Where Los Angeles, March 2019 by California Media Group

MARCH 2019 SoCalPulSe.Com

LOS ANGELES

a look at the city’s dark side What’s neW around toWn l.a. takes on asian cuisine

classic l.a.

Pedal boats, old-school bars, beaches and other timeless treasures in the city of angels

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where

LOS ANGELES March 2019 THE CLASSIC L.A. ISSUE

CONTENTS

DEPARTMENTS

THE GUIDE

6 Hot Dates

48 DINING Notable restaurants by cuisine and neighborhood

PPLA Food Fare draws L.A.’s gourmets and culinary stars to the Barker Hangar. Also this month, the Dodgers kick off the 2019 season at Dodger Stadium and L.A. marathoners run from the stadium to the sea.

60 ENTERTAINMENT Special events, performing arts and sports 62 ATTRACTIONS Theme parks, activities, studio tours, museums and more

80 30 Things We Love

68 SHOPPING The county’s major retail destinations

Glam accessories, tantalizing cocktails and succulent and sweet treats are putting spring in our step.

WHERE NOW 8 Dining Take in 360-degree views while enjoying Coastal Mediterranean cuisine and cocktails at Margot, the buzzy new indoor-outdoor restaurant atop Culver City’s stylish Platform development.

70 SPAS Havens for pampering and beauty

72 NIGHTLIFE Hot bars and cool clubs

72 BEACHES Sandy stops along L.A.’s coastline

Bay scallops at Nightshade

73 TOURS + TRANSPORT Getting out, getting around and getting to know Los Angeles

CITY TOURS

Play private eye and investigate L.A.’s noir history—mobsters, mysteries, murders and more— at seven storied destinations and inspired events.

Imperial Western Beer Co.

FEATURES

ON THE COVER Echo Park Lake, iconic film location. Photo by Dale Berman.

18 Beverly Hills 22 Santa Monica 26 West Hollywood 30 Hollywood 34 Downtown 38 Pasadena 42 The Valley 44 South Bay 210

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10 Classic L.A. Los Angeles may be famous for its fads, but it’s also steeped in nostalgia. Here are four days full of fun ways to experience quintessentially L.A. locales and pastimes. BY ANDREA RICHARDS

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Explore the city from north to south and A to Z. PAGE 75

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14 Pacific Time CONNECT WITH US ONLINE

Drawing from Los Angeles’ diverse Asian communities and an innovative spirit, local restaurants and chefs—including Top Chef alums Shirley Chung, Mei Lin and Kuniko Yagi—reimagine centuries-old culinary traditions. BY ROGER GRODY

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Knott’s Berry Farm

Get the up-to-the-minute buzz from our Southern California editors online and on your smartphone. 10

Angel Stadium of Anaheim

Staples Center/L.A. Live/ Convention Center

South Coast Plaza/ Segerstrom Center for the Arts

where Los Angeles

WONHO FRANK LEE (2)

9 Entertainment

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where magazine

publisher EDITOR

Jeff Levy

Gillian Glover

ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Benjamin Epstein

PRODUCTION ARTIST Diana Gonzalez Contributing designer Heidi Schwindt Contributing EDITOR Suzanne Ennis copy Editor Aja Hoggatt

FIND YOUR ESCAPE

----- on CATALINA ISLAND ----

contributing WRITERS

James Bartlett, Taylor Clayton, Roger Grody, Briggs Hatton, Andrea Richards digital Editor William Yelles digital contributor Jordan Fraser contributing photographers

Dale Berman, Brown Cannon III, Matt Hartman, Edwin Santiago Jessica Levin Poff

advertising Director ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Kerry Brewer, Tim Egan, Joel Gilliam, Sara Kemp, Heather Price business manager

Visit Catalina in 2019 for special tours, activities, and events during Catalina Island Company’s 125th Anniversary Celebration and Wrigley Centennial.

Leanne Killian Riggar

Circulation/Special events MANAGER

Kelsey Bauder

marketing/PRODUCTION MANAGER

Dawn Kiko Cheng administration

Whitney Lauren Han, Eva Scattergood For Advertising Information, contact Jessica.Levin@WhereLA.com 310.280.2880 NATIONAL SALES Joy Lona 213.596.7211 honorary president

Ted Levy

where Los Angeles

3679 Motor Ave., Suite 300 Los Angeles, California 90034 Phone: 310.280.2880 Fax: 310.280.2890 EMAIL Editorial Gillian.Glover@WhereLA.com Art Art@WhereLA.com Production Ads@WhereLA.com Digital William.Yelles@WhereLA.com Circulation Kelsey.Bauder@WhereLA.com Plan for your next visit to Los Angeles. Subscribe to where: single copy $4, 12 issues $36. Phone: 310.280.2880

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© 2019 Southern California Media Group. All rights reserved. Published by Southern California Media Group. where makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications.

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WHERE CALENDAR

HOT DATES March 2019

LET’S DO THIS

Because we just want to have fun IN MARCH CicLAvia March 3

The country’s largest openstreets event kicks off 2019 with a walk and bike tour through Culver City, Mar Vista and Palms. p. 60

Justin Timberlake March 10

The “SexyBack” singer stops at the Staples Center on his Man of the Woods Tour. p. 62

Casey’s St. Patrick’s Day Street Festival March 17

Celebrate St. Paddy’s Day in DTLA at Irish pub Casey’s annual party, complete with Jameson, green beer and traditional Irish fare. p. 60

March 28-31

The Broad presents the West Coast debut of this internationally acclaimed exhibition, which celebrates work created by black artists over two decades. p. 66

L.A. Marathon March 24

Play Ball! The Los Angeles Dodgers will open the 2019 Major League Baseball season against the Arizona Diamondbacks on March 28 at Dodger Stadium, in hopes of bringing the city its first World Series win since 1988, and its seventh in franchise history. The Dodgers are going for their third straight World Series

Soul of a Nation: Art in the Age of Black Power 1963-1983 Opens March 23

appearance, something the franchise has yet to accomplish despite its illustrious history. The matchup could possibly have two former Dodgers facing one another, with Diamondbacks pitcher Zack Greinke and Dodgers pitcher Clayton Kershaw (right) as probable starters for their respected clubs’ season openers—

the first pitch is at 1:10 pm. The teams’ four-game series takes place March 28-31; promotions include Friday Night Fireworks on March 29, Walker Buehler Bobblehead night March 30 and Kids Run the Bases on Sunday, March 31, where kids 14 and under can hit the field after the game. p. 62

HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Check out our Weekend Roundup at socalpulse.com for the up-to-the-minute lowdown on the coolest concerts, plays, sporting events, festivals, art exhibitions and restaurants.

Thousands of runners from around the world turn out to take on the famed “Stadium to the Sea” course. p. 60

Cirque du Soleil: Corteo March 27-31

The French-Canadian troupe celebrates the circle of life with a festive parade at the Forum. p. 62

Spring Bloom Walks All month

Learn about cherry blossoms and flowering trees during Descanso Gardens’ weekend walks. p. 62

FROM TOP: DISHES AT CRAFT LA, COURTESY PPLA FOOD FARE; JILL WEISLEDER/LA DODGERS

MARCH 7 CULINARY CAUSE March marks the return of the PPLA Food Fare, a culinary fundraiser in support of Planned Parenthood Los Angeles. The fair is celebrating its 40th year as one of Southern California’s premier food events—it started back in 1979 as a cooking demonstration with the legendary Julia Child. Eat and drink your way through Santa Monica’s Barker Hangar, which houses offerings from more than 150 of the city’s top restaurants, caterers, wineries and breweries including Baltaire, Button Mash, Otium, Salazar and Tesse. Chef Helene An of House of An, the group behind Crustacean Beverly Hills, is being honored as the 2019 Chef of the Year. p. 60

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SHOPPING DINING ENTERTAINMENT

BEST VIEW OF HOLLYWOOD SIGN WALK OF FAME TCL CHINESE THEATRES DOLBY THEATRE – HOME OF ACADEMY AWARDS®

R E C E I V E E X C LU S I V E D I S C O U N T S O N SHOPPI NG , D I N I N G A N D E N T E RTA I N M E N T WI T H O U R NEW V I P AC C E S S P RO GR A M . V I S I T T H E L.A . V I S I TOR ’S C ENT ER O N LE V E L 2 TO R E C E I V E YO U R FR E E C AR D TODAY.

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WHERE NOW The best in dining and entertainment

DINING

Adding yet another eagerly anticipated dining concept to Culver City, Rohan Talwar and the rest of the team behind West Hollywoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stylish Norah bring Margot to trendy shopping center Platform's rooftop space. The vibrant spot boasts an enticing array of Spanish and Italian cuisine that nonetheless utilizes local California ingredients and produce. Along with an extensive crudo bar, standout menu items include culurgiones (traditional Sardinian potato-filled pasta), brined and roasted cauliflower, and tasty focaccia with burrata. These are complemented by a cocktail program inspired by the art of aperitivo and vermouth, as well as a robust global wine list. With its modern industrial design, grand outdoor patio with lush greenery, and sweeping, 360-degree views of the city, Margot invites you to luxuriate, coastal Mediterranean-style.â&#x20AC;&#x201A; 8820 Washington Blvd., Suite 301, Culver City, 310.643.5853, margot.la

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UMBRELLA LOS ANGELES

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Umbrella Los Angeles

2 entertainment

L.A. Noir

As both the background for countless classic detective movies and the site of infamous true-crime stories, Los Angeles has some shadowy secrets to share. by James Bartlett This winter, TNT’s I Am the Night shined a spotlight on L.A.’s hidden dark past. Retrace the City of Angels’ noir history yourself at these seven shadowy stops. Bookworms can start in 1 Glendale, which is hosting the 40th L.A. Vintage Paperback Show. The world’s largest gathering of pulpy favorites and some of the authors who scribed them, it’s a treasure hunt for that elusive tale with a twist—and occasionally risque cover art. There are sci-fi, mystery and original artworks for sale too, and it’s only $5 to get in. Sunday, March 24, 9 am-4 pm. Glendale Civic Auditorium, 1401 N. Verdugo Road, Glendale, la-vintage-paperback-show.com Driving through Los Feliz, gawk at the crazy/scary Sowden House. This Lloyd Wright-designed Mayan-style oddity had a secret room, was made for theatrics and, from 1945 to 1950, it was the home of Dahlia suspect (and I Am the Night villain) Dr. George Hodel. Much strangeness happened here, and the slick and shiny

new Dearly Departed Tour will tell you all about it. 5121 Franklin Ave., L.A., dearlydepartedtours.com/ black-dahlia-mystery-tour In WeHo, the muchmissed Formosa Cafe will soon reopen after a restoration by the 1933 Group. The low-lit restaurant was partly fashioned from an old Route 66 trolley car, and its vibe is both romantic and illicit—mobsters Mickey Cohen and Bugsy Siegel were Formosa regulars. L.A. Confidential filmed in this former criminal/movie-star hangout, and there’s even a resident ghost! 7156 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, theformosabar.com

Hop over to Hollywood and check out the Noir City Film Festival, coming to the Egyptian Theatre for its 21st year. Slide into a seat, bask in the light of the big screen and check out some double features of crime flicks, genre classics, cult rarities and recent restorations from the 1950s era. March 29-April 7. Egyptian Theatre, 6712 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., noircity.com

Shuffle across the boulevard to The Musso & Frank Grill for a martini. Raymond Chandler wrote The Big Sleep in the Back Room here (he even mentions it in his pages), and it’s also played host to Fitzgerald, Faulkner and Hemingway. Still paparazzifree after 100 years, Musso’s has been a celebrity favorite since the days of regulars like Chaplin and Fairbanks. Nearby, at Hollywood and Cahuenga, is Raymond Chandler Square; the Pacific Security Bank building is where Chandler’s private eye character Philip Marlowe had his office. 6667 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.467.7788, mussoandfrank.com

Moving toward downtown, you can visit colorful Echo Park Lake and watch its fountains shooting water heavenward. Its huge swan pedal boats aren’t exactly undercover, but fans of the ultimate L.A. noir movie, Chinatown, know this is where private eye Jake Gittes (played by Jack Nicholson) pretended to be boating so he could spy on a man and a mysterious girl. 751 Echo Park Ave., L.A., 213.444.9445, wheelfunrentals.com /ca/los-angeles/echo-park

Finally, at the Millennium Biltmore Hotel in downtown L.A.’s Financial District, you’ll find yourself in a world of glittering chandeliers and afternoon tea—but appearances can be deceptive. Fashioned in the Spanish-Italian Renaissance style with a beaux arts influence, the hotel was the last place Elizabeth Short was seen alive. The Historic Corridor gallery has a glamorous photo of her, and the opulent Gallery Bar offers the Black Dahlia cocktail in her honor. 506 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.624.1011, thebiltmore.com

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Classic L.A.

Four days in the City of Angels that transcend time. I wish I had the full itinerary of my grandparents’ trip to Los Angeles in 1967—or better yet, a time machine that could transport me there. They came to visit my parents, who lived in San Pedro, and from the stories I’ve heard, iconic spots including Ports O’Call, the Original Farmers Market and the ritzy restaurant then atop the Theme Building at Los Angeles International Airport. Fifty years later, several of those are still here. ¶ That’s the definition of a classic: It doesn’t lose its appeal over time. L.A. is full of restaurants, bars and attractions that keep people coming back because they continue to capture something quintessentially, well, L.A. ¶ Though it’s known for its trendiness, its fads and for being a “new” city, Los Angeles is actually a place of deep tradition. Our traditions might not look like other cities’—think tacos after rock shows or paletas in the park after a perfect hike—but that’s what’s great about them. Sometimes a simple bowl of chili or a certain view of the ocean acts as a wormhole that allows us to travel back in time. ¶ Here are four days—and many ways—to experience classic L.A. by Andrea Richards

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Clockwise: Malibu Farm Pier Cafe; Camera Obscura; Zuma Beach and Point Dume. Opposite: Santa Monica Pier

DAY 1

TOP: MARTIN LOF; BOTTOM: DIVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK. FAR RIGHT AND OPPOSITE: COURTESY SANTA MONICA TRAVEL & TOURISM

Hit the Beach

hat better way to pay homage to our endless summer than to spend a day at the beach? Start by grabbing a coffee and a ticket at the counter of Santa Monica’s Bay Cities Italian Deli & Bakery, which has been making its signature sandwiches since 1925. Order the famous “Godmother” with the works and pick from the deli’s ample selection of sides and salads to pack a picnic Frankie and Annette would envy. With that and some bevies in a backpack, drive up the PCH for an easy hike along the breathtaking coast at Point

Dume in Malibu (park in the lot at the end of Zuma Beach— there’s a trail up the bluff). Expect incredible views, including sea lions romping in the surf below and migrating whales during the winter and spring. Break out those sammies while resting on the small deck on the trail, or wait to spread a blanket out on Zuma Beach, one of the longest surfing beaches in California, open since the 1940s. Shake the sand off and head farther up the PCH to the Malibu Pier for a rejuvenating coffee or glass of wine at Malibu Farm Pier Cafe, located in a beautiful midcentury build-

ing at the seaward end of the pier. Originally built in 1905, the Malibu Pier is a sleepy contrast to Santa Monica’s and has a long history as both a filming location (The Rockford Files, Gidget) and a military lookout. Today the patio on the second floor of the café is one of the county’s best places to sip a sauvignon blanc. After drinking in the views of Malibu, head back down the coast to Santa Monica, stopping in Pacific Palisades to visit the gardens at the Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine. Here, film history comes together with L.A.’s spiritual bent—the former home of Inceville and 20th Century Fox is now an incredible meditation and retreat center. Center yourself before re-entering the busy world in Santa Monica’s Palisades Park, where you’ll find an attraction that’s been astonishing visitors since 1898, the Camera Obscura. Along with the optical device housed in a tiny room, the civic center below sponsors events and an artist residency. Finally, close out a perfect beach day with drinks and dinner at Chez Jay, a 58-year-old beach shack that was a hot spot

for celebrities in the 1960s (Lee Marvin once rode his motorcycle into the bar). If you’re in need of a nautical nightcap, try Santa Monica’s oldest restaurant, The Galley, for drinks at its fabulous South Seas Bar.

Bay Cities Italian Deli & Bakery 1517 Lincoln Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.395.8279, baycitiesitaliandeli.com / Camera Obscura 1450 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.2239 / Malibu Farm Pier Cafe 23000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.456.1112, malibu-farm.com / Point Dume State Beach 7103 Westward Beach Road, Malibu / Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine 17190 Sunset Blvd., Pacific Palisades, lakeshrine.org / Zuma Beach 30000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu WHERE LOS ANGELES 11

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Day 3

Downtown Love

From top: Martini at Musso & Frank; The Original Farmers Market; the Hollywood Bowl

Day 2

Hollywood Stars

n most people’s minds, Tinseltown and its historic industry are inseparable. Take a tour with Hollywood Heritage or a walk on your own to see two iconic neighborhoods: High Tower Court, known for its streamline moderne architecture, and Lake Hollywood, both near the Hollywood Bowl. High Tower Court—named for the private five-story 1920 elevator that accesses its homes—is featured in Michael Connelly novels and the film version of Raymond Chandler’s The Long Goodbye. Walking the winding streets gives you a good taste of the city’s eclectic hillside architecture. Also noirish is the 1924

Mulholland Dam at Lake Hollywood. A 3.5-mile paved trail around the old reservoir offers a stunning view of the iconic Hollywood sign. The Musso & Frank Grill has been serving up its famous flannel cakes to the crème de la crème of Hollywood, and a host of writers, since 1919. Have a martini in their honor! Stay on the boulevard for a special screening at Sid Grauman’s first Hollywood movie palace, the Egyptian Theatre, built in 1922, which now serves as the home of the American Cinematheque. Visit cinephile fave Larry Edmunds Bookshop, now marking 70 years, and browse its selection of film-related books, movie posters and scripts. A meal at Canter’s Deli,

“L.A.’s best since 1931,” is a must. Consider a plate of lox, a pastrami sandwich or a cocktail in the Kibitz Room. Nearby at Third Street and Fairfax Avenue, The Original Farmers Market has been feeding locals and visitors since 1934. Landmarks within the landmark include Magee’s Kitchen, Du-Par’s Pie Shop, Monsieur Marcel Bistro, Bennett’s Ice Cream and Patsy D’Amore’s Pizza—said to have introduced pizza to L.A. Canter’s Deli 419 N. Fairfax Ave., 323.651.2030, cantersdeli.com / Egyptian Theatre 6712 Hollywood Blvd., 323.461.2020, egyptiantheatre.com / High Tower Court 2178 High Tower Drive / Hollywood Bowl 2301 N. Highland Ave., hollywoodbowl.com / Hollywood Heritage 2100 N. Highland Ave., 323.874.4005, hollywoodheritage.org / Lake Hollywood 2600 Lake Hollywood Drive, laparks.org / Larry Edmunds Bookshop 6644 Hollywood Blvd., 323.463.3273, larryedmunds.com / Musso and Frank Grill 6667 Hollywood Blvd., 323.467.7788, mussoandfrank.com / The Original Farmers Market 6333 W. 3rd St., 323.933.9211, farmersmarketla.com

left, from top: TINA WHATCOTT; courtesy the original farmers market; courtesy LA PHIL

egin your downtown tour at Grand Central Market, the epicenter of epicurean L.A.; more than three dozen vendors include Eggslut, Ana Maria and Belcampo Meat Co. Tip your hat to Blade Runner across the street at the Bradbury Building. Take a ride on Angels Flight, the tiny, beautifully restored funicular that takes you up Bunker Hill. Built in 1901, it’s the world’s shortest railway. From there, it’s a short walk to City Hall; the iconic art deco building offers a wonderful view of downtown from its observation deck. Stay in that deco moment at another icon, Union Station, its new Imperial Western Beer Company brewpub and glamorous train-car cocktail bar The Streamliner. On the way is the Little Tokyo location of the Museum of Contemporary Art; the Geffen Contemporary was a former police-car warehouse that was retooled by Frank Gehry in the early 1980s. At the heart of downtown— across from Union Station, close to Chinatown, Little Tokyo and the Arts District, and north of the Los Angeles Civic Center—

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Below: jakob layman. all other photos this page courtesy images

is El Pueblo de Los Angeles Historical Monument, which marks where the city began, in 1781. Watch the sun go down on the historic district’s Old Plaza, and honor the moment with a few taquitos from Cielito Lindo, which has been serving rolled tacos on Olvera Street since 1934. Enjoy a paloma or two at La Cita, then dance the night away until you’re hungry enough to hit the nearby Original Pantry Cafe, which has been offering breakfast all day and all night since 1924. Angel’s Flight 350 S. Grand Ave., angelsflight.org / Cielito Lindo E-23 Olvera St., 213.687.4391, cielitolindo.org / Geffen Contemporary 152 N. Central Ave., 213.625.4390, moca.org / Grand Central Market 317 S. Broadway, 213. 624.2378, grandcentralmarket.com / Imperial Western Beer Company and The Streamliner 800 N. Alameda St., 213.270.0035, imperialwestern.com / La Cita 336 S. Hill St., 213.687.7111, lacitabar.com / Los Angeles City Hall 200 N. Spring St. / The Original Pantry Cafe 877 S. Figueroa St., 213.972.9279, pantrycafe.com

Grand Central Market. Above: La Cita

Valley Relics Museum. Below: Bob’s Big Boy

Day 4

Classic Valley

hough removed from much of the hubbub of the city, the San Fernando Valley boasts its own classic attractions. Find the 94th Aero Squadron Restaurant inside two hangars at the Van Nuys Airport. The faux French farmhouse is named for a World War I unit and was built to seem like it’s been hit in an air raid. Sit on the patio and watch as private jets take off on the runway before you. Visit the oldest remaining outpost of Bob’s Big Boy in Burbank for any meal of the day. A masterpiece of Googie architecture built in 1949, it was declared a California historical landmark more than a quarter of a century ago. It sets the tone for the intensive study of the area’s history that follows at the Valley Relics Museum, whose collection of pop culture artifacts includes neon signs, vintage BMX bikes and playable arcade games. From the heart of the Valley,

head to North Hollywood for drinks at two equally kitschy spots: the Tonga Hut, L.A.’s oldest Tiki bar still in operation, and Idle Hour, a beautifully restored bar in a distinctive, barrel-shaped building. The 1941 building is one of the last remaining examples of “programmatic architecture”—and it’s the one with the best cocktails and small plates in town. Top off your Valley day with dancing at Oil Can Harry’s in Studio City; open since 1968, it’s an inclusive gay-andstraight cowboy club that, depending on the day, offers line dancing, salsa or disco.

94th Aero Squadron Restaurant 16320 Raymer St., Van Nuys, 818.994.7437, 94thvannuys.com / Bob’s Big Boy 4211 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.843.9334, bobs.net / Idle Hour 4824 Vineland Ave., 818.980.5604, idlehourbar.com / Oil Can Harry’s 11502 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.9749, oilcanharrysla.com / Tonga Hut 12808 Victory Blvd., North Hollywood, 818.769.0708, tongahut.com / Valley Relics Museum 7900 Balboa Blvd. (enter on Stagg Street), Van Nuys, 818.616.4083, valleyrelicsmuseum.org

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pacific time Fueled by the city’s diverse Asian communities and an innovative spirit, Los Angeles chefs reimagine centuries-old culinary traditions. by ROGER GRODY

A BONA FIDE PACIFIC RIM METROPOLIS, Los Angeles is economically and culturally connected to Asian capitals, and its hot dining scene teems with adventurous young chefs anxious to present their own interpretations of ancient Eastern cuisines. A respect for authenticity, a penchant for creativity and the blurring of borders between L.A.’s diverse ethnic neighborhoods all contribute to some of the most exciting Asian dining in America.

BURGERS AND TATER TOTS Culver City’s Ms Chi Cafe is the product of chef/co-owner Shirley Chung, a Bravo Top Chef runner-up, and husband Jimmy Lee, who oversees the front of the house. Here, the chef serves a progressive cuisine in which traditional Chinese techniques are applied to familiar American ingredients. Chung was born in Beijing but mastered classical technique working with Thomas Keller, Mario

Batali and José Andrés—mentors who also encouraged her creativity. Reprising one of her challenge-winning Top Chef dishes at Ms Chi Cafe, Chung offers jumbo cheeseburger pot stickers with tomato-bacon jam, encapsulating the flavors of an all-American burger in a pan-fried Chinese dumpling. She also creates a Pacific riff on tater tots and serves a hedgehogshaped bao filled with molten chocolate for

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dessert. For lunch, the chef presents Mr. Chi, an inspired pastrami-filled scallion-pancake sandwich. The Culver City space features both the buzz of a Chinese dumpling house and the casual vibe of an American diner, and adds an air of sophistication.

Krazy for Karaage Fried chicken—or karaage as it is known at any respectable izakaya—is as big a deal in Japan as it is in Georgia. Plenty of restaurants in L.A. execute this Japanese pub dish well, but the menu at downtown L.A.’s Pikunico totally revolves around karaage. A basket of chicken arrives with a choice of fingerling fries or ginger onigiri (pointy rice balls) along with assorted housemade pickles, ponzu, lemon aioli and sesame sauce. The restaurant is the brainchild of chef Kuniko Yagi, a protégé of David Myers and the opening executive chef at Hinoki & the

Bird. At Pikunico—the moniker combines “picnic” and the chef’s own name—the best techniques of Japanese and American cuisine have been adopted in pursuit of the perfect fried chicken, made with naturally and locally raised birds. Yagi, also a Top Chef contestant, channels her fine-dining experience into a simple, soulful, satisfying dish. Also offered are fried-chicken rice bowls and a crowdpleasing sandwich in which the golden fried bird is layered into a turmeric bun with pickled daikon, watercress, lemon aioli, jalapeno and miso jam. The setting is a casually upbeat space in Row DTLA, an ambitious mixed-use development in the burgeoning Arts District.

CAFÉ SOCIETY Amid a growing number of delightful drive-worthy eateries in rapidly gentrifying Echo Park—joining Valerie Confections, Cosa Buona and Tsubaki—is a discreet little

Japanese café called Konbi from young but seasoned restaurateurs Akira Akuto and Nick Montgomery. Inspired by fast-casual outlets in Tokyo, the narrow, clean-lined storefront with white ash accents and a counter along the open kitchen is only open during the day. But savvy locals find time to squeeze in layered omelette or pork-katsu sandwiches, as well as vegan dishes such as carrots with shishito-pistachio dip. The Japanese are wild about French desserts—iconic Parisian patisseries such as Pierre Hermé, Maison Kayser and Ladurée are easy to find in Tokyo—and Konbi offers plenty of freshly made pastries to choose from. Consider a chocolate croissant, hazelnut financier or canelé—a small caramelized rum cake from Bordeaux—with a deftly prepared espresso drink. Konbi’s takeout packaging reflects a sophistication in both branding and aesthetics.

Ma’am Sir in Silver Lake. Opposite: A dessert at Nightshade

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BLURRING BORDERS The latest in a flurry of anxiously anticipated openings in downtown’s restaurant-rich Arts District is Nightshade, where Top Chef champion Mei Lin has introduced a nuanced pan-Asian menu that draws on both Asian and European techniques. Mentored by the likes of Michael Symon, Wolfgang Puck and Michael Voltaggio, Lin has cooked from various points of view; at Nightshade, she finally cooks from her own unique perspective. Lin’s family heritage is Chinese, but in addition to dishes such as prawn toast with Cantonese curry or Szechuan-spiked quail—a play on Nashville hot chicken—she incorporates elements from Korean, Japanese, Thai and even Italian cuisines into her menu. Korean-spiced beef tartare and scallops in coconut vinaigrette are presented with genuine artistry as Lin moves seamlessly in and out of various cultural influences with considerable finesse. Much like the chef’s cuisine, the Arts District dining room is modern yet comforting; it features blond wood and marble finishes, an exhibition kitchen suitably illuminated like a beacon, and hanging plants that complement the emerald-green banquettes. The interior reflects little of the repurposed industrial building it occupies, and Lin’s creativity is equally transformative.

TOKYO VIA TUSCANY Japan and Italy both have centuries-old traditions of noodle-making, so it’s not a stretch for a talented chef to fuse these two great cuisines. At Blackship, executive chef Keiichi Kurobe, a former Hinoki & the Bird sous chef, has created a menu that showcases the best qualities of Italian and Japanese cuisines.

NEW AGE SUSHI AND SKEWERS When the number of neighborhood sushi bars hit a saturation point, L.A. diners discovered the incredible diversity of Japanese cuisine. Now, izakayas, ramen joints and shabu-shabu bars have found homes throughout the city. In downtown L.A.’s Arts District is Inko Nito, from influential German chef Rainer Becker, whose Japanese-inspired Zuma restaurants set trends from Las Vegas to Dubai, and New Zealand chef Hamish Brown. (A second Inko Nito recently shuttered on West 3rd Street.) In the Garey Street restaurant, the robata grill is showcased in a convivial space dressed in natural wood, custom-glazed handmade tiles, exposed beams, concrete and generous greenery. Inko Nito offers snacks such as furikakedusted Brussels sprouts with wasabi mayonnaise, and nigaki, a variation of sushi that sits atop an L-shaped piece of nori whose back end stands at attention. In addition to tofu karaage with miso mayo and Korean-influenced snacks, robatayaki—skewered items including spicy Japanese-whisky-glazed pork belly or Parmesan-crusted cauliflower cooked over Japanese charcoal—is central to the experience at Inko Nito.

THE FORGOTTEN CUISINE The Los Angeles metro area has the largest Filipino population outside of Manila, yet until very recently, the cooking of the Philippines had been neglected even as local chefs brought innovation to other Asian cuisines.

That is changing. Silver Lake’s Ma’am Sir is one of several new restaurants introducing modern Filipino cooking to the mainstream dining public. A satisfying initiation here begins with cocktails created from exotic ingredients such as coconut-banana shrub and Lambanog, a Filipino coconut spirit. At Ma’am Sir, chef/owner Charles Olalia— a former executive chef at Patina who has also worked with Guy Savoy and Thomas Keller—brings a refined technique to his native Filipino traditions. The chef elevates lumpia, the small spring rolls served in all Filipino eateries, by filling them with shrimp mousse and lardo sausage before topping them with uni; he presents a luxurious Filipino take on clam chowder. Anchored by a long bar on one side, Ma’am Sir is colorful and inviting, with vines hanging from a trellised ceiling and blondwood booths contributing to the laid-back, casual vibe. Chicken jiaozi at Ms Chi Cafe

L.A.-STYLE ASIAN CUISINE Blackship 8512 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood 310.734.7553, blackshipla.com Inko Nito 225-227 Garey St., downtown 310.999.0476, inkonitorestaurant.com Konbi 1463 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A. 213.278.0007, konbila.com Ma’am Sir 4330 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A. 323.741.8371, maamsirla.com Ms Chi Cafe 3829 Main St., Culver City 424.361.5225, mschicafe.com Nightshade 923 E. 3rd St., downtown 213.626.8888, nightshadela.com Pikunico 767 S. Alameda St., downtown 213.278.0407, pikunico.com

PREVIOUS SPREAD: NIGHTSHADE, WONHO FRANK LEE; MA'AM SIR, COURTESY FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH STUDIOS. THIS PAGE: YAGI, DYLAN + JENI; MS CHI CAFE, PORK BELLY STUDIO

Kuniko Yagi of Pikunico

Dishes such as hamachi Bolognese, gnocchi created with shungiku (chrysanthemum greens) in brown-butter dashi with pecorino, and ramen prepared carbonara-style with guanciale-style pork belly are imaginative yet relatable. Unlike some fusion concepts that appear contrived, these two cuisines have tremendous natural synergy. And the innovative fare can be washed down with either a Brunello di Montalcino or rare Japanese sake. Blackship offers a covered patio with a woodsy vibe and hanging plants; the muted interior reflects some nautical references— “blackships” were Western vessels arriving in Japan in the 16th and 19th centuries—and features a Carrara marble bar and contemporary lighting. Kurobe’s presentation style adds glamour to rustic concepts, enhancing a dining experience that, despite its unconventional pairing, feels very natural.

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WHERE ABOUTS

MARVIN BRAUDE BIKE TRAIL, PHOTO BY BROWN CANNON III/INTERSECTION PHOTOS

Los Angeles is the most populous county in the nation and among the most culturally diverse. Its 4,000 square miles encompass dozens of cities and more than 200 neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. The pages that follow will guide you through the most visited among them, pointing out starring attractions and uncovering hidden gems along the way.

CIT Y TOURS 18 22 26 30 34 38 42 44

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena The Valley South Bay

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THE MANSIONS

/ RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE / THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS / CENTURY CITY

BEVERLY HILLS Vongerichten, and beside it, the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out 30,000 square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

THE MANSIONS The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the opening of the Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of 35,000 is more socioeconomically diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts famous and fabulously wealthy residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the area, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Mansion, whose graceful cityowned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Cañon Drive. Alexander McQueen and Stuart Weitzman recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding shoppers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the

Italian-esque side street to fineart destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, which boasts dining concepts by chef Jean-Georges

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment businesses based here. Rub shoulders with the powerlunchers at E. Baldi, La Scala or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Cañon Drive. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Even more cultural programming can be found at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination. CENTURY CITY Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.7-square-mile modern acropolis of Century

great find

IN YOUR DREAMS Journey from Westfield Century City mall into outer space, the deep sea or unknown worlds with Dreamscape: a new, interactive virtual-reality experience that’s part Hollywood blockbuster, part theme-park ride. Adventures depart around every 30 minutes, in groups of up to six travelers. Where will you go? 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 424.603.2948, dreamscapeimmersive.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY BEVERLY HILLS CONFERENCE AND VISITORS BUREAU; COURTESY DREAMSCAPE IMMERSIVE. OPPOSITE: MATT HARTMAN

It’s only 5 square miles, but Beverly Hills looms large in pop culture as a posh locale that’s home to some of the priciest mansions in L.A. County, not to mention the country’s most recognizable ZIP code. Rodeo Drive, perhaps the world’s most famous shopping street, offers virtually every luxury fashion brand.

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NEW IN TOWN Pikoh

Chef Ricardo Zarate follows up Rosaliné with this Westside spot offering a diverse selection of international flavors. 11940 Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.928.9344

Simonette

The cafe and bar in the leafy courtyard of the hip Palihotel serves an all-day menu, weekend brunch and latenight eats. 3927 Van Buren Place, Culver City, 424.321.8000

Towne by Elyse Walker

Shop stylish luxury basics for women and men at the fashionista’s outpost in Bel-Air. 2950 Beverly Glen Circle, L.A., 310.554.7999

Storefronts along North Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Opposite, from left: Two Rodeo; a signpost at the intersection of luxury and commerce WHERE LOS ANGELES 19

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/ WESTWOOD VILLAGE / CULVER CITY

Platform in Culver City

City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are a Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which recently unveiled dozens of new boutiques and eateries after a dramatic redevelopment. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, the latter of which is in the residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA A few miles northeast of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D.

Murphy Sculpture Garden on the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens. The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings, as well as cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE Just south of the campus, the pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with bars and restaurants including Italian spot AR Cucina and seasonal California restaurant the Wallace. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. As you travel east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the Helms Bakery complex, which contains dozens of high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 30 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. Near the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is the ultra-hip Platform lifestyle complex, plus a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent expansion, connects downtown L.A. and Santa Monica. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose city seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios opened on Washington; in 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including Singin’ in the Rain and The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, and the site is home to Sony Pictures Studios, where such hits as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! are taped. Experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.

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Ladurée macarons

insider tips

THE SWEET LIFE Beverly Hills boasts beaucoup European-style patisseries and cafes. Chaumont 143 S. Beverly Drive, 310.550.5510 Ladurée 311 N. Beverly Drive, 310.623.1100 La Provence Patisserie & Café 8950 W. Olympic Blvd., 310.888.8833 Le Pain Quotidien 9630 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.859.1100 Le Mervetty 319 N. Cañon Drive, 310.804.9409 ’Lette Macarons 9466 Charleville Blvd., 310.275.0023 Oro Caffé 9559 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.888.8714 Tarte Tatin Bakery & Cafe 200 S. Beverly Drive, 424.777.0033

FROM LEFT: BENNY CHAN; COURTESY LADURÉE

UCLA

Ta 01

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WESTFIELD CENTURY CIT Y LOS ANGELES 310.919.5557

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THIRD STREET + THE PIER

/ MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE / THE ARTS / MALIBU

SANTA MONICA THE ARTS Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in an angular concrete structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s firstrate, 499-seat performing-arts, film, dance and theater venue. On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center— now a stop on the Expo Line— has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to about 30 galleries and a café. THIRD STREET + THE PIER Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, perpetually teems with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at two cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists. If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to the Independence or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at The Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats. Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the toplevel Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles.

Santa Monica Pier, built in 1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V. and Malin+Goetz.

Father’s Office is known for its burgers, and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era home, as is the aptly named Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

MALIBU A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrityhome central continues today.

great find

DO-GOOD DECOR Vogue-approved, San Francisco-based luxury home-decor store St. Frank has a new L.A. outpost at Palisades Village, offering what it dubs “sustainably sourced and produced home goods for the conscious millennial”—e.g., Gary Linden surfboards sporting a vintage Miao textile print and Kuba cloth throw pillows (left). 15259 Palisades Village Lane, L.A., 424.268.7200, stfrank.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY SANTA MONICA PLACE; DALE BERMAN; COURTESY ST. FRANK. OPPOSITE: BROWN CANNON III/INTERSECTION PHOTOS

In the 1800s, orator Tom Fitch called Santa Monica “the Zenith City by the Sunset Sea.” The 21st-century version of Santa Monica fulfills its early promise, with a bustling downtown and beach that attract millions of visitors per year. Pacific Coast Highway connects SaMo with draws such as Malibu and Marina del Rey.

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NEW IN TOWN Chulita

Serving a modern take on Mexican cuisine and cocktails, this cafe is perfect for peoplewatching in trendy Venice. 533 Rose Ave., L.A., 424.252.9886

Jon & Vinny’s

Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s popular all-day eatery brings its Italian fare to Brentwood—be sure to order the L.A. Woman pizza. 11938 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.442.2733

Veronica Beard

The stylish lifestyle brand behind the Dickey Jacket sets up shop in upscale celebrity hideaway Pacific Palisades. 15225 Palisades Village Lane, L.A., 323.525.1380

Santa Monica State Beach. Opposite, from left: Santa Monica Place’s Dining Deck; Abbot Kinney Boulevard WHERE LOS ANGELES 23

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/ VENICE / BRENTWOOD / MARINA DEL REY

The Getty Villa

Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon. Inland, nearing Calabasas, is wine country, where you can sample the local vino at tasting rooms such as Malibu Wines.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking

trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades, south of Topanga on PCH and accessed from Temescal Canyon Road. Hikers love the shady trails in Temescal Gateway Park, and cafés and upscale mom-and-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a lush garden and koi- and swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

VENICE Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still

there, lined with multimilliondollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Bazar, Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose CaféRestaurant and Café Gratitude, plus a smattering of hip shops including Parachute and Monrow. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, what with performers, vendors and Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

BRENTWOOD Marilyn Monroe once called this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite celebrity stomping ground. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with copious independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The petite Brentwood Country Mart, a charming open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that boasts J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection and a beautiful Central Garden. MARINA DEL REY Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors assorted ways to get out on the water.

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Cushnie x Carbon38

insider tips

FIT & FINE Sweat in style wearing the latest from these fitness-apparel shops. ALO Yoga 1422 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 424.252.2660 and Palisades Village, 1060 Swarthmore Ave., L.A., 424.223.5707 Athleta 1318 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.3040 Avocado 1348 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.452.1968 and 1239 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 424.744.7747 Carbon38 Palisades Village, 15273 Palisades Village Lane, L.A., 310.300.3806 Sweaty Betty 1308 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.260.4998 and 1112 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.3675 Vimmia 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Suite 116, Brentwood, 424.208.3532

FROM LEFT: COURTESY GETTY VILLA; COURTESY CARBON38

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES

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Time-tested for 85 years and counting. Since 1934, The Original Farmers Market has been L . A .’s favorite gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. This living time capsule of Los Angeles history and culture is home to over 100 artisan grocers, eclectic shops and world-class eateries. No wonder it endures as one of L.A.’s favorite places to grab a bite, find the perfect souvenir and make a memory. Open daily.

6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES 323.933.9211 • FARMERSMARKETLA.COM #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta

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SUNSET STRIP

/ SUNSET PLAZA / MELROSE AVENUE / WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT

WEST HOLLYWOOD

SUNSET STRIP After dark, this iconic strip of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Boulevard becomes one of the hottest stretches of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Newer nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase leading names and emerging stars in stand-up, and restaurants such as Estrella and Boa Steakhouse offer upscale fare. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic. Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted

into the Tower Bar. And across the street, the property once known as “Riot Hyatt,” thanks to overzealous guests like Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones and Guns N’ Roses, is now the chic Andaz West Hollywood.

SUNSET PLAZA Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s Euro Zone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian

than Valley girl. For up-tothe-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/ Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington. Then, refuel at Obicà Mozzarella Bar or Le Petit Four.

MELROSE AVENUE Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has mul-

tiple personalities. One part of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-block stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up at chic Nine Zero One salon and cutting-edge boutiques such as Irene Neuwirth, Mansur Gavriel and the Apartment by the Line.

WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its offerings are a new Acne Studios flagship and RH: The Gallery on Melrose Avenue. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex— monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect Cesar Pelli—which

great find

SISTER ACT Gabriela Artigas’ sculptural jewelry has charmed style-setters, celebs and LACMA, which tapped the Mexico City-bred, L.A.-based designer for a collection. Now, she and sister/partner Tere have opened their first store, Gabriela Artigas & Company, featuring their jewelry (including signature Tusk designs) and home accessories. 7970 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.424.4345, gabrielaartigas.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; COURTESY OLE HENRIKSEN; COURTESY GABRIELA ARTIGAS & CO. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

For a municipality measuring less than 2 square miles and with fewer than 35,000 residents, West Hollywood wields enormous influence over the L.A. lifestyle. With a number of world-class art galleries, boutiques, restaurants, nightclubs and theaters, it’s a frequent destination for locals and tourists alike.

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NEW IN TOWN Kass Wine Bar & Restaurant

Michelin-starred chef Christophe Émé’s latest venture serves fresh, seasonal California fare to pair with an extensive wine list. 320 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.413.2299

Skin Camp

L.A.-based brand Skin Gym’s first facial bar offers on-the-go “workouts for your face” in a pretty pink space. 8240 Beverly Blvd., Suite 3, L.A., 323.452.9667

Tesse Cafe

This cafe and bakery inside Fred Segal is adjacent to its acclaimed sister French restaurant. 8500 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.3866

The Grove. Opposite, from left: Robertson Boulevard; Ole Henriksen Face/Body Spa WHERE LOS ANGELES 27

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/ ROBERTSON BOULEVARD / FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE

The Petersen Automotive Museum

houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners and contains a satellite of downtown’s Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA) and a stylish Wolfgang Puck eatery, Red Seven.

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD Robertson Boulevard is no longer a paparazzi magnet, but it’s still home to shops that appeal to the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts, Peri.A for trend-driven looks and Kitson and Kitson Kids for L.A.-inspired gifts. A Chanel concept store and edgy multibrand boutique Curve illustrate the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. Between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail at Bibo Ergo Sum or crab cakes on the picket-fenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele. The District by Hannah An and Cecconi’s, popular for power lunches, are just off Robertson.

WFOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGES 76-77.

insider tips

SELFIE SERVICE Strike a pose in front of the area’s oh-so’grammable backdrops.

Alfred in the Alley 8509 Melrose Place, L.A. Chris Burden’s Urban Light at LACMA 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A. Colette Miller Angel Wings 8401 W. 3rd St., L.A. Hello mural at Carrera Cafe 8251 Melrose Ave., L.A. Made in L.A. mural 8025 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood Marisabel Bazan’s Dance of the Butterflies mural 621 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood (pictured above) Michael Turchin’s Dirty Pop mural at Mondrian 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood Paul Smith’s Pink Wall 8221 Melrose Ave., L.A. RETNA mural 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing and accessories designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which just underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation. Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci and Jimmy Choo boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments. On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as OK for design-oriented gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary

menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and modern Israeli restaurant Jaffa. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals.

FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring Mid-Wilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/ West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive. Additional venues on this Museum Row include the renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and Craft Contemporary. South of the museums is a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where traditional restaurants are located. To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with dining spots like Odys + Penelope and La Brea Bakery and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, pizzerias and a stand with authentic Louisiana gumbo. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrianonly shopping center. The Grove has the character of an oldfashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple and Elizabeth and James are joined by myriad restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel (inventor of the Cronut).

FROM LEFT: MATT HARTMAN; LINDA TOL, COURTESY VISIT WEST HOLLYWOOD

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD

W sho a st m sho

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3rdStree

With over 75 destination shops, acclaimed restaurants and independent specialty stores West 3rd Street is the most walkable dining and shopping district in the center of Los Angeles.

Comprised of six connecting blocks between La Cienega Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue, West 3rd Street is just moments from The Grove, The Original Farmers Market, The Beverly Center and The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA).

A WALKABLE DINING & SHOPPING DISTRICT “Between La Cienega and Fairfax”

@WESTTHIRDSTREET

www.west3rdstreet.com

WOMEN Alexis Bittar . . . . . . . . . . . C August . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Bead Boutique (+ Men) . E Bedhead Pajamas . . . . . Q Elaine Kim . . . . . . . . . . . . C KFK Jewelers . . . . . . . . . E M. Cohen Designs (+ Men) . . . . . . . . . . . Q Mom’s the Word . . . . . . U Monserat De Lucca . . . . .P 6 Nathalie Seaver Boutique . . . . . . . . . . Q NFP New Form Perspective . . . . . . . R noodle stories . . . . . . . . . E Parliament . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Polkadots & Moonbeams . . . . . . . C 2 Pyrrha . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Ragdoll LA . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Raquel Allegra . . . . . . . . Q Shopaholic Sample Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .T Wardrobe Department . Q

JAFFA

PYRRHA

WITTMORE

8048 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 433-4978 jaffa.la

8315 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

8236 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 782-9791 shopwittmore.com

HOME & GIFTS Aero Shade Co Inc . . . . .P Allan Jeffries Framing . . E Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Craft in America Center . . . . . . . . . . . . B Freehand Gallery . . . . . . B M. Cohen Designs. . . . . Q Michael Hittleman Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . B MUD Australia . . . . . . . . . R New Stone Age . . . . . . . B Portola Paints & Glazes . G Vintageweave Interiors. U MEN Douglas Fir . . . . . . . . . . . E Lot Stock and Barrel . . . C M. Cohen Designs. . . . . Q 1 Wittmore . . . . . . . . . . R KIDS Eggy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Youth Academy of Dramatic Arts . . . . . . J

3 DAN DEUTSCH OPTICAL OUTLOOK

THE ORLANDO HOTEL

NATHALIE SEAVER FRENCH STYLE BOUTIQUE

8358 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 658-6181 dandeutschopticaloutlook.com

8384 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com

8360 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 653-8286 maison-nathalie.com

PETS Vanderpump Dogs . . . . .S

FA I R FA X AV E N U E

FOOD & DRINK Belcampo Meat Co . . . . K Berri’s Cafe on Third . . . .P Blending Lab. . . . . . . . . . U Carmela Ice Cream. . . . U Cleo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q El Carmen . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Electric Karma . . . . . . . . R Gelataria Uli . . . . . . . . . . .T Goal Sports Cafe . . . . . . Q Gusto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .T Inko Nito . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q 4 JAFFA . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Joan’s on Third. . . . . . . . Q The Little Door . . . . . . . . .S The Little Next Door . . . .S Magnolia Bakery. . . . . . . C Mainland Poke . . . . . . . . Q Mama’s Secret Bakery & Cafe . . . . . Q Matcha Box . . . . . . . . . . . .T Mercado . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Plancha Tacos . . . . . . . . . R Prime Cutts . . . . . . . . . . . Q Quality Food & Beverage . . . . . . . . .T Simplethings Restaurant . . . . . . . . . Q Sockerbit . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Son of a Gun . . . . . . . . . . Q Sweetfin Poke . . . . . . . . . K Sweetgreen . . . . . . . . . . K Toast Bakery Cafe . . . . . G Verve Coffee Roasters . K

H AY W O R T H AV E N U E

OPTICAL & SERVICES 3 Dan Deutsch Optical Outlook. . . . Q Gogosha Optique . . . . . R 5 Orlando Hotel . . . . . . Q uBreakiFix . . . . . . . . . . . . Q

EDINBURGH AVENUE

LAUREL AVENUE

S TRE ET

CRESCENT HEIGHTS BOULEVARD

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LA JOLLA AVENUE

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SWEETZER AVENUE

FLORES STREET

KINGS ROAD

ORLANDO AVENUE

CROFT AVENUE

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

BEAUTY & FITNESS Aesop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q AIR - Aerial Fitness . . . . . .P AuraCycle . . . . . . . . . . . . .F The Bar Method . . . . . . . .P Benefit Cosmetics . . . . . C Clark Nova Salon . . . . . . .S Credo Beauty . . . . . . . . . E Drybar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C

BEAUTY & FITNESS (cont.) Face Haus . . . . . . . . . . . . C Glamour Beauty Center . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Murad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G SkinSense Wellness Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Spoke & Weal . . . . . . . . . G Swerve Studio. . . . . . . . . R Taboo Hair Care . . . . . . . .P Uvasun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R

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HOLLYWOOD & HIGHLAND

/ SHOWTIME / WALK OF FAME / MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE / AROUND VINE

HOLLYWOOD “Hollywood is a state of mind” was a popular refrain when this legendary area of Los Angeles experienced a decline not long ago. But with hot new boutiques, restaurants, hotels and condos sprouting up, it has re-emerged as a bona fide destination, where throngs of international visitors mingle with colorful locals.

HOLLYWOOD & HIGHLAND Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the annual Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Lucky Strike Live, dining spots and unique shops and boutiques. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity hand- and footprints embedded in the concrete out front. SHOWTIME Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the

studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre— built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre regularly stages megahit musicals (such as The Book of Mormon and Hamilton), and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

WALK OF FAME The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks— Pee-wee Herman has a star, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hollywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of

MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift and Jason Derulo. You can ponder zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Record Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio. AROUND VINE The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large

great find

FRAZZLED, NEVERMORE Weary of life in the fast lane? The Raven Spa is an off-ramp. Among the signature services at this Silver Lake retreat are infrared sauna treatments, acupuncture and the head-to-toe Rock Star treatment, which includes a salt scrub, traditional Thai massage and an all-natural facial mask. (Westsiders, there’s a Santa Monica location, too.) 2910 Rowena Ave., L.A., 323.644.0240, theravenspa.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: EDWIN SANTIAGO; MATT HARTMAN; COURTESY THE RAVEN SPA. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

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NEW IN TOWN Alter

The beloved Brooklyn boutique brings its well-curated collection of clothing and accessories for both men and women to trendy Silver Lake. 3333 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.486.7252

Inn Ann at Japan House

Tucked inside bustling Hollywood & Highland, Inn Ann (“hidden retreat”) serves seasonal Japanese dinner and drinks. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., fifth floor, L.A., 323.677.5557

Randy’s Donuts

Try the Hollywood Star, a tasty treat only found at this new branch of the L.A. icon famous for its giant rooftop doughnut. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.645.7149

Hollywood Pantages Theatre. Opposite, from left: Hollywood & Highland; an exhibit at the Hollywood Museum

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/ LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE / GRIFFITH PARK

The Autry Museum of the American West in Griffith Park

concentration of entertainmentindustry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences and its Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Hollywood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across Hollywood Boulevard is dance club Avalon Hollywood; across Vine Street is chic Japanese restaurant Katsuya. Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse the aisles through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia. A couple of blocks west is Space 15 Twenty, an Urban Outfitters retail concept/minicomplex that caters to shoppers with an outsize UO store and space for art, events, performances and pop-up shops.

NIGHT CRAWLING The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife, and a lively bar-and-club scene permeates the district. On and around Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at the librarythemed Study Hollywood, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to clubs and eateries, including Tao Group’s Beauty & Essex at the new Dream hotel. Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is among the most memorable experiences in L.A. LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county (and perhaps the country). Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los

Feliz, presents a collection of shops and restaurants that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Lounges such as Rockwell represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Soap Plant/Wacko and Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House. At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at casual Forage or the Cheese Store of Silverlake, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

GRIFFITH PARK Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,700-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

WFOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE. FOR NEIGHBORHOOD MAPS, SEE PAGES 77-78.

Stahl House

insider tips

HOUSE HUNTERS The Eastside is full of architectural stars, but please check before stopping by—only a few offer public access. Bubeshko Apartments 2036-2046 Griffith Park Blvd., Silver Lake The Ennis House 2607 Glendower Ave., Los Feliz Neutra VDL House 2300 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, neutra-vdl.org (tours offered) Hollyhock House 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.988.0516 (tours offered) The Paramour Estate 1923 Micheltorena St., Silver Lake, 213.999.0920 The Sowden House 5121 Franklin Ave., Los Feliz Stahl House 1635 Woods Drive, L.A., 208.429.1058 (prepaid tour reservations required) Silvertop 2138 Micheltorena St., Silver Lake

FROM LEFT: COURTESY THE AUTRY; PHOTO BY FRANK ZHANG ON UNSPLASH

NIGHT CRAWLING

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*Does not apply to food and retail locations. HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are © & ™ Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s19) ©2019 Universal Studios. All Rights Reserved. 18-ADV-25988

SPECS:

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UNION STATION

/ GRAND AVENUE / BUNKER HILL / OLVERA STREET / HISTORIC DISTRICTS

DOWNTOWN With new restaurants and shops opening daily, downtown Los Angeles could not be hotter. Historic art deco structures share the streetscape with glass-clad towers, and even movie stars are snapping up lofts in century-old buildings. The arts scene roars to life here, where the laid-back image of L.A. hardly applies.

UNION STATION Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 79-yearold station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or the Expo Line to Santa Monica. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys. GRAND AVENUE The heart of L.A.’s performingarts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a

formidable collection of stages at the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming. After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park,

between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.

BUNKER HILL Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect José Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe Broad. Both sites house premier collections of contemporary art. The Omni Hotel and California Plaza are adjacent to MOCA.

OLVERA STREET The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781, is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents. HISTORIC DISTRICTS Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theatre District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel),

great find

HAUS AND HEM Stockholm-based design brand Hem’s first permanent U.S. showroom, shared with wood-flooring company Madera, is a bright new spot downtown. Hem x Madera welcomes visitors with a coral facade and Clark Thenhaus’ Confetti Courtyard installation, then invites them to shop for modern furniture, lighting and accessories. By appointment. 810 Mateo St., L.A., 310.980.3029, us.hem.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: IWAN BAAN; DALE BERMAN; LAUREN MOORE. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (seen in La La Land) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, reopened recently after repairs. Farther down Grand, at 5th Street, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, site of the OUE Skyspace LA attraction. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

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New In Town Free Play

Chef Tim Hollingsworth’s expansive sports bar/restaurant above the Fields food hall near USC features retro arcade and pinball games. 3939 S. Figueroa St., L.A., 213.419.9481

Uniqlo the Bloc

The Japanese apparel giant specializing in affordable everyday essentials anchors the reimagined open-air Bloc, which occupies a full downtown city block. 700 Flower St., Suite S100, L.A., 877.486.4756

Upstage Burger

Grab a grass-fed burger, made-to-order sandwiches, fries and an ice-cream float at this fast-casual eatery located at the Music Center. 135 N. Grand Ave., L.A., 213.972.8000

Grand Park. Opposite, from left: The Broad museum; Mark Taper Forum at the Music Center

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/ CHINATOWN / LITTLE TOKYO / L.A. LIVE / EXPOSITION PARK American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s east is the Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; galleries including Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as The Factory Kitchen, Brera Ristorante and Bestia.

Row DTLA lifestyle complex, near the Arts District

have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, constructed in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner. Spring Street from 4th to 7th streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center is still evident in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors

and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the Figat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.

CHINATOWN Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at foodie-favorite spots like Howlin’ Ray’s and Baohaus or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple. Pedestrian-friendly Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to hip galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings. LITTLE TOKYO Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to seasonal small plates at Baldoria. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese

L.A. LIVE The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-ofthe-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myriad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues— WP24, Katsuya and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here. EXPOSITION PARK Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, temporary home of the L.A. Rams. The California African American Museum delves into black history, and the beauxarts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3-D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

WF O R B O L D I T E M S , S E E W H E R E G U I D E . F O R A N E I G H B O R H O O D M A P, S E E P A G E 7 7.

Pocket Square Clothing

insider tips

URBAN STYLE These fashionable menswear shops keep L.A.’s downtown crowd looking on point. 3.1 Phillip Lim 734 E. 3rd St., 213.246.2588 ACNE 855 S. Broadway, 213.243.0960 Apolis Alchemy Works, 826 E. 3rd St., 855.894.1559 Dover Street Market L.A. 606-608 Imperial St., 310.427.7610 Pocket Square Clothing 205 W. 7th St., 213.375.5111 ROW DTLA (Bodega, 13 Bonaparte, etc.) 777 Alameda St. SKINGRAFT 758 S. Spring St., 213.626.2662 Visvim Exposition 304 S. Broadway, Suite 218, 213.265.7901 Wittmore 300 S. Santa Fe Ave., Suite X, 213.626.0780

FROM LEFT: KATIE GIBBS; COURTESY POCKET SQUARE CLOTHING

SHOPPING DISTRICTS

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11292_

JEWELRY PAVILION The Bloc 750 W. 7th Street Los Angeles, CA 90017 (213) 627-4515

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2/13/19 3:44 PM 2/8/19 9:41 AM

OLD PASADENA

/ PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE / SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY

PASADENA Minutes from downtown L.A. via the Arroyo Seco Parkway (Pasadena Freeway) or the Metro Gold Line commuter train is Pasadena. Its architectural pedigree is world-class, and renowned institutions including the Tournament of Roses and Caltech lend it cachet. The city’s diverse neighbors are also worth discovering.

OLD PASADENA A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to H&M, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Vince and Gold Bug draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-the-art technology, plush seats and a bar/café. Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the

West. The galleries are filled with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters (e.g., Monet, Cézanne, Van Gogh) is formidable. A sculpture garden features a major tribute to Degas. East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art house cinema, antique shops and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House Comedy Club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld. Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum. East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at

SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art. A library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen and Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,200 rose varieties.

great find

RARE READS Bibliophiles have a new haven in Old Town Pasadena. Antiquarian dealer Dan Whitmore’s Whitmore Rare Books has opened a brickand-mortar shop—a treasure trove of books ranging from a first edition of The Catcher in the Rye to a 1632 original Shakespeare folio, as well as pop culture items like a signed photo of Jim Morrison. 121 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.714.7720, whitmorerarebooks.com

TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN; BOTTOM: SHEENA LAD. OPPOSITE: DALE BERMAN

the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

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NEW IN TOWN Hinterhof

This vegan, Germanstyle beer hall with outdoor seating fits in perfectly in trendy, upand-coming Highland Park. 4939 York Blvd., L.A., 323.739.0209

Millie’s

This offshoot of the nearly century-old all-day breakfast spot may be new, but the made-from-scratch recipes remain the same. 1399 E. Washington Blvd., Pasadena, 626.486.2407

Warby Parker

The eyewear brand brings its full selection of fashionable frames to the heart of Old Pasadena. 106 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.465.7911

Pasadena’s Colorado Bridge. Opposite, from left: Pasadena City Hall; Huntington Gardens WHERE LOS ANGELES 39

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/ EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

The Gamble House

Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia, home to Santa Anita Park, a storied thoroughbred-horse-racing venue. Arcadia is also home to the 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants. This means the opportunity for enjoying Asian cuisine is virtually unrivaled in Southern California. Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith can explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the rugged San Gabriel Mountains present hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

SOUTH PASADENA The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House), which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915.

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College— where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate. On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County. There, office workers pour out of highrises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Stylesavvy shoppers can browse in boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak. Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Blocks from the Alex is the Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft. North of Glendale is Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.

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Camellias at Descanso Gardens

insider tips

GARDEN PARTY Spring has sprung in local gardens. Arlington Garden 275 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, 626.578.5434 Descanso Gardens 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 The Huntington 1151 Oxford Rd., San Marino, 626.405.2100 Los Angeles County Arboretum and Botanic Garden 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222 Norton Simon Museum 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840 Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden 270 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, 626.399.1721 Tournament House & Wrigley Gardens 391 S. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.4100 Whispering Pine Tea House 1601 W. Mountain St., Glendale, 818.548.3782

FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; DANIELLE BEDICS-ARIZALA

SOUTH PASADENA

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HOLLYWOOD MADE HERE BOOK ONLINE AND SAVE

a© & TM WBEI. WONDER WOMAN and all related characters and elements are © & TM DC Comics and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. (s19) HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are © & TM Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s19)

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UNIVERSAL CITY

/ BURBANK / NORTH HOLLYWOOD / VENTURA BOULEVARD / DEEP IN THE VALLEY

THE VALLEY

UNIVERSAL CITY A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfield-themed “world.” Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park. Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and the latest films at the state-of-the-art Universal Cinema. Restaurants include

Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen, chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut.

BURBANK Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. The city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio. Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of

your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday. Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw. More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the country’s largest Ikea,

but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with shops and trendy bistros such as Granville. Another mustvisit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Slone Vintage are favorites). Always-packed Porto’s Bakery offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba. Do you like the outdoors? Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses. And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series. If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for uncongested Hollywood Burbank Airport. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and

great find

VALLEY VINO Tucked into an unassuming stretch of Valley Village is intimate wine bar Mirabelle. Inside the candle-lit spot, find eclectic wines and old-school ’80s tunes played through the bar’s vintage cassette player. Stop by on Thursdays for chef-crafted grilled cheese and one of 60 wines by the glass—perfect for a low-key date night. 12518 Burbank Blvd., Valley Village, 818.927.4241, mirabellewinebarla.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DALE BERMAN (2); COURTESY MIRABELLE WINE BAR. OPPOSITE, FROM LEFT: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY GARRY MARSHALL THEATRE

The Valley is a sprawling collection of communities, each with its own attractions and charms. Immortalized in movies as diverse as Chinatown and Valley Girl, the area derives its name from Mission San Fernando Rey de España, the historic landmark on the Valley’s northernmost edge.

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Hogwarts Castle at Universal Studios Hollywood. Opposite, from left: Downtown Burbank; Idle Hour in North Hollywood

is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

NORTH HOLLYWOOD North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub, and Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village. From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Holly-

wood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

VENTURA BOULEVARD This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene. In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, newer favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abundance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s and featuring upscale boutiques. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its family-oriented lifestyle.

DEEP IN THE VALLEY Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques, including Louis Vuitton and David Yurman. The Village outdoor lifestyle destination expands the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room. Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant open-air destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons. Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster lovers gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

insider tips

SHOWTIME Get in on the act at the Valley’s performing-arts venues. The Colony Theatre 555 N. Third St., Burbank, 818.558.7000 Crown City Theatre 11031 Camarillo St., North Hollywood, 818.605.5685 El Portal Theatre 5269 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, 818.508.4200 Garry Marshall Theatre 4252 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.955.8101 Simi Valley Cultural Arts Center 3050 E. Los Angeles Ave., 805.583.7900 The Soraya at CSUN 18111 Nordhoff St., Northridge, 818.677.3000 Thousand Oaks Civic Arts Plaza 2100 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., 805.449.2787 Whitefire Theatre 13500 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.687.8559

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MANHATTAN BEACH

/ HERMOSA BEACH / REDONDO BEACH

SOUTH BAY the Comedy & Magic Club Sunday nights. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and the Hook & Plow are standouts among the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue. Farther east, Becker’s carries surfboards and beachwear.

MANHATTAN BEACH Less than 5 miles south of LAX, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers exported it to Waikiki Beach in the 1920s. Laid-back Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You might spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. The city’s picturesque pier, with its newly modernized Roundhouse Aquarium, features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is diehard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for watersports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as Fishing With Dynamite, Love & Salt,

Little Sister and The Strand House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering place, with shops like the Beehive and hot spots including Zinc at Shade hotel. Between Manhattan Beach and LAX to the north is El Segundo, an industrial city with a quaint downtown and upscale shopping and dining centers including The Point.

HERMOSA BEACH Head south on Manhattan Avenue to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa

shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including its own scenic stretch of beach punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at the foot of the pier becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s Tavern and Tower 12. Close to Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to

REDONDO BEACH The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offer fishing excursions and whalewatching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier attracts locals and visitors with quick-and-casual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the

great find

PERFORMANCE REVIEW Whether you’re into yoga, surfing, running or just running around town, Vuori has you covered. Favorite styles at the Encinitas, CAbased activewear brand’s Manhattan Beach shop include men’s multisport Kore shorts and women’s performance joggers, made for“next-level comfort.” Lounging is a sport, right? 1100 Manhattan Ave., Suite 104, Manhattan Beach, 310.372.1518, vuoriclothing.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY L.A. COUNTY DEPT. OF BEACHES & HARBORS; COURTESY AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC; PIDOT STUDIOS. OPPOSITE: EDWIN SANTIAGO

In the South Bay, the cities of Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach and Redondo Beach occupy an idyllic coastal stretch known for surfing and volleyball. To the north is El Segundo; to the south are the beautiful bluffs of the Palos Verdes Peninsula and the bustling waterfronts of San Pedro and Long Beach.

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NEW IN TOWN Muodu Shanghai Cuisine

This family-run holein-the-wall is turning heads for its dumplings, soups and inventive spins on Chinese fare. 2418 Lomita Blvd., Suite A, Lomita, 424.263.5530

San Pedro Fish Market Grille

The legendary waterfront giant is serving up its famously fresh fish at a new fast-casual concept. 1313 Sepulveda Blvd., Harbor City, 424.263.5864

SusieCakes

The bakery known for its sky-high six-layer cakes, pies and cookies opens its doors at the Long Beach Exchange shopping hub. 4201 McGowen St., Suite 220, Long Beach, 562.379.2253

The Redondo Beach Pier. Opposite, from left: The Manhattan Beach Pier; an exhibit at the Aquarium of the Pacific WHERE LOS ANGELES 45

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/ SAN PEDRO / LONG BEACH miles south is the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex, which includes a marina, the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach— one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

Santa Catalina Island

gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a year-round attraction featuring 200,000 plants. Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular graywhale-watching site. Just past the adjacent Point Vicente Light-

house is the Mediterranean-style Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-squarefoot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

SAN PEDRO The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and brewery. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors. More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annually; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turned-museum Battleship USS Iowa. A few

LONG BEACH In the county’s southwestern corner, Long Beach is home to a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, the Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kitesurfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage-furniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting where Linden Avenue meets Broadway. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art.

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Madre

insider tips

¡VAMOS A COMER! For muy deliciosa Mexican fare, sit down at one of these local faves. Madre 1261 Cabrillo Ave., Suite 100, Torrance, 310.974.8005 Ortega 120 1814 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.792.4120 Palmilla Cocina y Tequila 39 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.977.7939 Pancho’s 3615 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.6670 Panxa Cocina 3937 E. Broadway, Long Beach, 562.433.7999 Sausal 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721 Sion’s 235 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.372.4504 Zacatecas Restaurant 13737 S. Inglewood Ave., Suite 9, Hawthorne, 310.679.5161

FROM LEFT: NIAZ UDDIN; COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA

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47100_

THE ULTIMATE SHOPPING EXPERIENCE AN EXTRAORDINARY COLLECTION OF 250 BOUTIQUES AND 30 RESTAURANTS Alexander McQueen · Anthropologie · Apple · Aquazzura · Bally · Bottega Veneta · Cartier Celine · Chanel · Christian Louboutin · Dior · Dior Men · Dolce&Gabbana · Gianvito Rossi Givenchy · Golden Goose · Gucci · Hugo · John Hardy · Lafayette 148 New York · Louis Vuitton Maje · Max Mara · Microsoft · Moynat · Porsche Design · Prada · Roberto Cavalli Saint Laurent · Sandro · Stella McCartney · Tiffany & Co. · Valentino · Weekend Max Mara Din Tai Fung · Hamamori Restaurant & Sushi Bar · Seasons 52 · Terrace by Mix Mix · Vaca · Water Grill partial listing

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SOUTHCOASTPLAZA.COM 800.782.8888

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/ DINING AMERICAN 71ABOVE In addition to skyline views, expect elevated modern American dishes (e.g., farm egg with crispy potato, chorizo, raclette, lime and cilantro) at this restaurant on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus are offered in the main dining room and several private dining spaces. L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st Floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 $$$$ Map H16 ANIMAL This bare-bones eatery, from the guys known to Food Network fans as the “Two Dudes,” is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal (such as crispy pig ear). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 $$$ Map I13 BARTON G. THE RESTAURANT The Los Angeles location of Barton G. Weiss’ Miami Beach restaurant offers fun, showstopping food presentations in a fine-dining setting, making each meal an experience. Favorites include the Laughing Bird Popcorn Shrimp and cotton-candy dessert Marie Antoinette’s Head. D (nightly). 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.388.1888 $$$ Map I12

A Slice of Italy Alongside its popular Italian eateries the Factory Kitchen (p. 50) and the newly renamed Brera Ristorante (p. 50, formerly Officine Brera), Factory Place Hospitality Group has opened a third spot—which shares Brera’s expansive warehouse space—in downtown’s thriving Arts District. Sixth+Mill Pizzeria and Bar’s signature dishes reflect culinary director Angelo Auriana’s Southern Italian heritage— small plates, fritters, durum wheat pastas and, of course, Neapolitan-style wood-fired pizza, carefully baked to a flavorful crisp. The menu is complemented by an affordable wine list, draft beers and craft cocktails—including the spicy vodka Malafemmena (named for the famous Italian song). Buon appetito! 1335 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.629.3000, sixthandmill.com

CASTAWAY Burbank’s fine-dining restaurant boasts expansive views of the Valley, plus a new design and steak-forward menu from Cutthroat Kitchen winner Perry Pollaci. D (nightly), Br (Sa–Su). 1250 E. Harvard Road, Burbank, 818.848.6691 $$$ Map north of W21 CATTLE & CLAW Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ pop-up restaurant is a casual-cool spot where diners can enjoy two of the world’s favorite foods: lobsters and burgers (made with locally sourced, farm-fresh beef). Pair with cocktails like the lobster bloody mary, served in Mason jars. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.770.1654 $$ Map I12 CRAFT New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers a contemporary American à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes including roasted octopus and diver scallops with vermouth butter. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 $$$$ Map K11 GWEN Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s restaurant—named after their maternal grandmother— features meat-centric tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front that offers sandwiches. L (M-F), D (nightly). 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 $$$ Map H14 JIMMY’S FAMOUS AMERICAN TAVERN This rustic-yet-sophisticated restaurant offers creative takes on American regional classics. Try the Jimmy burger with jalapeño jam, pimento cheese and bacon. Santa Monica: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Woodland Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 1733 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 424.292.5222; The Village at Westfield Topanga, 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.369.0005 $$ Map M8, northwest of A1 JOAN’S ON THIRD Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street and a newer location in the Valley offer omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285; 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 $ Map I12, T18 M.B. POST Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, fresh-baked breads, delectable vegetables, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 $$$ Map L13 ODYS + PENELOPE Churrasco and grill from Karen and Quinn Hatfield features a live-fire grill and wood-

GUIDELINES

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

INDEX American........................48 Mediterranean...............52 British/Irish....................48 Mexican/Latin................52 California Cuisine..........48 Pan-Asian.......................52 Chinese...........................49 Quick Bites.....................53 Eclectic/Fusion..............50 Seafood...........................53 French............................50 Spanish...........................54 Italian..............................50 Steak...............................54 Japanese........................51 Thai............................................54

fired smoker. Eclectic, flavorful cuisine is accompanied by a menu of craft beer, wine and handcrafted cocktails. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 127 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.939.1033 $$$ Map B2 REDBIRD Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Rack of red wattle pork and chicken potpie are part of an intriguing menu. An updated Spanish Baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 $$$ Map H17

BRITISH/IRISH YE OLDE KING’S HEAD Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, like the acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 $ Map L8

CALIFORNIA CUISINE 1 PICO This upscale oceanfront dining venue recently relaunched with a new chef and menu focusing on California coastal cuisine. Pair with a handcrafted cocktail or selection from the extensive wine list. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.1717 $$$ Map M8 DIALOGUE James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran, formerly of Chicago’s celebrated Alinea, is behind this 18-seat restaurant (eight seats at a kitchen counter, plus three tables). One market-driven 15- to 21-course tasting menu is offered; tickets must be prepurchased online. D (Tu-Su). Gallery Food Hall, 1315 3rd Street Promenade, Second Floor, Santa Monica, dialoguerestaurant.com $$$$ Map L8 GRATITUDE This upscale, plant-based restaurant from the team behind Café Gratitude and Gracias Madre offers a seasonally rotating menu and a curated cocktail program that both use 100 percent organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. Everything’s served in a lovely, lightfilled space that spills onto an inviting, shaded patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 419 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 424.389.1850 $$ Map I11 JEAN-GEORGES BEVERLY HILLS Michelin-rated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant at the new Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is an opulent indoor/outdoor fine-dining destination, perfect for enjoying fresh, local cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6566 $$$ Map J11 LOVE & SALT Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (e.g., duck-egg pizza and whole roasted pig head) in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef

W Chef José Andrés of The Bazaar, twice named to Time‘s annual list of the world’s 100 most influential people, is a 2019 Nobel Peace Prize nominee. p. 54

JESUS BANUELOS/COURTESY FACTORY PLACE HOSPITALITY GROUP

THE GUIDE

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DINING

Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery

Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 $$$ Map L13 MAUDE Celebrity chef Curtis Stone, an Aussie with a strong classical background, helms this intimate, 24-seat Beverly Hills restaurant named after his paternal grandmother. Four times a year, Stone and his team offer a new tasting menu and optional wine pairings inspired by their travel to a great wine region of the world. D (TuSa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 $$$$ Map J11 MICHAEL’S Michael McCarty’s influential farm-totable restaurant, opened in 1979, is refreshed and back in the spotlight. D (M-Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 $$$ Map L8 MILO & OLIVE The team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery. Expect to make friends with your neighbors; seating is at communal tables and bar only. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 $$ Map K9

British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips. Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more. Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer

M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule

116 Santa Monica Blvd. Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

OTIUM French Laundry alum Timothy Hollingsworth helms this modern restaurant adjacent to the Broad museum, preparing rustic, market-driven cuisine such as hamachi with coriander, avocado, lemon and dill. L (TuF), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 222 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.935.8500 $$$ Map H16 PALEY This glamorous restaurant (named after former CBS CEO William S. Paley) pays homage to the Golden Age of Hollywood. Inside a midcentury-modern dining room, dine on classic dishes with a modern twist. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 6115 Sunset Blvd., Suite 100, L.A., 323.544.9430 $$$ Map H14 PLANT FOOD + WINE Restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 $$$ Map N9 RUSTIC CANYON Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterraneaninspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners. Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 $$$ Map L8 SPAGO An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. L (TuSa), D (nightly). 176 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 $$$$ Map I11 THE STRAND HOUSE This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a breezy, stylish bar. Executive chef Austin Cobb’s menu highlights award-winning coastal California cuisine. The street-level bar is a great spot for a sunset cocktail. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 $$$ Map L13 TAVERN James Beard Award-winning chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a popular sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.806.6464 $$$ Map J9

CHINESE BAO DIM SUM Enjoy delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 $$ Map I12

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DINING RÉPUBLIQUE In a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio, fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics (e.g., escargots, duck confit and steak frites) for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables. Café: B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro: D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 $$$ Map I13 TESSE RESTAURANT Raphael Francois is in the kitchen at Bill Chait’s new restaurant, serving classic French delights—handcrafted charcuterie and foie gras, steak frites—updated for 21st-century L.A. Pioneering mixologists Julian Cox and Nick Meyer are behind the cocktail menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.360.3866 $$$ Map H12 TROIS MEC Ludo Lefebvre, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook are behind this hot restaurant in a 26-seat former pizzeria. Diners must purchase advance tickets via the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, five-course meal. D (Tu-Sa). 716 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.484.8588, troismec.com $$$$ Map H13

ITALIAN

DIN TAI FUNG Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.277.3898; The Americana at Brand, 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; Westfield Santa Anita, 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588; 1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.574.7068; Del Amo Fashion Center, 21540 Hawthorne Blvd., Suite 519, Torrance, 310.214.1175 $$ Map J10, U23, R23 (2), D2 MR CHOW The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. Beverly Hills: L (M-F), D (nightly). Malibu: D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911; Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 $$$ Map I11, K7 YANG CHOW Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere have made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811; 6443 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Canoga Park, 818.347.2610; 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 $$ Map G17, west of A1, Q22

ECLECTIC/FUSION CASSIA This bustling Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie, set inside a 1930s art deco building, finds chef Bryant Ng (the Spice Table) serving dishes like Vietnamese pot au feu, black cod with anchovy broth, and grilled pork-belly vermicelli. Sister concept Esters Wine Shop & Bar is adjacent. D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 $$$ Map L8 ORSA & WINSTON Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at this acclaimed restaurant. Select a vegetable, fish or meat grain bowl for lunch; for dinner, enjoy a daily changing six-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 $$$$ Map I16 VESPERTINE Chef Jordan Kahn’s mysterious, pricey “gastronomical experiment” topped late L.A. Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold’s 2017 list of the city’s

101 best restaurants. Expect a space-age meal of 18-plus courses. Reservations must be made in advance online. D (Tu-Sa). 3599 Hayden Ave., Culver City, 323.320.4023, vespertine.la $$$$ Map L12

FRENCH CAFÉ PINOT This glass box of a restaurant adjacent to Central Library offers romantic outdoor dining, skyline views—from the bottom up—and contemporary Cal-French cuisine from the Patina Group. D (M-Sa). 700 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.239.6500 $$$ Map H16 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE AND BAR Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here (e.g., moules frites). L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 $$ Map H16 LE PETIT PARIS The L.A. iteration of David and Fanny Rolland’s original Le Petit Paris in Cannes is housed in the historic El Dorado building. By day, the brasserie is bright and tranquil, and at night, it transforms into an upscale lounge. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445 $$$ Map I17 THE LITTLE DOOR For a candlelit dinner, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars or by a crackling fireplace. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 $$$ Map I12 PATINA The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classicalmusic offerings with fine dining, thanks to its fine inhouse restaurant. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Sa). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 $$$$ Map H16 PETIT TROIS Trois Mec’s neighboring, French-barstyle spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. A new outpost in the Valley opened last year. L.A.: L, D (daily). Sherman Oaks: B, L, D (daily). 718 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.468.8916; 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600 $$$ Map H13, G10

BESTIA Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic. D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 $$$ Map east of J17 BOTTEGA LOUIE This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 $$ Map I16 BRERA RISTORANTE From the team behind the Factory Kitchen around the corner, this stylish trattoria (formerly Officine Brera) serves a daily changing, Northern Italy-inspired menu in a rustic-meets-contemporary space. The rice dishes, spit-roasted meats and handmade pastas are superb. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006 $$$ Map J17 CULINA The Four Seasons’ acclaimed Italian restaurant boasts coastal influences and a sleek crudo bar. Adjacent is Vinoteca, an Italian-inspired wine- and espresso-bar concept. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 $$$ Map J12 DAN TANA’S New York-style restaurant, an L.A. classic for nearly 50 years. Red-sauced pastas, huge steaks. Reservations required. D (nightly). 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9444 $$$ Map I11 DRAGO CENTRO Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 $$$ Map H16 THE FACTORY KITCHEN Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrial-chic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, complemented by an inventive cocktail program, contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, downtown, 213.996.6000 $$$ Map J17 FELIX TRATTORIA Chef Evan Funke’s trattoria boasts an open kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven, a Tuscan grill and a glass-enclosed pasta laboratorio where Funke’s masterpieces—pappardelle, tonnarelli, strascinati—take

ED ANDERSON

Rossoblu’s dining room (p. 51)

ALIMENTO Zach Pollack, who recently opened Cosa Buona in Echo Park, is behind this tiny, hip space, where a clever menu includes tortellini in brodo, featuring dumplings filled with a hot broth. D (Tu-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A., 323.928.2888 $$$ Map east of W23

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DINING shape before diners’ eyes. D (nightly). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.387.8622 $$$ Map M9 JON & VINNY’S Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, which just opened a Brentwood outpost, has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369; 11938 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.442.2733 $$ Map B2, J12 LA VECCHIA CUCINA Rustic Northern Italian cuisine is served in a laid-back bistro. Find more than a dozen pastas for dinner, plus pizzas, osso buco alla Romana and other traditional favorites. L, D (daily). 2654 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.399.7979 $$ Map M8 LN2 PIZZA SHOPPE Just-opened “modern gastro lounge” from chef Chris Robbins serves an eclectic, upscale selection of sandwiches, salads and larger plates, as well as artisanal, wood-fired pizzas (e.g., duck confit or caramelized fig) and, for dessert, nitrogen ice cream. D (Tu-Su), Br (Su). 7212 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.917.5178 $$ Map H13 OSTERIA MOZZA Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton is a partner in Mozza’s group of contemporary Italian restaurants, which includes this sophisticated dining room. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 $$$ Map H13 PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO The more relaxed sibling of Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials. Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 $$ Map H13 ROSSOBLU Chef Steve Samson and wife Dina are behind this gorgeous Italian restaurant in City Market South, a new complex in the up-and-coming Fashion District, where Samson serves Bolognese family favorites. Pastas and salumi are made in workshops visible from the cellar wine room, which is available for private dining. D (nightly). 1124 San Julian St., downtown, 213.749.10990 $$$ Map J16 SCOPA ITALIAN ROOTS Chef Antonia Lofaso’s popular Italian-American restaurant serves up oldschool dishes like rice balls, crispy squash blossoms and squid-ink calamari, plus traditional desserts (think cannoli, spumoni and Italian cookies). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 2905 Washington Blvd., Venice, 310.821.1100 $$$ Map N10 TERRONI Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza, from a Toronto-based chain. Great happy-hour specials. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. Downtown: L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). L.A.: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234; 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 $$ Map I16, J13 TORELLI TRATTORIA Featuring a charming patio and dining room, this classic Tuscan trattoria serves authentic, made-to-order Italian dishes such as polpette al forno con mozzarella, tortellini di formaggio al pesto and lasagna Bolognese e besciamella. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Su). 7469 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.433.7065 $$ Map H13

JAPANESE ASANEBO Hidden in a strip mall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 $$ Map A1 ISE-SHIMA Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array

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DINING CROSSROADS KITCHEN Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort-food classics. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 $$$ Map H12 FIG & OLIVE Inspired by Provence, France, and Mediterranean culinary heritage, this restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil. Don’t miss the Moroccan free-range chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8490 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 310.360.9100 $$$ Map I12 GJELINA Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett (also behind Gjusta and MTN), Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s liveliest patio. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 $$ Map N9

of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers. B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 $$ Map M14 KATANA Sunset Strip restaurant with a sushi bar and robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood. Stylish rooms, patio. Upscale-casual dress code. L (M-F), D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 $$$ Map H12 KATSUYA Sushi chef Katsuya Uechi turns out exotic delicacies in sultry spaces by designer Philippe Starck. L (varies by location), D (nightly). 11777 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.207.8744; 6300 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.871.8777; The Americana at Brand, 702 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.244.5900; L.A. Live, 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 323.525.2400 $$$ Map K9, H14, northeast of T23, I15 MATSUHISA Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s relatively modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 $$$$ Map I12 MTN Chef Travis Lett (Gjelina, Gjusta) is behind this California izakaya, pronounced “mountain,” where foodies perch on bar stools to dine on fare like charred Japanese sweet potato and slurp up bowls of housemade ramen. D (nightly). 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.465.3313 $$ Map N9 NOBU The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. West Hollywood: D (nightly). Malibu: B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711; Nobu Malibu, 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 $$$$ Map H12, east of A1 Q SUSHI The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef Hiroyuki Naruke in items like seared toro and a parade of simply prepared sushi. These strictly traditional interpretations are never flashy but always rewarding. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 $$$$ Map I16 ROKU Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared

at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 $$$ Map H12

LUCQUES Chef/owner Suzanne Goin (A.O.C.) delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes dishes such as grilled salmon wrapped in grape leaves and served with green rice, feta, labneh and caper salsa. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 $$$ Map I13

MEXICAN/LATIN

SUSHI ROKU Nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771; 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 $$$ Map L8, Q19

BROKEN SPANISH The upscale sister of B.S. Taqueria, this “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., Suite 102, downtown, 213.749.1460 $$$ Map I15

TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA RESTAURANT Twentyone floors above downtown L.A.’s Financial District, you’ll find this restaurant serving elevated sushi, robata and Japanese-influenced entrées. L (M-F), D (nightly). 811 Wilshire Blvd., 21st Floor, downtown, 213.236.9600 $$$ Map H16

GRACIAS MADRE Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Café Gratitude. Inventive dishes like coconut-ceviche tostadas and flautas de papas please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 $$ Map I12

MEDITERRANEAN A.O.C. Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends—the small-plates format and the wine bar—from James Beard Award-winning Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne. Try the addictive bacon-wrapped, Parmesan-stuffed dates. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 $$ Map I12 BAVEL Bestia chef Ori Menashe and wife/pastry chef Genevieve Gergis bring Middle Eastern cuisine into the mainstream at this lively, trendsetting Arts District restaurant. The menu features a wide-ranging selection of mezze including eggplant baba ghanoush with puffy fried pita, and larger plates such as herb-stuffed dorade with red chermoula. Gergis churns out licoriceice-cream bonbons and rose-clove chocolate doughnuts for dessert. D (nightly). 500 Mateo St., downtown, 213.232.4966 $$$ Map J17 THE BELVEDERE The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ elegant restaurant has a lovely terrace and a Mediterranean menu from executive chef David Codney. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 $$$$ Map J11 CLEO Executive chef Danny Elmaleh’s Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of pork belly and lamb, and wood-burned flatbreads. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). The Orlando Hotel, 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.658.6600 $$$ Map I12

GUERRILLA TACOS Chef Wes Avila’s lauded taco truck opened a brick-and-mortar space in the Arts District, complete with a bar and patio. L, D (daily). 2000 E. 7th St., downtown, 213.375.3300 $ Map J17 ROSALINÉ Acclaimed chef Ricardo Zarate’s sunny restaurant—named after his mother—introduces the “next phase of Peruvian dining” (e.g., lima-bean salad, kampachi ceviche, chicharrón de paiche). The cuisine is complemented by Peruvian cocktails from Jeremy Lake. D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.297.9500 $$$ Map I12 SALAZAR This trendy taco destination—a colorful desert oasis set in a reworked Frogtown auto-body shop—specializes in outdoor dining, grilled meats and fun drinks. Pair tasty tacos with aguas frescas and cocktails. L, D (Tu-Su); Br (Sa-Su). 2490 Fletcher Drive, L.A., salazarla.com $$ Map southeast of W23 SAUSAL This stylish El Segundo restaurant serves nuevo-rancho cuisine by chef Anne Conness (Jaffa), with an emphasis on wood fire, smoke and slow-roasting methods; Mexican and Spanish flavors; and locally sourced produce. L, D (daily). 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721 $$ Map L13

PAN-ASIAN CRUSTACEAN A walk-on-water aquarium meanders throughout the length of this modern-Vietnamese Beverly

CARLA CHOY

Lomo saltado at Rosaliné

JAFFA Chef Anne Conness’ modern take on Israeli cuisine emphasizes seasonal, local and sustainably raised ingredients and a blend of New and Old World flavors. Inventive cocktails complement such dishes as North African chickpea stew and lamb couscous with dried figs, cilantro and Moroccan spices. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8048 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.433.4978 $$ Map I12

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DINING

PRIME AGED

Hills landmark, which recently reopened its doors following a $10 million redesign. Enjoy reimagined Asian-fusion dishes, such as the Tuna Cigar, while still satisfying cravings with the An family’s legendary “Secret Kitchen” dishes. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 468 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990, $$$ Map I11 THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Beverly Hills’ Crustacean—offers cuisine that reflects her Vietnamese heritage while incorporating California sensibilities. Dishes such as Wok Lobster with handmade noodles are enjoyed with Southeast Asia-inspired cocktails. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 $$$ Map I12

TO PERFECTION

LITTLE SISTER Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s panAsian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and saltand-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). Downtown: B, L, D (daily). R.B.: L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146; 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237 $$ Map L13, I16, M13 LUKSHON Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery. The crispy whole fish is not to be missed. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 $$$ Map K12 WP24 From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. Restaurant/lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room: D (Tu-Sa). Nest: D (nightly). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 $$$$ Map I15

QUICK BITES THE APPLE PAN Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger aficionados lovers wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu-Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 $ Map K10

Los Angeles 735 South Figueroa St. 213-553-4566

SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills 435 S. La Cienega Blvd. 310-246-1501

Woodland Hills 6250 Canoga Ave. 818-703-7272

PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL The purported birthplace of the French dip sandwich, this down-home cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 45-cent coffee. Cash only. B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 $ Map G17

Burbank 3400 West Olive Ave. 818-238-0424

South Coast Plaza Village 1641 W. Sunflower Ave. 714-444-4834

Anaheim 1895 South Harbor Blvd. 714-621-0101

PINK’S HOT DOGS There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot-dog stand, open since 1939, which serves 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 $ Map I13

Mortons.com

NATALE E T H A I

C U I S I N E

WURSTKÜCHE Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, alligator and pork andouille. Open late. L, D (daily). 800 E. 3rd St., downtown; 625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 213.687.4444 $ Map I17, M9

“The Best of Culver City” 9 Years in a Row ~Culver City News

“Readers’ Choice Award” ~LA Times “Best of The West Side” ~The Argonaut

Venice (310) 202-7003 10101 Venice Blvd. Full Bar | Sushi Bar Beverly Hills (310) 855-9380 998 S. Robertson Blvd. Full Bar | Valet Parking

Dine In | Delivery Take Out | Order Online

nataleethai.com

SEAFOOD BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this restaurant near the Santa Monica Pier specializes in dishes such as oysters on the half shell, New England clam chowder and lobster rolls. L, D (daily). 355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 $$$ Map L8 CAFE DEL REY Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. Stop in for is great nightly happy hour, too. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 $$$ Map N9 CAL MARE This sophisticated Cal-Italian seafood restaurant from chef Adam Sobel in collaboration with

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DINING THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other old-school fare. Beverly Hills: L (M-Sa), D (nightly). Westlake Village: L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615; 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 $$$ Map I11, west of A1 L.A. PRIME Enjoy city views, wet-aged steaks and an award-winning wine list at the Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites’ 35th-floor restaurant. D (nightly). The Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.612.4743 $$$$ Map I16 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB At this on-the-waterfront eatery, starters like ahi tartare and caviar are followed by whole Maine lobster and expertly prepared steaks. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 $$$$ Map west of K7 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 $$$ Map J11

superchef/restaurateur Michael Mina is on the ground floor of the Beverly Center. D (nightly). 131 La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 424.332.4595 $$$ Map I12 DUKE’S MALIBU Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this oceanfront restaurant captures the spirit of aloha. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 $$ Map west of K7 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood. Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked over a mesquite charcoal grill. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 $$$ Map M9 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE Chef David LeFevre (the Arthur J, M.B. Post) loads his menu with East Coast inspirations. Among the old-school small plates in this charming restaurant are Maryland blue-crab cakes. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 $$$ Map L13

a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 $$$ Map I12

SPANISH THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical Spanish-style dining experience to the SLS Hotel. Cuisine ranges from rustic to cutting-edge. Newer concept Somni is billed as a “multisensory culinary experience” with a 20-plus-course tasting menu. Purchase tickets at exploretock.com. The Bazaar: D (nightly). Somni: D (Tu-Sa). 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555 $$$ Map H16

STEAK ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 $$$ Map Q20

THE LOBSTER Enjoy a panoramic view of the Pacific Ocean while indulging in seafood from this Santa Monica Pier-adjacent restaurant. The patio is most coveted for sampling the eponymous crustacean in various iterations. L, D (daily); Br (Su). 1602 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.9294 $$$ Map L8

APL RESTAURANT At classically trained chef and barbecue expert Adam Perry Lang’s new steakhouse, starters include versions of old-school favorites (e.g., iceberg wedge, shrimp cocktail). The rib-eye, T-bone and porterhouse are all dry-aged on-site. D (nightly). 1680 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.416.1280 $$$$ Map H14

PROVIDENCE Michael Cimarusti (who’s also behind West Hollywood’s Connie and Ted’s) transforms sustainable seafood into oft-changing dishes at this refined restaurant. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelinrecognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 $$$$ Map I14

BALTAIRE Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated Brentwood restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sun-orstars dining on its 2,500-square-foot terrace. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 $$$$ Map J12

ROY’S James Beard Award-winning chef Roy Yamaguchi, who pioneered innovative Pacific Rim cuisine in L.A. more than 30 years ago, is behind this chain of contemporary Hawaiian-inspired restaurants. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 6363 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.888.4801; 641 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.356.4066 $$$ Map west of A1, Q21

BOA STEAKHOUSE Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. Santa Monica: D (nightly). West Hollywood: L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466; 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 $$$ Map M8, H12

SON OF A GUN Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for new inspiration. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in

CUT A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and Wolfgang Puck, Cut is the place to savor genuine wagyu beef steaks or dry-aged Nebraska beef. D (M-Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 $$$ Map J11

THE MUSSO & FRANK GRILL Hollywood’s oldest restaurant (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes and lobster Thermidor with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L (Tu-Sa); D (Tu-Su). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 $$ Map H13 THE STINKING ROSE True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options and premium steaks. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 $$ Map I12 STK The One Group’s renowned steakhouse at the W hotel in Westwood offers starters like tuna tartare with Hass avocado, soy-honey emulsion and taro chips, followed by signature savory steaks and seafood platters for the table. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 $$$ Map J10

THAI NATALEE THAI Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.202.7003; 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 $ Map L11, J12 NIGHT + MARKET For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.born chef Kris Yenbamroong. WeHo: L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). Silver Lake: L (M-F), D (M-Sa). Venice: D (W-M). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724; 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899; 2533 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310.301.0333 $$ Map I12, south of W23, M9

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MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE Clubby ambiance, show-and-tell menu, huge portions. Beverly Hills, Woodland Hills: D (nightly). Downtown, Burbank: L (M-F), D (nightly). 435 S. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.1501; 6250 Canoga Ave., Woodland Hills, 818.703.7272; 735 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.553.4566; The Pinnacle, 3400 W. Olive Ave., Burbank, 818.238.0424 $$$ Map I11, west of A1, I16, T20

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RESTAURANTS CITY INDEX OUR SUPERGUIDE BY AREA, WITH CROSS REFERENCE TO LISTINGS BY CUISINE

BEVERLY HILLS

CULVER CITY

PINK’S HOT DOGS (Quick Bites)....................... 53

THE LOBSTER (Seafood).....................................54

THE BELVEDERE (Mediterranean)............... 52

LUKSHON (Pan-Asian)......................................... 53

SALAZAR (Mexican/Latin).................................... 52

MICHAEL’S (California)....................................... 49

CRUSTACEAN (Pan-Asian)............................... 52

NATALEE THAI (Thai)...................................... 54

TROIS MEC (French).............................................. 50

MILO & OLIVE (California)............................... 49

CULINA (Italian).................................................... 50

VESPERTINE (Eclectic/Fusion)....................... 50

LA BREA/MID-CITY

RUSTIC CANYON (California)........................ 49

CUT (Steak)............................................................... 54

DOWNTOWN

ANIMAL (American)..............................................48

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 52

GRATITUDE (California).................................... 48

71ABOVE (American)............................................. 48

JON & VINNY’S (Italian)................................... 51

YE OLDE KING’S HEAD (British/Irish)...48

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak)...... 54

BAVEL (Mediterranean)......................................... 52

ODYS + PENELOPE (American)...................48

SOUTH BAY/LONG BEACH

JEAN-GEORGES (California)..............................48

BESTIA (Italian)......................................................... 50

PINK’S HOT DOGS (Quick Bites).................. 53

DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese).................................. 50

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)......... 54

BOTTEGA LOUIE (Italian)..............................50

RÉPUBLIQUE (French).......................................50

FISHING WITH DYNAMITE (Seafood).... 54

MAUDE (California)............................................... 49

BRERA RISTORANTE (Italian)...................50

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

ISE-SHIMA (Japanese).......................................... 51

MR CHOW (Chinese)........................................... 50

BROKEN SPANISH (Mexican/Latin)............. 52

RESTAURANT ROW

LITTLE SISTER (Pan-Asian)............................. 53

NATALEE THAI (Thai)...................................... 54

CAFÉ PINOT (French).......................................... 50

BARTON G. (American)...........................................48

LOVE & SALT (California)..................................48

SPAGO (California)................................................ 49

DRAGO CENTRO (Italian)................................ 50

BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS (Spanish)...... 54

M.B. POST (American).........................................48

BEVERLY BOULEVARD

THE FACTORY KITCHEN (Italian)............. 50

CAL MARE (Seafood)........................................... 53

SAUSAL (Mexican)................................................. 52

3RD STREET

GUERRILLA TACOS (Mexican)...................... 52

CATTLE & CLAW (American).........................48

THE STRAND HOUSE (California).............. 49

MELROSE AVENUE

KATSUYA (Japanese).............................................. 52

FIG & OLIVE (Mediterranean)........................... 52

VALLEY

KENDALL’S BRASSERIE (French)............. 50

MATSUHISA (Japanese)..................................... 52

ASANEBO (Japanese)........................................... 51

A.O.C. (Mediterranean).......................................... 52

L.A. PRIME (Steak)............................................. 54

MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak).. 54

CASTAWAY (American)......................................48

BAO DIM SUM (Chinese).................................. 49

LE PETIT PARIS (French).................................. 50

NOBU (Japanese)..................................................... 52

THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY (Steak)....... 54

CLEO (Mediterranean)............................................ 52

LITTLE SISTER (Pan-Asian)............................. 53

THE STINKING ROSE (Steak)...................... 54

JIMMY’S FAMOUS (American)............................ 48

CROSSROADS KITCHEN (Mediterranean)..52

MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak).. 54

MALIBU

JOAN’S ON THIRD (American)....................48

DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN (Pan-Asian).... 53 GRACIAS MADRE (Mexican/Latin).............. 52

ORSA & WINSTON (Eclectic/Fusion)..........50

JAFFA (Mediterranean)............................................... 52

OTIUM (California).................................................. 49

JOAN’S ON THIRD (American)................... 48

PATINA (French)....................................................... 50

THE LITTLE DOOR (French)......................... 50

PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL (Quick Bites)...... 53

LN2 PIZZA SHOPPE (Italian)........................ 51

Q SUSHI (Japanese).................................................. 52

LUCQUES (Mediterranean)................................. 52

REDBIRD (American)............................................. 48

OSTERIA MOZZA (Italian)............................... 51

ROSSOBLU (Italian)................................................ 51

PIZZERIA MOZZA (Italian)............................. 51

TAKAMI SUSHI & ROBATA (Japanese).... 52

PROVIDENCE (Seafood)................................... 54

TERRONI (Italian)................................................... 51

ROSALINÉ (Mexican/Latin)............................... 52

WP24 (Pan-Asian)...................................................... 53

SON OF A GUN (Seafood).............................. 54

WURSTKÜCHE (Quick Bites)................................. 53

TERRONI (Italian)................................................... 51

YANG CHOW (Chinese)....................................... 50

TORELLI TRATTORIA (Italian).................... 51

HOLLYWOOD/EASTSIDE

BRENTWOOD

ALIMENTO (Italian)................................................ 50

BALTAIRE (Steak)................................................ 54

APL RESTAURANT (Steak)........................... 54

JON & VINNY’S (Italian)................................... 51

DUKE’S MALIBU (Seafood)............................. 54

MORTON’S THE STEAKHOUSE (Steak).. 54

MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB (Steak)........... 54

PETIT TROIS (French)........................................50

MR CHOW (Chinese)............................................50

ROY’S (Seafood)...................................................... 54

NOBU MALIBU (Japanese)............................... 52

YANG CHOW (Chinese)....................................... 50

MARINA DEL REY

VENICE

CAFE DEL REY (Seafood)................................ 53

FELIX TRATTORIA (Italian)..........................50

PASADENA/GLENDALE

GJELINA (Mediterranean)................................... 52

ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE (Steak)...54

MTN (Japanese)......................................................... 52

DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese)...................................50

NIGHT + MARKET SAHM (Thai)............... 54

KATSUYA (Japanese)........................................... 52

PLANT FOOD + WINE (California)............ 49

ROY’S (Seafood)...................................................... 54

SCOPA ITALIAN ROOTS (Italian).............. 51

SUSHI ROKU (Japanese).................................... 52

WURSTKÜCHE (Quick Bites)................................. 53

YANG CHOW (Chinese)....................................... 50

WEST HOLLYWOOD

SANTA MONICA

BOA STEAKHOUSE (Steak).......................... 54

1 PICO (California)...................................................48

DAN TANA’S (Italian).........................................50

BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE (Seafood).. 53

KATANA (Japanese).............................................. 52

GWEN (American)..................................................... 48

BOA STEAKHOUSE (Steak).......................... 54

NIGHT + MARKET (Thai)................................ 54

KATSUYA (Japanese)............................................ 52

KATSUYA (Japanese).............................................. 52

CASSIA (Eclectic/Fusion).....................................50

ROKU (Japanese)..................................................... 52

TAVERN (California)............................................. 49

THE MUSSO & FRANK GRILL (Steak).. 54

DIALOGUE (California).......................................48

TESSE RESTAURANT (French)...................50

CENTURY CITY

NIGHT + MARKET SONG (Thai).................54

ENTERPRISE FISH CO. (Seafood)............. 54

WESTSIDE

CRAFT (American)................................................. 48

PALEY (California).................................................... 49

JIMMY’S FAMOUS (American)......................48

THE APPLE PAN (Quick Bites)............................. 53

DIN TAI FUNG (Chinese).................................. 50

PETIT TROIS (French)........................................50

LA VECCHIA CUCINA (Italian).................... 51

STK (Steak)................................................................. 54

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SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Antipasti Polpette al Forno con Mozzarella Fiori di Zucca Fritti Arancini

TORELLI TRATTORIA Torelli is a classic, country-style Tuscan trattoria with authentic Italian cuisine and rustic decor. When you enter down the long hallway, accented by the “love locks” chain commonly found in Europe, you will be taken back in time to a traditional trattoria. Your senses will be tingled by the aroma of fresh food cooking in the cucina, accentuated by the cozy atmosphere of the alfresco patio garden. The menu is filled with traditional dishes that bring forth the true culinary spirit of Italy, such as Polpette al Forno con Mozzarella, Tortellini di Formaggio al Pesto and Lasagna Bolognese e Besciamella. Each dish is made to order from scratch with locally sourced ingredients, just like Nonna made and Mamma makes today. Visit the restaurant on Melrose in Hollywood to gather with friends over a delicious meal and immerse yourself in Florentine culture and history. For the Torelli team, bringing joy to guests through food, wine and warm hospitality is more than just rewarding—it’s truly heartwarming. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Su).

Zuppe Minestrone Tortellini al Brodo di Pollo Pescatore Pollo/Pesce/Carne Pollo Al Saltimbocca Capesante Grigliate Bistecca Di Maiale con Salsa Al Vino Rosso Paste Speciali Tortellini di Formaggio al Pesto Lasagna Bolognese e Besciamella Risotto con Aragosta Dessert Homemade Tiramisu Homemade Panna Cotta Tartufi del Gelato

7469 Melrose Ave., L.A.

323.433.7065 torellitrattoria.com

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DINE_W

SPECIAL PROMOTION

MENU HIGHLIGHTS Cattle 10-ounce burger Baby burger Grilled bone-in cowboy

CATTLE & CLAW New Cattle & Claw has a single purpose: to offer in-the-know omnivores a place to enjoy two of the world’s favorite foods—lobsters and burgers. For most, that means the signature creamy lobster roll and juicy 10-ounce burger but lobster tacos and pizza and a grilled bone-in cowboy steak are also signatures. Now, the sizzling eatery at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills celebrates spring. The beautiful days are back—not that they ever go far in SoCal—and with them seasonal specials ideal for a lunch with friends or a romantic dinner on the gorgeous garden patio. The Boozy Brunch, Sundays from noon to 5 p.m., brings its own menu featuring a lobster frittata, lobster benedict, lobster waffles and egg burgers; enjoy two hours of bottomless mimosas or lobster bloody Marys while grooving to a live deejay. Reservations recommended. L, D (daily).

Claw Lobster roll Lobster tacos Lobster pizza Combos Two lobster rolls, two 10-ounce burgers, whole lobster, fries, salad Drinks Lobster bloody mary Mason-jar cocktails Margarita

Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

310.770.1654 cattleandclaw.com

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LADINING SAUSAL Sausal, named for the vast farmstead that once encompassed most of the South Bay, presents a deep multicultural nuevorancho cuisine reaching back to a time before California was part of the United States. The impressive décor at the popular spot, filled with wood and tile, is open and warm. Chef Anne Conness blends traditional Hispanic ingredients, of both Mexico and Spain, with contemporary farmers’ market fare. Wood-fire, smoke and slow-roasting elements are reflected in tacos such as beef brisket barbacoa or spice-roasted butternut squash; “hearth” dishes including “angry” mussels or duck enchiladas with black mole sauce; and, from the oak-wood fire, grilled organic chinook salmon and hanger-steak carne asada. L, D (daily).

219 Main St., El Segundo 310.322.2721 • sausal.com

LN2 PIZZA SHOPPE Affectionately named after his love for science and all things modern, LN2 pizza shoppe is the newest creation from Chef Chris Robbins. Located on Melrose Avenue in the heart of Los Angeles, LN2 is where chef creates his own whimsical take on what he calls “the modern gastro lounge,” utilizing his fine dining background and passion for tastes that “make us happy.” Enjoy dishes like duck confit pizza, hamachi tartare and duck wings. The short rib pairs with arguably the best mashed potatoes ever. Choose from the contemporary romantic dining room, vibrant lounge or immerse in the bustling Melrose street scene from the patio. D (Tu-Su); Br (Su).

7212 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles 323.917.5178 • Ln2pizzashoppe.com

YARDBIRD SOUTHERN TABLE & BAR James Beard Award-nominated restaurant, Yardbird is a bastion of regional Southern fare. The look at the Beverly Center spot is clean-lined and contemporary—with fun exceptions: “Run, chicken, run,” for instance, is scrawled on a cleaver over the open kitchen. Start with biscuits—actually, start with blackberry bourbon lemonade—perhaps chicken biscuits with pepper jelly or smoked-brisket biscuits with house-made barbecue sauce; mention Where magazine and receive complimentary Famous Mama’s Biscuits. Among popular mains are Lewellyn’s Fine Fried Chicken with honey hot sauce, lobster mac ‘n’ cheese and sweettea-braised short ribs. Finish with Pie in a Jar served in a Mason jar. Happy hour M-F (3-7 pm). L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles 323.250.8034 • runchickenrun.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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LADINING THE STINKING ROSE— A GARLIC RESTAURANT The Stinking Rose has been a mainstay on the dining scene since 1996. The restaurant’s latest addition is a supplemental Garlic Stake menu, which includes such premium beef specialties as the Little Devil petite filet mignon, Dracula’s Porterhouse (a carnivore’s dream of the perfectly prepared cut, with New York and filet mignon cooked separately), a bone-in filet mignon and the newest addition, a ribeye steak. The Gar Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy an evening of standards and pop songs performed by piano man Gary Sherer, who tickles the ivories Thursday through Saturday nights. Settle into a cozy booth or find a seat at the bar and enjoy an evening of fine food and pure entertainment. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 • thestinkingrose.com

THE LOBSTER Bluff-side overlooking the Santa Monica Pier, the iconic Lobster restaurant is a modern, glass-walled building marking a final stop on Route 66. The internationally recognized seafood and special-events destination is overseen by celebrity chef Govind Armstrong, contestant on the Food Network’s Iron Chef America and a guest judge on the Bravo series Top Chef. Known for his market-driven cuisine, Armstrong adds sophisticated seasonal dishes to the menu’s signature California spiny lobster and Maine lobster. Famous specialty cocktails include reiterations of classics, like Our Famous Mojito and The Lobster’s bloody Mary. L, D (daily).

1602 Ocean Avenue, Santa Monica 310.458.9294 • thelobster.com

GRATITUDE KITCHEN AND BAR Love Serve Remember—parent company of Café Gratitude (which has locations in Larchmont Village, downtown L.A.’s Arts District and Venice) and Gracias Madre in West Hollywood— brings an upscale iteration of its plant-based concepts to Beverly Hills with Gratitude Kitchen and Bar. Just like its flagship location in Newport Beach, Gratitude offers a seasonally rotating menu crafted by executive chef Seizan Dreux Ellis that’s designed to support health and sustainability for the community and the planet. And just like the cuisine, the curated cocktail program uses organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. It’s all served in a light-filled, 3675-square-foot space that spills onto an inviting, shaded patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).

419 Canon Drive, Beverly Hills 424.389.1850 • gratitudekitchenandbar.com

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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/ THE GUIDE SPECIAL EVENTS L.A. IPA FEST March 2-3 This sixth-annual festival organized and hosted by Echo Park’s Mohawk Bend celebrates the most dominant player in L.A.’s craft-beer scene: the India Pale Ale. Taste IPA offerings from top local breweries; Saturday is the main event and beer competition, and the tasting continues Sunday. Sa 9:30 am, $5 per 8-ounce pour; Su build-your-own flights. 21+. Mohawk Bend, 2141 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.483.2337, laipafestival.com Map north of G16 CICLAVIA—CULVER CITY MEETS MAR VISTA & PALMS March 3 Over 6 miles of L.A.’s normally congested streets turn into a car-free park for a walk and bike tour through Culver City and nearby neighborhoods Mar Vista and Palms during this beloved openstreets event. See website for route details. 9 am-4 pm. Free. 213.355.8500, ciclavia.org

Behind the Screen

The Paley Center for Media’s annual PaleyFest—full of interactive panels and premiere screenings—is the can’t-miss event of the year for TV lovers. Head to Dolby Theatre (which recently hosted the Oscars) from March 15-24 to hear the cast and creators of fan-favorite shows and critical darlings share exclusive behind-thescenes scoops, hilarious anecdotes and breaking news stories from their programs. You might even get a chance to ask your favorite stars a question. Highlights from this year’s lineup include conversations with the talent behind awards-season darling The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, The Walking Dead, This Is Us and RuPaul’s Drag Race (pictured above). Plus, don’t miss a special evening with Stephen Colbert and a reunion of the cast of Parks and Recreation. See listing at right.

PPLA FOOD FARE March 7 Fortieth annual food event features tastings from more than 150 restaurants, caterers, vendors, wineries and breweries. Participating venues include AR Cucina, Baltaire, Maple, Otium and Salazar. Crustacean Beverly Hills’ Helene An is being recognized as chef of the year. Proceeds benefit Planned Parenthood Los Angeles. Daytime session 11 am-1 pm; evening session 6:30-9:30 pm. $150$350. Barker Hangar, 3021 Airport Ave., Santa Monica, 213.284.3300, pplafoodfare.com Map L9 PALEYFEST L.A. 2019 March 15-24 The Paley Center for Media hosts this annual event, with screenings and panels featuring creators and stars from top TV shows. This year’s lineup includes The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel, The Walking Dead and This Is Us, plus a conversation with The Late Show’s Stephen Colbert. Visit website for schedule and tickets. Dolby Theatre, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 310.786.1000, paleyfest.org Map H13 CASEY’S ST. PATRICK’S DAY STREET FESTIVAL March 17 This annual all-day street festival enlivens downtown L.A. with Irish food, drink specials and sets by live DJs. Headquartered at Casey’s Irish Pub, the street festival takes place in front of the pub; enter at Wilshire Boulevard and Hope Street. 6 am-1 am; festival starts at 11 am. Free general admission before 1 pm. 21+. 613 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.629.2353, caseysirishpub.com Map I16 WESTWEEK 2019 March 20-21 The West Coast’s definitive showcase for global design debuts an array of luxury furnishings and interior resources crafted by today’s foremost design innovators. This year’s “Artists & Artisans”-themed event features keynote programs, product introductions and showroom happenings, plus presentations from the nation’s leading shelter publications, editors and tastemakers. 9 am-6 pm. Pacific Design Center, 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 310.657.0800, pacificdesigncenter.com Map I12 L.A. MARATHON March 24 Established in 1986, the city’s famed race is still going strong, attracting thousands of runners from around the world who take on the “Stadium to the Sea” course. 6:30 am. Registration $210. Starting point: Dodger Stadium, 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 213.542.3000, lamarathon.com Map G17 YOUNGARTS LOS ANGELES March 26-31 Enjoy multidisciplinary performances, a cinematic arts screening and a visual-arts exhibition from rising stars who were selected by the National YoungArts Foundation to receive mentoring and national awards (Nicki Minaj is an alumna). See website for public performance schedule and tickets. youngarts.org/youngarts-la Map J10 ¡LATIN FOOD FEST! March 29-30 This seventh-annual Hispanic culinary celebration consists of a festival kickoff party, “Chefs Night Out,” and its signature

GUIDELINES Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

INDEX Special Events............60 Museums....................64 Theater........................60 Shopping...................... 68 Music + Dance............62 Spas............................70 Sports..........................62 Nightlife............................72 Attractions..................62 Beaches....................... 72 Studio Tours................64 Tours + Transport.......73 Studio Tapings............64

event, “Gran Tasting,” featuring food, wine, spirits and beer-tasting tents; celebrity-chef cooking demos; and live music. F 5:30-9:30 pm; Sa 1-4 pm, early/VIP entry noon. Tickets $25-$49; VIP $149. 21+. Santa Monica Beach, Pacific Coast Highway, Santa Monica, latinfoodfest.com Map M8

THEATER BLACK SUPER HERO MAGIC MAMA Opening March 5 Los Angeles-based playwright Inda Craig-Galván’s new play—world-premiering here—follows Sabrina, a mother who copes with her teenage son’s police-shooting death by getting lost in the comic-book fantasy world he had created. Audrey Skirball Kenis Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10 LACKAWANNA BLUES Opening March 5 Tony Award winner Ruben Santiago-Hudson both wrote and performs this personal work, taking on more than 20 colorful characters from the eccentric boarding house he grew up in in the 1950s. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 BLOCK PARTY 2019 Opening March 7 This third-annual celebration of the L.A. theater scene spotlights three encore productions from outstanding local theater companies. For the Love of (or, the Roller Derby Play) runs March 7-17; Rotterdam opens March 28. Kirk Douglas Theatre, 9820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 213.628.2772 Map L11 CINDERELLA Through March 10 In New Age’s production of the classic fairy tale, choreographer Matthew Bourne transforms the princess story into a wartime romance with a twist of Hollywood glamour—all set to a score by Prokofiev. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 LIGHTS OUT: NAT “KING” COLE Through March 24 In this musical, having its West Coast premiere here, Dulé Hill (West Wing, Psych) plays Nat “King” Cole as he faces the final Christmastime broadcast of his variety show. Gil Cates Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10 CATS Through March 24 Andrew Lloyd Webber’s iconic musical is back with new lighting design, sound design and choreography, breathing new life into the Tony winner. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 CHARLIE AND THE CHOCOLATE FACTORY Opening March 27 Roald Dahl’s story comes to the stage, featuring songs from the original film, a new score from the songwriters of Hairspray and, of course, Oompa-Loompas and the great glass elevator. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13

W The iconic Paramount Pictures logo was inspired by a mountain that founder W. W. Hodkinson remembered from his childhood in Utah. p. 64

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ATTRACTIONS SPORTS BANC OF CALIFORNIA STADIUM March 3 Los Angeles Football Club vs. Sporting Kansas City. March 10 LAFC vs. Portland Timbers. March 23 LAFC vs. Real Salt Lake. 3939 S. Figueroa St., Exposition Park, L.A., 323.648.6060 Map K15 DIGNITY HEALTH SPORTS PARK March 2 Los Angeles Galaxy vs. Chicago Fire. March 16 Galaxy vs. Minnesota United FC. March 31 Galaxy vs. Portland Timbers. 18400 Avalon Blvd., Carson, 310.630.2000 Map M15 DODGER STADIUM March 28-31 Los Angeles Dodgers vs. Arizona Diamondbacks. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 323.224.1507 Map G17

MUSIC + DANCE CENTER FOR THE ART OF PERFORMANCE AT UCLA AT ROYCE HALL March 2 Meredith Monk: Cellular Songs. March 15-16 Ohad Naharin/Batsheva Dance Company: Venezuela. March 28 Zakir Hussain & Masters of Percussion. 10745 Dickson Court, L.A., 310.825.2101 Map J10 DOROTHY CHANDLER PAVILION March 2, 7, 10, 13, 16, 24 L.A. Opera, The Clemency of Titus, conductor James Conlon, starring Russell Thomas. In Italian with projected English translations. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 THE FORUM March 9 Pandora & Yuri: Juntitas Tour. March 11 Muse: Simulation Theory World Tour. March 27-31 Cirque du Soleil: Corteo. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12  STAPLES CENTER March 10 Justin Timberlake. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15 THE THEATRE AT ACE HOTEL March 1 Sharon Van Etten. March 8 CAP UCLA presents: Carrie Mae Weems: Past Tense. March 13 Max Raabe & Palast Orchester. March 15-16 Billy Idol and Steve Stevens. March 20 CAP UCLA presents: An Evening With Lettuce and John Scofield. March 22 Cold Cave. March 23 CAP UCLA presents: Roberto Fonseca & Fatoumata Diawara. March 28 RY X. March 30 CAP UCLA presents: Nano Stern. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL March 1-3 Dudamel Conducts Mahler, featuring Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel. March 2 Colburn Orchestra, featuring conductor Xian Zhang. March 5 Bryce Dessner’s Triptych (Eyes of One on Another), featuring L.A. Phil New Music Group, conductor Sara Jobin, Roomful of Teeth. March 6 Anne-Sophie Mutter, Lambert Orkis. March 7-10 Dudamel & Yuja Wang, featuring L.A. Philharmonic. March 9 Toyota Symphonies for Youth: William Grant Still & the Harlem Renaissance, featuring conductor Jesús Uzcátegui, L.A. Philharmonic. March 10 Tafelmusik Baroque Orchestra, featuring music director and conductor Elisa Citterio, Trio Arabica. March 13 Eric Owens and Lawrence Brownlee, Craig Terry. March 16 Nils Frahm. March 17 The Duruflé Requiem, featuring Los Angeles Master Chorale, associate conductor Jenny Wong, composer Dale Trumbore. March 23 Oscar, With Love, a tribute to pianist Oscar Peterson featuring host Celine Peterson and various artists. March 24 Iron & Wine With Orchestra, featuring condcutro David Campbell. March 27 Music 101: A Symphonic Spectacular, featuring speaker Alan Chapman. March 28-31 Gershwin & Ravel, featuring L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Lionel Bringuier. March 31 American Youth Symphony, National Children’s Chorus. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

STAPLES CENTER March 1 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Milwaukee Bucks. March 2 Los Angeles Kings vs. Chicago Blackhawks. March 3 Los Angeles Clippers vs. New York Knicks. March 4 Lakers vs. Clippers. March 5 Kings vs. Montreal Canadiens. March 6 Lakers vs. Denver Nuggets. March 7 Kings vs. St. Louis Blues. March 8 Clippers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. March 9 Lakers vs. Boston Celtics. March 11 Clippers vs. Boston Celtics. March 12 Clippers vs. Portland Trail Blazers. March 14 Kings vs. Nashville Predators. March 15 Clippers vs. Chicago Bulls. March 16 Kings vs. Florida Panthers. March 17 Clippers vs. Brooklyn Nets. March 18 Kings vs. Winnipeg Jets. March 19 Clippers vs. Indiana Pacers. March 21 Kings vs. San Jose Sharks. March 22 Lakers vs. Brooklyn Nets. March 23 Kings vs. Anaheim Ducks. March 24 Lakers vs. Sacramento Kings. March 26 Lakers vs. Washington Wizards. March 29 Lakers vs. Charlotte Hornets. March 30 Clippers vs. Cleveland Cavaliers; Kings vs. Chicago Blackhawks. March 31 Clippers vs. Memphis Grizzlies. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

ATTRACTIONS AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea lions and 11,000 other animals. Daily 9 am-6 pm. $17.95-$29.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 BATTLESHIP USS IOWA Former battleship is permanently docked as a floating museum. Explore the missile decks, bridge, mess areas and captain’s cabin. Daily 10 am-5 pm; last ticket sold at 4 pm. $11.95-$19.95, under 5 free. Pacific Battleship Center, USS Iowa BB-61, 250 S. Harbor Blvd., San Pedro, 877.446.9261 Map O15 DESCANSO GARDENS Collections include coast live oaks, roses, the Oak Woodland, the Ancient Forest and an award-winning camellia garden. M, F-Su 9 am-5 pm; Tu-Th 9 am-8 pm. $4-$9, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19 DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Pirates of the Caribbean, Space Mountain and updated Star Tours. Disney California Adventure is adjacent. Call for hours. $98-$149, under 3 free. 1313 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6 DOLBY THEATRE Tour the home of the Academy Awards, formerly named the Kodak Theatre. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 10 am-4 pm. $18-$23, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13 EL CAPITAN THEATRE 1926 Spanish-style movie palace screens Disney films new and old. Musical preludes on Wurlitzer pipe organ before shows. Tours available. Call for schedule and pricing. 6838 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7674 Map H13 EL PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES Birthplace of Los Angeles; the site of this historical monument dates to 1781. Historic buildings, 11 of which are open to the public, include 1818 Avila Adobe, L.A.’s oldest. 125 Paseo de la Plaza, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17

GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction with spectacular views of L.A. and the Hollywood sign. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 JAPAN HOUSE LOS ANGELES This project from the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs features an exhibition gallery and a Monozukuri Shop with a curated selection of Japanese products, plus a café, a fine-dining restaurant, a library, an event venue and views of L.A. Su 10 am-7 pm; M-Sa 10 am-8 pm. Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Levels 2 and 5, L.A., 800.516.0565, japanhouse.jp/losangeles Map H13 L.A. LIVE Entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Microsoft Theater and the Novo by Microsoft (formerly Club Nokia), restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 LOS ANGELES COUNTY ARBORETUM & BOTANIC GARDEN Peafowl roam the grounds and roost overhead at this 127-acre garden. Daily 9 am-5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm). $4-$9, under 5 free. Free third Tuesday of the month. 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222 Map Q22 LOS ANGELES ZOO & BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them endangered, living among immersive habitats and lush gardens. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $16-$21, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD Get closer to the stars at this world-famous, interactive attraction. Find over 125 figures including pop icons, actors and actresses, plus 4-D and VR adventures and more. Daily 10 am-10 pm. $16.99–$30.95, under 3 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET Local landmark with 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 OUE SKYSPACE LA California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16 PORSCHE EXPERIENCE CENTER At the luxury vehicle brand’s 53-acre experience center, drivers 21 and over can pilot Porsche’s latest models for 90 minutes on a 4-mile driver-development track. 19800 S. Main St., Carson, 888.204.7474 Map M15 QUEEN MARY Historic ocean liner permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Tours, shops, hotel, art deco lounge, a 4-D theater and restaurants. Check queenmary.com for hours and prices. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16 RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the Oval Office. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $15-$25, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $89.99, under 3 free. Parking $17-$30. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 619.222.4732 TCL CHINESE THEATRE Historic, meticulously restored Hollywood movie palace (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre) with Imax screen and walkway of stars’ handprints and footprints in the forecourt. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.3331 Map H13

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Barkley L. Hendricks, Icon for My Man Superman (Superman Never Saved Any Black People — Bobby Seale) Seale), 1969. Oil, acrylic and aluminum leaf on linen canvas. © Estate of Barkley L. Hendricks. Courtesy of the artist’s estate and Jack Shainman Gallery, New York. Superman S-Shield © & ™ DC Comics. Used with permission.

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ATTRACTIONS

UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes eateries such as Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville and Voodoo Doughnut; clothing boutiques and novelty stores; a state-of-the-art Universal Cinema and Imax theater; and simulated skydiving wind tunnel iFly Hollywood. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. Attractions include the multisensory DreamWorks Theatre Featuring Kung Fu Panda and the Wizarding World of Harry Potter. Studio Tour includes Peter Jackson’s King Kong 360 3-D, film and TV sets. Call or check website for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377, universalstudioshollywood.com Map U20

STUDIO TOURS PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Group tours of Hollywood’s longest-operating and only remaining major studio. Reservations recommended. See paramountstudiotour.com for schedules. Studio Tour $58, under 10 not admitted; VIP Tour $178, under 10 not admitted; After Dark Tour $78, under 16 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777 Map I14 SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion-picture studio includes stages where TV shows and movies including The Wizard of Oz and Spider-Man were filmed. Reservations, photo ID required. M-W, F 9:30 am-2:30 pm; Th 9:30 am-6 pm. $45, under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, an expert tour guide, a gourmet lunch, visits to the Will & Grace set and other perks. For hours and prices, call or check universalstudioshollywood.com. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20

ome to the Aquarium of the Pacific where you and your family can get in touch with nature and marine life, any time you want. Touch sharks. Feed lorikeet birds. Watch penguins play. Over 11,000 animals await you. Don’t miss our 20th Anniversary Celebration.

562.590.3100 100 AquArium WAy, LOng BeACh, CA 90802

WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR HOLLYWOOD Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, prop warehouse, the real Friends Central Perk set, original Batmobiles and observation of filming (when possible). Deluxe tour available. Reservations recommended; photo ID required. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. $55-$68, under 8 not admitted. Parking $12. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 877.492.8687 Map U20

STUDIO TAPINGS 1IOTA Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including Jimmy Kimmel Live!, The Late Late Show With James Corden and The Voice. Minimum age 16-18, varies by show. 323.417.6550, 1iota.com AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC, Netflix and the CW that are produced in the L.A. area, such as The Big Bang Theory and Man With a Plan. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including America’s Got Talent, Dancing With the Stars and The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12-18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, mytvtickets.com

MUSEUMS THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Cultural venue dedicated to digital and print photography. W, F-Su 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa-Su. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000 Map J11 AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native American materials. Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 64 SOCALPULSE.COM

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ATTRACTIONS pm. $6-$14, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains more than 2,000 works of contemporary art. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free. Online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16

See Los Angeles. Dine Differently.

CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Exhibits showcasing the history, culture and art of African-Americans, with an emphasis on California and the western United States. Tu-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $12, $15 after 5 pm. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 213.744.7432 Map M8

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CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Permanent gallery, free. Parking $12. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 GETTY CENTER Travertine-clad hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9 GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities. W-M 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy history. Su-M, W-Th 10:30 am-6:30 pm; F-Sa 10 am-8 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15

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HAMMER MUSEUM UCLA-affiliated museum presents influential traveling shows and installations alongside its permanent collection. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.443.7000 Map J10 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART COLLECTIONS, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens; several dining concepts; a beautiful gallery; and an education and visitor center. W-M 10 am-5 pm. $13-$29, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART The largest art museum in the western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus. M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $16-$25, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST The West Coast’s largest collection of Holocaust-era artifacts housed in an award-winning architectural building. Interactive exhibits, public tours and Holocaust survivor talks. Sa-Th 10 am-5 pm; F 10 am-2 pm. Free. Pan Pacific Park, 100 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.651.3704 Map I13 66 SOCALPULSE.COM

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SHOPPING MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Premier contemporary-art museum housed in three facilities. GA, GC: M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. PDC: Tu-F 11 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-6 pm. GA and GC: $8-$15, under 12 free; free at PDC. MOCA Grand Avenue (GA), 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA (GC), 152 N. Central Ave., downtown; MOCA Pacific Design Center (PDC), 8687 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17, I12 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, human-rights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-F 10 am-5 pm. $11.50-$15.50. Anne: $12.50-$15.50. Under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.772.2506 Map J11 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. The 3.5-acre Nature Gardens and Tyrannosaurus rex growth series exhibit are highlights. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Museum displays about 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles in permanent and rotating exhibits. Daily 10 am-6 pm. $8-$16, under 3 free. Tours of newly expanded and renovated vault $20-$30, under 10 not admitted. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13 SKIRBALL CULTURAL CENTER Cultural venue highlights the American Jewish experience through engaging exhibitions and programs. The award-winning Noah’s Ark attraction is great for tots. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Thursdays. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

Travel Back in Time to 79 A.D. • Experience life in the bustling, ancient Roman city of Pompeii • Marvel at nearly 200 precious artifacts, lost for nearly 2,000 years • Relive the massive power of Mt. Vesuvius in 4D Eruption Theatre

40 Presidential Drive • Simi Valley, CA 93065 • ReaganLibrary.com

SHOPPING THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with 90 stores; a Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere; and a trolley. Kate Spade, & Other Stories and Toms are among the 90 or so stores. Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23 BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall just completed a multimillion-dollar renovation. It has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana) and is anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. New dining options include Cal Mare, Farmhouse and Easy’s diner. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CITADEL OUTLETS Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Coach, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 THE GROVE Outdoor center is home to 40 shops including Apple, Nordstrom and Elizabeth and James and restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel (creator of the Cronut), all in a setting inspired by a grand old downtown. Adjacent to Original Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13 MALIBU COUNTRY MART Outdoor center with upscale boutiques including Paige and Victoire, plus Cie Sparks salon and restaurants. Malibu Lumber Yard and Malibu Village are adjacent. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7  PLATFORM Collection of cult-favorite retailers (Magasin, The Edit by Freda Salvador + Janessa Leoné, Velvet, Aesop, Tenoverten, Bird) curated by Runyon Group in Culver City’s up-and-coming Hayden Tract neighborhood. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City, platformla.com Map M11 THE POINT Small, upscale outdoor shopping center features trendy retailers including Planet Blue, Lucky

MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com

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SPAS

Brand and Madewell; top eateries (True Food Kitchen, Umi by Hamasaku, Superba Food + Bread); and fitness destination SoulCycle. 850 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.414.5280, thepointsb.com Map L13

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E T O E

SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at the south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, including Lorna Jane and Rimowa, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Bottega Veneta, Céline, Chanel, Chloé, Gucci, plus new Alexander McQueen and Givenchy) and 40 restaurants, including Water Grill. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6 THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes shops (Anthropologie, Converse, Cotton On, Zara), kiosks and an array of entertaining street performers. 1351 Third Street Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8 TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features luxury boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus fine-art gallery Galerie Michael and restaurant 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 WESTFIELD AT LAX Travelers flying out of LAX can enjoy some of L.A.’s top retail and dining options curated by Westfield (Fred Segal, MAC Cosmetics, Petrossian, Porsche Design, SeaLegs Wine Bar, Spanx) in LAX’s Tom Bradley International Terminal, as well as terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldairports.com/lax Map O10 WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY Open-air shopping center fresh from a $1 billion revitalization has more than 175 stores including Compartés Chocolatier and Equipment; a luxe AMC multiplex with Imax scree; a food-court atrium and terrace; and the West Coast’s first Eataly. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.277.3898 Map J11

SPAS CHUAN SPA Elegant spa at the Langham Huntington, Pasadena offers treatments inspired by traditional Chinese medicine; high-tech facials; an herbal steam room, sauna and whirlpool; a fitness center; and a full-service salon. 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6414 Map R20 CIEL SPA Philippe Starck-designed modern retreat by Pearl Recovery Retreat and Wellness at the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills offers luxurious services and product lines such as Biologique Recherche, plus a full-service salon. Access to fitness center and Altitude pool deck. Herbal steam room, showers. 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5560 Map I12 HOTEL BEL-AIR SPA Valmont’s signature high-performance anti-aging products are spotlighted at the Hotel Bel-Air’s spa. Nestled in the hotel’s tropical gardens, the spa features a couple’s enclave, steam rooms, marble showers and a relaxation room. 701 Stone Canyon Road, L.A., 310.909.1681 Map I10

Connect with wildlife at the L.A. Zoo!

Get amazing up-close views of gorillas, giant otters, jaguars, stingrays, and more, and enjoy interactive experiences like giraffe feedings and the all-new ﬂamingo encounter. You’ll ﬁnd that around here, fun just comes naturally. Open daily. Free parking.

LA PRAIRIE SPA The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills’ opulent, 5,000-square-foot spa offers luxurious facial, nail and body treatments using products from the renowned La Prairie skin care line. 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6740 Map J11 THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA, LOS ANGELES The 8,000-square-foot, Hollywood-inspired spa at the Ritz-Carlton at L.A. Live offers a glamorous coed lounge, separate lounges with eucalyptus steam rooms and cold-plunge showers, a couple’s suite, a hair salon and a boutique. 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.4400 Map I15

Don’t miss SPRING FLING at the L.A. Zoo! March 23 – April 28 Details at LAZoo.org/SpringFling

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NIGHTLIFE SPA AT BEVERLY WILSHIRE The spa features an aromatherapy crystal steam room; Natura Bissé, Évolué and Elemis products and services. The Nail Bar offers shellac manicures and pedicures. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.385.7023 Map J11 THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS Petite luxury spa with Easternand Western-style body treatments, an adjacent Nail Suite and facials. 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.273.4444 Map J11 SPA MONTAGE The last word in luxury spas, with deluxe services including L.Raphael facials and facilities including saunas, steam rooms, whirlpools, showers and a coed mineral pool. Also on-site are Kim Vo Salon and Gornik & Drucker barbershop. 225 N. Cañon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7840 Map J11 THE SPA AT TERRANEA Terranea resort’s indoor-outdoor spa offers 25 treatment rooms; a fitness and wellness center; an outdoor spa pool; a café; a full-service salon; and spa lounges with saunas, steam rooms, whirlpools, cold plunges and fire pits. 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2740 Map O13

NIGHTLIFE 1 OAK Strikingly seductive, art-filled club. 9039 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.2326 Map H12 THE ABBEY David Cooley’s world-famous gay bar and nightclub. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 BASEMENT TAVERN Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.2469 Map M8

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BREAK ROOM 86 1980s-style bar inside the Line Hotel with karaoke suites and live entertainment. 630 S. Ardmore Ave., L.A., 213.368.3056 Map west of H15

Sizes 12 & up

THE BUNGALOW Seaside cottage-style nightspot with gourmet bites by Fig Restaurant. The Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530 Map L8 DOHENY ROOM Stylish art deco-style bar and lounge from the SBE Group offers a diverse menu by Cleo chef Danny Elmaleh. 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.777.0266 Map H12 HARLOWE Spacious, vintage-glam restaurant and bar from the 1933 Group. 721 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.876.5839 Map H13 LA DESCARGA Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Upscale dress code. 1159 N. Western Ave., L.A., 323.466.1324 Map east of H14 THE NICE GUY H.Wood Group’s reservations-only, Italian-inspired restaurant and mixology lounge. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.360.9500 Map I12 PERCH Open-air roost in a historic building; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is underneath. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 SEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-in-cheek hunt-club decor. Intimate Bar Jackalope is hidden in the back and features more than 120 premium whiskeys. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16

BEACHES

Visit our flagship store

BELMONT SHORE Wide and sandy; on-site dog beach. Along Ocean Boulevard, from 54th Place to Belmont Pier, Long Beach Map O17

8315 West 3rd St. Los Angeles

CABRILLO BEACH Inside the breakwater it’s a stillwater beach, and on the ocean it’s a surf beach. Public boat-launching ramp on harbor side. 40th Street and Stephen M. White Drive, San Pedro Map O15

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TOURS + TRANSPORT DOCKWEILER STATE BEACH Wide expanse of beach near LAX. 3.7 miles of ocean frontage and 255 acres of beach near LAX. Bonfires permitted. 12501 Vista del Mar, Playa del Rey Map C1

WILL ROGERS STATE BEACH Sandy 3-mile beach is starting point for the Marvin Braude Bike Trail. Popular for swimming and skin diving; volleyball courts. 17700 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades Map K7

EL MATADOR STATE BEACH One of the prettiest beaches in L.A. County. Steep stairs lead to 18 acres of narrow, sandy beach with scenic rock formations. 32350 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9

ZUMA BEACH The ultimate SoCal beach. Food stands at each end of its 4-mile expanse along PCH. Beach wheelchairs available. 30000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K7

EL PESCADOR STATE BEACH Stairs lead to 10 acres of narrow, sandy beach. 32900 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map north west of K9 HERMOSA BEACH 2-mile stretch of beach along Santa Monica Bay with combination bike path/boardwalk and pier. Metered street parking. Hermosa Avenue and 33rd Street, Hermosa Beach Map L13

20 CENTURY

LEGENDS

LEO CARRILLO STATE BEACH 1.5 miles of beach for swimming, surfing, windsurfing, surf fishing, plus tide pools, coastal caves and reefs for exploring. There are two sections of beach along a loop road of a campground. 36000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 MALIBU LAGOON STATE BEACH 167-acre beach includes Malibu Pier, Malibu Lagoon, Surfrider Beach, the Adamson House and a museum that highlights the area’s history. 23050 and 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 MALIBU SURFRIDER BEACH World-renowned surfing area between Malibu’s pier and lagoon. Swimming areas are limited. 23050 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 MANHATTAN BEACH Beach is dotted with beachvolleyball nets and bisected by a 900-foot pier featuring the recently renovated Roundhouse Aquarium. Metered street and lot parking. 400-4500 The Strand, Manhattan Beach Map L13 MARINA/MOTHER’S BEACH Non-ocean-facing beach best suited for children and windsurfers. 4135 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey Map N9 NICHOLAS CANYON BEACH 23-acre beach is less crowded than many others in Malibu and is one of the few perfect point breaks left in L.A. County. 33850 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 PENINSULA BEACH Moderate width, sandy. Along Ocean Boulevard, 54th Place to 72nd Place, Long Beach Map O17 POINT DUME BEACH Cliffs border the beach, one of the most beautiful along the L.A. coastline. 7103 Westward Beach Road, Malibu Map northwest of K9

Visit Hannibal Lector’s Jail Cell from The Silence of the Lambs, in the Dungeon of Doom

REDONDO BEACH A 1.5-mile beach that runs south of the pier to Torrance Beach. 400-1700 Esplanade, Redondo Beach Map M13 SANTA MONICA STATE BEACH 3.5-mile-long beach features wide, sandy expanses divided by the iconic Santa Monica Pier. 100-2900 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica Map M8 TOPANGA BEACH Rocky and narrow Malibu beach is a popular surfing spot but unsafe for swimming. 18700 Pacific Coast Hwy., Topanga Map northwest of K9 VENICE BEACH Famous boardwalk with street performers and shops is one of SoCal’s biggest attractions. The north end is home to “Muscle Beach.” 2700-3100 Ocean Front Walk, Venice Map N9 WHITE POINT BEACH/ROYAL PALMS Rugged, rocky shoreline is popular with divers, shell collectors and surf casters. Tide pools. 1799 Paseo del Mar, San Pedro Map O14

TOURS + TRANSPORT AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservations recommended. Call or check website for hours and prices. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium, which recently hosted the World Series, allows guests to visit the field, dugout and more. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 866.363.4377 Map G17 HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from dinner and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 855.290.0383, hornblower.com Map O9 METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Santa Monica, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net METROLINK Regional train system connects L.A. County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown L.A. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com STARLINE TOURS Celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tours throughout the day, as well as tours to beaches, theme parks and more. The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour makes more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13 TMZ CELEBRITY TOUR, HOLLYWOOD Two-hour bus tour highlights celebrity hot spots in Hollywood, Beverly Hills and on the Sunset Strip, brought to life with videos from TMZ’s on-air stories and the occasional star sighting. See website for pickup locations, hours and prices. 844.TMZ.TOUR (869.8687), tmztour.com

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WHERE 30 THINGS WE LOVE

The lucite LALA LÉXA Victoria clutch, designed and made in Los Angeles. lalalexa.com

Panoramic skyline views from the iconic Griffith Observatory. p. 62

Small shows with big-name comedians at Dynasty Typewriter. dynastytypewriter.com

Suiting accessories for dapper dudes at Pocket Square Clothing, downtown. p. 36

Southern-inspired barbecue at Baby Blues BBQ. 213.529.4062

Elegant chain earrings with white pavé at Gabriela Artigas’ Melrose boutique. p. 26

The hypnotic Ms. Universe cocktail at Silver Lake Filipino restaurant Ma’am Sir. p. 16

Tuna melts and milkshakes at classic diner Cassell’s Hamburgers. 213.387.5502

Succulent brick chicken paired with Italian wines at new Mora Italiano, tucked into a Valley strip mall. 818.386.0278

Weekday brunch at Ostrich Farm in Echo Park. 213.537.0657

Showstopping cocktails at The Green Room lounge in Burbank. 818.962.4446

Spirits from actor Walton Goggins’ Mulholland Distilling. mulhollanddistilling.com

Botanical scents at L.A.-based P.F. Candle Co.’s first store, in Echo Park. 323.284.8431

Stylish shoes at Jimmy Choo co-founder Tamara Mellon’s first permanent store. 424.210.7583

Shopping fair trade goods at The Little Market in Palisades Village. 424.266.4660

California-centric wines at Chinatown’s LA Wine. lawineforever.com

Coffee and pie at Daniel Patterson’s Adams Coffee Shop. adamscoffeeshop.com

Wagyu biscotti at Sherman Oaks’ Sushi Note. 818.802.3443

Miso de leche cookies at chef Kuniko Yagi’s hot new karaage spot, Pikunico. p. 15

Classical pianist Yuja Wang in concert at Walt Disney Concert Hall, March 7-10. p. 62

Picture-perfect mani-pedis at celeb fave Olive & June. 310.247.0500

where in the world

WHERE is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com UNITED STATES Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul,

Chef Mei Lin’s standout Asian fare served in a stunning space at Nightshade. p. 16

The sweet songs in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, opening at the Pantages on March 27. p. 60 Premium teas and ocean views at The Veranda at the Georgian Hotel. 310.883.6255

Le Néant, Kevin Lee’s new omakase drink experience above the Wolves, downtown. 213.394.9265

Chef Jason Fullilove’s soulful jambalaya at his Barbara Jean stand at The Fields LA. 213.419.9465 West Coast-cool activewear at San Diego-based Vuori’s South Bay shop. p. 44 Decadent desserts and floral teas at Lady M’s cake boutique. 323.825.8888 The classic-film programming at Quentin Tarantino’s New Beverly Cinema. 323.938.4038 The Moët & Chandon vending machine at supper club Mama Lion. 213.377.5277

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