Where Traveler San Francisco, Fall 2020

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

FALL

2020

SHOPPING FOR ALL SEASONS SMALL-TOUR EXPERIENCES STOCKING UP FOR PICNICS IN THE PARK

Open-Air Adventures

WHERE TO ENJOY THE FLAVORS AND CHARACTER OF THE CITY THROUGH ITS GREAT OUTDOORS

M A DE BY H A N D. SH A PED BY HISTORY

150 POST STREET, SAN FRANCISCO (415) 421-2600 STANFORD SHOPPING CENTER, PALO ALTO (650) 327-2211 SHREVE.COM

FALL

2020

CONTENTS DEPARTMENTS Where Now City Tours Maps 30 Things We Love

4 6 14 45 48

THE GUIDE Shopping Art Dining Attractions & Explore Wine Country

25 28 30 38 42

10 Golden Gate Bridge

24

Cowgirl Creamery at the Ferry Building

SAN FRANCISCO BAY AREA

FALL

2020

SHOPPING FOR ALL SEASONS SMALL-TOUR EXPERIENCES STOCKING UP FOR PICNICS IN THE PARK

Open-Air Adventures

WHERE TO ENJOY THE FLAVORS AND CHARACTER OF THE CITY THROUGH ITS GREAT OUTDOORS

ON THE

COVER The Palace of Fine Arts, one of the city’s great outdoor landmarks.

FEATURE

10 Scenic Hikes

The confluence of exciting topography and jaw-dropping scenery means San Francisco has more than its share of trails where both the hike and the view will get your heart pumping. BY SPUD HILTON

12 Tours de Force

Experiencing the best of San Francisco and its amazing attractions safely is easier with some great tour options that emphasize small groups, personalized trips and being outdoors. BY SPUD HILTON PLEASE CHECK WEBSITES OR CALL BUSINESSES FOR COVID-19-RELATED UPDATES BEFORE ACTING ON INFORMATION PRINTED IN THIS ISSUE.

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FROM TOP: SPUD HILTON; NATALIE AND CODY GANTZ. COVER: DAN HENSON/SHUTTERSTOCK.COM

Ask the Expert

CHRISTOPHER¯CLARK FINE ART

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FeaturinG Dürer, WhiStler, renoir, mucha, chaGall , miró, Dalí, FranciS, motherWell, calDer, lichtenStein, hirSt, Stella anD otherS 377 Geary Street

San FranciSco

clarkFineart.com

415.397.7781

INSIDER TIPS

Ask the EXPERT

Chef Concierge & Director of Heritage Fairmont San Francisco

Q: Where do you send guests who want to experience nature without leaving the city?

A: Golden Gate Park is great. And the Academy of Sciences houses the amazing Aquarium among other exhibits, where you can see manatee and even an albino alligator named Claude.

Q: Where do you send your guests who want to see great views?

A: Being at the top of Nob Hill gives you a great view right out of the gate, but there are little pockets in the neighborhood, such as Vallejo Street just above Jones, a small street that dead ends in a tiny vest pocket park with a panoramic view of the Bay. Also any bay cruise has breathtaking vistas.

Q: Where would you send your guests to find a truly surprising side of San Francisco?

A: Treasure Island has amazing views and was the site for the 1939 World’s Fair. The island has a wonderful, very casual restaurant called Mersea, where you can have a great meal

PRESIDENT

Q: Do you have a favorite guest experience that is close to your heart?

A: Alcatraz, which I like so much I made a video about it. It’s so interesting, and has so many facets, plus everyone knows about it. Just be sure to book in advance.

EDITOR

Jeff Levy

GROUP PUBLISHER NORTHERN CALIFORNIA

Nikki Wood Spud Hilton ART DIRECTOR

Carol Wakano PRODUCTION ARTIST

Diana Gonzalez DIGITAL MANAGER

Whitney Lauren Han

Q: When the situation returns to a new normal, what are you most looking forward to?

A: Interacting with clients, and using our know-how and experience to reinvent the wheel and find a way to create experiences for our guests in such a way that we continue the very personalized touch.

Q: What are some of your favorite things to do in the fall?

A: Fall in San Francisco beats autumn in New York, as far as I’m concerned.

First, we have “Indian Summer” which brings us sunny skies and warm weather right into the late fall.

Typically, around the first and second week of October is Fleet Week, one of my favorite events. And for those seeking a more hands-on nautical experience, I suggest chartering your own boat for a trip around San Francisco Bay. You can stop at Angel Island for a picnic, head over to Sam’s in Tiburon, or my favorite, the Trident in Sausalito. All of these places have docking facilities. It’s an incredible photo op, and a great way to know what it is like to sail on the Bay. If it does start to cool off, be sure to have a mandatory Irish Coffee at the Buena Vista Café at Hyde and Beach streets.

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Benjamin Epstein

ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Mary Goll, Kerry Brewer, Jean Greene, Jessica Levin Poff BUSINESS MANAGER

Leanne Killian Riggar MARKETING/PRODUCTION MANAGER

Dawn Kiko Cheng CIRCULATION/SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER

Kathy Murray

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4 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

M. CHRISTINE TORRINGTON PHOTOGRAPHY

TOM WOLFE

and enjoy the view and the great atmosphere of being in the center of the Bay.

W A LT E R Q U I R T

JOSÉ BASSO

CK CONTEMPORARY ORIGINAL PAINTINGS AND SCULPTURE

246 POWELL STREET SAN FR ANCISCO 415 . 397.0114 CKCONTEMPOR ARY.COM

JUAN ESC AURIA Z A

JAMIE PERRY

WHERE NOW SPRING FALL

DINING

Pack a Picnic For a city that’s only 7 by 7 miles, San Francisco offers a remarkable number of places to enjoy the outdoors; it also has a reputation for great food, and it only makes sense to combine the two. Whether for a picnic in the park or brunch on the beach, fall is a great time to enjoy a meal outdoors. Fortunately, a few prime spots around town specialize in cuisine you can carry.

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Bi-Rite Market

The boutique-sized grocery store is stacked almost to the ceiling with quality goods, many under the Bi-Rite label. It also offers fresh produce, a deli-and-meat counter, a surprisingly large selection of wine and beer, aged cheeses, artisanal breads, made-to-order sandwiches and a grab-and-go case full of prepared salads, hummus, olives and jars of pot de creme. The store is a block from popular Mission Dolores Park and opposite the beloved Bi-Rite Creamery ice cream shop. 3639 18th St., 415.241.9760, biritemarket.com

Sunrise Deli

This unassuming spot offers Mediterranean staples ideal for a carry-out feast a block away in Golden Gate Park. Consider chicken or lamb shawarma or veggie falafels to go; round out the repast with pints of mujadarra, lentil soup, pickled turnips, dolmas and cucumber-andyogurt salad (above). 2115 Irving St., 415.664.8210, sunrisedelisf. com. Also downtown: 54 2nd St., 415.495.9999, sunrisedelisf.com

ABOVE RIGHT AND OPPOSITE: BI-RITE FAMILY OF BUSINESSES. SPUD HILTON (2)

Molinari Delicatessen

Not only is this one of the most enduring Italian businesses in North Beach, it is one of the oldest delis in the United States. It’s famous for its menu of take-out sandwiches featuring Old Country flavors, such as the popular Luciano Special with Parma prosciutto, sweet coppa, fresh mozzarella, sun-dried tomatoes and onions on grilled focaccia bread. Or create your own antipasto course with cured meats, cheeses, artichoke hearts and olive oil—and enjoy it two blocks away in Washington Square Park.

373 Columbus Ave., 415.421.2337, molinaridelisf.com

Deli Board

This petite cafe is a hot property with SOMA’s tech-worker crowd, in large part because of the long list of meaty, savory, spicy sandwiches with fresh ingredients and creative names. The “$$$,” for instance, is packed with corned beef, brisket, kosher salami, cherry peppers, Muenster cheese, cheddar cheese and coleslaw on a french roll. The menu—which can change daily and is posted online—includes salads that are inventive takes on standards, topped with housemade dressings. 1058 Folsom St., 415.552.7687, deliboardsf.com

PORTABLE FEASTS More top spots for sandwiches and other picnic fare.

Turner’s Kitchen 3505 17th St. B (Mission District), 415.621.3505, turnerskitchensf.com Guerra's To-Go 345 Taraval St. (West Portal), 415.564.5201, guerrastogo.com Lucca Delicatessen 2120 Chestnut St. (the Marina), 415.921.7873, luccadeli.com Seakor Polish Deli 5957 Geary Blvd. (the Richmond), 415.387.8660 Jane the Bakery 1881 Geary Blvd. (Western Addition), 415.658.7971, itsjane.com

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WHERE NOW FALL

SHOPPING The North Face >Sprawling brand-focused emporium with enough room to hold apparel for any season that San Francisco can muster up on any given day.

180 Post St., 415.433.3223, thenorthface.com REI >Outdoors retailer with everything from hiking boots to tent stakes, but also a wide range of clothing for all seasons, including Columbia, Mountain Hardware, Marmot and REI’s own brand. 840 Brannan St., 415.934.1938, rei.com Icebreaker Touchlab Union Square >This New Zealand company’s bread and butter is Merino wool garments that are both warmer when they need to be and still breathe well. 170 Post St., 415.399.9615, icebreaker.com

GOT YOU COVERED SAN FRANCISCO IS NOT EASY TO PACK FOR—and the weather in fall doesn’t make it much easier, especially if you plan to spend time outdoors.

Some visitors pack for a New England autumn and are greeted by Dallas summer; others prep for California’s Mediterranean climate and end up with a day of bone-chilling wind and fog. Both can happen in the same week. You can find plenty of quick-fix, inexpensive options for cooler clothes, as well as gear for bundling up, at the ubiquitous corner drug store—but why not instead shop for more fashionable apparel that you can proudly wear at home as well? Here are half a dozen options for great shops in San Francisco that tend to stock all-weather gear year-round.

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Patagonia >The well-known brand’s North Beach shop offers outdoor apparel for the gamut of needs, from yoga to surfing to mountain biking. 770 North Point St., 415.771.2050, patagonia.com Goldwin >Boutique shop for a stylish, hip international brand that focuses on “city dwellers who commune with the nature on weekends.” 444 Jackson St., 628.221.2342, goldwin-sports.com

COURTESY MISSION WORKSHOP

The Magnus hoodie from Mission Workshop.

Mission Workshop >San Francisco-based boutique brand has its only brick-and-mortar store in the Mission, focused on hip, sturdy and incredibly wellmade backpacks and apparel.

40 Rondel Place (alley off of 16th Street), 415.864.7225, missionworkshop.com

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Scenic Hikes

by SPUD HILTON

At 47 square miles, San Francisco might be one of the smallest major cities in the United States (New York City, by comparison, is 302 square miles). But it has something many other major cities don’t: geography. It’s big on hills and natural wonders. Mount Davidson, the highest natural point in the San Francisco city limits, is higher than any spot in five of the country’s states. That often translates into dramatic scenery and trails with their fair share of ups and downs; it’s no surprise that the city has great hikes where both the walk and the view will get your heart pumping.

Batteries to Bluffs This trail on the Presidio’s rugged western coastline weaves among the bluffs and beaches and the longsilent gun batteries of the former military base. It drops down from Lincoln Boulevard, a portion of the California Coastal Trail, via a series of stairs and paths among wildflowers, dune grasses and scrub brush.

Explore Battery Crosby, a one-time gun emplacement that these days is the military equivalent of a ghost town. The landscape and views of the coast make it easy to forget you’re in a big city—though you can’t get lost because some portion of the Golden Gate Bridge is nearly always visible. Along the way,

watch for signs for a side trail down to isolated Marshall’s Beach.

The route eventually climbs back up and ends at Lincoln Boulevard.

If you continue a quarter mile more on the coast trail, it leads to Battery West, sprawling Battery Godfrey and the Golden Gate Overlook, one of the best vantage points for Instagram shots of the majestic bridge. »The southern trailhead is on Lincoln Boulevard, just north of Baker Beach, across the road from the trailhead to the Immigrant Point Overlook. presidio.gov

Twin Peaks The trails on Twin Peaks are not about escaping the urban landscape

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so much as offering the best view of it. From the 922-foot summits of Eureka Peak and Noe Peak, San Francisco is laid out in every direction, with the grand boulevard Market Street pointing to the heart of downtown. Saying this 64-acre city park has trails might be a little charitable: Twin Peaks Boulevard leads up to the peaks and the Christmas Tree observation point (the road was closed at press time) and the only “trails” are stairs up to the peak tops or down to civilization. Twin Peaks sometimes holds back the coastal fog, so there’s a chance the view might be, well, fluffy and white. Dress in layers. »Stairs also climb from Crestline Drive, south of Parkridge Drive, to the park.

ABOVE RIGHT: MASON CUMMINGS / PARKS CONSERVANCY. OTHERS: SPUD HILTON

Clockwise from far left: Stairs for climbing Twin Peaks; Land’s End Trail; the Batteries to Bluffs Trail; coastal flora.

It’s also possible to walk up Twin Peaks Boulevard from Burnett Avenue, but there’s no sidewalk, just a bike lane. sfrecpark.org

Fort Funston Fort Funston is a windswept wedge of 200-foot bluffs, rolling dunes and the southern portion of Ocean Beach known as Funston Beach. It all seems serene considering the former military outpost was home to batteries of 16-inch guns and Nike missiles. The California Coastal Trail within Fort Funston meanders south from the Great Highway through the grassy dunes before climbing to the top of the bluffs and the hulking Battery Davis. Past the battery, there’s

less protection from the breeze—the wind is so reliable, there’s a platform for launching hang gliders near the park’s south end. The trail works its way back down to the beach. »There’s a parking lot and restrooms off of Skyline Drive, south of John Muir Drive. The northern trailhead is on the Great Highway, near Skyline Boulevard. parksconservancy.org

Land’s End and Coastal Trails The view from Land’s End is a reminder that the Golden Gate Bridge is actually inset from the California coast by about 2 miles and that most of that distance is hikeable.

The Land’s End Trail, from Land’s End to Eagle Point, is the first leg.

The trail winds along the bluffs with postcard-worthy views of the rocky coastline, the Marin Headlands and, of course, the bridge. The route dips into denser woodlands, making it seem like the city is worlds away; it’s actually a 9-iron swing from the third hole at Lincoln Park Golf Course.

About midway, a set of stairs and a trail lead down to Mile Rock Beach and the Instagram-worthy Land’s End Labyrinth. After more stairs and paths, the trail hits Eagle Point lookout then ends at Lincoln Highway. »Parking is easiest at the USS San Francisco Memorial lot at the end of El Camino del Mar. Descend the stairs to the Eastern Overlook to access the Coastal Trail. parksconservancy.org

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tours DE FORCE THE BEST EXPERIENCES FOR THESE TIMES ARE ON PERSONAL TOURS, IN SMALL-GROUPS AND, PREFERABLY, OUTDOORS. by Spud Hilton

Golden Gate Tour // Seaplane Adventures A 30-minute flight takes couples and small groups up for airborne views of the Marin headlands, the Point Bonita Lighthouse and the Golden Gate Bridge. Flights begin and end in Sausalito. The seaplane traces a path over Crissy Field, downtown San Francisco, Giants home Oracle Park, Alcatraz and historic Angel Island. seaplane.com

LEFT: COURTESY SEAPLANE ADVENTURES. CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: COURTESY LUCKY TUK TUK; BLAZING SADDLES; AVITAL TOURS; GOCAR

Private Craft Beer Crawl // Lucky Tuk Tuk Visit three award-winning local breweries in an electric, threewheeled, open-sided transport that carries four to six passengers.

The drivers are professional guides who provide a narrative about the neighborhoods, local history and, of course, the craft beers. lucky-tuk-tuk.com

Golden Gate Bridge Electric Bike Tour // Blazing Saddles Families and small groups can tour the most recognizable bridge on the planet with a little boost from an electric-assisted bike. The three-hour guided itinerary, ideal for beginner and intermediate riders, includes the city of Sausalito and historical commentary about the San Francisco Bay. blazingsaddles.com

Golden Gate Park & MORE // GoCar Roll past the city’s famed sights in the two-person GoCar, which guides riders with GPS-activated directions and offers recorded commentary on the area’s history and culture. Highlights of the three-hour trip include Golden Gate Park, the Golden Gate Bridge, Fort Point, the Presidio, the Legion of Honor, Fisherman’s Wharf and the storied Haight-Ashbury. gocartours.com

Outdoor Food Tour // Avital Tours Guests travel in their own vehicle— or in a GoCar for an additional fee—for four-course progressive meals through the North Beach, Chinatown and Financial DistrictEmbarcadero neighborhoods, picking up food from restaurants as they go. Highlights, enjoyed in outdoor setttings, include Michael Mina’s sushi bento box and Tyler Florence’s buttermilk fried chicken sandwich. An audio guide provides background on the restaurants and chefs. avitaltours.com FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 13

CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Fisherman’s Wharf POPULAR PORT DISTRICT STILL A HUGE DRAW FOR FANS OF OLD-SCHOOL SEAFOOD, NEW ATTRACTIONS AND PEEKS AT THE CITY’S PAST It’s unlikely the Italian immigrant fishermen who built up the original Fisherman’s Wharf in the 19th century could have foreseen what it would become: the most popular dining, shopping and entertainment district for San Francisco visitors.

Although in fairness to their legacy, it still serves its original purpose. Peek behind the curtains of shops, bistros, attractions and diversions, and you still find a home base for fleets of commercial

and sport fishing boats loaded with whatever catch comes in from season to season. For a glimpse, check out the fishing docks at the base of Pier 45, behind Alioto’s restaurant, as well as the working docks on Pier 47.

It’s easy to tap into the history, culture and characters of Fisherman’s Wharf by following the Port Walk, a series of historical markers along the waterfront from Pier 41 to Hyde Street. Also, experience the neighbor-

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hood’s heritage through San Francisco Maritime National Historical Park, from the murals and models at the ship-shaped Maritime Museum, to the Hyde Street Pier, an outdoor museum with a fleet of vessles predominantly from the 1800s.

TIP: Attractions, cafes and museums around Fisherman’s Wharf are evolving to comply with healthy practices, so call or check online first.

ATTRACTIONS For those whose love of sea life goes beyond seafood, the Aquarium of the Bay at Pier 39 offers a close-up view of a world under the waves, including two clear tunnels that give an underwater perspective of species that live in San Francisco Bay.

Visitors can experience the bay from the opposite angle on the neighboring Flyer San Francisco, a high-tech ride that simulates soaring over the city’s biggest landmarks.

Pier 39 also is where to find the wild sea lions that 30 years ago took up residence next door on floating docks. Observation stands provide a front-row view of a population that can grow to 900 in winter.

Jefferson Street, the main strip in Fisherman’s Wharf, is home to visitor-favorites Madame Tussaud’s Wax Museum, and the San Francisco Dungeon, a guided, theatrical experience that focuses on city history.

At Pier 45 is Musée Méchanique, a warehouse with more than 300 mechanical toys

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: SPUD HILTON (2); COURTESY OF VISIT FISHERMANSWHARF; SYLVIA MATZKOWIAK/SF TRAVEL; SPUD HILTON

and amusements from coin-operated pianos to antique slot machines.

Fisherman’s Wharf also is the launching point for the ferries to Sausalito, Angel Island and Tiburon, as well as for the tour boats to Alcatraz and bay cruise boats. Among them is the Bay Voyager, a rigid-inflatable boat (8 passenger limit) that explores the city’s coast and distant parts of the bay.

DINING The two main concentrations of restaurants in Fisherman’s Wharf are at Pier 39 and along Jefferson Street, including near the fishing fleet docks where there’s a cluster of oldschool seafood restaurants (some owned by the same families for generations), including Alioto’s, Cast-

agnola’s, the Grotto, and Scoma’s on Pier 47. On Pier 39, a variety of bistros have expanded to outdoor dining, including Fog Harbor Fish House, the Wipeout Bar & Grill, Swiss Louis Italian & Seafood and the Luau Lounge.

Among the other culinary highlights on Jefferson Street is the Boudin Bakery complex, where the famous sourdough rounds are always available to take home or take to the park for a picnic. Walk a block up Hyde Street to the famous Buena Vista Cafe, either to dine outside or to get some take-out and nosh in Victorian Park across the street. Either way, get a creamy Irish coffee at the cafe where the drink was invented. Down the street at San Francisco

icon Ghirardelli Square, original home to the famous chocolate, there are good options for outdoor dining, including dim sum at Palette Tea House and pints at San Francisco Brewing Co. Don’t leave without getting ice cream from the Ghirardelli Chocolate Marketplace.

RECREATION Because Fisherman’s Wharf is so popular with visitors, it also is a hot spot for choices on how to experience and get around the city. Just up Hyde Street from the Buena Vista, visitors can rent bikes or electric-assisted bikes at Blazing Saddles for pedaling over the Golden Gate Bridge, rolling down the Embarcadero or exploring the Presidio. Other ways of

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Produce at the pier; Pier 39 flags; Pier 39 visitors; fishing docks; bakers at Boudin Bakery.

getting around: Segway tours with Electric Tour Company; GPS-guided tours in a GoCar; or up and down the hills with San Francisco Jeep Tours.

If walking is the way to go, it’s easy to find a slice of local life—and some great scenery— exploring Aquatic Park, a beach and waterfront area protected by the municipal pier. Walk out to the end of the curved pier for closer views of the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and the ships at Hyde Street Pier.

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Union Square DISTRICT AROUND SAN FRANCISCO’S PLAZA IS THE HEART OF DOWNTOWN AND A DRAW FOR SHOPPERS, FOODIES AND THEATER FANS Originally a vacant sandlot ringed by 19th century homes, churches and social clubs, Union Square today is the heart of downtown San Francisco and one of its most beloved outdoor spaces. The square itself, modeled after the grand plazas and piazzas of Europe’s great cities, today is surrounded several blocks deep by some of the biggest names in fashion, art, jewelry, hospitality, theater and dining.

The square earned its name while it served

as a meeting place for supporters of the Union during the Civil War, and the 97-foot monument at its center, raised in 1904, is dedicated to Admiral Dewey’s victory at Manilla Bay during the Spanish-American War. During the 20th century, it and the surrounding neighborhood evolved into a destination for locals and visitors alike, bustling day and night.

Two of the neighborhood’s top attractions, the Cable Cars that trundle past the square on Powell Street, and the

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theater district are scheduled to resume operation, but were not running as of press time.

ART The sculpture topping the Dewey monument is of the Greek goddess Nike, holding a trident in one hand and a wreath in the other and was based on a poor, young model, Alma de Brettville (who went on to marry sugar baron Adoph Spreckels, one of the wealthiest men in San Francisco at the time).

The monument also was dedicated to President William McKinley, but he didn’t live long enough to see it completed.

The square holds one of the highest concentrations of the heart-shaped sculptures of the “Hearts in San Francisco” project

that were painted by Bay Area artists and that raised millions for a local hospital foundation. One of most Instagrammed hearts on the square is titled “America’s Greatest City By the Bay,” painted by singer Tony Bennett who made the city synonymous with hearts with the hit song “I Left My Heart in San Francisco.” Other artists and luminaries who have painted hearts include Phil Frank, Hung Liu and Roy de Forest.

The neighborhood around Union Square has become well-known among art enthusiasts for the collection of fineart galleries, including many within two blocks of the square. Visitors will find works by Renoir and Manet (Christo-

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: UNION SQUARE B.I.D.; SCOTT CHERNIS PHOTOGRAPHY; UNION SQUARE B.I.D.; SPUD HILTON (2)

pher-Clark Fine Art), Warhol and Lichetenstein (Meyerovich Gallery), Basquiat and Dalí (Martin Lawrence Galleries), as well as European contemporary art (CK Contemporary) and fine art glass

by Chihyuly and Marioni (Montague Gallery).

Also, visitors should take a moment to walk up Stockton Street and peek between the Apple Store and the Grand Hyatt San Francisco at Ruth Asawa’s San Francisco Fountain, a whimsical bronze sculpture from 1970 that features dozens of iconic city scenes.

SHOPPING A quick 360-degree glance from the Dewey monument helps illustrate why Union Square has become a huge draw

for shoppers. Macy’s takes up one horizon, while Apple, Tiffany & Co. and Saks Fifth Avenue take up another. Add in the massive Nike store on one corner and Neiman Marcus on the next, as well as the scores of galleries and boutiques only a block or two away, from Williams-Sonoma to The North Face to Shreve & Co. jewelers.

A side trip down Powell Street offers UNIQLO Union Square, Urban Outfitter and Sephora and, eventually the shopping-heavy stretch of Market Street that includes brand-boutique shops for names such as Timberland and Doc Martens, as well as the Westfield San Francisco Centre, a mall with more than 200 shops and

restaurants. The center is anchored by the West Coast-flagship Bloomingdale’s and Nordstrom.

DINING

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Westin St. Francis; Union Square; Tony Bennett’s heart; Neiman Marcus; the Dewey monument.

San Francisco has a reputation for great dining, although many of the city’s best spots are evolving to meet state and local policies. As of press time, for a sit-down experience, try 620 Jones, a chic cocktail bar with southern-comfort menu and an outdoor, terrace. A popular outdoor spot during the day is Emporio Rulli, a cafe on Union Square with coffee, pastries and sandwiches. Chic French-Vietnamese restaurant Le Colonial has dining on its open-air patio. At the base of the Post Hotel, the Honey Honey Cafe & Crepery is a good bet for

breakfast and lunch.

The square offers spots to sit and nosh on lunch.

Among the better options for takeout and delivery is New Delhi Restaurant, a family owned spot close to the square with traditional Indian cuisine, as well as Hops & Hominy, a hip restaurant with inventive comfort cuisine from the South.

TIP: As of press time, restaurants can offer takeaway drinks, but state law requires that food must be purchased with it.

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CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Presidio FORMER ARMY BASE IS A CITY WITHIN A CITY, WITH PARKS, RESTAURANTS, MUSEUMS, ART AND SOME OF THE BEST VIEWS IN THE STATE It seems odd to be thankful that past military leaders, from Spanish conquistadors to Cold War-era U.S. generals, took up so much space in San Francisco. But if the Presidio had not been a military base for 219 years, the prime, scenic real estate at the southern end of Golden Gate Bridge would almost certainly be covered with mansions, resorts and condos. Instead, the Presidio, with its great swaths of forests, beaches and bluffs, is part of the National Park Service and

protected as such.

The sprawling park, which is more than 5 percent of San Francisco’s total area and is larger than Golden Gate Park by a third, first opened as a Spanish Imperial Outpost in September 1776. After expanding and passing first to Mexico then to the United States in 1848, the U.S. Army base was decommissioned in 1989 and designed a National Historic Landmark District five years later. Since then the Presidio Trust has overseen efforts to find new uses for historical

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buildings and revitalize the 300-acre forest and open spaces.

The Presidio today is four separate pieces: the Main Post area, including the original post, the visitors center and the old Letterman Hospital grounds; Crissy Field, the northern waterfront with rehabilitated wetlands; the southern wilds area, home to the natural forests, trails and the golf course; and the Golden Gate area, including Baker Beach, Fort Point and Fort Winfield Scott.

TIP: Most facilities for visitors are evolving to meet state and local guidelines, so call or go online first to verify if sites are open.

HISTORY & ART The strongest reminders of the Presidio’s storied

past are the exhibits at the Officer’s Club, now a museum and event space, the displays in the visitor’s center at the Main Post, monuments to World War II and the Korean War, the crumbling artillery batteries on the coast and, of course, the San Francisco National Cemetery, final resting place for more than 30,000 personnel, including Civil War generals, buffalo soldiers and a Union spy.

Among the quirky, lesser-known sites at the Presidio is the pet cemetery on McDowell Avenue under the Presidio Parkway viaduct, where from the 1950s through the ’70s, families living on base interred hundreds of pets, including dogs, cats, hamsters and a parakeet named Knuckle Head.

The park also houses public art by Andy Goldsworthy, who from 2008 to 2014 created four installations--Tree Fall, Earth Wall, Wood Line and Spire--meant to reflect the relationships among city, nature, people and place, and were created to complement the natural landscape.

For slightly more literal works, visitors to Letterman Digital Arts Center can find bronze statues celebrating film pioneer Eadweard Muybridge; television inventor Philo T. Farnsworth; and Yoda, a Jedi Master.

SPUD HILTON

ATTRACTIONS Among the top draws at the Presidio is the parade ground of the Main Post, in part for the sprawling lawn that’s perfect for

picnics or relaxing in the sun, but also for the nearby Walt Disney Family Museum. The captivating museum, which isn’t affiliated with Disney corporations, illustrates the entertainment mogul’s humble beginnings, innovations and successes, and is built into one of the Presidio’s historical redbrick barracks, looking on the outside pretty much as it did 120 years ago.

For photographers and Instagramers, a big draw is the Golden Gate Overlook, a spot chosen for one of the most compelling views of the massive bridge. The spot is on Lincoln Boulevard near Ralston Avenue.

Crissy Field, the former airstrip that in recent decades has been returned to beaches

and natural wetlands, has become a top draw, both for visitors and locals who want to relax, hike, bike or picnic in one of the most picturesque settings in the state. The only direct routes from the Presidio proper to Crissy Field are Halleck Street near the main post, and McDowell Avenue from the old cavalry stables. There are plenty of walking and biking trails in Crissy Field, including one that follows the waterfront west to Fort Point, the Civil Warera fortress at the bridge’s south anchorage.

For visitors seeking more recreation, there’s an extensive network of trails through the Southern Wilds area, as well as the Presidio Golf Course.

Trails also follow the Pacific coastline among

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Parade grounds; Crissy Field wetlands; Visitor Center; Fort Winfield Scott; pet cemetery.

the bluffs and beaches (see story on p. 10), offering stunning scenery.

DINING As of press time, a good bet for outdoor dining is Sessions at the Presidio, a gastropub focused on comfort food and craft beer. Typically, other options on the Main Post are the Commissary, an elegant bistro specializing in small plates and cocktails; and Arguello, a modern dining room in the Officer’s Club with a Mexican-inspired menu.

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 19

CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Embarcadero THIS GRAND BOULEVARD IS THE CITY’S BEST FOR STROLLING, ROLLING, RIDING AND DINING, ALL THANKS TO A REALLY BIG EARTHQUAKE It turns out the Loma Prieta earthquake was the best thing to ever happen to the Embarcadero.

Before the 1989 temblor, the waterfront avenue was hidden under a raised freeway, a dark, charmless street lined with industrial wharves and crumbling piers. With the freeway long since torn down the Embarcadero today is one of San Francisco’s true jewels, a sweeping boulevard with bistros, palm trees, historical streetcars, public art and pedestrian piers, all of which makes it a great place to spend

a day by the bay.

At its center is the Ferry Building, which before the Golden Gate and S.F.-Oakland Bay bridges were built was one of the busiest passenger ferry terminals in the United States. Now it is a vast marketplace, lined the length of two football fields with shops and restaurants, and the clock tower is one of the city’s most enduring landmarks (it survived the Loma Prieta quake and the 1906 earthquake and fire).

The Embarcadero is a prime route for strolling

20 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

or biking—it’s probably the longest street you can walk without running into a hill in this town— and offers striking views of many of the most beloved icons, including Coit Tower and the Transamerica Pyramid.

The Embarcadero also has dedicated lanes for the F Line or E Line streetcars, rehabbed antique trolleys from other cities in the world that run up and down Market and along the Embarcadero either toward Fisherman’s Wharf or south toward Oracle Park.

TIP: Odd-number piers are north of the Ferry Building, even-number piers are to the south; and while the bay side of the city tends to be warmer and less windy than the Pacific

side, it’s best to dress in layers anyway—in case Karl the Fog decides to come along.

RECREATION If the 2 miles between Pier 23 and Oracle Park isn’t enough walking, there are some great detours, including two pedestrian piers—637foot Pier 14 and 840-foot Pier 7—that jut out into the bay, offering new angles of both the bay and the city. There’s also a portion of the San Francisco Bay Trail that hugs the waterfront, along public promenades and through and around some of the piers. There’s a dedicated bike lane for much of the Embarcadero, so renting wheels is a popular way to explore.

Places to stop and

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: AMY SNYDER/EXPLORATORIUM; NATALIE AND CODY GANTZ (3)

admire the view include pint-sized Rincon Park, a slice of meadow recognizable by the 60-foot-tall bow and arrow sticking out of the ground, a public art piece called Cupid’s Span. Farther south, beyond the Bay Bridge anchorage is Brannan Street Wharf Park and South Beach Park past Pier 38. Another highlight of the Embarcadero is the Exploratorium, a handson museum focused on science and nature.

DINING Dining in and around the Embarcadero is as varied as the boulevard is long.

Among the casual options is Pier 23 Cafe, a popular spot for oysters, fish tacos, hot chowder and cold cocktails on the laidback patio over the water.

Also with an outdoor patio is La Mar, a chic dinner spot serving authentic Peruvian cuisine with an emphasis on seafood.

Down the road are Epic Steak steakhouse and its seafood-serving neighbor, Waterbar, both of which have outdoor dining with a front-row view of the Bay Bridge and the Bay Lights, a dazzling art display of 25,000 LED lights on the side of the bridge that starts around sunset.

If the weather’s good (fall typically is the warmest season), consider an evening picnic outside with upscale takeout from two of the city’s bestknown bistros, Boulevard and One Market, each about a block from the Embarcadero. Down the road beyond the Bay Bridge anchorage,

are the Hi Dive Bar and Red’s Java House, two authentic, old-school San Francisco joints known for cold drinks and nomuss menus of pub-grub seafood and burgers.

Red’s has a large outdoor patio over the water.

Whether dining in, taking out or taking home, the Ferry Building is itself a foodie destination. Among the scores of shops are vendors specializing in artisanal cheeses, meats, bread, chocolate and olive oil, including local favorites Cowgirl Creamery, Dandelion Chocolate, McEvoy Ranch and Mariposa Baking Company.

TIP: The Ferry Building set up outdoor seating, making it easier to have a D.I.Y. picnic with goods from the shops.

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: The Exploratorium; farmers market; the Ferry Building; Heath Ceramics in the Ferry Building.

A good bet for outdoor tables on the waterfront side is the popular Hog Island Oyster Company, specializing in all manner of oysters, clams and seafood stews. Facing the city is Gott’s Roadside, a Napa Valley staple with upgraded comfort food (burgers, shakes, onion rings) and a long list of California wines.

Visitors have even more options on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays when vendors set up out front for the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market.

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 21

CITY TOURS FIND THE BEST IN

Sausalito A WEALTH OF WATERFRONT DINING, BOUTIQUE SHOPS, GALLERIES AND STUNNING VIEWS MAKE THIS ARTSY ENCLAVE A GREAT DAY-TRIP OPTION Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge, from San Francisco’s urban scene to the untamed nature of the craggy Marin Headlands, the first sign of civilization is Sausalito. Which is odd, since much of the town’s history hasn’t been so much about civilization as escaping it. Wedged on a slice of land between the hills of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and Richardson Bay, Sausalito is a quirky, homey, artsy anecdote to city life, where the pace is decidedly slower and the landscape more intimate.

Over the years, the town has passed through periods influenced by Prohibition bootlegging, legal gambling, construction of the Golden Gate Bridge, a shipyard during World War II, waves of artists, Beats and hippies, a quirky floating enclave of houseboats, and sailing culture with a mile of marinas. The result today is a waterfront hamlet filled with shops specializing in art, wine, gifts and artisanal foods, as well as a collection of restaurants, from chic to no-frills, that offer dining over the

22 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

bay with a view of Angel Island and its historic structures. Add on a ferry terminal that welcomes day-trippers over from San Francisco or Tiburon and direct access from the bridge, and it’s easy to see why Sausalito is such a draw for day-trippers and overnighters.

DINING Because of the town’s narrow profile, most diversions line an avenue called Bridgeway, which stretches from Richardson Street downtown all the way to Marin City. Along the way are some of the Bay Area’s best restaurants with waterfront, outdoor dining, including the Trident, Scoma’s of Sausalito and, farther up the road, Salito’s Crab House & Prime Rib. On the other

side of Bridgeway, options for sit-down dining range from the upscale Tuscan menu at Poggio Trattoria to inventive takes on Mexican cuisine at Copita Taqueria to casual sandwiches and pizza at Venice Gourmet & Giovanni’s Pizza, which looks out on the promenade.

Two enormously popular options for fans of fish—but with very different takes on it—are longtime landmark Sushi Ran, often ranked among the best in the Bay Area, and Fish, a laid-back seafood cafe near the yacht club with an outdoor patio and a loyal following.

If outdoor dining looks more like stolling and noshing or sitting on one of the many benches along the promenade with manchego cheese, sour-

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK.COM; SPUD HILTON (3)

dough and an amazing view, a good place to stock up is Sausalito Bakery & Cafe across from the promenade.

Consider also Golden Gate Market and Driver’s Market, both of which have deli counters and carry top-shelf cheeses, salads, breads and other supplies. For dessert, get a taste of the islands with a scoop of Kona Mocha Chip or Hawaiian Sea Salt Caramel from Lappert’s Ice Cream & Yogurt, a beloved branch of the Hawaii-based premium ice cream company.

ATTRACTIONS Sausalito is attractive to day-trippers who come over on the ferry in part because the downtown is easily walkable; most of the town’s popular sites

are within a 10-minute stroll from the ferry docks.

Closest to the docks and the picturesque marina is Viña del Mar Park, a grassy plaza with a grand fountain and two 14-foot elephant statues originally from the 1915 PanamaPacific International Exposition in San Francisco.

Just south of the plaza is a block of boutiques, gift shops, cafes and art galleries, including Hanson Gallery Fine Art, which at press time also was offering vodka tastings. Farther south is the promenade, a quarter-mile sidewalk at the water’s edge with unobstructed views of Angel Island on the left and San Francisco in the distance.

For visitors with a car, it’s worth driving north to the opposite end of

Bridgeway and marina with Sausalito’s famous houseboat community.

The floating neighborhood grew from the closing of the Marinship shipyard at the end of World War II when a few industrious souls took from the leftover wood, steel and other supplies to build makeshift homes on Richardson Bay. After a few decades of waring between local authorities and what were essentially watery squatters, the result is a peaceful neighborhood with some wildly eclectic and unorthodox architecture, including houseboats made from a former 1889 steam schooner and another from a 1900 Pullman railcar. (Otis Redding is said to have written “Sittin’ on the Dock of the Bay” while staying on a

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Waterfront walkway; statue on Viña del Mar Park; Poggio Trattoria; Sausalito Bakery & Cafe.

houseboat here in 1967.)

Drivers headed south from downtown should follow the road to the former Fort Baker, which first opened in 1866 and sits near the north anchorage of the Golden Gate Bridge.

The base’s historical structures, built from 1901 to 1915, have been preserved as Cavallo Point, a luxury resort that loops around the original parade ground. It’s an easy walk down to the Moore Road Pier and one of the best up-close views of the majestic bridge.

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 23

FALL

THE BEST IN S.F.

ALFRESCO AT THE FERRY BUILDING

Indulging in gourmet fare from the Ferry Building’s shops and cafes is easier now with newly expanded, outdoor seating areas around the historical building. The front and back plazas are home to more than 70 tables, spaced 10 feet apart, where guests can dine on takeaway meals or goods from specialty shops.

One Ferry Building, 415.983.8030, ferrybuildingmarketplace.com

CALL FIRST Editor’s note: In recognition that everything in San Francisco is still evolving on a daily basis, we strongly urge readers to call or check details online for every shop, gallery, restaurant, tour company and attraction listed in The Guide.

Many businesses had not reopened or resumed operation at press time, and for many that have, there are significant changes in policies and practices. Those places that are ready are eager for your business, but please assume that you will be required to use a face mask and that you should keep a safe social distance while enjoying this magical city.

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LEFT: NATALIE AND CODY GANTZ. OPPOSITE PAGE: SPUD HILTON

THE GUIDE

SHOPPING

Retail Returns at Westfield

Stores are gearing up for fall shopping at Westfield San Francisco Centre, one of the city’s premier shopping destinations. Shops and restaurants in the Centre, which is home to 200 brands, are offering a range of services, from in-store shopping to browsing by app and curbside delivery. Among the businesses with in-store service are Bloomingdale’s, Aritzia and Abercrombie & Fitch. Check online for a full list or call for the availability and hours of specific shops.

865 Market St., 415.512.6776, westfield.com/sanfrancisco

ACCESSORIES & BAGS

APPAREL

CHROME This company’s mission was simple: create bags that are practical and functional. Street-tested by professional messengers and urban commuters, Chrome makes bags, footwear and apparel that adapt to unpredictability.

962 Valencia St., 415.874.9232, chromeindustries.com

AZALEA BOUTIQUE This youthful, trendy boutique offers designs for men and women by the likes of Alexander Wang, A.P.C. and Richer Poorer, as well as an impressive inventory of denim. 411 Hayes St., 415.861.9888; 956 Valencia St., 415.682.6988, azaleasf.com

MISSION WORKSHOP Chic, industrial storefront in the Mission with its own brand of “technical lifestyle cycling bags and apparel” that is all designed and made in San Francisco.

Clothing, bags and accessories are both rugged and stylish.

541 Valencia St., 415.864.7225, missionworkshop.com TIMBUK2 This boutique carries messengers, laptop bags, backpacks, luggage, totes and accessories in limited-edition designs.

Customers can choose their own color combinations and play with specialty fabrics. 506 Hayes St., 415.252.9860; 587 Shotwell St., 415.321.6806, timbuk2.com

MARINE LAYER This clothing company sells luxuriously soft sweatshirts, tees and scarves that are made in San Francisco from sustainable materials 2106 Chestnut St., 415.400.4136; 1572 California St., 415.970.5785; 498 Hayes St., 415.829.7519, marinelayer.com

BOOKS, MUSIC & ELECTRONICS AMOEBA MUSIC This institution has one of the largest selections of CDs, DVDs, videos, vinyl records, enamel pins, turntables, stickers and vintage rock posters anywhere. It also hosts live music performances that range in genre and are

RED LISTINGS IN THE GUIDE ARE FEATURED ADVERTISERS

all-ages. 1855 Haight St., 415.831.1200; 2455 Telegraph Ave., Berkeley, 510.549.1125, amoeba.com CITY LIGHTS BOOKSTORE Co-founded by poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti, this independent bookstore and publishing house has been a hub for writers and artists since the Beat era. 261 Columbus Ave., 415.362.8193, citylights.com OMNIVORE BOOKS ON FOOD Featuring new, antiquarian and collectible books by and for culinary gurus, this bookstore is a wonderland for readers interested in food and drink. 3885A Cesar Chavez St., 415.282.4712, omnivorebooks.com

CHILDREN’S SHOPS 826 VALENCIA This pirate supply store serves as a front for a nonprofit dedicated to supporting students’ writing skills. You can buy message bottles and spy glasses. 826 Valencia St., 415.642.5905, shop.826valencia.org

AMBASSADOR TOYS Find toys ranging from sciencethemed to traditional old world toys, books, arts and crafts, collectibles and puppets.

186 W. Portal Ave., 415.759.

TOYS; 2 Embarcadero Center, Lobby Level, 415.345.TOYS, ambassadortoys.com SMALL FRYS This hip children’s shop carries a variety of local brands, eco-friendly and organic items, accessories and baby essentials. 3985 24th St., 415.648.3954, smallfrys.com

DEPARTMENT STORES BLOOMINGDALE’S This is the second largest Bloomingdale’s store in the country, offering the latest fashions for women, men and kids, plus home decor.

845 Market St., 415.856.5300, bloomingdales.com MACY’S The flagship store is housed in two buildings between O’Farrell and Geary streets on either side of Stockton Street and encompasses an entire

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 25

SHOPPING 545 Valencia St., 415.865.0981, shopattherapy.com

collector. 824 Valencia St., 415.824.1872, paxtongate.com

GOURMET & SPECIALTY FOODS

JEWELRY

Shreve & Co.

city block. 170 O’Farrell St., 415.397.3333, macys.com NEIMAN MARCUS This shopping mecca features couture and accessories departments for men and women, plus high-end lingerie and cosmetics. Enjoy a lobster club sandwich or high tea inside the Rotunda restaurant overlooking Union Square.

150 Stockton St., 415.362.3900, neimanmarcus.com

DISPENSARIES THE APOTHECARIUM This dispensary emphasizes education and customer service for seniors, first-time visitors and patients with serious medical conditions. Flow Kana products are available here. 2029 Market St., 415.500.2620; 2414 Lombard St., 415.408.6986; 527 Howard St., 415.741.0741, apothecarium.com GANJA GODDESS If you tend to shy away from going to a physical dispensary, Ganja Goddess is the perfect solution, offering deliveries of curated cannabis products ranging from edibles to concentrates to tinctures. Free shipping on orders over $75; most deliveries arrive within one business day. 855.426.5246, goddessdelivers.com THE GREEN DOOR Opened in 2003, this is one of the longest-operating dispensaries in California. Flow Kana products are available here. 843 Howard St., 415.541.9590, greendoorsf.com

MOE GREENS This dispensary claims to be a “place where you can bring your mother” and offers three different lounges: a vaping lounge, an extracts lounge and a lounge with large booths. Flow Kana products are available here. 1276 Market St., 415.762.4255, moegreens.com VAPOR ROOM Founded in 2004, this cannabis dispensary has been at the forefront of the industry and provides caring and friendly service. Dogs are welcome. Flow Kana products are available here. 79 9th St., 415.626.2100, vaporroom.com

EYEWEAR WARBY PARKER The affordable eyeglasses retailer has limited-edition styles you can’t find anywhere else. 357 Hayes St., 415.906.5313; 216 Stockton St., 415.528.2698, warbyparker.com

GIFTS SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT When traveling through SFO, make sure to pick up your holiday gifts for everyone on your list. Find everything from local specialties to international favorites. flysfo.com THERAPY A Valencia Street staple, this family-owned store offers men’s and women’s clothing, handmade cards, books and a large supply of novelties and oddities. A portion of profits goes to local food banks and charities.

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LANG ANTIQUES Find fine jewels from every important design period, as well as estate diamond engagement rings, at this quaint little shop.

309 Sutter St., 800.924.2213, langantiques.com

RECCHIUTI CONFECTIONS Michael Recchiuti’s chocolates come in unusual flavors and designs. The company has been creating hand-made chocolates for 20 years. 1 Ferry Building Marketplace, Shop 30, 415.834.9494; 801 22nd St., 415.489.2881, recchiuti.com

SHREVE & CO. One of the city’s leading purveyors of fine jewelry, watches and crystal, this San Francisco institution features an in-store Mikimoto pearl boutique, Rolex watches and more.

150 Post St., 415.421.2600; 329 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, 650.327.2211, shreve.com

HOME & DESIGN

MEN’S APPAREL

ATYS The modern items at this store are designed by architects and industrial designers. Most of the sleek pieces are imported from Denmark, Germany, France and Italy. 2149B Union St., 415.441.9220, atysdesign.com

CABLE CAR CLOTHIERS Cable Car offers classic Britishmade menswear, plus robes, boxer shorts, hats and scarves.

Don’t miss the barbershop.

110 Sutter St., 415.397.4740, cablecarclothiers.com

BIORDI ART IMPORTS The secret of Biordi’s success is to maintain a clientele with taste and a fond appreciation for Italian Renaissance-style majolica: exquisite objets d’art, hand-painted dinnerware and much more. 412 Columbus Ave., 415.392.8096, biordi.com

WELCOME STRANGER High-end boutique for men’s apparel and shoes that are a curious blend of “rugged” (including brands typically associated with construction and farming) and hipster chic.

Fits in well with the evolving Hayes Valley collection of hip shops. Stylish grooming products also on the menu.

460 Gough St., 415.864.2079, welcomestranger.com

CLIFF’S VARIETY One of the oldest businesses in the heart of the Castro is a traditional variety store (hardware plus all manner of home necessities), but with some decidedly non-traditional goods, especially around holidays and Pride month. The annex next door is full of costumes, crafts, housewares and novelties.

479 Castro St., 415.212.8400, cliffsvariety.com NEEDLEPOINT INC. For the best in hand-painted needlepoint designs, visit this shop in the heart of Jackson Square. Needlepoint Inc. carries a wide assortment of original canvases, fibers and stitching accessories. 326 Jackson St., 800.345.1622, needlepointinc.com PAXTON GATE Paxton Gate contains 2,000 square feet of vintage taxidermy, ethically sourced skulls and bones, unique plant life and an assortment of home goods for the curious

SHOES THE ALDEN SHOP This shoe company offers classic men’s footwear that represents New England’s tradition of custom boot-making at its finest. Find a complete line of shoes made with premium calfskins, luxurious suedes and genuine shell cordovan.

170 Sutter St., 415.421.6691, aldenshop.com

SHOPPING DESTINATIONS EMBARCADERO CENTER The office towers known as 1, 2, 3 and 4 Embarcadero house more than 70 retailers, 50 restaurants and a movie theater. Sacramento and Davis streets, 415.772.0700, embarcaderocenter.com

COURTESY SHREVE & CO.

DANDELION CHOCOLATE Dandelion is a bean-to-bar chocolate factory that only uses two ingredients, beans and sugar, and is meticulously sourced.

740 Valencia St.; 1 Ferry Building; 2600 16th St., 415.349.0942, dandelionchocolate.com

SHOPPING FERRY BUILDING MARKETPLACE Located at the foot of Market Street, this marketplace is home to abundant food shops, ceramics, gardening supplies and skin care. 1 Ferry Building, ferrybuildingmarketplace.com HILLSDALE SHOPPING CENTER Retail giants like Nordstrom and Macy’s anchor this large shopping center approximately 20 miles south of the city, which also features about 120 more specialty shops to boot. 60 31st Ave., San Mateo, 650.571.1029, hillsdale.com STANFORD SHOPPING CENTER Browse more than 140 boutiques and admire the gardens and picturesque sculptures. 660 Stanford Shopping Center, Palo Alto, 650.617.8200, stanfordshop.com

Alden Shop for Gentlemen 170 Sutter Street, San Francisco, CA 94104 800-273-7463 415-421-6691 www.AldenShop.com

WESTFIELD SAN FRANCISCO CENTRE This nine-story shopping mall features Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and more than 200 shops and restaurants such as Aveda, Coach, Godiva Chocolatier, Kate Spade and Sephora. 865 Market St., 415.512.6776, westfield.com/ sanfrancisco

WOMEN’S APPAREL AMOUR VERT This ecofashion brand plants a tree for every purchase. This company has set a new standard for socially responsible clothing.

437 Hayes St., 415.800.8576; 2110 Chestnut St., 415.654.5385; 1840 4th St., Berkeley, 510.898.1870, amourvert.com CUYANA Cuyana (“to love” in Quechua) creates premium apparel and accessories, designed with a classic, modern aesthetic, sourced from the world’s highestquality materials and crafted to last. 291 Geary St., Second Floor, 415.445.3001, cuyana.com THE GROCERY STORE Hip European fashion oasis featuring cool clothing with a rock-star twist. 3687 Sacramento St., 415.928.3615 VER UNICA For over 20 years, this upscale vintage shop has been San Francisco’s go-to for high-quality finds. The exquisite collection offers everything from ‘50s sundresses to ‘60s Chanel baubles to ‘70s Gucci bags.

526 Hayes St., 415.621.6259

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 27

ART

Moving on up

Popular Union Square gallery CK Contemporary has moved into a new home with twice as much exhibition space and that is only a half-block from its previous digs. The larger space at Powell and Geary streets allows the gallery to display single-artist exhibitions as well as group shows at the same time, offering opportunities to highlight more artists. 246 Powell St., 415.397.0114, ckcontemporary.com

THE ANTIQUE TRADERS This shop has a fine collection of original art nouveau antique items, which includes lamps and art glass, chandeliers, stained and beveled glass windows, bronzes, sculptures and furniture. 4310 California St., 415.668.4444, theantiquetraders.com ARTHAUS ArtHaus specializes in contemporary works by established and midcareer Bay Area and New York artists. It also provides an intimate setting for cocktail receptions. 228 Townsend St., 415.977.0223, arthaus-sf.com CALDWELL SNYDER GALLERY Caldwell Snyder is a contemporary art gallery representing many significant international painters and sculptors from the 21st century.

It has introduced many artists to the Bay Area for the first time.

341 Sutter St., 415.392.2299; 1328 Main St., St. Helena, 707.200.5050, caldwellsnyder.com CATHARINE CLARK GALLERY This is a gallery with attitude. It specializes in contemporary painting and

new media installation art by emerging artists, often with social and political themes.

248 Utah St., 415.399.1439, cclarkgallery.com CCA WATTIS INSTITUTE The California College of the Arts’ Wattis Institute provides two floors of contemporary exhibition space that are free to the public, in addition to its artist residency and research programs. 360 Kansas St., 415.355.9670, wattis.org CHRISTOPHER-CLARK FINE ART This premier gallery features paintings, drawings and original prints by European masters. Find art by Gauguin, Renoir, Manet, Picasso, Matisse, Chagall, Kandinsky and Dalí, plus Frankenthaler, de Kooning and Lichtenstein.

377 Geary St., 415.397.7781, clarkfineart.com CK CONTEMPORARY This gallery space is home to original paintings by noteworthy American and European contemporary artists. The gallery also works closely with collectors to assist clients in finding the perfect pieces for their home.

246 Powell St., 415.397.0114, ckcontemporary.com

28 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

DANIEL MERRIAM’S BUBBLE STREET GALLERY Bubble Street Gallery offers an eclectic mix of fine arts and crafts. Contemporary surrealist Daniel Merriam’s collection reflects styles from steampunk to neo-Victorian and pop surrealism. 565 Bridgeway Blvd., Sausalito, 415.339.0506, bubblestreetgallery.com FRAENKEL GALLERY Founded in 1979, this world-class gallery at 49 Geary focuses on photography, with rotating shows that span the medium’s history from the beginning to modern day. 49 Geary St., Fourth Floor, 415.981.2661, fraenkelgallery.com HACKETT MILL Hackett Mill represents the contemporary artists David Beck, Masatoyo Kishi, Manuel Neri, Raimonds Staprans, and Brian Wall and is the exclusive representative of David Park and Robert Schwartz. 145 Natoma St., 415.362.3377, hackettmill.com HASHIMOTO CONTEMPORARY Hashimoto Contemporary is home to an eclectic blend of new contemporary artists. The gallery focuses on a range of painting, sculpture

and installation-based work.

804 Sutter St., 415.655.9265, hashimotocontemporary.com JOHN BERGGRUEN GALLERY This gallery showcases works by 20th-century contemporary American and European painters and sculptors such as Richard Serra and Julie Mehretu, as well as historic exhibits of Georgia O’Keeffe and Matisse. 10 Hawthorne St., 415.781.4629, berggruen.com MARK WOLFE CONTEMPORARY ART This all-media gallery offers a mix of young urbanism and new traditional media. It focuses on exposition, showing works that encourage audiences to perceive visuals in new ways.

555 Sutter St., 415.369.9404, wolfecontemporary.com MARTIN LAWRENCE GALLERIES This gallery specializes in original paintings, sculptures and limited-edition graphics and features works

by Basquiat, Dalí, Warhol and emerging artists. 366 Geary St., 415.956.0345, martinlawrence.com MEYEROVICH GALLERY One of the country’s leading

ABOVE: JAMIE PERRY, “LOST IN THOUGHT #5” (2020). OPPOSITE PAGE: RUSSELL JOHNSON

ART GALLERIES

ART galleries, Meyerovich specializes in American and European paintings, works on paper, graphics and sculpture by contemporary masters such as John Baldessari, Guy Dill, Alex Katz, Roy Lichtenstein, Robert Motherwell, Chuck Arnoldi, Ross Bleckner, Deborah Kass, Andy Warhol, Frank Stella, Donald Sultan and Bernar Venet. The gallery has extensive experience in working with museums and international clientele.

251 Post St., Suite 400, 415.421.7171, meyerovich.com MODERNISM This gallery’s museum-quality program emphasizes historical exhibitions of significant artistic movements, foremost the Russian AvantGarde 1910-1930. This was the first gallery to exhibit Andy Warhol in the Bay Area.

724 Ellis St., 415.541.0461, modernisminc.com/gallery MONTAGUE GALLERY The only gallery of its kind in San Francisco, Montague Gallery specializes in contemporary fine art glass with an expansive roster of world renowned artists including Dale Chihuly and Dante Marioni. 445A Sutter St., 415.964.4978, montaguegallery.com

from pop culture, offering original photographs, paintings and limited-edition prints of the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Jimi Hendrix and more. 458 Geary St., 415.441.8840, sfae.com SAN FRANCISCO CENTER FOR THE BOOK This gallery showcases every artistic aspect of books, from the antique to the experimental. Ponder exhibitions on censorship and literary forms, or take a workshop on bookmaking. 375 Rhode Island St., 415.565.0545, sfcb.org SCOTT NICHOLS GALLERY This gallery shows vintage and contemporary photographs by established and emerging artists. It’s home to an extensive inventory of photographs by iconic California photographers such as Ansel Adams and Dorothea Lange. 450 1st St. E, Sonoma, 707.343.1928, scottnicholsgallery.com SERGE SOROKKO GALLERY Located in Union Square, this gallery features postwar and contemporary art by acclaimed American and European artists, including Hunt Slonem, Ross Bleckner and Miguel Condé.

345 Sutter St., 415.421.7770, sorokko.com

Nassau by Lino Tagliapietra at Montague Gallery

history and culture throughout Asia, this museum is one of the largest in the Western Hemisphere devoted exclusively to Asian art. 200 Larkin St., 415.581.3500, asianart.org

and preserves arts that reflect the traditions of Chicano, Mexican, Central and South American and Caribbean societies.

2868 Mission St., 415.821.1155, missionculturalcenter.org

BAMPFA This museum has rotating art exhibitions that range from classical Chinese painting to abstract expressionism to provocative multimedia work, plus a film archive that offers screenings. 2155 Center St., Berkeley, 510.642.0808, bampfa.org

MUSEUM OF CRAFT AND DESIGN This is San Francisco’s only museum devoted exclusively to modern and contemporary craft and design. 2569 3rd St., 415.773.0303, sfmcd.org

MONTGOMERY GALLERY This Jackson Square gallery offers works ranging from old masters to 20th-century modern, European and American impressionism, and 19th- and 20th-century Californian. 545 Sansome St., 415.788.8300, montgomerygallery.com

TANGENT CONTEMPORARY ART This gallery showcases works from American and international artists that present new approaches to traditional media and challenge viewers’ perception. 373 Geary St., 415.956.9999, tangentart.com

CONTEMPORARY JEWISH MUSEUM Located in a Daniel Libeskind-designed building, the CJM explores contemporary perspectives on Jewish culture, history, art and ideas. 736 Mission St., 415.655.7800, thecjm.org

RENA BRANSTEN GALLERY Gallery includes established and emerging artists—such as Lawrence Ferlinghetti, Vik Muniz, Henry Wessel and Ron Nagle—whose work engages with contemporary social and cultural climates. 1275 Minnesota St., 415.982.3292, renabranstengallery.com

WEINSTEIN GALLERY This gallery’s collection is dedicated to rare works of 20th-century masters including Picasso, Chagall, Calder and Matta. The gallery has works of surrealism and abstract expressionism, as well as contemporary figurative painters. 383 Geary St., 415.362.8155; 444 Clementina St., 415.362.8151, weinstein.com

DE YOUNG MUSEUM Founded in 1895, this impressively varied museum showcases collections from the Americas, Pacific Islands and Africa, as well as photography, graphic art and textiles. Free general admission first Tuesday of each month. 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, 415.750.3600, deyoung.famsf.org

ROBERT KOCH GALLERY This gallery offers a wide range of exemplary photography that spans from the 19th century to the present, exhibiting works by artists such as Isaac Abrams, Alex Webb and Debra Bloomfield. 49 Geary St., Fifth Floor, 415.421.0122, kochgallery.com

ZK GALLERY This contemporary and modern art gallery exhibits internationally renowned and emerging artists, as well as traditional and hybrid media, printmaking, sculpture and photography. 213 Jefferson St., 415.632.1036, zkgallery.com

LEGION OF HONOR This grand art museum is a threequarter-scale adaptation of the 18th-century Palais de la Légion d’Honneur in Paris.

The museum was built to commemorate soldiers who died in World War I. Lincoln Park, 100 34th Ave., 415.750.3600, legionofhonor.famsf.org

SAN FRANCISCO ART EXCHANGE San Francisco Art Exchange is a worldwide leader in art and photographs

MUSEUMS ASIAN ART MUSEUM Home to over 18,000 exquisite art objects spanning 6,000 years of

MISSION CULTURAL CENTER FOR LATINO ARTS The MCCLA promotes

MUSEUM OF THE AFRICAN DIASPORA This cultural institution celebrates the richness of black culture and is one of the few museums in the world that exclusively examines the African diaspora. 685 Mission St., 415.358.7200, moadsf.org MUSEUM OF ICE CREAM Step inside an immersive experience, painted neon pink and populated with cookie carousels and a swimming pool filled with rainbow sprinkles.

1 Grant Ave., 855.258.0719, museumoficecream.com SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUM OF MODERN ART SFMOMA is the largest modern art space in the nation. See painting, sculpture, photography, architecture and design, and media arts. Most of the museum’s ground floor is free. 151 3rd St., 415.357.4000, sfmoma.org YERBA BUENA CENTER FOR THE ARTS This contemporary art center highlights multicultural issues through artwork, performing arts, film and civic engagement. 701 Mission St., general: 415.978.2700, tickets: 415.978.2787, ybca.org

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 29

DINING

Vault leaps into outdoor-only spot Owners of the Vault restaurant in the Financial District have embraced the outdoors by opening Vault Garden, a 100-seat bistro on the sprawling plaza of the 555 California building. The restaurant, with food from executive chef Robin Song, a wine program by Lucas Bierbower, and cocktails by Kaitlin Ryan of Attagirl, features appropriately spaced tables, planters for a garden vibe and heaters for when Karl the Fog rolls into town.

The all-day menu is scaled back slightly, but still features the original Vault’s signature Parker House Rolls. Plaza at 555 California St., 415.508.4675, thevault555.com

BARREL HOUSE TAVERN > New American.

This casual eatery serves a local, seasonal menu of rustic comfort food and overlooks the bay with breathtaking views of the San Francisco skyline, Treasure Island and the Bay Bridge. 660 Bridgeway, Sausalito, 415.729.9593, barrelhousetavern.com COPITA TEQUILERIA Y COMIDA > Mexican.

This neighborhood restaurant and tequila bar offers elevated versions of traditional Mexican cuisine and inventive cocktails. 739 Bridgeway, Sausalito, 415.331.7400, copitarestaurant.com

CASTRO/ UPPER MARKET

CHINATOWN

CANELA BISTRO AND WINE BAR > Spanish/Tapas.

Serving traditional tapas and modern Spanish dishes, sourcing ingredients from sustainable California markets and farms. 2272 Market St., 415.552.3000, canelasf.com

R&G LOUNGE > Chinese.

This spot has a Hong Kong-style menu that includes tank-fresh seafood. No Reservations host Anthony Bourdain visited the restaurant and raved about the salt and pepper crab.

631 Kearny St., 415.982.7877, rnglounge.com

FRANCES > California.

Serving a daily changing menu of modern California cuisine, acclaimed Frances serves delights such as steak with sweet corn polenta, roasted Bartlett pear with celery root confit and gnocchi with maitake mushrooms.

3870 17th St., 415.621.3870, frances-sf.com

Z&Y RESTAURANT > Chinese. Chinatown landmark with authentic Schezuan cuisine from fish and pork-belly hot pots to hand-pulled noodles. Guests have included presidents of the United States and China.

655 Jackson St., 415.981.8988, zandyrestaurant.com

30 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

CIVIC CENTER/ HAYES VALLEY ABSINTHE BRASSERIE & BAR > French.

The perfect place to take a break from shopping or enjoy a dinner date. The menu boasts an oyster bar, classic French specialties and heavenly desserts. 398 Hayes St., 415.551.1590, absinthe.com ESPETUS BRAZILIAN STEAK HOUSE > Steaks.

This Brazilian steakhouse offers all-you-can-eat skewers of slow-roasted beef, lamb, pork, chicken and shrimp for a fixed price. 1686 Market St., 415.552.8792; 710 S. B St., San Mateo, 650.342.8700., espetus.com

COURTESY VAULT GARDEN

BAY AREA

SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

T AST E O F S A N F R A N C I S C O HISTORIC JOHN’S GRILL TOP PICK

CLASSIC SF RESTAURANT

A San Francisco tradition since 1908 and a favorite with locals and national celebrities (Olympia Dukakis, Renée Zellweger and Drew Brees), who enjoy great steaks, fresh seafood and excellent service at honest prices. The casual atmosphere and pictures of old San Francisco is a setting in the novel The Maltese Falcon and is conveniently located to downtown hotels and theaters. This landmark restaurant was featured in Gourmet and named Top 10 by Esquire. Private banquet rooms available. M-Su (L,D) Union Square 63 Ellis St. (Powell & Stockton), San Francisco, 415.986.0069 • johnsgrill.com

NEW DELHI RESTAURANT Chef Ranjan has been preparing legendary flavors for guests from around the world at the same location for over 30 years. San Francisco’s oldest Indian restaurant has been serving classic and unique Indian dishes using fresh, local ingredients. Voted the “Best Indian Restaurant” and decorated like a Maharajah’s banquet room, New Delhi has been a favorite for locals and visitors. Within walking distance of downtown hotels, it’s ideal for a unique and delicious dining experience. Bar open late. L (M-Sa), D (nightly) 160 Ellis St., San Francisco 415.397.8470 • newdelhirestaurant.com

BUENA VISTA First established on Fisherman’s Wharf in 1886 and as rich in history as the city itself, the Buena Vista has served warming libations and hearty meals to patrons from near and far for over 130 years. In more recent history, the “BV” gained new renown in 1952 with the introduction of its world-famous Irish Coffee, which—in addition to its bountiful meals, full bar and celebrated views—continues to attract locals and visitors alike. Open late. B, L, D (daily)

Fisherman’s Wharf, 2765 Hyde St., San Francisco 415.474.5044 • thebuenavista.com

DINING MONSIEUR BENJAMIN > French.

Inspired by Parisian bistros, this restaurant offers a seasonal, modern take on traditional dishes.

451 Gough St., 415.403.2233, monsieurbenjamin.com NOPA > American.

Named for its North-of-thePanhandle location, NOPA serves organic, locally sourced, woodfired rustic cuisine with a weekly changing menu. 560 Divisadero St., 415.864.8643, nopasf.com RICH TABLE > American.

This one-Michelin star hot spot serves unfussy, market-driven food such as aged beef ravioli with pickled ginger, all in a lively atmosphere. 199 Gough St., 415.355.9085, richtablesf.com SOUVLA > Greek.

This Greek sandwich shop is inspired by the souvlaki joints found throughout Greece.

The sandwiches are made with spit-roasted meats on warm pita bread with spiced yogurt sauces. 517 Hayes St., 415.400.5458; 531 Divisadero St., 415.400.5458; 758 Valencia St., 415.400.5458; 2272 Chestnut St., souvla.com ZUNI CAFE > Mediterranean.

This San Francisco institution won a James Beard Award in 2003 for Outstanding Restaurant and is famous for its cookedto-order roast chicken for two (allow an hour), a true standout on the menu. 1658 Market St., 415.552.2522., zunicafe.com

DOGPATCH GILBERTH’S LATIN FUSION > Latin American.

Pan-Latin cuisine is served in an industrial-chic setting at this family-owned restaurant. The frequently changing menu features fresh, local ingredients. 2427 3rd St., 415.913.7163, gilberths.com SERPENTINE > New American.

This industrial-chic restaurant and cocktail bar serves upscale American and Southerninfluenced dishes, such as cornmeal-crusted halibut and country grits. 2495 3rd St., 415.252.2000, serpentinesf.com

FINANCIAL DISTRICT AKIKOS RESTAURANT > Sushi.

This sushi restaurant is committed to local, organic and

32 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

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DINING

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BOB’S STEAK & CHOP HOUSE > Steaks.

Prime cuts of filet mignon, New York strip steaks and a 22-ounce bone-in rib-eye dominate a menu rounded out by rack of lamb, roast duck and seafood in this Omni Hotel spot. 500 California St., 415.273.3085, bobs-steakandchop.com

RAID THE CELLAR FOR

HALF PRICE WINES!

HARBORVIEW RESTAURANT & BAR > Chinese.

Enjoy authentic Cantonese Chinese cuisine, traditional dim sum and cocktails alongside panoramic bay views. Menu items include steamed Shanghai dumplings and scallops.

4 Embarcadero Center, 415.399.1200, harborviewsf.com

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“Top Ten American restaurants in the U.S.” – Gayot Guide

sustainable products, and the menu features traditionalcontemporary sushi and eclectic seafood items.

431 Bush St., 415.397.3218, akikosrestaurant.com

1 MARKET STREET SAN FRANCISCO 415.777.5577 ONEMARKET.COM

KUSAKABE > Japanese.

For the ultimate in sushi, look no further than Kusakabe, a high-end restaurant that offers a prix fixe menu chosen by the chef. 584 Washington St., 415.757.0155, kusakabe-sf.com ONE MARKET > American.

This popular restaurant on the Embarcadero waterfront offers contemporary presentations of American classics from chef Mark Dommen, showcasing farm-fresh ingredients, heritage meats, artisanal cheeses and stellar wine. 1 Market St., 415.777.5577, onemarket.com PABU > Japanese & Sushi.

Michael Mina and Ken Tominaga’s modern Japanese izakaya offers sushi and small-plate menus complemented by more than 100 sake selections. 101 California St., 415.668.7228, michaelmina.net PROSPECT > California.

This polished spot serves California cuisine in an elegant yet comfortable environment.

The menu changes daily with options like duck liver mousse, roasted sea scallops with wilted celery root, and tuna crudo with stone fruit. 300 Spear St., 415.247.7770, prospectsf.com

WWW.CAFÉZOETROPE.COM | (415) 291-1700

WAYFARE TAVERN > American.

Built with bricks salvaged from the streets of the devastated city after the 1906 quake, chef Tyler Florence’s restaurant

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 33

DINING vation at the 2013 James Beard Award winner for Best New Restaurant. This Michelinstarred restaurant does inventive, adventurous American cuisine. 1529 Fillmore St., 415.795.1272, statebirdsf.com

MARINA/COW HOLLOW A16 > Italian.

This neighborhood hot spot combines the cuisine of Campania with the pizzas of Naples and pours small-production wines from California and Southern Italy. 2355 Chestnut St., 415.771.2216; 5356 College Ave., Oakland, 510.768.8003, a16sf.com

channels the Barbary Coast era with American fare. 558 Sacramento St., 415.772.9060, wayfaretavern.com YANK SING > Chinese.

This is an upscale dim sum parlor with no menus. Just point at what looks good as the servers roll the carts past your table, and discover the art of eating Shanghai dumplings.

101 Spear St., 415.781.1111; 49 Stevenson Place, 415.541.4949, yanksing.com

FISHERMAN’S WHARF/ WATERFRONT ALIOTO’S > Seafood.

One of San Francisco’s oldest restaurants, this Fisherman’s Wharf landmark has magnificent views of the San Francisco Bay and a reputation for great cioppino and fresh seafood.

8 Fisherman’s Wharf, 415.673.0183, aliotos.com BEACH STREET GRILL ORGANIC RESTAURANT > American.

The key word at this diner is homemade, all-day breakfast, from melt-in-your-mouth blueberry pancakes to biscuits and gravy. 380 Beach St., 415.867.1711, sfbeachstreetgrill.com BISTRO BOUDIN > American.

Seasonal cuisine and sourdough dominate the menu at the famed

bread-maker’s flagship facility, which also houses a sourdough bread museum, an exhibition bakery, and a café and gourmet market. 160 Jefferson St., 415.351.5561, bistroboudin.com THE BUENA VISTA CAFE > American.

This wharf institution by the Hyde Street cable car turnaround is famous for first introducing Irish coffee to the U.S. in 1952.

The menu features all-day breakfast and comfort food. 2765 Hyde St., 415.474.5044, thebuenavista.com THE GROTTO > Seafood.

This bistro, oyster bar and lounge has been feeding fishermen since 1935. It was the first sit-down restaurant to open in Fisherman’s Wharf. 2847 Taylor St., 415.673.7025, thegrottosf.com HOG ISLAND OYSTER COMPANY > Seafood.

This attractive waterfront spot in the Ferry Building is known for its happy hours and unconventional, exceptional clam chowder with whole manila clams and a light, flavorful broth.

1 Ferry Building, 415.391.7117, hogislandoysters.com THE SLANTED DOOR > Vietnamese.

With a waterfront location in the Ferry Building, this restaurant from star chef Charles Phan serves modern interpretations

34 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

of Vietnamese cuisine that remain faithful to the original. It’s famous for its shaking beef dish.

1 Ferry Building, 415.861.8032, slanteddoor.com

JACKSON SQUARE COTOGNA > Italian.

This casual cousin to the threeMichelin star Quince restaurant serves a seasonal menu of spit-roasted meats and game birds, wood-oven pizzas, housemade pastas and local seafood. 490 Pacific Ave., 415.775.8508, cotognasf.com QUINCE > Contemporary.

Elegant without being stuffy, this intimate three-Michelin star restaurant with a superb wine list serves sophisticated Californian contemporary cuisine via a nightly changing tasting menu.

470 Pacific Ave., 415.775.8500, quincerestaurant.com

JAPANTOWN/ LOWER FILLMORE THE PROGRESS > New American.

A 2015 James Beard Award winner and one-Michelin star spot, this is the second restaurant from the team behind State Bird Provisions. 1525 Fillmore St., 415.673.1294, theprogress-sf.com STATE BIRD PROVISIONS > American.

It’s worth it to get a reser-

INDIE SUPERETTE > California.

Michael Mina’s new cafe and grab-and-go market that is focused on plant-based fare from veggie burgers to vegan pastries. 3060 Fillmore St., 628.222.6642, michaelmina.net

MISSION DISTRICT CRAFTSMAN & WOLVES > Bakery.

This modern patisserie features a rotating menu of breakfast pastries, desserts, lunch and other savory fare. 746 Valencia St., 415.913.7713; 1598 Yosemite Ave., 415.423.3337, craftsman-wolves.com DELFINA > Italian.

This bustling neighborhood trattoria is a local favorite that pioneered San Francisco’s farm-to-table movement. It’s received rave reviews since its opening in 1998. 3621 18th St., 415.552.4055, delfinasf.com FLOUR + WATER > Italian.

This incredibly popular, welcoming spot serves exceptional Neapolitan-style, wood-fired pizzas and housemade pastas made with seasonal ingredients.

2401 Harrison St., 415.826.7000, flourandwater.com FOREIGN CINEMA > California.

A mainstay in the Mission District since 1999, Foreign Cinema has a bohemian-chic

COURTESY THE MINA GROUP

Bowls at Indie Superette

ATELIER CRENN > French.

This three-Michelin star restaurant presents gardencentric dishes. Giving center stage to the food, diners enjoy a multicourse tasting menu.

3127 Fillmore St., 415.440.0460, ateliercrenn.com

DINING

The

space that suits the excellent California-Mediterranean cuisine.

A heated, covered patio screens classic, foreign and independent films. 2534 Mission St., 415.648.7600, foreigncinema.com

San Francisco Steakhouse

ICHI SUSHI > Sushi.

Celebrated as one of San Francisco’s top sushi destinations, Ichi Sushi is the place to go for traditional nigiri, sashimi and an extensive sake list. 3369 Mission St., 415.525.4750, ichisushi.com LOLINDA > Steaks.

The team behind Beretta and Starbelly has created a new kind of steakhouse, one that marries the flavors of Argentina with the culinary sensibility of California.

The meats are cooked over a wood-fired asador (grill). 2518 Mission St., 415.550.6970, lolindasf.com

Award winning steaks, superb wines, and live jazz nightly for over 35 years!

415.673.1888 • 2100 VAN NESS AVE. HARRISRESTAURANT.COM

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TARTINE BAKERY & CAFE > Dessert/Coffee.

This popular artisan bakery serves fresh-from-the-oven pastries all day, as well as pies, cakes, artisan bread and coffee.

Gourmet sandwiches and classic pastries keep folks lining up.

600 Guerrero St., 415.487.2600, tartinebakery.com

NOB HILL BERBER > North African.

As a supper club, Berber features a prix fixe menu of dishes alongside a cirque show. As a restaurant and bar, Berber offers an unfussy dining room with Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine and craft cocktails.

1516 Broadway, 415.800.7767, berbersf.com SWAN OYSTER DEPOT > Seafood.

This seafood market and 18-stool oyster bar almost always has a (very long) wait, but the food and the service are always well worth waiting for. Cash-only.

1517 Polk St., 415.673.1101, swanoysterdepot.us TOMMY’S JOYNT > American.

One of the first hofbraus in San Francisco is still serving up generous portions of freshly cut meat and other dishes cafeteria-style. 1101 Geary Blvd., 415.775.4216, tommysjoynt.com

NOE VALLEY FIREFLY > American.

This homey spot has been a

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 35

DINING voted “Best Middle Eastern” and “Best Mediterranean” in the San Francisco Bay Area. Now in its 40th year, the family-owned and -operated Middle Eastern and Mediterranean restaurant is inspired by Armenian and Lebanese family recipes. 2210 Fillmore St., 415.921.2956, cafelamedfillmore.com

RICHMOND/ OCEAN BEACH CLIFF HOUSE > American.

This historic site is home to two restaurants and spectacular views. Sutro’s at Cliff House offers an upscale setting and a seasonal California coastal menu, while the Bistro at Cliff House offers a more casual experience. 1090 Point Lobos Ave., 415.386.3330, cliffhouse.com

Prime rib at One Market (p. 33)

destination since 1993. The food is comfortable and creative, and vegetarians will find at least two courses on every menu.

4288 24th St., 415.821.7652, fireflysf.com

NORTH BEACH CAFE ZOETROPE > Italian.

Owned by legendary film director and winemaker Francis Ford Coppola, this neighborhood Italian restaurant is named after his famous production company.

916 Kearny St., 415.291.1700, cafezoetrope.com DON PISTO’S > Mexican.

A fresh take on traditional Mexican street food, this spot serves up tacos and tamales inspired by the towns from Baja California all the way down to the Yucatan peninsula. 510 Union St., 415.395.0939, donpistos.com FIOR D’ITALIA > Italian.

Dubbed America’s oldest Italian restaurant (opened in 1886), Fior d’Italia has been serving authentic Northern Italian cuisine for over 130 years. 2237 Mason St., 415.986.1886, fior.com NORTH BEACH RESTAURANT > Italian.

This classic restaurant serves generous portions of hearty Tuscan cuisine from its extensive menu alongside a huge selection

of wines. 1512 Stockton St., 415.392.1700, northbeachrestaurant.com PARK TAVERN > American.

A fashionable American bistro and bar boasts a menu of shareable plates and seafood such as steak frites made with a 12-ounce rib-eye and a pan-seared trout in cherry beurre blanc. 1652 Stockton St., 415.989.7300, parktavernsf.com SOTTO MARE OYSTERIA & SEAFOOD RESTAURANT > Seafood.

Sotto Mare is an authentic Italian North Beach experience. The seafood restaurant serves oysters and clams, clam chowder and more and is well known for its crab cioppino. 552 Green St., 415.398.3181, sottomaresf.com TONY’S PIZZA NAPOLETANA > Italian.

Dubbed the best pizzeria in America by Forbes magazine, Tony Gemignani’s pizzas are authentic, with ingredients imported from Naples, Italy.

1570 Stockton St., 415.835.9888, tonyspizzanapoletana.com

PACIFIC HEIGHTS/ UPPER FILLMORE LA MÉDTIERANÉE > Armenian.

This restaurant is consistently

36 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

and restaurant with a film noir-inspired dining room, rooftop patio and craft cocktails.

12 4th St., 415.348.1555, dirtyhabitsf.com DUMPLING TIME > Chinese/Japanese.

This restaurant serves handmade dumplings from Japanese and Chinese traditions. The signature are Japanese-style gyoza.

11 Division St., 415.525.4797, dumplingtimesf.com MARLOWE > American.

This popular neighborhood bistro is a sister restaurant to the acclaimed Park Tavern. The market-driven menu is known for upscale comfort foods like burgers, crispy Brussels sprout chips and deviled eggs. 500 Brannan St., 415.777.1413, marlowesf.com

OUTERLANDS > New American.

This Outer Sunset restaurant is committed to local and sustainable ingredients. The menu features simple yet elevated takes on classics such as a bacon and cheese sandwich and Early Girl tomato soup. 4001 Judah St., 415.661.6140, outerlandssf.com

MATHILDE FRENCH BISTRO > French.

Mathilde is a neighborhood restaurant serving traditional French fare like slow-cooked duck confit in duck fat and coq au vin. Surrounded by vines and greenery, the inviting back patio evokes the French countryside. 315 5th St., 415.546.6128, mathildesf.com

SOUTH OF MARKET (SOMA)/CHINA BASIN

OZUMO > Japanese/Sushi.

This swanky space in SoMa offers a sake lounge, a sushi bar and a dining room where you can enjoy modern interpretations of traditional Japanese fare such as dungeness crab croquettes.

161 Steuart St., 415.882.1333, ozumo.com

ALEXANDER’S STEAKHOUSE > Steaks.

This fine interpretation of the classic American steakhouse reveals hints of Japanese influence throughout the menu with dry-aged steaks and an awardwinning 400-bottle collection.

448 Brannan St., 415.495.1111; 19379 Stevens Creek Blvd., Cupertino, 408.446.2222, alexanderssteakhouse.com BENU > American.

This three-Michelin star restaurant distills fine dining down to the elements: exquisite ingredients, unique flavors, precise technique and attentive service. 22 Hawthorne St., 415.685.4860, benusf.com BLUESTEM BRASSERIE > California.

This upscale urban restaurant is a modern interpretation of the classic American brasserie. Dishes include grass-fed beef burgers and steaks and vegan pupusas.

1 Yerba Buena Lane, 415.547.1111, bluestembrasserie.com DIRTY HABIT > American.

Located in Hotel Zelos, Dirty Habit is a sexy, glamorous bar

UNION SQUARE THE CAVALIER > British Pub Food.

This London-inspired brasserie, a 2014 James Beard Award semifinalist, was created by the duo behind the critically acclaimed restaurants Marlowe and Park Tavern.

360 Jessie St., 415.321.6000, thecavaliersf.com E&O KITCHEN AND BAR > Asian.

Located just steps away from Union Square, E&O has a festive atmosphere and serves shareable bites and creative cocktails featuring bold and dynamic flavors.

314 Sutter St., 415.693.0303, eosanfrancisco.com EMPORIO RULLI BANCARELLA > Café.

Bancarella features an array of pastries in flavors ranging

DINING

The Best Memory of San Francisco Red and White Bay Cruises Family Owned and Operated Since 1892

from hazelnut to Domori dark chocolate. Enjoy one alongside Gary Rulli’s special Bancarella espresso blend. 350 Powell St., 415.433.1121, rulli.com FARALLON > Seafood.

This restaurant has been enchanting guests for two decades with carefully crafted details that blend casual and high-end coastal cuisine, with fresh seafood options and simple raw preparations from the oyster bar. 450 Post St., 415.956.6969, farallonrestaurant.com JOHN’S GRILL > American.

This casual steakhouse is one of the city’s oldest restaurants and served as a setting for the classic book and movie The Maltese Falcon. Enjoy live jazz every night from 6:30-9:30 pm in the Maltese Falcon Room. 63 Ellis St., 415.986.0069, johnsgrill.com

Pier 43 1/2, Fisherman’s Wharf (415) 673-2900 redandwhite.com

LE COLONIAL > French.

Enter a space resembling the tropical elegance of 1920s Vietnam. The menu offers dishes such as whole fried red snapper, Vietnamese beef stew and white prawns with garlic noodles.

20 Cosmo Place, 415.931.3600, lecolonialsf.com NEW DELHI RESTAURANT

RedWhiteFleet_WSF_FA20.indd 1

Indian.

7/10/20 11:55>AM

This regal restaurant serves authentic Northern Indian food, with recipes culled from royal menus dating back 400 years. Chef/owner Ranjan Dey creates daily specials with his six gourmet spice blends.

160 Ellis St., 415.397.8470, newdelhirestaurant.com SONS & DAUGHTERS > California.

This Michelin-starred restaurant brings contemporary fine dining to Union Square. An open kitchen is centered in the middle of the sleek dining room, turning out inventive dishes.

708 Bush St., 415.391.8311, sonsanddaughterssf.com

VAN NESS CORRIDOR HARRIS’ STEAKHOUSE > Steaks.

This iconic restaurant represents classic steakhouse dining, but chef Michael Buhagiar adds a California sensibility with a subtle flair for the unexpected, seen, for example, in the vanilla rose crème brûlée. 2100 Van Ness Ave., 415.673.1888, harrisrestaurant.com

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ATTRACTIONS & EXPLORE 501 Stanyan St., 415.831.2700, goldengatepark.com GRACE CATHEDRAL Cathedral, inspired by the architecture of Paris’ Notre Dame, serves as a diverse gathering place for worship, celebration and activities. 1100 California St., 415.749.6300, gracecathedral.org JAPANESE TEA GARDEN Stroll among monuments, bridges, native Japanese plants and koi ponds in the oldest public Japanese garden in the United States.

75 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, japaneseteagardensf.com

Responding to the need for open-air, smaller-group tour options, newly launched San Francisco Jeep Tours is offering professionally guided private trips around the city in open-top vehicles. The sixpassenger Jeep Wranglers are well suited for navigating the city’s narrow passages and impossibly steep hills where in fact larger tour vehicles are prohibited. Offerings include day or evening fullcity trips as well as others to destinations across the Golden Gate Bridge to Sausalito or the Muir Woods. sanfranciscojeeptours.com

ATTRACTIONS & SIGHTS AQUARIUM OF THE BAY Visit San Francisco’s only waterfront aquarium to get up close and personal with the bay’s amazing marine life.

Pier 39, 415.623.5300, aquariumofthebay.org COIT TOWER Lillie Hitchcock Coit bequeathed funds for the “beautification of the city.” Her heirs used the money to build Coit Tower. 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd., 415.249.0995, sfrecpark.org CONSERVATORY OF FLOWERS This botanical wonderland in Golden Gate Park is the oldest wood and glass conservatory in North America. The inside houses nearly 2,000 plant species. 100 John F. Kennedy Drive, 415.831.2090, conservatoryofflowers.org

CRISSY FIELD Waterfront recreation area, beach and wetlands is popular among locals and visitors. Great views of the Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz.

Located along Mason Street in the Presidio. Warming Hut Park Store & Cafe: 983 Marine Drive, 415.561.3042, parksconservancy.org FISHERMAN’S WHARF Find crab stands along the sidewalks, seafood restaurants and shops in the historic heart of the city’s fishing industry.

Pier 43, 415.674.7503, fishermanswharf.org FORT MASON Once the embarkation point for soldiers going to war in the Pacific, the 13-acre campus now is home to theaters, galleries and museums. 2 Marina Blvd., 415.345.7500, fortmason.org

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GHIRARDELLI SQUARE Former chocolate factory site is home to boutiques, restaurants and the Ghirardelli Ice Cream and Chocolate Shop. 900 North Point St., 415.775.5500, ghirardellisq.com GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE One of the most iconic landmarks in the world, the Golden Gate Bridge defines the city. A stroll down the east side offers views of the city and the bay. Lincoln Boulevard and Armistead Road in the Presidio, welcome center: 415.426.5220, goldengatebridge.org GOLDEN GATE PARK This park is home to the de Young Museum, California Academy of Sciences and the Conservatory of Flowers, with soccer fields, a golf course, tennis courts and more. Pick up a park map at McLaren Lodge,

LOMBARD STREET This famed landmark has eight hairpin switchbacks on a downward pitch, making it the “crookedest street in the world.”

Lombard and Hyde streets MADAME TUSSAUDS SAN FRANCISCO This famous chain of wax museums is filled with celebrities. You can now get up close and personal with the figures—no more ropes­— and snap a pic with your favorite celebrity. 145 Jefferson St., 415.757.2707, madametussauds.com MISSION DOLORES Completed in 1791, Mission Dolores is the oldest intact building in San Francisco and was the city’s first church.

3321 16th St., 415.621.8203, missiondolores.org PAINTED LADIES This row of seven Victorian homes (made famous by the opening credits of Full House) lines the eastern side of Alamo Square park and is often called “Postcard Row.” 710-720 Steiner St. PALACE OF FINE ARTS This domed rotunda is all that remains from the 1915 Panama Pacific International Exposition.

Today this is a popular spot to stroll, take photos or attend events at the theater.

3301 Lyon St., 415.563.6504, palaceoffinearts.org

SAN FRANCISCO JEEP TOURS

Journeying with Jeeps

LANDS END Known for its shipwrecks and landslides, this is San Francisco’s wildest and rockiest coast. The crown jewel is the scenic Coastal Trail, with views of the Pacific coast and Golden Gate Bridge. Visitor Center: 680 Point Lobos Ave., 415.426.5240, parksconservancy.org

ATTRACTIONS & EXPLORE PIER 39 Popular shopping, dining and enter-tainment destination near Fisherman’s Wharf features more than 50 shops and 14 restaurants with bay views. Beach Street and the Embarcadero, 415.981.7437, pier39.com

THE WOMEN’S BUILDING MURAL Spectacular mural by seven women artists. conveys the healing power of women’s wisdom and the contributions of women.

3543 18th St., 415.431.1180, womensbuilding.org

THE PRESIDIO Former Army base is now a national park with forests, trails, historic structures, restaurants and the Walt Disney Family Museum.

Visitor center at 210 Lincoln Blvd., 415.561.4323, presidio.gov

YERBA BUENA GARDENS The Yerba Buena Gardens offer nine different types of gardens, a center for the arts, a carousel, an MLK memorial, an iceskating rink and bowling center, plus child care facilities.

750 Howard St., 415.820.3550, yerbabuenagardens.com

SAN FRANCISCO BOTANICAL GARDEN This internationally recognized urban oasis includes 55 acres of gardens displaying almost 9,000 different kinds of plants, plus a library and a bookstore.

1119 9th Ave., 415.661.1316, sfbotanicalgarden.org THE SAN FRANCISCO ZOO Home to more than 2,000 exotic, endangered and rescued animals, among peaceful gardens full of native and foreign plants. Sloat Boulevard at Great Highway, 415.753.7080, sfzoo.org

BAY AREA ATTRACTIONS

outdoors, design and create high-tech projects and oversized structures. 557 McReynolds Road, Sausalito, 415.339.3900, bayareadiscoverymuseum.org JACK LONDON SQUARE Dining, shoping and entertainment plaza named author Jack London, who spent much of his boyhood on Oakland’s waterfront. Water Street and Broadway, Oakland, 510.645.9292, jacklondonsquare.com MOUNT TAMALPAIS STATE PARK Marin County’s highest peak (2,500 feet) is ideal for hiking, cycling and offers breathtaking views. Panoramic Highway, 415.388.2070, parks.ca.gov

ANGEL ISLAND This small island just off the Tiburon Peninsula offers hiking and biking trails, campsites, picnic facilities and spectacular views of the city. Purchase tickets from Blue and Gold Fleet or the Tiburon Ferry, 415.435.3972, angelisland.org

MUIR WOODS NATIONAL MONUMENT Famous grove of 400- to 800-year-old virgin redwoods that grow more than 250 feet tall. 1 Muir Woods Road, Mill Valley, 415.561.2850; parking/shuttle; reservations: 800.410.2419, nps.gov/muwo

BAY AREA DISCOVERY MUSEUM Interactive learning center lets children play

OAKLAND ZOO The Oakland Zoo is home to more than 750 native and exotic animals and is

recognized for its outstanding animal care. 9777 Golf Links Road, Oakland, 510.632.9525, oaklandzoo.org UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA BOTANICAL GARDEN The 34-acre botanical garden at UC Berkeley exhibits over 10,000 types of plants. It features nine regions of plantings from Italy to South Africa, as well as California native plants. 200 Centennial Drive, Berkeley, 510.643.2755, botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu WINCHESTER MYSTERY HOUSE The Winchester Rifle heiress spent 38 years directing construction of the 160-room home, which is full of bizarre and unorthodox features, including doors that open to nowhere. 525 S. Winchester Blvd., San Jose, 408.247.2000, winchestermysteryhouse.com

MUSEUMS BEAT MUSEUM Dedicated to the poetry and social movement that made San Francisco part of literary history, this museum

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ATTRACTIONS & EXPLORE showcases artifacts from Jack Kerouac, Lawrence Ferlinghetti and others. 540 Broadway, 800.537.6822, front desk: 415.399.9626, kerouac.com CABLE CAR MUSEUM Museum in the historic Washington-Mason cable car depot and powerhouse that houses a historic cable cars, photographs and mechanical displays.

1201 Mason St., 415.474.1887, cablecarmuseum.org CALIFORNIA ACADEMY OF SCIENCES The academy is an international center for scientific education and research and the only museum in the world to house an aquarium, planetarium and natural history museum under one (living) roof. 55 Music Concourse Drive, 415.379.8000, calacademy.org CHILDREN’S CREATIVITY MUSEUM This hands-on, multimedia arts and technology experience for kids promotes 21st-century skills. 221 4th St., 415.820.3320, creativity.org EXPLORATORIUM This educational center offers an array of interactive scientific exhibits and hands-on displays that stimulate the senses and mind. Pier 15, 415.528.4444, exploratorium.edu GLBT HISTORY MUSEUM Celebrating the San Francisco gay, lesbian, bisexual and transgender community through dynamic exhibitions and programming. 4127 18th St., 415.621.1107, glbthistory.org MUSÉE MÉCANIQUE Come see one of the world’s largest privately owned collections of coin-operated mechanical music boxes and antique arcade games in working condition.

Free admission daily. Pier 45 at Taylor Street on Fisherman’s Wharf, 415.346.2000, museemecaniquesf.com WALT DISNEY FAMILY MUSEUM This museum tells the story of the man behind the Disney magic. The tale of Walt Disney comes to life in galleries with voice clips, home videos and family photographs. 104 Montgomery St. in the Presidio, 415.345.6800, waltdisney.org

BAY CRUISES ALCATRAZ CRUISES Official concessioner for the National

Park Service. See Alcatraz, one of San Francisco’s most popular attractions, or take a combo tour of Alcatraz and Angel Island. Ticket Booth: Pier 33, 415.981.7625, alcatrazcruises.com BLUE AND GOLD FLEET Blue and Gold Fleet offers tours of the Bay and Alcatraz. A free audio tour is available on select tours in nine languages. Bring WiFi-enabled devices to access the tour. Pier 41, 415.705.8200, blueandgoldfleet.com RED AND WHITE FLEET Sail under the Golden Gate Bridge and around Alcatraz aboard the one-hour Golden Gate Bay Cruise. All cruises depart from Pier 43 1/2, Fisherman’s Wharf, 415.673.2900, redandwhite.com SAN FRANCISCO BAY BOAT CRUISES, INC. Explore the San Francisco Bay and taste wines aboard the city’s only floating tasting room. Sip from a large selection of California wines. Pier 39, 415.859.7052, sanfranciscobayboatcruise.com

BIKE RENTALS BAY WHEELS Explore San Francisco with Bay Wheels, a bike share system with docking stations around the Bay Area. Rides start at just $2. Requires the Lyft app. San Francisco and Bay Area, 855.480.2453, lyft.com BLAZING SADDLES Bike on your own or take a tour with this biking adventure company, offering locations at Fisherman’s Wharf, the Financial District and Union Square. 415.202.8888, blazingsaddles.com

DISCOUNT TICKETS CITYPASS Save 46% or more at the Bay Area’s major attractions. Choose between a booklet of four preset and one option tickets or a booklet of three tickets to attractions of your choice. citypass.com

PRIVATE TRANSPORTATION ACE PARKING Don’t waste time searching for a place to park.

Easily find available parking or a place to charge your electric vehicle with Ace Parking. Check online for locations. 855.223.7275, aceparking.com ENTERPRISE EXOTIC CAR COLLECTION From sports cars

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to sedans and SUVs, this is one of the largest selections of highend vehicles from some of the world’s top luxury manufacturers. 233 Ellis St., 415.542.6023; SFO: 780 N. McDonnell Road, 650.933.0124, exoticcars. enterprise.com PARK ‘N FLY The closest parking lot to the San Francisco International Airport, Park ‘N Fly offers valet parking, door-todoor shuttle service, luggage assistance and 24-hour security.

Open 24/7. 160 Produce Ave., South San Francisco; lot contact: 650.877.8438; reservation help: 800.325.4863, pnf.com

PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION BART Bay Area Rapid Transit trains serve the city of San Francisco, as well as San Francisco and Oakland International airports, Berkeley, Oakland and other Bay Area destinations. 510.464.6000, bart.gov CALTRAIN Offering commuter rail service along the San Francisco Peninsula, through the South Bay to San Jose and Gilroy. One-way tickets range from $3.75-$15. 800.660.4287, caltrain.com CLIPPER CARD Available for use on Muni, BART, CalTrain and more, this is an all-in-one transit card that keeps track of any passes, discount tickets, ride books and cash value loaded onto it. clippercard.com FERRIES Golden Gate Ferry offers trips to Sausalito, Larkspur and Tiburon. Blue and Gold Fleet offers trips to Sausalito, Tiburon, Angel Island, Vallejo and Alameda/Oakland. San Francisco Bay Ferry offers trips from Pier 41, SF Ferry Building, Oracle Park, South San Francisco, Mare Island, Vallejo, Richmond, Oakland, Alameda and Harbor Bay. sfport.com MUNI Citywide bus and lightrail service. Muni Passports, good for unlimited rides for one, three or seven days, are available at the Visitor Information Center at the BART station on Powell and Market streets.

415.701.2311, sfmuni.com

TOURS ALL ABOUT CHINATOWN TOURS This cultural, historical and culinary walking tour of

Chinatown includes a look into architectural history, an herbal pharmacy and a fortune cookie factory. Tours depart from Old St. Mary’s Cathedral at 660 California St., 415.982.8839, allaboutchinatown.com AVITAL TOURS Visit some of the city’s best eateries and bars and take in the sights as your guide shares engaging historical anecdotes. 415.355.4044, avitaltours.com BARBARY COAST TRAIL TOURS The Barbary Coast Trail is a 3.8-mile walk through the heart of historic San Francisco and leads to 20 of the city’s most important historic sites. 415.537.1105, sfhistory.org BIG BUS TOURS Take a tour through San Francisco and learn about its rich history and culture aboard an open-top bus, hopping on and off at any of the 20 stops located throughout the city. 855.854.8687, bigbustours.com CRUISIN’ THE CASTRO TOURS Learn about San Francisco and its role in the gay rights movement on this walking tour that explores one of the oldest and largest LGBTQ+ neighborhoods in the country. Tours meet at the Rainbow Flag pole near 400 Castro St., 415.550.8110, cruisinthecastro.com ELECTRICT TOUR COMPANY—SEGWAY TOURS Sign up for fully guided Segway tours of Fisherman’s Wharf and the waterfront, Golden Gate Park, Chinatown and Lombard Street. One-on-one training is provided. Participants must be over 12 years of age and weigh 100-250 pounds.

757 Beach St.; 82 Hagiwara Tea Garden Drive, 415.474.3130, electrictourcompany.com GRAY LINE OF SAN FRANCISCO Offers more than 30 tours in the Bay Area and beyond, including Muir Woods and Sausalito, Napa and Sonoma, and Yosemite National Park.

Pier 41 Marine Terminal; 478 Post St., 415.353.5310, graylineofsanfrancisco.com JELLY BELLY FACTORY TOURS. Learn the secrets behind the company’s famous candy on guided and self-guided tours of the candy factory. 1 Jelly Belly Lane, Fairfield, 800.953.5592, jellybelly.com

ATTRACTIONS & EXPLORE LUCKY TUK TUK These modern-day rickshaws go where buses can’t. See the city up close on the 2.5-hour guided Ultimate SF City Tour; taste craft beer on the Craft Beer Crawl. Pick-up locations: Fisherman’s Wharf on Taylor Street in front of Applebee’s, or Union Square on Post Street at side entrance for Westin St. Francis Hotel, 415.851.9190, lucky-tuk-tuk.com SAN FRANCISCO ARCHITECTURE WALKING TOUR Guide Rick Evans leads a two-hour tour of San Francisco’s most famous downtown buildings and historic landmarks.

Reservations required. Tours begin in the lobby of the Galleria Park Hotel, 191 Sutter St.; text only: 415.264.8824, architecturesf.com SAN FRANCISCO CITY GUIDES Sponsored by the San Francisco Public Library, guided free tours for a range of interests, from Alfred Hitchcock’s San Francisco to a Golden Gate Bridge walk. 415.557.4266, sfcityguides.org

SAN FRANCISCO HELICOPTER TOURS These narrated tours offer bird’s-eye views of the city and attractions such as the Golden Gate Bridge, Alcatraz and more. Complimentary pickup from Fisherman’s Wharf, Union Square and Nob Hill. All tours depart from the Executive Terminal at SFO, 800.400.2404, 650.635.4500, sfhelicopters.com SAN FRANCISCO MOVIE TOURS Watch clips from dozens of movies shot in San Francisco as you pass the actual film locations on this three-hour bus tour. 888.217.1871, sanfranciscomovietours.com SEAPLANE ADVENTURES Get a bird’s-eye view of the city and the bay on this flying tour, which takes passengers soaring above the Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco skyline, Alcatraz and the Pacific coastline. 242 Redwood Highway Frontage Road, Mill Valley, 415.332.4843, seaplane.com URBAN HIKER SAN FRANCISCO Get in a workout

and take advantage of San Francisco’s great hiking in city limits. Trek hills, stairways and trails and take in incredible views. 415.669.4453, urbanhikersf.com

VISITOR CENTERS VISIT BERKELEY Less than a 30-minute drive from San Francisco, Berkeley is your destination for arts and culture, with more than 100 cultural organizations, and for dining, with more than 350 restaurants citywide.

2030 Addison St., Berkeley, 510.549.7040, visitberkeley.com MARIN CONVENTION & VISITORS BUREAU Visitors information on where to stay, who to meet, things to do and places to explore in Marin County. 1 Mitchell Blvd., San Rafael, 415.925.2060, visitmarin.org PRESIDIO VISITOR CENTER The Center is home to a largescale Presidio model, as well as a variety of exhibits and interactive displays focusing on the nature, culture and history of the former

military base. 210 Lincoln Blvd., 415.561.4323, presidio.gov SAUSALITO CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Reach Sausalito over the Golden Gate Bridge or by 30-minute ferry ride.

Special holiday events include the 13th Annual Gingerbread House Tour, Lighted Boat Parade and Fireworks, and the Jingle Bell 5K Run and Pancake Brunch.

1913 Bridgeway, Sausalito, 415.331.7262, sausalito.org S.F. TRAVEL Staff at the San Francisco Visitor Information Center can help with maps, guides, tour and attraction tickets and passes for Muni and the Cable Car. Inside the Moscone South Building, Fourth and Howard streets, sftravel.com/vic TUOLUMNE COUNTY VISITORS BUREAU Tuolumne County is the place for Yosemite explorations, Gold Country discoveries and High Sierra adventures, just two and a half hours east of the San Francisco Bay Area. 193 S. Washington St., Sonora, 209.533.4420, visittuolumne.com

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WINE COUNTRY St., Yountville, 707.944.2451, vmarketplace.com

TOURS & ATTRACTIONS BIN 415 Bin 415 offers excursions hosted by a certified sommelier to wineries in Napa and Sonoma. Bin 415 also offers tours throughout San Francisco, Sausalito, Muir Woods and the Pacific Coast Highway. 415.851.5711, bin415.com CIA AT COPIA The Culinary Institute of America at Copia offers cooking classes and a store of kitchen goods. The Restaurant at CIA Copia offers Mediterranean-inspired California cuisine and an extensive wine list. 500 1st St., Napa, 707.967.2500, ciaatcopia.com

Beringer Vineyards has revamped its Napa Valley property for new private outdoor tasting experiences. Visitors can choose from 1- to 2-hour experiences that include: a vineyard walkabout and brunch on the Home Estate Vineyard; tasting in the Beringer Backyard; and enjoying vino and views on the promenade of the original winery building. Reservations are required for all tastings. 2000 Main Street, St. Helena, 707.257.5771, beringer.com/visit/tastings DINING BOUCHON BISTRO More relaxed than the French Laundry but stemming from the same culinary tradition, Bouchon is the place to find quality French meals. 6534 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.8037, thomaskeller.com THE FRENCH LAUNDRY Chef Thomas Keller’s staff serves contemporary French cuisine.

Order one of two multiple-course chef’s tasting menus, including a vegetarian option. Reservations are taken up to two months in advance. 6640 Washington St., Yountville, 707.944.2380, frenchlaundry.com THE GIRL & THE FIG Country French cuisine showcasing fresh regional ingredients and a nice selection of artisanal cheeses make this a singularly pleasurable

dining experience at Sonoma Plaza. 110 W. Spain St., Sonoma, 707.938.3634, thegirlandthefig.com GOTT’S ROADSIDE Gott’s Roadside serves up worth-waiting-in-line-for American food.

The burgers, fries and shakes are the best around, and the gourmet sandwiches, seafood and wine list add a touch of class. 933 Main St., St. Helena, 707.963.3486; 644 1st St., Napa, 707.224.6900; 1 Ferry Building, 415.318.3423, gottsroadside.com MODEL BAKERY For more than 90 years, this bakery has remained true to producing fresh and organic artisan treats daily, ranging from signature breads to delicious cinnamon buns. 644 1st St., Napa, 707.259.1128; 1357 Main St., St. Helena, 707.963.8192, themodelbakery.com

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SHOPPING

THE PETRIFIED FOREST Geologists call this one of the finest examples of a Pliocene fossil forest in the world.

Author Robert Louis Stevenson even wrote about it in his book Silverado Squatters. 4100 Petrified Forest Road, Calistoga, 707.942.6667, petrifiedforest.org

WINERIES

THE BARLOW A stretch of renovated warehouses is home to some of the best local food producers, winemakers, brewers and artisans. 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol, 707.824.5600, thebarlow.net

ARTESA WINERY Founded by a Catalan family that has been handcrafting wines since the 16th century, this Carneros winery focuses on producing small, ultrapremium lots. 1345 Henry Road, Napa, 707.224.1668, artesawinery.com

OXBOW PUBLIC MARKET Visit this gourmet mall for the freshest local ingredients and order from the independent eateries offering elevated takes on pizza, burgers and tacos. 610 & 644 1st St., Napa, 707.226.6529, oxbowpublicmarket.com

B.R. COHN Specializing in estate-grown cabernet sauvignon and merlot wines, this winery also produces award-winning olive oils and vinegars. Tastings open to the public; tours by appointment. 15000 Sonoma Hwy., Glen Ellen, 707.938.4064, brcohn.com

V MARKETPLACE This Wine Country destination is home to several boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and gift shops where you can find gourmet foods, jewelry, clothing and home accessories. 6525 Washington

BEAULIEU VINEYARD This over-100-year-old winery is the production site for the flagship cabernet sauvignon. A French winemaker founded Beaulieu to produce wine that rivals France’s. 1960 St. Helena Hwy.,

COURTESY BERINGER VINEYARDS

Taste of the Outdoors

NAPA VALLEY WINE TRAIN Passengers sip select Napa Valley wines and indulge in gourmet cuisine as they ride past vineyards on these three-hour lunch and dinner tours aboard Pullman coaches. Reservations recommended. 1275 McKinstry St., Napa, 800.427.4124, 707.253.2111, winetrain.com

WINE COUNTRY Rutherford, 707.257.5749, bvwines.com BERINGER VINEYARDS Beringer is known for its cabernet sauvignons and bold, oaky chardonnays. 2000 Main St., St. Helena, 707.257.5771, beringer.com BUENA VISTA WINERY This California Historic Landmark (founded in 1857) offers worldclass cabernets, pinot noirs, chardonnays and zinfandels. Tasting room open seven days a week, year-round. 18000 Old Winery Road, Sonoma, 800.926.1266, buenavistawinery.com CAKEBREAD CELLARS A Napa Green Certified Winery since 2008, this winery is an enthusiastic advocate of pairing food with wine. Cakebread cabernets and chardonnays are well-known and delicious. 8300 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 800.588.0298, cakebread.com CASTELLO DI AMOROSA Visit this 13th-century Tuscanstyle castle that took 15 years to build. Find an award-winning collection of wines, including sangiovese, merlot and cabernet sauvignon. 4045 St. Helena Hwy. N., Calistoga, 707.967.6272, castellodiamorosa.com CHARLES KRUG Since its opening in 1861, Charles Krug winery has produced awardwinning estate-grown cabernets and renowned sauvignon blanc.

Tasting room open daily.

2800 Main St., St. Helena, 800.682.5784, charleskrug.com CHATEAU MONTELENA WINERY This Napa winery’s chardonnay earned international recognition at the 1976 Tasting of Paris when it won best white wine in the world, and the winery still produces great wines. Visit the tasting room in the Westin St. Francis hotel. 1429 Tubbs Lane, Calistoga, 707.942.5105, montelena.com CLINE CELLARS This smallproduction winery produces Rhone varietals and zinfandel from some of the oldest vines in California. The 1850s farmhouse is surrounded by warm mineral springs and dozens of rose bushes. 24737 Arnold Drive, Sonoma, 800.546.2070, clinecellars.com CLOS DU BOIS Chardonnay, cabernet and merlot are the

most popular selections at this large Alexander Valley winery. A scenic picnic area overlooks rolling vineyards. Tastings and tours are open to the public. 19410 Geyserville Ave., Geyserville, 800.222.3189, closdubois.com DOMAINE CARNEROS Champagne’s famed Tattinger family founded this winery.

The Le Reve sparkling wine is compared to the top cuvées from Champagne, while the chardonnays and pinot noirs hold their own, too.

1240 Duhig Road, Napa, 800.716.2788, domainecarneros.com DRY CREEK VINEYARD Dry Creek Vineyard was the first winery to reopen in the Dry Creek Valley after Prohibition.

The flagship varietal is fumé blanc, and signature wines include chenin blanc, chardonnay, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon. 3770 Lambert Bridge Road, Healdsburg, 707.433.1000, drycreekvineyard.com FAR NIENTE The winery so committed to quality that it only produces one chardonnay and one cabernet sauvignon each year is open to the public. Tours and tastings by appointment.

The gardens are famous for their azaleas. 1350 Acacia Drive, Oakview, 707.944.2861, farniente.com FRANCIS FORD COPPOLA WINERY At this winery in the heart of picturesque Alexander Valley, sip from more than 40 wines produced on-site and eat authentic, Neapolitanstyle pizzas and South American wood-grilled meats.

300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville, 707.857.1471, francisfordcoppolawinery.com GLORIA FERRER CAVES & VINEYARDS Gloria Ferrer produces some of California’s best sparkling wines, as well as estate varietal pinot noir and chardonnay. Guided winery tours include tastes of three sparkling and one estate varietal wine. 23555 Hwy. 121, Sonoma, 866.845.6742, gloriaferrer.com J VINEYARDS & WINERY J Vineyards produces a vintage brut, plus a selection of still wines (notably pinot noir) from its Russian River Valley vineyards. 11447 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg, 888.594.6326, jwine.com

KENZO ESTATE Kenzo Estate is Napa’s only winery with a tasting menu from famed chef Thomas Keller. The winery produces beautiful varieties of cabernet sauvignon. Tours and tastings by appointment.

3200 Monticello Road, Napa, 877.977.7704, kenzoestate.com KUNDE ESTATE WINERY & VINEYARDS The family’s scenic 1,850-acre sustainably farmed estate has been managed by five generations since 1904. The winery specializes in chardonnay, cabernet, sauvignon blanc and merlot. 9825 Sonoma Hwy., Kenwood, 707.833.5501, kunde.com LOUIS M. MARTINI WINERY For 85 years, Louis M. Martini Winery has embodied a simple, honest premise: The best grapes make the best wines. Today, Michael Eddy carries on this tradition at the historic winery in Napa Valley with his range of cabernet sauvignon wines. 254 St. Helena Hwy. S., St. Helena, 707.968.3362, louismartini.com NAPA CELLARS Napa Cellars’ tasting room pours varietals from three sister wineries: Napa Cellars, Folie à Deux and Ménage à Trois. Relax on the winery’s patio, bring a picnic and enjoy one of the award-winning varietals. 7481 St. Helena Hwy. S., Oakville, 800.535.6400, napacellars.com OPUS ONE WINERY A joint venture between Baron Philippe de Rothschild and Robert Mondavi led to the creation of Opus One, the highly prized, limited-edition wine blend of cabernet sauvignon, petit verdot, cabernet franc, merlot and malbec. 7900 St. Helena Hwy., Oakville, 707.944.9442, opusonewinery.com PLUMPJACK WINERY The winery is best known for its highly rated cabernet sauvignons.

The winery helped pioneer the use of screw caps on wine bottles. 620 Oakville Cross Road, Napa, 707.945.1220, plumpjackwinery.com PRISONER WINE COMPANY The Prisoner Wine Company, known for its thought-provoking label designs, has a tasting lounge that creates an experience free from the traditional pomp and circumstance of wine tasting. 1178 Galleron Road, St.

Helena, 877.283.5934, theprisonerwinecompany.com ROBERT MONDAVI WINERY This winery is a Napa Green Certified Winery and Certified California Sustainable Winegrowing. A full selection of Mondavi wines is available for tasting in the Vineyard room, while the To Kalon room pours reserves and limited-production wines. Reservations strongly recommended. 7801 St. Helena Hwy., Oakville, 888.766.6328, robertmondaviwinery.com ROMBAUER VINEYARDS Founder Koerner Rombauer’s great-aunt was Irma Rombauer, author of The Joy of Cooking. This small-production winery produces ultrapremium chardonnays, cabernet sauvignons, zinfandels and merlots. Tastings by appointment. 3522 Silverado Trail N., St. Helena, 866.280.2582, rombauervineyards.com ROSENBLUM CELLARS Zinfandel reigns at this winery, which has produced over 50 zinfandels that have earned 90 points or more from Wine Spectator. 10 Clay St., Oakland, 877.478.9467, rosenblumcellars.com RUTHERFORD RANCH This estate has a 100-year-old olive grove and focuses on sustainability in the production of its wines. 1680 Silverado Trail S., St. Helena, 707.968.3200, rutherfordranch.com SCHUG CARNEROS ESTATE WINERY This winery’s pinot noir is internationally acclaimed.

Tours by appointment. Winery: 602 Bonneau Road, Sonoma, 707.939.9363; tasting room: 452 1st St. E., Sonoma, 707.343.1255, schugwinery.com SCRIBE WINERY Scribe Winery is a photographer’s dream, with sun-dappled hills and wildflowers. The wine, made with wild yeasts, is solid and includes varietals like riesling, chardonnay, syrah and pinot noir.

2100 Denmark St., Sonoma, 707.939.1858, scribewinery.com SEBASTIANI VINEYARDS & WINERY2 One of Northern California’s oldest winemaking families—the first vineyard was cleared in 1825—produces a broad range of wine with grapes from seven Sonoma regions. 389 4th St. E., Sonoma, 707.933.3230, sebastiani.com

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 43

WINE COUNTRY SEGHESIO FAMILY VINEYARDS This long-standing Italian family winery (2015 marked its 120th anniversary in Sonoma County) produces top-notch zinfandel and sangiovese on 400 acres.

700 Grove St., Healdsburg, 707.433.3579, seghesio.com ST. SUPERY ESTATE VINEYARDS & WINERY Family-owned and sustainably farmed, this winery offers an art gallery, scenic grounds, tours and hands-on interactive wine experiences such as creating your own white wine blend. 8440 St. Helena Hwy., Rutherford, 707.963.4507, stsupery.com STAG’S LEAP WINE CELLARS Best known for its estate cabernet sauvignons, this Napa Valley first-growth estate gained recognition in 1976, when its SLV Cabernet Sauvignon was judged the best red wine in the world at the Paris Tasting. 5766 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707.944.2020, stagsleapwinecellars.com STAGS’ LEAP WINERY Not to be confused with Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, this winery produces Rhône varietals and cabernet sauvignon, chardonnay and merlot. Open by appointment only. 6150 Silverado Trail, Napa, 707.257.5790, stagsleap.com STERLING VINEYARDS Take in panoramic views of Napa Valley on an aerial tram ride to this winery, which was modeled after the Greek Island Mykonos. The winery tower houses bells from London’s Church of St. Dunstan’s-inthe-East. 1111 Dunaweal Lane, Calistoga, 800.726.6136, sterlingvineyards.com

WENTE VINEYARDS The country’s oldest continuously operating family-owned winery offers wine tastings, vineyard and garden tours, workshops, an upscale restaurant and a scenic 18-hole golf course. 5565 Tesla Road, Livermore, 925.456.2405, wentevineyards.com

44 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

VisitTCToday.com/WhereTraveler

COURTESY FAR NIENTE WINERY

SUTTER HOME WINERY Sutter Home Winery is one of the largest independent, familyowned wineries in the country.

Sutter is known for creating white zinfandel, and its portfolio features 20 different varietals. 277 St. Helena Hwy. S., St. Helena, 707.963.3104, sutterhome.com

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101 Jefferson Square

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Copyright Š 2020

Embarcadero

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To get around San Francisco, public transportation is recommended. For information, call 511, or visit 511.org. Clipper Cards are all-in-one transit James R. Herman cards available for use on MUNI, BART, CalTrain and more, clippercard.com.

ST CHESTNUT

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.25mi .5km

CHASE CENTER

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER  SAN  FRANCISCO  45

MAPS / SAN FRANCISCO To: Sausalito & Wine Country

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46 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

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Lincoln Park

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where traveler San Francisco

T LO OP Presidio Of San Francisco

N RD PTO GTON BLVD COM IN SH WA

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STILW ELL

Copyright © 2020

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49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

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To get around San Francisco, public transportation is recommended. For information, call 511, or visit 511.org. Clipper Cards are all-in-one transit cards available for use on MUNI, BART, CalTrain and more, clippercard.com.

China Beach

AVE BE HOCK KO BHITC

T MASON S

The Walt Disney Family Museum

PATTEN ST

N BL V

D

Baker Beach

ST

Shopping Area

Crissy Field

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1 km

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University/College 1 mi

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MAR

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MASO N

Scenic Drive

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

BART Stop .25

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T RD YACH Marina Green Park

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Ferry Line

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U.S. Highway

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49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

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26TH ST

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St Mary's Recreation Center

TREAT AVE

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NEWMAN ST HIGHLAND AVE PARK ST PA R K CIR RICHLAND AVE Holly Park

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AL HEI GHTS BLVD BERN POWHATTAN AVE

P I E R 40

20TH ST

POTRERO McKinley HILL Square

26TH STJames Rolph Jr

CITA PRE

where traveler

PIER 36 PIER 38

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Jackson Playground

Potrero Del Sol Park

E A AV ALT PER ST ALM NTC MO E ST RUTLE D G COSTA ST BERNAL RIPLEY ST

Precita Park

HARRISON ST

PARK ST

MAR INA ST

ST SHOTWELL

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BESSIE ST

DAVIS ST

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HORACE ST

CITA AVE PRE

DRUMM ST

FRONT ST

ST

BALMY ST

LUCKY ST

MISSION ST

LILAC ST

Garfield Square

PIER 30 49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

T AN

N

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San Francisco General Hospital

25TH ST

30

ST

T ER LB GI

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ST

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49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

101

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23RD ST

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ST SANSOME

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JOICE ST

POWELL ST TAYLOR ST

15TH ST

Franklin Square

ST

ST

19

Bay Bridge to Treasure Island, East Bay and Oakland International Airport

TS T

Transbay Terminal

T A S 1ST TIN ST EN EM CL XS T 2

30

NT YA BR

DIVISION ST

15TH ST

NORTH GATE

T KEARNY S

ST

MASON ST JONES ST

ST TH 11

CAPP ST

S VAN NESS AVE

SHOTWELL ST

RANDALL ST FAIRMOUNT ST

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LAID LE MIGUEL S Y ST T

GLEN PARK

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ST

21ST ST

POPLAR ST SAN JOSE AVE

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CHURCH ST

30TH ST

ST ON Y ST AC S BE DIGB O ON EVERS DDIS ST A ITT FF MO

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ST EU AR

ST

Children's Creativity Museum

ST

ALAMEDA ST

NATOMA ST

AMES ST

CHURCH ST

DAY ST

WHITNEY ST

AY

BERKE L

ST SUSSEX ST

SANCHEZ ST

CASTRO ST

DIAMOND ST

CT

ARB

ark tion er

29TH ST

6T H

101

24th & Mission

NOE ST

BLVD

DR GO NE E Y WL D MI AY

VALLEY ST

Billy Goat Hill Park Walter Haas Playground

ST

14TH ST

16th & Mission

7T H

ST

KAMILLE CT

28TH ST

T OLD M IN E OPA ZW

12TH ST

CESAR CHAVEZ

27TH ST

pher ound

10 TH

HILL ST

26TH ST

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PLUM ST

CESAR CHAVEZ ST

DUNCAN ST

9T H

CENT RAL FWY

MISSION ST

GUERRERO ST

CHATTANOOGA ST

HOMESTEAD ST

25TH ST CLIPPER ST

Douglass Playground

ST

ST

14

JERSEY ST

Y

LAF AYE TTE

SAN CARLOS ST LEXINGTON ST VALENCIA ST LAPIDGE ST LINDA ST

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

24th Street Noe Valley

24TH ST

RD WA HO

14

ST

QUANE ST

ELIZABETH ST

ST MA TO NA

3R D

MISSION

NELLIE ST VICKSBURG ST BLANCHE ST

ALVARADO ST 23RD ST

11 TH ST

CAPP ST

ALBION ST

GUERRERO ST

HILL ST

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Civic Center

19

Valencia Street

NOE VALLEY

22ND ST

RTH ST LEAVENWO

OTIS ST

WIESE ST HOFF ST ST WOODWARDJULIA N AVE CALEDONIA ST VALENCIA ST

DOLORES ST

21ST ST

T AS TIN EN EM CL

38

ND

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14

5 5

San Francisco Museum of Modern Art

Moscone Center

Metreon Moscone Center West

14

20TH ST

J

LIBERTY ST 21ST ST

101

ST

CUMBERLAND ST

20TH ST

VARADO ST

OAKWOOD ST

19TH ST

T TS

CLARION ALLEY SYCAMORE ST

DORLAND ST

Mission Dolores Park

HANCOCK ST

CASTRO ST

WIN ST

COLLINGWOOD ST

DIAMOND ST

EUREKA ST

DOUGLASS ST

D ST

Old Mission Dolores

CHURCH ST

18TH ST

CASTRO

16TH ST

DORLAND ST

FORD ST

Castro Theatre

GO UG H

F

ELGIN PARK PEARL ST

E RK MA 17TH ST

T YS AD BR

BLVD

T TS

RAMONA AVE

F PROSPER ST POND ST NOE ST

T ST FLIN

SHARON ST

J

15TH ST 16TH ST

J

CLINTON PARK BROSNAN ST

LANDERS ST

HENRY ST BEAVER ST

MW A ATE Y S ST

SANCHEZ ST

14TH ST

BELCHER ST

DUBOCE AVE

WALTER ST

W ELT

J

Duboce Park

NOE ST

CASTRO ST

DIVISADERO ST

ALPINE TER VE E BUENA VISTA TER TA A VIS NA

N

TH

12

OCTAVIA

CK ST BRODERI

HAIGHT ST

LAUSSAT ST

ST GERMANIA ST HERMANN

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Centre

Powell St.

F ON ST NS VE STE

L

FULTON ST

GROVE ST

OAK ST

WALLER ST LLOYD ST

ST LARKIN

Civic Center City Hall Plaza

HICKORY ST

PAGE ST ROSE ST

Hallidie Plaza

J

Asian Art Museum

SIE JES

YE Contemporary RB Jewish Museum AB UE Yerba Buena NA Center For LN The Arts

Justin Herman Plaza

Embarcadero

ST

Ferry to: AL/OAK HARBOR BAY FERRY GATE E

F

38

BUSH ST

Montbomery St.

Westfield MASan Francisco

EDDY ST TURK ST

5

LINDEN ST

Patricia's Green

HAYES VALLEY

Glide Memorial

CIVIC CENTER

ER ST MCALLIST

HAYES ST

IVY ST

LOWER HAIGHT

HYDE ST

GATE AVE GOLDEN

SF War Memorial & Performing Arts Center

BIRCH ST

Painted Ladies at Alamo Square

POLK ST

S AVE VAN NES

5

LITTLE SAIGON

ELM ST

101

ST GOUGH

ST BUCHANAN

LAGUNA ST

E ST FILLMOR

PIERCE ST

STEINER ST

SCOTT ST

O ST DIVISADER

Alamo Square

ST WEBSTER

ELM ST

Jefferson Square

Margaret S Hayward Playground

WESTERN ADDITION

DDY ST

ELLIS ST ST FRANKLIN

RRELL ST

LIS ST

EE

POWELL ST

ST

ORBEN PL WILLOW ST

Raymond Kimball Playground

TENDERLOIN

Crocker Galleria

E MAIDEN LAN

38

ro Center

Embarcade

CLAY ST

PINE ST

Union Square

38

ST OFARRELL St Mary's Cathedral

Chinatown Dragon Gate

Union Square

POST ST

JAPANTOWN

38

Ferry to: VALLEJO FERRY GATE B

R1 PIE

Walton Square

A ST CALIFORNI

Grace Cathedral

SUTTER ST

ST OFARRELL

AVE PACIFIC Sydney G

FINANCIAL DISTRICT

BUSH ST

FILLMORE

Hamilton Recreation Center

RY BLVD

T VALLEJO S Y ST BROADWA

L ST COMMERCIA

PINE ST

ST

E S T RD

F r a n c i s c o B a y

Ferry Building

A ST CALIFORNI

GEARY ST

S a n

7 R 1 Exploratorium PIE 5 R1 PIE R9 PIE

GREEN ST

N ST WASHINGTO

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

NOB HILL

OR

Embarcadero 3 R2 PIE 9 R1 PIE

UNION ST

TELEGRAPH 39 HILL

Y TUNNEL BROADWA

O ST SACRAMENT

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

BUE

TAYLOR ST

LARKIN ST

HYDE ST

S AVE VAN NES

POLK ST

ST FRANKLIN

GOUGH

OCTAVIA ST

LAGUNA ST

ST BUCHANAN

ST WEBSTER

E ST FILLMOR

STEINER ST

PIERCE ST

Lafayette Park

A ST

UCSF

CO Washington LU Square MB US AV E

30

CLAY ST

Fillmore

ST EN ST

COIT Tower FILBERT ST

ST JACKSON

PERINE PL

ST LOMBARD H ST GREENWIC FILBERT ST

NORTH BEACH

19

Alta Plaza

O ST

ST CHESTNUT Pioneer Park

Transamerica Pyramid

N ST WASHINGTO

YERBA BUENA ISLND SF IGNA L RD

AN D RD

James R. Herman Cruise Ship Terminal

CHINATOWN

PACIFIC HEIGHTS

ST

ST LOMBARD

RTH ST LEAVENWO

Polk Street Russian Hill

F

39

49 MILE SCENIC DRIVE

ST GREENWICH FILBERT ST

RUSSIAN HILL

101

Union Street

POWELL ST

101

STOCKTON

ST CHESTNUT Lombard Street

MACA LL A RD

Pier 35

PFEIFFER ST

WATER ST

ST FRANCISCO

COW HOLLOW

A ST MAGNOLI

MBARD ST MOULTON ST ST REENWICH PIXLEY ST

BAY ST

19

ST FRANCISCO

Moscone Recreation Center

30

30

ST

TAYLOR ST

T AS

STNUT ST

BAY ST

M

ST

Ghirardelli Square

INT NORTH PO

F

Anchorage The Square Cannery BEACH ST

DR

39

MASON ST

BR

NT NORTH POI

WAY ALLORCA

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BEACH ST

BLV D

N ST JEFFERSO

JONES ST

Y

Fort Mason

ST JEFFERSON ST LAGUNA

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AY

Aquatic Park

IN ST FRANKL

EN DR RINA GRE

CO WA Y

Cable Car

Ferry to: Alcatraz Island

Aquarium of the Bay

THE EMBAR CADERO

HYDE ST

VE VAN NESS A

Golden Gate Nat'l Recreation Area

Pier 39

Pier 41

Fisherman’s Wharf

Hyde Street Pier

SL TREASURE I

PIE R4 5

Hyde St. Pier Historic Ships

NORTH GATE R D

Ferry to: Oakland

Ferry to: Sausalito,Tiburon and Angel Island

Hilltop Park

FALL 2020 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO 47

30 THINGS WE LOVE THIS FALL

26

9

23

20

1 The pedestrian-only Pier

8 The Vegan Hippy sand-

16 The meadow full

24 The massive original

7, a boardwalk with benches for picnicking or listening to Otis Redding. The Embarcadero, north of Pier 3.

wich from Bi-Rite Market near Dolores Park. p. 7

of poppies at Fort Winfield Scott on the west side of the Presidio. p. 19

model of Disneyland at the Walt Disney Family Museum. p. 40

17 Becoming a living

25 The reticulated giraffes

postcard with the murals on Umbrella Alley. 757 Beach St., umbrellaalley.com

in the African Savannah exhibit at the San Francisco Zoo. p. 39

Puttanesca at an outside table at Café Zoetrope in North Beach. p. 36

18 The new outdoor

26 Fried pork-belly tacos

cabanas for tastings at Charles Krug winery. p. 43

11 Making San Francisco’s

19 Cocktails on the plaza at

on the outdoor patio at Copita Taquileria y Comida in Sausalito. p. 30

4 Creamy Irish coffee at the

vertical terrain manageable on a Segway tour by Electric Tour Company. p. 40

the new Vault Garden. 555 California St. 415.508.4675, thevault555.com

Buena Vista Cafe, birthplace of the signature drink. p. 34

12 Getting lost in a forest

20 The elaborate Spanish-

5 The chic, leading-edge

on the Bay Area Ridge Trail in the Presidio. p. 39

style twin towers atop Mission Dolores Basilica in the Mission District. p. 38

2 The 13 botanical gardens in the park atop the Salesforce Transit Center. 415.597.5000, salesforcetransitcenter.com

3 Dazzling glass artwork

by Lino Tagliapietra at Montague Gallery near Union Square. p. 29

paintings and sculptures at CK Contemporary gallery on Union Square. p. 28

6 The “Bay Lights” show on the Bay Bridge from a table at Epic Steak. 415.284.9922, epicsteak.com

7 A steaming order of Tea Smoked Duck from Chinatown’s Z&Y Restaurant. 415.981.8988, zandyrestaurant.com

9 The mural of Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin and Jerry Garcia in Haight-Ashbury. Haight and Cole streets.

10 The Spaghetti alla

13 A crash-course in cannabis at the Apothecarium dispensary. p. 26

14 The bakers in the window at Boudin at the Wharf whipping up their famous sourdough rounds. p. 34

15 A bird’s-eye view of the city, Alcatraz and the Golden Gate Bridge with Seaplane Adventures. p. 41

48 WHERE TRAVELER SAN FRANCISCO FALL 2020

21 The “living fossils” in the Ancient Plants Garden at the San Francisco Botanical Gardens. p. 39

27 The famous hot fudge sundae from Ghirardelli Chocolate Marketplace at Ghirardelli Square. p. 38

28 The 49-Mile Scenic Drive, a road trip that hits most of the city’s most popular points. sftravel.com

29 The fresh produce

22 The inspiring Martin

and specialty foods at the Farmers Market at Jack London Square in Oakland. cuesa.org/markets

Luther King, Jr. Memorial at Yerba Buena Gardens. p. 39

30 The elaborate Lion’s

23 The Dahlia Garden by the Conservatory of Flowers in Golden Gate Park. p. 38

Gate, the official entrance to Chinatown and Grant Street shopping. Bush and Grant streets.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: SPUD HILTON; COURTESY VAULT GARDEN; SPUD HILTON (3)

19

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