Summer Dining

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Checking In

Chef, author and James Beard Foundation Award-winner Nancy Silverton unveils Italian steakhouse The Barish at the historic Hollywood Roosevelt, her first new restaurant in eight years. The room has floor-to-ceiling windows, mirrored columns, banquettes and Tuscan plate ware. The menu offers wood-fire-grilled beef dryaged in house, wood-fire-baked pastas and the Cal-Ital dishes for which Silverton is known, such as grilled abalone mushrooms with porcini butter. The restaurant’s name, heirlooms and sepia photographs honor her heritage: The Barishes were Jewish immigrants who settled in Canada in the 19th century to raise Angus cattle and Hampshire sheep. The Roosevelt hosted the first Academy Awards in 1929.

Grilled miso-marinated lamb, center, and from left, steamed custard with roe, clay-pot mushroom rice and sashimi

Good Things at Gozen Bistro

Director Hideaki Hosono—best known as Mr. Hide, pronounced hee-day—named his new Gozen Japanese Sake Bistro in West Hollywood for the concept “five good things”—good water, sake, meat, seafood and vegetables—that characterize the best Japanese cooking. (Go means “five.”) The meat: Angus-wagyu hybrid beef. The sake: small-batch junmai sakes exclusive to the venue. The cultural experience blends new and old. Though the space is modern, it’s lined with ukiyo-e prints, some three centuries old; among the handmade serving dishes are examples dating back two centuries. Elaborate seasonal kaiseki tasting menus are tiered from $80 to $240. Bento boxes to go are filled with sashimi and chirashi sushi as well as hot selections. The Gozen Express food truck offers custom donburi bowls.

Shellfish on ice at Bungalow Kitchen

Long Beach Short List

Renowned chef restaurateur Michael Mina and nightlife guru Brent Bolthouse together launch Bungalow Kitchen overlooking the marina at shopping destination 2nd and PCH. The vibe is chic and bohemian, eclectic and residential, with intriguing decor throughout. On the menu: chile garlic king crab; carbonara pizza; short-rib “pop tart” au poivre; and lobster pot pie. Chef Ross Pangilinan, whose Mix Mix Kitchen Bar in Santa Ana recently earned the Michelin Bib Gourmand, opens ReMix Kitchen Bar at the Long Beach Exchange. Eclectic small plates include roasted Brussels sprouts with Korean chile, citrus and peanuts; Filipino fried chicken with pickled chiles and calamansi honey; and pastas including shrimp and-bone-marrow arrabbiata. A duo known for their traditional German eateries unveil contemporary Cal-global Wood & Salt Tavern in the upscale neighborhood of Bixby Knolls. Menu highlights: Santa Carota beef tartare, Tehachapi Rye potato gnocchi, and wood-grilled whole dorade with Sicilian style caponata.