New York Fashion Week; where have you gone?

FOR BETTER OR WORSE

New York Fashion Week Rolls into the City

BY MARGOT ROBERTS

Politics, technology, culture, and of course, money, has had a detrimental effect on what was once the most important show the City of New York has ever hosted.

Prestigious, and very exclusive, New York Fashion Week (NYFW) was known for presenting the most coveted style events—under the tents at Bryant Park— for the benefit of the industry, the media who loyally supported the extravagant efforts of countless producers, designers, and sponsors, and a final presentation to an anticipating public who eagerly awaited for the smallest glimpse of what next season’s collection of high-fashion would include. Years ago, when the ‘show’ moved from Bryant Park to Lincoln Center, many with loud voices, proclaimed that it was not only the end of an era but of high-end fashion. These calls were amplified by the notion that creativity was doomed because organizers were selling out to advertisers who were abandoning the essence of what NYFW promised.

And, so they may have; but, the change of the venue brought well-needed benefits—much like a shot of adrenaline into a staggering and stale 20th-century pop-up dog and pony show. For the first time, the show went main-stream, with both designers and advertisers feasting on millions upon millions of dollars of free press and promotion that reached around the globe.

Informed and style-sensitive, the crowds flocked to the city. At no previous time was there a more knowledgeable following of fans. Traffic, people, protesters, and ‘street fashion’ filled the plaza and the surrounding area; the event drew hoards of celebrities and thousands of photographers and reporters. And, while it was shy of a spectacle, it was no less than spectacular. For a few years, NYFW produced what couldn’t possibly be duplicated, but in the end, organizers seemed so smitten with keeping profits high and meeting designers’ expectations low, rumblings could be heard if you listened carefully. Some wellrecognized names pulled out, as did a major sponsor; it seemed like the end, or at least major changes were approaching.

The commercial, bizarre-like atmosphere, open to outsiders through tickets sold by the likes of American Express, seemed to be the turning point of the show, probably due to it becoming unmanageable.

Adding insult to injury, the producer of the shows were seen by some to be intolerant of lesser-known designers who could never dream of affording the high entrance fee and so NYFW was seen as exclusionary and perhaps elitist to many wishing for a chance to rise in the ranks.

Then there was the hype over moving to Brooklyn—if it would ever get finished— but in the end, when it was ready, protest erupted regarding liberal versus conservative politics and the location’s ownership, and so the show never made it across the river.

Today, actually, February 5 or 6 (depending on who is writing the press release), another chapter of NYFW will be written. Still a busy week for the industry, it doesn’t possess the same enthusiasm as in previous years, with few outside of New York even discussing its coming.

Then there is an issue of political correctness; new on the horizon is the accepted fact that models can not be eliminated to walk the runways regardless of gender, size, attractiveness, even the lack of skill and ability—it is the times we live, but it is having an obtrusive effect on branding and relevance.

Combined with this history is advancements found in cell-phone cameras, online stores, and fulfillment houses; we are witness to upcoming designers and influencers who are redirecting their focus from external forces and looking to monetizing their experiences and talents.

New York Fashion Week may be around the corner, but the question is, “Who’s paying attention?” H