Wooden Cutlery CRAFT DOCUMENTATION REPORT Submitted in partial fulfillment of the Craft Design Project of Fashion and Lifestyle Accessories Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology, Hyderabad.
Faculty guide: Ms. Lakshmi Reddy (Professor)
Sponsored by
CERTIFICATE
This is to certify that the following students of Fashion and Lifestyle Accessories Department at National Institute of Fashion Technology – Hyderabad of batch 2009-2013, semester – V, have carried out their craft design project title Wooden Cutlery on 18-10-2011 at Udayagiri ,Andhra Pradesh, India as part of their course curriculum and have fulfilled the requirements set by the institute and the evaluation jury. Their work has been found satisfactory.
Ms.Laxmi Reddy Professor (Faculty Guide)
Mr.G.M.Reddy CIC, NIFT, Hyd
Mr. Avinash Raipally Asst. Professor (Centre Coordinator)
Mr. E. Venkat Reddy(IFS) (Registrar)
Dr. K.S.Pratap Kumar(IPS) (Director)
Š
Copyright 2011 National Institute of Fashion Technology. All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording and scanning or other wise in any form without the written permission of the copyright owners. Adarsh Kumar Alam Bhavani Karnika Tewari Rachita Saxena Nazia Neloufer Soham Rakshit Sunil Oraon Sweety Rani Tanushree Kerai Printed at Hyderabad, India.
Acknowledgement We would like to extend our heartfelt gratitude to LEPAKSHI who sponsored the Craft Based Design Project. The success of craft development initiative would have been impossible without them. We would thank our craft documentation mentor, Ms. Lakshmi Reddy and our guidance faculty Mr Chandrashekhar Raju for all the possible help and assistance that they have given us during the course of our stay at Udayagiri as well as while documenting this wooden cutlery craft. We are grateful to the artisans and craftsmen of Udayagiri for patiently answering our queries and giving us all the information that we required, enabling us to understand this unique craft. We dedicate this document to the craftsmen of Udayagiri and we hope that they gain the appreciation and recognition that they deserve.
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Preface This Documentation has been prepared for the Subject, “Craft Based Documentation� of Fashion and Lifestyle Accessory Design Department (Sem.V) in the academic year 2009-2013. The blend of learning and knowledge acquired during our practical studies at Udayagiri is presented in this document. The purpose behind visiting Udayagiri was to study the wooden cutlery and understand the Cultural and Traditional aspects of the place.
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Contents Sl.no 1.
Topic Introduction
(i) Andhra Pradesh -Geography -Demographics -Religion -Culture -Economy (ii) Nellore -Geography -Demography -History of Nellore -NGO(Chaitanya Jyoti Welfare Society) (iii) Udayagiri -History -Lifestyle -Culture -Population -Occupation -Mythology -Forest Poducts -Transportation (iv) Dilawar Bhavi Street -Total Population -Lifestyle -Religion
Pg.no 01-02
03-08
09-13
14-16
Sl.no
Topic
Pg.no
-Culture -Food Habits -Caste Division and Language -Amusement -Education 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
History Of Craft Essence of Craft Trainers and Training Group Raw Materials Tools (i)Machine Tools (ii)Hand Tools Tools Range Process Price Range of Products Product Range Artisans Achievement Marketing and Supply Chain SWOT Analysis Design Development Our Experience Glossary Bibliography
17 18 19 20-21 22-27
28 29-31 32 33-34 37-38 39 40 41-51 52 53-55 56
Andhra Pradesh Andhra Pradesh (AP), the “rice bowl of
India”, is a state in southern India.
MAP : Andhra Pradesh
Dazzling beauty of Hyderabad: CHARMINAR www.hyderabadatoz.com
GEOGRAPHY: Andhra Pradesh lies between 12°41' and 22°N latitude and 77° and 84°40'E longitude. It is bordered by Maharashtra, Chhattisgarh, Orissa in the north, the Bay of Bengal in the East, Tamil Nadu to the south and Karnataka to the west. Geographically, Andhra Pradesh is composed of most of the eastern half of the Deccan plateau and the plains to the east of the Eastern Ghats. The northern part of the plateau is the Telangana region and the southern part is known as Rayalaseema. These two regions are separated by the River Krishna. Andhra Pradesh is the fourth largest state in India by area and population and it is the largest state in southern India. Two major rivers, the Godavari and Krishna run across the state. Historically this land was known as Andhraa patha, Andhra desa, and Andhra vani. Hyderabad is the capital and, along with their joining twin city secunderabad, is the largest city in the state. Other important cities and towns are Kakinada, Guntur, Warangal, Tirupati, Ra-jahmundry, Nellore, Anantapur, Eluru. 1
DEMOGRAPHICS: Telugu is the official language of the state, spoken by 83% of the population. The major linguistic minorities group in the state includes the speakers of Urdu (8.63%) and Hindi (3.23%) and tamil (1.01%). The main ethnic group of Andhra Pradesh is the ethnic people. The main ethnic group of Andhra Pradesh is the Telugu people, who are primarily Dravidians.
UNITY IN DIVERSITY RELIGION: The state is home to Hindu saints. Andhra Pradesh has 89.01% of Hinduism, 9.16% of Islam, 1.7% of Christianity, 0.05% of Jainism, 0.04% of Sikhism and 0.17% of other religions. Though, maximum population follows Hinduism, equal importance is given to all religions. CULTURE: Andhra Pradesh has many museums, including archeological museum at Amravati near Guntur city that features relics of nearby Asian sites, the Salarjung museum in Hyderabad, which features a very varied collection of sculptures, painting and religious artifacts and the Visakha museum in Vishakhapatnam, which displays the history of pre-independence Madras presidency in a rehabilitated Dutch bungalow.
FARMERS AT NELLORE
ECONOMY: Agriculture has been the chief source of income for this state’s economy. Rice, sugarcane, cotton, mirchi (chilly pepper), mango and tobacco are the local crops. There are many multi state irrigation projects development. The state has also started to focus on the fields of information technology and bio technology. 2
Nellore GEOGRAPHY: It is the fourth largest city in Andhra Pradesh. Nellore is well known for its production of mica (gudur), lemon (gudur) and agricultural products such as rice and it is famous for temples like Sri Erukalala Parameswari Devi Temple known as Simhapuri(Nellore) Gramadevatha, Narasimha Swamy Konda, Jonnavada Kamakshi Ammavari temple, Ayyappa Temple, Golagamudi Venkaya Swami Temple, Rajarajeswari Temple, PenchalaKona. Nellore is also known for agriculture. It is one of the fastest developing cities in Andhra Pradesh. DEMOGRAPHICS: Population in the year 2009 was approximately 8 lakhs. Nellore has an average literacy rate of 76% for males and 68% for females and 11% of the population is under 6 years of age. Tikkana Somayaji the 2nd of the Kavitrayam wrote
MAP OF NELLORE DISTRICT 3
History of Nellore Nellore was known by the name of “Vikrama Simhapuri” till
13th century.
The city derives its name from the Tamil word, “Nell” which means Paddy, as paddy cultivation is the predominant occupation in this region. Before the district was taken over the British it was ruled by the Nawabs. Until 1 October 1953, the district was part of the Madras (now Chennai) state but on 1 November 1956 when the states were recognized on the basis of linguistic differences, the state of Andhra Pradesh came into existence. During that time Nellore played an important role in the formation of the state. CULTURE: As a large percent of population is rural and dependent on agriculture, their way of life is more traditional in nature. Though the people here are progressive in thought, they prefer traditional way of life. The common dressing habits are Pants and Shirts for men and Saree for women. Telugu is the most common language that is spoken in Nellore district. Besides Telugu the other prominent languages that are spoken in the region are Urdu and Tamil. As far as art and literature is concerned, Nellore has produced many great poets and literary personalities of fame. ECONOMY: The factors which have aided the economy of Nellore to flourish are proximity to the sea and fertile land towards the eastern part of the district. The predominant occupation of the people of Nellore is agriculture and the crops which are most commonly grown in the district are Paddy, Jowar, Bajra along with Tobacco, Chillies, Groundnut and Sugarcane. 4
NOTEABLE PLACES AND THEIR IMPORTANCE
TALPAGIRI TEMPLE
DARGAH
BARA SHAHEED DARGAH SHAREEF: Muharram is celebrated in a grand manner and it is very famous in nellore because of Bara Shaheed Dargah Shareef. the annual event is being observed on the sidelines of Moharram in the memory of 12 martyrs, who laid down their lives in the sacred war for communal harmony. TALPAGIRI RANGANADHASWAMY TEMPLE: Sri Talapagiri Ranaganatha Swamy Temple is located in Nellore city and is about 5 km away from Nellore-1 APSRTC Bus stand and 1 km away from Nellore railway station. Ranganada Swamy Temple in Nellore is more than 6000 years old. The annual Rath Yathra of the God is a much awaited ritual in Nellore. 5
SRI GAYATHRI DEVI VISHWAKARMA TEMPLE: The Vedamata Gayathri Devi, and Veda Pitha Sri, Virat Vishwakarma Temple is located at Virat nagar, in main road of Nellore.This temple is considered to be one among the biggest Gayathri devi temples of Andhra pradesh.The temple is attracting huge number of devotees and is said by devotees that, five times circumvenation of the temple sanctorium fulfills their wishes. JONNAWADA MALLIKARJUNA SWAMY KAMAKSHI TAI TEMPLE:
It is located about 12 km from Nellore. It has good connections with the Railway station at Nellore. A famous Sri Mallikarjuna Swamy Kamakhsi temple is located on the bank of river Pennar, 12 km from Nellore. It attracts many pilgrims. The village is part of Buchireddipalem Mandal. In Tretayuga Mahamuni Kasyapa Brahma performed Yagna and pleased Lord Mallikarjuna Swamy thus this place is named as ‘Yagnavatika Jonnawada’. 6
Chaitanya Jyoti Welfare Society
Chaitanya Jyoti Welfare Society ( CJWS) is a voluntary organization working for the poor and
depressed community in the society. It focuses on rural poor people, urban migrated people and coastal fisher folk community of Nellore district. CJWS was started in the year 1990. This society was started with certain objective in the year 1990 and registered under Societies Registration Act, 1860 having its registration number 48/90. CJWS has involved in activities related to the ‘ right to development’ for the marginalized section of the society. CJWS has actively involved in women empowerment programs. As a voluntary organization,CJWS approached the “ office of the development commissioner (handicrafts), government of India, Ministry of textiles through the Assistant director, Handicrafts Marketing and Service Extension Centre, Thirupati” for sanction of giant- in- aid to conduct the training programmes and workshops for the design and skill development of leather puppet artisians of DC Palli, the women artisians of wooden cutlery Craft at Udayagiri, palm leaf at Venkateshwara Nagar and Mattempadu and Fabric Painting craft at Tummuru in Naidupet Mandal, Nellore District. 7
Mission of CJWS well coincides with AHVY Schemes of DCH: • Mobilization of craft persons and their families. • Formation of SHGs and introducing Thrift and credit activities among the craft persons. • Implementing the technologies interventions needed. • Providing institutional back-up support. • To develop market networking system. • Implementing of welfare schemes including social security-insurance and health package, housing package, housing cum-work shed and work sheds. • Amalgamation of ASGHs into Mutually Aided Co-operative Societies (MACS). • Finally to ensure the craft as professionally managed, democratically and self sustainable.
WITH CHAITANYA JYOTI WELFARE SOCIETY DIRECTOR, MR. SRINIVAS, HIS WIFE MRS. VIJAYLAKSHMI 8
Udayagiri
If we go back in the history of Udayagiri name comes as "Udaya" means Morning, "Giri"
means Hill, every day morning first Sun rays touches this hill. A towering peak reaching a height of 994m (3,261 ft) this is called as Sanjiva Hill because it has unlimited herbals which we can use in medicines. Sanjeevani means life saving. Local stories have mentions of the existence of "Sanjeevani" (a life saving herb) on these hills. The remains of several ancient temples, remarkable for their architecture are also seen. Udayagiri goes back in history to the Pallava times, later ruled by the Royal Vijayanagara Empire under Srikrishna Devaraya. The era saw the spread of the architecture similar to Hampi which is seen in the remains of the few temples of those times around the area. After the fall of Vijayanagara Empire, Udayagiri was ruled by Gajapathis of Kalinga for a brief period till the Quli Qutub Shah Dynasty of Deccan took over and ruled for 200 years until 1802. Well , the british rule came in which saw Abbas Ali Khan, the nawab of Udayagiri fight a heroic battle which lasted for three months. After the fall of Vijayanagara Empire, it was ruled by Chieftains of Golconda rulers. The mosque on top of the hill has two Persian inscriptions that credits the construction of mosque and planting a nearby garden to Shaik Husain, Chieftain to Sultan Abdullah of Golconda. Then it came under the rule of Nawabs of Arcot, who granted it to Mustafa Ali Khan as Jagir. 9
NATURAL BEAUTY OF UDAYAGIRI
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History of Udayagiri This beautiful village Udayagiri is located in Nellore, Andhra Pradesh. It is
km from Nellore City, Andhra Pradesh, 112 km from Cuddapah City. Udayagiri, a mandal headquarter is a small busy town in Nellore district, 100 kms from Nellore, Andhra Pradesh. Presently a trading town for the agriculture based villages around. Wooden cutlery handcraft of Udayagiri was known for his intricate carvings and find proportion practiced by a few master crafts persons of the region. This craft probably originated during the Quli Qutub Shah Dynasty which was passed down through generations over time. 96
Today there are 5 groups in Udayagiri, trained under the guidance of senior craftpersons Abdul Basheer, Sk. Mehaboob Jani and MD Hussain(late). Over the last five years more than 50 women have been trained in making wooden cutlery in the traditional design form. The product they have been making are Spoons and Forks, Paper Cutter, and Hairclips. They are carved with Persian motifs and forms, mostly sold for gifting and table decoration items. Nardi is soft and easy to hand carve, is procured from the nearby forests. Their tools are very basic in nature such as Narrow Files, Curved Scooper, Chisel and Saw. The senior craftsman who still maintain this craft as livelihood, sell their ware in exhibition and fairs or to various Emporia in the cities.
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LIFESTYLE: People of Udayagiri, Nellore district are simple and polite. Most of the houses consist of large verandah, housing kitchen and roofless bathroom. They prefer lively and vibrant colors. The society consists of lower middle class people. They prefer walking, over vehicle regardless of the distance. They are very traditional when it comes to dressing (ie., women put flowers in hair, wear bangles, anklets, etc)
CULTURE: People celebrate festivals like Ramadhan, Bakrid, Christmas, Milad-un-Nabi, Sankranti, Dasara and Diwali. They also celebrate the Shakti Jataras of local deities. They even celebrate Sri Krishna Devaraya’s birthday which is marked as a huge feast in the town. POPULATION: The population of this town is approximately 25,000 ,consisting 60% of muslim and 40% of Hindu and Christian. 12
OCCUPATION: Main occupation of Udayagiri is Prawn Farming, Wooden Work, Iron Forging, Carpentry, Making Tools and Retail Stores. Wooden cutlery is made by ladies in Dilawer Bhavi street, Udayagiri. MYTHOLOGY: Sanjeevini (Life medicine) referred in Hindu puranas, is said to be in these hills. There is a saying that , no one died in these hills by accident or snake bites or any attack by the wild animals. FOREST PRODUCTS: Pure honey, Dried fruits like "SARA PAPPU" are the famous products available in this forest. Locals (Durgam Palli vilagers) sell the products in the Udayagiri town. RED SANDAL, trees are grown here. TRANSPORTATION: Bus is the only means of transportation to udayagiri. It is 96 km from Nellore. Nearest railway station is located at Kavali, 75 kms east of Udayagiri. It is 410 km from our state capital,Andhra Pradesh, Hyderabad. To reach Udayagiri, we have to take bus or train till Nellore,as mentioned there is no railway station in Udayagiri, we take bus to reach the place. 13
Dilawar Bhavi Street
Dilawar was the name of an old and famous personality living in this street.The word Bhavi means “well� in Telugu. There is a well in this street which is a source of water supply in every house. Thus the name evolved. TOTAL POPULATION: The total population living in Dilawar Bhavi street is approximately 400 including 80 families.
LIFESTYLE: There way of living is very simple and conservative. Women wear traditional south Indian outfits like Pattu Lhanga, Lhanga Odhni, Saree, Shalwar Kameez whereas men wear Lungi, Shirts, Trousers, T-Shirts, Jeans. . Most of the houses consist of large verandah, housing kitchen and roofless bathroom. RELIGION: Families living in Dilawar bhavi street follow Islam. CULTURE: People celebrate festivals like Id-Ul-Zuha, Muharram, Eid-Ul-Fitr. 14
FOOD HABITS: They prefer eating hot and fresh food. Their breakfast is mainy Cheela ( plain dosa ), Idly, Puri, Roti (Chappati), Bonda and sometimes. CASTE, DIVISION LANGUAGE: People in this street follow Islam, their mother tongue is Urdu but they also speak Telugu. The people living in Dilawar Street are related to each other.
AMUSEMENT: There is a play ground in Dilawar Bhavi mainstreet for kids to play sports. The most played sport is Volleyball and Cricket. Little kids in that street have running races. EDUCATION: As far as we observed, kids in this street were dedicated towards their studies. They attend tuitions both morning and evening excluding school, reason the scholarship provided to them by the government. 15
WORKING POPULATION: Out of 80 families, women from 50 families work on wooden cutlery. Wooden cutlery is basically crafted by women now. Only one male artisan, Abdul Basheer, the master craftsman work on the craft. ARTISANS’S LIFESTYLE: The artisan’s who work on wooden cutlery wakeup in the morning at 5:00 am. They clean their home, send kids to school, and store water in the “House”( small utility well which is fixed to the ground). Electricity is the main problem in that particular area. It lasts hardly for 14 hours per day. Water supply is available only if there is electricity. Finally, after completing all the household work they start the wooden work and continue it till their kids and husband return home. SUPERNATURAL BELIEF: They have a lot of supernatural believes. They believe that there is a psycho man who slits the neck of beautiful girls in town but this myth has no proof or evidence as such. Women in Udayagiri are not allowed to leave their hair open after 6:30 pm, as they believe that the supernatural evil would attack and petrify them.
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History of Craft Wooden cutlery handicraft of Udayagiri, Nel-
lore, is known for its intricate and fine hand carving. This craft probably is originated during the Quli Qutub Shah Dynasty which was passed down through generations over time. This craft originated approximately 120 years ago but it came into limelight around 11 years back. Nobody knew about this craft until government gave a thought of upbringing it through training and other activities. Earlier it was practiced by both men and women but slowly and gradually it was taken over by the women. According to the information gathered from the present artisans in Udayagiri, Nellore – there was a person called Mr.Khaja Mamu who taught these skills to the present master craftsmen Mr. Basheer and Mrs. Mehboob Jaani. Ms. Mehboob Jaani’s father, Mr. Fareed khan also taught this craft to people interested including Ms. Mehboob Jaani and her sister, Mrs. Khatun Bi. Late MD. Hussain was another famous craftsman who was the husband of Ms. Khatun Bi. He used to market his craft in various cities in India. 17
Essence Of Craft The Essence of craft lies in its intricacy and geometric patterns. They craft the regular utility
product with beautiful forms and designs and take it to a greater level of appreciation. These products has few known designs which are named in their own language as AMINI, KANGURE, KHAJURI and DARGAH KI JAALI. These are the few patterns existing from last few years. These patterns are the identity of the craft.
FEW OF THE EXCLUSIVE CUTLERY PIECES
TRAINERS: With the help of NGO’s, these craftsman receive training for 6 months in every 3 years and the trainer provides them with new designs and techniques. The first training was given to them by Mr. Ravi Shankar who is a designer in Bangalore. The second training was given to them by Mr. Ravi Shankar and Mr. Mohan who are designers from Bangalore. The third training was given to them by Mr. Shyam who is again a designer from Bangalore. TRAINING GROUPS: The women of Udaygiri are trained for 6 months in every three years. The designers come from different places to teach them. On the basis of the work given, groups are formed. If any member of the group doesn’t work then the whole group has to pay for the loss and thus every member keeps motivating the other. They also have financial advantage by forming the group. Each group gets loan from the bank and they repay it together. This helps in decreasing the stress on individual member. The craftsmen are divided into 9 groups: • First group: Sayida group ( 15 people). In which 12 are Muslims, 3 are Hindus. This group is formed by the master craftsman Abdul Basheer. • Second group: Sujaina group ( 10 people). This group was formed by Sameewoon and her mother Khatun Bi • Third group: Bhawna group ( 10 people). • F ourth group: Arif group (10 people). • Fifth group: Asif group (10 people). • Sixth group: Yasmin group (10 people). • Seventh group: Irfan group (10 people). • Eighth group: Nisaar group (10 people). • Ninth group: Ruksar group (10 people).
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Raw Material The raw material is collected from the hills name as Durgampalli. The woodcutter gets the
wooden pieces from Durgampalli hill and sells it to the artisan. They basically use wood for making wooden cutlery. The wood used by them for designing cutleries are Nardi, Kalai, Devdari wood. Among all the wood the most commonly used by the craftsmen is Nardi wood because it is very soft and easy to handle.
COST OF THE MATERIAL: The cost of raw material is Rs 200/- for 3 bundles of approximately 3 feet each. There terminology for ‘Foot/Feet’ is ‘Kadam’. 20
Raw material(‘nardi wood’ from durgampalli hills)
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Tools They use 2 types of tools – (a) MACHINE TOOLS (b) HAND TOOLS
MACHINE TOOLS:
Previously the craftsmen just used hand tools for every detail in the craft. But as technology evolved, government provided them with machine tools such as Drilling machine, Lathe machine, Jigsaw machine, Grinding machine, Sanding machine, Circular saw machine and Surface plannar. With the help of these machine tools their time and work reduces. These machine tools are only used to cut and shape of the product.
SANDING MACHINE
JIGSAW MACHINE 22
SURFACE PLANNAR MACHINE
GRINDING MACHINE
LATHE MACHINE 23
DRILLING MACHINE
CIRCULAR SAW
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Hand Tools The hand tools used by craftsmen are manufactured in Udayagiri. The name of the tools are Vanky (curved scooper), Churi Ka Samaan (narrow files, it has 3 types), Uli (chisel), Bosala (axe), Rethi Ka Samaan (flat file), Gol Kadi (round filers, it has 3 types). They change the tool after every 20 products. Below are the various hand tools :
:
CHURI KA SAMAN It is their terminology for the flat file. 25
:
VANKY It is used to attain concave and convex shapes.
:
BOSALA It is used for cutting wooden pieces.
:
RETI KA SAMAN It is other name of filer which they use in filing the products. 26
:
NAIL It is used as a support while carving the products.
:
ULI It is used to sharpen the wooden pieces.
:
GOLKADI It is the other name of the round filer which they use for carving designs on the product. 27
Tools Range
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Craft Procedure •
Buy raw material, 3 bundles of approx. 3 foot. (price-Rs 200/-)
•
Cut the raw wooden pieces.
•
For large spoons, they divide the log into two different parts.
•
Chisel the cut pieces in the form of the required spoon.
•
Sand it using sanding machine and make it smooth.
•
Grooving is done using a particular tool.
•
Drill holes according to the required design, on the cut pieces.
•
After the drilling, carve the particular design according to the size of cut pieces.
•
Filing and finishing.
•
Final product.
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STEP 1: Cutting nardi wood-
STEP 2: Segregating the equal
STEP 3: Dividing the required
STEP 4: Remove the excess
STEP 5: Carve out the log
STEP 6: Attain basic shape of
logs into equal parts.
material with the help of Bosala.
pieces to start the further process.
giving a basic shape of a desired product.
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log into half.
a spoon with Bosala.
STEP 7: Chisel out excess
STEP 8: Drilling of chiseled
wood of the spoon with Venky.
out pieces
STEP10: Pieces ready to get
STEP 11: Design carving
designs
and filing.
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STEP 9: Sanding
Final product.
Price Range
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Product Range T
he product range vary according to the size and style of the product. The size of the cutlery varies from 4� to 15�. Few variations of wooden cutlery are shown below.
Variation in Forks (Kaata)
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Variation in Spoon (Chamcha)
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RECENT INNOVATION AND ADAPTATION This beautiful art existed for more than a
century and due to reasons like modernization in design, the art is losing its originality. Artisans have started working on modern designs, reason being, training given to them by designer Mr. Shyam from Bangalore. The designer’s intention was to train them with various techniques, but as the simple design seems to be easy and quick, the artisans have adapted it.
COMMERCIALIZATION AND MARKET: Artisans are not aware of the marketing
MODERN DESIGN: functional and ergonomic
techniques. NGO’s provide them information about exhibition and give them an opportunity to visit places and commercialize their craft. They sell their products to Lepakshi and market their products in art and crafts exhibition in different parts of India.
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SUPPORT FROM GOVT. AND NGO(CJWS) NGO (Chaintanya Jyoti Welfare Association) provides (a) Mobilization of craftsmen and their families. (b) Formation of SHGs ( Self Help Group) and introducing Thrift and Credit activities among the craft person. (c) Implementing the technologies interventions needed. (d) Providing institutional back-up support. (e) To develop market networking system. (f) Implementing of welfare schemes including Social Security Insurance and Health packages, House Package, Housing cum Work Shed. (g) Amalgamation of ASGHs into Mutually Aided Co-operative Societies (MACS). (h) Finally to ensure the craft as Professionally Managed, Democratically and Self Sustainable.
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Artisan’s Achievements The Master Craftsman. Mr Abdul Basheer received certificate of participation in •1999 from craft bazaar’99, Panjim, Goa, India. •2001 from All India Art and Crafts Mela held at Hastakalaramam, Tirupati, Andhra Pradesh, India. •2001 from Shilparamam, Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh, India. •2002 from all India Arts and Crafts Mela held at Hastakalaramam, Tirupati, Andhra Pradesh. Mr Abdul Basheer was awarded with the state award Certificate by Andhra Development corporation Ltd. Lepakshi, for his craftsmanship and contribution to the development of wooden cutlery.
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Marketing and Supply Chain The craft of Udaygiri doesn’t have any proper and directed marketing technique. It’s run by
individual families who sell their products in exhibitions across the country. Some sell to emporiums and handicraft shops as per their yearly demand. Emporium “Lepakshi” buys 40,000 cutlery pieces each year which showcase and sells the product in various city outlets. The net profit is approximately Rs.7000/- INR as told by master craftsman Mr. Basheer. Most of the gained money is used in travelling and stay by the craftsmen for exhibitions. Supply chain is simple which starts from the woodcutter selling the wood to craftsman who works on it and sells the cutlery in Art and Crafts exhibition. The NGO(CJWS) plays a role in providing information about the exhibitions happening in and around India.
RAW MATERIALS(from woodcutter) CRAFTSMEN EXHIBITIONS/LEPAKSHI CUSTOMER 39
SWOT Analysis STRENGTH: • • • • • • •
Intricate design. This craft is supported by the government of India and NGOs. Eco friendly. Cutlery products are smooth, strong and durable Bio-degradable. Kitchen accessories made out of nardi wood, helps in controlling blood sugar, and blood pressure. It is also used for decoration purpose.
WEAKNESS: • • •
Lack of awareness about marketing of the product. The intecracy of art is dying due to modernization in design. It has utility but few products are ergonomically incorrect and because of the intricate carving the food particles may get stuck on the spoons and forks.
OPPORTUNITY: • •
Export House. Retail Stores.
THREATS: •
The craft is dying due to lack of awareness of the customers.
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Design Development Under our craft based design project initiated by NIFT,we amalgated the essence of the craft with our design interventions. We endeavored to give the craft of Udaygiri a new face without losing its original character. Functionality and feasibility was kept in mind while developing each of the design. In the process, we had certain limitations..
• Raw materials were only available in Udaygiri at Durgampalli hills. • Wood sizes being 24” long, transportation was not easy, and hence raw materials were in limited quantity. • The craft development project was to be completed within 10 days. • Wood/log sizes were 24”*4”, which restricted us to make products with only specific dimensions. • Nardi wood being light in weight, compromises on the strength.
Our work on this craft is explained further in detail.
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WORKFLOW CHART MOTIFS
FORMS
PRODUCT DESIGN PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
•Identifying the motifs part by part. •Sketching. •Exploring forms. •Forms possible with overlaps and geometrical shapes. •Transfering motifs in the form. •Product design as per raw material specifications. •Mock up for understanding form and product feasibility. •Technical drawings. •Raw material selection and specifications to craftsmen.
DESIGN AND CRAFTSMAN
•Tracing the design on raw materials. •Design cut and finished by craftsmen.
JOINING AND FINISHING
•Pieces joined with additional materials to complete the product.
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Adarsh Kumar Looking at the artwork of Udayagiri, play of light was what came to my mind. I took inspiration from star form and made a night lamp. I developed the form geometrically with several overlaps. Finally a light placed inside brought the craft to life.
FLOOR LAMP
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Alam Bhavani The craft of Udayagiri symbolizes richness and intricacy. I designed a lamp using several motifs to give that rich look. I looked into each motif and composed it with each other to form new designs. Then the designs follow a rhythm on two sides of lamp.
HANGING LAMP
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Karnika Tewari My product is a photoframe. The motifs around the product have been taken from the Jali work.Simplified to a repeated pattern on 2 sides. Rest is a repeat of the same pattern on the corner with two small motifs in the centre.
PHOTO FRAME
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Rachita Saxena My product is a photoframe, and my design is really very simple , inspired from the floral patterns made by the Udayagiri craftsman. Which has been simplified and modified by me.
PHOTO FRAME
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Nazia Neloufer My product is a wall clock inspired from the sun. As sun was the first medium to check time, i selected its form. I made use of the limitations of wood and came up with this wall clock. I used the Udayagiri craft to form sunrays. The motif design was inspired from the floral geometric pattern from the existing wooden cutlery.
WALL CLOCK
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Soham Rakshit The challenge was to keep the motif design intact within our new product. So, I designed a photoframe bordered with “dargah ki jail�, one of the key design motif in Udayagiri cutlery. The beauty of the intricate jaliwork had striked me to the extent that I kept it all around my frame.
PHOTO FRAME
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Sunil Oraon Light has always been an important aspect in interior design. The lamp designed by me tries to infuse both tradition and contemporary styles. The repeated motifs remind us of the fine craftsmanship while the shape is kept simple and basic.
DECORATIVE LAMP
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Sweety Rani I have designed a photo frame keeping in mind the important motif designs of the craft. I took “amini” and “double amini” and composed it in the given dimensions of the frame. I slightly magnified the motifs to create a neat and simple design.
PHOTO FRAME
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Tanushree Kerai My product is a stationary holder which is inspired from hexagon shape. My design pattern rebels the dying craft of Udayagiri. Simple and repeated pattern “aamini� is used on all six sides with partition in between, so that maximum number of stationary it can be held.
STATIONARY HOLDER
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Our Experience Few experiences in our life leave an impression. And undoubtedly our five day stay in Udayagiri has left a lasting impression not only on our minds in the form of lifestyle and experience but also changed our outlook towards design and the various forms it can take ,no matter how small and humble the place is. Through the course of our craft cluster stay at Udayagiri, our experience with the artisans and their families is something we will always cherish. We not only got the opportunity to see how they work but also the unique experience of staying with them and being a part of their lifestyle. The design development phase was another special phase where we dealt with tight deadlines and worked alongwith the craftsmen. The ten days of design development was full of learning which gave us an oppurtunity of gaining hands-on experience with the craftsmen. This was one invaluable experience in the entire process.
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D
Glossary
• Dargah: the tomb of a Muslim saint; a Muslim shrine. • Depressed: undergoing economic hardship, especially poverty and unemployment. • Democratically: pertaining to or characterized by the principle of political or social equality for all. • Descendant-: a person who is descended from a specific ancestor. • Deities: a god or goddess. • Durable: Able to withstand wear, pressure, or damage. • Drilling machine: A drilling rig is a machine which creates holes.
A
• Archaeological museum: Museum for an cient history and antiquity. • Authentic: Not false or copied; genuine; real. • Amalgamation: To mix or merge so as to make a combination; blend; unite. • Achievements: A thing done successfully, typically by effort, courage, or skill.
B
• Biodegradable: Capable of being decom posed by bacteria or other living organisms.
E
• Ethnic group: referring to the origin, classifi cation, characteristics, etc., of such groups. • Empowerment: to give power or author ity to; authorize, especially by legal or offi -cialmeaning. • Emporium: a large retail store, especially one selling a great variety of articles. • Exhibition: :A display or demonstration of a particular skill. • Export house: intermediary organization between an exporter and a buyer. • Ergonomic: Intended to provide optimum comfort and to avoid stress or injury. • Ecofriendly: Environmentally friendly, nature friendly.
C
• Conservative: Traditional in style or manner; avoiding novelty or showiness. • Cutlery: Utensils, as knives, forks an spoons, used at the table for serving food. • Chieftain: a leader of a group, band, etc. • Collaborate: to work, one with another; co operate. • Circular saw: A power saw with a rapidly rotating toothed disk. • Commercialize: Exploit or spoil for the pur pose of gaining profit.
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G
L
H
M
• Grinding machine: A grinding machine is a machine tool used for grinding, which is a type of machining using an abrasive wheel as the cutting tool. • Hand carving: A process for removing wood by means of a knife, a gouge, a chisel, or a veiner • Hand tools: A tool held in the hand and operated without electricity or other power.
I
• Irrigation: the artificial application of water to land to assist in the production of crops. • Intricate: having many interrelated parts or facets; entangled or involved, hard to work or understand. • Intervention: (design intervention) to occur or be between two things. • Innovation: A new method, idea • Interventions: Interference by a country in another’s affairs. • Intricate: Very complicated or detailed. J • Jigsaw machine: A light portable electric saw with a vertically reciprocating blade that is used especially for cutting curves.
K
• Kadam: One foot in local language
• Linguistic minority: The smaller part or number of people belonging to a particular speaking language. • Lathe machine: A machine for shaping a piece of material, such as wood or metal, by rotating it rapidly • Moharram: The first month of the Muslim calendar. •Marginalized: To place in a position of mar ginal importance, influence, or power • Mobilization: To increase or bring to a full stage of development • Mythology: A body of myths, as that of a particular people or that relating to a par ticular person • Machine tools: A nonportable power tool, such as a lathe, used for cutting or shaping metal,wood, etc.
N
• Nardi, Kalai, Devdari: Type of wood for mak ing wooden cutlery. • NGO: non-governmental organization.
P
•Petrify : To benumb or paralyze with aston ishment, horror, or other strong emotion. •Predominant: Having ascendancy, power, au thority, or influence over others; preeminent. •Pilgrim: A person who journeys, especially a long distance, to some sacred place as an act of religious devotion. 54
R
•Relics: A surviving memorial of something past. •Rehabilitated: To restore to a condition of good health, ability to work, or the like. •Revival: Restoration to life, consciousness, vigor, strength, etc. •Retail stores: A brokerage firm that caters to individual customers rather than large institutions.
S
•Self-sustainable: Able to be maintained or kept going, as an action or process on its own. •Sandal: (wood) the fragrant heartwood of any of certain Asian trees of the genus Santa lum, used for ornamental carving and burned as incense. •Segregation: To separate or set apart from others or from the main body or group; isolate. •Surface planner: The cutting tool of a thick ness planer is a series of knives on a revolving shaft. •Sanding machine: A machine having a powered abrasive-covered disk or belt, used for smoothing or polishing surfaces. U •Urdu : a language derived from Hindustani, used by Muslims, and written with PersianArabic letters. 55
V • Voluntary: Done, made, brought about, un dertaken, etc., of one’s own accord or by free choice. • Value of craft: Appreciation of craft.
Bibliography Information collected from the craftmen in udayagiri Photographs clicked on the spot www.hyderabadotz.com www.dictionary.refernce.com
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Our Trip