Where Traveler Los Angeles, December 2019

LOS ANGELES DEC

2019

FESTIVE FUN AND POP-UP MARKETS NEW SHOPPING CENTER 2ND & PCH AROUND THE WORLD AT L.A. RESTAURANTS

Sweet SPOT

Wrap up the year with artisanal treats and other L.A.-made giftable goodies

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DEC 2019

CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS Hot Dates 6 Where Now 8 Maps 75 30 Things We Love 80 CITY TOURS 21 Beverly Hills 22 Santa Monica 26 West Hollywood 30 Hollywood 34 Downtown 38 Pasadena 42 South Bay 46 The Valley 50

DEC

2019

FESTIVE FUN AND POP-UP MARKETS NEW SHOPPING CENTER 2ND & PCH AROUND THE WORLD AT L.A. RESTAURANTS

Sweet SPOT

Wrap up the year with artisanal treats and other L.A.-made giftable goodies

SPIRIT OF BIG BANG

hublot.com

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Yellow sapphire case.

Self-winding chronograph movement.

Limited to 100 pieces.

COVER

English toffee chocolates at Compartés’ new Chocolate Factory & Store.

See p. 8.

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California style from Parks Project

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A trio of caviar at Osteria Cal Mare

FEATURES

14 Present Perfect

Holiday shopping, solved: We’ve hunted down haute home decor, beautiful baubles, California-cool styles, foodie-favored treats and L.A.-centric books that will make perfect gifts for everyone on your list. BY MARINA KAY

THE GUIDE 54 Dining 70 Shopping 62 Entertainment 72 Explore 64 Attractions

18 Global Gourmet

The personality of culturally diverse Los Angeles is shaped by the entire planet— and so is the city’s cuisine. These 13 restaurants offer a trip around the world—from South America to Australia—on a plate. BY ROGER GRODY C O N N E CT W I T H U S O N L I N E S O CA L P U L S E . CO M

FROM TOP: CASSI ELLIS HAIDEN; JORDAN WISE. COVER: COURTESY COMPARTÉS

ON THE

LOS ANGELES

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HOT DATES

Coming Up Roses

DECEMBER

EVENTS Starting Dec. 26 Every year, hundreds of thousands head to Pasadena to welcome the new year with rose-colored glasses.

The Tournament of Roses’ Rose Parade and Rose Bowl Game on New Year’s Day are the main attractions, but the week before, events including Equestfest, Bandfest and culinary showcase Sip & Savor give you a sneak peek of the festivities. For a hands-on experience, volunteer at a designated “decorating place” to help put final touches on the floral floats (pictured here). p. 62

FESTIVE THINGS THIS MONTH HERE FOR THE WEEKEND? Check out our Weekend Roundup at SoCalPulse.com

animated film Frozen come to life onstage. p. 64

Floats, marching bands and celebrities make their way through Hollywood during this annual holiday extravaganza. p. 62

HOLIDAY MARKET

Dec. 1

THE NUTCRACKER

Dec. 1, 7-8, 13-15, 20-24, 28-29 The Los Angeles Ballet is one of several local dance troupes performing Tchaikovsky’s wonderfully wintry work at venues across the city this month. p. 62

DISNEY’S FROZEN

Opening Dec. 4 Bring the kids to the Pantages to see the popular

Dec. 14-15

Get some last-minute holiday shopping in at this marketplace at hip Hauser & Wirth gallery in the Arts District. Vendors include Milla Chocolates and Otherwild. hauserwirth.com

UNIQUE MARKETS HOLIDAY POP-UP Dec. 14-15

Or head to the Santa Monica Pier for some seaside shopping. Find one-of-a-kind gifts from hundreds of independent designers, artists and local emerging brands. p. 62

L.A. COUNTY HOLIDAY CELEBRATION Dec. 24

This annual free show— celebrating its 60th anniversary this year— returns to Dorothy Chandler Pavilion with bands, choirs and dancers who represent L.A.’s many cultures. p. 64

LOVE ACTUALLY LIVE

Through Dec. 29 For the Record brings the beloved British holiday rom-com to life at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts. p. 64

NEW YEAR’S EVE: PAST & PRESENT Dec. 31

Welcome the new year at

the Queen Mary, where you can step into past decades with live music, dancing, a speakeasy and a midnight fireworks show. p. 66

PROHIBITION NYE Dec. 31

Union Station travels back in time to the Roaring ’20s with this fabulous fete. Don your flapper finest and enjoy burlesque shows, live jazz ensembles and an open bar. prohibitionnye.com

THE BAI HOLIDAY ICE RINK PERSHING SQUARE All month

Skate in the shadow of skyscrapers at this outdoor ice rink, which pops up every winter in DTLA. p. 62

CAT SIMPSON / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

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THE HOLLYWOOD CHRISTMAS PARADE

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THE PLACE TO HOLIDAY ANTHROPOLOGIE | BLOOMINGDALE’S | BUCK MASON DYSON | MACY’S | MESSIKA | TORY BURCH PLUS OVER 200 STORES

@WestfieldCenturyCity

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WHERE NOW DECEMBER

SHOPPING

Golden Ticket

Renowned artisanal chocolatier Compartés is celebrating its 70th anniversary in Los Angeles by unveiling a state-of-the-art Hollywood Chocolate Factory & Store—the brand’s new flagship space. Real-life Willy Wonka Jonathan Graham, Compartés’ creative director/CEO, is behind the striking design, which features imported Italian marble, hand-drawn light fixtures and 14-foot-high custom-made brass doors inspired by the Hollywood Bowl. Peer through floor-to-ceiling glass windows to see products like truffles (pictured here) and the brand’s popular Cereal Bowl and Rosé Wine Pink Chocolate Bars being made from scratch in the 6,000-square-foot kitchen. An open-space gift shop is available for private tours, special events and tastings. 516 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.826.3380, compartes.com

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS; BRANDON SHIGETA; COURTESY THE CAUSE COLLECTION. OPPOSITE: COURTESY COMPARTÉS

From left: 2ND & PCH; a mural by the Draculas

SHOP AND STAY AWHILE The southeastern gateway to Long Beach has a snazzy new welcome mat: 2ND & PCH, a 215,000-plus-square-foot waterfront retail complex across from Alamitos Bay and the Long Beach Marina. The flagship SoCal property for El Segundo-based CenterCal Properties began greeting visitors this fall with a diverse lineup of tenants anchored by Whole Foods Market. Athleta, Gorjana, Johnny Was and Free People are among the on-trend fashion boutiques already open; an array of upscale restaurants including Otosan Sushi and three microconcepts by Border Grill chefs Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger are planned, too. Barry’s Bootcamp and Hawt Yoga are among the wellness and fitness options rounding out the list. What’s more, the complex also features a series of murals and large-scale art installations curated in partnership with Jasper Wong, creator and lead director of nonprofit artist organization POW! WOW! Together with Wi-Fi, fire pits, water features, lush landscaping, dedicated bicycle lanes and other amenities, the arts programming helps elevate the “coastal contemporary”-style center into a vibrant gathering place for Long Beach locals and visitors alike. E. 2nd Street & Pacific Coast Highway, Long Beach, 2ndandpch.com

Purchase With Purpose When it’s time to upgrade your wardrobe, The Cause Collection doesn’t just want you to invest in its high-quality basics; it wants you to invest in social changemakers, too. The contemporary womenswear brand, which recently opened its first brick-and-mortar in Beverly Grove, contributes a portion of funds from each sale to a charity promoting tolerance, humanitarianism or social justice, letting custom-

ers pick the cause closest to their hearts. (Current partners are GLSEN, an organization that supports LGBTQ youth; Healthy Housing Foundations; and the ACLU of Southern California.) The brainchild of New York Times best-selling author, entrepreneur and mother of three Cheryl Najafi, the philanthropic company makes quarterly contributions to other impactful nonprofits, too.

That thoughtfulness extends to

its responsibly manufactured, made-to-last clothing, which ranges from $88-$579 and includes the flattering jersey Spruce T-shirt, feminine silk blouses and maxi-dresses, and the travel-friendly Wonder cashmere raglan sweater and matching track pant. With options like these, shopping with a conscience looks and feels oh-so-good. 8222 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.433.4750, thecausecollection.com

The Cause Collection’s responsibly manufactured styles

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WHERE NOW DECEMBER

NIGHTLIFE

After months of construction, the reimagining of the Lost Knight space on Echo Park’s main drag is complete, transforming the former English pub into three distinct concepts. Lowboy was first to open: A low-key neighborhood bar with a cool vibe and dog-friendly patio, it offers draft beer and simple yet satisfying cocktails, plus a smash burger that’s made waves with foodies (1540 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.266.8161, lowboybar. com). Adamae—a sunny, inviting dinner and weekend brunch spot named after Ada Mae Sharpless, creator of the “Lady of the Lake” statue at Echo Park Lake—debuted next.

Blond wood, hanging rope lights and floral banquettes pair nicely with a menu of California staples including whipped goat’s cheese and chargrilled octopus (1538 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.266.8001, adamae.la). Most recently, Bar Flores opened its doors, from Karla Flores-Mercado, who founded the pop-up speakeasy Sip. Climb a tiled stairwell to enjoy vibrant cocktails with a view. We recommend pairing the rum-based Tiki Cocktail (pictured here) with savory Sinaloastyle tamales (1542 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 213.266.8006, barflores.com).

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY SLONE VINTAGE; COURTESY YOGA BLEND; COURTESY TONY’S DARTS AWAY. OPPOSITE: KEVIN VU KIM

Triple Threat

F O R M O R E T H I N G S T O D O I N M A G N O L I A PA R K , V I S I T S O C A L P U L S E . C O M

ONE BLOCK THINGS TO DO IN

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY SLONE VINTAGE; COURTESY YOGA BLEND; COURTESY TONY’S DARTS AWAY. OPPOSITE: KEVIN VU KIM

MAGNOLIA PARK

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Porto’s Bakery & Cafe; Slone Vintage; a class at Yoga Blend; craft beer at Tony’s Darts Away

SHOP

EAT

DRINK

DO

Burbank’s Magnolia Park is known for its vintage shopping. Shop seen-on-TV outfits at It’s a Wrap!

Slone Vintage offers a curated selection organized by decade, while Unique Vintage sells new styles with a retro feel. Also find comics at Blast From the Past; music at Atomic Records; and everything beauty at Naimie’s.

Fuel your retail marathon with classic Italian food at Pinocchio Restaurant. Or brave the line at Porto’s Bakery & Cafe for Cuban sandwiches and potato balls.

Family-owned World Empanadas offers a taste of Argentina. For dessert, Yummy Cupcakes, Plush Puffs and cult favorite Doughnut Hut will satisfy your sweet tooth.

Get your caffeine fix at Blvd Cafecito, or sip Instagram-worthy lattes at The Palm Coffee Bar. Romancing the Bean has delicious coffee concoctions, and its owners are also behind dinner and drinks spot The New Deal. Head to Marché Wine Bar for a glass of vino, or Tony’s Darts Away for craft beer, games and vegan eats.

Tickle your funny bone at an improv show or class at L.A. Connection Comedy Theatre; unleash your inner Picasso while imbibing at Wine & Design; or expand your mind at the Martial Arts History Museum. If you’re feeling stressed, relax with a class at Yoga Blend, then pamper yourself at Burbank Spa & Garden, a cozy oasis.

It’s a Wrap! itsawraphollywood.com

Slone Vintage @slonevintage

Unique Vintage unique-vintage.com

Blast From the Past blastfromthepast.tv

Pinocchio Restaurant montecarlodeli.com

Porto’s Bakery & Cafe portosbakery.com

World Empanadas worldempanadas.com

Yummy Cupcakes yummycupcakes.com

Atomic Records

Plush Puffs

atomicrecordsla.com

plushpuffs.com

Naimie’s naimies.com

Doughnut Hut donuthutla.com

Blvd Cafecito @blvdcafecito

The Palm Coffee Bar thepalmcoffeebar.com

Romancing the Bean romancingthebeancafe.com

The New Deal @thenewdeal_

Marché Wine Bar marchewinebar.com

Tony’s Darts Away tonysda.com

L.A. Connection Comedy Theatre laconnectioncomedy.com

Wine & Design wineanddesign.com

Martial Arts History Museum martialartsmuseum.com

Yoga Blend yogablend.com

Burbank Spa & Garden burbankspa.com WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 11

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art is just the beginning

Š 2019

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Getty C

Bring your family to the Getty Center this holiday season and discover something for everyone.

art+

Critically acclaimed exhibitions Manet and Modern Beauty On view through Jan. 12, 2020 “Lovely, deeply affecting” —Los Angeles Times Unseen: 35 Years of Collecting Photographs On view Dec. 17, 2019, through Mar. 8, 2020

+ + + © 2019 J. Paul Getty Trust

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Shopping Five stores, plus an online shop, offering one-of-a-kind-gifts for loved ones

Gardens Artful landscapes at every turn and the Central Garden in its winter splendor

Seasonal menus Everything from lattes al fresco to family celebrations at our elegant restaurant— all served with panoramic views

FREE ADMISSION | getty.edu 10/23/19 4:58 PM 11/6/19 4:24 PM

Present Perfect Finish the decade strong by acing your holiday shopping this month. Full of L.A. love and packed with ideas for art aficionados, coffee connoisseurs and fashionistas alike, our yearly gift guide boasts little luxuries, exquisite jewelry, limited-edition artworks and gourmet delicacies. by MARINA KAY

/ BEAUTY / Skin is in! Gloriously healthy and hydrated skin is the name of the skin care game, and local brand OSEA makes a lightweight, ultra-concentrated Undaria Algae Body Oil ($48) with USDA-certified organic seaweed and vitamin-rich botanical oils: acai, passion fruit, babassu and Ayurvedic sesame. Victoria Beckham is a fan. 1732 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.985.1447, oseamalibu.com Celebrity dermatologist Dr. Harold Lancer, the skin care guru to Kim Kardashian and Ryan Seacrest, is behind Lancer Skincare, now available in select department stores. Get his beautifying results at home with gift sets like the Nourish Luxe Set ($125), with a nurturing peptide moisturizer, caviar lime acid peel and eye contour lifting cream.

Nordstrom, The Grove, 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.930.2230; lancerskincare.com International makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury’s first-ever Beauty Wonderland flagship in

the U.S. literally dazzles. Its beautifully packaged product selection includes the Filmstar Bronze & Glow in a limitededition palette shimmering with Swarovski crystals ($75), as well as Mini Hot Lips ($25), a trio of mini lipsticks in shades inspired by trailblazers including Amal Clooney and J.K. Rowling. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 310.651.6830, charlottetilbury.com For the crystal converts in your life, Tiny Bandit Crystal Candles—hand-poured and paired with healing crystals to emanate positivity—are great for clearing energy. The Moon Milk scent includes amazonite, citrine and clear quartz (9 oz. from $64).

Gift sets also feature body sprays and roller perfumes. Available at the Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.2251; tinybandit.com

/ STYLE / Winter means wearing layers—even in usually sunny L.A. The Evan Jacket ($198) is a dRA season favorite, fully lined in buttery-soft espresso faux fur with pockets, a rolled collar and cuffed bell sleeves.

Row DTLA, 1320 E. 7th St., M2 Suite 122, downtown, 323.477.1227, draclothing.com

Just launched by The Great, from Emily Current and Meritt Elliott, are the label’s women’s ready-to-wear holiday collection—the Cabin Jacket with belt ($395) and the feminine Tuxedo Button Up ($265) are standouts—and a men’s collection of boxy crew tees ($95) and college sweatshirts ($175). 8575 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 424.302.0558, thisisthegreat.com For ultra-comfortable and versatile footwear, R0AM slider sandals are the real deal. Their cushion-foam footbeds and shock-absorbing soles are fashioned with a range of textures and patterns including silky soft faux fur, camo and metallic crossover styles. Available at Guild in Venice, 1335 1⁄2 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.396.8300; roamwears.com Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills plays host to a Gadbois Jewelry pop-up shop through the end of the year. Located on the hotel’s ground floor, Gadbois wows with the brand’s 18-karat-gold

Clockwise from top left: LA Original x Janel Foo Glassworks Sunset Suncatcher; a Sloane Street chain and pendant at Gadbois Jewelry’s pop-up; Charlotte Tilbury’s Instant Look in a Palette; R0AM’s Cloud Pink slider sandals. Opposite, clockwise from top left: The Tiffany & Co. Advent Calendar; Tuesday Bassen pins for LA Original; a tee from Parks Project; OMAMImini’s Deer Ballerina Doll

Sloane Street jewelry collection—dainty stackable rings and layering necklaces accented with diamonds and precious and semiprecious gemstones.

9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6666; gadboisjewelry.com At its first stand-alone U.S. store, French fine jewelry house Messika carries iconic pieces from the Maison, including the signature Move collection— featuring the lovely Move Noa small pavé bangle ($12,030)— and the Lucky Move collection that introduced Kate Moss, Joan Smalls and Sylvia Hoeks as the new faces of the brand. Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Level 1, L.A., 310.772.0988, messika.com Charm a special loved one with Tiffany & Co.’s first-ever Advent Calendar ($112,000).

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY TIFFANY & CO.; COURTESY LA ORIGINAL; CASSI ELLIS HAIDEN; COURTESY OMAMIMINI. OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY LA ORIGINAL; COURTESY GADBOIS JEWELRY; COURTESY CHARLOTTETILBURY.COM; COURTESY R0AM

Each day until Dec. 24 reveals an opulent gift, including the Tiffany & Love Eau de Parfum for Her and a Tiffany T Square Bracelet in 18-karat rose gold with pavé diamonds. Tiffany & Co., 210 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.273.8880, additional locations at tiffany.com

/ KIDS / Young fashionistas can channel Hollywood chic in a pale pink Kids Faux Fur Coat ($158) from OMAMImini. It’s slightly oversized and adorably hip, and perfect when matched with an exquisitely crafted Deer Ballerina Doll ($34). Row DTLA, 1320 E. 7th St., #136, downtown, 213.221.7821, omamimini.com Yolk is a treasure trove of handcrafted toys for all ages.

Finds include the Alpaca Bear ($65) made from natural alpaca fiber, a Mama Bear Drum ($27)

for the budding musician and, for the aspiring chef, the Moulin Roty Baking Set ($72). 3910 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.426.9391, additional location at shopyolk.com English Rabbit stocks a range of boutique labels, including LA Made pieces. It also functions as a top-to-toe stylist and concierge service for bespoke kids gifting if you need help stat. 9412 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.888.1875, englishrabbit.com

/ ART & DECOR / Specializing in one-of-a-kind gifts, The Broad’s gift shop sells exclusive limited-edition, framed JeanMichel Basquiat prints (sold as a set of four with certificate of authenticity and portfolio, $70,000); Takashi Murakami Flower Ball tees ($30); and spe-

cial collaboration jewelry pieces by designer Melody Ehsani—the “Sun Greeting” Swarovski bracelet ($45) is a favorite. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6250, thebroad.org Winter may bring big waves, but why not cozy up indoors with a touch of the California surf?

Manhattan Beach-based Strand Boards crafts chandeliers, coffee tables, benches and stand-alone showers, all from real surfboards, with customizable options. Available online at strandboards.com In partnership with the Mayor’s Office of Economic Development, LA Original celebrates the city’s creativity and has collaborated with more than 50 Los Angeles artists and makers on original works. Look for the LA Original x Janel Foo Glassworks Sunset Suncatcher

($78) and LA Original Trays by Pauline Wolstencroft ($160) at its LAX stores before you jet out of town. Terminal 1 (Southwest Airlines) and Terminal 4 (Tom Bradley International Terminal), Los Angeles International Airport, 1 World Way, L.A., laoriginal.com Hikers and nature lovers, take note: In support of the state’s parks, Parks Project and California State Parks Foundation have teamed up on a limitededition “State Parks of California” collection consisting of California-centric graphic tees, a fleece sweatshirt, hat, ceramic mug and poster. Available online at parksproject.us/calparks

/ BOOKS / Wild LA: Explore the Amazing Nature in and Around Los Angeles, the first book produced by the Natural History Museum WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 15

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of Los Angeles County, is equal parts natural history, field guide and trip planner. Day trips detail where natural wonders can be experienced on hiking trails and in public parks. 900 W. Exposition Blvd., L.A., 213.763.3466, nhm.org The founders of Poketo push creative boundaries not only in their artful shop and project space, but also in their new book.

Creative Spaces: People, Home and Studios to Inspire is a “guided tour” chronicling 23 visionaries’ worlds. Row DTLA, 777 S. Alameda St., #174, downtown, 213.372.5686, additional location at poketo.com Within its pages, The Musso & Frank Grill traces the evolution of the 100-year-old legendary Hollywood restaurant and explores its status as a local icon by telling stories about famous patrons and the institution’s famous martini— and sharing beloved recipes.

6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788, mussoandfrank.com Surprise the bibliophile who has everything with a 1925 first

edition of F. Scott Fitzgerald’s The Great Gatsby ($3,950), available at Whitmore Rare Books in Old Pasadena. 121 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.714.

7720, whitmorerarebooks.com

/ FOOD & DRINK / Chocolatier Valerie Gordon’s Valerie Confections is offering a plethora of festive goodies for the holiday season. We love the Peppermint Bark ($20), prepared with organic mint leaves and housemade candy; the Holiday Truffle Assortment ($55); and Eggnog Petits Fours with nutmeg butter cake and bourbon ganache ($60). 3364 W. 1st St., L.A., 213.739.8149, additional café location at valerieconfections.com Eataly welcomes the holidays with chef and cookbook author Lidia Bastianich, whose eponymous gift basket ($79.99) highlights high-quality sauces, pasta and her My American Dream book. Another wonderful option is the “5-Star Chef” basket ($299.99), inspired by Michelin-

100% tea-based Better Booch.

New to its flavor spectrum is Hola Horchata, although yogis are partial to the immune-boosting, adaptogenic Golden Pear.

Available at Groundwork Coffee Co., 811 Traction Ave., downtown, 213.626.6060; betterbooch.com Actor Walton Goggins and Hollywood cinematographer Matthew Alper teamed to create Mulholland Distilling, whose gluten-free New World Gin ($26.99) made from non-GMO corn is distilled with botanicals of cucumber, lavender and lime.

Available at Silverlake Wine, 2395 Glendale Blvd., L.A., 323.662.9024; mulhollanddistilling.com For barman flair, David King and Matt Bostick of B&K Classic Cocktails have handcrafted three premium bottled cocktails—a Manhattan, Daiquiri and OldFashioned—to ensure party hosts always have the drinks table sorted. Available at Wally’s Beverly Hills, 447 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.475.3540; bkclassiccocktails.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY TIMBER PRESS; COURTESY MULHOLLAND DISTILLING; HANSNI THADHANI; COURTESY YOLK; COURTESY CHARLOTTETILBURY.COM; COURTESY VALERIE CONFECTIONS

Clockwise from top left: The Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County’s Wild LA: Explore the Amazing Nature in and Around Los Angeles; Mulholland Distilling’s New World Gin; a surfboard coffee table from Strand Boards; Yolk’s Mama Bear Drum; Charlotte Tilbury’s Mini Hot Lips; Valerie Confections’ Eggnog Petits Fours

recognized chef Massimo Bottura, which gathers black truffle carpaccio, chocolate tortellini, Bottura’s Bread Is Gold book and more. Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 213.310.8000, eataly.com Carnivorous home cooks will appreciate dry-aged, prime Holstein steaks by Flannery Beef, run by a father-daughter duo and beloved by acclaimed chefs including David Chang (Majordomo), Joshua Skenes (Angler) and Jeremy Fox (Rustic Canyon). Send a gift box directly via flannerybeef.com.

Local Caffe Luxxe recently started offering its own version of the world’s rarest and most sought-after coffee varietal: the single-origin Panama Gesha.

Treat the coffee expert in your life to a canister of the one-ofa-kind coffee for home brewing ($42). 925 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.394.2222, additional locations at caffeluxxe.com Your health-obsessed bud will love L.A.-made raw, vegan and

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LOS ANGELES

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: COURTESY TIMBER PRESS; COURTESY MULHOLLAND DISTILLING; HANSNI THADHANI; COURTESY YOLK; COURTESY CHARLOTTE TILBURY; COURTESY VALERIE CONFECTIONS

B E V E R L Y

C E N T E R Shop the best in luxury, contemporary and fast-fashion favorites and dine out at one of our chef-driven restaurants or fast-casual eateries.

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GLOBAL GOURMET THERE IS A QUINTESSENTIAL L.A. VIBE TO THE LOCAL DINING SCENE, BUT IT DRAWS INSPIRATION FROM AROUND THE GLOBE.

by ROGER GRODY

THE CASE FOR LOS ANGELES BEING THE MOST CULTURALLY DIVERSE metropolis, eclipsing New York or Miami, is compelling, given its location on the threshold of Latin America and its status as a gateway to the Pacific Rim. With the largest Armenian, Korean and Filipino populations in the U.S. and a hundred other significant ethnic communities, the personality of Greater L.A. is shaped by the entire planet. So is the city’s cuisine, and the restaurants presented herein offer a trip around the world without driving to the airport.

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Baba au rhum, made tableside at Pasjoli.

Opposite, from top: A spread of dishes at Ma’am Sir; bread service at Da Lat Rose

PARIS, FRANCE Chef Dave Beran, formerly of Chicago’s Michelin three-star Alinea, scored a Michelin star of his own at his first SoCal restaurant, Dialogue, and has followed it up with the much-anticipated Pasjoli. Inspired by Parisian markets, the cuisine is a refined take on bistro fare—think turbot meunière and the classic dish of pressed duck—all presented with a sense of French artistry. Finales include soufflé or tarte au citron. Sophisticated but not stuffy, the open-kitchen dining room represents a new French Revolution in L.A. 2732 Main St., Santa Monica, 424.330.0020, pasjoli.com

CHRISTIAN SEEL. OPPOSITE, FROM TOP: COURTESY FRIED CHICKEN SANDWICH STUDIOS; COURTESY DA LAT ROSE

AMALFI COAST, ITALY Only in L.A. can restaurants housed in shopping malls be among the best in the city, and Osteria Cal Mare—a handsome aqua-accented dining establishment from chefs Michael Mina and Adam Sobel in the newly renovated Beverly Center—attracts serious diners. As the name implies, Cal Mare applies a uniquely Cal-Italian perspective to the bounty of the sea, and even fresh burrata can be topped with caviar. Lobster bucatini is enlivened with Calabrian chile, while squid-ink tagliatelle arrives with mussels and saffron crema. As one might expect from prolific celebrity chef Mina, the wine list here is excellent, showcasing every corner of Italy and beyond. p. 59

VALENCIA, SPAIN Chef Teresa Montaño is inspired by her love of Valencia, the birthplace of paella, and she brings that passion to her Highland Park restaurant, Otoño. Sit at the bar beneath a graffiti mural by Valencia street artists PichiAvo, or huddle at a cozy table to enjoy tapas like croquetas de jamón, melt-in-yourmouth hand-cut jamón ibérico or refreshing chilled almond soup. The paellas have a bit of socarrat (the crispy rice at the bottom of the pan that screams authenticity), and the squid-ink-blackened version with scallops, chorizo and lemon cream is particularly memorable. Wash it down with wines from Rioja, Mallorca or the Canary Islands, then finish with crema catalana. 5715 N. Figueroa St., L.A., 323.474.6624, otonorestaurant.com

ATHENS, GREECE Mediterranean-spirited Le Grand is one of the best-looking restaurants in downtown L.A.,

an indoor-outdoor setting where a laid-back attitude is infused with a healthy splash of glamour. Alex and Chris Manos (executive chef and chef de cuisine, respectively) are Athens natives who love celebrating Greek culinary traditions, but their fine-dining experience results in innovative touches and artful presentations. In addition to traditional items like spanakopita, the Manos brothers excel with seafood, so starters like branzino ceviche with Greek yogurt and Santoriniinspired octopus may precede whole smoked and roasted red sea bream or scallops. Meat lovers can find a nice charcuterie board and a tomahawk rib-eye. 707 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.303.2535, legrand-restaurant.com

TEL AVIV, ISRAEL A modern approach to Middle Eastern cuisine is currently trending across the country, and Jaffa, named after Tel Aviv’s oldest neighborhood, delivers that to L.A. diners. Veteran L.A. chef Anne Conness brings her finesse to Israeli/Mediterranean dishes without abandoning their Old World authenticity. Start with classic hummus with varied toppings and house-baked pita bread, or contemporary twists like sweet-potato or avocado-lime hummus. Entrées include fig-glazed salmon with saffron labneh, Moroccan-spiced roasted chicken and lamb couscous, which are washed down by Israeli wines or cocktails like

the Dead Sea Mule. The energy of the restaurant’s namesake neighborhood is found in a bustling, light-filled space on 3rd Street, while the newer Palms location boasts an expansive patio. 8048 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.433.4978; 10306 Venice Blvd., L.A., 424.298.8180, jaffa.la

MANILA, PHILIPPINES Despite L.A.’s massive Filipino community, the food of the Philippines has long been overlooked in favor of other Asian cuisines. Suddenly, however, Filipino cooking is all the rage, and at Silver Lake’s Ma’am Sir, chef/owner Charles Olalia (former executive chef at Patina) brings refined technique to his native Filipino traditions. The chef elevates lumpia (small spring rolls) by filling them with shrimp mousse and lardo sausage before topping them with uni. He also offers hearty pork-belly lechón, pancit noodles with crab, and oxtail kare kare, accompanied by cocktails infused with Filipino ingredients. 4330 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.741.8371, maamsirla.com

HO CHI MINH CITY, VIETNAM Helene An, the matriarch of Vietnamese cooking in L.A., has created a new fine-dining venue upstairs from her celebrity-favored Crustacean in Beverly Hills. The intimate Da Lat Rose offers an elaborate 12-course tasting menu ($225) that provides an extra degree of refinement and drama to Vietnamese WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 19

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ing guests. Beverages range from beer and wine to CBD-enhanced smoothies. 8820 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 424.551.3930, bondiharvest.com

TIJUANA, MEXICO

cooking. A unique bread service at the start of the meal includes pâté, porchetta and pickled vegetables—all the makings of a classic banh mi sandwich. Every dish is personally significant to the renowned chef—the menu is dubbed her “gastrobiography”—and the parade of courses includes king crab bánh khot (a small mung bean pancake); a wagyu bò kho tamale; and An’s signature garlic noodles, topped here with uni, 24-karat gold and shaved truffles. Spring for the cocktail pairing, a procession of inventive, complementary drinks presented in delightful vessels. 466 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.998.7919, dalatrosebh.com

BEIJING, CHINA Culver City’s Ms Chi Cafe is a personal project of Top Chef runner-up Shirley Chung and husband Jimmy Lee. She was born in Beijing but creates a novel cuisine in which traditional Chinese techniques are applied to familiar American concepts. The chef—who learned the business from the likes of Thomas Keller, Guy Savoy and José Andrés—offers engaging items like cheeseburger pot stickers with tomato-bacon jam, encapsulating the flavors of an all-American burger in a Chinese dumpling. Also available are a pastrami-filled scallion-pancake sandwich and hedgehogshaped bao filled with chocolate. 3829 Main St., Culver City, 424.361.5225, mschicafe.com

TOKYO, JAPAN While Beverly Hills’ Urasawa still ranks as Greater L.A.’s most expensive sushi bar, Michelin two-star Sushi Ginza Onodera is not far behind. The omakase experience at the Tokyo import starts at $300, and the space’s minimalism translates not to austerity but exclusivity. The traditional edomae sushi (a Tokyo style in which the fish has been marinated and briefly aged) is made with fish from Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market and rice from Japan’s Niigata Prefecture. The procession of edible art presented at Sushi Ginza Onodera’s sanded hinoki bar is likely to include toro, uni chawanmushi (custard) with caviar, hairy crab, scallops and fresh uni from the waters of Hokkaido. 609 La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.433.4817, sushiginzaonoderala.com

SYDNEY, AUSTRALIA After initial success in Santa Monica, Aussie chef/restaurateur Guy Turland has opened a new, more upscale location of his Bondi Harvest at Culver City’s Platform development. This new morning-till-night Bondi is casual but cool, a laid-back setting with lots of white marble, blue accents and beachy images. The mostly healthy fare includes items like Parmesan scrambled eggs and Halloumiavocado toast, as well as barbecued prawns with salsa verde butter and even a 32-ounce Australian wagyu tomahawk steak for splurg-

LIMA, PERU The indoor-outdoor design of West Hollywood restaurant Rosaliné features a galleria-like greenhouse with hanging exotic plants. Shareable small plates from high-flying Peruvian chef Ricardo Zarate include an entire menu from the restaurant’s ceviche bar and fried Amazonian paiche. Among larger plates are Zarate’s flavorful take on Peru’s signature dish of lomo saltado, whole branzino and arroz con mariscos with shrimp, scallops, clams and uni. Peruvian cuisine is influenced by a diverse array of cultures, from Portuguese to Japanese, and Zarate succeeds in translating it all into an exciting, contemporary experience. p. 54

SÃO PAULO, BRAZIL Two of Brazil’s greatest imports are the caipirinha (its signature cachaça cocktail) and the churrascaria, a steakhouse offering an endless supply of grilled meats carved tableside from sword-like spits. Downtown’s H&H Brazilian Steakhouse offers about 15 different meats— think picanha (Brazilian sirloin cap), filet mignon, leg of lamb and pork ribs. Caipirinhas and South American wines are on offer, as well as traditional Brazilian desserts like a dulce de leche-filled pastel (empanada) or creme de papaya (good for digestion after a big feast).

Wood and marble finishes deliver a handsome steakhouse ambiance. 518 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.266.8103, hhsteakhouse.com

COURTESY LE GRAND

The dining room at Le Grand

Tijuana has an underappreciated food scene, overshadowed by Oaxaca’s soulfulness, Mexico City’s refinement and the resort cities’ seafood. Like Tijuana, Tacos 1986 celebrates unpretentious street food, which precisely reflects the establishment’s own origins. Originally a cult-worthy Hollywood taco shack—you can still find it at Smorgasburg—Tacos 1986 has been transformed into a permanent restaurant in DTLA. The TJ-style tacos include simple carne asada, adobada (pork marinated in red chile sauce) and chicken, while quesadillas, mulitas (a taco-quesadilla hybrid) and vampiros (more like a tostada) are also popular. 609 S. Spring St., downtown, tacos1986.com

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EXPLORE THE CITY Los Angeles is the most populous county in the nation and among the most culturally diverse. Its 4,000 square miles encompass dozens of cities and more than 200 neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. The pages that follow will guide you through the most visited among them, pointing out starring attractions and uncovering hidden gems along the way.

CITY TOURS AT A

GLANCE

Beverly Hills Santa Monica West Hollywood Hollywood Downtown Pasadena South Bay

SANTA MONICA PIER, PHOTO BY LISA CORSON

The Valley

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Beverly Hills BEVERLY HILLS LOOMS LARGE IN POP CULTURE AS A POSH LOCALE HOME TO THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS ZIP CODE.

The launch of Beverly Hills’ glamorous reputation dates to the early 20th century, when the opening of the Beverly Hills Hotel ushered in a frenzy of movie-star mansion-building in the hills north of Sunset Boulevard. Today, the population of some 35,000 is more socioeconomically diverse than its depiction on TV and in movies might suggest.

Nonetheless, the triumvirate of Beverly Hills, Holmby Hills and Bel-Air still attracts famous and fabulously wealthy residents. Hop on the Beverly Hills Trolley Tour, or book with Starline Tours to see notable homes in the area, along with other local landmarks packed into the city’s 5 square miles.

Among the more storied and oft-filmed estates nestled in the hills is the 19th-century English Revival-style Greystone Mansion, which has appeared in The Big Lebowski and Gilmore Girls.

Its graceful city-owned grounds are open for strolling.

RODEO DRIVE + GOLDEN TRIANGLE From Greystone, head west on Sunset Boulevard, then hang on to your wallet as you turn south onto Rodeo Drive. After passing through a tony residential neighborhood, you enter the shopping district known as the Golden Triangle, bounded by Santa Monica and Wilshire boulevards and Canon Drive. MCM Worldwide, Celine and Balenciaga recently debuted new or renovated flagships on Rodeo, reminding shoppers that 90210 is still the most prestigious ZIP code in the States. Ascend the Italian-esque side street to fineart destination Galerie Michael and Tiffany & Co., perched atop Two Rodeo. Pause for the quintessential Beverly Hills snapshot before continuing on to the Beverly Wilshire, A Four Seasons Hotel (of Pretty Woman fame) at the south end of Rodeo Drive.

Continuing west, pass Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue and Barneys New York, the reigning luxury retail titans along this

stretch of Wilshire. At Santa Monica Boulevard, you hit the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills, which boasts dining concepts by chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten, and beside it, the Beverly Hilton hotel, which rolls out thousands of square feet of red carpet annually to host the Golden Globe Awards.

THE INDUSTRY + THE ARTS Beverly Hills isn’t all shopping sprees and gated estates: Talent agencies William Morris Endeavor and United Talent Agency are just two of the entertainment

businesses based here. Rub shoulders with the powerlunchers at E. Baldi, La Scala or Wolfgang Puck’s legendary Spago on Canon Drive. The city’s cultural treasure troves include the Paley Center for Media and the Samuel Goldwyn Theater at the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences, both of which hold screenings. Even more cultural programming can be found at the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, which transformed the historic Beverly Hills Post Office into an entertainment destination.

CENTURY CITY GREAT FIND

All in the Family >Second-generation chocolatiers Marc and Phil Covitz grew up at their mother’s Teuscher Chocolates, and they recently transformed it into andSons Chocolatiers, bringing on pastry chef Kriss Harvey to craft the confections. Head to the sunny Nate Berkus-designed shop for European-style enrobed chocolates and modern, hand-painted pieces. 9548 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.2776, and-sons.com

Heading west from Beverly Hills on Santa Monica Boulevard, you enter the 0.3-square-mile modern acropolis of Century City. ICM Partners and Creative Artists Agency are located here, as are the Fox Studios lot and countless legal, financial, entertainment and hospitality firms. But those outside the biz

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: EDWIN SANTIAGO (2); COURTESY WALLIS ANNENBERG CENTER FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS. BOTTOM LEFT: CHRIS DIBBLE; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY LADURÉE

THE MANSIONS

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Shopping on Canon Drive in Beverly Hills; House of Bijan on Rodeo Drive; the Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts

INSIDER TIPS

The Sweet Life Beverly Hills boasts beaucoup European-style patisseries and cafés.

Ladurée

Chaumont 143 S. Beverly Drive, 310.550.5510

L’Tarte Boutique Café 200 S. Beverly Drive, 424.777.0033

Ladurée 311 N. Beverly Drive, 310.623.1100

La Provence Patisserie & Café 8950 W. Olympic Blvd., 310.888.8833

Le Mervetty 319 N. Canon Drive, 310.804.9409

Le Pain Quotidien 9630 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.859.1100

’Lette Macarons 9466 Charleville Blvd., 310.275.0023

Oro Caffé 9559 S. Santa Monica Blvd., 310.888.8714

Tarte Tatin Bakery & Café 200 S. Beverly Drive, 424.777.0033 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 23

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New in Town Bianca Bakery

This charming eatery and bakery offers Italian, Argentine and French flavors at Platform. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City, 424.603.4353

La Pasta Fresca

Eataly’s newest addition is serving up made-toorder plates of housemade pasta at Westfield Century City. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 213.310.8000

Messika

Platform in Culver City

won’t be excluded. Past Avenue of the Stars, you hit the upscale Westfield Century City shopping center, which unveiled dozens of new boutiques and eateries after a dramatic redevelopment in 2017. Nearby on Constellation Boulevard, epicures are drawn to Tom Colicchio’s Craft and Hinoki & the Bird, the latter of which is in the residential complex the Century. (Candy Spelling claims the top two floors.) The Annenberg Space for Photography displays cutting-edge exhibits of digital and print photography.

UCLA A few miles northwest of Century City is the University of California, Los Angeles, one of the top public universities in the country. Visitors are welcome at several university attractions, including the Fowler Museum at UCLA and the outdoor Franklin D. Murphy Sculpture Garden on

the north campus, the planetarium on the south campus and the 7.5-acre Mildred E. Mathias Botanical Gardens. The free Hammer Museum is nearby and houses impressionist paintings and cutting-edge contemporary exhibitions. Paid parking is available in UCLA lots and structures throughout the 419-acre campus.

WESTWOOD VILLAGE Just south of the campus, the pedestrian-friendly Westwood Village features independent shops and cafés among its Mediterranean Revival and art deco buildings, as well as two landmark movie theaters at Broxton and Weyburn avenues: the 1936 marquee-wrapped Bruin theater and the Fox theater across the street. Built circa 1931, the Fox is a favorite for movie premieres and thus is prime star-spotting territory. Another don’t-miss venue

is the award-winning Geffen Playhouse, located on Le Conte Avenue in one of the oldest buildings in Westwood.

CULVER CITY Covering 5 square miles southeast of Westwood, Culver City boasts a thriving downtown with trendy bars and restaurants. The Kirk Douglas Theatre and the Ivy Substation, home to the Actors’ Gang, bookend the downtown area and stage live productions throughout the year. As you travel east on Washington Boulevard, don’t miss the Helms Bakery complex, which contains a dozen high-end furniture showrooms.

Moving along Washington, the scene-y Arts District has more than 20 art galleries and exhibition spaces clustered along Washington and La Cienega boulevards. Near the intersection of Washington and National boulevards is the ultra-hip

Platform lifestyle complex, plus a stop on the Expo Line, a Metro light rail that, thanks to a recent expansion, connects downtown L.A. and Santa Monica.

Hollywood gets all the attention, but it’s Culver City whose city seal proclaims it “The Heart of Screenland.” In 1915, Ince/ Triangle Studios opened on Washington; in 1924, the site became Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer Studios. Classics including Singin’ in the Rain and The Wizard of Oz would eventually be filmed on its movie lots. (News reports of the time indicate that the “Munchkins” partied hard during their stay at the Culver Hotel.) Today, Culver City’s screen culture is still going strong, and the site is home to Sony Pictures Studios, where such hits as Wheel of Fortune and Jeopardy! are taped.

Experience Culver City’s screen heritage by taking the Sony Pictures Studio Tour.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 53. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF BEVERLY HILLS, SEE PAGE 76.

KATIE GIBBS

Also at Westfield Century City, French fine jewelry house Messika has partnered with Westime to open its first stand-alone store in the U.S. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., Level 1, L.A., 310.772.0988

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Santa Monica THE COASTAL CITY’S BUSTLING DOWNTOWN, BEACH AND PIER ATTRACT MILLIONS OF VISITORS PER YEAR.

Third Street Promenade, three pedestrian-only blocks on 3rd Street between Broadway and Wilshire Boulevard, perpetually teems with people. Visitors can hit dozens of boutiques, watch movies at two cinemas and gawk at the myriad street artists.

If they don’t refuel at the many eateries along the Promenade, visitors can venture to the surrounding blocks to the Independence or the Misfit and enjoy drinks at the Bungalow or the many pubs, such as Ye Olde King’s Head, that hint at Santa Monica’s large population of British expats.

Anchoring the promenade at Broadway is Santa Monica Place, a beautiful open-air shopping center with Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s, 80 boutiques, ArcLight Cinemas and the toplevel Dining Deck. Steps away is the new western terminus of the Metro Expo Line, which connects Santa Monica by light rail to downtown Los Angeles.

Santa Monica Pier, built in

1909, is at the end of Colorado Avenue and features Pacific Park, a mini amusement park with food stands and rides, including a solar-powered, LED-lit Ferris wheel.

MAIN STREET + MONTANA AVENUE Compared with the hustle and bustle of Third Street Promenade, Montana Avenue is downright tranquil. Between 6th and 17th streets are plenty of fashionable boutiques and beauty destinations, including Moondance, Clare V. and Malin+Goetz.

Father’s Office is known for its burgers, and Sweet Lady Jane is famous for its cakes.

Just minutes south of downtown Santa Monica, Main Street exudes a beachy, upscale vibe.

The long stretch between Pico Boulevard and Rose Avenue contains a number of galleries, pubs, coffeehouses and restaurants, plus shops such as Lost & Found and Planet Blue. The California Heritage Museum is in a transplanted Victorian-era

home, as is the aptly named Victorian, adjacent to the museum, which features a cool downstairs speakeasy, Basement Tavern.

now a stop on the Expo Line— has emerged as a hub for L.A.’s creative community. It’s home to about 30 galleries and a café.

THE ARTS

MALIBU

Visitors can take in plays at Main Street’s Edgemar Center for the Arts, housed in a structure designed by Frank Gehry. An even wider variety of entertainment is at the Broad Stage, Santa Monica College’s 499-seat performing-arts, film, dance and theater venue.

On Michigan Avenue, the Bergamot Station arts center—

A few miles north of Santa Monica on Pacific Coast Highway is Malibu. Formerly known as Rancho Malibu, Malibu’s land was once so coveted that May K. Rindge, who took ownership of it in 1905 after the death of her scion husband, used armed guards to defend it from trespassers. In the 1920s, Rindge’s hefty legal bills, racked up from fighting developers, forced her to invite stars to live in Malibu Colony, and the legacy of Malibu as celebrityhome central continues today.

Many of Malibu’s best destinations are visible from PCH, including renowned restaurants with ocean views, from the casual (Malibu Seafood) to the upscale (Nobu Malibu). Adjacent to the Malibu Lagoon and

GREAT FIND

Treasure Trove >David Beckham and Michelle Obama are among the fans of luxury jewelry brand Hoorsenbuhs, whose name nods to a Dutch trading ship sailed by founder/designer Robert Keith’s forebears. Step aboard the brand’s flagship retail store/headquarters to shop for eyewear, lifestyle and new apparel lines, and bold, sculptural pieces sporting a tri-link motif. 2217 Main St., Santa Monica, 888.692.2997, hoorsenbuhs.com

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: NATALIA MACHEDA/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; LISA CORSON; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY HOORSENBUHS; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY CARBON38

THIRD STREET + THE PIER

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: Pacific Park at the Santa Monica Pier; the Italian-esque Venice Canal Historic District; open-air shopping center Santa Monica Place

INSIDER TIPS

Fit & Fine Sweat in style wearing the latest from these fitness-apparel shops.

Carbon38

ALO Yoga 1422 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 424.252.2660 and Palisades Village, 1060 Swarthmore Ave., L.A., 424.223.5707

Athleta 1318 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.3040

Avocado 1348 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.452.1968 and 1239 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 424.744.7747

Carbon38 Palisades Village, 15273 Palisades Village Lane, L.A., 310.300.3806

Sweaty Betty 1308 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, 310.260.4998 and 1112 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.392.3675

Vimmia 11677 San Vicente Blvd., Suite 116, Brentwood, 424.208.3532 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 27

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New Newin Town

In Town

American Beauty

High-quality meats are grilled over an almond-wood fire at this dinner spot inspired by classic American steakhouses. 425 Rose Ave., Venice, 310.412.0075

Everlane

The online-born brand known for comfy basics recently opened its third brick-and-mortar shop on Venice’s coolest stretch. 1101 Abbot Kinney Blvd., L.A., 424.317.4890

Fuku

You can try Momofuku chef David Chang’s fried chicken sandwiches at his new stall at the Gallery Food Hall’s Social-eats. 1315 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, eatfuku.com

Bird Sanctuary, the Adamson House is filled with historic tile. The celebrity-frequented Malibu Country Mart serves as the area’s town square.

Together with the adjacent Malibu Village and Malibu Lumber Yard, there are plenty of shops and restaurants for whiling away an afternoon.

Inland is wine country, where you can sample the local vino (and feed a giraffe!) at Malibu Wine Safari.

TOPANGA + PACIFIC PALISADES In the 1960s, hippies and musicians such as Neil Young hid out in idyllic Topanga, accessible by Topanga Canyon Boulevard from Pacific Coast Highway. Removed from urban activity, it retains its bohemian vibe and independently owned businesses. Hiking trails allow visitors to bask in Topanga’s woodsy beauty, and

restaurants such as Inn of the Seventh Ray accommodate creekside dining.

There’s more than initially meets the eye in seemingly sleepy, family-friendly Pacific Palisades. Upscale momand-pop shops can be found between Via de la Paz and Monument Street near Sunset Boulevard. Palisades Village—from the developer of The Grove and The Americana at Brand—recently opened with over 40 uniquely curated boutiques. The Self-Realization Fellowship Lake Shrine on Sunset is a 10-acre oasis with a koiand swan-filled lake. The crown jewel of the Palisades is the Getty Villa. Styled as a Julius Caesar-era villa, it’s filled with Greco-Roman antiquities.

VENICE Abbot Kinney won in a coin toss the land that would become

Venice. He sought to develop it as an American version of the Italian city; the canals are still there, lined with multimilliondollar bungalows. His namesake Abbot Kinney Boulevard is Venice’s coolest section, where Gjelina, Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea and boutiques such as Bazar, Heist and Huset are the main attractions. Rose Avenue is also coming up, thanks to the emergence of hot restaurants such as reborn Rose CaféRestaurant and Café Gratitude, plus a smattering of hip shops including Parachute. Visitors strolling Ocean Front Walk get an eyeful, what with performers, vendors and Muscle Beach bodybuilders.

BRENTWOOD Marilyn Monroe once called this affluent enclave northeast of Santa Monica home; it remains a favorite celebrity stomping

ground. San Vicente Boulevard functions as the neighborhood’s main street, with independent shops, bakeries, cafés and restaurants. The Brentwood Country Mart, a charming open-air shopping center built in 1948, keeps retail offerings upscale.

The area’s biggest draw is the Getty Center, the hilltop museum that boasts J. Paul Getty’s spectacular art collection and a beautiful Central Garden.

MARINA DEL REY Marina del Rey’s main attraction is the marina, the largest man-made small-craft harbor in the world. Restaurants such as Cast & Plow and Cafe del Rey are positioned to take advantage of the views, and at the New England-style Fisherman’s Village, boat-rental and cruise companies such as Hornblower offer visitors assorted ways to get out on the water.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 53. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF SANTA MONICA, SEE PAGE 76.

LISA CORSON, USED BY PERMISSION OF THE J. PAUL GETTY TRUST

The Central Garden, created by artist Robert Irwin, at the Getty Center

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L.A.’S FAVORITE SHOPPING & DINING DESTINATION SINCE 1934 SHOPPING

Dozens of family-owned, eclectic stores plus well-known high fashion brands

DINING

Gourmet and casual restaurants and eateries serving cuisine from around the world

SPECIALTY FOOD PURVEYORS

Many artisan grocers and specialty food merchants offering produce, bakery products, wine & cheese, handmade chocolates, ice cream and much more Open daily— adjacent to The Grove, Museum Row, Beverly Hills & Hollywood

6333 W. THIRD ST. • LOS ANGELES • 323.933.9211 FARMERSMARKETLA.COM • #FARMERSMARKETLA Insta

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

West Hollywood LOCALS AND TOURISTS ALIKE FLOCK TO WEHO’S ART GALLERIES, BOUTIQUES, RESTAURANTS AND NIGHTCLUBS.

After dark, this iconic strip of Sunset Boulevard between Doheny Drive and Crescent Heights Boulevard becomes one of the hottest stretches of asphalt in L.A. County. The club scene here rocks with legendary establishments like the Roxy, the Whisky a Go Go and the Viper Room, which have a long history of hosting performances by rock ‘n’ roll’s finest. Newer nightclubs include Rock & Reilly’s and 1 OAK. The Comedy Store continues to showcase leading names and emerging stars in stand-up, and restaurants such as Tesse and Boa Steakhouse offer upscale fare. During the day, boutiques such as beloved Book Soup draw traffic.

Hotels are an integral part of the Sunset Strip scene. Chateau Marmont, a glorious and notorious celebrity hangout throughout the decades, remains a discreet local getaway. At the Sunset Tower Hotel, Bugsy Siegel’s former suite has been converted into the Tower Bar.

And across the street, the property once known as “Riot Hyatt,” thanks to overzealous guests like Led Zeppelin, the Rolling Stones and Guns N’ Roses, is now the chic Andaz West Hollywood.

SUNSET PLAZA Sunset Plaza, between La Cienega and San Vicente boulevards on Sunset Boulevard, is a collection of tony shops and bistros with an international flavor and free parking—a novelty in this neighborhood. This is the city’s eurozone, where you’re apt to hear more French and Italian than Valley girl. For up-to-the-minute fashion, check out Wildfox, Zadig & Voltaire or either of the two H. Lorenzo shops. Pamper yourself with a facial at Ole Henriksen Face/ Body Spa, a blowout at Drybar or a makeover at Blushington. Then, refuel at Obicà Mozzarella Bar or Le Petit Four.

MELROSE AVENUE Melrose Avenue has become virtually synonymous with

trendiness, and new expressions in fashion, art and food continue to percolate up and down this street that has multiple personalities. One part of Melrose, east of Fairfax Avenue, has a mix of indie boutiques, cafés, tattoo parlors and vintage shops.

Stores such as Wasteland have wild facades and vibrant signage that add energy to the scene.

Farther west, Melrose becomes très sophistiqué, showcasing upscale tastes at Assembly, Kelly Wearstler and Vivienne Westwood. Just off Melrose is the fashionable three-block

GREAT FIND

Cutting Edge >Master stylist Jon Reyman and colorist Christine Thompson’s salon Spoke & Weal boasts eight locations nationwide. Reyman’s dry-cutting technique promises quicker, softer, longer-lasting cuts. See for yourself at the L.A. outpost, which just debuted a major makeover that raised the ceiling, brought in more natural light and nearly doubled the salon’s footprint. 8211 W. 3rd St., 323.591.0979, L.A., spokeandweal.com

stretch of Melrose Place, where Bentleys line up at chic Nine Zero One salon and cutting-edge boutiques such as Irene Neuwirth, Mansur Gavriel and the Apartment by the Line.

WEST HOLLYWOOD DESIGN DISTRICT Melrose Avenue’s flourishing art, fashion and design district runs along the pedestrian-friendly retail corridors of Melrose and Beverly and Robertson boulevards. Among its offerings are a new Acne Studios flagship and the first freestanding RH Modern Gallery on Melrose Avenue. The district’s hub is the Pacific Design Center complex— monolithic blue, green and red buildings designed by celebrated architect César Pelli—which houses more than 130 showrooms catering to professional designers and luxury-home owners. Nearby are upscale dining options including Cecconi’s, Craig’s and Gracias Madre.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY BEVERLY CENTER; DALE BERMAN; COURTESY ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET. BOTTOM LEFT: EMMA FEIL; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY VISIT WEST HOLLYWOOD

SUNSET STRIP

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The luxury wing at the recently remodeled Beverly Center; the Petersen Automotive Museum; a vendor at the Original Farmers Market

INSIDER TIPS

Selfie Service Strike a pose in front of the area’s oh-so’grammable backdrops.

Michael Turchin’s Dirty Pop mural

Alfred in the Alley 8509 Melrose Place, L.A.

Chris Burden’s Urban Light at LACMA 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A.

Colette Miller Angel Wings outside St. Regis Wine & Liquor 8401 W. 3rd St., L.A.

Hello mural at Carrera Cafe 8251 Melrose Ave., L.A.

Made in L.A. mural 8025 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood

Marisabel Bazan’s Dance of the Butterflies mural 621 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood

Michael Turchin’s Dirty Pop mural at Mondrian 8440 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood

Paul Smith’s Pink Wall 8221 Melrose Ave., L.A.

RETNA mural outside Craig’s 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 31

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New in Town

Chris Burden’s Urban Light at LACMA

Banh Oui

The Smorgasburg popup just opened a second permanent location to enjoy its banh mi sandwiches and baked goods. 6909 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.852.3944

Insomnia Cookies

The East Coast latenight dessert spot finally has an L.A. location, delivering warm cookies and ice cream. 8951 Santa Monica Blvd., Suite A, West Hollywood, 424.528.0204

Aeso AIR Alche The B Bene Blow Bund Clark Cred Dryb Face Le La Lione Mudb SkinS Spok Suga Swer Taboo Uvasu WOL

Lowell Cafe

WeHo is home to America’s first cannabis restaurant and lounge, a lush space where you can eat, drink and smoke cannabis. 1201 N. La Brea Ave., West Hollywood, 323.975.7676

ROBERTSON BOULEVARD Robertson Boulevard is no longer a paparazzi magnet, but it’s still home to shops that appeal to the modish set. Hit Chaser for vintage-inspired T-shirts, Peri.A for trend-driven looks and Kitson and Kitson Kids for L.A.-inspired gifts. A Chanel concept store and edgy multibrand boutique Curve illustrate the difference between Robertson Boulevard and more staid Rodeo Drive.

Between boutique-hopping, consider a cocktail at Bibo Ergo Sum or crab cakes on the picketfenced patio of Ivy restaurant, legendary for its celebrity clientele. The District by Hannah An and A.O.C., popular for power lunches, are just off Robertson.

FAIRFAX + MID-WILSHIRE L.A.’s Fairfax District and neighboring Mid-Wilshire are among the most culturally diverse neighborhoods in the Mid-City/ West Hollywood area. At Fairfax Avenue and Wilshire Boulevard is the Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA), a renowned facility with more than 100,000 works dating from the ancient period to today. Adjacent to LACMA is the famous La Brea Tar Pits and Museum, where the ice age comes alive.

Additional venues on this Museum Row include the renovated Petersen Automotive Museum and Craft Contemporary. South of the museums is a neighborhood known as Little Ethiopia, where traditional restaurants are located. To the museums’ east is the burgeoning District La Brea, a walkable stretch filled with dining spots like French

bistro République and La Brea Bakery and hip boutiques including American Rag Cie. One of the Fairfax District’s anchors is the Original Farmers Market, established in 1934, with more than 100 produce stalls, shops and eateries. There are spots to satisfy virtually any craving, including a wine bar, pizzerias, a stand with authentic Louisiana gumbo and a new location of Trejo’s Tacos. Adjacent and connected by a vintage trolley is The Grove, an outdoor, pedestrianonly shopping center. The Grove has the character of an oldfashioned village square, with stained-glass streetlamps and a central fountain. Nordstrom, a movie theater and stores such as American Girl Place, Apple and Charlotte Tilbury are joined by myriad restaurants including 189

by Dominique Ansel (inventor of the Cronut) and a Halo Top Scoop Shop.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 53. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF WEST HOLLYWOOD, SEE PAGES 76-77.

Belca Berri’ Blend Blues Carm Cleo El Ca Elect Four W Gelat Goal Grou JAFF Joan The L Magn Main Merc Planc 1 Qu Simp Socke Son o Swee Swee Toast Verve

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

Beverly Boulevard and West 3rd Street, major east-west streets running through West Hollywood, are filled with restaurants, design showrooms and boutiques from some of the hottest up-and-coming clothing and accessories designers. The two streets bracket the landmark eight-level Beverly Center, which just underwent a multimilliondollar renovation. Bloomingdale’s, Fendi, Gucci and Louis Vuitton boutiques are among the center’s more than 160 establishments.

On West 3rd Street east of Beverly Center, you’ll find favorite boutiques such as OK for design-oriented gifts, Pyrrha for handcrafted jewelry and Wittmore for contemporary menswear. Great dining options include Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo’s seafood spot, Son of a Gun, and modern Israeli restau-

rant Jaffa. On Beverly Boulevard, you can shop for high-end home decor and accessories at Garde and fragrances at Eric Buterbaugh Florals.

EDWIN SANTIAGO

BEVERLY + WEST 3RD

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3rdStree

With over 75 destination shops, acclaimed restaurants and independent specialty stores West 3rd Street is the most walkable dining and shopping district in the center of Los Angeles.

A WALKABLE DINING & SHOPPING DISTRICT “Between La Cienega and Fairfax”

@W3RDSTREET_LA

BEAUTY & FITNESS Aesop . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q AIR - Aerial Fitness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Alchemy 43 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S The Bar Method . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Benefit Cosmetics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Blow Me Away Blow Dry Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .G Bunda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F Clark Nova Salon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Credo Beauty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Drybar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Face Haus . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Le Labo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Lionel Renard . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J MudbuM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J SkinSense Wellness Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Spoke & Weal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G Sugared and Bronzed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Swerve Studio. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R Taboo Hair Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Uvasun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R WOLA Fitness . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U

KIDS Eggy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Lil Bit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Youth Academy of Dramatic Arts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J

QUALITY FOOD & BEVERAGE

THE ORLANDO HOTEL

MEN Douglas Fir . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Lot Stock and Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C M. Cohen Designs. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q 3 Wittmore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R

8030 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 658-5959

8384 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (800) 624-6835 theorlando.com

OPTICAL & SERVICES Dan Deutsch Optical Outlook. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Daniel William’s State Farm Insuranceq . . . . . . . . .T 2 Orlando Hotel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q uBreakiFix . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q

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8236 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 782-9791 shopwittmore.com

8315 West 3rd Street Los Angeles, CA 90048 (323) 424-4807 pyrrha.com

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CRESCENT HEIGHTS BOULEVARD

KILKEA DRIVE

LA JOLLA AVENUE

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WOMEN Alexis Bittar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C August . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Bead Boutique (+ Men) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Bedhead Pajamas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Elaine Kim . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C KFK Jewelers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Kinsley James Couture Bridal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F Lot Stock and Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C M. Cohen Designs (+ Men) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Mom’s the Word . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Monserat De Lucca . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Nathalie Seaver Boutique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q NFP New Form Perspective . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R noodle stories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Parliament . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Polkadots & Moonbeams . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C 4 Pyrrha (+ Men). . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Ragdoll LA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Raquel Allegra . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Shopaholic Sample Sales . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .T Wardrobe Department . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q William B. + Friends . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q

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PETS Vanderpump Dogs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S

KINGS ROAD

ORLANDO AVENUE

CROFT AVENUE

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD

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www.west3rdstreet.com

HOME & GIFTS Aero Shade Co Inc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Allan Jeffries Framing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Area . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . E Craft in America Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B Freehand Gallery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . B MUD Australia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R The Sill . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J Vitsoe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R

FOOD & DRINK Belcampo Meat Co . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K Berri’s Cafe on Third . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .P Blending Lab. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Bluestone Lane . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Carmela Ice Cream . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Cleo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q El Carmen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Electric Karma . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R Four Winters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K Gelataria Uli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .T Goal Sports Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Groundworks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . J JAFFA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Joan’s on Third. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q The Little Door . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S Magnolia Bakery. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . C Mainland Poke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Mercado . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Plancha Tacos . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . R 1 Quality Food & Beverage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .T Simplethings Restaurant. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Sockerbit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U Son of a Gun . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Q Sweetfin Poke . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K Sweetgreen . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K Toast Bakery Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G Verve Coffee Roasters . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . K

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Comprised of six connecting blocks between La Cienega Boulevard and Fairfax Avenue, West 3rd Street is just moments from The Grove, The Original Farmers Market, The Beverly Center and The Los Angeles County Museum of Art (LACMA).

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Hollywood HOLLYWOOD IS IN THE MIDST OF A NEW GOLDEN AGE, AND HIP LOS FELIZ AND SILVER LAKE SHARE THE LIMELIGHT.

Hollywood & Highland has been a catalyst for the rebirth of Hollywood Boulevard. Its Dolby Theatre is the home of the annual Academy Awards, and the central Babylon Court frames views of the iconic Hollywood sign (built in 1923 to advertise a housing development, the 45-foot-high letters originally read “Hollywoodland”). Other draws include Lucky Strike Live, dining spots and unique shops and boutiques. Next door to Hollywood & Highland is the TCL Chinese Theatre (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre), famous for its celebrity handand footprints embedded in the concrete out front.

SHOWTIME Just across the street from Hollywood & Highland is the ornate, lavishly illuminated El Capitan Theatre. Masterfully restored by Disney, it offers special presentations of the studio’s releases, combined with performances using an antique Wurlitzer pipe

organ and children-pleasing stage shows. Jimmy Kimmel Live! tapes in an ABC studio next door. The Egyptian Theatre— built in 1922 around the time that King Tut’s tomb was discovered—screens eclectic artsy and classic fare. The landmark Pantages Theatre regularly stages megahit musicals (such as The Book of Mormon and Hamilton), and the Hollywood Palladium has a rich history of showcasing top-notch musicians.

WALK OF FAME The sidewalks along 15 blocks of Hollywood Boulevard (La Brea Avenue to Gower Street) and three blocks of Vine Street (Yucca Street to Sunset Boulevard) are inlaid with the legendary brass-and-terrazzo stars honoring celebrities from the entertainment industry. More than 2,400 stars are enshrined beneath tourists’ feet, but the roster is not without its quirks— Pee-wee Herman has a star, but Clint Eastwood doesn’t. Marilyn Monroe’s star is steps from Hol-

lywood & Highland, and John Lennon’s is in front of the Capitol Records Building, the landmark structure designed to resemble a stack of records.

MUSEUMS, HOLLYWOOD-STYLE Hollywood has museums, but don’t expect to encounter Picasso or Monet. Next to TCL Chinese Theatre is Madame Tussauds Hollywood, filled with more than 100 wax figures ranging from legends like Clark Gable to contemporary stars including Taylor Swift and Lady Gaga. You

GREAT FIND

Love Your Selfie >It’s all about fun and fantasy at the Museum of Selfies, a pop-upturned-permanent attraction. We’re fans of the trippy tape-art installation by local artist Darel Carey, and visitors flock to the Upside Down Room and Game of Thrones-esque throne. Snap your own perfect selfie while diving into the emoji-filled pool or tub full of gold coins. 6757 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 737.471.5566, museumofselfies.com

can ponder zany accomplishments at the Guinness World Records Museum, while the Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Odditorium offers bizarre exhibitions.

Movie buffs head to the Hollywood Museum in the historic Max Factor Building, which displays 10,000 artifacts showcasing 100 years of showbiz history, including Indiana Jones’ whip and the honeymoon dress worn

by Marilyn Monroe after she married Joe DiMaggio.

AROUND VINE The storied intersection of Hollywood Boulevard and Vine Street, the epicenter of the Hollywood Walk of Fame, boasted a large concentration of entertainment-industry companies in the 1920s. It’s a different Hollywood today, but the magic of this location endures in the soaring W Hollywood Hotel & Residences and its Delphine brasserie. A Metro station is integrated into the hotel; Holly-

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: JONALYN SAN DIEGO, UNSPLASH; COURTESY TCL CHINESE THEATRE; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY MUSEUM OF SELFIES; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: FRANK ZHANG, UNSPLASH

HOLLYWOOD + HIGHLAND

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THIS PAGE, FROM TOP: TCL Chinese Theatre; the Hollywood Museum OPPOSITE: The roof at Griffith Observatory

INSIDER TIPS

House Hunters The Eastside is full of architectural stars, but please check before stopping by—only a few offer public access.

Stahl House

Bubeshko Apartments 2036-2046 Griffith Park Blvd., Silver Lake

The Ennis House 2607 Glendower Ave., Los Feliz

Hollyhock House 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.988.0516 (tours offered)

Neutra VDL House 2300 Silver Lake Blvd., Silver Lake, neutra-vdl.org (tours offered)

The Paramour Estate 1923 Micheltorena St., Silver Lake, 213.999.0920

Silvertop 2138 Micheltorena St., Silver Lake

The Sowden House 5121 Franklin Ave., Los Feliz

Stahl House 1635 Woods Drive, L.A., 208.429.1058 (prepaid tour reservations required) WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 35

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New Newin Town

In Town This L.A.-based, The

The Dudes’ Brewing Company

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Big Lebowski-loving microbrewery was due to open its sixth SoCal outpost in Hollywood at press time. 6615 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.321.6056

Tartine Sycamore

The Bay Area bakery continues its L.A. expansion with a full-service neighborhood café in the Hollywood Media District. 911 N. Sycamore Ave., L.A., 323.552.6054

Warby Parker

wood is particularly well served by mass transit. Across Hollywood Boulevard is dance club Avalon Hollywood.

Sunset Boulevard and Vine is in transition, but dance clubs and eateries give this corner plenty of character. Serious cinephiles catch their flicks at ArcLight Cinemas, where it’s easy to spot a celeb. Close by is Amoeba Music, where music fans and collectors browse through 31,000 square feet of space packed with rare vinyl records, CDs and memorabilia.

A couple of blocks west is Space 15 Twenty, an Urban Outfitters retail concept/mini complex that caters to shoppers with an outsize UO store and space for art, events, performances and pop-up shops.

a lively bar-and-club scene permeates the district. On and around Hollywood Boulevard, you can party under the guise of literary advancement at the library-themed Study Hollywood, drink and dine at Houston Hospitality hot spot No Vacancy, and attempt to get past the velvet ropes at nightclubs like Playhouse. Cahuenga Boulevard also is home to clubs and eateries, including Beauty & Essex.

Quintessentially L.A. but a galaxy removed from Hollywood Boulevard is the Hollywood Bowl, the largest outdoor amphitheater in the U.S., where the Los Angeles Philharmonic takes up residence from June to September. Picnicking under the stars here is one of the most memorable experiences in L.A.

NIGHT CRAWLING

LOS FELIZ + SILVER LAKE

The revival of Hollywood has only enhanced its nightlife, and

These neighborhoods are among the hippest in the county (and

perhaps the country). Vermont Avenue, the main drag in Los Feliz, presents a collection of shops and eateries that range from bohemian to chic. Skylight Books and 24/7 diner Fred 62 are popular hangouts. Restaurants such as Atrium represent the neighborhood’s increasing sophistication. Nearby, a stretch of Hollywood Boulevard houses cult-favorite gift shop/gallery Soap Plant/Wacko and Bar Covell, and Barnsdall Art Park offers recreational opportunities including tours of Frank Lloyd Wright’s recently restored Hollyhock House.

At Sunset Junction, where Sunset and Santa Monica boulevards intersect, Los Feliz transitions into Silver Lake. Foodies hang at Forage, Sawyer and Kettle Black, while aspiring screenwriters hammer at their laptops and sip lattes at Intelligentsia Coffee & Tea. Farther

east on Sunset Boulevard, cool beach gear at Mollusk Surf Shop and chic handbags at the Clare V. flagship beckon.

GRIFFITH PARK Among the largest urban parks in America, Griffith Park is an ideal place to hike, take a train ride, picnic, golf and more. The Charlie Turner Trailhead begins at Griffith Observatory, one of the great planetariums in the world and a frequent film location. The hike up Mount Hollywood (3 miles round trip) provides views of the Hollywood sign, and the Greek Theatre, a 5,870-seat amphitheater, is a legendary music venue. Also here are the Los Angeles Zoo & Botanical Gardens and the Western-heritage-oriented Autry Museum of the American West, both accessible from the Ventura (SR 134) or Golden State (I-5) freeways.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 53. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF HOLLYWOOD, SEE PAGE 77.

DALE BERMAN

Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House

The modern eyewear retailer brings its fashionable specs to Silver Lake in a new shop with a custom mural by Buckley. 3916 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.918.5291

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Downtown UNION STATION Union Station was the last of the grand railroad terminals built in the U.S. Its importance faded as the automobile began to dominate life in L.A., but the 80-yearold station has staged a comeback, thanks to a renovation and downtown’s new energy. From the station—the hub of the Metro system—you can board the Red Line to Hollywood and the San Fernando Valley or connect to the Blue Line to Long Beach or the Expo Line to Santa Monica. The Gold Line runs to Pasadena. Nonstop bus service to LAX is available 24/7. Metrolink commuter trains connect distant suburbs, and Amtrak trains offer coastal journeys.

GRAND AVENUE The heart of L.A.’s performingarts scene and the site of its most dramatic architecture, Grand Avenue is beginning to live up to its name. On Bunker Hill, once filled with Victorian mansions, four venues make up a formidable collection of

stages at the Music Center. The Dorothy Chandler Pavilion is home to L.A. Opera, and the Ahmanson Theatre and the Mark Taper Forum host theatrical productions. The flashiest venue is architect Frank Gehry’s lauded Walt Disney Concert Hall, winter home of the Los Angeles Philharmonic, led by its vivacious music director, Gustavo Dudamel. Also housed at Disney Hall is REDCAT, which offers visual, performing and multimedia arts programming.

After a show, take a stroll through the 12-acre Grand Park, between Grand Avenue and Hill Street and 1st and Temple streets.

BUNKER HILL Steps from the Ahmanson is the Cathedral of Our Lady of the Angels, designed by Spanish architect Rafael Moneo. A short walk south on Grand is the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA), and across from it is The Broad museum, built by philanthropists Eli and Edythe

Broad. Both sites house premier collections of contemporary art.

Angels Flight, a vintage funicular (seen in La La Land) that climbs to California Plaza from Hill Street below, reopened recently after repairs. Farther down Grand, at 5th Street, the Bunker Hill Steps rise five stories at the U.S. Bank Tower, site of the OUE Skyspace LA attraction. Across the street is the art deco-style Central Library.

OLVERA STREET The origin of the city of Los Angeles, dating back to 1781,

GREAT FIND

Keys to Success >The Giving Keys—a charitable downtown L.A.-based business that has helped over 130 employees transition out of homelessness—had been a fixture at local craft markets for years. But in 2018, the company finally opened its own storefront in the Arts District: a boho-chic space filled with its signature key necklaces, bracelets and earrings imprinted with inspiring words. 836 Traction Ave., downtown, thegivingkeys.com

is El Pueblo de Los Angeles, a collection of 27 buildings along festive pedestrian concourse Olvera Street. The city’s oldest building, Avila Adobe (circa 1818), is here, along with Mexican restaurants, mariachi bands and merchants offering arts and crafts. A few blocks away is the city’s oldest restaurant, Philippe the Original (1908), where a cup of joe is just 49 cents.

HISTORIC DISTRICTS Undergoing a renaissance is the Broadway Theater District, home to once-opulent movie palaces.

Several, such as the United Artists theater (now the stylish Theatre at Ace Hotel), have been revived or restored to their original grandeur. Cool shops such as Acne Studios and BNKR lend cachet to the area. The Bradbury Building, constructed in 1893 in the Italian Renaissance Revival style, was featured in the film Blade Runner.

Spring Street from 4th to 7th

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DALE BERMAN; COURTESY UNION STATION; DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY THE GIVING KEYS; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: PABLO ENRIQUEZ, COURTESY COS

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The fountain at Grand Park, in the heart of downtown Los Angeles; Union Station, built in 1939; dancing at historic Olvera Street

INSIDER TIPS

Urban Style These fashionable menswear shops keep L.A.’s downtown crowd looking on point.

COS

3.1 Phillip Lim 734 E. 3rd St., 213.246.2588

Acne Studios 855 S. Broadway, 213.243.0960

Apolis Alchemy Works, 826 E. 3rd St., 855.894.1559

COS 313 W. 8th St., 213.271.2716

Dover Street Market L.A. 606-608 Imperial St., 310.427.7610

Pocket Square Clothing 205 W. 7th St., 213.375.5111

Row DTLA (13 Bonaparte, Banks Journal, Bodega, Bridge & Burn) 777 Alameda St.

Visvim Exposition 304 S. Broadway, Suite 218, 213.265.7901

Wittmore 300 S. Santa Fe Ave., Suite X, 213.626.0780 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 39

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New in Town Abernethy’s

This new restaurant showcases rotating emerging chefs at the recently reopened Music Center Plaza. 220 N. Hope St., downtown, 213.972.8088

Roastery Del Sur

Verve Coffee Roasters’ new Arts District café and roastery boasts a craft coffee bar and sustainable menu items. 500 Mateo St., downtown, 213.419.5077

Triple Beam Pizza

streets is a rapidly awakening area once referred to as the “Wall Street of the West.” Steps from this historic district is a row of trendy bars on 6th Street (between Main and Los Angeles streets) that includes the Varnish, hidden in the back of historic Cole’s French Dip.

SHOPPING DISTRICTS Downtown’s heritage as a mercantile center is still evident in its historic shopping districts. The Jewelry District draws shoppers looking for deals on diamonds; in the neighboring Fashion District, you can find designer clothing items. At Santee Alley, an open-air bargain bazaar, designer trends breed low-priced knockoffs. The Flower District offers blooms at wholesale prices. For an awesome mix of old-school produce vendors and lunch counters and new, upscale specialty stalls, Grand Central

Market, near the foot of Angels Flight, is the place to go. And the Figat7th shopping center is home to trendy boutiques and eateries.

CHINATOWN Chinatown is a great destination for sampling dim sum, dining at foodie-favorite spots like Howlin’ Ray’s and Baohaus or browsing for clothing, tea or home goods. Cultural highlights include the ornate Thien Hau Temple.

Pedestrian-friendly Chung King Road and Gin Ling Way are home to hip galleries; Broadway is lined with boutiques. Dodger Stadium is a short drive away, as is San Antonio Winery, which offers tours and tastings.

LITTLE TOKYO Little Tokyo’s bar scene is popping, and dining options range from traditional sushi at Japanese Village Plaza to seasonal

small plates at Baldoria. Just a few steps down 1st Street is the sleek Japanese American National Museum. The Geffen Contemporary, a branch of MOCA, is next door. At 2nd and Main streets is the former St. Vibiana cathedral, now home to stylish Redbird restaurant. To Little Tokyo’s east is the Arts District, which boasts buzzy shops and markets; galleries including Hauser & Wirth Los Angeles; a bevy of craft breweries; and such lauded restaurants as The Factory Kitchen, Brera Ristorante and Bestia.

L.A. LIVE The $2.5 billion L.A. Live project is home to Staples Center, as well as the Los Angeles Lakers, Clippers, Sparks and Kings, and it hosts top pop acts, as does Microsoft Theater, which boasts state-of-the-art acoustics. The Grammy Museum honors myr-

iad music genres with videos, artifacts and interactive exhibits.

A dozen restaurants and nightlife venues—WP24, Katsuya and Lucky Strike Lanes, to name a few—face a massive urban plaza lined with LED screens. The Los Angeles Convention Center, encompassing 16-plus acres of exhibition space, is also here.

EXPOSITION PARK Just south of downtown is Exposition Park, whose grounds hold major museums and the Los Angeles Memorial Coliseum, temporary home of the L.A. Rams. The California African American Museum delves into black history, and the beauxarts-style Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County offers insight into prehistoric giants. The California Science Center has a 3D Imax theater and exhibits the retired NASA space shuttle Endeavour.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 53. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF DOWNTOWN, SEE PAGE 77.

IWAN BAAN

The Broad

Nancy Silverton and Matt Molina’s pizza place has a new Echo Park location, serving up Roman-style slices by the ounce next to the Echo. 1818 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., triplebeampizza.com

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Pasadena HOME TO THE TOURNAMENT OF ROSES, THE CROWN CITY’S SMALL-TOWN CHARM BLOOMS ALL YEAR LONG.

A tribute to foresighted urban planning is the 22-square-block shopping district known as Old Pasadena, roughly bounded

by Walnut and Green streets, Arroyo Parkway and Pasadena Avenue. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it’s a collection of restored buildings filled with trendy boutiques, bistros and nightclubs. Merchants range from Tesla Motors to Zara, and eateries include Union, a top-rated Italian restaurant. Pedestrian-only alleys meander through the One Colorado project in the heart of Old Pasadena, where restaurants offer alfresco dining overlooking a sculpture-strewn square. Boutiques such as Vince and Cop. Copine draw shoppers, while iPic Theaters reimagines the moviegoing experience with state-of-the-art technology, plush seats and a bar/café.

Nearby is the Norton Simon Museum, home to one of the finest art collections in the West. The galleries are filled

with works dating from the Renaissance to the 20th century, and the museum’s repertoire of impressionist masters is formidable. To the north, you’ll find Rose Bowl Stadium (home to the UCLA Bruins, concerts and a popular flea market) and, nearby, the interactive Kidspace Children’s Museum.

East of Old Pasadena is Paseo Colorado, a shopping center with an ArcLight movie theater, restaurants and shops lining garden promenades. Its open-air design frames views of Pasadena City Hall, a majestic landmark restored to its original beaux-arts grandeur.

PLAYHOUSE DISTRICT + SOUTH LAKE AVENUE Anchored by the Mission-style Pasadena Playhouse, this district offers art house cinema, antique shops and bookstores, as well as the famed Ice House Comedy Club, whose stage has hosted George Carlin and Jerry Seinfeld. Other cultural attractions include the Boston Court

Performing Arts Center and the USC Pacific Asia Museum.

East of the Playhouse District, South Lake Avenue provides a vibrant shopping environment.

Inviting boutiques are set around European-style courtyards at the Commons and Burlington Arcade. A drive south on Lake Avenue through one of the city’s most opulent residential neighborhoods leads to the Langham Huntington. Consider this grand, historic hotel for high tea, Japanese Kobe beef at its Royce steakhouse or pampering at its award-winning Chuan Spa.

GREAT FIND

Seeing Green >Botanical boutique Folia Collective specializes in happy and healthy indoor plants. Owner Danae Horst recently relocated the shop from Pasadena to Eagle Rock, where, in addition to houseplants, you’ll find stylish planters and plant accessories. The lush showroom is an inviting space; take a seat on the velvet sofa and enjoy being in the presence of plants. 5117 Eagle Rock Blvd., L.A., 626.787.4957, foliacollective.com

SAN MARINO + SAN GABRIEL VALLEY South of the Langham is San Marino and its primary attraction, The Huntington, whose library, art collections, botanical gardens and education and visitor center occupy one of the most remarkable pieces of real estate in Southern California.

Here, the Italianate mansion of railroad magnate Henry Huntington houses an extraordinary collection of 18th- and 19th-century art. A library with nearly 9 million rare books, photographs and manuscripts occupies another structure. Throughout the 200-acre property are more than a dozen distinct botanical environments, the Helen and Peter Bing Children’s Garden and a formal rose garden boasting more than 1,200 rose varieties.

Sharing Pasadena’s eastern border are the communities of Sierra Madre and Arcadia, home to Santa Anita Park, one of the most storied thoroughbred-

ALL PHOTOS DALE BERMAN. BOTTOM LEFT: DANAE HORST; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: © DESCANSO GARDENS

OLD PASADENA

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Huntington’s cacti-filled Desert Garden; the architecturally significant Pasadena City Hall; shopping in Old Pasadena

INSIDER TIPS

Garden Party These local gardens bloom year-round.

Descanso Gardens

Arlington Garden 275 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, 626.578.5434

Descanso Gardens 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200

The Huntington 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2100

Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222

Norton Simon Museum 411 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.6840

Storrier Stearns Japanese Garden 270 Arlington Drive, Pasadena, 626.399.1721

Tournament House & Wrigley Gardens 391 S. Orange Grove Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.4100

Whispering Pine Tea House 1601 W. Mountain St., Glendale, 818.548.3782 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 43

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New in Town Cheeks & Co.

This new facial bar offers approachable, luxurious and customizable skin care treatments in Old Pasadena.

20 S. Raymond Ave., Pasadena, 626.765.6300

The Greyhound Bar & Grill

Highland Park’s neighborhood pub is now serving its chicken wings, craft beers and creative cocktails at a second location in Glendale. 933 S. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 747.240.6825

Salt & Straw

horse-racing venues in the world.

Arcadia is also home to the beautiful 127-acre Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden, whose natural Southern California habitat is famous for its wild peacocks. Farther east, scattered along the San Bernardino Freeway (I-10), are the communities of San Gabriel, Temple City, Monterey Park and Alhambra, which have attracted large numbers of Chinese and Vietnamese immigrants. This means the opportunity for enjoying authentic Asian cuisine— everything from hole-in-the-wall bánh mì shops to grandiose Cantonese dim sum palaces—is virtually unrivaled in Southern California. Tourists passionate about history, architecture or faith can explore the 1771 San Gabriel Mission, and the rugged San Gabriel Mountains present myriad hiking opportunities for nature lovers.

SOUTH PASADENA

EAGLE ROCK + GLENDALE

The scenic route to South Pasadena on Orange Grove Boulevard passes through a stretch once known as Millionaire’s Row. Some splendid homes remain, including the former Wrigley Mansion (Tournament House), which now houses the Tournament of Roses Association. North of Old Pasadena, the boulevard leads to the Gamble House. This, the most famous achievement of architects Greene and Greene, is a classic representation of the Arts and Crafts movement that left its imprint on Pasadena. South Pasadena is a tranquil community whose Craftsman homes range from bungalows to mansions, and its Mission West Historic District is lined with antique shops, art galleries, casual cafés and kid-friendly spots like Fair Oaks Pharmacy, a restored drugstore from 1915.

West of Pasadena is Eagle Rock, a quiet college town reinventing itself as a trendy L.A. neighborhood. Its main drag of Colorado Boulevard is lined with a diverse collection of restaurants including Casa Bianca, a venerable old-school pizza joint. In Eagle Rock, students from highly ranked Occidental College— where a young Barack Obama once studied—mingle with young couples who are snapping up hillside real estate.

On the far side of Eagle Rock is Glendale, the third-largest city in Los Angeles County. There, office workers pour out of highrises for happy hour at The Americana at Brand, an open-air shopping, residential and entertainment development. Stylesavvy shoppers can browse in boutiques, catch a movie or recharge at the Americana’s restaurants, which include the

Philippe Starck-designed Katsuya and celebrity chef Michael Mina’s Bourbon Steak.

Home to a large Armenian community, Glendale offers a wealth of ethnic eateries specializing in kebabs, shawarma and belly dancing. Marked by a towering neon obelisk is the Alex Theatre, a restored art deco masterpiece that hosts concerts and musicals. Blocks from the Alex is the Museum of Neon Art, dedicated to showcasing a quintessentially L.A. craft.

North of Glendale is the relatively undiscovered community of Montrose, whose main street of Honolulu Avenue is more Mayberry than L.A., with homespun shops and diners. Close by, in La Cañada Flintridge, is sprawling Descanso Gardens, with North America’s largest camellia collection—an awesome sight when in full bloom during January and February.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 53. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF PASADENA, SEE PAGE 78.

DALE BERMAN

South Pasadena’s Fair Oaks Pharmacy

The crazy-popular Portland-born ice cream shop brings its inventive flavors to One Colorado. 39 W. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.304.0303

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

South Bay THE SOUTH BAY’S BEACHES AND HARBORS BOAST OCEANVIEW DINING, MOM-AND-POP SHOPS AND FUN ATTRACTIONS.

Less than 5 miles south of LAX, Manhattan Beach boasts 2 miles of beaches with sand so fine that developers exported it to Waikiki Beach in the 1920s.

Laid-back Manhattan Beach is home to many professional athletes: You might spot an L.A. Kings player as you walk along the Strand, the pedestrian promenade sandwiched between multimillion-dollar homes and the beachfront bike trail. The city’s picturesque pier, with its newly modernized Roundhouse Aquarium, features plaques commemorating winners of the Manhattan Beach Open—the South Bay is diehard beach-volleyball country.

It’s also a playground for watersports enthusiasts, including bodyboarders and surfers. East of the pier along Manhattan Beach Boulevard and Manhattan Avenue are chic boutiques and a burgeoning dining scene, with restaurants such as Fishing With Dynamite, Love & Salt, Little Sister and The Strand

House drawing gourmets from across L.A. The Metlox center is a popular gathering place, with shops like the Beehive.

Between Manhattan Beach and LAX to the north is El Segundo, an industrial city with a quaint downtown and upscale shopping and dining centers including The Point.

HERMOSA BEACH Head south on Manhattan Avenue to Pier Avenue, the heart of Hermosa Beach. Hermosa shares many characteristics with Manhattan Beach, including its own scenic stretch of beach punctuated by volleyball nets, fitness buffs weaving along the Strand (here merged with the bike path) and a pier studded with bronze plaques commemorating surfing legends. Come late afternoon, the pedestrian plaza at the foot of the pier becomes a different kind of South Bay scene, thanks to spillover from bars and restaurants such as Hennessey’s Tavern and Tower 12. Close to

Pier Plaza, on Hermosa Avenue, Jay Leno still draws crowds to the Comedy & Magic Club Sunday nights. To the plaza’s east, café/boutique Gum Tree and the Hook & Plow are standouts among the specialty shops and eateries that line Pier Avenue.

Farther east, Becker carries surfboards and beachwear.

REDONDO BEACH The largest of L.A. County’s beach cities, Redondo Beach is home to the 1,457-seat Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center and a recreational waterfront

GREAT FIND

What the Heart Wants >Its name might mean “blank slate,” but Tabula Rasa Essentials is full of great gifts and cool mementos. Standouts include beach-inspired home decor and accessories imbued with hometown love. And the love is mutual: Locals recently voted the 20-year-old shop the “Best Woman-Owned Business in Manhattan Beach.” 919 Manhattan Ave., Suite A, Manhattan Beach, 310.318.3385, tabularasaessentials.com

featuring 2 miles of sandy beaches, the popular Redondo Beach Pier and King Harbor.

Sepulveda Boulevard becomes Pacific Coast Highway as it enters town; signs point west to King Harbor’s Redondo Beach Marina, one of four marinas in the harbor. Here businesses such as Redondo Sportfishing offer fishing excursions and whalewatching tours, while other local outfitters rent out kayaks, paddleboats, bicycles and wave runners. South of the harbor, the historic Redondo Beach Pier attracts locals and visitors with quick-and-casual eateries, amusements and souvenir shops. South of the pier, the gentle waves and somewhat narrow strip of Redondo State Beach draw crowds during the summer, while the bike path meanders by on its way to its terminus at Torrance State Beach. One block east of the beach, the Riviera Village shopping district has a small-town

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: ALAMY STOCK PHOTO; LISA CORSON; COURTESY AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC. BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY TABULA RASA ESSENTIALS; OPPOSITE FAR RIGHT: COURTESY WHITE OAK COMMUNICATIONS

MANHATTAN BEACH

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Manhattan Beach Pier and Roundhouse Aquarium; Hermosa Beach; a penguin at Long Beach’s Aquarium of the Pacific

INSIDER TIPS

¡Vamos a comer!

For muy deliciosa Mexican fare, sit down at one of these local faves.

Madre

Madre 1261 Cabrillo Ave., Suite 100, Torrance, 310.974.8005

Ortega 120 1814 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach, 310.792.4120

Palmilla Cocina y Tequila 39 Pier Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.977.7939

Pancho’s 3615 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.6670

Panxa Cocina 3937 E. Broadway, Long Beach, 562.433.7999

Sausal 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721

Sion’s 235 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.372.4504

Zacatecas Restaurant 13737 S. Inglewood Ave., Suite 9, Hawthorne, 310.679.5161 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 47

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New in Town Gorjana

The Laguna Beach jewelry brand brings its chic, stackable pieces to the new 2ND & PCH shopping center. 6440 E. Pacific Coast Hwy., Space B-115, Long Beach, 562.431.0093

Mosa

Dine on fresh seafood and housemade pastas at this new coastal Italian spot in the South Bay. 190 Hermosa Ave., Hermosa Beach, 310.504.0381

Sidecar Doughnuts & Coffee

feel, with restaurants and specialty boutiques such as Cami and the Catalina Cooking Store covering a six-block radius.

PALOS VERDES PENINSULA Beyond Redondo Beach rises the Palos Verdes Peninsula, a rugged 26-square-mile area known for majestic bluffs that afford sweeping views of the Pacific Ocean and Santa Catalina Island. Head a few miles inland via Palos Verdes Drive North to the 87-acre South Coast Botanic Garden, a year-round attraction featuring 200,000 plants. Or hug the coast on Palos Verdes Drive West to Rancho Palos Verdes’ Point Vicente Interpretive Center, a popular graywhale-watching site. Just past the adjacent Point Vicente Lighthouse is the Mediterranean-style Terranea Resort, which offers fine dining, a 50,000-square-

foot oceanfront spa and a public nine-hole golf course. Farther along is the Wayfarers Chapel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright’s son Lloyd Wright. The impressive Swedenborgian “glass church” is a popular wedding venue.

SAN PEDRO The multicultural community of San Pedro, on the southeastern side of the Palos Verdes Peninsula, was once the largest commercial fishing port in the nation. Today it’s home to the bustling 7,500-acre Port of Los Angeles, which features passenger and cargo terminals, as well as a crafts marketplace and brewery. Catalina Express operates from Berth 95, offering daily boat service to Catalina’s quaint city of Avalon and rustic village of Two Harbors.

More than a million travelers pass through the World Cruise Center (Berths 91-93) annu-

ally; adjacent to the complex is the battleship-turned-museum Battleship USS Iowa. A few miles south is the Cabrillo Beach Recreational Complex, which includes a marina, the Frank Gehry-designed Cabrillo Marine Aquarium and Cabrillo Beach— one of the county’s most popular windsurfing spots.

LONG BEACH In the county’s southwestern corner, Long Beach is home to a busy commercial port, an attraction-packed waterfront and more than 5 miles of beaches. A popular draw is the 1,020-foot-long Queen Mary, a historic, supposedly haunted ship-turned-hotel, dining and shopping attraction permanently moored in Long Beach Harbor.

The Long Beach Convention & Entertainment Center, the Pike Outlets, the Aquarium of the

Pacific and Shoreline Village are nearby. From the village, you can follow the Shoreline pedestrian bike path 3.1 miles, past the Long Beach Museum of Art and into the Belmont Shore neighborhood. Here you’ll find shops and restaurants along 2nd Street, Bay Shore Beach, the Belmont Pier and windsurfing and kitesurfing lessons. Across a small channel is Naples, where you can take gondola rides through the canals and dine at restaurants such as Michael’s on Naples.

Downtown, along 4th Street between Junipero and Cherry avenues, vintage-furniture and clothing shops make up funky “Retro Row.” In the emergent East Village Arts District, hip galleries and boutiques are sprouting. Farther east, an impressive collection of modern and contemporary works decks the walls of the Museum of Latin American Art.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE LISTINGS IN THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 53. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP OF THE SOUTH BAY, SEE PAGE 77.

STEVE NICHOLS/ALAMY STOCK PHOTO

The Queen Mary ocean liner

This popular doughnut shop is now frying up its fresh treats every hour at Rolling Hills Plaza. 2549-B Pacific Coast Hwy., Torrance, 424.263.5091

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

The Valley THE VALLEY IS A SPRAWLING COLLECTION OF COMMUNITIES, EACH WITH ITS OWN ATTRACTIONS AND CHARMS.

A couple of Metro stops north of the heart of Hollywood is Universal City, a major entertainment-industry outpost. The highlight is Universal Studios Hollywood, which offers a behind-the-scenes peek into moviemaking, plus a theme park with high-tech virtual-reality action rides. The Wizarding World of Harry Potter is all the buzz; also thrilling are the Despicable Me: Minion Mayhem attraction and the Simpsons Ride and its adjacent Springfieldthemed “world.” Splurge for Universal’s VIP Experience, which pampers its guests with such perks as private tour guides, exclusive backlot access and unlimited front-of-line access in the theme park.

Among the wide-ranging attractions next door at pedestrian-only Universal CityWalk are skydiving simulations at iFly Hollywood and the latest films at the state-of-the-art Universal Cinema. Restaurants include Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville,

Dongpo Kitchen, chef Ludo Lefebvre’s LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut.

BURBANK Burbank calls itself the “media capital of the world”—and with good reason. The city is home to some of the most famous players in the entertainment business, including Walt Disney Studios, Cartoon Network and Nickelodeon Animation Studio.

Get a taste of the action on a Warner Bros. Studio Tour Hollywood or as part of the studio audience at a taping of one of your favorite programs, such as The Ellen DeGeneres Show. The media district, which encompasses most of these companies, also boasts some newer cafés and dining destinations, including Coffee Commissary and Simmzy’s, as well as the iconic Bob’s Big Boy, which hosts a classic-car show every Friday.

Burbank’s entertainment industry is hardly the city’s only draw. More than 160 restaurants and shops cater to locals and

visitors alike. The downtown district offers a major-mall shopping experience, movie theaters and the country’s largest Ikea, but surrounding streets, such as historic San Fernando Boulevard, have a more homegrown feel, with shops and trendy bistros such as Granville. Another mustvisit district is hip Magnolia Park, centered at Magnolia Boulevard and Hollywood Way, which offers indie cafés, antique shops and the area’s best retro and vintage boutiques (Playclothes and Slone Vintage are favorites).

Always-packed Porto’s Bakery

GREAT FIND

True Colors >Makeup artist Nicole Faulkner has a gift for glam, and has three Emmy nods (for her work on RuPaul’s Drag Race) to prove it. At her inclusive new beauty bar Pout by Lipsticknick, she and best friend Esther Koop ensure both girls and boys have access to expert makeup and dry hairstyling services, classes and products by L.A. brands. 11135 Weddington St., Suite 129, North Hollywood, 818.356.9638, poutbeautybar.com

offers excellent pastries and sandwiches from Europe and the owners’ native Cuba.

Do you like the outdoors?

Burbank is a gateway to the Verdugo Mountains, which are crisscrossed with hiking trails. A workout here is rewarded with spectacular views of Burbank, the Hollywood Hills and downtown L.A. For golf enthusiasts, DeBell Golf Club features regulation 18-hole and par-3 courses.

And during the summer, outdoor amphitheater the Starlight Bowl hosts a music series.

If you’re jetting into or out of L.A., you can escape the hassles of LAX by opting for uncongested Hollywood Burbank Airport.

It offers nonstop flights to many cities across the country and is centrally located, with easy access to Hollywood, downtown L.A. and the San Gabriel Valley.

NORTH HOLLYWOOD North Hollywood wasn’t much of a tourist destination until

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: DAVID SPRAGUE/UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD; DALE BERMAN (3)

UNIVERSAL CITY

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THIS PAGE: The NoHo Arts District OPPOSITE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: The Wizarding World of Harry Potter; Porto’s Bakery; the Federal Bar

INSIDER TIPS

Showtime Get in on the act at the Valley’s performingarts venues. dance, a boutique showcasing plus-size designer fashions.

Sherman Oaks is also home to Westfield Fashion Square, anchored by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. Sherman Oaks Galleria is near the junction of the 405 and 101 freeways; draws include ArcLight Cinemas, where there’s a chance you’ll see famous faces drawn to the Valley by its familyoriented lifestyle.

FAR RIGHT: COURTESY THE SORAYA; OPPOSITE BOTTOM LEFT: COURTESY POUT BY LIPSTICKNICK

DEEP IN THE VALLEY

the community transformed its commercial core into the NoHo Arts District, now filled with nearly two dozen professional theaters, including the landmark El Portal Theatre. These venues present some of the most innovative stage performances in L.A., and neighboring dance studios and art galleries contribute to the scene. With restaurants like the Federal Bar, a lively gastropub; several Tiki bars; and the 1933 Group’s Idle Hour, a bar in a barrel-shaped, refurbished landmark building from the 1940s, the momentum continues for this transit-linked urban village.

From NoHo’s Metro station, you can access central Hollywood and downtown via the Red Line subway or board the Orange Line, a sleek express bus that traverses the entire San Fernando Valley.

VENTURA BOULEVARD This iconic, palm-lined boulevard stretches 20 miles across the San Fernando Valley. Immortalized in music by Frank Zappa and Tom Petty, the boulevard is an integral part of L.A. culture and home to a burgeoning dining scene.

In Studio City, it’s lined with eateries, including entertainment-industry-favored Art’s Deli, newer favorite the Bellwether and a greater concentration of acclaimed sushi bars (such as Asanebo) than Little Tokyo claims. For shopping, there are charming boutiques and beauty retreats such as Face Haus facial bar. Hip bars and restaurants including Firefly have helped to launch a nightlife scene.

Farther west, as the boulevard winds its way through Sherman Oaks, you’ll encounter laid-back trattorias and bistros, as well as shops such as Abun-

Westfield Topanga shopping center is loaded with exclusive designer boutiques. The Village outdoor lifestyle destination expands the center’s retail and dining options. Farther west off the Ventura Freeway (U.S. 101) is Calabasas, where celebrities move for more elbow room.

Upscale shopping and casual eateries live at the Commons at Calabasas, an elegant open-air destination. A few exits beyond that is Westlake Village, where locals hit the luxurious spa or do lunch at the Four Seasons.

Visitors to the Ronald Reagan Presidential Library and Museum in neighboring Simi Valley can step aboard an actual Air Force One, visit a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office and learn all about America’s 40th president. North on the Golden State Freeway (I-5) in Valencia, coaster lovers gather at Six Flags Magic Mountain for rides too wild for Disneyland.

> FOR BOLD ITEMS, SEE THE WHERE GUIDE ON PAGE 53. FOR A NEIGHBORHOOD MAP, SEE PAGE 78.

The Soraya at CSUN

The Colony Theatre 555 N. 3rd St., Burbank, 818.558.7000

Crown City Theatre 11031 Camarillo St., North Hollywood, 818.605.5685

El Portal Theatre 5269 Lankershim Blvd., North Hollywood, 818.508.4200

Garry Marshall Theatre 4252 W. Riverside Drive, Burbank, 818.955.8101

Simi Valley Cultural Arts Center 3050 E. Los Angeles Ave., 805.583.7900

The Soraya at CSUN 18111 Nordhoff St., Northridge, 818.677.3000

Thousand Oaks Civic Arts Plaza 2100 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., 805.449.2787

Whitefire Theatre 13500 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.687.8559 WHERE TRAVELER LOS ANGELES 51

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A CULINARY ADVENTURE IS ON THE HORIZON. Pasta al fresco beachside, coastal California fare by the fire, Spanish tapas overlooking the pier, awe inspiring sushi, sashimi and Santa Monica sunsets, craft cocktails, nightly live music and so much more.

A journey to the end of Pico is only the beginning.

COA S T | 1 P I CO | L I V I N G R O O M | C ATC H | T E R R A Z Z A LO U N G E

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LOST & FOUND

WINTER

THE BEST IN L.A.

© TOM KIEFER. DOLLARS AND CENTAVOS, 2015. REDUX PICTURES

On view now at the Skirball Cultural Center, El Sueño Americano | The American Dream: Photographs by Tom Kiefer poignantly engages with the contemporary migrant experience. While working as a janitor at a Customs and Border Protection station in Arizona, Kiefer captured images of items seized and discarded by border officials.

Featuring a selection of over 100 photographs, the exhibition suggests how we treat our most vulnerable is a reflection of who we are as a nation. See museum listings.

THE GUIDE

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THE GUIDE / DINING

A.O.C. > Mediterranean $$$ Explore a Mediterranean-inspired menu at the eatery that pioneered two L.A. culinary trends—the small-plates format and the wine bar—from James Beard Award-winning Suzanne Goin and Caroline Styne. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8700 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.859.9859 Map I12 BAO DIM SUM > Chinese $$ Enjoy delicious, authentic dim sum in a relaxing, lantern-lit atmosphere. Favorites include juicy pork dumplings and shrimp shumai, followed by bao milk buns for dessert. L, D (daily). 8256 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.655.6556 Map I12 CLEO > Mediterranean $$$ Executive chef Danny Elmaleh’s Mediterranean small plates include kebabs of skirt steak and lamb, and woodburned flatbreads. B, D (daily). The Orlando Hotel, 8384 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.579.1600 Map I12

Plant Power

Three new restaurants add to L.A.’s inventive vegan options.

West Hollywood is home to the first U.S. location of Canadian restaurant Fresh (pictured above). Enjoy shareable cuisine, cold-pressed juices, botanical cocktails and wines in a jeweltoned velvet booth or on the lush patio (8768 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.432.5199, freshplantpowered.com). The popular Monty’s Good Burger has opened a second L.A. location in Echo Park. Stop by the colorful diner for In-NOut-style Impossible Burgers (1533 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., montysgoodburger.com).

Monty’s co-owner Nic Adler has branched out with Nic’s on Beverly, a stylish spot in the vein of plant-based, upscale Crossroads Kitchen.

Standouts from the menu include the avocado crispy rice and falafel burger (8265 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.370.0092, nicsonbeverly.com).

(V) CROSSROADS KITCHEN > Mediterranean $$$ Chef/partner Tal Ronnen creates exclusively plant-based dishes, many based on nonvegan comfort-food classics.

L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8284 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.782.9245 Map H12 THE DISTRICT BY HANNAH AN > Pan-Asian $$$ One of the celebrated An sisters—her family introduced Beverly Hills’ Crustacean—offers cuisine that reflects her Vietnamese heritage while incorporating California sensibilities in a chic indoor-outdoor space. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8722 W. 3rd St., L.A., 310.278.2345 Map I12 (V) GRACIAS MADRE > Mexican/Latin $$ Organic, plant-based Mexican fare is served at this beautiful restaurant (the patio’s ambiance can’t be beat) from the team behind Café Gratitude. Inventive dishes like coconut ceviche and flautas de camote filled with sweet potatoes and cashew nacho cheese please vegans and omnivores alike. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8905 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.978.2170 Map I12 JOAN’S ON THIRD > American $$ Celebrity-frequented café on busy West 3rd Street offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 8350 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.655.2285 Map I12 THE LITTLE DOOR > French $$$ For a candlelit dinner in a romantic setting, this is the reservation ne plus ultra. Dine on rustic FrenchMediterranean dishes under the stars. D (nightly).

8164 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.951.1210 Map I12 LUCQUES > Mediterranean $$$ Chef/owner Suzanne Goin (A.O.C.) delivers the next generation of Cal-Med cuisine, which includes delicious starters such as grilled lamb merguez with haricots verts, banyuls, dried figs and treviso. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 8474 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.655.6277 Map I13 OSTERIA MOZZA > Italian $$$ Famed L.A.-based bread maker Nancy Silverton is a partner in Mozza’s group of contemporary Italian restaurants, which includes this sophisticated dining room. D (nightly). 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.0100 Map H13 PIZZERIA MOZZA/MOZZA2GO > Italian $$ The more relaxed sibling of Osteria Mozza, Pizzeria Mozza features pizzas with Mediterranean ingredients, cheeses and salumi plates, and rustic daily specials.

Call ahead for delivery or takeout from Mozza2Go. L, D (daily). Pizzeria Mozza: 641 N. Highland Ave.,

Guidelines Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Beverly Boulevard........ 54 Beverly Hills................. 54 Brentwood.................... 56 Century City.................. 56 Culver City.................... 56 Downtown..................... 56 Hollywood..................... 58 La Brea......................... 58 La Cienega Boulevard. 58

Malibu........................... 59 Marina del Rey............. 59 Pasadena...................... 59 Santa Monica................ 60 South Bay..................... 60 Valley............................. 60 Venice............................ 60 West Hollywood............ 61 Westside....................... 61

(V) = Vegan/Vegetarian

L.A., 323.297.0101. Mozza2Go: 6610 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.297.1130 Map H13 PROVIDENCE > Seafood $$$$ Michael Cimarusti (who’s also behind West Hollywood’s Connie and Ted’s) transforms sustainable seafood into oft-changing dishes at this refined restaurant. Outstanding cocktails complement Michelin-recognized cuisine. L (F), D (nightly). 5955 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.460.4170 Map I14 ROSALINÉ > Mexican/Latin $$$ Acclaimed chef Ricardo Zarate’s sunny restaurant— named after his mother—introduces the “next phase of Peruvian dining” (e.g., kampachi ceviche, chicharrón de paiche). D (nightly). 8479 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood, 323.297.9500 Map I12 SON OF A GUN > Seafood $$$ Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, the meat-loving chefs at Animal, turn to the sea for inspiration here. They cook up small shareable plates, such as miniature lobster rolls and shrimp-toast sandwiches, in a nautically themed space. L, D (daily). 8370 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.782.9033 Map I12 TERRONI > Italian $$ Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza and pastas. Try the delicious capunti al ragù d’agnello. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 7605 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 323.954.0300 Map J13 TORELLI TRATTORIA > Italian $$ Featuring a charming patio and dining room, this classic Tuscan trattoria serves authentic, made-to-order Italian dishes such as polpette al forno con mozzarella, tortellini di formaggio al pesto and lasagna Bolognese e besciamella. Br, L, D (Tu-Su). 7469 Melrose Ave., L.A., 323.433.7065 Map H13

BEVERLY HILLS THE BELVEDERE > Mediterranean $$$$ The Peninsula Beverly Hills’ restaurant has a lovely terrace and menu from executive chef David Codney. B, L, D (daily); Br (Su). 9882 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.788.2306 Map J11 CRUSTACEAN > Pan-Asian $$$ A walk-on-water aquarium meanders throughout the length of this modern-Vietnamese Beverly Hills landmark, which recently reopened its doors following a $10 million redesign. Enjoy reimagined Asian-fusion dishes while still satisfying cravings with the An family’s legendary “Secret Kitchen” dishes. L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 468 N. Bedford Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.205.8990 Map I11

> The Musso & Frank Grill, which recently celebrated its centennial, was prominently featured in Quentin Tarantino’s Once Upon a Time... in Hollywood. p. 58

COURTESY FRESH

BEVERLY BOULEVARD / 3RD STREET / MELROSE AVENUE

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DINING

Aceitunas at Rosaliné (p. 54)

CULINA > Italian $$$ The Four Seasons’ acclaimed Italian restaurant boasts coastal influences and a sleek crudo bar. Adjacent is Vinoteca, an Italian-inspired wine- and espresso-bar concept. B, D (daily); L (M-Sa); Br (Su). Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 S. Doheny Drive, L.A., 310.860.4000 Map J12 CUT > Steak $$$$ A collaboration between Getty Center architect Richard Meier and Wolfgang Puck, CUT is the place to savor genuine wagyu beef steaks or dry-aged Nebraska beef. D (M-Sa). Beverly Wilshire Hotel, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.276.8500 Map J11 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY > Steak $$$ The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads, chicken potpies and other old-school fare. L (M-Sa), D (nightly). 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.276.0615 Map I11 JEAN-GEORGES BEVERLY HILLS > California $$$$ Michelin-rated French chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s namesake restaurant at the Waldorf Astoria Beverly Hills is an opulent indoor/outdoor fine-dining destination, perfect for enjoying fresh, local cuisine. B, L, D (daily). 9850 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.860.6666 Map J11

BRENTWOOD

BAVEL > Mediterranean $$$ Bestia chef Ori Menashe and wife/pastry chef Genevieve Gergis bring Middle Eastern cuisine into the mainstream at this lively, trendsetting Arts District restaurant. The menu features a wide-ranging selection of mezze and larger plates such as herb-stuffed dorade with red chermoula. D (nightly). 500 Mateo St., downtown, 213.232.4966 Map J17

BALTAIRE > Steak $$$$ Helmed by executive chef Travis Strickland, this sophisticated restaurant offers prime steaks, wines by the glass, old-school charm and sun-or-stars dining on its terrace.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 11647 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 424.273.1660 Map J12

BESTIA > Italian $$$ Multiregional Italian restaurant in the hip Arts District serves up such “beast”-focused dishes as roasted marrow bone with spinach gnocchetti, breadcrumbs and aged balsamic. D (nightly). 2121 E. 7th Place, downtown, 213.514.5724 Map east of J17

JON & VINNY’S > Italian $$ Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, which just opened a new Brentwood outpost, has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. B, L, D (daily). 11938 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.442.2733 Map J12

BOTTEGA LOUIE > Italian $$ This palatial Italian restaurant, decked out in white marble, is a hip, noisy hall where young professionals convene over brick-oven-cooked pizzas. There’s a gourmet market and patisserie, too. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 700 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.802.1470 Map I16

TAVERN > California $$$ James Beard Award-winning chef Suzanne Goin’s third L.A. restaurant explores rustic Cal-Med fare in chic environs, including a sunlit indoor patio. The frequently changing menu might include “devil’s chicken” with leeks and mustard breadcrumbs. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 11648 San Vicente Blvd., L.A., 310.806.6464 Map J9

CENTURY CITY CRAFT > American $$$ New York chef Tom Colicchio of TV’s Top Chef brings his signature concept to L.A. The restaurant delivers a contemporary à la carte menu, with fun, shareable dishes.

L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 10100 Constellation Blvd., L.A., 310.279.4180 Map K11 DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. Vegetable dishes like cucumber salad and sautéed string beans are also favorites. L, D (daily).

Westfield Century City, 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 424.382.1118 Map J10

CULVER CITY

MASTRO’S STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ Swanky “steakhouse with personality.” Bone-in filet reigns; warm butter cake melts in your mouth. Penthouse at Mastro’s is an upstairs lounge. D (nightly). 246 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.888.8782 Map J11

LUKSHON > Pan-Asian $$$ Sang Yoon of Father’s Office is behind this Southeast Asian eatery. The crispy whole fish is not to be missed.

L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa). 3239 Helms Ave., Culver City, 310.202.6808 Map K12

MATSUHISA > Japanese $$$$ Superchef Nobu Matsuhisa’s relatively modest original flagship incorporates luxurious Western ingredients and Latin American spices. L (M-F), D (nightly). 129 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.659.9639 Map I12

NATALEE THAI > Thai $$ Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 10101 Venice Blvd., L.A., 310.202.7003 Map L11

MAUDE > California $$$$ Aussie celebrity chef Curtis Stone helms this 24-seat restaurant. Four times a year, Stone and his team offer a new tasting menu and optional wine pairings inspired by a great wine region of the world. D (Tu-Sa). 212 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.859.3418 Map J11 MR CHOW > Chinese $$$$ The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. L (M-F), D (nightly). 344 N. Camden Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.278.9911 Map I11 NATALEE THAI > Thai $$ Traditional Thai dishes are served amid edgy, modern decor. Popular entrées include Nutty Chicken and a sole filet in red curry sauce. Veggie lovers favor the spicy maha jumlong curry. L, D (daily). 998 S. Robertson Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.855.9380 Map J12

VESPERTINE > Eclectic/Fusion $$$$ Chef Jordan Kahn’s pricey “gastronomical experiment” topped late L.A. Times restaurant critic Jonathan Gold’s 2017 list of the city’s 101 best restaurants. Expect a spaceage meal of 18-plus courses. Reservations must be made in advance online. D (Tu-Sa). 3599 Hayden Ave., Culver City, 323.320.4023, vespertine.la Map L12

DOWNTOWN 71ABOVE > American $$$$ In addition to skyline views, expect elevated modern American dishes at this restaurant on the 71st floor of the U.S. Bank Tower. À la carte options are available at the bar, and prix-fixe lunch and dinner menus are offered in the main dining room and several private dining spaces.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 633 W. 5th St., 71st Floor, downtown, 213.712.2683 Map H16

BRERA RISTORANTE > Italian $$$ From the team behind the Factory Kitchen, this stylish trattoria (formerly Officine Brera) serves a daily changing, Northern Italy-inspired menu. The rice dishes, spit-roasted meats and handmade pastas are superb. D (nightly). 1331 E. 6th St., downtown, 213.553.8006 Map J17 BROKEN SPANISH > Mexican/Latin $$$ This “modern Mexican” restaurant near L.A. Live serves classically trained chef Ray Garcia’s innovative twists on traditional dishes. Try the oxtail quesadilla and lambneck tamale. D (nightly). 1050 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.749.1460 Map I15 DRAGO CENTRO > Italian $$$ Chef Celestino Drago’s well-executed Italian fare and extensive wine list are presented in a contemporary and handsome space. L (M-F), D (nightly). 525 S. Flower St., downtown, 213.228.8998 Map H16 THE FACTORY KITCHEN > Italian $$$ Former Valentino chef Angelo Auriana turns his attention to a casual, industrial-chic setting in the Arts District.

Fresh-made pastas, beautiful cheeses and cured meats, complemented by an inventive cocktail program, contribute to a daily changing menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 1300 Factory Place, Suite 101, downtown, 213.996.6000 Map J17 GUERRILLA TACOS > Mexican/Latin $$ Chef Wes Avila’s lauded taco truck recently put it in park to open a brick-and-mortar space in the Arts District, complete with a bar and patio. B (M-F), L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 2000 E. 7th St., downtown, 213.375.3300 Map J17 KENDALL’S BRASSERIE AND BAR > French $$$ Located at the Music Center, Kendall’s is a convenient spot for before or after a performance. In addition to dishes with a contemporary flair, all the brasserie favorites are here. L (M-F), D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7322 Map H16 L.A. PRIME > Steak $$$$ Enjoy city views, wet-aged steaks and an award-winning wine list at the Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites’ 35th-floor restaurant. D (nightly). The Westin Bonaventure Hotel & Suites, 404 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.612.4743 Map I16 LE PETIT PARIS > French $$$ The L.A. iteration of David and Fanny Rolland’s original Le Petit Paris in Cannes is housed in the historic El Dorado building. By day, the brasserie is bright and tranquil, and at night, it transforms into an upscale lounge. L (W-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 418 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.217.4445 Map I17

CARLA CHOY

SPAGO > California $$$ An L.A. institution, Wolfgang Puck’s flagship restaurant features a modern dining room and a daily changing menu that may include dishes like veal “Wiener schnitzel” and spicy tuna tartare. L (Tu-Sa), D (nightly). 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.385.0880 Map I11

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DINING LITTLE SISTER > Pan-Asian $$ Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s pan-Asian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and salt-and-pepper lobster.

L, D (daily). 523 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.628.3146 Map I16

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ORSA & WINSTON > Eclectic/Fusion $$$$ Chef/owner Josef Centeno draws on Japanese and Italian traditions at this acclaimed restaurant. For dinner, enjoy a daily changing five-course tasting menu with nightly supplements and an optional wine pairing.

L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Sa), Br (Sa-Su). 122 W. 4th St., downtown, 213.687.0300 Map I16 OTIUM > California $$$ French Laundry alum Timothy Hollingsworth helms this modern restaurant adjacent to the Broad museum, preparing rustic, market-driven cuisine such as hamachi with nori and avocado, and a signature black-cod dish. L (TuF), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 222 S. Hope St., downtown, 213.935.8500 Map H16 PATINA > French $$$$ The Walt Disney Concert Hall pairs classical-music offerings with fine dining, thanks to its fine in-house restaurant.

Game dishes are a frequent presence on the menu. D (Tu-Su). 141 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.3331 Map H16 PHILIPPE THE ORIGINAL > Quick Bites $ The purported birthplace of the French dip sandwich, this down-home cafeteria is an L.A. institution, established in 1908. Try the 45-cent coffee. B, L, D (daily). 1001 N. Alameda St., downtown, 213.628.3781 Map G17 Q SUSHI > Japanese $$$$ The omakase-only experience at this intimate sushi bar showcases the artistry and discipline of chef Hiroyuki Naruke in items like seared toro and a parade of simply prepared sushi. These strictly traditional interpretations are never flashy but always rewarding. L (Tu-F), D (TuSa). 521 W. 7th St., downtown, 213.225.6285 Map I16 REDBIRD > American $$$ Chef Neal Fraser’s contemporary American cuisine is offered in the rectory of the former Cathedral of St. Vibiana. Updated Spanish Baroque decor and retro-inspired cocktails complete the scene. D (nightly), Br (SaSu). 114 E. 2nd St., downtown, 213.788.1191 Map H17 ROSSOBLU > Italian $$$ Chef Steve Samson and wife Dina are behind this gorgeous Italian restaurant in City Market South, a new complex in the up-and-coming Fashion District, where Samson serves Bolognese family favorites. D (nightly), Br (Su). 1124 San Julian St., downtown, 213.749.1099 Map J16 TERRONI > Italian $$ Reliable Southern Italian cooking, including excellent thin-crust pizza, from a Toronto-based chain. Great happy-hour specials. The downtown location inhabits a historic bank building. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su).

802 S. Spring St., downtown, 213.221.7234 Map I16 WP24 > Pan-Asian $$$$ From its 24th-floor roost, WP24 proves that Wolfgang Puck, who pioneered Asian fusion, has still got the goods. Highlights include XO seafood dumplings and steamed bao filled with pork belly. The restaurant offers some of downtown’s best skyline views. Restaurant/ lounge concept Nest at WP24 is adjacent. Dining room: D (Tu-Sa). Nest: D (nightly). The Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles, 900 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.743.8824 Map I15 WURSTKÜCHE > Quick Bites $$ Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, buffalo with Luxardo cherries and mint. Open late. L, D (daily).

800 E. 3rd St., downtown, 213.687.4444 Map I17

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DINING SALAZAR > Mexican/Latin $$ This trendy taco destination—a colorful desert oasis set in a reworked Frogtown auto-body shop—specializes in outdoor dining, grilled meats and fun drinks. Pair tasty tacos with aguas frescas and cocktails. L, D (TuSu); Br (Sa-Su). 2490 Fletcher Drive, L.A., salazarla. com Map southeast of W23 TROIS MEC > French $$$$ Ludo Lefebvre, Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook are behind this hot restaurant in a 26-seat former pizzeria. Diners must make advance reservations via phone or the restaurant’s website to enjoy Lefebvre’s prix-fixe, multicourse meal. D (Tu-Sa). 716 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.484.8588, troismec.com Map H13

LA BREA / MID-CITY ANIMAL > American $$$ This bare-bones eatery from Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo is a carnivore’s dream. Dishes include delectable takes on offal (such as pig ear). D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 435 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.782.9225 Map I13

Recently opened Emilia (named for northern Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region) is a venture of Amici Brentwood owner Tancredi Deluca in collaboration with developer Rick Caruso, whose posh residential building houses the striking art deco-inspired restaurant. In the morning, guests enjoy cornetti and bombolini or frittatas, while the lunch crowd opts for fresh salads, pastas and panini. Dinner fare might begin with tomatoes paired with velvety burrata followed by veal chop in butter-sage sauce (pictured above) or cacio e pepe-style risotto. Emilia is quickly becoming an all-day favorite in its upscale Beverly Grove neighborhood. 8500 Burton Way, L.A., 424.999.4755, emiliala.com

YANG CHOW > Chinese $$ Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine and an elegant atmosphere has made this restaurant a Chinatown mainstay since the Yun family opened the spot in 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 819 N. Broadway, downtown, 213.625.0811 Map G17

HOLLYWOOD / EASTSIDE ALIMENTO > Italian $$$ Zach Pollack, who recently opened Cosa Buona in Echo Park, is behind this tiny, hip space, where a clever menu includes tortellini in brodo, with dumplings filled with a hot broth. D (Tu-Su), Br (Sa-Su). 1710 Silver Lake Blvd., L.A., 323.928.2888 Map east of W23 APL RESTAURANT > Steak $$$$ At classically trained chef and barbecue expert ­Adam Perry Lang’s steakhouse, starters include new versions of old-school favorites. Chops and steaks like the ribeye, bone-in New York strip and tomahawk chop are all dry-aged on-site. D (nightly). 1680 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.416.1280 Map H14 THE BOURBON ROOM > American $$$ Step into the world of Rock of Ages at this new restaurant and bar. The immersive theatrical and dining experience features dinner and bar service before, during and after performances. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 6356 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, rockofageshollywood.com Map H14 CLEO > Mediterranean $$$ The Hollywood location of this bustling mezze restaurant recently reopened in the new h Club Los Angeles with a menu from chef Martin Heierling. D (nightly). 1717 Vine St., Hollywood, 323.962.1711 Map H14

GWEN > American $$$$ Maude chef Curtis Stone and brother Luke’s restaurant features meat-centric tasting menus served in an art deco dining room, plus a European-style butcher shop in the front that offers sandwiches. L (M-F), D (nightly). 6600 Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.946.7513 Map H14 THE MUSSO & FRANK GRILL > Steak $$$ Hollywood’s oldest restaurant, with a storied history, just celebrated its centennial. Enjoy flannel cakes, lobster Thermidor and Welsh rarebit with the martini; legend has it that this place invented the drink. B, L (Tu-Sa); D (Tu-Su). 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.467.7788 Map H13 NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 3322 W. Sunset Blvd., L.A., 323.665.5899 Map south of W23 PALEY > California $$$ This glamorous restaurant (named after former CBS CEO William S. Paley) pays homage to the golden age of Hollywood. Inside a midcentury-modern dining room, dine on classic dishes with a modern twist. L (M-F), D (M-Sa). 6115 Sunset Blvd., Suite 100, L.A., 323.544.9430 Map H14 PETIT TROIS > French $$$ Trois Mec’s neighboring, French-bar-style spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. A newer, larger outpost also opened in the Valley. L, D (daily). 718 N. Highland Ave., L.A., 323.468.8916 Map H13

PINK’S HOT DOGS > Quick Bites $ There’s a perpetual queue in front of this hot-dog stand, open since 1939, which serves around 30 kinds of dogs and chili cheeseburgers, too. Open late. B, L, D (daily). 709 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., 323.931.4223 Map I13 RÉPUBLIQUE > French $$ Fine-dining veteran Walter Manzke and pastry-chef wife Margarita turn out bistro classics for a trendy clientele huddling at communal tables in a landmark once occupied by Charlie Chaplin’s studio. Café: B, L (daily); Br (Sa-Su). Bistro: D (nightly). 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., 310.362.6115 Map I13

LA CIENEGA BOULEVARD / RESTAURANT ROW BARTON G. THE RESTAURANT > American $$$ The L.A. location of Barton G. Weiss’ Miami Beach restaurant offers fun, showstopping food presentations in a finedining setting, making each meal an experience. Favorites include the Laughing Bird Popcorn Shrimp and cottoncandy dessert Marie Antoinette’s Head. D (nightly). 861 N. La Cienega Blvd., L.A., 310.388.1888 Map I12 THE BAZAAR BY JOSÉ ANDRÉS/SOMNI > Spanish $$$$ Star chef José Andrés brings a whimsical Spanish-style dining experience to SLS Beverly Hills. Somni is billed as a “multi-sensory culinary experience” with a 20-pluscourse tasting menu. Purchase tickets at exploretock. com. The Bazaar: D (nightly). Somni: D (Tu-Sa). 465 La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.246.5555, Somni 310.246.5543 Map H16 CATTLE & CLAW > American $$ Sofitel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills’ laid-back restaurant is a casual-cool spot where diners can enjoy two of the world’s favorite foods: lobsters and burgers (made with locally sourced, farm-fresh beef). Pair with cocktails like the lobster bloody mary, served in Mason jars. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 8555 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.770.1654 Map I12 NOBU > Japanese $$$$ The flagship of chef Nobu Matsuhisa offers an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi, including many dishes with beguiling Peruvian accents. D (nightly). 903 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.657.5711 Map H12

DYLAN + JENI

Benvenuta, Emilia!

JON & VINNY’S > Italian $$ Popular, stylish yet family-friendly diner from chefs/ owners Jon Shook and Vinny Dotolo, which just opened a Brentwood outpost, has it all—pastries, pizza, pasta (made in-house) and meat entrées. Takeout and delivery are also available. B, L, D (daily). 412 N. Fairfax Ave., L.A., 323.334.3369 Map B2

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DINING

Ye Olde King’s Head

World Famous British Pub, Restaurant, Shoppe & Bakery OSTERIA CAL MARE > Seafood $$$ This sophisticated Cal-Italian seafood restaurant from chef Adam Sobel in collaboration with superchef/restaurateur Michael Mina is on the ground floor of the Beverly Center. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 131 La Cienega Blvd., Suite 115, L.A., 424.332.4595 Map I12 THE STINKING ROSE > Steak $$ True to its motto, “We season our garlic with food,” this Restaurant Row mainstay offers eclectic, garlicky menu options and premium steaks. L, D (daily). 55 N. La Cienega Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.652.7673 Map I12 YARDBIRD SOUTHERN TABLE & BAR > Southern $$$ This fried-chicken favorite at the Beverly Center is popular for its made-from-scratch regional Southern fare and cocktails. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 Beverly Blvd., Suite 112, L.A., 323.250.8034 Map I12

MALIBU British Fare, imported beers and world famous Fish & Chips.

Heated patio. Call for soccer schedule. Stop by the gift shoppe for food and collectibles from the British Isles, including bone china, teapots, souvenir items, tea, candy, wine, freshly baked goods and much more.

Open daily for breakfast, lunch & dinner Weekdays 9 am | Weekends 8 am Happy Hour Afternoon Tea Karaoke Trivia Live Soccer

M-F 4-7 pm Mon-Sat 11:30 am-4 pm Su 9 pm Every Wed 8 pm Check Schedule

116 Santa Monica Blvd.

Santa Monica (310) 451-1402 www.yeoldekingshead.com

DUKE’S MALIBU > Seafood $$ Named after the father of international surfing, Duke Kahanamoku, this restaurant features oceanfront views, a daily selection of fresh fish and tropical cocktails. L (M-Sa), D (nightly), Br (Su). 21150 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.0777 Map west of K7 MASTRO’S OCEAN CLUB > Steak $$$$ At this on-the-waterfront eatery, starters like ahi tartare and caviar are followed by Maine lobster and expertly prepared steaks. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 18412 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.454.4357 Map west of K7 MR CHOW > Chinese $$$$ The L.A. County editions of scene-y restaurants in New York, London, Miami, Las Vegas and Mexico City offer Imperial Beijing cuisine. D (nightly). Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Road, 18A, Malibu, 310.456.7600 Map K7 NOBU MALIBU > Japanese $$$$ Chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s coastal restaurant attracts celebrities, as well as serious foodies. Indulge in an extensive menu of traditional and avant-garde sushi.

B (Sa-Su); L, D (daily). 22706 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu, 310.317.9140 Map east of K7

MARINA DEL REY CAFE DEL REY > Seafood $$$ Ogle impressive pleasure boats in the marina at this waterfront restaurant with plentiful fresh catch, a raw bar and prime cuts of steak. It recently unveiled a new menu and look. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey, 310.823.6395 Map N9

PASADENA / GLENDALE ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ This ultraluxurious interpretation of the classic American steakhouse incorporates Asian influences. Certified Angus beef and domestic and imported wagyu star on the menu. D (nightly). 111 N. Los Robles Ave., Pasadena, 626.486.1111 Map Q20 DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. Vegetable dishes like cucumber salad and sautéed string beans are also favorites. L, D (daily). The Americana at Brand, 177 Caruso Ave., Glendale, 818.551.5561; Westfield Santa Anita, 400 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.446.8588; 1108 S. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.574.7068 Map U23, R23 (2) SUSHI ROKU > Japanese $$$ Find nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena, 626.683.3000 Map Q19

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MILO & OLIVE > Pizza $$ The team from Rustic Canyon is behind this casual pizzeria and bakery. Expect to make friends with your neighbors; seating is at communal tables and the bar only. B, L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 2723 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.453.6776 Map K9

Chilled chocolate cake at Birdie G’s

YANG CHOW > Chinese $$ Fine Mandarin and Szechuan cuisine has made this local chain a mainstay since 1977. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp, which have been featured on Food Network. L, D (daily). 3777 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, 626.432.6868 Map Q22

SANTA MONICA 1 PICO > California $$$ This upscale oceanfront dining venue recently relaunched with a new chef and menu focusing on California coastal cuisine. Pair with a handcrafted cocktail or selection from the extensive wine list.

L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). Shutters on the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.587.1717 Map M8 BIRDIE G’S > American $$$ James Beard Award-nominated chef Jeremy Fox’s newest restaurant boasts a large menu of regional American cuisine, served in a former art museum within Santa Monica’s historic gallery complex Bergamot Station.

D (nightly). 2421 Michigan Ave., Santa Monica, 310.310.3616 Map L9 BLUE PLATE OYSTERETTE > Seafood $$$ Putting a “California twist on East Hampton summer lobster bakes,” this restaurant near the Santa Monica Pier specializes in dishes such as oysters on the half shell and lobster rolls. L, D (daily). 1355 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.576.3474 Map L8 BOA STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$ Way hip, way fine steakhouse. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.899.4466 Map M8 CASSIA > Eclectic/Fusion $$$ This Southeast Asian-inspired brasserie, set inside a 1930s art deco building, finds chef Bryant Ng serving dishes like Vietnamese pot-au-feu and grilled pork-belly vermicelli. Esters Wine Shop & Bar is adjacent. D (nightly). 1314 7th St., Santa Monica, 310.393.6699 Map L8 DIALOGUE > California $$$$ James Beard Award-winning chef Dave Beran, formerly of Chicago’s celebrated Alinea, is behind this 18-seat restaurant. One market-driven 18- to 20-course tasting menu is offered; tickets must be prepurchased online.

D (Tu-Su). Gallery Food Hall, 1315 3rd St. Promenade, Second Floor, Santa Monica, dialoguerestaurant.com Map L8 ENTERPRISE FISH CO. > Seafood $$ Established in 1979, this restaurant is a local favorite when it comes to seafood. Wild-caught fish, fresh seafood and steaks are cooked over a mesquite charcoal grill. L, D (daily). 174 Kinney St., Santa Monica, 310.392.8366 Map M9

RUSTIC CANYON > California $$$ Discover boutique wines while sampling small plates of market-driven, Mediterranean-inspired fare. Clam pozole is just one of the winners. Hide in a cozy booth or mingle at the communal table. D (nightly). 1119 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.393.7050 Map L8 SUSHI ROKU > Japanese $$$ Find nouvelle Japanese, sleek decor and a creative menu that includes tuna tartare with yuzu guacamole and soy truffle. L, D (daily). 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, 310.458.4771 Map L8 YE OLDE KING’S HEAD > British/Irish $$ Cozy pub/restaurant with traditional English fare, like the acclaimed fish and chips. B, L, D (daily); high tea (M-Sa). 116 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, 310.451.1402 Map L8

SOUTH BAY / LONG BEACH DIN TAI FUNG > Chinese $$ Foodies line up at this dumpling house for soup dumplings with filling combinations such as pork and crab or truffle and pork. L, D (daily). Del Amo Fashion Center, 21540 Hawthorne Blvd., Suite 519, Torrance, 310.214.1175 Map D2 FISHING WITH DYNAMITE > Seafood $$$ Chef David LeFevre (the Arthur J, M.B. Post) loads his menu with East Coast inspirations here. Among the old-school small plates in this charming restaurant are Maryland blue-crab cakes. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 1148 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.893.6299 Map L13 ISE-SHIMA > Japanese $$ Located in the Miyako Hybrid Hotel in Old Town Torrance, Ise-Shima provides fresh sushi and other exciting Japanese dishes, recalling the array of seafood and marine delicacies Japan’s Ise Shima region offers.

B, L, D (daily). 21381 S. Western Ave., Torrance, 310.320.6700 Map M14 LITTLE SISTER > Pan-Asian $$ Signatures at chef Tin Vuong’s pan-Asian spots include Balinese fried meatballs and salt-and-pepper lobster. M.B.: L (F-Su), D (nightly). R.B.: L, D (daily). 1131 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.2096; 247 Avenida del Norte, Redondo Beach, 424.398.0237 Map L13, M13 LOVE & SALT > California $$$ Dine on creative Cal-Italian fare in this buzzy South Bay spot. Chef de cuisine/pastry chef Rebecca Merhej’s desserts are divine. D (nightly), Br (Su). 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5252 Map L13 M.B. POST > American $$$ Chef David LeFevre serves small plates of seafood, freshbaked breads, delectable vegetables, cured meats and more in the space of a former post office. L (F-Su), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.5405 Map L13 SAUSAL > Mexican/Latin $$ This stylish El Segundo restaurant serves nuevo-rancho cuisine by chef Anne Conness (Jaffa), with an emphasis on wood fire, smoke and slow-roasting methods; Mexican and Spanish flavors; and locally sourced produce. L, D (daily). 219 Main St., El Segundo, 310.322.2721 Map L13

THE STRAND HOUSE > California $$$ This beachside restaurant boasts awesome ocean and pier views and a stylish bar. Executive chef Austin Cobb’s menu highlights coastal California cuisine. L (Tu-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 117 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.545.7470 Map L13 YANG CHOW 2.0 > Chinese $$ This popular local Mandarin and Szechuan chain just opened a more casual Long Beach outpost. Don’t miss the Slippery Shrimp. L, D (Tu-Su). 2930 Clark Ave., Long Beach, 562.982.4288 Map M17

VALLEY ASANEBO > Japanese $$$$ Hidden in a strip mall but Michelin-rated, this cozy sushi bar and restaurant offers memorable sushi and inventive fare like seared toro and uni tempura in shiso leaf.

L (Tu-F), D (Tu-Su). 11941 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, 818.760.3348 Map A1 CASTAWAY > American $$$ Burbank’s fine-dining restaurant boasts expansive views of the Valley, plus a new design and steak-forward menu from Cutthroat Kitchen winner Perry Pollaci. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 1250 E. Harvard Road, Burbank, 818.848.6691 Map north of W21 THE GRILL ON THE ALLEY > Steak $$$ The Grill is a venerable industry hangout, where polished waiters deliver steaks, Cobb salads and other oldschool fare. L, D (daily); Br (Sa-Su). 120 E. Promenade Way, Westlake Village, 805.418.1760 Map west of A1 JOAN’S ON THIRD > American $$ This celebrity-frequented café offers omelets, sandwiches, salads, soups and sweets, plus picnic baskets and gourmet items. B, L, D (daily). 12059 Ventura Place, Studio City, 818.201.3900 Map T18 PETIT TROIS > French $$$ Trois Mec’s French-bar-style spinoff offers an à la carte menu of classic dishes such as a confit-fried chicken leg, croque monsieur and delectable omelet with Boursin cheese. B, L, D (daily). 13705 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, 818.989.2600 Map G10

VENICE FELIX TRATTORIA > Italian $$$ Chef Evan Funke’s trattoria boasts an open kitchen, a wood-fired pizza oven, a Tuscan grill and a glassenclosed, temperature-controlled pasta laboratorio where Funke’s masterpieces—tonnarelli, orecchiette—take shape before diners’ eyes. D (nightly). 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.387.8622 Map M9 GJELINA > Mediterranean $$$ Cal-Med small plates and pizzas are served to chic Westsiders here. It’s one of Venice’s most popular restaurants and the neighborhood’s liveliest patio. B, L (M-F); D (nightly); Br (Sa-Su). 1429 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1429 Map N9 MTN > Japanese $$$ At this California izakaya, foodies perch on bar stools to slurp up bowls of housemade ramen. L, D (daily). 1305 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 424.465.3313 Map N9 NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (W-F), D (W-M). 2533 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 310.301.0333 Map M9 (V) PLANT FOOD + WINE > California $$$ This restaurant from Matthew Kenney takes a raw, locally sourced and plant-based approach to dining.

Pair your meal with a glass of wine from an extensive organic and biodynamic selection. L (M-F), D (nightly),

JIM SULLIVAN

MICHAEL’S > California $$$ Michael McCarty’s influential restaurant, opened in 1979, is refreshed and back in the spotlight. D (M-Sa). 1147 3rd St., Santa Monica, 310.451.0843 Map L8

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CANNABLISS DELIVERED

Br (Sa-Su). 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice, 310.450.1009 Map N9 WURSTKÜCHE > Quick Bites $ Don’t even try to pronounce it—”the sausage place” will do. Bar/restaurant offers thick-cut Belgian fries and a repertory of exotic franks: rattlesnake and rabbit, buffalo with Luxardo cherries and mint. Open late. L, D (daily).

625 Lincoln Blvd., Venice, 213.687.4444 Map M9

WEST HOLLYWOOD BOA STEAKHOUSE > Steak $$$$ Way hip, way fine steakhouse on the Sunset Strip. Steak rubs and dips; out-there cocktails on a revamped bar menu. L (M-F), D (nightly). 9200 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2050 Map H12 DAN TANA’S > Italian $$$ New York-style restaurant, an L.A. classic for over 50 years. Red-sauced pastas, huge steaks. Reservations required. D (nightly). 9071 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9444 Map I11 FIG & OLIVE > Mediterranean $$$ Inspired by Provence, France, and Mediterranean culinary heritage, this restaurant’s cuisine is an ode to olive oil.

Don’t miss the paella noir or the Moroccan free-range chicken. L (M-F), D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8490 Melrose Place, West Hollywood, 310.360.9100 Map I12 KATANA > Japanese $$$ Sunset Strip spot with a sushi bar and robata-style cuisine: open-flame-grilled meat, vegetables, seafood.

Stylish rooms, patio. D (nightly). 8439 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 323.650.8585 Map H12 NIGHT + MARKET > Thai $$ For acclaimed Thai food, head to the WeHo, Silver Lake (Night + Market Song) or Venice outpost (Night + Market Sahm) of this hip spot from L.A.-born chef Kris Yenbamroong. L (Tu-Th), D (Tu-Su). 9043 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.275.9724 Map I12 ROKU > Japanese $$$ This Sunset Strip hot spot from the team behind Sushi Roku presents elevated teppanyaki prepared at interactive grill tables, as well as sushi, inventive omakase offerings and an extensive selection of Japanese whiskeys.

L (M-F), D (nightly). 9201 W. Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.278.2060 Map H12 TESSE > French $$$ Raphael Francois is in the kitchen at Bill Chait’s new restaurant, serving classic French delights updated for 21st-century L.A. Mixologists Julian Cox and Nick Meyer are behind the cocktail menu. D (nightly), Br (Sa-Su). 8500 W. Sunset Blvd., Suite B, West Hollywood, 310.360.3866 Map H12

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WESTSIDE THE APPLE PAN > Quick Bites $$ Move quickly to grab a seat at the counter of this tiny joint, open since 1927. Burger aficionados wax on about the classic, drippy Steakburger and Hickoryburger. Cash only. Open late. L, D (Tu-Su). 10801 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A., 310.475.3585 Map K10 STK > Steak $$$ The One Group’s renowned steakhouse at the W hotel in Westwood offers starters like tuna tartare with Hass avocado, soy-honey emulsion and taro chips, followed by signature savory steaks and seafood platters for the table. D (nightly). W Los Angeles—West Beverly Hills, 930 Hilgard Ave., L.A., 310.659.3535 Map J10

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THE GUIDE / ENTERTAINMENT SPECIAL EVENTS

LOS ANGELES AUTO SHOW Through Dec. 1 Testdrive the auto industry’s latest models and explore 1,000 vehicles at this annual car show—one of the world’s largest. Check website for hours. $6-$35; VIP Guided Tours $35-$85, under 6 free. Los Angeles Convention Center, 1201 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 310.444.1850, laautoshow.com Map I15

Dazzling Displays

The L.A. County Christmas Tree Lighting Ceremony at the newly renovated Music Center Plaza kicks off the month on Dec. 2 (musiccenter.org).

At L.A. Zoo Lights, meet real reindeer, then stroll through a disco-ball forest, a twinkling tunnel and more. Descanso Gardens’ Enchanted: Forest of Light (pictured above) is an interactive nighttime experience that takes you on a 1-mile walk through large-scale light displays. At the Los Angeles County Arboretum & Botanic Garden’s Moonlight Forest, enjoy over 60 displays of larger-than-life lantern art. Along the coast, the South Bay’s Manhattan Beach Holiday Fireworks celebration on Dec. 8 lets kids play in snow before the sky lights up over the pier.

And on Dec. 14, decorated boats set sail after a fireworks show at the 57th annual Marina del Rey Holiday Boat Parade. See listings pp. 62-66.

THE NUTCRACKER Dec. 1, 7-8, 13-15, 20-24, 28-29 The Los Angeles Ballet performs the beloved holiday tale about Clara and her Nutcracker—set in 1912 Los Angeles—at the Alex Theatre, Royce Hall at UCLA, Dolby Theatre and Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center. The Dolby Theatre shows feature performances by the Los Angeles Ballet Orchestra. See website for schedule and ticket information. Alex Theatre, 216 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, 818.243.2539; Royce Hall at UCLA, 10745 Dickson Court, L.A., 310.825.4401; Dolby Theatre, Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300; Redondo Beach Performing Arts Center, 1935 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Redondo Beach, 310.937.6607, losangelesballet.org/the-nutcracker Map T23, I10, H13, L13 UNIQUE MARKETS HOLIDAY POP-UP Dec. 1, 14-15 At Unique Markets’ holiday pop-ups (Nov. 30-Dec. 1 at Hudson Loft, Dec. 14-15 at the Santa Monica Pier), shop the wares of hundreds of the best local independent designers and emerging brands, who’ll be selling home decor, clothing, jewelry, art, food, beauty and wellness items, stationery, kids items and more. There will also be free drinks, snacks, holiday portraits and gift wrapping.

10 am-5 pm. Daily admission $15; VIP $35, under 12 free. Hudson Loft, 1200 S. Hope St., downtown; Santa Monica Pier, 200 Santa Monica Pier, Santa Monica, uniquemarkets.com/losangeles Map J16, M8 ECHO PARK CRAFT FAIR Dec. 6-8 This popular homegrown arts and design event—celebrating its 10th anniversary here—showcases the wares of talented local artisans. Shop for jewelry, clothes, ceramics, perfume and more. A portion of all ticket sales benefit Inner City Arts. Friday Preview Party 6-9 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-6 pm.

Preview Party $35; one day $15; weekend pass $24, under 13 free. Mack Sennett Studios, 1215 Bates Ave., L.A., echoparkcraftfair.com Map W23 CICLAVIA—THE VALLEY Dec. 8 Five miles of L.A.’s normally congested streets turn into a car-free park for a walk and bike tour through Canoga Park, Winnetka and Reseda during this San Fernando Valley iteration of the beloved open-streets event. See website for route details. 9 am-3 pm. Free. 213.355.8500, ciclavia.org MANHATTAN BEACH HOLIDAY FIREWORKS Dec. 8 The picturesque beachside city’s annual holiday celebration features a Skechers-sponsored snow park, a Santa float and live music, capped off by a fireworks show over the pier. Snow park, float 4 pm; fireworks 7 pm. Free (new, unwrapped toy, cash donation or canned foods to benefit the YMCA Adventure Guides Toy Drive requested for snow-park admission).

2 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach, mbfireworks.com Map L13

Guidelines

Map locators at the end of each listing (Map A3; Map H10, etc.) refer to maps in the back of this issue. Compendium includes editors’ recommendations and advertisers.

Index Special Events............. 62

Studio Tours................ 67

Theater........................ 64

Studio Tapings............ 67

Music + Dance.............. 64

Museums..................... 68

Sports.......................... 64

Shopping....................... 70

Attractions................... 64

Explore......................... 72

MARINA DEL REY HOLIDAY BOAT PARADE Dec. 14 The theme of this year’s annual parade of decorated boats, preceded by a fireworks show, is “Kids Make Holidays Bright.” Fireworks 5:55 pm; parade 6-8 pm. Beforehand, enjoy real snow, sledding, arts and crafts, face painting, a live DJ and food trucks in the park from 11 am-4 pm. Free. Burton Chace Park, 13650 Mindanao Way, Marina del Rey, 310.670.7130, mdrboatparade.org Map 09 TOURNAMENT OF ROSES Dec. 26-Jan. 1 Float decorating, Bandfest, Equestfest, Sip & Savor, 131st Rose Parade (Jan. 1, 8 am), 106th Rose Bowl Game (Jan. 1, 1 pm). Free curbside viewing of parade on first-come, first-served basis; grandstand seats for $60-$110 on sharpseating.com. Rose Bowl tickets start at $160.

Check website for detailed schedule, locations and tickets for other events. 626.449.4100, tournamentofroses.com THE BAI HOLIDAY ICE RINK PERSHING SQUARE All month Skate among the skyscrapers at this iceskating rink, which materializes every holiday season at Pershing Square. See website for full schedule of free community and special events, hours, skate-session schedule and prices. 532 S. Olive St., downtown, holidayicerinkdowntownla.com Map I16 ICE PRESENTED BY PLAZA AT SANTA MONICA All month This 8,000-square-foot outdoor skating rink in downtown Santa Monica brings holiday spirit to the beach every winter. M-Th 2-10 pm; F 2 pm-midnight; Sa 10 am-midnight; Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission, including skate rental, $15. 1324 Fifth St., Santa Monica, 310.260.1199, downtownsm.com Map L8 MELROSE ROOFTOP THEATRE All month For the holidays, this alfresco film series is screening family-friendly festive favorites on select weeknights on the rooftop of hot spot E.P. & L.P. Enjoy a custom menu and specialty cocktails from the restaurant, along with views of the Hollywood Hills. VIP Dinner & a Movie package offers a three-course modern Asian meal at E.P. Dinner & a Movie 6 pm; theater opens 7:15 pm; movie 8 pm. $27.50-$35. E.P. & L.P., 603 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, 310.855.9955, melroserooftoptheatre.com Map I12 ROOFTOP CINEMA CLUB All month The U.K.’s “Number One Outdoor Cinema Series” returns to the rooftops of Hollywood’s private NeueHouse and downtown’s Level for its fifth season in L.A. Fill up on street food and drinks while you take in views and enjoy holiday classics both new and old this month. See website for full lineup and schedule. Ages 18+. $17-$25. 6121 Sunset Blvd., L.A.; 888 S. Olive St., downtown, rooftopcinemaclub.com/ los-angeles Map W21, I16

> Citadel Outlets is home to what it claims is the “World’s Largest Live-Cut Christmas Tree”—a fir standing at 115 feet high, off the 5 Freeway. p. 70

S © DESCANSO GARDENS

THE HOLLYWOOD CHRISTMAS PARADE Dec. 1 Welcome the holidays at this annual parade, complete with a concert beforehand and a celebrity grand marshal. The procession winds through Hollywood and features floats, balloons, characters, marching bands and equestrians. Concert 5 pm; parade 6 pm. Grandstand tickets $22-$85. The route starts on Hollywood Boulevard at Orange Drive and travels east to Vine Street, south on Vine to Sunset Boulevard and west on Sunset, back to Orange. 866.727.2331, thehollywoodchristmasparade.org Map H13

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ENTERTAINMENT

AMERICAN CONTEMPORARY BALLET Through Dec. 24 The Nutcracker Suite. Metropolis Los Angeles, 877 S. Francisco St., Upper Level, downtown, 213.304.3408 Map I16 CENTER FOR THE ART OF PERFORMANCE AT UCLA Dec. 5 Bill Frisell & Julian Lage Duo. Dec. 7 DeJohnette/Coltrane/Garrison. Dec. 8 Frank Bruni in Conversation With Sarah Smarsh. Royce Hall, 340 Royce Drive, L.A., 310.825.2101 Map J10

Los Angeles Ballet’s The Nutcracker (p. 62)

THEATER THE GREAT LEAP Through Dec. 1 Tony winner and actor BD Wong directs this new drama about the conflict that arises when an American basketball team travels to Beijing for an exhibition game.

Pasadena Playhouse, 39 S. El Molino Ave., Pasadena, 626.356.7529 Map Q20 MATTHEW BOURNE’S SWAN LAKE Opening Dec. 3 Choreographer Matthew Bourne’s powerful interpretation of Tchaikovsky’s masterpiece is reimagined here, but it retains its iconic elements, including replacing the female corps de ballet with a “menacing male ensemble.” Ahmanson Theatre, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 DISNEY’S FROZEN Opening Dec. 4 The Tony-nominated Broadway musical based on the wintry Disney favorite arrives in Hollywood. Expect to hear the film’s catchy songs, plus an expanded score with a dozen new numbers. Hollywood Pantages Theatre, 6233 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.468.1770 Map H13 A CHRISTMAS CAROL Dec. 4-8 Revisit Charles Dickens’ timeless holiday story of redemption with this mesmerizing one-man performance. Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, 9390 N. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.746.4000 Map I11 THE THANKSGIVING PLAY Through Dec. 6 In Larissa FastHorse’s biting satire, three “woke” white thespians struggle with the task of helming an elementary school pageant about the first Thanksgiving. Audrey Skirball Kenis Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10 KEY LARGO Through Dec. 10 Academy Award nominee Andy Garcia stars in the world premiere of this adaptation of Maxwell Anderson’s Broadway hit and the subsequent Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall-starring noir film. Gil Cates Theater, Geffen Playhouse, 10886 Le Conte Ave., L.A., 310.208.5454 Map J10 AUGUST WILSON’S JITNEY Through Dec. 29 The final play in two-time Pulitzer Prize winner August Wilson’s masterful The American Century Cycle to be seen on Broadway, Jitney follows a group of Pittsburgh men trying to make a living by driving unlicensed cabs, or jitneys.

This acclaimed production won the 2017 Tony for best revival of a play. Mark Taper Forum, 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.628.2772 Map H16 LOVE ACTUALLY LIVE Through Dec. 29 For the Record’s first-of-its-kind, theatrical cinema experience brings the beloved Christmas film Love Actually to life with carols and pop hits performed by an all-star cast of singers and an orchestra. Wallis Annenberg Center for the Performing Arts, 9390 N. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.746.4000 Map I11

DOROTHY CHANDLER PAVILION Through Dec. 15 The Magic Flute, L.A. Opera, composed by Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, conducted by James Conlon/ Grant Gershon. Dec. 24 60th Annual L.A. County Holiday Celebration. 135 N. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.972.7211 Map H16 THE FORUM Dec. 4 ScHoolboy Q: CrasH Tour. Dec. 6 KIIS FM’s Jingle Ball, featuring Katy Perry, BTS, Billie Eilish, Sam Smith, Camila Cabello, Halsey, French Montana, Lizzo, Normani. Dec. 7 Maná: Rayando El Sol Tour 2019. Dec. 14-15 Jonas Brothers: Happiness Begins Tour.

Dec. 21-22 Ariana Grande: Sweetener World Tour. Dec. 27-28 Dead & Company. 3900 W. Manchester Blvd., Inglewood, 310.330.7300 Map O12 STAPLES CENTER Dec. 6 Trevor Noah: Loud and Clear Tour 2019. Dec. 7 ILLENIUM: The Ascend Tour With Dabin + William Black. Dec. 12-15 Disney on Ice: Mickey’s Search Party. Dec. 27 Gabriel Iglesias: Beyond the Fluffy World Tour. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15 THE THEATRE AT ACE HOTEL Dec. 3 U Up? Live.

Dec. 4 Sheryl Crow. Dec. 5 The Revolution. Dec. 6 CAP UCLA presents: Bill Morrison—Dawson City: Frozen Time Live! Composed by Alex Somers, live music performed

by Wild Up. Dec. 12 Jay and Silent Bob Reboot Roadshow, with Jason Mewes and Kevin Smith. Dec. 13-14 She & Him Christmas Tour. Dec. 21 A Holiday Evening With Us the Duo. 929 S. Broadway, downtown, 213.623.3233 Map I16 WALT DISNEY CONCERT HALL Dec. 1 Dudamel Conducts Rachmaninoff & Stravinsky, with Los Angeles Philharmonic, conductor Gustavo Dudamel, pianist Seong-Jin Cho. Dec. 6-8 Beethoven’s “Eroica,” with L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Susanna Mälkki, violinist Leila Josefowicz. Dec. 7, 14 Toyota Symphonies for Youth: The Rite of Spring; Festival of Carols With Eric Whitacre, with Los Angeles Master Chorale, conductor Eric Whitacre. Dec. 8 Los Angeles Children’s Chorus. Dec. 10 A Tribute to Oliver Knussen, with L.A. Phil New Music Group, conductor Susanna Mälkki (Green Umbrella series). Dec. 12-15 Tchaikovsky & Copland With MTT, with L.A. Philharmonic, conductor Michael Tilson Thomas. Dec. 15 O Magnum Mysterium, with L.A. Master Chorale, conductor Grant Gershon. Dec. 17 A Chanticleer Christmas. Dec. 18 39th Annual Messiah Sing-Along, with L.A. Master Chorale, conductor Grant Gershon. Dec. 20 Dianne Reeves: Christmas Time Is Here.

Dec. 21 Holiday Sing-Along, with host Melissa Peterman, conductor John Sutton, Angeles Chorale; Handel’s Messiah, with L.A. Master Chorale, conductor Grant Gershon. Dec. 22 White Christmas Sing-Along, presented by the L.A. Philharmonic and Paramount Pictures. Dec. 23 CeCe Winans.

Dec. 31 New Year’s Eve With Kristin Chenoweth. 111 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 323.850.2000 Map H16

SPORTS DIGNITY HEALTH SPORTS PARK Dec. 15 NFL: Los Angeles Chargers vs. Minnesota Vikings. Dec. 21-22 NFL: Chargers vs. Oakland Raiders. 18400 Avalon Blvd., Carson, 310.630.2000 Map M15 LOS ANGELES MEMORIAL COLISEUM Dec. 8 Los Angeles Rams vs. Seattle Seahawks. Dec. 29 Rams vs.

Arizona Cardinals. 3911 S. Figueroa St., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.747.7111 Map K15

STAPLES CENTER Dec. 1 Los Angeles Lakers vs.

Dallas Mavericks; Los Angeles Clippers vs. Washington Wizards. Dec. 3 Clippers vs. Portland Trail Blazers. Dec. 4 Los Angeles Kings vs. Washington Capitals. Dec. 8 Lakers vs. Minnesota Timberwolves. Dec. 10 Kings vs.

New York Rangers. Dec. 17 Clippers vs. Phoenix Suns.

Dec. 19 Clippers vs. Houston Rockets. Dec. 21 Basketball Hall of Fame Classic presented by Citi. Dec. 22 Lakers vs.

Denver Nuggets. Dec. 23 Kings vs. St. Louis Blues. Dec. 25 Lakers vs. Los Angeles Clippers. Dec. 28 Clippers vs.

Utah Jazz. Dec. 29 Lakers vs. Dallas Mavericks. Dec. 30 WWE Live! Dec. 31 Kings vs. Philadelphia Flyers. 1111 S. Figueroa St., downtown, 213.742.7100 Map I15

ATTRACTIONS AQUARIUM OF THE PACIFIC Focus is on Pacific Ocean sea life. Touch the ocean’s predators in Shark Lagoon and jellies in the Wonders of the Deep gallery, and meet penguins, sea lions and 11,000 other animals.

Daily 9 am-6 pm. $24.95-$34.95, under 3 free. 100 Aquarium Way, Long Beach, 562.590.3100 Map O16 BARNSDALL ART PARK Features Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House, the L.A. Municipal Art Gallery, Barnsdall Art Center, Junior Art Center and Barnsdall Gallery Theatre. Park: daily 6 am-10 pm; Municipal Art Gallery: Th-Su noon-5 pm; Hollyhock House tours: Th-Su 11 am-4 pm.

Hollyhock House tours $3-$7. 4800 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 323.913.4031 Map W22 BATTLESHIP USS IOWA Former battleship is permanently docked as a floating museum. Ongoing exhibit follows the ship’s history through World War II, Korean War and Cold War. Daily 10 am-5 pm; last ticket sold at 4 pm. $11.95-$19.95, under 5 free. Pacific Battleship Center, USS Iowa BB-61, 250 S. Harbor Blvd., San Pedro, 877.446.9261 Map O15 CATHEDRAL OF OUR LADY OF THE ANGELS Stunning contemporary cathedral opposite Music Center. M-F 6:30 am-6 pm; Sa 9 am-6 pm; Su 7 am6 pm. 555 W. Temple St., downtown, 213.680.5200 Map H17 CENTRAL LIBRARY Downtown beaux arts-style landmark is the nation’s third-largest public library in terms of book and periodical holdings. It also holds many archival collections. M-Th 10 am-8 pm; F-Sa 9:30 am-5:30 pm; Su 1-5 pm. Free. 630 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.228.7000 Map I16 CHINATOWN Ornate architecture, dim sum, both traditional and trendy eateries (Howlin’ Ray’s, Baohaus) and shops with Eastern wares surrounding a central plaza. Art and antiques on Chung King Road. Between Cesar E. Chavez Avenue and Bernard Street, Yale and Spring streets, downtown Map G17 DESCANSO GARDENS Collections include coast live oaks, roses, the Oak Woodland, the Ancient Forest, the Japanese Garden and an award-winning camellia garden. M, F-Su 9 am-5 pm; Tu-Th 9 am-8 pm. $4-$9, under 5 free. 1418 Descanso Drive, La Cañada Flintridge, 818.949.4200 Map Q19 DISNEYLAND Mickey Mouse’s theme park. Attractions include Pirates of the Caribbean and new Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge. Disney California Adventure is adjacent. Call for hours. $98-$149, under 3 free. 1313 Disneyland Drive, Anaheim, 714.781.4565 Map D6 DOLBY THEATRE Tour the home of the Academy Awards, formerly named the Kodak Theatre. M-Sa 10 am-5 pm; Su 10 am-4 pm. $18-$23, under 3 free. 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.308.6300 Map H13 EGYPTIAN THEATRE Restored 1922 Hollywood landmark screens classics, cult favorites, indie films. Excellent Forever Hollywood screenings are exclusive to the theater.

Call for schedule and pricing. 6712 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.466.3456 Map H13

REED HUTCHINSON

MUSIC + DANCE

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SPEND THE HOLIDAYS IN BURBANK

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ATTRACTIONS

THE REAGAN LIBRARY PRESENTS

EL PUEBLO DE LOS ANGELES Birthplace of Los Angeles; the site of this historical monument dates to 1781. Historic buildings, 11 of which are open to the public, include 1818 Avila Adobe, L.A.’s oldest. 125 Paseo de la Plaza, downtown, 213.628.1274 Map H17 GRAND PARK Urban park positioned between the Music Center and City Hall offers draws such as a farmers market and community entertainment. Daily 5:30 am10 pm. Free. Entrances at 200 N. Grand Ave., 221 N. Hill St., 221 N. Broadway and 227 N. Spring St., downtown, 213.972.8080 Map H17 GRIFFITH OBSERVATORY Iconic attraction with spectacular views of L.A. and the Hollywood sign.

Hourly shows at planetarium. Tu-F noon-10 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-10 pm. Admission free; planetarium shows $3-$7, under 5 free. 2800 E. Observatory Road, Griffith Park, L.A., 213.473.0800 Map U23 JAPAN HOUSE LOS ANGELES This project from the Japanese Ministry of Foreign Affairs features an exhibition gallery and a Monozukuri Shop with a curated selection of Japanese products, plus a café, a fine-dining restaurant, a library, an event venue and views of L.A. Su 10 am-7 pm; M-Sa 10 am-8 pm. Hollywood & Highland, 6801 Hollywood Blvd., Levels 2 and 5, L.A., 800.516.0565, japanhouse.jp/losangeles Map H13 L.A. LIVE Entertainment center is home to the Grammy Museum, Microsoft Theater and the Novo by Microsoft, restaurants, high-tech bowling lanes and nightspots such as the Conga Room. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.763.5483 Map I15 LOS ANGELES COUNTY ARBORETUM & BOTANIC GARDEN Peafowl roam the grounds and roost overhead at this 127-acre garden. Make your own idyllic route or take a docent-led tour. Daily 9 am-5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm). $4-$9, under 5 free. Free third Tuesday of the month. 301 N. Baldwin Ave., Arcadia, 626.821.3222 Map Q22

• Over 200 authentic artifacts discovered this decade from two ancient cities lost to the Mediterranean Sea over 1,200 years ago • 3 Colossal 16’ sculptures including the god Hapy, Pharaoh & Queen • Stunning ancient religious, ceremonial and commercial artifacts • Precious gold coins and jewelry, bronze vessels and more Organised with the Institut Européen d’Archéologie Sous-Marine with the generous support of the Hilti Foundation and in collaboration with the Ministry of Antiquities of the Arab Republic of Egypt.

Statue : photo Christoph Gerigk©Franck Goddio / Hilti Foundation

REAGANLIBRARY.COM/LOSTCITIES 40 Presidential Dr., Simi Valley, CA 93065 • 800.410.8354

LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST

LOS ANGELES ZOO & BOTANICAL GARDENS Home to more than 250 animal species, many of them endangered, living among immersive habitats and lush gardens. Daily 10 am-5 pm. Ticket sales cease one hour before closing. $16-$21, under 2 free. 5333 Zoo Drive, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.644.4200 Map T23 MADAME TUSSAUDS HOLLYWOOD Get closer to the stars at this world-famous, interactive attraction in Hollywood. Find over 125 figures including celebrities and pop icons, plus 4-D and VR adventures. Daily 10 am-10 pm. $16.99–$30.95, under 3 free. 6933 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.798.1670 Map H13 ORIGINAL FARMERS MARKET Local landmark established in 1934 boasts 120 produce stalls, restaurants and gift shops in open-air setting. Adjacent to the Grove shopping center. 6333 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.933.9211 Map I13 OUE SKYSPACE LA California’s tallest open-air observation deck, at nearly 1,000 feet above the city, boasts 360-degree views and a 45-foot-long glass “Skyslide” from the 70th to the 69th floor. 633 W. 5th St., downtown, 213.894.9000 Map I16 PORSCHE EXPERIENCE CENTER At the luxury vehicle brand’s 53-acre experience center, drivers 21 and over can pilot Porsche’s latest models for 90 minutes on a 4-mile driver-development track, with a pro driving coach riding shotgun. 19800 S. Main St., Carson, 888.204.7474 Map M15 QUEEN MARY Historic ocean liner permanently berthed in Long Beach Harbor offers tours, shops, a hotel, art deco lounge, a 4-D theater and restaurants.

Check queenmary.com for a schedule of special events, hours and prices. 1126 Queens Hwy., Long Beach, 877.342.0738 Map O16

INSPIRE HUMANITY THROUGH TRUTH SPECIAL TOURS MUSEUM ARCHITECTURE December 28 at 1:30 pm AUSCHWITZ ARTIFACTS December 29 at 1:30 pm SYMBOLS OF HATE December 30 at 1:30 pm 100 The Grove Drive, Los Angeles, CA 90036 • lamoth.org • Admission always free

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ATTRACTIONS RONALD REAGAN PRESIDENTIAL LIBRARY AND MUSEUM Visit the Air Force One Pavilion and see a full-size replica of the White House Oval Office. Daily 10 am-5 pm. $15-$25, under 2 free. 40 Presidential Drive, Simi Valley, 800.410.8354 Map northwest of A1

NATURE, ART, CULTURE

SEAWORLD The 189-acre adventure park features thousands of marine animals including fish, reptiles and birds. Open daily; call for hours, ticket packages and discounts. $89.99, under 3 free. Parking $17-$30. 500 SeaWorld Drive, San Diego, 619.222.4732

626-405-2240 | Pasadena-adjacent Tours@huntington.org

TCL CHINESE THEATRE Historic, meticulously restored Hollywood movie palace (formerly Grauman’s Chinese Theatre) with Imax screen and walkway of stars’ handprints and footprints in the forecourt. Visit tclchinesetheatres.com or call for movie schedule. 6925 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, 323.461.3331 Map H13 UNIVERSAL CITYWALK Dining, shopping and entertainment promenade includes eateries such as Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville, Dongpo Kitchen, LudoBird and Voodoo Doughnut; clothing boutiques and novelty stores; a state-of-the-art Universal Cinema and Imax theater; and simulated skydiving wind tunnel iFly Hollywood. Call for hours. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.4455 Map U20 UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Movie-based theme park. Attractions include the new Jurassic World—The Ride; multisensory DreamWorks Theatre Featuring Kung Fu Panda; the Wizarding World of Harry Potter; and the Simpsons Ride. Studio Tour includes Peter Jackson’s King Kong 360 3-D and film and TV sets. Call or check website for hours and prices. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 800.864.8377, universalstudioshollywood.com Map U20

STUDIO TOURS PARAMOUNT PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Group tours of Hollywood’s longest-operating major studio.

Reservations recommended. See website for schedule.

Studio Tour $58, under 10 not admitted; VIP Tour $178, under 10 not admitted; After Dark Tour $78, under 16 not admitted. 5515 Melrose Ave., Hollywood, 323.956.1777, paramountstudiotour.com Map I14 SONY PICTURES STUDIO TOUR Two-hour walking tour of working motion-picture studio includes stages where TV shows and movies including The Wizard of Oz and Spider-Man were filmed. Reservations, photo ID required. M-W, F 9:30 am-2:30 pm; Th 9:30 am-6 pm. $50, under 12 not admitted. VIP Tours also available, starting at $130. Parking free. 10202 W. Washington Blvd., Culver City, 310.244.8687 Map L11

13606 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks 818.990.6128 AbundancePlusSizes.com The only upscale boutique in greater Los Angeles for women size 12 and up.

From comfortable to casual or dressy—classic to funky & fun. Abundance has it all!

UNIVERSAL STUDIOS HOLLYWOOD Legendary studio tour (also see listing under “Attractions”). VIP Experience includes front-of-line privileges, an expert tour guide, a gourmet lunch, visits to the Will & Grace set and other perks. For hours and prices, call or check universalstudioshollywood.com. 100 Universal City Plaza, Universal City, 818.622.3801 Map U20

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Three-hour tour of working TV and film studio includes backlots, prop warehouse, the real Friends Central Perk Full Bar | Sushi Bar set, original Batmobiles and observation of filming (when possible). Sets from The Big Bang Theory were Beverly Hills recently added to the Stage 48: Script to Screen inter(310) 855-9380 active soundstage. Deluxe tour available. Reservations 998 S. Robertson Blvd. recommended; photo ID required. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm.

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STUDIO TAPINGS 1IOTA Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including Jimmy Kimmel Live!, The Late Late Show With James Corden and The Voice, as well as special events. Minimum age 16-18, varies by show. 323.417.6550, 1iota.com

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ATTRACTIONS AUDIENCES UNLIMITED Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows on CBS, Fox, NBC, Netflix and the CW. Minimum age 10-18, varies by show. 818.260.0041, ext. 1, tvtickets.com ON-CAMERA AUDIENCES Free tickets to live tapings of TV shows including America’s Got Talent, Dancing With the Stars and The Price Is Right. Minimum age 12-18, varies by show. 818.295.2700, on-camera-audiences.com

A SPECTACULAR HOLIDAY GIFT!

MUSEUMS THE ANNENBERG SPACE FOR PHOTOGRAPHY Cultural venue dedicated to digital and print photography. W, F-Su 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $3.50, $1 after 4:30 pm and all day Sa-Su. 2000 Avenue of the Stars, Century City, 213.403.3000 Map J11 AUTRY MUSEUM OF THE AMERICAN WEST Museum explores the art, history and cultures of the West and houses one of the top U.S. collections of Native American materials. Tu-F 10 am-4 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $6-$14, under 3 free. 4700 Western Heritage Way, Griffith Park, L.A., 323.667.2000 Map H14 THE BROAD Museum built by philanthropists and art collectors Eli and Edythe Broad contains more than 2,000 works of contemporary art. Tu-W 11 am-5 pm; Th-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa 10 am-8 pm; Su 10 am-6 pm. Free.

Online reservations encouraged. 221 S. Grand Ave., downtown, 213.232.6200 Map H16 CALIFORNIA SCIENCE CENTER Interactive exhibits for budding scientists; Imax theater. Daily 10 am-5 pm.

Permanent gallery, free; admission for Imax varies. Parking $12, $15 after 5 pm. Cash only. 700 Exposition Park Drive, Exposition Park, L.A., 323.724.3623 Map K15 GETTY CENTER Travertine-clad hilltop facility houses collections of paintings, drawings, antiquities, photographs and decorative arts. Fabulous Central Garden and city views. Tu-F, Su 10 am-5:30 pm; Sa 10 am-9 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm. 1200 Getty Center Drive, L.A., 310.440.7300 Map H9 GETTY VILLA Getty Center’s exquisite coastal counterpart features Etruscan, Roman and Greek antiquities.

W-M 10 am-5 pm. Free. Parking $15, $10 after 3 pm.

Advance timed tickets required for entry. 17985 Pacific Coast Hwy., Pacific Palisades, 310.440.7300 Map K7 GRAMMY MUSEUM Museum on L.A. Live campus explores music, the creative and recording processes and Grammy Awards history. Su-M, W-Th 10:30 am-6:30 pm; F-Sa 10 am-8 pm. $10.95-$12.95, under 6 free. 800 W. Olympic Blvd., downtown, 213.765.6800 Map I15 HAMMER MUSEUM UCLA-affiliated museum presents influential traveling shows and installations alongside its permanent collection. Tu-F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm.

Free. 10899 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 310.443.7000 Map J10

HUNTINGTON LIBRARY, ART MUSEUM, AND BOTANICAL GARDENS Art, buildings and grounds, with more than a dozen themed gardens; several dining concepts; a beautiful gallery; and an education and visitor center. W-M 10 am-5 pm. $13-$29, under 4 free. 1151 Oxford Road, San Marino, 626.405.2141 Map R21 KIDSPACE CHILDREN’S MUSEUM Celebrating 40 years, this museum for kids ages 1-10 offers more than 40 fun hands-on exhibits, programs and monthly events on almost 3.5 acres of indoor and outdoor space. M-F 9:30 am-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $14, under 1 free. 480 N. Arroyo Blvd., Pasadena, 626.449.9144 Map Q18

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HOLLYWOOD MUSEUM In the historic Max Factor Building, steps from the Walk of Fame, the Hollywood Museum houses 10,000 authentic showbiz treasures that showcase 100 years of Hollywood’s entertainment industry. W-Su 10 am-5 pm. $5-$15. 1660 N. Highland Ave., Hollywood, 323.464.7776 Map H13

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SHOPPING LA BREA TAR PITS AND MUSEUM Watch paleontologists at work uncovering ice age L.A. Among the main attractions are the ever-bubbling tar pits, which make up the world’s most famous fossil-excavation site. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $7-$15, under 3 free. 5801 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.934.7243 Map J13 LOS ANGELES COUNTY MUSEUM OF ART The largest art museum in the western U.S., with diverse, superb collections housed on a 20-acre campus.

M-Tu, Th 11 am-5 pm; F 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-7 pm. $16-$25, under 18 free. 5905 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.857.6000 Map J13

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LOS ANGELES MUSEUM OF THE HOLOCAUST The West Coast’s largest collection of Holocaust-era artifacts housed in an award-winning architectural building.

Interactive exhibits, public tours and Holocaust survivor talks. Sa-Th 10 am-5 pm; F 10 am-2 pm. Free. Pan Pacific Park, 100 The Grove Drive, L.A., 323.651.3704 Map I13 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART Premier contemporary-art museum housed in two facilities: MOCA Grand Avenue and the Geffen Contemporary. M, W, F 11 am-6 pm; Th 11 am-8 pm; Sa-Su 11 am-5 pm. $8-$15, under 12 free. MOCA Grand Avenue, 250 S. Grand Ave., downtown; The Geffen Contemporary at MOCA, 152 N. Central Ave., downtown, 213.626.6222 Map H16, H17 MUSEUM OF TOLERANCE Exhibits on prejudice and discrimination, legacy of the Holocaust, humanrights issues and Anne Frank’s life and legacy. Su-F 10 am-5 pm. $11.50-$15.50. Anne: $12.50-$15.50. Under 5 free. 9786 W. Pico Blvd., L.A., 310.772.2506 Map J11 NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM OF LOS ANGELES COUNTY Thirty-three million objects, from dinosaur fossils to fish. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. $5-$12, under 3 free. 900 Exposition Blvd., Exposition Park, L.A., 213.763.3466 Map K15 PETERSEN AUTOMOTIVE MUSEUM Museum displays about 135 vintage cars, trucks and motorcycles.

Daily 10 am-6 pm. $8-$16, under 3 free. Tours of vault $20-$30, under 10 not admitted. 6060 Wilshire Blvd., L.A., 323.930.2277 Map J13 SKIRBALL CULTURAL CENTER Cultural venue highlights the American Jewish experience through engaging exhibitions and programs. The award-winning Noah’s Ark attraction is great for tots. Tu-F noon-5 pm; Sa-Su 10 am-5 pm. $7-$12, under 2 free, free Thursdays.

2701 N. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.440.4500 Map G9

SHOPPING THE AMERICANA AT BRAND Downtown Glendale hot spot from the creators of the Grove with 90 stores; a Main Street, U.S.A., atmosphere; and a trolley. Toms and & Other Stories are among the 90 or so stores.

Dining options include Din Tai Fung and Bourbon Steak

by Michael Mina. 889 Americana Way, Glendale, 818.637.8900 Map U23 BEVERLY CENTER Trendsetting mall just completed a multimillion-dollar renovation. It has more than 100 boutiques (Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana) and is anchored

by Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. New dining options include Angler from chef Joshua Skenes, Cal Mare, Farmhouse, Yardbird Southern Table & Bar, Pitchoun!, Eggslut and Easy’s diner. 8500 Beverly Blvd., L.A., 310.854.0070 Map I12 CITADEL OUTLETS Assyrian architecture south of downtown stands out along the Golden State (5) Freeway; the center offers discounted clothes from Coach, Levi’s and Converse, to name just a few. 100 Citadel Drive, L.A., 323.888.1724 Map B4 THE GROVE Outdoor center is home to 40 shops including Apple, Nordstrom and new Charlotte Tilbury and restaurants including 189 by Dominique Ansel,

L.A.’s must-see holiday light experience is back — with dazzling new additions for the 2019/2020 season. Explore this fantastical, wildlife-inspired wonderland while enjoying seasonal sights and delights under the stars at the L.A. Zoo.

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EXPLORE

MALIBU COUNTRY MART Outdoor center with upscale boutiques including Paige and Victoire, plus Cie Sparks salon and restaurants. Malibu Lumber Yard and Malibu Village are adjacent. 3835 Cross Creek Road, Malibu, 310.456.7300 Map northwest of K7

BEVERLY HILLS RENT-A-CAR Luxury and exotic rentals. 9732 S. Santa Monica Blvd., Beverly Hills, 310.274.6969; 6085 Venice Blvd., Hollywood, 310.659.5555; LAX, 9220 S. Sepulveda Blvd., L.A., 310.670.2020, bhrentacar.com Map K12, J11, O10

20 CENTURY

CATALINA EXPRESS Year-round boat service to Catalina Island. Up to 30 daily departures from Long Beach, Dana Point, San Pedro. Reservations recommended. Call or check website for hours and prices. 800.481.3470, catalinaexpress.com DODGER STADIUM TOUR Behind-the-scenes tour of the legendary stadium allows guests to visit the field, dugout and the Lexus Dugout Club, home to the Dodgers’ World Series trophies and other awards. $15-$20, under 4 free. 1000 Vin Scully Ave., L.A., 866.363.4377 Map G17

PALISADES VILLAGE The newest shopping destination from Caruso (the Grove, Americana at Brand) is an upscale walkable village home to over 40 uniquely curated boutiques including Amazon Books, Jennifer Meyer and Veronica Beard, as well as fresh dining options and a restored historic movie theater. 15225 Palisades Village Lane, Pacific Palisades, 310.525.1380 Map K7

EXOTICS RACING LOS ANGELES SUPERCAR TOUR Known for top-notch driving experiences, Exotics Racing lets you explore Los Angeles while enjoying the luxurious drive of a Ferrari 488, a Lamborghini Huracan, a McLaren 570S and a Maserati Gran Turismo. Tours offered Su-F 8:30 am-7 pm. 120 Broadway, Santa Monica, 310.220.2671, exoticsracing.com Map M8

PLATFORM Collection of cult-favorite retailers (Velvet, Aesop, Tenoverten, Bird) in Culver City’s up-and-coming Hayden Tract neighborhood. Delicious dining options include Loqui and Roberta’s. 8850 Washington Blvd., Culver City, platformla.com Map M11

HORNBLOWER CRUISES & EVENTS Dine, dance and take in beautiful harbor views aboard one of Hornblower’s cruises. Choose from sunset dinner, cocktail and Champagne brunch options. Fisherman’s Village, 13755 Fiji Way, Marina del Rey, 855.290.0383, hornblower.com Map O9

THE POINT Small, upscale outdoor shopping center features trendy retailers including Planet Blue, Lucky Brand and Madewell; top eateries (True Food Kitchen, Umi by Hamasaku, Superba Food + Bread); and fitness destination SoulCycle. 850 S. Sepulveda Blvd., El Segundo, 310.414.5280, thepointsb.com Map L13 SANTA MONICA PLACE Sleek outdoor mall at the south end of Third Street Promenade anchored by Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. More than 80 boutiques, including Lorna Jane and Rimowa, plus a rooftop Dining Deck and ArcLight Cinemas. 395 Santa Monica Place, Santa Monica, 310.394.1049 Map L8

TH

MELTING POT FOOD TOURS Tasting tours of foodie destinations such as Thai Town, the Original Farmers Market and select restaurants. Private tours available. Reservations required. 424.247.9666; tickets, 800.979.3370, meltingpottours.com METRO City bus, light rail and subway. Rail lines connect downtown, Santa Monica, Hollywood, Pasadena, Long Beach; underground Red Line from Union Station through Hollywood to San Fernando Valley; Gold Line from Union Station to East L.A. and through Pasadena to Azusa; Blue Line from downtown to Long Beach; Green Line from Norwalk to Redondo Beach; Expo Line from Santa Monica to downtown. 323.466.3876, metro.net

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WESTFIELD CENTURY CITY Open-air shopping center fresh from a $1 billion revitalization has more than 175 stores including Compartés Chocolatier and Equipment; a luxe AMC multiplex with Imax screen; a food-court atrium and terrace; and the West Coast’s first Eataly. 10250 Santa Monica Blvd., L.A., 310.277.3898 Map J11

LOS ANGELES CONSERVANCY This preservation organization based in DTLA offers more than a dozen walking tours of historic sites—including Union Station and Angelino Heights—with a focus on architecture.

213.623.2489, laconservancy.org

E

THE VILLAGE AT WESTFIELD TOPANGA Lifestyle destination across the street from Westfield Topanga shopping center offers stylish retailers (Rent the Runway, Fabletics), restaurants, a Burke Williams spa and more. 6250 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Woodland Hills, 818.594.8732 Map west of A1

50 YEARS OF ICON FASHION

WARDROBE DESIGNS COSTUMES MEMORABILIA AND CULTURE

N 6, 20 PE R OMBE

TWO RODEO Center with cobblestones in the heart of Beverly Hills features luxury boutiques including Jimmy Choo and Tiffany & Co., plus fine art gallery Galerie Michael and restaurant 208 Rodeo. 9478 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills, 310.247.7040 Map J11

CELEBRATING

EC

THIRD STREET PROMENADE Pedestrian-only shopping zone includes shops (Anthropologie, Cotton On, Zara), kiosks and entertaining street performers. 1351 3rd St. Promenade, Santa Monica, 310.393.8355 Map L8

A Pointer Sister Collection

D

SOUTH COAST PLAZA High-end center in Orange County boasts nearly 300 boutiques (Chanel, Gucci, Alexander McQueen and Givenchy) and 40 restaurants, including Water Grill. Concierge at four locations. 3333 Bristol St., Costa Mesa, 800.782.8888 Map E6

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MANHATTAN VILLAGE This premier shopping center just completed a $12 million interior renovation and now boasts luxe seating areas and a new, 168,000-squarefoot Macy’s. Dining options include California Pizza Kitchen and other healthy, casual options. 3200 Sepulveda Blvd., Manhattan Beach, 310.546.5555 Map L13

LEGENDS

AR Y

all in a setting inspired by a grand old downtown. The movie theater, trolley and dancing fountain are additional draws. Adjacent to Original Farmers Market. 189 The Grove Drive, L.A., 888.315.8883 Map I13

METROLINK Regional train system connects L.A. County with Ventura, Orange and San Diego counties.

Six of seven Metrolink rail lines (including the Orange County lines, San Bernardino lines and Ventura County lines) begin at Union Station in downtown L.A. 800.371.5465, metrolinktrains.com STARLINE TOURS Celebrity-tour company offers Movie Stars’ Homes tours throughout the day, as well as tours to beaches, theme parks and more. The CitySightseeing double-decker hop-on, hop-off tour makes more than 70 stops around L.A. Prices vary. Tours begin at TCL Chinese Theatre, 6925 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 800.959.3131, starlinetours.com Map H13 TMZ CELEBRITY TOUR, HOLLYWOOD Two-hour bus tour highlights celebrity hot spots in Hollywood, Beverly Hills and on the Sunset Strip, brought to life with videos from TMZ’s on-air stories and the occasional star sighting. Daily 9 am-6 pm. $32-$52, children under 2 not permitted. 6822 Hollywood Blvd., L.A., 844.TMZ.TOUR (869.8687), tmztour.com Map H13

EXPLORE AMTRAK Train and bus service within the county, along the coast and to major California locations, with nationwide connections. 800.872.7245, amtrak.com

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Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer and all related elements © & TM under license to Character Arts, LLC. All rights reserved. ™/© 2019 Sesame Workshop. All rights reserved. © 2019 SeaWorld Parks & Entertainment, Inc. All rights reserved.

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30 THINGS WE LOVE THIS MONTH

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1 Ice skating blocks from the ocean at Ice Presented by Plaza at Santa Monica. p. 62 2 Giving back while you shop at The Cause Collection. p. 9 3 Bold, sculptural pieces at celebrity-favored jewelry brand Hoorsenbuhs’ flagship. p. 26 4 Drinking your way around

the globe during Bazaar Flights at The Bazaar by José Andrés’ Gate: Bar Centro. p. 58

5 Shopping for unique, locally made gifts at Echo Park Craft Fair from Dec. 6-8. p. 62

9 Coastal Italian cuisine at chefs Adam Sobel and Michael Mina’s Osteria Cal Mare, at the Beverly Center. p. 19

16 The stunning new V DTLA—

10 American Contemporary

17 Beer, board games and

Ballet’s immersive, multisensory take on The Nutcracker Suite in DTLA. p. 64

11 Dining on lomo saltado on the pretty, plant-filled patio at Ricardo Zarate’s Rosaliné. p. 20 12 Gingerbread mai tais from master mixologist Chris Amirault at Otium. p. 57

a coffee shop/restaurant/ lounge inside a former 1920s jewelry store. v.restaurant

vegan pub grub at Tony’s Darts Away in Burbank. p. 11

Robbins in the Actors’ Gang production of 1984, through Dec. 7. theactorsgang.com

7 A very indie Christmas with

21 Live music at the Echo, followed by a slice at Nancy Silverton’s Triple Beam Pizza in Echo Park. p. 40

8 Comfy basics at Everlane’s

15 Michelin-starred chef Dave Beran’s new Parisian bistro, Pasjoli, in Santa Monica. p. 19

22 Festive ice cream flavors at the newest L.A. location of Salt & Straw, in Old Pasadena. p. 44

new Abbot Kinney shop. p. 28

Canyon chef Jeremy Fox’s newest restaurant, Birdie G’s. p. 60

26 Chic dry cuts at master stylist Jon Reyman’s newly expanded Spoke & Weal. p. 30

with Broadway star Kristin Chenoweth at Walt Disney Concert Hall. p. 64

She & Him at The Theatre at Ace Hotel, Dec. 13-14. p. 64

24 Matzo ball soup at Rustic

19 Catching Oscar winner Tim

ture at pop-up museum Sneakertopia, at HHLA. sneakertopia.com

14 Celebrating New Year’s Eve

Brunch, every Sunday this month at Wolfgang Puck’s WP24. p. 57

dens at nighttime, lit up for Enchanted: Forest of Light. p. 64

25 Letting it go at Disney’s Frozen, opening Dec. 4 at the Pantages Theatre. p. 64

20 Traveling through chef

from Insomnia Cookies’ first L.A. location. p. 32

23 Exploring Descanso Gar-

18 Stepping into sneaker cul-

13 Warm cookies and milk

6 Sky-high Sunday Kitchen

29

Helene An’s past at her new dining concept, Da Lat Rose. p. 19

27 Fried chicken sandwiches at David Chang’s new Fuku. p. 28

28 Catching Katy Perry, BTS and Billie Eilish during Jingle Ball at The Forum on Dec. 6. p. 64 29 Supporting state parks with Parks Project’s new Californiacentric clothing collection. p. 15

30 Sunset views from OUE

Skyspace LA in the U.S. Bank Tower building. p. 66

ACROSS THE WORLD WhereTraveler® is an inter­national network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in over 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at www.wheretraveler.com. UNITED STATES Atlanta, Boston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Jacksonville/St. Augustine/Amelia Island, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Miami, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, St. Louis, Tampa, Tucson, Washington, D.C. ASIA Singapore AUSTRALIA Brisbane, Gold Coast, Melbourne, Sydney CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Muskoka/ Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Berlin, Budapest, Istanbul, London, Madrid, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

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