Downtown Delights

Experience the Resurgence of L.A.’s Urban Center

by LAUREN QUINN

Downtown Los Angeles is a multicultural neighborhood like no other. The district, much of it revitalized, brims with history and exudes a metropolitan buzz. Vintage theater marquees abut cutting-edge architecture, galleries and museums abound, and industrial chic warehouses house trendy restaurants and stylish shops. Quirky independent stores lend local charm and parks offer a respite of green. Luckily for visitors, L.A.’s most urban neighborhood is also its most walkable. So throw on some sneakers, soak in the culture, taste the treats, and experience what the heart of the city has to offer.

[ 1 ] Flor y Solera YOU WON’T find paella at tapas bar and restaurant Flor y Solera. Recently opened in the Arts District, its ambitious menu intentionally steers clear of typical Spanish food and instead thoughtfully represents fare from Spain’s distinct regions. Feast on succulent grilled Iberico pork and earthy Catalan rabbit stew, then wash it down with a glass of Basque txakolina (sparkling wine) or a house-made floral Unicornio cocktail. Bold colors and mosaic tiles make for a lively dining room, and the attentive service ensures your night will be one to remember. 1335 E. 6th St., Los Angeles

[ 2 ] The Music Center ONE OF the nation’s largest performing arts organizations, the Music Center is the cultural and artistic heart of Los Angeles, home to heavy hitters like the L.A. Philharmonic, L.A. Opera, and Center Theatre Group. Spread across five impressive buildings, the center includes the architectural masterpiece Walt Disney Concert Hall, which currently offers free, selfguided tours—and plenty of photo ops—the Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, the Ahmanson Theatre, the Mark Taper Forum, and Redcat/CalArts Theatre. May’s offerings include Ziggy Marley at Disney Hall, Otello at the Chandler, and dancers-illusionists MOMIX, at the Ahmanson. 135 N. Grand Ave., Los Angeles

[ 3 ] MOCA Grand THE ONLY artistfounded museum in Los Angeles, MOCA GRAND, also known as the Museum of Contemporary Art, is an institution like no other. The red sandstone building, designed by Pulitzer-winning architect Arata Isozaki, featuring pyramidic skylights, is reason enough to visit. Then there are underground galleries, home to one of the most compelling, provoc- ative, and extensive contemporary art collections in the country. The permanent collection includes works by David Hockney, Cindy Sherman, and Jasper Johns, as well as emerging Southern California artists like Rafa Esparza and Petra Cortright. Best of all, museum entrance is free.

250 S. Grand Ave., Los Angeles

[ 4 ] Sendero THE ELEVATOR ride to the 24th floor of the Ritz-Carlton hotel isn’t the only journey you’ll take at Sendero. On site are four restaurant spaces, each dedicated to a different Latin American cuisine. Seafood-focused Corteza at Sendero features tiradito, ceviche, and tuna tostada; Argentine-inspired Leña at Sendero boasts lavish platters of Wagyu and dry-aged beef; the Agave Library caters to tequila and mezcal lovers and offers an intimate tastingmenu experience. The fourth restaurant, Volante, opens later this year.

While the flavors may transport you across the Americas, the stunning, unparalleled views will remind you that you’re right here in Los Angeles.

900 W Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles

[ 5 ] ROW LA HOUSED IN a complex of former warehouses, Row DTLA offers industrial chic shopping at its best. Murals and stringed lights adorn well-worn facades across 32 acres of stores, restaurants, and offices, and ficus trees and benches make it a relaxing spot for an afternoon stroll. Dine at Michelin-starred restaurant Hayato, sip espresso at local-favorite Go Get Em Tiger, and shop at internationally hip women’s clothing boutique Bel Kazan and L.A.-cool apparel and home goods shop General Store. Not enough? Head upstairs for a movie screening at the Rooftop Cinema Club; on Sundays, enjoy diverse culinary offerings from food vendors at Smorgasburg; and shop for time-tested fashions at the monthly Pickwick Vintage Show.

777 S. Alameda St., Los Angeles

[ 6 ] Butterfly Pavilion WING INTO spring at the Natural History Museum’s Butterfly Pavilion, now open for a seasonal outdoor event that is as educational as it is magical. Walk through the netted enclosures and see more than 30 species of butterflies as they flutter between California native plants. Their lifecycle is on display, from egg to caterpillar to chrysalis, to butterfly, which makes it perfect for kids, nature lovers, or anyone needing a boost of wonder. You can also head indoors to the National History Museum, where you can encounter replicas of dinosaurs, view mammal dioramas, and experience a touching tribute to L.A.’s favorite mountain lion, P-22. 900 Exposition Blvd., Los Angeles patisserie and market that are the most impressive. The French bakery features cakes, pastries, confections, and a rainbow assortment of signature macarons, which make an elegant gift for the sweets lover in your life (who also might be you).

700 S Grand St., Los Angeles

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Bottega Louie FOR THE quintessential downtown confection, head to Bottega Louie. The grand, historic interior exudes a classic, old-world allure with soaring white walls, marble floors, and bustling, black-tie waiters. The space houses a 225-seat Italian restaurant and a stylish bar, but it’s the

[ 8 ] The Last Bookstore IT MAY not be the last bookstore, but it may be the coolest. Housed in a two-story, 100-plus--year-old former bank, the independent shop is California’s largest new and used book and record store. It’s the book installation art, though, that’s the most delightfully unusual. Walk through a book tunnel, snap a photo in the book peephole, gaze at a display of books “flying off the shelves,” visit the Arts & Rare Book Annex, and then sink into a plush lounge chair and enjoy some titles in this oasis of literature.

453 South Spring St., Los Angeles

[ 9 ] Grand Park STRETCHING

FROM four blocks from the Music Center to City Hall, Grand Park offers 12 acres of much-needed green in the heart of downtown. The urban oasis boasts tree-shaded walkways, drought-tolerant plants, picnic tables, and a playground. On a hot day, kids (and adults) love splashing in the lower pool of the interactive Arthur J. Will Memorial Fountain. Look out for ongoing events like the weekend Easy Mornings, which includes family-friendly activities focused on art, wellness, and nature, and Lunch à la Park, a lunch-hour collection of popular L.A. food trucks that congregate Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays.

200 N Grand Ave, Los Angeles

[ 10 ] Grand Central Market

THERE'S A reason Grand Central Market is on almost every downtown visitor's itinerary. What other historic icon is so tasty? Housed in a Beaux-Arts building, GCM has been satisfying hungry Angelanos for over 100 years. Today, the market's 40 food stalls are a mix of legacy vendors and local culinary all-stars. From Thai comfort food to vegan ramen, Berlin-style currywurst to artisanal PBJ sandwiches, you can't find a better representation of L.A.'s thriving food scene. Don't miss the grass-fed burgers at For The Win, the Filipino rice bowls at Sari Sari Store or the on-tap beers of hometown favorite Golden Road Brewery. Step under the buzzing neon signs, traverse the crowd-filled aisles, and shout your order over the din of happy diners.

317 S Broadway St., Los Angeles