LOS ANGELES NOV
2019
SIP LOCAL WINE & SPIRITS DINE AT HOT NEW RESTAURANTS GET TO KNOW HIGHLAND PARK
GAME PLAN LEVEL UP BY ADDING FUN & GAMES TO YOUR NOVEMBER NIGHTS OUT
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nov 2019
contents Departments Hot Dates 6 Where Now 8 Maps 75 30 Things We Love 80
NOV
2019
DINE AT HOT NEW RESTAURANTS GET TO KNOW HIGHLAND PARK
GAME PLAN LEVEL UP BY ADDING FUN & GAMES TO YOUR NOVEMBER NIGHTS OUT
BOUTIQUE NOW OPEN Westfield Centur y City (310) 772-0988
Caviar service at Birdie G’s
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SIP LOCAL WINE & SPIRITS
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Imperial Western Beer Company at Union Station
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A Hop-chelada and an arcade game at Highland Park’s Barcade. Photo by Wonho Frank Lee
features
12 Night Moves
Los Angeles has a bevy of beautiful bars, but this month, we’re bringing the fun and games back to nightlife. Beat your high score in Pac-Man or Skee-Ball, take a moonlit hike, or go behind the scenes at a craft distillery for a unique night out. By Andrea richards
The guide 52 62 64 68
70 Entertainment 72 Attractions 73 Shopping 73 Dining
Spas Nightlife Beaches Explore
17 Stellar Dining
The 2019 Michelin Guide California—Michelin Guide’s first-ever statewide edition in the U.S. and its first red guide to include Los Angeles in a decade—bestows 30 stars on 24 local restaurants. Can you say bucket list? By Suzanne ennis C o nnect w i th u s o nl i ne socalpulse . com
from top: Jim Sullivan; Wonho Frank Lee
L U C KY M O V E CO L L E C T I O N
city tours 21 Beverly Hills 22 Santa Monica 26 West Hollywood 30 Hollywood 34 Downtown 38 The Valley 42 Pasadena 44 South Bay 48
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HOT DATES
Artistic Leaps
NOVEMBER
EVENTS Nov. 14-24 Since bowing in 2012, L.A. Dance Project has graced venues around the world. But this fall, the contemporary dance company is saluting its roots and creative collaborators with L.A. Dances, a six-week festival comprising 10 L.A. premieres (six of them are world premieres) of dance works presented at its downtown performance/ rehearsal space. During Program C, audiences can catch five, including two dances by celebrated LADP artistic director Benjamin Millepied. ladanceproject.org
GREAT THINGS THIS MONTH HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Check out our Weekend Roundup at SoCalPulse.com
Nov. 2
During this fifth annual festival, enjoy free family-friendly activities, workshops and tours at world-class cultural venues including the Broad, MOCA and the new Music Center Plaza. grandavearts.org
DISNEY PIXAR COCO— A LIVE-TO-FILM CONCERT EXPERIENCE Nov. 8-9
Celebrate Día de los Muertos at the Hollywood Bowl, where beloved animated Oscar winner Coco will come to life with the vocal talents of Benjamin Bratt, Eva Longoria, Miguel and others. p. 64
THE LOS ANGELES COFFEE FESTIVAL
BURBANK WINTER WINE WALK
RENEGADE CRAFT FAIR
Wake up and smell the coffee at this fest, where you can enjoy interactive demos, food, cocktails, live music, art, film and, of course, unlimited coffee from the likes of Coffee Manufactory and Lamill, all at DTLA’s Magic Box @ the Reef. la-coffeefestival.com
Get into the holiday spirit as Burbank welcomes winter with wine and beer tasting, plus a festive street fair complete with live entertainment, vendors, holiday lights and snowfall. p. 62
Get a head start on holiday shopping at this free pop-up market at Los Angeles State Historic Park, where you’ll find giftable goods from over 300 makers. Food trucks, seasonal cocktails, vinyl DJ sets and workshops are also on offer. p. 62
DESSERT GOALS
Nov. 16-17
Nov. 8-10
Nov. 9-10, 16-17 Satisfy your sweet tooth with pie, ice cream, churros, cookies—and Instagram photo ops galore—at this Tie Dye Tiki-themed sugary showcase at Evolve Project L.A. dessertgoals.com
Nov. 16
RUNNING UNIVERSAL FEATURING JURASSIC WORLD Sprint your way through Universal Studios Hollywood and its historic backlot in a 5K or 10K race (kids can get in on the fun with a 1K Raptor Run), then experience the thrilling new Jurassic World—The Ride. p. 66
Nov. 23-24
THE THANKSGIVING PLAY All month
See Thanksgiving in a new light after watching Larissa FastHorse’s satire at the Geffen, which follows three “woke” white thespians as they struggle to plan a politically correct elementary school pageant for the holiday. p. 62
BENJAMIN MILLEPIED
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GRAND AVE ARTS: ALL ACCESS
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INDULGE IN EVERY CRAVING BAKE CHEESE TART | DEL FRISCO’S DOUBLE EAGLE STEAKHOUSE EATALY | LA COLOMBE | SAINT MARC | THE CRACK SHACK PLUS OVER 200 STORES, INCLUDING 60 EATERIES
@WestfieldCenturyCity
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WHERE NOW NOVEMBER
DINING
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All-Day Decadence
V DTLA, a European-inspired social dining destination that recently debuted downtown, is a showstopper of a restaurant. When you step inside, you’re greeted by lush greenery, marble design accents, graffiti-meets-Greek-art murals and sky-high ornate ceilings. The space was most recently home to Mexican restaurant Màs Malo, but back in the 1920s, it was the flagship of Brock Jewelry; V cleverly repurposes the store’s former jewelry vault (which now serves as an intimate dining room), and its centerpiece ground-level bar is inspired by Brock’s original jewelry counter. V’s versatility is also impressive: You can stop by in the morning for a cup of Vagabond Coffee and pastries from Mr. Holmes Bakehouse, plug in your laptop and get to work in one of its plush booths. In the afternoon, meet up with colleagues for a power lunch. And come nighttime, tasty sourdough pizzas made in a massive custom-built oven and playfully presented cocktails (see the Smoking Pot, below) make it a prime date-night spot. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, v.restaurant/los-angeles
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A spread of dishes at Birdie G’s
EXCITING NEW EATS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: JIM SULLIVAN; WONHO FRANK LEE; COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS. OPPOSITE: COURTESY V DTLA
American Beauty A MODERN STEAKHOUSE ON VENICE’S HIP ROSE AVENUE The Venice-based restaurateurs behind neighborhood favorites Superba Food + Bread and the Tasting Kitchen have teamed up for a new dinner spot inspired by classic American steakhouses. At American Beauty, chefs Anthony Goodwin and Elisha Ben Haim grill high-quality meats over an almond-wood fire and serve them alongside fresh seafood, local produce and decadent sides—standout menu items include the Flannery 30-day dry-aged prime porterhouse and stuffed hash browns. The craft cocktail program is on point, and the wine list boasts a selection of over 200 bottles. Before the steakhouse was ready to open, the spot had already gained popularity with its walk-up concept The Window, which serves its own version of the ever-popular smashburger and will remain open at lunchtime. 425 Rose Ave., Venice, 310.412.0075, americanbeauty.la
Birdie G’s THE RUSTIC CANYON FAMILY’S LATEST CHARMER James Beard Award-nominated chef Jeremy Fox’s newest restaurant is a family affair. Named after his daughter Birdie and grandmother Gladys, the latest addition to the Rustic Canyon Family restaurant group boasts a large menu, and every item has a story behind it. The regional American cuisine highlights various parts of the country where Fox has lived: the Midwest, the South and his current home of California. Fast-favorite dishes include a range of Texas Toasts and a satisfying mashup of Hangtown fry and matzo brei dubbed “Hangtown Brei.” And don’t skip dessert—the Rose Petal Pie is a sweet standout. The restaurant’s supper and cocktails are served in a former art museum within Santa Monica’s historic gallery complex Bergamot Station— a convenient stop on the Metro Expo Line. 2421 Michigan Ave., Santa Monica, 310.310.3616, birdiegsla.com
Bon Temps
The Cliffdiver
GOOD TIMES AND FRENCH FOOD IN THE ARTS DISTRICT
COCKTAILS AND CEVICHE IN A SUNNY SEASIDE SPACE
Foodies are raving about this new California brasserie next door to the Arts District’s Firehouse Hotel. It’s the first restaurant from veteran pastry chef Lincoln Carson (Mina Group, Superba Food + Bread), and while the menu makes use of the local bounty, strong French influences are apparent in canapés including uni caviar tartelettes; desserts like the towering chocolate soufflé and the St. Honoré; and a bar program that celebrates French drinking culture. After debuting with dinner, Bon Temps expanded its hours to offer patisserie service and market lunch during the day— and Carson’s morning pastries, including a perfect croissant, are not to be missed. The industrial-chic space (a former Heinz loading dock) boasts two kitchens, a 30-foot Carrara marble bar and alfresco alleyway seating. 712 S. Santa Fe Ave., downtown, 213.784.0044, bontempsla.com
Sure, it’s fall, but SoCal’s beach cities offer draws year-round. Case in point: The Cliffdiver, a gorgeous jewel box of a restaurant that just started serving modern Mexican coastal-inspired fare in a historic police station along PCH in Malibu. Fresh seafood and ceviche star on the menu, but farmers-market-driven vegan options are also available. To drink, there are frozen cocktails (watermelon-mint frozé, anyone?) and an expansive mezcal selection. The dining room feels like a 1960s beach house, with patterned wallpaper, gallery walls, pops of color and the original floor tile—it’s meant to transport guests to the “Rat Pack heyday” of Acapulco. On the front patio, you can relax with a drink over a game of shuffleboard or bocce ball with friends, making it a perfect gathering place for locals, beachgoers and visitors. 21337 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 424.235.2595, thecliffdiver.com
From left: Alfresco dining at the Cliffdiver; the Crudite Martini at Bon Temps
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WHERE NOW NOVEMBER
Thirsting for local flavor? In July, Angeleno Wine Co. opened the doors to a tasting room at its Chinatown winery—the first new winery to open in downtown L.A. since Prohibition. On weekends, visitors can sample and purchase its natural, vegan wines (pictured here), mostly made from Spanish and French varietals grown at Alonso Family Vineyard, just 40 minutes away (1646 N. Spring St., angelenowine. com). Speaking of Prohibition, Long Beach’s first distillery, Portuguese Bend, takes its name from a stretch of Palos Verdes coastline notorious for booze smuggling during the era.
The distillery/restaurant has been pouring its “grain to glass” spirits alongside comfort-food favorites since June (300 The Promenade North, 562.435.4411, portuguesebenddistilling.com). On the suds front, L.A.-based, The Big Lebowski-loving The Dudes’ Brewing Co. was on the verge of opening its sixth SoCal outpost, in Hollywood, at press time (6615 Hollywood Blvd., 323.321.6056, thedudesbrew.com), and Torrance’s first multiconcept brewery and food hall, The Brews Hall @ Del Amo, was hot on its heels (21770 Del Amo Circle East, thebrewshall.com).
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DAVID BENJAMIN SHERRY; DYLAN + JENI; WONHO FRANK LEE (2). OPPOSITE: COURTESY ANGELENO WINE CO.
NIGHTLIFE
The Local Buzz
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F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O I N H I G H L A N D PA R K , V I S I T S O C A L P U L S E . C O M
ONE BLOCK THINGS TO DO IN
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DAVID BENJAMIN SHERRY; DYLAN + JENI; WONHO FRANK LEE (2). OPPOSITE: COURTESY ANGELENO WINE CO.
HIGHLAND PARK
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Owl Bureau; drinks and tunes at Gold Line Bar; the lanes at Highland Park Bowl; paella at Otoño
DO
EAT
DRINK
SHOP
Highland Park has become one of the city’s hottest ’hoods, and Figueroa Street boasts a bevy of draws. Bowl a strike at Highland Park Bowl, a stunningly restored 1927 alley. Catch the latest flicks at Highland Theatres, and concerts across the street at Lodge Room. And get your Zen on with a class at Kinship Yoga.
Fill up on tapas and paella at Spain-meets-L.A. restaurant Otoño. James Beard Award winners Nancy Silverton and Matt Molina serve up slices at Triple Beam Pizza, and Molina’s Hippo is next door. Vegans will love Kitchen Mouse and Burgerlords. And Café Birdie is a cute neighborhood bistro serving California cuisine.
Good Housekeeping is a cozy cocktail bar tucked behind Café Birdie. The midcentury-meetsindustrial ETA offers excellent drinks and food. At Gold Line Bar, hear tunes from DJ Peanut Butter Wolf’s record collection. In the morning, get your caffeine fix at Go Get Em Tiger, Kindness & Mischief Coffee or Civil Coffee.
Minimalist shop Sonomama is inspired by the Japanese wabi-sabi philosophy. Skater fave The Quiet Life sells hats and tees. For vintage duds, head to The Bearded Beagle. Stock up on vinyl at New York transplant Gimme Gimme Records. And browse new and vintage books and magazines at edgy new bookshop Owl Bureau.
Highland Park Bowl highlandparkbowl.com
Highland Theatres highlandtheatres.com
Lodge Room lodgeroomhlp.com
Kinship Yoga kinshipyoga.com
Otoño otonorestaurant.com
Triple Beam Pizza triplebeampizza.com
Hippo hipporestaurant.com
Kitchen Mouse kitchenmousela.com
Burgerlords burgerlords.com
Café Birdie cafebirdiela.com
Good Housekeeping goodhousekeepinghlp.com
ETA etahlp.com
Gold Line Bar goldlinebar.com
Go Get Em Tiger gget.com
Kindness & Mischief Coffee kandmcoffee.com
Sonomama shopsonomama.com
The Quiet Life thequietlife.com
The Bearded Beagle thebeardedbeagle.com
Gimme Gimme Records gimmegimmerecords.com
Owl Bureau chandeliercreative.com
Civil Coffee civilcoffee.com WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 11
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NIGHT MOVES
Bringing the Fun and Games Back to Nightlife
by ANDREA RICHARDS
There are some nights when a low-key staple—say dinner and a movie or a nightcap at the neighborhood bar—is the perfect balm. But other times, the favorite standbys are, well, too staid, and the routine is in a rut. It’s time for putting the fun back in a night out. Fortunately, after the sun goes down, L.A. is one big playground with plenty of offerings for offbeat entertainment. Whether it’s roller boogie, shuffleboard, karaoke or a moonlit hike, there’s an activity that will inspire you to bust out some new moves. Because why should we save the fun and games for the kids? Adults want to play too. 12 SOCALPULSE.COM
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Magic
dario griffin. Opposite: jakob laymaN
Let’s just be honest: Some of us harbor dreams of becoming a magician’s assistant—and, at least for a night, we can. The holy grail for great magic in L.A. is Hollywood’s Magic Castle (7001 Franklin Ave., magiccastle. com), a private club for prestidigitation—but gaining entry can be a feat. For an interactive, immersive experience that’s easier to access, check out mentalist and magician Franco Pascali’s show, The Magic Show at the Roosevelt (7000 Hollywood Blvd., themagicshow.com), held in an intimate theater at the historic Hollywood hotel—21-yearold phenom Pascali’s a frequent performer at the Magic Castle as
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well. There’s also Black Rabbit Rose (1719 N. Hudson Ave., blackrabbitrose.com), a magicthemed bar with live magic shows, as well as sleight-of-hand acts featuring a rotating roster of magicians and illusionists.
Night Hikes It’s one thing to jog Runyon Canyon or take a walk through one of L.A.’s many great parks during the day, but at night you’ll see a whole new side of the city’s natural wonders—plus incredible skyline views. Since there are delicate ecosystems to protect, we recommend only doing a night hike with an approved group, such as the Sierra Club, which hosts weekday evening
hikes on the trails of Griffith Park (meetup.com/Sierra-ClubGriffith-Park-Hikes), or the Santa Monica Mountains Fund (samofund.org), which leads a monthly full moon hike in various parks. For less rigor and more literature, try Clockshop’s Reading by Moonlight series (clockshop. org), which features local writers, a campfire and even s’mores. The readings are held in the California State Parks-owned parcel called the Bowtie Project, located near the L.A. River in Frogtown. Another place to enjoy some nocturnal nature is at WanderPLAY, held at Descanso Gardens (1418 Descanso Drive, descansogardens.org),
where adults can play under the stars with meditation, dance and movement exercises.
Arts & Crafts Nighttime might be the right time to let your inner Picasso shine, and a painting class at The Art Room LA (3129 1/2 Glendale Blvd., theartroomla.com) will supply the canvas, along with snacks, drinks and a mini painting lesson. Located in Atwater Village, the shop offers nightly classes for individuals and special themed parties. Or head to the Craft Contemporary (5814 Wilshire Blvd., cafam.org), a museum that hosts a craft night on the first Thursday of every month. If sipping a cocktail
From left: A magician performing at Black Rabbit Rose; Lost Spirits Distillery’s rum
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might assist your creativity, Silver Lake’s longtime neighborhood bar Akbar (4356 W. Sunset Blvd., akbarsilverlake.com) has a craft night at 9 p.m. on Wednesdays. If ceramics and clay are calling and there are two or more of you, book a pottery-making party at Echo Park’s radical ceramics studio, Pot (1933 Echo Park Ave., potstudiola.com).
Dancing It’s a sad fact of modern existence that none of us do enough dancing, so throw on some cowboy boots and right this wrong at Studio City’s Oil Can Harry’s (11502 Ventura Blvd., oilcanharrysla.com). This legendary nightclub offers line-dancing lessons on Tuesdays and Fridays, salsa dancing on Thursdays, and disco nights over the weekend. There’s 1990s throwback decor at The Friend in Silver
Barcade, a huge spot with over 70 games (5684 York Blvd., barcadelosangeles.com), and Free Play (3939 S. Figueroa St., freeplaydtla.com), chef Timothy Hollingsworth’s take on the rec-room den that occupies the second story of the Fields LA.
Lake (2611 Hyperion Ave., thefriendbar.com), but most of the late-night action is under the disco ball on the dance floor. For Westsiders, there’s sister bar The Little Friend in Venice (822 Washington Blvd., thelittlefriendbar.com). And loads of local bars have tiny but happening dance floors, like Fairfax’s The Dime (442 N. Fairfax Ave.), as well as Silver Lake’s Akbar (go for craft night, stay to dance).
Game Night Nowadays there’s a great bar for every retro pastime, be it outdoor shuffleboard at Highland Park’s Block Party (5052 York Blvd., blockpartyhlp.com) or Skee-Ball at downtown’s Arts District Brewing Co. (828 Traction Ave., artsdistrictbrewing.com). It’s a bonus when fun activities also happen to take place inside beautifully restored historic buildings, like bowling at Highland Park Bowl (5621 N. Figueroa St., highlandparkbowl.com) or chess at Imperial Western Beer Company, located inside historic
Laugh Out Loud
Union Station (800 N. Alameda St., imperialwestern.com). As for vintage video games, there’s no lack of great barcades in L.A.—almost every neighborhood has a place to get a Pac-Man fix, a beer and a bite to eat. There’s pinball at Walt’s Bar (4680 Eagle Rock Blvd.) in Eagle Rock; Starry Kitchen eats plus arcade games at Echo Park’s Button Mash (1391 W. Sunset Blvd., buttonmashla.com); and hipsters galore at downtown’s EightyTwo (707 E. 4th Place, eightytwo.la). The new kids at the arcade are Highland Park’s recently opened
Sometimes the best exercise is a big belly laugh, and the most reliable place to find those is the classic cabaret Largo at the Coronet (366 N. La Cienega Blvd., largo-la.com), which boasts a variety of musical and comedic performers, from Jon Brion to Nicole Byer. Comedy venue Dynasty Typewriter (2511 Wilshire Blvd., dynastytypewriter.com), inside the historic Hayworth Theatre, offers a no less eclectic set of performers, including Marc Maron, Ilana Glazer and Margaret Cho. Pair laughs with libations at downtown’s Ace Hotel, home of Stand Upstairs (929 S. Broadway, acehotel.com), a free stand-up show held on the first Thursday of each month, and
clockwise from top left: craft contemporary, los angeles; gabe huerta; Ace Hotel Downtown Los Angeles; Sina Araghi. Opposite, clockwise from top left: OUE Skyspace LA; Jakob Layman; Greenbar Distillery
Clockwise from top left: A flower dyeing workshop at the Craft Contemporary; shuffleboard at Highland Park’s Block Party; live comedy at the Ace Hotel’s Stand Upstairs; a pottery class at Echo Park studio Pot
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Clockwise from top left: The view from OUE Skyspace LA at night; the Stiegl Rock at chef Timothy Hollingsworth’s Free Play; behind the scenes at Greenbar Distillery
Amuse Bouche, a pop-up event hosted by comedian Karl Hess and held at the Virgil Village wine bar Melody (751 N. Virgil Ave., melodyla.com).
Mind Expansion You’ve exercised your feet on the dance floor and your funny bone at stand-up comedy shows, so now it’s time to exercise your mind. Luckily, you’re in a city that’s full of late-night classes, tours and museums with extended hours. First, learn a little something about what you like to drink with a wine workshop at the Beverly Hills Cheese Store
(419 N. Beverly Drive, cheesestorebh.com), or take one of many distillery tours available downtown. The utterly unique Lost Spirits Distillery (1200 E. 5th St., lostspirits.net) lets you into the lab where R&D happens for its exceptional whiskey and rum, whereas a 45-minute tour at The Spirit Guild (586 Mateo St., thespiritguild.com) includes a tasting of its Astral Pacific Gin. On Saturdays, Greenbar Distillery (2459 E. 8th St., greenbardistillery.com) teaches its visitors about fermentation, infusion and distilling—and offers
a sample of its organic spirits. Distill a different kind of wisdom on a walking tour hosted by the nonprofit Los Angeles Conservancy (laconservancy. org), which allows a look into the city’s storied past. Its “A Woman’s Place” tour explores the linked histories of women in Chinatown and Union Station and includes a ride on the Metro Gold Line. Another tour, “Above the Skyline,” takes place atop the OUE Skyspace LA observation deck and discusses the evolution of downtown. The tour ends with a trip down the Skyslide, the glass-enclosed slide that’s almost a thousand feet above the city.
Slip & Slide If you don’t take a trip down the Skyslide on the Conservancy tour, then how about trying it out after a few drinks at Skyspace Nights (633 W. 5th St., oue-skyspace.com)? OUE Skyspace LA’s late-night program takes place every Friday and Saturday and includes a drink at the new Garden Bar. After fortification, maybe that 45-foot slide down the side of the iconic U.S. Bank Tower building won’t feel so scary. If you’d rather do your sliding on wheels, check
out one of the city’s historic roller-skating rinks, including the recently reopened World on Wheels (4645 Venice Blvd., wowskatela.com) in Mid-City and Glendale’s Moonlight Rollerway (5110 San Fernando Road, moonlightrollerway.com).
Supper Club Crooning Karaoke is always a good idea, and L.A. has many great options, including private rooms and classic karaoke lounges, but two staples as far as bars go are the always-crowded Cafe Brass Monkey (3440 Wilshire Blvd., cafebrassmonkey.com) and Break Room 86 (630 S. Ardmore Ave., breakroom86.com), both in Koreatown. Those craving inspiration before hitting the stage can learn from legends at Los Feliz’s Dresden Room (1760 N. Vermont Ave., thedresden.com), where the dynamic duo of Marty and Elayne have been in residency for nearly 40 years. Belting out the best in covers and jazz standards, these crooners embody the best of classic L.A. nightlife. WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 15
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BEVERLY HILLS OPEN LATER DAYS
EXPERIENCE THE HOLIDAYS IN BEVERLY HILLS Beginning Thursday, November 14 with the Rodeo Drive Holiday Lighting Celebration, join us for spectacular lighting displays throughout the City of Beverly Hills. BOLD Holidays will also feature evening shopping on Fridays & Saturdays, live entertainment, music, an interactive photo experience with The Scenario Studio and much more!
LOVEBEVERLYHILLS.COM/BOLDBH #BOLDBH
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STELLA R D I N I N G Last spring, Michelin bestowed a constellation of stars on Greater Los Angeles restaurants in its inaugural Michelin Guide California. The revelation broadcast globally what locals and savvy travelers already knew: The City of Angels is a world-class dining destination.
JILL PAIDER PHOTOGRAPHY
by SUZANNE ENNIS
Shiso tartare topped with borage flowers at Somni
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Chef Jon Yao of Kato. Left: The restaurant’s spot prawns and peas
Around the turn of the 20th century, French tire tycoons the Michelin brothers began publishing travel tips and hospitality recommendations to entice motorists to hit the road. Few would have guessed that the promotional gimmick would go on to wield enormous power in the fine-dining world. Today, however, the Michelin Guide rates more than 30,000 establishments across 80 countries, and a rating in the prestigious red guide—especially in the form of one, two or three stars—is an internationally recognized symbol of a restaurant’s excellence. So it was with great fanfare that this past June, at a live ceremony in Huntington Beach, international director of the Michelin Guides Gwendal Poullennec announced the venerable company’s selections for the 2019 Michelin Guide California—its first-ever statewide guide in the U.S., launched in partnership with Visit California, which expanded the selections in this year’s San Francisco edition. Ninety restaurants from Wine Country to San Diego, including 24 in Greater L.A., received one or more stars. “This unprecedented expansion of the Michelin Guide gives full credit to California and its leading role as a culinary powerhouse,“ Poullennec told the assembled journalists and chefs. L.A.’s inclusion marked the first time Michelin visited California’s most populous county since 2009, when, amid the recession, it ceased publication of its L.A. guide after a two-year run. The timing proved
unlucky. “When Michelin left L.A. 10 years ago, they left a city whose dining scene was about to explode,“ says Michael Cimarusti, 2019 James Beard Award winner for Best Chef: West and owner/chef of two-starred Hollywood restaurant Providence. In the years that followed, the culinary culture in L.A. blossomed to a point where Michelin’s absence was conspicuous. “Now that Michelin is back, they will find a city with a monstrous dining scene—the pace of expansion here in L.A. has been remarkable,“ says Cimarusti. “I don’t envy the inspectors tasked with trying to keep up with it all.“ Providence is one of just six restaurants in L.A.’s vast, varied and boundary-pushing dining scene that earned two stars in the new California guide. Also in the two-star
Kali chef/ co-owner Kevin Meehan
category are chef Niki Nakayama’s seasonal kaiseki restaurant, n/naka; chefs Aitor Zabala and José Andrés’ intimate tasting-menu concept, Somni, inside the Bazaar by José Andrés at SLS Hotel, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Beverly Hills; the West Coast location of Edomae sushi restaurant Sushi Ginza Onodera (whose NYC location also boasts two Michelin stars); chef Hiroyuki Urasawa’s eponymous sushi restaurant, Urasawa; and Vespertine, from Alinea and French Laundry alum chef Jordan Kahn. Of the six two-starred restaurants, four didn’t exist a decade ago. The other two— Providence and Urasawa—were also recognized in both the 2008 and 2009 guides. “For me, retaining our stars was a validation of the fact that we have maintained our standards over the 10 years that the guide was absent,“ says Cimarusti. (“For over a decade, Providence has been at the forefront of L.A.’s fine-dining scene. Little has changed here, which is a beautiful thing,“ reads Michelin’s description of the restaurant.) Consistency, both over time and across the menu, is one of five criteria used by Michelin’s anonymous inspectors to judge whether an establishment deserves inclusion in its iconic red guide. Quality of the ingredients, the cooking skills and the harmony of the flavors, the personality of the chef expressed in the cuisine and value for money also factor into the ratings, according to the company.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: WONHO FRANK LEE; COURTESY KATO; RACHEL JACOBSON. OPPOSITE: JAKOB LAYMAN
TH E STARS ARE S H I N I N G O N CE AGAI N I N TH E CITY O F A N G ELS .
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L.A. STAR TOUR
Put rubber to the road and check out these Michelin-starred L.A. restaurants, organized by neighborhood.
BEVERLY HILLS
DOWNTOWN
HOLLYWOOD
**Somni (p. 52)
*Hayato Row DTLA, 1320 E. 7th St., Suite 126, 213.395.0607, hayatorestaurant.com
**Providence (p. 52)
**Urasawa 218 N. Rodeo Drive, 310.247.8939 *CUT (p. 54) *Maude (p. 54) *Nozawa Bar 212 N. Canon Drive, 424.216.6158, nozawabar.com
CULVER CITY **n/naka 3455 S. Overland Ave., 310.836.6252, n-naka.com
*Le Comptoir Hotel Normandie, 3606 W. 6th St., 213.290.0750, lecomptoirla.com *Orsa & Winston (p. 54) *Q Sushi (p. 55) *Shibumi 815 S. Hill St., 323.484.8915, shibumidtla.com
**Vespertine (p. 54)
MICHELIN GUIDE
**TWO STARS “Excellent cooking, worth a detour” *ONE STAR “High quality cooking, worth a stop”
*Kali 5722 Melrose Ave., 323.871.4160, kalirestaurant.com *Osteria Mozza (p. 52) *Trois Mec (p. 56)
SANTA MONICA *Dialogue (p. 57) *Rustic Canyon (p. 57)
SAWTELLE *Kato 11925 Santa Monica Blvd., 424.535.3041, katorestaurant.com *Mori Sushi 11500 W. Pico Blvd., 310.479.3939, morisushila.com
*Shunji 12244 W. Pico Blvd., 310.826.4737, shunji-ns.com
THE VALLEY *Bistro Na’s 9055 Las Tunas Drive, Suite 105, Temple City, 626.286.1999, bistronas.com *Shin Sushi 16573 Ventura Blvd., Suite 14, Encino, 818.616.4148
WEST HOLLYWOOD **Sushi Ginza Onodera 609 N. La Cienega Blvd., 323.433.4817, onodera-group.com
Providence pastry chef Mac Daniel Dimla’s whitesesame crémeux with Moro blood-orange sorbet
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Caviar with pork belly, hazelnut and smoked strawberry bubbles at Dialogue, chef Dave Beran’s 18-seat tasting-menu restaurant in Santa Monica
Wolfgang Puck, Osteria Mozza and Mori Sushi, as well as chef Hiroyuki Naruke’s Edostyle sushi temple, Q Sushi; James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran’s Dialogue; Curtis Stone’s wine-region-inspired Maude; Ludo Lefebvre’s Trois Mec; chef Gary Menes’ vegetable-forward Le Comptoir in the Hotel Normandie; and chef Jon Yao’s Taiwanese tasting-menu restaurant, Kato. (See the full list on the previous page.) A tiny, unpretentious spot set in a Sawtelle strip mall, Kato represents Michelin’s (and, more generally, fine dining’s) expansion beyond European-style, whitetablecloth restaurants in recent years. Yao opened Kato in 2016 with little more than a few stages under his belt; he’s since been named a Food & Wine magazine Best New Chef, Forbes 30 Under 30 selection and
Chefs and spouses Niki Nakayama (left) and Carole Iida-Nakayama of n/naka
James Beard Foundation Rising Star finalist. In an Instagram post celebrating the restaurant’s first Michelin star, Yao hinted at an even greater ambition. “It definitely feels rewarding to receive affirmation from a long standing tradition that we all aspire to,“ he wrote. “So to team Kato—congratulations, you guys did it, now two more to go.“ Three stars, Michelin’s highest accolade, have proved elusive for L.A. There were other surprising omissions from the 2019 guide, too. Still, the city’s proud of those restaurants that did make the cut, and Poullennec sees a bright future. “We all feel at Michelin that [this] is only the very beginning,“ he said at the unveiling of this year’s stars—an optimistic view shared by Cimarusti, who predicts, “As the California guide evolves, I think L.A.’s light will continue to shine.”
FROM TOP: ERIN SIMKIN; ZEN SEKIZAWA
In addition to the star system is a designation called Bib Gourmand, established in 1997, which Michelin reserves for “hidden gems to complete the selections ... that are more widely accessible for diners.“ The new California guide includes 151 Bib Gourmand eateries; around 60 of those are in Greater L.A., including a handful of locally renowned Chinese and Mexican food spots and such lauded restaurants as Kismet, Cassia and Majordomo. The latest distinction to be added to the guide is the Michelin Plate, which denotes restaurants that serve “simply a good meal.” Altogether, there are now a whopping 657 Michelin-distinguished restaurants across the state. Many chefs see recognition in the guide, especially in the form of one or more stars, as validation not only of the restaurant’s excellence, but also of their own hard work and talent. “It’s been a career goal of mine to be able to be included in the Michelin Guide. It has taken many years to perfect my craft to get there,“ says chef Kevin Meehan, whose seasonal California restaurant, Kali— which Michelin praises as “the very essence of neighborhood dining“—was one of 18 L.A. restaurants to receive a single star. What’s more, the honor can be great for business. “The Michelin Guide has been a game changer for our small restaurant,“ says Meehan, who opened Kali with former Providence wine director Drew Langley three years ago. “Overall, the staff’s morale is up, our new demographic of guests are the best, and business has increased. What more could we ask for as restaurateurs?“ Other restaurants in the single-star category include repeat recipients CUT by 20 SOCALPULSE.COM
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EXPLORE THE CITY Los Angeles is the most populous county in the nation and among the most culturally diverse. Its 4,000 square miles encompass dozens of cities and more than 200 neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. The pages that follow will guide you through the most visited among them, pointing out starring attractions and uncovering hidden gems along the way.
CITY TOURS AT A
GLANCE
Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown The Valley Pasadena
SANTA MONICA PIER, PHOTO BY LISA CORSON
South Bay
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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN
Beverly Hills BEVERLY HILLS LOOMS LARGE IN POP CULTURE AS A POSH LOCALE HOME TO THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS ZIP CODE.
The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the opening of the Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of some 35,000 is more socioeconomically diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest. Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts famous and fabulously wealthy residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the area, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles. Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Mansion, which has appeared in The Big Lebowski and Gilmore Girls. Its graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.
RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Canon Drive. MCM Worldwide, Celine and Balenciaga recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding shoppers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to fineart destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive. Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this
stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, which boasts dining concepts by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and beside it, the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out thousands of square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.
THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment
businesses based here. Rub shoulders with the powerlunchers at E. Baldi, La Scala or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Canon Drive. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Even more cultural programming can be found at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.
CENTURY CITY GREAT FIND
Sustainable Style >Eco-conscious womenswear brand and e-tailer Whimsy + Row has set down roots with a brick-and-mortar boutique in idyllic Mar Vista, adjacent to Culver City. The L.A.-based, women-owned company makes its feminine styles sustainably and ethically. At the shop, find its full collection, along with goods from local, like-minded businesses. 12801 Venice Blvd., L.A., 424.500.2405, whimsyandrow.com
Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.3-square-mile modern acropolis of Century City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are the Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: EDWIN SANTIAGO (2); COURTESY WALLIS ANNENBERG CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS. BOTTOM LEFT: WILLIAM PERLS; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY LADURÉE
THE MANSIONS
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Shopping on Canon Drive in Beverly Hills; House of Bijan on Rodeo Drive; the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts
INSIDER TIPS
The Sweet Life Beverly Hills boasts beaucoup European-style patisseries and cafés. Ladurée macarons
Chaumont 143 S. Beverly Drive, 310.550.5510
L’Tarte Boutique Café 200 S. Beverly Drive, 424.777.0033
Ladurée 311 N. Beverly Drive, 310.623.1100
La Provence Patisserie & Café 8950 W. Olympic Blvd., 310.888.8833
Le Mervetty 319 N. Canon Drive, 310.804.9409
Le Pain Quotidien 9630 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.859.1100
’Lette Macarons 9466 Charleville Blvd., 310.275.0023
Oro Caffé 9559 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.888.8714
Tarte Tatin Bakery & Café 200 S. Beverly Drive, 424.777.0033 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 23
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New in Town Amá•cita
Chef Josef Centeno has transformed his BäcoShop space into a fun new Tex-Mex eatery with a California twist. 9552 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 424.523.3300
Jaffa Palms
Jaffa’s first location on 3rd Street quickly became a huge hit, and now the team is serving its modern take on Eastern Mediterranean cuisine in Palms. 10306 Venice Blvd., L.A., 424.298.8180
TAGS
Platform in Culver City
won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which unveiled dozens of new boutiques and eateries after a dramatic redevelopment in 2017. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, the latter of which is in the residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.
UCLA A few miles northwest of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden on
the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7.5-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens. The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings and cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.
WESTWOOD VILLAGE Just south of the campus, the pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue
is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.
CULVER CITY Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with trendy bars and restaurants. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. As you travel east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the Helms Bakery complex, which contains a dozen high-end furniture showrooms. Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 20 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. Near the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is the ultra-hip
Platform lifestyle complex, plus a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent expansion, connects downtown L.A. and Santa Monica. Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose city seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios opened on Washington; in 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including Singin’ in the Rain and The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, and the site is home to Sony Pictures Studios, where such hits as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! are taped. Experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.
> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF BEVERLY HILLS, SEE PAGE 76.
KATIE GIBBS
This travel-clothing brand carries easyto-wear, fashionable pieces perfect for a jet-set lifestyle. 259 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.360.1660
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SHOPPING EXPERIENCE AN EXTRAORDINARY COLLECTION OF 250 BOUTIQUES AND 30 RESTAURANTS Alexander McQueen · Apple · Bottega Veneta · Brunello Cucinelli · Camilla · Cartier · Chanel · Christian Louboutin Dior · Dior Men · Dolce&Gabbana · Furla · Gianvito Rossi · Givenchy · Golden Goose · Gucci · Longchamp Louis Vuitton · Maje · Max Mara · Microsoft · Moncler · Moynat · Prada · Saint Laurent · Sandro Ted Baker London · Tiffany & Co. · Tory Burch · Valentino · Van Cleef & Arpels · Vans Din Tai Fung · Hamamori Restaurant & Sushi Bar · Knife Pleat · TERRACE by Mix Mix
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San Diego FWY (405) at Bristol St., Costa Mesa, CA SOUTHCOASTPLAZA.COM 800.782.8888 @SouthCoastPlaza #SCPStyle
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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN
Santa Monica THE COASTAL CITY’S BUSTLING DOWNTOWN, BEACH AND PIER ATTRACT MILLIONS OF VISITORS PER YEAR.
Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, perpetually teems with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at two cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists. If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to the Independence or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at the Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats. Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the toplevel Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles. Santa Monica Pier, built in
1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.
MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V. and Malin+Goetz. Father’s Office is known for its burgers, and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes. Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe. The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era
home, as is the aptly named Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.
now a stop on the Expo Line— has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to about 30 galleries and a café.
THE ARTS
MALIBU
Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in a structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s 499-seat performing-arts, film, dance and theater venue. On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center—
A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrityhome central continues today. Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and
GREAT FIND
New Kid on the Block >Formerly the Zimmer Children’s Museum, the Cayton Children’s Museum just opened its new 21,000-square-foot facility at Santa Monica Place. It features an array of immersive experiences for young adventurers and provides fun and active ways for kids to develop their character and “play their way to a better world.” 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 424.416.8328, caytonmuseum.org
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: NATALIA MACHEDA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; LISA CORSON; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: MATHEW TUCCIARONE; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY CARBON38
THIRD STREET + THE PIER
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Pacific Park at the Santa Monica Pier; the Italian-esque Venice Canal Historic District; open-air shopping center Santa Monica Place
INSIDER TIPS
Fit & Fine Sweat in style wearing the latest from these fitness-apparel shops.
Carbon38
ALO Yoga 1422 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 424.252.2660 and Palisades Village, 1060 Swarthmore Ave., L.A., 424.223.5707
Athleta 1318 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.3040
Avocado 1348 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.452.1968 and 1239 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 424.744.7747
Carbon38 Palisades Village, 15273 Palisades Village Lane, L.A., 310.300.3806
Sweaty Betty 1308 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.260.4998 and 1112 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.3675
Vimmia 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Suite 116, Brentwood, 424.208.3532 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 27
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New Newin Town
In Town
ba&sh
This elegant Parisian brand just opened its second West Coast store at chic Malibu Country Mart. 23410 Civic Center Way, Malibu, 424.235.2339
Birdie G’s
Chef Jeremy Fox took inspiration from his grandmother’s dishes and added a modern, California spin at his new restaurant. 2421 Michigan Ave., Santa Monica, 310.310.3616
Birkenstock
The German brand is now selling its iconic sandals at its second U.S. retail store. The airy, beachy shop feels right at home in Venice. 1208 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.310.8448
Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square. Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon. Inland is wine country, where you can sample the local vino (and feed a giraffe!) at Malibu Wine Safari.
TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and
restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining. There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades. Upscale momand-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. Palisades Village—from the developer of The Grove and The Americana at Brand—recently opened with over 40 uniquely curated boutiques. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a koiand swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.
VENICE Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become
Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, lined with multimilliondollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Bazar, Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose CaféRestaurant and Café Gratitude, plus a smattering of hip shops including Parachute. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, what with performers, vendors and Muscle Beach bodybuilders.
BRENTWOOD Marilyn Monroe once called this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite celebrity stomping
ground. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The Brentwood Country Mart, a charming open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings upscale. The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that boasts J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection and a beautiful Central Garden.
MARINA DEL REY Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors assorted ways to get out on the water.
> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF SANTA MONICA, SEE PAGE 76.
LISA CORSON, USED BY PERMISSION OF THE J. PAUL GETTY TRUST
The Central Garden, created by artist Robert Irwin, at the Getty Center
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Time-tested for 85 years and counting. Since 1934, The Original Farmers Market has been L . A .’s favorite gathering spot for locals and visitors alike. This living time capsule of Los Angeles history and culture is home to over 100 artisan grocers, eclectic shops and world-class eateries. No wonder it endures as one of L.A.’s favorite places to grab a bite, find the perfect souvenir and make a memory. Open daily.
6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES 323.933.9211 • FARMERSMARKETLA.COM #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta
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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN
West Hollywood LOCALS AND TOURISTS ALIKE FLOCK TO WEHO’S ART GALLERIES, BOUTIQUES, RESTAURANTS AND NIGHTCLUBS.
After dark, this iconic strip of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Boulevard becomes one of the hottest stretches of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Newer nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase leading names and emerging stars in stand-up, and restaurants such as Tesse and Boa Steakhouse offer upscale fare. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic. Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.
And across the street, the property once known as “Riot Hyatt,” thanks to overzealous guests like Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones and Guns N’ Roses, is now the chic Andaz West Hollywood.
SUNSET PLAZA Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s eurozone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley girl. For up-to-the-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/ Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington. Then, refuel at Obicà Mozzarella Bar or Le Petit Four.
MELROSE AVENUE Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with
trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has multiple personalities. One part of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops. Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene. Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-block
GREAT FIND
Handbag Heaven >Last fall, secondhand luxury-handbag retailer Rebag simultaneously opened two L.A. boutiques in the city’s most exclusive shopping destinations: Melrose Place and Beverly Hills. At the Melrose outpost, tucked inside an ivy-covered building, you can buy—or sell—your own designer bag. You’ll also find the popular Rebag Bar and the signature Hermès Birkin Wall. 8461 Melrose Place, L.A., 844.373.7723, rebag.com
stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up at chic Nine Zero One salon and cutting-edge boutiques such as Irene Neuwirth, Mansur Gavriel and the Apartment by the Line.
WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its offerings are a new Acne Studios flagship and the first freestanding RH Modern Gallery on Melrose Avenue. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex— monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect César Pelli—which houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners. Nearby are upscale dining options including Cecconi’s, Craig’s and Gracias Madre.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY BEVERLY CENTER; DALE BERMAN; COURTESY ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY REBAG; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY VISIT WEST HOLLYWOOD
SUNSET STRIP
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The luxury wing at the recently remodeled Beverly Center; the Petersen Automotive Museum; a vendor at the Original Farmers Market
INSIDER TIPS
Selfie Service Strike a pose in front of the area’s oh-so’grammable backdrops.
Michael Turchin’s Dirty Pop mural
Alfred in the Alley 8509 Melrose Place, L.A.
Chris Burden’s Urban Light at LACMA 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A.
Colette Miller Angel Wings outside St. Regis Wine & Liquor 8401 W. 3rd St., L.A.
Hello mural at Carrera Cafe 8251 Melrose Ave., L.A.
Made in L.A. mural 8025 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood
Marisabel Bazan’s Dance of the Butterflies mural 621 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood
Michael Turchin’s Dirty Pop mural at Mondrian 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood
Paul Smith’s Pink Wall 8221 Melrose Ave., L.A.
RETNA mural outside Craig’s 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 31
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W sho a st m sho
New in Town
Chris Burden’s Urban Light at LACMA
Bandier
The luxury activewear line’s new West Coast flagship is a threestory space with a café, fitness studio and, of course, shoes and apparel. 8101 Melrose Ave., L.A., 213.433.3203
The Kassi Club
Restaurateur Nick Mathers is behind this new-age Greek taverna serving up Mediterranean food and cocktails. 8422 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.545.6743
Pizzana
BEVERLY + WEST 3RD
rant Jaffa. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals.
ROBERTSON BOULEVARD Robertson Boulevard is no longer a paparazzi magnet, but it’s still home to shops that appeal to the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts, Peri.A for trend-driven looks and Kitson and Kitson Kids for L.A.-inspired gifts. A Chanel concept store and edgy multibrand boutique Curve illustrate the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive. Between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail at Bibo Ergo Sum or crab cakes on the picketfenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele. The District by Hannah An and A.O.C., popular for power lunches, are just off Robertson.
FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring Mid-Wilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/ West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive. Additional venues on this Museum Row include the renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and Craft Contemporary. South of the museums is a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where traditional restaurants are located. To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with dining spots like French
bistro République and La Brea Bakery and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, pizzerias, a stand with authentic Louisiana gumbo and a new location of Trejo’s Tacos. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrianonly shopping center. The Grove has the character of an oldfashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple and Charlotte Tilbury are joined by myriad restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel (inventor of the Cronut) and a Halo Top Scoop Shop.
> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF WEST HOLLYWOOD, SEE PAGES 76-77.
LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD
Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing and accessories designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which just underwent a multimilliondollar renovation. Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci and Louis Vuitton boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments. On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as OK for design-oriented gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and modern Israeli restau-
EDWIN SANTIAGO
This upscale pizzeria’s first location earned a spot on the Michelin Bib Gourmand, and now you can taste its Naplesstyle pies in WeHo. 460 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.4662
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3rdStree
With over 75 destination shops, acclaimed restaurants and independent specialty stores West 3rd Street is the most walkable dining and shopping district in the center of Los Angeles.
Comprised of six connecting blocks between La Cienega Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue, West 3rd Street is just moments from The Grove, The Original Farmers Market, The Beverly Center and The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA).
A WALKABLE DINING & SHOPPING DISTRICT “Between La Cienega and Fairfax”
@WESTTHIRDSTREET
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WOMEN Alexis Bittar . . . . . . . . . . . C August . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Bead Boutique (+ Men) . E Bedhead Pajamas . . . . . Q Elaine Kim . . . . . . . . . . . . C KFK Jewelers . . . . . . . . . E Kinsley James Couture Bridal . . . . . .F Lot Stock and Barrel . . . C M. Cohen Designs (+ Men) . . . . . . . . . . . Q Mom’s the Word . . . . . . U Monserat De Lucca . . . . .P 6 Nathalie Seaver Boutique . . . . . . . . . . Q NFP New Form Perspective . . . . . . . R noodle stories . . . . . . . . . E Parliament . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Polkadots & Moonbeams . . . . . . . C 5 Pyrrha (+ Men). . . . . . E Ragdoll LA . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Raquel Allegra . . . . . . . . Q Shopaholic Sample Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .T Wardrobe Department . Q William B. + Friends . . . . Q
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QUALITY FOOD & BEVERAGE
THE ORLANDO HOTEL
WITTMORE
8030 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 658-5959
8384 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com
8236 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 782-9791 shopwittmore.com
HOME & GIFTS Aero Shade Co Inc . . . . .P Allan Jeffries Framing . . E Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Craft in America Center . . . . . . . . . . . . B Freehand Gallery . . . . . . B MUD Australia . . . . . . . . . R Portola Paints & Glazes . G The Sill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J Vitsoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R MEN Douglas Fir . . . . . . . . . . . E Lot Stock and Barrel . . . C M. Cohen Designs. . . . . Q 3 Wittmore . . . . . . . . . . R
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DAN DEUTSCH OPTICAL OUTLOOK
PYRRHA
NATHALIE SEAVER FRENCH STYLE BOUTIQUE
8358 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 658-6181 dandeutschopticaloutlook.com
8315 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com
8360 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 653-8286 maison-nathalie.com
PETS Vanderpump Dogs . . . . .S
FA I R FA X AV E N U E
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FOOD & DRINK Belcampo Meat Co . . . . K Berri’s Cafe on Third . . . .P Blending Lab. . . . . . . . . . U Bluestone Lane . . . . . . . . .S Carmela Ice Cream. . . . U Cleo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q El Carmen . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Electric Karma . . . . . . . . R Four Winters . . . . . . . . . . K Gelataria Uli . . . . . . . . . . .T Goal Sports Cafe . . . . . . Q Groundworks . . . . . . . . . J JAFFA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Joan’s on Third. . . . . . . . Q The Little Door . . . . . . . . .S The Little Next Door . . . .S Magnolia Bakery. . . . . . . C Mainland Poke . . . . . . . . Q Mama’s Secret Bakery & Cafe . . . . . Q Mercado . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Plancha Tacos . . . . . . . . . R Prime Cutts . . . . . . . . . . . Q 1 Quality Food & Beverage . . . . . . . . .T Simplethings Restaurant . . . . . . . . . Q Sockerbit . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Son of a Gun . . . . . . . . . . Q Sweetfin Poke . . . . . . . . . K Sweetgreen . . . . . . . . . . K Toast Bakery Cafe . . . . . G Verve Coffee Roasters . K
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OPTICAL & SERVICES 4 Dan Deutsch Optical Outlook. . . . Q 2 Orlando Hotel . . . . . . Q uBreakiFix . . . . . . . . . . . . Q
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BEAUTY & FITNESS Aesop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q AIR - Aerial Fitness . . . . . .P Alchemy 43 . . . . . . . . . . . .S AuraCycle . . . . . . . . . . . . .F The Bar Method . . . . . . . .P Benefit Cosmetics . . . . . C Blow Me Away Blow Dry Bar . . . . . . .G
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Bronzed and Sugared . . .S Bunda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F Clark Nova Salon . . . . . . .S Credo Beauty . . . . . . . . . E Drybar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Face Haus . . . . . . . . . . . . C Le Labo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C MudbuM . . . . . . . . . . . . . J Murad. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G SkinSense Wellness Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Spoke & Weal . . . . . . . . . G Swerve Studio. . . . . . . . . R Taboo Hair Care . . . . . . . .P Uvasun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R WOLA Fitness . . . . . . . . U
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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN
Hollywood HOLLYWOOD + HIGHLAND Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the annual Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Lucky Strike Live, dining spots and unique shops and boutiques. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity handand footprints embedded in the concrete out front.
SHOWTIME Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe
organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre— built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre regularly stages megahit musicals (such as The Book of Mormon and Hamilton), and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.
WALK OF FAME The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks— Pee-wee Herman has a star, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hol-
lywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.
MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift and Lady Gaga. You
GREAT FIND
Sweet Spot >At Tuesday’s Sweet Shoppe in Los Feliz, candy is a family affair—Emily Roiff owns the store with her husband and her brother, and named it after her daughter, Tuesday. Inside, find over 200 types of bulk candy, plus a chocolate gallery wall with brands from all over the world. Our picks? Rosé-flavored cotton candy and “frittle”—chocolate-covered peanut brittle. 1937½ Hillhurst Ave., L.A., 323.763.0115, tuesdaysla.com
can ponder zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Records Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions. Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.
AROUND VINE The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment-industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences and its Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Holly-
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JONALYN SAN DIEGO, UNSPLASH; COURTESY TCL CHINESE THEATRE; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY TUESDAY’S SWEET SHOPPE; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: FRANK ZHANG, UNSPLASH
HOLLYWOOD IS IN THE MIDST OF A NEW GOLDEN AGE, AND HIP LOS FELIZ AND SILVER LAKE SHARE THE LIMELIGHT.
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THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: TCL Chinese Theatre; the Hollywood Museum OPPOSITE: The roof at Griffith Observatory
INSIDER TIPS
House Hunters The Eastside is full of architectural stars, but please check before stopping by—only a few offer public access. Stahl House
Bubeshko Apartments 2036-2046 Griffith Park Blvd., Silver Lake
The Ennis House 2607 Glendower Ave., Los Feliz
Hollyhock House 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.988.0516 (tours offered)
Neutra VDL House 2300 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, neutra-vdl.org (tours offered)
The Paramour Estate 1923 Micheltorena St., Silver Lake, 213.999.0920
Silvertop 2138 Micheltorena St., Silver Lake
The Sowden House 5121 Franklin Ave., Los Feliz
Stahl House 1635 Woods Drive, L.A., 208.429.1058 (prepaid tour reservations required) WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 35
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RE
New Newin Town
In Town
Happy Socks
The Swedish brand known for its fun, colorful socks has a new Silver Lake shop—stop by to pick up a pair. 3902 Sunset Blvd., L.A., happysocks.com
Intelligentsia
This specialty coffee-bar chain is an L.A. favorite, so it’s only natural that it’s now offering its highquality caffeine fix along the Hollywood Walk of Fame. 6401 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 213.277.9095
Paradise City Records
wood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across Hollywood Boulevard is dance club Avalon Hollywood. Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia. A couple of blocks west is Space 15 Twenty, an Urban Outfitters retail concept/mini complex that caters to shoppers with an outsize UO store and space for art, events, performances and pop-up shops.
a lively bar-and-club scene permeates the district. On and around Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at the library-themed Study Hollywood, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to clubs and eateries, including Beauty & Essex. Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is one of the most memorable experiences in L.A.
NIGHT CRAWLING
LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE
The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife, and
These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county (and
perhaps the country). Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and eateries that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Restaurants such as Atrium represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Soap Plant/Wacko and Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House. At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at Forage, Sawyer and Kettle Black, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther
east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.
GRIFFITH PARK Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood (3 miles round trip) provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,870-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.
> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF HOLLYWOOD, SEE PAGE 77.
DALE BERMAN
Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House
You can find a wide variety of vinyls, vintage video games, comics, toys and more at this retro one-stop shop. 5009 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.486.7887
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REF: W B S T H – H OL LYWOOD M A DE HE RE – WHE RE LA MAGAZ INE
DATE : 14 .0 8 .2 0 19
HOLLYWOOD MADE HERE BOOK ONLINE AND SAVE
a© & TM WBEI. WONDER WOMAN and all related characters and elements are © & TM DC Comics and Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. (s19) HARRY POTTER characters, names and related indicia are © & TM Warner Bros. Entertainment Inc. Harry Potter Publishing Rights © JKR. (s19)
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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN
Downtown UNION STATION Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 80-yearold station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or the Expo Line to Santa Monica. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys.
GRAND AVENUE The heart of L.A.’s performingarts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of
stages at the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming. After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park, between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.
BUNKER HILL Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe
Broad. Both sites house premier collections of contemporary art. Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (seen in La La Land) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, reopened recently after repairs. Farther down Grand, at 5th Street, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, site of the OUE Skyspace LA attraction. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.
OLVERA STREET The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781,
GREAT FIND
California Connoisseurs >For a sip of something local, head to cozy Chinatown wine bar LA Wine, just steps from the Gold Line Metro station. Inside, you’ll find an affordable, curated list of solely California wines (plus a selection of beers). Owner David DeLuca recently launched a namesake house label too, consisting of a syrah and chardonnay. Enjoy a glass, then buy a bottle to go. 900 N. Broadway, Suite 1070, downtown, lawineforever.com
is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.
HISTORIC DISTRICTS Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theater District, home to once-opulent movie palaces. Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel), have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, constructed in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner. Spring Street from 4th to 7th
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY UNION STATION; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY LA WINE; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: PABLO ENRIQUEZ, COURTESY COS
DTLA COULD NOT BE HOTTER RIGHT NOW, WITH NEW RESTAURANTS AND SHOPS OPENING DAILY IN TRENDY ’HOODS.
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The fountain at Grand Park, in the heart of downtown Los Angeles; Union Station, built in 1939; dancing at historic Olvera Street
INSIDER TIPS
Urban Style These fashionable menswear shops keep L.A.’s downtown crowd looking on point.
COS
3.1 Phillip Lim 734 E. 3rd St., 213.246.2588
Acne Studios 855 S. Broadway, 213.243.0960
Apolis Alchemy Works, 826 E. 3rd St., 855.894.1559
COS 313 W. 8th St., 213.271.2716
Dover Street Market L.A. 606-608 Imperial St., 310.427.7610
Pocket Square Clothing 205 W. 7th St., 213.375.5111
Row DTLA (13 Bonaparte, Banks Journal, Bodega, Bridge & Burn) 777 Alameda St.
Visvim Exposition 304 S. Broadway, Suite 218, 213.265.7901
Wittmore 300 S. Santa Fe Ave., Suite X, 213.626.0780 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 39
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New in Town Hex
The tech accessories and bag brand makes its grand return to L.A. in a larger space, next to Ace Hotel. 939 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.278.0897
Joey DTLA
Boasting the largest street-level patio in DTLA and an interior willow tree, the design of this Canadian restaurant is as impressive as its globally inspired menu. 700 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.372.5335
Tacos 1986
streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish, hidden in the back of historic Cole’s French Dip.
SHOPPING DISTRICTS Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center is still evident in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central
Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the Figat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.
CHINATOWN Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at foodie-favorite spots like Howlin’ Ray’s and Baohaus or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple. Pedestrian-friendly Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to hip galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.
LITTLE TOKYO Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to seasonal
small plates at Baldoria. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s east is the Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; galleries including Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as The Factory Kitchen, Brera Ristorante and Bestia.
L.A. LIVE The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers, Sparks and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myr-
iad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits. A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Katsuya and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.
EXPOSITION PARK Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, temporary home of the L.A. Rams. The California African American Museum delves into black history, and the beauxarts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.
> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF DOWNTOWN, SEE PAGE 77.
IWAN BAAN
The Broad
After it went viral on social media, it was only a matter of time before this acclaimed Tijuana-style taco stand opened its own storefront. 609 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.988.7202
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805-WH
THE GARDEN BAR
LOCAL VIEWS, LOCAL BREWS, LOCAL WINE OUE SKYSPACE LA’S NEWEST ATTRACTION INCLUDES: Two open-air observation decks Casual dress code Paid parking available at Westlawn Parking Garage Admission to Skyspace required, reservations not needed Private event rentals available
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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN
The Valley THE VALLEY IS A SPRAWLING COLLECTION OF COMMUNITIES, EACH WITH ITS OWN ATTRACTIONS AND CHARMS.
A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfieldthemed “world.” Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park. Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and the latest films at the state-of-the-art Universal Cinema. Restaurants include Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville,
Dongpo Kitchen, chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut.
BURBANK Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. The city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio. Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday. Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw. More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and
visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the country’s largest Ikea, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with shops and trendy bistros such as Granville. Another mustvisit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Slone Vintage are favorites). Always-packed Porto’s Bakery
GREAT FIND
Blooming in Burbank >Feather your nest—and backyard—with home goods from Tansy, a new boutique along Burbank’s bustling Magnolia Boulevard. You’ll find unique house plants, handmade items from international artists and eclectic decor around every corner. The enchanting space also hosts whimsical events—think fairy-garden planting parties and living-wall design classes. 2120 W. Magnolia Blvd., Burbank, 800.580.0541, shoptansy.com
offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba. Do you like the outdoors? Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses. And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series. If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for uncongested Hollywood Burbank Airport. It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.
NORTH HOLLYWOOD North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DAVID SPRAGUE/UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD; DALE BERMAN (3)
UNIVERSAL CITY
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THIS PAGE: The NoHo Arts District OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Wizarding World of Harry Potter; Porto’s Bakery; the Federal Bar
INSIDER TIPS
Showtime Get in on the act at the Valley’s performingarts venues. dance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions. Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its familyoriented lifestyle.
FAR RIGHT: COURTESY THE SORAYA; OPPOSITE BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY TANSY
DEEP IN THE VALLEY
the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub; several Tiki bars; and the 1933 Group’s Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village. From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.
VENTURA BOULEVARD This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene. In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, newer favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene. Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abun-
Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques. The Village outdoor lifestyle destination expands the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room. Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant open-air destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons. Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster lovers gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.
> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP, SEE PAGE 78.
The Soraya at CSUN
The Colony Theatre 555 N. 3rd St., Burbank, 818.558.7000
Crown City Theatre 11031 Camarillo St., North Hollywood, 818.605.5685
El Portal Theatre 5269 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, 818.508.4200
Garry Marshall Theatre 4252 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.955.8101
Simi Valley Cultural Arts Center 3050 E. Los Angeles Ave., 805.583.7900
The Soraya at CSUN 18111 Nordhoff St., Northridge, 818.677.3000
Thousand Oaks Civic Arts Plaza 2100 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., 805.449.2787
Whitefire Theatre 13500 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.687.8559 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 43
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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN
Pasadena HOME TO THE TOURNAMENT OF ROSES, THE CROWN CITY’S SMALL-TOWN CHARM BLOOMS ALL YEAR LONG.
A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to Zara, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Vince and Cop. Copine draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-the-art technology, plush seats and a bar/café. Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the West. The galleries are filled
with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters is formidable. To the north, you’ll find Rose Bowl Stadium (home to the UCLA Bruins, concerts and a popular flea market) and, nearby, the interactive Kidspace Children’s Museum. East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.
PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art house cinema, antique shops and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House Comedy Club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld. Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court
Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum. East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment. Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.
GREAT FIND
Keep in Touch >School is back in session, and Highland Park is home to an adorable new store full of A-plus art supplies: Touch, an extension of nearby gift shop Crush. Its shelves are lined with everything from sidewalk chalk to artist-grade gouache, and kids, beginners, students and professionals alike can find what they’ll need to create artistic masterpieces. 5119 York Blvd., L.A., crush-la.com/pages/about-touch-art-supply
SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California. Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art. A library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen and Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,200 rose varieties. Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia, home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred-
ALL PHOTOS DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY TOUCH ART SUPPLY; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: © DESCANSO GARDENS
OLD PASADENA
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Huntington’s cacti-filled Desert Garden; the architecturally significant Pasadena City Hall; shopping in Old Town Pasadena
INSIDER TIPS
Garden Party These local gardens bloom year-round.
Descanso Gardens
Arlington Garden 275 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, 626.578.5434
Descanso Gardens 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200
The Huntington 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2100
Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222
Norton Simon Museum 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840
Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden 270 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, 626.399.1721
Tournament House & Wrigley Gardens 391 S. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.4100
Whispering Pine Tea House 1601 W. Mountain St., Glendale, 818.548.3782 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 45
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New in Town Ethel M Chocolates
Find small-batch, preservative-free treats at this chocolate shop and tasting room. 2159 Glendale Galleria, Glendale, 747.240.3987
Indochino
Set up an appointment at this made-tomeasure menswear company to create your own bespoke suit. The Americana at Brand, 712 Americana Way, Glendale, 747.240.5480
Porto’s Bakery & Cafe
horse-racing venues in the world. Arcadia is also home to the beautiful 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants. This means the opportunity for enjoying authentic Asian cuisine— everything from hole-in-the-wall bánh mì shops to grandiose Cantonese dim sum palaces—is virtually unrivaled in Southern California. Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith can explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the rugged San Gabriel Mountains present myriad hiking opportunities for nature lovers.
SOUTH PASADENA
EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE
The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House), which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915.
West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College— where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate. On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County. There, office workers pour out of highrises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Stylesavvy shoppers can browse in boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the
Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak. Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Blocks from the Alex is the Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft. North of Glendale is the relatively undiscovered community of Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A., with homespun shops and diners. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.
> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF PASADENA, SEE PAGE 78.
DALE BERMAN
South Pasadena’s Fair Oaks Pharmacy
This Cuban bakery has only five locations, and at any given time, you can expect long lines of people ordering boxes of pastries and its famous potato balls. 584 S. Sunset Ave., West Covina, 626.214.3490
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Elevate YOUR NIGHTLIFE.
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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN
South Bay THE SOUTH BAY’S BEACHES AND HARBORS BOAST OCEANVIEW DINING, MOM-AND-POP SHOPS AND FUN ATTRACTIONS.
Less than 5 miles south of LAX, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers exported it to Waikiki Beach in the 1920s. Laid-back Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You might spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. The city’s picturesque pier, with its newly modernized Roundhouse Aquarium, features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is diehard beach-volleyball country. It’s also a playground for watersports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as Fishing With Dynamite, Love & Salt, Little Sister and The Strand
House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering place, with shops like the Beehive. Between Manhattan Beach and LAX to the north is El Segundo, an industrial city with a quaint downtown and upscale shopping and dining centers including The Point.
HERMOSA BEACH Head south on Manhattan Avenue to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including its own scenic stretch of beach punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at the foot of the pier becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s Tavern and Tower 12. Close to
Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club Sunday nights. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and the Hook & Plow are standouts among the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue. Farther east, Becker carries surfboards and beachwear.
REDONDO BEACH The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront
GREAT FIND
Secondhand Stars >Stars Antique Market—located in a 7,000-square-foot barn-shaped building by the beach—is a must-visit destination for vintage treasure hunters. Inside, find over 70 individual dealers selling a wide spectrum of vintage items and collectibles, one-of-a-kind historical items and antiques that will suit every style, from shabby chic to midcentury. 526 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.318.2800, starsantiquemarket.com
featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor. Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offer fishing excursions and whalewatching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier attracts locals and visitors with quick-and-casual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; LISA CORSON; COURTESY AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY STARS ANTIQUE MARKET; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS
MANHATTAN BEACH
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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Manhattan Beach Pier and Roundhouse Aquarium; Hermosa Beach; a penguin at Long Beach’s Aquarium of the Pacific
INSIDER TIPS
¡Vamos a comer! For muy deliciosa Mexican fare, sit down at one of these local faves. Madre
Madre 1261 Cabrillo Ave., Suite 100, Torrance, 310.974.8005
Ortega 120 1814 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.792.4120
Palmilla Cocina y Tequila 39 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.977.7939
Pancho’s 3615 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.6670
Panxa Cocina 3937 E. Broadway, Long Beach, 562.433.7999
Sausal 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721
Sion’s 235 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.372.4504
Zacatecas Restaurant 13737 S. Inglewood Ave., Suite 9, Hawthorne, 310.679.5161 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 49
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New in Town Duff’s Cakemix
Create tasty works of art at Food Network star Duff Goldman’s cakeand cupcake-decorating studio at the Works. 730 S. Allied Way, El Segundo, 424.277.2811
Slay Steak + Fish House
This stylish restaurant features grass-fed beef, sustainable seafood and vegan dishes made from organic produce. 1141 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.504.0902
Tokyo Guild
feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.
PALOS VERDES PENINSULA Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a year-round attraction featuring 200,000 plants. Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular graywhale-watching site. Just past the adjacent Point Vicente Lighthouse is the Mediterranean-style Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-square-
foot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.
SAN PEDRO The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and brewery. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors. More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annu-
ally; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turned-museum Battleship USS Iowa. A few miles south is the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex, which includes a marina, the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach— one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.
LONG BEACH In the county’s southwestern corner, Long Beach is home to a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor. The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, the Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the
Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kitesurfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples. Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage-furniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art.
> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 52. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF THE SOUTH BAY, SEE PAGE 77.
STEVE NICHOLS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
The Queen Mary ocean liner
This new eatery is serving up Tokyo-style street food, ramen and sandwiches paired with beer, wine and cocktails. 4262 Atlantic Ave., Long Beach, 562.912.7722
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FIND YOUR
MARINA MOMENT Where living in the moment means paddleboarding to breakfast. Seizing the day can be a mid-morning sailing lesson, parasailing over the marina or cycling to Venice Beach. Embracing an evening is toasting the sunset and dancing under the star-kissed sky on a harbor cruise. It’s all here... what will your Marina adventure be? Check out visitmarinadelrey.com or call 424-526-7900 for information. Get connected with Marina del Rey
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THE GUIDE / DINING
A.O.C. > Mediterranean $$$ Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends—the small-plates format and the wine bar—from James Beard Award-winning Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 Map I12 BAO DIM SUM > Chinese $$ Enjoy delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 Map I12 CLEO > Mediterranean $$$ Executive chef Danny Elmaleh’s Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of skirt steak and lamb, and woodburned flatbreads. B, D (daily). The Orlando Hotel, 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.579.1600 Map I12
Right Angle
Acclaimed Bay Area chef Joshua Skenes and his Saison Hospitality have brought Angler—and the chef’s Michelin-starred prowess— to the recently renovated Beverly Center. The menu at the “sea-life focused” restaurant is centered around a giant wood-burning hearth, where Skenes applies his unique fire cooking methods to locally sourced produce, game and seafood (like the spot prawns above). You’ll see the catch of the day swimming in tanks— an eye-catching element of Angler’s sophisticated maritime design. Pair your meal with a cocktail or selection from the expansive wine list. The restaurant is the latest addition to the shopping center’s alreadyimpressive culinary lineup, which includes Cal Mare (p. 56) and Yardbird Southern Table & Bar (p. 57). 8500 Beverly Blvd., Suite 117, L.A., 424.332.4082, anglerrestaurants.com
(V) CROSSROADS KITCHEN > Mediterranean $$$ Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort-food classics. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 Map H12 THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN > Pan-Asian $$$ One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Beverly Hills’ Crustacean—offers cuisine that reflects her Vietnamese heritage while incorporating California sensibilities in a chic indoor-outdoor space. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 Map I12 JOAN’S ON THIRD > American $$ Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285 Map I12 THE LITTLE DOOR > French $$$ For a candlelit dinner in a romantic setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic French-Mediterranean dishes under the stars. D (nightly). 8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 Map I12
Guidelines Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.
Index Beverly Boulevard........ 52 Beverly Hills................. 52 Brentwood.................... 54 Century City.................. 54 Culver City.................... 54 Downtown..................... 54 Hollywood..................... 56 La Brea......................... 56 La Cienega Boulevard. 56
Malibu........................... 57 Marina del Rey............. 57 Pasadena...................... 57 Santa Monica................ 58 South Bay..................... 58 Valley............................. 58 Venice............................ 58 West Hollywood............ 58 Westside....................... 59
(V) = Vegan/Vegetarian
SON OF A GUN > Seafood $$$ Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for inspiration here. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 Map I12 TERRONI > Italian $$ Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza and pastas. Try the delicious capunti al ragù d’agnello. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 Map J13 TORELLI TRATTORIA > Italian $$ Featuring a charming patio and dining room, this classic Tuscan trattoria serves authentic, made-to-order Italian dishes such as polpette al forno con mozzarella, tortellini di formaggio al pesto and lasagna Bolognese e besciamella. Br, L, D (Tu-Su). 7469 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.433.7065 Map H13
BEVERLY HILLS
LUCQUES > Mediterranean $$$ Chef/owner Suzanne Goin (A.O.C.) delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes delicious starters such as grilled lamb merguez with haricots verts, banyuls, dried figs and treviso. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 Map I13
THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS/SOMNI > Spanish $$$$ Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical Spanish-style dining experience to SLS Beverly Hills. Somni is billed as a “multi-sensory culinary experience” with a 20-pluscourse tasting menu. Purchase tickets at exploretock. com. The Bazaar: D (nightly). Somni: D (Tu-Sa). 465 La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555, Somni 310.246.5543 Map H16
OSTERIA MOZZA > Italian $$$ Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton is a partner in Mozza’s group of contemporary Italian restaurants, which includes this sophisticated dining room. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 Map H13
THE BELVEDERE > Mediterranean $$$$ The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ restaurant has a lovely terrace and menu from executive chef David Codney. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 Map J11
PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO > Italian $$ The more relaxed sibling of Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates and rustic daily specials. Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.297.0101. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 Map H13
CRUSTACEAN > Pan-Asian $$$ A walk-on-water aquarium meanders throughout the length of this modern-Vietnamese Beverly Hills landmark, which recently reopened its doors following a $10 million redesign. Enjoy reimagined Asian-fusion dishes while still satisfying cravings with the An family’s legendary “Secret Kitchen” dishes. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 468 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 Map I11
PROVIDENCE > Seafood $$$$ Michael Cimarusti (who’s also behind West Hollywood’s Connie and Ted’s) transforms sustainable seafood into oft-changing dishes at this refined restaurant. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 Map I14
CULINA > Italian $$$ The Four Seasons’ acclaimed Italian restaurant boasts coastal influences and a sleek crudo bar. Adjacent is Vinoteca, an Italian-inspired wine- and espresso-bar concept. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 Map J12
> After being nominated nine successive times, Providence chef Michael Cimarusti finally received the James Beard Award for Best Chef: West this year.
BONJWING LEE
BEVERLY BOULEVARD / 3RD STREET / MELROSE AVENUE
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LOS ANGELES
B E V E R L Y
C E N T E R Shop the best in luxury, contemporary and fast-fashion favorites and dine out at one of our chef-driven restaurants or fast-casual eateries.
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DINING BRENTWOOD BALTAIRE > Steak $$$$ Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sun-or-stars dining on its terrace. L (M-F), D (nightly). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 Map J12 JON & VINNY’S > Italian $$ Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, which just opened a new Brentwood outpost, has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. B, L, D (daily). 11938 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.442.2733 Map J12
Corn caviar at Maude
CUT > Steak $$$$ A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and Wolfgang Puck, CUT is the place to savor genuine wagyu beef steaks or dry-aged Nebraska beef. D (M-Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 Map J11 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY > Steak $$$ The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads, chicken potpies and other old-school fare. L (M-Sa), D (nightly). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615 Map I11 JEAN-GEORGES BEVERLY HILLS > California $$$$ Michelin-rated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is an opulent indoor/outdoor fine-dining destination, perfect for enjoying fresh, local cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6666 Map J11 MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 Map J11
TAVERN > California $$$ James Beard Award-winning chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.806.6464 Map J9
CENTURY CITY CRAFT > American $$$ New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers a contemporary à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 Map K11 DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 424.382.1118 Map J10
CULVER CITY LUKSHON > Pan-Asian $$$ Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery. The crispy whole fish is not to be missed. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 Map K12
MATSUHISA > Japanese $$$$ Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s relatively modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 Map I12
NATALEE THAI > Thai $$ Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., L.A., 310.202.7003 Map L11
MAUDE > California $$$$ Aussie celebrity chef Curtis Stone helms this intimate, 24-seat restaurant. Four times a year, Stone and his team offer a new tasting menu and optional wine pairings inspired by a great wine region of the world. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 Map J11
VESPERTINE > Eclectic/Fusion $$$$ Chef Jordan Kahn’s pricey “gastronomical experiment” topped late L.A. Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold’s 2017 list of the city’s 101 best restaurants. Expect a spaceage meal of 18-plus courses. Reservations must be made in advance online. D (Tu-Sa). 3599 Hayden Ave., Culver City, 323.320.4023, vespertine.la Map L12
MR CHOW > Chinese $$$$ The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. L (M-F), D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 Map I11
DOWNTOWN
NATALEE THAI > Thai $$ Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 Map J12 SPAGO > California $$$ An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 Map I11
71ABOVE > American $$$$ In addition to skyline views, expect elevated modern American dishes at this restaurant on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus are offered in the main dining room and several private dining spaces. L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st Floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 Map H16 BAVEL > Mediterranean $$$ Bestia chef Ori Menashe and wife/pastry chef Genevieve Gergis bring Middle Eastern cuisine into the mainstream at this lively, trendsetting Arts District restaurant. The menu features a wide-ranging selection of mezze and larger plates such as herb-stuffed dorade with red chermoula. D (nightly). 500 Mateo St., downtown, 213.232.4966 Map J17
BESTIA > Italian $$$ Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic. D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 Map east of J17 BOTTEGA LOUIE > Italian $$ This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 Map I16 BRERA RISTORANTE > Italian $$$ From the team behind the Factory Kitchen, this stylish trattoria (formerly Officine Brera) serves a daily changing, Northern Italy-inspired menu. The rice dishes, spit-roasted meats and handmade pastas are superb. D (nightly). 1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006 Map J17 BROKEN SPANISH > Mexican/Latin $$$ This “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. Try the oxtail quesadilla and lambneck tamale. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 Map I15 DRAGO CENTRO > Italian $$$ Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 Map H16 THE FACTORY KITCHEN > Italian $$$ Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrial-chic setting in the Arts District. Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, Suite 101, downtown, 213.996.6000 Map J17 GUERRILLA TACOS > Mexican/Latin $$ Chef Wes Avila’s lauded taco truck recently put it in park to open a brick-and-mortar space in the Arts District, complete with a bar and patio. B (M-F), L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2000 E. 7th St., downtown, 213.375.3300 Map J17 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE AND BAR > French $$$ Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here. L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 Map H16 L.A. PRIME > Steak $$$$ Enjoy city views, wet-aged steaks and an award-winning wine list at the Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites’ 35th-floor restaurant. D (nightly). The Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.612.4743 Map I16 LE PETIT PARIS > French $$$ The L.A. iteration of David and Fanny Rolland’s original Le Petit Paris in Cannes is housed in the historic El Dorado building. By day, the brasserie is bright and tranquil, and at night, it transforms into an upscale lounge. L (W-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445 Map I17 LITTLE SISTER > Pan-Asian $$ Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s pan-Asian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and salt-and-pepper lobster. L, D (daily). 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146 Map I16 ORSA & WINSTON > Eclectic/Fusion $$$$ Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at this acclaimed restaurant. For dinner,
DYLAN + JENI
Hollywood Bowl
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DINING
WURSTKÜCHE > Quick Bites $$ Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, buffalo with Luxardo cherries and mint. Open late. L, D (daily). 800 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.687.4444 Map I17
Chef Hiroyuki Naruke’s Q Sushi
enjoy a daily changing five-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 Map I16 OTIUM > California $$$ French Laundry alum Timothy Hollingsworth helms this modern restaurant adjacent to the Broad museum, preparing rustic, market-driven cuisine such as hamachi with nori and avocado, and a signature black-cod dish. L (TuF), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 222 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.935.8500 Map H16 PATINA > French $$$$ The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classical-music offerings with fine dining at its fine in-house restaurant, reopening Sept. 12. Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Sa). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 Map H16 PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL > Quick Bites $ The purported birthplace of the French dip sandwich, this down-home cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 45-cent coffee. B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 Map G17 Q SUSHI > Japanese $$$$ The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef Hiroyuki Naruke in items like seared toro and a parade of simply prepared sushi. These strictly traditional interpretations are never flashy but always rewarding. L (Tu-F), D (TuSa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 Map I16 REDBIRD > American $$$ Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Updated Spanish Baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 Map H17
YANG CHOW > Chinese $$ Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere has made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since the Yun family opened the spot in 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811 Map G17
HOLLYWOOD / EASTSIDE ALIMENTO > Italian $$$ Zach Pollack is behind this tiny, hip space, where a clever menu includes tortellini in brodo, with dumplings filled with a hot broth. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A., 323.928.2888 Map east of W23 APL RESTAURANT > Steak $$$$ At classically trained chef and barbecue expert Adam Perry Lang’s steakhouse, starters include new versions of old-school favorites. The rib-eye, bone-in New York strip and tomahawk chop are all dry-aged on-site. D (nightly). 1680 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.416.1280 Map H14 THE BOURBON ROOM > American $$$ Step into the world of Rock of Ages at this new restaurant and bar. The immersive theatrical and dining experience features dinner and bar service before, during and after performances. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 6356 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, rockofageshollywood.com Map H14 CLEO > Mediterranean $$$ The Hollywood location of this bustling mezze restaurant recently reopened in the new h Club Los Angeles with a menu from chef Martin Heierling. D (nightly). 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 Map H14 GWEN > American $$$$ Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s restaurant features meat-centric tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front that offers sandwiches. L (M-F), D (nightly). 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 Map H14 THE MUSSO & FRANK GRILL > Steak $$$ Hollywood’s oldest restaurant (1919). Enjoy flannel cakes and lobster Thermidor with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L (TuSa); D (Tu-Su). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 Map H13
ROSSOBLU > Italian $$$ Chef Steve Samson and wife Dina are behind this gorgeous Italian restaurant in City Market South, a new complex in the up-and-coming Fashion District, where Samson serves Bolognese family favorites. D (nightly), Br (Su). 1124 San Julian St., downtown, 213.749.1099 Map J16
NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899 Map south of W23
TERRONI > Italian $$ Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza, from a Toronto-based chain. Great happy-hour specials. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234 Map I16
PALEY > California $$$ This glamorous restaurant pays homage to the golden age of Hollywood. Inside a midcentury-modern dining room, dine on classic dishes with a modern twist. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 6115 Sunset Blvd., Suite 100, L.A., 323.544.9430 Map H14
WP24 > Pan-Asian $$$$ From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the
PETIT TROIS > French $$$ Trois Mec’s neighboring, French-bar-style spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a
confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. A new outpost in the Valley opened last year. L, D (daily). 718 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.468.8916 Map H13 SALAZAR > Mexican/Latin $$ This trendy taco destination—a colorful desert oasis set in a reworked Frogtown auto-body shop—specializes in outdoor dining, grilled meats and fun drinks. Pair tasty tacos with aguas frescas and cocktails. L, D (TuSu); Br (Sa-Su). 2490 Fletcher Drive, L.A., salazarla. com Map southeast of W23 TROIS MEC > French $$$$ Ludo Lefebvre, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook are behind this hot restaurant in a 26-seat former pizzeria. Diners must make advance reservations via phone or the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, multicourse meal. D (Tu-Sa). 716 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.484.8588, troismec.com Map H13
LA BREA / MID-CITY ANIMAL > American $$$ This bare-bones eatery from Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal, (such as pig ear). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 Map I13 JON & VINNY’S > Italian $$ Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/ owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. Takeout and delivery are also available. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 Map B2 PINK’S HOT DOGS > Quick Bites $ There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot-dog stand, open since 1939, which serves around 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 Map I13 RÉPUBLIQUE > French $$ Fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics in a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio. Café: B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro: D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 Map I13
LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD / RESTAURANT ROW BARTON G. THE RESTAURANT > American $$$ The L.A. location of Barton G. Weiss’ Miami Beach restaurant offers fun, showstopping food presentations in a finedining setting, making each meal an experience. Favorites include the Laughing Bird Popcorn Shrimp and cottoncandy dessert Marie Antoinette’s Head. D (nightly). 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.388.1888 Map I12 CAL MARE > Seafood $$$ This sophisticated Cal-Italian seafood restaurant from chef Adam Sobel in collaboration with superchef/restaurateur Michael Mina is on the ground floor of the Beverly Center. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 131 La Cienega Blvd., Suite 115, L.A., 424.332.4595 Map I12 CATTLE & CLAW > American $$ Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ laid-back restaurant is a casual-cool spot where diners can enjoy two of the world’s favorite foods: lobsters and burgers (made with locally sourced, farm-fresh beef). Pair with cocktails like the lobster bloody mary, served in Mason jars. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.770.1654 Map I12 NOBU > Japanese $$$$ The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. D (nightly). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711 Map H12
COURTESY Q SUSHI
goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. The restaurant offers some of downtown’s best skyline views. Restaurant/ lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room: D (Tu-Sa). Nest: D (Tu-Sa). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 Map I15
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DINING
Ye Olde King’s Head
World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery THE STINKING ROSE > Steak $$ True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options and premium steaks. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 Map I12 YARDBIRD SOUTHERN TABLE & BAR > Southern $$$ This fried-chicken favorite at the Beverly Center is popular for its made-from-scratch regional Southern fare and cocktails like the Southern Peach, made with sweet tea. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 Beverly Blvd., Suite 112, L.A., 323.250.8034 Map I12
MALIBU DUKE’S MALIBU > Seafood $$ Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this restaurant features oceanfront views, a daily selection of fresh fish and tropical cocktails. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 Map west of K7
British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips. Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more. Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer
M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule
116 Santa Monica Blvd. Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com
MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB > Steak $$$$ At this on-the-waterfront eatery, starters like ahi tartare and caviar are followed by Maine lobster and expertly prepared steaks. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 Map west of K7 MR CHOW > Chinese $$$$ The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. D (nightly). Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 Map K7 NOBU MALIBU > Japanese $$$$ Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s coastal restaurant attracts celebrities, as well as serious foodies. Indulge in an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi. B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 Map east of K7
MARINA DEL REY CAFE DEL REY > Seafood $$$ Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. It recently unveiled a new menu and look. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 Map N9
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PASADENA / GLENDALE ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 Map Q20 DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). The Americana at Brand, 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; Westfield Santa Anita, 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588; 1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.574.7068 Map U23, R23 (2) SUSHI ROKU > Japanese $$$ Find nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 Map Q19
cleothirdstreet.com @cleorestaurant cleothirdstreet@sbe.com 323 579 1600 8 3 84 We s t 3 r d S t r e e t L o s A n g e l e s , C A 9 0 04 8
YANG CHOW > Chinese $$ Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine has made this local chain a mainstay since 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 Map Q22
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DINING
SUSHI ROKU > Japanese $$$ Find nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 Map L8 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD > British/Irish $$ Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, like the acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 Map L8
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SANTA MONICA 1 PICO > California $$$ This upscale oceanfront dining venue recently relaunched with a new chef and menu focusing on California coastal cuisine. Pair with a handcrafted cocktail or selection from the extensive wine list. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.1717 Map M8 BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE > Seafood $$$ Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this restaurant near the Santa Monica Pier specializes in dishes such as oysters on the half shell and lobster rolls. L, D (daily). 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 Map L8 BOA STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$ Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466 Map M8 CASSIA > Eclectic/Fusion $$$ This Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie, set inside a 1930s art deco building, finds chef Bryant Ng serving dishes like Vietnamese pot-au-feu and grilled pork-belly vermicelli. Esters Wine Shop & Bar is adjacent. D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 Map L8 DIALOGUE > California $$$$ James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran, formerly of Chicago’s celebrated Alinea, is behind this 18-seat restaurant. One market-driven 18- to 20-course tasting menu is offered; tickets must be prepurchased online. D (Tu-Su). Gallery Food Hall, 1315 3rd St. Promenade, Second Floor, Santa Monica, dialoguerestaurant.com Map L8 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. > Seafood $$ Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood. Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked over a mesquite charcoal grill. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 Map M9 MICHAEL’S > California $$$ Michael McCarty’s influential restaurant, opened in 1979, is refreshed and back in the spotlight. D (M-Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 Map L8 MILO & OLIVE > Pizza $$ The team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery. Expect to make friends with your neighbors; seating is at communal tables and the bar only. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 Map K9 RUSTIC CANYON > California $$$ Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of
SOUTH BAY / LONG BEACH DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). Del Amo Fashion Center, 21540 Hawthorne Blvd., Suite 519, Torrance, 310.214.1175 Map D2 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE > Seafood $$$ Chef David LeFevre (the Arthur J, M.B. Post) loads his menu with East Coast inspirations here. Among the old-school small plates in this charming restaurant are Maryland blue-crab cakes. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 Map L13 ISE-SHIMA > Japanese $$ Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers. B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 Map M14 LITTLE SISTER > Pan-Asian $$ Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s pan-Asian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and salt-and-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). R.B.: L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237 Map L13, M13 LOVE & SALT > California $$$ Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare (e.g., duck-egg pizza and whole roasted branzino) in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 Map L13 M.B. POST > American $$$ Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, freshbaked breads, delectable vegetables, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 Map L13 SAUSAL > Mexican/Latin $$ This stylish El Segundo restaurant serves nuevo-rancho cuisine by chef Anne Conness (Jaffa), with an emphasis on wood fire, smoke and slow-roasting methods; Mexican and Spanish flavors; and locally sourced produce. L, D (daily). 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721 Map L13 THE STRAND HOUSE > California $$$ This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a stylish bar. Executive chef Austin Cobb’s menu highlights coastal California cuisine. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 Map L13 YANG CHOW 2.0 > Chinese $$ This popular local Mandarin and Szechuan chain just opened a more casual Long Beach outpost. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp. L, D (Tu-Su). 2930 Clark Ave., Long Beach, 562.982.4288 Map M17
VALLEY ASANEBO > Japanese $$$$ Hidden in a strip mall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro and uni tempura in shiso leaf. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 Map A1 CASTAWAY > American $$$ Burbank’s fine-dining restaurant boasts expansive views of the Valley, plus a new design and steak-forward menu from Cutthroat Kitchen winner Perry Pollaci. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1250 E. Harvard Road, Burbank, 818.848.6691 Map north of W21 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY > Steak $$$ The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other oldschool fare. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 Map west of A1 JOAN’S ON THIRD > American $$ This celebrity-frequented café offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 Map T18 PETIT TROIS > French $$$ Trois Mec’s French-bar-style spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. B, L, D (daily). 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600 Map G10
VENICE FELIX TRATTORIA > Italian $$$ Chef Evan Funke’s trattoria boasts an open kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven, a Tuscan grill and a glassenclosed pasta laboratorio where Funke’s masterpieces—tonnarelli, orecchiette—take shape before diners’ eyes. D (nightly). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.387.8622 Map M9 GJELINA > Mediterranean $$$ Under the direction of talented young chef Travis Lett (also behind Gjusta and MTN), Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s liveliest patio. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 Map N9 MTN > Japanese $$$ Chef Travis Lett is behind this California izakaya, where foodies perch on bar stools to slurp up bowls of housemade ramen. L, D (daily). 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.465.3313 Map N9 NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (W-F), D (W-M). 2533 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310.301.0333 Map M9 (V) PLANT FOOD + WINE > California $$$ This restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining. Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 Map N9
WEST HOLLYWOOD BOA STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ Way hip, way fine steakhouse on the Sunset Strip. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 Map H12
NICOLE FRANZEN
market-driven, Mediterranean-inspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners. Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 Map L8
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DINING DAN TANA’S > Italian $$$ New York-style restaurant, an L.A. classic for nearly 50 years. Red-sauced pastas, huge steaks. Reservations required. D (nightly). 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9444 Map I11 FIG & OLIVE > Mediterranean $$$ Inspired by Provence, France, and Mediterranean culinary heritage, this restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil. Don’t miss the paella noir or the Moroccan free-range chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8490 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 310.360.9100 Map I12 (V) GRACIAS MADRE > Mexican/Latin $$ Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Café Gratitude. Inventive dishes like coconut ceviche and flautas de camote filled with sweet potatoes and cashew nacho cheese please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 Map I12 KATANA > Japanese $$$ Sunset Strip restaurant with a sushi bar and robatastyle cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood. Stylish rooms, patio. Upscale-casual dress code. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 Map H12 NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724 Map I12 ROKU > Japanese $$$ This Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, inventive omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 Map H12 ROSALINÉ > Mexican/Latin $$$ Acclaimed chef Ricardo Zarate’s sunny restaurant— named after his mother—introduces the “next phase of Peruvian dining” (e.g., kampachi ceviche, chicharrón de paiche). D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.297.9500 Map I12 TESSE > French $$$ Raphael Francois is in the kitchen at Bill Chait’s new restaurant, serving classic French delights updated for 21st-century L.A. Mixologists Julian Cox and Nick Meyer are behind the cocktail menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 W. Sunset Blvd., Suite B, West Hollywood, 310.360.3866 Map H12
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WESTSIDE THE APPLE PAN > Quick Bites $$ Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger aficionados wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu-Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 Map K10 STK > Steak $$$ The One Group’s renowned steakhouse at the W hotel in Westwood offers starters like tuna tartare with Hass avocado, soy-honey emulsion and taro chips, followed by signature savory steaks and seafood platters for the table. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 Map J10
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LADINING THE STINKING ROSE— A GARLIC RESTAURANT The Stinking Rose has been a mainstay on the dining scene since 1996. The restaurant’s latest addition is a supplemental Garlic Stake menu, which includes such premium beef specialties as the Little Devil petite filet mignon, Dracula’s Porterhouse (a carnivore’s dream of the perfectly prepared cut, with New York and filet mignon cooked separately), a bone-in filet mignon and the newest addition, a ribeye steak. The Gar Bar is the perfect setting to enjoy an evening of standards and pop songs performed by piano man Gary Sherer, who tickles the ivories Thursday through Saturday nights. Settle into a cozy booth or find a seat at the bar and enjoy an evening of fine food and pure entertainment. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills 310.652.7673 • thestinkingrose.com
GRATITUDE KITCHEN AND BAR Love Serve Remember—parent company of Café Gratitude (which has locations in Larchmont Village, downtown L.A.’s Arts District and Venice) and Gracias Madre in West Hollywood— brings an upscale iteration of its plant-based concepts to Beverly Hills with Gratitude Kitchen and Bar. Just like its flagship location in Newport Beach, Gratitude offers a seasonally rotating menu crafted by executive chef Seizan Dreux Ellis that’s designed to support health and sustainability for the community and the planet. And just like the cuisine, the curated cocktail program uses organic and sustainably sourced ingredients. It’s all served in a light-filled, 3675-square-foot space that spills onto an inviting, shaded patio. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su).
419 Canon Drive, Beverly Hills 424.389.1850 • gratitudekitchenandbar.com
YARDBIRD SOUTHERN TABLE & BAR James Beard Award-nominated restaurant, Yardbird is a bastion of regional Southern fare. The look at the Beverly Center spot is clean-lined and contemporary—with fun exceptions: “Run, chicken, run,” for instance, is scrawled on a cleaver over the open kitchen. Start with biscuits—actually, start with blackberry bourbon lemonade—perhaps chicken biscuits with pepper jelly or smoked-brisket biscuits with house-made barbecue sauce; mention Where magazine and receive complimentary Famous Mama’s Biscuits. Among popular mains are Lewellyn’s Fine Fried Chicken with honey hot sauce, lobster mac ‘n’ cheese and sweettea-braised short ribs. Finish with Pie in a Jar served in a Mason jar. Happy hour M-F (3-7 pm). L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles 323.250.8034 • runchickenrun.com
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
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SPECIAL PROMOTION
MENU HIGHLIGHTS Cattle 10-ounce burger Summer kebab Lobster beef burger
CATTLE & CLAW Cattle & Claw, the sizzling SoCal Eatery located at the Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, presents the perfect balance between surf and turf dishes! Guests can enjoy a colorful selection of shareable appetizers and family-inspired entrées among the beautiful ambiance of the restaurant’s blooming garden patio. Guests seeking the ultimate decadence will be delighted by the Cattle & Claw’s two crowning achievements: the Lobster Burger, made with a full lobster tail and a grilled beef patty, and the Lobster Paella, a SoCal-take on the traditional Spanish dish topped with a whole Lobster. Come discover all the decadent specials and make the most of the gorgeous outdoor garden patio, ideal for a lunch with friends or a romantic dinner. Drop by Cattle & Claw’s famous Boozy Brunch every Sunday from 12 p.m. to 5 p.m to enjoy special brunch menu items like the lobster frittata, lobster Benedict, lobster waffles, egg burgers and more, and wash it all down with two hours of bottomless Mimosas or Lobster Bloody Marys while grooving to a live DJ set. Reservations recommended. L, D (daily).
Claw Lobster pizza Lobster ravioli Lobster paella Combos Two lobster rolls, two 10-ounce burgers, whole lobster, fries, salad Drinks Lobster bloody mary Mason-jar cocktails Margarita
Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A.
310.770.1654 cattleandclaw.com
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THE GUIDE / ENTERTAINMENT SPECIAL EVENTS
THE BAI HOLIDAY ICE RINK PERSHING SQUARE Opening Nov. 14 Skate among the skyscrapers at this ice-skating rink, which materializes every holiday season at Pershing Square. It’s kicking off its 22nd season with a festive series of free community and special events. See website for full schedule of programming, hours, skate-session schedule and prices. 532 S. Olive St., downtown, holidayicerinkdowntownla.com Map I16
Silver Screenings
Each November, filmmakers, celebrities and movie lovers all pour into Hollywood theaters for the American Film Institute’s annual AFI Fest, taking place from Nov. 14-21. The lineup comprises screenings of highly anticipated new films and awards-season contenders, as well as panels and conversations, all at iconic Los Angeles venues like the TCL Chinese Theatre and the Hollywood Roosevelt hotel. This year, the festival is kicking things off with the world premiere of Queen & Slim (pictured above). The directorial debut of two-time Grammy winner and AFI alumna Melina Matsoukas, the film is a consciousnessraising love story written by Emmy winner Lena Waithe. Closing the fest is The Banker, starring Samuel L. Jackson and Anthony Mackie, which is based on true events and also tackles institutionalized racism in America. See listing at right.
AFI FEST Nov. 14-21 Presented by Audi, the American Film Institute’s annual film festival offers world-premiere screenings and events in the heart of Hollywood. Queen & Slim, written by Emmy winner Lena Waithe, opens this year’s fest. See website for schedule. Individual tickets $12-$20; passes $250-$500. TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd.; TCL Chinese 6 Theatres, Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Third Floor; The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 866.234.3378, fest.afi.com Map H13 L.A. COMEDY FESTIVAL Nov. 14-24 Featuring funny films and comedy acts, this showcase attracts up-and-comers and established comics alike. Check website for schedule and ticket information. Let Live Theater, 916 N. Formosa Ave., L.A., lafilmfestivals.com/ la-comedy-fest Map I13 BURBANK WINTER WINE WALK Nov. 16 Burbank kicks off the holiday season with a free Holiday Street Fair featuring vendors, live entertainment, holiday lighting and snowfall from 6:45-8 pm. The Winter Wine Walk offers samples from a roster of world-class wineries and breweries. Holiday Street Fair noon-8 pm; all ages, free. Winter Wine Walk 4-7 pm; 21+, tickets $50, Santa’s VIP Holiday Lounge $99. 301 N. San Fernando Blvd., Burbank, burbankwinterwinewalk.com Map north of T21
Index Special Events............. 62
Museums..................... 66
Theater........................ 62
Shopping....................... 68
Music + Dance.............. 62
Spas.............................. 70
Sports.......................... 64
Nightlife....................... 72
Attractions................... 64
Beaches....................... 73
Studio Tours................ 66
Explore......................... 73
Studio Tapings............ 66
dance-floor diva and features over 20 of the singer’s hits, including “Love to Love You Baby” and “Hot Stuff.” Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 THE GREAT LEAP Opening Nov. 6 Tony winner and actor BD Wong directs this new drama about the conflict that arises when an American basketball team travels to Beijing for an exhibition game. Pasadena Playhouse, 39 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.356.7529 Map Q20 KEY LARGO Opening Nov. 6 Academy Award nominee Andy Garcia stars in the world premiere of this adaptation of Maxwell Anderson’s Broadway hit and the subsequent Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall-starring noir film. Gil Cates Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10 AUGUST WILSON’S JITNEY Opening Nov. 22 The final play in two-time Pulitzer Prize winner August Wilson’s masterful The American Century Cycle to be seen on Broadway, Jitney follows a group of Pittsburgh men trying to make a living by driving unlicensed cabs, or jitneys. This acclaimed production won the 2017 Tony for best revival of a play. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16
RENEGADE CRAFT FAIR Nov. 23-24 This celebration of the DIY spirit features over 300 emerging and established makers selling their giftable wares, plus food trucks, cocktails, workshops, vinyl DJ sets and more. 11 am-5 pm. Free. Los Angeles State Historic Park, 1245 N. Spring St., downtown, renegadecraft.com Map G17
THE NEW ONE Through Nov. 24 Comedian Mike Birbiglia (Sleepwalk With Me) takes the stage at the Ahmanson to tell a new story in a new way—and Lin-Manuel Miranda and John Mulaney are already raving about it. Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16
TURKEY TROT LOS ANGELES Nov. 28 Spend Thanksgiving morning in downtown L.A., taking in a scenic 5K or 10K route through the area’s historic streets. The race starts and finishes at City Hall and takes runners past Grand Park and Walt Disney Concert Hall. There is also a Widdle Wobble 1K for kids. Proceeds benefit charity the Midnight Mission. 5K 8 am; 10K 9 am; Widdle Wobble 10:15 am. $24-$67. 200 N. Spring St., downtown, 310.821.7898, turkeytrot.la Map H17
THE THANKSGIVING PLAY All month In Larissa FastHorse’s biting satire, three “woke” white thespians struggle with the task of helming an elementary school pageant about the first Thanksgiving. Audrey Skirball Kenis Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10
THEATER JESUS CHRIST SUPERSTAR Through Nov. 3 Andrew Lloyd Webber and Tim Rice’s iconic musical about the final weeks in the life of Jesus Christ is reborn in this 50th anniversary, Olivier Award-winning production. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 SUMMER: THE DONNA SUMMER MUSICAL Nov. 5-24 This biographical jukebox musical shows how Donna Summer broke barriers on her way to becoming a
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Guidelines
Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.
MUSIC + DANCE AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY BALLET Through Nov. 2 Inferno & Burlesque. Opening Nov. 29 The Nutcracker Suite. The Fashion Theater at California Market Center, 110 E. 9th St., downtown, 213.304.3408 Map I16 CENTER FOR THE ART OF PERFORMANCE AT UCLA Nov. 2 Aaron Neville Duo. Nov. 3 Andrew Sean Greer in Conversation With Sloane Crosley. Nov. 9 Michael Keegan-Dolan/Teac Damsa: Loch na hEala (Swan Lake). Nov. 10 Joshua Redman Quartet and the Bad Plus. Nov. 14-17 Andrew Dawson: Space Panorama & Spirit of the Ring (Royce Hall Rehearsal Room). Nov. 16
> The legendary Magic Castle is said to be haunted by the ghost of Harry Houdini—and the club holds regular Houdini séances to try and reach him.
UNIVERSAL PICTURES
ICE PRESENTED BY THE PLAZA AT SANTA MONICA Opening Nov. 1 This 8,000-square-foot outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica brings holiday spirit to the beach every winter. M-Th 2-10 pm; F 2 pm-midnight; Sa 10 am-midnight; Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission, including skate rental, $15. 1324 Fifth St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1199, downtownsm.com Map L8
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ENTERTAINMENT SPORTS DIGNITY HEALTH SPORTS PARK Nov. 2 Boxing: Miguel Berchelt vs. Jason Sosa. Nov. 3 NFL: Los Angeles Chargers vs. Green Bay Packers. 18400 Avalon Blvd., Carson, 310.630.2000 Map M15 LOS ANGELES MEMORIAL COLISEUM Nov. 17 Los Angeles Rams vs. Chicago Bears. Nov. 25 Rams vs. Baltimore Ravens. 3911 S. Figueroa St., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.747.7111 Map K15
Sergio Mendes & Bebel Gilberto: The 60th Anniversary of Bossa Nova. Royce Hall, 340 Royce Drive, L.A., 310.825.2101 Map J10 DOROTHY CHANDLER PAVILION Nov. 8 Very Special Arts Festival. Opening Nov. 16 The Magic Flute, L.A. Opera, composed by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, conducted by James Conlon/Grant Gershon. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 THE FORUM Nov. 2 Ramón Ayala & Roberto Tapia. Nov. 9 Gloria Trevi: Diosa De La Noche Tour. Nov. 16 Uforia K-Love Live. Nov. 17 Bad Bunny: X 100PRE Tour. Nov. 19 The Black Keys: Let’s Rock Tour. Nov. 20-21 Post Malone: Runaway Tour. Nov. 22-24 Maná: Rayando El Sol Tour 2019. Nov. 26 The Chainsmokers: World War Joy Tour. Nov. 29-30 Slayer: The Final Campaign. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12 HOLLYWOOD BOWL Nov. 2 Sara Bareilles, with special guest Emily King. Nov. 8-9 Disney Pixar Coco—A Live-toFilm Concert Experience, with live orchestra and singers including Benjamin Bratt and Eva Longoria. Check website for lease-event house rules. 2301 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.850.2000, hollywoodbowl.com Map G13 REDCAT Nov. 10-11 Studio: Fall 2019. Nov. 6 Peter Vermeersch and Flat Earth Society: 100-year anniversary of The Oyster Princess. Nov. 16 Hunter Hunt-Hendrix, with Liturgy and CalArts’ Sonic Boom dir. Ulrich Krieger: Origin of the Alimonies. Nov. 22-23 Dorian Wood: XAVELA LUX AETERNA. Nov. 4 Memories of the Unknowable: Films by Sylvia Schedelbauer. Nov. 18 Lei Lei: Breathless Animals and a selection of shorts. Nov. 25 Playful Perversions: Short Films by Gabriel Abrantes. 631 W. 2nd St., downtown, 213.237.2800 Map H16 THE THEATRE AT ACE HOTEL Nov. 1 Natasha Bedingfield. Nov. 2 KPCC In Person presents FilmWeek Screenings: Blade Runner (The Final Cut). Nov. 6 Jay Shetty. Nov. 12 Jenny Slate. Nov. 17 Wow in the World Pop Up Party. Nov. 22 Bianca Del Rio. Nov. 23 CAP UCLA presents Avery*Sunshine. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Nov. 1-3 Dudamel Conducts Bruckner, with Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel. Nov. 3 Jane Parker-Smith. Nov. 5 John Adams & Jay Campbell, with L.A. Phil New Music Group (Green Umbrella series). Nov. 6 Ray Chen, with pianist Julio Elizalde. Nov. 7-8 Dudamel & Yuja Wang, with L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel. Nov. 14-15 Sylvan Esso presents WITH, with Hand Habits. Nov. 16 An Evening With Melissa Etheridge. Nov. 23 The Cinematic Orchestra, with special guest Patrick Watson. Nov. 30 Dudamel Conducts Rachmaninoff & Stravinsky, with L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, pianist Seong-Jin Cho. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16
STAPLES CENTER Nov. 2 Los Angeles Kings vs. Chicago Blackhawks. Nov. 3 Los Angeles Clippers vs. Utah Jazz. Nov. 6 Clippers vs. Milwaukee Bucks. Nov. 7 Clippers vs. Portland Trail Blazers. Nov. 8 Los Angeles Lakers vs. Miami Heat. Nov. 9 KSI vs. Logan Paul II. Nov. 10 Lakers vs. Toronto Raptors. Nov. 11 Clippers vs. Toronto Raptors. Nov. 12 Kings vs. Minnesota Wild. Nov. 13 Lakers vs. Golden State Warriors. Nov. 14 Kings vs. Detroit Red Wings. Nov. 15 Lakers vs. Sacramento Kings. Nov. 16 Kings vs. Vegas Golden Knights; Clippers vs. Atlanta Hawks. Nov. 17 Lakers vs. Atlanta Hawks. Nov. 18 Clippers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. Nov. 19 Lakers vs. Oklahoma City Thunder. Nov. 20 Clippers vs. Boston Celtics. Nov. 21 Kings vs. Edmonton Oilers. Nov. 22 Clippers vs. Houston Rockets. Nov. 23 Kings vs. Arizona Coyotes. Nov. 24 Clippers vs. New Orleans Pelicans. Nov. 25 Kings vs. San Jose Sharks. Nov. 27 Kings vs. New York Islanders. Nov. 29 Lakers vs. Washington Wizards. Nov. 30 Kings vs. Winnipeg Jets. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15
ATTRACTIONS AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea lions and 11,000 other animals. Daily 9 am-6 pm. $24.95-$34.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 BARNSDALL ART PARK Features Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House, the L.A. Municipal Art Gallery, Barnsdall Art Center, Junior Art Center and Barnsdall Gallery Theatre. Park: daily 6 am-10 pm; Municipal Art Gallery: Th-Su noon-5 pm; Hollyhock House tours: Th-Su 11 am-4 pm. Hollyhock House tours $3-$7. 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.913.4031 Map W22 BATTLESHIP USS IOWA Former battleship is permanently docked as a floating museum. Ongoing exhibit follows the ship’s history through World War II, Korean War and Cold War. Daily 10 am-5 pm; last ticket sold at 4 pm. $11.95-$19.95, under 5 free. Pacific Battleship Center, USS Iowa BB-61, 250 S. Harbor Blvd., San Pedro, 877.446.9261 Map O15 CATHEDRAL OF OUR LADY OF THE ANGELS Stunning contemporary cathedral opposite Music Center. M-F 6:30 am-6 pm; Sa 9 am-6 pm; Su 7 am6 pm. 555 W. Temple St., downtown, 213.680.5200 Map H17 CENTRAL LIBRARY Downtown beaux arts-style landmark is the nation’s third-largest public library in terms of book and periodical holdings. It also holds many archival collections. M-Th 10 am-8 pm; F-Sa 9:30 am-5:30 pm; Su 1-5 pm. Free. 630 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.228.7000 Map I16 CHINATOWN Ornate architecture, dim sum, both traditional and trendy eateries (Howlin’ Ray’s, Baohaus) and shops with Eastern wares surrounding a central plaza. Art and antiques on Chung King Road. Between Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and Bernard Street, Yale and Spring streets, downtown Map G17 DESCANSO GARDENS Collections include coast live oaks, roses, the Oak Woodland, the Ancient Forest, the Japanese Garden and an award-winning camellia garden. M, F-Su 9 am-5 pm; Tu-Th 9 am-8 pm.
$4-$9, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19 DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Pirates of the Caribbean and new Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge. Disney California Adventure is adjacent. Call for hours. $98-$149, under 3 free. 1313 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6 DOLBY THEATRE Tour the home of the Academy Awards, formerly named the Kodak Theatre. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 10 am-4 pm. $18-$23, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13 EGYPTIAN THEATRE Restored 1922 Hollywood landmark screens classics, cult favorites, indie films. Excellent Forever Hollywood screenings are exclusive to the theater. Call for schedule and pricing. 6712 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.3456 Map H13 EL CAPITAN THEATRE 1926 Spanish-style movie palace screens Disney films new and old. Musical preludes on Wurlitzer pipe organ before shows. Tours available. Call for schedule and pricing. 6838 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7674 Map H13 EL PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES Birthplace of Los Angeles; the site of this historical monument dates to 1781. Historic buildings, 11 of which are open to the public, include 1818 Avila Adobe, L.A.’s oldest. 125 Paseo de la Plaza, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17 GAMBLE HOUSE Landmark Arts and Crafts-style home. Advance tickets recommended for guided tours. See website for details. Th-Su noon-3 pm. $12.50-$15, under 12 free. 4 Westmoreland Place, Pasadena, 626.793.3334, gamblehouse.org Map Q19 GRAND PARK Urban park positioned between the Music Center and City Hall offers draws such as a farmers market and community entertainment. Daily 5:30 am10 pm. Free. Entrances at 200 N. Grand Ave., 221 N. Hill St., 221 N. Broadway and 227 N. Spring St., downtown, 213.972.8080 Map H17 GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction with spectacular views of L.A. and the Hollywood sign. Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 JAPAN HOUSE LOS ANGELES This project from the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs features an exhibition gallery and a Monozukuri Shop with a curated selection of Japanese products, plus a café, a fine-dining restaurant, a library, an event venue and views of L.A. Su 10 am-7 pm; M-Sa 10 am-8 pm. Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Levels 2 and 5, L.A., 800.516.0565, japanhouse.jp/losangeles Map H13 L.A. LIVE Entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Microsoft Theater and the Novo by Microsoft, restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 LOS ANGELES COUNTY ARBORETUM & BOTANIC GARDEN Peafowl roam the grounds and roost overhead at this 127-acre garden. Make your own idyllic route or take a docent-led tour. Daily 9 am-5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm). $4-$9, under 5 free. Free third Tuesday of the month. 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222 Map Q22 LOS ANGELES ZOO & BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them endangered, living among immersive habitats and lush gardens. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $16-$21, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23
JOAN MARCUS
Mike Birbiglia in The New One, at the Ahmanson Theatre through Nov. 24 (p. 62)
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UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. Attractions include the new Jurassic World—The Ride; multisensory DreamWorks Theatre Featuring Kung Fu Panda; the Wizarding World of Harry Potter; and the Simpsons Ride. Studio Tour includes Peter Jackson’s King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. Call or check website for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377, universalstudioshollywood.com Map U20
The Bai Holiday Ice Rink Pershing Square, opening Nov. 14 (p. 62)
MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD Get closer to the stars at this world-famous, interactive attraction. Find over 125 figures including celebrities and pop icons, plus 4-D and VR adventures. Daily 10 am-10 pm. $16.99–$30.95, under 3 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET Local landmark established in 1934 boasts 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 OUE SKYSPACE LA California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16 POINT VICENTE INTERPRETIVE CENTER Small park adjacent to the Point Vicente Lighthouse offers a whalewatching deck and an interpretive center featuring exhibits about local history and ecology. 31501 Palos Verdes Drive, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.377.5370 Map O13 PORSCHE EXPERIENCE CENTER At the luxury vehicle brand’s 53-acre experience center, drivers 21 and over can pilot Porsche’s latest models for 90 minutes on a 4-mile driver-development track, with a pro driving coach riding shotgun. 19800 S. Main St., Carson, 888.204.7474 Map M15 QUEEN MARY Historic ocean liner permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor. Tours, shops, hotel, art deco lounge, a 4-D theater and restaurants. Check queenmary.com for hours and prices. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16 RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $15-$25, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1 SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $89.99, under 3 free. Parking $17-$30. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 619.222.4732 TCL CHINESE THEATRE Historic, meticulously restored Hollywood movie palace (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre) with Imax screen and walkway of stars’ handprints and footprints in the forecourt. Visit tclchinesetheatres.com or call for movie schedule. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.3331 Map H13 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes eateries such as Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen, LudoBird and
STUDIO TOURS PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Group tours of Hollywood’s longest-operating major studio. Reservations recommended. See website for schedule. Studio Tour $58, under 10 not admitted; VIP Tour $178, under 10 not admitted; After Dark Tour $78, under 16 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777, paramountstudiotour.com Map I14 SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion-picture studio includes stages where TV shows and movies including The Wizard of Oz and Spider-Man were filmed. Reservations, photo ID required. M-W, F 9:30 am-2:30 pm; Th 9:30 am-6 pm. $50, under 12 not admitted. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, an expert tour guide, a gourmet lunch, visits to the Will & Grace set and other perks. For hours and prices, call or check universalstudioshollywood.com. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20 WARNER BROS. STUDIO TOUR HOLLYWOOD Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, prop warehouse, the real Friends Central Perk set, original Batmobiles and observation of filming (when possible). Sets from The Big Bang Theory were recently added to the Stage 48: Script to Screen interactive soundstage; visitors can sit in Sheldon’s “spot” on the couch. Deluxe tour available. Reservations recommended; photo ID required. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. $55-$68, under 8 not admitted. Parking $12. 3400 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 877.492.8687 Map U20
STUDIO TAPINGS 1IOTA Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including Jimmy Kimmel Live!, The Late Late Show With James Corden and The Voice, as well as special events. Minimum age 16-18, varies by show. 323.417.6550, 1iota.com AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC, Netflix and the CW. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including America’s Got Talent, Dancing With the Stars and The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12-18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, on-camera-audiences.com
MUSEUMS THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Cultural venue dedicated to digital and print photography. W, F-Su 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa-Su. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000 Map J11 AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of
Native American materials. Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $6-$14, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains more than 2,000 works of contemporary art. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free. Online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16 CALIFORNIA AFRICAN AMERICAN MUSEUM Exhibits showcasing the history, culture and art of African-Americans, emphasis on California and the western United States. Tu-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $12, $15 after 5 pm. Cash only. 600 State Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 213.744.7432 Map M8 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Permanent gallery, free; admission for Imax varies. Parking $12, $15 after 5 pm. Cash only. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 CRAFT CONTEMPORARY International folk and contemporary craft art. Tu-F 11 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-6 pm. $7-$9; pay what you can Su, under 10 free. 5814 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.937.4230 Map J13 DISCOVERY CUBE LOS ANGELES This kids’ science center offers high-tech exhibits aimed at teaching science, math, healthy living and environmental stewardship through hands-on activities. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $14.95-$19.95, under 3 free. 11800 Foothill Blvd., L.A., 818.686.2823, discoverycube.org/la Map north of A2 GETTY CENTER Travertine-clad hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9 GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities. W-M 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Awards history. Su-M, W-Th 10:30 am-6:30 pm; F-Sa 10 am-8 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HAMMER MUSEUM UCLA-affiliated museum presents influential traveling shows and installations alongside its permanent collection. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. Free. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.443.7000 Map J10 HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13 HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART MUSEUM, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens; several dining concepts; a beautiful gallery; and an education and visitor center. W-M 10 am-5 pm. $13-$29, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 ICA LA Newer museum houses thought-provoking exhibitions by both local and international artists, aiming to make contemporary art relevant and accessible to all. W-F 11 am-7 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-6 pm. Free. 1717 E. 7th St., downtown, 310.284.8100 Map J17 JAPANESE AMERICAN NATIONAL MUSEUM Promotes understanding of ethnic diversity with a focus on
RED APPLE PHOTOGRAPHY
Voodoo Doughnut; clothing boutiques and novelty stores; a state-of-the-art Universal Cinema and Imax theater; and simulated skydiving wind tunnel iFly Hollywood. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20
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Jeanne (Spring) (detail), 1881, Édouard Manet. Oil on canvas. The J. Paul Getty Museum. Text and design © 2019 J. Paul Getty Trust
Manet
and Modern Beauty
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SHOPPING the Japanese-American experience. Tu-W, F-Su 11 am-5 pm; Th noon-8 pm. $6-$12, under 6 free, Th 5-8 pm and third Thursday of the month free. 100 N. Central Ave., downtown, 213.625.0414 Map H17 KIDSPACE CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Celebrating 40 years, this museum for kids ages 1-10 offers more than 40 fun hands-on exhibits, programs and monthly events on almost 3.5 acres of indoor and outdoor space. M-F 9:30 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $14, under 1 free. 480 N. Arroyo Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.9144 Map Q18 LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART The largest art museum in the western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus. M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $16-$25, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13 LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST The West Coast’s largest collection of Holocaust-era artifacts housed in an award-winning architectural building. Interactive exhibits, public tours and Holocaust survivor talks. Sa-Th 10 am-5 pm; F 10 am-2 pm. Free. Pan Pacific Park, 100 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.651.3704 Map I13 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Premier contemporary-art museum housed in two facilities: MOCA Grand Avenue and the Geffen Contemporary. M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. $8-$15, under 12 free. MOCA Grand Avenue, 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA, 152 N. Central Ave., downtown, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17 MUSEUM OF LATIN AMERICAN ART Leading museum of modern and contemporary Latin American art; Robert Gumbiner Sculpture Garden. W, F-Su 11 am-5 pm; Th 11 am-9 pm. $7-$10, under 12 free. Sunday and fourth Thursday of the month 5-9 pm free. 628 Alamitos Ave., Long Beach, 562.437.1689 Map O6 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, humanrights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-F 10 am-5 pm. $11.50-$15.50. Anne: $12.50-$15.50. Under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.772.2506 Map J11
LA ZOO LA ZOO LIGHTS N I 15 G –HJAN T LY NIGHTLY NOV 5 LIGHTS NOV 27–JAN 3 *
N I G HDISCOUNT T LY SPECIAL
on L.A. Zoo Lights admission NOV 27–JAN 3 for WhereTraveler readers!
Purchase online with code 19TTZL
Get your tickets today at LAZooLights.org
Discount for online purchase only. Not valid for daytime admission. *Closed November 28, December 24, and December 25.
9/30/2019 Los Angeles Zoo File prep: Miss Cecilia
323-336-2596
Pub: Where Magazine Color: CMYK
PMS: None
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NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Museum displays about 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles. Daily 10 am-6 pm. $8-$16, under 3 free. Tours of vault $20-$30, under 10 not admitted. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13 SKIRBALL CULTURAL CENTER Cultural venue highlights the American Jewish experience through engaging exhibitions and programs. The award-winning Noah’s Ark attraction is great for tots. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Thursdays. 2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9
SHOPPING THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with 90 stores; a Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere; and a trolley. Toms and & Other Stories are among the 90 or so stores. Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak by Michael Mina. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23
MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE www.museumoftolerance.com
9786 west pico boulevard los angeles, ca 90035 t: 310.772.2506
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SPAS BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall just completed a multimillion-dollar renovation. It has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana) and is anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. New dining options include Angler from chef Joshua Skenes, Cal Mare, Farmhouse, Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, Pitchoun!, Eggslut and Easy’s diner. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CITADEL OUTLETS Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Coach, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 THE GROVE Outdoor center is home to 40 shops including Apple, Nordstrom and new Charlotte Tilbury and restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel, all in a setting inspired by a grand old downtown. The movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are additional draws. Adjacent to Original Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13 MALIBU COUNTRY MART Outdoor center with upscale boutiques including Paige and Victoire, plus Cie Sparks salon and restaurants. Malibu Lumber Yard and Malibu Village are adjacent. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7 PALISADES VILLAGE The newest shopping destination from Caruso (the Grove, Americana at Brand) is an upscale walkable village home to over 40 uniquely curated boutiques including Amazon Books, Jennifer Meyer and Veronica Beard, as well as fresh dining options and a restored historic movie theater. 15225 Palisades Village Lane, Pacific Palisades, 310.525.1380 Map K7 PLATFORM Collection of cult-favorite retailers (The Edit by Freda Salvador + Janessa Leoné, Velvet, Aesop, Tenoverten, Bird) in Culver City’s up-and-coming Hayden Tract neighborhood. Delicious dining options include Loqui and Brooklyn import Roberta’s. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City, platformla.com Map M11 THE POINT Small, upscale outdoor shopping center features trendy retailers including Planet Blue, Lucky Brand and Madewell; top eateries (True Food Kitchen, Umi by Hamasaku, Superba Food + Bread); and fitness destination SoulCycle. 850 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.414.5280, thepointsb.com Map L13 SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at the south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, including Lorna Jane and Rimowa, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8 SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Chanel, Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Givenchy) and 40 restaurants, including Water Grill. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6 THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes shops (Anthropologie, Converse, Cotton On, Zara), kiosks and an array of entertaining street performers. 1351 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8 TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features luxury boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus fine-art gallery Galerie Michael and restaurant 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11 THE VILLAGE AT WESTFIELD TOPANGA Newer lifestyle destination across the street from Westfield Topanga shopping center (with trolley service connecting the two) offers stylish retailers (Rent the Runway, Fabletics), restaurants with alfresco dining, a Burke Williams spa, a yoga studio, a children’s play area
and more. 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.594.8732 Map west of A1 WESTFIELD AT LAX Travelers flying out of LAX can enjoy some of L.A.’s top retail and dining options (Fred Segal, MAC Cosmetics, Petrossian, Porsche Design) in LAX’s Tom Bradley International Terminal, as well as terminals 1, 2, 3 and 6. 380 World Way, L.A., 310.646.1770, westfieldairports.com/lax Map O10 WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY Open-air shopping center fresh from a $1 billion revitalization has more than 175 stores including Compartés Chocolatier and Equipment; a luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen; a food-court atrium and terrace; and the West Coast’s first Eataly. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.277.3898 Map J11
SPAS CHUAN SPA Elegant spa at the Langham Huntington, Pasadena offers treatments inspired by traditional Chinese medicine; high-tech facials; an herbal steam room, sauna and whirlpool; a fitness center; and a full-service salon. 1401 S. Oak Knoll Ave., Pasadena, 626.585.6414 Map R20 CIEL SPA Philippe Starck-designed modern retreat by Pearl Recovery Retreat and Wellness at the SLS Hotel at Beverly Hills offers luxurious services and product lines such as Biologique Recherche, plus a full-service salon. Access to fitness center and Altitude pool deck. Herbal steam room, showers. 465 S. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.246.5560 Map I12 HOTEL BEL-AIR SPA Valmont’s signature high-performance anti-aging products are spotlighted at the Hotel Bel-Air’s spa—the only California spa that offers the Swiss line. Nestled in the hotel’s tropical gardens, the spa features a couple’s enclave, steam rooms, marble showers and a relaxation room. 701 Stone Canyon Road, L.A., 310.909.1681 Map I10 LA PRAIRIE SPA The Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills’ opulent, 5,000-square-foot spa offers luxurious facial, nail and body treatments using products from the renowned La Prairie skin care line. 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6740 Map J11 OLE HENRIKSEN FACE/BODY SPA Full-service spa to the stars specializes in face and body care and also offers nail services. Coed steam room. In the Sunset Plaza shopping center; mobile spa services available. 8622 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 310.854.7700 Map H12 THE RITZ-CARLTON SPA, LOS ANGELES The 8,000-square-foot, Hollywood-inspired spa at the Ritz-Carlton at L.A. Live offers a glamorous coed lounge, separate lounges with eucalyptus steam rooms and cold-plunge showers, a couple’s suite, a hair salon and a boutique. 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.4400 Map I15 SPA AT BEVERLY WILSHIRE The spa features a delightful aromatherapy crystal steam room; Natura Bissé, Évolué and Elemis products and services. The Nail Bar offers shellac manicures and pedicures while Pretty Woman plays on a loop. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.385.7023 Map J11 THE SPA AT FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LOS ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS Petite luxury spa with Easternand Western-style body treatments, an adjacent Nail Suite and facials. 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.273.4444 Map J11 SPA MONTAGE The last word in luxury spas, with deluxe services including L.Raphael facials and facilities including dry redwood saunas, steam rooms, whirlpools, showers and a coed mineral pool. Also on-site are Kim Vo Salon and Gornik & Drucker barbershop and fitness facilities. 225 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.860.7840 Map J11
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NIGHTLIFE THE SPA AT TERRANEA Terranea Resort’s 50,000-square-foot indoor-outdoor spa, set on a bluff overlooking the ocean, offers 25 treatment rooms; a fitness and wellness center; an outdoor spa pool; a café; a full-service salon; and separate indoor and outdoor spa lounges with saunas, steam rooms, whirlpools, cold plunges and fire pits. 100 Terranea Way, Rancho Palos Verdes, 310.265.2740 Map O13 TIKKUN HOLISTIC SPA Tucked underground in Santa Monica is this traditional Korean spa with contemporary style. Clay room, salt room, ice room, plus sauna, whirlpool, showers. 1460 4th St., Santa Monica, 310.319.1111 Map L8 TOMOKO JAPANESE SPA Celebrity-frequented, ultra-luxurious Japanese day spa offers massages that focus on the healing powers of Chi (blood) and Qi (energy). 141 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.205.7300 Map J11
InspIre HumanIty tHrougH trutH Los angeLes museum of tHe HoLocaust
NIGHTLIFE 1 OAK Strikingly seductive, art-filled club from New York. 9039 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.2326 Map H12 THE ABBEY David Cooley’s world-famous gay bar and nightclub. Newer concept the Chapel at the Abbey is adjacent. 692 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.289.8410 Map H12 ARTS DISTRICT BREWING CO. Pouring With Heart’s Arts District brewery and tasting room with classic bar games and an outdoor patio and food available via a takeout window. 828 Traction Ave., downtown, 213.519.5887 Map I17
admission always free. 100 the grove Drive Los angeles, ca 90036 www.lamoth.org
AVALON HOLLYWOOD Dance club and concert venue with a storied past: It hosted the Beatles’ first West Coast performance. Intimate club Bardot is upstairs. 1735 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.462.8900 Map H14 BASEMENT TAVERN Underground speakeasy in a Victorian abode; live music. The Victorian, 2640 Main St., Santa Monica, 310.396.2469 Map M8 BEER BELLY Tiny craft-beer bar focusing on Southern California-brewed beers. Pair with grilled cheese sandwiches and duck-fat fries. 255 Long Beach Blvd., Long Beach, 562.436.2337 Map N16 BIGFOOT LODGE Kitschy log-cabin-themed watering hole from the 1933 Group. 3172 Los Feliz Blvd., L.A., 323.662.9227; Bigfoot West, 10939 Venice Blvd., Culver City, 310.287.2200 Map northeast of V23, M11 BLIND BARBER Craft-cocktail-driven speakeasy hidden in the rear of a barbershop. New Highland Park location. 10797 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.841.6679; 5715 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.739.0315 Map L11, S18 BOOTSY BELLOWS H.Wood Group’s nightclub with burlesque shows and other live entertainment boasts a gorgeous new Palm Springs-inspired design. 9229 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.274.7500 Map H12 BREAK ROOM 86 1980s-style bar inside the Line Hotel with karaoke suites and live entertainment. (Break-dancing? Moonwalking? Check and check.) 630 S. Ardmore Ave., L.A., 213.368.3056 Map west of H15 THE BUNGALOW Seaside cottage-style nightspot with gourmet bites by Fig Restaurant. The Fairmont Miramar Hotel & Bungalows, 101 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.8530 Map L8 COVELL Intimate Los Feliz neighborhood wine bar from restaurateur Dustin Lancaster of L&E Oyster Bar is a favorite with locals. 4628 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.660.4400 Map W23
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BEACHES
20 CENTURY
HERMOSA BEACH 2-mile stretch of beach along Santa Monica Bay with combination bike path/boardwalk and pier. Hermosa Avenue and 33rd Street, Hermosa Beach Map L13
HARLOWE Spacious, vintage-glam restaurant and bar from the 1933 Group. 721 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.876.5839 Map H13
LA PIEDRA STATE BEACH Stairs lead to 9 acres of narrow, sandy beach. 32700 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9
LA DESCARGA Cuban-inspired rum bar. Live band and dance performances. Reservations recommended. Upscale dress code. 1159 N. Western Ave., L.A., 323.466.1324 Map east of H14
LEO CARRILLO STATE BEACH 1.5 miles of beach for swimming, surfing, windsurfing, surf fishing, plus tide pools, coastal caves and reefs for exploring. 36000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9
LAUGH FACTORY Famed comedy nightclub regularly hosts the biggest names in stand-up. 8001 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.656.1336; 151 S. Pine Ave., Long Beach, 562.495.2844 Map H12, N16
MALIBU LAGOON STATE BEACH 167-acre beach includes Malibu Pier, Malibu Lagoon, Surfrider Beach, the Adamson House and a museum that highlights the area’s history. 23050 and 23200 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9
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DOHENY ROOM Stylish art deco-style bar and lounge from the SBE Group offers a diverse menu by Cleo chef Danny Elmaleh. 9077 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 424.777.0266 Map H12
MELROSE UMBRELLA CO. Rustic-chic space with creative cocktails and inventive fare. 7465 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.951.0709 Map I12 THE NICE GUY H.Wood Group’s reservations-only, Italian-inspired restaurant and mixology lounge. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.360.9500 Map I12 A Pointer Sister Collection
CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF ICON FASHION
WARDROBE DESIGNS COSTUMES MEMORABILIA AND CULTURE
NO VACANCY Gin cocktails and live entertainment in a Victorian boutique hotel. 1727 N. Hudson Ave., Hollywood, 323.465.1902 Map H14 PERCH Open-air roost in a historic building overlooking Pershing Square; indoor cabaret lounge Bar Thirteen is below. 448 S. Hill St., downtown, 213.802.1770 Map I16 POUR VOUS Parisian-inspired Champagne and cocktail salon. Upscale dress code. 5574 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.871.8699 Map I14
MANHATTAN BEACH Beach is dotted with beachvolleyball nets and bisected by a 900-foot pier featuring the recently renovated Roundhouse Aquarium. 4004500 The Strand, Manhattan Beach Map L13 MARINA “MOTHER’S” BEACH Non-ocean-facing beach best suited for children and windsurfers. Beach wheelchairs available. 4101 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey Map N9 NICHOLAS CANYON BEACH 23-acre beach is less crowded than many others in Malibu and is one of the few perfect point breaks left in L.A. County. 33850 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9
SEVEN GRAND Whiskey bar with tongue-in-cheek hunt-club decor. Intimate Bar Jackalope is hidden in the back and features more than 120 premium whiskeys. 515 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.614.0737 Map I16
PENINSULA BEACH Moderate width, sandy beach. Good for swimming. Along Ocean Boulevard, 54th Place to 72nd Place, Long Beach Map O17
THE SPARE ROOM Gaming parlor and cocktail lounge with bowling lanes and fancy drinks. The Hollywood Roosevelt, 7000 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.769.7296 Map H13
POINT DUME STATE BEACH Cliffs and rocky coves border this beach, one of the most beautiful along the L.A. coastline. 7103 Westward Beach Road, Malibu Map northwest of K9
UPSTAIRS Bar with stunning city views atop Ace Hotel, in the historic United Artists Building. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16
REDONDO BEACH A 1.5-mile beach that runs south of the pier to Torrance Beach. 400-1700 Esplanade, Redondo Beach Map M13
BEACHES
SANTA MONICA STATE BEACH 3.5-mile-long beach features wide, sandy expanses divided by the iconic Santa Monica Pier. 100-2900 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica Map M8
BELMONT SHORE Wide and sandy; on-site dog beach. Along Ocean Boulevard, from 54th Place to Belmont Pier, Long Beach Map O17
Visit Hannibal Lector’s Jail Cell The Silence of the Lambs, in the Dungeon of Doom
MALIBU SURFRIDER BEACH World-renowned surfing area between Malibu’s pier and lagoon. Swimming areas are limited. 23050 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9
CABRILLO BEACH Inside the breakwater it’s a stillwater beach, and on the ocean it’s a surf beach. Public boat-launching ramp on harbor side. 40th Street and Stephen M. White Drive, San Pedro Map O15 DAN BLOCKER BEACH Sandy, narrow beach draws surfers and divers. Great spot for scuba enthusiasts. Limited free roadside parking. 26000 block of Pacific Coast Highway, Malibu Map northwest of K9 DOCKWEILER STATE BEACH Wide expanse of beach near LAX with 3.7 miles of ocean frontage and 255 acres. Bonfires permitted. 12501 Vista del Mar, Playa del Rey Map C1 EL MATADOR STATE BEACH One of the prettiest beaches in L.A. County. Steep stairs lead to 18 acres of narrow, sandy beach with scenic rock formations. 32350 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9 EL PESCADOR STATE BEACH Stairs lead to 10 acres of narrow, sandy beach. 32900 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K9
TOPANGA BEACH Rocky and narrow Malibu beach is a popular surfing spot but unsafe for swimming. 18700 Pacific Coast Hwy., Topanga Map northwest of K9 VENICE BEACH Famous boardwalk with street performers and shops is one of SoCal’s biggest attractions. The north end is home to “Muscle Beach.” 2700-3100 Ocean Front Walk, Venice Map N9 WILL ROGERS STATE BEACH Sandy 3-mile beach is starting point for the Marvin Braude Bike Trail. Popular for swimming and skin diving; volleyball courts. 17700 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades Map K7 ZUMA BEACH The ultimate SoCal beach. Food stands at each end of its 4-mile expanse along PCH. 30000 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu Map northwest of K7
EXPLORE AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com
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EXPLORE BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10 CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservations recommended. Call or check website for hours and prices. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium allows guests to visit the field, dugout and the Lexus Dugout Club, home to the Dodgers’ World Series trophies and other awards. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 866.363.4377 Map G17 EXOTICS RACING LOS ANGELES SUPERCAR TOUR Known for top-notch driving experiences, Exotics Racing lets you explore Los Angeles while enjoying the luxurious drive of a Ferrari 488, a Lamborghini Huracan, a McLaren 570S and a Maserati Gran Turismo. Tours offered Su-F 8:30 am-7 pm. 120 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.220.2671, exoticsracing.com Map M8 HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from sunset dinner, cocktail and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 855.290.0383, hornblower.com Map O9 LOS ANGELES CONSERVANCY This preservation organization based in DTLA offers more than a dozen walking tours of historic sites—including Union Station and Angelino Heights—with a focus on architecture. 213.623.2489, laconservancy.org MELTING POT FOOD TOURS Tasting tours of foodie destinations such as Thai Town, the Original Farmers Market and select restaurants. Private tours available. Reservations required. 424.247.9666; tickets, 800.979.3370, meltingpottours.com METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Santa Monica, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net METROLINK Regional train system connects L.A. County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties. Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown L.A. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com
NATURE, ART, CULTURE 626-405-2240 | Pasadena-adjacent Tours@huntington.org
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30 THINGS WE LOVE THIS MONTH
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1 Eye-catching pieces by L.A. artist Lari Pittman, on display at the Hammer Museum. p. 66
9 Matzo ball soup at Rustic
2 Sustainable, L.A.-made
10 Discovering the science
apparel at Whimsy + Row’s first brick-and-mortar boutique. p. 22
3 Midcentury-inspired decor at NewMade LA. newmadela.com 4 Treats from vendors including
Jessie’s Nutty Cups at sweets showcase Dessert Goals. p. 6
5 Bowling a few games at the 1933 Group’s gorgeously refurbished Highland Park Bowl. p. 11 6 Fall flavors—like Cinnamon
& Oatmeal Raisin Cookies—at McConnells Fine Ice Creams. mcconnells.com
7 Cutting-edge cuisine from
Michelin-starred Somni. p. 19
8 Snapping a photo with Blue at Universal Studios Hollywood’s Jurassic World Run. p. 66
Canyon chef Jeremy Fox’s newest restaurant, Birdie G’s. p. 9
behind horror icons at Natural History of Horror at the Natural History Museum. p. 68
16 Worth-the-wait dogs at Pink’s Hot Dogs. p. 56
17 Fall styles at French label ba&sh’s new Malibu Country Mart boutique. p. 70
18 The Tiffany 1837 Makers
the pretty, plant-filled patio at Ricardo Zarate’s Rosaliné. p. 59
Trophy Ring, part of Tiffany & Co.’s new men’s collection, popping up at The Grove through Nov. 27. p. 70
12 Los Angeles Ballet’s festive
19 Refreshing cocktails paired
11 Dining on lomo saltado on
Nutcracker Tea at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, Nov. 15-17. 310.860.6666
with Michelin-starred seafood at chef Michael Cimarusti’s Providence. p. 19
13 Pizzaiolo Daniele Uditi’s neoNeapolitan pies at Pizzana’s new West Hollywood outpost. p. 32
20 H.Wood Group nightclub
14 Potato balls from the new-
21 Adobada tacos and vampiros
Bootsy Bellows’ new Palm Springs-inspired design. p. 72
est location of Porto’s Bakery & Cafe, in West Covina. p. 46
at Tijuana-style Tacos 1986’s new DTLA location. p. 40
15 Warm caviar on banana
22 Stepping back in time at
pancakes at Bay Area chef Joshua Skenes’ new Angler at the Beverly Center. p. 52
the newly reopened Formosa, where you can dine in a 1904 red trolley car. 323.850.1009
29 23 The stunning new V DTLA— a coffee shop/restaurant/ lounge inside a former jewelry store from the 1920s. p. 8
24 Feminine styles at Veronica Beard’s sunny new boutique at Palisades Village. p. 70
25 Chef Ludo Lefebvre’s
tasting menu at Trois Mec. p. 19
26 Customized facials by
A-list-favorite Shani Darden at her new studio. shanidarden.com
27 Catching a screening at ArcLight Hollywood’s historic Cinerama Dome. 323.464.1478 28 The Infinity Coral exhibit at the Aquarium of the Pacific’s new Pacific Visions wing. p. 64
29 Sunset views from OUE
Skyspace LA in the U.S. Bank Tower building. p. 66
30 Treasure hunting at Stars Antique Market. p. 48
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