WHERE San Diego Magazine Summer 2012

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SUMMER 2012 WHERESD.COM

San Diego

SUMMER OF ADVENTURE

FROM AERIAL COMBAT TO ZEBRA ENCOUNTERS, WE’VE GOT YOUR SUMMER THRILLS COVERED

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where San Diego Summer 2012 the guide 50 DINING Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

61 ENTERTAINMENT Festivals, performing arts and sports

68 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Landmarks, theme parks and exhibitions

71 SHOPPING The best retail destinations

72 NIGHTLIFE Hot clubs, lounges and cocktail bars

74 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around

76 MAPS Navigate the county

city tours

20

Chino Farms tomato salad at Market

where now

features

6 Dining + Drinks Newly opened restaurants have locals buzzing in downtown and even in sleepy North County. Plus: San Diego’s sandwich of the moment.

12 Adventures in Vacationing We’ve rounded up summer’s best air, land and sea adventures, plus animal encounters, cultural escapades and more.

8 Culture Time-warp back to Merry Olde England with the Old Globe’s Summer Shakespeare Festival; get immersed in Isaac Julien’s multimedia work at MCASD. 10 Where to Find It Summer fashion is all about bold colors and daring statements.

20 At the Mercy of the Chef Who needs menus? Tasting menus put adventurous eaters in the capable hands of San Diego’s most sought-after chefs

BY WILL CARLESS

44 Guide to the Greens Get the 411 on some of San Diego’s top golf courses.

24 26 28 30 34 36 38 42

Downtown La Jolla Beach Cities Uptown North Coast Old Town Balboa Park Baja California

ALSO INSIDE 5 HOT DATES 80 30 THINGS WE LOVE

ON THE COVER Kiteboarding is like wakeboarding, paragliding and windsurfing all in one, and it’s just one of the many adrenalinepumping thrills on offer this season in San Diego. For 18 other adventurous ideas, turn to p. 12.

PHOTO BY BRYAN ELKUS/LIQUID FORCE KITES

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CRAIG ANDERSON

V I S I T O U R SA N D I EG O R E TA I L STO R E S QUIKSILVER GASLAMP

QUIKSILVER | ROXY 1111 PROSPECT, LA JOLLA

(619) 234-3125

(858) 459-1267

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ONE

o c e a n where p l a n e t a r t i s t

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On the Web: WhereSD.com publisher Jeff Levy eDiTOr Maya Kroth ArT DireCTOr Bree Berri

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September 2, 2012 12-4pm Wyland Galleries | 855 W. Harbor Drive, #52 | San Diego, CA 92101 | 800-WYLAND-5 Gallery Hours: Open Daily, 10am – 9pm www.wyland.com Follow Wyland *Bring this ad to Wyland Galleries San Diego for a free Wyland print. Valid though August 31, 2012.

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Contact: Jordan fraser, phone: 619.260.5599, e-mail: Jordan.fraser@WheresD.com © 2012 Southern California Media Group. All Rights reserved published by southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions.

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Hot Dates Summer 2012

WHAT’S SIZZLING IN SECONDS FLAT

ONGOING CLASSICAL MUSIC FESTS The 24th annual Mainly Mozart returns June 1-24, while La Jolla SummerFest (July 31-Aug. 24) features Branford Marsalis and Pablo Ziegler. The Athenaeum’s Summer Festival celebrates Claude Debussy with pianist Gustavo Romero, Sundays in July. p. 65-66 JUNe 3-Sept. 30 SHAKESPEARE FESTIVAL The Old Globe performs Richard III, As You Like It and Inherit the Wind in nightly repertory on its outdoor stage. p. 61 JUNe 8-JULY 4 SAN DIEGO COUNTY FAIR Find carnival rides, midway games, live bands, a beer festival and fried food galore at this popular annual event. p. 61 ONGOING SUMMER POPS The San Diego Symphony loosens its tie with a summer lineup that celebrates the music of Michael Jackson and the Legend of Zelda video game, plus Roberta Flack, Wilson Phillips and more. p. 67 ONGOING BASEBALL The MLB’s San Diego Padres battle the Seattle Mariners (June 22-24), Colorado Rockies (July 20-22), New York Mets (Aug. 3-5) and Chicago Cubs (Aug. 6-8), among others, at their home stadium, Petco Park. p. 67

Del Mar Racetrack

JULY 18-Sept. 5

Off to the races Opened in 1937 by Bing Crosby, the Del Mar Racetrack has been a celebrity hotspot for 75 years, hosting anyone from Lucille Ball and Desi Arnaz to the stars of Entourage. The track’s anniversary season kicks off July 18 with an Opening Day celebration that’s expected to attract close to 50,000 of the town’s top socialites, scenesters and sports buffs, all fashionably clad in seersucker suits, sundresses and ostentatious hats—the more outrageous, the better. Throughout the seven-week season, the racing circuit’s top jockeys will ride championship ponies to victory in big-ticket events like the Pacific Classic (Aug. 26), with its million-dollar purse, while attendees enjoy special events including a chili cookoff (Aug. 4) and Friday post-race rock concerts. p. 67 HATS OFF Get your opening day headgear at the Village Hat Shop, which carries toppers ranging from dainty fascinators and cloches to wide-brimmed creations festooned with feathers, ribbons, beading and bows. 3821 Fourth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.683.5533 or 853 W. Harbor Drive, Seaport Village, 619.233.7236

Y

JULY 4 INDEPENDENCE DAY Packed beaches by day, fireworks by night on the Big Bay, at SeaWorld, on Coronado and elsewhere. p. 61 JULY 12-15 COMIC-CON INTERNATIONAL S.D.’s nerdiest party brings blockbuster movie premieres, comicbook signings, zombie walks and costumed fanboys to the Convention Center. p. 61 JULY 20-22 SAN DIEGO PRIDE FESTIVAL Two-day LGBT festival in Balboa Park features a parade, music, dancing, comedy, beer gardens and more. p. 61 aUG. 12 KISS & MÖTLEY CRÜE The ‘80s are back as Gene Simmons, Tommy Lee and friends bring the rock to Cricket Wireless Amphitheater. p. 65 aUG. 13 SAN DIEGO MUSIC AWARDS Local talent is recognized with an awards show to benefit music education in S.D. schools. p. 61 aUG. 23-26 RINGLING BROS. AND BARNUM & BAILEY CIRCUS Four-ton elephants, aerial acrobats, kungfu masters and more wow fans at the Valley View Casino Center. p. 61 ONGOING HUMPHREY’S CONCERTS BY THE BAY Summer concert series features top jazz, rock, folk and other acts performing on a gorgeous bayside stage. p. 66

Booze and softball meet under the summer sun at the Old Mission Beach Athletic Club’s quirky Over-the-Line Tournament, held over consecutive weekends in July. p. 67

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where now San Diego

The best in entertainment, shopping and dining.

» DInInG + DRInKS

sexy and scandalous San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter wasn’t always the welcoming, family-friendly visitor attraction you see today. Once upon a time, the Gaslamp was a rough-and-tumble neighborhood full of gambling halls, saloons and houses of ill repute, and it’s to this scandalous era that newly opened restaurant Red Light District pays homage. Housed in a century-old building, RLD’s Frenchboudoir-style décor centers on a square bar/social area, a floor-to-ceiling white oak wine cellar, dripping six-foot crystal chandeliers, antique furniture and retro-inspired photographs—all bathed in signature red neon, of course. In the kitchen, Chef Jason Maitland oversees a global menu that fuses French and Asian flavors with American comfort food (think: roasted bone marrow and salade Lyonnaise with poached egg and pancetta). 409 F St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.255.2800

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Cocktails at Union Kitchen & Tap

THE LOCAL Things don’t change much in sleepy North County, but Union Kitchen & Tap is one newcomer the natives have welcomed with open arms. As the name implies, this is a watering hole for the working man, albeit one with cosmopolitan tastes. Here you’ll find interesting beer, craft cocktails, boutique wines and tavern-style grub, minus the hoity-toity attitude. Under soaring ceilings made from reclaimed wood, a wall-sized photograph of union laborers raises a pint to you while a giant chalkboard opposite lists the day’s libations. Exposed brick walls and industrial accents add to the atmosphere, and large roll-up garage doors let in the bustle of Highway 101, making for great people-watching. Choose from 20 rotating taps of mostly local brews to wash down a bison burger or sweet potato poutine, then loosen your collar and let happy hour begin. 1108 S. Coast Highway 101, Encinitas, 760.230.2337

Hot Sammy: The Banh Mi Colonialism has its share of negative consequences, but more often than not, food isn’t one of them. Exhibit A: The banh mi, an impossibly delicious sandwich from Vietnam that would’ve never been invented were it not for French imperialists foisting baguettes upon the people. Made from a baguette stuffed with meat (often pork) and topped, typically, with pickled daikon radish, carrots, cilantro, cucumbers and either jalapeños or a spicy sauce, the banh mi’s popularity has recently been on the rise Stateside, finally arriving in San Diego. Find it onboard Hoangies Truck (@hoangies on Twitter), a food truck that traffics exclusively in banh mi, serving up pepper

steak, pork shoulder, garlic chicken and tofu versions in a fluffy baguette with spicy aioli sauce, French butter and all the fixins. Carnitas Snack Shack’s banh mi special, offered about once a week, drips with the richness of housemade pork sausage and Japanese mayonnaise, hidden inside along with garlic, pickled serrano peppers and pork pâté (2632 University Ave., North Park, 619.294.7675).

MIHO Gastrotruck (@mihogastrotruck) also runs an occasional banh mi special using braised organic pork belly tucked inside a locally baked baguette that’s been rubbed with sesame aioli, in a most scrumptious meeting of East and West.

MIHO Gastrotruck’s banh mi

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whERE now San

Diego

» CULTURE

Jay Whittaker in last year’s production of Amadeus at the Old Globe

Once again this year, the Old Globe’s popular Summer Shakespeare Festival shakes things up a bit by throwing one non-Bard play into the mix with two Shakespeare classics.

The festival’s three summer productions are performed in nightly repertory in the Globe’s open-air Lowell Davies Festival Theatre, which makes audiences feel as if they’ve been transported to Merry Olde England (albeit a slightly warmer version).

This summer’s features include Richard III (in previews from June 3) and As You Like It (in previews from June 10), both starring returning actor Jay Whittaker and helmed by festival artistic director Adrian Noble, who recently directed the world premiere stage version of The King’s Speech.

Renowned British director Lindsay Posner, fresh off the West End’s hit revival of Noises Off, will direct Inherit the Wind, Jerome Lawrence and Robert E. Lee’s fictional recreation of the infamous Scopes Monkey Trial of 1925, about a professor arrested for teaching Darwin’s theories of evolution in his classroom (opens previews June 17). Through Sept. 30 at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE

making ‘waves’ requiring four years and a 100-strong crew to create, plus nine video screens and a surround-sound system to display, it’s no understatement to call Ten Thousand Waves, from british artist isaac Julien, a mammoth undertaking. inspired by the morecambe bay tragedy, in which two dozen chinese cockle pickers drowned off the coast of england in 2004, the exhibition at the museum of contemporary art san Diego is billed as a meditation on unfinished journeys, globalization and the rise of china on the world stage. the work itself inundates viewers with sensory information via immersive, oscillating sound and stunning footage, much of which was shot on-location in remote Guangxi province, on china’s border with Vietnam. the installation is on view through Dec. 1.

1100 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 858.454.3541

Isaac Julien, Glass House (Ten Thousand Waves)

(top) Henry Dirocco, (bottom) courtesy of tHe artist, metro pictures, new york anD Victoria miro Gallery, lonDon

Great Shakes

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Where to find it Summer has always been about trying new things and taking chances, and who says that can’t apply to fashion, too? This season, designers are catering towards the fearless fashionista who isn’t afraid to show off her assets with statement jewelry, show-stopping colors and bold prints. From dresses to purses to shoes, summer fashion is all about being adventurous. —Poonam Mantha

CAMILLA FRANKS This one-arm Grecian “Icarus” dress in silk crepe features Swarovski crystal accents and a silk chiffon sash ($768).

Available at: Kerut, 7944 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.0800

kate spade These sweet bow-bedecked, peep-toe slingbacks are a perfect pop of color in a chic mix of orange, purple and pink ($328).

Available at: Kate Spade New York, Fashion Valley Mall, 7027 Friars Road, 619.220.8190

TOM FORD These Islay frames in brown feature rose gold enamel and a universally flattering rounded shape ($360).

Available at: Eyes on Fifth, 228 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.231.3937

FENDI Get bold with this sunny yellow perforated calfskin purse with built-in beige linen drawstring bag ($2,000). Available at: Neiman Marcus, Fashion Valley Mall, 7027 Friars Road, 619.692.9100

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Hot-air ballooning, just one of S.D.'s many summer thrills

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ADVENTURES in VACATIONING From aerial combat to zoo animals, S.D.'s got outdoor thrills and cultural adventures for the whole family.

By CHARLENE BALDRIDGE, A ARyN BELFER, WILL CARLESS, NINA GARIN, MAyA KROTH, ANNE MACLACHLAN, TERRI MIRACLE, VALERIE SCHER AND DIANE WELCH

By AIR

8

By LAND

Y

By SEA

F

ANIMAL ENCOUNTERS

l

CULTURAL ADVENTURES

z

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biplanes and WWII-era warbirds will let you take the controls or just sit back and enjoy the flight. The thrill level is entirely up to you. While the classic biplanes take you on a gentle swoop-and-glide flight, the warbirds can blow your senses into new dimensions.

Exhale deeply when you finally level out with the green sky above and blue ground below—now there’s a new perspective for you.

Planes fly Tues.-Sun. from Montgomery Field, about 10 miles north of downtown San Diego.

Flights start at $199 for a gentle 20-minute biplane “hop” and go up to $795, depending on the level of combat and aerobatics you desire. Advance booking is recommended, but sometimes walk-ins are lucky. 3750-D John J. Montgomery Drive, Serra Mesa, 800.759.5667, barnstorming.com —AM

(Above) Hot-air balloons soar over Temecula Wine Country.

(Below right) The view from one of Barnstorming Adventures' vintage biplanes.

(Opposite) The historic Giant Dipper rollercoaster in Mission Beach.

by air 8

FLY LIKE A BIRD Take to the skies for a new perspective on the La Jolla coastline, with a 25-minute paragliding adventure.

On a tandem paraglide, you’re strapped into a seating harness in front of a professional tandem pilot, who controls the parachute.

Catch your breath before you both run right off the cliff and into thin air—then the parachute catches the wind. You’ll settle into your harness as your pilot glides you through a quiet but quite spectacular view of nature and homes of the rich and famous, which look massive even from that angle. Torrey Pines Glider Port, 2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Drive, La Jolla, daily 9 am-5 pm, 858.452.9858, sandiegofreeflight.com —TM

JUMP OUT OF A PERFECTLY GOOD AIRPLANE It defies logic and is one of the most exhilarating experiences possible: Hang your feet outside an airplane at 13,000 feet, plunge straight into the cold blue sky and don’t forget to turn your head to breathe. The tug of the harness as your ‘chute opens turns the adrenaline thrill of skydiving into a nearly mystical, one-withnature drift downward. Skydive San Diego preps new and veteran skydivers for tandem and solo jumps, starting at $189. 13531 Otay Lakes Road, Jamul, 619.216.8416, skydivesandiego.com —AM

FLOAT UP, UP AND AWAY For a unique adventure with altitude, look no further than the Del Mar coastline. It sounds counterintuitive, but a hot-air balloon ride high above lavish golf courses and teeming beaches will trump any vacation recap back at the water cooler. A one-hour sunset flight includes stunning vistas and wind-tousled hair, a great combo for the souvenir photo.

Champagne and hors d’oeuvres are served after landing. Flights begin at $159/person through Magical Adventure Balloon Rides, 866.ENJOY.US, hotairfun.com —AB PRETEND YOU’RE A PILOT For pulse-pounding aerial combat, Barnstorming Adventures’ fleet of restored 1920s

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by land

Y

CROSS THE BORDER Now that

RENT A RACECAR San Diego

Tijuana is tranquilo again, tourists have been returning to San Diego’s southern sister, which, though it’s famous as a den of vice, is attracting a different breed of cultured traveler these days. (Need proof? Even that bastion of high culture, The New Yorker, has praised the city’s burgeoning culinary scene). Many of these newly curious Americans are seeing the city with Turista Libre, an alternative tourism outfit run by a gringo journalist who crafts daylong itineraries to see the city’s lesser-known sites. Previous outings have included a retro roller-disco party and an art-gallery crawl; groups range in size from 10 to 40 people and trips always include a food and drink pitstop relevant to the theme of the day’s adventure. turistalibre.com —MK

Prestige lets you see the city from behind the wheel of your dream car. Can’t make up your mind whether you fit best into a Ferrari, Spyker or Lamborghini? You may not have to. From time to time (or at your command, if you have at least four people), you can test-drive a half-dozen of Prestige’s stock of covetable luxury cars. In three hours, take a 30-minute turn at six of the dreamiest vehicles ever to grace the roads (check for availability on the day you want to go). Test the handling of Germany’s finest automotive engineering on San Diego’s curvaceous coastal roads, or channel your inner James Bond in a slick Aston Martin. Drive on.

7736 Fay Ave. #200, La Jolla, 858.551.6001, sandiegoprestige.com —AM

RIDE THE RICKETY RAILS At $6 per ride, the Giant Dipper Roller Coaster at Mission Beach’s Belmont Park provides quick drops, sharp twists, steep hills and great ocean views. Commissioned by sugar magnate John D. Spreckels, the Dipper debuted in 1925 and cost $50,000 to build (and $2 million to restore 70w years later).

It is now one of only two remaining original vintage wood-frame coasters in the state.

The signature rattle of the wooden tracks, the jerk of the cars and the excitement of the steep dips evoke a timeless thrill first experienced by pre-Depression era tourists and locals. 3146 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.1549 —DW

oPENING SPREAD: ISToCkPhoTo.CoM /TINUS BEzUIDENhoUT

HIT THE BEACH IN YOUR BIRTHDAY SUIT You don’t have to cross the Atlantic to find a beach where it’s perfectly acceptable to come dressed in your birthday suit—La Jolla’s own Blacks Beach is clothing-optional (unofficially, that is). Regulars can be found sunning, strolling and doing all the usual beach activities in the buff at the hard-to-get-to, two-mile-long sandy stretch, which sits secluded at the base of huge cliffs.

If you’re agile, you can get there by descending the steep path from the parking lot of the Torrey Pines Glider Port, or, if you’re willing to walk a few miles to unleash your inner exhibitionist, head north from La Jolla Shores or south from Torrey Pines State Beach at low tide. When you’ve arrived, you’ll know it (trust us). —MK

by sea

F

DIVE WRECK ALLEYAbout a mile off the coast lies a collection of vessels and an old bridge deliberately scuttled to form artificial reefs and very real SCUBA diving sites. Deep in the aquamarine-lit Pacific waters, these wrecks host varying forms of sea life, and at a range of depths (60 to 90-plus feet), several levels of difficulty. (Note: Some of these wrecks are considered advanced to technical dives and must not be attempted without specific training.) Check wreck-alley. com for current conditions, dive boats, maps and descriptions of all the sunken vessels available to explore. Get there with Mission Bay’s Marissa Dive Charters (855.348.3627, marissacharters. com) or Waterhorse Charters (619.224.6195, waterhorsecharters.com). —AM HANG TEN (ON LAND) Learn to surf without ever getting into the ocean with the FlowRider, a popular ride at Mission Beach’s Belmont Park. Sheet wave technology creates endless waves that can be programmed to travel as fast as 30 mph in an enclosed six-foot-deep tank. It’s an adrenaline-rushing ride—but check your ego at the door, because any looky-loo can observe your wobbles and spills. Simple pre-instruction enables riders of any age (and at least 42 inches tall) to surf for a full hour by themselves. Unlike the ocean, the FlowRider’s surface is soft, padded and designed to absorb the energy of impacts.

Flowboarders may wipe out, but they’ll get

back up again and again. $20/hour with $10 registration. 3146 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.228.9317 —DW

HARNESS THE WIND The extreme sport of kiteboarding pairs you and your need for speed with a small surfboard, similar to a wakeboard, and a large, controllable kite. With your feet strapped to the board, your hands hold a bar that allows you to control the kite, harnessing the wind to propel you across the water. Avid kiteboarders say it feels like the best amusement park ride ever created. Bring a sense of adventure and enough time for 4-6 hours of professional instruction, available through MANTA Wind and Water Sports. Mission Bay Fiesta Island, 858.610.6000, mantawatersports.com —TM SUMMER 2012 WHERE SAN DIEGO 15

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SIGHTSEE LIKE A S.E.A.L. Slake your thrill thirst with a taste of the legendary Navy SEALs’ high-speed water runs.

Xploreoffshore’s 24-foot Rigid Inflatable Boat (R.I.B.) runs trips of two to three hours at speeds of roughly 40 miles per hour, which feels impossibly fast when you’re on the water. The 12-passenger open-boat R.I.B.— think: big motorboat with large outboard motor—is customized for civilian comfort and Coast-Guard-certified for safety, and the company also offers encounters with whales, dolphins and other wildlife off San Diego shores. Trips cost $49-99 per person and are tailored to passengers’ desires, locations and schedules. Oh, and you’re gonna get wet.

858.361.9494, exploreoffshore.com —AM

MEET LIONS, TIGERS AND BEARS One of just four accredited animal sanctuaries in the state is just 30 minutes’ drive from downtown San Diego, in pastoral Alpine. As for what you’ll find at Lions, Tigers and Bears, the name (almost) says it all: In addition to beautiful green-eyed lions Suri and Jillian, Bengal tiger Satara and cuddly black bear Liberty, you’ll also meet mountain lions, bobcats, servals and domesticated animals like llamas, goats, sheep and roosters—all rescued from bankrupt zoos, illegal breeders or other unsavory situations. Visitors can watch as handlers feed the animals (some 52 in all, from 17 different species), and the place even hosts overnight campouts during the summer. By appointment, 619.659.8078; toursbystar.com arranges visits to LTB as well as nearby raptor, wolf and monkey sanctuaries; 877.781.7827. —MK

animal encounters l SADDLE UP AT SUNSET There are

ROAR & SNORE When an African Sa-

plenty of places to ride horses in San Diego, but only one that’s beachside. Happy Trails Horse Rentals, just north of the U.S./Mexico border, allows riders of all levels to take horses out to the Pacific Ocean for a very Hollywood kind of feeling. A guide will lead trips 365 days a year starting at 9 am, but a local favorite is the Moonlight Ride that includes a dusk outing and a chicken dinner under the stars. $50135, 2180 Monument Road, South San Diego, 619.662.2570, happytrailssandiego.com —NG

fari is on the bucket list but not in the budget, the more wallet-friendly Roar & Snore Safari at Safari Park is the obvious solution. Spend the night in a yurt-esque tent surrounded by giraffes, antelopes and gazelles. Evening hikes, moon-howling and animal face-time are part of any safari worth its name, as are meals (dinner, snack and breakfast are provided).

Adults-only and all-age sleepovers begin at $140. 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, 760.747.8702, sdzsafaripark.org—AB

SeaWorld

PET THE PENGUINS Shamu may be SeaWorld’s biggest star, but over at the back of the theme park is the equally beloved Penguin Encounter. More than 300 birds are on display, but instead of just looking at them through a thick sheet of glass, visitors can meet one on the Up-Close Tour. On the 90-minute behind-the-scenes adventure, groups can chat with an animal trainer, touch a penguin and even go near the birds’ icy enclosure. $38-42 above regular park admission. 500 Sea World Drive, Mission Bay, 800.25.SHAMU. Tours available daily; book online at seaworldparks.com. —NG

Roar & Snore lets kids and their grown-ups camp out at San Diego Zoo's Safari Park

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cultural adventures

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In the border region, mezcal is fast becoming the adventurous drinker’s tequila. For an amazing array of sipping mezcal and a growing list of mezcal-based cocktails, visit El Take It Easy in the hip North Park neighborhood.

Sample a Long Goodbye, a gimlet made with mezcal joven and named in honor of erstwhile San Diego writer Raymond Chandler, or order a smooth, smoky sipping mezcal made with Tobala, the most prized of all maguey plants. Owner Jay Porter has been raving about mezcal’s complex flavors for years, and is always on the lookout for new imports of rare and exotic bottles. 3926 30th St., North Park, 619.291.1859 —WC

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ingredients to reviving ancient methods of fermentation, San Diego’s craft brewers are constantly competing against each other to come up with the most outlandish brews, made in the most adventurous ways. For an expedition in flavor, make the trek up to Escondido to check out Stone Brewing Co., which just released its Chocolate Mint Stout. The concoction is a collaboration with home-brewer Ken Schmidt, who won Stone’s annual contest for the second time. Or, if it’s alcohol content you’re after, check out a pint of the 2012 Imperial Russian Stout, a bear of a beer at 10.5 percent alcohol by volume. 1999 Citracado Parkway, Escondido, 760.471.4999 —WC

HEAR A WATER ORCHESTRA Sure, you know what a waterfall sounds like, but imagine a water “orchestra,” in which huge bowls of water become percussion sections. That’s an adventure of classical proportions—one you’ve got to see to believe. Chinese composer Tan Dun, who won an Oscar and a Grammy for his Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon score, has been trying to turn natural elements into percussion instruments for years, delightfully and accessibly so. On August 4 at the La Jolla Playhouse, he conducts the San Diego premiere of “a work of stunning power,” his own Water Passion After St. Matthew (2000), which incorporates water “instruments,” fiddling techniques of Silk Road cultures, monk chanting, Tuvan overtone singing and the San Diego Master chorale. Mandell Weiss Theatre at the La Jolla Playhouse, 2910 Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, $45-$65, 858.459.3724 —CB

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AT THE MERCY

OF THE

CHEF Chef-controlled tasting menus are on the rise in San Diego. Adventurous foodies, you’re in good hands. BY Will CaRless

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till ordering from the menu? In today’s dining, that’s simply not good enough for a growing clique of foodies. These adventurers in gastronomy want to see a chef’s true colors, to free his or her inner artisan from the strictures of the menu and let their creativity shine. For some diners with the audacity (and budget) to experiment, there’s only one way to go: Be at the mercy of the chef!

In San Diego, a select cadre of restaurants has begun to cater to this whim. Inventive chefs and owners now invite adventurous diners for planned one-off tasting menus of four, six, eight or even 20 courses.

This is not dining as we know it. These chefs are stepping away from their role as gastronomic auteur, instead picking up knives and blow torches, getting their fingers dirty as they pluck, slice and arrange for the diner’s individualized experience. No two meals should be exactly alike. Plates should be dictated by freshness of ingredient, with the only boundary being the talent of the chef preparing the dishes. It’s hautecuisine reinvented, tailored.

Chef Paul McCabe has been offering a “Mercy of the Chef” option for his regulars and newcomers alike for years. At his previous home, Kitchen 1540 in Del Mar, McCabe called this his “white flag” menu. At his new spot, Delicias, McCabe typically arranges one-off chef’s dinners by email, Facebook and Twitter, and he requires 72 hours’ notice for larger tasting menus.

For McCabe, the experience is all about honing in on what’s fresh and available on any particular day. He simply asks diners about their dietary restrictions and preferences. Then he sets a budget for the meal and goes to town.

Opposite: Chef Trey Foshee at work at George’s at the Cove; above: Hawaiian tuna sashimi at Nine-Ten.

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his talents. Foshee bills the service as the “Doing this is like doing an art show. You ultimate way for adventurous foodies to wouldn’t ask an artist to present just one experience San Diego on a plate. piece of work, you’d ask him for a whole “You need to be interested in the sense of show, and that’s what we’re doing with these exploring food—putting yourself in sometasting menus,” he said. body else’s hands completely,” Foshee said.

At Nine-Ten, Chef Jason Knibb sees his A few miles north in Del Mar, upscale Mercy of the Chef menu (offered nightly at Market has produced tasting menus with $80/person or $120 with wine pairings) as as many as 20 courses. The restaurant’s both a showcase and a forum to experiment innovative amuse-bouche menus must be and evolve his techniques. That innovation is arranged in advance, but Chef/Owner Carl folded into the consistent concept that freshSchroeder will also whip up less extravagant ness is king, and it’s evident in several dishes tasting experiences on demand. His only featured at a recent tasting. requirement: That the kitchen isn’t so busy Witness pickled lamb’s tongue, arranged that doing so would compromise quality for in a Pollock-esque spread of blistered cherry the rest of the dining room. tomatoes, braised lamb’s shoulder, nettle Farm tomato salad at Market To capitalize on freshness, Schroeder purée, deep-fried eggplant and explosive sleeps next to his cell phone. A posse of local little maitake mushrooms. The tongue, silky fishermen will wake him, at 3 am if necessary, to alert him in texture, added a subtle bite of acidity to a dish that details of a sensational catch. Recently, that meant an early rise otherwise settled on the side of smoky sweetness. Knibb DELICIAS 6106 Paseo Delicias, Rancho Santa to buy an exquisite 45-lb. white seabass. said the tongue was pickled in-house, and that the lamb is Fe, 858.756.8000 When a regular customer asked him to “just feed me,” one of the dishes he’s currently refining.

NINE-TEN 910 later that day, Schroeder coupled the seabass with some “This is a way for us to push a new dish out there and Prospect St., La Jolla, fresh English peas he had spotted on the morning run to see how it’s received,” Knibb said.

858.964.5400 nearby Chino Farm. He served these with housemade New ingredients aren’t the only boundary being tested GEORGE’S AT THE tagliatelle, creating a dish he said speaks to everything in the Nine-Ten kitchen, however. Knibb likes to try out COVE 1250 that’s right about inventive dining today. techniques he’s experienced elsewhere, like a dreamy RoProspect St., La Jolla, 858.454.4244 Of course, one culture has been doing mercy-of-thebuchon potato purée, raw egg yolk and truffle concoction chef dining for centuries. In Japan, omakase dining has he’s working on. Knibb sampled a similar dish at the resMARKET 3702 Via de la Valle, Del Mar, long allowed adventurous eaters the chance to place taurant Etxebarri in the hills outside San Sebastian, Spain, 858.523.0007 themselves in the hands of a knife-wielding sushi chef. and now recreates it in his kitchen with a few refinements.

ZENBU CARDIFF Zenbu Sushi in Cardiff-by-the-Sea is just the place to The end result is like eating a creamy cloud. Rich and 2003 San Elijo Ave., experience California’s spin on omakase. Here, amiable fluffy, with just the slightest nuttiness from the truffles, it Cardiff-by-the-Sea, surfers offer efficient and friendly service as a crew of was a stand-out in an excellent array of dishes.

760.633.2223 black-bandanna-wearing, locally grown talent works its At Nine-Ten’s neighbor, the venerable George’s at the magic behind a mound of gleaming seafood.

Cove, putting diners at the mercy of the chef is somewhat anathema Owner Matt Rimel only buys his fish from a small group of fisherto Executive Chef/Partner Trey Foshee’s approach to modern Calimen he’s known for decades. A defining feature of Zenbu Cardiff fornia cuisine. George’s has long prided itself on rebuffing stuffiness (there’s another location in La Jolla) is its huge fish tank, and it’s not and elitism. As Foshee puts it, “we’ve always been open-arms. You uncommon for rubber-boot–wearing fishermen to climb up on a stepcan come in in shorts and have a big bottle of wine or a couple of ladder and pour the day’s fresh catch into the tank. appetizers, whatever.”

Highlights here include salmon sashimi so fresh it has that telltale But after experiencing orchestrated tasting menus at high-end spots crunch and slices of Rimel’s own locally raised, grass-fed beef filet, like The French Laundry, Foshee found himself wondering: What if we oh-so-lightly charred and served dusted with marinated shimeji mushcontrolled a diner’s environment? At what level could we execute that? rooms and a blowtorched quail egg.

The answer can be found in Foshee’s spot prawns, done three ways.

Beef? In a sushi restaurant. Hey, the chef’s in charge. If you’re really Three of these succulent, juicy morsels come to the table raw, poached lucky, he’ll whip you up a “honeymoon shot,” a martini-glassed concocand blistered with a blowtorch. They’re a showcase to the benefits of tion of uni, salmon, flying fish roe, a local oyster and a raw quail egg. allowing a chef the freedom to serve the day’s best ingredients, regardTip it back and you’re pouring a firework of flavor into your mouth: less of what’s on the menu. Unbelievably fresh and barely adulterated, a burst from the egg yolk, followed by miniature pops of briny zing they tasted of the ocean outside George’s plate-glass windows, and that leave you surprised, sated and curious for more of what the exhibited a quality of execution that shows George’s can do dictatorchef’s got to offer. ship just as well as it does democracy.

And that’s the whole point of this adventurous dining trend: Each In addition to a six-course tasting menu, George’s now also offers dish, each flavor leaves you pining for more, ready to experience ana unique service called “TBL3,” a 12-to-14 course one-of-a-kind other new technique or ingredient controlled by another master chef. dinner designed to give Foshee a broad palette on which to exhibit

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exploring

Downtown

Left to right: the historic Balboa Theatre; the harbor and skyline at sunset; browsing the Gaslamp Quarter’s many boutiques and galleries.

The past and present come together in San Diego’s lively, historic downtown neighborhoods.

Gaslamp Quarter

Businessman Alonzo Erastus Horton envisioned San Diego as a bustling port city, and in 1867 he spent $264 for 800 acres he called “New Town.” Today, New Town is known as the historic Gaslamp Quarter, or simply “The Gaslamp.” Comprising more than 16 blocks, the Gaslamp stretches from Broadway to Har­bor Drive (just north of the Convention Center), with Fourth, Fifth and Sixth ave­nues as its main thoroughfares. Anchoring the area’s northwest end is Horton Plaza, a small square with a bubbling fountain on the corner of Broadway and Fourth.

The Gaslamp’s immaculately preserved Victorian-style buildings are home to dozens of restaurants, clubs, ­theaters and retailers. Several tour guides offer an insider’s look at the Gaslamp (see p. 74), or create your own: The area can be easily covered on foot, or rent from Bike Revolution (522 Sixth Ave.) to navigate the district on two wheels.

If you start your exploration at the southern end of the Gaslamp, you’ll find Chuck Jones Gallery (232 Fifth Ave.), one of only three in the nation showcasing the work of the Oscarwinning animator responsible for the Road Runner, Wile E. Coyote and Marvin the Martian.

Shop for designer resale at Carolyn’s (310 K St.) or pre-owned luxury watches at Nikki & Co. Fine Jewelers (562 Fifth Ave.). Find summer’s trendy colored denim as well as updated vintage sunglasses at Tease (435 Island Ave.)., and clothing, towels and bedsheets made from bamboo at Cariloha (435 J St.).

We also love GOGA (401 Market St.), the signature shop of one-time Project Runway contestant Gordana Gehlhausen, who designs her own line of feminine, ethereal tops and gowns and also carries items from up-and-coming Southern California labels.

For national retailers, venture farther up Fifth, where you’ll find well-known stores like footwear boutique Sketchers (480 Fifth Ave.), Quiksilver (402 Fifth Ave.), Urban Outfitters (665 Fifth Ave.) and Dutch brand G-Star Raw (470 Fifth Ave.), with styles for men and women.

Or make your way over to Westfield Horton Plaza (see p. 72), a multilevel outdoor mall with a kaleidoscopic design that kicked off the revitalization of downtown when it was constructed in 1985. It’s now home to some 100 restaurants and shops including White House Black Market, Macy’s, BCBG and more. There’s also culture to be had at the mall: San Diego Repertory Theatre performs on the Lyceum Theatre stage, and the historic Balboa Theatre anchors the shopping center’s eastern edge, at Fourth Avenue and E Street (see p. 61).

After a long day of shopping and sightseeing, sate your hunger at one of the Gaslamp’s

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100-plus restaurants and cafés, ranging from American to Chinese to Indian to Thai to steak and seafood (see dining guide, p. 60).

Parking can be dicey in the Gaslamp; a garage is your best bet. Horton Plaza, with entrances on Fourth Avenue and G Street, offers up to three hours of free parking if you self-validate at machines on levels 1, 3 and 5. Be sure to note your “vegetable” or “fruit” level; it can be a confusing garage (619.239.8180). Park It On Market is a 500-space garage at Market Street with entrances on Sixth and Seventh avenues (619.232.1271); while 6th & K Parkade offers 1,230 spots, with entrances on Sixth and Seventh avenues (619.233.6624). For more information, call the ­Gas­lamp Quarter Association (619.233.5227).

(opposite, from left) NELS AKERLUND, BRETT SHoaF/ARTISTIC VISUALS, ASHOK SINHA

Downtown’s Core

Arts and culture abound downtown. Sites worth exploring include the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego and the New Children’s Museum, an interactive art/play place for kids of all ages (see p. 70). The San Diego Chinese ­Historical Museum (404 Third Ave.) also features a beautiful garden with a koi pond.

More than a century old, the San Diego Symphony usually performs at Copley Symphony Hall but ventures to its bayside stage for this summer’s Pops season (see p. 67). Broadway/San Diego brings touring shows to the Civic Theatre (1100 Third Ave.), and Spreckels Theatre (121 Broadway) hosts many performing arts events throughout the year. See page 61 for theater listings.

East Village

The construction of Petco Park (100 Park Blvd.), home of the San Diego Padres, helped

gentrify this once-gritty neighborhood east of the Gaslamp. Eight years on, it’s now rife with entertainment options. Pick up a creamy burrata or a smoky Gouda at Venissimo Cheese (871 G St.), or a Tony Gwynn jersey at the Padres Team Store (J St. at Seventh Ave.). The neighborhood’s burgeoning art scene includes a few notable galleries: the edgy Periscope Project, built from stacked shipping cargo containers near the corner of 15th and K, and Alexander Salazar Fine Art, featuring mixed-media work from emerging and mid-career contemporary artists (640 Broadway).

Little Italy

A few blocks northwest of ­downtown, Little Italy is home to fabulous restaurants, galleries, boutiques and markets dotting the main drag, India Street. Highlights include Bottlecraft (2161 India St.), a craft beer shop and tasting room; Noel-Baza Fine Art (2165 India St.), a well-respected contemporary art gallery featuring legends and locals alike; trendy women’s boutique Melero (1918 India St.), and Bella Stanza (1501 India St.), with Murano glass, Italian ceramics and more.

Take time to explore the streets branching off from India, too: The colorful cottages of the Fir Street Shops include Carol Gardyne Studio (1840 Columbia St.), with hand-painted silk scarves.

Running parallel to India Street, Kettner Boulevard forms the spine of the art-anddesign district. A gallery cluster near the corner of Kettner and Kalmia includes cool Subtext Gallery, focused on lowbrow and graphic artists. Monthly on the second Friday, many area galleries host evening receptions.

You can also shop for vintage and modern furniture, art and home accessories at chic

@HOM (2310-B Kettner Blvd.) or Mixture (2210 Kettner Blvd.), identifiable by its large roll-up garage door. Cannisse (1772 Kettner Blvd.) showcases its own line of stylish, feminine casualwear made in France.

Foodies won’t want to miss the Saturday morning Mercato on Date Street, one of the city’s most popular farmer’s markets (619.233.3769).

Embarcadero

Another entertainment destination is Seaport Village (see p. 72), a 14-acre outdoor plaza with shops and a beautiful 19th-century carousel. The bayside boardwalk is ideal for walking to and from the Convention Center. Grab an iced cappuccino from Upstart Crow Trading Company (835-C W. Harbor Drive) and head for the Embarcadero Marina Park, which offers bike and jogging trails, basketball courts and picnicking. Continue north along the harbor to Broadway Pier, where you can embark on sightseeing excursions or catch the Coronado Ferry (1050 N. Harbor Drive), which travels across the bay several times daily.

The USS Midway (see p. 71) invites the public to learn about America’s longestserving aircraft carrier. Many of the storytelling docents are veterans who served on the carrier over its 47-year history. The floating Maritime Museum (see p. 70) features several historic ships, including the HMS Surprise from the film Master and Commander.

Keep your eyes open for Urban Trees, a public art project consisting of tree-like sculptures—many of which move with the bay breeze—placed along Harbor Drive For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 78. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 60.

your sUMMER uniform

great find Well-situated in the center of downtown San Diego is Eden, an airy, newish boutique that caters to the needs of the young, urban fashionista with on-trend pieces from designers you probably won’t find in the big department stores. This summer’s styles are all about easy-breezy feminine casual: flowing maxi dresses in ultrasoft fabrics and statement-making summer brights. Pair one with a chunky belt and you’ve got a perfectly simple, chic beach-town look that won’t break the bank. Eden’s also got fun and funky jewelry from local designers; fedoras and other must-have hats; shoes, handbags and more. 520 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.696.3336

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exploring

La Jolla

Left to right: the gateway to the La Jolla cave; Nancy Rubins’ Pleasure Point at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego; the view from Salk Institute.

La Jolla is a jewel sparkling with art, theater, fine dining, boutique shopping and the area’s best outdoor recreation.

BOUTIQUES AND GALLERIES

La Jolla’s spectacular streets are lined with high-end boutiques, antique stores and art galleries. Prospect Street and Girard Avenue form the spines of the village shopping district, but don’t be afraid to venture off onto side streets, where hidden gems await, including Brooks Brothers (1055 Wall St.); the boutique stationery shop Sweet Paper, run by design-savvy sisters (7660-A Fay Ave.), and Las Manos del Artesano (7940 Herschel Ave.), a gallery showcasing Latin American folk art, jewelry, pottery and more.

On Girard, amid national brands like Banana Republic (7841 Girard Ave.), we love women’s apparel boutique Kerut (7944 Girard Ave.), a well-appointed spot run by a stylist. It’s not uncommon to find cupcakes and bubbly awaiting your arrival. Farther down Girard is La Maisonette (7631 Girard Ave.), an oasis of Parisian and French country gifts and textiles, as well as independent bookseller D.G. Wills (7461 Girard Ave.), for that rare first-edition.

Back on Prospect Street, a slew of female-friendly stores welcome shoppers, including Victoria’s Secret (1111 Prospect St.), locally designed swimwear shop Sauvage (1025 Prospect St.) and Robina (1261 Prospect St.), with chic women’s apparel and accessories. There’s also Westime (1227 Prospect St.), with high-end designer watches for both men and women.

The village is also home to many well-respected art galleries, whose collections range from landscape photography to Picasso canvases. A handful are clustered close together on Girard Avenue, making it easy to hop between them on nights when they all have coordinated opening receptions. Quint Gallery (7547 Girard Ave.) showcases edgy work by national artists like Ryan McGinness, while Scott White Contemporary Art (7655 Girard St.) represents emerging and mid-career artists as well as collections that include work by the likes of Willem deKooning and Alexander Calder. Joseph Bellows Gallery (7661 Girard Ave.) mounts regular exhibitions of stunning black-and-white photography.

La Jolla Boulevard heads south out of the village toward Bird Rock, where worthwhile boutiques for women include Capricorn (5544-B La Jolla Blvd.) and Mimi & Red (5630 La Jolla Blvd.), with threads from cutting-edge designers. Break for coffee at Bird Rock Coffee Roast­ ers (5627 La Jolla Blvd.), whose sought-after beans are served at cafés throughout the city, or pick up a loaf of gluten-free bread at Julian Bakery (5621 La Jolla Blvd.).

The neighborhood of La Jolla Shores, just a short drive up Torrey Pines Road, is also worth a visit. The wide, flat beach is perfect for swimming and sunning, while the main drag, Avenida de la Playa, is lined with eateries and rental shops with all the surf and kayak gear you need.

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(opposite, from left) IAN WHITE, edwin santiago, courtesy symphony at salk

arts & Science

The University of Cali­fornia, San Diego (9500 Gilman Drive) is home to one of the best theaters in the country: La Jolla Playhouse (see p. 61 for additional theater listings). The theater was founded in 1947 by actors Mel Ferrer, Dorothy McGuire and La Jolla native Gregory Peck. Each season is a mix of classic and daring productions; many have gone straight to Broadway.

The Stuart Collection, a group of site-specific outdoor sculptures, adds to the artistic setting at UCSD (p. 71). A 24-foot giant teddy bear made of boulders and a 560-foot-long Snake Path are among the artworks placed throughout the 1,200-acre campus.

Just north of campus is the Salk Institute for Biological Studies (10010 N. Torrey Pines Road), an architectural masterpiece designed

by Louis Kahn. The scientific research complex was named in honor of Dr. Jonas Salk, who discovered a vaccine for polio and later lived in La Jolla. Tours of campus architecture are available to the public (858.453.4100 x1262).

Southwest of campus sits Scripps Institu­ tion of Oceanography (8622 Kennel Way) and neighboring Birch Aquarium (see p. 68), both among the best ocean life learning centers in the world.

In La Jolla village, the Museum of Con­ temp­orary Art San Diego (see p. 70) examines the boundaries of art created since 1950.

Housed in the former home of Ellen Browning Scripps, the museum’s galleries boast an unparalleled ocean view, while Nancy Rubins’ stunning large-scale, nautical-inspired artwork adorns the museum’s west side. Definitely schedule a stop at the gift shop.

The Athenaeum Music and Arts Library (1008 Wall St.) features year-round art exhibitions, plus jazz and chamber music concerts,

and a treasure trove of books and records.

Many well-known names have called La Jolla home, including Theodor “Dr. Seuss” Geisel, actress Raquel Welch, motivational speaker Tony Robbins and author Anne Rice.

Recreation

La Jolla is paradise for outdoorsy types. The Cove (1100 Coast Blvd.) is a haven for swimmers and snorkelers; La Jolla Shores (8200 Camino del Oro) has easy access for scuba divers; and Windansea (6800 Neptune Place), immortalized in Tom Wolfe’s The Pump House Gang, is the ultimate surfing break.

Children’s Pool, a small cove next to Ellen Browning Scripps Park, is a place to observe wildlife, particularly the harbor seals that have taken over the area. The seals’ encampment has caused an ongoing community debate: Some residents want to reclaim the cove for a children’s pool; others advocate for the seals.

For a quick bite, try one of the many oceanview restaurants along Prospect Street or Coast Boulevard.

Torrey Pines

Torrey Pines is just north of La Jolla village.

There, you’ll find the 2,000-acre Torrey Pines State Reserve, which offers eight miles of hiking trails winding through wind-sculpted pines and wildflowers. Located off Coast Highway 101 between La Jolla and Del Mar, the reserve was established to protect the nation’s rarest pine tree, the Pinus torreyana. The visitors center, a pueblo-style structure at the top of Park Road, is available to help with guided tours.

One of the reserve’s trails leads directly to Torrey Pines State Beach, located on North Torrey Pines Road. The beach, which spans 4.5 miles from Del Mar to the cliffs at Torrey Pines Mesa, is a great place for swimming,

boating and fishing. You can also catch these amazing ocean views from up high, via a hang glider or paraglider. The Torrey Pines Glider Port and Flight Park (2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Drive) offers flights (tandem, too) for novices and extreme adventure seekers.

Adjacent Blacks Beach is a two-mile sandy strip known for great surfing—and nude sunbathing (“not officially sanctioned”). Getting to Blacks isn’t easy. If you can, park near the Glider Port and hike to the bottom of the bluffs, paying close attention to warning signs about unstable cliffs. You can walk a mile from Torrey Pines State Beach, but access may be blocked by high tides.

The Torrey Pines Golf Course (see p. 44) gives golfers the ultimate indulgence: two courses with stunning ocean views. In 2008, the landmark became one of the only public courses to host a U.S. Open; it’s also the site of the PGA Tour’s Farmers Insurance Open.

Golden Triangle

The area east of La Jolla village is known as the Golden Triangle, bordered by Interstate 5 on the west, Interstate 805 on the east and State Route 52 on the south. This triangular area includes upscale hotels, fine dining and great shopping. The shopping district revolves around Westfield University Towne Centre (see p. 72), which locals shorten to “UTC.” This outdoor mall, anchored by Macy’s and Nordstrom, features dozens of eateries and retail storefronts, including Anthropologie, Ann Taylor, Banana Republic, Apple, Tumi and Williams-Sonoma. From the village, go north on Torrey Pines Road and turn right on La Jolla Village Drive.

For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 79. For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 60.

A GALLERY WITH GRIT

great find Thumbprint Gallery’s name gives you a clue about its size: the teeny-tiny space is hard to find, tucked inside a building on one of the village’s side streets. But for beginning art collectors or those looking for something a little edgier than the standard-issue watercolor seascapes, it’s worth seeking out. With a focus on lowbrow, graffiti and other urban art genres, the gallery rotates its exhibitions monthly. Pieces are affordably priced—you can pick up one of SoCal stencil artist William Bucher’s bright, pop-culture-inspired prints for as little as $200. The gallery is open noon to 4 pm on Wednesday, Thursday, Saturday, Sunday and by appointment. 920 Kline St., La Jolla, 858.354.6294

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exploring

Beach Cities

Left to right: heading out for a surf in Coronado; boards and beach cruisers at the Mission Beach Boardwalk; the lighthouse at Point Loma.

From Coronado to Pacific Beach: Welcome to Southern California’s most scenic oceanside neighborhoods.

Coronado

Coronado is an island of small-town quaintness amid San Diego’s big-city bustle. Well, it’s not really an island, though many locals call it that. Coro­nado is actually an ­isthmus, attached to the mainland at the southern end of Silver Strand State Beach.

Though driving there via the iconic Coro­nado Bridge is always a thrill, it’s also great fun to travel by sea. The Coronado/San Diego Ferry leaves on the hour from downtown’s Broadway Pier between 9 am and 9 pm (619.234.4111), while San Diego Water Taxi offers on-call transportation around the bay from 9 am to 10 pm (619.235.8294). Upon arrival, you can browse the shops and restaurants at Coronado Ferry Landing Marketplace (1201 First St.), then rent a cruiser at Bikes and Beyond to explore Coronado’s flat, tree-lined side streets.

Head south on the main drag of Orange Avenue to find an inviting entertainment district, with shops like Coronado Taste of Oils (954 Orange Ave.), where you can sample dozens of flavors of gourmet olive oils and vinegars, and Blue Jeans & Bikinis, which makes it easy to shop for those two items women notoriously hate having to try on (971 Orange Ave.). Pick up a new paperback at Bay Books (1029 Orange Ave.), and pop into The Attic (1011 Orange Ave.) for modern home décor pieces, antique accents and fun jewelry from local designers.

You’ll find another cluster of shops selling designer clothing and eyewear, home décor and more coastal California merchandise inside the storybook Hotel del Coronado (1500 Orange Ave.), opened in 1888 and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1977. For more on the town’s history, stop by the Coronado Museum of History and Art (1100 Orange Ave.).

Spreckels Park (Orange Ave. between Sixth and Seventh sts.) sits between these two retail zones and is an ideal place to take a break from all that strenuous shopping.

Shelter Island and Harbor Island

Shelter Island and Harbor Island aren’t really “islands” either; they’re connected to the mainland and were created more than 35 years ago with tons of sand dredged from the floor of the bay. Shelter Island, with its many bars, restaurants and nautically themed stores, is the departure point for various sportfishing charters. The area is also home to Humphrey’s Concerts by the Bay, a 1,400-seat outdoor theater that hosts jazz, blues and pop headliners in warmer months (see p. 66). Nearby Harbor Island has its own, smaller outdoor festival site, Spanish Landing Park, and several bayview restaurants. Both islands offer postcard vistas of the downtown skyline, plus flat paths for walks and bike rides.

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(opposite, left to right) ASHOK SINHA, IAN WHITE, edwin santiago

Ocean Beach and Point Loma

“O.B.” for short, this neighborhood is truly one of San Diego’s most unique. It’s an endless summer of love in O.B., an aggregation of aging hippies, surfers, ­bikers, artists, ­musicians and other free spirits. OBceans possess a strong sense of community and territorial pride best summed up by a oncepopular bumper sticker: “U.S. out of O.B.” The main drag, Newport Avenue, smells of incense and has many shops catering to the O.B. lifestyle, but also plenty of antiques dealers at places like Newport Avenue Antiques (4836 Newport Ave.). Music junkies will love the vintage vinyl at Cow Records (5029 ­Newport Ave.), while Galactic Comics (4981 Newport Ave.) is heaven for graphic-novel fans. The Corner Store (4873 Newport Ave.) is home to an array of shabby-chic furnishings, tea sets, vintage costume jewelry and an adorable Bichon Frise named Lucy. Just off Newport, Noon (4993 Niagara Ave.) has handmade letterpress cards and jewelry.

Wind down the day with a leisurely stroll down the Ocean Beach Pier, which, at 1,971 feet, is one of the longest concrete piers in the ­country. A casual café is situated about halfway down the pier, making for a nice refueling point.

Nearby Point Loma is home to a small but charming array of restaurants and cafés, as well as the Cabrillo National Monument, Fort ­Rosecrans ­National Cemetery and military installations. The Cabrillo National Monument (see p. 68) offers panoramic vistas stretching from San Diego to Mexico. There are also hiking trails, tidepools, a historic ­lighthouse, a bookstore and museum exhibits about conquistador Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo, the founder of San Diego.

Mission Beach and Pacific Beach

Two of San Diego’s most popular beaches, Mission Beach and Pacific Beach (“P.B.” to locals) form an ­unbroken band of sand that ­stretches for three miles, from the mouth of Mission Bay to the rocky points of La Jolla.

Both are overflowing with restaurants, bars and boutiques.

South Mission Beach is home to serious beach volleyball and bayside basketball games. Farther north, check out the star attraction at the Belmont Park amusement park: the Giant Dipper, a restored 1925 wooden roller coaster (see p. 68).

Another landmark dating back to 1925 is Crystal Pier, at the foot of Garnet Avenue in P.B. This 400-foot-long wooden pier is gated and lined with rental cottages. However, the pier is open to the public during the day and is always popular with fishermen.

The best way to experience this area is to walk along the boardwalk, where peoplewatching is not just encouraged, it’s a must.

If the nonstop parade of skateboarders, inliners, bikers, ­joggers and walkers gets to be too much, walk across Mission Boulevard to the bayside boardwalk, where there’s much less of a scene.

Garnet Avenue and Mission Boulevard form the backbone of this funky, retro retail district, which boasts dozens of small shops filled with surfing gear, swimsuits and casual wear. Begin the 10-block shopping stroll where the two main streets intersect, then head east. (Note: These are long blocks.)

First order of business: find that perfect bikini. SunSplash (979 Garnet Ave.) can help, with stylish swimwear and casual beachwear in a wide array of sizes. For the rest of the outfit, try Chillers Showroom (4667 Cass

great find

St.), a spacious shop just off the main drag selling men’s and women’s clothing in a relaxed, lounge-like atmosphere.

Farther up Garnet Avenue is Rusty Spokes Vintage Bicycles (1344 Garnet Ave.), which specializes in antique and classic cycles.

Venturing north on Mission Boulevard from Garnet leads you to Urban Outfitters (4516 Mission Blvd.), various bike-rental shops and Surfindian (4658 Mission Blvd.), a gallery with art inspired by San Diego’s most sacred sport.

Heading south brings you to Mission Beach, home to bikini emporium Pilar’s (3745 Mission Blvd.) and The Basement (3790 Mission Blvd.), with clothing and jewelry by local designers.

Mission Bay Park

Mission Bay Park is a 4,000-acre gathering spot for locals and visitors to enjoy outdoor activities including running, biking, skating, kite-flying, sailing and boating.

The park is made up of various coves, points and islands with excellent ­picnicking spots and fire pits. ­Several sportfishing charters depart daily from Mission Bay, and a variety of ­watercraft can be rented from nearby shops. If you’re feeling adventurous, try your hand at stand-up paddleboarding.

The west side of the bay is also home to several resort hotels and SeaWorld (see p. 69), the internationally known park with some 12,000 aquatic animals. Don’t miss Shark Encounter, an underwater walkway offering a peek into the world of sand tiger, bonnethead and whitetip sharks, and the new Turtle Reef exhibition and ride.

For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 77. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 60.

soap opera

A miniature burner, a stainless steel pot and a tiny table are all Jackie Panebaker needs to make the natural cold-process soaps she sells from her shoebox-sized Ocean Beach shop, Pine Tree Road. You’ll find soaps in scents like mint chocolate chip and sandalwood with pumice powder, as well as hemp lotions, sugar scrubs, whipped body butters and more. Top sellers include facial bars containing activated charcoal and sea clay, which purportedly pull toxins from skin, and felt-covered mini-soaps in an array of bright colors—like a cleanser and washcloth in one, making them ideal for travelers. Panebaker also holds soap-making workshops (advance reservations required). 4885 Newport Ave., Ocean Beach, 619.501.1627

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exploring

Uptown

Left to right: In the heart of artsy North Park; the historic Birch North Park Theatre; Hillcrest by night.

Hillcrest, Mission Hills, North Park: Neighborhoods full of culture, character and charm.

Uptown encompasses some of S.D.’s most diverse and eclectic neighborhoods. Hillcrest, which borders Balboa Park’s northwest corner, is one of the county’s most vibrant areas.

Adjacent University Heights and Mission Hills are filled with Craftsman-style homes and quaint boutiques. Just east of Hillcrest, a renovated theater, galleries and cafés have helped North Park become San Diego’s newest arts district, while its residential neighbor to the south is the area’s best-kept secret for unique gift shopping.

Hillcrest

The hub of Hillcrest, at the intersection of University and Fifth avenues, is a buzzing, heavily trafficked scene throughout the day, with cars lined up in both directions and joggers, dogwalkers and coffee-sippers crowding the sidewalks.

Fabulous shopping begins at University and First avenues and runs 12 blocks to Park Boulevard. Score vases, candles and home décor at Cathedral (435 University Ave.), retro urban footwear at Mint (525 University Ave.) and hip men’s fashions and home accents at House Boi (1435 ­University Ave.). Just off the main drag, you’ll find all manner of headgear at the Village Hat Shop (3821 Fourth Ave.). Leave time to peruse 5th Avenue Books (3838 Fifth Ave.) ­and ­Bluestocking Books (3817 Fifth Ave.), whose shelves are lined with out-of-print and rare tomes.

By night, Hillcrest lights up with restaurants, bars and dance clubs and a great art-house movie theater, the Landmark (3965 Fifth Ave. #200).

UNIVERSITY HEIGHTS & MISSION HILLS

Northeast of Hillcrest on Park Boulevard lies quaint University Heights, home to ethnic eateries and good shopping at places like Frock You (4121 Park Blvd.), a clothing store whose helpful staff knows its stuff when it comes to vintage fashion. University Heights also has an astonishing number of cafés for such a small neighborhood, each catering to a different clientele. We love the back patio at quiet, well-designed Monica’s at the Park (1735 Adams Ave.) for a cappuccino break.

The streets of gorgeous Mission Hills, northwest of Hillcrest, are lined with stately homes, quaint cafés and boutiques. Cecilia’s (928 Fort Stockton Drive #115) offers the latest fashions for women, including lots of stuff by local designers, while Maison en Provence (820 Fort Stockton Drive) carries French country home accessories.

Presidio Park, at the western edge of ­this neighborhood, is historically significant as the site

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of the first European settlement in California (619.692.4918). Scenic trails lead to the neighboring Junípero Serra Museum. The museum, built in 1929, is a ­replica of the mission erected there in 1769.

Fresh produce at the Hillcrest farmer’s market, held every Sunday.

North Park

Centered at University Avenue and 30th Street, North Park is San Diego’s newest arts district, thanks in part to the restoration of the historic 1928 Birch North Park Theatre (2891 University Ave.). Gallery-hopping events are held select Saturday nights from 6 to 9 pm; check northparkarts.org for details.

The area is also home to dozens of independent clothing and décor boutiques. We love the organic cotton baby clothes and stylish art books sold at Pigment (3827 30th St.), while Aloha Sunday (3118 University Ave.) has surf-inspired clothing and accessories for men. After dark, North Park comes alive with dozens of bars, clubs and restaurants.

(opposite, center) amy k. fellows, (others) bjarne g. jensen, (this page, top) rich cook

SOUTH PARK

About a mile south of University on 30th Street lies the quiet neighborhood known as South Park. Though largely residential, South Park does have a few good neighborhood eateries and bars, and it’s a great place to shop for gifts while supporting the local independent merchants.

Favorite retailers in this area include The Grove bookstore (3010 Juniper St.), which also has a crafting nook inside; modern home furnishings and design emporium Progress (2225 30th St.) and Make Good (2207 Fern St.), with clothing, home accents, jewelry and other items from local crafters.

For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 78.

For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 60.

great find

where THE SAND meets THE street

An L.A. pop-up-shop maven goes brick-and-mortar with the opening of Graffiti Beach in trendy South Park. Setting up shop in a 100-year-old building that once housed a fire station, owner Melanie Michaud caters to San Diego’s young, urban side with “beach-tostreet” fashions from up-and-coming designers, many of whom practice an eco-friendly ethos. Find jewelry crafted from recycled drum cymbals and accessories made from the inner tubes of bicycle tires, plus skimpy bikinis, supersoft men’s tees, organic cotton onesies in hip prints, hats, scarves—even fanny packs (yep, they’re back). Closed Mondays.

2220 Fern St., South Park, 858.433.0950

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Photo by Luci Dumas Fine Photography

EVENT CALENDAR 14th Annual Old House Fair www.TheOldHouseFair.com Free festival including walking and trolley tours, historic home and garden tour ($20), exhibits and festivities.

PROGRESS products are sourced from small studios who are passionate about quality modern design at an affordable price.

The charm of Junc is its gestalt. A unique selection of accessories, dresses, art, modern and classic clothing and recycled furniture.

Progress

Junc Life and Style

2225 30 Street 619.280.5501 progresssouthpark.com th

2209 Fern Street 619.283.2611 junclifeandstyle.com

Saturday, June 16, 2012 30th & Beech, 10am-4pm

Summer Walkabout www.SouthParkScene.com Wander the streets, sidewalks and shops of historic South Park.

Shops are open late, there is free music on street corners, and specials in cafes, galleries and boutiques to enjoy!

Saturday, July 14, 2012

SouthParkSCENE.COM FOR MAPS, DIRECTORY, EVENT INFOrmatiOn AND MORE!

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Tacos and sushi...the only place in town that serves both! Enjoy half-off deals “Taco Tuesday” or “Sushi Sunday” and Happy Hour Mon-Fri, 4-7 pm.

A neighborhood wine pub featuring small production wine, craft beer on tap and a light food menu.

Juan Chou

The Rose Wine Pub on 30th

3023 Juniper Street 619.487.0455 juanchous.com

2219 30th Street 619.280.1815 therosewinepub.com

5/10/12 12:15 PM

s

on

0th

Photo by Unleashed Photography

Bringing the authenticity of Parisian flavors, ambiance and elegance to the heart of San Diego.

A place where you can find quality dog and cat food, treats, toys, self serve wash and South Bark’s world famous Blueberry Facial®.

Take a “palatable journey” across our new menu that has been inspired by the world and created by denizens of global cuisine.

Café Madeleine

South Bark Dog Wash

Vagabond Kitchen

2248 30 Street 619.544.1735

2037 30 Street 619.232.7387 southbark.com

2310 30th Street South 619.255.1035 vagabondkitchen.com

A multifaceted company that serves various sections of the food system with interesting fare and craft cocktails.

Enjoy burgers, comfort food, regional wines, local beers in a friendly, open-air environment.

Families, couples, dogs—it’s all good.

A charming boutique where both parents and children have fun discovering classic and new books, gifts and toys.

Alchemy

Station Tavern

th

1503 30th Street 619.255.0616 alchemysandiego.com

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th

2204 Fern Street 619.255.0657 stationtavern.com

So Childish

1947 30th Street 619.238.0800 sochildish.com

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exploring

North Coast

Left to right: the Self-Realization Fellowship in Encinitas; the Del Mar Fairgrounds; the surfer sculpture locals call the Cardiff “kook.”

Del Mar, Solana Beach, Encinitas, Carlsbad ... These cities exemplify the good life.

Del Mar

Del Mar’s celebrity status began more than 70 years ago, when the oceanside paradise became home of the Del Mar Racetrack (2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd.; see p. 67). Actors Bing Crosby and Pat O’Brien helped establish the track—and its track record for hosting the Hollywood elite at the Thoroughbred Club. Ava Gardner, W.C. Fields, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Jimmy Durante and Mickey Rooney were among the regulars in the late 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s. Today, the racing season runs from mid-July to early September, but exciting events are held at the Del Mar Fairgrounds year-round.

Jimmy Durante Boulevard—named for the famous entertainer who lived in Del Mar— paves the way from the track to the heart of the village. The intersection of Camino del Mar and 15th Street forms Del Mar’s center. The three-story Del Mar Plaza (see p. 71) has scenic fountains and sweeping ocean views, plus upscale shops like clothing boutiques Gerhard and Peaches en Regalia; Loghman Jewelers, with Italian jewelry and watches; and chains like Banana Republic and Sunglass Hut. There’s more retail along Del Mar’s main street, Camino del Mar, and the area can easily be covered on foot. The shopping district is lined with shops including Carolyn’s (1310 Camino del Mar), with designer resale, plus several casual cafés and eateries.

More great shopping is a short drive away. East of the Fairgrounds, off I-5 on Via de la Valle, is Flower Hill Promenade (2720 Via de la Valle), where shops include women’s boutique Coconut Lime, men’s clothier Patrick James and Dallman Chocolate Boutique.

At the end of the day, walk to Seagrove Park (Coast Blvd. at 15th St.) to enjoy a brilliant sunset. From the hush of the surf you can almost hear the echo of Bing Crosby, singing the jingle he wrote in honor of the track: Where the turf meets the surf, down at old Del Mar...

Solana Beach

Solana Beach is home to some of the most chic stores in San Diego County. The Cedros Design District begins at South Cedros Avenue and Lomas Santa Fe Drive, easily accessible

by The Coaster, the train that runs from downtown San Diego to Oceanside.

More than 50 shops spanning a quarter-mile feature fashion, home furnishings and antiques. Most of the boutiques on South Cedros are housed in renovated Quonset huts (iron warehouses shaped like a half-cylinder), giving this neighborhood an artistic feel.

Fuel up for your walking tour of the neighborhood at Claire’s (246 N. Cedros Ave.), across from

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the train station. It’s the kind of eco-conscious place that provides preferred parking for electric and hybrid cars. This stretch of Cedros is also home to Susan Street Fine Art, a contemporary art gallery (200 N. Cedros Ave.), and Tobi Blatt (152 N. Cedros Ave.), with women’s clothing from labels like True Religion.

Cross Lomas Santa Fe to explore South Cedros: We love Cedros Soles (143 S. Cedros Ave.) for the latest footwear; HIS (111 S. Cedros Ave. #200), a store geared towards the styleminded guy; and Bixby & Ball (214 S. Cedros Ave.), with linens, home décor items and other coastal-lifestyle accessories. Linger long enough to smell the sweet aromas springing from Mistral (146 S. Cedros Ave.), a small bungalow with soaps and lotions imported from France.

You’ll also find hip home décor and art books at Solo (309 S. Cedros Ave.) and everything for the modern garden at color-splashed Chicweed (240 S. Cedros Ave.).

Nestled among the retail shops is one of the county’s top live music venues: The Belly Up Tavern (see p. 73), a Solana Beach landmark for more than 35 years.

(opposite, left) IAN WHITE, (OTHERS) REBECCA Morquecho

Encinitas and cardiff-by-the-sea

Heading north on 101 from Solana Beach, you’ll pass through the small surf community of Cardiff-by-the-Sea. Be sure to get a picture with the Cardiff “kook,” the sculpture of a surfer that locals have fondly ridiculed for years. Officially named The Magic Carpet Ride, the statue is often dressed up in outrageous outfits (military fatigues, a toga, a bikini) by anonymous midnight marauders.

As you continue north approaching downtown Encinitas, you’ll see a unique silhouette among the palm trees. The Self-Realization

Fellowship Retreat and Hermitage (215 K St.), with its lotus blossom–shaped towers, dates back to 1937. A portion of the grounds is open free to the public. A stroll through the lush, cliffside gardens offers views of surfers at nearby Swami’s Beach (1298 S. Coast Hwy. 101), a popular break for longboarders.

Up the road, The Lumberyard’s two-dozen or so shops include stylish clothier Mog & Rue, modern home-and-garden store Grounded and Chuao Chocolatier, whose gourmet sweets are made from the finest Venezuelan chocolate. Don’t miss deepFling, with silver jewelry from Scandinavian designers. The Lumberyard also has an array of wine bars, eateries and cafés, many with outdoor seating (937 S. Coast Hwy. 101).

In the center of downtown, the historic La Paloma Theatre (471 S. Coast Hwy. 101) has anchored the district since the 1920s and still hosts films and concerts. Boutiques and restaurants also line the strip. Boasting by a shiny new Whole Foods, Pacific Station is also home to Icons boutique, with denim and tees, and Bliss 101, an art/home/body shop run by a collective of artisans devoted to the principles of fair trade (687 S. Coast Hwy. 101).

North Coast Highway 101 runs through sleepy Leucadia, where it’s easy to speed right by gems like Lou’s Records (434 N. Coast Hwy. 101), with its selection of hip LPs and CDs, and Ducky Waddles ­Emporium (414 N. Coast Hwy. 101), with its ­excellent collection of books on all things arty or bawdy.

A great cluster of shops is found at The Gold Coast (466 N. Coast Hwy. 101), whose tenants include stylish children’s boutique Daisy B. A short drive inland leads to San Diego Botanic Garden, a 35-acre treasure showcasing more than 3,000 rare and exotic plants (see p. 69).

Carlsbad

Downtown Carlsbad is a picturesque seaside village with tree-lined roads, restaurants and boutique shopping. Along Carlsbad Village Drive, the main drag, you’ll find two local landmarks: Ocean House (300 Carlsbad Village Drive), a restaurant and nighttime hot spot that boasts beautiful Victorian architecture, and nearby Frazier’s Well (2802 Carlsbad Blvd.), where sea captain John Frazier discovered mineral water in 1882.

Next to Ocean House is Carlsbad Village Faire, a shopping center home to several casual eateries and shops. Retail on nearby State Street includes antique stores and shops like Fairen Del (2940 State St.), with an assortment of fine leather goods, shoes, handbags and jewelry.

A short drive east of the freeway on Palomar Airport Road leads to great outlet shopping at Carlsbad ­Premium Outlets (see p. 71), with brand-name stores like BCBG, Kenneth Cole and Michael Kors.

Continuing on Palomar Airport Road from the outlets will lead you to another cluster of attractions. LegoLand (see p. 69) is 128 acres of kid-­friendly entertainment that includes a new Sea Life Aquarium. Nearby, the Museum of Making Music (see p. 70) is filled with musical memorabilia. La Costa Resort and Spa (2100 Costa del Mar Road) is home to the Chopra Center for Well Being, with spa therapies and wellness ­programs created by holistic specialist Deepak Chopra. Two miles south of La Costa is The Forum (see p. 72), an outdoor, Spanish-style mall whose shops include Tilly’s surf shop, Anthropologie and organic skincare shop NuboNau. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 79. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 60.

dangerous curves

great find It’s the full-figured fashionista’s biggest frustration: Although the average American woman wears a size 14, designers continue to ignore the curvy demographic, leaving the racks at most plus-size stores full of ill-fitting, dated clothing. Enter Curve Couture, a sophisticated new boutique whose discerning owner selects elegant, on-trend items made for sizes 12 and up by top North American and European designers. Under a chic brown-and-cream striped awning, you can try on well-tailored linen sundresses, business suits and flattering cocktail and evening gowns in a welcoming setting, complete with complimentary bubbly.

Shoes, handbags and accessories, too. 415 Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.847.9100

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exploring

Old Town

Left to right: The Cosmopolitan Hotel; colorful souvenirs; Colorado House, home of the Wells Fargo Museum. Opposite page: Palms shadowed on adobe.

San Diego celebrates Mexican and Spanish Colonial history.

On the hilltop overlooking Old Town is the site where, in 1769, Padre Junípero Serra established Mission Basilica San Diego de Alcalá. In 1774, Serra’s mission was moved to a location six miles east, but a colony of residents remained and the area became known as California’s first permanent European settlement. Today, the Junípero Serra Museum (2727 Presidio Drive) stands on that same hill, overlooking the festive neighborhood now called Old Town San Diego.

Living History and culture

Old Town State Historic Park, a pedestrian-only area spanning six blocks, is home to more than a dozen of San Diego’s earliest buildings—some original, others reproductions—including a general store, Wells Fargo Bank, adobe homes and the first office of the San Diego Union, the city’s oldest newspaper. Stop in at Rust General Store for some old-timey candies before checking out Casa de Estudillo, the 1825 home of Spanish aristocrat Don Jose Antonio de Estudillo. Other historical structures include the recently renovated Cosmopolitan Hotel and Seeley Stable Museum, a reconstruction of the 1850s-era stagecoach stop that now houses a collection of vintage carriages. Park aides lead tours of the sites, leaving from the Old Town Visitor’s Center in the Robinson Rose building, located on the plaza. No reservations are necessary and tours are free (619.220.5422).

Adjacent to the plaza, Fiesta de Reyes (2754 Calhoun St.) is filled with restaurants and shops that celebrate Mexican and American history; don’t miss the Urban Seed, which not only has a huge selection of heritage vegetable seeds but also French antiques and elegant home décor pieces. Costumed storytellers and artisans throughout the plaza add to the ambiance.

Up the hill at Harney and Juan streets you’ll find the Mormon Battalion, which tells the story of the church military unit that came west to help with the Mexican-American War, and Heritage Park, the site of seven restored Victorian buildings that were moved to this site from downtown San Diego after World War II to escape demolition due to modern development. The park also houses Southern California’s first synagogue, Temple Beth Israel, built in 1889.

More historical sites line San Diego Avenue, which leads out of Old Town State Park to the south. Construction on the gorgeous Church of the Immaculate Conception, still an active Catholic church, began in 1868 in an effort to replace the existing adobe church with

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a brick structure, but was not completed for more than 50 years.

Farther up San Diego Avenue, behind an adobe wall, is El Campo Santo, the city’s first cemetery, established in 1850, and the San Diego Sheriff’s Museum and Educational Center (2384 San Diego Ave.), built 100 feet from where San Diego’s original ­cobblestone jail once stood. It features exhibits displaying weapons and equipment used by the county’s 28 ­sheriffs over the past 150 years.

The Casa del Rey Moro Museum (2471 Congress St.) is a small house transformed into a ­scholarly treasure of African world ­history, with a focus on the Afro-Spanish, Afro-Mexican and African-American heritage in Old Town and California.

Hungry for more? Take in a show at the Old Town Theatre (4040 Twiggs St.), operated by the critically acclaimed Cygnet Theatre Company. Cygnet’s main summer show is Man of La Mancha, a musical based on Cervantes’ classic novel (July 5-Aug. 26).

shopping

Old Town’s many shops offer everything from authentic goods to touristy tchotchkes.

Check out Miranda’s Court­yard (2548 Congress St.) for a large collection of Mexican folk art, or browse women and children’s fashions made from eco-friendly cotton and alpaca at Wandering Sage (2415 San Diego Ave.).

On the back side of the park, Taylor Street is home to Bazaar del Mundo (4133 Taylor St.), a two-story emporium of ­international folk arts, fashion, jewelry and home décor.

Wind down your shopping day with a glass of pinot at Wine Cabana (2539 Congress St.).

For a map of this neighborhood, see page 78.

For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 60.

ashok sinha

beer with a side of history

great find Retailers in Old Town State Park are required to maintain a certain level of historically accurate authenticity, by dressing in period attire and otherwise embodying the park’s 19th-century lifestyle. But some, like Hacienda de las Rosas owner William Holzhauer, seem to revel in it. Holzhauer, whose pocket-sized wine tasting room recently expanded to include a variety of craft beers from San Diego’s increasingly famous brewers, will fill your miniature mason jar with a two-ounce “gill” of ale, lager or locally produced honey mead while he deftly explains the etymology behind such antiquated bartending terms.

2754 Calhoun St. (inside Fiesta de Reyes), 619.840.5579

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exploring

Balboa Park

Left to right: the graceful architecture of the House of Hospitality; a bonobo at play at the San Diego Zoo (located inside the park); the Old Globe Theatre.

Art, music and performance bloom year-round.

Spanning 1,200 acres of lush, beautifully landscaped terrain, Balboa Park is known as San Diego’s “crown jewel,” offering a variety of outdoor recreation options for kids and adults alike, not to mention a verdant respite from the bustle of the city’s increasingly metropolitan pace. The park is also the seat of San Diego’s thriving cultural scene.

Nestled between palm trees and botanical gardens, ornate Spanish Colonial buildings house many of the park’s museums and art exhibits. Several of the buildings were constructed as part of two world fairs: the Panama-California Exposition in 1915–16, and the California-Pacific International Exposition in 1935–36.

It can take more than one day to see and enjoy each museum, garden and attraction.

The Visitors Center (619.239.0512) in the House of Hospitality offers a Passport to Balboa Park, allowing admission to any of the park’s museums for one week. (Keep in mind some museums are closed on Mondays.) Deluxe packages include passes to the neighboring San Diego Zoo. Or go high-tech and let the park’s iPhone app be your guide.

ArTS & CUlTUre

Performing arts abound in the park. The Old Globe Theatre routinely presents top talent in world-renowned productions; summer features include Divine Rivalry (July 7-Aug. 12), about a painting competition between Leonardo da Vinci and Michelangelo; Yasmina Reza’s comedy God of Carnage (July 27-Sept. 2), and the annual Summer Shakespeare Festival, with three plays performed in nightly repertory. See p. 61 for more theater listings.

Elsewhere in the park, the Marie Hitchcock Puppet Theatre presents whimsical puppet shows, while Spreckels Organ Pavilion houses the world’s largest outdoor pipe organ, with some 4,500 pipes. Free concerts are offered Sundays at 2 pm.

The park is also home to groups celebrating culture. The House of Pacific Relations International Cottages promotes the heritage of countries around the world by hosting open houses and weekend festivals. Neighboring WorldBeat Center uses art, music, dance and education to celebrate African and indigenous cultures, while Centro Cultural de la Raza is a multidisciplinary center dedicated to the preservation of Chicano/Latino culture.

The park has a vast array of institutions celebrating the visual arts, past and present.

Known for its presentation of eclectic traveling exhibitions, the San Diego Museum of Art also has a trove of Renaissance and Baroque works, plus a large Asian collection; an exhibition of German Expressionist painting is on view this season. The world-class Museum

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of Photographic Arts showcases compelling photography and also presents films in its state-of-the-art theater. The Mingei International Museum is dedicated to folk art, craft and design from around the world, while the Timken Museum of Art is home to the Putnam Foundation’s renowned collection of European and Byzantine art, including Russian religious paintings.

The San Diego Art Institute’s Museum of the Living Artist presents exhibitions by contemporary local artists every four to six weeks, and the historic Spanish Village Art Center is a collection of 37 studios representing more than 200 artists working in media ranging from sculpture to blown glass; the charming courtyard setting is meant to evoke an Old World town square.

(OPPOSITE) BJARNE G. JENSEN EXCEPT BONOBO COURTESY SAN DIEGO ZOO; (THIS PAGE, TOP) EDWIN SANTIAGO

SCienCe & HiSTorY

Balboa Park’s many non-visual-art museums are a huge draw for children, but most distinguish themselves by crafting exhibitions that also appeal to adult sensibilities.

The San Diego Air and Space Museum salutes aviation with 68 original, reproduction and model airplanes and spacecraft.

The Reuben H. Fleet Science Center has interactive science exhibitions and an IMAX Dome theater. The country’s largest multisports museum, the San Diego Hall of Champions has interactive displays inviting sports fans to test their athletic and broadcasting skills. From antiques to hot rods, the San Diego Automotive Museum’s collection illustrates the evolution of the automobile.

The San Diego Natural History Museum’s life-sized T-Rex skeleton, fossil exhibits and 3-D theater let visitors explore the natural world. Dedicated to the study of anthropology, the San Diego Museum of Man

The iconic Museum of Man

greAT FinD

LATER, SKATER

Organized by the Smithsonian, Ramp It Up: Skateboard Culture in Native America is a traveling exhibition making its first tour stop at the Museum of Man. A popular sport on mainland Indian reservations and among native Hawaiians, skateboarding, the show asserts, is at once a metaphor for the Native experience and a uniter that transcends the boundaries of tribe, race, class and culture. In addition to rare images, video of Native American skaters and more than 20 skate decks created by Native artists, Ramp It Up also features a mini-skate ramp built right inside the museum, open for professional demos and public free-skate opportunities. 1350 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.2001

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explores cultures of the world, especially the Americas.

The largest of its kind, the Model Railroad Museum boasts scale models and interactive features for children. The Museum of San Diego History features traveling shows and exhibitions culled from the Historical Society’s vast collection. At the Veteran’s Museum & Memorial Center visitors will find military uniforms from World War I, Vietnam and the Korean War, as well as maritime paintings by local artists and other displays.

The Marston House, an Arts & Crafts mansion designed in 1905 by noted architect Irving Gill, is a must for history and architecture buffs; the grounds also feature a carriage house and gardens.

SPECIAL EXHIBITION

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ATTrACTionS & gArDenS

The park’s major attraction is, of course, the San Diego Zoo (see p. 69), with some 4,000 rare and endangered species. Among the animal residents you’ll find the much-beloved meerkats, Asian and African elephants, monkeys, birds and more. Be sure to stop

by Panda Canyon to say hello to the newest member of the clan, Yun Zi. After visiting the zoo, try your hand at the brass ring game from your perch atop a hand-carved pony on the Balboa Park Carousel. Both kids and grown-ups are welcome on the Balboa Park Miniature Railroad, which takes a three-minute, half-mile trip through four acres of the park.

The park also features several gardens, a legacy left by its founding “mother,” botanist Kate Sessions. Complete with ornate fountains and colorful tiling, the Spanishstyle Alcazar Garden, which abuts the Art Institute and Mingei Museum, blooms with 7,000 brilliantly colored annuals. The Japanese Friendship Garden features a Zen meditation garden and bonsai exhibit, while the sunken Zoro Garden has an interesting history: It was designed as a nudist colony during the 1935 California-Pacific International Exposition but is now a habitat for monarch, sulfur and swallowtail butterflies. Also built for the Expo, the Old Cactus Garden has succulents and other exotic plants.

With some 2,100 orchids, ferns, poinsettias and other plants, the Botanical Building is among the world’s largest lath structures; along with its gorgeous Lily Pond, it’s one of the park’s most photographed sites.

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RECREATION

From hiking and jogging to tennis and bocce ball, you’ll find it in the park. The Balboa Park Activity Center has facilities for badminton, table tennis, volleyball and more, while the Balboa Park Municipal Golf Course offers striking views of downtown and Coronado.

At Texas and Upas streets, on the park’s northeast end, the Morley Field Sports Complex is a haven for disc golf fans and other sports nuts, boasting a pool, velodrome, archery range and bocce court.

Check in here for information on the many hike and bike trails through Florida Canyon, a popular workout spot for joggers.

The nearby Balboa Tennis Club is open to the public, with 25 courts and a full-service pro shop, plus lessons and clinics.

The dapper, white-clad members of the San Diego Lawn Bowling Club, which has been around for more than 75 years, play seven days a week near the corner of Sixth Ave. and Laurel St. Visitors are welcome to join the fun and receive a free lesson.

There are also a few leash-free dog parks here, including one at Balboa Drive and El Prado, south of the Cabrillo Bridge, and another at Morley Field, northwest of the tennis courts.

DINING

Several casual snack bars and coffee carts can be found throughout the park and inside certain museums. For a sit-down experience, try The Prado, whose lively, colorful interior and charming garden patio—not to mention hearty American cuisine, refreshing salads and exotic South American cocktails—have made it a longtime local favorite.

The Tea Pavilion at the Japanese Friendship Garden serves tea, noodles and sushi in a casual setting, while the Sculpture Court Café at the San Diego Museum of Art is a good bet for salads and sandwiches.

For the at-home gourmand, the Balboa Park Food & Wine School has classes in everything from fondue-making to sushi rolling taught by celebrated local chefs, plus wine education. Be sure to make reservations in advance, though, as classes tend to fill up quickly.

A map of Balboa Park is on page 78.

Museums and attractions are listed in the where guide.

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watch • learn • shop Over 200 local artists in 37 working art studios located in Balboa Park. open daily from 11am-4pm

www.spanishvillageart.com Spanish Village Art Center • 1770 Village Place • San Diego, CA 92101 SUMMER 2012 WHERE SAN DIEGO 41

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exploring

Baja

Left to right: Rosarito’s Castle restaurant; a chef preparing the popular Sunday brunch at La Fonda Hotel, near Ensenada; a rustic wagon at Pueblo Plaza shopping arcade in Rosarito.

Mexico is 20 minutes and a world away from downtown San Diego.

The San Ysidro border cros­sing is the world’s busiest, a gateway to the 1,000-mile-long Baja Cali­fornia peninsula, where rugged desert meets spectacular coastline and lively cities offer great shopping, excellent dining and endless entertainment. The closest points of interest are within easy reach and make for a memorable day trip.

Tijuana

The world’s most popular border city is a cultural, nightlife and shopping hub. While the famed Avenida Revolución was once at the center of the action—and is still home to restaurants like Caesar’s (Av. Revolución between Fourth and Fifth sts.), where the eponymous salad was invented in the 1920s—today most of the nightlife is concentrated along Calle Sexta, or Sixth Street.

Perhaps the most striking attraction in the area is the Centro Cultural Tijuana, known as CECUT (Paseo de los Héroes and Mina, 011.52.664.687.9650), an impressive spherical building that rises over the city’s Zona Río district. Inside, art exhibits, performances, planetarium shows and giant-screen Omnimax movies offer visitors plenty to see.

Family theme-park fun can be found at Mundo Divertido La Mesa (Paseo de los Heroes and Jose Maria Velasco #2578, 011.52.664.701.7133), which boasts a roller coaster, miniature golf, go-karts, batting cages and arcade games.

Rosarito and Puerto Nuevo

Thirty minutes south of Tijuana, Rosarito welcomes visitors with its relaxed atmosphere and ocean views. This city offers surfing and horseback riding by day and boisterous nightlife at places such as Papas & Beer (Eucalipto 400 and Coronado, 011.52.661.612.0444). The city is also home to the legendary Rosarito Beach Hotel (Blvd. Benito Juarez #31, 800.343.8582), which has hosted Hollywood celebrities for decades. It offers luxury spas, pier fishing, fine dining, swimming pools, boutiques and more. Just south of Rosarito is the small town of Puerto Nuevo, famed for its delectably prepared lobster, and Baja Studios, a movie theme park and studio where parts of Titanic and Pearl Harbor were filmed.

Ensenada

Overlooking the Pacific, the toll road south from Tijuana ushers travelers into the vibrant port of Ensenada, where visitors can experience scenic wine country and plenty of shopping. On Boulevard Costero, Ensenada’s waterfront thoroughfare, take in Mercado de Mariscos, an indoor/

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outdoor fish market. The stunning grounds of the Riviera del Pacifico (Blvd. Costero and Av. Riviera) serve as Ensenada’s civic and cultural center. Once a 1930s gambling palace, its whitewashed hacienda-style building features a natural history museum and grand ballrooms.

Don’t miss the famous Hussong’s Cantina (Av. Ruiz #113, 011.52.646.178.3210), the oldest bar in the Californias and the purported birthplace of the margarita. The cantina’s popularity hasn’t faded in more than 110 years of operation.

About 20 miles south of Ensenada lies La Bufadora, a spectacular ocean blowhole that channels the pounding surf into sprays that reach more than 70 feet. The small main street houses arts and crafts vendors and seafood restaurants, and the coastline is ideal for kayaking, scuba diving and snorkeling.

Nuts and sundries at a sidewalk market Below: the modern Centro ­Cultural in Tijuana.

Mark hiss (except opposite, middle by will carless; this page, bottom by victor magdaleno)

Fast Facts

U.S. citizens traveling as far as Ensenada for less than 72 hours need not have a tourist card but must show proof of citizenship (passport or birth certificate with photo ID) when crossing back into the U.S. Non-U.S. citizens must have a passport.

Mexican auto insurance is recommended but not required, and can be purchased from dealers along the border. Uninsured drivers involved in an accident can be jailed until financial responsibility is assigned. U.S. dollars are widely accepted, as are credit cards, though often with a steep surcharge. Always ask first. Most ATMs accept U.S.-issued cards in the Plus or Cirrus systems. Tourists can bring back up to $800 in merchandise dutyfree. Those 21 and older can bring back one liter of alcohol duty-free.

Dial 078 for bilingual tourist help; dial 040 for local information.

get there

tours and transportation

Trolleys headed for the border depart downtown’s Santa Fe Depot regularly. Visitors can walk across the border, then take a bus or catch a cab into Tijuana. Drivers can take I-5 or I-805 south to the San Ysidro border crossing. Low-cost parking lots are available in San Ysidro for those that don’t want to drive in. Allow plenty of time to cross back into the U.S., as the border wait for vehicles can run up to two hours or more.

Day trips are offered by companies including Andiamo Tours (619.632.4571), Universo Bajacaliforniano (011.52.646.178.2232) and Turista Libre (turistalibre.com), whose alternative daytrips offer a unique look into the quirkier side of Tijuana.

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a guide to

the greens ­From the desert to the sea, San Diego’s got game

Talk about sand traps and water hazards. San Diego has two of the biggest: the Anza-Borrego desert and the Pacific Ocean. Coastal cliffs and desert mountains set the scene for some of the best golf in the world. More than 90 courses are open to the public, and players of all levels can take a swing at links near the city center or at par-3 courses for that quick fix. One day on the greens will be all it takes to understand why San Diego County is truly a golfer’s paradise.

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TORREY PINES GOLF COURSE Site of the 2008 U.S. Open and the annual PGA tournament known as the Farmers Insurance Open, this is one of the bestknown courses in America. (Tiger Woods and local Phil Mickelson are among the greats who have played here.) The two courses have stunning ocean views from the bluffs above the Pacific, wide fairways and sloping greens. The South Course (par 72; 7,628 yards) is a bit more difficult than the North (par 72; 6,874 yards), with the seventh and 12th holes being two of the town’s toughest. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 800.985.4653

MADERAS GOLF CLUB This Johnny Miller- and Robert Muir Graves–designed course is set in secluded canyons and ravines 20 minutes northeast of downtown, complemented by oaks, sycamores, creeks, lakes, waterfalls and 40 acres of native wildflowers. This 18-hole course plays to 7,115 yards from the back tees—and with five sets of tees, it can be enjoyed by golfers of all skill levels. The renowned maintenance practices of Troon Golf assure championship conditions every day of the week. 17750 Old Coach Road, Poway, 858.451.8100

RIVERWALK GOLF CLUB

ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SPC-HQ

Torrey Pines Golf Course

Location, location, location. This is San Diego’s most convenient and centrally located golf club. The 27-hole course was redesigned by Ted Robinson Sr. and Jr., and features nearly 100 bunkers, splashy waterfalls and well-protected bentgrass greens.

A night-lit driving range is open every day; call for times. 1150 Fashion Valley Road, San Diego, 619.296.4653

STEELE CANYON GOLF CLUB

PARK HYATT AVIARA

A perfect combination of scenery and challenge, this 27-hole course in the East County community of Jamul is the only one in San Diego designed by Gary Player. It features three distinct courses, each with four sets of tees that invite all levels of play. Canyon Nine provides breathtaking elevations; Ranch Nine winds through fields surrounding a working ranch; and Meadow Nine stretches along the pastoral valley floor where wildlife often plays through.

Steele Canyon was named one of the top 10 courses in California by Golf for Women and received Golf Digest’s four-star award. 3199 Stonefield Drive, Jamul, 619.441.6900

The only Arnold Palmer signature golf course in San Diego, Aviara winds through rolling valleys with ocean views. Named by Golf Digest and Golf magazines as one of the best resort courses in America, and by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the best in the world, the resort also welcomes non-guests to play. 7447 Batiquitos Drive, Carlsbad, 760.603.6900

LA COSTA RESORT AND SPA Measure your game against golfing’s elite at La Costa, the site of numerous PGA Tour events. Amid 400 acres in the coastal foothills of Carlsbad, La Costa features

two 18-hole courses, including the recently redone championship North Course; a driving range; equipment rental and Southern California’s only TOUR Golf Academy. The last four holes of the South Course are known as “the longest mile in golf.” 2100 Costa del Mar Road, Carlsbad, 800.854.5000

CARMEL MOUNTAIN RANCH COUNTRY CLUB Although not particularly scenic (some holes front Rancho Bernardo housing developments), it’s one of the county’s more demanding courses. Almost every hole is either uphill or down, with ravines, natural boulder formations and streams adding to the test. 14050 Carmel Ridge Road, San Diego, 858.487.9224

SAIL HO GOLF CLUB Built by A.G. Spalding, Sail Ho is one of the oldest courses in the country, dating back to the ‘20s. Originally known as the San Diego Country Club, the 1,023-yard, ninehole course recently received a $3.3 million face-lift. 2960 Truxton Road, Liberty Station, Point Loma, 619.222.4653

BARONA CREEK GOLF CLUB This par-72 course over 7,088 yards has received numerous accolades since its opening in 2001. Created by Gary Roger Baird Design, the course includes more than 100 bunkers and a series of lakes and ponds. It was also the host site for the 2007 Nationwide Tour Championships. 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino, Lakeside, 619.387.7018

CORONADO MUNICIPAL GOLF COURSE If you’re able to get on this 18-hole championship course, you may have difficulty keeping your eye on the ball: From the back nine, the views of the Coronado Bridge and the San Diego skyline across the bay can be beautifully distracting. 2000 Visalia Row, Coronado, 619.435.3121

SYCUAN RESORT Set amid rugged mountains and natural rock outcroppings, Sycuan Resort is a 25-minute drive east from downtown San Diego. There are two 18-hole championship courses and an 18-hole executive course spread over some 425 acres. Also onsite is a golf school designed exclusively for women of all ages

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Park Hyatt Aviara

and skill levels, taught by LPGA professionals. 3007 Dehesa Road, El Cajon, 619.442.3425

SALT CREEK GOLF CLUB Carved through the foothills of Mount Miguel, this 280-acre layout is a links design

by John Cook. It features three lakes, 78 bunkers and plenty of lush wetlands. The scenic course is surrounded by a wildlife refuge—not housing developments. Five sets of tees make it playable for all levels, measuring 6,889 yards from the back tees and 5,505 from the forward tees. 525 Hunte Parkway, Chula Vista, 619.482.4666

RANCHO BERNARDO INN Recently renovated after its original 1962 opening, this 18-hole championship course nestled into the northeastern part of San Diego County features two natural lakes, a

driving range with grass or mat tees and a championship yardage of 6,631. The resort has hosted PGA and LPGA events and offers instruction and clinics by PGA pros.

17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive, Rancho Bernardo, 858.675.8470

THE CROSSINGS AT CARLSBAD Located about a mile from the ocean and 30 minutes from downtown San Diego, this 18-hole championship course is the city’s newest facility. As envisioned by architect Greg Nash, the course’s design is inspired by the protected wetlands and rugged canyons surrounding it. Five bridges (or crossings) link the course, which plays par 72 over 6,835 yards. The Crossings also features a lighted practice center, golf shop, walking trails and restaurants. 5800 The Crossings Drive, Carlsbad, 760.444.1800

gOLF BAJA Can’t get a tee time, or just craving some post-links mariscos?

Perfect for bridal, birthdays, anniversaries & corporate events.

CLUB CAMPESTRE DE TIJUANA The 18-hole urban course at the Tijuana Country Club has an impressive pedigree: It was designed by world-class course architect Alister MacKenzie. Agua Caliente 11311, Tijuana, B.C., 888.217.1165 REAL DEL MAR This coastal resort 15 minutes south of the border features a par-72, 18-hole course set among canyons; navigating the narrow fairways can be challenging—in a good way. KM 19.5 Tijuana-Ensenada Toll Road, Rosarito, B.C., 800.662.6180 BAJAMAR They call this 27-hole, links-style championship course “the Pebble Beach of Baja” for its multiple cliffside holes; don’t miss Oceano No. 5, 185-yard par-three that carries over a roiling cove. KM 77.5 Tijuana-Ensenada Toll Road, Ensenada, B.C, 888.311.6076.

Y For tee times at these and other local courses, call San Diego Golf Reservations, 866.717.6552, or Showtime Golf, 888.806.7667.

BRIAN OAR/AVIARA GOLF CLUB - HYATT

Head to Baja California, where the crowds are scarce, the scenery is unbeatable and the price is right. These three courses are all within an hour’s drive of the border.

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where

the guide SUMMER 2012

ART

Now that’s philanthropy This painting (Nude by Christian Rohlfs) is one of nearly 50 important German Expressionist works recently gifted to the San Diego Museum of Art by a local family. The Kondon-Giesberger collection includes work by Gustav Klimt, Otto Dix, Egon Shiele, Oskar Kokoschka and more, on view as part of the Human Beast exhibition, opening July 21 at SDMA. The family’s contemporary holdings are on display at the downtown location of the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego. On view through Aug. 12, Iconic shows about 30 minimalist, geometric works, including a rare proto-pop canvas by Roy Lichtenstein. The combined value of the gift? A cool $40 mil. p. 70-71

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Dining SPOTLIGHT

American anthology Swank Little Italy three-story supper club with Todd Allison’s New American menu and live jazz, blues or rock music nightly. D (M-Sa). 1337 India St., Little Italy, 619.595.0300. $$ Map P15 Avenue 5 Stylish, comfortable neighborhood eatery serves seasonal French-American cuisine within walking distance of Balboa Park museums and theaters. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Su). 2760 Fifth Ave. #100, Bankers Hill, 619.542.0394. $$$ Map O16 bankers hill bar and restaurant Mismatched antique chairs decorate this casual spot with an urban-industrial vibe. Chef Carl Schroeder’s topnotch seasonal menu includes his signature pork tacos and a great burger. D (nightly). 2202 Fourth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.231.0222. $$ Map O16

Mexi, your way

A taco spot like La Jolla’s hip new Puesto fits in perfectly with today’s have-it-yourway culture, with its buildyour-own menu that lets diners customize their own combos using natural ingredients that range from the usual suspects (beef, chicken, shrimp) to the unexpected (soy chorizo, zucchini flower, cactus and huitlacoche, an earthy mushroom that grows on corn). Fillings are wrapped in a mat of grilled melted cheese, stuffed into homemade stone-ground corn tortillas and topped with garnishes like hibiscus-chipotle tinga and salsas like the signature pistachio-jalapeño.

Overwhelmed by all the options? Stick with one of the suggested combos printed on the back of the menu. 1026 Wall St., La Jolla, 858.454.1260

Guidelines

Restaurants are listed by city on page 60. Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 76–79. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index American............................... 50 Breakfast................................ 50 Brewpubs.................................51 California Cuisine.................51 Chinese.....................................51 Desserts..................................52 Eclectic/Fusion.....................52 French......................................52

International..........................53 Italian....................................... 54 Japanese.................................55 Mexican/Southwestern...56 Seafood................................57 Steak......................................58 Thai........................................59 Wine Bars............................59

barleymash Smack in the center of the Gaslamp, this spacious brick-walled sports bar serves burgers, spicy beer-boiled prawns and hearty “Barley pie”; martinis galore at Ginger’s cocktail lounge downstairs. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 600 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.255.7373. $$ Map Q16

OCEAN HOUSE OF CARLSBAD VILLAGE Lovely spot in a Victorian mansion comes alive nightly with live entertain­ment and outside dining. Serving seafood, steak and pasta. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 300 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.729.4131. $$ Map T22

Bertrand at MISTER A’s Incredible 12th-floor views complemented by fresh, seasonal ingredients. Appetizers range from mac ‘n’ cheese to pan-seared scallops, augmented by an outstanding wine list. L (M–F), D (nightly). 2550 Fifth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.239.1377. $$$ Map O16

quality social Billed as “a bar, with food,” this dive-bar-gone-upscale features booze-friendly eats like pork belly BLT and beet-and-burrata salad. D (TuSu), Br (Sa-Su). 789 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.501.7675. $$ Map Q16

Brockton Villa An 1894 cottage with spectacular ocean view. Try the Coast Toast, a French toast soufflé from the breakfast menu. B, L, D (daily). 1235 Coast Blvd., La Jolla, 858.454.7393. $$ Map W19

RED LIGHT DISTRICT Indulge in Chef Jason Maitland’s bacon-fat mac ‘n’ cheese or cast-iron baked escargot at the Gaslamp’s brand-new dining room and social house. L, D (daily). 409 F St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.255.2800. $$$ Map Q16

Craft + commerce Gastropub-inspired food like roasted bone marrow, fried pickles and bacon cracker jacks, plus handcrafted cocktails, local beers and a lively, social bar atmosphere. L, D (daily), Br (Sa-Su). 675 W. Beech St., Little Italy, 619.269.2202. $$ Map W22 CROCE’S RESTAURANT & jazz BAR Awardwinning cuisine includes seafood, p­asta, poultry, lamb and beef. Run by musician Jim Croce’s widow, Ingrid, the downtown venue pays tribute to its namesake with live music nightly. B, L (Sa-Su); D (nightly). 802 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4355. $$$ Map Q16 dick’s last resort Buckets of ribs, catfish and crab legs served by a purposefully irreverent waitstaff, plus 66 beers and live music nightly (Th-Sa). L, D (daily). 345 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.231.9100. $$ Map Q16 GINGHAM Celebri-Chef Brian Malarky’s new “urban cowboy” diner is a twist on classic BBQ: slow-roasted meats, ribs and fried chicken. Craft cocktails and local beers, too. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 8384 La Mesa Blvd., La Mesa, 619.797.1922. $$ Map E4 house of blues Dan Aykroyd’s nightclub/restaurant features live music nightly in the basement venue and Southern cuisine (voodoo shrimp, rosemary cornbread, baby-back ribs) in the upstairs restaurant. Sidewalk café dining. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1055 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.299.2583. $$ Map Q16 Jimmy’s Famous American Tavern Spicy California cheeseburgers and specialty cocktails served in a fun, casual bayside venue; outdoor patio offers great marina views. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 4990 N. Harbor Drive, Point Loma, 619.226.2103. $$ Map K9 THE LION’S SHARE Unpretentious lounge boasts craft cocktails and game meats (antelope sliders, boar ribs) plus whole fish, pasta and more. D (nightly). 629 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 619.564.6924. $$ Map Q15

r gang eatery Top Chef alum Rich Sweeney runs this colorful, clubhouse-like comfort-food spot with a lively open-air patio. Favorites include smoked Gouda mac ‘n’ cheese, portobello fries and tater tots. L (TuTh), D (Tu-Su), Br (F-Su). 3683 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.677.2845. $$ Map N16 SALTBOX Hip gastrolounge features entrées made from farm-fresh ingredients and retro-inspired craft cocktails. B, D (daily); L (M-F); Br (Sa-Su). 1047 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.515.3003. $$ Map Q16 searsucker At this always-hopping Gaslamp hotspot, Top Chef finalist Brian Malarkey crafts a bold, flavorful menu that ranges from a mammoth 32-oz. rib eye to mini appetizer bites. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 611 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.7327. $$$ Map Q16 Solace & the Moonlight Lounge Chef Matt Gordon of Urban Solace expands his upscale-comfortfood empire to North County, this time with an emphasis on seafood. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 25 East E St., Encinitas, 760.753.2433. $$$ Map W22 URBAN SOLACE Neighborhood joint features updated New American comfort cuisine and an intriguing wine, craft beer and cocktail list. Locals love the warm cheese biscuits and Sunday bluegrass brunch. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 3823 30th St., North Park, 619.295.6464. $$ Map N17

Breakfast beach grass cafe A breezy and casually chic eatery by the beach serves up a health-conscious menu of granola, flapjacks, salads and more. B, L (daily). 159 S. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.748.7770. $$ Map X22

Downtown is packed with steakhouses, from classics like the Palm and Morton’s to hip newcomers like Cowboy Star, with high-quality cuts and modern cocktails. p. 58

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Dining Brian’s 24 Old-school clubby spot features a mahogany bar, crystal chandelier and 24-hour dining (midnight brunch, anyone?). Burgers, steaks, pasta and chicken and waffles, too. B, L, D (daily). 828 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.8410. $$ Map Q16 CAFÉ 222 Locals line up in droves for Cafe 222’s quirky American cuisine and whimsical décor. Popular menu items include the peanut butter waffle with bananas at breakfast; tuna melts, salads and more at lunch. B, L (daily). 222 Island Ave., downtown, 619.236.9902. $ Map R15 The Cottage Housed in a charming turn-of-thecentury home complete with garden patio, the Cottage is hugely ­popular for breakfast (don’t miss the coffee cake). Sammies and burgers at lunch. B, L (daily). 7702 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.8409. $$ Map W19 HASH HOUSE A GO GO Huge portions of “twisted farm food” that will make your eyes bulge: egg scrambles and more arrive on massive platters, speared with a giant rosemary branch. Expect a long wait at weekend brunch. B, L (daily); D (Tu-Su). 3628 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.298.4646. $$ Map N16 The Mission This super-popular mini-chain of vegetarian-friendly spots is known for pancakes, French toast, smoothies, breakfast burritos, baked goods and eclectic food. B, L (daily). 3795 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.9060, Map I7; 2801 University Ave., North Park, 619.220.8992, Map N17; 1250 J St., East Village, 619.232.7662. $ Map Q17 richard walker’s pancake house Popular downtown spot with a huge selection of mouth-watering flapjacks and other breakfast and lunch fare. Favorites include the baked apple pancake. B, L (daily). 520 Front St., downtown, 619.231.7777. $ Map Q15 SNOOZE, an a.m. EATERY Bright, energetic breakfast joint features breakfast faves like eggs Benedict, pancakes, breakfast cocktails and more. B, L (daily). 3940 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.500.3344. $$ Map N16

Brewpubs Blind Lady Ale House This bicyclist-friendly uptown spot is a local favorite thanks to its gourmet pizzas, handcrafted organic salads and vast beer selection. There’s even a mini-brewery in the back. L (SaSu), D (Tu-Su). 3416 Adams Ave., Normal Heights, 619.255.2491. $$ Map I12 CORONADO BREWING COMPANY Fresh from the local microbrewery, the diverse beer selection complements the steaks, seafood, pizzas and pastas in this casual family environment. L, D (daily). 170 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.4452. $$ Map L11

Edward Duarte

Pizza Port A huge hit with locals, Pizza Port’s three locations deliver quirkily named pies, award-winning private-label beers and a fun, family-friendly environment just blocks from the beach. L, D (daily). 135 N. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.481.7332, Map X22; 571 Carlsbad Village Drive, Carlsbad, 760.720.7007, Map T22; 1956 Bacon St., Ocean Beach, 619.224.4700. $$ Map W22 Stone Brewing Company Home of Arrogant Bastard Ale, Stone’s massive brewery comes complete with scenic gardens and a restaurant serving eclectic, beer-friendly food inspired by cuisines of the world, like wild boar ribs and duck tacos. L, D (daily). 1999 Citricado Parkway, Escondido, 760.471.4999. $$$ Map C3 yard house World’s largest selection of draft beer with American fusion cuisine including orange-peel chicken and pan-seared ahi. Extensive ­children’s menu, late-night dining, 152 beers on tap. L, D (daily). 1023 Fourth Ave., downtown, 619.233.9273. $$ Map P16

California Cuisine 1500 OCEAN Housemade pastas and adventurous starters with bold, inventive flavors define this specialoccasion spot on Coronado, complete with intimate ocean-view terrace, beach cabanas and a wine cellar. D (Tu-Sa). Hotel del Coronado ,1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.8490. $$$$ Map L10 A.R. VALENTIEN Named for an Impressionist painter whose canvases adorn the walls of this Craftsman-style structure, this celebrated spot features seasonal ingredients fresh from the farm, with Chef Jeff Jackson at the helm. B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.777.6635. $$$ Map S19 Arterra A favorite power-lunch spot, Arterra’s seasonal menu makes good use of locally sourced ingredients in dishes like braised beef short ribs. Sushi bar and outdoor lounge with fire pits and cabanas, too. B (daily), L (M–F), D (M–Sa). Mariott Del Mar, 11966 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.369.6032. $$$ Map X22 bluefire grill La Costa Resort’s stylish destination dining spot serves coastal delicacies and seasonal vegetables. Elegant setting with indoor waterfall and outdoor fire pits. D (W-Sa). 2100 Costa del Mar Road, ­Carlsbad, 760.929.6346. $$$ Map T22 Dobson’s Power-lunch spot has great California cuisine with a touch of Italian, French, Spanish and Asian, plus seafood ­specialties, including to-die-for mussel bisque with puffed pastry. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 956 Broadway Circle, downtown, 619.231.6771. $$$ Map Q15 flavor del mar Contemporary California coastal cuisine in an airy, ocean-view space. L (W-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1555 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar, 858.755.3663. $$$ Map X22 George’s AT THE COVE La Jolla institution comprises three levels (from elegant to casual), all with picture-perfect views. Award-winning Chef Trey Foshee creates fresh seafood, steak and regional cuisine. L, D (daily). 1250 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.4244. $$$$ Map W19 Grant grill Chef Mark Kropczynski creates dishes with ingredients native to the region—jumbo diver scallops are a signature dish—while Jeff Josenhans crafts mixology magic behind the bar, all inside the historic U.S. Grant Hotel. B, L, D (daily). 326 Broadway, downtown, 619.744.2077. $$$$ Map Q16 JSIX Modern restaurant in Hotel Solamar features seasonal foods inspired by the coastline and area farms, lots of handcrafted elements and wines from Washington to Baja. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 616 J St., Gaslamp, 619.531.8744. $$$ Map Q16 JRDN Hip restaurant at Tower 23 Hotel has steak and seafood dishes, as well as a full raw bar. Patio offers boardwalk and ocean views and great people-watching.

L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 723 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736. $$$ Map H7 kitchen 1540 Farm-to-table is the concept at this sustainability-minded eatery at L’Auberge Del Mar hotel, featuring cured meats, gourmet cheeses, seafood and pasta dishes and more. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1540 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.793.6460. $$$ Map X22 THE LINKERY Named one of the best farm-to-table restaurants in the U.S. for its near-exclusive use of local, seasonal ingredients, the Linkery makes nearly everything in-house, including its gourmet sausages. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 3794 30th St., North Park, 619.255.8778. $$ Map J12 MARKET RESTAURANT + BAR Chef Carl Schroeder crafts modern cuisine using local produce, handmade cheeses and locally raised meat. Highlights include the blue cheese souffle, market veggie tasting and desserts like

Saltbox, p. 50

Meyer lemon-cream crepes. D (nightly). 3702 Via de la Valle, Del Mar, 858.523.0007. $$$ Map X22 MISTRAL Acclaimed Chef Patrick Ponsaty makes unique French/Italian dishes using farm-fresh ingredients and herbs grown in the hotel’s on-site garden. D (Tu-Sa).

4000 Coronado Bay Road, Loews Coronado Bay Resort, Coronado, 619.424.4000. $$$ Map L11 NINE-TEN Award-winning Chef Jason Knibb creates evolving California cuisine from local, organic ingredients.

The Jamaican jerk pork belly appetizer and the braised short rib entrée are highlights. B, L, D (daily). Grande Colonial Hotel, 910 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.964.5400. $$ Map V19 Sky Room Elegant dining room features contemporary California cuisine atop a classic hotel with fantastic scenic views. More than 1,000 wines to choose from. D (W-Su). 1132 Prospect St., La Valencia Hotel, La Jolla, 858.454.0771. $$$$ Map W19 STARLITE Dazzling design complements sustainably farmed food and boutique cocktails at this ultra-hip restaurant/bar. Don’t miss the burger on brioche and the signature Starlite Mule. D (nightly), Br (Su). 21+. 3175 India St., Midtown, 619.358.9766. $$$ Map O15 whisknladle Chef Ryan Johnson uses local organic ingredients in back-to-basics dishes like roasted bone marrow and chorizo-date fritters. Outdoor patio great for people-watching. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1044 Wall St., La Jolla, 858.551.7575. $$ Map W19

Chinese DEL MAR RENDEZVOUS Upscale Chinese bistro featuring entrées like Mongolian rack of lamb and steak Shangri-La, plus handmade dumplings and sauces made in-house. L (M-Sa), D (nightly). 1555 Camino del Mar #102, Del Mar, 858.755.2669. $$ Map X22 JASMINE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Popular for dim sum, this casual spot also serves authentic Hong Kong-style seafood, duck and barbecue entrées at dinner. L, D (daily). 4609 Convoy St., Kearny Mesa, 858.268.0888. $$ Map G1 Panda inn A rare sit-down spot at Horton Plaza mall serving Mandarin-style dishes like tea-smoked duck and Phoenix chicken; finish with white-chocolatecovered fortune cookies. L (M-F), D (daily). 506 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.233.7800. $$ Map Q16 RED PEARL KITCHEN Pan-Asian cuisine served in a hip, contemporary bar setting decked out with dark lacquered tones contrasted with vibrant colors and textures. Favorite dishes include hearts of palm salad, spicy tuna tartare, crispy tofu and Alaskan halibut. D (nightly).

440 J St., Gaslamp, 619.231.1100. $$ Map R16

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Dining WANG’S NORTH PARK A former JC Penney’s becomes a sophisticated restaurant and lounge with a wide-ranging menu of Asian dishes and creative cocktails.

D (nightly). 3029 University Ave., North Park, 619.291.7500. $$ Map N18

Desserts CUPS Retro-styled organic cupcake lounge features vegan and gluten-free options plus cheekily named standards like the Elvis (chocolate cake with banana cream filling and peanut buttercream). Open daily.

7857 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.459.2877. $ Map W19 EXTRAORDINARY DES­SERTS Topped with edible flowers and gold flakes, Karen Krasne’s stunning tarts, cakes and other treats are truly extraordinary.

A must-try. Open daily. 1430 Union St., Little Italy, 619.294.7001, Map P16; 2929 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.294.2132. $$ Map O16 GHIRARDELLI SODA FOUNTAIN A staple in the Gaslamp, this old-timey soda shop serves up rich sundaes, shakes and malts that will take you back to childhood. Open daily. 643 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.2449. $ Map Q16 heavenly cupcake Sweets boutique rotates flavors daily, from banana to mocha chip to red velvet.

518 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.235.9235 $ Map Q16 MICHELE COULON DESSERTIER A longtime favorite among La Jolla locals, Coulon whips up tortes, homemade jams, breads and quiches using local organic products. (M-Sa). 7556-D Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.5098. $ Map W19

Eclectic/Fusion Bali hai Tiki oasis has a Polynesian menu by Chef Chris Powell, featuring Hawaiian-style blackened ahi tuna and wok-fried whole striped bass, plus fabulous bay views. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2230 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.222.1181. $$$ Map K9 BISTRO D’ASIA Innovative blend of flavors from Beijing, Bangkok and Saigon in dishes like whole Peking duck and “dancing” scallops. Sushi, too: the citrus spicy scallop roll is a happy-hour staple. L, D (daily). 1301 Orange Ave., ­Coronado, 619.437.6677. $$ Map L10 burlap This “Asian cowboy” eatery’s tagline is “Where the West Eats Meat.” Bold flavors and even bolder décor from Thomas Schoos define this hoppin’ spot from celebri-Chef Brian Malarkey. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 12995 El Camino Real #21, Del Mar, 858.369.5700. $$$ Map X22 INDIGO GRILL Award-winning Chef Deborah Scott explores her love of the spicy and sweet in her twist on Southwestern cuisine. Try her famous Indian corn pudding; Jiffy cornbread mix never tasted so decadent. D (nightly), Br (Su). 1536 India St., Little Italy, 619.234.6802. $$ Map P15 Roppongi Cutting-edge eatery with spectacular décor, including a wall-sized aquarium and outdoor fireplace. Chef Stephen Window’s list of Pacific Rim–style tapas is as extensive as it is excellent.

L, D (daily). 875 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.5252. $$$ Map W19

French ADDISON Chef William Bradley creates deliriously tasty, elegant dishes from local ingredients with French influences at this ultra-fine restaurant at the Grand Del Mar. D (Tu-Sa). 5200 Grand Del Mar Way, Del Mar, 858.314.1900. $$$$ Map X22

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Dining CAFé CHLOE Locals’-fave offers afternoon “urban tea” (booking required) and bistro cuisine like smoked trout salad, cheese plates and moules frites in a casually elegant setting, complete with patio. B, D (daily). 721 Ninth Ave., East Village, 619.232.3242. $$ Map Q17 Chez Loma Classic romantic dining in a historic Victorian house. Continental/Nouvelle French cuisine with seafood specialties like roasted salmon fillet with a horseradish crust. D (Tu-Su). 1132 Loma Ave., Coronado, 619.435.0661. $$$ Map L10 Marine Room Outstanding nouveau French ­food like macadamia-pesto-crusted salmon and artisan cheeses by Chef Bernard Guillas in an unparalleled oceanfront location (at high tide, waves can reach the windows!). D (nightly). 2000 Spindrift Drive, La Jolla, 858.459.7222. $$$$ Map W20 Mille Fleurs This über-romantic restaurant is a classic date spot in remote, exclusive Rancho Santa Fe. The cuisine is creative, updated French/California (think: escargot and whole dover sole meunière). L (Tu– F), D (nightly). 6009 Paseo ­Delicias, Rancho Santa Fe, 858.756.3085. $$$$ Map W23 Pamplemousse Grille Former New York Chef J­ effrey Strauss brings an imaginative flair to his ­country French–influenced American menu in a quirky, casually elegant setting near the racetrack. L (F), D (nightly).

514 Via de la Valle, Solana Beach, 858.792.9090. $$$ Map W22 Tapenade Chef Jean-Michel Diot’s traditional preparations incorporate Mediterranean ­flavors from regions beyond France. Decadent and savory desserts as well as vegetarian options. L (Tu–F), D (nightly). 7612 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.7500. $$$ Map W19 Vincent’s Locals’ favorite is a great start to an evening of entertainment at nearby California Center for the Arts. Creative update of classic French cuisine.

L (Tu–F), D (Tu–Sa). 113 W. Grand Ave., Escondido, 760.745.3835. $$ Map C3 VINTAGE BISTRO French comfort food prepared with California-style touches and fine wines in a quaint and intimate bistro setting. L (Tu–S), D (Tu-S). 2961 State St., Carlsbad, 760.729.7097. $$ Map T22

International alchemy Comfort food with an international twist, using regional ingredients in a low-key (but often noisy) neighborhood spot. Bacon-infused vodka in the Hail Mary is a brunch highlight. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1503 30th St., South Park, 619.255.0616. $$ Map K12 bayu’s authentic ethiopian cuisine Find spiced meats, hearty vegetable dishes, injera bread and a popular lunch buffet at this vegetarian-friendly spot in Hillcrest. L, D (daily). 530 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.269.6142. $$ Map N16 Berta’s Latin American Latin American specialties can be sampled via generously apportioned tapas in this little Old Town cottage. Entrées like Brazilian vatapá should not be missed. L, D (Tu–Su). 3928 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.295.2343. $$ Map N13 Cafe Sevilla Recently reopened in a new Gaslamp location, Sevilla still serves up the same Spanish tapas, seafood specialties, flamenco and salsa lessons that have made it a longtime local favorite. D (nightly).

353 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.5979 $$ Map R16 ChopaHn Enjoy authentic Afghan cuisine including Aushak (steamed dumpling filled with leek and onion) and an array of California wines in a serene setting just off the Gaslamp’s crowded main drag. D (nightly). 750 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.236.9236. $$$ Map R16

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Dining COSTA BRAVA Coastal eatery serves Spain’s greatest hits, from jamón iberico to paella to tapas—and don’t forget the sangria. Live music offered throughout the week. L, D (daily). 1653 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, 858.273.1218. $$ Map H8 mediterranean room Chef Lance Repp’s menu features flavors from across the Mediterranean, including North Africa and Turkey, in dishes like lemon roasted chicken and confit of Moroccan-spiced duck. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). La Valencia Hotel, 1132 Prospect Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.3765. $$$ Map W19

NOW SERVING SUNDAY BRUNCH CRAFT COCKTAILS LATE NITE EATS LOCAL FOOD

monsoon Authentic Northern Indian cuisine in sophisticated environment. Bounteous lunch buffet; entrées include Bangalore masala and lamb curry.

Signature cocktails and wines by the glass. L, D (daily).

729 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.5555. $$ Map Q16 The Prado The Prado’s dramatic garden patio is the perfect setting for a drink or a bite after a long day of sightseeing in Balboa Park. The eclectic American menu is spiked with Latin/Italian flair. L (daily), D (Tu-Su). 1549 El Prado, House of Hospitality, Balboa Park, 619.557.9441. $$ Map O17 el q’ero A rare Peruvian restaurant in North County, featuring regional classics such as lomo saltado and the signature beverage, chicha morada, made from purple corn. L (Tu-Sa), D (M-Sa). 564 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.753.9050. $$ Map V22 REI DO GADO Brazilian-style steakhouse serves succulent mesquite-cooked beef and pork, brought tableside on skewers until you tell them to stop. L, D (daily). 939 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.8464. $$ Map Q16

3175 INDIA STREET SAN DIEGO CA 92103 619 358 9766 STARLITESANDIEGO.COM

royal india Palatial Gaslamp spot features Northern Indian specialties, bountiful vegetarian options and 30+ different curries. Buffet L (daily), D (nightly). 329 Market St., Gaslamp, 619.269.9999. $$ Map R16

A 21 & UP ESTABLISHMENT

OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK FOOD UNTIL MIDNIGHT HARD TO FIND SPIRITS

Italian acqua al 2 Sister restaurant to a like-named ­establishment in Florence, Italy, this spot (a Padres player favorite) serves fresh Tuscan fare in a ­stylish setting. Pastas, steaks and sandwiches for lunch. L (M–F), D (nightly).

322 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.230.0382. $$ Map Q16 ARRIVEDERCI Charming restaurant with sidewalk seating draws loads of locals for its gnocchi with pesto cream and sun-dried tomato sauce. Sandwiches, pizzas and wines also available. L, D (daily). 3845 Fourth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.299.6282. $$ Map N16 ASTI Northern Italian with a bistro feel, fresh seafood and steak specialties. Bustling patio dining area makes for great people-watching. L, D (daily). 728 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.8844. $$ Map Q16 BeNCOTTO Italian for “well-cooked,” this slick, airy new spot in the modern Q Building earns raves for simple but well-executed create-your-own pasta dishes and other Italian specialities. L, D (Tu-Su). 750 W. Fir St., Little Italy, 619.450.4786. $$ Map P15 Bice Milanese authenticity from Chef Mario Cassineri in the heart of downtown; don’t miss the cheese and salumi bar. Great cocktails, too. D (nightly). 425 Island Ave., Gaslamp, 619.239.BICE. $$$ Map Q16 Buca di Beppo Family-style platters of ravioli al pomodoro or spaghetti and meatballs served up in a kitschy and friendly atmosphere. L, D (daily). 705 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.7272. $$ Map Q16 Cucina urbana Crowded, chic neighborhood hotspot features housemade pastas, oven-baked pizzas and more Italian farm-to-table cuisine. Wash it down with a sophisticated cocktail or a selection from the onsite retail wine shop. L (Tu-F), D (nightly). 505 Laurel St., Bankers Hill, 619.239.2222. $$ Map O16

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Dining davanti enoteca Lively newcomer serves rustic Italian share plates like mascarpone polenta, plus pasta, pizza and salumi. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1655 India St., Little Italy, 619.237.9606, Map P15; 12955 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.519.5060, $$ Map X22 il fornaio Authentic Italian recipes including excellent pasta, pizza and regional specialties paired with handmade breads. Coronado location has great bay views. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.755.8876, Map X22; 1333 First St., Coronado, 619.437.4911. $$ Map L10 jack & giulio’s Known for its scampi and its spaghetti and meatballs, this Old Town Italian spot is a local favorite. Excellent wines for pairing. D (nightly).

2391 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.294.2074. $$ Map N14 la villa Chic Little Italy newcomer with lively patio brings a farm-to-table sensibility to the neighborhood.

Signature dishes include crispy-skin Scottish salmon with braised escarole. L, D (daily). 1644 India St., Little Italy, 619.255.5544. $$$ Map P16 the old spaghetti factory Italian comfort food served in a historic building with upstairs billiard room and loft bar. Family-friendly with large portions.

L, D (daily). 275 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4323. $$ Map R16 old venice Local favorite boasts easy-going, candlelit atmosphere and Italian cuisine with Mediterranean flavors. Enjoy dishes like the spicy Roma shrimp and veal picatta. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 2910 Cañon St., Point Loma, 619.222.5888. $$ Map K8

Experience a FRESH APPROACH

osteria panevino Colorful ceramics and marble set the Italian feel for authentic Tuscan cuisine in a classic sidewalk café style; pair your pasta with a domestic or Italian wine. L, D (daily). 722 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.595.7959. $$ Map Q16 piatti Delicious pastas (ravioli al limone) and other Italian faves near the ocean in La Jolla Shores. The setting is elegant yet family-friendly, with a quaint outdoor patio. L, D (daily); Br (Sa–Su). 2182 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla, 858.454.1589. $$ Map V20 trattoria fantastica Popular eatery serving Sicilian fare in a casual setting, with a charming patio in the back. Specialties include wood-fired pizza and red wine osso bucco. B, L, D (daily). 1735 India St., Little Italy, 619.234.1735. $$ Map P15 trattoria i trulli Superb pasta and sauces in a rustic setting with more than 100 wines to choose from.

The créme brûlée shouldn’t be missed. L, D (daily).

830 #100 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.943.6800. $$ Map V22 vivace Marvelous Northern Italian cuisine with a California twist made fresh using only organic ingredients at this gorgeous restaurant at the Park Hyatt Aviara Resort. D (M-Sa). 7100 Four Seasons Point, Carlsbad, 760.603.6999. $$$ Map U22

JOIN US FOR OUR

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vigilucci’s ristorante Italian favorites plus Prime steaks, fresh seafood and savory veal, coupled with elegant décor, cozy piano bar and ocean views. L, D (daily). 1300 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.0946, Map L10; 2943 State St., Carlsbad, 760.434.2500, Map T22; 505 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.942.7332. $$$ Map V22

Japanese cafe japengo Bustling atmosphere attracts a hip after-work crowd to this upscale spot specializing in artistic sushi and cocktails. L (M–F), D (nightly). 8960 University Center Lane, La Jolla/Golden Triangle, 858.450.3355. $$ Map T21

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Dining HARNEY SUSHI Find award-winning sushi with a molecular gastronomy twist at this groovy local minichain, where live DJs spin nightly. L (M-F), D (nightly).

3964 Harney St., Old Town, 619.295.3272, Map J10; 301 Mission Ave., Oceanside, 760.967.1820. $$ Map S22 KATSUYA Master Sushi Chef Katsuya Uechi’s menu features unique rolls, sashimi platters and signature dishes like yellowtail with jalapeño and miso-marinated black cod. D (nightly). 600 F St., downtown, 619.814.2000. $$$ Nobu After conquering L.A., New York, Miami, London and Vegas, celeb Chef Nobu Matsuhisa brings his brand to the Hard Rock Hotel. The miso black cod is a house specialty. D (nightly). 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.814.4124. $$$ Map Q16 RA SUSHI A hip sushi bar that also features a creative menu of Japanese fusion dishes. Lively bar has Asianthemed cocktails and flat-screen TVs. L, D (daily). 474 Broadway, ­downtown, 619.321.0021. $$ Map Q16 Sushi on the Rock This raucous sushi bar is ideal for the fun-seeker who appreciates rock music and a high energy atmosphere with creative rolls and fresh catch. L, D (daily). 1025 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.3208. $$ Map W19 Taka Hip, upscale sushi bar with inventive Asian fusion dishes like miso black cod and oysters dynamite on and off the menu. D (nightly). 555 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.338.0555. $$ Map Q16 UNDERBELLY Build your own elevated noodle creation from toppings like bacon-wrapped mushrooms and kimchi octopus at this hip, casual ramen bar. L, D (daily). 750 Fir St., Little Italy, 619.269.4626. $ Map P15 zenbu Innovative sushi rolls and sashimi crafted from line-caught fish brought in by the owner’s personal fleet of fishing boats. Ask the staff about special offthe-menu rolls. D (nightly). 7660 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.4540, Map W19; 2003 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff, 760.633.2223. $$$ Map W22

Mexican/Southwestern El Agave No mere burrito factory, this is upscale Mexico City-style cuisine in exotic dishes like cuitlacoche tlacoyo on blue corn tortillas. There are also some 2,000 tequilas available to sample. L, D (daily). 2304 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.220.0692. $$ Map M14 ALFONSO’S A La Jolla institution since 1971, Alfonso’s prime location offers great people-watching from the sidewalk terrace. Family recipes include carne asada Alfonso. L, D (daily). 1251 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.2232. $$ Map V19

619.226.2103 AmericA’s cup HArbor - 4990 N. HArbor Drive - J-FAT.com Next to Point Loma Sportfishing

cafe coyote South-of-the-border classics in a lively setting right in the center of Old Town. Choose from more than 100 tequilas in your margarita to wash down an order of enchiladas suizas. B, L, D (daily). 2461 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.291.4695. $$ Map M14 Candelas Find tequila prawns flambé over ahi tuna (but no burritos) at this romantic nouvelle ­Mexican spot with breathtaking views of San Diego’s skyline.

D (nightly) at both locations; additional Br (Su), L (M-F) in Coronado only. 416 Third Ave., downtown, 619.702.4455, Map R16; 1201 First St. #115, Coronado, 619.435.4900. $$$ Map L10 CASA GUADALAJARA Talavera tiles, folk art, a garden patio and a 200-year-old pepper tree define the setting; cuisine includes regional dishes like chicken and mango quesadilla and tequila-lime shrimp. L, D (daily). 4105 Taylor St., Old Town, 619.295.5111. $$ Map N13

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Dining

SPECTACULAR WATERFRONT DINING Enjoy breathtaking breathtaking views views Enjoy of the the coastline coastline while while you you of dine on on fresh fresh fish fish specialties, specialties, dine award-winning prime prime rib rib and and award-winning decadent desserts. desserts. decadent Chart House House is is your your place place Chart for outstanding outstanding cuisine cuisine and and for impeccable service. service. impeccable

la fiesta California-style Mexican dishes like lobster quesadilla and Mazatlan shrimp in a casual, colorful, centrally located setting. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 628 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.4242. $$ Map Q16 en fuego A Mexican restaurant with a lively bar scene, En Fuego specializes in traditional Mexican food like empanadas, tamales and seafood specialties such as mango salsa tilapia. Sip on specialty mojitos and margaritas of all flavors. L, D (daily). 1342 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.6551. $$ Map X22 miguel’s cocina This family-owned restaurant chain dates back to 1982. Each location has its own breezy vibe, but all serve Miguel’s seriously addictive queso dip. L, D (daily); Br (Su, also Sa on Coronado). 2912 Shelter Island Drive, 619.224.2401, Map K9; 1351 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.4237, Map L10; 2444 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.298.9840, $$ Map N13

2588 S. S. COAST COAST HWY HWY.. 101 101 2588 CARDIFF CARDIFF 760.436.4044 760.436.4044 ONLINE RESERVATIONS RESERVATIONS AT AT ONLINE

old town meXican cafe This Old Town staple is famous for its handmade tortillas, which you can see being made fresh daily through the restaurant’s front window. A festive atmosphere awaits inside. B, L, D (daily). 2489 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.297.4330. $ Map N13 el take it easy No burritos at this cool, urban Tijuana-inspired “gastrocantina.” Instead try the house-cured country ham or rabbit cazuela. World-class craft beers and boutique wines, too. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 3926 30th St., North Park. 619.291.1859. $$ Map J12

CHART-HOUSE.COM -HOUSE.COM CHART

Oasis on Coronado Island

el vitral Serving creative, authentic Mexican fare, signature margaritas (try the Cuco-Yaya) and more than 250 tequilas in an airy converted warehouse space near the ballpark. Br (Sa-Su); D (nightly). 815 J St., East Village, 619.236.9420. $$$ Map R16

Peohe’s offers offers guests guests an an Peohe’s island-inspired menu menu featuring featuring island-inspired an eclectic eclectic mix mix of of fresh fresh seafood, seafood, an mouthwatering steaks, steaks, new new wave wave mouthwatering sushi and and more. more. Enjoy Enjoy Peohe’s Peohe’s sushi all new new modern modern decor decor and and all stunning waterfront waterfront view view of of stunning the San San Diego Diego skyline. skyline. the

Seafood anthony’s fish grotto Bayside restaurant has served up fresh catches, fish ‘n’ chips and Mama’s famous clam chowders for 60 years running. And you can’t argue with those bay views. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 1360 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.232.5103. $$$ Map Q15 baleen Paradise Point Resort’s signature restaurant serves upscale seafood and “land-food” with stellar bay views in an island-inspired and family-friendly environment. D (Tu-Su). 1404 W. Vacation Road, Mission Bay, 858.490.6363. $$$ Map I8

1201 FIRST FIRST STREET STREET 1201 CORONADO FERRY FERRY CORONADO LANDING LANDING 619.437.4474 619.437.4474

blue point coastal cuisine California-style seafood and fresh oysters plus blue crab and white truffle mac ‘n’ cheese. Hip martini bar and decadent desserts, too. D (nightly). 565 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.6623. $$$$ Map Q16

ONLINE RESERVATIONS RESERVATIONS AT AT ONLINE

PEOHES.COM PEOHES.COM

the brigantine Popular chain with a rollicking happy hour, steaks and chops is known for its fish tacos, swordfish and oyster bars. L (daily), D (nightly), Br (Su at Del Mar and Coronado). 2725 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.2871, Map K8; 3263 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.481.1166, Map X22; 1333 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.4166. $$ Map L10

This is the place you’ve heard everyone talking about!

coronado boathouse 1887 Prime rib and fish specialties like macadamia-crusted halibut in a historic structure on the waterfront. D (nightly). 1701 Strand Way, Coronado, 619.435.0155. $$ Map L10

Open 7 days a week 6:30 am – 2:30 pm 520 Front street, downtown san diego (just south of market) 619-231-7777 www.Richardwalkers.com

donovan’s prime seafood Popular steakhouse chain makes a splash with this chef-driven seafood venture in prime Gaslamp location. D (M-Sa). 333 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.906.4850. $$$ Map R16 eddie v’s prime seafood Find seafood classics like shrimp cocktail, ahi tartare and lobster bisque, plus 28-day aged Prime center-cut steaks at this new La Jolla spot. D (nightly). 1270 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.5500. $$$-$$$$ Map W19

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Dining the fish market/top of the market Casual dining includes seafood and sushi, plus oyster bar and bay view. Upstairs: Top of the Market features fine seafood and an expanded wine list. L, D (daily). 750 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.232.3474, Map Q15; 640 Via de la Valle, Solana Beach, 858.755.2277. $$ Map X22 island prime Seafood, steak and cocktails complemented by one of the city’s best views. Adjacent C Level Lounge on the spacious deck is popular with the after-work crowd. L, D (daily). 880 Harbor Island Drive, Harbor Island, 619.298.6802. $$$ Map J10 mccormick & schmick’s Stylish seafood chain is located in the Omni Hotel, adjacent to Petco Park.

Fresh catch includes some local selections like swordfish and albacore from nearby Catalina Island. B, L, D (daily).

675 L St., downtown, 619.645.6545. $$$ Map Q16 the oceanaire seafood room Retro oceanliner design features a bustling cocktail scene with oyster bar. Market-fresh seafood and regionally inspired dishes star on the daily-changing menu. D (nightly). 400 J St., Gaslamp, 619.858.2277. $$$ Map Q16 osetra Indulge in caviar, vodka and oysters at this progressive eatery, whose interior is defined by a three-story wine tower. Prime-aged meats are also on the menu. D (nightly). 904 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.239.1800. $$$ Map Q16 pacifica del mar Upscale ocean-view Asian fusion spot attracts a power crowd with mustard catfish and sugar-spiced salmon. Visit the vodka bar with more than 160 selections. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.0476. $$$ Map X22 peohe’s Tropical décor with spectacular water views and Pacific Rim plates like crispy wok-fried whole bass and fire shrimp. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1201 First St., Coronado, 619.437.4474. $$$ Map K10

Steak cowboy star With barstools upholstered in cowhide, this downtown steakhouse is decked out in Old West style. Great cocktails. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 640 10th Ave., East Village, 619.450.5880. $$$ Map Q17 donovan’s steak & chop house The power crowd noshes on huge portions of Prime steaks, chops and seafood paired with award-winning wines in a lively atmosphere. D (nightly; M-Sa at La Jolla). 4340 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.450.6666, Map T21; 570 K St., Gaslamp, 619.237.9700. $$$ Map R16 fleming’s prime steakhouse & wine bar Upscale steakhouse with Prime steaks, seafood, hearty side dishes and an excellent wine list (100+ choices by the glass). D (nightly). 8970 University Center Lane, La Jolla, 858.535.0078, Map T21; 380 K St., Gaslamp, 619.237.1155. $$$-$$$$ Map Q16 georges on fifth Wins over diners with its center-cut certified Angus Prime beef, American Kobe, fresh seafood, pasta and award-winning wine list. Live music F-Sa. D (nightly). 835 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.0444. $$$$ Map Q16 greystone, the steakhouse Prime steaks, seafood (try the Dover sole prepared tableside) and pastas in a great downtown location. Beefy menu includes filet mignon potstickers, Kobe carpaccio and more. D (nightly). 658 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.0225. $$$ Map Q16 lou & mickey’s Chop house with a mid-century feel features Prime steaks, chops and seafood, plus martinis shaken tableside and 350+-item wine list. L (daily), D (nightly). 224 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.237.4900. $$$ Map Q16

delicious, family-style food and all the fun of an italian gathering.

Open Daily at 11am • Banquet Packages • Party Pans To Go Carlsbad

1921 Calle Barcelona • 760.479.2533

Mira Mesa

buCadibeppo.CoM

10749 Westview Parkway • 858.536.2822 san diego | Gaslamp District 705 6th Avenue • 619.233.7272

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downtown’s only

24

THE

Dining hour restaurant bar & grill

THE PALM RESTAURANT Steak, lobster and pastas served in a saloon-like atmosphere with classic caricatures drawn with charcoals and pastels right on the walls. D (nightly). 615 J St., Gaslamp, 619.702.6500. $$$ Map P16 The Steakhouse at Azul La Jolla Chef Carmine Lopez has a menu featuring Waygu beef and fresh seafood. A garden patio is defined by a contemporary glass-encircled fire ring. L (Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 1250 Prospect St. #C10, La Jolla, 858.454.9616. $$$ Map W19

rESTAUrANT

THAT NEvEr

SLEEPS

Morton’s, THE steakhouse USDA Prime-aged beef, seafood, fine wine, chilled cocktails, decadent desserts, crisp white linens and great service at the edge of the historic Gaslamp Quarter. D (nightly). 285 J St., downtown, 619.696.3369. $$$-$$$$ Map Q16

VIGILUCCI’S SEAFOOD, STEAK & CHOP HOUSE Italian-influenced chop house features steaks, oysters (baked and on the half shell) and pastas like the classic capellini checca, along with breathtaking beach views. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 909 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.9664, Map W19; 3878 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.434.2580. $$$ Map T22

BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER & LATE NIGHT MENU SERVED ROUND the CLOCK FULL BAR BEER ON TAP

Thai Lotus thai Elegant bamboo décor and modern Thai cuisine with specialties including Choo Chee pork chops and roasted half-duck curry. L, D (daily). 3761 Sixth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.299.8272, Map N16; 906 Market St., downtown, 619.595.0115. $$ Map Q17 rama Traditional Thai in a stylish, exotic setting (check out the waterfall in the back room). Specialties include Crying Tiger, with thinly sliced filet mignon.

L (M-Sa), D (nightly). 327 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.501.8424. $$ Map Q16 Spice & Rice Thai Kitchen Local favorite offers creative twist on Thai in specialties like Panang curry duck and spicy chili halibut. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 7734 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.0466. $$ Map W19 Swadee Restaurant of Coronado Quaint eatery in Coronado known for its tasty curries and friendly service. L,(M-Sa), D (nightly). 1001 C Ave., Coronado, 619.435.8110. $$ Map L10

Wine Bars counterpoint Ultra-friendly neighborhood wine bar serves salads, panini, craft beer, international wines and gourmet cheeses. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 830 25th St., Golden Hill, 619.564.6722. $$ Map Q18 THE GRAPE S.D.’s original wine bar features excellent wine list plus artisanal cheeses, breads and antipasti. Open nightly at 5 pm. 823 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.238.8010. $$ Map Q15

Extraordinary Portions complete menu available at www.brians24.com

828 6th Ave • Gaslamp 619.702.8410

THE BEST HOTCAKES YOU’vE EvEr TASTEd

WE OLIVE Olive oil tasting room also includes coastalview wine bar featuring California wines and tastings of gourmet food items. L, D (daily). 1158 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.8250. $$ Map W19 wine steals Lively atmosphere and wine-friendly eats (cheeses, pizzas and charcuterie) at good prices. Open daily. 1953 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff, 760.230.2657, Map W22; 1243 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.295.1188, Map N17; 2970 Truxton Road, Point Loma, 619.221.1959. $$ Map J9 WINE VAULT & BISTRO A truly special find in Mission Hills, this place serves five-course set-menu wine dinners every Saturday, with wine flights and special events during the week. Food ranges from Italian to French to California, depending on the evening. 3731-A India St., S. Mission Hills, 619.295.3939. $$ Map P15

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Restaurants City Index Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine.

GASLAMP QUARTER AREA aCqua al 2 (Italian).............................................................................. 54 asti (Italian)................................................................................................... 54 barleymash (American)..................................................................... 50 bice (Italian).................................................................................................. 54 blue point (Seafood)............................................................................ 57 brian’s 24 (Breakfast)............................................................................ 51 buca di beppo (Italian)...................................................................... 54 cAFE SEVILLA (International)............................................................... 53 cHOPAHN (International)........................................................................ 53 croce’s (American)................................................................................. 50 dick’s last resort (American).................................................... 50 donovan’s (Steak)............................................................................... 58 donovan’s prime seafood (Seafood)............................... 57 LA FIESTA (Mexican)................................................................................. 57 fleming’s (Steak).................................................................................... 58 Georges on fifth (Steak)............................................................. 58 GHIRARDELLI SODA FOUNTAIN (Desserts)............................ 52 the grape (Wine bars).......................................................................... 59 greystone (Steak)................................................................................ 58 HEAVENLY CUPCAKE (Desserts)..................................................... 52 House of Blues (American)............................................................ 50 JSIX (California Cuisine)............................................................................... 51 katsuya (Japanese)................................................................................. 56 lou & mickey’s (Steak)..................................................................... 58 mccormick & schmick’s (Seafood) ...................................... 58 monsoon (International) .................................................................... 54 nOBU (Japanese)......................................................................................... 56 The oceanaire (Seafood)................................................................. 58 tHE OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY (Italian).................................. 55 osetrA (Seafood)...................................................................................... 58 osteria panevino (Italian)............................................................ 55 THE PALM RESTAURANT (Steak)................................................... 59 quality social (American).............................................................. 50 rama (Thai)................................................................................................. 59 red light district (American)..................................................... 50 rED PEARL KITCHEN (Chinese)....................................................... 51 rei do gado (International)............................................................... 54 royal INDIA (International)................................................................. 54 saltbox (American)................................................................................. 50 searsucker (American)....................................................................... 50 taka (Japanese)........................................................................................... 56

downtown/EAST VILLAGE/EMBARCADERO ANTHONY’S FISH GROTTO (Seafood)........................................ 57 cafe 222 (Breakfast)................................................................................ 51 cafe CHLOE (French)............................................................................. 53 CANDELAS (Mexican/Southwestern)................................................... 56 CounterpoinT (Wine Bars).............................................................. 59 Cowboy star (Steak).............................................. 58 dobson’s (California Cuisine).............................................................. 51 the fish market (Seafood) ............................................................ 58 grant grill (California Cuisine)........................................................ 51 the lion’s share (American)......................................................... 50 lotus thai (Thai)................................................................................... 59 the mission (Breakfast)....................................................................... 51 morton’s, THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak)................................... 59 panda inn (Chinese)............................................................................. 51 ra sushi (Japanese)................................................................................. 56 richard walker’s pancake HOUSE (Breakfast)......... 51 top of the market (Seafood)..................................................... 58 El Vitral (Mexican/Southwestern)...................................................... 57 YARD HOUSE (Brewpubs)...................................................................... 51

Little italy ANTHOLOGY (American)....................................................................... 50 bencotto (Italian)................................................................................. 54 CRAFT + COMMERCE (American)................................................... 50 davanti enoteca (Italian)............................................................. 55 extraordinary desserts (Desserts)................................... 52 indigo grill (Eclectic/Fusion)........................................................... 52

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la villa (Italian)........................................................................................ 55 trattoria fantastica (Italian)................................................. 55 underbelly (Japanese)........................................................................ 56 wine vault & bistro (Wine bars)............................................... 59

La jolla alfonso’s (Mexican/Southwestern)................................................. 56 A.R. Valentien (California Cuisine).................................................. 51 brockton villa (American)........................................................... 50 cafe japengo (Japanese)................................................................. 55 cups (Dessert)............................................................................................. 52 the cottage (Breakfast).................................................................... 51 donovan’s (Steak)............................................................................... 58 Eddie V’s prime seafood (Seafood)...................................... 57 fleming’s (Steak).................................................................................... 58 george’s at the cove (Cal. Cuisine)....................................... 51 marine room (French)....................................................................... 53 Mediterranean Room (International).................................... 54 michele coulon (Desserts)........................................................... 52 nine-ten (California Cuisine)................................................................. 51 piatti (Italian)............................................................................................... 55 roppongi (Eclectic/Fusion).................................................................. 52 sky room (California Cuisine).............................................................. 51 spice & rice (Thai)................................................................................. 59 Steakhouse at azul (Steak)....................................................... 59 sushi on the rock (Japanese).................................................... 56 tapEnade (French).................................................................................. 53 VIGILUCCI’S SEAFood, STEAK & CHOP HouSE (Steak).............................................. 59 Whisknladle (California Cuisine)..................................................... 51 we olive (Wine bar)................................................................................ 59 zenbu (Japanese)....................................................................................... 56

mission bay/beaches baleen (Seafood)...................................................................................... 57 Costa brava (International)............................................................... 54 JRDN (California Cuisine)............................................................................ 51 the mission (Breakfast)....................................................................... 51 pizza port (Brewpubs).......................................................................... 51

Harbor & shelter islandS point loma bali hai (Eclectic/Fusion)........................................................................ 52 the brigantine (Seafood)................................................................ 57 island Prime (Seafood)....................................................................... 58 jimmy’s famous American tavern (American)............................ 50 miguel’s cocina (Mexican/Southwestern).................................. 57 OLD venice (Italian)............................................................................... 55 wine steals (Wine bars)..................................................................... 59

CORONADO 1500 OCEAN (California Cuisine)......................................................... 51 bistro d’Asia (Eclectic/Fusion)......................................................... 52 the brigantine (Seafood)................................................................ 57 candelas (Mexican/Southwestern)................................................... 56 chez loma (French).............................................................................. 53 coronado boathouse 1887 (Seafood)............................. 57 coronado brewing co. (Brewpubs).................................... 51 il fornaio (Italian)................................................................................ 55 miguel’s cocina (Mexican/Southwestern).................................. 57 Mistral (California Cuisine).................................................................... 51 Peohe’s (Seafood).................................................................................... 58 swadee restauranT (Thai)......................................................... 59 Vigilucci’s Ristorante (Italian)............................................... 55

del mar/rancho Santa fe ADDISON (French)..................................................................................... 52 Arterra (California Cuisine).................................................................. 51 the brigantine (Seafood)................................................................ 57 burlap (Eclectic/Fusion).......................................................................... 52

davanti enoteca (Italian)............................................................. 55 DEL MAR RENDEZVOUS (Chinese)............................................... 51 Flavor del mar (California Cuisine)............................................. 51 en fuego (Mexican/Southwestern).................................................... 57 il fornaio (Italian)................................................................................ 55 kitchen 1540 (California Cuisine)...................................................... 51 MARKET (California Cuisine).................................................................... 51 mille fleurs (French).......................................................................... 53 pacifica del mar (Seafood)........................................................... 58

North coastal beach grass cafe (Breakfast)..................................................... 50 bluefire grill (California Cuisine)................................................... 51 the fish market (Seafood)............................................................. 58 Harney Sushi (Japanese)................................................................... 56 OCEAN HOUSE (American).................................................................. 50 PAMPLEMOUSSE grille (French)................................................. 53 pizza port (Brewpubs).......................................................................... 51 EL Q’ERO (International).......................................................................... 54 solace & the moonlight lounge (American)............................................................................. 50 TRATTORIA I TRULLI (Italian)............................................................. 55 VIGILUCCI’S SEAFOOD, STEAK & CHOP HOUSE (Steak)................................................. 59 vigilucci’s ristorante (Italian)............................................... 55 VINTAGE BISTRO (French)................................................................... 53 vivace (Italian)........................................................................................... 55 Wine steals (Wine bars)..................................................................... 59 zenbu (Japanese)....................................................................................... 56

escondido/La mesa gingham (American).............................................................................. 50 stone brewing co. (Brewpubs)................................................. 51 Vincent’s (French).................................................................................. 53

hillcrest/NORTH PARK/ mission hills Alchemy (International)......................................................................... 53 ARRIVEDERCI (Italian)............................................................................ 54 avenue 5 (American).............................................................................. 50 Bankers hill (American).................................................................... 50 bayu’s ethiopian cuisine (Int’l)............................................. 53 bertrand at mr. a’s (American)................................................ 50 blind lady ale house (Brewpubs)........................................... 51 CUCINA URBANA (Italian).................................................................. 54 extraordinary desserts (Desserts)................................... 52 hash house a go go (Breakfast)............................................. 51 The Linkery (California Cuisine)......................................................... 51 lotus thai (Thai)................................................................................... 59 the mission (Breakfast)....................................................................... 51 the prado (International).................................................................... 54 r gang eatery (American)............................................................... 50 snooze (Breakfast).................................................................................. 51 STARLITE (California Cuisine) .................................................................. 51 el take it easy (Mexican/Southwestern)...................................... 57 urban solace (American)................................................................ 50 wang’s (Chinese)...................................................................................... 52 wine steals (Wine bars)..................................................................... 59

Old town el agave (Mexican/Southwestern)...................................................... 56 berta’s (International).............................................................................. 53 cafe coyote (Mexican/Southwestern).......................................... 56 casa guadalajara (Mexican/Southwestern)......................... 56 Harney sushi (Japanese)................................................................... 56 jack & giulio’s (Italian).................................................................... 55 miguel’s cocina (Mexican)............................................................. 57 old town mexican cafe (Mexican)..................................... 57

Mission valley/kearny mesa JASMINE SEAFOOD (Chinese).......................................................... 51

5/10/12 4:21 PM

Entertainment Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 76–79. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index

Festivals .................................61 Special Events...........................61 Theater...................................61 Music + Dance...................65 Sports....................................67 Casinos.................................68

Attractions...........................68 Wineries...............................69 Museums.............................70 Destination Shopping.......71 Nightlife................................72 Tours.......................................74

Festivals san diego jewish arts festival Through June 7. The annual festival is a celebration of heritage featuring music, theater, visual arts and dance. Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.544.1000. Map Q16 MAINLY MOZART festival Through June 23. The region’s largest spring music festival is a celebration of Mozart and other classical masters. Various venues.

619.239.0100 x 2.

Summer shakespeare Festival June 3-Sept.

30. The Old Globe presents Richard III, As You Like It and Inherit the Wind, performed in nightly repertory on the outdoor stage. 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.234.5623. Map Q17 Del Mar Summer Solstice June 21, 5-8 pm. Annual culinary event features samples from top Del Mar eateries, wine and beer tastings and live music. Powerhouse Park, 1658 Coast Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1179. Map X22 San Diego International beer Festival June 22-24. Handcrafted beers are featured in the sixth annual event, with more than 300 brews from 150 international breweries. Del Mar Fairgrounds, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1161. Map X22 La jolla festival of arts June 23-24. Celebrating its 26th year, neighborhood art festival hosts nearly 200 award-winning local and national artists. UCSD’s East Campus, La Jolla, 858.456.1268. Map T20 International Summer Organ festival June 25-Aug. 27. The festival comes into its 25th year. Monday night performances by internationally renowned musicians showcase the world’s largest outdoor pipe organ. Spreckels Organ Pavilion, Balboa Park, 619.702.8138. Map O17 San diego pride festival July 20-22. The 38th annual LGBT celebration is one of the largest in the nation. Parade: Sa 11 am at University Ave. and Normal St. Festival: Sa noon-10 pm, Su 11 am-8 pm. Balboa Park, 619.297.7683. Map V22 sUMMERfesT July 31-Aug. 24. La Jolla Music Society’s 26th annual classical music festival. Various locations.

858.459.3728.

SAN DIEGO SPIRITS FESTIVAL Aug. 25-26. Celeb judges vote on the latest in liquors and mixology. 21+. Port Pavilion on Broadway Pier, 1000 N. Harbor Drive, downtown, 858.551.1605. Map L11

Special Events cinema under the stars Ongoing (Th-Su). Classic and newer films screened outdoors; films begin at

8:30 pm. June 2-3: Chocolat; June 7-8: The Lady Vanishes; June 9-10: Niagara; June 14-15: Dark Passage; June 16-17: From Russia With Love; June 21-22: Don Juan De Marco; June 23-24: Arsenic and Old Lace; June 28-29: Annie Hall; June 30-July 1: Citizen Kane; July 5-8: Casablanca ; July 12-13: Viva Las Vegas; July 14-15: Marnie; July 19-20: Key Largo; July 21-22: Let’s Make Love; July 26-27: It Happened One Night; July 28-29: In A Lonely Place; Aug. 2-3: Touch of Evil; Aug. 4-5: How To Steal a Million; Aug. 9-10: The Third Man; Aug. 11-12: The Bishop’s Wife; Aug. 16-17: The Wizard of Oz; Aug. 18-19: Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom; Aug. 23-24: Strangers on a Train; Aug. 25-26: Breakfast at Tiffany’s. 4040 Goldfinch St., Mission Hills, 619.295.4221. Map N15 San Diego County Fair June 8-July 4 (closed June 11, 18 and 25). San Diego’s largest annual event adopts an outer-space theme, featuring car shows, animals, games, exhibits, carnival rides, arts and crafts, concerts and more. Del Mar Fairgrounds, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1161. Map X22 taste of Adams Avenue June 24. More than 25 restaurants along Adams Ave. serve anything from pasta to Mexican food to dessert. Adams Ave., Normal Heights, 619.282.7329. Map I12 San diego big bay fireworks July 4. A festive display of fireworks from barges in the bay. Best viewing sites include downtown, Coronado, Harbor and Shelter islands and Imperial Beach. 619.686.6200. Map X22 coronado independence day celebration ­ July 4. Parade starts at 10 am at Orange Ave. between Sixth and Seventh Sts.; concert in Spreckels Park at 6 pm; fireworks over Glorietta Bay at 9 pm. Coronado, 619.437.8788. Map K10 Comic-con international July 12-15. The nation’s largest comics convention celebrates its 43rd year with comic-book publishers, game companies, film studios and toy makers. Sold out. San Diego Convention Center, 111 W. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.491.2475. Map Q15 Screen on the green Movies show Fridays at 8 pm on the San Diego Museum of Art’s lawn. July 21: Ivanhoe; July 28: Beat the Devil; Aug. 4: Love Aaj Kal. 1450 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.7931. Map O17 san diego music awards Aug. 13. Awards given to emerging and established local musicians to benefit music education in schools. Live performances by acts TBA. Humphrey’s by the Bay, 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577. Map F4

RINGLING BROTHERS and BARNUM & BAILEY CIRCUS Aug. 23-26. Hiigh-voltage fun featuring superhuman stunts, four-ton elephants, Kung Fu Kings and more. Top acrobatic troupes from Russia and China are highlights. Valley View Casino Center, 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway District, 619.224.4171.

Map N13

Theater an iliad Aug. 11-Sept. 9. On a bare stage, a storyteller revisits Homer’s epic, focusing on the glory and honor of war, as well as the loneliness and pain it leaves behind. Mandell Weiss Forum at the La Jolla Playhouse, UCSD, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010. Map T20 as you like it June 10-Sept. 30. Shakespeare’s comedy about flirtation, friendship and mistaken identity is a lighthearted look at the fickle nature of love. Part of the Old Globe’s Summer Shakespeare Festival. Lowell Davies Festival Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16

Cinema in style

Going to the movies just got a whole lot more luxe, as the Mexican chain Cinepolis moves into the U.S. market with a $5 million luxury eight-screen theater in the newly renovated Del Mar Highlands Town Center (there’s another six-screen location in Carlsbad). Each auditorium seats just 80 cinephiles in high-back leather recliners equipped with in-seat waiter service; order from a menu that includes sushi rolls, Tiramisu and spicy popcorn, plus local craft beer, wine and cocktails.

And with seven feet of space between each row, there’s plenty of room to stretch out or cuddle up to your special seatmate. 12905 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.794.4045 and 6941 El Camino Real, Carlsbad, 760.603.8638

It’s not just fried food and carnival rides at the San Diego County Fair; there’s concerts too, with acts including Kenny Loggins, Matisyahu and local boys Switchfoot. p. 66

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Get ready to be floored!

Start your engines—because a brand-new land is coming to Disney California Adventure ® Park! All around you, the sights and sounds of Radiator Springs bring the world of the Disney/Pixar Cars films to life.

Buckle up for fun on Radiator Springs Racers, Mater’s Junkyard Jamboree and Luigi’s Flying Tires. Fuel up on tasty treats at places like Flo’s V8 Cafe and Fillmore’s Taste-in. And be sure to cruise by at night, when the neon lights shine brighter than Lightning’s paint job!

Race over to disneyland.com/getfloored to find out more!

Opens June 15

©Disney/Pixar ©Disney DLRTIM- 12-22646

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blood and gifts June 12-July 8. Set in Washington D.C., Pakistan and Afghanistan, this darkly funny work of historical fiction tells the story of the secret spy war behind the official Soviet-Afghan War of the ‘80s. Mandell Weiss Forum at the La Jolla Playhouse, UCSD, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010. Map T20 daMes at sea July 7-29. An all-singing, all-dancing tap extravaganza about an energetic All-American girl who arrives in the Big Apple with nothing but a pair of tap shoes in her suitcase. North Coast Repertory Theatre, 987-D Lomas Santa Fe Drive, Solana Beach, 858.481.1055. Map X22

June 23-September 2

San Diego’s Finest Entertainment on the Waterfront

divine rivalrY July 7-Aug. 12. Set in 16th-century Florence, Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci face off in a painting competition orchestrated by Niccolo Machiavelli. Old Globe Theatre, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16 god of carnage July 27-Sept. 2. Tony Awardwinning comedy sensation about parents behaving badly (contains strong language). White Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.

GLOBE. Map Q16 hands on a hardbodY Through June 17. Phish’s Trey Anastasio scores this world premiere musical about 10 strangers competing to win a new truck, based on a true story. La Jolla Playhouse, UCSD, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010. Map T20 inherit the wind June 17-Sept. 25. The Old Globe’s Shakespeare Festival’s lone non-Bard play is loosely based on the Scopes Monkey Trial, a taut legal drama about the age-old conflict between science and faith.

Lowell Davies Festival Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16

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WilSon PhilliPS

Table seating • Fireworks conclude Fri & Sat concerts Embarcadero Marina Park South, behind the Convention Center

tickEtS StaRt at $18!

call 619.235.0804 or ViSit sandiegosymphony.com

joe vs. the volcano June 15-July 29 (previews June 8-14). World-premiere musical based on the cult Tom Hanks film about a young man who rediscovers his life and learns about love, adventure and the importance of a good set of luggage. Lamb’s Players Theatre, 1142 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.0600. Map L10 la cage auX folles Aug. 7-12. Family bonds are tested and feather boas fly as a boy brings his fiancée’s conservative parents home to meet his nightclubowner father and his flashy partner. Broadway/San Diego, Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16

T HE O CEAN A WAITS.

les Miserables Aug. 28-Sept. 2. This touring production of the legendary Broadway musical is brand-new for its 25th anniversary, with dazzlingly reimagined scenery inspired by the paintings of Victor Hugo. Broadway/San Diego, Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16 Man of la Mancha July 5-Aug. 26. Musical tells the story of Cervantes’ bumbling knight who lives in a world of madness. Cygnet Theatre in Old Town, 4040 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.337.1525. Map E3 MeMphis July 24-29. A white radio DJ who wants to change the world and a black club singer ready for her big break are at the center of this rock ‘n’ roll musical set in 1950s Tennessee. Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16 the nightingale July 10-Aug. 5. Moises Kaufman’s musical-in-development is based on Hans Christian Andersen’s classic tale and features new music from Duncan Sheik. Potiker Theatre at the La Jolla Playhouse, UCSD, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010. Map T20 nobodY loves You Through June 17. This world premiere musical comedy follows Jeff as he joins a reality show to try and win back his ex, until he breaks all the rules and blows the game wide open. White Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16

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Open daily 9-5 • 2300 Expedition Way in La Jolla • 858-534-FISH • aquarium.ucsd.edu

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Entertainment RICHARD III June 3-Sept. 29. Shakespeare’s ruthless villain embarks on a bloody campaign to seize and keep the English crown in this Old Globe Summer Shakespeare Festival production. Lowell Davies Festival Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16 THE SCOTTSBORO BOYS Through June 10. Based on the notorious 1930s Scottsboro case, this inspiring story tells of the nine unjustly accused AfricanAmerican men whose lives would eventually spark the Civil Rights Movement. Old Globe Theatre, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16

Santa ana Condition:

John Valadez 1976–2011 June 10 – September 2, 2012 For thirty-five years, John Valadez has depicted the people and places of Southern California in his exquisite pastels and richly hued canvases. Moving from the realistic to the fantastic, Los angeles-based Valadez conveys qualities of the city’s lived reality and imagined potential.

La JoLLa 700 Prospect Street 858 454 3541 www.mcasd.org John Valadez, Santa Ana Condition, 1985, pastel on paper. Collection of Boise art Museum.

Gift of Eileen and Peter norton. Photo: Jonny Fuego.

SEE HOW THEY RUN Aug. 17-Sept. 23 (previews Aug. 10-16). Philip King’s hilarious British-wartime caper is filled with extraordinary characters, mistaken identities and surprise visitors. Lamb’s Players Theatre, 1142 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.0600. Map L10 WICKED June 20-July 15. This touring production of Broadway’s biggest blockbuster imagines life in the Emerald City before Dorothy’s arrival from Kansas. Broadway/ San Diego, Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16 ZOOT SUIT July 14-Aug. 12. Playwright Luis Valdez’ play is a muscular mix of historical fact and agitprop fiction featuring a live onstage Latin orchestra and choreography by Javier Velasco. Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.231.3586. Map Q16 For day-of-show, half-price tickets, visit the Arts Tix booth in downtown San Diego at Horton Plaza, 619.497.5000, or at California Center for the Arts in Escondido, 360 N. Escondido Blvd., 800.988.4253, or visit www.sandiegoperforms.com.

Music + Dance ARTPOWER! Alternative music/performance series.

June 2: Ben Howard; June 7: Patrick Watson. The Loft at UCSD, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.534.TIXS, Map T20 ATHENAEUM MUSIC AND ARTS LIBRARY June 14-16: soundON Festival of Modern Music at 1008 Wall St., La Jolla Map W19 July 8, 15, 22 and 29: Summer Festival at the Neurosciences Institute, feat. Gustavo Romero, piano, commemorating the 150th birthday of Claude Debussy. Call for complete schedule. 10654 John Jay Hopkins Drive, La Jolla, 858.454.5872.

Map S20

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BALBOA THEATRE June 6, 9, 12, 14, 16: Mainly Mozart Festival Orchestra w/ featured guests; July 12: w00tstock 4.0: A Night of Geeks + Music; July 13: Nerdist Podcast Live feat. Chris Hardwick, Jonah Ray & Matt Mira; July 14: Bo Burnham. Call for complete schedule. 868 Fourth Ave., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16 BIRCH AQUARIUM AT SCRIPPS Green Flash Seaside Summer Concert Series. Live music on the plaza with ocean view at sunset. June 20: Needtobreathe; July 18: Matt Nathanson; Aug. 15: The Dunwells and Heartless Bastards. 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.

FISH. Map R15 BIRCH NORTH PARK THEATRE June 1-3: FilmOut festival; June 9: Expressions Dance Showcase; June 23-24, 28-30 and July 5-8: Rent (San Diego Musical Theatre). 2891 University Ave., North Park, 619.239.8836. Map N18 CRICKET WIRELESS AMPHITHEATER June 27: Vans Warped Tour; July 20: Big Time Summer Tour w/ Big Time Rush and Rachel Crow; Aug. 12: Kiss & Mötley Crüe; Aug. 14: Neil Diamond; Aug. 25: Slightly Stoopid & 311. Call ahead for complete schedule. 2050 Entertainment Circle, Chula Vista, 619.671.3600. Map F4

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Entertainment Harrah’s Rincon Casino—Open Sky Theater June 22: Melissa Etheridge. Call for complete schedule. 777 Harrah’s Rincon Way, Valley Center, 877.777.2457. Map B4 Humphrey’s concerts by the bay June 1: Chris Botti; June 15: Indigo Girls w/ The Shadowboxers; June 20: k.d. lang; June 24: The Queen Extravaganza; June 25: Dukes of September Rhythm Review 2012 feat. Boz Scaggs, Michael McDonald, Donald Fagen; July 2: Lyle Lovett; July 22: Happy Together Tour 2012: The Turtles feat. Flo & Eddie, Gary Puckett & The Union Gap, The Grass Roots, Micky Dolenz of The Monkees & The Buckinghams; July 13: Lisa Lampanelli; July 20: Ringo Starr & His All Star Band; July 22: An Evening with Yanni Under The Stars; July 26-27: Sheryl Crow; July 29: Earth, Wind and Fire; Aug. 1: Los Lonely Boys w/ North Mississippi Allstars Duo; Aug. 2: Chris Isaak; Aug. 6: Seal w/Macy Gray; Aug. 9: Buddy Guy / Jonny Lang; Aug. 10: Gipsy Kings; Aug. 12: America; Aug. 14: Colbie Caillat/Gavin DeGraw; Aug. 15: Dead Can Dance; Aug. 16: Joan Rivers; Aug. 17: The Fab Four; Aug. 18: Yes; Aug. 21: Esperanza Spalding; Aug. 23: Steve Martin & The Steep Canyon Rangers, An Evening of Bluegrass & Banjo; Aug. 24: Air Supply w/ John Waite. 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577. Map F4 la jolla SUMMERFEST July 31-Aug. 24: La Jolla Music Society’s 26th annual classical music festival: July 31: SummerFest Outdoor Concert Ellen Browning Scripps Park, 1133 Coast Blvd., La Jolla, Map V20 Aug. 3: Opening Night; Aug. 4: Tan Dun’s Water Passion; Aug. 5: Baroque Masterworks; Aug. 7: Schubert I: A Journey Through Time; Aug. 8: An Evening with Branford Marsalis; Aug. 10: Commissions and Premières; Aug. 11: SummerFest White Nights Gala; Aug. 12: Tokyo String Quartet; Aug. 14: Schubert II: Soiree Musicale; Aug. 15: An Evening with Igudesman & Joo: “A Little Nightmare Music;” Aug. 17: Beethoven: The Other Masterpieces; Aug. 18: Viva Tango! An Evening with Pablo Ziegler; Aug. 19: A Family Affair; Aug. 21: Schubert III: Freunde und Freude; Aug. 22: The Complete Brahms Trios; Aug. 24: SummerFest Finale.

Various locations. 858.459.3728.

La jolla symphony and chorus June 9-10: The Russian Composer: Steven Schick conducts Igor Korneitchouk’s Tintinnabulation (World Premiere), Samuel Barber’s Piano Concerto and Igor Stravinsky’s The Firebird feat. guest artist Aleck Karis, piano. Mandeville Auditorium at UCSD, La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.534.4637. Map T20 mainly mozart festival June 1-2: Ida Levin, Marie Berard (violins); Che-Yen Chen, Richard O’Neill (violas); Ronals Thomas, Robert Demaine (cellos) perform Boccherini, Strauss and Verdi (June 1) and Mozart and Brahms (June 2); June 6: festival orchestra feat. Lynn Harrell (cello) and Anthony McGill (clarinet) playing Haydn, Tchaikovsky, Weber and Mozart; June 9-10: festival orchestra feat. James Ehnes (violin) performing Bach, Mozart, Saint-Saëns and Schubert; June 12: festival orchestra feat. Timothy Day (flute) and Jessica Li Zhou (harp) performing Mozart, Wagner and Prokofiev; June 14: festival orchestra feat. Nathan Hughes (oboe) and Anton Nel (piano) performing Mozart and Mendelssohn; June 16: festival orchestra feat. Adam Neiman (piano) performing Mozart, Handel, Pachelbel, Beethoven and Grieg; June 22-23: Lynn Harrell (cello) and Anne-Marie McDermott (piano) perform Beethoven’s Cello Sonatas. Various venues.

619.239.0100 x 2. open air theatre at sdsu July 29: Tenacious D. Call for complete schedule. 5500 Campanile Drive, SDSU, 619.594.0429. Map E3 SAN DIEGO CIVIC THEATER June 14: New Edition; July 17: IL DIVO & Orchestra. 1100 Third Ave., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16 San Diego County Fair concerts Most events free with Fair admission except those noted with (*).

June 8: Cobra Starship; June 9: 8th Annual Gospel Fes-

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tival feat. Donnie McClurkin; June 10: Larry Hernández; June 12: Demi Lovato; June 13: Cody Simpson; June 14: Kenny Loggins; June 15: Switchfoot; June 16: Reik; June 17: Joan Sebastian*; June 19: Joan Jett & the Blackhearts; June 20: Hot Chelle Rae; June 21: Lonestar; June 22: Grand Funk Railroad; June 23: Jeff Dunham*; June 24: La Arrolladora Banda El Limón; June 26: Scott McCreery*; June 27: Gabriel Iglesias*; June 28: Creedence Clearwater Revisited; June 29: KC and the Sunshine Band; June 30: Train*; July 1: Julión Álvarez; July 2: Summerland Tour feat. Everclear, Sugar Ray, Gin Blossoms, Lit; July 3: Matisyahu; July 4: “Weird Al” Yankovic and fireworks. Del Mar Fairgrounds, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1161. Map X22 SAN DIEGO SYMPHONY SUMMER POPS June 23: Tribute To The Beatles; June 29-July 1: Star Spangled Pops; July 6-7: Roberta Flack; July 8: Doc Severinsen; July 12: Legend of Zelda; July 13-14: The Temptations; July 20-21: Peking Acrobats; July 27-28: Music of Abba; July 29: Dave Koz; Aug. 3-4: Broadway Rocks; Aug. 10-11: Neil Sedaka; Aug. 12: Pops Goes Classical; Aug. 17-18: Wilson Phillips; Aug. 19: Pirates of the Carribean; Aug. 23: Music of Michael Jackson; Aug. 24-25: Music of the Eagles; Aug. 31-Sept. 1: 1812 Tchaikovsky.

Embarcadero Marina Park South, Embarcadero, 619.235.0804. Map Q14 SPRECKELS ORGAN PAVILION Su, 2–3 pm. Free concerts on the world’s largest outdoor pipe organ.

Balboa Park, 619.702.8138. Map O17 SPRECKELS tHEAtRE June 15: Kris Kristofferson.

Call for complete schedule. 121 Broadway, downtown, 800.745.3000. Map Q16 twILIGHt IN tHE PARK June 19-Aug. 30.

Tu-Th 6:15 pm. Concert series featuring live music, from Dixieland to Latin Salsa. Spreckels Organ Pavilion, Balboa Park, 619.239.0512. Map O17

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VALLEY VIEw CASINO CENtER (formerly San Diego Sports Arena). June 9: LMFAO, Far East Movement; June 20: Scorpions, Tesla; June 23: Art Laboe Freestyle Explosion. Call for complete schedule. 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway, 619.224.4171. Map N13

4/18/12 12:06 PM

VIEjAS ARENA At SDSU June 14: Van Halen. Call for complete schedule. 5500 Canyon Crest Drive, SDSU, 619.594.0429. Map E3

Sports SAN DIEGO PADRES Major League Baseball. June 1-3: Arizona Diamondbacks; June 5-7: S.F. Giants; June 18-20: Texas Rangers; June 22-24: Seattle Mariners; July 5-8: Cincinatti Reds; July 16-19: Houston Astros; July 20-22: Colorado Rockies; Aug. 3-5: N.Y. Mets; Aug. 6-8: Chicago Cubs; Aug. 17-19: S.F. Giants; Aug. 20-22: Pittsburgh Pirates; Aug. 27-29: Atlanta Braves. Petco Park, 100 Park Blvd., East Village, 619.795.5000. Map Q16 30tH ANNUAL SAN DIEGO INtERNAtIONAL tRIAtHLON June 24. Features a 1K swim, 30K bike ride, 10K run and a sprint course. Starts at Spanish Landing Park and ends at Embarcadero.

858.268.1250. Map K9 59tH ANNUAL wORLD CHAMPIONSHIP OVERtHE-LINE tOURNAMENt July 14-15, 21-22. Threemember teams compete in S.D.’s original beach softball event. Colorful event for mature audiences. Fiesta Island, Mission Bay, 619.330.2227. Map I9

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DEL MAR RACING July 18-Sept. 5. Thoroughbred racing five days a week (dark M and Tu). Post time most days is 2 pm. Special events include Four O’Clock Fridays concert series and Beer Festival. Del Mar Fairgrounds, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1141. Map X22

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Attractions + Museums Camp pendleton sprint triathlon Aug. 4.

Includes a 500-yard swim, a 30K bike ride and a 5K run. I-5 at Camp Pendleton/Harbor Drive exit, Camp Pendleton, 760.725.6836. Map W23 america’s finest city half-marathon Aug. 19. Athletes test their endurance on this 13.1-mile course. Half-marathon begins at historic Cabrillo National Monument, follows the waterfront through downtown and ends in Balboa Park. Event also features a 5K run/walk in Balboa Park. Entry is $95 before June 19; $100 after. Cabrillo National Monument, 1800 Cabrillo Memorial Drive, Point Loma, 760.692.2900. Map L8

Casinos BARONA VALLEY RANCH RESORT AND CASINO More than 2,000 slot machines, 70+ table games, satellite wagering and an all-you-can-eat buffet. Daily, 24 hours. 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Lakeside, 619.443.2300. Map D4 CASINO PAUMA Tropically themed complex with more than 35,000 square feet of gaming, 850 slots, 24 table games, poker parlor and non-smoking section.

Daily, 24 hours. 777 Pauma Reservation Road, Pauma Valley, 760.891.7900. Map A4 PALA RESORT AND CASINO Features 2,250 state-of-the-art slots and video machines, 85 Vegas-style gaming tables, eight restaurants and entertainment in two lounges. 11154 Hwy. 76, Pala, 760.510.5100. Map A3 PECHANGA RESORT AND CASINO Video machines, table games, lunch buffet and entertainment center ­featuring live concerts and ­professional boxing.

Alcohol served. Daily, 24 hours. 45000 Pechanga Parkway, Temecula, 951.693.1819. Map A3 HARRAH’S RINCON CASINO Slots paradise. Daily, 24 hours. 777 Harrah’s Rincon Way, Valley Center, 760.751.3100. Map B4 SYCUAN CASINO Find high-stakes bingo, pai gow poker, slots and four restaurants at this East County gambling hall, plus a 500-seat theater. Daily, 24 hours.

5469 Casino Way, El Cajon, 619.445.6002. Map D5

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VALLEY VIEW CASINO High-limit blackjack, 1,750 slots, steakhouse and 24-hour café, free valet parking and separate non-smoking gaming and bar area. Daily, 24 hours. 16300 Nyemii Pass Road, Valley Center, 760.291.5500. Map B4 VIEJAS CASINO This Alpine casino features more than 2,500 Vegas–style slots, table games, satellite wagering, high-stakes bingo, buffet and six restaurants. Daily, 24 hours. 5000 Willows Road, Alpine, 800.847.6537. Map D5

Attractions

All for up to 70% less than retail.

BELMONT PARK A beachfront landmark with the ­historic Giant Dipper roller coaster, Wave House, ­Liberty Carousel, a family playland, SoCal’s largest indoor pool, arcades and more. Call for dates and hours. 3190 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.1549. Map I8 BIRCH AQUARIUM AT SCRIPPS Explore one of the U.S.’s largest oceanographic museums, and enjoy a ­spectacular view from the tidepool plaza. Open daily 9 am–5 pm. $14; seniors $10; kids 3-17 $9.50; children 2 and under free. Three-hour courtesy parking. 2300 ­Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.3474. Map U20 cabrillo NATIONAL MONUMENT Exhibits, whale watching, tidepools, trails, the restored Old Point Loma

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Attractions + Museums

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Lighthouse and spectacular views. Daily 9 am–5 pm. $3-5. 1800 Cabrillo Memorial Drive, Point Loma, 619.557.5450. Map L8

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k1 speed SoCal’s first electric indoor kart racing center lets 20-horsepower electric karts roam 70,000 square feet of space; arcade games, too. 6212 Corte del Abeto, Carlsbad, 760.929.2225. Map U23 LEGOLAND Find 50+ rides and shows and Sea Life Aquarium’s seven-foot-long Lego submarine. Also check out the recently opened waterpark complete with lazy river. Adults $72; kids 3–12 $62 (add $15/ticket for admission to aquarium or water park; add $25/ticket for admission to all three). Aquarium-only: adults $20, kids 3-12 $15. Parking $12–20. Call for hours. 1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad, 760.918.5346. Map U22 safari PARK (formerly the Wild Animal Park). Take a safari adventure through the 1,800–acre wildlife preserve, home to herds of exotic animals roaming in vast enclosures ­resembling African and Asian plains.

Safari packages start at $42 for adults; ­children 3–11 $32; kids 2 and under free. Cars $10–15. Daily 9-5 pm (till 7 pm June 30–Aug. 19; till 6 pm Aug. 20–Sept.

3). 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, 760.747.8702. Map C3 San diego BOTANIC GARDEN One of the world’s most diverse plant collections. Daily 9 am–5 pm (till 8 pm Th). $12; seniors 60+ $8; kids 3-12 $6; kids 2 and under free. Parking $2. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas, 760.436.3036. Map V22 SAN DIEGO ZOO World-famous zoo has more than 4,000 rare and endangered animals in state–of–the–art environment. $42; kids 3–11 $32; kids 2 and under free. Free parking. Open daily 9 am-9 pm (till 6 pm June 1-21). 2920 Zoo Drive, Balboa Park, 619.231.1515. Map O17

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SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including killer whales plus fish, reptiles and birds. $73; kids 3–9 $65; kids 2 and under free. Parking $14-19. Open daily; call for hours and combo rates. 500 SeaWorld Drive, Mission Bay Park, 800.25.SHAMU. Map I8

5/12/11 2:36 PM

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Wineries bernardo winery Founded in 1899 by Sicilian winemakers, this is the oldest continuously operating winery in SoCal. Also on-site: a restaurant, chocolatier and art galleries, including a glassblowing studio. Tastings daily. 13330 Paseo Del Verano N., Rancho Bernardo, 858.487.1866. Map C4 CARRUTH CELLARS Urban winery and tasting room makes wine from Northern California grapes; tastings W-Su. 320 S. Cedros Ave. #400, Solana Beach, 858.847.9463. Map X22 L.A. CETTO The largest winery in Baja’s scenic wine region, which produces 90% of Mexico’s wine. Open daily for tastings; also features olive oil, chocolates and gifts. KM 73.5 Tecate-Ensenada Highway, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico, lacetto.com.

Ca rol Ga rdy n e b o u t i q u e & s tu d i o LITTLE ITALY 1840 Columbia Street San Diego, CA 92101 619.233.8066

MENGHINI WINERY Boutique Julian winery produces just 4,000 cases of Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon annually. Tastings daily. 1150 Julian Orchards Drive, Julian, 760.765.2072. Map C6 ORFILA VINEYARDS Growing Syrah, Viognier, Muscat Canelli and more, this boutique winery produces about 10,000 cases of Rhone-style wines annually. 13455 San Pasqual Road, Escondido, 760.738.6500. Map C3 PONTE FAMILY ESTATE WINERY This 300-acre vineyard grows mostly Cabernet, Merlot and Chardonnay, plus other Italian varieties; tasting room open daily. 35053 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.694.8855. Map A2

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Attractions + Museums THORNTON WINERY Medal-winning sparkling winery is housed in a vineyard-view chateau in Temecula. Tasting lounge open daily; tours on weekends. 32575 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.699.0099. Map A2 WILSON CREEK WINERY AND VINEYARD Known for its almond champagne, this Tuscan-inspired estate also includes a restaurant and tasting room, both open daily. 35960 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.699.9463. Map A2 WITCH CREEK WINERY Two tasting rooms, including one in the heart of Carlsbad, offer samplings of Witch Creek’s full-bodied wines daily, each with a feline-inspired name. 2906 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.765.2023, Map T22; 2000 Main St., Julian, 760.720.7499. Map C6

Museums CALIFORNIA SURF MUSEUM Collection of surfing artifacts and memorabilia, plus exhibits about surfing legends. Rare surfing collectibles in museum gift shop.

Daily 10 am–4 pm, Th 10 am-8 pm. Adults $5; seniors/ military/students $3; kids under 12 free. 312 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.721.6876. Map S22 MARITIME MUSEUM Visit the 1863 barque Star of India (world’s oldest active ship), the 1898 steam ferryboat Berkeley, the 1904 steam yacht Medea, a Soviet-era submarine and the HMS Surprise, the Royal Navy frigate featured in the film Master and Commander.

Daily 9 am–9 pm. $15; seniors/military/teens $11; kids 6-12 $8; children 5 and under free. The schooner Californian also offers half-day sailing trips ($31-42). 1492 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.234.9153. Map P14 MINGEI INTERNATIONAL MUSEUM Exhibits celebrate folk art. Tu–Su 10 am–4 pm. $5–8; children 5 and under free. 1439 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.0003. Map O17 MISSION SAN DIEGO DE ALCALÁ The first of 21 missions stretching north along the California coast, this one was established by Junípero Serra in 1769 on Presidio Hill and moved to this site in 1774. Daily mass in the chapel at 7 am and 5:30 pm and tools and artifacts on display. Visitor’s center open daily 9 am–4:45 pm.

Adults $3; kids/seniors $2. 10818 San Diego Mission Road, Mission Valley, 619.281.8449. Map I12 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART SAN DIEGO Renowned for its vast collection and thoughtprovoking exhibits, this museum features post-1950s art spanning many genres and media. Both locations open Th–Tu 11 am–5 pm, third Th 11 am–7 pm. Closed W. $5-10 admission valid for 7 days; ages 25 and under free; free third Th 5-7 pm. 700 Prospect St., La Jolla, Map W19; 1001 and 1100 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 858.454.3541. Map Q15 MUSEUM OF MAKING MUSIC Vintage instruments, interactive audio and visual exhibits offer dynamic look into the history of American popular music. Tu–Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–8; kids 5 and under free. 5790 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, 760.438.5996. Map U23

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MUSEUM OF PHOTOGRAPHIC ARTS Collection includes contemporary photography, social documentary and photojournalism. Film screenings, too. Tu-Su 10 am–5 pm, Th 10 am-9 pm. $5–8; kids 12 and under free. 1649 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.7559. Map O17 NEW CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Downtown’s newest museum, designed just for kids, encourages visitors to touch and interact with exhibits. M-Sa 10 am–4 pm (Th till 6 pm; closed W); Su noon-4 pm. $10; seniors/military $5; children under 1 free. Free second Su. 200 W. Island Ave., downtown, 619.233.8792. Map Q16 OCEANSIDE MUSEUM OF ART Regional and international artists showcased in exhibits ranging

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Shopping from landscape painting to studio furniture, neon sculpture, art quilts and architectural glass.

Tu–Sa 10 am–4 pm, Su 1-4 pm. $5–8 (students/ military free). 704 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.435.3720. Map S22

4 famous attractions

26%

REUBEN H. FLEET SCIENCE CENTER Interactive science galleries invite visitors to explore the wonders of astronomy and physics. Giant-screen films run in the IMAX Dome Theater. M-Th 10 am–5 pm (open later during holiday breaks), F till 8 pm, Sa till 8 pm, Su till 6 pm. $9.75-11.75 (IMAX films extra); kids 2 and under free. 1875 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.1233. Map O17 SAN DIEGO AIR & SPACE MUSEUM Hot-air balloons, jets and historic aircraft from around the world. Daily 10 am–5:30 pm. $7-17.50 (Space exhibition admission is $12-24), kids 2 and under free. 2001 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.8291. Map P17 SAN DIEGO HALL OF CHAMPIONS Three levels and 68,000 square feet of sports exhibits and interactive displays form the largest multi-sports museum in the U.S. Daily 10 am–4:30 pm. $6; seniors/military $4; kids 7-17 $3; kids 6 and under free. 2131 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.2544. Map O17

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SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF ART Diverse collection includes Italian Renaissance and Spanish Baroque works, 19th–20th century American and ­European paintings and sculptures and a vast Asian collection. M–Sa 10 am–5 pm (closed W), Su noon-5 pm. $4.50–12; kids 6 and under free. 1450 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.7931. Map O17 SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF MAN Go on a journey of the human experience highlighting our physical and cultural development through permanent and changing exhibits. Daily 10 am–4:30 pm; $5–12.50; children 2 and under free. 1350 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.2001. Map O17 SAN DIEGO NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Dinosaur displays, giant-screen films, photography exhibitions and more. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $11–17; children 2 and under free; free for active military first Tu. 1788 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.3821.

Map O17

Universal Studios HollywoodSM

STUART COLLECTION OF SCULPTURE Scattered across the UCSD campus, outdoor art collection includes talking and singing trees, Sun God and more.

Free. Gilman and La Jolla Village drives, La Jolla, 858.534.2230. Map T20 USS MIDWAY The world’s largest floating naval-aviation museum has restored airplanes on the flight deck and interactive exhibits inside. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $10–18; military/kids 5 and under free. 910 N. ­Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.544.9600. Map Q14

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Destination Shopping CARLSBAD PREMIUM OUTLETS 90 outlet stores (Barneys New York to Polo Ralph Lauren to Banana Republic) in a nice outdoor setting. 5620 Paseo del Norte, Carlsbad, 760.804.9000. Map U22

(888) 330-5008 or citypass.com

DEL MAR PLAZA With more than 20 shops, including Banana Republic and Chico’s, and nine restaurants, this gorgeous tri-level boutique shopping plaza overlooks the Pacific Ocean. 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.1555. Map X22 ATLANTA | BOSTON | CHICAGO | HOLLYWOOD | HOUSTON | NEW YORK CITY PHILADELPHIA | SAN FRANCISCO | SEATTLE | TORONTO Pricing and programs are subject to change.

FASHION VALLEY Beautiful bi-level, outdoor mall with 200+ shops like Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and Tory Burch, five department stores, eight restaurants and 18-screen movie theater. 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.688.9113. Map J10

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Nightlife the foruM at carlsbad Elegant, tree-lined outdoor center with dozens of shops and restaurants, including Anthropologie and Sur La Table. 1905 Calle Barcelona, Carlsbad, 760.479.0166. Map V23 las aMericas preMiuM outlets Spanish Colonial-style outlet mall has 125+ shops. 4211 Camino de la Plaza, San Ysidro, 619.934.8400. Map F3

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otaY ranch town center Shops at this South County mall include Apple and Sephora; there’s also outdoor fire pits, a dog park and a movie theater. 2015 Birch Road, Suite 500, Chula Vista, 619.656.9100. Map F3

Come visit us in the Gaslamp Quarter and try one of our heavenly flavors.

seaport village Picturesque and charming outdoor plaza on the waterfront features 54 one-of-a-kind shops and galleries. 849 W. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.235.4014. Map R15 westfield horton plaZa Multi-level outdoor mall featuring almost 200 shops, two restaurants and a food court. Anchored by Macy’s and Nordstrom. 324 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.239.8180. Map Q16 westfield utc Outdoor mall has more than 180 shops, five restaurants and a food court. Located near UCSD, the mall is anchored by Macy’s, Sears and Nordstrom. 4545 La Jolla Village Drive, Golden Triangle, 858.546.8858. Map T21

Nightlife 207/float Rock ‘n’ roll glamour at the Hard Rock Hotel; two nightspots offer different vibes, from the street-level 207 lounge to the rooftop Float, featuring bottle service in poolside cabanas.

Hard Rock Hotel, 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.3000. Map Q16

Sun–Thurs 10am - 10pm* Fri & Sat 10am - MIDNIGHT*

San Diego, CA 92101

*Closing time subject to change, if we sell out early

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4th & b Local favorite for live music, located downtown adjacent to the Gaslamp Quarter. Call for shows. 345 B St., downtown, 619.231.4343. Map Q16

anthologY Chic three-story venue with amazing acoustics has live jazz, Latin, blues and rock. 1337 India St., Little Italy, 619.595.0300. Map Q15

oll Rock ‘n R

Dueling

•

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Pianos

basic Urban bar in a cool, renovated warehouse near the ballpark serves brick-oven pizzas. 410 10th Ave., East Village, 619.531.8869. Map Q17 bootlegger This spacious, light-filled spot features vintage Prohibition-inspired design accents plus pub grub, flat-screen TVs and more. 804 Market St., East Village, 619.794.BOOT. Map Q17 the casbah Small but legendary rock club has hosted superstars like Nirvana, Smashing Pumpkins on their way up. Live music nightly. 2501 Kettner Blvd., Midtown, 619.232.4355. Map P15 double deuce Country-rock bar features mechanical bull, DJs and dancing downstairs, stripper pole and interactive games in upstairs cocktail bar. 528 F St., Gaslamp, 619.450.6522. Map Q16 east village tavern & bowl Sports bar and bowling alley near Petco Park also has darts and pool. 950 Market St., East Village, 619.677.BOWL. Map R17 fluXX Ambiance-changing dance club from the design team behind Sidebar and Stingaree. 500 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.8100. Map Q16 henrY’s pub Nightclub and restaurant serves California cuisine and showcases live entertainment nightly. 618 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.238.2389.

Map Q16

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OPEN 7 NIGHTS A WEEK 655 4th Ave, Gaslamp Quarter

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Nightlife House of blues Live rock, blues and pop music, plus Sunday gospel brunch. Call for current shows. 1055 Fifth Ave., downtown, 619.299.2583. Map Q16 THE IVY Vegas-worthy club in the Andaz Hotel has sexy décor and rooftop bar with downtown views.

600 F St., Gaslamp 619.814.2055. Map I8 ON BROADWAY Housed in an old bank, this megaclub still packs in a huge weekend crowd. Where else will you find a dance floor in a bank vault? 615 Broadway, Gaslamp, 619.231.0011. Map Q16 ONYX DJs, jazz and cocktails in bi-level Gaslamp nightpot. 852 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.235.6699. Map Q16 The Shout! house Dueling pianos played by impossible-to-stump musicians. Music ranges from classic rock to contemporary hits. 655 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.231.6700. Map Q16 SIDEBAR DJs, dancing and bottle service at this sexy, modern downtown lounge. 536 Market St., Gaslamp, 619.696.0946. Map Q16 STINGAREE Tri-level dance club and restaurant with rooftop cabanas. Ultra hip nightspot with several house specialty drinks. Dress code enforced. 454 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.544.9500. Map Q16 the tipsy crow A neighborhood bar with three levels including pool tables, shuffleboard and trivia.

770 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.338.9300. Map Q16 Top of the Hyatt Panoramic vistas from the West Coast’s tallest waterfront building. Take in the sunset or enjoy the lights of downtown. 1 Market Place, downtown, 619.232.1234. Map Q15 Vin de syrah Alice in Wonderland-themed subterranean nightspot has eye-popping design, live music, wine and full bar. 901 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.4166. Map Q16 Voyeur Punk-inspired Gaslamp bar features DJs, fashion events and on-site boutique. 755 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.756.7678. Map Q16

La Jolla

BARFLY Sports bar by day, DJ/dance club by night in the heart of the village. 909 Prospect St., 858.454.2323. Map W19 Cafe Japengo Beautiful people to go along with the artistic sushi and Asian fusion fare. 8960 University Center Lane, UTC, 858.450.3355.

Map T21 Whaling Bar Classic old-school haunt at La Valencia Hotel has an Old World seaside feeling and has played host to a who’s who of La Jolla society.

1132 Prospect St., 858.454.0771. Map W19

North County

Belly up North County’s premier live music venue.

Voted best live music venue and lauded by Rolling Stone magazine. 143 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.481.8140. Map X22

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Coyote BAR & GRILL Hot live music and cool fire pits. Indoor/outdoor spot offers casual ambience and a view. 300 Carlsbad Village Drive, ­Carlsbad, 760.729.4695. Map T22 EN FUEGO Lively singles vibe and tasty Mexican food served up on this restaurant’s bustling patio.

1342 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.6551.

Map X22 JiMmy O’s A favorite of sports fans and locals.

Choose between the sports bar and the nightclub.

225 W. 15th St., Del Mar, 858.350.3735. Map X22

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Tours +Transport Beaches

710 beach club Steps from the beach, this live music venue has everything from rock to hip-hop. 710 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, 858.483.7844. Map H8 bar west This 5,000-foot upscale bar and lounge merges downtown chic with the casual attitude of the beach. 959 Hornblend St., Pacific Beach, 858.273.9378. Map H8

VIP STUDIO TOUR GO BEHIND THE SCENES!

huMphreY’s backstage lounge Live jazz and blues along with dancing. A longtime favorite located right on the water. 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577. Map K8 jrdn “Jordan,” Tower 23’s hip bar, overlooks the ocean and has a variety of signature cocktails and a full raw bar. 4551 Ocean Blvd., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736. Map K8 south beach bar & grill Just steps away from the ocean, this bar offers light fare and drinks. 5059 Newport Ave., Ocean Beach, 619.226.4577. Map J8 turQuoise cafe bar europa This Euro-style wine bar has tapas, cask wines and live music nightly. 873 Turquoise St., Pacific Beach, 858.488.4200. Map H8

Tours + Transport adventure r.i.b. rides Intimate dolphin, whalewatching and sightseeing excursions onboard a Navy SEAL Rigid Inflatable Boat (R.I.B.) with U.S. Coast Guard Captain Ken Manzoni. 619.808.2822. balboa park Free tours about history, architecture, horticulture and botanical gardens. Call for schedule.

Visitors Center, House of Hospitality, 1549 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.0512. Map P17

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biplane, air coMbat & warbird adventures Among the airborne tours offered are gentle or thrilling coastal biplane rides for two, you-fly-it air combat, loops and rolls in a WWII warbird. Montgomery Field, 760.930.0903. Map U23 citYpass Discount combo packages for the San Diego Zoo, Safari Park, SeaWorld, Universal Studios Hollywood, Disneyland and Disney’s California Adventure. $276 (kids $229). 888.330.5008, citypass.com. coronado historical association tours History and architecture walking tours including the Hotel del Coronado. Reservations required. 1100 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.8788. Map L11 coronado touring Walking tour around the historic Hotel del Coronado and neighborhood. Tu, Th and Sa at 11 am. $12; children 3 and under free. Meet at Glorietta Bay Inn, 1630 Glorietta Blvd., Coronado, 619.435.5993. Map L11 corporate helicopters Great views of La Jolla and downtown from the comfort of a private helicopter.

Montgomery Field, 800.345.6737. Map H11 destination teMecula Door-to-door excursions to Temecula Wine Country, including wine tastings, complimentary wine glass, lunch and free time in Old Town Temecula. 28475 Old Town Front St., Temecula, 800.584.8162. Map A2 eXecucar Premier luxury sedan service. Sedan and SUV service, flat rates, group services and frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 123 Camino de la Reina #200, Mission Valley, 800.410.4444. Map M16 flagship cruises and events Daily narrated tours of San Diego Bay plus brunch and dinner cruises, water taxi and more. 1050 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 800.442.7847. Map Q14

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Tours +Transport gaslaMp Quarter historical foundation Two-hour walking tour of the Gaslamp, Sa 11 am. $10.

410 Island Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4692. Map R1 gaslaMp segwaY Guided segway tours of historic neighborhoods including La Jolla and Coronado.

Reservations required. 300 G St., Gaslamp, 619.239.2111.

Map R16 hornblower cruises Daily narrated tours of San Diego Bay, plus dinner cruises, yacht charters, whale watching, weddings and events. 1066 N. Harbor Drive, Broadway Pier, Embarcadero, 619.686.8700. Map Q4 la jolla kaYak Cave and snorkel tours, bike and kayak rentals, whale-watching excursions and more. 2199 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla Shores, 858.459.1114. Map V20 Magical adventures Offering hot air balloon flights over Del Mar & Wine Country. 866.ENJOY.US. old town trolleY tours of san diego Narrated sightseeing tour explores San Diego and Coronado via trolley or “SEAL” (sea and land vehicle).

On-and-off boarding privileges. Call for nearest pickup point and reservations. 619.298.8687.

Applies to Economy through SUV size vehicles reserved in advance for rentals up to 30 days at participating Southern California locations. Participating locations are available by calling 1 800 rent-a-car. Sorry, this offer is not valid at airport locations. Rates are as posted at time of reservation at enterprise.com or by calling 1 800 rent-a-car. Weekly rates may apply depending on length of rental or for longer rental needs. Rental must end by December 31, 2012. Offer may not be used with other coupons, offers or discounted rates. Vehicles are subject to availability. Standard rental qualifications apply. Offer does not apply to taxes, surcharges, recovery fees, and optional products and services including damage waiver at $14.99 or less per day. Check your auto insurance policy and/or credit card agreement for rental vehicle coverage. Other restrictions, including holiday and blackout dates, may apply. Pick-up and drop-off service is subject to geographic and other restrictions. Void where prohibited. ©2011 Enterprise Rent-A-Car. C02178 01/11 MM

sail san diego Enjoy San Diego Bay on afternoon and sunset sails. Snacks, drinks included. Customized accommodations available. 2051 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.297.7426. Map K9 san diego beer and wine tours Guided winery and brewery tours, plus food-pairing walking tours.

858.551.5115. san diego chinese historical societY Walking tour of the Asian Pacific Historic District. Second Tu-Sa 10 am, Sun noon. Reservations required. $2; children free. Chinese Historical Museum, 404 Third Ave., downtown, 619.338.9888. Map R16 san diego scenic tours Daily half-day and fullday tours of attractions in San Diego and Mexico, including the Agua Caliente Racetrack in Tijuana. 858.273.8687. seal tour This unique amphibious tour explores San Diego Bay and its environs. Departs Th-M from Seaport Village. 619.298.8687. Map Q15 so diego tours Culinary, nightlife and bike/walk sightseeing tours geared toward active visitors. 345 Sixth Ave., East Village, 619.233.8687. Map Q17 sup coronado Group and private lessons in the new sport of stand-up paddleboarding, plus ocean and bay tours. Various Coronado locations, 619.888.7686. super shuttle Runs to and from the airport 24 hours a day. All major cards. Individuals, groups and charters welcome. Earn frequent-flier points and miles with select airlines. 800.BLUE.VAN. skYY liMousine Upscale limousine and sedan service for the savvy traveler. Call for reservations. 1310 K St., Gaslamp, 619.239.SKYY. Map R17 urban safaris Weekend walkabouts of San Diego neighborhoods (or by appointment). 619.944.9255. where You want to be tours Scavenger hunt explores downtown S.D. Walk and bike tours also available. 619.917.6037.

Xplore offshore Personalized ocean-rafting on a Navy SEAL-style boat: high-speed sightseeing, snorkeling and evening cocktails on the waterfront. 858.456.1636.

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30 things we love San Diego

1

The cocktails at the Gaslamp Quarter’s new Katsuya. p. 56 Picking up hand-crafted soaps at Pine Tree Road in Ocean Beach. p. 29 The fact that a local theater company decided to turn Joe vs. the Volcano into a musical. p. 64 Taking in a rock show at the Belly Up Tavern in Solana Beach. p. 73 Golfing the same greens as Jack Nicklaus and Phil Mickelson at La Costa Resort. p. 44 Summer fashion’s bold color palette. p. 10 Catching world-class theater under the clear summer sky at the Old Globe’s Summer Shakespeare Festival. p. 8 Sampling hard-to-find beers from all over the world at Bottlecraft (2161 India St., Little Italy, 619.487.9493).

where in the world

6

10

14

9

13

19

Playing hooky from work to cheer on the San Diego Padres at Petco Park—now equipped with Wi-Fi. p. 67

Zombie walks, Wonder Woman sightings and the whole wonderfully freaky parade that is Comic-Con. p. 61

Getting to see 100-yearold artifacts recovered from the wreck of the Titanic at the Natural History Museum. p. 71

Getting to know the residents of the Lions, Tigers & Bears animal sanctuary in Alpine. p. 12

Betting the ponies on a Friday afternoon at the Del Mar Racetrack, then sticking around afterwards for the post-race concert. p. 5

Wandering through the cactus wonderland that is Balboa Park’s Desert Garden. p. 38

Catching a flick in a spacious leather recliner at Cinepolis luxury cinemas in Del Mar. p. 61 Small Bar’s barrel-aged Hemingway cocktail—gin, sweet vermouth and lillet aged for sixweeks in American oak (4628 Park Blvd., University Heights, 619. 795.7998).

People watching in Encinitas through the big roll-up doors at Union Kitchen & Tap. p. 7 Browsing the stacks at Warwick’s, the oldest family-run bookstore in the U.S. (7812 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.0347).

Espressos and after-dinner gelato in Little Italy. p. 24

WHERE is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Alaska, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Chowing down on a banh mi, arguably the best by-product of French imperialism. p. 7

La Jolla’s newest and most pocket-sized gallery, Thumbprint. p. 27

Boiled peanuts, ramen and a new upstairs whisky bar at Underbelly in Little Italy. p. 56

Doing a self-guided tapas crawl on 30th Street, North Park’s restaurant row, during 30th on 30th, held on the 30th of each month. p. 30

Funnel cakes, carnival rides and a craft beer festival at the San Diego County Fair. p. 61

Being immersed in sound at MCASD’s Ten Thousand Waves. p. 8

Being home to one of the top-five biggest Pride Festivals in the country. p. 61

San Diego Symphony’s Summer Pops program. p. 67 Fourth of July on the bay. p. 61

Orange & Park’s modern San Diego map prints, sold at Root 75 (845 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.6060).

The Mission Beach Boardwalk—the embodiment of all that is summer in San Diego. p. 28

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington, D.C. ASIA Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

80 WHERESD.COM SUMMER 2012

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BBQ PIGPIG ROAsT BBQ ROAsT served crackling with scarlet served crackling with scarlet turnips, redred orac spinach and a a turnips, orac spinach and fresh buckwheat popover fresh buckwheat popover

©2012 KITCHEN 1540 AT L’AUBERGE

©2012 KITCHEN 1540 AT L’AUBERGE

PM PM 2:534:53

Let Let the the adventure adventure begin. begin.

CHEf NOTEs CHEf NOTEs

Described byby our new Executive Chef scott Thomas Dolbee asas Described our new Executive Chef scott Thomas Dolbee “playful, whimsical and modern,” the new dinner menu marks the “playful, whimsical and modern,” the new dinner menu marks the next chapter in the evolution of KITCHEN 1540. next chapter in the evolution of KITCHEN 1540.

Call forfor reservations 858.793.6460.

Call reservations 858.793.6460.

L’AUBERGE DEL MAR CAMINO DEL MAR L’AUBERGE DEL MAR 1540 1540 CAMINO DEL MAR KITCHEN1540.COM KITCHEN1540.COM

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