WHERE San Diego Magazine Winter 2012 by California Media Group

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WINTER 2012 WHERESD.COM

San Diego

CLASSICAL LOVERS’ GUIDE SAVVIER SOUVENIRS

NEW UP NORTH

PGA TOUR’S FARMERS INSURANCE OPEN

NORTH COUNTY RESTAURANTS TO TRY TONIGHT

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JOB NO: LAB-3529 KITCHEN 1540 JOB NO: LAB-3529 KITCHEN 1540 PUBLICATION: Where Magazine COLOR INFO: Color PUBLICATION: Where Magazine COLOR INFO: Color TRIM: 8.125” x 10.875” LIVE: 7” x10” BLEED: 8.375” x 11.125” TRIM: 8.125” x 10.875” LIVE: 7” x10” BLEED: 8.375” x 11.125”

DISCOVER THE MAGIC! Thebest bestbrands, brands,the thebiggest biggestselection, selection, The forvisitors. visitors. plus1O% 1O%off off* *for plus Macy’sinvites invitesyou youtotoexperience experiencewhy whywe weare are“The “TheWorld’s World’sMost MostFamous FamousStore”. Store”.With Withtop topdesigner designer Macy’s names – and legendary special events – Macy’s is a must-see destination! And, when you’re here, names – and legendary special events – Macy’s is a must-see destination! And, when you’re here, * *, suretotostop stopbybythe theVisitor VisitorCenter Centerononthe the3rd 3rdLevel Leveltotopick pickupupyour yourMacy’s Macy’sVisitor VisitorSavings SavingsPass Pass , bebesure * * goodfor for10% 10%offoffthousands thousandsofofitems itemsthroughout throughoutthe thestore! store! good Formore moreinformation informationorortotoobtain obtaina aMacy’s Macy’s10% 10%Visitor VisitorSavings SavingsPass, Pass,call callususatat1-877-797-7227, 1-877-797-7227, For emailususatatvisitor@macys.com visitor@macys.comororvisit visitwww.VisitMacysUSA.com www.VisitMacysUSA.com email Macy’sHorton HortonPlaza Plaza160 160Horton HortonPlaza PlazaSan SanDiego, Diego,CA CA92101 92101619-645-3284 619-645-3284 Macy’s * Restrictions apply. Valid I.D. required. Details store. Restrictions apply. Valid I.D. required. Details in in store.

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where San Diego Winter 2012 the guide 34 DINING Restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

49 ENTERTAINMENT Festivals, performing arts and sports

53 ATTRACTIONS + MUSEUMS Landmarks, theme parks and exhibitions

56 SHOPPING The best retail destinations

57 NIGHTLIFE Hot clubs, lounges and cocktail bars

58 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around

60 MAPS Navigate the county

city tours

Flavor Del Mar

where now 4 Dining + Drinks The chef/mixologist team at Saltbox is doing something new in the Gaslamp. Crazy or creative? You decide. Plus: Stacked takes mall food to a whole different dimension, and Green Flash Brewing Co. goes big with a new 45,000-square-foot brewery and tasting room. 6 Shopping Do better than keychains and shot glasses with these worthy souvenirs. Also: Product Porch takes over MCASD’s gift shop in a limited engagement.

8 Where to Find It Zoology-inspired fashions are one of the season’s hottest trends.

features 12 Northern Lights San Diego’s sleepy North County is suddenly a hotbed of culinary activity. We review three trendy spots you might want to try tonight. BY NEAL ALEXANDER AND NINA GARIN

18 20 22 24 26 28

Downtown la Jolla beach Cities uptown North Coast balboa park

ALSO INSIDE 3 HOT DATES 32 GOLF GUIDE 64 30 THINGS WE LOVE

ON THE COVER With an emphasis on seafood served up with a side of spectacular ocean views, Flavor Del Mar is one of a handful of exciting new eateries recently opened in North County. Flip to p. 12 to find out more.

16 Classically Inclined Winter in S.D. is a classical music lover’s dream, from epic new operas to our century-old symphony. BY VALERIE SCHER

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Wyland Galleries | 855 W. Harbor Drive, #52 | San Diego, CA 92101 Gallery Hours: Open Daily, 10 AM – 9 PM | 800-WYLAND-5

EMAIL Advertising Nicole.Bordges@WhereSD.com Business JLevy@WhereSD.com Editorial Maya.Kroth@WhereSD.com Art Art@WhereSD.com Production Ads@WhereSD.com Website Christina.Xenos@WhereSD.com Circulation Jordan.Fraser@WhereSD.com Plan ahead for your next visit to San Diego— subscribe to where: Single copy $4, 4 issues $16. Contact: Jordan Fraser, phone: 619.260.5599, E-mail: Jordan.Fraser@WhereSD.com © 2011 Southern California Media Group. All Rights reserved Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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Hot Dates Winter 2012

WHAT’S SIZZLING IN SECONDS FLAT

DEC. 2-3 DECEMBER NIGHTS Usher in the holiday season with Balboa Park’s biggest event, featuring parkwide entertainment, ethnic foods, arts and crafts and free entry to museums. p. 49 DEC. 3-21 THE NUTCRACKER There’s no shortage of Sugar Plum Fairies around town: among them, San Diego Ballet’s Nutcracker Dec. 3-4 and 17-18, and City Ballet’s staging of the classic ballet Dec. 9-21. p. 51-52 DECEMBER FOOTBALL Hut, hut, hike! Catch college ball during the Poinsettia Bowl (Dec. 21) and Holiday Bowl (Dec. 28) while the NFL’s San Diego Chargers play home games Dec. 11 and 18. p. 52-53 THROUGH DEC. 31 JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR A new production of Andrew Lloyd Webber’s rock musical is on stage at the La Jolla Playhouse before heading for Broadway. p. 50 JAN. 7 JERRY SEINFELD You can take the comic out of New York, but you can’t take New York out of the comic. Seinfeld performs two sets at downtown’s Civic Theatre. p. 49

Colombian golfer Camilo Villegas lines up a shot at Torrey Pines

JAN. 15-20 RESTAURANT WEEK Hundreds of eateries participate in this citywide promotion, offering special three-course menus for just $20, $30 or $40 per person. p. 49

JAN. 23-29

JAN. 21-22 MICHAEL JACKSON: THE IMMORTAL WORLD TOUR Cirque du Soleil sets its latest show to the music of the King of Pop. p. 49

These days, the best reason to watch the Farmers Insurance Open is its unpredictability. Formerly known as the Buick Invitational, the PGA Tour event held each January at the oceanview Torrey Pines Golf Course in La Jolla has, until recently, been dominated by Tiger Woods, but lately the field has been wide open, resulting in some dramatic finishes. Bubba Watson squeaked past local favorite Phil Mickelson to clinch last year’s win, as both players’ final putts elicited gasps and cheers from the gallery. The few hundred thousand spectators lucky enough to snag tickets to this year’s event will have a chance to watch the world’s best professional golfers compete for a $6 million purse during the week-long festivities, which kick off with an admission-free practice round on Monday, Jan. 23. The official tourney runs Thursday through Sunday. p. 53

JAN. 28 BALLET FOLKLÓRICO DE COLOMBIA San Diego Symphony’s Winter Pops presents this sizzling showcase of the rhythm, costumes and dance of Colombia. p. 52

Fairway thrills

TEE TIME Amateur or professional, San Diego is a golfer’s wonderland, boasting dozens of celebritydesigned courses for varying skill levels. See our golf guide on p. 32 for descriptions of some of the top local courses and information on scheduling tee times.

FEB. 9-19 SAN DIEGO JEWISH FILM FESTIVAL Now in its 22nd year, this esteemed festival screens 40 shorts, documentaries and features exploring the Jewish experience. p. 49 FEB. 10-12 NATIONS OF SAN DIEGO INTERNATIONAL DANCE FESTIVAL See dancers from more than 15 countries perform anything from clogging to tango. p. 49 FEB. 18, 21, 24, 26 MOBY-DICK Featuring Canadian tenor Ben Heppner singing the role of Captain Ahab, Jake Heggie’s critically acclaimed, multimedia-enhanced opera is a highlight of San Diego Opera’s 47th season. p. 52 FEB. 18 ITZHAK PERLMAN San Diego Symphony brings in the world renowned violinist for a recital with pianist Rohan De Silva. p. 52

Laissez les bons temps rouler! On Feb. 21, Mardi Gras in the Gaslamp celebrates Fat Tuesday in high style, with parades, music and, of course, beads. p. 49

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where now San Diego

The best in entertainment, shopping and dining.

» DINING + DRINKS Snack in the Box Named after the style of wood-frame house that occupied San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter 150 years ago, Saltbox is downtown’s latest go-to spot for expertly crafted classic cocktails and tasty New American tapas. Behind the bar, NYC mixologist Erin Williams revives century-old recipes like the Ward 8—here made with bourbon and pomegranate molasses and renamed the “Mental Ward”—and makes fresh magic with drinks like Off the Beet’n Path, with saffron-infused gin, beet brine, elderﬂower syrup and hibiscus salt. In the kitchen, Chef Simon Dolinky prepares shareable plates ranging from lobster corn dogs and beef cheek tacos to the unusual Bacon Cappuccino: two coffee-braised pork belly meatballs in an unctuous broth, garnished with bacon biscotti. This is elevated, stick-toyour-ribs food, perfect for winter. 1047 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.515.3003

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Chips “stacked” with blue cheese dipping sauce

FASHIONABLE FEED Mall food enters a new echelon with the addition of Stacked at Fashion Valley. The gimmick here is twofold: patrons can customize (er, “stack”) their own burgers, pizzas, salads, sausages and desserts using a wide array of gourmet ingredients, and all ordering is done through the iPad that’s docked at each table. Whether you’re an Angus-beef-and-cheddar kinda person or prefer a veggie patty with smoked Gouda and a fried egg on a gluten-free bun, the iPad won’t judge. It’s a dream come true for people with dietary allergies and anyone who’s ever cringed at the sight of the words “no substitutions” on a menu. Dress up some fries with butternut squash aioli, try Brie on your pizza or add roasted poblanos and spicy Sriracha mayo to your burger. The beer selection is a decent mix of big-brand domestics and craft brews, while the wine list includes Mondavi and Ravenswood. When was the last time you saw that at the mall? 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.225.7900

News Flash Named after the elusive post-sunset visual effect, 10-year-old Green Flash Brewing Company has just opened a new 45,000-square-foot brewery where it will eventually brew, bottle and serve more than 100,000 barrels per year of its award-winning craft ale. The property comes complete with a beer garden and 30-tap tasting room from which the brewing operation can be seen (and smelled). Known for its seasonal and limited-edition releases—like February’s aptly named Palate Wrecker—Green

Flash also regularly brews nine other styles ranging from the fruity, Belgianstyle Trippel (awarded a silver medal at the 2007 Great American Beer Festival) to the spicy, unfiltered farmhouse-style Saison Diego, as well as barrel-aged beers. While the brewery runs 24 hours a day, five days a week, the tasting room is only open to the public WednesdaySunday. Call ahead for exact hours and to ask about brewery tours. 6550 Mira Mesa Blvd., Mira Mesa, 858.622.0085, greenflashbrew.com

Green Flash Brewing Co.

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WHERE NOW San

Diego

» SHOPPING

Souvenirs for the Savvy Sure, you can always pick up an “I ❤ San Diego” shotglass at the airport for the people back home, why not take souvenir shopping up a notch? These simple, modern map prints from Coronado-based design studio Orange & Park are both an elegant way to remember time spent on San Diego’s killer beaches and a smart décor choice. Available at Root 75 in Coronado (see p. 23), Orange & Park also makes stationery inspired by local icons—lifeguard towers, cresting waves, the Coronado Bridge—as well as typographically creative maps of North and South America, Africa and other spots. Because your niece doesn’t really need another commemorative keychain, does she? orangeandpark.com

EXIT THROUGH THE GIFT SHOP A new kind of museum store has set up shop in downtown S.D. A limitedengagement pop-up experiment at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego, Product Porch is a collaboration between the museum and La Jolla natives turned international tastemakers Brooks Hudson Thomas (of L.A.’s Specific Merchandise) and Blaire Dessent (of Paris’s Vitrine). In lieu of exhibition catalogs and notebooks, this shop’s Dwell-worthy inventory showcases some of the most talented young

artists and designers working today. You’ll find pink crocheted bookshelves from Adrian Clutario, birch plywood stack lamps from industrial designer Dino Sanchez and one-of-akind side tables handcrafted in Brooklyn from reclaimed American hardwood, among other covetable items. Product Porch is open during standard museum hours (11 am-5 pm daily except Wednesdays) and runs in conjunction with

MCASD’s critically hailed Phenomenal exhibition of Light & Space artists, through Jan. 22. 1001 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 858.454.3541 Tanya Aguinga rope-knot bracelets

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at Las americas Premium OutLets Located in Paseo de La Moda suite 412

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Where to find it Our city’s most famous attraction—the world-famous San Diego Zoo in Balboa Park—is inspiring more than childrens’ awe this season. Fashion designers are looking to the animal world more than ever before, incorporating feathers, leopard print, leather, fur, snakeskin and more into clothing, shoes, handbags, jewelry and other accessories for grown-ups. Here, we’ve rounded up a few of our favorite recent finds to help keep you on-trend this winter.

MARINA B Shaped like a pair of martins-pêcheurs, or kingfisher birds, these yellow-gold earrings boast fancy-cut diamonds, blue and yellow sapphires and black onyx (price upon request). Available at: Neiman Marcus, Fashion Valley Mall, 7027 Friars Road, 619.692.9100

H&M With a subtly animalistic print, this black jacket from H&M’s sustainably minded Conscious Collection is made of 100% recycled wool ($40). Available at: The Forum, 1905 Calle Barcelona #120, Carlsbad, 760.943.0610

GUCCI Perched atop a one-inch covered platform, these in-demand black Alyona ankle boots are trimmed in Canadian alpaca fur ($1,590). Available at: Neiman Marcus, Fashion Valley Mall, 7027 Friars Road, 619.692.9100

PHILIP STEIN The latest watches from Philip Stein feature metallic snake, lizard, ostrich, shark and other animal-skin straps (left, $520, and right, $1,870). Available at: Nordstrom, 103 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.239.1700

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Where to find it

GUCCI This leather-lined ostrich Smilla tote features removable raccoon fur tails, antiqued gold hardware and inside zip pockets for your cell phone and PDA ($5,200). Available at: Neiman Marcus, Fashion Valley Mall, 7027 Friars Road, 619.692.9100

LEOTA This figure-flattering wrap dress in leopard print comes with matching black belt ($145). Available at: GOGA by Gordana, 401 Market St., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.564.7660

ALkEMIE These funky feather earrings are made by an L.A.based jewelry designer who specializes in using recycled metals ($150). Available at: Pigment, 3827 30th St., North Park, 619.501.6318

SAMA EYEWEAR With just a splash of leopard at the temple, these Mix 3 frames, shown in gold, are tame enough for any setting ($450). Available at: Optical Shop of Aspen, 1025 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.4040

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northern

lights

earsucker, the hippest of the hip downtown restaurants, has barely been open a year, but already it’s inspired Burlap, a sister location in Del Mar. created by celebri-chef Brian Malarkey, who was once a contestant on Bravo’s Top Chef tV show, Burlap bills itself as an “asian cowboy” restaurant where the “West eats Meat.” it’s a nod to Malarkey’s own roots, growing up on a ranch in Oregon. But aside from the cute turn of words, what exactly does it mean to have an asian cowboy dining experience? it means lots of fish, offered up raw or cooked with sesame and ginger. You’ll also find big rotisserie meat dishes like chicken, duck and lamb, as well as a selection of steaks that can be augmented with a raw egg or wasabi crème fraiche or even foie gras if you want it. Like searsucker, the menu at Burlap is divided into bold, one-word sections. “raw” is where you can order small servings of beef tartar, venison carpaccio and various oyster

All of a sudden, sleepy north County has become san Diego’s hottest dining destination. here are three to try. By NEAL ALEX ANDER AND NINA GARIN

dishes, including one prepared with caviar and quail egg dubbed “natural Viagra.” “Green” obviously means salads. “Bowl” is one of two miso soups, truffled or chowdered. and “Ours” is a selection of house specialties like Malarkey’s beloved sweet potato fries, a decadent sesame-crusted brie with mango jam and bone marrow to please all the foodies. everything is prepared beautifully, every sauce for the filets meticulously arranged on the plate. even a simple Brussels sprouts and sausage dish has a crispiness and tanginess that’s rare to the underappreciated vegetable. still, the concept feels like it’s trying too hard to be clever, and that makes the ordering experience daunting. Be sure to settle in with a cocktail like the shanghai Mule before tackling the menu, where most main courses are priced in the $30 range. the mule, made with a splash of sake, could be one of the best in town. it helps that the 8,000-square-foot restaurant, located in the posh Del Mar highlands shopping center, is beautiful to be in. You don’t feel as rushed to choose between “chicken balls” and octopus on a stick when there are calming koi ponds throughout the heated patio. thanks to the tasteful design by thomas schoos, the man also responsible for searsucker’s signature look, Burlap is a colorful, comfortable North county showpiece. Giant lucky lion heads hang above the bar, leaving a festive first impression. there are also Moroccan lanterns on the patio, a collection of big communal tables that invite conversation and touches of burlap on the walls of the main dining room. there are little surprises at every turn: a fire pit with cozy seating, a giant window that lets you peek into the kitchen upon arriving, pebbles in the bathroom sink. it’s easy to see why Malarkey’s place is jam-packed with fine-dining-starved carmel Valley couples and coast-dwell-

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Burlap (pictured) boasts bold dĂŠcor and bolder flavors, like this hamachi tuna (opposite).

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ing young professionals. It’s only been open since late July, but Burlap is already quite the Searsucker rival. —N.G. Burlap, 12995 El Camino Real, Suite 101, Del Mar, 858.369.5700

estaurant though it may be, Flavor in Del Mar Plaza looks like a Hollywood set. And it’s ready for its close-up, too. Boasting a spectacular ocean view, the upscale restaurant is done in grey and white punctuated with color. The front door opens into a splashy lounge outfitted with a sweeping Carrera marble bar and white tile that climbs walls and pillars. Just behind the bar is a glass wall glowing an icy blue, then a bright orange, then an emerald green. The floor is covered in a light wood, and tables and cushy chairs are scattered throughout. Diners—as opposed to cocktailers—mosey up a wide walkway along one side of the room and enter the main dining area. Technically it’s an outdoor patio. Functionally though, the area is enclosed with canvas and clear plastic to give it an inside/outside mood. Tables, chairs, booths, planters and even a fireplace play up the notion of an upscale indoor/outdoor room. Though barely a year old, Flavor has had its share of domestic drama. After a pomp-filled opening, the place recently replaced its founding chef with Brian Redzikowski, who, at only 31, has already cooked at such high-end foodie temples as Alain Ducasse, Le Cirque and Joël Robuchon. Since arriving at Flavor, he’s redone the original menu and

says he’s continuing to work on simplifying dishes in a New American style. A tuna tart appetizer appears as thin slices of raw tuna layered over wisps of red onion. It’s served on a crackercrisp slice of fried potato. This is an unusual and quite delicious preparation, one that’s extremely mild and mixes textures that are both satiny-soft and crunchy. One of the more surprising preparations is a thin slice of sautéed foie gras topped by a small round donut that’s been laced with honey. While fresh fruit sits on the side of the plate, the combination of the meltingly rich foie gras and the slightly sweetened, brioche-like donut is positively regal. (Keep in mind that beginning in July 2012, the sale of foie gras in California becomes illegal. So if you favor the foie, now’s the time to indulge.) Huge diver scallops are served in a generous portion with crisp brown edges and buttery interiors. Accompanying them on the plate are sautéed wild mushrooms, cauliflower and a sauce perfumed with Meyer lemon. Two red meat items are included on the menu: a Prime strip steak served with a wine jus, and a Prime flat-iron steak that’s sliced and wears a high mound of arugula salad. Shallot jam is on the side. Also available are salads and risotto, chicken, pork and other seafood items. An attempt to increase the straightforwardness of dishes at Flavor is clearly present, and it’s probably most evident in the presentation. While dishes are visually pleasant, there’s a candor about them that sometimes verges on the industrial. Still, the room has enough

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“Upstairs at Solace is where ‘The Dude’s Raw Bar’ is located—and by The Dude, they do indeed mean the character from The Big Lebowski.”

The view from Flavor’s indoor/outdoor patio; (below) meatloaf at Solace & the Moonlight Lounge.

glamour to compensate for plating simplicity. —N.A. Flavor, 1555 Camino Del Mar, Third Floor, Del Mar, 858.755.3663

hanks To a Menu that boasts sophisticated comfort food and an extensive wine list, north Park’s urban solace has long embodied the spirit of a true neighborhood restaurant. on a given day, its tables are jammed with a varied clientele: stylish couples on dates, families celebrating birthdays, co-workers on a lunch break. now executive Chef Matt Gordon brings that welcoming spirit to encinitas with his latest venture, Solace & the Moonlight Lounge. Located in downtown encinitas’ Pacific station, the spacious restaurant easily blends in with the area’s casual yet artistic surroundings. It’s modern but not flashy, and offers quality dining without scaring away the taco-shop types. solace has a similar menu to the north Park original, with favorites including Gordon’s trademark cheddar-and-chive biscuits with orange-honey butter and smoky tomato jam; tender Brandt Farms beef cheek; and a grilled four-cheese tomato and basil sandwich with creamy tomato-fennel soup and fries. But the new location has plenty to make it stand out on its own, too. Thanks to the unique layout along the train tracks, the building is divided into two dining areas, one upstairs and another downstairs. The ground floor is the more formal area, with minimalist wooden furniture, ocean-themed art and oversized windows

that look out onto the street. It’s where you’d sit to have long, meaningful talks, or where you’d bring your mom and dad. Just don’t get startled by the sound of trains whirring by—it can be distracting and scary if you’re not expecting it. upstairs—also known as the Moonlight Lounge—is where you’ll find more of a scene, where people congregate at the bar or find a spot at the large, communal table in the middle of the room. Balcony seating is available, too. It’s also where “The Dude’s Raw Bar” is located, and by The Dude, they do indeed mean the character from The Big Lebowski. a giant picture of Jeff Bridges smiles down as you order items like oysters on a half shell or seared albacore. There’s also a truly unique yellowtail pepita ceviche with diced chilies, an herb purée and cornmeal crackers—it’s like nothing you’d find in Mexico but manages to retain the flavor and quality of an authentic ceviche dish. The bar is well-stocked with quality wines and craft beers. But because their flavored syrups are made inhouse (no high-fructose corn syrup on the entire menu), it’s a good excuse to indulge in a cocktail. Try the Cherry Cola, made with black-cherry-infused whiskey and canesugar soda, that’s not too sweet and not too tart. and while you’re upstairs, where a soundtrack of indierock hits plays overhead, make sure to get a peek at the garden. It’s where they grow the herbs and vegetables you’ll find on your plate. —N.G. solace & the Moonlight Lounge, 25 east e st., encinitas, 760.753.2433

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ClassiCally

inclined

Opera, symphOny cOncerts, chamber music and mOre all flOurish during the winter mOnths in san diegO. where tO start? here are five ear-Opening OrganizatiOns that are wOrth discOvering. BY vALERIE SCHER ARTPOWER! Why it’s notable: As UC San Diego’s arts series, ArtPower! has enough imaginative punch to justify the exclamation point in its name. Offerings on the La Jolla campus range from classical to experimental music plus dance, film and other intriguing events. Try one and you’ll feel hip instantly. Highlights: Iconic U.S. composer Steve Reich participates in a concert honoring his 75th birthday (Jan. 18). The St. Lawrence String Quartet showcases its high-voltage verve in a classical-to-contemporary program (Feb. 10). Both take place at the Conrad Prebys Concert Hall, near Gilman Drive and Russell Lane. Tickets and info: 858.534.8497, artpwr.com/calendar Fun fact: The Conrad Prebys Concert Hall is named for the San Diego developer and philanthropist who once yearned to become a classical pianist. “I retired from performing at age 13,” he once said, “but I developed the enormous love of music that’s with me today.” Pre/post show eats: Despite the restaurant’s name, you’ll find no critters at Mustangs &

Burros at Estancia La Jolla Hotel (9700 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.550.1000), just plenty of Southwestern atmosphere and a convenient location near UCSD’s campus.

BACH COLLEGIUM SAN DIEGO Why it’s notable: Bach Collegium, currently in its ninth season, is the San Diego area’s only professional early music ensemble with an orchestra and chorus. You’ll hear such instruments as viols (the ancestors of violins, violas and cellos) and sackbuts (an early type of trombone). And you’ll feel as if you’ve been transported back to the era of Bach, Handel and other long-gone composers. Highlights: Get in the holiday spirit with a sonorous program titled Gaudete! Motets and Carols: Old and New, scheduled for Dec. 16 at St. James by-the-Sea Episcopal Church (743 Prospect St., La Jolla) and Dec. 17 at St. Andrew’s by-the-Sea Episcopal Church (1050 Thomas Ave., Pacific Beach). Tickets and info: 619.341.1726, bachcollegiumsd.org

Fun fact: When music director Ruben Valenzuela needed a last-minute replacement for an ailing singer, he found one through Facebook. Pre/post show eats: A short stroll from St. James is Roppongi, a trendy restaurant that flaunts Asian fusion (875 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.5252). Options near St. Andrew’s include JRDN at Tower23, an upscale establishment with a beachfront location (723 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736).

LA JOLLA MUSIC SOCIETY Why it’s notable: The La Jolla Music Society’s motto is “we bring the world to San Diego.” That it does, in a variety of ways. The 2011-12 season includes major orchestras and dance companies, celebrated jazz musicians and even winners of Moscow’s 2011 International Tchaikovsky Competition. Highlights: Pilobolus opens the “Dance Series” by displaying its delightfully inventive style in two performances on the same day (Jan. 14 at Birch Theatre, 2891 University Ave., North Park). Conductor Riccardo Muti

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(Clockwise from top left) Taiwanese dance troupe Cloud Gate 2, appearing at ArtPower!; San Diego Opera’s Moby-Dick; Bang on a Can All-Stars at ArtPower!; Ballroom with a Twist at San Diego Symphony.

moby-dick by karen almond/The dallas opera

and the Chicago Symphony—one of the leading symphonic ensembles in the country—launch this season’s “celebrity orchestra series” (Feb. 19 at copley symphony hall, 750 b st., downtown). Tickets and info: 858.459.3728, ljms.org Fun fact: Which famous film composer wrote a piece for the 25th anniversary of the music society’s summerFest? yes, it was John Williams. his Quartet La Jolla received its premiere last summer. Pre/post show eats: near the birch Theatre is Spread, a bastion of “nouveau comfort food” (2879 University ave., 619.543.0406). a short drive from symphony hall is the Westgate hotel’s elegant Westgate Room (1055 second ave., 619.557.3650).

SAN DIEGO OPERA Why it’s notable: There’s nothing else like it in the area. We’re talking about quality productions of baroque-to-contemporary repertoire and accomplished singers, most

of whom have appeared at leading opera houses in this country and abroad. Highlights: provocative and seductive, richard strauss’ Salome opens the 2012 season with four performances (Jan. 28 and 31, Feb. 3 and 5). For fresh thrills, try Moby-Dick, Jake heggie’s new opera based on herman melville’s seafaring classic (Feb. 18, 21, 24, 26). Tickets and info: 619.533.7000, sdopera.com Fun fact: in 1966, a little-known tenor was the last-minute replacement in the title role of san diego opera’s production of Faust. his name? placido domingo, who went on to become a megastar. Pre/post show eats: For opera-goers, one of the nearby favorites is Dobson’s (956 broadway circle, 619.231.6771). it’s cozy and clubby, so reservations are recommended.

SAN DIEGO SYMPHONY Why it’s notable: now in its 101st season, the san diego symphony is the oldest symphony orchestra in california. its annual

budget of approximately $18 million puts it in the highest tier of U.s. orchestras. and its home is copley symphony hall (750 b st., downtown), a gloriously ornate former movie palace once known as the Fox Theatre. Highlights: For the orchestra’s core classical programming, check out the Jacobs masterworks series, which includes beethoven’s beloved Ninth Symphony (dec. 9-11). The Winter pops gives dance a whirl in Ballroom with a Twist (Jan. 20-21) and Moscow Festival Ballet’s Sleeping Beauty (romantically scheduled for Valentine’s day, Feb. 14) and Swan Lake (Feb. 15). Tickets and info: 619.235.0804, sandiegosymphony.org Fun fact: When the Fox Theatre opened in 1929, the guest list included such celebs as buster keaton, Jackie coogan and Will rogers. Pre/post show eats: close to copley symphony hall, the popular La Gran Tapa (611 b st., downtown, 619.234.8272) is tops in spanish food and drink.

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exploring

Downtown

Left to right: the historic Balboa Theater; the harbor and skyline at sunset; browsing the Gaslamp Quarter’s many boutiques and galleries.

The past and present come together in San Diego’s lively, historic downtown neighborhoods.

Gaslamp Quarter

Businessman Alonzo Erastus Horton envisioned San Diego as a bustling port city, and in 1867 he spent $264 for 800 acres he called “New Town.” Today, New Town is known as the historic Gaslamp Quarter, or simply “The Gaslamp.” Comprising more than 16 blocks, the Gaslamp stretches from Broadway to Harbor Drive (just north of the Convention Center), with Fourth, Fifth and Sixth avenues as its main thoroughfares. Anchoring the area’s northwest end is Horton Plaza, a small square with a bubbling fountain on the corner of Broadway and Fourth. The Gaslamp’s immaculately preserved Victorian-style buildings are home to dozens of restaurants, clubs, theaters and retailers. Several tour guides offer an insider’s look at the Gaslamp (see p. 58), or create your own: The area can be easily covered on foot, or via bicycle, which can be rented at Bike Revolution (522 Sixth Ave.), located at the southeast corner of the district—conveniently right next door to Heavenly Cupcake (518 Sixth Ave.). C’mon, you deserve it. From there you can explore retail finds on the southern side of the zone, like Chuck Jones Gallery (232 Fifth Ave.), one of only three in the nation showcasing the work of the Oscarwinning animator responsible for the Road Runner, Wile E. Coyote and Marvin the Martian. Shop for designer resale at Carolyn’s (310 K St.) or pre-owned luxury watches at Nikki & Co. Fine Jewelers (562 Fifth Ave.). We also love GOGA (401 Market St.), the signature shop of one-time Project Runway contestant Gordana Gehlhausen, who designs her own line of feminine, ethereal tops and gowns and also carries items from up-and-coming Southern California labels. For national retailers, venture farther up Fifth, where you’ll find well-known stores like footwear boutique Sketchers (480 Fifth Ave.), Urban Outfitters (665 Fifth Ave.) and Dutch brand G-Star Raw (470 Fifth Ave.), with trendy styles for men and women. Or make your way over to Westfield Horton Plaza (see p. 57), a multilevel outdoor mall with a kaleidoscopic design that kicked off the revitalization of downtown when it was constructed in 1985. It’s now home to some 100 restaurants and shops including White House Black Market, Macy’s, BCBG and more. There’s also culture to be had at the mall: San Diego Repertory Theatre performs on the Lyceum theater stage, and the historic Balboa Theatre anchors the shopping center’s eastern edge, at Fourth Avenue and E Street (see p. 51). After a long day of shopping and sightseeing, sate your hunger at one of the Gaslamp’s

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100-plus restaurants and cafés, ranging from American to Chinese to Indian to Thai to steak and seafood (see dining guide, p. 35). Parking can be dicey in the Gaslamp; a garage is your best bet. Horton Plaza, with entrances on Fourth Avenue and G Street, offers up to three hours of free parking if you self-validate at machines on levels 1, 3 and 5. Be sure to note your “vegetable” or “fruit” level; it can be a confusing garage (619.239.8180). Park It On Market is a 500-space garage at Market Street with entrances on Sixth and Seventh avenues (619.232.1271); while 6th & K Parkade offers 1,230 spots, with entrances on Sixth and Seventh avenues (619.233.6624). For more information, call the Gaslamp Quarter Association (619.233.5227).

(opposite, from left) NELS AKERLUND, BRETT SHoaF/ARTISTIC VISUALS, ASHOK SINHA

Downtown’s Core

Just beyond the Gaslamp are several sites worth exploring, including the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego (see p. 55) and the New Children’s Museum (see p. 55), an interactive art/play place for kids of all ages. The San Diego Chinese Historical Museum (404 Third Ave.) also features a beautiful garden with a koi pond. Arts and culture abound downtown. More than a century old, the San Diego Symphony performs at Copley Symphony Hall (see p. 52), while Broadway/San Diego brings touring shows from New York to the Civic Theatre (1100 Third Ave.). Spreckels Theatre (121 Broadway) hosts many performing arts events throughout the year. See page 49 for additional theater listings.

East Village

The construction of Petco Park (100 Park Blvd.), home of the San Diego Padres, helped

gentrify this once-gritty neighborhood east of the Gaslamp. Seven years on, it’s now rife with entertainment options. Pick up a creamy burratta or a smoky Gouda at Venissimo Cheese (871 G St.), or a Tony Gwynn jersey at the Padres Team Store (J St. at Seventh Ave.). The neighborhood’s burgeoning art scene includes a few notable galleries: the edgy Periscope Project, built from stacked shipping cargo containers near the corner of 15th and K, and Alexander Salazar Fine Art, featuring mixed-media work from emerging and mid-career contemporary artists (640 Broadway).

Little Italy

A few blocks northwest of downtown, Little Italy is home to fabulous restaurants, galleries, boutiques and markets dotting the main drag, India Street. Highlights include Bottlecraft (2161 India St.), a craft beer shop and tasting room; Noel-Baza Fine Art (2165 India St.), a well-respected contemporary art gallery featuring legends and locals alike; trendy women’s boutique Melero (1918 India St.), and Bella Stanza (1501 India St.), with Murano glass, Italian ceramics and more. Take time to explore the streets branching off from India, too: The colorful cottages of the Fir Street Shops include Carol Gardyne Studio (1840 Columbia St.), with hand-painted silk scarves. Running parallel to India Street, Kettner Boulevard forms the spine of the art-anddesign district. A gallery cluster near the corner of Kettner and Kalmia includes cool Subtext Gallery, focused on lowbrow and graphic artists. Monthly on the second Friday, many area galleries host evening receptions. You can also shop for modern furniture, art and home accessories at chic Toke (2136

Kettner Blvd.), a design center founded by interior designers from Tijuana, or Mixture (2210 Kettner Blvd.), identifiable by its large roll-up garage door. Cannisse (1772 Kettner Blvd.) showcases its own line of chic, feminine casualwear made in France. Foodies shouldn’t miss the Saturday morning Mercato on Date Street, one of the city’s most popular farmer’s markets (619.233.3769).

Embarcadero

Another entertainment destination is Seaport Village (see p. 57), a 14-acre outdoor plaza with shops and a beautiful 19th-century carousel. The bayside boardwalk is ideal for walking to and from the Convention Center. Grab an iced cappuccino from Upstart Crow Trading Company (835-C W. Harbor Drive) and head for the Embarcadero Marina Park, which offers bike and jogging trails, basketball courts and picnicking. Continue north along the harbor to Broadway Pier, where you can embark on sightseeing excursions or catch the Coronado Ferry (1050 N. Harbor Drive), which travels across the bay several times daily. The USS Midway (see p. 56) invites the public to learn about America’s longestserving aircraft carrier. Many of the storytelling docents are veterans who served on the carrier over its 47-year history. The floating Maritime Museum (see p. 55) features several historic ships, including the HMS Surprise from the film Master and Commander. Keep your eyes open for Urban Trees, a public art project consisting of tree-like sculptures placed all along Harbor Drive For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 62. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 48.

Sister act

great find Minet and Natalie Taylor are rock royalty—their dad founded Taylor Guitars, played by shredders ranging from Sammy Hagar to Beck—but their passion is in fashion, so they opened Dolcetti, a clothing boutique and hair salon in a historic building in the Gaslamp. Under the original 1800s tin-tiled ceiling, you’ll find hip men’s and women’s fashions from up-and-coming designers. Favorite picks include pinup-influenced swimwear from local label Fables by Barrie, girlish dresses from London’s Darling, chunky sweaters, rompers in an array of fabulous prints and edgy accessories with rock ‘n’ roll flair—proof the girls just might be chips off the old block after all. 635 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.237.4413

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exploring

La Jolla

Left to right: the gateway to the La Jolla cave; Nancy Rubins’ Pleasure Point at the Museum of Contemporary Art San Diego; the view from Salk Institute.

La Jolla is a jewel sparkling with art, theater, fine dining, boutique shopping and the area’s best outdoor recreation.

BoUTiQUeS AnD gAllerieS

La Jolla’s spectacular streets are lined with high-end boutiques, antique stores and art galleries. Prospect Street and Girard Avenue form the spines of the village shopping district, but don’t be afraid to venture off onto side streets, where hidden gems await, including Brooks Brothers (1055 Wall St.) and Las Manos del Artesano (7940 Herschel Ave.), a gallery showcasing Latin American folk art, jewelry, pottery and more. On Girard, amid national brands like Banana Republic (7841 Girard Ave.), we love women’s apparel boutique Kerut (7944 Girard Ave.), a well-appointed spot run by a stylist. It’s not uncommon to find cupcakes and bubbly awaiting your arrival. Farther down Girard is La Maisonette (7631 Girard Ave.), an oasis of Parisian and French country gifts and textiles, as well as independent bookseller D.G. Wills (7461 Girard Ave.), for that rare first-edition. Back on Prospect Street, a slew of female-friendly stores like Victoria’s Secret (1111 Prospect St.), locally designed swimwear shop Sauvage (1025 Prospect St.) and Robina (1261 Prospect St.), with chic women’s apparel and accessories. The village is also home to many art galleries, whose collections range from landscape photography to Picasso canvases. Madison Gallery (1020 Prospect St.) traffics in art from a select pool of noted local artists as well as big names from Lichtenstein to Damien Hirst, while Martin Lawrence Gallery (1111 Prospect St.) specializes in original prints of masters like Chagall, Miró, Dalí, Warhol and Erte. Quint Gallery (7547 Girard Ave.) is one of the region’s most respected, showcasing edgy work by national artists like Ryan McGinness. La Jolla Boulevard heads south out of the village toward the charming neighborhood of Bird Rock, but don’t leave without stopping in at Sweet Paper, a boutique stationery shop run by design-savvy sisters (7527 La Jolla Blvd. just north of Pearl St.). The cottage that houses the store was once the home of painter—and one-time Picasso muse—Françoise Gilot. Continue southward for about two miles to reach Bird Rock, where worthwhile shops include Shabby Chic (5651 La Jolla Blvd.), with trendy, easy-breezy clothes fit for the coastal lifestyle. Break for coffee at Bird Rock Coffee Roasters (5627 La Jolla Blvd.), whose soughtafter beans are served at cafés throughout the city, or pick up a loaf of low-carb, gluten-free bread at Julian Bakery (5621 La Jolla Blvd.). La Jolla Shores, just a short drive up Torrey Pines Road, is also worth a visit. The wide, flat beach is perfect for swimming and sunning, while the tiny main drag, Avenida de la Playa, is lined with eateries and rental shops with all the surf and kayak gear you need.

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(opposite, from left) IAN WHITE, edwin santiago, courtesy symphony at salk

arts & Science

The University of California, San Diego (9500 Gilman Drive) is home to one of the best theaters in the country: La Jolla Playhouse (see p. 49 for additional theater listings). The theater was founded in 1947 by actors Mel Ferrer, Dorothy McGuire and La Jolla native Gregory Peck. Each season is a mix of classic and daring productions; many have gone straight to Broadway. The Stuart Collection, a group of sitespecific outdoor sculptures, adds to the artistic setting at UCSD (p. 56). A 24-foot giant teddy bear made of boulders and a 560-footlong Snake Path are among the artworks placed throughout the 1,200-acre campus. Just north of campus is the Salk Institute for Biological Studies (10010 N. Torrey Pines Road), an architectural masterpiece designed by Louis Kahn. The scientific research complex was named in honor of Dr. Jonas Salk, who discovered a vaccine for polio and later lived in La Jolla. Tours of campus architecture are available to the public (858.453.4100 x1262). Southwest of campus sits Scripps Institu tion of Oceanography (8622 Kennel Way) and neighboring Birch Aquarium (see p. 53), both among the best ocean life learning centers in the world. In La Jolla village, the Museum of Con temporary Art San Diego (see p. 55) examines the boundaries of art created since 1950. Housed in the former home of Ellen Browning Scripps, the museum’s galleries boast an unparalleled ocean view, while Nancy Rubins’ stunning large-scale, nautical-inspired artwork adorns the museum’s west side. Definitely schedule a stop at the gift shop. The Athenaeum Music and Arts Library (1008 Wall St.) features year-round art exhibitions, plus jazz and chamber music concerts,

and a treasure trove of books and records. Many well-known names have called La Jolla home, including Theodor “Dr. Seuss” Geisel, actress Raquel Welch, motivational speaker Tony Robbins and author Anne Rice.

Recreation

La Jolla is paradise for outdoorsy types. The Cove (1100 Coast Blvd.) is a haven for swimmers and snorkelers; La Jolla Shores (8200 Camino del Oro) has easy access for scuba divers; and Windansea (6800 Neptune Place), immortalized in Tom Wolfe’s The Pump House Gang, is the ultimate surfing break. Children’s Pool, a small cove next to Ellen Browning Scripps Park, is a place to observe wildlife, particularly the harbor seals that have taken over the area. The seals’ encampment has caused an ongoing community debate: Some residents want to reclaim the cove for a children’s pool; others advocate for the seals. For a quick bite, try one of the many oceanview restaurants along Prospect Street or Coast Boulevard.

Torrey Pines

Torrey Pines is just north of La Jolla village. There, you’ll find the 2,000-acre Torrey Pines State Reserve, which offers eight miles of hiking trails winding through wind-sculpted pines and wildflowers. Located off Coast Highway 101 between La Jolla and Del Mar, the reserve was established to protect the nation’s rarest pine tree, the Pinus torreyana. The visitors center, a pueblo-style structure at the top of Park Road, is available to help with guided tours. One of the reserve’s trails leads directly to Torrey Pines State Beach, located on North Torrey Pines Road. The beach, which spans 4.5 miles from Del Mar to the cliffs at Torrey Pines Mesa, is a great place for swimming,

boating and fishing. You can also catch these amazing ocean views from up high, via a hang glider or paraglider. The Torrey Pines Glider Port and Flight Park (2800 Torrey Pines Scenic Drive) offers flights (tandem, too) for novices and extreme adventure seekers. Adjacent Blacks Beach is a two-mile sandy strip known for great surfing—and nude sunbathing (“not officially sanctioned”). Getting to Blacks isn’t easy. If you can, park near the Glider Port and hike to the bottom of the bluffs, paying close attention to warning signs about unstable cliffs. You can walk a mile from Torrey Pines State Beach, but access may be blocked by high tides. The Torrey Pines Golf Course gives golfers the ultimate indulgence: two courses with stunning ocean views. In 2008, the landmark became one of the only public courses to host a U.S. Open; it’s also the site of the PGA Tour’s Farmers Insurance Open (see p. 32).

Golden Triangle

The area east of La Jolla village is known as the Golden Triangle, bordered by Interstate 5 on the west, Interstate 805 on the east and State Route 52 on the south. This triangular area includes upscale hotels, fine dining and great shopping. The shopping district revolves around Westfield University Towne Centre (see p. 57), which locals shorten to “UTC.” This outdoor mall, anchored by Macy’s and Nordstrom, features dozens of eateries and retail storefronts, including Anthropologie, Ann Taylor, Banana Republic, Apple, Tumi and Williams-Sonoma. From the village, go north on Torrey Pines Road and turn right on La Jolla Village Drive. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 63. For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 48.

ART ATTACK

great find The La Jolla art and design district gets a new resident this season with the arrival of Scott White Contemporary Art, recently relocated from Little Italy. The 3,000-square-foot 1950s building will serve as a showcase for artists represented by gallerist Scott White, a one-time adviser to Sotheby’s who has repped mega-stars like Willem de Kooning, Bernar Venet, Mark Rothko and Andy Warhol. Boasting 16-foot ceilings, the new space will be inaugurated with an exhibition of work by painter/humanitarian Ross Bleckner, who in 2009 became the first fine artist to be awarded the title of Goodwill Ambassador by the United Nations (through Dec. 21). 7655 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 619.501.5689

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Beach Cities

Left to right: heading out for a surf in Coronado; boards and beach cruisers at the Mission Beach Boardwalk; the lighthouse at Point Loma.

From Coronado to Pacific Beach: Welcome to Southern California’s most scenic oceanside neighborhoods.

Coronado

Coronado is an island of small-town quaintness amid San Diego’s big-city bustle. Well, it’s not really an island, though many locals call it that. Coronado is actually an isthmus, attached to the mainland at the southern end of Silver Strand State Beach. Though driving there via the iconic Coronado Bridge is always a thrill, it’s also great fun to travel by sea. The Coronado/San Diego Ferry leaves on the hour from downtown’s Broadway Pier between 9 am and 9 pm (619.234.4111), while San Diego Water Taxi offers on-call transportation around the bay from 9 am to 10 pm (619.235.8294). Upon arrival, you can browse the shops and restaurants at Coronado Ferry Landing Marketplace (1201 First St.), then rent a cruiser at Bikes and Beyond to explore Coronado’s flat, tree-lined side streets. Head south on the main drag of Orange Avenue to find an inviting entertainment district, with shops like Coronado Taste of Oils (954 Orange Ave.), where you can sample dozens of flavors of gourmet olive oils and vinegars, and The Attic (1011 Orange Ave.), with new and vintage home décor. Don’t miss side-by-side shops Be Styled, with chic tops, dresses and accessories, and Blue Jeans & Bikinis, which makes it easy to shop for those two items women notoriously hate having to try on (1113 Adella Ave.). You’ll find another cluster of shops selling designer clothing and eyewear, home décor and more coastal California merchandise inside the storybook Hotel del Coronado (1500 Orange Ave.), opened in 1888 and designated a National Historic Landmark in 1977. For more on the town’s history, stop by the Coronado Museum of History and Art (1100 Orange Ave.). Spreckels Park (Orange Ave. between Sixth and Seventh sts.) sits between these two retail zones and is an ideal place to take a break from all that strenuous shopping.

Shelter Island and Harbor Island

Shelter Island and Harbor Island aren’t really “islands” either; they’re connected to the mainland and were created more than 35 years ago with tons of sand dredged from the floor of the bay. Shelter Island, with its many bars, restaurants and nautically themed stores, is the departure point for various sportfishing charters. The area is also home to Humphrey’s Concerts by the Bay, a 1,400-seat outdoor theater that hosts jazz, blues and pop headliners in warmer months. Nearby Harbor Island has its own, smaller outdoor festival site, Spanish Landing Park, and several bayview restaurants. Both islands offer postcard vistas of the downtown skyline, plus flat paths for walks and bike rides.

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(opposite, left to right) ASHOK SINHA, IAN WHITE, edwin santiago

Ocean Beach and Point Loma

“O.B.” for short, this neighborhood is truly one of San Diego’s most unique. It’s an endless summer of love in O.B., an aggregation of aging hippies, surfers, bikers, artists, musicians and other free spirits. OBceans possess a strong sense of community and territorial pride best summed up by a oncepopular bumper sticker: “U.S. out of O.B.” The main drag, Newport Avenue, smells of incense and has many shops catering to the O.B. lifestyle, but also plenty of antiques dealers at places like Newport Avenue Antiques (4836 Newport Ave.). Music junkies will love the vintage vinyl at Cow Records (5029 Newport Ave.), while Galactic Comics (4981 Newport Ave.) is heaven for graphic-novel fans. Pine Tree Road (4885 Newport Ave.) specializes in soaps, scrubs and lotions, and nearby Azucar is a Cuban-style patisserie with fresh-baked scones, honey buns and more (4820 Newport Ave.). Off Newport, don’t miss Noon (4993 Niagara Ave.), with handmade letterpress cards and jewelry. Wind down the day with a leisurely stroll down the Ocean Beach Pier, which, at 1,971 feet, is one of the longest concrete piers in the country. Nearby Point Loma is home to a small but charming array of restaurants and cafés, as well as the Cabrillo National Monument, Fort Rosecrans National Cemetery and military installations. The Cabrillo National Monument (see p. 54) offers panoramic vistas stretching from San Diego to Mexico. There are also hiking trails, tidepools, a historic lighthouse, a bookstore and museum exhibits about conquistador Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo, the founder of San Diego.

Mission Beach and Pacific Beach

Two of San Diego’s most popular beaches, Mission Beach and Pacific Beach (“P.B.” to locals) form an unbroken band of sand that stretches for three miles, from the mouth of Mission Bay to the rocky points of La Jolla. Both are overflowing with restaurants, bars and boutiques. South Mission Beach is home to serious beach volleyball and bayside basketball games. Farther north, check out the star attraction at the Belmont Park amusement park: the Giant Dipper, a restored 1925 wooden roller coaster (see p. 53). Another landmark dating back to 1925 is Crystal Pier, at the foot of Garnet Avenue in P.B. This 400-foot-long wooden pier is gated and lined with rental cottages. However, the pier is open to the public during the day and is always popular with fishermen. The best way to experience this area is to walk along the boardwalk, where peoplewatching is not just encouraged, it’s a must. If the nonstop parade of skateboarders, inliners, bikers, joggers and walkers gets to be too much, walk across Mission Boulevard to the bayside boardwalk, where there’s much less of a scene. Garnet Avenue and Mission Boulevard form the backbone of this funky, retro retail district, which boasts dozens of small shops filled with surfing gear, swimsuits and casual wear. Begin the 10-block shopping stroll where the two main streets intersect, then head east. (Note: These are long blocks.) First order of business: find that perfect bikini. SunSplash (979 Garnet Ave.) can help, with stylish swimwear and casual beachwear in a wide array of sizes. For the rest of the outfit, try Chillers Showroom (4667 Cass

great find

St.), a spacious shop just off the main drag selling men’s and women’s clothing in a relaxed, lounge-like atmosphere. Farther up Garnet Avenue is Rusty Spokes Vintage Bicycles (1344 Garnet Ave.), which specializes in antique and classic cycles. Venturing north on Mission Boulevard from Garnet leads you to Urban Outfitters (4516 Mission Blvd.), various bike-rental shops and Surfindian (4658 Mission Blvd.), a gallery with art inspired by San Diego’s most sacred sport. Heading south brings you to Mission Beach, home to bikini emporium Pilar’s (3745 Mission Blvd.) and The Basement (3790 Mission Blvd.), with clothing and jewelry by local designers.

Mission Bay Park

Mission Bay Park is a 4,000-acre gathering spot for locals and visitors to enjoy outdoor activities including running, biking, skating, kite-flying, sailing and boating. The park is made up of various coves, points and islands with excellent picnicking spots and fire pits. Several sportfishing charters depart daily from Mission Bay, and a variety of watercraft can be rented from nearby shops. If you’re feeling adventurous, try your hand at stand-up paddleboarding. The west side of the bay is also home to several resort hotels and SeaWorld (see p. 54), the internationally known park sheltering more than 12,000 aquatic animals. Don’t miss Shark Encounter, a 57-foot underwater walkway offering a peek into the world of sand tiger, bonnethead and whitetip sharks. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 61. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 48.

IN BLOOM

Childhood friends Kristy and Katherine started Root 75 out of a desire “to buy lots and lots of cute things and pretty flowers for a living,” and in that lofty goal, they’ve succeeded. Floral designer Kristy got together with money-smart Katherine to open this small spot—part indie flower shop, part well-curated home décor boutique—on Coronado’s chic Orange Avenue. The retail selection is small but covetable: charmingly designed tea towels, locally made baby bibs, vintage-style glassware, candles, greeting cards, vases and adorable animal-shape ceramics from Jonathan Adler. It’s a must-stop shop for that design snob on your list. Open Tue.-Sun. 845 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.6060

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exploring

Uptown

Left to right: In the heart of artsy North Park; the historic Birch North Park Theatre; Hillcrest by night.

Hillcrest, Mission Hills, North Park: Neighborhoods full of culture, character and charm.

Uptown encompasses some of S.D.’s most diverse and eclectic neighborhoods. Hillcrest, which borders Balboa Park’s northwest corner, is one of the county’s most vibrant areas. Adjacent University Heights and Mission Hills are filled with Craftsman-style homes and quaint boutiques. Just east of Hillcrest, a renovated theater, galleries and cafés have helped North Park become San Diego’s newest arts district, while its residential neighbor to the south is the area’s best-kept secret for unique gift shopping.

Hillcrest

The hub of Hillcrest, at the intersection of University and Fifth avenues, is a buzzing, heavily trafficked scene throughout the day, with cars lined up in both directions and joggers, dogwalkers and coffee-sippers crowding the sidewalks. Fabulous shopping begins at University and First avenues and runs 12 blocks to Park Boulevard. Score vases, candles and home décor at Cathedral (435 University Ave.), retro urban footwear at Mint (525 University Ave.) and hip men’s fashions and home accents at House Boi (1435 University Ave.). Just off the main drag, you’ll find all manner of headgear at the Village Hat Shop (3821 Fourth Ave.). Leave time to peruse 5th Avenue Books (3838 Fifth Ave.) and Bluestocking Books (3817 Fifth Ave.), whose shelves are lined with out-of-print and rare tomes. By night, Hillcrest lights up with restaurants, bars and dance clubs and a great art-house movie theater, the Landmark (3965 Fifth Ave. #200).

UNIVERSITY HEIGHTS & MISSION HILLS

Northeast of Hillcrest on Park Boulevard lies quaint University Heights, home to ethnic eateries and good shopping at places like Frock You (4121 Park Blvd.), a clothing store whose helpful staff knows its stuff when it comes to vintage fashion. University Heights also has an astonishing number of cafés for such a small neighborhood, each catering to a different clientele. We love the back patio at quiet, well-designed Monica’s at the Park (1735 Adams Ave.) for a cappuccino break. The streets of gorgeous Mission Hills, northwest of Hillcrest, are lined with stately homes, quaint cafés and boutiques. Cecilia’s (928 Fort Stockton Drive #115) offers the latest fashions for women, including lots of stuff by local designers, while Maison en Provence (820 Fort Stockton Drive) carries French country home accessories. Presidio Park, at the western edge of this neighborhood, is historically significant as the site

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of the first European settlement in California (619.692.4918). Scenic trails lead to the neighboring Junípero Serra Museum. The museum, built in 1929, is a replica of the mission erected there in 1769.

Fresh produce at the Hillcrest farmer’s market, held every Sunday.

(opposite, center) amy k. fellows, (others) bjarne g. jensen, (this page, top) rich cook, (bottom) cole joseph photography

North Park

Centered at University Avenue and 30th Street, North Park is San Diego’s newest arts district, thanks in part to the restoration of the historic 1928 Birch North Park Theatre (2891 University Ave.). Gallery-hopping events are held select Saturday nights from 6 to 9 pm; check northparkarts.org for details. The area is also home to dozens of independent clothing and décor boutiques. We love the organic cotton baby clothes and stylish art books sold at Pigment (3827 30th St.), while Aloha Sunday Supply Co. (3118 University Ave.) has a great selection of low-key, surf-inspired clothing and accessories. After dark, North Park comes alive with dozens of bars, clubs and restaurants.

SOUTH PARK

About a mile south of University on 30th Street lies the quiet neighborhood known as South Park. Though largely residential, South Park does have a few good neighborhood eateries and bars, and it’s a great place to shop for gifts while supporting the local independent merchants. Favorite retailers in this area include The Grove bookstore (3010 Juniper St.), which also has a crafting nook inside; modern home furnishings and design emporium Progress (2225 30th St.) and Make Good (2207 Fern St.), with clothing, home accents, jewelry and other items from local crafters. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 62. For a list of restaurants in this area, see page 48.

great find

in stitches

Craft is back in scenes ranging from food to beer and now fashion. Recalling a time when life’s accoutrements were less disposable is South Park’s Crow Thief, where respect for the past is evident even in the boutique’s design. Vintage chairs, antique fans and reclaimed fenceboard cladding set the stage for owner Melissa Hendrix-Lawson’s handbuilt menswear, which she designs in classic silhouettes out of high-quality fabrics including wool plaid, heavyweight grey denim and breezy cotton. Choose from one of the limitedrun shirt and jacket options available off the rack or commission your own custom-fit design. Closed Mon.-Wed. 3009 Grape St., South Park, 619.961.6210

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exploring

North Coast

Left to right: the Self-Realization Fellowship in Encinitas; the Del Mar Fairgrounds; the surfer sculpture locals call the Cardiff “kook.”

Del Mar, Solana Beach, Encinitas, Carlsbad ... These cities exemplify the good life.

Del Mar

Del Mar’s celebrity status began more than 70 years ago, when the oceanside paradise became home of the Del Mar Racetrack (2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd.). Actors Bing Crosby and Pat O’Brien helped establish the track—and its track record for hosting the Hollywood elite at the Thoroughbred Club. Ava Gardner, W.C. Fields, Lucille Ball, Desi Arnaz, Jimmy Durante and Mickey Rooney were among the regulars in the late 1930s, ‘40s and ‘50s. Today, the racing season runs from mid-July to early September, but exciting events are held at the Del Mar Fairgrounds year-round. Jimmy Durante Boulevard—named for the famous entertainer who lived in Del Mar— paves the way from the track to the heart of the village. The intersection of Camino del Mar and 15th Street forms Del Mar’s center. The three-story Del Mar Plaza (see p. 56) has scenic fountains and sweeping ocean views, plus upscale shops like clothing boutiques Gerhard and Peaches en Regalia; Loghman Jewelers, with Italian jewelry and watches; and chains like Banana Republic and Sunglass Hut. There’s more retail along Del Mar’s main street, Camino del Mar, and the area can easily be covered on foot. The shopping district is lined with gift stores like Sundancer (1418 Camino del Mar), plus several casual cafés and eateries. More great shopping is a short drive away. East of the Fairgrounds, off I-5 on Via de la Valle, is Flower Hill Promenade (2720 Via de la Valle), where shops include women’s boutique TRE, men’s clothier Patrick James and Dallman Chocolate Boutique. At the end of the day, walk to Seagrove Park (Coast Blvd. at 15th St.) to enjoy a brilliant sunset. From the hush of the surf you can almost hear the echo of Bing Crosby, singing the jingle he wrote in honor of the track: Where the turf meets the surf, down at old Del Mar...

Solana Beach

Solana Beach is home to some of the most chic stores in San Diego County. The Cedros Design District begins at South Cedros Avenue and Lomas Santa Fe Drive, easily accessible by The Coaster, the train that runs from downtown San Diego to Oceanside. More than 50 shops spanning a quarter-mile feature fashion, home furnishings and antiques. Most of the boutiques on South Cedros are housed in renovated Quonset huts (iron warehouses shaped like a half-cylinder), giving this neighborhood an artistic feel. Fuel up for your walking tour of the neighborhood at Claire’s (246 N. Cedros Ave.), across from

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the train station. it’s the kind of eco-conscious place that provides preferred parking for electric and hybrid cars. then pop in to Tobi Blatt (152 N. Cedros Ave.), with women’s clothing from labels like true Religion. Cross lomas santa fe to explore south Cedros: We love Cedros Soles (143 S. Cedros Ave.) for the latest footwear; HIS (111 S. Cedros Ave. #200), a store geared towards the styleminded guy; and Bixby & Ball (214 S. Cedros Ave.), with linens, home décor items and other coastal-lifestyle accessories. linger long enough to smell the sweet aromas springing from Mistral (146 S. Cedros Ave.), a small bungalow with soaps and lotions imported from france. farther down the street you’ll find hip home décor and art books at Solo (309 S. Cedros Ave.), the Susan Street Fine Art contemporary art gallery and Curve Couture, a trendy plussize clothing boutique (both at 415 S. Cedros Ave.). Nestled among the retail shops is one of the county’s top live music venues: The Belly Up Tavern (see p. 58), a solana Beach landmark for more than 35 years.

(opposite, left) iAN WHite, (otHeRs) ReBeCCA MoRqueCHo

Encinitas and cardiff-by-thE-sEa

Heading north on 101 from solana Beach, you’ll pass through the small surf community of Cardiff-by-the-sea. Be sure to get a picture with the Cardiff “kook,” the sculpture of a surfer that locals have fondly ridiculed for years. officially named The Magic Carpet Ride, the statue is often dressed up in outrageous outfits (military fatigues, a toga, a bikini) by anonymous midnight marauders. As you continue north approaching downtown encinitas, you’ll see a unique silhouette among the palm trees. the Self-Realization

Fellowship Retreat and Hermitage (215 K St.), with its lotus blossom–shaped towers, dates back to 1937. A portion of the grounds is open free to the public. A stroll through the lush, cliffside gardens offers views of surfers at nearby Swami’s Beach (1298 S. Coast Hwy. 101), a popular break for longboarders. up the road, The Lumberyard’s twodozen-odd shops include stylish clothier Mog & Rue, modern home-and-garden store Grounded and Chuao Chocolatier, whose gourmet sweets are made from the finest Venezuelan chocolate. there’s also an array of wine bars, eateries and cafés, many with outdoor seating (937 S. Coast Hwy. 101). in the center of downtown, the historic La Paloma Theatre (471 S. Coast Hwy. 101) has anchored the district since the 1920s and still hosts films and concerts. Boutiques and restaurants also line the strip. the new Pacific Station complex boasts a Whole foods; Icons boutique, with denim and tees; and Bliss 101, an art/home/body shop run by a collective of artisans devoted to the principles of fair trade (687 S. Coast Hwy. 101). North Coast Highway 101 runs through sleepy Leucadia, where it’s easy to speed right by gems like Lou’s Records (434 N. Coast Hwy. 101), with its selection of hip lps and CDs, and Ducky Waddles Emporium (414 N. Coast Hwy. 101), with its excellent collection of books on all things arty or bawdy. A great cluster of shops is found at The Gold Coast (466 N. Coast Hwy. 101), whose tenants include deepFling, with silver jewelry from scandinavian designers, and stylish children’s boutique Daisy Bee. A short drive inland leads to San Diego Botanic Garden, a 35-acre treasure showcasing more than 3,000 rare and exotic plants (see p. 54).

carlsbad

Downtown Carlsbad is a picturesque seaside village with tree-lined roads, restaurants and boutique shopping. Along Carlsbad Village Drive, the main drag, you’ll find two local landmarks: Ocean House (300 Carlsbad Village Drive), a restaurant and nighttime hot spot that boasts beautiful Victorian architecture, and nearby Frazier’s Well (2802 Carlsbad Blvd.), where sea captain John frazier discovered mineral water in 1882. Next to ocean House is Carlsbad Village Faire, a shopping center home to several casual eateries and shops. Retail on nearby state street includes antique stores and shops like Fairen Del (2940 State St.), with an assortment of fine leather goods, shoes, handbags and jewelry. A short drive east of the freeway on palomar Airport Road leads to great outlet shopping at Carlsbad Premium Outlets (see p. 56), with brand-name stores like BCBG, Kenneth Cole and Michael Kors. Continuing on palomar Airport Road from the outlets will lead you to another cluster of attractions. LegoLand (see p. 54) is 128 acres of kid-friendly entertainment that includes a new sea life Aquarium. Nearby, the Museum of Making Music (see p. 55) is filled with musical memorabilia. La Costa Resort and Spa (2100 Costa del Mar Road) is home to the Chopra Center for Well Being, with spa therapies and wellness programs created by holistic specialist Deepak Chopra. two miles south of la Costa is The Forum (see p. 57), an outdoor, spanish-style mall whose shops include Tilly’s surf shop, Anthropologie and organic skincare shop NuboNau. For a map of these neighborhoods, see page 63. For information about restaurants in this area, see page 48.

SURF CITY STYle

grEat find Beside the breakers and tucked below The lofts residences is The Den, an appropriately named small boutique that is anything but small on versatility, offering looks ranging from edgy, rocker-chick brands and high-end denim to soft, lacy brassieres by Cosabella. If you prefer the earthy, free-spirit look, try a sea-salt-dyed dress by Indah or create your own necklace by mixing and matching chains and charms by love Heals—10 trees are planted with every purchase. looks for guys include tees, button-ups and jeans by House of Howe and KR3W, while children’s apparel comes with a dose of attitude (see: Rock Steady onesies with slogans like “Chicks Dig Me”). 90 N. Coast Highway 101 #212, encinitas, 760.479.0650

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exploring

Balboa Park

Left to right: the graceful architecture of the House of Hospitality; a bonobo at play at the San Diego Zoo (located inside the park); the Old Globe Theatre.

Art, music and performance bloom year-round.

Spanning 1,200 acres of lush, beautifully landscaped terrain, Balboa Park is known as San Diego’s “crown jewel,” offering a variety of outdoor recreation options for kids and adults alike, not to mention a verdant respite from the bustle of the city’s increasingly metropolitan pace. The park is also the seat of San Diego’s thriving cultural scene. Nestled between palm trees and botanical gardens, ornate Spanish Colonial buildings house many of the park’s museums and art exhibits. Several of the buildings were constructed as part of two world fairs: the Panama-California Exposition in 1915–16, and the California-Pacific International Exposition in 1935–36. It can take more than one day to see and enjoy each museum, garden and attraction. The Visitors Center (619.239.0512) in the House of Hospitality offers a Passport to Balboa Park, allowing admission to any of the park’s museums for one week. (Keep in mind some museums are closed on Mondays.) Deluxe packages include passes to the neighboring San Diego Zoo. Or go high-tech and let the park’s new iPhone app be your guide.

ArTS & CUlTUre

Performing arts abound in the park. The Old Globe Theatre routinely presents top talent in world-renowned productions; winter features include the world-premiere holiday musical Some Lovers (through Dec. 31), featuring new tunes by Burt Bacharach, and Horton Foote’s Dividing the Estate (Jan. 14-Feb. 12), nominated for a Tony in 2009 for Best Play. See p. 49 for more theater listings. Elsewhere in the park, the Marie Hitchcock Puppet Theatre presents whimsical puppet shows, while Spreckels Organ Pavilion houses the world’s largest outdoor pipe organ, with some 4,500 pipes. Free concerts are offered Sundays at 2 pm. The park is also home to groups celebrating culture. The House of Pacific Relations International Cottages promotes the heritage of countries around the world by hosting open houses and weekend festivals. Neighboring WorldBeat Center uses art, music, dance and education to celebrate African and indigenous cultures, while Centro Cultural de la Raza is a multidisciplinary center dedicated to the preservation of Chicano/Latino culture. The park has a vast array of institutions celebrating the visual arts, past and present. Known for its presentation of eclectic traveling exhibitions, the San Diego Museum of Art also has a trove of Renaissance and Baroque works, plus a large Asian collection; exhibitions of Mexican Modernism and Hard-Edge painting are on view this season. The

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(OPPOSITE) BJARNE G. JENSEN EXCEPT BONOBO COURTESY SAN DIEGO ZOO; (THIS PAGE, TOP) EDWIN SANTIAGO, (BOTTOM) RJACKSON WOOLLEY, BONUS, 1967, PHOTO BY STEVE OLIVER

world-class Museum of Photographic Arts showcases compelling photography and also presents films in its state-of-the-art theater. The Mingei International Museum is dedicated to folk art, craft and design from around the world, while the Timken Museum of Art is home to the Putnam Foundation’s renowned collection of European and Byzantine art, including Russian religious paintings. The San Diego Art Institute’s Museum of the Living Artist presents exhibitions by contemporary local artists every four to six weeks, and the historic Spanish Village Art Center is a collection of 37 studios representing more than 200 artists working in media ranging from sculpture to blown glass; the charming courtyard setting is meant to evoke an Old World town square.

SCienCe & HiSTorY

Balboa Park’s many non-visual-art museums are a huge draw for children, but most distinguish themselves by crafting exhibitions that also appeal to adult sensibilities. The San Diego Air and Space Museum salutes aviation with 68 original, reproduction and model airplanes and spacecraft. The Reuben H. Fleet Science Center has interactive science exhibitions and an IMAX Dome theater. The country’s largest multisports museum, the San Diego Hall of Champions has interactive displays inviting sports fans to test their athletic and broadcasting skills. From antiques to hot rods, the San Diego Automotive Museum’s collection illustrates the evolution of the automobile. The San Diego Natural History Museum’s life-sized T-Rex skeleton, fossil exhibits and 3-D theater let visitors explore the natural world. Dedicated to the study of anthropol-

The iconic Museum of Man

greAT Find

CRAFT-TASTIC

As part of the Getty’s monumental Pacific Standard Time initiative surveying Southern California’s impact on the art world, the Mingei International Museum presents San Diego’s Craft Revolution—From Post-War Modern to California Design. The show spotlights the work of more than 60 unconventional local artists—including jewelry designers Toza and Ruth Radakovich, ceramicist Rhoda Lopez, sculptor James Hubbell and Arline Fisch, known for weaving copper wire as if it were fabric—who went on to earn national recognition. People are buzzing about Douglas Deeds’ chairs made out of recycled beer cans and John Dirks’ stunning Ibex, carved from teak. Through April 15. 1439 El Prado, 619.239.0003

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for the

WHOLE

ogy, the San Diego Museum of Man explores cultures of the world, especially the Americas. The largest of its kind, the Model Railroad Museum boasts scale models and interactive features for children. The Museum of San Diego History features traveling shows and exhibitions culled from the Historical Society’s vast collection. At the Veteran’s Museum & Memorial Center visitors will find military uniforms from World War I, Vietnam and the Korean War, as well as maritime paintings by local artists and other displays. The Marston House, an Arts & Crafts mansion designed in 1905 by noted architect Irving Gill, is a must for history and architecture buffs; the grounds also feature a carriage house and gardens.

attractions & gardens San Diego’s only IMAX® Dome Theater plus 100+ Hands-On Science Exhibits

Open every day with free parking. Located in beautiful Balboa Park.

(619) 238-1233 • www.rhfleet.org

San Diego Natural History Museum

The park’s major attraction is, of course, the San Diego Zoo (see p. 54), with some 4,000 rare and endangered species. Among the animal residents you’ll find the much-beloved meerkats, Asian and African elephants, monkeys, birds and more. Be sure to stop by Panda Canyon to say hello to the newest member of the clan, Yun Zi. After visiting the zoo, try your hand at the brass ring game from your perch atop a hand-carved pony on the Balboa Park Carousel. Both kids and grown-ups are welcome on the Balboa Park Miniature Railroad, which takes a 3-minute, half-mile trip through four acres of the park. The park also features several gardens, a legacy left by its founding “mother,” botanist Kate Sessions. Complete with ornate fountains and colorful tiling, the Spanishstyle Alcazar Garden, which abuts the Art Institute and Mingei Museum, blooms with 7,000 brilliantly colored annuals. The Japanese Friendship Garden features a Zen meditation garden and bonsai exhibit, while the sunken Zoro Garden has an interesting history: It was designed as a nudist colony during the 1935 California-Pacific International Exposition but is now a habitat for monarch, sulfur and swallowtail butterflies. Also built for the Expo, the Old Cactus Garden has succulents and other exotic plants. With some 2,100 orchids, ferns, poinsettias and other plants, the Botanical Building is among the world’s largest lath structures; along with its gorgeous Lily Pond, it’s one of the park’s most photographed sites.

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RECREATION

From hiking and jogging to tennis and bocce ball, you’ll find it in the park. The Balboa Park Activity Center has facilities for badminton, table tennis, volleyball and more, while the Balboa Park Municipal Golf Course offers striking views of downtown and Coronado. At Texas and Upas streets, on the park’s northeast end, the Morley Field Sports Complex is a haven for disc golf fans and other sports nuts, boasting a pool, velodrome, archery range and bocce court. Check in here for information on the many hike and bike trails through Florida Canyon, a popular workout spot for joggers. The nearby Balboa Tennis Club is open to the public, with 25 courts and a full-service pro shop, plus lessons and clinics. The dapper, white-clad members of the San Diego Lawn Bowling Club, which has been around for more than 75 years, play six days a week near the corner of Sixth Ave. and Laurel St. Visitors are welcome to join the fun and receive a free lesson. There are also a few leash-free dog parks here, including one at Balboa Drive and El Prado, south of the Cabrillo Bridge, and another at Morley Field, northwest of the tennis courts.

WWW.SPACESD.COM

DINING

Several casual snack bars and coffee carts can be found throughout the park and inside certain museums. For a sit-down experience, try The Prado, whose lively, colorful interior and charming garden patio—not to mention hearty American cuisine, refreshing salads and exotic South American cocktails—have made it a longtime local favorite. The Tea Pavilion at the Japanese Friendship Garden serves tea, noodles and sushi in a casual setting, while the Sculpture Court Café at the San Diego Museum of Art is a good bet for salads and sandwiches. For the at-home gourmand, the Balboa Park Food & Wine School has classes in everything from fondue-making to sushi rolling taught by celebrated local chefs, plus wine education. Make sure to make reservations in advance, though, as classes tend to fill up quickly. A map of Balboa Park is on page 62. Museums and attractions are listed in the where guide.

NO WONDER IT’S WORLD FAMOUS sandiegozoo.org

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Torrey Pines Golf Course

A GUIDE TO

THE gREENS From the desert to the sea, San Diego’s got game

steele canyon golf club A perfect combination of scenery and challenge, this 27-hole course in the East County community of Jamul is the only one in San Diego designed by Gary Player. It features three distinct courses, each with four sets of tees that invite all levels of play. Canyon Nine provides breathtaking elevations; Ranch Nine winds through fields surrounding a working ranch; and Meadow Nine stretches along the pastoral valley floor where wildlife often plays through. Steele Canyon was named one of the top 10 courses in California by Golf for Women and received Golf Digest’s four-star award. 3199 Stonefield Drive, Jamul, 619.441.6900

torrey pines golf course

maderas golf club

Site of the 2008 U.S. Open and the annual PGA tournament known as the Farmers Insurance Open, this is one of the bestknown courses in America. (Tiger Woods and local Phil Mickelson are among the greats who have played here.) The two courses have stunning ocean views from the bluffs above the Pacific, wide fairways and sloping greens. The South Course (par 72; 7,628 yards) is a bit more difficult than the North (par 72; 6,874 yards), with the seventh and 12th holes being two of the town’s toughest. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 800.985.4653

This Johnny Miller- and Robert Muir Graves–designed course is set in secluded canyons and ravines 20 minutes northeast of downtown, complemented by oaks, sycamores, creeks, lakes, waterfalls and 40 acres of native wildflowers. This 18-hole course plays to 7,115 yards from the back tees—and with five sets of tees, it can be enjoyed by golfers of all skill levels. The renowned maintenance practices of Troon Golf assure championship conditions every day of the week. 17750 Old Coach Road, Poway, 858.451.8100

ISTOCKPHOTO.COM/SPC-HQ

Talk about sand traps and water hazards. San Diego has two of the biggest: the Anza-Borrego desert and the Pacific Ocean. Coastal cliffs and desert mountains set the scene for some of the best golf in the world. More than 90 courses are open to the public, and players of all levels can take a swing at links near the city center or at par-3 courses for that quick fix. One day on the greens will be all it takes to understand why San Diego County is truly a golfer’s paradise.

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riverwalk golf club Location, location, location. This is San Diego’s most convenient and centrally located golf club. The 27-hole course was redesigned by Ted Robinson Sr. and Jr., and features nearly 100 bunkers, splashy waterfalls and well-protected bentgrass greens. A night-lit driving range is open every day; call for times. 1150 Fashion Valley Road, San Diego, 619.296.4653

la costa resort and spa Measure your game against golfing’s elite at La Costa, the site of numerous PGA Tour events. Amid 400 acres in the coastal foothills of Carlsbad, La Costa features two 18-hole courses, a driving range, equipment rental, a prestigious Jim McLean Golf School and unique programs offered on-site by the U.S. Golf Fitness Association and the Chopra Center. The last four holes of the South Course are known as “the longest mile in golf.” 2100 Costa del Mar Road, Carlsbad, 800.854.5000

carmel mountain ranch country club Although not particularly scenic (some holes front Rancho Bernardo housing developments), it’s one of the county’s more demanding courses. Almost every hole is either uphill or down, with ravines, natural boulder formations and streams adding to the test. 14050 Carmel Ridge Road, San Diego, 858.487.9224

PARK HYATT aviara The only Arnold Palmer signature golf course in San Diego, Aviara winds through rolling valleys with ocean views. Named by Golf Digest and Golf magazines as one of the best resort courses in America, and by Condé Nast Traveler as one of the best in the world, the resort also welcomes non-guests to play. 7447 Batiquitos Drive, Carlsbad, 760.603.6900

18-hole executive course spread over some 425 acres. Also onsite is a golf school designed exclusively for women of all ages and skill levels, taught by LPGA professionals. 3007 Dehesa Road, El Cajon, 619.442.3425

SALT CREEK GOLF CLUB Carved through the foothills of Mount Miguel, this 280-acre layout is a links design by John Cook. It features three lakes, 78 bunkers and plenty of lush wetlands. The scenic course is surrounded by a wildlife refuge—not housing developments. Five sets of tees make it playable for all levels, measuring 6,889 yards from the back tees and 5,505 from the forward tees. 525 Hunte Parkway, Chula Vista, 619.482.4666

rancho bernardo inn Recently renovated after its original 1962 opening, this 18-hole championship course nestled into the northeastern part of San Diego County features two natural lakes, a driving range with grass or mat tees and a championship yardage of 6,631. The resort has hosted PGA and LPGA events and offers instruction and clinics by PGA pros. 17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive, Rancho Bernardo, 858.675.8470

THE CROSSINGS AT CARLSBAD Located about a mile from the ocean and 30 minutes from downtown San Diego, this 18-hole championship course is the city’s newest facility. As envisioned by architect Greg Nash, the course’s design is inspired by the protected wetlands and rugged canyons surrounding it. Five bridges (or crossings) link the course, which plays par 72 over 6,835 yards. The Crossings also features a lighted practice center, golf shop, walking trails and restaurants. 5800 The Crossings Drive, Carlsbad, 760.444.1800

sail ho golf club Built by A.G. Spalding, Sail Ho is one of the oldest courses in the country, dating back to the ‘20s. Originally known as the San Diego Country Club, the 1,023-yard, nine-hole course recently received a $3.3 million face-lift. 2960 Truxton Road, Liberty Station, Point Loma, 619.222.4653

BARONA CREEK GOLF club This par-72 course over 7,088 yards has received numerous accolades since its opening in 2001. Created by Gary Roger Baird Design, the course includes more than 100 bunkers and a series of lakes and ponds. It was also the host site for the 2007 Nationwide Tour Championships. 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Barona Valley Ranch Resort & Casino, Lakeside, 619.387.7018

coronado municipal golf course If you’re able to get on this 18-hole championship course, you may have difficulty keeping your eye on the ball: From the back nine, the views of the Coronado Bridge and the San Diego skyline across the bay can be beautifully distracting. 2000 Visalia Row, Coronado, 619.435.3121

sycuan resort Set amid rugged mountains and natural rock outcroppings, Sycuan Resort is a 25-minute drive east from downtown San Diego. There are two 18-hole championship courses and an

golf baja Can’t get a tee time, or just craving some post-links mariscos? Head to Baja California, where the crowds are scarce, the scenery is unbeatable and the price is right. These three courses are all within an hour’s drive of the border. Club Campestre de tijuana The 18-hole urban course at the Tijuana Country Club has an impressive pedigree: It was designed by world-class course architect Alister MacKenzie. Agua Caliente 11311, Tijuana, B.C., 888.217.1165 real del mar This coastal resort 15 minutes south of the border features a par-72, 18-hole course set among canyons; navigating the narrow fairways can be challenging—in a good way. KM 19.5 Tijuana-Ensenada Toll Road, Rosarito, B.C., 800.662.6180 bajamar They call this 27-hole, links-style championship course “the Pebble Beach of Baja” for its multiple cliffside holes; don’t miss Oceano No. 5, 185-yard par-3 that carries over a roiling cove. KM 77.5 Tijuana-Ensenada Toll Road, Ensenada, B.C, 888.311.6076.

Y F or tee times at these and other local courses, call San Diego Golf Reservations, 866.717.6552, or Showtime Golf, 888.806.7667.

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Dining social bar atmosphere. L, D (daily). 675 W. Beech St., Little Italy, 619.269.2202. $$ Map W22

Guidelines

Restaurants are listed by city on page 48. Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 60–63. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index American ...............................35 Breakfast ................................36 Brewpubs...............................37 California Cuisine ...............37 Chinese...................................39 Desserts .................................39 Eclectic/Fusion....................39 French ....................................40

International ..........................41 Italian ...................................... 42 Japanese ............................... 43 Mexican/Southwestern ..44 Seafood .............................. 45 Steak.................................... 46 Thai .......................................47 Wine Bars ...........................47

American the 3rd corner wine shoP & Bistro Combining a casual French-American bistro with a retail wine shop, these popular spots give foodies a wealth of pairing options at any budget. L, D (daily till 1 am; closed M in O.B.). 2265 Bacon St., Ocean Beach, 619.223.2700. Map J8; 897 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.942.2104. $$ Map W22 anthology Swank Little Italy three-story supper club with Todd Allison’s New American menu and live jazz, blues or rock music nightly. D (M-Sa). 1337 India St., Little Italy, 619.595.0300. $$ Map P15 aVenue 5 Stylish, comfortable neighborhood eatery serves seasonal French-American cuisine within walking distance of Balboa Park museums and theaters. L (T-F), D (T-Su), Br (Su). 2760 Fifth Ave. #100, Bankers Hill, 619.542.0394. $$$ Map O16 Bankers hill Bar and restaurant Take a seat in one of the mismatched antique chairs decorating this casual spot with an urban-industrial vibe. Chef Carl Schroeder’s top-notch seasonal menu includes his signature pork tacos and a great burger. D (nightly). 2202 Fourth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.231.0222. $$ Map O16 Bertrand at Mister a’s Incredible 12th-floor views complemented by fresh, seasonal ingredients. Appetizers range from mac ‘n’ cheese to pan-seared scallops, augmented by an outstanding wine list. L (M–F), D (nightly). 2550 Fifth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.239.1377. $$$ Map O16 Brockton Villa An 1894 cottage with spectacular ocean view. Try the Coast Toast, a French toast soufflé from the award-wining breakfast menu. B, L (daily); D (T-Su). 1235 Coast Blvd., La Jolla, 858.454.7393. $$ Map W19 BuB’s at the BallPark Steps from Petco Park, this good-time sports bar, famous for its peanut-shellcovered floor, features a menu of pub favorites (salads, sammies, wings, etc.) plus an on-site mini-basketball court, shuffleboard and more. L, D (daily). 715 J St., East Village, 619.546.0815. $$ Map R16 cardiff chart house Seafood and steakhouse has picturesque coastline location with floor-to-ceiling windows. Indulge in hot chocolate lava cake for dessert. L (W–Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2588 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Cardiff-by-the-Sea, 760.436.4044. $$$ Map W22 craft + coMMerce Gastropub-inspired food like roasted bone marrow, fried pickles and bacon cracker jacks, plus handcrafted cocktails, local beers and a lively,

croce’s restaurant & Jazz Bar Awardwinning cuisine includes seafood, pasta, poultry, lamb and beef. Run by musician Jim Croce’s widow, Ingrid, the centrally located downtown venue pays tribute to its namesake with live music nightly. B, L (Sa-Su); D (nightly). 802 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4355. $$$ Map Q16 dick’s last resort Buckets of ribs, catfish and crab legs served by a purposefully irreverent waitstaff, plus 66 beers and live music nightly (Th-Sa). L, D (daily). 345 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.231.9100. $$ Map Q16 house of Blues Dan Aykroyd’s nightclub and restaurant features live music nightly in the basement venue and Southern cuisine (voodoo shrimp, rosemary cornbread, baby-back ribs) in the upstairs restaurant. Sidewalk café dining. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1055 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.299.2583. $$ Map Q16 JiMMy’s faMous aMerican taVern Spicy California cheeseburgers and specialty cocktails served in a fun, casual bayside venue; outdoor patio offers great marina views. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 4990 N. Harbor Drive, Point Loma, 619.226.2103. $$ Map K9 kensington grill Hip, upscale neighborhood dining spot features comfort classics like pork ribs, gourmet tater tots and shrimp waffles. Don’t miss the “hog bar,” a selection of bacony delights. D (nightly). 4055 Adams Ave., Kensington, 619.281.4014. $$$ Map I12 knotty Barrel Local craft beers elevate this spot a step above your average beer bar. On the menu find fried pickles, bison burgers, fish ‘n’ chips and the house specialty: deep-fried Twinkies. L, D (daily), Br (SaSu). 844 Market St., East Village, 619.269.7156. $$ Map Q17 the lincoln rooM Honest Abe inspires this downtown social club, down to the log cabin décor and old-fashioned whisky cocktails. But Chef Chris Walsh’s modern cuisine is a far cry from frontier food. L, D (daily). 901 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.696.8888. $$ Map Q16 neighBorhood This gastropub is a bit snobbish about its condiments (you’ll find no ketchup here), but makes up for it with tasty gourmet burgers, hand-cut sweet potato fries and 27 craft brews. L, D (daily). 777 G St., East Village, 619.446.0002. $ Map Q16 ocean house of carlsBad Village Lovely spot in a Victorian mansion comes alive nightly with live entertainment and outside dining. Serving seafood, steak and pasta. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 300 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.729.4131. $$ Map T22 quality social Billed as “a bar, with food,” this dive-bar-gone-upscale features booze-friendly eats like pork belly BLT and beet-and-burrata salad. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 789 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.501.7675. $$ Map Q16 the red door Cozy, modern bistro with cottagelike interior features a new farm-to-table menu using ingredients grown in the owner’s garden. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 741 W. Washington St., Mission Hills, 619.295.6000. $$$ Map N16 r gang eatery Top Chef alum Rich Sweeney runs this colorful, clubhouse-like comfort-food spot with a lively open-air patio. Favorites include smoked gouda mac ‘n’ cheese, Portobello fries and tater tots. L (T-Th), D (T-Su), Br (F-Su). 3683 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.677.2845. $$ Map N16

Mangia!

With more than a dozen bistros, osterias and trattorias, Little Italy’s India Street certainly didn’t need another Italian restaurant. So what was James Beard Restaurateur of the Year semi-finalist Scott Harris thinking—that he could just sweep in from Chicago, set up shop in the middle of all this competition and have a hit on his hands? Against the odds, that’s just what happened with Davanti Enoteca. Early buzz indicates the locals have taken kindly to Harris’ take on Italian, with shareable plates of mascarpone polenta topped with a daily-changing ragu, creative bruschetta, rustic pizzas and a wine list heavy on California selections. You’ll find the best seats on the cozy back patio. L, D (daily). 1655 India St., Little Italy, 619.237.9606

San Diego Restaurant Week offers a chance to sample more than 180 local restaurants as they offer three-course meals for $20, $30 or $40, Jan. 15-20. p. 49

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Dining searsucker At this always-hopping Gaslamp hotspot, Top Chef finalist Brian Malarkey crafts a bold, flavorful menu that ranges from a mammoth 32-oz. rib eye to mini appetizer bites. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Su). 611 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.7327. $$$ Map Q16 Solace & the Moonlight Lounge Chef Matt Gordon of Urban Solace expands his upscale-comfortfood empire to North County, this time with an emphasis on seafood. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 25 East E St., Encinitas, 760.753.2433. $$$ Map W22 TRACTOR ROOM This dimly lit spot is decked out in hunting lodge chic, with a game-heavy menu that includes crispy elk ravioli and venison meatloaf, plus killer craft cocktails. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 3687 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.543.1007. $$ Map N16 URBAN SOLACE Neighborhood joint in up-and-coming North Park features updated New American comfort cuisine and an intriguing wine, craft beer and cocktail list. Locals love the warm cheese biscuits and Sunday bluegrass brunch. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 3823 30th St., North Park, 619.295.6464. $$ Map N17

Breakfast beach grass cafe A breezy and casually chic eatery by the beach serves up a health-conscious menu of granola, flapjacks, salads and more. B, L (daily). 159 S. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.748.7770. $$ Map X22 Brian’s 24 Old-school clubby spot features a mahogany bar, crystal chandelier and 24-hour dining (midnight brunch, anyone?). Burgers, steaks, pasta and chicken and waffles, too. B, L, D (daily). 828 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp Quarter, 619.702.8410. $$ Map Q16 CAFÉ 222 Locals line up in droves for Cafe 222’s quirky American cuisine and whimsical décor. Popular menu items include the peanut butter waffle with bananas at breakfast; tuna melts, salads and more at lunch. B, L (daily). 222 Island Ave., downtown, 619.236.9902. $ Map R15 CAFÉ ON PARK From pancakes and cereal to sandwiches and pasta, this personality-filled familyfriendly space serves up huge portions and eclectic combinations. B, L (daily). 3831 Park Blvd., Hillcrest, 619.293.7275. $ Map N18 The Cottage Housed in a charming turn-of-thecentury home complete with garden patio, the Cottage is hugely popular for breakfast (don’t miss the coffee cake). Sammies and burgers at lunch. B, L (daily). 7702 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.8409. $$ Map W19 The crown room Often voted best Sunday brunch in town, this lavish buffet is set in an architecturally stunning dining room at the Hotel del Coronado. Reservations are required. Br (Su). 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.8490. $$$$ Map L10 HASH HOUSE A GO GO Huge portions of “twisted farm food” that will make your eyes bulge: egg scrambles and more arrive on massive platters, speared with a giant rosemary branch. Expect a long wait at weekend brunch. B, L (daily); D (T-Su). 3628 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.298.4646. $$ Map N16 IsABEL’S CANTINA A cool, casual spot near the beach serves health-conscious, bold-flavored Latin and Asianinfluenced fare, from tamales to udon noodles. B, L, D (daily). 966 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858.272.8400. $$ Map H7 The Mission This super-popular mini-chain of vegetarian-friendly spots is known for pancakes, French toast, smoothies, breakfast burritos, baked goods and eclectic food. B, L (daily). 3795 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach,

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Dining 858.488.9060, Map I7; 2801 University Ave., North Park, 619.220.8992, Map N17; 1250 J St., East Village, 619.232.7662. $ Map Q17 richard walker’s pancake house Popular downtown spot with a huge selection of mouth-watering flapjacks and other breakfast and lunch fare. Favorites include the baked apple pancake. B, L (daily). 520 Front St., downtown, 619.231.7777. $ Map Q15

Brewpubs Blind Lady Ale House This bicyclist-friendly uptown spot is a local favorite thanks to its gourmet pizzas, handcrafted organic salads and vast beer selection. There’s even a mini-brewery in the back. L (F-Su), D (T-Su). 3416 Adams Ave., Normal Heights, 619.255.2491. $$ Map I12 CORONADO BREWING COMPANY Fresh from the local microbrewery, the diverse beer selection complements the steaks, seafood, pizzas and pastas in this casual family environment. L, D (daily). 170 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.4452. $$ Map L11 Pizza Port A huge hit with locals, Pizza Port’s three locations deliver quirkily named pies, award-winning private-label beers and a fun, family-friendly environment just blocks from the beach. L, D (daily). 135 N. Highway 101, Solana Beach, 858.481.7332, Map X22; 571 Carlsbad Village Drive, Carlsbad, 760.720.7007, Map T22; 1956 Bacon St., Ocean Beach, 619.224.4700. $$ Map W22 San diego Beer Company Downtown’s newest brewery and sports bar also has eats like seared ahi, woodfired pizzas and numerous finger appetizers to share. L,D (daily). 603 Broadway, Gaslamp, 619.398.0707. $$ Map Q16 Stone Brewing Company Home of Arrogant Bastard Ale, Stone’s massive brewery comes complete with scenic gardens and a restaurant serving eclectic, beer-friendly food inspired by cuisines of the world, like wild boar ribs and duck tacos. L, D (daily). 1999 Citricado Parkway, Escondido, 760.471.4999. $$$ Map C3 yard house World’s largest selection of draft beer with American fusion cuisine including orange-peel chicken and pan-seared ahi. Extensive children’s menu, late-night dining, 152 beers on tap. L, D (daily). 1023 Fourth Ave., downtown, 619.233.9273. $$ Map P16

California Cuisine 1500 OCEAN Housemade pastas and adventurous starters with bold, inventive flavors define this special-occasion spot on Coronado, complete with intimate ocean-view terrace, beach cabanas and a wine cellar. D (T-Sa). Hotel del Coronado, 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.8490. $$$$ Map L10 A.R. VALENTIEN Named for an Impressionist painter whose canvases adorn the walls of this Craftsman-style structure, this celebrated spot features seasonal ingredients fresh from the farm, with Chef Jeff Jackson at the helm. B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.777.6635. $$$ Map S19 Arterra A favorite power-lunch spot, Arterra’s seasonal menu makes good use of locally sourced ingredients in dishes like braised beef short ribs. Sushi bar and outdoor lounge with fire pits and cabanas, too. B (daily), L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 11966 El Camino Real, Del Mar, 858.369.6032. $$$ Map X22 bluefire grill La Costa Resort’s stylish destination dining spot serves coastal delicacies and seasonal vegetables. Elegant setting with indoor waterfall and outdoor

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Dining fire pits. D (daily). 2100 Costa del Mar Road, Carlsbad, 760.929.6346. $$$ Map T22 doBson’s Power-lunch spot has great California cuisine with a touch of Italian, French, Spanish and Asian, plus seafood specialties, including to-die-for mussel bisque with puffed pastry. L (M–F), D (M–Sa). 956 Broadway Circle, downtown, 619.231.6771. $$$ Map Q15 flaVor del Mar Contemporary California coastal cuisine in an airy, ocean-view space. L, D (daily); Br (SaSu). 1555 Camino Del Mar, Del Mar, 858.755.3663. $$$ Map X22 george’s at the coVe La Jolla institution comprises three levels (from elegant to casual), all with picture-perfect views. Award-winning Chef Trey Foshee creates fresh seafood, steak and regional cuisine. L, D (daily). 1250 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.4244. $$$$ Map W19 grant grill Chef Mark Kropczynski creates dishes with ingredients native to the region—jumbo diver scallops are a signature dish—while Jeff Josenhans crafts mixology magic behind the bar, all inside the historic U.S. Grant Hotel. B, L, D (daily). 326 Broadway, downtown, 619.744.2077. $$$$ Map Q16 JsiX Modern restaurant in Hotel Solamar features seasonal foods inspired by the coastline and area farms, lots of handcrafted elements and wines from Washington to Baja. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 616 J St., Gaslamp, 619.531.8744. $$$ Map Q16 Jrdn Hip restaurant at Tower 23 Hotel has steak and seafood dishes, as well as a full raw bar. Patio offers boardwalk and ocean views and great people-watching. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 723 Felspar St., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736. $$$ Map H7 kitchen 1540 Farm-to-table is the concept at this sustainability-minded eatery at L’Auberge Del Mar hotel, featuring cured meats, gourmet cheeses, seafood and pasta dishes and more. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1540 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.793.6460. $$$ Map X22 the linkery Named one of the best farm-to-table restaurants in the U.S. for its near-exclusive use of local, seasonal ingredients, the Linkery makes nearly everything in-house, including its gourmet sausages. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 3794 30th St., North Park, 619.255.8778. $$ Map J12 Market restaurant + Bar Chef Carl Schroeder crafts modern cuisine using local produce, handmade cheeses and locally raised meat. Highlights include the blue cheese souffle, market veggie tasting and desserts like Meyer lemon-cream crepes. D (nightly). 3702 Via de la Valle, Del Mar, 858.523.0007. $$$ Map X22 Mistral Acclaimed Chef Patrick Ponsaty makes unique French/Italian dishes using farm-fresh ingredients and herbs grown in the hotel’s on-site garden. D (T-Sa). 4000 Coronado Bay Road, Loews Coronado Bay Resort, Coronado, 619.424.4000. $$$ Map L11 nine-ten At this intimate and sophisticated restaurant, award-winning Chef Jason Knibb creates evolving California cuisine made with local and organic ingredients. The Jamaican jerk pork belly appetizer and the braised short rib entree are highlights. B, L, D (daily). 910 Prospect St., Grande Colonial Hotel, La Jolla, 858.964.5400. $$ Map V19 sky rooM Elegant dining room features contemporary California cuisine atop a classic hotel with fantastic scenic views. More than 1,000 wines to choose from. D (W-Su). 1132 Prospect St., La Valencia Hotel, La Jolla, 858.454.0771. $$$$ Map W19 starlite Dazzling design complements fresh, sustainably farmed food and boutique cocktails at this ultra-hip

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Dining restaurant/bar. Open for dinner late night; don’t miss the burger on brioche washed down with the signature Starlite Mule. D (nightly), Br (Su). 21+. 3175 India St., Midtown/Little Italy, 619.358.9766. $$$ Map O15 whisknladle Chef Ryan Johnson uses local organic ingredients in back-to-basics dishes like roasted bone marrow and chorizo-date fritters. Outdoor patio provides ideal opportunity for people-watching. L, D (daily); Br (SaSu). 1044 Wall St., La Jolla, 858.551.7575. $$ Map W19

Chinese DEL MAR RENDEZVOUS Upscale Chinese bistro featuring entrées like Mongolian rack of lamb and steak Shangri-La, plus handmade dumplings and sauces made in-house. L (M-Sa), D (nightly). 1555 Camino del Mar #102, Del Mar, 858.755.2669. $$ Map X22 JASMINE SEAFOOD RESTAURANT Popular for dim sum, this casual spot also serves authentic Hong Kongstyle seafood, duck and barbecue entrées at dinner. L, D (daily). 4609 Convoy St., Kearny Mesa, 858.268.0888. $$ Map G1 Panda inn A rare sit-down dining experience at Horton Plaza mall, Panda Inn serves Mandarin-style dishes like tea-smoked duck and Phoenix chicken, with whitechocolate-covered fortune cookies at the end of the meal. L (M-F), D (daily). 506 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.233.7800. $$ Map Q16 RED PEARL KITCHEN Pan-Asian cuisine served in a hip, contemporary bar setting decked out with dark lacquered tones contrasted with vibrant colors and textures. Favorite dishes include hearts of palm salad, spicy tuna tartare, crispy tofu and Alaskan halibut. D (nightly). 440 J St., Gaslamp, 619.231.1100. $$ Map R16

Desserts CUPS Retro-styled organic cupcake lounge features vegan and gluten-free options plus cheekily named standards like the Elvis (chocolate cake with banana cream filling and peanut buttercream). Open daily. 7857 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.459.2877. $ Map W19 EXTRAORDINARY DESSERTS Topped with edible flowers and gold flakes, Karen Krasne’s stunning tarts, cakes and other treats are truly extraordinary. A must-try. Open daily. 1430 Union St., Little Italy, 619.294.7001, Map P16; 2929 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.294.2132. $$ Map O16 GHIRARDELLI SODA FOUNTAIN A staple in the Gaslamp, this old-timey soda shop serves up rich sundaes, shakes and malts that will take you back to childhood. Open daily. 643 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.2449. $ Map Q16 MICHELE COULON DESSERTIER A longtime favorite among La Jolla locals, Coulon whips up tortes, homemade jams, breads and quiches using local organic products. (M-Sa). 7556-D Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.5098. $ Map W19

Eclectic/Fusion Bali hai Tiki oasis has a Polynesian menu by Chef Chris Powell, featuring Hawaiian-style blackened ahi tuna and wok-fried whole striped bass, plus fabulous bay views. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2230 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.222.1181. $$$ Map K9 BISTRO D’ASIA Innovative blending of flavors and ingredients from Beijing, Bangkok and Saigon in dishes like whole Peking duck and “dancing” scallops. Sushi, too: the citrus spicy scallop roll is a happy-hour staple. L, D (daily). 1301 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.6677. $$ Map L10

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Dining burlap This “Asian cowboy” eatery’s tagline is “Where the West Eats Meat.” Bold flavors and even bolder décor from Thomas Schoos define this hoppin’ spot from celebri-chef Brian Malarkey. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 12995 El Camino Real #21, Del Mar, 858.369.5700. $$$ Map X22 INDIGO GRILL Award-winning Chef Deborah Scott explores her love of the spicy and sweet in her twist on Southwestern cuisine. Try her famous Indian corn pudding; Jiffy cornbread mix never tasted so decadent. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1536 India St., Little Italy, 619.234.6802. $$ Map P15 Roppongi Cutting-edge eatery with spectacular décor, including a wall-sized aquarium and outdoor fireplace. Chef Stephen Window’s list of Pacific Rim–style tapas is as extensive as it is excellent. L, D (daily). 875 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.5252. $$$ Map W19

French ADDISON Chef William Bradley creates deliriously tasty, elegant dishes from local ingredients with French influences at this ultra-fine restaurant at the Grand Del Mar. D (T-Sa). 5200 Grand Del Mar Way, Del Mar, 858.314.1900. $$$$ Map X22 El Bizcocho Chef Nicolas Bour creates updated elegant classics with a molecular twist, accompanied by a 1,600-label wine list. It’s a fine-dining atmosphere, so be sure to dress the part. D (T–Sa), Br (Su). 17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive, Rancho Bernardo Inn, Rancho Bernardo, 858.675.8550. $$$$ Map C3 CAFé CHLOE This locals’ favorite offers an afternoon “urban tea” (booking required) and bistro cuisine, such as smoked trout salad, cheese plates and moules frites in a casually elegant downtown setting, complete with small sidewalk patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 721 Ninth Ave., East Village, 619.232.3242. $$ Map Q17 Chez Loma Classic romantic dining in a historic Victorian house. Continental/Nouvelle French cuisine with seafood specialties like roasted salmon fillet with a horseradish crust. D (T-Su). 1132 Loma Ave., Coronado, 619.435.0661. $$$ Map L10 FARM HOUSE CAFÉ At this popular neighborhood spot, Chef Olivier Bioteau serves up rustic French cuisine (like pain perdu with lavender honey) in a cozy and casual setting; tiny patio available, too. D (T-Su); Br (Su). 2121 Adams Ave., University Heights, 619.269.9662. $$$ Map I12 Marine Room Outstanding nouveau French food like macadamia-pesto-crusted salmon and artisan cheeses by Chef Bernard Guillas in an unparalleled oceanfront location (at high tide, waves can reach the windows!). D (nightly). 2000 Spindrift Drive, La Jolla, 858.459.7222. $$$$ Map W20 Mille Fleurs This über-romantic restaurant is a classic date spot in remote, exclusive Rancho Santa Fe. The cuisine is creative, updated French/California (think: escargot and whole dover sole meunière). L (T–F), D (nightly). 6009 Paseo Delicias, Rancho Santa Fe, 858.756.3085. $$$$ Map W23 Pamplemousse Grille Former New York Chef Jeffrey Strauss brings an imaginative flair to his country French–influenced American menu in a quirky, casually elegant setting near the racetrack. L (F), D (nightly). 514 Via de la Valle, Solana Beach, 858.792.9090. $$$ Map W22 LE PASSAGE French comfort food prepared with California-style touches and fine wines in a quaint and intimate bistro setting. L (T–Sa), D (T-Su). 2961 State St., Carlsbad, 760.729.7097. $$ Map T22

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Dining Tapenade Chef Jean-Michel Diot’s traditional preparations incorporate Mediterranean flavors from regions beyond France. Decadent and savory desserts as well as vegetarian options. L (T–F), D (nightly). 7612 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.7500. $$$ Map W19 VincenT’s Locals’ favorite is a great start to an evening of entertainment at nearby California Center for the Arts. Creative update of classic French cuisine. L (T–F), D (T–Sa). 113 W. Grand Ave., Escondido, 760.745.3835. $$ Map C3

International alchemy American comfort food with an international twist, utilizing regional ingredients and served in a low-key (but sometimes noisy) neighborhood spot. Bacon-infused vodka in the Hail Mary is a highlight at brunch. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1503 30th St., South Park, 619.255.0616. $$ Map K12 bayu’s auThenTic eThiopian cuisine Find spiced meats, hearty vegetable dishes, injera bread and a popular lunch buffet at this vegetarian-friendly spot in Hillcrest. L, D (daily). 530 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.269.6142. $$ Map N16 berTa’s laTin american Latin American specialties can be sampled via generously apportioned tapas in this little cottage in Old Town. Entrées such as Brazilian vatapá should not be missed. L, D (T–Su). 3928 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.295.2343. $$ Map N13 cafe seVilla Recently reopened in a new Gaslamp location, Sevilla still serves up the same Spanish tapas, seafood specialties, flamenco and salsa lessons that have made it a longtime local favorite. D (nightly). 353 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.5979 $$ Map R16 chopahn Enjoy authentic Afghan cuisine including Aushak (steamed dumpling filled with leek and onion) and an array of California wines in a serene setting just off the Gaslamp’s crowded main drag. D (nightly). 750 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.236.9236. $$$ Map R16 cosTa braVa Coastal eatery serves Spain’s greatest hits, from jamón iberico to paella to tapas—and don’t forget the sangria. Live music offered throughout the week. L, D (daily). 1653 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, 858.273.1218. $$ Map H8 mediTerranean room Chef Lance Repp’s menu features flavors from across the Mediterranean, including North Africa and Turkey, in dishes like lemon roasted chicken and confit of Moroccan-spiced duck. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). La Valencia Hotel, 1132 Prospect Ave., La Jolla, 858.551.3765. $$$ Map W19 monsoon Authentic Northern Indian cuisine in sophisticated environment. Bounteous lunch buffet; entrées include Bangalore masala and lamb curry. Signature cocktails and wines by the glass. L, D (daily). 729 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.5555. $$ Map Q16 The prado The Prado’s dramatic garden patio is the perfect setting for a drink or a bite after a long day of sightseeing in Balboa Park. The eclectic American menu is spiked with Latin/Italian flair. L (daily), D (T-Su). 1549 El Prado, House of Hospitality, Balboa Park, 619.557.9441. $$ Map O17 proper gasTropub Chef Sean Magee serves a mix of British and American dishes in a festive pub atmosphere just an errant fly ball’s distance from Petco Park. L (Th-Su), D (Th-M), Br (Sa-Su). 795 J St., East Village, 619.255.7520. $$ Map R16 el q’ero A rare Peruvian restaurant in North County, featuring regional classics such as lomo saltado and the signature beverage, chicha morada, made from purple corn. L (T-Sa), D (M-Sa). 564 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.753.9050. $$ Map V22

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Dining REI DO GADO Meat-lovers, rejoice. This Brazilianstyle steakhouse serves succulent beef and pork cooked over a mesquite fire, brought tableside on skewers until you tell them to stop. L, D (daily). 939 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.8464. $$ Map Q16 royal india Palatial Gaslamp spot features Northern Indian specialties, bountiful vegetarian options and 30+ different curries. Buffet L (daily), D (nightly). 329 Market St., Gaslamp, 619.269.9999. $$ Map R16

Italian acqua al 2 Sister restaurant to a like-named establishment in Florence, Italy, this spot (a Padres player favorite) serves fresh Tuscan fare in a stylish setting. Pastas, steaks and sandwiches for lunch. L (M–F), D (nightly). 322 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.230.0382. $$ Map Q16 ARRIVEDERCI Charming restaurant with sidewalk seating draws loads of locals for its gnocchi with pesto cream and sun-dried tomato sauce. Sandwiches, pizzas and wines also available. L, D (daily). 3845 Fourth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.299.6282. $$ Map N16 ASTI Northern Italian with a bistro feel, fresh seafood and steak specialties. Bustling patio dining area makes for great people-watching. L, D (daily). 728 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.8844. $$ Map Q16 BeNCOTTO Italian for “well-cooked,” this slick, airy new spot in the modern Q Building earns raves for simple but well-executed create-your-own pasta dishes and other Italian specialities. L, D (T-Su). 750 W. Fir St., Little Italy, 619.450.4786. $$ Map P15 Bice Milanese authenticity from Chef Mario Cassineri in the heart of downtown; don’t miss the cheese and salumi bar. Great cocktails, too. D (nightly). 425 Island Ave., Gaslamp, 619.239.BICE. $$$ Map Q16

• • • • • • •

“BEST THAI” 2011/2010/2009 - San Diego Magazine Exceptional wine list Exotic ambience Affordable cuisine Private/Business parties welcome Happy hour daily Free delivery with $25 min.

Lotus Thai Downtown 906 Market St. 619-595-0115 Hillcrest 3761-63 Sixth Ave. 619-299-8272

www.lotusthaisd.com

25 East E Street, Encinitas p: 760.753.2433 www.eatatsolace.com

Buca di Beppo Family-style platters of ravioli al pomodoro or spaghetti and meatballs served up in a kitschy and friendly atmosphere. L, D (daily). 705 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.7272. $$ Map Q16 Cucina urbana A hit since the day it opened, this chic neighborhood hotspot features housemade pastas, oven-baked pizzas and more Italian farm-to-table cuisine. Wash it down with a sophisticated cocktail or a selection from the on-site retail wine shop. L (T-F), D (nightly). 505 Laurel St., Bankers Hill, 619.239.2222. $$ Map O16 Il Fornaio Authentic Italian recipes including excellent pasta, pizza and regional specialties paired with handmade breads. Coronado location has great bay views. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.755.8876, Map X22; 1333 First St., Coronado, 619.437.4911. $$ Map L10 il postino Spacious Italian spot comes complete with a pizza oven and full bar. The rack of lamb with rosemary and margherita pizza are among menu favorites. L, D (daily). 3955 30th St., North Park, 619.325.0809. $$ Map N17 jACK & GIULIO’S Known for its scampi and its spaghetti and meatballs, this Old Town Italian spot is a local favorite. Excellent wines for pairing. D (nightly). 2391 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.294.2074. $$ Map N14 THE OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY Italian comfort food served in a historic building with upstairs billiard room and loft bar. Family-friendly with large portions. L, D (daily). 275 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4323. $$ Map R16 Old Venice Local favorite boasts easy-going, candlelit atmosphere and Italian cuisine with Mediterranean

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CafeCoyote_FA11v4.pdf

7/25/11

2:54 PM

Dining GOLD MEDALLION AWARD 2011

VOTED BEST MEXICAN

California Restaurant Association, San Diego

flavors. Enjoy dishes like the spicy Roma shrimp and veal picatta. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 2910 Cañon St., Point Loma, 619.222.5888. $$ Map K8 osteria PaneVino Colorful ceramics and marble set the Italian feel for authentic Tuscan cuisine in a classic sidewalk café style; pair your pasta with a domestic or Italian wine. L, D (daily). 722 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.595.7959. $$ Map Q16 Piatti Delicious pastas (ravioli al limone) and other Italian faves near the ocean in La Jolla Shores. The setting is elegant yet family-friendly, with a quaint outdoor patio. L, D (daily); Br (Sa–Su). 2182 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla, 858.454.1589. $$ Map V20 Po Pazzo Italian for “a little crazy,” the menu at this Little Italy spot goes way beyond pasta, to steaks, seafood, veal and more. L, D (daily). 1917 India St., Little Italy, 619.238.1917. $$$ Map P15 trattoria fantastica Popular eatery serving Sicilian fare in a casual setting, with a charming patio in the back. Specialties include wood-fired pizza and red wine osso bucco. B, L, D (daily). 1735 India St., Little Italy, 619.234.1735. $$ Map P15

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner Daily Traditional Mexican Food Serving in the Heart of Historic Old Town 2461 San Diego Avenue • 619.291.4695 • www.cafecoyoteoldtown.com

H ot F ood, C old B eer . . . G et in H ere !

trattoria i trulli Superb pasta and sauces in a rustic setting with more than 100 wines to choose from. The créme brûlée shouldn’t be missed. L, D (daily). 830 #100 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.943.6800. $$ Map V22 ViVace Marvelous Northern Italian cuisine with a California twist made fresh using only organic ingredients at this gorgeous restaurant at the Park Hyatt Aviara Resort. D (M-Sa). 7100 Four Seasons Point, Carlsbad, 760.603.6999. $$$ Map U22 Vigilucci’s ristorante Italian favorites plus Prime steaks, fresh seafood and savory veal, coupled with elegant décor, cozy piano bar and ocean views. L, D (daily). 1300 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.522.0946, Map L10; 2943 State St., Carlsbad, 760.434.2500, Map T22; 505 S. Coast Hwy. 101, Encinitas, 760.942.7332. $$$ Map V22

Japanese cafe JaPengo Bustling atmosphere attracts a hip after-work crowd to this upscale spot specializing in artistic sushi and cocktails. L (M–F), D (nightly). 8960 University Center Lane, La Jolla/Golden Triangle, 858.450.3355. $$ Map T21 harney sushi Find award-winning sushi with a molecular gastronomy twist at this groovy local minichain, where live DJs spin nightly. L (M-F), D (nightly). 3964 Harney St., Old Town, 619.295.3272, Map J10; 301 Mission Ave., Oceanside, 760.967.1820. $$ Map S22

Lunch / dinner / sunday brunch Spicy Deviled Eggs Chili Cheese Fries, Onion Rings – Proprietary 10 oz. Burgers – • Jimmy Burger • The Cowboy Fish & Chips, Fried Chicken Cajun Shellfish Boil Braised Short Ribs

619.226.2103

happy hour 3 for 3

Monday - Friday, 3pm-6 pm $3

- draft beers - well drinks $3 - select wines Plus $3 off appetizers $3

www. J - F a t . com

A M E R i C A ’ S C u P H A R B O R - 4990 N. HARBOR DRivE next to point loma sportfishing

noBu After conquering L.A., New York, Miami, London and Vegas, celeb Chef Nobu Matsuhisa brings his brand to the Hard Rock Hotel. The miso black cod is a house specialty. D (nightly). 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.814.4124. $$$ Map Q16 ra sushi A hip sushi bar that also features a creative menu of Japanese fusion dishes. Lively bar has Asianthemed cocktails and flat-screen TVs. L, D (daily). 474 Broadway, downtown, 619.321.0021. $$ Map Q16 sushi on the rock This raucous sushi bar is ideal for the fun-seeker who appreciates rock music and a high energy atmosphere with creative rolls and fresh catch. L, D (daily). 1025 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.3208. $$ Map W19 taka Hip, upscale sushi bar with inventive Asian fusion dishes like miso black cod and oysters dynamite on and off the menu. D (nightly). 555 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.338.0555. $$ Map Q16

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Dining zenbu Innovative sushi rolls and sashimi crafted from line-caught fish brought in by the owner’s personal fleet of fishing boats. Ask the staff about special offthe-menu rolls. D (nightly). 7660 Fay Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.4540, Map W19; 2003 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff, 760.633.2223. $$$ Map W22

Mexican/Southwestern El Agave No mere burrito factory here: this is upscale, authentic Mexico City-style cuisine in exotic dishes like cuitlacoche tlacoyo on blue corn tortilla. There are also some 2,000 tequilas available to sample. L, D (daily). 2304 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.220.0692. $$ Map M14 ALFONSO’S A La Jolla institution since 1971, Alfonso’s prime location offers great people-watching from the sidewalk terrace. Family recipes include carne asada Alfonso. L, D (daily). 1251 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.2232. $$ Map V19 Barrio Star Decked out in colorful, Día-de-losMuertos-inspired décor, Isabel Cruz’s latest restaurant serves Mexican soul food with local, sustainable ingredients in dishes like diablo chicken and handmade tamales. B, L, D (daily). 2706 Fifth Ave., Bankers Hill, 619.501.7827. $$ Map O16 cafe coyote South-of-the-border classics in a lively setting right in the center of Old Town. Choose from more than 100 tequilas in your margarita to wash down an order of enchiladas suizas. B, L, D (daily). 2461 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.291.4695. $$ Map M14 Candelas Find tequila prawns flambé over ahi tuna (but no burritos) at this romantic nouvelle Mexican spot with breathtaking views of San Diego’s skyline. D (nightly) at both locations; additional Br (Su), L (M-F) in Coronado only. 416 Third Ave., downtown, 619.702.4455, Map R16; 1201 First St. #115, Coronado, 619.435.4900. $$$ Map L10 CASA GUADALAJARA Talavera tiles, folk art, a garden patio and a 200-year-old pepper tree define the setting; cuisine includes regional dishes like chicken and mango quesadilla and tequila-lime shrimp. L, D (daily). 4105 Taylor St., Old Town, 619.295.5111. $$ Map N13 La Fiesta Nice blend of authentic and California-style Mexican dishes like lobster quesadilla and Mazatlan shrimp in a casual, colorful setting centrally located in the heart of downtown. L, D daily; Br (Sa-Su). 628 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.4242. $$ Map Q16 En Fuego A Mexican restaurant with a lively bar scene, En Fuego specializes in traditional Mexican food like empanadas, tamales and seafood specialties such as mango salsa tilapia. Sip on specialty mojitos and margaritas of all flavors. L, D (daily). 1342 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.6551. $$ Map X22 Miguel’s Cocina This family-owned restaurant chain dates back to 1982. Each location has its own breezy vibe, but all serve Miguel’s seriously addictive queso dip. L, D (daily); Br (Su, also Sa on Coronado). 2912 Shelter Island Drive, 619.224.2401, Map K9; 1351 Orange Ave., Coro nado, 619.437.4237, Map L10; 2444 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.298.9840, $$ Map N13 Old Town Mexican Cafe This Old Town staple is famous for its handmade tortillas, which you can see being made fresh daily through the restaurant’s front window. A festive atmosphere awaits inside. B, L, D (daily). 2489 San Diego Ave., Old Town, 619.297.4330. $ Map N13 el take it easy No burritos at this cool, urban Tijuana-inspired “gastrocantina.” Instead try the house-cured country ham or rabbit cazuela. World-class craft beers and boutique wines, too. D (nightly), L (F-Su). 3926 30th St., North Park. 619.291.1859. $$ Map J12

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Dining

SPECTACULAR WATERFRONT DINING Enjoy breathtaking breathtaking views views Enjoy of the the coastline coastline while while you you of dine on on fresh fresh fish fish specialties, specialties, dine award-winning prime prime rib rib and and award-winning decadent desserts. desserts. decadent Chart House House is is your your place place Chart for outstanding outstanding cuisine cuisine and and for impeccable service. service. impeccable

el Vitral Serving creative, authentic Mexican fare, signature margaritas (try the Cuco-Yaya) and more than 250 tequilas in an airy converted warehouse space near the ballpark. Br (Sa-Su); D (nightly). 815 J St., East Village, 619.236.9420. $$$ Map R16

Seafood anthony’s fish grotto Bayside restaurant has served up fresh catches, fish ‘n’ chips and Mama’s famous clam chowders for 60 years running. And you can’t argue with those bay views. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 1360 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.232.5103. $$$ Map Q15 Baleen Paradise Point Resort’s signature restaurant serves upscale seafood and “land-food” with stellar bay views in an island-inspired and family-friendly environment. D (T-Su). 1404 W. Vacation Road, Mission Bay, 858.490.6363. $$$ Map I8

2588 S. S. COAST COAST HWY HWY.. 101 101 2588 CARDIFF CARDIFF 760.436.4044 760.436.4044 ONLINE RESERVATIONS RESERVATIONS AT AT ONLINE

CHART-HOUSE.COM -HOUSE.COM CHART

Oasis on Coronado Island

Peohe’s offers offers guests guests an an Peohe’s island-inspired menu menu featuring featuring island-inspired an eclectic eclectic mix mix of of fresh fresh seafood, seafood, an mouthwatering steaks, steaks, new new wave wave mouthwatering sushi and and more. more. Enjoy Enjoy Peohe’s Peohe’s sushi all new new modern modern decor decor and and all stunning waterfront waterfront view view of of stunning the San San Diego Diego skyline. skyline. the

1201 FIRST FIRST STREET STREET 1201 CORONADO FERRY FERRY CORONADO LANDING LANDING 619.437.4474 619.437.4474 ONLINE RESERVATIONS RESERVATIONS AT AT ONLINE

PEOHES.COM PEOHES.COM

Blue Point coastal cuisine Executive Chef Daniel Baron presents California-style seafood and fresh oysters as well as modern molecular cuisine and hearty dishes like the blue crab and white truffle mac ‘n’ cheese. Hip martini bar and decadent desserts, too. D (nightly). 565 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.6623. $$$$ Map Q16 the Brigantine Popular chain with a rollicking happy hour, steaks and chops is known for its fish tacos, swordfish and oyster bars. L (daily except Del Mar), D (nightly), Br (Su at Del Mar). 2725 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.2871, Map K8; 3263 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.481.1166, Map X22; 1333 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.435.4166. $$ Map L10 coronado Boathouse 1887 Prime rib and fish specialties like macadamia-crusted halibut in a beautiful, historic structure on the waterfront in Coronado. D (nightly). 1701 Strand Way, Coronado, 619.435.0155. $$ Map L10 donoVan’s PriMe seafood Popular steakhouse chain makes a splash with this seafood venture with prime Gaslamp location. D (M-Sa). 333 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.906.4850. $$$ Map R16 eddie V’s PriMe seafood Find seafood classics like shrimp cocktail, ahi tartare and lobster bisque, plus 28-day aged Prime center-cut steaks at this new La Jolla spot. D (nightly). 1270 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.459.5500. $$$-$$$$ Map W19 the fish Market/toP of the Market Casual dining includes seafood and sushi, plus oyster bar and bay view. Upstairs: Top of the Market features fine seafood and an expanded wine list. L, D (daily). 750 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.232.3474, Map Q15; 640 Via de la Valle, Solana Beach, 858.755.2277. $$ Map X22 island PriMe Seafood, steak and cocktails complemented by one of the city’s best views. Adjacent C Level Lounge on the spacious deck is popular with the after-work crowd. L, D (daily). 880 Harbor Island Drive, Harbor Island, 619.298.6802. $$$ Map J10 the oceanaire seafood rooM Retro oceanliner design features a bustling cocktail scene with oyster bar. Market-fresh seafood and regionally inspired dishes star on the daily-changing menu. D (nightly). 400 J St., Gaslamp, 619.858.2277. $$$ Map Q16 osetra Indulge in caviar, vodka and oysters at this progressive eatery, whose interior is defined by a three-story wine tower. Prime-aged meats are also on the menu. D (nightly). 904 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.239.1800. $$$ Map Q16 Pacifica del Mar Upscale ocean-view Asian fusion spot attracts a power crowd with mustard catfish and sugar-spiced salmon. Visit the vodka bar with more than

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Dining 160 selections. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.0476. $$$ Map X22 Peohe’s Tropical décor with spectacular water views and Pacific Rim plates like crispy wok-fried whole bass and fire shrimp. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1201 First St., Coronado, 619.437.4474. $$$ Map K10

Steak

You’re Invited

cowBoy star With barstools upholstered in cowhide, this downtown steakhouse is decked out in Old West style. Great cocktails. L (T-F), D (T-Su). 640 10th Ave., East Village, 619.450.5880. $$$ Map Q17

Olive Oil & Wine Tasting Daily Olive & Gourmet Foods Premium Artisan Wines Business Gift Collection

donoVan’s steak & choP house The power crowd noshes on huge portions of Prime steaks, chops and seafood paired with award-winning wines in a lively atmosphere. D (nightly; M-Sa at La Jolla). 4340 La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.450.6666, Map T21; 570 K St., Gaslamp, 619.237.9700. $$$ Map R16

taste

edgewater grill Casual bayside dining in Seaport Village features menu items like ahi, pasta and steak salad on a relaxed outdoor patio. B, L, D (daily). 861 W. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.232.7581. $$ Map R15

the finest California Extra Virgin olive oils, artisan vinegars, hand-crafted foods along with premium wines for an exquisite culinary adventure.

fleMing’s PriMe steakhouse & wine Bar Upscale steakhouse with Prime steaks, seafood, hearty side dishes and an excellent wine list (100+ choices by the glass). D (nightly). 8970 University Center Lane, La Jolla, 858.535.0078, Map T21; 380 K St., Gaslamp, 619.237.1155. $$$-$$$$ Map Q16

1158 Prospect St. La Jolla, CA 92037 (858) 551-8250

gaslaMP striP cluB Vintage Vargas Girl prints adorn this grill-it-yourself steakhouse and martini bar with self-serve wine cellar. Central location and social vibe makes this a friendly alternative to a traditional steakhouse. D (nightly). 21+. 340 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.231.3140. $$ Map Q16

SHOP ONLINE weolive.com

georges on fifth Wins over diners with its center-cut certified Angus Prime beef, American Kobe, fresh seafood, pasta and award-winning wine list. Live music F-Sa. D (nightly). 835 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.0444. $$$$ Map Q16 greystone, the steakhouse Prime steaks, seafood (try the Dover sole prepared tableside) and pastas in a great downtown location. Beefy menu includes filet mignon potstickers, Kobe carpaccio and more. D (nightly). 658 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.0225. $$$ Map Q16 lou & Mickey’s Chop house with a mid-century feel features Prime steaks, chops and seafood, plus martinis shaken tableside and 350+-item wine list. L (M-F), D (nightly). 224 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.237.4900. $$$ Map Q16 Morton’s, the steakhouse USDA Prime-aged beef, seafood, fine wine, chilled cocktails, decadent desserts, crisp white linens and great service at the edge of the historic Gaslamp Quarter. D (nightly). 285 J St., downtown, 619.696.3369. $$$-$$$$ Map Q16 the PalM restaurant Steak, lobster and pastas served in a saloon-like atmosphere with classic caricatures drawn with charcoals and pastels right on the walls. D (nightly). 615 J St., Gaslamp, 619.702.6500. $$$ Map P16 ruth’s chris steakhouse Steakhouse chain renowned for “like buttah” steaks, barbeque shrimp and Ruth’s bread pudding for dessert with spectacular views of San Diego Bay. L (F) in Carmel Valley, D (nightly). 1355 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.233.1422, Map Q15; 11582 El Camino Real, Carmel Valley, 858.755.1454. $$$ Map X22 the steakhouse at azul la Jolla Chef Carmine Lopez has a menu featuring Waygu beef and

A Cupcake Lounge Come visit us in the Gaslamp Quarter and try one of our heavenly flavors.

518 6th Avenue

[between Market & Island]

Closed Monday Sun, Tues-Thurs 10am - 10:00pm* Fri & Sat 10am - 11:30pm*

San Diego, CA 92101

*Closing time subject to change, if we sell out early

619.235.9235

Curbside Pickup Available

www.heavenlycupcake.com

As Seen On:

• Banana Chip • Banana PB • Carrot • Chocolate • Chocolate Peppermint • • Chocolate Vanilla • Cookies and Cream • Lemon Coconut • Mocha Chip • • Orange Chip • Pumpkin • Red Velvet • S’mores • Snickerdoodle • • Strawberry Snowball • Vanilla • Vanilla Caramel •

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downtown’s only

THE RESTAURANT

Dining hour restaurant bar & grill

AYS, HOLID Y, E H T ROUGH S GI V ING D A 4/ 7 TH D NK OPEN 2 UDING THA EVE/DAY AN INCL ISTMAS EVE/DAY CHR Y E A R S NE W

VIGILUCCI’S SEAFOOD, STEAK & CHOP HOUSE Italian-influenced chophouse features steaks, oysters (baked and on the half shell) and pastas like the classic capellini checca, along with breathtaking beach views. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 909 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.454.9664, Map W19; 3878 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.434.2580. $$$ Map T22

Thai LOTUS THAI Elegant bamboo décor and modern Thai cuisine with specialties including Choo Chee pork chops and roasted half-duck curry. L, D (daily). 3761 Sixth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.299.8272, Map N16; 906 Market St., downtown, 619.595.0115. $$ Map Q17

THAT NEVER

SLEEPS

fresh seafood. A garden patio is defined by a contemporary glass-encircled fire ring. L (Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 1250 Prospect St. #C10, La Jolla, 858.454.9616. $$$ Map W19

rAmA Traditional Thai in a stylish, exotic setting (check out the waterfall in the back room). Specialties include Crying Tiger, with thinly sliced filet mignon. L (M-F), D (nightly). 327 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.501.8424. $$ Map Q16

BREAKFAST LUNCH DINNER & LATE NIGHT MENU SERVED ROUND the CLOCK FULL BAR BEER ON TAP

rOyAL THAI CUISInE Extensive menu of traditional Thai cuisine and specialties like quick-fried cornish game hen prepared as hot (or not) as you like. L (daily; M-F at La Jolla), D (nightly). 467 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.230.8424, Map R16; 737 Pearl St., La Jolla, 858.551.8424. $$ Map W19 SPICE & rICE THAI KITCHEn Local favorite offers creative twist on Thai in specialties like Panang curry duck and spicy chili halibut. L (M–Sa), D (nightly). 7734 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.456.0466. $$ Map W19 SwADEE rESTAUrAnT OF COrOnADO Quaint eatery on Coronado known for its tasty curries and friendly service. L, D (M-Sa). 1001 C Ave., Coronado, 619.435.8110. $$ Map L10

Wine Bars COUnTErPOInT Ultra-friendly neighborhood wine bar serves salads, panini, craft beer, international wines and gourmet cheeses. L (Sa-Su), D (nightly). 830 25th St., Golden Hill, 619.564.6722. $$ Map Q18 THE GrAPE S.D.’s original wine bar features excellent wine list plus artisanal cheeses, breads and antipasti. Open nightly at 5 pm. 823 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.238.8010. $$ Map Q15 wE OLIVE Olive oil tasting room also includes coastal-view wine bar featuring California wines and tastings of gourmet food items. Daily 10 am-8 pm. 1158 Prospect St., La Jolla, 858.551.8250. $$ Map W19 THE wInE LOVEr Parisian-inspired wine shop features California and international wines, gourmet cheeses and imported olives. Daily from 4:30 pm. 3968 Fifth Ave., Hillcrest, 619.294.9200. $$$ Map V23

EXTRAORDINARY PORTIONS

wInE STEALS Lively atmosphere and wine-friendly eats (cheeses, pizzas and charcuterie) at good prices. Open daily. 1953 San Elijo Ave., Cardiff, 760.230.2657, Map W22; 1243 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.295.1188, Map N17; 2970 Truxton Road, Point Loma, 619.221.1959. $$ Map J9

complete menu available at www.brians24.com

828 6th Ave • Gaslamp 619.702.8410

THE BEST HOTCAKES YOU’VE EVER TASTED

wInE VAULT & BISTrO A truly special find in Mission Hills, this place serves five-course set-menu wine dinners every Saturday, with wine flights and special events during the week. Food ranges from Italian to French to California, depending on the evening. 3731-A India St., S. Mission Hills, 619.295.3939. $$ Map P15

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Lo W

Restaurants

Our superguide by area, with cross reference to listings by cuisine.

GASLAMP QUARTER AREA aCqua al 2 (Italian)..........................................................42 asti (Italian)............................................................................42 bice (Italian)............................................................................42 blue point (Seafood).......................................................45 brian’s 24 (Breakfast)......................................................36 buca di beppo (Italian).................................... 42 cAFE SEVILLA (International)..........................................41 cHOPAHN (International)....................................................41 croce’s (American)............................................................35 dick’s last resort (American)...............................35

panda inn (Chinese).........................................................39 proper gastropub (International)..........................41 ra sushi (Japanese)...........................................................43 richard walker’s pancake HOUSE (Breakfast)....................................37 ruth’s chris (Steak)....................................................... 46 top of the market (Seafood)..................................45 El Vitral (Mexican/Southwestern)..............................45 YARD HOUSE (Brewpubs).................................................37

Little italy

donovan’s (Steak)........................................................... 46

ANTHOLOGY (American)..................................................35

donovan’s prime seafood (Seafood)..............45

bencotto (Italian).............................................................42

LA FIESTA (Mexican).......................................................... 44

CRAFT + COMMERCE (American)................................35

fleming’s (Steak).............................................................. 46

extraordinary desserts (Desserts)...............39

gaslamp strip club (Steak).................................... 46

indigo grill (Eclectic/Fusion).................................... 40

Georges on fifth (Steak)......................................... 46

Po Pazzo (Italian)...............................................................43

GHIRARDELLI SODA FOUNTAIN (Desserts).........39

trattoria fantastica (Italian).............................43

the grape (Wine bars).....................................................47

wine vault & bistro (Wine bars)...........................47

greystone (Steak).......................................................... 46

the lincoln room (American).................................35

La jolla/ torrey pines/ golden triangle

lou & mickey’s (Steak)................................................. 46

alfonso’s (Mexican/Southwestern).......................... 44

House of Blues (American)........................................35 JSIX (California Cuisine)........................................................38

monsoon (International) .................................................41

A.R. Valentien (California Cuisine)............................37

nOBU (Japanese)....................................................................43

brockton villa (American)......................................35

The oceanaire (Seafood).............................................45

cafe japengo (Japanese).............................................43

tHE OLD SPAGHETTI FACTORY (Italian)...............42

cups (Dessert).......................................................................39

osetrA (Seafood)............................................................... 46

the cottage (Breakfast)................................................36

osteria panevino (Italian)........................................43

donovan’s (Steak)........................................................... 46

THE PALM RESTAURANT (Steak)............................... 46

Eddie V’s prime seafood (Seafood)...................45

quality social (American).........................................35

fleming’s (Steak).............................................................. 46

rama (Thai)............................................................................47

george’s at the cove (Cal. Cuisine)....................38

rED PEARL KITCHEN (Chinese)...................................39

marine room (French)................................................... 40

rei do gado (International)...........................................42

Mediterranean Room (International)..................41

royal INDIA (International)............................................42

michele coulon (Desserts).......................................39

royal thai (Thai)..............................................................47 san diego beer company (Brewpubs)...............37

nine-ten (California Cuisine)...........................................38 piatti (Italian)........................................................................43

searsucker (American).................................................36

roppongi (Eclectic/Fusion)........................................... 40

taka (Japanese)....................................................................43

royal thai (Thai)..............................................................47 sky room (California Cuisine)........................................38

downtown/EAST VILLAGE/EMBARCADERO ANTHONY’S FISH GROTTO (Seafood)......................45 BUb’s at the ballpark (American)......................35 cafe 222 (Breakfast)..........................................................36 cafe CHLOE (French)....................................................... 40 CANDELAS (Mexican/Southwestern)........................... 44 Counterpoin (Wine Bars).............................................47 Cowboy star (Steak)........................................46 dobson’s (California Cuisine).........................................38

spice & rice (Thai)............................................................47

Area Index

Harbor & shelter islandS point loma

STEAK & CHOP HOUSE (Steak)................................47

bali hai (Eclectic/Fusion).................................................39

vigilucci’s ristorante (Italian)...........................43

the brigantine (Seafood)............................................45

Wine steals (Wine bars)...............................................47

island Prime (Seafood)..................................................45

zenbu (Japanese)................................................................ 44

jimmy’s famous American tavern (American).................... 35 miguel’s cocina (Mexican/Southwestern)........... 44 OLD venice (Italian)..........................................................42 wine steals (Wine bars)...............................................47

CORONADO 1500 OCEAN (California Cuisine)....................................37 bistro d’Asia (Eclectic/Fusion)...................................39

North inland el bizcocho (French)..................................................... 40 stone brewing co. (Brewpubs)..............................37 Vincent’s (French)..............................................................41

Balboa park/ UPTOWN/hillcrest/ mission hills

the brigantine (Seafood)............................................45 candelas (Mexican/Southwestern)........................... 44 chez loma (French)......................................................... 40 coronado boathouse 1887 (Seafood).............45 coronado brewing co. (Brewpubs)..................37 Crown room (Breakfast)..............................................36 il fornaio (Italian)...........................................................42 miguel’s cocina (Mexican/Southwestern)........... 44

Alchemy (International)....................................................41 ARRIVEDERCI (Italian).......................................................42 avenue 5 (American).........................................................35 barrio star (Mexican).................................................. 44 Bankers hill (American)..............................................35 bayu’s ethiopian cuisine (Int’l)...........................41 bertrand at mr. a’s (American)............................35

Mistral (California Cuisine).............................................38

blind lady ale house (Brewpubs).......................37

Peohe’s (Seafood).............................................................. 46

CAFE ON PARK (Breakfast).............................................36

swadee restauranT (Thai).....................................47

CUCINA URBANA (Italian)...............................................42

Vigilucci’s Ristorante (Italian)...........................43

extraordinary desserts (Desserts)...............39 Farm House cafe (French)........................................ 40

del mar/ rancho Santa fe

il postino (Italian)............................................................42

ADDISON (French)............................................................... 40

kensington grill (American)..................................35

hash house a go go (Breakfast)............................36

Arterra (California Cuisine)...........................................37

The Linkery (California Cuisine)...................................38

the brigantine (Seafood)............................................45

lotus thai (Thai)..............................................................47

burlap (Eclectic/Fusion)................................................. 40

the mission (Breakfast)..................................................36

DEL MAR RENDEZVOUS (Chinese).............................39

the prado (International)................................................41

Flavor del mar (California Cuisine)........................38

the red door (American).............................................35

en fuego (Mexican/Southwestern)............................. 44

r gang eatery (American)..........................................35

il fornaio (Italian)...........................................................42

STARLITE (California Cuisine) . .........................................38

kitchen 1540 (California Cuisine).................................38

el take it easy (Mexican/Southwestern).............. 44

MARKET (California Cuisine)..............................................38

tractor room (American)..........................................36

mille fleurs (French).................................................... 40

urban solace (American)...........................................36

pacifica del mar (Seafood).......................................45

Steakhouse at azul (Steak).................................. 46

the wine lover (Wine bars).......................................47 wine steals (Wine bars)...............................................47

sushi on the rock (Japanese).................................43

North coastal

tapEnade (French)..............................................................41

the 3rd corner (American).......................................35

VIGILUCCI’S SEAFOOD

beach grass cafe (Breakfast).................................36

STEAK & CHOP HOUSE (Steak)................................47

bluefire grill (California Cuisine)............................37

Whisknladle (California Cuisine)...............................39

cardiff chart house (American)........................35

we olive (Wine bars)........................................................47

the fish market (Seafood).........................................45

zenbu (Japanese)................................................................ 44

VIGILUCCI’S SEAFOOD,

Harney Sushi (Japanese)..............................................43 OCEAN HOUSE (American)..............................................35

Old town el agave (Mexican/Southwestern).............................. 44 berta’s (International)........................................................41 cafe coyote (Mexican/Southwestern).................... 44 casa guadalajara . (Mexican/Southwestern).................................................... 44 Harney sushi (Japanese)..............................................43

edgewater grill (Steak).......................................... 46

mission bay/beaches

PAMPLEMOUSSE grille (French)............................ 40

the fish market (Seafood) ........................................45

the 3rd corner (American).......................................35

le passage (French)........................................................ 40

grant grill (California Cuisine)..................................38

baleen (Seafood)............................................... 45

pizza port (Brewpubs)....................................................37

knotty barrel (American).........................................35

Costa brava (International)..........................................41

EL Q’ERO (International).....................................................41

lotus thai (Thai)..............................................................47

Isabel’s cantina (Breakfast).....................................36

solace & the moonlight

the mission (Breakfast)..................................................36

JRDN (California Cuisine).....................................................38

lounge (American)........................................................36

morton’s, THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak)................. 46

the mission (Breakfast)..................................................36

TRATTORIA I TRULLI (Italian).......................................43

Mission valley/ kearny mesa

neighborhood (American).........................................35

pizza port (Brewpubs)....................................................37

vivace (Italian)......................................................................43

JASMINE SEAFOOD (Chinese).......................................39

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jack & giulio’s (Italian)................................................42 miguel’s cocina (Mexican)........................................ 44 old town mexican cafe (Mexican).................. 44

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Entertainment Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps on pages 60–63. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index

Festivals + Spec. Events.... 49 Center Stage...................... 49 Music + Dance....................51 Sports....................................52 Casinos.................................53 Attractions...........................53

Wineries...............................54 Museums.............................55 Destination Shopping......56 Nightlife................................57 Tours.......................................58

Festivals + Special Events Skating by the Sea Through Dec. 31. Ice skate at the beach at the Hotel del Coronado’s outdoor ice rink, overlooking the Pacific. Hotel del Coronado, 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.6000. Map L10

SALUTE TO VIENNA Jan. 1, 2 pm. A re-creation of Vienna’s famed New Year’s concert, combining operetta, ballet and symphony. Copley Symphony Hall, 750 B St., downtown, 619.235.0804. Map Q16 MARTIN LUTHER KING JR. DAY PARADE AND FESTIVAL Jan. 15. Parade down Harbor Drive starts at 10 am at the County Administration Building and features floats, high school bands, drill teams and more. Embarcadero, 619.264.0542. Map R15 SAN DIEGO RESTAURANT WEEK Jan. 15-20. Three-course prix-fixe dinners at more than 180 participating restaurants. Various locations. sandiegorestaurantweek.com. Michael Jackson: THE IMMORTAL World Tour by Cirque du Soleil Jan. 21-22. The music of MJ meets the spectacle of Cirque at Valley View Casino Center. 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway, 619.224.4171. Map N13

Balboa park december nights Dec. 2, 5-10 pm and Dec. 3, noon–10 pm. Popular, festive event featuring park-wide entertainment, ethnic foods, arts and crafts and free entry to museums. Balboa Park, 619.239.0512. Map O17

Disney on Ice Presents: Toy Story 3 Jan. 25-29. Buzz Lightyear, Woody and the gang take to the ice in this family-friendly spectacular. 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway, 619.224.4171. Map N13

JERRY SEINFELD Jan. 7. What’s the deal with that? Post-sitcom Seinfeld brings his schtick to San Diego (two shows). San Diego Civic Theatre, 1100 B St., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16

SAN DIEGO SUNROAD BOAT SHOW Jan. 26-29. See hundreds of watercraft up to 125 feet. Sunroad Marina, 955 Harbor Island Drive, Harbor Island, 619.497.5254. Map P14

HOLIDAY OF LIGHTS Through Jan. 1, 5:30 pm. Drivethrough light show with 400+ displays, $14-19 per car. 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar Fairgrounds, Del Mar, 858.755.1161. Map X22

Cat Fanciers CFA All-Breed Cat Show Jan. 28-29. More than 400 cats from 40 exotic breeds performing agility stunts and other feats at this cat show. 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 858.755.1161. Map X22

GARDEN OF LIGHTS Dec. 8-23, 26-30, 5-9 pm. More than 90,000 sparkling lights turn San Diego Botanic Garden into a winter wonderland. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas, 760.436.3036. Map V22 MISSION BAY BOAT PARADE OF LIGHTS Dec. 10, 7 pm. Some 60,000 people turn out to watch more than 100 festive boats sparkle on the bay. 858.488.0501. Map I8-I9 OCEANSIDE HARBOR PARADE OF LIGHTS Dec. 10, 7 pm. Illuminated watercraft come to North County. 760.722.5751. Map S22 an american Christmas Dec. 11-24. This interactive theatrical event finds audience members attending a four-course Christmas dinner circa 1911. Lamb’s Players Theatre at the Hotel del Coronado, 1500 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.6000. Map L10 SAN DIEGO BAY PARADE OF LIGHTS Dec. 11 and 18, 5:30–9 pm. 40th annual event features bedecked boats on the bay. Best viewing is at Shelter Island, Harbor Island, Embarcadero and Coronado. 619.224.2240. Map K8–K11 Poinsettia bowl gaslamp march Dec. 19, 6 pm. Marching bands and spirit squads parade Fifth Avenue performing fight songs to kick off the Poinsettia Bowl. 619.285.5061. Map Q16 istockphoto.com/ iladm

NEW YEAR’S ON THE MIDWAY Dec. 31. Ring in 2012 aboard an aircraft carrier with dinner, champagne, big band music and fireworks. 910 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.575.5500. Map Q14

PORT OF SAN DIEGO BIG BAY BALLOON PARADE Dec. 28, 10 am. Massive inflatables, floats, drill teams and bands march down N. Harbor Drive to kick off the Bridgepoint Education Holiday Bowl that evening at Qualcomm Stadium. 619.283.5808. Map R15

CHINESE NEW YEAR FOOD AND CULTURAL FAIRE Jan. 28-29 Welcome the year of the dragon in San Diego’s Asian Pacific Thematic Historical District with performances, a lantern parade, taiko drumming, lion dances and delicious food. Third Ave. and J St., downtown, 619.234.7844. Map R16 SAN DIEGO JEWISH FILM FESTIVAL Feb. 9-19. The 22nd annual festival presents 40-50 short subject, documentary and feature films exploring Jewish experience. Various theaters. 858.457.3030. nations of san diego international dance festival Feb. 10-12. 18th annual event showcases performers representing the dance traditions of more than 15 countries, from clogging to ballet folklórico. Coronado Performing Arts Center, 650 D Ave., Coronado, 619.522.4050. Map L10 Mardi Gras in the Gaslamp Quarter Feb. 21 6 pm-midnight. The West Coast’s Biggest Fat Tuesday celebration features parades, music and beads. Gaslamp Quarter, 619.233.5227. Map Q16

Center Stage American Night: The Ballad of Juan José Jan. 27-Feb. 26. A provocative, comedic journey through American history set against our transborder landscape. Potiker Theatre at the La Jolla Playhouse, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010. Map T20 A Behanding in Spokane Jan. 19-Feb. 19. This black comedy concerns a man searching for his missing hand, two con artists and an overly curi-

Winter’s Tail

Every winter, majestic grey whales migrate from the frigid waters of the Arctic Circle to Mexico’s more temperate lagoons, traveling some 10,000-12,000 miles in the process. In San Diego Bay, whale watching excursions depart from the Embarcadero daily between December and March; stop by the Visitor Information Center at Broadway and Harbor Drive for information, or see p. 58 for a list of tour operators. La Jolla Kayak’s paddle-out tours get you even more up-close-and-personal (p. 59). Don’t have your sea legs? No problem. The view’s great from Cabrillo National Monument (p. 54), while the Birch Aquarium (p. 53) offers whale-related educational exhibitions and activities—no Dramamine required.

Go beyond oboes, saxophones and clarinets to discover the Central Asian and Middle Eastern roots of reed instruments at Carlsbad’s Museum of Making Music (p. 55).

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Entertainment ous hotel clerk (violence, strong language). Cygnet Theatre in Old Town, 4040 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.337.1525. Map E3 cats Jan. 10-15. Winner of seven Tonys during its 18-year run on Broadway, Andrew Lloyd Webber’s indelible musical stops in S.D. on its national tour. Broadway/ San Diego, Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16 Dividing the Estate Jan. 14-Feb. 19. As their family fortune diminishes, children of a Texas matriarch debate whether to divide their mother’s estate to ensure their own financial independence. Old Globe Theatre, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16

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Dr. Seuss’ How the Grinch Stole Christmas! Through Dec. 31. The holiday classic, which has gone on to Broadway, returns for the 14th year in a row. Old Globe Theatre, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16 festival of christmas Dec. 1-30. Kerry Meads writes a new play each Christmas in this 34th annual “tradition that’s different every year.” Lamb’s Players Theatre, 1142 Orange Ave., Coronado, 619.437.0600. Map L10 the great american trailer park musical Through Dec. 4. This show is billed as “a comic fable about agoraphobia, adultery, spray cheese, roadkill, hysterical pregnancy, kleptomania and strippers.” Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.231.3586. Map Q16

Fine Stationery and Invitations

1032 Wall Street, La Jolla 858.456.7361

A Hammer, a Bell, and a Song to Sing: The Music of Pete Seeger Jan. 7–Feb. 5. A trio of musicians sings “Turn, Turn, Turn,” “Little Boxes” and more protest songs by Pete Seeger. Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.231.3586. Map Q16 in the wake Feb. 11–March 4. Obsessed writer WSD_WI12_Panache-Statements_v6.indd 1 Ellen discusses politics with friends and lovers in the aftermath of the contested 2000 Presidential election. Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.231.3586. Map Q16

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It’s A Wonderful Life: A Live Radio Play Through Dec. 31. Capra’s Christmas classic is performed as a 1940s live radio broadcast, complete with music and sound effects. Cygnet Theatre in Old Town, 4040 Twiggs St., Old Town, 619.337.1525. Map E3 jesus christ superstar Through Dec. 31. Des McAnuff’s hailed revival of the classic rock musical about the last week of Christ’s life comes to S.D. after a successful turn at the Stratford Shakespeare Festival. Mandell Weiss Theatre at the La Jolla Playhouse, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.550.1010. Map T20

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the lion in winter Jan. 4-29. James Goldman’s quintessential family drama brings modern-day relevance to the intrigues of 12th-century England. North Coast Repertory Theatre, 987-D Lomas Santa Fe Drive, Solana Beach, 858.481.1055. Map X22 The Recommendation Jan. 21-Feb. 26. This worldpremiere play from Jonathan Caren follows privileged Aaron and socially unconnected Iskinder from the safe haven of college to the perilous real world. White Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16 riverdance Dec. 2-4. Crowdpleasing spectacular of Irish music and dance stops in S.D. on its national tour. Broadway/San Diego, Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16 some lovers Thru Dec. 31. World-premiere musical based on “The Gift of the Magi” features music by Burt Bacharach. White Theatre at the Old Globe, 1363 Old Globe Way, Balboa Park, 619.23.GLOBE. Map Q16

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Entertainment For day-of-show, half-price tickets, visit the Arts Tix booth in downtown San Diego at Horton Plaza, 619.497.5000, or at California Center for the Arts in Escondido, 360 N. Escondido Blvd., 800.988.4253, or visit www.sandiegoperforms.com.

Music + Dance artpower! Music, dance, art and film series at UCSD. Dec. 1: Marco Benevento; Jan. 18: Bang on a Can All-Stars with Steve Reich; Jan. 19: Lezioni di Cioccolato (Lessons in Chocolate) (film); Jan. 27: Calder Quartet; Feb. 2: Kuqi de Nüren (Crying Woman) (film); Feb. 8: Ben Russell; Feb. 19: St. Lawrence String Quartet; Feb. 22: Cloud Gate 2 (dance); Feb. 27: Don’t Fence Me In. Various locations around UCSD campus. artpwr.com Athenaeum music and arts library Chamber Concert Series: Jan. 25: Brooklyn Rider; Feb. 18: Miró Quartet. 1008 Wall St., La Jolla Map W19 Balboa theatre Dec. 3-4: San Diego Gay Men’s Chorus presents Yule Tube; Dec. 10: Straight No Chaser; Dec. 16: An Irish Christmas; Dec. 23: Dave Koz and Friends; Jan. 15: David Garrett; Feb. 11: Anjelah Johnson; Feb. 14: Tommy Emmanuel. 868 Fourth Ave., downtown, 619.570.1100. Map Q16

1501 India Street, #120 (corner of Beech & India) San Diego

Little Italy | 619/239-2929 BellaStanza_FA11v2.indd 1

Birch north park theatre Dec. 9-10: The World Famous Popovich Comedy Pet Theatre; Dec. 14: Rent (FilmOut screening); Dec. 16: Gary Morris: One Man, One Guitar, One Night; Dec. 17: 12th Hawaiian Christmas Show with Makaha Sons feat. Kealii Reichel; Dec. 18: The Klezmatics. 2891 University Ave., North Park, 619.239.8836. Map N18 california center for the arts Dec. 9: An Irish Christmas; Dec. 11: Orchestra Nova holiday spectacular; Dec. 11: Antique and Collectible Show; Dec. 16-17: The Nutcracker; Jan. 19-22: Shen Yun; Jan. 28: The Jonathan Winters Show; Feb. 18: Reunion of the 7/19/11 3:21 PM Doo Wop Stars; 340 N. Escondido Blvd., Escondido, 800.988.4253. Map B3 city ballet of san diego Dec. 9-21: The Nutcracker. Spreckels Theatre, 121 Broadway, downtown, 858.272.8663. Map Q16 Cricket wireless AMPHITHEATER Call ahead for complete schedule. 2050 Entertainment Circle, Chula Vista, 619.671.3600. Map F4 Harrah’s Rincon Casino—Open Sky Theater Call for complete schedule. 777 Harrah’s Rincon Way, Valley Center, 877.777.2457. Map B4 la jolla symphony and chorus Steven Schick conducts. Dec. 3-4: Ancient Noises: pieces by Ligeti, Stravinsky and Bartok feat. guest artists red fish blue fish, Lux Boreal dance, Jessica Aszodi, Martha Jane Weaver, Chad Frisque, Phil Larson; Feb. 11-12: The Populist: Verdi, Brahms and John Adams feat. guests Michael Blinco, Stephanie Aston, Leslie Leytham. Mandeville Auditorium at UCSD, La Jolla Village Drive, La Jolla, 858.534.4637. Map T20 mainly mozart Jan. 27: violist Che-Yen Chen is featured on a program of music by Dvorak, Prokofiev, Mozart; Jan. 29: Edward Arron (cello), Emily Daggett Smith and Stefan Jackiw (violins) perform Bartok, Kodaly, Beethoven; Feb. 24-26: John Lill (piano) performs Beethoven, Brahms, Schumann. Various venues. 619.239.0100 x 2. open air theatre at sdsu Call for complete schedule. 5500 Campanile Drive, SDSU, 619.594.0429. Map E3 orchestra nova (formerly S.D. Chamber Orchestra). Feb. 11, 13: Favorite Opera Moments. Various locations. 858.350.0290.

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Entertainment rimac arena at ucsd Call for complete schedule. 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 858.534.8569. Map T20 san diego ballet Dec. 3-4: The Nutcracker w/ Grossmont Symphony at Birch Theatre, 2891 University Ave., North Park, 619.239.8836, Map N18; Dec. 17-18: The Nutcracker, Mandeville Auditorium, UCSD, La Jolla, 619.294.7311, Map T20; Feb. 10-11: Romance, Lyceum Theatre, 79 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.544.1000. Map Q17

san diego sYmpHonY Jacobs Masterworks Series: Dec. 2-4: Vivaldi’s Four Seasons feat. Robert McDuffie, violin; Dec. 9-11: Beethoven’s Ninth feat. John Nelson, conductor, Heidi Grant Murphy, soprano, and San Diego Master Chorale; Jan. 13-15: Louis Lortie (piano) Plays Schumann; Jan. 25: Royal Philharmonic Orchestra performs Berlioz, Saint-Saëns, Tchaikovsky feat. Charles Dutoit, principal conductor, and Jean-Yves Thibaudet, piano; Feb. 18: Itzhak Perlman Recital feat. Rohan de Silva, piano. Copley Symphony Hall, 750 B St., downtown, 619.235.0804. Map Q14 Chamber Music Series: Jan. 10: Brahms Violin Sonata with Louis Lortie, piano; Feb. 28: Johannes Moser and Orion Weiss perform Dvorak and more. The Neurosciences Institute, 10640 John Jay Hopkins Drive, La Jolla, 619.235.0804, Map S20 Camera Lucida (chamber music performed by Symphony solo instrumentalists): Dec. 5: Mahler, Wagner and J. Strauss; Feb. 6: Beethoven, Martinu and Schubert. Conrad Prebys Concert Hall, UCSD, 9500 Gilman Drive, La Jolla, 619.235.0804, Map T20

4 Locations

san diego opera Jan. 28, 31, Feb. 3, 5: Salome; Feb. 18, 21, 24, 26: Moby-Dick. Civic Theatre, Third Ave. and B St., downtown, 619.533.7000. Map Q16

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san diego sYmpHonY winter pops Dec. 16-18: Holiday Pops feat. Matthew Garbutt, conductor, John Pagano, vocals, San Diego Master Chorale, San Diego Children’s Chorus, Mariachi Champaña with Mónica Ábrego; Jan. 20-21: Ballroom with a Twist feat. WSD_Pretty Please_WI12v2.indd 1 guest artists Jonathan Roberts and Jane Seymour; Jan. 28: Ballet Folklórico de Colombia; Feb. 10-11: A Valentine Romance with Broadway’s Best feat. Marvin Hamlisch, conductor, and Jennifer Holliday (Dreamgirls) and Hugh Panaro (Phantom), vocals; Feb. 14-15: Moscow Festival Ballet presents Tchaikovsky’s Sleeping Beauty (Feb. 14) and Swan Lake (Feb. 15); Feb. 17: Tao: Taiko Drummers of Japan. Copley Symphony Hall, 750 B St., downtown, 619.235.0804. Map Q14

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sprecKels organ paVilion Su, 2–3 pm. Free concerts on the world’s largest outdoor pipe organ. Balboa Park, 619.702.8138. Map O17 sprecKels tHeatre Dec. 3: Jo Koy. Call for complete schedule. 121 Broadway, downtown, 800.745.3000. Map Q16 ValleY View casino center (formerly San Diego Sports Arena) Jan. 21-22: Michael Jackson: The Immortal World Tour. Call for complete schedule. 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway, 619.224.4171. Map N13 Viejas arena at sdsu Call for complete schedule. 5500 Canyon Crest Drive, SDSU, 619.594.0429. Map E3

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Sports

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san diego cHargers National Football League. Dec. 11: Buffalo Bills; Dec. 18: Baltimore Ravens. Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 877.242.7437. Map H12 san diego socKers Indoor Arena Soccer. Dec. 17: Tacoma Stars; Dec. 27: U.S. Open Cup Opening Round Game; Jan. 7: Revolución Tijuana; Jan. 21: Turlock Express; Jan. 28: Revolución Tijuana; Feb. 11: Phoenix Monsoon; Feb. 25: Tacoma Stars. Del Mar Arena, 2260 Jimmy Durante Blvd., Del Mar, 866.799.4625. Map X22

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Attractions + Museums poinSettia bowl Dec. 21, 5 pm. College football. Matches a Mountain West Conference team with a Western Athletic Conference team. Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.283.5808. Map I12 holiday bowl Dec. 28, 5 pm. Features top collegiate teams from the Pac 10 and Big 12 conferences. Qualcomm Stadium, 9449 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.283.5808. Map I12 FarmerS inSUrance open Jan. 23-29. The golf event formerly known as the Buick Invitational tees off at Torrey Pines with the PGA Tour’s most celebrated names. 11480 N. Torrey Pines Road, La Jolla, 858.886.4653. Map S19

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harlem globetrotterS Feb. 17. Always-entertaining basketball showmen bring their act to the Valley View Casino Center. 3500 Sports Arena Blvd., Midway, 619.224.4171. Map K11

Casinos barona Valley ranch reSort and caSino More than 2,000 slot machines, 70+ table games, satellite wagering and an all-you-can-eat buffet. Daily, 24 hours. 1932 Wildcat Canyon Road, Lakeside, 619.443.2300. Map D4 caSino paUma Tropically themed complex with more than 35,000 square feet of gaming, 850 slots, 24 table games, poker parlor and non-smoking section. Daily, 24 hours. 777 Pauma Reservation Road, Pauma Valley, 760.891.7900. Map A4 pala reSort and caSinO Features 2,250 state-ofthe-art slots and video machines, 85 Vegas-style gaming tables, eight restaurants and entertainment in two lounges. 11154 Hwy. 76, Pala, 760.510.5100. Map A3 pechanga reSort and caSino Video machines, table games, lunch buffet and entertainment center featuring live concerts and professional boxing. Alcohol served. Daily, 24 hours. 45000 Pechanga Parkway, Temecula, 951.693.1819. Map A3 harrah’S rincon caSino Slots paradise. Daily, 24 hours. 33750 Valley Center Road, Valley Center, 760.751.3100. Map B4 SycUan caSino Find high-stakes bingo, pai gow poker, slots and four restaurants at this East County gambling hall, plus a 500-seat theater. Daily, 24 hours. 5469 Dehesa Road, El Cajon, 619.445.6002. Map D5

introducing... San diego’s new edgy chic clothing boutique, featuring European and designer fashions exclusively in sizes 12 and above.

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Valley View caSino High-limit blackjack, 1,750 slots, steakhouse and 24-hour café, free valet parking and separate non-smoking gaming and bar area. Daily, 24 hours. 16300 Nyemii Pass Road, Valley Center, 760.291.5500. Map B4 VieJaS caSino This Alpine casino features more than 2,500 Vegas–style slots, table games, satellite wagering, high-stakes bingo, buffet and six restaurants. Daily, 24 hours. 5000 Willows Road, Alpine, 800.847.6537. Map D5

Attractions belmont park A beachfront landmark with the historic Giant Dipper roller coaster, Wave House, Liberty Carousel, a family playland, SoCal’s largest indoor pool, arcades and more. Open daily; call for hours. 3190 Mission Blvd., Mission Beach, 858.488.1549. Map I8 birch aqUariUm at ScrippS Explore one of the U.S.’s largest oceanographic museums, and enjoy a spectacular view from the tidepool plaza. Open daily 9 am–5 pm. $14; seniors $10; kids 3-17

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Attractions + Museums $9.50; children 2 and under free. Three-hour courtesy parking. 2300 Expedition Way, La Jolla, 858.534.3474. Map U20 cabrillo NATIONAL MONUMENT Exhibits, whale watching, tidepools, trails, the restored Old Point Loma Lighthouse and spectacular views. Daily 9 am–5 pm. $3-5. 1800 Cabrillo Memorial Drive, Point Loma, 619.557.5450. Map L8 LEGOLAND Find 50+ rides and shows and Sea Life Aquarium’s seven-foot-long Lego submarine. Also check out the recently opened waterpark complete with lazy river. Adults $69; kids 3–12 and seniors 60+ $59 (add $11/ticket for admission to aquarium or water park; add $20/ticket for admission to all three). Aquarium-only: adults $20, seniors 60+ $17, kids 3-12 $13. Parking $12–20. Call for hours. 1 Legoland Drive, Carlsbad, 760.918.5346. Map U22

California light, SpaCe, SurfaCe on view through 1/22/12

m m co al

R S

LA JOLLA 700 Prospect Street DOWNTOWN 1100 and 1001 Kettner Blvd. 858 454 3541 www.mcasd.org

Doug Wheeler, DW 68 VEN MCASD 11, 1968/2011, white UV neon light. Courtesy of the artist. Photo: Doug Gates.

SAN DIEGO ZOO World-famous zoo has more than 4,000 rare and endangered animals in state–of–the–art environment. $40; kids 3–11 $30; kids 2 and under free. Free parking. Open daily 9 am-8 pm. 2920 Zoo Drive, Balboa Park, 619.231.1515. Map O17

San diego BOTANIC GARDEN One of the world’s most diverse plant collections. Daily 9 am–5 pm. $12; seniors 60+ $8; kids 3-12 $6; kids 2 and under free. Parking $2. 230 Quail Gardens Drive, Encinitas, 760.436.3036. Map V22

Phenomenal:

po & O ss U R ib le N Ag by D E E

safari PARK (formerly the Wild Animal Park). Take a safari adventure through the 1,800–acre wildlife preserve, home to herds of exotic animals roaming in vast enclosures resembling African and Asian plains. Safari packages start at $40 for adults; children 3–11 $30; kids 2 and under free. Cars $10–15. Open daily 9-5 pm (until 6 pm Dec. 17-31 and Feb. 18-20). 15500 San Pasqual Valley Road, Escondido, 760.747.8702. Map C3

Choose your safari

SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features 11COM080_WHERE_Phenom_adv2.indd 1 thousands of marine animals including killer whales plus fish, reptiles and birds. $70; kids 3–9 $62; kids 2 and under free. Parking $14-19. Open daily; call for hours and combo rates. 500 SeaWorld Drive, Mission Bay Park, 800.25.SHAMU. Map I8

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Wineries bernardo winery Founded in 1899 by Sicilian winemakers, this is the oldest continuously operating Winery in SoCal. Also on-site: a restaurant, chocolatier and art galleries, including a glassblowing studio. Tastings daily. 13330 Paseo Del Verano N., Rancho Bernardo, 858.487.1866. Map C4

sdzsafaripark.org

CARRUTH CELLARS Urban winery and tasting room makes wine from Northern California grapes; tastings W-Su. 320 S. Cedros Ave. #400, Solana Beach, 858.847.9463. Map X22 L.A. CETTO The largest winery in Baja’s scenic wine region, which produces 90% of Mexico’s wine. Open daily for tastings; also features olive oil, chocolates and gifts. KM 73.5 Tecate-Ensenada Highway, Valle de Guadalupe, Baja California, Mexico, lacetto.com. MENGHINI WINERY Boutique Julian winery produces just 4,000 cases of Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Cabernet Sauvignon annually. Tastings daily. 1150 Julian Orchards Drive, Julian, 760.765.2072. Map C6 ORFILA VINEYARDS Growing Syrah, Viognier, Muscat Canelli and more, this boutique winery produces about 10,000 cases of Rhone-style wines annually. 13455 San Pasqual Road, Escondido, 760.738.6500. Map C3 PONTE FAMILY ESTATE WINERY This 300-acre vineyard grows mostly Cabernet, Merlot and Chardon-

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Attractions + Museums San Diego Symphony

Great Concerts All Year Round!

nay, plus other Italian varieties; tasting room open daily. 35053 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.694.8855. Map A2 thornton winery Medal-winning sparkling winery is housed in a vineyard-view chateau in Temecula. Tasting lounge open daily; tours on weekends. 32575 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.699.0099. Map A2 wilSon creek winery and Vineyard Known for its almond champagne, this Tuscan-inspired estate also includes a restaurant and tasting room, both open daily. 35960 Rancho California Road, Temecula, 951.699.9463. Map A2 witch creek winery Two tasting rooms, including one in the heart of Carlsbad, offer samplings of Witch Creek’s full-bodied wines daily, each with a feline-inspired name. 2906 Carlsbad Blvd., Carlsbad, 760.765.2023, Map T22; 2100 Main St., Julian, 760.720.7499. Map C6

Museums

CLASSICAL

POPS

For Complete Season Information: CALL 619.235.0804 or VISIT sandiegosymphony.com

T HE O CE AN A WA IT S .

caliFornia SUrF mUSeUm Collection of surfing artifacts and memorabilia, plus exhibits about surfing legends. Rare surfing collectibles in museum gift shop. Daily 10 am–4 pm, Th 10 am-8 pm. Adults $3; seniors/ military/students $1; kids under 12 free. 312 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.721.6876. Map S22 maritime mUSeUm Visit the 1863 barque Star of India (world’s oldest active ship), the 1898 steam ferryboat Berkeley, the 1904 steam yacht Medea, a Soviet-era submarine and the HMS Surprise, the Royal Navy frigate featured in the film Master and Commander. Daily 9 am–8 pm. $14; seniors/military $11; kids 6-17 $8; children 5 and under free. The schooner Californian also offers half-day sailing trips ($31-42). 1492 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.234.9153. Map P14 mingei international mUSeUm Exhibits celebrate folk art. Tu–Su 10 am–4 pm. $5–8; children 5 and under free. 1439 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.0003. Map O17 miSSion San diego de alcalÁ The first of 21 missions stretching north along the California coast, this one was established by Junípero Serra in 1769 on Presidio Hill and moved to this site in 1774. Daily mass in the chapel at 7 am and 5:30 pm and tools and artifacts on display. Visitor’s center open daily 9 am–4:45 pm. Adults $3; kids/seniors $2. 10818 San Diego Mission Road, Mission Valley, 619.281.8449. Map I12 mUSeUm oF contemporary art San diego Renowned for its vast collection and thoughtprovoking exhibits, this museum features post-1950s art spanning many genres and media. Both locations open Th–Tu 11 am–5 pm, third Th 11 am–7 pm. Closed W. $5-10 admission valid for 7 days; ages 25 and under free; free third Th 5-7 pm. 700 Prospect St., La Jolla, Map W19; 1001 and 1100 Kettner Blvd., downtown, 858.454.3541. Map Q15

EXPLORE DAZZLING CORAL REEFS, THRILLING SHARKS, AMAZING SEAHORSES, CAPTIVATING JELLYFISH, AND BREATHTAKING PACIFIC VIEWS. Open daily 9-5 • 2300 Expedition Way in La Jolla • 858-534-FISH • aquarium.ucsd.edu

mUSeUm oF making mUSic Vintage instruments, interactive audio and visual exhibits offer dynamic look into the history of American popular music. Tu–Su 10 am–5 pm. $5–7; kids 5 and under free. 5790 Armada Drive, Carlsbad, 760.438.5996. Map U23 mUSeUm oF photographic artS Collection includes contemporary photography, social documentary and photojournalism. Film screenings, too. Tu-Su 10 am–5 pm., Th 10 am-9 pm. $5–8; kids 12 and under free. 1649 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.7559. Map O17 new children’S mUSeUm Downtown’s newest museum, designed just for kids, encourages visitors to touch and interact with exhibits. M-Sa 10 am–4 pm. (Th

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Shopping until 6 pm; closed W); Su noon-4 pm. $10; seniors $5; children under 1 free. Free second Su. 200 W. Island Ave., downtown, 619.233.8792. Map Q16 OCEANSIDE MUSEUM OF ART Regional and international artists showcased in exhibits ranging from landscape painting to studio furniture, neon sculpture, art quilts and architectural glass. Tu–Sa 10 am–4 pm, Su 1-4 pm. $5–8 (students/military free). 704 Pier View Way, Oceanside, 760.435.3720. Map S22 REUBEN H. FLEET SCIENCE CENTER Interactive science galleries invite visitors to explore the wonders of astronomy and physics. Giant-screen films run in the IMAX Dome Theater. M-Th 10 am–5 pm (open later during holiday breaks), F till 8 pm, Sa till 7 pm, Su till 6 pm. $9.75-11.75 (IMAX films extra); kids 2 and under free. 1875 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.238.1233. Map O17

richard walker:Layout 1 4/8/09 5:01 PM Page 4

SAN DIEGO AIR & SPACE MUSEUM Hot-air balloons, jets and historic aircraft from around the world. Daily 10 am–4:30 pm. $7-17.50 (Space exhibition admission is $12-24), kids 2 and under free. 2001 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.8291. Map P17 SAN DIEGO HALL OF CHAMPIONS Three levels and 68,000 square feet of sports exhibits and interactive displays form the largest multi-sports museum in the U.S. Daily 10 am–4:30 pm. $4–8; kids 6 and under free. 2131 Pan American Plaza, Balboa Park, 619.234.2544. Map O17 SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF ART Diverse collection includes Italian Renaissance and Spanish Baroque works, 19th–20th century American and European paintings and sculptures and a vast Asian collection. Tu–Sa 10 am–5 pm, Su noon-5 pm. $4.50–12; kids 6 and under free. 1450 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.7931. Map O17 SAN DIEGO MUSEUM OF MAN Go on a journey of the human experience highlighting our physical and cultural development through permanent and changing exhibits. Daily 10 am–4:30 pm; $8–12.50; children 2 and under free. 1350 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.2001. Map O17

VOTED BEST BREAKFAST BY NBC TV OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 6:30 AM – 2:30 PM 520 Front Street, Downtown San Diego (just South of Market) 619-231-7777 www.Richardwalkers.com

Adventure R.I.B. Rides...

Daily Gray Whale & Dolphin Watching Excursions offered.

because life is meant to be an adventure!

Common Sightings: Gray Whales, Fin Whales, Humpback Whales and lots of dolphin.

SAN DIEGO NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Dinosaur displays, giant-screen films, photography exhibitions and more. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $11–17; children 2 and under free; free for active military first Tu. 1788 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.232.3821. Map O17 STUART COLLECTION OF SCULPTURE Scattered across the UCSD campus, outdoor art collection includes talking and singing trees, Sun God and more. Free. Gilman and La Jolla Village drives, La Jolla, 858.534.2230. Map T20

All charters are limited to 6 passengers.

photo by Caitlin SCully

1-6 H House Ad WSD_SU09:Layout 1

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USS MIDWAY The world’s largest floating navalaviation museum has restored airplanes on the flight deck and interactive exhibits inside. Daily 10 am–5 pm. $10–18; military/kids 5 and under free. 910 N. HarborADVENTURE RIDES_WI12v1.indd 1 Drive, Embarcadero, 619.544.9600. Map Q14

Destination Shopping CARLSBAD PREMIUM OUTLETS 90 outlet stores (Barneys New York to Polo Ralph Lauren to Banana Republic) in a nice outdoor setting. 5620 Paseo del Norte, Carlsbad, 760.804.9000. Map U22 DEL MAR PLAZA With more than 20 shops, including Banana Republic and Chico’s, and nine restaurants, this gorgeous tri-level boutique shopping plaza overlooks the Pacific Ocean. 1555 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.1555. Map X22 FASHION VALLEY Beautiful bi-level, outdoor mall with 200+ shops like Tiffany & Co., Louis Vuitton and

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Page 1

BEFORE YOU FLY, SURF. www.whereSD.com

10/25/11 3:57 PM

Discover timely information on current events, restaurants, sights and attractions on the WHERE Magazine website.

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Nightlife G O L F I S I T S OW N REWARD

Tory Burch, five department stores, eight restaurants and 18-screen movie theater. 7007 Friars Road, Mission Valley, 619.688.9113. Map J10

San Diego’s top rated golf course is set in secluded canyons and ravines

the ForUm at carlSbad Elegant, tree-lined outdoor center with dozens of shops and restaurants, including Anthropologie and Sur La Table. 1905 Calle Barcelona, Carlsbad, 760.479.0166. Map V23

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laS americaS premiUm oUtletS Spanish Colonial-style outlet mall has 125+ shops. 4211 Camino de la Plaza, San Ysidro, 619.934.8400. Map F3 otay ranch town center Shops at this South County mall include Apple and Sephora; there’s also outdoor fire pits, a dog park and a movie theater. Eastlake Pkwy. at Olympic Pkwy., Chula Vista, 619.656.9100. Map F3 Seaport Village Picturesque and charming outdoor plaza on the waterfront features 54 one-of-a-kind shops and galleries. 849 W. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 619.235.4014. Map R15 VieJaS oUtlet center Tranquil outdoor mall with 60+ shops (Gap, Tommy Hilfiger, Polo Ralph Lauren) plus restaurants and concert park. 5005 Willows Road, Alpine, 619.659.2071. Map D5 weStField horton plaza Multi-level outdoor mall featuring almost 200 shops, two restaurants and a food court. Anchored by Macy’s and Nordstrom. 324 Horton Plaza, downtown, 619.239.8180. Map Q16 weStField Utc Outdoor mall has more than 180 shops, five restaurants and a food court. Located near UCSD, the mall is anchored by Macy’s, Sears and Nordstrom. 4545 La Jolla Village Drive, Golden Triangle, 858.546.8858. Map T21

Experience San Diego

Nightlife Gaslamp Quarter/Downtown/Little Italy

207/Float Rock ‘n’ roll glamour at the Hard Rock Hotel; two nightspots offer different vibes, from the street-level 207 lounge to the rooftop Float, featuring bottle service in poolside cabanas. Hard Rock Hotel, 207 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.702.3000. Map Q16 4th & b Local favorite for live music, located downtown adjacent to the Gaslamp Quarter. Call for shows. 345 B St., downtown, 619.231.4343. Map Q16 anthology Chic three-story venue with amazing acoustics has live jazz, Latin, blues and rock. 1337 India St., Little Italy, 619.595.0300. Map Q15 baSic Urban bar in a cool, renovated warehouse near the ballpark serves brick-oven pizzas. 410 10th Ave., East Village, 619.531.8869. Map Q17

A cruise on San Diego Bay combines dining, sightseeing, and relaxation all together for a top family activity. See over 50 famous San Diego landmarks on any cruise!

OFF ANY SAN DIEGO HORNBLOWER CRUISE

Book with code WRE05. Valid up to six adults tickets. Cannot be combined with any other offer. Cannot be used on holidays, Saturday nights, or special events. Additional restrictions may apply. Reservations suggested. Please note expiration date, Hornblower Cruises & Events will not honor any expired coupons, offers or discounts. Expires 2/29/12.

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bootlegger This spacious, light-filled spot features vintage Prohibition-inspired design accents plus pub grub, flat-screen TVs and more. 804 Market St., East Village, 619.794.BOOT. Map Q17 the caSbah Small but legendary rock club has hosted superstars like Nirvana, Smashing Pumpkins on their way up. Live music nightly. 2501 Kettner Blvd., Midtown, 619.232.4355. Map P15 doUble deUce Country-rock bar features mechanical bull, DJs and dancing downstairs, stripper pole and interactive games in upstairs cocktail bar. 528 F St., Gaslamp, 619.450.6522. Map Q16 eaSt Village taVern & bowl Sports bar and bowling alley near Petco Park also has darts and pool. 930 Market St., East Village, 619.677.BOWL. Map R17

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Tours +Transport FLUXX Ambiance-changing dance club from the design team behind Sidebar and Stingaree. 500 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.232.8100. Map Q16

EN FUEGO Lively singles vibe and tasty Mexican food served up on this restaurant’s bustling patio. 1342 Camino del Mar, Del Mar, 858.792.6551. Map X22

HENRY’S PUB Nightclub and restaurant serves California cuisine and showcases live entertainment nightly. 618 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.238.2389. Map Q16

JIMMY O’S A favorite of sports fans and locals. Choose between the sports bar and the nightclub. 225 W. 15th St., Del Mar, 858.350.3735. Map X22

HOUSE OF BLUES Live rock, blues and pop music, plus Sunday gospel brunch. Call for current shows. 1055 Fifth Ave., downtown, 619.299.2583. Map Q16

710 BEACH CLUB Steps from the beach, this live music venue has everything from rock to hip-hop. 710 Garnet Ave., Pacific Beach, 858.483.7844. Map H8

THE IVY Vegas-worthy club in the Andaz Hotel has sexy décor and rooftop bar with downtown views. 600 F St., Gaslamp 619.814.2055. Map I8 ON BROADWAY Housed in an old bank, this megaclub still packs in a huge weekend crowd. Where else will you find a dance floor in a bank vault? 615 Broadway, Gaslamp, 619.231.0011. Map Q16 ONYX DJs, jazz and cocktails in bi-level Gaslamp nightpot. 852 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.235.6699. Map Q16 THE SHOUT HOUSE Dueling pianos played by impossible-to-stump musicians. Music ranges from classic rock to contemporary hits. 655 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.231.6700. Map Q16 SIDEBAR DJs, dancing and bottle service at this sexy, modern downtown lounge. 536 Market St., Gaslamp, 619.696.0946. Map Q16 STINGAREE Tri-level dance club and restaurant with rooftop cabanas. Ultra hip nightspot with several house specialty drinks. Dress code enforced. 454 Sixth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.544.9500. Map Q16

Beaches

BAR WEST This 5,000-foot upscale bar and lounge merges downtown chic with the casual attitude of the beach. 959 Hornblend St., Pacific Beach, 858.273.9378. Map H8

HUMPHREY’S BACKSTAGE LOUNGE Live jazz and blues along with dancing. A longtime favorite located right on the water. 2241 Shelter Island Drive, Shelter Island, 619.224.3577. Map K8 JRDN “Jordan,” Tower 23’s hip bar, overlooks the ocean and has a variety of signature cocktails and a full raw bar. 4551 Ocean Blvd., Pacific Beach, 858.270.5736. Map K8 SOUTH BEACH BAR & GRILL Just steps away from the ocean, this bar offers light fare and drinks. 5059 Newport Ave., Ocean Beach, 619.226.4577. Map J8 TURQUOISE CAFE BAR EUROPA This Euro-style wine bar has tapas, cask wines and live music nightly. 873 Turquoise St., Pacific Beach, 858.488.4200. Map H8

ADVENTURE R.I.B. RIDES Intimate dolphin, whalewatching and sightseeing excursions onboard a Navy SEAL Rigid Inflatable Boat (R.I.B.) with U.S. Coast Guard Captain Ken Manzoni. 619.808.2822.

TOP OF THE HYATT Panoramic vistas from the West Coast’s tallest waterfront building. Take in the sunset or enjoy the lights of downtown. 1 Market Place, downtown, 619.232.1234. Map Q15

BALBOA PARK Free tours about history, architecture, horticulture and botanical gardens. Call for schedule. Visitors Center, House of Hospitality, 1549 El Prado, Balboa Park, 619.239.0512. Map P17

VIN DE SYRAH Alice in Wonderland-themed subterranean nightspot has eye-popping design, live music, wine and full bar. 901 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.234.4166. Map Q16

BIPLANE, AIR COMBAT & WARBIRD ADVENTURES Among the airborne tours offered are gentle or thrilling coastal biplane rides for two, you-fly-it air combat, loops and rolls in a WWII warbird. Montgomery Field, 760.930.0903. Map U23

La Jolla

BARFLY Sports bar by day, DJ/dance club by night in the heart of the village. 900 Prospect St., 858.454.2323. Map W19 CAFE JAPENGO Beautiful people to go along with the artistic sushi and Asian fusion fare. 8960 University Center Lane, UTC, 858.450.3355. Map T21 WHALING BAR Classic old-school haunt at La Valencia Hotel has an Old World seaside feeling and has played host to a who’s who of La Jolla society. 1132 Prospect St., 858.454.0771. Map W19

North County

BELLY UP North County’s premier live music venue. Voted best live-music venue and lauded by Rolling Stone magazine. 143 S. Cedros Ave., Solana Beach, 858.481.8140. Map X22 COYOTE BAR & GRILL Hot live music and cool fire pits. Indoor/outdoor spot offers casual ambience and a view. 300 Carlsbad Village Drive, Carlsbad, 760.729.4695. Map T22

3-day Park Hopper® to Disneyland® Park and Disney California AdventureTM Park

Tours + Transport

THE TIPSY CROW A neighborhood bar with three levels including pool tables, shuffleboard and trivia. 770 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.338.9300. Map Q16

VOYEUR Punk-inspired Gaslamp bar features DJs, fashion events and on-site boutique. 755 Fifth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.756.7678. Map Q16

26%

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COACH AMERICA SAN DIEGO Daily tours of all attractions in San Diego and Mexico. Charter minibuses, fully equipped passenger coaches. 3888 Beech St., downtown, 800.331.5077. Map P16 CORONADO TOURING Walking tour around the historic Hotel del Coronado and neighborhood. Tu, Th and Sa at 11 am. $12; children 3 and under free. Meet at Glorietta Bay Inn, 1630 Glorietta Blvd., Coronado, 619.435.5993. Map L11 CORPORATE HELICOPTERS Great views of La Jolla and downtown from the comfort of a private helicopter. Montgomery Field, 800.345.6737. Map H11 DESTINATION TEMECULA Door-to-door excursions to Temecula Wine Country, including wine tastings, complimentary wine glass, lunch and free time in Old Town Temecula. 28475 Old Town Front St., Temecula, 800.584.8162. Map A2

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Tours +Transport FlagShip crUiSeS and eVentS Daily narrated tours of San Diego Bay plus brunch and dinner cruises, water taxi and more. 1050 N. Harbor Drive, Embarcadero, 800.442.7847. Map Q14 gaSlamp qUarter hiStorical FoUndation Two-hour walking tour of the Gaslamp, Sa 11 am. $10. 410 Island Ave., Gaslamp, 619.233.4692. Map R1

‘

Pianos g n i l e u D

gaSlamp Segway Guided segway tours of historic neighborhoods including La Jolla and Coronado. Reservations required. 739 Fourth Ave., Gaslamp, 619.239.2111. Map R16

OPEN EVERY NIGHT

la Jolla kayak Cave and snorkel tours, bike and kayak rentals, whale-watching excursions and more. 2199 Avenida de la Playa, La Jolla Shores, 858.459.1114. Map V20

oll Rock n R

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hornblower crUiSeS Daily narrated tours of San Diego Bay, plus dinner cruises, yacht charters, whale watching, weddings and events. 1066 N. Harbor Drive, Broadway Pier, Embarcadero, 619.686.8700. Map Q4

magical adVentUreS Offering hot air balloon flights over Del Mar & Wine Country. 866.ENJOY.US. old town trolley toUrS oF San diego Narrated sightseeing tour explores San Diego and Coronado via trolley or “SEAL” (sea and land vehicle). On-and-off boarding privileges. Call for nearest pickup point and reservations. 619.298.8687.

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San diego chineSe hiStorical Society Walking tour of the Asian Pacific Historic District. Second Tu-Sa 10 am, Sun 12 pm. Reservations required. $2; children free. Chinese Historical Museum, 404 Third Ave., downtown, 619.338.9888. Map R16 San diego Scenic toUrS Daily half-day and full-day tours of attractions in San Diego and Mexico, including the Agua Caliente Racetrack in Tijuana. 858.273.8687. Seal toUr This unique amphibious tour explores San Diego Bay and its environs. Departs Th-M from Seaport Village. 619.298.8687. Map Q15 So diego toUrS Culinary, nightlife and bike/walk sightseeing tours geared toward active visitors. 770 11th Ave., East Village, 619.233.8687. Map Q17 SUp coronado Group and private lessons in the new sport of stand-up paddleboarding, plus ocean and bay tours. Various Coronado locations, 619.888.7686.

SAN DIEGO’S ONLY DUELING PIANO BAR Live Music I Great Food I Fun Drinks Audience Participation I Sing-A- Long

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UniVerSo baJacaliForniano Guided bus tours explore the natural beauty of Baja, including cave paintings and historic missions. 011.52.646.178.2232 or universobc.com. Urban SaFariS Weekend walkabouts of San Diego neighborhoods (or by appointment). 619.944.9255. where yoU want to be toUrS Scavenger hunt explores downtown S.D. Walk and bike tours also available. 619.917.6037. Xplore oFFShore Personalized ocean-rafting on a Navy SEAL-style boat: high-speed sightseeing, snorkeling and evening cocktails on the waterfront. 858.456.1636.

where?

655 4th Ave, Gaslamp Quarter

W W W. T H E S H O U T H O U S E . CO M

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30 things we love San Diego

The Shanghai mule at Burlap, which swaps sake for vodka in a subtle new twist. p. 12

Trying on dresses at the Gaslamp Quarter’s Dolcetti Boutique. p. 19

Wrecking our palate with Green Flash Brewing Co.’s seasonal beer, Palate Wrecker. p. 5

The clean, modern design of Orange & Park’s San Diego map prints. p. 6

The men’s shirts at Crow Thief, handcrafted the old- fashioned way. p. 25

The fresh flavors and reinvented classic cocktails at Saltbox at the Palomar Hotel. p. 4

Catching an art-house flick at Kensington Cinema (4061 Adams Ave., Kensington, 619.283.3227).

Customizing our own burgers via iPad at Fashion Valley’s new Stacked. p. 5

Browsing artsy home décor stuff at Product Porch, the limited-time-only pop-up gift shop at MCASD downtown. p. 6

The deliciously tender lengua tacos at Mama Testa Taqueria (1417 University Ave., Hillcrest, 619.298.8226).

Getting to be one of the first audiences to see Jake Heggie’s buzzed about new opera MobyDick. p. 16

Browsing the stacks at Warwick’s, the oldest family-run bookstore in the U.S. (7812 Girard Ave., La Jolla, 858.454.0347).

Sampling hard-to-find beers from all over the world at Bottlecraft (2161 India St., Little Italy, 619.487.9493).

Pubcakes—cupcakes made with beer—at cool craft beer bar Toronado (4026 30th St., North Park, 619.282.0456).

These Guiseppe Zanotti snakeskin pumps, perfect for today’s zoology-inspired fashion trend. p. 8

Casio-influenced local band Bone Quida Ida (soundcloud. com/bqi-1).

Admiring the midcentury craftiness at the Mingei Museum’s Craft Revolution, part of the Getty’s Pacific Standard Time initiative. p. 29 Taking in a rock show at the Casbah with a cold PBR in hand. p. 57 Teeing off against the backdrop of the Pacific Ocean at Torrey Pines Golf Course. p. 32 The luxury moviegoing experience at the new Cinepolis at Del Mar Highlands shopping center, complete with leather recliners and gourmet snacks delivered right to your seat (12905 El Camino Real, Del Mar). Ocean views at Flavor. p. 14

where in the world

Cured meats and Italian tapas at Davanti Enoteca. p. 35

WHERE is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com United StateS Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Denver, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Museum-hopping in Balboa Park. p. 28 The whole ArtPower! season. p. 51 Checking out new Burt Bacharach tunes in Some Lovers at the Globe. p. 50 Hiking Cowles Mountain (mtrp.org). Cozying up with Earl Grey and tiny sandwiches at The Westgate Hotel’s afternoon hightea service (1055 Second Ave., downtown, 619.238.1818). Holiday boat parades. p. 49

Getting to see the Jesus Christ Superstar revival before it goes to Broadway. p. 50

The fact that a 65-degree day here qualifies as “winter.”

New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington, D.C. aSia Hong Kong, Macau, Singapore Canada Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg eUrope Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

64 WHERESD.COM WINTER 2012

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