4 minute read
20/21 Vision
Outstanding new restaurants in Los Angeles not only survived but flourished under the most difficult of conditions.
By Roger Grody
Hindsight is 2020; in retrospect, few restaurateurs would have opted to launch a business in a year referred to in their industry as an “extinction event,” when countless dining establishments across the nation permanently shuttered. But some did, and in 2021 the future of their restaurants looks bright. Here are the best of them.
/ Mírame /
The spirit of Mexico meets the glamour of Beverly Hills at Mírame, one of the most beautiful restaurants to have opened when so many were going dark. Michelin-starred chef Joshua Gil turns out starters such as salmon-skin chicharrón, grilled octopus with chorizo velouté and beef-tongue taco; among mains are a Sonoma duck breast and leg confit and a whole fried Baja snapper with chili chintextle and tomatillo milpero. A lovely patio with wood-burning fireplace suits the south-of-the-border flavors. A modified opening built around takeout, delivery and outdoor dining last summer generated crucial buzz.
419 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills, 310.230.5035, mirame.la
/ Bull & Butterfly /
The Playa Vista spot offers a coastal rancho California twist on the steakhouse concept—and no mahogany and red leather but rather a bright and airy setting as envisioned by Lemonade founders Heidi and Alan Jackson. Grilled maple bacon with jalapeño jelly or kampachi-kumquat crudo precede Prime steaks or Baja seafood. Originally set to open in fall 2019, routine delay pushed Bull & Butterfly’s debut to winter, never good timing for a restaurant, so the owners settled on spring 2020 ... “then ‘boom,’ the pandemic hit,” recounts Alan Jackson. The restaurant and popular patio opened in September and have operated since without interruption.
12746 Jefferson Blvd., Playa Vista, 213.267.2900, bullandbutterfly.com
/ Mora Italiano at Comoncy /
The sister restaurant of chef Mindy Oh’s beloved San Fernando Valley establishment debuted on a rooftop in L.A.’s Beverly Grove shopping-dining district last fall with lush greenery, candlelit tables and views of the Hollywood hills. A salad of peas, burrata and mint is a refreshing way to commence before sharing a thin-crust charcuterie pizza or bottarga spaghetti; entrees are represented by whole roasted branzino and porchetta with fennel pollen and pistachio; finish with olive oil cake elevated with Grand Marnier.
8201 W. 3rd St., L.A., 213.588.0225, moraitaliano.com
/ Theía /
Greek cuisine is underrepresented in L.A., which made the arrival of lively indooroutdoor Theía even more welcome. Diners create feasts of meze such as traditional taramasalata and grilled octopus or less traditional 24-karat-gold-leaf-accented steak tartare and truffled potato croquettes. In addition to the expected moussaka, entrees include lamb burgers and tomahawk rib-eyes. Libations include Mediterranean wines and intriguing cocktails. Owner Max Simon pressed on with the project despite the first wave of pandemic closures and uncertainty and believes the lockdowns made his team more committed than ever to bring their concept to life.
8048 W. 3rd St., L.A., 323.591.0059, theia-la.com
/ Nueva /
Just over the border from Venice, this colorful spot from chefs Vartan Abgaryan (71Above, Yours Truly) and Mesraim Llanez was originally slated to open in spring 2020 but ultimately opened at the end of summer. “We were the first meal out for a lot of folks, and they were over the moon,” recalls partner Jared Meisler. “Everyone’s senses were heightened, and every bite and sip seemed meaningful and exciting. It was fun to be a part of that reawakening.” The vibe is contemporary and relaxed; the patio is colorful. Diners might select a ceviche or falafel taco, an entree of wood-grilled branzino with mole rojo and Castelvetrano tapenade, and a silky orange flan to finish. Mezcal cocktails from mixologist Adam Fournier (NoMad) are also a draw.
822 Washington Blvd., Marina del Rey, 310.747.6050, nuevavenice.com
/ Perle /
A French bistro spilling onto the sidewalk (as French bistros do!) in Old Pasadena was scheduled to open just when most places were closing. But after navigating the shutdowns, the restaurant and its classically inspired French cooking have earned a loyal following. Mentored by Michelin-three-star chefs Daniel Boulud and Gordon Ramsay, chef/ owner Dean Yasharian cooked more recently at Chateau Marmont on the Sunset Strip. A mirrored menu concept gives equal prominence to meat and seafood classics as to vegetarian dishes. You’ll find classic caviar service and equally elaborate seaweed caviar service, wild Burgundy escargot and mushroom “escargot.” Steak frites with béarnaise are a highlight; black-truffle pasta stars on both menus. A tarte Tatin further evokes memories of Paris.
43 E. Union St., Pasadena, 626.460.8819, perlerestaurant.com
Lobster fettunta at Ospi.
/ Ospi /
A culinary love letter to southern Italy, Ospi derives its name from the Italian word ospitante (“host”), and it’s as welcoming as a friend’s dinner party. Distinctive pizzas with cracker-thin tonda-style crusts are inspired by those found at Antico Forno Roscioli in Rome, a favorite of owners Jackson Kalb and Melissa Saka. An entire menu section is dedicated to fettunta, thick slices of olive oilbrushed toasted bread whose toppings range from simple garlic to chilled lobster with stracciatella. Pastas include black truffle gnocchetti Sardi. “We had two options: cease construction and return a fraction of funding to investors, or move forward and at the very least provide jobs,” Saka says of Ospi’s 2020 opening near the Venice boardwalk. “It was a no-brainer for both of us.”
2025 Pacific Ave., Venice, 424.443.5007, ospivenice.com
