Comment: Emmie Harrison-West
That's what he said Beer writer Emmie Harrison-West longs for the day when the mansplaining ends and the beer world finally becomes the inclusive utopia it should be… “'I'll have none of those girly drinks, thanks,' I hear at the bar, followed by a cloud of male laughter. Rolling my eyes, I knew they were referring to the pink, fruity beers on tap. Slightly carbonated, light and fruity with a lower ABV than your classic IPAs - paired with a twist of tartness at the end. Probably the epitome of what they expected a woman should be. I've heard it all before. Men guffawing at stemmed Teku glasses; exclaiming they want 'a proper glass' as if it was too effeminate and made for women's dainty fingers. I've heard men scoff at fruity beers or anything with a low percentage ABV, claiming men need 'proper' beer. It got me thinking: is there really such a thing as a ‘girly drink’? Well no, there's not - sorry. Except, plenty of men (and women, sadly) seem to think there is. There's this idea that women should drink something pink, and light. Fizzy and sweet, in a nice glass without a hefty calorie intake. Something delicate and pretty, like my sex. Men get the hard stuff. Beers with blue and silver packaging, emblazoned with a bear or wolf served in thick-set pint glasses. So, is there any wonder that women are afraid to drink beer? Worried that they'll come across masculine, and loutish, while brandishing a pint? Well, a survey sadly discovered that 27% of women who drink beer are put-off by ‘male-oriented’ advertising and 17% don’t publicly drink beer as they’re worried about being ‘judged’. It goes both ways, too. I've heard men laugh when one in their group orders a cocktail - with accusations that it's a ‘girly drink’, as if it was an insult to be feminine. Sadly, I've heard some homophobic slurs in this context, too. A friend, Amy, told me that on a first date, a man ordered wine for her - even after she asked for a beer. 'Women don't drink beer,' he replied. I'm pleased to say she downed her glass of red and walked out.
Sadly, even female brewers are being alienated in the industry. They’re few and far between, treated with ‘curiosity’ rather than with confidence, with more junior, male members of staff often promoted above them.
Joanne added: 'It’s a deep-rooted societal thing - as a woman you just aren’t expected to have that knowledge and people seem genuinely baffled. I’ve literally been asked: ‘how do you know what a DIPA is?’'
Emma O’Neill-Parsons, co-founder of Merakai Brewing Co. told me she has ‘constant eye roll moments’ as a female brewer. ‘I’ll have delivery people who would ask where the boss was or tell me something was heavy,’ she told me. Her husband Olly, who co-founded the brewery with her, never gets the same treatment.
So, who can blame women for not feeling welcomed in this predominantly male industry?
Men are always surprised at bars, breweries and beer festivals to see me - a woman, often in a nice dress and lipstick - drinking beer. And, who can forget that the UK’s first female sommeliers, Annabel Smith and Sophie Atherton, were only awarded the title in 2012? 'On Instagram, I’ve been told my opinion isn’t valid about beer because ‘I’m not a BJCP judge’ but you don’t see men being told that - I think women are held to a much higher standard and we feel pressured into collecting certifications and qualifications to ‘prove’ we know what we are drinking!' Joanne Love from Love Beer Learning told me. ‘Women just aren’t taken seriously,' she added. In my experience, men are always surprised at bars, breweries and beer festivals to see me - a woman, often in a nice dress and lipstick drinking beer. I’m reminded that the impy stout I'm drinking is 'quite strong, you know’. It's a feeling that's unfortunately all too common for Joanne, too. 'Generally if I come away from any beer festival or event without one sexist comment or being sexually harassed it’s a rare gem,' she told me.
We’ve had beers named after us, and after the act of sleeping with us, (namely the 'titillating, neurotic' Trashy Blonde's, Leg Spreaders, and Raging Bitches - though that one makes me laugh) and we often have beer explained to us, without being asked first. We've even had beers made for us (who can forget the Pink IPA?). Truthfully, things are getting better. Women are speaking out against toxic behaviour in the industry, with international attention; female brewing clubs and collabs are only increasing, and female brewers are getting televised to the nation. People are buying beer made by women - not for. But this industry needs to learn to ask questions, to women, queer people and POC who work in beer, about what will make everyone feel welcomed. About how we can work together to stop making deemed 'minorities' in brewing feel unwelcome. Because we're not aliens, we just like beer. At the end of the day, a beer is simply malt, hops, yeast, and water. It's up to its maker or consumer to add the dash of stigma at the end if they see fit. So, while I patiently wait for the viva la bev-olution I'll smile sweetly with my 10% stout and reply: 'I know.'” Emmie Harrison-West is a freelance journalist, as well as a fierce advocate for women’s rights, and good beer. You can find her beer reviews on Instagram @beerwomxn or follow her on Twitter @emmieehw.
www.siba.co.uk | SIBA Independent Brewer | Spring 2022
19