLOOMINGDALE’S HuGO BOSS COACH EVA VARRO JOHNNY WAS KENNEtH COLE KITSON LOuIS VuIttON MICHAEL KORS NORDStROM TIFFANY IFFANY & CO. tORY BuRCH TRuE RELIGION & MANY MORE

Sunny Style

The best collection of shops and restaurants – with a splash of ocean views All designed for Santa Monica

Third Street Promenade and Broadway in Santa Monica Valet parking located at Broadway, 2nd and 4th Streets

See what’s fresh, fun and local at The Market – cooking classes, floral design, farm-to-table foods, fresh pasta, handmade ice cream, cookies and confections, personally-selected wines, one-of-a-kind gifts and more. Now ope opeN N oN the tthird hird Leve LeveLL diN iNi iN NiN iNg deck. d Mention this ad at the Santa Monica Place Concierge (level 1) to receive your complimentary Visitor Rewards Books for Santa Monica Place and Downtown Santa Monica, filled with special savings and offers at participating stores and restaurants. SANTAMONICAPLACE.COM

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show you that you’re wrong by coaxing you into styles by Le Mystère, Aubade, Chantelle Paris and Elixir de Lingerie that somehow fit better than anything you’ve worn before. Prices range from $60 for a T-shirt bra to more than $200 for some truly dreamy lace varieties. Bonus: Tailoring is complimentary for the life of any purchased bra.

Eggy on West 3rd Street; below left, Diptyque Philosykos eau de toilette from Space NK in Brentwood

BEST FINE JEWELRY Solange Azagury-Partridge’s eponymous line proves once and for all that fine designer jewelry can be fun, quirky and even witty while still being drop-dead glamorous. In her outlandishly decorated Rodeo Drive boutique with a rainbow-patterned floor and a blue sky ceiling, baubles feature stones and glossy lacquers in every color—sometimes all in one piece, such as in the eye-catching Black Rainbows collection. Look closely at these pieces: The Offering ring appears to have a traditional setting, but actually bears a rough-cut diamond set in two teeny hands. That’s a pair of parted lips in that red-lacquer Hotlips ring; and the intricate, fan-shaped Mary Jane ring is actually a, uh, certain kind of leaf. Necklaces and rings bearing the signs of the Chinese and traditional zodiac make for unique gifts, too.

BEST CHILDREN’S + BABY There’s a fine line between cute and cutesy, and it’s never more noticeable in children’s clothing. Thankfully, West 3rd Street’s Eggy skews to the former. Owner and mom Jenny An opened this bricks-and-mortar

shop after finding success with her online boutique. Rather than peddling the kind of pastel nightmares that can often be found in youth clothing stores, An selects pieces that look like itty-bitty versions of clothing their hip parents might wear: bubble coats, faux fur outerwear and “jeggings” for girls, and military jackets, blazers and denim button-downs for boys. Take your little ones here to get them looking way too cool for school. Modern furniture, books, toys and gifts are also sold here.

BEST BEAUTY Beauty geeks meet their match in Nicky Kinnaird, lifelong product junkie and owner of Space NK, the British apothecary that just opened its first freestanding West Coast store at the Brentwood Country Mart. Like a bettercurated Sephora, Space NK is stocked with the cult lines and tried-and-true boutique brands that a diva can’t live without: Lipstick Queen lipsticks, Eve Lom and Jurlique skin care products, By Terry and Jemma Kidd makeup, Oribe and Philip B. hair products

and more. Kinnaird also channels her knowhow in the Space NK line of personal care products: brightly packaged bath gels, fragrance, candles and more. (Smaller Space NK boutiques can also be found inside Bloomingdale’s stores at Santa Monica Place, Sherman Oaks Fashion Square and Westfield Century City.)

BEST HATS A tip of the hat goes to Goorin Bros. Hat Shop, a longtime Melrose Avenue resident who just opened two new stores on L.A.’s Larchmont Boulevard and in Old Pasadena. Even if you’ve never considered yourself a “hat person,” you could be swayed by Goorin Bros.’ stunning selection of creative toppers for men, women and children: newsboy caps, Panama hats, fedoras, cloches, ballcaps, beanies and more. The transporting, vintage-esque décor gives the boutiques an aura of a place where your grandfather might have shopped for a chapeau to match his three-piece suit. Hats are propped on antique mahogany tables and shelves next to signs with old-time

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MainStr

HOME OF BOUTIQUES & PAMPERING, THE GREEN LIGHT DISTRICT AND THE HAPPIEST HOUR ALL ON HISTORIC MAIN STREET.

ADELHEID & EUPHEMIA STUDIO 2802 main st. suite 3 310.570.5267 shoppingcarttree.com

MONKIE 2665 main st. 310.450.4512 monkieboutique.com

LA VECCHIA CUCINA 2654 main st. 310.399.7979 lavecchia.com

The littlest gallery/studio in L.A. ART: from dada to wabi-sabi found objects and design services by local artist Anthony Schmitt.

A well-edited offering of beautiful and hard-to-find clothing, shoes and accessories for women.

Santa Monica’s finest neighborhood Italian restaurant since 1990. Offering outstanding cuisine, great wine, full bar and warm hospitality. Open daily for lunch and dinner.

A world away from the ordinary, a block away from the beach

BASEMENT TAVERN 2640 main st. 818.648.8391 thevictorian.com

AGABHUMI THE BEST OF BALI 2665 main st. suite a 310.396.2422 agabhumi.com

MINDFULNEST 2711 main st. 310.452.5409 mindfulnest.net

The Victorian, frequently used as a wedding/events venue, has a hidden “speak-easy” style bar called Basement Tavern at the Victorian.

Combining classic styling with trendsetting designs, Agabhumi features exclusive handmade imports including jewelry, handbags, sandals and accessories made in Bali.

Adornments for your home, body and soul, featuring over 100 artists who create cards, jewelry, metal, mixed media, paintings, pottery, prints, and body-products.

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Unionmade in Brentwood

script; the Larchmont store has a chandelier fashioned out of a camera reel and an 18thcentury music box.

alain mikli is coming to california. please check out our website www.mikli.com for shop openings in san francisco and beverly hills this october.

beverly hills 479 n. rodeo dr suite 101 - tel. 310 247 9479

best MeN’s If the towel-clad Old Spice guy is “the man your man could smell like,” the Unionmade guy is the man your man could dress like. This San Francisco-based sportswear store at the Brentwood Country Mart is pure, relaxed class, selling timelessbut-a-touch-hip American closet staples. Wares include Alden suede desert boots, striped Saint James boatneck shirts, rugged leather belts by Tender, Strawfoot Handmade canvas tote bags and vintage Levi’s jeans. Gentlemen can also purchase from a selection of rare and vintage books, grooming products and leather-bound notebooks (presumably so he can write a memo to himself to buy tickets to that thing you love).

8WheRe to shoP Alexis Bittar 8383 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.9803; 1612 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.452.6901 Alternative Apparel 1337 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.482.3316 ArtString Boutique 1644 N. Cherokee Ave., Hollywood, 213.840.5624 Eggy 8365 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.658.8882 Goorin Bros. Hat Shop 1411/2 Larchmont Blvd., L.A., 323.463.2006; 49 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.440.1895 Huset 13161/2 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.268.4213 Intimacy Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.734.8598 L.A. + JO Helms Bakery, 3260 Helms Ave. Culver City, 310.838.2321; Santa Monica Place, 315 Colorado Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.4131 The Market Santa Monica Place, 315 Colorado Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.260.8300 Rough Roses 11859 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 424.248.3026 Solange Azagury-Partridge 340 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.276.4500 Space NK Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.451.7284 Tom Ford 346 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.270.9440 Unionmade Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.656.3373 Zimmermann 110 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.285.9680

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exploring

Beverly Hills

From left: Rush Street bar and Kirk Douglas Theatre, both in Culver City; Two Rodeo in Beverly Hills

Beverly Hills is a luxury lover’s mecca: designer shopping, fine dining, mansions. Century City, Westwood and Culver City are pockets with their own draws.

Few neighborhoods match Beverly Hills’ grip on the popular imagination, thanks to a history studded with more celebrity and excess than an Aaron Spelling TV series. Today, luxury juggernauts lure well-heeled shoppers to Rodeo Drive, while the mansions of famous locals past and present draw busloads of lookyloos. Nearby cities and neighborhoods stake their own claims to L.A.’s affections, including skyscraper-speckled Century City, known for business and high-end shopping; Westwood, home to UCLA; and Culver City, an emerging dining and cultural destination steeped in entertainment industry history.

THE MANSIONS

The launch of Beverly Hills’s glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the new Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more economically diverse than Tinseltown might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts its share of famous residents, including the Cruises and the Beckhams. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour or book ahead with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the ‘hood, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s nearly six square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English revival-style Greystone Mansion & Park, whose graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE

From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the

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new in town

Chanel on Rodeo Drive

Barbara Bui

The Parisian designer offers items for an urban-femme uniform in a two-story space. 405 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.4452

C by Karina

Feminine designer-eyewear shop offers on-trend new styles and dead-stock vintage pairs. 236½ S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.777.1818

Sotto

Innovative yet unpretentious Italian cuisine in a subterranean, speak-easy-like space. 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210

£10

OPPOSITE: RUSH STREET AND KIRK DOUGLAS THEATRE, EDWIN SANTIAGO; TWO RODEO, BJARNE G. JENSEN. THIS PAGE: IAN WHITE

The whiskys of The Macallan are served with ceremony in a dedicated bar at the Montage Beverly Hills. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.5808

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shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Tom Ford, Lanvin and Badgley Mischka each recently opened flagships on Rodeo, reminding retailers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the states. Ascend the Italianesque side street to Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you’ll hit the Beverly Hilton Hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS

Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment business powerhouses based here. Witness fierce negotiations and wooing over Cobb salads at The Grill on the Alley on Dayton Way and Spago on Cañon. The city’s cultural treasure-troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Promising even more cultural programming is the forthcoming Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which is transforming the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

CENTURY CITY

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you’ll enter the 0.3-square-mile modern acropolis of Century City. International Creative Management and

Creative Artists Association are located here, as is a Fox Studio lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Just past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, with luxury boutiques and dining venues to rival those of Beverly Hills. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio draws epicures to his acclaimed restaurant Craft and lower-priced Craftbar. Steps away, The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA

A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum of Cultural History and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden in the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the seven-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens (100 Stein Plaza Driveway). The Hammer Museum is nearby and houses works by Degas and Rembrandt as well as contemporary works and installations. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE

Just south of the campus, the pedestrianfriendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafes among its art deco and Mediterranean Revival buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at the intersection of Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin Theater and the Village Theater across the street. The tower-topped Village Theater (built circa 1931) is a favorite for movie premieres, and thus prime star-spotting

territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on LeConte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY

Covering five square miles about four miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City has benefited from a polish in the past few years, and now boasts a thriving downtown. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage excellent live productions throughout the year. Traveling east on Washington, don’t miss the sprawling Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms, including Room & Board and H.D. Buttercup. Moving along, the hip and scene-y Arts District has one of the highest concentration of art galleries and exhibition spaces in L.A.; more than 30 are clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards including hot spot Corey Helford Gallery and district pioneer Blum & Poe. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City that claims the official motto “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios, today Sony Pictures Studios, opened at 10202 W. Washington Blvd. Classics including The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on the lots of the pioneering movie studio. The stately Thomas H. Ince Studio opened in 1918. Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, with the ABC series Cougar Town among the productions filming at Culver Studios, and the Spider-Man franchise among the hits produced on the historic lots at Sony. Fully experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking a studio tour at Sony. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 108–109.

great find

BACK TO BASICS Both a boutique and clothing line, The Lady & the Sailor was launched in April 2009 by owner/designer Brittany Correy and is built on the foundation for every woman’s wardrobe: the T-shirt. Correy’s easy, comfortable line features five styles—the Basic Tee, Flare Tank, Raglan, Flare Cardi and Bow Tee—offered in neutral colors or decorated with quintessential French stripes and bright pops of color. They’re on display at the flagship boutique alongside curated clothing items from such favorites as Gryphon, Epice and Otis & Maclain. Also find other gifts and wearables such as vintage jewelry, Sue London ballet flats, coffee-table books and fragrant Capri Blue candles. 9296 Civic Center Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.276.1015, theladyandthesailor.com

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AT THE INTERSECTION OF PAST & PRESENT.

ince 1934, the Original Farmers Market has stood at the crossroads of Los Angeles history and culture. Today, it remains one of the last of the Hollywood legends, attracting people from all over the world to enjoy its eclectic mix of restaurants, grocers, shops and the best people watching the city has to offer. In a world ruled by change, the Original Farmers Market stands as an enduring landmark, steadfast at the junction of then and now, on the corner of Third and Fairfax.

Market events and activities throughout the year. Visit www.farmersmarketla.com for calendars and updates.

“MEET ME AT THIRD

FAIRFAX”

6333 W. THIRD ST., LOS ANGELES, CA 90036 • 323.933.9211 OR 866.993.9211 MONDAY–FRIDAY 9AM–9PM • SATURDAY 9AM–8PM • SUNDAY 10AM–7PM 048-51_Downtown_WLA.indd 51

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exploring

Santa Monica

From left: Parker Mesa Overlook in Pacific Palisades; the Venice canals; Pacific Park at Santa Monica Pier

In the 1800s, a real estate agent called Santa Monica “the Santa Monica has Zenity City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of the approachable vibe of a beach town Santa Monica fulfills its early promise with a bustling downtown and beach that draw millions of visitors per year. By the shore with the benefits are athletic activities and the West Coast’s most famous pier; of a major city— on dry land are shops that suit a variety of tastes and hundreds nightlife, dining, of dining options. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with entertainment and destinations such as Malibu, Topanga, Brentwood and Venice. shopping galore. Malibu, Venice tHIRD STREET + THE PIER Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and and Brentwood Wilshire Boulevard, is perpetually teeming with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at three cinemas or gawk at the myriad street artists. are appealing If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along 3rd, visitors can venture to the surrounding options nearby. blocks to Ivy at the Shore or the Misfit, and enjoy drinks at Pourtal or the many pubs like Ye Olde King’s Head that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of English expats. Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 50 boutiques and a top-level Dining Deck with a food court, upscale restaurants and a gourmet marketplace. East on Broadway is the legendary Fred Segal, an emporium of high-end shops on each side of 5th Street. Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini-amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered Ferris wheel. On the northern end of the beach is Annenberg Community Beach House.

MORE HOT BLOCKS

Northeast of Third Street Promenade, the stretch of tree-lined Montana Avenue between 6th and 17th streets is pleasant, but still busy. Its boutiques including Anat B., Aura, Roseark and LF are of a more independent variety than those lining the promenade. Father’s Office, known

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Robert Irwin’s Central Garden at the Getty Center in Brentwood

new in town Hip’tique

Midpriced clothing, accessories, home décor and gifts of the beachy-chic variety. 2727 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.6106

OPPOSITE AND THIS PAGE: IAN WHITE

Lanvin

A petite boutique focuses on Alber elbaz’s swim and resortwear collections. Malibu Village, 3826 Cross Creek road, Malibu, 310.456.6808

O’Neill

Flagship store for the 60-year-old surf ‘n’ snow lifestyle brand. 131 Broadway, Santa Monica, 657.859.3721

Stella Rossa Pizza Bar

the upscale pizza trend comes to the coast at this brick-clad bar and grill. 2000 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.9250

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for its stellar burger, Locanda Portofino and R+D Kitchen are tops for dining; dessert lovers might venture to Sweet Lady Jane for its famous cakes. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street is a quieter destination that still retains Santa Monica’s beachyupscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, restaurants, British pubs and boutiques (mostly femme-friendly) such as Monkie, Hiptique and Paris 1900. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speak-easy, Basement Tavern.

THE ARTS

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s first-rate, 499-seat performing arts center that hosts pop and classical music concerts, film, dance and theater. As L.A. has emerged as a fine-arts capital, the campuslike Bergamot Station (2525 Michigan Ave.) has become an important destination. It’s home to 30 galleries, the Santa Monica Museum of Art and a café.

MALIBU

Twenty miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Stars have made their homes here since the 1920s when May Rindge, the eccentric wife of an heir who once owned all of Malibu, began inviting celebs to live in Malibu Colony to pay legal bills she racked up from fighting developers. Much of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, such as the many restaurants with ocean views, from the supercasual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Geoffrey’s).

Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard shopping centers, there are enough trendy shops and restaurants to while away an afternoon. Inland, nearing Calabasas, are many wineries such as Malibu Family Wines and Sip Malibu, which offer tastings. Malibu Discovery Tours hosts tours of the region.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES

In the counterculture 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessed by long, winding Topanga Canyon Boulevard from PCH. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty. Dining is best by the burbling creek at restaurants such as Abuelitas and Inn of the Seventh Ray. Pine Tree Circle has a lovely bistro and a few boutiques and galleries. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park. Cafés and upscale mom-and-pop shops such as Elyse Walker and the Prince’s Table can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. One relatively unknown gem is the SelfRealization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset, a breathtaking oasis on 10 acres with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The resplendent Getty Villa, often mistakenly identified as being in Malibu, is in Pacific Palisades. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities. Advance timed tickets are required.

VENICE

Abbot Kinney famously won the land that would become Venice in a coin toss. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, today lined with sleek modern homes and million-dollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina restaurant, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Alexis Bittar, Heist and Vamp are the main attractions. Looky-loos love to stroll Ocean Front Walk to ogle the street vendors and performers, or bodybuilders at Muscle Beach.

BRENTWOOD

Reese Witherspoon, Ben Affleck and Jennifer Garner are some of the celebrities who live in this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants between Bundy Drive and where San Vicente becomes Federal Avenue. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a unique open-air shopping center built in 1948, maintains a retro farmhouse charm but keeps retail offerings contemporary and upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that houses J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection.

MARINA DEL REY

Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest manmade small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants in the fisherman’s wharf are positioned to take advantage of the views. You can rent kayaks from UCLA Marina Aquatic Center (14001 Fiji Way), or shop and dine at Waterside at the Marina, located at Lincoln Boulevard and Fiji Way. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 108.

great find

DEEP IN THE HEART OF VENICE Looking to cultivate a more rugged sense of style? Look to Abbot Kinney Boulevard’s Skylark, where the unique aesthetic is Texas meets Venice Beach. Here, Western-inspired items such as distressed desert boots, plaid button-downs, denim shorts and braided leather belts mingle with modern hipster-wear: knit cardigans, worn-in tees, printed scarves. In addition to vintage clothing and accessories, look for new items from brands such as Frye, whose sturdy cowboy boots live up to their reputation, and underground brands such as Uzi and Blood is the New Black. The store’s vibe is enhanced with scrappy-stylish décor—think butcher-block tables, a railroad crossing sign and twinkly lights. 1356 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.9099, skylarkvenice.com

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MAVE_

Explore over 150 shops, restaurants and services from 6th to 17th streets in Santa Monica.

MoNtANA EyEs 709 Montana Ave, 310.917.4474

loNDoN solE 1331 Montana Ave, 310.255.0937 londonsole.com

tAlA JEWElry 1302 Montana Ave, 310.319.0407 talajewelry.com

London Sole offers the world’s largest collection of ballet flats, ballerina pumps, classic driving loafers and other exquisite traditional flat footwear from designer Jane Winkworth. The Montana and San Francisco boutiques are hot spots for celebrities who have fallen in love with the simple, sophisticated and sometimes bold designs.

Tala is Montana Avenue’s newest sparkling addition. Tala is focused on quality and craftsmanship as well as showcasing today’s hottest and most original designers. Italian designers Fope and Piero Milano along with Turkish designs from Gurhan are in-store, in addition to an eclectic and fresh mix of American designers including Aaron Basha,Pandora, Bochic and Chad Allison. If you love jewelry, you’ll love Tala.

Mon-Sat 10am-6pm

Mon-Sat 10am-6:30pm; Sun 11am-6pm

Mon-Fri 10am-6pm; Sat-Sun 11am-6pm

stEP sHoEs 1004 Montana Ave, 310.899.4409

tHrEE BAGs Full the sweater store

EvEry PicturE tElls A story 1333 Montana Ave, 310.451.2700 everypicture.com

Featuring the very best in American and European knitwear. Style, service and versatility–we make travel easy and elegant–xmall to 2x. From the simplest cotton cardigan to luxurious handknits, Three Bags Full has got you covered.

Every Picture Tells A Story is Los Angeles’ premiere gallery of the Art of Illustration, featuring original artwork and limited edition prints from Disney Studios, Dr. Seuss, Charles Schulz, Maurice Sendak, Marvel Comics and classics like Curious George, Stuart Little and Eloise—plus a unique selection of illustrated books and toys.

Do you accessorize with eyewear? Or, are you in the market for that perfect new pair of prescription glasses? Montana Eyes has showcased high-end eyewear for twenty years. This special boutique has any style to suit your needs: from the hottest trends to custom-frames and vintage specs. Come see for yourself why Hollywood stars shop at Montana Eyes.

Step Shoes offers the finest European quality footwear with brands such as Thierry Rabotin, Aguatalia, Cordani, Cydwoq, Mephisto MBT, Isabella Fiore and many more. In addition to its selection of comfortable and classy shoes, Step Shoes has a variety of distinctive handbags and fun accessories to choose from. Step Shoes is where style and comfort come together in total harmony. Mon-Sat 10am-6pm; Sun 12pm-5pm

716 Montana Ave, 310.395.5559 threebagsfull.com

Mon 10am-5pm; Tue-Sat 10am-6pm; Open most Sundays 11am-5pm. Call first.

Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10am-6pm

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exploring

West Hollywood

From left: The Grove; Farmers Market; Mel’s Drive-In on the Sunset Strip

Trends in fashion, design and food often begin in L.A., and many of those innovations can be traced to the pioneering community of West Hollywood.

For a municipality measuring less than two square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a disproportionate number of world-class art galleries, fashion boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike. West Hollywood celebrates diversity, as hipsters live in harmony with senior citizens and newly arrived immigrants. The city, often referred to as WeHo, is home to a large and influential gay community, protective of the city’s cultural development and high quality of life.

Sunset Strip

After dark, this iconic stretch of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Avenue becomes the hottest stretch of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene rocks here with many legendary establishments. The Roxy, Whisky a Go-Go and Rainbow Bar have a long history of hosting performances from rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Other Sunset Strip nightclubs include The Viper Room and the Key Club. The Comedy Store continues to showcase the leading names in standup as well as emerging stars. During the day, boutiques such as Live! on Sunset and beloved Book Soup draw traffic. Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Château Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. Skybar, at the style-conscious Mondrian, retains its aura of exclusivity. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

SUNSET PLAZA

Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente Boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking, a novelty

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OPPOSITE: THE GROVE, CHRISTOPHER IAN SMITH; FARMERS MARKET AND MEL’S DRIVE-IN, IAN WHITE. THIS PAGE: MONICA NOUWENS

The Broad Contemporary Art Museum at Los Angeles County Museum of Art

new in town Alex Maine

Boutique meets man cave: Americanmade men’s streetwear shop with a bar and lounge area. 8025 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.798.4652

Rosé

Glitzy restaurant with blush-hued décor touches is inspired by the cuisine and lifestyle of St. Tropez. 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.1294

Vodvil

Cocktail lounge does “game night for grown-ups” with multimedia games and entertainment. 351 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.951.0406

Zimmerman

Australian import with women’s ready-towear and trendy, superchic swimwear for the more fashionable beachgoer. 110 S. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.285.9680

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MELROSE AVENUE

Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street with multiple personalities. One stretch of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, the street is an eclectic mix of indie boutiques, cafés and coffee houses interspersed with tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland and Ed Hardy have wild façades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Fred Segal, Diane von Furstenburg, TenOverSix and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the quiet, fashionable three-block street of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up for chic salons such as Frédéric Fekkai and cutting-edge boutiques such as Zero + Maria Cornejo or Chloé.

THE AVENUES

Melrose Avenue’s massive Pacific Design Center is the hub of L.A.’s flourishing art, fashion and design district known as the Avenues, which runs along Melrose Avenue and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. The complex itself—monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—is itself noteworthy (you’ll either love it or hate it), but its 1.2 million square feet houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury homeowners. PDC is also home to a

satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery called Red Seven.

BEVERLY + WEST 3rd

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street are major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, filled with trendy restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, whose design is reminiscent of Paris’ Pompidou Center. Bloomingdale’s, Henri Bendel, Fendi, Gucci, Prada and the Capital Grille are among more than 160 establishments drawing consumers. On 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as Satine, Alexis Bittar for jewelry and Eggy for highend children’s attire. There are many dining options such as Suzanne Goin’s AOC, plus a branch of Manhattan’s Magnolia Bakery. On Beverly Boulevard, you can browse vintage Gucci or Lanvin at Beige, or score unique hand-crafted shoes at Calleen Cordero. Afterward, you can experience contemporary American cuisine at Eva Restaurant or modern Latin cooking at Playa.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD

Beverly Hills may be the toniest shopping district in L.A., but West Hollywood’s Robertson Boulevard is not far behind, particularly if you’re young and hot and have your own reality show. The celebutante set hits Kitson for posh bags, Zimmerman for haute swimwear and AllSaints Spitafields for a nouveau-goth look. A cutting-edge Chanel concept store illustrates the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Dive. For a breather between boutique-hopping, consider a Bellini with crab cakes on the picket-

fenced patio of The Ivy, where famous faces practically outnumber those of civilians.

FAIRFAX DISTRICT

Technically part of the city of Los Angeles, the Fairfax District is one of the most culturally diverse and artsy neighborhoods in the West Hollywood area. At Fairfax and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned multifaceted facility with more than 100,000 works from around the world. The Broad Contemporary Art Museum, designed by architect Renzo Piano, showcases art from the contemporary and modern eras, while the latest additions to the LACMA campus include the Lynda and Stewart Resnick Exhibition Pavilion and Ray’s & Stark Bar. Adjacent to LACMA is the Page Museum at the La Brea Tar Pits. Additional venues at this formidable Museum Row include the Petersen Automotive Museum and Craft & Folk Art Museum. South of the museums is a surprise for curious culinarians: a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where acclaimed Ethiopian restaurants are located. Be prepared to eat with your hands! One of the district’s anchors is the historic Farmers Market, with more than 100 open-air produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, taquería and stands with authentic Louisiana gumbo and Korean barbecue. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrian-only shopping center. The Grove has the character of an old-fashioned village square, with stained-glass street lamps and central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as J. Crew and Splendid are joined by eateries and restaurants. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of West Hollywood, see pages 108–109.

great find

PICTURE THIS It seems as if all the cool kids are toting Lomography analogue cameras, the inexpensive snappers that have inspired a million smartphone apps with the dynamic, saturated, vintage-esque results of their photos. The Lomography Gallery Store Los Angeles, the largest Lomography Gallery in the world, supports the burgeoning community of “Lomographers” by offering the brand’s cameras—such as the multi-lens, fish-eye, pinhole and classic Lomo LC-A+ models—plus accessories including 50-plus varieties of film as well as vintage refurbished Russian cameras. What’s more, the two-story location offers lounges, film processing services and workshops. With cameras starting at a mere $30, it’s easy to picture L.A. in a fresh way. 7998 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.301.1414, lomography.com

W La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd La Cienega BLvd

in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley Girl. For up-to-theminute fashion, check out the collections at Oliver Peoples or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. And after splurging for an outfit that’s all the rage in St. Barts, settle into one of several chic cafés, whose tables spill onto the sidewalk.

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3rdStre

Beverly Hills and the Farmers Market, WEST 3RD STREET is a shopping and dining experience unlike any other in Los Angeles. Each store and restaurant offers an exciting and unique vision, making West 3rd one of the most highquality and well-edited collections of merchandise and fine food anywhere in the city. Whether you are looking for fashion, furniture, gifts or food, chances are you will be inspired by what you find on West 3rd Street.

Handmade sterling silver and 14k gold jewelry cast from 19th-century wax seals rich in inspirational imagery.

PYrrHa

8315 West 3rd Street (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

Couture loungewear and pajamas designed by Renee Claire and made in L.A. Also featuring fine bedding and gifts.

BedHead PaJaMaS 8336 West 3rd Street (323) 653-8336 bedheadpjs.com

FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave FairFax ave

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WELCOME TO THIRD STREET!

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The Orlando on Third, a fashionable, boutique hotel in a vibrant, urban neighborhood. Enjoy a taste of living L.A.!

OrlandO HOtel 8384 West 3rd Street (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com

Contemporary childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing, toys and accessories.

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Edgy, yet high-end and delicate, this one-of-a-kind jewelry and accessories line is designed and handmade in L.A.

M. COHen

8362 West 3rd Street (323) 782-0600 mcohendesigns.com

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exploring

Hollywood

From left: The Frank Lloyd Wright-designed Hollyhock House; Hollywood Walk of Fame; carousel in Griffith Park in Los Feliz

Hollywood is reclaiming its legendary glamour, and once-bohemian Los Feliz and Silver Lake are sharing in Tinseltown’s new Golden Age.

“Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this part of Los Angeles was in the midst of its decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination. Amid a spirit of transformation, the neon lights on Hollywood Boulevard’s landmark movie palaces are fired up again, as waves of international visitors mingle with colorful locals. This new Golden Age of Hollywood marks the best time to visit in decades.

Hollywood + Highland

The Hollywood & Highland Center has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Kodak Theatre is the home of the Academy Awards and new Cirque du Soleil show Iris, which premiered in July. The center’s shops are varied, ranging from Lucky Brand to Louis Vuitton, and it boasts two nightclubs, the Highlands and Level 3. The central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign. Built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 50-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland.” Next door to Hollywood & Highland is Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, famous for its celebrity handprints embedded in the cement out front. The theater remains a favorite venue for Hollywood premieres.

SHOWTIME

Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s animated releases combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and kidpleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre—built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre has staged megahit musicals including Wicked, and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing headlining musicians.

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new in town The Bar at Cliff’s

Cocktail bar in a fashionably rustic space inside Cliff’s edge restaurant 3626 w. Sunset Blvd., Silver lake, 323.666.6116

Dekor

Scandinavian and american home décor designs and furnishings. 2145 w. Sunset Blvd., echo park, 213.375.7627

Papaya King

after 80 years, the new york restaurant selling hot dogs and tropical juices is duplicated on the west Coast. 1645 wilcox ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8799

Rebecca Minkoff

OPPOSITE AND THIS PAGE: IAN WHITE

The apparel and accessories designer opens her first boutique, a store-in-store at local favorite Confederacy. 4661 Hollywood Blvd., los feliz, 323.913.3040

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Griffith Observatory in Griffith Park

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Walk of Fame

The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath the feet of tourists, but the roster is not without its quirks—Pee-wee Herman has one but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is appropriately located in front of the Capitol Records Building, the structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

Museums, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE

Hollywood has its museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet, or even a T. rex skeleton. Next to Grauman’s Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends Clark Gable and Audrey Hepburn to contemporary icons such as Justin Timberlake and Lady Gaga. You can ponder some zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Records Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum offers bizarre exhibitions on double-headed animals and shrunken human heads. Serious movie buffs, however, head to the Hollywood Museum, which occupies four floors of the historic Max Factor Building. Among the 10,000 costumes and artifacts on display are Indiana Jones’ whip, Rocky Balboa’s boxing gloves and W.C. Fields’ top hat.

AROUND VINE

The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hol-

lywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences, which boasts Delphine brasserie and Drai’s rooftop club. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across the street is boutique hotel the Redbury and its stylish Middle Eastern restaurant, Cleo. Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where serious music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia. A couple of blocks west is the stylish mini-complex Space 15 Twenty, catering to shoppers well into the evening. The center is anchored by a supersize Urban Outfitters and complemented by other hip boutiques.

NIGHTCRAWLING

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its endless nightlife opportunities, and a lively bar and club scene permeates the district. On Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at library-themed Hemingway’s, or attempt to get past the velvet ropes at MyHouse and Supperclub. Cahuenga Boulevard also hosts dozens of clubs. Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to October. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. Nearby is the Ford Amphitheatre, featuring a more intimate environment for international music, dance and family fare.

LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE

These neighborhoods are among the bestkept secrets in the county. Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Newer lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. A once-forgotten stretch of Hollywood Boulevard in Los Feliz now hosts trendy boutiques such as Confederacy and restaurants including cult fave Umami Burger. Fully transformed is Silver Lake Boulevard, now crowded with eateries and upscale retailers. At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica Boulevards intersect and the eponymous music festival takes place every summer, is where Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea.

GRIFFITH PARK

The largest urban park in America, this sprawling swath is an ideal place to hike, picnic, golf, ride horses and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at the Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent filming location. The hike up Mount Hollywood (three miles round trip) provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the nearby Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also located in Griffith Park is the underrated Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens and the Western heritage-oriented Autry National Center, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see pages 109–110.

great find

LOCALLY GROWN The owners of ecoconscious The Little Seed aren’t kind to just the environment. Here in the colorful children’s boutique, shoppers are received like family. Operations director Taylor Nassauer explains, “Our customers are our neighbors and friends. We’ve seen moms come in when they were pregnant and watch[ed] their kids grow up.” The shop focuses on lifestyle products that are good to Mother Earth, such as toy trucks made of recycled milk jugs; other feel-good purchases include fair-trade candy. The colorfully printed clothes, all from the Little Seed’s private label, are manufactured locally with low-impact dyes. Visiting tots can stay occupied in the play area in the back, and music and arts-and-crafts lessons are offered during the week. 219 N. Larchmont Blvd., L.A., 323.462.4441, thelittleseed.com

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exploring

Downtown

From left: City Hall; signage in Grand Central Market; the Frank Gehry-designed Walt Disney Concert Hall

L.A.’s urban center reflects the cultural diversity, world-class architecture and dynamic commerce that makes the city a superstar on the international stage.

Beverly Hills and Venice Beach may be favorite tourist attractions, but downtown should not be overlooked. Historic art deco structures share the streetscape with glass- or titaniumclad masterpieces, and even movie stars are snapping up hip lofts carved out of turn-of-the-century structures. The city’s arts scene roars to life in downtown, a place where the usual image of L.A. as “laid-back” hardly applies.

Union Station

The ornate Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but Union Station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From Union Station, the hub of the Metro system, you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or the light rail Gold Line to Pasadena and Blue Line to Long Beach. From here, nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7, Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and you can jump on an Amtrak train for a scenic journey along the coast.

Grand Avenue + MUSIC CENTER

The heart of L.A.’s performing arts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of stages at The Music Center. The 3,200-seat Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to the Los Angeles Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest Music Center venue is architect Frank Gehry’s curvaceous, jaw-dropping Walt Disney Concert Hall, home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Its young music director, Gustavo Dudamel, exudes an energy that rivals the building’s audacious design. Also housed at Disney Hall, with a separate entrance around the corner, is REDCAT, which offers performance and visual arts productions. Patina offers elegant feasts inside Disney Hall.

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OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: SARAH HADLEY; IAN WHITE; ASHOK SINHA. THIS PAGE: IAN WHITE

new in town Chemline

Sustainable women’s clothing boutique featuring hip, underground design talent. 504 Chung King Court, Chinatown, 213.330.0446

Flying Pig Café

offshoot of the Flying pig truck serves asian and pacific rim-inspired eats. 141 S. Central ave., little tokyo, 213.621.0300

Silo Vodka Bar

interior illusions-designed bar with an “ice lounge”—a sleekly outfitted walk-in freezer—for vodka tasting. 221 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.891.1063

The Bradbury Building is an iconic example of Italian Renaissance Revival architecture

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DESCENDING BUNKER HILL

Steps from the Music Center is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), Southern California’s premier contemporary art museum. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent. Nearby Angels Knoll is a welcome patch of greenery amid the concrete jungle. Angels Flight, a vintage funicular that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, is billed as “The Shortest Railway in the World” (just 298 feet!); a ride costs 25 cents. At the foot of the hill, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, the tallest building west of the Mississippi. Across the street is the Los Angeles Public Library, an art deco masterpiece.

OLVERA STREET

The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is located here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering art and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is still just 9 cents.

HISTORIC DISTRICTS

Often overlooked by tourists is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces ablaze in neon. A few, such as the Orpheum Theatre, have been restored to their original grandeur. Historic structures are being converted into lofts; Johnny Depp owns a condo in Broadway’s Eastern Columbia Building. The Bradbury Building (304 S. Broadway), built in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street, from 4th to 7th streets, is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of hip bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes Las Perlas and Mignon.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS

Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center can still be experienced in its historic shopping districts, popular with bargain hunters. The Jewelry District draws shoppers to markets such as St. Vincent Jewelry Center (650 S. Hill St.), where 500 merchants offer gold, diamonds and baubles. In the neighboring Fashion District, 115 blocks centered around the California Market Center, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. And for an awesome array of produce and international foods, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. Many vendors here deal in cash only.

CHINATOWN

Chinatown remains a great destination for sampling dim sum or browsing for authentic clothing, tea or home furnishings. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple (750 Yale St.) and the Chinese American Museum. Pedestrian-oriented Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are now home to galleries and Mountain Bar, while Broadway boasts cool boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

LITTLE TOKYO

Little Tokyo is still a proud ethnic enclave, but it, too, is emerging as an up-and-coming hipster ’hood. The dining scene is popping, led by newer restaurants such as Aburiya

Toranoko, and you can still nibble on traditional sushi prepared by veteran chefs at Japanese Village Plaza. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek, glass-ensconced Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a Frank Gehry-renovated branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the historic Cathedral of Saint Vibiana, formerly home of the Los Angeles Archdiocese.

L.A. LIVE

The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project has been called the epicenter of the downtown renaissance. Staples Center, home to the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, hosts top pop acts, as does Nokia Theatre L.A. Live, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The adjoining Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and clubs— Katsuya, WP24 and The Conga Room, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with towering LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

EXPOSITION PARK

Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum. The sevenacre Exposition Park Rose Garden is legendary, and the Beaux-Arts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. Other attractions include the California African American Museum and California Science Center with its 3-D IMAX theater. The science center is also the future home of space shuttle Endeavour. Farther west of Exposition Park is the jazz and blues capital of Leimert Park; south is Watts, home of the Watts Towers. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of downtown, see page 109.

great find

LITTLE TOKYO’S LITTLE TREASURE Little Tokyo’s Japanese American National Museum, the largest museum of JapaneseAmerican history, works to promote understanding and appreciation of America’s ethnic and cultural diversity. The JANM Museum Store carries on that mission, offering distinctive, Japanese-influenced wares in the museum’s Pavilion Building. Peruse a carefully curated selection of products that celebrate Japanese American culture; think Angry Little Girls! comics, painted wooden kokeshi dolls and brightly colored origami paper kits. Also find kitchenware, artisanal crafts, books, videos, and jewelry and clothing items. Another great find? The museum’s Chado Tea Room, an upscale environment in which to enjoy Japanese-style afternoon tea. 369 E. 1st St., Little Tokyo, 213.625.0414, janmstore.com

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exploring

Pasadena

From left: The streets of Old Pasadena; Pasadena City Hall; Colorado Street Bridge

Pasadena, aka the Crown City, brings a blend of small-town charm and cosmopolitan energy. Eagle Rock, Glendale and the San Gabriel Valley are also worth discovering.

Just minutes from downtown via the historic Arroyo Seco Parkway or the Metro Gold Line train, Pasadena is no ordinary bedroom community. The Craftsman-style bungalows in its leafy neighborhoods hint of a world-renowned architectural heritage, and institutions such as the Tournament of Roses, Caltech and NASA’s Jet Propulsion Laboratory, nearby, give the community a gravitas far beyond its size. In neighboring San Gabriel Valley communities, additional treasures await.

Old Pasadena

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut Street and Del Mar Boulevard, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the once-neglected district contains restored buildings and the city’s trendiest boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through One Colorado, where an eclectic collection of restaurants have alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. A few steps east of Old Pasadena lies Paseo Colorado, an inviting shopping center with ArcLight Cinemas and upscale shops such as Brighton Collectibles, Coach and BCBG Max Azria lining garden promenades. A wide variety of dining options is offered at this mixeduse development, whose open-air design frames views of such historic structures as soaring Pasadena City Hall (100 N. Garfield Ave.), restored to its original Beaux-Arts grandeur.

Playhouse District

Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district is filled with upscale antique shops, boutiques and dining rooms with ornate façades. Also present is the Le Cordon Bleu-affiliated College of Culinary Arts, with a restaurant open to the public, and the famed Ice House comedy club. The neighboring Boston Court Performing Arts Center presents dramas and musicals. The pagoda-crowned Pacific Asia Museum features exotic

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new in town Goorin Bros. Hat Shop

High-end, family-owned millinery does vintage-inspired hats for men and women. 49 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.440.1895

Kings Row Gastropub

Old Pasadena pub with outdoor patio offers a menu full of guilty pleasures: bangers and mash, duck sliders, a Merguez sausage corn dog. 20 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.793.3010

Letters From L.A.

Lovingly curated boutique with independent womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clothing designers. 5022 Eagle Rock Blvd., Eagle Rock, 323.340.1546

Tender Greens

OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: AMY K. FELLOWS; EDWIN SANTIAGO; BJARNE G. JENSEN. THIS PAGE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

Popular fast-casual salad bar opens a new location. 621 E. Colorado Ave., Pasadena, 626.405.1511

The Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino

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decorative arts from every corner of Asia, and the Pasadena Museum of California Art celebrates Golden State painters and sculptors from 1850 to the present. Dining choices include Pie ’n Burger, a favorite Caltech dive, and Playhouse-adjacent Elements Kitchen. Just east of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. At the Commons and Burlington Arcade, charming boutiques are set around European-style courtyards. A drive farther south on Lake Avenue reveals the opulent, historic Langham, Huntington Hotel.

Orange Grove Boulevard

This wide boulevard, once called Millionaire’s Row, is still lined with splendid estates, including the former Wrigley Mansion, which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association and is open for tours. The immediate neighborhood features the legacy of architects Frank Lloyd Wright, Wallace Neff and Paul Williams. The genius of Greene & Greene, pioneers of the Arts & Crafts movement, is evident at the Gamble House, also open to the public. Just around the corner on Colorado Boulevard is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in America. The galleries at this small museum are filled with masterpieces from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and its repertory of Impressionist masters (Monet, Cézanne, van Gogh) is impressive. It also features extensive art from India and a tribute to Degas in a lovely sculpture garden.

SAN MARINO + SOUTH PASADENA

In the exclusive residential community of San Marino is the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens, one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here the beautifully restored Itali-

anate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington is packed with 18th- and 19thcentury art including Thomas Gainsborough’s Blue Boy and Sir Thomas Lawrence’s Pinkie. A library with 600,000 rare books and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than one dozen distinct botanical environments, re-creating native habitats from England, China and elsewhere. Tea service is offered in a cottage amid a formal rose garden. Directly south of Old Pasadena is the independent municipality of South Pasadena, a shady, tranquil community. The Mission West historic district, particularly Mission Street, is packed with antique shops, galleries and cafes. The town is particularly kid-friendly, thanks to adorable shops such as the Dinosaur Farm and Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a 1915 restored drugstore with a soda fountain.

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

Just west of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town that is reinventing itself as a hip neighborhood with an understated boho-chic vibe. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is suddenly lined with one trendy cafe after another, from Vietnamese to French to vegetarian—plus Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. Students from Occidental College, where a young Barack Obama studied, mingle with young couples who have snapped up the hillside real estate. On the other side of Eagle Rock is Glendale. In this, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County, office workers pour out of high-rises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, a buzzing open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Here style-savvy shoppers can find value at H&M or splurge at exclusive boutiques like Kate Spade. It’s a great place for a movie followed by an alfresco snack from Crumbs

Bake Shop or sushi and cocktails at the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya. The Glendale Galleria shopping center is adjacent. Glendale’s diverse population—it’s home to one of the largest Armenian communities in America—provides plenty of flavor, including elaborate restaurants. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre (216 N. Brand Blvd.), an art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Just north of downtown Glendale is the delightful community of Montrose, with its homespun shops and all-American diners. Nearby is sprawling Descanso Gardens, home to North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when fully in bloom during January and February.

SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

Kissing Pasadena’s eastern border is Sierra Madre, a quaint community that refuses to be paved over. Arcadia is home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred horse racing venues in the world. Adjacent to the racetrack is Westfield Santa Anita, an ever-expanding shopping center. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanical Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peafowl; you might see a flock crossing nearby streets. The 1771 San Gabriel Mission is a notable landmark in the neighboring city of San Gabriel. The San Gabriel Valley cities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Alhambra and Monterey Park have drawn large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants in recent decades, and some of the best Chinese restaurants in America are found here, including Hong Kong-style seafood houses that are great fun for dim sum brunches. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 110.

great find Les macarons sont délicieux, and none are more délicieux than those of ‘Lette, the Beverly Hills macaron shop that delights with its colorful, freshly baked specialties and eye-catching, minimalist contemporary design. Following the success of the Beverly Hills location, owner and macaron enthusiast Paulette Koumetz has opened another branch in Old Town Pasadena featuring pastry chef Christophe Michalak’s take on the French confection. Offered every day are 12 classics—notably salted caramel, Colombian coffee and violet cassis—plus seasonal specialties including lychee and passion fruit. Bonus: ‘Lette’s macarons are certified kosher dairy. Oui, oui! 14 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.5551, lettemacarons.com

Tina Rupp

‘LETTE THEM EAT MACARONS

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ust 15 minutes from downtown Los Angeles, and conveniently

situated along the Metro Gold Line, Old Pasadena is a vibrant hub of world-class shopping, dining, arts, and entertainment. Comprised of 22 blocks of nationally-registered historic architecture, Old Pasadena is widely recognized as a premier destination and one of the few truly walkable urban districts in California.

m Sto

Come explore more than 300 specialty boutiques, exclusive retailers, sidewalk cafés, and fine restaurants in this authentic main street experience.

A contemporary cabinet of curiosities with a museum perspective on current artists, jewelers, and designers.

LA Times Reader’s Choice 2011: Best Indian. Generations of culinary tradition presented by gracious servers amid tasteful décor.

More than 400 wines – 70 available by the glass – and an array of intriguing flight options, to be paired with seasonal American Bistro fare.

Gold Bug

Akbar Cuisine of India

Vertical Wine Bistro

22 E. Union St. 626.744.9963 goldbugpasadena.com

44 N. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.577.9916 akbarcuisineofindia.com

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70 N. Raymond Ave. 626.795.3999 verticalwinebistro.com

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ns, re.

‘lette offers a variety of delicious French macarons—the perfect gift for any occasion. Stop by and experience la passion du macaron.

Dine or drink in Old Pasadena’s only gastropub, a brick-clad historic landmark with patio bar and beer garden.

Shopping fun at this high-end designer resale store, that offers the best of recent and vintage Chanel, LV, Prada and more!

' lette

Kings Row Gastropub

Clothes Heaven

14 S. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.793.5551 lettemacarons.com

20 E. Colorado Blvd. 626.793.3010 kingsrowpub.com

111 E. Union St. 626.440.0929 clothesheaven.com

The perfect place for a cocktail and a movie – the premium movie-going experience with world-class comfort, service, and selection.

An eclectic blend of fresh ingredients and creative eats, in a cool, hip scene, where ‘the art of eating healthy’ is the order of the day!

Delicious all-natural soaps and scrubs handmade from scratch in the onsite kitchen, using refined, age-old methods.

Gold Class Cinemas

Pita Jungle

The Soap Kitchen

43 E. Colorado Blvd. 626.432.7482 pitajungle.com

43 N. Fair Oaks Ave. 626.396.9996 thesoapkitchen.com

One Colorado, 42 Miller Alley 626.639.2260 goldclasscinemas.com

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EXPLORING

The Valley

The San Fernando Valley, aka “the other side of the hill,” celebrates the Hollywood spirit. lywood Way, offers cafés, antique shops and boutiques including Encore Nouveau and the Magnolia Commons, where new designs share shelf space with vintage pieces. There’s as much Hollywood going on here as in Hollywood itself, thanks to the presence of several studios. Warner Bros. Studios and NBC Studios offer back-lot tours, and all of the studios recruit audience members for tapings of sitcoms and talk shows. Audiences Unlimited is among the ticketing agencies offering free tickets to tapings. If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for the milder, uncongested Bob Hope Airport.

NORTH HOLLYWOOD

The Valley is a sprawling collection of bedroom communities whose population approaches 2 million. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge. Universal Studios Hollywood and Universal CityWalk hug a hillside above the Hollywood Freeway, marking the southeastern gateway to the Valley.

UNIVERSAL CITY

Just a couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment industry outpost. Universal Studios Hollywood offers a behind-the-scenes peek into movie-making and high-tech action rides such as King Kong 360 3-D. Make like Brad and Angelina and spring for Universal’s VIP Experience, in which guests are pampered like the stars. Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only, admission-free Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFLY Hollywood, an exhilarating wind tunnel, mechanical bull riding at Saddle Ranch Chop House and stand-up performances at Jon Lovitz Comedy Club. Boutiques such as Abercrombie & Fitch and Lush Cosmetics will loosen your wallet before you take in a show at the neighboring Gibson Amphitheatre.

BURBANK

The “beautiful downtown Burbank” that Johnny Carson used to poke fun at has grown up into a cosmopolitan hub. Burbank Town Center (201 E. Magnolia Blvd.) offers a major mall shopping experience, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel with hip shops and trendy bistros such as Granville Café. Magnolia Park, a quaint commercial district centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hol-

VENTURA BOULEVARD

This palm-lined boulevard that stretches 20 miles from one end of the San Fernando Valley to the other has been immortalized in music by the Everly Brothers, Frank Zappa and Tom Petty. In Studio City, it’s lined with an eclectic mix of eateries, including entertainment industry-favored Art’s Deli and more acclaimed sushi bars (Sushi Nozawa, Katsu-ya, Asanebo) than Little Tokyo. For shopping, there are hip boutiques such as Mimi & Hy and the stylish retreat Belle Visage Day Spa. Celebrities treasure the Valley’s more family-oriented lifestyle. Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros and shops such as Belle Gray, owned by actress Lisa Rinna. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Bloomingdale’s and featuring Betsey Johnson, Zara and In Add Minus boutiques in a particularly pleasant, upscale environment.

DEEP IN THE VALLEY

Warner Center is a high-rise mixed-use development in Woodland Hills, and the neighboring Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton, Jimmy Choo, Cartier and Hugo Boss. Farther westbound on the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for elbow room. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons Hotel. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5), coaster enthusiasts go to Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 110.

RICK MEYER

AMC Walkway in Burbank

North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. Dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With the addition of new restaurants such as the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub, the momentum continues. From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway, or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the San Fernando Valley.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISEMENT

Welcome to

Another Broken Egg Café

250 E. Olive Ave.; 818.563.3344 anotherbrokenegg.com More than 130 sunrise favorites including, smothered croissants, specialty sandwiches, gourmet pancakes and waffles. Another Broken Egg Café is as delightful as that first sip of morning coffee.

Mindfulnest and KleanSpa

3319 W. Magnolia Blvd.; 818.840.0123 mindfulnest.net A two-in-one emporium of fashionable gifts with a conscience. This boutique offers a contemporary artisan gallery with scent-indulgent products, body scrubs and perfume oils for mind and soul.

Burbank Town Center

201 E. Magnolia Blvd.; 818.566.8556 burbanktowncenter.com This 1.2 million sq. ft. shopping mecca features 140 shopping, entertainment and dining options including Coach, IKEA, Macy’s, Ashley Furniture, California Pizza Kitchen, and PF Chang’s among many more.

BURBANK Home to some of the biggest movie and television studios in the world, Burbank is a prime spot to watch a taping, take a studio tour or rub shoulders with celebrities. A magnet for shopping and dining with an endless variety of boutiques, cafes, and attractions... Burbank has it all...come see what all the buzz is about and EXPLORE, UNWIND and DINE with us!

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The Colony Theatre Company

555 N. Third St.; 818.558.7000 colonytheatre.org/main.html Named “LA’s Best Live Theatre” by the LA Daily News, this spacious yet intimate facility features stadium seating with a clear view from every seat. Walking distance from many restaurants and free parking.

audrey * k

3414 W .Magnolia Blvd.; 818.558.1733 audreyk.com audrey * k fuses modern and vintage styles in a sophisticated and flattering way. Fashions are eclectic and pleasing, and bring individuality to anyone seeking freshness and innovation in their wardrobe.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISEMENT

Warner Bros. Studio VIP Tour

3400 Riverside Dr.; 818.972.8687 vipstudiotour.warnerbros.com Get a close-up look at the real working Hollywood on the renowned Warner Bros. Studios VIP Tour. You’ll be transported behind the scenes of the world’s busiest motion picture and television studio, where today’s hottest shows including “The Big Bang Theory,” “The Mentalist,” and “Chuck” are filmed.

Bob’s Big Boy

4211 West Riverside Dr.; 818.843.9334 bigboy.com Home of the original and oldest Bob’s Big Boy in America. Get retro-ed out at the 50’s carhop every Friday night, and bite down on a legendary “Big Boy,” the original doubledecker hamburger.

Unwind

818 N. Hollywood Way; 818.840.0800 unwindyarn.com Join an inspired community of knitters and crotchetiers and let your creativity flow. You’ll be seduced by the warm and inviting atmosphere. Discover why devotees consider Unwind to be the best yarn shop around.

AMC- 16

125 Palm Ave.; 888.262.4386 amctheatres.com/Burbank/ One of the top grossing theaters in the U.S., Downtown Burbank’s flagship AMC-16 is a mecca for the discerning moviegoer. With frequent premieres and special screenings, it’s a great place to rub shoulders with the stars.

DeBell Golf Club

1500 E. Walnut Ave.; 818.845.0022 debellgolf.com Nestled in the canyons above Burbank lies the DeBell Golf Club complete with a par 3 and regulation 18-hole course. Voted “Best Bargain for a Top Course” by Golf Link, the club offers a golf shop and clubhouse dining. The Clubhouse Grill with a patio overlooking the greens is a great place to relax amid beautiful natural surroundings.

Flappers Comedy Club

102 E. Magnolia Blvd.; 818.845.9721 flapperscomedy.com Laughter abounds at Flappers Comedy Club with a party atmosphere of food, drink and general merriment. Sizzling cuisine and intense cocktails pair-up with first-rate comedic performances in three dining and show areas. The main room seats 225 and features headliners from around the country. There’s also the Yoo Hoo Room with 60 seats and Bar and Patio each with a small stage and space for 60.

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exploring

South Bay

From left: The Korean Bell of Friendship in San Pedro; Shoreline Village in Long Beach; Maison Riz restaurant on Redondo Beach Pier

The South Bay’s beaches and harbors are actionpacked, but the living is easy. Look for ocean-view dining, mom-andpop shops and seaside attractions.

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch renowned for surfing, volleyball and expensive real estate. Farther south beckon the rugged bluffs of the Palos Verdes peninsula, and beyond them, the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach. Longing for a laid-back vibe? Scenic beaches? Premier shopping and dining? Outdoor adventure? You’ll find all of them here and more.

Manhattan Beach

Nineteen miles southwest of downtown Los Angeles, Manhattan Beach boasts two miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers from Waikiki Beach in Honolulu imported it in the 1920s. One of the more affluent cities in the county, Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You may spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. At the end of the 928-foot-long Manhattan Beach Pier, the Roundhouse Aquarium delights with touch tanks and terrifies with a lifesize replica of a great white shark. The pier features bronze plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is die-hard beach volleyball country. It’s also a playground for water-sports enthusiasts, including boogie-boarders and surfers who congregate near the pier. East of the pier, casual cafes, laid-back bars and upscale boutiques radiate from the intersection of Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue. Metlox Plaza is a popular gathering spot, with such shops as Wright’s Baby and the Beehive and hot spots such as Zinc at the Shade Hotel.

Hermosa Beach

Heading south on Manhattan Avenue brings you to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics of Manhattan Beach, including a scenic twomile stretch of beachfront punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the

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Strand (here merged with the bike path), and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at Pier Avenue west of Hermosa Avenue becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from hopping bars and restaurants. Beyond Pier Plaza to the south, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club with Sunday night shows. To the plaza’s east, the ecofriendly cafe/boutique Gum Tree is a standout among the specialty shops and bistros that line Pier Avenue. Across the street, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear apropos for the town’s reigning pastimes.

opposite: korean bell of friendship and shoreline village, bjarne g. jensen; maison riz, edwin santiago

Redondo Beach

The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring two miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here, you’ll find businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offering recreational fishing excursions and whale-watching tours, while other local outfitters rent kayaks, paddle boats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier has had its ups and downs, but it keeps rising from the ashes to attract locals and visitors to quick eats, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow beach of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants

and specialty boutiques such as Lisa Z. covering a six-block radius.

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA

Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Hugging the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West brings you to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a marine museum and popular gray-whale-watching site during the annual northbound migration. Eight miles inland on Crenshaw Boulevard sprawls the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden in tony Palos Verdes Estates. Just beyond the interpretive center on Palos Verdes Drive West is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Lloyd Wright, son of Frank. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue. Golfers, take note: The Mediterraneanstyle Terranea Resort, just south of the chapel, has a public nine-hole course. A couple of miles south, the 18-hole public golf course at Trump National Golf Club is top-ranked.

SAN PEDRO

The multicultural city of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today, it’s home to the Port of Los Angeles, a major container port that also serves travelers on the Catalina Express and more than 1 million cruise passengers annually. From the port’s World Cruise Center, a vintage trolley takes visitors downtown to the waterfront restaurants and shops of the New England-style Ports O’ Call Village, and then to the marina, part of the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex. The complex includes a historic bathhouse and the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium,

located next to Cabrillo Beach. Windsurfers of all abilities congregate here, with outfitters including Captain Kirk’s (525 N. Harbor Blvd.) offering rentals and lessons.

LONG BEACH

Covering 50 square miles in the southwest corner of L.A. County, Long Beach boasts a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than five miles of beaches. Among its most popular draws is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, an historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. Alongside it is the Cold War-era Russian Foxtrot Submarine. The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center and the Pike at Rainbow Harbor entertainment complex are nearby, as is the Aquarium of the Pacific and the familyfriendly Shoreline Village. From the village, you can rent bicycles and follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles along the water, passing the Long Beach Museum of Art. The path ends at the tony Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find restaurants and shops along 2nd street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier, windsurfing and kite-surfing lessons, and even gondola rides through the canals of Naples, a neighborhood situated on islands in Alamitos Bay. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage furniture and clothing shops such as the Vintage Collective make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway, while farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art. For bold items, see listings in the where guide. For a detailed map of these neighborhoods, see page 109.

great find

GOO-GOO, GA-GA FOR GREEN Move over, pink and blue: The hottest hue for babies is a modern shade of green. Bloume Baby in Manhattan Beach caters to the discerning zero-to-4-years-old crowd with earthfriendly toys, clothing, furniture and bedding from lines including Plan, Coccoli and Dwell Studio. Wee ones appreciate the soft knits and graphic prints, while parents are drawn to the focus on sustainable, nontoxic materials. Plus, welcome news for style-savvy mommas: Owner Annie Totten doesn’t compromise on good design while adhering to her “healthy and pure” philosophy. Versatile picks such as the Oeuf mini-library, crafted of sustainable woods and with a water-based finish, are so chic and modern you just may co-opt them for your own crib. 1300 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.802.8000, bloumebaby.com

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DESTINATION:

DINING NOT ALL THE GREAT RESTAURANTS ARE IN BEVERLY HILLS. CONSIDER EXPLORING AN UNFAMILIAR NEIGHBORHOOD.

ALExANDRA MARLIN

BY ROGER GRODY

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Communities such as Beverly Hills, West Hollywood and Santa Monica are loaded with acclaimed restaurants serving every imaginable cuisine. Other neighborhoods—those past their prime or yet to be awakened from a decades-long slumber—are viewed as desolate culinary backwaters until some pioneering restaurateurs arrive, attracted by modest rents and a dearth of competition. It’s well worth exploring these relatively undiscovered areas of L.A., just as their renaissances take shape.

North Hollywood has never been one of L.A.’s premier neighborhoods, but the NoHo Arts District brought the community to life and gave the working-class enclave a Hollywood luster with a couple of dozen theaters, plus galleries and boutiques. At nearby Toluca Lake’s Firenze Osteria, popular Top Chef personality Fabio Viviani cooks some pretty respectable Italian fare—for instance, pancetta-wrapped shrimp stuffed with Gorgonzola followed by gnocchi or ossobuco—in a handsome, dimly lit room with a lively bar. The Federal Bar, housed in a historic bank building, recently joined L.A.’s growing ranks of gastropubs, and the concept (which includes entertainment upstairs) seems a perfect fit for NoHo. Vintage lighting, tin-stamped ceilings and secluded alcove booths generate a cool pre-Prohibition vibe, and the Fed’s wide-ranging menu reads like a hit parade of pub classics—but with some innovative twists. The quality of the burger tells you more about a gastropub than anything else, and on that basis, the Federal Bar rises to the occasion. Its standard issue, the Federal, is layered with garlic chips, aged cheddar, romaine lettuce and balsamic onions, stuffed into a soft brioche bun. For a Greco-Mediterranean twist, the kitchen turns out a lamb burger topped with feta, parsley, tomato, olives and tzatziki in a rosemary bun. Wild Turkey cuts the sweet glaze of some very addictive meatballs, and L.A.-brewed Nibble Bit Tabby ale goes into the batter of fish and chips that arrive with a malt aïoli. These items can be paired with a hand-crafted beer from an eclectic list of domestic appellations extending from Chicago to Cooperstown, New York. For dessert, consider a trio of cupcakes or a chocolate milkshake spiked with cayenne pepper. Little Tokyo hasn’t been limited to sushi and yakitori for many years, with French, Korean and Cuban eateries popping up from time to time. But now the neighborhood is developing into a sizzling hot dining destination. At Lazy Ox Canteen, dishes such as tomatilloaccented braised rabbit leg, seared beef tongue with pickled fennel, and a terrific burger are offered by acclaimed chef Josef Centeno, who cooks with a fun-loving, globe-trotting attitude. The cuisine is often daring and sophisticated, but the casual, noisy setting is totally unpretentious. The same owners have debuted an izakaya (the Japanese equivalent of a gastropub) called Aburiya Toranoko, right next door. The funky, artsy graffiti-tagged interior is billed as sort of a Big Apple-Little Tokyo hybrid, and Toranoko offers jellyfish and natto (a fermented soybean delicacy that is definitely an acquired taste), fried chicken and tempura shrimp on a wide-ranging menu that pleases Japanese expats and Midwesterners who weren’t sure they liked Japanese food. The latest Little Tokyo entry is Flying Pig Café, a brick-and-mortar restaurant inspired by the food truck of the same name. Here, you can start with escargots or duck confit mac and cheese before moving on to marinated short ribs or fresh uni spaghetti. And for truly passionate pork-o-philes, a party of six can work their way through

an entire pork butt with mango shrimp. (Twenty-four hours’ notice is required to prepare the dish.) In the shadows of downtown L.A. is Echo Park, a neighborhood that was beginning to be discovered by bargain-hunting young professionals during the most recent real estate boom. Reflecting the area’s gradual gentrification are restaurants such as The Park, where former Bay Area chef Joshua Siegel turns out ricotta-stuffed squash blossoms, cumin-crusted pork belly and Savoy cabbage-wrapped salmon in an unfussy but charming dining room with an indoor lamppost, close to Dodger Stadium. Health-conscious Elf Café serves up creative, fun dishes such as vegan fondue (in a walnut-romesco dip), Moroccan vegetable tagine and a lemon-scented vegan risotto. Down the street, India occasionally borders Mexico at Cowboys & Turbans, which offers mango-chicken naan pizzas and Bombay Burritos (a riff on frankies, a street food sold on the beaches of Mumbai) stuffed with curried shrimp or chicken masala. The Echo Park standby continues to be Taix, offering respectable renditions of unfussy French favorites such as duck a l’orange and blanquette de veau. It has been going strong for the better part of a century, with no end in sight. Note to oenophiles: Taix has one of the most underrated and underpriced wine lists in all of L.A. In terms of dining, Studio City is best known for a concentration of upscale sushi bars that outshines Little Tokyo. Modest-looking restaurants such as Katsu-ya and Sushi Nozawa prove that some truly great cuisine can be found in a Ventura Boulevard minimall. The best of the bunch may be Asanebo, where an omakase represents an unforgettable dining experience. Nonetheless, the Studio City dining scene was beginning to get a bit stale in recent years, which makes recent developments so encouraging. It may be “on the other side of the hill,” as they like to say on the Westside, but hipsters are now congregating at Black Market Liquor Bar, an edgy place that feels more Hollywood

Opposite, clockwise from right: Rustic tables at M.B. Post in Manhattan Beach; the sushi bar at Aburiya Toranoko in Little Tokyo; diners at the Park in Echo Park; spicy black mussels from Little Tokyo’s Flying Pig Café. Left: The Federal Bar in North Hollywood tempts with its overstuffed signature burger, the Federal.

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the Valley a much-needed hint of elegance. Pacific Palisades is hardly a neighborhood that wants for anything. Its views are the equal to those of Malibu, and it’s got the celebrities without the paparazzi. But a dining capital it has never been, as residents are apparently content to head down Pacific Coast Highway to Santa Monica, leaving all the traffic and congestion to the more cosmopolitan community to its south. However, the locals have welcomed the arrival of Maison Giraud, a new bakery/bistro from Alain Giraud, the affable chef who previously won acclaim at elegant Bastide in West Hollywood before cooking at Santa Monica’s Anisette Brasserie. His new Palisades outpost is perfect for a pain au chocolat and café au lait in the morning or a jambon beurre sandwich, made with a house-baked baguette, at lunch. In the evening, a light seasonal market cuisine may include roasted MediterAbove: Yuzuaccented sashimi ranean sea bass with clams, chorizo and asparagus. from MichelinThe beach communities (Manhattan Beach, Hermorecognized Asanebo in Studio City, sa Beach and Redondo Beach) have never had a shortwhere acclaimed age of places to eat, but are overweighted in standardsushi bars draw diners from issue seafood restaurants and chain steakhouses. across the county. (There are, however, some exceptional sushi bars in quiet, neighboring Torrance.) In general, the region has Left: Diners go to Little Tokyo not been taken seriously by prominent chefs, despite neighborhood the presence of a willing, affluent clientele that would staple Lazy Ox Canteen for prefer not to drive up the 405 for dinner. unpretentious That may be changing now that David LeFevre, dishes of global gastropub fare. the Charlie Trotter protégé who cooked at downtown’s Water Grill for six years, has set up his own kitchen in Manhattan Beach. Given the laid-back environment of this four-square mile city, M.B. Post is intended to be Studio City’s Raphael debuted two years ago, but just recently as lively and relaxed as the Water Grill is sedate and buttoned-up. brought in former Saddle Peak Lodge chef Adam Horton, one of Dishes such as chilled English pea soup with a swirl of crème fraîche, L.A.’s top young talents, to execute a globally inspired menu. His Australian hiramasa (yellowtail) sashimi with avocado and puffed elegantly plated starters include a version of insalata panzanella with forbidden rice, and wood-grilled sword squid with grapes are clean, crispy pork belly, along with steak tartare or caramelized diver scalintelligently conceived dishes offered at reasonable prices. LeFevre’s lops in a silky uni sauce, followed by an Asian-inspired roasted duck buttermilk fried chicken with lemon-rosemary Ranch dressing proves or gnocchi in luxurious morel cream. This is another small, intimate that his talents transcend seafood. dining room, but features high-end contemporary finishes that give

EXPLORING The NEIGHBORHOODS

Aburiya Toranoko 243 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.621.9500 Asanebo 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 Black Market Liquor Bar 11915 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.446.2533 Cowboys & Turbans 2815 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.483.7778 Elf Café 2135 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.484.6829 The Federal Bar 5303 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, 818.980.2555 Firenze Osteria 4212 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, 818.760.7081 Flying Pig Café 141 S. Central Ave., Little Tokyo, 213.621.0300 Katsu-ya 11680 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.6976 Lazy Ox Canteen 241 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.626.5299 Maison Giraud 1032 Swarthmore Ave., Pacific Palisades, 310.459.7561 Manhattan Beach Post 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 Ombra 3737 Cahuenga Blvd. W., Studio City, 818.985.7337 The Park 1400 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.482.9209 Raphael 11616 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.505.3337 Sushi Nozawa 11288 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.508.7017 Taix 1911 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.484.1265

lazy ox canteen: amy k. fellows

than San Fernando Valley. The new restaurant/lounge occupies a space vacated by a long-running neighborhood bistro, as one generation of diners passes the baton to another. The mixology rocks with cocktails such as the City Fizz (gin, lime, cucumber, mint and suddenly trendy absinthe), and there’s also a nice list of craft beers that pair well with an alligator frank, deviled quail eggs, soft shell crab po’ boy sandwich or a bowl of mussels steamed in a ginger-infused, bread-moppable broth. Antonia Lofaso, one of a dozen Top Chef alums cooking in L.A., runs the kitchen at this new Valley hot spot. Another notable newcomer to the neighborhood is Ombra, in the shadows of Universal Studios. Here, chef/ owner Michael Young, a Valley native who cooked at Valentino and Drago, has created a warm, contemporary space for his progressive brand of Italian cuisine. His balance of tradition and innovation results in an unassuming sophistication. Young also borrows some Spanish concepts that appear in dishes such as potato croquettes stuffed with quince paste, or octopus with potatoes. His casunziei (beet-stuffed pasta with poppy seeds) is a good version of this northeastern Italian specialty, and additional cross-cultural influences enter into dishes such as albacore tuna kebabs drizzled in Sicilian herb vinaigrette. Young also prepares a marzipan-intensive tricolore cake—a stellar take on an old-school classic from New York’s Little Italy—for dessert.

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Dining SPOTLIGHT

American

Guidelines

a/k/a an american bistro New. Menu inspired by California wine country cuisine; 40 wines by the glass. Emphasis on house-made and house-cured ingredients in dishes such as PEI mussels with smoked Manila clams and chorizo. L, D (daily). One Colorado, 41 Hugus Alley, Pasadena, 626.564.8111 $$ Map Q19

Index

ANIMAL Bare-bones eatery, from the guys known as the “Two Dudes” to Food Network fans, is a carnivore’s dream. Think delectable takes on offal (like crispy pig’s ear) and a bacon-chocolate crunch bar for dessert. D (nightly). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 Blvd Beverly Wilshire Hotel combines contemporary design, chandelier elegance and sumptuous menu. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.275.5200 $$$ Map J11 charlie’s Chophouse fare, upscale pizzas, seafood and pastas in a dining room/lounge with leopard-print décor. L (M–F), D (nightly). 22821 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.3231 $$$$ Map east of A1

Poquito de Picca Chef Ricardo Zarate, best known for his Peruvian eatery Mo-Chica and recently proclaimed Best New Chef by Food & Wine magazine, dips into flavors of Peru once again with Picca. In a casual, contemporary cantina, a menu of shareable small plates begins with appetizers such as chicken chicharrónes with salsa criolla and steamed mussels with pancetta and aji amarillo butter, and moves on to a list of “causa sushi,” Zarate’s take on sushi that features potato topped with raw seafood. There are also numerous ceviches, tiraditos, anticuchos of meats and seafood, and other specialties including quinoa-pumpkin stew and Peruvian paella with sea urchin sauce. (Churros are pictured.) p. 76

CRAFT Tom Colicchio, a star of Bravo’s Top Chef, brings his wildly popular New American restaurants to Century City. More affordable small plates at Craftbar. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 Hard Rock Cafe Pulled-pork sandwich; twisted mac, chicken & cheese; apple cobbler amid rock memorabilia. L, D (daily). Universal CityWalk, 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.622.7625; Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.7625 $$ Map U19, H13 IVY RESTAURANT Entertainment industry hang heavy on pastas and seafood. Robertson Boulevard restaurant is paparazzi central. L.A.: L, D (daily); Ivy at the Shore: B, L, D (daily), Br (Su). 113 N. Robertson Blvd., L.A., 310.274.8303; Ivy at the Shore, 1535 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.3113 $$$ Map I11, L8 Jar Chef Suzanne Tracht offers nouvelle American comfort food—she’s known for her steaks and pot roast—in updated chophouse setting. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8225 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6566 $$$ Map I12 Joan’s on Third Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups, sweets plus picnic baskets, gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285 $ Map I12 KATE MANTILINI Designer comfort cuisine reigns at this slick, clubby standby. Late-night menu. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa-Su); Woodland Hills: L (M–F), D (nightly). 9101 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.278.3699; 5921 Owensmouth Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.348.1095 $$ Map J12, west of A1 LAMILL COFFEE BOUTIQUe Coffee aficionados come for whimsical bites from chef Michael Cimarusti paired with namesake artisanal brews in a petite swanky space in designer living room–style setting. B, L, D (daily). 1636 Silverlake Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.663.4441 $$ Map W23 m.b. post New. Small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, cured meats and more in space of a former post office. “Eat Your Vegetables” menu makes green beans, brussel sprouts and cauliflower look tantalizing. D (nightly). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 Musso & Frank Grill Hollywood’s oldest (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes, lobster Thermidor and Welsh rarebit with the martini; legend has it that this place invented

Restaurants are listed by city on page 88. Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 107–110. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

American............................... 68 Breweries/Gastropubs..... 70 British...................................... 70 California................................ 70 Chinese................................... 70 Clubs/Supper Clubs...........71 Eclectic/Fusion......................71 French.......................................72 Indian........................................72 Italian........................................72

Japanese.................................73 Korean......................................75 Mediterranean......................75 Mexican/Latin......................76 Pan-Asian...............................76 Quick Bites.............................77 Seafood....................................78 Spanish....................................78 Steak.........................................78 Thai............................................78

the drink. B, L, D (Tu–Sa). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$ Map H13 Noé Neo bistro fare with a Japanese spin (calamari with yuzu crème fraiche, chicken katsu sliders) near Walt Disney Concert Hall. D (nightly). Omni Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.356.4100 $$ Map H16 rolling stone restaurant & lounge New. Magazine’s restaurant concept offers rock ‘n’ roll ambience and upscale comfort fare. Lounge with DJ and small plates. Open until 2 am (F–Sa). L, D (daily). Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.4000 $$ Map H13 the royce Chef David Feau does molecular gastronomy and unconventional flavor combinations: lobster and pomegranate “hot and snow,” venison and lychee compote, porcini casserole with pear. D (Tu–Sa). The Langham Huntington Hotel, 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6410 $$$$ Map S20 Saddle Peak Lodge Haute game in unexpectedly romantic, hunting lodge–style space with moose heads and nudes. Br (Su), D (W–Su). 419 Cold Canyon Road, Calabasas, 818.222.3888 $$$$ Map northwest of A1 savory Excellent seafood and seasonal French-tinged fare in an elegantly minimalist dining room. D (Tu– Su). 29169 Heathercliff Road, Malibu, 310.589.8997 $$$ Map west of A1 Simon L.A. “Rock ‘n’ roll chef” Kerry Simon is at the Sofitel. A signature dish: the Junk Food Platter with house-made Rice Krispies Treats, Sno Balls, cotton candy and more. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.358.3979 $$$ Map I12 true food kitchen Restaurant at Santa Monica Place offers health-conscious menu inspired by Dr. Andrew Weil’s diet principles. Several vegan and glutenfree options. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.593.8300 $ Map M8 umami burger Hot specialty burger joint; try the signature Umami Burger with tempura onion rings. (No alcohol served at La Brea Avenue location.) L, D (daily). 4655 Hollywood Blvd., Los Feliz, 323.669.3922; 1520 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.3100; Fred Segal, 500 Broadway, 310.451.1300; 850 S. La Brea Ave., 323.931.3000; 12159 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.286.9004 $ Map W22, H14, L8, J13, A2 vertical wine bistro Seventy wines by the glass, 650 on the list. New American menu plus fun small plates, cheeses and charcuterie. D (Tu–Su). 70 N. Raymond Ave. (upstairs), Pasadena, 626.795.3999 $$$ Map Q19

Sorry, McDonald’s! In-N-Out Burger, opened by Harry and Esther Snyder in Baldwin Park in 1948, takes credit for being California’s first drive-through hamburger stand. p. 77

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Dining (daily), high tea (Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

California Cuisine AKASHA An ode to all things organic, plus thoughtful vegan and vegetarian options, in an industrial-cool dining room. B (M–Sa), L (M–F), D (nightly). 9543 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.845.1700 $$ Map L11 BREEZE Creative “grill cuisine,” plus sushi bar. Fabulous desserts; distinctive décor. Reservation recommended. B, L, D (daily). Hyatt Regency Century Plaza Hotel & Spa, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.551.3334 $$$ Map J11

Jamón iberico and figs at Fig & Olive on Melrose Place

THE WAFFLE Coffee shop offers inventive twists on comfort cuisine, including a dozen versions of the namesake dish. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 6255 W. Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.465.6901 $$ Map H14 XIV Michael Mina’s opulent 14th restaurant has a fun, funky, fine menu: small bites like a trio of fries sprinkled with harissa, cheddar and entrees such as tapiocacrusted Thai snapper. D (W–Sa). 8117 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.1414 $$$$ Map H12

Breweries/Gastropubs FATHER’S OFFICE Microbrew mecca; one of L.A.’s best burgers. Santa Monica: L (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Culver City: L (F–Su), D (nightly). 1018 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.393.2337; Father’s Office 2, 3229 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.736.2224 $$ Map L8, L11 FORD’S FILLING STATION Gastropub from chef Benjamin Ford, son of Harrison. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 9531 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.1470 $$ Map L11 KINGS ROW GASTROPUB New. Pub staples like shepherd’s pie get a gourmet update; plus creative fusion dishes (duck confit bánh mì). Br (Su), L (Th– Sa), D (nightly). 20 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.793.3010 $$ Map Q19 LAZY OX CANTEEN Relaxed neighborhood hot spot. Crispy pig ear chicharrónes with lime, ricotta fritters, plus laundry list of daily specials. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (daily). 241 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.626.5299 $$ Map H17

CHAYA Franco-Asian fare, ambience draw the beautiful people and their agents. L (M–F), D (nightly). Beverly Hills, Venice: L (M–F), D (nightly). 8741 Alden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8833; 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.236.9577; 110 Navy St., Venice, 310.396.1179 $$ Map I11, H16, M8 CHINOIS ON MAIN Arguably Wolfgang Puck’s most innovative restaurant. East meets West in (noisy) culinary explosion. Reservations required. L (W–F), D (nightly). 2709 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.9025 $$$ Map M8 EVA RESTAURANT Patina Group alum Mark Gold graciously serves creative, affordable Cal fare in intimate dining room. Family-style, prix fixe dinner on Sundays. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 7458 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.634.0700 $$ Map I13 FARMSHOP Cheery bakery and restaurant with a killer brunch. Try salmon rillettes with caper berries and toasted rye, or decadent French toast topped with crushed berries and pistachios. B, L (M–F), Br (Sa–Su). Brentwood Country Mart, 225 26th St., Santa Monica, 310.566.2400 $$ Map K8 FIG RESTAURANT Chef Ray Garcia, ex–French Laundry, crafts a seasonal menu of bistro fare; trendy charcuterie bar. Br (Su), B, L (daily), D (Tu–Sa). Fairmont Miramar Hotel, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.319.3111 $$ Map L8 GEOFFREY’S Prettiest patio in paradise? 180-degree Pacific views; creative seafood. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 27400 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.457.1519 $$$ Map northwest of K7 GINA LEE’S BISTRO Unassuming but daring CalAsian eatery is among the South Bay’s finest. D (Tu–Su). 211 Palos Verdes Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.375.4462 $$ Map N13

PUBLIC KITCHEN & BAR New. Meat-heavy but still refined menu includes chicken liver terrine with strawberry-rhubarb marmalade sweetbreads, crispy oxtail galette with poached egg; bar serves cured meats, cheeses and cocktails. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 $$$ Map G13

HATFIELD’S Couple that met in the kitchens of Spago serve their own eloquent version of California cuisine. Karen Hatfield’s desserts (sugar-and-spice beignets, peanut butter-caramel ganache tart) soar. D (nightly). 6703 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.935.2977 $$$ Map I13

British

JOE’S Boisterous benchmark of Cal cuisine is an Abbot Kinney classic. Nicely edited menu with notable desserts. Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.5811 $$$ Map M9

confit or butter-poached monkfish on the breezy patio. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 $$$ Map L8 PALATE FOOD + WINE Glendale goes gourmet at this Cal-Med bistro, featuring top-notch selection of wine and artisanal cheeses; wine bar and wine shop. L (F), D (nightly). 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.662.9463 $$ Map southeast of T23 PARKWAY GRILL Handsome dining room; one of Pasadena’s best restaurants. Diverse menu includes tiger shrimp corndogs, prosciutto-and-arugula pizza, duck breast with cherry reduction. L (M–F), D (nightly). 510 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.795.1001 $$$ Map N16 POLO LOUNGE Legendary celeb watering hole. McCarthy salad is a perennial favorite; great people watching. B, L, D (daily), Br (Su). Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.887.2777 $$$ Map I11 RESTAURANT AT THE GETTY CENTER Chic room, spectacular views of the Santa Monica Mountains and progressive fare at the hilltop museum. Br (Su), L (Tu–Sa), D (Sa). 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.6810 $$$ Map H9 SIR WINSTON’S Elegant dining on the Queen Mary; classic cuisine, coastal panoramas. Reservations required; jackets for men. D (nightly). 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.499.1657 $$$ Map O16 SPAGO BEVERLY HILLS There are Spagos from Maui to Vegas, but Wolfgang Puck’s flagship, a celebrity magnet, is the best. Fantastic chef Lee Hefter, pastry chef Sherry Yard. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$ Map I11 THE TASTING KITCHEN Loud, but lovely. Hipster foodies come for the daily-changing menu of innovative yet unpretentious cuisine: Small or large plates of cured meats, artisan cheeses, vegetables, seafood and pastas. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 1633 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.6644 $$$ Map M9 TAVERN Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal fare. Variety of seating options: sunlit indoor patio; quiet bar; casual “larder” (bakery/deli). B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9 208 RODEO Café spills onto cobblestone via at luxe Two Rodeo. A gem. Pan-Asian, French influences. B, L, D (daily). Two Rodeo, 208 Via Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.275.2428 $$ Map J11 VU California cuisine gets the molecular gastronomy treatment. Panoramic views of the glittering marina. B, L, D (daily). 14160 Palawan Way, Marina del Rey, 310.439.3033 $$$ Map N9 WESTSIDE TAVERN Chef Warren Schwartz does rustic Cal fare. Creamy chicken-liver mousse, excellent cocktails. Below Landmark Theatres. L, D (daily). Westside Pavilion, 10850 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.470.1539 $$ Map K10

Chinese

ROSE TREE COTTAGE Sweet, home-y spot for English afternoon tea with gracious service from husbandand-wife owners. Seatings at 1, 2:30 and 4 pm. Adjacent gift shop. Tea (T–Su). 801 S. Pasadena Ave., Pasadena, 626.793.3337 $$ Map Q19

LUCA FRESH BITES Fast-casual Cal-Ital: pizzas, pastas, salads, sandwiches, healthful smoothies and juices. B, L, D (daily). 7950 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.822.2900 $ Map 12H

WATERLOO & CITY Modest on the outside, cool British gastropub on the inside. House-made charcuterie, creative pizzas, red meat galore. D (nightly). 12517 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.391.4222 $$ Map M10

MAR’SEL Sustainable menu with produce and herbs from chef’s on-site garden. Overlooks sparkling peninsula. D (W–Su). Terranea Resort, 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2836 $$$$ Map O13

MR. CHOW L.A. edition of sceney restaurants in New York and London. Imperial Beijing cuisine. L (M–F), D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 $$$ Map I11

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Pub/restaurant with cozy dining rooms, fish and chips, high tea, gift shop. B, L, D

MICHAEL’S Michael McCarty’s influential restaurant, opened in 1979, endures. Enjoy Liberty Farms duck

NEW CAPITAL SEAFOOD A sample of the Chinese cuisine treasures that await in San Gabriel Valley. Dim

CBS SEAFOOD Fine dim sum in a setting not quite so huge as others in Chinatown or Monterey Park. B, L, D (daily). 700 N. Spring St., Chinatown, 213.617.2323 $$ Map G17

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Dining sum is worth the wait for a table. B, L, D (daily). Focus Plaza, 140 W. Valley Blvd, San Gabriel, 626.288.1899 $ Map B4 OCEAN SEAFOOD Vast and boisterous spot serves amazing array of traditional dishes, superfresh seafood, top-of-the-line dim sum. B, L, D (daily). 750 N. Hill St., Chinatown, 213.687.3088 $$ Map G17 philippe Mr. Chow rival Philippe Chow serves contemporary Chinese in sleek, red-white-and-black space. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.951.1100 $$$ Map I12

Clubs/Supper Clubs THE CROSSROADS Southern fare at live music venue House of Blues. Gospel Brunch every other Sunday, D (nightly). 8430 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.5136 $$ Map H12 Firefly Valley hot spot. Cool library lounge, retractable roof-covered patio. Bistro and Mediterranean dishes. D (nightly). 11720 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.762.1833 $$ Map U18

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first & hope American classics with Southern touch. Live music and cabaret. Across the street from the Music Center. Br (Su), L (Tu–F), D (nightly). 710 W. 1st St., downtown, 213.617.8555 $$ Map H16 supperclub New. International prix fixe menu and dinner show featuring performance artists, dancers and musicians. D (W–Sa). 6675 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.1900 $$$ Map H14 the tar pit From Campanile team, updated classics (steak Diane, shrimp cocktail) and 1940s-inspired drinks in glitzy, art moderne space. D (nightly). 609 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.965.1300 $$ Map I13

Eclectic/Fusion a-frame Roy Choi, whose Kogi launched a thousand food trucks, offers a bizarro comfort-food menu (beercan chicken, furikake kettle corn) with Korean influences. List of craft beers and signature cocktails. D (nightly). 12565 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.398.7700 $$ Map M10 asbury fusion The flavors of Asia, the Americas and the Mediterranean collide—think East Indian risotto, honey chicken tikka, and a burger cooked seven ways. D (nightly). 2501 W. 6th St., East L.A., 213.739.0909 $ Map H15 Asia de Cuba Innovative Pan-Asian/Cuban menu at Mondrian hotel. Beautiful patio outside, chic white-on-white décor inside. Dim sum. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8999 $$$ Map H12 Café del Rey Global menu. “Day Boat” is the catch of the day and info about the boat that caught it. Br (Sa– Su), L, D (daily). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9 CAFE SIERRA Cal–Continental-Chinese menu, Vegasstyle dinner buffet and entertainment. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). Hilton Universal City, 555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City, 818.509.2030 $$ Map U19 elements kitchen Seasonal menus feature a handful of key ingredients—for instance, beef, tomato or cabbage—with a variety of interpretations. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 37 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.440.0044 $$ Map Q19 GORDON RAMSAY Temperamental top toque Gordon Ramsay invades L.A. with a Cal-Asian melange. More

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Dining Le cLaFoUtis French-influenced entrees, pastas, salads; sidewalk patio. B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Sunset Plaza, 8630 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.5233 $$ Map H1

cicada Majestic deco room in historic Oviatt building with seasonal menus. Superior service. Call for hours. 617 S. Olive St., downtown, 213.488.9488 $$$ Map I16

the LittLe door Cuisine from south of France is offered on romantic patio behind a trellis gate. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12

cULina Warm, contemporary restaurant with sleek crudo bar. Veal chop with ciabatta crumbs, paper-thin pizzas. B, L (M–Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12

méLisse Michelin-starred contemporary AmericanFrench from acclaimed chef Josiah Citrin. Four-course prix-fixe; nine-course market tasting. Top cheese cart. D (Tu–Sa). 1104 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.0881 $$$$ Map M8

Chocolate soufﬂé from Firenze Osteria in Toluca Lake

casual Boxwood Café is adjacent. D (nightly). London West Hollywood, 1020 N. San Vicente Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.7788 $$$$ Map H11 maison akira Fine French cuisine with Japanese flair (such as a bento box with Kobe beef, miso sea bass, foie gras and chawanmushi) in Pasadena’s playhouse district. Eight-course omakase available. Br (Su), L (F), D (Tu–Su). 713 E. Green St., Pasadena, 626.796.9501 $$$ Map Q20 roXoLana restaUrant & wine bar Russian, Ukrainian and American dishes. Try cold borscht with pierogi or zharkoe kiev, served in a clay pot. L, D (daily). 34 S. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.792.0440 $$ Map Q19 sUsan FeniGer’s street Feniger, star of Food Network’s Too Hot Tamales, offers global fare inspired by street vendor offerings. Saag paneer, vegetable dumplings and brioche cheeseburger have a place on the diverse menu. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 742 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.203.0500 $$ Map I13

monsieUr marceL Charming bistro and wine bar at Farmers Market and Third Street Promenade. Br (Sa– Su), L, D (daily). 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.939.7792; 1260 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.587.1166 $$ Map I13, L8 patina Joachim Splichal’s flagship restaurant at the Walt Disney Concert Hall, arguably the best of his large collection. D (Tu–Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H17 petrossian Chef Giselle Wellman works with the brand’s signature caviar in creative ways. Highlights include caviar- and roe-topped blinis, vanilla panna cotta with espresso “caviar” (actually tapioca). B, L (daily), D (M–Sa). 321 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.271.6300 $$$ Map J12

Indian akbar cUisine oF india Extensive menu of Northern Indian fare. Santa Monica location is most stylish. L (M–F), D (nightly). 44 N. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.577.9916; 2627 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.586.7469; 3115 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey, 310.574.0666; 1101 Aviation Blvd., Hermosa Beach, 310.937.3800 $ Map Q19, K9, N9, L13

French

tanzore Sleek, sexy spot transforms Restaurant Row from classic Gaylord. Start with a clove martini. Br (Su), L, D (daily). 50 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.3894 $$$ Map J12

boUchon Superchef Thomas Keller offers his brasserie concept in cavernous dining room with spacious, popular zinc bar. Bar Bouchon and Bouchon Bakery are downstairs. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.271.9910 $$$ Map J11

Italian

chUrch & state Charming bistro with an industrial vibe. Moules marinière, escargots de bourgogne. L (M–F), D (nightly). 1850 Industrial St., downtown, 213.405.1434 $$ Map J17 comme Ça Top L.A. chef David Myers offers his takes on bistro fare, and supremely innovative cocktails, amid black-and-white décor. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.1104 $$ Map I12

anGeLini osteria Gino Angelini’s boisterous room is one of the city’s top Italian restaurants. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 7313 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.297.0070 $$$ Map I13 botteGa LoUie Traditional fare plus extensive small-plates menu; white marble palatial interiors. Gourmet market, fresh pastries. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16

dominick’s Retro Rat Pack vibe inside, airy brick patio with herb garden outside. Intriguing takes on the old favorites: goat cheese ravioli with corn broda and chive blossoms, wood-grilled burger with crispy speck and burrata. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.652.2335 $$ Map I12 draGo The first restaurant in the Drago dining dynasty features dishes from Celestino Drago’s native Sicily. L (M–F), D (nightly). 2628 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.828.1585 $$$$ Map K8 draGo centro Deftly executed Italian fare—garganelli with pork sausage and fennel seeds, parmesancrusted chicken with farro—and extensive wine list in a more contemporary space than Drago. L (M–F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16 Firenze osteria Top Chef’s Fabio Viviani does northern Italian comfort food. Dozens of martinis on the menu. L (M–F), D (nightly). 4212 Lankershim Blvd., Toluca Lake, 818.760.7081 $$ Map T19 iL cieLo Frolicking cherubs, 50,000 twinkling lights, flowered courtyard with retractable glass roof. 1,400 couples have married here. Even the food is romantic. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 9018 Burton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.9990 $$$ Map I11 iL Fornaio Trattoria-style favorites; adjoining bakeries offer pastries, sandwiches to take out. Beverly Hills: B, L, D (daily). Manhattan Beach: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Santa Monica: Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Pasadena: Br (Su), L, D (daily). 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330; 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555; 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800; 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 $$ Map J11, L13, L8, Q19 iL ristorante di GiorGio baLdi Late, legendary Giorgio Baldi’s celebrity-frequented eatery featuring cooking of Baldi’s native Tuscan village. D (Tu–Su). 114 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.573.1660 $$$ Map L7 iL soLe Intimate trattoria lures A-listers and neighborhood folks alike. A makeover courtesy of entrepreneur Brent Bolthouse lends a trendy, loungelike ambience. D (nightly). 8741 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.1182 $$$$ Map H12 La vecchia Rustic Northern Italian in a laid-back bistro. More than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, ossobuco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8

deLphine Menu of French classics (onion soup gratinée, trout meunière), sprinkled with Mediterranean dishes. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1355 $$$ Map H13

bUca di beppo Heaping, family-style portions. Call for hours. 80 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.792.7272; 17500 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.995.3288; 1670 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.540.3246; 1000 Universal Studios Blvd., Universal City, 818.509.9463; bucadibeppo.com for more locations. $$ Map Q21, A1, M14, U20

Locanda deL LaGo Northern Italian restaurant featuring organic produce from Santa Monica farmers markets. Br (Su), L, D (daily). 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.3525 $$ Map L8

kendaLL’s brasserie Fast-paced brasserie and seafood bar at the Music Center’s Dorothy Chandler Pavilion. L (daily), D (Tu–Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16

capo Restaurateur Bruce Marder’s intimate treasure on the coast, near Santa Monica Pier. Fabulous wine list. D (Tu–Sa). 1810 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.394.5550 $$$$ Map L8

matteo’s An old favorite of the Rat Pack endures. Burrata campana salad, Prince Edward Island mussels in white wine, ossobuco Milanese. D (Tu–Su). 2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A., 310.475.4521 $$ Map K10

La cachette bistro Moderately priced small plates. Risk-taking chef Jean François Meteigner might combine kiwi fruit with pesto or chocolate truffles with sevruga caviar. D (Tu–Su). 1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.434.9509 $$ Map M8

cecconi’s See-and-be-seen scene; Sonoma Valley lamb chops and ossobuco from wood oven; cicchetti (small plates) menu. B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 8764 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.432.2000 $$$ Map I12

nonna oF itaLY Old country meets New Hollywood with semitraditional Italian and Mediterranean dishes, in a sleek dining room on the Sunset Strip. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 9255 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.270.4455 $$$ Map I11

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Dining OSTERIA MOZZA From master baker Nancy Silverton and Iron Chef Mario Batali. Elegant sibling to Pizzeria Mozza, adjacent. Mozza 2 Go offered. Reservation recommended. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13

paparazzi ristorante Contemporary Italian, steaks and comforting sides. D (M–Sa). Sheraton Gateway Hotel, 6101 Century Blvd., Westchester, 310.642.4820 $$ Map O11

RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

Piccolo Eatery a block from the beach. Six-course seasonal tasting menu, monthly “reversal dinners” with chosen wines paired to dishes. D (nightly). 5 Dudley Ave., Venice, 310.314.3222 $$$ Map M8 Pizzeria Mozza Foodie hot spot from culinary stars Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich. Pizza with squash blossoms and burrata cheese; 50 Italian wines under $50. L, D (daily). 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101 $$ Map H13

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scarpetta Scott Conant replicates his NYC-based restaurant at the Montage Beverly Hills. His simple spaghetti with tomato and basil endures in popularity; duckand-foie-gras ravioli gets raves, too. Br (Su), L, D (daily). 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7970 $$$ Map I11 SOTTO New. Contemporary southern Italian in a subterranean space. Start with the blistered Little Gem lettuce with breadcrumbs and aged caprino sardo; move on to whole grilled orata or house-made casarecce with soft-boiled egg and lamb ragù. A half-dozen pizzas, too. L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Su). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0210 $$$ Map J11 The Stinking Rose “We season our garlic with food,” from Gartini cocktail to garlic ice cream. 40-Clove Garlic Chicken, Silence of the Lamb Shank. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12

8/8/11 4:39 PM

Tra di noi Mainstay restaurant at the Malibu Country Mart; pastas made in house daily. L, D (daily). 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.0169 $$$ Map K7 Trattoria Tre Venezie Specialties from Venetian chef include ricotta ravioli with beets; intimate dining room has Old World charm. D (W–Sa). 119 W. Green St., Pasadena, 626.795.4455 $$$ Map Q19 Valentino Chef Ezio Gamba moves from Valentino Las Vegas to the venerated original. Spot often cited as having one of America’s best wine cellars. L (F), D (Tu–Sa). 3115 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.4313 $$$$ Map L9

Premium Seafood. Aged Steaks. Fine Wines.

villa blanca Highly stylish white dining room and Asian-accented menu from reality star Lisa Vanderpump. L, D (daily). 9601 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.859.7600 $$$ Map J11 Vincenti Ristorante Trattoria with exhibition kitchen turns out Northern Italian specialties from a wood-burning oven. Upscale pizza menu on Mondays. L (F), D (M–Sa). 11930 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.0127 $$ Map J9

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WHERE | Los Angeles September 2011 1/3 p 4c

aburiya toranoko New. Sushi and izakaya. Noodles, sumiyaki; daring fare like miso-marinated beef tongue, and snow crab and jellyfish with cucumber sunomono. L, D (daily). 243 S. San Pedro St., Little Tokyo, 213.621.9500 $$ Map H17 ASANEBO Hidden in a minimall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi, seared toro in garlic cream and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu–F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1

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Dining Benihana The original exhibition kitchen—at your table! Encino: L (Su–F), D (nightly). Beverly Hills: L, D (daily). Torrance: L, D (daily). Santa Monica: L, D (daily). 38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 323.655.7311; 1447 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1423; Encino, 818.788.7121; Torrance, 310.316.7777 $$ Map I12, L8, G9, M14 Katsuya Designer Philippe Starck and sushi master Katsuya Uechi offer provocative take on Japanese aesthetics, cuisine. Sushi, robata bars and creative cocktails. L (varies by location), D (nightly). Downtown: D (Tu– Su). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.747.9797 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 Katsu-ya Top sushi bar along the Valley’s Sushi Row; no-frills décor. Expect a crowd. Studio City: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Encino: L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 11680 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.985.6976; 16542 Ventura Blvd., Encino, 818.788.2396 $$ Map U18, A1 Matsuhisa Sushi bar, superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s first, is one of L.A.’s culinary treasures. Dishes dazzle eyes and palate. L (M–F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12 NOBU Nobu Matsuhisa serves sushi, innovative Japanese-Peruvian fusion dishes to hipsters and celebs. D (nightly). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 3835 Cross Creek Road, Suite 18A, Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12 R23 Gem hidden among warehouses in the Arts District serves excellent sushi. Contemporary art and Frank Gehry-designed décor lend a hip vibe. L (M–F), D (nightly). 923 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.687.7178 $$$ Map I17 SUGARFISH Chef Kazunori Nozawa (the “Sushi Nazi” at Sushi Nozawa in Studio City) relaxes, dishing three preset “Trust Me” menus with reasonable tabs. The tuna sashimi is tops. L, D (daily). 47221/4 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.306.6300; 11640 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood, 310.820.4477; 600 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.627.3000; 1345 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.393.3338 $$ Map N9, K9, I16, L8

YE OLDE KING'S HEAD

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant & Shoppe

Sushi Nozawa Chef’s choice only (omakase) at renowned sushi bar. Low on ambience, high on quality and authenticity. L, D (M–F). 11288 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.508.7017 $$$ Map G12 Sushi Roku Nouvelle Japanese, sleek décor. Creative menu includes albacore tacos, salmon sashimi with black truffles shaved tableside. L.A.: L (M–Sa), D (nightly); Santa Monica and Pasadena: L, D (daily). 8445 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.6767; 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map I12, L8, Q19 sushi sasabune Don’t ask for a California or spicy tuna roll, but do expect incredibly fresh, authentically prepared sushi. Impressive omakase is recommended. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 12400 Wilshire Blvd., West L.A., 310.820.3596 $$$$ Map K9

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips. Open for breakfast weekends at 8am, Fabulous happy hour Mon–Fri 4-7pm. Traditional Afternoon Tea is served Saturdays 2-5pm. Karaoke Sundays at 9pm. Heated patio. Quiz shows every Wednesday. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, cheese and much more.

TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA Sushi, robata and other Japanese specialties in a hip dining room and veranda with awesome views. L (M–F), D (nightly). 811 Wilshire Blvd., 21st floor, downtown, 213.236.9600 $$ Map I16 Urasawa Hiroyuki Urasawa’s tiny spot may be the L.A. area’s most exquisite restaurant; it’s also the most pricey, at $275 minimum per person. D (Tu–Sa). 218 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.247.8939 $$$$ Map I11 Yamashiro Creative Cal-Asian in exquisite Kyoto palace replica. Spectacular city views; koi garden dining. D (nightly). 1999 N. Sycamore Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.5125 $$$ Map G13

11 6 S a n t a M o n i c a B l v d .

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What could top Parkers’ Lighthouse? HOW ABOUT A

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Dining Korean chosun galbee Korean barbecue restaurant offers a more upscale ambience than most, with an elegant open-air patio. L, D (daily) 3330 W. Olympic Blvd., Koreatown, 323.734.3330 $$$ Map Seoul Jung Traditional Korean barbecue and hot pot specialties prepared at your table. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wilshire Grand Hotel, 930 Wilshire Blvd., downtown, 213.688.7880 $$$ Map H16 soot bull jeep One of K-Town’s best, with all manner of savory meats cooked on tabletop grills. L, D (daily). 3136 W. 8th St., Koreatown, 213.387.3865 $$ Map east of J14

Mediterranean AOC Star chef Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne (Lucques) offer a wine bar, cheese bar and charcuterie bar. Some dishes are prepared in a wood-burning oven. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 8022 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.653.6359 $$ Map I12 barbrix Small-plate eatery in converted schoolhouse. Tapas bar, charming patio and exhibition kitchen. D (nightly). 2442 Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.662.2442 $$$ Map east of W23 Campanile Chef-owner Mark Peel’s enduring first restaurant. Grilled meats, pastas, vegetables; you can’t go wrong. Gourmet grilled cheese Thursdays. Br (Sa– Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.938.1447 $$$ Map J13 cleo Noisy, posh mezze bar in boutique hotel. Flatbreads and vegetables like the outstanding crispy brussels sprouts are prepared in a wood-burning oven. D (nightly). The Redbury, 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 $$$ Map H14 fig & Olive New. New York-based restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil: gorgonzola jamón ibérico ravioli drizzled with porcini olive oil, grilled branzino glazed with fig and picholine olive oil. Champagne bar upstairs; retail component. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 8490 Melrose Place, L.A., 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12

fedora cabaret

FRAÎCHE Rustic bistro offers market-fresh cuisine with French and Italian accents. Culver City: Br (Sa–Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Santa Monica: L (M–F), D (nightly). 9411 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.839.6800; 312 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.7482 $$$ Map L11, L8 GJELINA Lively, spirited spot featuring organic, seasonal dishes; pizzas are popular. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9 Lucques Ever-hot chef Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne (AOC) serve fabulous French-Med menu. Nowhere do vegetables taste as good! L (Tu–Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13 mezze New. Mediterranean and Middle Eastern small plates. Signature dishes are yellowtail crudo with toasted pine nuts and cherry gremolata, and flatbreads topped with merguez sausage and tomato jam. D (M–Sa). 401 La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.657.4103 $$ Map I12 PETROS Fine contemporary Greek fare in a cool white dining room or on the covered patio. Dress code for indoor diners. L, D (daily). 451 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.4100 $$$ Map L13

213. 617. 8555 Open 2hrs. prior to curtain :: Sun - Thurs ‘til 11pm :: Fri & Sat ’til 12:30am

pita Jungle New. Light, fast-casual Mediterranean staples such as dolmades and gyros mixed with Mexi-

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Dining can, Italian and even Caribbean fare. 43 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.7482 $ Map Q19 ray’s & Stark bar New. Petite, Renzo Piano– designed eatery at the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. Contemporary Med-inspired cuisine including vegetables cooked in wood-burning oven. Adjacent Stark Bar offers designer cocktails on an outdoor patio. L, D (Th–Tu). 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6180 $$ Map J13

Mexican/Latin Border Grill Nuevo Latino fare from Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken. Downtown location offers free shuttle to L.A. Live and Music Center. Santa Monica: Tu–Su. Br (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). Downtown: L (M–F), D (nightly). 1445 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.451.1655; 445 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.486.5171 $$ Map L8, H16 La Serenata de Garibaldi One of L.A.’s best Mexican eateries, featuring its lighter coastal specialties. Gourmets make pilgrimage to East L.A. location. L, D (daily). West L.A.: B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). East L.A.: B (Su), L, D (daily) 10924 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.441.9667; 1842 E. 1st St., Boyle Heights, 323.265.2887 $$ Map L8, K10, east of H17 malo East L.A.-meets-Mexico City cuisine. Silver Lake location has a neighborhood feel, while downtown’s new Más Malo is eclectically glam. Malo: Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). Más Malo: Br (Sa-Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 4326 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.664.1011; 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.985.4332 $$ Map south of W23, I16 mo-chica No-frills Peruvian restaurant that helped earn Ricardo Zarate the title of Best New Chef by Food & Wine. Accomplished dishes—braised oxtail risotto, lomo saltado—at unbelievable prices. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). Mercado la Paloma, 3655 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.747.2141 $ Map K15 picca New. Ricardo Zarate’s second Peruvian restaurant has grander ambitions, with a more dressed-up dining room and larger menu featuring small plates of ceviches, tiraditos, anticuchos, Peruvian-style sushi. Mezzanine bar serves pisco cocktails. D (M–Sa). 9575 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.277.0133 $$ Map J11 playa New. “Urban Latin” small plates from chef John Sedlar. Tapas include maize cakes with fillings such as shrimp, Napa cabbage and mustard ice cream; flower-inlaid tortillas are a Sedlar signature. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 7360 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.933.5300 $$ Map red o Contemporary Mexican cuisine guru Rick Bayless arrives in L.A., and his thoughtful, evocative cuisine is matched by a sexy, transporting space. Extensive tequila list. Br (Su), D (nightly). 8155 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.5009 $$$ Map I12 rivera From acclaimed Southwestern-influenced chef John Sedlar; custom-blended tequilas are a specialty; artful plating with designs stenciled in spices. L (M–F), D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I16

Pan-Asian Crustacean Very stylish French–Vietnamese; glass-covered koi stream underfoot. Prawns, large crabs, garlic noodles. Popular bar; live music on select nights. L (M–F), D (nightly). 9646 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 $$$ Map I11 lukshon Sang Yoon of Father’s Office opens a Southeast Asian eatery with a selection of craft beers and Far

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Dining East-inspired cocktail program. D (M–Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 the spice table New. Dishes inspired by Singaporean and Vietnamese traditions: satays, noodle soups, clay pot catfish, grilled or wood-burned vegetables. L, D (M–Sa). 114 S. Central Ave., Little Tokyo, 213.620.1840 $$ Map H17 wp24 Wolfgang Puck hits it just right on the 24th floor of the Ritz. Suckling pig or foie gras-filled bao to start; two-pound Maine “Angry Lobster” entree. D (M–Sa). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15 Yangtze One of Third Street Promenade’s classier eateries, this striking restaurant and sushi bar serves accessible pan–Asian. L, D (daily). 1333 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.260.1994 $ Map L8

Quick Bites The apple pan Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger aficionados wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu–Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 $ Map K10 in-n-out SoCal’s iconic burgers, cooked to order—try the off-menu “animal style”—plus fries and shakes. Seating and drive-through. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 7009 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 800.786.1000 and 10 other locations $ Map H13 M CAFÉ DE CHAYA Macrobiotic cuisine that actually tastes good. Oh-so-L.A.! B, L, D (daily), Br (Sa–Su). 7119 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.525.0588; 9433 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.858.8459 $ Map H13, J11 native foods Vegan restaurant that appeals to nonvegetarians, too, with creative tempeh burgers and seitan buffalo wings. L, D (daily). 9343 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.559.3601; 11101/2 Gayley Ave., Westwood, 310.209.1055 $ Map L11, J10 Philippe the Original Purported birthplace of French dip sandwich is low on ambience, but this gritty cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 9-cent coffee. Cash only. B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 $ Map G17 pink’s hot dogs There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot dog stand, open since 1939, which serves 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 $ Map I13

ZAGAT RATED 2011Excellent

french cuisine with a japanese flair

7 1 3 e a s t g r e e n s t r e e t pasadena 626 796 9501 m a i s o n a k i r a . n e t

Tender Greens Cafeteria-like concept serves tasty salads and comforting “hot plates” with proteins, greens and buttery mashed potatoes. L, D (daily). 9523 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.842.8300; 8759 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.358.1919; 6290 Sunset Blvd., Hollywood, 323.382.0380 $ Map L11, I12, H14 the veggie grill Cheery, fast-casual vegan restaurant that even carnivores can enjoy. Soy- and gluten-free options. L, D (daily). 8000 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.822.7575; 2025 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.829.1155; Plaza El Segundo, 720 Allied Way, El Segundo, 310.535.0025; Rolling Hills Plaza, 2533 Pacific Coast Hwy., Torrance, 310.325.6689 $ Map H12, L8, C2, N14 wurstkÜche Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Arts District bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, alligator and pork andouille. Open late. L, D (daily). 800 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.687.4444 $ Map I17

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Dining SON OF A GUN New. The meat-loving chefs at Animal turn to the sea, cooking up salmon collar, lobster rolls and shrimp toast sandwiches in a nautically themed space. D (nightly). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

ly). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; The Grill on Hollywood, Hollywood & Highland Center, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.856.5530; 120 E. Promenade Way, Thousand Oaks, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, H13, north of A10

WATER GRILL Chef Amanda Baumgarten coldpoaches and slow-steams at classic venue. Excellent raw bar, shellfish platters; no wine corkage fee. L (M–F), D (nightly). 544 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.891.0900 $$$$ Map H16

L.A. PRIME Dine in high style 35 floors up. Aged USDA certified Prime beef from Chicago. D (nightly). Westin Bonaventure, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.624.1000 $$$ Map H16

Lobster roll from Blue Plate Oysterette in Santa Monica

Seafood BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Café by the beach offers a very respectable lobster roll (served with mayo or butter) and other New England specialties. L, D (daily). 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$ Map L8 CHART HOUSE Perennial favorite; beachfront or marina views. Renowned salad bar, fresh fish, slowroasted prime rib. L (call for hours), D (nightly). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.9321; 13950 Panay Way, Marina del Rey, 310.822.4144; 231 Yacht Club Way, Redondo Beach, 310.372.3464 $$ Map west of K7, N9, M13 DUKE’S MALIBU Mainland outpost of busiest restaurant in Hawaii offers island seafood, spectacular ocean views. Find fun tiki drinks at the Barefoot Bar. Br (Su), L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 $$ Map west of K7 GLADSTONE’S MALIBU One of SoCal’s biggest hits with a million visitors each year. Dramatic ocean views. B (Sa–Su), L, D (daily). 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.454.3474 $$ Map west of K7 THE HUNGRY CAT East Coast fare in hip little spots. Dungeness crab benedict; you-peel or they-peel shrimp by the half-pound. Hollywood: Br (Sa–Su), L (Tu–F), D (nightly); Santa Monica: D (nightly). Sunset+Vine, 1535 N. Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.2155; 100 W. Channel Road, Santa Monica, 310.459.3337 $$ Map H14, L7 THE LOBSTER Excellent seafood in landmark spot overlooking the pier; great sunsets, of course. L, D (daily). 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.9294 $$$ Map L8 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S Classy wood, glass and brass space; seafood any way you like it. Happy hour. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 206 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.0434; 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.405.0064; 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.629.1929; 2101 Rosecrans Ave., El Segundo, 310.416.1123; 3500 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.260.0505 $$ Map Q19, I11, H16, L13, T20 PARKERS’ LIGHTHOUSE Working lighthouse with panoramic views of Long Beach Bay and city skyline. Sushi bar with waterfront patio seating. L, D (daily). 435 Shoreline Village Drive, Long Beach, 562.432.6500 $$ Map N16 PROVIDENCE Extraordinary chef Michael Cimarusti offers an adventure at sea and on land. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14

BAR PINTXO Prominent California chef Joe Miller (Joe’s) offers authentic tortilla Española, bacalao and croquetas de jamón and Spanish wines. L, D (daily). 109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.458.2012 $$$ Map M8 THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings whimsical set of Spanish-style dining experiences to SLS Hotel. Tasting room Saam offers an unforgettable, 22-course tasting menu, $95. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$ Map H16 CAFE SEVILLA Authentic Spanish fare and tapas bar on a bustling strip in downtown Long Beach. Dinner show on Saturdays; nightclub upstairs. D (nightly). 140 Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.1111 $$ Map N16 COBRAS & MATADORS Tops for tapas. Tortilla española, albondigas (meatballs). It’s BYOB; pick up a bottle at Erewhon market across the street. D (nightly). 7615 W. Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.932.6178 $$ Map J13 PRIMITIVO WINE BISTRO Fun tapas, extensive wine list and festive vibe. Br (Sa–Su), L (M–F), D (nightly). 1025 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.5353 $$$ Map M9

Steak ARNIE MORTON’S OF CHICAGO Clubby ambience, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. L (M–F), D (nightly). 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; The Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I16, T20 ARROYO CHOPHOUSE Exclusively USDA Prime at handsome spot. D (nightly). 536 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena, 626.577.7463 $$$$ Map R20 BLT STEAK A branch of a New York City favorite; raw bar and all-American steakhouse standards get a dose of French technique and modern setting. D (Tu– Sa). 8720 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.1950 $$$$ Map H12 BOA Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails. Santa Monica: L, D (daily); West Hollywood: L (M–F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H11 CUT Wolfgang Puck–architect Richard Meier collaboration is cutting-edge steakhouse. D (M– Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$$ Map J11 FOGO DE CHÃO L.A.’s finest Brazilian churrascaria; gaucho-garbed chefs carve prime skewered meats tableside. Amazing salad-and-sides bar. Prix fixe. L (M–F), D (nightly). 133 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.289.7755 $$$ Map J12 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY Wood-and-brass chophouse is a legendary industry spot. L (M–Sa), D (night-

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in-filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11 NICK AND STEF’S Joachim Splichal’s slick haven for carnivores. L (M–F), D (nightly). Wells Fargo Building, 330 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.680.0330 $$$ Map H16 PACIFIC DINING CAR Filet mignon at 3 am? It can be had at L.A.’s grandest 24-hour eatery, open since 1921. B, L, D (daily). 1310 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.483.6000; 2700 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.4000 $$$ Map H16, K RUTH’S CHRIS STEAK HOUSE At this upscale chain, steak arrives sizzling in butter. L (varies), D (nightly). 224 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.8744; 369 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.583.8122 $$$ Map I11, Q20 STK Sultry steakhouse for the young crowd, with fun appetizers such as shrimp “rice krispies” and Wagyu beef sliders . Open-air lounge with DJ. D (nightly). 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.659.3535 $$$$ Map I12 WOLFGANG’S STEAKHOUSE Chef Wolfgang Zwiener opens outpost of his New York steakhouse. Try the dry-aged porterhouse steak for two, three or four. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 445 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0640 $$$$ Map J11

Thai JITLADA THAI The wait is long, and the ambience low, but the Southern Thai specialties are authentic and exceptional. L, D (daily). 52331/2 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake 323.667.9809 $$ Map W22 NATALEE THAI Thai menu sprinkled with a few tried-and-true pan-Asian dishes; stylish design. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, I11 PALMS THAI Traditional dishes in Thai Town. Most famous for its “Thai Elvis,” an impersonator who hams it up for diners. L, D (daily). 5900 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5073 $ Map H14 TALÉSAI Elegant duo of eateries serving refined Thai cuisine). L (M–F), D (nightly). 9043 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 9198 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.271.9345 $ Map I12, J11

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LAWRY’S THE PRIME RIB A Restaurant Row classic. Prime rib, to-die-for creamed corn and spinach served with showmanship from table-side carts. D (nightly). 100 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.2827 $$$ Map I12

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208 RODEO Set atop the stairs on Via Rodeo’s cobblestone street, 208 Rodeo serves up luxury and bistro fare in a unique, romantic setting. Exuding Rodeo Drive elegance—the restaurant’s flagstone patio overlooks the Beverly Wilshire Hotel, the setting of the film Pretty Woman—208 Rodeo is a gem among the ritzy shops of Two Rodeo. Whether it’s for breakfast, lunch, dinner or a quick bite, 208 Rodeo offers it all amid warm Hollywood Regency décor. The eatery offers California cuisine with pan-Asian and French influences, serving dishes that are both beautifully presented and imaginatively prepared with seasonal ingredients. Menu highlights include tomato bisque, coconut sesame prawns, tuna tartar, penne arrabbiata and pan-roasted striped bass. 208 Rodeo also offers a delectable dessert list featuring chocolate Florentine cannoli and tiramisu. A children’s menu is available for all meals. B, L, D (daily)

208 Via Rodeo, Beverly Hills

310.275.2428

Starters Organic tomato bisque French onion soup Crispy calamari Caprese salad with burrata Mediterranean tuna tartar Goat cheese with roasted baby beets Coconut sesame prawns Smoked salmon platter Assorted sliders Classic Caesar salad Iceberg Cobb salad Thai beef salad Seared ahi tuna Niçoise salad Asian grilled prawn-spinach salad Lobster-and-white-truffle salad Entrees Brioche French toast Cobblestone omelets Organic parfait Gourmet grilled cheese sandwich Grilled chicken breast sandwich Kobe beef avocado burger Penne arrabbiata Roasted salmon Strip bass meunière Provençal mussels and fries Grilled Jidori chicken Baby lamb chop New York strip steak Flat iron steak and French green beans Filet mignon and Brussels sprouts Desserts Chocolate Florentine cannoli Mixed berry rolada Napoleon Tiramisu Triple-layer chocolate mousse White chocolate cheesecake

208rodeo.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Crab cakes with micro greens Prime filet carpaccio Charlie’s cheese plate Watermelon salad Ahi tartar Oysters

CHarLIE’S MaLIBU Charlie DiLorenzo opened her dream restaurant in spring 2009 to outstanding reviews. Embraced by the local community and diners visiting the spectacular coastal location, Charlie’s serves classic steaks, fresh seafood, pastas and gourmet pizzas—including a 16-oz. rib eye, lamb lollipops with blue cheese fondue and seared dry pack sea scallops—as well as the house favorite, white pizza with ricotta, feta, mozzarella and Parmesan cheeses and white truffle essence. The lunch menu offers organic salads, sandwiches, burgers, pizzas, pastas and fresh seafood along with starters including ahi tartare and crispy calamari rings. Charlie’s also boasts a contemporary bar program of original cocktails and a wine cellar with 150 labels from vineyards from Malibu to the Médoc. A stylish yet casual dining room, private room, small patio and lounge features neutral tones and natural woods, highlighted by striking Dolce & Gabbana leopard-print “mademoiselle” chairs and a hand-blown glass chandelier. L (M–F), D (nightly).

Entrees Spaghetti aglio y olio Angel hair pomodoro Penne a la vodka White pizza with white truffle essence Wild mushroom and goat cheese pizza Charlie’s Kobe burger Charlie’s famous chicken sandwich Portobello mushroom sandwich Prime rib-eye sandwich Filet mignon New York strip steak Rib eye steak Pork chop Lamb with blue-cheese fondue Duck with Port wine and cherries Half-roasted Jidori chicken Grilled salmon Grilled jumbo prawns Seared dry pack scallops Lobster tail

22821 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu

310.456.3132 charliesmalibu.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters Rice balls Grilled artichoke Beef carpaccio with bone marrow Oysters with mignonette

DOMINICK’S RESTAURANT Bringing a retro Rat Pack vibe to 21st-century Los Angeles, Dominick’s in West Hollywood has been a crowd favorite since it opened its doors in 1948. Renovated by owners Warner Ebbink and Chef Brandon Boudet in 2004, the red leather banquettes, black-and-white-tiled floor, refurbished wooden bar and walls covered with family photos lend a warm and welcoming retro-hip vibe. Two expansive patios, one with an outdoor bar, lure diners with brick fireplaces, walls decorated with potted herbs and an intimate yet convivial feel. Diners will be delighted with Chef Boudet’s approachable yet inventive Italian-American menu with favorites such as spaghetti and meatballs, whitefish piccata, house-made ricotta gnocchi and fried hen. The popular weekend brunch offers unique cocktails and $12 bottles of prosecco, as well as the addictive ricottaand-blueberry pancakes, herb waffles with smoked salmon and a woodgrilled hamburger with burrata. Br (Sa–Su), D (nightly).

Entrees Housemade ricotta gnocchi Whitefish piccata Prime New York steak House-made meatball flight Grilled Loch Duart salmon Fried hen with fennel-celery salad Brunch Entrees Eggs funghi Blueberry-and-ricotta pancakes Tomato-and-goat cheese frittata Steak and poached eggs Grilled wild boar bacon Desserts Ricotta fritters with blackberry compote Pistachio cake with strawberries Seasonal gelato

8715 Beverly Blvd., West Hollywood

310.652.2335 dominicksrestaurant.com

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FIrENzE OSTErIa A stone’s throw from Universal Studios, Firenze Osteria sets the standard for Italian cuisine in Los Angeles. Executive chef Fabio Viviani, a fan favorite on season five of Bravo’s Top Chef, brings 500-year-old recipes from Florence to Southern California diners. A delicious menu includes house-made pastas, dry-aged meats and imported cheeses, as well as an extensive wine list and unique martinis created by award-winning mixologist Jacopo Falleni. Classic Tuscan décor bathed in rustic browns and yellows transports diners to Italy without the need for a passport. Firenze Osteria’s high quality and commitment to excellence makes every dining experience memorable, from catered affairs to private parties. The restaurant can customize a special menu for parties of 20 to 250, or bring the warmth of fine Italian dining to private dinners and large events. L (M-F), D (nightly).

4212 Lankershim Blvd., Toluca Lake

818.760.7081 firenzeosteria.com

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Starters Grilled pancetta-and-burrata crostino Carpaccio with roasted mushrooms Grilled pancetta-wrapped jumbo shrimp Spinach-and-ricotta dumplings Crab cake Prosciutto and melon Caesar salad Poached pear salad Crispy duck salad Burrata salad Buffalo caprese salad Entrees Wheat spaghetti with chicken Mediterranean-style flat iron steak Light salmon salad Filet of sole Sausage-and-mushroom risotto Lobster ravioli Gnocchi with pesto Braised short rib ravioli Trofie pasta with duck sausage Butternut squash ravioli Fettuccini bolognese Seafood linguini Lobster mac and cheese Cioppino Mediterranean sea bass Roasted chicken Sliced filet with arugula Balsamic baby back ribs Ossobucco Pork chop Fried pounded veal chop Rib eye Filet mignon Rack of lamb Desserts Panna cotta Flourless chocolate cake Tiramisu House-made gelatos

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NoNNa of ITaLy Dine on classic Italian cuisine and contemporary Mediterranean-inspired dishes at Nonna of Italy. Located on the historic Sunset Strip, the restaurant reflects the Old Hollywood tradition of generous hospitality. Diners have the option to enjoy Nonna’s colorful Italian dishes in the elegant dining room or on the heated patio overlooking the strip. Menu highlights include Mediterranean sea bass with roasted potatoes and Meyer lemon sauce, and wood-oven-cooked prime New York steak. The wine list features a variety of Italian options—see an array of Super Tuscans and selections from boutique Sicilian purveyors—as well as a few bottles from California. Daily specials include happy hour, weekdays from 3–7 pm, and a prix fixe three-course lunch menu. L (M–F), D (M–Sa).

Starters Crispy calamari Mussels and clams Beef carpaccio Burrata and prosciutto Nonna antipasti Nonna’s favorite salad Caesar salad Artichoke salad Gorgonzola salad Warm Sonoma goat cheese salad Entrees Prosciutto-and-Asian pear pizza Three-cheese pizza Sausage-and-mushroom pizza Americana pizza Spinach-and-ricotta ravioli Fettuccini primavera Lobster spaghetti Linguini scampi Roasted chicken Mediterranean sea bass Grilled Scottish salmon Grilled swordfish Dover sole meunière Roasted veal chop Veal milanese Wood-oven New York steak Osso buco

9255 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood

310.270.4455 nonnaofitaly.com

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MENU HIGHLIGHTS Starters “Little Gem Caeser” salad Burrata cheese and heirloom tomatoes Roasted organic artichokes

paparazzI rISToraNTE Paparazzi Ristorante in the Sheraton Gateway Hotel near LAX delights diners with fresh pasta in authentic sauces as well as artistically prepared seafood, poultry and steaks. Chef Orazio Parisi inspires the senses with his simple, classic Italian cuisine with a gentle nod to southern Italy. Start with a tasty salad such as the “Little Gem Caeser”, or choose from appetizers that include eggplant parmigiana or tuna tartar with blood orange vinaigrette and an artichoke puree. The house specialty is “Il Cioppino dei Paparazzi”, an enticing combination of seafood in a fennel pomodoro broth served with a classic garlic ciabatta or try the terra e mare, an Angus filet mignon served alongside wild Pacific prawns, asparagus and gorgonzola mashed potatoes. Pasta lovers can also find comfort with the robust flavorings of the garganelli alla Salsiccia, lasagna al brasato or spaghetti alla chitarra. Dine in a crisp, clean and classy décor. An elegant private dining room accommodates 40 guests and is equipped for entertainment and audio-visual needs. D (M–Sa).

Entrees Spaghetti alla chitarra Tagliatelle alla bolognese Garganelli con Salsiccia Lasagna al brasato Il cioppino dei Paparazzi Fileto alla griglia Bistecca al pepe verde La bistecca del vaccaro Ossobuco Organic lamb chops Pan-seared branzino al “salmoriglio” Sicilian pistachio-crusted Alaskan halibut Desserts Crema fredda al limoncello Profiteroles Tiramisu

6101 W. Century Blvd., Westchester

310.642.4820 sheratonlax.com/paparazzi

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SIMoN LA At Simon LA, chef/partner Kerry Simon, winner of the Food Network’s Iron Chef, serves his signature brand of American comfort fare. Named the “Rock ’n’ Roll Chef” by Rolling Stone magazine, Simon delivers delightfully simple, straightforward cuisine including bluefin tuna tartare with lemongrass oil, brick-roasted organic chicken with spiced chickpeas and harissa herb aioli, and cowboy rib-eye with crispy shallot rings. For dessert, try the group-friendly Junk Food Platter, filled with grown-up versions of nostalgic treats from childhood. Meals are served in a visually eclectic dining room decorated with earthy, organic tones and leather accents. A candlelit outdoor patio features plush couches and oversize pillows. Br (Sa–Su), B, L, D (daily).

Starters Roasted exotic mushroom salad Baby beet salad on scarlet quinoa Heirloom tomato and burrata cheese Kenter greens market salad Belgian endive and organic watercress Apple rutabaga soup Beef tartare with caper aïoli Italian sausage flatbread with fried egg Creamy crispy rock shrimp Colossal crab cake with Asian slaw Tuna tartare in lemongrass oil Tuna dynamite with red chili aïoli West Coast oysters Entrees Chanterelle-crusted NY strip steak Crab-crusted local fish on forbidden rice Oven-roasted brick chicken Roasted salmon on farro risotto Beef carpaccio pizza Bamboo steamed fish Braised prime beef short ribs Cumin marinated skirt steak Cowboy rib-eye in red-wine butter Ahi tuna with wasabi mashed potatoes Filet mignon with Tuscan fries Special recipe meatloaf Lamb porterhouse with farro tabbouleh Chef’s market selection garden risotto

8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.358.3979 simonlarestaurant.com

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la dining LUCA-Fresh Bites LUCA-Fresh Bites is a welcome city retreat where customers can find healthy menu options using the freshest natural and organic ingredients in an eco-friendly contemporary setting. The menu is inspired by the simple and wholesome food that you would find in a typical Italian home with a touch of Southern California cuisine. The design of the restaurant is an extension of the menu. They used eco-friendly building materials, natural finishes and extensive plantings to create a peaceful and natural environment where customers can escape the demands of their day and the bustling L.A. traffic. B, L, D (daily).

7950 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood 323.822.2900 lucafreshbites.com

Matteo’s Restaurant Frequented in its early days by celebs including Frank Sinatra and the rest of the Rat Pack, Matteo’s Restaurant has redefined its look and cuisine while maintaining status as the epitome of classic cool. A unique menu that changes with the seasons and an upscale supper club atmosphere form a winning combination of homey and hip. Executive chef Antonio Orlando’s menu feature sumptuous, cosmopolitan Italian fare like veal tartufato, lamb and weekly game specials. Happy hour specials Tuesday through Friday and on Sunday include half-off drinks and a $7 and under bar menu. For lunch, visit adjacent cafe Hoboken, open weekdays. D (Tu-Su).

2321 Westwood Blvd., L.A. 310.475.4521 matteosla.com

Vampire Lounge & Tasting Room Discover a seductive escape in the heart of Beverly Hills at Vampire Lounge & Tasting Room. On the menu is Vampire Vineyards’ full range of delicious wines; try Dracula Syrah, Trueblood Pinot Noir or Je T’aime Rosé Champagne. Also sample bittersweet chocolates, superb cappuccinos, fine teas and other delicious `lite bites’. The lounge features décor with gothic undertones, including plush red velvet upholstery and gold-and-crystal chandeliers. Twilight Happy Hour, featuring 25 percent off reserve wines, is a must. Anne Rice fans will adore this place, which offers a chance to sip the blood of the vine. Gifts and specialty food products are also available. 9865 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.826.7473 vampiretastingroom.com special advertising section

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la dining

Bouchon Bistro

Bouchon emphasizes leading American chef and restaurateur Thomas Keller’s reputation for impeccable ingredients and service, offered in a vibrant gem of a dining room. Rooted in tradition, the bistro highlights France’s culinary heritage, serving such classic entrees as steak frites and trout amandine, as well as an extensive raw bar. Also on the menu, find assorted charcuterie and cheeses, quiches, salads and soups; an international wine list boasts selections from France and the U.S., primarily California. Located downstairs and open from 10am–10pm, Bar Bouchon has a traditional neighborhood feel and features an extensive bar menu. Br (Sa-Su), L (M–F), D (nightly).

235 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills 310.271.9910 bouchonbistro.com

Benihana Beverly Hills At the heart of the Benihana experience lies the teppanyaki table, where masterful chefs expertly prepare fine Japanese cuisine on hibachi grills. Favorites like filet mignon, New York strip steak, shrimp with butter and lemon, Seafood Diablo with udon noodles or the signature hibachi chicken fried rice are cooked to order right in front of guests. The appetizer menu includes sushi and tempura selections. The beverage menu includes interesting wines, creative cocktails and a variety of sake. A children’s menu is also available. L, D (daily).

38 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 323.655.7311 benihana.com

Noé Restaurant & Bar Nestled among skyscrapers and the water features of California Plaza is Noé Restaurant & Bar in the Omni Los Angeles Hotel. Awarded a notable 3 fork-and-knife rating in the Los Angeles 2008 Michelin Guide, executive chef Glen Ishii’s market-driven menu of neo bistro cuisine tempts palates of diners nightly. With portion sizes ranging from delicate small plates to full-bodied entrees, Noé Restaurant & Bar has become a popular setting for downtown residents to unwind or for theater patrons grabbing a quick bite before the curtain rises at the numerous theaters in the area. This fall, in honor of Cirque du Soleil’s new show, Iris, Noé offers fans a three-course prix fixe menu evoking the whimsical production’s cinematic theme. D (nightly).

Omni Los Angeles Hotel, 251 S. Olive St., downtown 213.356.4100 noerestaurant.com special advertising section

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la dining Il Fornaio Il Fornaio’s award-winning authentic Italian cuisine is a favorite in Los Angeles. Specialties include house-made pastas, wood-fired pizza, grilled fish, authentic risotto, and rotisserie meats. Artisan breads and pasta are made fresh daily. Each month a special menu from a different region of Italy is featured. With an event coordinator on-site to handle all of your needs, Il Fornaio is the perfect location for special events and business functions. Winner of the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2008.

301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.550.8330 1800 Rosecrans Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.725.9555 1551 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.451.7800 1 Colorado, Pasadena, 626.683.9797 ilfornaio.com

The Stinking Rose Located on Beverly Hills’ famed Restaurant Row, The Stinking Rose has made a name for itself, and its popularity is evident—people fill the unique dining rooms to partake of the tasty food enhanced by the fragrant bulb. Specialties include two pounds of whole, garlic-roasted Dungeness crab in a secret garlic sauce, garlic-encrusted baby back ribs and the ever-popular forty-clove garlic chicken. L, D (daily).

55 N. La Cienega Blvd. (near Wilshire Blvd.), Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 thestinkingrose.com

Cafe Sierra Within walking distance of Universal Studios Entertainment Center, Cafe Sierra offers an extravagant, Vegas-style seafood, lobster and prime rib dinner buffet with entertainment. On the weekend, they offer a delectable champagne brunch which has been voted best in Los Angeles. Signature American international breakfast buffet, which is perfect for early morning power meetings and offers Wi-Fi capabilities. A la carte breakfast, lunch and dinner menus offer a wide selection of continental cuisine. With a wide selection of award winning wines, the atrium lounge features great appetizers and happy hour. Alfresco dining at Hollywood Pool and Cabanas (weather permitting). Free self-parking. 10% discount on dinner buffet with hotel key. B, L, D (daily).

555 Universal Hollywood Drive, Universal City 818.509.2030 hiltonuniversal.com special advertising section

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9/13/11 1:25 PM

Executive Chef & Partner Francesco Velasco in the second-story window of his new Beverly Hills restaurant.

welcome to From

This opening parTy is important. The food has to reflect chef Velasco’s new vision.

NOW OPEN

362 North Camden Drive in Beverly Hills, California 90210 www.tradinoirestaurants.com 310-277-7346

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Beverly Hills Sea Level to the Second Story

Francesco Velasco is sipping espresso on a bench in the tiny park just steps away from Tra di Noi Ristorante where he is a partner and the Executive Chef. It’s a cool, dewy morning in Malibu. A marine layer had kept the fog on the ground for a few hours after dawn, but now the sun has broken through and is shining a spotlight on the young chef as he sits planning next week’s star-studded party. Celebrity celebrations are nothing new to Velasco. If he isn’t creating a menu for Barbra Streisand’s birthday party, he’s serving someone like Maria Shriver and hundreds of her guests at a fundraising gala. This party is different. This upcoming bash will mark the opening of Tra di Noi in Beverly Hills—the new restaurant Velasco has created with partners Tarcisio Mosconi and Antonio Alessi. Many of Velasco’s powerful clients are invited: Steven Spielberg and wife Kate Capshaw, Cindy Crawford and husband Rande Gerber, John Travolta and his family, Becks and Posh a.k.a. David and Victoria Beckham, and former Paramount and MGM CEO Frank Mancuso, Sr. Velasco wants to show them the new two-story space at the same time that he wants to introduce Beverly Hills to the magic that is Tra di Noi. “Tra di Noi—it can’t be replicated,” says Velasco shaking his head. “It was very difficult to decide to open a second one.” Ultimately he did decide to do that, but it’s Tra di Noi in a new form. Velasco will have the chance to stretch his talented fingers and work not only in high-end cuisine but also in rustic Italian cooking. Velasco believes every chef should master the basics before experimenting with new avant-garde techniques like molecular gastronomy. He’s done just that. And he wants to prove to his audience that he can shine in both worlds. “That’s why we’re going back to rustic cooking and eating. Once we demonstrate the soulful, comforting foods like polpettini, brasato, and roasted chicken, then we can do more complex and sophisticated dishes.”

So this opening party is important. The food has to reflect his new vision. He could make hundreds of shots of rich, creamy ricotta soup, a rustic dish for which he whips up an emulsion that will suspend the whey-based cheese. He might turn out 30 or 40 focaccia tarts to demonstrate his baking skills. Perhaps small servings of a Sardinian salad with calamari, tomato sauce, and fregola—a toasted, squigglyshaped, pasta that resembles large breadcrumbs. Maybe he’ll even simmer handmade tagliatelle in Barolo wine until the pasta turns pink and tender. Most people have never tried it this way. He could sauce the noodles with a pancetta-parsnipParmesan combination that complements the flavor of the wine. For dessert, maybe he’ll serve Cassata Siciliana—layers of sponge cake, ricotta filling, pistachios and chunks of chocolate. And there must be espresso. Lots of good espresso.

9/13/11 1:25 PM

leFT | Chilean seabass with Martini & Rossi

sauce over a bed of escarole

Below | Ribeye with ramp pesto over roasted

carrots, parsnips, and celery root

BoTTom | Melon geleé with prosciutto foam phoTos By MaTThew FrieD

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Tra di noi

risToranTe & Bar

in The gorgeous new Beverly hills restaurant, Velasco is turning out what he calls alta cucina: sophisticated, complicated, elegant italian food that’s beautiful to look at and a joy to eat.

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Tra di Noi Ristorante & Bar entered the dining scene in Malibu in 1991. Since then, it’s drawn celebrities like Barbra Streisand who celebrates her birthday parties there and Jeremy Piven who never even opens the menu before ordering his favorite dish. Founded by restaurateur Antonio Alessi 20 years ago, Tra di Noi has firmly established itself as a legend alongside Nobu in the Malibu Country Mart. Alessi’s impeccably dressed partner Tarcisio Mosconi has been welcoming patrons there for over 15 years, making sure they enjoy their alfresco lunch on the patio or intimate dinner inside the paparazzi-free dining room. Mosconi discovered Executive Chef and partner Francesco Velasco while dining at Il Grano in West L.A. Many visits to Il Grano and many impressive meals later, Mosconi talked Velasco into coming to Malibu to work his magic on the Italian menu that had changed little since its founding. Velasco tread lightly on the recipes that the regulars had come to love. But at the same time he introduced

a new, more sophisticated style of Italian cooking to the fiercely loyal clientele. Through menu special after menu special, Velasco won their hearts and impressed their palates. In the gorgeous new Beverly Hills restaurant, Velasco is turning out what he calls alta cucina: sophisticated, complicated, elegant Italian food that’s beautiful to look at and a joy to eat. Velasco creates crudo, the Italian version of sushi, and serves it over organic microgreens grown in Malibu. He rolls out handmade pasta sheets and layers them between eggplant and veal ragout for a free-form lasagna. He shaves black truffles over thin-crust pizza smeared with fine olive oil and crushed Italian tomatoes. Obsessing over every detail of each dish, Velasco visits nearby farms, vineyards, fish markets, and olive-oil producers. He researches each product he uses whether it’s squash blossoms, wine, John Dory, or extra-virgin olive oil. He’s a man obsessed with excellent ingredients and will go to great lengths to find the best products for his meals.

9/13/11 1:25 PM

RESTAURANTS City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine.

BEVERLY HILLS THE BAZAAR (Spanish) ............................................. 78 BLVD (American) ............................................................... 68 BOUCHON (French) ...................................................... 72 CHAYA (California) ........................................................... 70 CRUSTACEAN (Pan-Asian) ....................................... 76 CULINA (Italian)............................................................... 72 CUT (Steak).......................................................................... 78 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak)............... 78 IL CIELO (Italian)............................................................. 72 IL FORNAIO (Italian) ................................................... 72 KATE MANTILINI (American) ..............................68 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak) .................. 78 M CAFÉ DE CHAYA (Quick Bites) ........................ 77 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood) ........... 78 MR. CHOW (Chinese) ................................................... 70 NATALEE THAI (Thai)................................................ 78 POLO LOUNGE (California) ...................................... 70 RUTH’S CHRIS (Steak) ............................................... 78 SCARPETTA (Italian) ................................................... 73 SPAGO (California)........................................................... 70 TALÉSAI (Thai) ................................................................ 78 208 RODEO (California) ............................................. 70 URASAWA (Japanese) .................................................. 74 VILLA BLANCA (Italian)........................................... 73 WOLFGANG’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)......... 78

BEVERLY BOULEVARD 3RD STREET MELROSE AVENUE ANGELINI OSTERIA (Italian) .............................. 72 AOC (Mediterranean).................................................... 75 COBRAS & MATADORS (Spanish) .................... 78 COMME ÇA (French) .................................................... 72 EVA RESTAURANT (California) .................................. 70 HATFIELD’S (California) ...........................................70 JAR (American)................................................................... 68 JOAN’S ON THIRD (American) ..........................68 THE LITTLE DOOR (French) .................................. 72 LUCQUES (Mediterranean) .......................................... 75 M CAFÉ DE CHAYA (Quick Bites) ........................ 77 OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian) ...................................... 73 PHILIPPE (Chinese) ..........................................................71 PIZZERIA MOZZA (Italian) .................................... 73 PLAYA (Mexican/Latin)................................................... 76 PROVIDENCE (Seafood) ............................................ 78 RED O (Mexican/Latin)................................................... 76 SIMON L.A. (American) .............................................. 68 SON OF A GUN (Seafood) ....................................... 78 SUSHI ROKU (Japanese)............................................. 74

WATERLOO & CITY (British)..............................70

DOWNTOWN ABURIYA TORANOKO (Japanese) .................... 73 ARNIE MORTON’S (Steak) ..................................... 78 ASBURY FUSION (Eclectic) ......................................71 BOTTEGA LOUIE (Italian) ....................................... 72 CBS SEAFOOD (Chinese) ......................................... 70 CHAYA (California) ........................................................... 70 CHURCH & STATE (French) .................................... 72 CICADA (Italian) .............................................................. 72 DRAGO CENTRO (Italian)....................................... 72 FIRST & HOPE (Club) ...................................................71 KATSUYA (Japanese) ..................................................... 74 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE (French)..................... 72 L.A. PRIME (Steak) ........................................................ 78 LA SERENATA DE GARIBALDI (Mexican) ...... 76 LAZY OX CANTEEN (Brew/Pub)......................... 70 LUKSHON (Pan-Asian) .................................................. 76 MAGNOLIA (American) ............................................... 74 MÁS MALO (Mexican/Latin)....................................... 76 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood) ........... 78 MO-CHICA (Mexican/Latin)........................................ 76 NICK AND STEF’S (Steak)...................................... 78 NOÉ (American) ................................................................. 68 OCEAN SEAFOOD (Chinese) ..................................71 PACIFIC DINING CAR (Steak)............................. 78 PATINA (French)............................................................... 72 PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL (Quick Bites) ......... 77 RIVERA (Mexican/Latin) ............................................... 76 R23 (Japanese) .................................................................... 74 SEOUL JUNG (Korean) ............................................... 75 THE SPICE TABLE (Pan-Asian) ............................. 77 SUGARFISH (Japanese)............................................... 74 TAKAMI SUSHI (Japanese) ....................................... 74 WATER GRILL (Seafood) ........................................... 78 WP24 (Pan-Asian) ............................................................ 77 WURSTKUCHE (Quick Bites).................................... 77

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE

ARNIE MORTON’S (Steak) ..................................... 78 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)........... 78 RESTAURANT AT GETTY (California) ............. 70

BARBRIX (Mediterranean) ........................................... 75 CLEO (Mediterranean) ..................................................... 75 DELPHINE (French) ....................................................... 72 THE GRILL ON HOLLYWOOD (Steak)......... 78 HARD ROCK CAFE (American)............................ 68 THE HUNGRY CAT (Seafood) ................................ 78 IN-N-OUT (Quick Bites)................................................. 77 JITLADA THAI (Thai) ................................................. 78 KATSUYA (Japanese) ..................................................... 74 LAMILL COFFEE (American) .................................. 68 MALO (Mexican/Latin) .................................................... 76 MUSSO & FRANK (American) ................................ 68 PALMS THAI (Thai) .................................................... 78 PUBLIC KITCHEN + BAR (Brew/Pub) ............. 70 ROLLING STONE (American) ................................. 68 SUPPERCLUB (Club) .....................................................71 SUSAN FENIGER’S STREET (Eclectic) .......... 72 TENDER GREENS (Quick Bites).......................... 77 UMAMI BURGER (American) .................................. 68 THE WAFFLE (American) .......................................... 70 YAMASHIRO (Japanese) ............................................. 74

CENTURY CITY

LA BREA/MIDTOWN

BREEZE (California) ........................................................ 70 CRAFT (American) ........................................................... 68

ANIMAL (American)........................................................ 68 CAMPANILE (Mediterranean).................................... 75 CHOSUN GALBEE (Korean)................................... 75 PINK’S HOT DOGS (Quick Bites) .......................... 77 RAY’S & STARK BAR (Mediterranean) .............. 76 SOOT BULL JEEP (Korean) .................................... 75 THE TAR PIT (Club) .......................................................71

BRENTWOOD KATSUYA (Japanese) ..................................................... 74 SUGARFISH (Japanese)............................................... 74 TAVERN (California)......................................................70 VINCENTI RISTORANTE (Italian)..................... 73

BURBANK

CULVER CITY A-FRAME (Eclectic) ..........................................................71 AKASHA (California) ...................................................... 70 FATHER’S OFFICE 2 (Brew/Pub) .....................70 FORD’S FILLING STATION (Brew/Pub)......... 70 FRAÎCHE (Mediterranean)............................................ 75 NATALEE THAI (Thai) ............................................... 78 NATIVE FOODS (Quick Bites) ................................. 77 TENDER GREENS (Quick Bites).......................... 77

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LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD RESTAURANT ROW FOGO DE CHÃO (Steak) ......................................... 78 LAWRY’S PRIME RIB (Steak)............................... 78

MATSUHISA (Japanese)............................................... 74 MEZZE (Mediterranean) ................................................. 75 NOBU (Japanese) .............................................................. 74 THE STINKING ROSE (Italian)............................. 73 TANZORE (Indian) ......................................................... 72

LONG BEACH CAFÉ SEVILLA (Spanish) ....................................... 78 PARKERS’ LIGHTHOUSE (Seafood)................. 78 SIR WINSTON’S (California) .................................... 70

MALIBU CHARLIE’S (American)................................................. 68 CHART HOUSE (Seafood)......................................... 78 DUKE’S MALIBU (Seafood) ..................................... 78 GEOFFREY’S (California) ........................................... 70 GLADSTONE’S MALIBU (Seafood) ................... 78 NOBU MALIBU (Japanese) ....................................... 74 SADDLE PEAK LODGE (American) .................. 68 SAVORY (American) ....................................................... 68 TRA DI NOI (Italian) ..................................................... 73

MARINA DEL REY CHART HOUSE (Seafood)......................................... 78 SUGARFISH (Japanese)............................................... 74 VU (California)...................................................................... 70

PASADENA A/K/A BISTRO (American)....................................... 68 ARROYO CHOPHOUSE (Steak) ......................... 78 BUCA DI BEPPO (Italian) ........................................ 72 ELEMENTS KITCHEN (Eclectic).............................71 IL FORNAIO (Italian) ................................................... 72 KATSUYA (Japanese) ..................................................... 74 KINGS ROW GASTROPUB (Brew/Pub) ......... 70 MAISON AKIRA (Eclectic) ........................................ 72 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)........... 78 NEW CAPITAL SEAFOOD (Chinese).............. 70 PALATE FOOD + WINE (California) ................. 70 PARKWAY GRILL (California)................................. 70 PITA JUNGLE (Mediterranean) ................................ 75 ROSE TREE COTTAGE (British) ......................... 70 ROXOLANA (Eclectic).................................................. 72 THE ROYCE (American) .............................................. 68 RUTH’S CHRIS (Steak) ............................................... 78 SUSHI ROKU (Japanese)............................................. 74 TRATTORIA TRE VENEZIE (Italian)............... 73 VERTICAL WINE BISTRO (American)............ 68

SANTA MONICA BAR PINTXO (Spanish)............................................... 78 BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE (Seafood)........... 78 BOA (Steak)......................................................................... 78 BORDER GRILL (Mexican/Latin) ........................... 76 CAPO (Italian).................................................................... 72 CHINOIS ON MAIN (California) ............................ 70 DRAGO (Italian) ............................................................... 72 FARMSHOP (California) ............................................... 70 FATHER’S OFFICE (Brew/Pub) ..........................70 FIG RESTAURANT (California) .............................. 70 FRAÎCHE (Mediterranean)............................................ 75 GIORGIO BALDI (Italian) ......................................... 72 THE HUNGRY CAT (Seafood) ................................ 78 IL FORNAIO (Italian) ................................................... 72 IVY AT THE SHORE (American) ........................68 LA CACHETTE BISTRO (French) ..............................72 LA VECCHIA (Italian) .................................................. 72 THE LOBSTER (Seafood)........................................... 78 LOCANDA DEL LAGO (Italian)........................... 72 MÉLISSE (French)............................................................ 72 MICHAEL’S (California) ................................................ 70 MONSIEUR MARCEL (French) ............................. 72 PACIFIC DINING CAR (Steak)............................. 78 SUSHI ROKU (Japanese)............................................. 74 TRUE FOOD KITCHEN (American) ................... 68

VALENTINO (Italian).................................................... 73 YANGTZE (pan-asian) ................................................... 77 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British) ...................... 70

SOUTH BAY AKBAR (Indian) ................................................................ 72 BENIHANA (Japanese) ................................................. 74 BUCA DI BEPPO (Italian) ........................................ 72 CHART HOUSE (Seafood)......................................... 78 GINA LEE’S BISTRO (California) ......................... 70 IL FORNAIO (Italian) ................................................... 72 MAR’SEL (California)...................................................... 70 M.B. POST (American) .................................................. 68 McCORMICK & SCHMICK’S (Seafood)........... 78 PETROS (Mediterranean) .............................................. 75 SKY ROOM (American) ................................................ 76 THE VEGGIE GRILL (Quick Bites) ........................ 77

UNIVERSAL CITY BUCA DI BEPPO (Italian) ........................................ 72 CAFE SIERRA (Eclectic)...............................................71 HARD ROCK CAFE (American)............................ 68

VALLEY ASANEBO (Japanese) ................................................... 73 BENIHANA (Japanese) ................................................. 74 BUCA DI BEPPO (Italian) ........................................ 72 FIREFLY (Club)................................................................. 78 FIRENZE OSTERIA (Italian) .................................. 72 KATE MANTILINI (American) ..............................68 KATSU-YA (Japanese) ................................................... 74 SUSHI NOZAWA (Japanese) ................................... 74 UMAMI BURGER (American) .................................. 68

VENICE CHAYA (California) ........................................................... 70 GJELINA (Mediterranean) ............................................ 75 JOE’S (California) .............................................................. 70 PICCOLO (Italian) ........................................................... 73 PRIMITIVO (Spanish) .................................................... 78 THE TASTING KITCHEN (California) ................ 70

WEST HOLLYWOOD ASIA DE CUBA (Eclectic)............................................71 BLT STEAK (Steak) ....................................................... 78 BOA (Steak)......................................................................... 78 CECCONI’S (Italian)...................................................... 72 THE CROSSROADS (Club).......................................71 DOMINICK’S (Italian)................................................... 72 FIG & OLIVE (Mediterranean) ................................... 75 GORDON RAMSAY (Eclectic) ..................................71 IL SOLE (Italian) .............................................................. 72 THE IVY (American)............................................ ..........68 LE CLAFOUTIS (French) ........................................... 72 LUCA FRESH BITES (California) .......................... 70 MONSIEUR MARCEL (French) ............................. 72 NONNA OF ITALY (Italian)..................................... 72 PETROSSIAN (French).............................................. 72 STK (Steak) .......................................................................... 78 TALÉSAI (Thai) ................................................................ 78 TENDER GREENS (Quick Bites).......................... 77 THE VEGGIE GRILL (Quick Bites) ........................ 77 XIV (American) .................................................................... 70

WESTSIDE THE APPLE PAN (Quick Bites)................................ 77 LA SERENATA DE GARIBALDI (Mexican)....... 76 MATTEO’S (Italian) ...................................................... 72 NATIVE FOODS (Quick Bites) ................................. 77 PAPARAZZI (Italian) .................................................... 73 PICCA (Mexican/Latin) ................................................... 76 SOTTO (Italian) ................................................................. 73 SUSHI SASABUNE (Japanese)............................ 74 WESTSIDE TAVERN (California) .......................... 70

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pinktober 2011, hard rock’s signature breast cancer awareness program, embarks on its 12th consecutive year of raising awareness and funds for breast cancer charities around the globe.

For the month of October join us in the fight against Breast Cancer with nightly live music & special events. Benefiting the Noreen Fraser Foundation. | Like us on facebook for event updates. show your support by purchasing these pinktober products exclusively at hard rock locations worldwide and help in the fight against breast cancer.

hollywood • hollywood blvd. • universal citywalk • hardrock.com

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Entertainment Special Events Pacific Standard Time: Art in L.A. 1945–1980 Opening Oct. 1. Cultural institutions in L.A. and beyond unite for this event, which features 60 exhibitions on the birth of the L.A. art scene. Venues include the Getty Center, Fowler Museum at UCLA and Hammer Museum. All participating venues listed online. pacificstandardtime.org los angeles county fair Through Oct. 2 Largest county fair in North America features rides, animals, live music, horse races. Call for hours. $7–$17, under 6 free. Fairplex, 1101 McKinley Ave., Pomona, 909.623.3111 Map southeast of B6 dine l.a. restaurant week Oct. 2–7, 9–14. Some of L.A.’s finest restaurants take part in this biannual event, offering reduced-price, prix fixe meals for lunch and dinner. All participating restaurants listed online. discoverlosangeles.com/restaurantweekv2

Take a Hike (and Bike)

Danny Roman established his tour company Bikes and Hikes L.A. after an inspiring trip abroad. “I decided to start the company after touring Europe on several occasions, seeing so many different bike-touring options and discovering once home that the concept didn’t exist in L.A.,” he says. In addition to providing bike rentals and Spin classes, Bikes and Hikes offers guided tours by bike and foot, including the flagship experience L.A. in a Day, a 32-mile biking and walking tour that guides guests through highlights from Marina del Rey to West Hollywood. Roman also offers tours of celebrity homes and the Hollywood Hills, and adds a jaunt by boat to the Bike and Sail tour. p. 104

queen mary’s dark harbor Oct. 7–9, 14–16, 20–23, 27–31. Halloween event at Queen Mary Ship and Seaport includes mazes, monsters, live music, special effects galore. 7 pm–midnight. $24–39; VIP ticket $50–$60. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.435.3511 Map O16 west hollywood HALLOWEEN costume carnaval Oct. 31. L.A. County’s biggest Halloween event—and one of its biggest annual events, period—is this costume bash in WeHo; live music and entertainment. 6–11 pm. Admission free. Santa Monica Boulevard between La Cienega and Robertson boulevards, West Hollywood, 323.848.6400 Map I12

Theater i’ve never been so happy Oct. 6–23. Genrespanning musical from Austin’s Rude Mechs about star-crossed lovers thwarted by their eccentric parents. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 poor behavior Through Oct. 16. Playwright Theresa Rybeck’s tale about two couples who battle with questions of deception, marriage and fidelity. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 next fall Opening Oct. 25. A gay couple endures in spite of their religious differences until a critical accident forces a confrontation of opposing beliefs. Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., Westwood, 310.208.5454 Map J10 bring it on—The musical Opening Oct. 30. Rival cheerleading squads compete for glory in this musical comedy based on the film. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 IRIS Ongoing. Cirque du Soleil’s newest production, a tribute to film, takes up permanent residence at the Kodak Theatre. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 877.943.4747 Map H13

Music + Dance DOROTHY CHANDLER PAVILION Oct. 1, 6, 9 Los Angeles Opera, Eugene Onegin. Oct 2, 5, 8 L.A. Opera, Cosi Fan Tutte. Oct. 14–16 Scottish Ballet. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 Greek theatre Oct. 1 Elbow, Devotchka. Oct. 4 Beirut, Laetitia Sadier. Oct 5–6 Further, Phil Lesh, Bob Weir. Oct. 7 Merle Haggard, Kris Kristofferson. Oct 13 Daniela

Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 107–110. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Special Events....................94 Theater.................................94 Music + Dance....................94 Sports....................................94

Studio Tapings...................98 Museums............................98 Shopping.............................100 Nightlife...............................101 Attractions..........................94 Tours + Transport.............104 Studio Tours........................97

Mercury. Oct 14 Jason Bonham. Oct. 15 Bryan Ferry, Phenomenal Handclap Band. Oct. 22 Idina Menzel, Pasadena Pops. Oct 26 Celtic Thunder. 2700 N. Vermont Ave., Griffith Park, 323.665.5857 Map V22 hollywood bowl Oct. 7 Incubus. Oct. 8 Blink 182, My Chemical Romance. Oct. 11 Journey, Foreigner. Oct. 22 Robyn, Royksopp. 2301 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.850.2000 Map G13 staples center Oct. 6 Enrique Iglesias. Oct. 8 Keith Urban. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 800.745.3000 Map I15 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Oct. 1–2 Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel. Oct. 4 Los Angeles Philharmonic New Music Group, conductor Otto Tausk. Oct. 6–9 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, violinist Janine Jansen. Oct. 11 The English Concert, conductor Harry Bicket, countertenor Andreas Scholl. Oct. 13–15 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, pianist Yefim Bronfman. Oct. 18 Members of the L.A. Philharmonic, cellist Johannes Moser. Oct. 20–21 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, cellist Johannes Moser. Oct. 22 Angélique Kidjo, Dianne Reeves, Lizz Wright. Oct. 23 Jane Krakowski. Oct. 26 Goran Bregovic and his Wedding and Funeral Orchestra. Oct. 28–30 L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, pianist Richard Goode. Oct. 30 Organist Clark Wilson. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16 THE WILTERN Oct. 1 Dreams Come True. Oct 5 The Smashing Pumpkins. Oct 11 Switchfoot, Anberlin. Oct. 12 Il Volo. Oct. 14 Colbie Caillat. Oct 15, 18 Foster the People. Oct 22 Primus. Oct 29 Matt Nathanson. 3790 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 877.598.8698 Map J13

Sports HOME DEPOT CENTER Oct. 1 Los Angeles Galaxy vs. Real Salt Lake. Oct. 2 Chivas U.S.A. vs. Philadelphia. Oct. 16 Galaxy vs. Chivas U.S.A. Oct. 22 Chivas U.S.A. vs. Seattle. 1000 E. Victoria St., Carson, 310.630.2102 Map M15 STAPLES CENTER Oct. 13 Los Angeles Clippers vs. Atlanta Hawks. Oct. 15 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Hawks. Oct. 16 Lakers vs. Utah Jazz. Oct. 17 Clippers vs. Jazz. Oct. 18 Los Angeles Kings vs. St. Louis Blues. Oct. 21 Clippers vs. Golden State Warriors. Oct. 22 Kings vs. Dallas Stars. Oct. 25 Kings vs. New Jersey Devils. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 800.745.3000 Map I15

Attractions Adamson House 1930s home filled with famed Malibu Potteries tile. Grounds open daily; house W–F 10:30 am–3:30 pm, Sa 11 am–3 pm. $2–$5, under

The Los Angeles Zoo and Botanical Gardens is home to more than 1,100 mammals, birds, amphibians and reptiles from more than 250 species, 29 of which are endangered. p. 96

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Attractions + Museums 6 free. No credit cards. 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.8432 Map west of K7 annenberg community beach houSe Public facility on Santa Monica State Beach with pool, play area, beach volleyball and tennis courts, gardens, cafe. Free tours of Marion Davies Guest House. Daily 8:30 am–8:30 pm. Pool: Su, Tu, Th 10 am–6 pm; M, W, F–Sa 10 am–8 pm. Pool pass: $4–$10, family of four (two youth, two adults) $24; admission to other facilities, free. Parking $3/hour, $8/day. 415 Pacific Coast Hwy., Santa Monica, 310.458.4904 Map L8 aquarium of the Pacific Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Pet the sharks at Shark Lagoon; Lorikeet Forest, Monsters of the Abyss 3-D. Daily 9 am–6 pm. $12.95–$24.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 cataLina exPreSS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island; daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservation recommended. Call for hours. $25.50–$34.25 one way, $51–$68.50 round-trip; under 2, $2–$4. 800.995.4386, catalinaexpress.com cathedraL of our Lady of the angeLS Stunning contemporary cathedral opposite Music Center. M–F 6:30 am–6 pm; Sa 9 am–6 pm; Su 7 am–6 pm. 555 W. Temple St., downtown, 213.680.5200 Map H17 chinatown Ornate architecture, dim sum, shops with Eastern wares. Art and antiques on Chung King Road. Between Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and Bernard Street, Yale and Spring streets, downtown Map G17 deScanSo gardenS North America’s largest camellia collection (34,000 plants amid 20 acres of oaks) and much more, including lilacs, azaleas, irises. 9 am–5 pm daily. $3–$8, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19 diSneyLand Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Recent additions include Finding Nemo Submarine Voyage. Updated Pirates of the Caribbean and Space Mountain. Fireworks, fantastic Fantasmic! continues. Call for hours. Admission (includes all rides and attractions): $68– $76, under 2 free. 1600 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map I10 downtown diSney Twenty acres of admissionfree shopping, dining and nightlife adjacent to theme parks. 1510–1590 S. Disneyland Drive, Anaheim Map I10 egyPtian theatre Restored 1922 Hollywood landmark screens classics, cult favorites, indie films. Excellent Forever Hollywood screens daily. Call for schedule. $5–$10. 6712 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.3456 Map H13 eL caPitan theatre 1926 Spanish-style movie palace screens Disney films new and old. Musical accompaniment to many shows. Call for schedule. $12–$13. VIP admission with reserved seat $25. 6838 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7674 Map H13 farmerS market Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. M–F 9 am–9 pm; Sa 9 am–8 pm; Su 10 am–7 pm. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 goLd cLaSS cinemaS Deluxe dinner-and-a-movie experience: Patrons recline in deluxe seats while being served dinner, cocktails, pillows, blankets during screenings. Daily 11 am–midnight. $19–$29. One Colorado, 42 Miller Way, Pasadena, 626.639.2260 Map Q19 grauman’S chineSe theatre Historic Hollywood venue with walkway of stars’ hand- and footprints in the forecourt. Call for movie schedule. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.464.8111 Map H13 griffith obServatory Iconic attraction overlooking Hollywood. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu–F noon–10

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Attractions + Museums

Untitled, n.d., Miguel Covarrubias* Harry Ransom Humanities Research Center University of Texas at Austin

pm; Sa–Su 10 am–10 pm. Free; donations accepted. 2800 E. Observatory Road, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 guinneSS worLd record muSeum Shrine to amazing achievements. Daily 10 am–midnight. $6.95– $15.95, under 6 free. 6764 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.463.6433 Map H13 hoLLywood waLk of fame Celebs’ names are enshrined in bronze-and-terrazzo stars. Free. Hollywood Boulevard from Gower Street to La Brea Avenue, Hollywood, 323.469.8311 Map H13 hoLLywood wax muSeum Hollywood and pop culture greats in wax. Su–Th 10 am–midnight; F–Sa 10 am–1 am. $8.95–$15.95, $5.95–$12.95 online, under 5 free. 6767 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.462.5991 Map H13

CALIFORNIA CALIFORNIAAFRICAN AFRICANAMERICAN AMERICANMUSEUM MUSEUM Women: Game Changers, Less Known, Here Celebrated Ain’t Ain’tNothing Nothing Like Likethe theReal RealThing: Thing: Through November 6, 2011 How Howthe theApollo ApolloTheater Theater Shaped ShapedAmerican AmericanEntertainment Entertainment June June1 1– –September September4,4,2011 2011

kodak theatre Tour the home of the Academy Awards. Daily 10:30 am–4 pm. $10–$15, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13

*African Diaspora In The Art Of Miguel Covarrubias: Driven By CAGE Color, Betye BetyeSaar: Saar: CAGE Shaped By Cultures

L.a. Live Burgeoning entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Nokia Theatre and Club Nokia; restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 L.a. zoo and botanicaL gardenS Wildlife in parklike setting. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $9–$14, under 2 free. Golden State (5) and Ventura (134) freeways, 5333 Zoo Drive, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 LoS angeLeS county arboretum & botanic garden Peafowl roam the grounds and roost overhead at 127-acre garden. Make your own idyllic route or take the tram tour. Su–F 9 am–5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm); Sa, call for hours. Free third Tuesday of the month. $3–$8, under 5 free. 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222 Map Q22

Through February 26, 2012 and A ANew NewSeries Series ofofAssemblages Assemblages andCollages Collages

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Exposition ForFormore morePark information information gogoto to LA 90037 www.caamuseum.org www.caamuseum.org or orcall call213-744-7432. 213-744-7432. www.caamuseum.org th th Parking Parkingatat3939 and and 213-744-7432 Figueroa Figueroa Streets Streetsand and Parking at 39th and is is$8$8perper vehicle. vehicle. FREE FREEADMISSION! ADMISSION! Figueroa Streets

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madame tuSSaudS hoLLywood Wax museum with some 115 likenesses of celebrities in music, film, sports and more. Costumes provided for photo ops with figures. Call for hours. $18–$25, $14.40–$20 online, under 4 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13

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$10 per vehicle Image: Image: Betye Betye Saar Saar with with TheThe Destiny Destiny FREE&ADMISSION! of of Latitude Latitude Longitude, & Longitude, 2010 2010 Photo Photo byby Jacob Jacob Wheeler Wheeler

Original Works of Native American Indian Jewelry and Art

ocean front waLk Boardwalk with street performers, souvenir vendors. Muscle Beach–adjacent. Along beach between Marine Street and Grand Boulevard, Venice Map N9 oLvera Street Festive open-air Mexican marketplace with restaurants, shops at historic El Pueblo de Los Angeles. Alameda Street between Main and Los Angeles streets, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17 Pacific Park Amusement park on the Santa Monica Pier with rides including a solar-powered Ferris wheel, plus midway games, food vendors, specialty shops. M–Tu noon–7 pm; F–Sa 11 am–midnight; Su 11 am –11 pm. Admission free; rides $3–$5, unlimited pass $15.95–$24.95. 380 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, 310.260.8744 Map L8 queen mary ShiP and SeaPort Historic ocean liner—bigger than the Titanic!—permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Shops, dining, art deco lounge. Daily 10 am–6 pm for self-guided and guided tours. $12.95– $24.95, under 5 free. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.435.3511 Map O16 riPLey’S beLieve it or not! muSeum Three hundred displays feature curiosities gathered by traveler Robert Ripley in the 1930s. Daily 10 am–midnight. $8.99– $14.99, under 5 free. 6780 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.6335 Map H13 ruSSian foxtrot Submarine Tour the Scorpion, moored next to historic Queen Mary ocean liner. Daily

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Attractions + Museums 10 am–6 pm. $9.95–$10.95, under 5 free. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 562.432.0424 Map O16 SAN ANTONIO WINERY Complimentary tastings and tour of the only producing winery in L.A. Restaurant and wine shop on site. Open daily; call for hours. 737 Lamar St., downtown, 323.223.1401 Map G17 SANTA MONICA MOUNTAINS NATIONAL RECREATIONAL AREA Hiking, horseback riding, bird-watching on 150,000 acres. National Park Service Visitor Center open daily 9 am–5 pm (holidays exempt). 401 W. Hillcrest Drive, Thousand Oaks, 805.370.2301 Map west of B1 SIX FLAGS MAGIC MOUNTAIN Theme park has 17 coasters; dozens of attractions; rides including world’s tallest, fastest and longest flying coaster, Tatsu. Call for hours. $34.99– $59.99, under 3 free. 26101 Magic Mountain Pkwy., Valencia, 661.255.4111 Map A2 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Eye-popping dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes boutiques such as Fossil, Guess? and Abercrombie & Fitch, novelty stores and state-of-the-art cinema and IMAX theater. iFLY Hollywood is a simulated sky-diving wind tunnel. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD World’s biggest motion picture/TV studio. Rides include Jurassic Park, The Simpsons Ride and Revenge of the Mummy— the Ride. Tram studio tour includes the new King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. VIP Experience is private guided tour through prop warehouse, working movie sets, soundstages. Call for hours. $66–$74, under 3 free. VIP Experience $259. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377 Map U20

PROFESSIONAL

WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Frank Gehry-designed architectural landmark at the Music Center. Tour options 9/2/11 9:42 AM

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include 45-minute self-guided audio tour narrated by John Lithgow; guided tours at noon and 1 pm; pre-matinee guided tours. Guided tours for 15 or more by reservation. 10 am–2 pm most days. Free. 151 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.4399 Map H16

Studio Tours NBC STUDIOS Seventy-five-minute walking tour; see sets of The Tonight Show With Jay Leno, Days of Our Lives; wardrobe, makeup, special effects, sound effects. M–F 9 am–3 pm. $5–$8.50, under 5 free. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3538 Map T21 PARAMOUNT STUDIOS VIP TOUR Two-hour group tour of the longest-operating and only remaining major studio in Hollywood. Reservation required. Tours M–F (holidays exempt) at 10 am, 11 am, 1 pm and 2 pm. $40. 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14

SEPTEMBER 14-JANUARY 8, 2012

The stories of 20 African American women who fought for equality for all Americans

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE 9786 WEST PICO BLVD., LOS ANGELES, CA 90035

310.553.8403 I www.museumoftolerance.com Developed by Cincinnati Museum Center and organized for travel by the Smithsonian Institution Traveling Exhibition Service. National tour made possible by Ford Motor Company Fund.

SONY PICTURES STUDIOS Two-hour walking tour of working motion picture studio includes sets of television shows and films including Spider-Man. Reservation, photo ID required. M–F 9:30 am–2:30 pm. $33; under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD See listing under Attractions. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 WARNER BROS. STUDIOS Two-hour VIP tour of working movie and TV studio includes backlots, enormous soundstages and costume department, memorabilia museum and observation of filming when possible. VIP tours available. Reservation recommended; photo ID required. M–F 8:20 am–4 pm. $49, under 8 not admitted. 3400 Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.972.8087 Map U20

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Attractions + Museums Studio Tapings audienceS unLimited Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, FOX, NBC and CW. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. Satellite TV Ticket Booth, Universal Studios Hollywood, 818.260.0041, Ext. 1. tvtickets.com Jimmy kimmeL Live Free tickets for live tapings of late-night ABC show. Minimum age 18. Phone line open M–F 1–4 pm. El Capitan Entertainment Center, 6838 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 866.546.6984 Map H13 nbc teLeviSion Reserve seats for sitcoms and The Jay Leno Show day of show only at NBC Ticket Box. Two tickets per person, first come, first served. Advance tickets except The Tonight Show through Audiences Unlimited. Minimum age 16. 3000 W. Alameda Ave., Burbank, 818.840.3537 Map T21 on-camera audienceS Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including American Idol, Family Feud, The Late Late Show, MADtv. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, ocatv.com Paramount StudioS Tickets to tapings of shows offered first come, first served five days in advance and via website. Minimum age 12–18, varies by show. (Dr. Phil tickets, 323.461.7445, Audience@CBSParamount. com.) 5555 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777, paramount.com Map I14

Museums the annenberg SPace for PhotograPhy Ten thousand square feet with digital projection gallery, print exhibit area. Continuing Beauty CULTure. W–Su 11 am–6 pm. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa–Su. Admission free. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.209.4560 Map J11 caLifornia african american muSeum History, culture, art. Continuing The African Diaspora in the Art of Miguel Covarrubias: Driven by Color, Shaped by Cultures; Women: Game Changers, Less Known, Here Celebrated. Ongoing Gallery of Discovery. Tu–Sa 10 am–5 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $8. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, 213.744.7432 Map M8 caLifornia Science center Interactive exhibits for budding scientists. New Ecosystems wing. Continuing 1001 Inventions: Discover the Golden Age of Muslim Civilization; Small World. Ongoing Forty Years of Space Photography; After Life; FADE: The Dark Side of Light. Daily 10 am–5 pm. Permanent exhibition gallery, free; admission for other exhibits and Imax varies. Admission to exhibit galleries free. Parking $8. 700 State Drive, Exposition Park, downtown, 323.724.3623 Map K15 getty center Beautiful travertine-clad hilltop facility houses stunning collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Opening Oct. 1 Greetings From L.A.: Artists and Publics, 1950–1980; Pacific Standard Time: Crosscurrents in L.A. Painting and Sculpture, 1950–1970. Through Oct. 2 A Revolutionary Project: Cuba From Walker Evans to Now. Through Oct. 23 Luminous Paper: British Watercolors and Drawings. Opening Oct. 25 Lyonel Feininger: Photographs, 1928– 1939; Narrative Interventions in Photography. Continuing From Start to Finish: De Wain Valentine’s Gray Column; “In the Beginning Was the Word”: Medieval Gospel Illumination; In Focus: the Sky; Fashion in the Middle Ages; Gods of Angkor: Bronzes From the National Museum of Cambodia. Ongoing New Galleries for Medieval and Renaissance Sculpture and Decorative Arts; La Roldona’s Saint Ginés: The Making of a Polychrome Sculpture. Tu–F, Su 10 am–5:30 pm; Sa 10 am–9 pm. Free. Parking $15, free Sa after 5 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map K7

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Attractions + Museums

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Getty Villa Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Roman and Greek antiquities. Ongoing Molten Color: Glassmaking in Antiquity; Roman Ephebe From Naples. Th–M 10 am–5 pm. Free. Parking $15. Advance timed tickets required. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.440.7300 Map K7 grammy museum Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music across genres, the creative and recording processes, and Grammy Award history. Continuing Say It Loud: The Genius of James Brown; The Beatles LOVE by Cirque du Soleil: A Fifth Anniversary Showcase; Roy Orbison: The Soul of Rock & Roll; Bob Marley, Messenger; Barbra Streisand; Michael Jackson. Daily 10 am–6 pm. $10.95–$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., Suite A245, downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 Hammer Museum Traveling shows and installations and permanent collection. Through Oct. 2 Ed Ruscha: On the Road. Opening Oct. 2 Now Dig This: Art and Black Los Angeles 1960–1980. Through Oct. 9 Shannon Ebner. Continuing Sara Vanderbeek; Yoshua Okón; Linn Meyers. Tu–W, F–Sa 11 am–7 pm, Th until 9 pm, Su until 5 pm. $5–$10. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., Westwood, 310.443.7000 Map J10

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Hollywood Museum Ten thousand artifacts on four floors: costumes such as Robert Pattinson’s and Taylor Lautner’s in Twilight; sets including Hannibal Lecter’s cell, props, photos, movie posters, scripts; and Max Factor’s makeup rooms, where Marilyn Monroe became a blonde and Lucille Ball a redhead. In restored Max Factor Building. Continuing Lucille Ball at 100, I Love Lucy at 60. W–Su 10 am–5 pm. $12–$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens Stellar art, buildings and grounds, children’s garden. Gallery includes Pinkie and The Blue Boy. Opening Oct. 8 Blue Sky Metropolis: The Aerospace Century in Southern California. Continuing The House That Sam Built: Sam Maloof and Art in the Pomona Valley, 1945– 1985. M, W–F noon–4:30 pm; Sa–Su 10:30 am–4:30 pm. $6–$20, under 5 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 Japanese American National MusEum Through Oct. 30 Year of the Rabbit: Stain Sakai’s Usagi Yojimbo. Tu–W, F–Su 11 am–5 pm; Th noon–8 pm. $5–$9, under 6 free. 369 E. 1st St., downtown, 213.625.0414 Map H17 Los Angeles County Museum of Art Diverse premier collections; Broad Contemporary Art Museum and Resnick Pavilion are latest additions. LACMA West nearby. Opening Oct. 1 California Design, 1930–1965: “Living in a Modern Way”; Monet/Lichtenstein: Rouen Cathedrals. Through Oct. 2 Teresa Margolies. Opening Oct. 15 Mural Remix: Sandra de la Loza. Opening Oct. 23 Glenn Ligon: AMERICA. Through Oct. 31 Tim Burton. Continuing Asco: Elite of the Obscure, a Retrospective, 1972–1987; Edward Kienholz, Five Car Stud 1969–1972, Revisited; Ai Weiwei: Circle of Animals/Zodiac Heads. M–Tu, Th noon–8 pm, F until 9 pm; Sa–Su 11 am–8 pm. Closed W. $10–$15, under 18 free. LACMA West free. LACMA, 5905 Wilshire Blvd.; LACMA West, 6067 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 Museum of Contemporary Art Premier contemporary art venue. Opening Oct. 1 Under the Big Black Sun: California Art 1974–1981 (GC). Through Oct. 2 Cy Twombly Tribute: A Scattering of Blossoms & Other Things (GA); George Herms: Xenophilia (Love of the Unknown) (PDC). Through Oct. 10 Common Objects: Pop Art From the Collection (GA); The Personal Is Political: Women Artists From the Collection (GA); Lynda Benglis (GA). Through Oct. 23 Miranda July: Eleven Heavy Things (PDC). Continuing From the Recent Past: New Acquisitions (GA). Ongoing A Selection of Works From MOCA’s Permanent Collection (GA). M, F 11 am–5 pm; Th 11 am–8 pm; Sa–Su 11 am–6 pm. Pacific Design Center, Tu–F 11 am–5 pm, Sa–Su until 6 pm. $5–$10, under 12 free. Free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand

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Ave., downtown; Geffen Contemporary (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Gallery at Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12

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Museum of Tolerance Exhibits examine prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust and humanrights issues. Continuing Para Todos Los Niños: For All the Children. Ongoing Finding Our Families, Finding Ourselves. M–Th 10 am–5 pm, F until 3 pm; Su 11 am–5 pm. $11–$15, under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.553.8403 Map J11 Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County Thirty-three million objects from dino fossils to fish. See paleontologists preparing fossil specimens at Dino Lab. Age of Mammals is the permanent exhibition. New Dinosaur Hall. Continuing Spider Pavilion, with free-roaming spiders. Daily 9:30 am–5 pm. $2–$9, under 5 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., downtown, 213.763.3466 Map K15 Norton Simon Museum Stellar collection of Renaissance to 20th-century masterworks and sculpture garden. Opening Oct. 1 Proof: The Rise of Printmaking in Southern California; The Original Print: An Introduction to Printmaking in the Postwar Period. W–M noon–6 pm. $5–$10; students with photo ID, children under 18 free. 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840 Map Q19 Skirball Cultural Center The American Jewish experience; stunning views. Opening Oct. 27 Women Hold Up Half the Sky. Continuing Masters of Illusion: Jewish Magicians of the Golden Age; Pearls of Wisdom: End the Violence. Ongoing Visions and Values: Jewish Life From Antiquity to America; Noah’s Ark at the Skirball. Tu–F noon–5 pm; Sa–Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–10, children under 2 free. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

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Fred Segal A multitude of international trends since 1968 began in what may be L.A.’s most famous store, an emporium of individually owned boutiques. Café and salon are popular for shoppers and drop-ins. 8100 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.3734; 420 and 500 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.394.9814 Map I13, L8 Glendale Galleria Family-oriented mall with department stores and boutiques including Nordstrom, Crabtree & Evelyn and Vans Colorado Boulevard and Central Avenue, Glendale, 818.240.9481 Map U23 The Grove Popular outdoor center has more than 50 shops, a Barneys CO-OP, Nordstrom and nine restaurants in a setting that suggests a grand old

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THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Huge downtown Glendale hot spot with Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere and trolley from the creators of The Grove. Ninety stores and dining options. Boutiques include a Tiffany & Co. concept store, Kate Spade and Kiehl’s; other draws include Barneys CO-OP and Pacific Theatre cinema. Brand Boulevard and Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map southeast of T23

Fashion District This downtown neighborhood is a bargain hunter’s paradise. More than 1,000 stores sell to the public at 30%–70% discounts on apparel, accessories, textiles and flowers. Between Main and San Pedro streets; Olympic Boulevard and 7th Street, downtown, 213.488.1153 Map J16

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Beverly Center Trend-setting mall near West Hollywood has 160 boutiques (Tiffany & Co., Forever 21, Fendi, Henri Bendel, Prada) and restaurants including the Capital Grille. Anchors include Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. La Cienega and Beverly boulevards, L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12

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Nightlife downtown. Movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are draws. The Wall Street Journal rates concierge services No. 1 in the nation. Adjacent to Farmers Market. 3rd Street and Fairfax Avenue, L.A., 323.900.8080 Map I13

Westside Pavilion Center south of Westwood Village is anchored by Nordstrom and Macy’s. Landmark theater is the country’s most spectacular indie cineplex. 10800 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.474.6255 Map J11

Hollywood & Highland CENTER Home of the Academy Awards’ Kodak Theatre. Tinseltown-themed retail, dining and entertainment center features several restaurants, cinema, high-tech bowling lanes and stores such as Louis Vuitton and Lucky Brand Jeans. Hollywood Boulevard and Highland Avenue, Hollywood, 323.467.6412 Map H13

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Jewelry District Retailers offer 50%–70% savings on gems, watches and fine jewelry. At the St. Vincent’s Jewelry Center (645–650 S. Hill St.), you’ll find 500 jewelry merchants. Between Hill Street and Broadway, from 5th to 8th streets, downtown Map I16

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malibu country mart Outdoor center tucked away in beach town with upscale boutiques such as Ron Herman, James Perse, Madison; galleries, spas, children’s play area. Restaurants include Tra di Noi and Nobu Malibu. 3835 and 3900 Cross Creek Road, Malibu Map northwest of K7 Manhattan Village This mall by the shore features a Diane’s Beachwear as well as a Macy’s and Macy’s Men’s and Home. Concierges assist with taxies, strollers and even lottery tickets. 3200 Sepulveda Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.5555 Map L13 One COlorado Outdoor plaza with boutiques such as Gold Bug, Kate Spade, Juicy Couture, Papyrus, Armani A/X and deluxe movie theater Gold Class Cinemas. Refuel after retail therapy at Italian restaurant Il Fornaio or Sushi Roku. 24 E. Union St., Old Pasadena, 626.564.1066 Map Q19

Paseo Colorado Outdoor shopping promenade near Old Town features Jigsaw London, Tommy Bahama and big bargains on designer clothes at Loehmann’s. 7/27/11 5:36 PM Los Robles Avenue and Colorado Boulevard, Pasadena, 626.795.8891 Map Q20

323-796-8555

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Santa monica place Sleek outdoor mall at one end of Third Street Promenade, two blocks from Santa Monica State Beach. Anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. Fifty boutiques including 7 for All Mankind, CB2 and Barneys CO-OP. Rooftop Dining Deck with food court, six restaurants and gourmet market. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 South Coast Plaza High-end center boasts nearly 300 boutiques, 30 restaurants and several spas. Stores include Chanel, Gucci, Valentino, Chloé, Jimmy Choo, Christian Dior. Concierge at five locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map 6E

ECOTOURISM

BIKE TOURS AND RENTALS HIKING TOURS 8743 Santa Monica Blvd West Hollywood, CA 90069

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Sunset Plaza Upscale row of boutiques and sidewalk cafes is L.A.’s Euro hang. Calypso, Catherine Malandrino, Chez Bop, Ole Henriksen spa and H. Lorenzo stores. 8600–8700 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood Map H12 Third Street Promenade Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes Zara, French Connection, Restoration Hardware, kiosks and a wide array of very entertaining street performers. 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, Santa Monica Map L8 Two Rodeo Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features Versace, James Elliot and other high-end boutiques, plus restaurants including 208 Rodeo and salon services. At Rodeo Drive and Wilshire Boulevard, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 Westfield Century City Sleek open-air mall with more than 175 stores, including Bloomingdale’s, Macy’s and Tiffany & Co. Luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen, beautifully designed food court atrium and terrace. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Century City, 310.277.3898 Map J11

THE ABBEY Fixture of the WeHo gay scene serves flavored martinis galore. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 ALIBI ROOM Modern neighborhood bar; serves food from Kogi, a trendy Korean barbecue truck. 12236 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.390.9300 Map M10 AKBAR Gay bar is a “neighborhood oasis” with Moroccan murals, mellow music. 4356 Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.665.6810 Map W23 Angel city brewing New. Award-winning microbrewery in a brick-clad industrial building. 216 S. Alameda St., downtown, 213.622.1261 Map I17 the association The gang from Bar Copa and the Room turn out another nightlife mainstay. 110 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.627.7385 Map I16 barbarella bar Black, gray and scarlet-themed décor and 10-ounce martinis. 2609 N. Hyperion Ave., Silver Lake, 323.644.8000 Map W23 BAR MARMONT Dreamy bar next door to historic Chateau Marmont. 8171 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.0575 Map H12 Barney’s Beanery Route 66 roadhouse bar. 8447 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.654.2287; 1351 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.656.5777; 250 N. 1st St., Burbank, 818.524.2912 Map H12, M8, A3 basement tavern Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.392.4956 Map M8 bigfoot lodge Kitschy log-cabin-themed watering hole. 3172 Los Feliz Blvd., Atwater Village, 323.662.9227; Bigfoot West, 10939 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.287.2200 Map northeast of V23, M11 THE BRIG Former dive bar has new look. DJ on weekends. 1515 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.399.7537 Map N9 Broadway Bar 1940s glam. Huge circular bar downstairs; lounge upstairs. 830 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.614.9909 Map I16 caña RUM BAR at the doheny Premium rum bar with some 140 small-batch rums and cigar pairings. 714 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.745.7090 Map I16 Canter’s Kibitz Room Live music nightly; attached to beloved deli. 419 Fairfax Ave., West Hollywood, 323.651.2030 Map I13 CHLOE Parisian-inspired lounge nearby Third Street Promenade. 1449 2nd St., Santa Monica, 310.899.6999 Map L8 city tavern New. Brews, California wines and cocktails. Booths outfitted with computerized craft brew taps; patrons pour their own. 9739 Culver Blvd., Culver City, 310.838.9739 Map L11 the colony The Hamptons meet Hollywood at this seaside-styled club. 1743 N. Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.525.2450 Map H14 copa d’oro Design-your-own cocktails from a list of farmers-market ingredients. 217 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.576.3030 Map L8

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Nightlife corkbar Wine bar focuses on California wineries; 40-something wines by the glass. 403 W. 12th St., downtown, 213.746.0050 Map J15 CROWN BAR The team behind Winston’s and tiny Dime opens lounge with Old (West) Hollywood décor. 7321 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.882.6774 Map H13 Drai’s Vegas nightlife king Victor Drai’s flashy rooftop spot. W Hollywood, 6250 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.962.1111 Map H14 eagle rock brewery Family-run microbrewery with tasting room. 3056 Roswell St., Eagle Rock, 323.257.7866 Map northeast of W23 THE ECHO Hip Echo Park dance club books local and indie bands. DJs, dancing; Echoplex, with separate entrance, is downstairs. 1822 Sunset Blvd., Echo Park, 213.413.8200; Echoplex, 1154 Glendale Blvd., Echo Park, 213.413.8200 Map G16

Authentic Thai Chinese and Sushi Bar Dining & Outdoor Patio

THE EDISON Posh renovated power plant. Get there early—especially for the 35-cent cocktail offered Thursdays, 5–7 pm. Dress code. 108 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.613.0000 Map H17 1886 Artisan cocktails inside retro restaurant the Raymond. 1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena, 626.441.3136 Map S19 EL REY THEATRE Hot indie bands play art deco theater on Miracle Mile. 5515 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.936.6400 Map J13 harvard & stone Fine cocktails in a grittychic industrial space. 5221 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.466.6063 Map W22 Hemingway’s Sumptuous library-styled lounge. 6356 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.469.0040 Map H14YANGTZE_WLA-0910v1.indd 1

1333 3rd St. Promenade Santa Monica

310.260.1994 FAX 310.260.1944

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high Boutique hotel’s rooftop bar with 360-degree views of Venice Beach. Hotel Erwin, 1697 Pacific Ave., Venice, 310.452.1111 Map N9 Hotel CafE Tiny gem offers live rock music. 16231/2 Cahuenga Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.2040 Map I14 House of Blues Name bands in faux bayou setting. 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.5100 Map H12 h. wood Comfy lounge with cocktails ‘n’ chess; open during day as coffee shop. 1738 N. Orange Drive, Hollywood, 323.871.2262 Map H13 Hyde SBE lounge has spawned a duo of local offshoots. Reservation recommended. 8029 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.4933; Hyde at Staples Center, 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7326; Hyde Beach at Gladstone’s, 17300 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades 310.454.3474 Map I14, I15, northwest of K7 JaMES’ BEACH Pickup scene, super food. 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice, 310.823.5396 Map N9 la descarga Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservation recommended. 1159 N. Western Ave., Hollywood, 323.466.1324 Map east of H14 LARGO AT THE CORONET Comedy and music. Reservation needed for shows. 366 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.855.0350 Map I12 las perlas Festive tequila and mezcal bar with sophisticated cocktails. 107 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.988.8355 Map I16 Laugh Factory Famed comedy nightclub. 8001 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.656.1336; 151 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.2844 Map H12

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Nightlife Look for our helpful Downtown Ambassadors for maps and information!

SEE 10,000 REAL SHOWBIZ TREASURES The Most Extensive Collection of Hollywood Memorabilia In the World! Tour the historic Hollywood photo gallery, walk through Hannibal Lector’s jail cell. See Marilyn Monroe’s Million Dollar Dress, Elvis, I Love Lucy, Superman, Star Trek,Transformers, Twilight, Glee, High School Musical and more SPECIAL EXHIBIT: June 15 - Nov 30 “Lucille Ball at 100, ‘I Love Lucy’ at 60” The Hollywood Museum exhibit celebrates the milestone birthdays of America’s favorite comedienne and TV’s greatest comedy series including the genius of Desi Arnaz and Desilu. See costumes, props, personal items, letters, inventions, posters, remembering the careers and romance of Hollywood’s lovebirds, Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz.

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Wed. - Sun. 10am - 5pm Admission: $15 Adults $12 Seniors & Kids under 12

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We Accept CityPass and Go! Los Angeles

@DTSantaMonica

TheHollywoodMuseum.com

Downtown Santa Monica

Near SE Corner of Hollywood Blvd.

1660 N. Highland Ave.

323.464.7776

Library bar Classy nook with book theme is after-work go-to. 630 W. 6th St., downtown, 213.614.0053 Map H16 The Otheroom Microbrews and wines by the glass, New York City-style. 1201 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.6230 Map N9 PLayhouSe hoLLywood Features entertainment from burlesque dancers and acrobats. 6506 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.656.4800 Map H14 PourtaL Self service, pay-by-the-pour Enomatic dispensers; great bar bites, cheeses. 104 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7693 Map L8 the roger room Hidden speakeasy with creative cocktails. 370 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.854.1300 Map J12 the roxy Historic rock ‘n’ roll venue on the strip. 9009 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.2222 Map H12 ruSh Street Culver City’s full of wine bars, but this huge Chicago-style hangout has all the libations. 9546 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.837.9546 Map L11 Seven grand Whiskey bar with tongue-incheek hunt-club décor. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16 Skybar Chic open-air roost with a view at the Mondrian hotel. Reservations required. 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.848.6025 Map H12 the SPare room Lounge-cum-rec room with bowling lanes. Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.8882 Map H13 the Standard downtown Rooftop bar with panoramic city views, pool, vibrating red waterbeds. 550 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.892.8080 Map I16 the Standard hoLLywood Lounge with swinging seats, glowing purple walls. 8300 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.9090 Map H12 Stone roSe Lounge Rose-hued lounge at Sofitel hotel. 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.278.5444 Map I12 thirSty crow Classy whisky and bourbon bar. 2939 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, 323.61.6007 Map south of W23 troPicana bar Poolside hot spot at the Roosevelt Hotel. 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.7000 Map H13 troubadour Historic spot books up-and-coming alt-rock and local bands. 9081 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.276.6168 Map H12 trouSdaLe Sumptuous club from nightlife guru Brent Bolthouse. 9229 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.7500 Map H11 vamPire Lounge & taSting room New. Gothic wine bar with Vampire Vineyards wines, small plates and cheeses. 9865 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.826.7473 Map I11 the varniSh The mixing of Prohibition-era cocktails is an art form at this bar in the back of Cole’s diner. 118 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.622.9999 Map I17 voyeur Provocative, Eyes Wide Shut-inspired lounge; burlesque shows. 7969 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.255.1111 Map I13 wurStkÜche Exotic sausage and beer hall is a popular, boisterous neighborhood hangout. Try the duck-bacon-jalapeño frank. 800 E. Third St., downtown, 213.687.4444 Map I17

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Tours +Transport

4 wALk oF FAMe ATTrACTioNS

X BAR Indoor-outdoor playpen for CAA and ICM talent agents. Hyatt Regency Century Plaza, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 310.228.1234 Map J11

Tours + Transport ANOTHER SIDE OF LOS ANGELES TOURS A wide variety of focused tours, organized by interest—i.e. whale watching, shopping, celebrity homes—or mode of transportation (kayak, Segway, horseback, helicopter). 1102 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 800.311.8987

See it all

for leSS save 46%

SkiP MoST TiCkeT LiNeS Good For uP To 9 dAYS

AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations. Nationwide connections, multiple-day rail passes. Stations in Burbank, downtown (Union Station), Long Beach, Pasadena and Van Nuys. The Coast Starlight connects L.A. to Ventura, Santa Barbara, San Francisco, Portland and Seattle. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals with pickup service. Hollywood, 323.822.0969; Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; LAX, 310.670.2020; Marina del Rey, 310.862.1900

Starline Movie Stars’ Homes Tour

BEVERLY HILLS TROLLEY TOUR Forty-minute tour of landmarks, attractions; departs from Rodeo Drive and Dayton Way. Call for schedule. $5–$10. 310.285.2438 Map J11 BIG BLUE BUS Santa Monica city bus line covers the Westside. Well-kept environmentally friendly buses burn cleaner gas. 50¢–$2. 310.451.5444, bigbluebus.com BIKES AND HIKES L.A. Biking and/or hiking tours of highlights from Santa Monica to Hollywood in customizable or preset itineraries. Exclusive Bike & Hike Sail Adventure includes all three activities. Half- or full-day bike rentals. 8743 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.796.8555 Map I12

Madame Tussauds Hollywood

CALIFORNIA YELLOW CAB Transportation in sedans, town cars, minivans to/from airports, restaurants, nightlife, attractions, shopping destinations. 877.935.5692 CITYPASS Hollywood CityPass offers discounted admission to Starline Movie Stars Homes Tour, Behindthe-Scenes Hollywood walking tour with Red Line Tours, Hollywood Wax Museum and either the Kodak Theatre tour or Hollywood Museum access. $59, ages 3–11 $39, under 3 free. Purchase pass at attractions. Southern California CityPass ($259) includes admission to theme parks from L.A. to San Diego. 888.330.5008, citypass.com

Red Line Tours’ Hollywood Behind-the-Scenes

EAGLE RIDER Motorcycle rentals from top brands such as Harley-Davidson, Honda, BMW; tours offered. ATVs, watercrafts also available. 4110 Lincoln Blvd., Marina del Rey, 310.302.1239; 11860 S. La Cienega Blvd., Hawthorne, 310.536.6777; 2125 E. Spring St., Long Beach, 562.426.1106 Map N9, C1 and N16 GLITTERATI TOURS Private tours at locations across the county and beyond include Coastal Access (beach communities), Underbelly L.A. (local scandals and infamous crime scenes) and Just the Hills (celebrity homes). Reservation required. 310.720.3809, glitteratitours.com DOWNTOWN ART WALK Pedestrians fill the streets of downtown for this self-guided gallery tour. Art Walk Shuttle available from 6–10 p.m. Second Thursday of every month, noon–9 p.m. Free. 213.624.6212, downtownartwalk.com LOS ANGELES CONSERVANCY Self-drive and walking tours with a focus on architecture. More than a dozen fascinating tours focus variously on Broadway’s historic theater district, the Millennium Biltmore Hotel, Los Angeles City Hall and downtown’s central business district. Call for specialty tours. 213.623.2489 Map B3

Your choice of Kodak Theatre Guided Tour or The Hollywood Museum

BuY CiTYPASS AT THeSe HoLLYwood ATTrACTioNS

oNLY

3-11

CityPASS.com

Atlanta Boston Chicago Houston New York City Philadelphia San Francisco Seattle Southern California Toronto 888-330-5008 Pricing and programs are subject to change.

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Tours +Transport los angeles helicopters Helicopter “flightseeing tours” of the coast, Bel Air, Hollywood, downtown and more; excursions to Temecula Wine Country, Catalina Island. Heliports in Long Beach, San Pedro, Hawthorne. 562.377.0396, lahelicopters.com malibu Discovery tours Themed tours in and around Malibu include the six-hour Malibu Wine Trail Tour with wine tastings, Sunrise Hiking Tour, Malibu Whale Watching & Celebrity Homes Boat Tour and Malibu Celebrity Lifestyle Tour. 310.393.6555, malibugrapes.com melting pot FOOD tours Tasting tours of foodie destinations such as Farmers Market or a selection of restaurants. Private tours available. Reservation required. $49–$59. 424.247.9666; tickets, 800.979.3370, meltingpottours.com METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach. Underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to Pasadena; Blue Line from Union Station to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach. $6 day pass. 800.266.6883, metro.net Metrolink Regional train system connects Los Angeles County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown Los Angeles. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com olympic rent-a-car Luxury sedans and exotics outfitted with Sirius and XM satellite radio service. Cars on offer include those by Maserati, Ferrari, Audi, Bentley and Porsche. 9244 W. Olympic Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.757.6501 Map K12 Starline Tours Movie Stars’ Home Tour, Trolley Fun Tour, Grand Tour of L.A. New TMZ Hollywood Tour is a multimedia experience highlighting scenes of celebrity scandals. Prices vary. Tours begin at Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131 Map H13 Take My Mother Please Enthusiastic, “curly headed” Arkansas native packs up to five of your visiting relatives (or other VIPs) in a new hybrid SUV for customized tour of “gloriously unusual” sights. 323.737.2200 tourific escapes Husband-and-wife team offer sightseeing and food tours such as Hollywood Sites and Bites and Chocolate Indulgence. Prices vary. 424.248.8687, tourificescapes.com tour du jour Themed and customized tours, mainly by car. Travel from the Santa Monica Mountains to the shore on the Westside Story tour, or visit the burial sites of celebs on the Hollywood Chills tour. Prices vary. 9663 Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.2929, tourdujour.net Map I11 Urban Shopping Adventures Group tours of Melrose Heights, downtown Fashion District. Transportation, shopping tips, maps, goody bags. $36–$54. 213.683.9715 Map I1

where?

Log on anywhere. WhereLA.com WHERE LOS ANGELES 105

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GO METRO Despite what you may have heard, you can get to many Los Angeles attractions without a car. Metro is the nation’s second-largest public transportation agency, operating 2,200 buses and five rail lines, including a subway that can take you from downtown to Hollywood in about 15 minutes. Whether you’re interested in seeing stars along the legendary Hollywood Walk of Fame, catching rays at Santa Monica Beach or touring any number of L.A. landmarks, Metro can take you there.

Where to Start

Use the Trip Planner at metro.net or call 323.GO.METRO for customized travel itineraries. Note that some popular attractions served by Metro Rail are listed to the right.

Fares

Metro’s base fare is $1.50. Pay each time you board a Metro bus (drivers don’t carry change, so you’ll need exact fare) or at a self-service ticket vending machine when entering Metro Rail stations. For complete information, check metro.net. Two children under the age of 5 may travel free with each fare-paying adult. Eating and drinking is not permitted on any Metro bus or train. Note: Metro has installed turnstiles at many Metro Rail stations; others simply operate on the honor system. However, fare inspectors randomly check passengers for valid tickets or passes. You may never be checked, but if you are and you don’t have proof of valid fare, the inspector may issue a citation and you may be fined.

Hours

Most bus and rail lines start around 4 a.m. and keep running past midnight. But they’re less frequent in the late evening, so check the timetables at metro.net regarding your return trip.

Metro Rail Destinations

Here’s a sampling of attractions that are within easy walking distance of Metro Rail stations: METRO RED/PURPLE LINE Union Station • Olvera Street

Civic Center • Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels • Museum of Contemporary Art • Music Center • Walt Disney Concert Hall 7th Street/Metro Center • Macy’s Plaza (dining, shops) Hollywood/Vine • Capitol Records Tower • Hollywood Walk of Fame • Pantages Theatre Hollywood/Highland • Grauman’s Chinese Theatre • Hollywood & Highland (dining, shops) • Kodak Theatre Universal City • Gibson Amphitheater • Universal CityWalk (dining, shops) • Universal Studios Hollywood North Hollywood • El Portal Center for the Arts • NoHo Arts District (dining, shops, theatres)

METRO BLUE LINE

Pico • Los Angeles Convention Center • STAPLES Center/L.A. LIVE 103rd Street • Watts Towers Transit Mall • Long Beach Aquarium of the Pacific • Pine Avenue (dining, shops) • Queen Mary

METRO GOLD LINE

Little Tokyo/Arts District • Japanese American National Museum Memorial Park • Norton Simon Museum Lake Avenue • Pasadena Playhouse SEE THE METRO ROUTE MAP ON PAGE 111

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things we love Los Angeles

The “L.A. in a Day” bicycle tour from Bikes and Hikes L.A. p. 104

Seeing concerts at the Autry National Center in Griffith Park. 323.667.2000

The new Dinosaur Hall at Natural History Museum of L.A. County in Exposition Park. p. 100

Macarons and coffee from Bouchon Bakery in Beverly Hills. 310.271.9910

The ostrich strip steak at BOA in West Hollywood. p. 78

Bellying up to the ballet bar for a workout at Cardio Barre Beverly Hills. 424.777.0032

The Shu Uemura Hair Ceremony treatment at Rossano Ferretti Hairspa in Beverly Hills 310.598.6780

Hiking the trails in Will Rogers State Historic Park in Pacific Palisades. 310.454.8212

Juice and a messy chili dog from Papaya King in Hollywood. 323.871.8799

Handmade ballet flats from Pretty Ballerinas in Beverly Hills. 310.550.2424

Market-fresh California cuisine from Jiraffe in Santa Monica. 310.917.6671

Made-in-America menswear at Alex Maine in West Hollywood. 323.798.4953

Brunch with bottomless mimosas at BoHo in Hollywood. 323.465.8500

Going sailing in Marina del Rey. p. 38

Carlos Falchi tote bags from Step Shoes in Santa Monica. 310.899.4409

Getting an elaborate braid from the Braid Bar at Nine Zero One Salon in West Hollywood. 310.855.9099 The art of Tim Burton at Los Angeles County Museum of Art in the Miracle Mile District. p. 99

Ice cream treats from Sweet Rose Creamery in Brentwood. 310.260.2663

where in the world

The Movie Star Homes Loop tour from CitySights L.A. 866.361.8999

Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com United States Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Pisco cocktails and contemporary Peruvian cuisine at Picca in West L.A. p. 68 The signature Bellini at Mr. C Restaurant in Beverly Hills. 310.226.6245 Bags from emerging designers at Arm Candy Handbag Boutique in Santa Monica. 310.392.7492 The Jungle Garden at the Huntington Library, Art Collections, and Botanical Gardens in San Marino. p. 99

Pint-size fashions at Kid Firefly in Venice. 310.450.6283 Afternoon tea from Jin Patisserie in Venice. 310.399.8801 Sipping cocktails amid skyscrapers at Perch lounge downtown. 213.802.1770 Seeing concerts at Nokia Theatre L.A. Live downtown. 213.763.6030 Getting the Ona Polish at Ona Spa on Beverly Boulevard. 323.931.4442 Elie Saab Le Parfum and other beauty goodies at Bloomingdale’s in Santa Monica Place. p. 101 “Game night for adults” at Vodvil lounge in the Fairfax District. 323.951.0406 This year, we expand our list! For the complete rundown of 75 things we love, go to wherela.com/75-things

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore Canada Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg Europe Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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Moonstruck Astronomical wristwatch. Self-winding. Moon phases. Platinum case. Water-resistant to 100 m. Leather strap with folding buckle. Limited Edition of 500 pieces. W W W . U LY S S E - N A R D I N . C O M

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