The Hype Magazine by SolentFashionMedia

issue 2

inside corruption and massacre: life in syria on scene with forensic science james morrison

staff

e2 2 ci e nc

ia ed m al

sub-editors Summer Grant, Cathy Greig, Chloe Ellis

x To

week

bei

ca n

jing

w ith o

u /s

ng mm

er 53

an rw

k ru

7 g5

ban

k eu p 6

en's

ex al

wom

eye ma

burlesque 64

Raci

bea

ptcy

sm w i t h i n th e try 6 8

Produced by: BA (Hons) Magazine Journalism @ Solent University

uty in d us

Cover image: Courtesy Chris Arran

s mo

on rris

chris Arran 40

contributors

Rachel Lamb

2 me

an de 36 Emeli S

Stephanie Ghatta, Summer Grant, Kelly Woolford, Rob Hewitt, Nicole Cook, Angus Marriott, Micaela Carroll, Hayley Fewster

editor-in-chief

h ic S

d yn S k

e Jam

designers

Sam Elliot, Hannah Lawrence, Charlotte Babington, Sarah Abrahams, Tom Whitehead, Kirsty Bright, Catherine Collins, Kirsty Fensome, Roseanne Field, Lauren Sutton, Helen Archard, Harriet Wheeler, Gemma Clapp, Alvaro Garcia

ic s

Aid

s in

Afr

ica

le 1 6 Drug Mu

London Riots 12

Emma Curran

e Mal

junior art editor

etic m s co

Marcus Faint

senior art editor

4 ria

Kirsty Welsh

8 ery g r su

acting editor

ut 44

Big Reads 4. Freedom in Syria 8. Male cosmetic surgery 12. London Riots 16. Drug mule 18. Aids in Africa 22. Forensic science 24. Social media 28. Toxic shock syndrome

marcus faint

Female protester begging for someone to save Syria

s o l C o n l il t s d n a s h Eleven Mont

o d e Fre

ser to

big r e a d

Syria has been under constant siege for more than a year, The Hype finds out what it’s like living under a regime of terror.

yria, once known as the ‘Land of Civilisations’, has now become a land of bloodshed, terror, suffering and grief. Men, women and children trapped in the basement of houses, too terrified to go outside. Gun snipers aim at pedestrians whilst running to safety. Lack of food and water as areas are cut off by military tanks. Victims are injured and dying because of insufficient medical supplies. Premature babies are dying as power-cuts hit the hospitals keeping them alive. For most people, a terrifying prospect to imagine. However, for families in Syria, this is about survival. Historically, Syria has been built on by many cultures, among them being the Babylonians, R omans, Turks and t h e West.

Political and religious differences, land disputes and tribal warfare have had a constant whip-lash effect on this part of the world. With the uprising in 1925 against France, Syria is again fighting for its freedom. This time around it is fighting against itself. The Free Syrian Army (FSA) and President Bashar al-Assad’s militia forces are now in violent clashes. Consequently, what is seen on screen and read in the papers is that war brings casualties and in this case, the casualty is freedom. Fatima is a Sunni Muslim, 21, and an English literature graduate living in Syria’s busiest modern seaport, Lattakia. She shares her experiences as a Syrian living under a regime. “We’ve been living in constant fear for the past 10 and a half months. People here are scared. We are a small city, so the security forces can always get you, and once you are caught, they won’t have mercy on you at all; either you get out of prison physically and mentally ill, or you will get out of it dead with a severely tortured body.” Fatima is a full supporter of the FSA

samantha elliot/summer grant

Syria seems a million miles away from ‘Land of Civilisations’

Syria has now become a land of bloodshed, terror, suffering and grief. and has lived through what she describes as the six ‘ugly’ days. She explains: “We went through bloody massacres and noone could get out their houses or else you would be killed. We are in a very fearful atmosphere, because security forces are all over the place. I am sick and tired of seeing them every-day. The city is not like it was before. It has completely changed. People retreat to their homes around 5-6pm, around these hours you won’t find many people walking the streets. Only the security forces and their thugs.” According to human rights organisations Amnesty International and the United Nations, Syria is among the worst in the world for the mistreatment of human beings. Famita says: “The stories that we hear from the prisoners are very disturbing; I used to cry a lot at the beginning of the revolution, but now I feel I have gotten used to it. I want to talk about what’s going on

in prisons, but I feel too shy to say it and too uncomfortable, because no human being can do or accept that or even believe it. They offend the prisoner according to his religion most of the time; they force him to say divine phrases for Bashar instead of God. This is, to sum up, what is done to the men, but I can’t tell all, especially the way they torture girls. It is very humiliating.” Torture in Syria’s prisons is systematic and lethal. Rape, whipping with sticks; being burnt with hot irons to the genitals and electrocution is commonplace. Although prohibited through the Human Rights Act in 1967 Syria is still believed to be carrying out these violations to prisoners, whether they are men, women or even children. Fatima believes there will be a change once Assad is removed. She claims that there will be more suffering after he leaves but the country, as messed up as it is, will be reorganised and allowed freedom again. She

says: “I want people around the world to stand by us, we the deprived and oppressed Syrian people. We are suffering so much and striving to get our freedom that most of you in Europe, and the US have.” As the government is now finding out, the world is being shown the truth. Twenty-two-year-old Danny Abdul Dajem has become the eyes and ears to the world exposing the catalyst of violence through his video blogs. His messages convey anger, desperation, grief and emotion. The victims have been injured and killed through the deadly assaults the Syrian government is impounding on their nation. From his home town of Babar Amr in the Homs district, the British citizen of Syrian descent pleads to the world: “This is the life we have gotten used to; rockets, bullets, killing of children in the street, body parts. Why isn’t the world helping us? Where is the humanity?” As he stands over

Images: Courtesy of PA Photos

big r e a d

a young bloodied and maimed man from a mortar attack, he translates from a man who is screaming: “We are not animals; we’re human beings; we are asking for help. They are hitting us with rockets for four hours now, and they will kill us all if you don’t help, please someone help us.” Many of the FSA, who are defected soldiers and activists like Danny, are fighting a cause. With media black outs everywhere, were it not for the brave actions of activists no-one would see the bloodhsed. They are martyrs to the people but seen as terrorists by the Government. The events that have followed since the early protests have given people all the more reason for to fight for freedom. The ‘Day of Dignity’ protest held in Damascus in March 2011 became the poignant reminder of a country that has been led by the regime. Asaad made a promise to the Syrian people that he would make

changes to the governmental power and methods of reform. His promises have not taken effect, clearly leaving the nation frustrated and let down by their president. His words are reflected in the actions of a country that is in a state of rebellion. What the FSA and the Syrian people don’t understand is the lack of support from outside nations. Who will help them and will it end up in a bigger and bloodier civil war? The Secretary of State for Foreign and Commonwealth Affairs William Hague says: “One of the difficulties in Syria is that President Assad’s power depends on a wider group of people in his own family and of course other members of government and I am not sure how free he is to pursue a reform agenda, even if he wanted to do so.” The world leaders have a battle on their hands which must be dealt with caution. With USA’s President Barack Obama

describing what he has seen as an ‘outrageous bloodshed’, surely somewhere in their subconscious minds they have all had a part to play. What happens now is anyone’s guess and who has the wildcard to move forward and aid Syria. Time is surely of the essence, with how many more lives being sacrificed? Finally Fatima adds: “Many countries around the world have so many secret vested interests with Assad. This regime is behind all the corrupt affairs around the world, and some governments still urge the regime to make reforms. This regime is a mafia. Speaking out is risking my life but the world needs to see what is happening and make moves to help us. The interviews within this feature have been adapted from http://972mag.com/exclusive-syrian-residentgives-interview-from-lattakia-relates-life-inconstant-fear/35126/ 

big r e a d

Men under the knife Despite ever increasing calls for austerity, UK cosmetic surgery is on the rise. With the number of males going under the knife increasing, The Hype investigates the reasons why men are following in the footsteps of women to achieve the ‘perfect’ look.

Image: Adam Ciesielski

ata from the British Association of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeons (BAAPS) revealed that male surgery accounts for 10% of all cosmetic surgery procedures. Last year saw a significant 15% rise in the number of male tummy tuck operations, and a 7% rise in man boob reduction operations (Gynaecomastia), which has kept its place as the 2nd most common procedure for men, after nose jobs (Rhinoplasty). These figures leave us questioning whether men are finally catching up with the trend that so many women follow. Are they just as influenced by the images in the media as the opposite sex? While most people spend months, if not years, considering cosmetic surgery before going ahead with it, Anthony Stringer from Derby was approached by the BBC’s Embarrassing Bodies after attending one of their walk-in clinics in May 2010. As a teenager, Anthony was a victim of verbal abuse due to his weight, which caused the development of ‘man boobs’ that no amount of diet or exercise could shift. “It was hard because people would stop and stare at me in the street,” Anthony explained. “When I was younger, before I started to develop facial hair people would question whether I was a boy or a girl. That kind of thing is very soul destroying. “I never actually thought about having

cosmetic surgery until I was offered it. I tried everything to lose my man boobs before my surgery and lost quite a bit of weight prior to it,” he continued. Anthony had breast reduction surgery at the Mclndoe Surgical Centre. Like many people who have had any kind of operation, Anthony had concerns about not waking up. It was the first time he had ever been under local anaesthetic. He was also worried about the scarring the surgery would cause. “The first time I saw my scars after the operation I cried. I can still see the scars a year on but it doesn’t really bother me now,” he explains. The long and painful 6-8 week recovery process hasn’t put Anthony off wanting to go under the knife again in the future though. He explained how he would have everything from his teeth, hair and face to his back, bum and legs done. He is currently saving up for Botox injections across his forehead. “If I want to spend £5,000 of my hard earned money on a face lift so I feel better about myself then that’s my decision to do so. Nobody has a right to pass judgment on what I have done. There is this whole beauty thing going on with men now who like to take care of themselves and look good. Men shouldn’t be scared to talk about it, and shouldn’t be embarrassed. I would

only advise surgery as a last resort though,” he said. Since having the surgery Anthony’s life has changed drastically. “I can do the things that I want to do now. I can wear the clothes that I want to wear, without having to go to a specialist catalogue anymore. I was unemployed at the time I had my surgery but shortly after I got myself a full time job as a waiter, which I love. People also notice me on the street from Embarrassing Bodies. It has really changed my life, not just with my new found confidence but my whole outlook on life. There’s no I’m not going to go out because I feel fat and disgusting attitude anymore, now I go out because I feel good about myself,” he said. Anthony’s surgeon, John Pereira at the Mclndoe Surgical Centre explains why he believes there has been an increase in male cosmetic surgery: “Men are not as embarrassed as they used to be about body issues. They tend to be healthier and more body aware in the past. It is no longer a taboo for men to seek solutions to body issues that trouble them, and more exposure in the media has given men the information that they need to make informed decisions about surgery for their problem areas.” For Richard Harris from Brighton, cosmetic surgery was something he had

hannah lawrence/kelly woolford

If I wa fac nt eli to ft t spe ha nd t’s my £5,0 de 00 o cis n ion a

started to consider from the young age of 23. As there was nothing available at the time to achieve the look he wanted, he could only dream of looking like the square jawed, chiselled models he saw in magazines. Unlike Anthony, Richard was very happy with his life before surgery. He decided to get surgery at the age of 35, because there was no other option to achieve the look he desired. Richard has had a long list of cosmetic procedures including jaw and chin implants, a lower face lift, permalip silicone implants, a fat transfer from his waist into his jaw line to sculpt it, temporary fillers injected along his cheek bones and under his eyes to plump up any sagging, and finally a hair transplant. “I feel like I can walk with my head held high now. I feel more confident and without sounding big headed, I attract more attention and feel more attractive than I did when I was in my 20’s,” he said.

Like Anthony, Richard isn’t surprised at the increase in the number of men getting cosmetic surgery. “Men are under more pressure to look like the models on the front of magazines, such as Men’s Health. Also, with unemployment rising men have to keep up with the younger men rising behind them on the career ladder. “I would say do your research and talk on forums anonymously. Make sure your surgeon is experienced in male surgery, you don’t want to end up with a female looking facelift.” Richard warns men that surgery can be addictive and the feeling of looking great may be something you want to repeat. He admits that if he reaches 50 and feels he needs another face lift, he will have one. John Pereira gives this advice to men who are considering cosmetic surgery: “There is no need to be embarrassed about body issues, seek out a reputable and well

qualified plastic surgeon and spend some time explaining the nature of the problem. Never rush into a decision, and never pay a deposit on your first consultation. Make sure you understand the options clearly including the likely outcomes and possible complications. “Check that your surgeon is registered as a plastic surgeon on the specialist register and has performed the sort of operation that you want frequently. Ask to see pictures of his/her work or meet another patient who has been treated. Finally, ensure the hospital is care quality commission registered and has adequate 24 hour backup in case of any emergencies,” John said. With the vast amount of information and advice available, the only person who can decide whether cosmetic surgery is the best option, is you. So if you’re a male reading this and considering going under the knife, remember you’re not alone. 

big r e a d

VIVE LA

R EVOLU TION Brazen, unrepentent and proud; The Hype talks to one of the ring leaders of last summer’s London riots.

hen the riots shocked the city of London, the confidence of the rioters was evident in their lack of disguise. With a cocky air of professionalism some took to the streets with bravado – others, however, carried out the atrocities under wraps. Alex Robson meets one rioter who fears being unmasked. “I remember it like it was yesterday.” Joe says in a dull, emotionless voice. Joe is 21, an age where he feels like he should have more than he has got, “I was sitting in on Facebook; I think it was on a Sunday when it all kicked off. I had been raving the night before at a squat party from what I can remember. My Blackberry lit up, it didn’t ping though because the speakers broken. ‘Some madness is going down in north, come we hit south with our lot’ is what it said, I keep the message on my phone for memories. That’s probably not a good idea though as it could be used as evidence. “I grabbed my bag, bolt-cutters and nightstick out from under my bed, shoved them inside, grabbed a bottle of water and left my

flat. The bolt-cutters are necessary in my week-to-week activities, and the nightstick is purely for self-protection.” Joe explains. “I saw the bus that I had to get to Clapham just driving past on the high street, so I dashed down an alleyway that cuts to the next stop and jumped on through the second set of doors where people were getting off. It only took about 15-20 minutes to get to Clapham because it was a Sunday, but we didn’t get right into Clapham, somewhere near Wandsworth Common the bus stopped and the driver said the main road ahead was cordoned off by police. “We jumped off and I walked to a different stop where my friends were. We went down some back roads and met up with the rest of the crew just off the high street and it was all going off. Every shop, apart from Waterstones, had been smashed open with shutters wedged open by street signs and bikes and other street furniture used for window smashing. People were running about in a frenzy, it was a free-for-all.” Joe goes on to say how the experience left him with a whole load of free stuff: “My first thought was to get a new phone and Vodafone shop was wide open. A couple

Alex Robson/Marcus Faint

The b olt-cu tters are necessary in my week-to-week activities and the nightstick is pu rely for self-protection

Images: Alex Robson

Police arrest a protester in Clapham

of people were behind the counter trying to open the till, so I went in there. We went in the back room, and I shoved about 4 boxes marked Blackberry Bold into my bag, and quickly ran out. I felt like a kid in a toy shop. I don’t know why I was running though; it was like something out of Grand Theft Auto. I got a couple of iPods, CDs and DVDs as well.” The riots were sparked by the shooting of a reported drug dealer in the epicentre of Tottenham, Mark Duggan. He was involved in a car chase with police from London’s drug unit, Operation Trident, which ended with him brandishing a loaded weapon at officers, who responded by shooting him and killing him. A peaceful protest by the community in Tottenham was staged outside the police station in outrage that someone had been killed for no apparent reason, which gradually got out of hand: a patrol car was set alight and officers were being bottled. Violence and looting spread across Tottenham that Saturday night, with many saying it should have stopped there, but what the police called ‘copycat criminal activity’ tore across the capital. “Youth employment is at a current rate of 20%, with more cuts being made to cover for the mistakes made by the greedy bankers and stockbrokers that hold shares in our lives.”

The inequality that Joe experiences on a day-to-day basis forms the attitudes that he expresses: “I’m just getting the taxes back that my family and I pay. It’s almost the opposite of what I pay and what I get, which is next to nothing. I’m not in a position to get a job, I’ve got few qualifications and I’ve got no chance of going to university now, especially with the Government increasing the fees to £9,000 a year. Who can afford to pay that? I’m not going to take out a loan to cover that either - I can’t be starting my life being that deep in debt. “I’ve got no opportunities and no chances, so I take what I can get. They even cut my EMA when I was going to college five days a week. I’ve been on three different courses, and each one has been shit. My mum works hard and I feel like I have to get rid of the pressure on her by providing for myself, but I obviously can’t do that.” Joe talks about the appearance of adverts and other signs of consumer culture everywhere: “They’re all enticing us to buy cars and clothes we can’t afford, working jobs we hate so that we buy stuff we don’t need. Why does the next person have more of a right to these sorts of luxuries than me? I feel like I am continually disowned by a society that is obsessed with possessions. I’m not valued enough to be helped, and I’ve got no

reason to believe that I will ever be able to afford what everyone else. “At this point in my life I’ve got nothing to lose. I still covered my face when I was grabbing that stuff though, some of my boys didn’t, with all these prison closures and the government wanting to drive down the prison population what are the chances that we are going to get caught?” The fact that he hasn’t been caught yet may speak for itself. Joe’s sister is more than sceptical of her brother’s choices: “I don’t know what’s wrong with him, he needs to change. Mum’s not impressed, but she cares more about him being happy. He thinks that what she doesn’t know can’t hurt her, but the truth is she has given up on him. “Dad left before I was born and mum is working 10 hour days just to pay the bills. He’s lived this sort of lifestyle since he left school; he had a chance for a future but didn’t take it. I’m only two years younger than him and I’m starting university next year to study Politics and Law. I even went to the same school as him, so he doesn’t really have many excuses.” With the rioting a distant memory, it still sticks in everybody’s mind what happened when rioters took over London. 

big r e a d

The drugs industry is known as one of the most lucrative industries in the world. The Hype findout what it’s like to be at the centre of the (illegal) sector.

t’s around 8am when I first wake up. I’m due to go to work for the day where I work in a shop. It’s not much, but it pays the bills. Not that I really need any extra money. If anybody knew about the secret stash of money I had in my wardrobe they’d be in for a shock. “It started a few years ago. My mate offered me some extra money when we were in the pub and, of course, I was hesitant at first - who wouldn’t be? He explained that if I collected some drugs and then sold them to someone I could get rich quick, very rich. The catch? It’s the riskiest thing I’ve ever done I just need to keep my mouth shut I’ll be fine. “I constantly read in the news about young people getting arrested and sent to prison for drug offences, ‘more fool them’, I think. By the sounds of it they’re probably shouting their mouths off - it’s only a matter of time until they get caught. “I’ve always been into sports. I got offered the chance to play football in America a few years ago but turned it down when I sustained an injury. I’m still hoping to get into it though – there’s no way I want to be stuck in this lousy city for the rest of my life. “Despite living with my mum and dad, they have no idea what I get up to. I’m sure they’d disown me if they found out. My mum works in the local school as a teaching assistant so you can only imagine the uproar that would cause if anyone were to ever find out. My dad works from home and runs his own business. It would bring massive shame to the family if I was ever caught for what I was doing.

“I try to keep a low profile and can count on one hand the number of people who know what I do. Most people think I own property and get good bonuses in my job. I work with 3 other people and together we team up to distribute and handle drugs – cocaine, ecstacy and marijuana. Once a month a mate and I will travel to either Essex or Birmingham to collect drugs. The people I meet aren’t the type I’d introduce to my girlfriend! “I’ve seen some horrific sights. Some that have put me off drugs for my life, which is ironic, seems as I’m the man in the middle of the whole thing. One bloke I know had his fingers cut off because he didn’t pay up in time. The drugs industry is evil, but unfortunately it pays for my holidays, brand new Range Rover and phone. I can’t pay the amount into the bank because they’d get suspicious – everything is done sensibly. “The weekend’s my busiest times I’ve lost count of the number of times I’ve been caught on my phone at work with people ringing me to find out if I’ve got ‘some stuff.’ It’s why I hate working Saturdays – it’s my busiest time. I don’t sell the drugs per se, but I put people in the right direction. “Would I call myself a drug dealer? Not at all. I’m not your stereotypical drug dealer. I merely make myself some money. In a way, I’m not breaking the law because I’m only picking up ‘goods’ for others. As long as they give me what they owe I don’t care what they do. I love my girlfriend, and although she has a suspicion about what I do, she’s clever enough not to ask. What I do in my spare time is my business, why should it affect my relationship? 

kirsty welsh/rob hewitt

is How much will AIDS affect the next generation of Africans?

big r e a d

hope enough? With 15.7 million AIDs orphans across Sub-Saharan Africa, the impact of the virus on children is a stark and heavy reality. Though there are governmental promises for change, is hope really enough to save the next generation?

Naomi Wilson/Marcus Faint

n the edge of a large township, surrounded by barren, dusty hillsides and beneath the hot South African sun lays a small, concrete playground. All that divides it from the dry and rocky exterior and the reality of life beyond is a simple wire fence and two large iron gates. But the bright, smiling faces and playful shouts of the children within these barriers shine like a ray of hope into the darkness of these dismal suburbs. To them, this is security and comfort. This is Ethembeni, a ‘Place of Hope’. And with a staggering 5.6 million people in South Africa living with HIV and AIDs and 1.9 million AIDs orphans in the country, a ‘Place of Hope’ is exactly what these children need. The Ethembeni Project began four years ago in Mpophomeni, a township of 30,000 people outside Howick, South Africa. With the help of faith-based charity, Tearfund, the project aims to provide social care and support to those infected and affected by HIV and AIDs. In Mpophomeni, more than half the population are living with the virus and so the impact of this on children’s lives in the town is heavily felt. With affected families unable to work, poverty rates are high and young parents dying of AIDs-related diseases means orphaned children are left to

Identifying the people in need is incredibly important

support themselves. Tearfund volunteer, Sarah Kennedy has witnessed this impact first hand. By spending one month living in the region and working with Ethembeni, she has seen how this project is offering the hope it promises. “They have three main focuses to the project”, she explains. “One of their focuses was the family centre where I was based for most of the time. They have 70 kids who are apparently some of the most deprived kids in the area. They may be from childlead households, or may be HIV positive themselves. “Basically, Ethembeni provide relief for them during the day, they get food and help with their homework. At the moment they also have links to help get the drugs needed to lessen the symptoms of AIDs, so it is a really important project,” Sarah adds. But the family centre does more than just provide the basic needs of nutrition and health for these vulnerable children. The aim of Ethembeni is also to provide emotional and spiritual support, and simply show them a love their society doesn’t. “Each member of staff is assigned to roughly seven children, and they will talk with them each day, pray with them and counsel them,” says Sarah. “They help them through their big issues, because obviously a lot of the kids have major difficulties coming from their backgrounds.”

Aside from the need for physical and emotional support for children, an almost larger problem for Mpophomeni lurks beneath the surface. In the more conservative culture of the KwaZulu Natal region of the south-east, the problem of HIV and AIDs is rarely spoken of. “It’s a massive taboo in South Africa, I’d assume it’s a massive taboo everywhere, AIDs is just really not talked about at all. If you were talking to an adult who had it they would just say they were ill. They would never tell you they had AIDs,” she says. Naturally, as the people of KwaZulu Natal feel the need to stay silent about it, it’s almost as if the problem of HIV and all its impacts are just swept under society’s carpet. This makes resolving the issue much more difficult as it is impossible to fix a problem which society won’t admit to having. Dr Charlie Besley, Director of Medicine in AIC Kijabe Hospital in Kenya understands the need for working within the society to change perceptions and provide needed medical care. He says: “The key to success is finding the HIV cases within the area, identifying those that need to be on treatment and then getting them to comply and adhere to that treatment. Community support was absolutely key to that.” This makes the work of Ethembeni all the more valuable. As the only family centre of

big r e a d

Images: Dr. Charlie Besley

“It’s a massive taboo in South Africa, I’d assume it’s a massive taboo anywhere... but you don’t meet a family that hasn’t been infected of affected by HIV” its kind in Mpophomeni, the staff not only ensure that families with HIV are found and placed on an appropriate medical plan, but that sufferers are not subject to the shame that comes with the disease. “All the children are treated the same. I didn’t feel like there was any difference between any of them, they just got on with it. There was equality between every child, no one was singled out or shunned,” says Dr Besley. Though the project may seem like a small measure against a huge problem, Sarah still sees importance of the work of Ethembeni and Tearfund in Mpophomeni. “Although they are only helping 70 kids, that’s still 70 kids whose lives are improving, which is better than none,” he says. “It is definitely a sustainable and important project.” While this ‘Place of Hope’ may provide relief in the KwaZulu Natal region, it is not only South Africa where the effects of HIV are so cruelly evident in children’s lives. The statistics and stories from the country are a mere reflection of the problem across the whole of Sub-Saharan Africa, where it is estimated a staggering 22.5 million people are now living with the virus. By 2015, the United Nations aim to ‘halt and begin to reverse the spread of HIV/AIDS’, under the Millennium Development Goals. This is slowly being achieved through the

United Nations Development Programmes (UNDPs) which are set up to provide support and care to infected families. Under the same goal, the UN also aims to increase the school attendance of AIDs orphans aged 10-14. In child-lead households, the responsibility of becoming a stand-in parent often falls on the eldest child, meaning education and a chance to have a normal childhood become impossible. Children orphaned by AIDs therefore suffer much more than just the loss of their parents. But when the statistics are so big, and the impact on children so vast, are these goals really achievable? Dr Besley feels positive that things are slowly moving forward in the battle against the virus. “We have seen huge reductions in the incidence of HIV across the central province of Kenya, we saw the average rate down to 3% after 5 or 6 years,” he says. He also feels the AIDs Relief Programme in AIC Kijabe Hospital - which is one of the biggest in the country - is partly responsible for the increase in life expectancy. In 2004, people were expected to live to an age of 47, but by 2009 that figure had jumped to 59 as result of HIV care and prevention. But in spite of the improvements in numbers, Dr Besley still sees the weight of the impact of the virus on the young. “You don’t meet a family who hasn’t been

The future needs to be addressed

AIDS can crush families

infected or affected by HIV and so the impact of that on families is huge. There are, unfortunately, many orphans who have lost one or both of their parents. You get the eldest child who might only be 12 or 13 looking after maybe four or five brothers and sisters at home. “The other huge impact is on grandparents. You would end up with grandparent-lead households who are like these unsung heroes looking after these orphans of HIV,” explains Dr Besley. Looking forward to the future of Kenya and Sub-Saharan Africa as a whole however, he is hopeful that AIDs Relief Programmes and the help of Non-Governmental Organisations will see big improvements for families and children, but he knows the problem can never disappear completely. “There are hopes ahead for funding and for that magic bullet that is going to knock HIV out completely, but scientifically, I think we are some way from that,” he says. But in the meantime, back in that concrete playground among the dusty South African hillsides, there are still the happy, playful shouts of 70 lucky children. The love and security behind those iron gates continues to be a ray of light in the bleak reality of the problem. For these young smiling faces, this is still ‘Place of Hope’ - and right now, hope is all they need. 

t’s a Saturday morning when Judy walks into the small ground floor flat with laminate flooring and modern décor. It’s warm and bright inside and there is a 20 year-old male lying dead on the living room floor. His clothes are completely soaked in the blood that has been gushing uncontrollably from wounds on his chest. This is a normal day for Hampshire Constabulary’s scientific services team. There is a large carving knife lying by his side and the blood has spread from his lifeless body across the sleek laminate flooring. It has sprayed over the ceiling, walls, furniture and the mirror hanging above the fireplace close to the body. The blood on the floor is wet and sticky making it incredibly difficult to manoeuvre around the flat. The front door was locked when the police arrived, but the window on the far side of the man’s body had been left wide open leading on to a small communal grassed area. Imagine being part of the team that has to work out exactly what’s happened in this room and why there is a young man lying dead in this little flat. There’s someone out there who has killed this man and a distraught family wanting answers. This is a typical day for Hampshire Constabulary’s crime scene investigator, Judy Taylor. It’s Judy’s team’s job to figure how he got there, who picked up the knife and stabbed him with it: “In my 20 years with the police, sights like this always take my breath away, but it’s my job to remain professional and not let it affect my colleagues or I emotionally. I’ve always said that although you can’t help the dead, you can help their families by finding out what’s happened.” It’s the forensic team’s responsibility to use their skills and knowledge to work out exactly what has happened at the crime scene and piece together a series of events. It becomes a detailed and long procedure, but applies to every type of crime scene. When Judy arrives at the scene, the police have already sealed off the flat and the communal area. The first thing the forensic team must do is to establish control in this way. The scene is cordoned off to prevent unauthorised access and to hide scenes of a disturbing nature, regardless if it’s a small room or an entire forest. It’s key to the process that the team does this quickly to prevent any evidence being destroyed or contaminated which could jeopardise the results of the investigation. A forensic assessment then takes place where the Crime Scene Investigators will assess the scene based on the information

they have already been given. This includes assessing the scenes potential to help interpret what has happened and to start identifying or eliminating people. Judy says: “When I entered the flat I expected just a body and blood and little else. This can allow me to investigate from a neutral angle with no one influencing my decisions.” The strategy is the most important part of the procedure as the team begins to collect all the evidence needed. Initially the scene will be videoed and photographed to document how the scene was found, then, any fibre, hair, glass and fingerprints will be taken as evidence. The team also examine the open window and the front door to determine if either had been used. The scene remains closed until after the post mortem, which, in this case, revealed the man had been stabbed 74 times in the chest. “The knife was taken for further examination and the head, hands and feet were wrapped in plastic, packaged up and placed in a body bag. It’s then taken for a forensic post mortem,” Judy explains. Finally when all relevant evidence has been collected it needs to be reviewed. The forensic team will discuss the most important pieces of evidence and the bits they’re most likely to get answers to be sent for testing. Hampshire Constabulary’s head of Scientific Services, Terry Lowe expressed how important it is for these decisions to be made very carefully because it could be a vital – and an extremely costly - part of the investigation. To have a small amount of blood tested to make a DNA profile it would cost £250. It’s only imaginable about how much it would cost to have tests of a room full of blood – how can the team assume the blood is from one person? By making assumptions, important information can be missed: “We select what we think will bring us the most answers and we then send that away for tests. If, in the event we still need more answers, we will send more evidence which could lead to everything being sent for tests if that’s what it takes. We have to budget, but we will not cut corners,” explains Terry. Forensic technology is continually changing and developing improving the results and accuracy of forensic investigations. Cases from decades ago are now being solved because of matching DNA using the electronic national DNA database. In 1981 Marion Crofts - then 14 years old - was attacked, sexually assaulted and murdered near her home in Aldershot, Hampshire. At the time her murderer was not found.

Imagine being the forensic team investigating this case when they were unable to find the killer of a little girl and bring him to justice, it would have been frustrating and upsetting for Marion’s family. However, in 1999 a DNA profile of her killer was obtained. DNA on Marion’s clothes was taken and sealed using sensitive techniques, which prevented the DNA from degrading. The information was entered into the DNA database but there were no matches and the case remained unsolved. However, in April 2001 a Leicester man was charged for assaulting his wife and thus ensuring his DNA profile was entered in to the DNA database and the match was made. Twenty years later and the murderer of Marion Crofts was finally brought to justice. “This was a fantastic breakthrough for us and a brilliant example of how technology is changing and really making a difference. Anyone who is in trouble with the police will have their DNA taken and searched against the National DNA database. If they’ve offended before - but wasn’t caught - their DNA will match and we will be notified,” Terry explains. “Similarly it works that if a match wasn’t made then their DNA will be stored. If they were to reoffended and their DNA will make a match.” There are two electronic databases: The National Fingertip Database which stores 6 million people’s fingertips and the National DNA Database, which holds almost 6 million people’s DNA. These databases proved extremely important pieces of technology for the scientific services. Every day members of the scientific services investigate a range of different crime scenes from what they call volume crime such as burglaries to homicides and rape. They’re regularly faced with shocking and disturbing scenes. However it’s crucial the team maintain their professionalism and together, with the new and improved technology, they solve crimes and bring criminals to justice. They might be behind the scenes of major cases, but they provide the foundations to the results and without the work they put in and the new technology that assists them, there would be a lot more criminals out there roaming the streets. Terry Lowe is very passionate about his job and the years of experience he has gained in the profession: “We work hard to get results. It’s incredibly rewarding and it really is a job where you can make a difference. We see some horrific things, but it’s those sights that drive us to find answers and bring criminals to justice.” 

: I CS

big r e a d

s e n e c s e h t d n Behi

ly on r a l u g e r es are n e c s eality r e e m i h t Cr â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s t ut wha b , n o i s i v e goes tele p y H e h T ama? of the e n o of the dr f o s e scene h t d n i h e b tries... s u d n i e m so most grue sarah abrahams/nicole cook 23

Media WATCH

big r e a d

With social networking being part of everyday life it has become an extension of who we are, but the real question is, are we truly aware of the impact of what we do online and should we be more careful about what we say?

tom whitehead/angus marriott 25

“We would be careful when speaking to someone face-to-face, so why is online any different?”

rained writers and journalists once ruled the land of printed media while the outspoken disc jockeys ruled the airwaves. However, things have now changed. Keyboard warriors and podcast soldiers without a minute of media experience can challenge all in their wake. Online social media has given us a platform to air our opinions and share our daily insights with others. But do we really understand the implications of what we say or write? A recent Tweet posted by Leigh Van Bryan stating that he was going to “destroy America”, resulted in him being refused entry into the United States. Was this an extreme measure, or a necessary precaution? America has been one of the most precious countries especially in a post 9-11 state, and although it has been over 10 years since the attack on the twin towers the fear of terrorism has not dwindled. This fear has pushed pressure onto a government that needs to maintain order as well as an image of power and control. If Van Bryan had posted a letter to the White House threatening America he would probably expect to be in a spot of bother, so why would posting something online be any different? The product of social media is the need to be witty. Sarcasm and mocking quips are exchanged back and forth and this dry sense of humour fits particularly well in countries like England where we are famed for such a comedic style. Joking around can cause problems for governing bodies because they can’t pass all threats off as a joke. It is unlikely that a terrorist would post on Facebook before they plan an attack but airing on the side of caution may sometimes be necessary. The Royal Courts of Justice is currently

seeing the case of Paul Chambers, 27, from Doncaster, who was accused of menacing electronic communication. He has been lumbered with large costs and lost his job in the process. He posted on Twitter “Robin Hood Airport is closed. You’ve got a week and a bit... otherwise I’m blowing the airport sky high!” Magistrates ruled that the message was clearly menacing and that airport staff were right to report it. Despite this ruling 4,000 people posted the same message in anger of the decision. None of these people were charged and highlighted the difficulty of patrolling online content. Stephen Fry, Al Murray and writer of Father Ted, Graham Linehan were present in court to defend Chambers and their own livelihoods as comedians. There has been much involvement from comedians who want to protect their profession and their right to freely tell jokes, whether they are deemed amusing or not. If prosecutions became commonplace then the role of a comedian would come under scrutiny from the law and would perhaps have a tight grip on what they could do. Web designer Kevin Tyler, who works with social media, believes in being careful when using such sites. “It’s important that everyone takes care when posting things online,” Kevin says. “We would be careful when speaking to someone face-to-face so why is online any different?” It is sometimes forgotten that so many people can see what we post online and some individuals’ online personas are much different from that of their actual persona. Kevin adds: “It is also worth taking care because making an offensive comment may affect future job prospects”. Employers can browse the internet and Google a potential future employee if they

see fit to do so. If this search was to reveal some outrageous or absurd comments your job prospects could be seriously hindered. Photos showing you enjoy ten pints of Stella and dancing on tables can represent you in a negative way, particularly if the viewer does not know you fully. Such images would probably disappoint your own mother let alone a potential future employer. ‘Banter’ is one of the most popular ways of engaging with one another, particularly with younger generations. A casual joke which is harmless to all is known as ‘banter’, but through time has become at times far more cruel and offensive than a mere joke. These jokes have sometimes gone too far and have caused wide spread offence. Paul Atkins works in IT and believes a different approach is needed. “Governing bodies need to use common sense sometimes, especially when it’s clear to all that an individual is joking,” he says. Perhaps if more common sense was applied then the courts would be saved time to work on more serious crimes. The world has become a smaller place and we can easily communicate with people thousands of miles away. The social media networks have given people a place to voice their opinions and casually discuss anything they wish. Just like a conversation on the bus, the conversations that take place do not exclusively stay between two people. The issue of privacy has seemed to escape many people in the modern world and we no longer worry about how our words will affect others. Social Media has blurred the lines between running commentary and dangerous threats. In a society where we are more easily monitored our words are more important and precious than ever before. 

big r e a d

Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention: Attention:

Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use Use

at at at at at at at at at at at at at at at at at at

your your your your your your your your your your your your your your your your your your

own own own own own own own own own own own own own own own own own own

risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk risk

Attention: Use at own risk t u o b a h t tru

TSS:The k c o h s c i x to

Attention: Use at own risk 28 Writer/designer

big r e a d

Alice Kilver sadly died in 1991 of TSS

Alice Kilvert lost her life to TSS- a condition she never knew could kill her. Coping with the after effects of toxic shock

t was that dull, dark time of year and Catherine was busy studying in her bedroom. A vicious knock grew louder on her front door and the hysterical cries that went with it began to drown out the sound of her music. She ran downstairs, heart pounding. Her best friend’s mum was beside herself. Alice was dead. Catherine stood in horror as she gazed upon Alice as she lie lifeless on the floor. How could this be happening? Alice had only been off sick from school once, and now she was gone. Numbness was all Catherine could feel, it seemed like she was living a nightmare and she hoped she would awake any second. Except it wasn’t a nightmare, it was reality. At 15 years old, Alice Kilvert lost her life to Toxic Shock Syndrome (TSS) - a condition she never knew could kill her. She had been using tampons for six months when her flu-like symptoms resulted in her death. On the back of every packet of tampons there are warnings about the disease, but it is not made clear enough just how serious TSS is. Do you know how at risk you could be? “If the doctors had asked whether Alice was wearing a tampon, her life could have been saved,” says Alice’s best friend, Catherine Edwards. Catherine, now 35, lived two doors down from Alice. They played on the street together when they were young and although they attended separate primary and secondary schools, it didn’t affect their friendship. Alice would wait for Catherine every day after school. “She had so much confidence for someone so young and I admired that. She was more clued up about the world than I

was,” says Catherine. “We did a lot together, played together, walked to and from school, attended discos and concerts. We even had the same Saturday job.” It was a cold November day in Manchester in 1991. Alice had been sent home from school after feeling unwell. She went to bed straight away and awoke in the late evening to watch one of her favorite programmes, and then returned back to her bed, where she grew rapidly worse. The following morning her symptoms were persisting, so her father rang an ambulance. Once Alice arrived at hospital she was put on a ventilator, as she could not breathe on her own. All her organs began to fail and she suffered two cardiac arrests. Tragically, she did not survive the second one. Twenty years on, Catherine still finds it hard to accept Alice is not here with her. “Alice would have been the godmother to my children; we always spoke about the future together. We had already chosen our Maid of Honour dresses for our weddings. We even joked about having a joint wedding,” she says, smiling. “Being an only child, Alice was very much a younger sister to me, with only 10 months between us. Having a friend die so young really shook me up. It took me a long time to get over Alice’s death and it still upsets me today,” she continues. After the death, her parents Peter and Jenny decided to set up a charity named after their beloved daughter, Alice Kilvert Tampon Alert (AKTA). Catherine has helped take part in the charity and came into close contact with researchers and tampon manufacturers. The disease is life threatening and has killed one in three sufferers this year alone.

TSS is a bacterial infection that is still not completely understood today. It is a common bacteria that can live harmlessly on the skin, inside the nose, armpit and vagina and is triggered when certain forms of the bacteria produce toxins. Anyone can get TSS; it’s not just females that are prone to the disease. Around half of reported cases are associated with women who use tampons, but men and children can also suffer from the infection due to insect bites, burns or boils. If the infection is caught in time, the disease is treated with a course of antibiotics that kills off the bacteria. Alice’s symptoms were commonly associated with a severe case of flu, experts say, so it is important that you make others aware if you are on your period and feeling unwell. “Girls need to make sure they let a parent know they are on their period, so that if they were to become ill they are aware. It must be taken into consideration if they were to fall seriously ill in a short space of time. After Alice died I was scared to use tampons but it didn’t stop me,” Catherine explains. “Sanitary towels back then were big, bulky and uncomfortable; I really did not want to go back to using them. At school we had been encouraged to use tampons, as they were more convenient. I became very paranoid after losing Alice, I took more care when changing them, making sure I washed my hands every time and making sure I didn’t leave one in for more than four hours,” she says. Tampon absorbency is the only real link with the disease, as research in the 1980’s showed. Tampax provides a leaflet explaining TSS, but this information is not

charlotte babington/emma curran 29

enough. Some girls have never heard of the disease due to the lack of knowledge about the life-threatening infection. “I am angry about the manufacturing of the product, if there had been more warning Alice would have been more wary,” explains Catherine. “It seems they’re prepared to take the risk in order for their product to do well. At the time, tampons were modern and they clearly did not carry out thorough research as we all thought we were using something safe. Alice knew little about the disease but she had heard of it and certainly knew more about it than me.” The press did not show any sympathy for the Kilvert family after Alice’s death, claiming it was her own fault she died, as she must have forgotten to remove her tampon. Heartbroken enough already, Catherine found this hard to hear. “What the newspapers printed made the situation harder to handle. They were blaming Alice for her own death. It made me so angry. My heart went out to Peter and Jenny,” she says. Alice did not forget to change her tampon, TSS can occur in less than two hours and in 3-4 hours the patient becomes too ill to remove the tampon and according to research one tampon can be used for up to six hours. Alice’s parents have travelled across

Europe promoting the campaign, and even visited Tampax to push for National Tampon Day, which unfortunately was not granted. It seems that doctors and nurses do not know enough themselves and in many cases, like Alice’s, TSS is wrongly diagnosed. Peter, Alice’s father, believed she was suffering from flu, he had never heard of TSS until it was too late for his daughter. “My wife and I believed Alice had a very bad case of flu, as her symptoms were very similar,” he says. “It wasn’t until the next morning that she was very confused, her temperature soared and she began to suffer breathing difficulties. It was by this time I knew something was seriously wrong and we called an ambulance.” Tracey Heath, a member of the Toxic Shock Syndrome Information Service (TSSIS), also believes there is not enough information about the it. “I have studied TSS for 10 years, the research that is being carried out to find more information about the disease is constantly underway. People dismiss the idea of TSS, some people I meet who ask my occupation have never even heard of the disease and I find this scary. “Although TSS is rare, it is still serious. I am aware of Alice’s case; Catherine and the Kilvert family have helped the TSSIS over the years as this case has helped the service

get the publicity it needs to help the others,” says Tracey. Both Tracey and Peter strongly believe that children should be educated in school about the risks of using tampons. Katie Webb, 15, was a tampon user for two years before becoming a victim of TSS - twice. She was lucky enough to survive both incidences. “I was so lucky, to think I had suffered from TSS twice and have come out fighting I am blessed. When I was going through the experience I felt so ill that I switched off to the fact I might die. I guess you reach a stage where you don’t care what happens, you just want the pain to go away,” explains Katie. “It upsets me that the doctors didn’t diagnose it straight away, it isn’t their fault but this is a prime example of when people don’t know enough about the disease. It makes me angry in a way, as they are people you trust, your life is in their hands. I am so fortunate to have survived TSS, my heart goes out to those who have lost their life against the horrible disease,” she says. Toxic Shock Syndrome is a rare disease needing more attention. A message to girls - be careful when using tampons. Be aware of the dangers, if you’re on your period and unwell, don’t worry about overreacting…it’s better to be safe than sorry.  The risks behind wearing tampons can be lethal

oooooo oooooo o Entertainment ooooo oooooo oooooo ooooo ooooo ooooo ooooo

Image: Rebecca Libby

32. James Morrison 36. Emeli Sande 40. Chris Arran 44. A week without... 46. Beijing 48. Canada Tour

Image: Julian Broad

ent e r t a

ESOLC CLOSE D NA AND L ANOSREP PERSONAL HTIW WITH S EMAJ JAMES NOSIRROM MORRISON

AS THE AWARD WINNING SINGER PERFORMED AT THE SOUTHAMPTON GUILDHALL, THE HYPE CAUGHT UP WITH HIM TO TALK ABOUT HIS CAREER, FAMILY AND BEING SURROUNDED BY WOMEN

cathering collins & kirsty fensome/emma curran 33

Morrison has sold more than 350,000 copies of his new album

n a simple grey hoody and jeans, strolling in casually and planting a kiss on our cheeks, you’d never believe James Morrison was an award-winning, international pop star. As he opens up about life as a musician, winning awards, family life with his toddler daughter and partner away from touring, his down-to-earth approach to life and modesty in light of fame would never give it away either. But he is no stranger to success and awards, winning his first Brit as he was just breaking into the music industry at 21. He received a nomination this year in the Best Male Solo Artist category, but lost out to people’s favourite redhead Ed Sheeran. Not that he’s bothered with his past years of success. “I thought Ed was gonna win it,” he says. “It’s been quite a year for him.” After winning in 2007, James was surprised to find himself nominated again this year, alongside Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds and James Blake. “Having a Brit was amazing for me as an artist when I first came out,” he recalls. “It would still be amazing to get one now, but when I got that first one, that was definitely more important to me than if I won this one.” Backstage at Southampton Guildhall on a cold Spring afternoon, James looks relaxed and honest when he says: “I’m

actually really stoked for Ed. “I’m not gonna sit here, pretending to be really happy, but at the same time, he’s good. “I’m on my third album, so it’s time for me to move over a little bit, which is fine, I don’t mind being that person now.” Lounging on an arm chair, the Rugby born singer adds: “Awards are exciting but I dunno, I just find all the gigs and everything else a lot more rewarding. “It’s quite a lot of pressure to feel that you have to stay in the top, whereas now I can just play really nice gigs that are sold out. “That’s what it’s about for me really, is playing gigs, more than the adulation and the rewards, but it’s nice to be nominated.” James is in Southampton for his Awakening tour, the album went straight to number one in the charts when it was released last September and has since sold more than 350,000 copies. “I wanted to write songs that had a lot of emotion in so that I could sing them every night,” he says. The British musician had a rough childhood and moved around a lot, but is also grateful for the life he has made for himself now. His album The Awakening is his most personal, including a track in memory of his late father who had battled alcoholism and depression for years. “If I had to sing about my dad (In My Dreams), it had to be positive or it would just be a head wrecker, singing loads of sad

songs every night. I wanted it to be more like a positive kind of feeling.” The star also explains how Elsie, his three-year-old daughter with fiancée Gill, was an inspiration for him. He explains: “I wanted to be subtle about it. “I didn’t feel that I could match emotionally yet, with a song to what I feel about my daughter. I don’t want to use her as a writing subject and get it wrong. “If it comes naturally, then I’ll write about her more obviously, but The Awakening is probably the only song on the album that’s for her.” As James begins to open up about his daughter, he says: “I try to be quite private like that, because it’s my family. “She’s like my sacred little world. If anyone even took a picture of her, I’d go mental. “I don’t see my daughter a lot, and if I do, it’s like two days at a time and then I’m gone again. And then I might have four days with her after a three week period, so it’s quite tough. “I just want to be there to pick up on the little things all the time, like the, ‘don’t do that’ and just the parenting things that you need to keep on top of.” His face lights up and there is a definite twinkle in his eye as he recalls: “I took Elsie to my gig the other day and she loved it. “It was the first gig she’d ever been to and she started crying after the first song

big r e a d

Performer by day, family man by night

‘cos everyone was clapping and she was like, ‘stop clapping at him.’ “She didn’t know what was going on. “She already wants to be a singer and she sings along to loads of songs on the radio and she’s just got a really good sense of humour for a little kid. She is really cool.” The singer laughs as he explains how Elsie has decided he is not allowed to be in her band. She tells him: “You’re not in the band daddy, you’re not singing, I’m singing.” He adds: “It’s hard being away a lot. Gill’s really good with all that sort of stuff and I speak to her regularly. “Seeing Elsie is a lot more difficult for me to go without. “I go from playing sold out venues and everyone saying, ‘hey let’s have a picture’,

and then going home to, ‘Oh the dishes need doing, take the bin out’ and all that. “But whatever, it’s just a kind of kick of reality. Which is actually pretty good, I don’t mind it. “Sometimes it would be nice to be eased in, rather than smacked in the face with reality as soon as you come through the door, but that’s the facts of life. “It’s actually the one thing I’ve got that keeps my head levelled, is having that reality when I get home.” It is clear from the way he acts and talks that family mean a lot, as James absentmindedly plays around with his engagement ring as he speaks. Changing to fiddling with the chain around his neck, the question about potentially having another child arose: “I

would love another one. “I don’t know whether it’s going to happen anytime soon to be honest, but I would love to have another kid. “I’d like a boy ‘cos I’ve already got a girl, but if I had another girl, it wouldn’t bother me.” He laughs as he says: “I got a dog the other week, a new dog. “There were just too many girls around, you know? I had my sister and she’s got a little girl, then there’s my other half and we’ve got a little girl. My cat’s a girl, and I was like I need a boy in the house man. “So I got a male dog and it actually feels better already just having a male dog. I’m like, ‘c’mon boy’ and I’ll take him out for a run. Yeah, wear him out and feel manly!” 

Leading the way for British talent

steps to

Heaven Emeli SandĂŠ radiates uniqueness. From her elevated quiff and tomboy tendencies to her sensationally raw voice... say hello to the Brit Awards Criticsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Choice Winner.

ent e r t a

nchanted by her father’s choice of music, the soulful-sounds of Nina Simone filled the room; a young girl closes her eyes and envisions her own melodic tones reaching out to a generation. Fast forward a decade and those dreams have now become a reality for the UK’s latest singing sensation. Launched into the spotlight in 2009, Emeli Sandé appeared alongside British rapper Chipmunk, on his top 10 single ‘Diamond rings’. It was to be the start of what critics are calling a ‘meteoric rise to fame’. Notching up several impressive collaborations since, the

24-year-old has reached the top of the charts with Professor Green and filling dancefloors with the help of Tinie Tempah. Paving the way for her debut single ‘Heaven’, which shot to No.2 in the UK charts. Now it’s her turn to go solo - a debut single which stormed the charts to an award winning future predicted, everything she touches turns to musical gold. Sandé sharpened her song writing skills and formed a partnership with grime producer ‘Naughty Boy’. After the success of ‘Diamond rings’, industry giants came calling. To date the budding songstress has written for

an array of musical royalty, ranging from Susan Boyle, to Cheryl Cole and many in between. Even media mogul, Simon Cowell, named Emeli his “favourite songwriter at the minute”. She holds the sheer ability to capture the essence of an emotion, and paint a metaphorical picture with her words. The intense lyrics lead the imagination to the graphic imagery behind the song. In her song ‘Kill the boy’ she sings: “I walk around with murder in my eyes, I’m gonna turn my baby blue, I practiced in the mirror hundred times, but still can’t bring myself to shoot”. The ‘Heaven’ singer songwriter delves into the dark side, specialising in songs about heartache, depression and sorrow. Treating her songs like works of art, she aims to create impact with her words – a powerful attribute for an artist to have. Proud parents Diane and Joel Sandé named their daughter Adele Emeli Sandé, but she consciously dropped her first name when singer Adele hit the charts. At seven her parents recognised her creative musical spark and brought her, a piano. Unbeknown to them, this was her first step to stardom Growing up in Aberdeenshire, writing and performing her own songs became precedence; she had a rare gift many other artists’ lacked. The infatuation with music grew with her, but she found herself following a different path. Enrolling on a clinical neuroscience degree at Glasgow University, Emeli believed medicine was the correct route to follow. Four years later, her passion for music still remained. Education was important but her infatuation was with song writing. It was tough decision to make, but she followed her heart and began pursuing her music career. For now though, Emeli’s priorities lie firmly on her forth-coming album, ‘Our Version of Events’ due to be released in February 2012. Continuing to grab unlikely attention, the highflying soloist most recent conquest is her childhood icon, Alicia Keys. From a young age Emeli idolised the US superstar and her mesmerising performances. So song-writing together has fulfilled one of her biggest dreams to date. Many elements highlight her sheer individuality. The partly shaved head and body art scream personality, she’s no ‘girlpowered’ pop singer, and she is here to carve her mark – a niche in her own right. The future looks bright for the artistic, medical school dropout. The honesty and rawness in her songs could possibly lead to her becoming the UK’s next big thing. Potential rivals such as Jessie J and Katy B should step aside because I can’t see anything holding back this hugely acclaimed star from reached the top.

Charlotte webb/Marcus Faint 37

w A &

A S h it

e d n

ind her success h e b y r o t s e h t s l ree in medicine. eli Sande revea g m e E d , l n o a ic ic g in l in c is r r e e h h T ove for music to l r e h , d o o h d il h c from her

Hype: Emeli you’ve made a real connection with the youth of today, why do you think that is? Emeli: I think maybe its because a lot of people underestimate how intelligent young people are. I remember feeling very frustrated when I was young that there was very few artists played on the radio that I could identify with. I always aim to be as honest as I can with my music and never underestimate the listener. I hope that they hear something they can identify with in my music. Hype: You have been named a role model for young people because you’ve worked so hard, did you set out to be one? Emeli: I hope I can be a good role model! I’d love to give a positive message. Everything is possible if you’re willing to work hard for it. Hype: So in the beginning was your passion singing or song writing? Emeli: I have always sung since I was really little. But my passion is writing, your words will last longer than your voice will ever last. So if you can get them on point make sure they are worthy of being remembered. Hype: Growing up who was the biggest inspiration to follow your dream? Emeli: Nina Simone was a great inspiration to me. She was an incredible musician who worked incredibly hard to achieve incredible things in her career. Her

story taught me that we should never underestimate the power of music. Hype: Have you always been musically gifted? Emeli: Well, my dad is quite musical and has a really good ear but never had the money or the opportunity to learn formally. There was always a lot of music and appreciation of it in the house. My mum hates it when I say she isn’t musical at all but she is very good at story telling so I think it’s a combination of the two. I was lucky enough I had his ear and could be trained. Hype: Most children hate their parent’s music, but it sounds like your Dad’s choices in music really influenced you? Emeli: Yeah. My dad loved Anita Baker. But the first person I fell in love with was Nina Simone. I remember being embarrassed because it was dad’s music but she made me want to play piano and be a songwriter. We didn’t have a piano when I was in primary school so every time I could get in I would play but then we got one when realised I was quite serious and started getting lessons which am so glad about. Hype: Would I be right in saying the piano is your favourite instrument? Emeli: The piano is so diverse and great for song writing and I love guitar too as it’s so easy to pick up and take everywhere. Hype: Was there a specific moment it

became more than hobby? Emeli: I remember when I was 7 and thought about wanting to be a singer. I know that sounds silly as I was in a tiny village in Scotland but I just had a feeling. I think that’s when my parents realised. Hype: Songwriters have many influences when it comes to their music. What do you think influenced your writing? Emeli: I always think why can’t pop be poetic. Why do we have to sacrifice lyric to be catchy. Sometimes I listen to lyrics and think that’s allowed? But there are great songs around. I think A Team is very poetic. I read a lot. I think the more you read the better you’ll become. Always write when in the writer mode. Having had big discussions. When am on the road I’m in performer mode and I miss writing heaps. Hype: What’s the best advice you can give anyone setting out following their dreams (at university or outside university) Emeli: I would say, every day remind yourself of why you’re doing it and why you want it so bad. Expect people to doubt you, expect knock backs but remember that you know best. Most importantly stay focused on the reason you want it -- one of my favourite quotes is “Chase the dream, not the competition”. Hype: Have any of your dreams turned into a reality? Emeli: At the beginning of the year I had

ent e r t a

this white board in my room and I wrote down who I wanted to write for, and what I want to do this year. I did actually have Susan Boyle, Alicia Keys, on there. Hype: So did you ever imagine that one day you and Alicia Keys would be writing songs together? Emeli: Nah come on! I really wanted to write for her but I didn’t know how. So I thought lets just see what happens. She asked me out of the blue to support her at the Royal Albert Hall. I think she’d heard some stuff online. I stuck around at the end of the gig to maybe meet her but she was super busy. But then my A&R was over in the US with Professor Green in the same studio and said to check out my stuff. She rang two weeks later and said she’d love to play with me so I was like wow. Hype: Wow I bet you couldn’t believe your luck? Emeli: I couldn’t. I was quite nervous to meet her but she’s a really cool girl and very humble. She’s not a diva. She’s super intelligent and you could tell she was so for making the music. Our priority was to write great songs –nothing else. I had to forget she was a multi-million selling artist. To find someone you can write well with is very rare. Even if she wasn’t Alicia Keys it would’ve been a great session. Hype: What’s your’re biggest achievement to date?

Emeli: Being nominated for the Brits critics choice award Hype: What’s your ultimate dream you still have to achieve? Emeli: Having a number 1 album! Hype: You have written for such a lot of urban artists... Emeli: I guess it’s because I met Naughty Boy who as a producer was very connected with the urban scene. He knew Stephen and Chipmunk. So I got a reputation for writing choruses for rappers via word of mouth. Then you start saying who’d you like to write for then Simon Cowell starts asking for songs. Hype: There has been a lot of debate about your lyrics being dark… Emeli: People are thinking too much into my lyrics. They are honest and emotive and make you think. Hype: You’re not only musically gifted but academically to? Emeli: In my heart I will always be a musician but there was a time I also wanted to be a doctor too. I decided to enrol on a clinical neuroscience degree at Glasgow University. I remember when my parents dropped me off. They bought me a keyboard so I could write and chill out between studying. My mums said don’t forget you’re a musician. So that was really nice they believed that. It helps me relax in these grotty student halls.

Hype: Was that hard balancing your studies and your music? Emeli: I couldn’t write about anything as I was either in the library or home- I wasn’t experiencing anything apart from medicine. Hype: When did it all become too much to cope with? Emeli: After my 4th year I’d met Naughty Boy and we’d written Diamond Rings. That had gone to number 6 in the charts and I was still balancing things. Then I got published in the summer. That’s when I started believing I might have a shot at this. I saw the window opening, you’re either going to do it now or never. Hype: Do you regret not completing your degree? Emeli: I do as hate starting something and not finishing. I did graduate as that extra year gave me honours in neuroscience. But when you start to be a doctor you want to finish. But you can’t have everything. Singing is my natural place. I’m so happy but I would love to have a doctor’s degree on the wall next to a discs. Hype: If you could work with any one in the world that you haven’t worked with yet, who would it be? Emeli: I’m hoping to hook up with John Legend soon. Of course Chris Martin would be a dream come true. He’s one of the best writers of our generation. 

Beautiful illustrations by Chris Arran

ent e r t a

HRIS

RRAN

Illustrator Chris Arran talks Pop Art, getting published and travelling the world looking for inspiration. kelly woolford/ kelly woolford

You can find these illustrations at www.chrisarran.com

When did you first become interested in illustration? I grew up on a very small island they call the Isle of Man, where I studied a two-year diploma in Art. I realised there that I had a love for illustration but back then, in the mid-1980s, there was only the option of studying fine art or graphic design. I love graphic design and use it a lot in my work but I didn’t want to narrow my skills, so I took a combined course of the two in Manchester. Who or what inspires your work? My work closely resembles that of ‘Pop Art’ in the late 1960s but I suppose if it had to be defined in a genre it would be filed under ‘collage paintings’. I take a lot of inspiration from fashion and the colour palettes they use - I love bright, happy colours. As for inspiring people, I love the work of David Hockney, Robert Rauschenberg and Peter Blake. I think what is most inspirational about Peter Blake for me is that, at the age of 70, he shows that age is no barrier. Most illustrators start off extremely

passionate but lose momentum as they get older but I’ve been quite lucky, like Sir Peter, that the passion for illustration has never left me. What techniques do you use to create your artwork? I like to make them three dimensional and I collect radios and badges, so these go into my artwork too. I live in a small town called Lewis near Brighton, which has loads of amazing little shops with antiques and collectables. I like to include graphic design and I use a lot of paint. Paint is the glue that holds everything together. When and where was your first piece of work published? It was while I was still at university studying my Masters, when I was commissioned to design the covers of a series of children’s books for Oxford University Press. That was before everything turned digital so everything was done by hand and it was extremely stressful, but it was brilliant to see my work actually published. I went to Thailand off the proceeds, so it was definitely

worth it. What message do you hope to send with your artwork? I guess if you had to sum it up in a sentence, it would be the message that ‘illustration can be really good fun’. I try not to take it too seriously, I love the idea of just chucking paint at a canvas and seeing what happens. There have been times when my three-year-old has defaced some of my artwork and I’ve left it alone, because I’ve actually quite liked what he’s done with it. I generally just try to spread positivity, use bright colours and have fun with my art. Chris’ greatest achievements to date include working for MTV and designing a whole christmas advertising campaign, but arguably his greatest triumph is maintaining his passion for illustration whilst juggling a part-time job and two young children. A selection of his work is currently available to view at the No Walls Gallery, Brighton, and can also be accessed via his blog: www.chrisarran.com 

ent e r t a

Illustration can be really good fun. I love the idea of just chucking paint at a canvas and seeing what happens

A week without...

Moaning When Lauren Sutton was given the task of not moaning for a week, she thought sheâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d fail within the first day. She kept a diary of how she got onâ&#x20AC;Ś

ent e r t a

his probably sounds like an easy week to most people: a whole week of being positive; no complaining or whining, just seven days of niceness. For someone like me whose glass isn’t so much half-empty as it is completely drained of any fluid whatsoever, this will prove to be a challenge. Moaning is probably one of my favourite pastimes in the whole world. I could find something to moan about on a holiday in Barbados, I’m that committed. So when I was set the task of stopping any sort of negativity for a week, I laughed at the mere idea of it. My housemates were in hysterics and my colleagues scoffed that I wouldn’t last a day, let alone a week. Normally, I would have moaned about their responses but this time it just gave me a determination to prove them all wrong. I mean, how hard can it really be? It’s only a week for crying out loud. Day one saw me wake up buzzing with positivity and I fully intended on being a happy, smiley person all day. I complimented the shoes of three different girls and I refused to let the cold ruin my mood. It might have been sub-zero temperatures outside but I had my Russian fluffy hat to keep me warm. I also had my scarf on ready to restrain my mouth in case it decided to loosen up and complain about the whole list of things that would irritate me throughout the day. On my second day of living in a moanfree zone, I spent the entire day in bed. I was actually extremely productive and got lots of work done but it meant my interaction with the human race was minimal so there was nobody to moan to. Unless I decided to complain to myself about the absolute tip that is my bedroom. I realised at this point that things were about to get a lot worse. I was only two days in and there were already inanimate objects lying around the house that drove me crazy. By day three, it became almost unbearable to keep my moaning views to myself. The problem is I’m always right. Or at least I think I am. So when I know that someone is wrong, it takes every inch of my willpower not to correct them. And of course I then want to moan about how wrong they are to someone else. I gradually

became quieter and more withdrawn to avoid getting myself into uncomfortable situations where temptation would prove to be too much. It was around then that I began to discover how much other people around me moan like all the time. They actually moan about people moaning. This made me feel very high and mighty as I sat there with a smug smile on my face, in my moan-free, positive mindset. At least that’s what I told myself as I fought the urge to start complaining about how much everybody else was moaning. There were several things that happened on that third day that made me want to scream with frustration and just vent all my negativity but of course I couldn’t. By the time I got home, I felt like I could just burst into tears with the sheer amount of moaning thoughts flying around my mind. How on earth was I ever going to complete another four days of this? I would go insane! I woke up the next day feeling a lot more positive. I focused my mind on the realisation that everybody loves a good moan and it was actually becoming quite entertaining to listen to them all complaining. It made me think I’m not actually that bad. I was also heading back to my mum’s for the night so I had something to look forward to, and I think that kept me feeling good for the day. Especially because she was going to do all my washing for me. Day five brought with it some severe weather and very cold toes. Normally, I would have spent the day whining about how ridiculous it was that the roads hadn’t been gritted but obviously my moaning ban prevented me from doing this so I had to suck it up. I wore two pairs of tights to prevent the frost bite from creeping in because I knew the urge to moan would

have got the better of me once I lost the feeling in my extremities. The drive back home proved to be my breaking point. I suffer from road-rage at the best of times but driving through a blizzard on roads that resembled ice rinks, surrounded by drivers who appeared to have taken lessons from Mr Bean just about pushed me over the edge. I let rip to myself about the poor standard of driving these days, the rubbish music on the radio and the fact that all of this was going to lead to me being late for a dinner date. I was in the car alone so I don’t think this technically counts as moaning because I was the only person who heard it. Day six found me watching sport on the TV. It meant I listened to the boyfriend moaning about how rubbish his team were rather than finding something to moan about myself. When we watched the Super Bowl later on, I got all excited and placed a couple of bets. When they both came in, I had nothing to moan about and went to bed a happier, richer woman. My final day of not moaning arrived and I could taste the freedom. By this point, I had come to understand that my life did not have to centre around moaning all the time. Yes, there are a million things wrong with this world but me complaining about them isn’t going to make them go away. It just means I sound grumpy all the time and that’s never fun. So from now on I am going to continue being moan-free and be positive as much as I can. But if I see you driving in the middle lane of the motorway at 45 miles an hour, you will not only feel my rage, but you’ll also be solely responsible for putting all my friends in a bad mood as I moan to them about how bad your driving is. You have been warned. 

I wanted to scream with frustration and vent all my negativity but of course I couldn’t. Moaning is a full time job for Lauren

lauren sutton/emma curran 45

The Summer Palace: Beijing

East meets West From Mao to Malls; the ancient delights of Beijing are definitely not to be missed.

ent e r t a

A section of the Great Wall: Beijing

Images: Rob Hewitt

ifferent countries have different connotations. Paris, for some, represents romance, whilst for others it represents fashion and glamour. Take a ten hour flight further afield and you reach Beijing, China. Modern Beijing is famous for its courtyard houses in tiny alleys (hutong) that have received minimal changes since the Qing dynasty in 1949. Once reserved as a summer retreat for the Imperial Court, and the private playground of the Empress Dowager Cixi (also nicknamed the Dragon Lady), the Summer Palace is now a year round tourist attraction for culture-seeking tourists. When entering the Summer Palace a sense of calm and enlightenment settles, this lets you admire the Kunming Lake, all with a backdrop of the Longevity Hill and the surrounding mountains. It is hard to imagine that this beautiful location was built for the sole use of the Chineseequivalent of the royal family. One of the must see attractions when visiting Beijing is the Great Wall. Stretching 6,200 miles over Northern China, visitors to the Great Wall will be breathless – from the spectacular views of the surrounding landscape as well as the arduous climb. Having recovered from the altitude, steep steps and precarious footing you are occasionally greeted with make shift stopping points where Western tourists show off their lack of fitness by clustering on the ground, catching their breath to continue the hike up one of China’s best kept monuments. During the summer months, the sky is clear and, for miles, all that can be seen will be the rolling hills and rivers of the area. In the winter months a fog bank obscures most of the view. Hundreds of thousands of labourers were conscripted over the centuries to extend and repair the Great Wall, and many of them lie buried in its ruins. It is hard to imagine the scale and coordination it must have taken.

The Forbidden City, also known as the Imperial Palace, was once home to 24 consecutive rulers of China during the Ming and Qing dynasties. Today it’s a museum where tourists can marvel at the imperial architecture, artefacts and private collections of the emperors of old. Entering through the main entrance in the south (Tiananmen Gate, of the Gate of Heavenly Peace) visitors are greeting by Chairman Mao’s portrait which faces Tiananmen Square. Once inside, visitors can once again see just how intricate the Chinese style of building is. The exquisite detailing on the Meridian Gate has withstood the test of time, with the original golden designs decorating the gate. Flanked by rock statues of dragons, the symbol of heaven, whose purpose is to guard the entrance to the Forbidden City, the sheer size of the building makes Westminster Abbey seem tiny in comparison. During the winter months the cold can quickly become unbearable, so thankfully there are toilets with radiators and a coffee shop half way through the city. The Ming Tombs, final resting place of 16 Ming Emperors, are filled with elaborate courtyards and pavilions which bear some resemblance to those in the Forbidden City. It is not just the old royalty who are buried here. Take for example, the tomb of Emperor Yongle. Yongle is buried with the Empress, and revolving around this central tomb are 16 other vaults, each housing one of the Emperors concubines. For the younger generations it could be seen as gloomy and marginally boring compared to some of the other tourist attractions Beijing has to offer. For the bargain hunter the Silk Market is a definite “must see to be understood”. With the six floors of market stalls offering genuine fake designer brands such as Gucci, Prada and D&G, it is a shopping lover’s paradise. Haggling is essential and requires utmost determination to get the lowest

price possible for that elusive bargain. Unaccustomed to the grabbing and blunt approach of the market sellers, tourists quickly become lost in the seemingly never-ending walkways, but quickly get to grips with dodging the more confrontational sellers. Time flies when you are having fun, and you won’t notice the hours flying past as you haggle with the eager to please sellers. From handbags to purses, men’s shirts to “designer” shoes, there is something for everyone to find within the confines of the market. The general rule of thumb is deduct 80% of the price they are asking for, and slowly come to an agreement on how much you are willing to pay. Remember, if you look uninterested and walk away, you are guaranteed to hear the seller screaming lower and lower prices after you, just to get your custom. Meals are the focal point of Beijing family life. It provides the family with a chance to come together, and talk about their days. It may come as a shock to Western tourists who are used to eating at any time, restaurants and cafes have strict hours of when they serve meals. It will usually be breakfast between 7am-9am, lunch 11.30am-2pm and dinner 5pm-8pm. The “family style” of eating means helping yourself to any dish that is set on the table, which can be overwhelming if you’re used to ordering a singular dish, but you soon get past this contrasting custom and enjoy the food. Chinese food in Beijing is different in flavour, more bold than delicate, more basic than subtle, but is usually delicious. Beijing is a city of wonders, packed full of history and entertainment. The flight may be exhausting, but upon arrival you can see why China is becoming one of the most affluent countries in the world. The locals are welcoming, and the culture is different to anything you may have experienced before, but the memories gained will stay with you for the rest of your life. 

rob hewitt/rob hewitt

HIT THE ROAD JACK

With miles of ice-capped peaks, breath-taking views and cascading aqua-blue rivers, a journey through Canadaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful Rocky Mountains is a road trip like no other.

ent e r t a

here’s something about the word ‘road-trip’ which brings all kinds of images to mind. A cramped car, stopoffs in dodgy service stations and depressing country music droning over the radio. But with a stunning emerald green lake around every turn and wafts of pine-fresh air coming through the car window, a trip through the Canadian Rockies defies all of the above. Here, amongst the 1450 miles of snowy peaks and between the snaking blue streams; tranquillity sets the pace. Running from western Alberta into the northernmost part of British Columbia, the peaks run through Banff and Jasper National Park. Both parks have been conserving the mountains, forestry and lakes for up to 125 years, enabling each visitor to explore the simply stunning wilderness and encounter its many hidden treasures. Banff National Park Banff National Park was founded in 1885 and is situated on the warm natural springs that flow beneath Sulphur Mountain. The town of Banff itself boasts a beautiful main street lined with wooden-lodge styled shops and restaurants.

But between the steaks in the cosy grill bars, be sure to visit Banff Upper Hot Springs. Located just outside the town, the springs are perched at tree-top level on the edge of Sulphur Mountain. At a glance they may look like a typical outdoor public pool (probably complete with the pasty white, oversized American tourist in a speedo) but the deliciously warm waters and amazing mountainous backdrop make it a beautifully relaxing dip. Naturally though, many of the park’s best parts lie outside the town. If you want to experience the true Canadian wilderness there are hiking trails of various levels, the most popular being the Johnston Canyon trail. Situated a 30 minute drive from Banff town, the walk takes you down the very edges of the canyon and alongside the most spectacular waterfalls. Close enough to feel the chilling spray on your face and the rush of the icy waters beside you; this is an amazing way to experience the Rockies falls. Lake Louise The renowned Lake Louise lays 58km northwest of Banff and is an absolute must see along the Rockies Route. The unnaturally aqua green waters and towering

walls of sheer grey rock around it make this lake like a precious, emerald gem imbedded in mountainous surround. Paddle through the waters in a hired canoe, or enjoy them from a distance on the Lake Louise Gondola which cruises high above the spectacular scene. At the top, enjoy an ambitious hike or a leisurely stroll and take in what is claimed to be the best scenery in the Rockies. However, being such a reputable area, Lake Louise can become crowded with tourists from mid-July to mid-August. There’s nothing like dozens of RVs and countless parka-clad tourists to ruin the peace and tranquillity which brochures claim for the area, so travel off season to make the most of this emerald wonder. As stunning as those green waters are, a more breath-taking scene is found a short drive northwest of the Lake Louise area. Here, lies a lake like no other; the infamous Bow Lake. Travel books will mention it as a suggested pit stop along the road, but few will succeed in describing the sheer beauty of this mesmerising feature. The waters of this lake, stretching out just left of the highway, are The stunning Jasper Lake

Naomi Wilson/Micaela Carroll 49

so unbelievably clear that they create most fascinating mirrored effect. It is as though someone has laid a sheet of glass beneath an already perfect landscape. Every peak, every rock face, every pine tree is reflected back in its double. Only a small red hut on the distant tree-lined shore breaks the scene, but even if is mirrored flawlessly. As you sit and absorb it, Bow Lake becomes more like an optical illusion than a simple mass of water and so it is a definite pinnacle in the Canadian Rocky experience. Columbia Icefields Parkway In a mountain range as big as the Rockies, you expect to find ice, but the Columbia Icefields take ‘ice’ to a new level. The fields span over 230 km between Lake Louise and Jasper and include the Crowfoot and Athabasca Glacier - two huge masses of frozen water clinging to their mountain

Roaring falls in the Johnston Canyon, Banff

Strolling alongside the mighty Columbia Icefields

slopes, looking like a spill of thick cream on a grey, stony carpet. At the Athabasca Icefields centre, take the chance to walk up to the edge of the glacier which spreads across the valley between to peaks. Being alongside such a vast mass of ice, the refreshing chill in the air creates the most tangible sense of peace and calm. If you have a bit more time, and a spare dollar or two, the ‘Columbia Icefield Glacier Adventure’ tours will take you right up on the frozen mass by ice-truck, and give you the chance to walk on the surface of the Athabasca Glacier itself. Jasper National Park Jasper offers equally stunning scenery, but with fewer tourists it is like a peaceful haven compared to the RV bustle of Banff. It is the largest national park in the Rockies and so within it there is only more beauty to see. As you drive, emerald green rivers snake

The mesmerising mirrored scene at bow lake

ent e r t a

Sheer peaks, richy pines and icy waters - the epitome of the Rockies between the rocky slopes on either side of the car, while elk wander slowly and graze alongside the quieter roads. Similar to Banff, Jasper town maintains a quaint feel, with wooden lodge shops and local crafts stores, chalet style hotels and secluded hire cabins. However again, the park’s best places lie beyond the town site. Maligne Lake is a one hour drive out of Jasper but definitely worth the trip. This iconic lake is surrounded by panoramic glacier clad mountains, and is where you will find the world famous Spirit Island- a small mound of rocks topped with a several thin, elegant pine

trees. The island creates an unusual mystical feel to the scene, giving it the sense of spirituality its name promises. Visitors can take a boat trip across the glassy waters, canoe, kayak or fish from the lake’s rocky shore. But finding a place to sit, breathe in the crisp, alpine air and bask in the tangible peacefulness of the treetopped Spirit Island is the ideal way to enjoy Maligne. While there are many places in the Rockies to relax and admire, no trip to a place of such raging water systems would be complete without some form of adventure. Jasper offers some of the best whitewater rafting experiences, from easy, gentle

tours to the Class 5 rapids for the more experienced. Prices and river routes will vary with the different rafting companies, most of which will be based in Jasper town centre. With the roar of rushing water and icy white foam crashing over the boat sides, it is the most exhilarating way to experience the mountain waters. Though cold and wet you don’t care, because the river beneath you, the thick forest around you and the sheer snowy peaks towering above you – the true picture of Canadian Rockies - won’t cease to amaze. 

Budget Your Trip

Spend: Tunnel Mountain Resort, Banff, £54/ night Pocahontus Cabing, Jasper, £52/night Save: Samesun Backpackers Hostel, Banff, £19/night HI- Jasper Hostel, Jasper, £14/night

Walking is free: Though guided tours on ice-fields or boat cruises on lakes are great, almost all of them are overpriced for the naïve tourist. Avoid these and instead explore each attraction on foot- you’ll still see all the amazing aspects of the Canadian wilderness and you’ll save yourself an easy $50.

Here are a few tips on how to budget your trip depending on your ideal price range.

Flight prices

Images: Naomi Wilson

Flights to Calgary from London Heathrow: approx. £909/person Flights from Vancouver to London Heathrow: approx. £942/person

Accommodation

Splurge: Stoneridge Mountain Resort, Banff, £89/night The Fairmount Jasper Park Lodge, Jasper, £111/night

How to Save the Cents

Shop around: Both Banff and Jasper and other towns along the way will offer many of the same activities, from rafting and canoeing to horse riding. Each will claim to provide the best experiences for the best prices, but be sure to compare each place to get a good deal.

Picnic: Jasper and Banff host some amazing restaurants, grills and bars, but popping to a local convenience store for some picnic worthy goods is definitely a cheaper lunch. Also, most rented cabins and hostels will have cooking facilities, so eat in to cut costs.

5191

s t e k c a j

noihsaF s e v r a s e h t o l c dre

sse

53. Spring/ Summer: The round up 57. Alexander Wang 58. Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bankruptcy 60. Dazzling eye make-up 64. Burlesque 68. Racism within the beauty industry

Image: Rebecca Libby

scarve

SPRING/SUMMER

fas h i o n

2012 TREND ROUND UP

It’s cold outside, but don’t let that stop you from getting excited about the spring/summer trends emerging on the high street. From bold prints to polished metallics, next season is set to add some fun to your wardrobe.

ne way to keep our minds off this miserable weather is to fantasise about the sun, sea and sand. Several designers submerged into the ocean for their spring/summer collections, resulting in a trend that is both tropical and enchanting. Many collections featured shimmering scales, aquatic prints, mermaid dresses, coral-like details and layered chiffon tulles. (also want the next sentence as pull quote please) Chanel’s Paris fashion show screamed “under the sea” with oversized white coral, shells and starfish dominating around the runway. Seen at: Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Versace and Givenchy. The aquatic trend dominated all major fashion shows and now it is doing the same on the high street with Topshop, Dorothy Perkins and Miss Selfridge creating the high tide look. The aquatic tones are this season’s hottest colours. Keep a look out for the foil textured pieces in Topshop, they’re a must have for this summer. The pink V-neck maxi dress from Miss Selfridge would be ideal for a summer wedding. It seems that designers took a trip to an old school ice cream parlour to get inspiration for spring/summer’s colour palette. The runways have been filled with subtle tones of lilac, yellow and of course blue. Some collections were all about pale and pretty hues and colour combination of peach trousers, lavender tank, mint green jackets and court shoes in the palest of pastels. Seen at: Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Alexander McQueen, Valentino, 3.1 Phillip Lim, Victoria Beckham, Prada, Moschino, Christopher Kane and Richard Nicholl, The overly feminine and girly trend has arrived on the high street leaving fashion lovers screaming for more. Topshop, New Look, ASOS, Dorothy Perkins and Miss Selfridge have a wide range of sherbet colours from mint green to coral pink. The

easiest way to include this trend into your daily outfit is with accessories; this purple wrapped collar necklace from ASOS would look great with neutral colours such as grey, black and cream. If not lighten up your style with pastel coloured footwear; we love this pink patent lace up shoe from Topshop. Flapper girls flocked the catwalks this season with designers taking a step back in time with Great Gatsby inspired collections. Black and gold-fringed dresses set the tone with beading and dropped waists and models accessorised with cloche hats. Pastel coloured silk outfits and pale print skirts and dresses were a hit on and off the runway. Seen at: Gucci, Cavalli, Etro, Emporio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs. The Great Gatsby remake has not yet hit the big screen but it has arrived at your local high street stores. Dorothy Perkins, River Island, Topshop, Marks & Spencer, Oasis and Wallis all channel the Gatsby look with sequins and sparkle for a night out on the town. Look out for dresses with waistlines on the hip, fringing and slim silhouettes. To complete this sophisticated and classic trend, accessorise with costume jewelry and bow cap hats. Spring/summer fashion is all about the silhouette and the peplum- a little flair added to jackets, shirts, skirts and dresses. The peplum adds a new dimension to skirts and dresses with layered lace, pretty frills and ruffles. This trend will give the illusion of smaller hips and stomach, perfect for hiding those lumps and bumps you hate! On the runways, the trend varied in shapes and sizes, the bigger the peplum the better! Seen at: Jason Wu, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Preen, Vera Wang, Alexander McQueen, Dior, Zac Posen and Celine. The versatile trend is a must have for your wardrobe and it has arrived on the high street. Check out H&M, Zara, River Island, Topshop, Miss Selfridge, Dorothy

Perkins and New Look. Zara has simpler and straightforward peplums just like this black peplum skirt for £49.99. To complete the silhouette look, just add a patterned top or blouse, some chic heels and bold accessories. The great thing about this feminine trend is that it is suitable for smart evening or office wear and casual daywear, this purple dress from Miss Selfridge would suit any occasion in your diary. For men it’s all about adding colour and sophistication to their spring/summer wardrobe. This season is full of colour blocking, neutral colours, blazers and prints. Burberry Prorsum’s collection showcased an earthy and neutral colour palette often mixed together with a caramel blazer, white print shirt, chocolate brown tailored trousers and brown/tan leather creepers. Gucci played it safe with the narrow sporty jackets and aviators infused with Hampton preppy gentleman. The chunky knit sweaters with tailored shorts are ideal for a summer’s evening. It seems bright colours and bold prints are very popular among menswear retailers including Topman, H&M, Zara and River Island. H&M is the ‘go to’ place for sophisticated men this season, their wide range of suits are great value for money and is the best way for men to get a designer look for less. To simply add colour to your style, H&M’s contrast-sole and bright boat shoes are the perfect accessories for this spring/summer. River Island has the best collection of bold prints and bright colour among the high street market. The bright blue, mustard, coral tailored trousers will add a splash of colour to your outfits, but add some fun too. The brightly designed graphic tees are great mixed with a neutral colour short. The key trends are now available in shops, so get yourself to your nearest high street and spend, spend, spend. Happy shopping! 

harriet wheeler/hayley fewster 53

aquatic

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

ON THE HIGH STREET...

AVAILABLE FROM TOPSHOP

fas h i o n

PASTEL

ON THE HIGH STREET... MISS SELFRIDGE

BY LOUIS VUITTON

ASOS

TOPSHOP

ON THE HIGH STREET... OASIS

TOPSHOP DOROTHY PERKINS

GREAT GATSBY BY RALPH LAUREN

PEPLUM BY JASON WU

ON THE HIGH STREET...

h&m MISS SELFRIDGE

MENSWEAR

GUCCI 56

NEW LOOK

BURBERRY

fas h i o n

Alexander Wang A

lexander Wang is one of the world’s hottest designers of the moment. So hot in fact that his latest Fall 2012 collection at New York fashion week was hailed as a triumph by many fashion critics, aided by the surprise runway appearance from veteran model Giselle Bundchen. Tight leather, tweed and even a playful dose of fishnet featured heavily in his designs, which stayed true to the structured yet casual style staple that has won Wang countless awards over the five short years he has been a bona fide fashion designer. It’s not difficult to see why fashion bibles, such as Harper’s Bazaar, have praised him as “New York’s go-to-guy for downtown cool”. Wang knows what women want from their clothes and he gives it to them. He is the king of the nonchalant, off-duty model look that is adored by everyone from Alice Dellal and Erin Wasson, to Mary-Kate Olsen and Nicole Richie. “Anyone can get dressed up and glamorous, but it is how people dress on their days off that are the most intriguing,” Wang’s brand mission statement explains. The California-born designer was not handed success on a plate though. Despite

being only 28-years-old, he has strived to get his designs noticed ever since he began sketching the dresses he saw in his mother’s fashion magazines at the tender age of two. 13 years later Wang held his first fashion show at his brother’s wedding, where he showed off his designs for the bride’s dress to his family and their guests. This young start in fashion design led him to move to New York after a summer spent studying in London - a time that Wang insists strongly influenced his later collections. But, he dropped out of his sophomore year at the coveted Parsons Design School, instead opting for internships with Teen Vogue, Marc Jacobs and Derek Lam. “I realised it was more beneficial to me to be doing my internship at Marc Jacobs than it was to be sat in a classroom,” Wang explained. The bold move clearly paid off and Wang launched his first ready-to-wear womenswear collection in 2007. The luxurious knitwear he designed exuded a nonchalant, tough-girl attitude that the fashion-pack went wild for. The collection was sold in over 200 stores and boutiques worldwide.

Only one year later Wang scooped the coveted CDFA/Vogue Fashion Fund prize, awarding him $200,000 to expand the label alongside a year of mentoring from industry expert and top designer Diane von Furstenberg, whom he had previously declined a job offer from stating that “it wasn’t the right time”. It was a huge step for such a young designer, but one that carried little surprise. Fashion critics said that Wang had “nailed the idea of extreme ready-to-wear”, and hailed the fact that the pieces were both wearable and affordable for the general public. This prize led to the introduction of a sought-after accessories collection in the same year, later followed by his diffusion line T by Alexander Wang, a New York shop and more recently his critically acclaimed menswear collection. But where is Wang headed now? To many it would seem that his dreams of expanding and establishing his brand to Ralph Lauren’s extremely high standard looks as though it is a simple case of ‘when’ rather than ‘if ’. Not at all bad for a design school drop-out. 

Alexander Wang’s A/W 2012 Fall collection

gemma clapp/nicole cook 57

s e o h s

f o r i a p e n O ? r a f o o t

In the past five years the number of young women going bankrupt has risen by 10%. The Hype investigates what’s to blame.

o buy or not to buy, we’ve all been there. It’s a week before pay day and you’ve spotted the most gorgeous pair of Louboutins in the sale, you’re already in your overdraft so what’s another £300? After all, at that price they won’t be there next week. Women love to shop, it’s in our nature – but where do you draw the line? Recent figures revealed that the number of women sinking into insolvency is at an all-time high, increasing by a staggering 175 a day, so just what is it pushing these

women to buy what they can’t afford? New research conducted by accountancy firm Wilkins Kennedy has revealed that 55% of bankruptcies amongst the under 24s last year were women, compared to just 48% five years ago. Annie White is a 23-year-old student from Southampton, who found herself in thousands of pounds worth of debt as her shopping trips spiralled out of control. “I was a student so my bank account came with an overdraft; I kept this under

control and thought I could do the same with a credit card.” Annie explains. However she began buying herself things such as make-up and iPods and as the APR on her credit card was very high things took a turn for the worse, Annie was just eighteen at the time and admits she was naïve to the amount of interest she would be paying back. Whilst she managed the first few payments, with the credit increasing it became difficult for her to keep up. Annie believes it was too easy to get

fas h i o n Women dream to dress and shop like the cast from Sex and the City

herself a credit card and now understands that store cards use tactics to keep you spending, she explains how her initial limit of £100 on a particular store card was increased to £250 as she was ‘good’ at making payments. The realisation of her debts really hit Annie after her first year of University, she had no income and no student loan until next term, but as the bank letters kept coming she hit an all-time low. Charges for non-payments on both the overdraft and the credit cards kept being thrown at her, leaving her crying every day. Like many other women in her situation it took Annie almost four years to realise and admit to herself the full extent of her debt, hiding it from her friends, family and boyfriend. She was in denial and embarrassed, thinking that no-one would understand. The lack of help available for women is another element to consider in women not dealing with their debts, experts claim debt advice on the whole is tailored more for men than women. “I had two jobs over the summer but as the hours weren’t the same every week they couldn’t do a lot to help me,” she explains. Feeling completely lost, Annie visited a debt advisor within the University who helped her manage her repayments and contact her creditors. During this time Annie was lucky enough to receive a claim payment. “I had been in an accident and was suing a shop for negligence, the process took three years and when I received the cheque for £1700 I was advised which debts to pay off and how much,” Annie says. Though Annie was extremely fortunate to receive the money and clear her debts slightly, the debt still looms over her; she is keeping the debts under control until she finished University and

can pay them off. “I am grateful for that windfall, if the money didn’t come along I probably wouldn’t be at University and might have had to bankrupt myself at the age of 22,” she explains. Insolvency Practitioner, Stephanie Stern believes Annie is like a lot of other young women her age. “They have the attitude of ignoring things and not worrying about them until a much later date,” she explains. “Unfortunately when you’re a student, bank accounts give out overdrafts and credit cards, it’s tough not to accept when money is tight.” Whilst Stephanie doesn’t believe debt advice is tailored for men, she does think women need a different type of advice, a kind that is ‘more sympathetic and private.’ Stephanie believes there are many reasons for the rise in women’s

a student overdraft of up to £1500 and a student credit card on offer too, it’s not hard to see how so many young women are racking up the debts. Even women in full-time work can be partial to a quick and easy accessible loan a week before pay day. Many websites are using dangerous tactics to target young women by offering money in minutes. The idea? It’s a week before pay day and you need some quick cash for the weekend, it seems easy and more socially acceptable than a bank loan. The catch? The incredibly high APR. According to the UK Insolvency helpline, three quarters of the women it recommends to go bankrupt are single and women aged 25-30 are the age group most likely to get into debt. Though not all women fall into debt simply because they are irresponsible with money. There are women who have just been unlucky - they could be taking time off work to have children, struggling to find work after University, poor health, being made redundant or going through a divorce - almost anything can create a money problem during the recession. Social factors are to be considered too. There is a continual rise in single parenting and divorce rates which lead to an impact on finances. Divorce obviously holds an emotional element too, which can leave women spending to make themselves feel better. We can only hope that the number of celebrities’, such as Sarah Ferguson and LaToya Jackson, debt problems on the rise will help to raise awareness amongst young women. It shouldn’t feel like a taboo to admit to someone that you are in trouble – that’s the first step to getting help. We need these debt advice lines to keep reaching out and keep helping women. Maybe we’ll think twice about those Louboutins next time. 

“Some women try to maintain a life which is completely unaffordable for real women. They love to buy into the Carrie Bradshaw lifestyle.” bankruptcies, as the cost of living is always on the rise whilst women are still earning less than men. “Some women try to maintain a lifestyle which is completely unaffordable for a real woman, they love to buy new things and buy into the Carrie Bradshaw lifestyle,” Stephanie says. “Some women I meet are yo-yo spenders, they overspend, then panic and worry, pay it off and run the cycle again.” Whilst it is hard to place the blame on one lone reason, experts believe the celebrity culture and ease of obtaining loans are mostly liable for women’s debts rocketing. The ease of obtaining this ‘free money’ is a theme which frequently occurs with women, especially students. Starting University can be a nerve-racking time, worrying about bills and loans, but with

nicole cook/nicole cook 59

Eye Make

create beautiful smokey eyes with alvaro gracia 60

f a s hBEAUTY i o n

IT IS IMPORTANT WHEN CREATING A SMOKY EYE TO USE PRODUCTS THAT WILL LAST ALL EVENING AND WON’T CREASE. Bobbi Brown cream eye shadow in Galaxy (£18) is the perfect base for a smoky eye, this beautiful shimmery grey cream shadow can be built up to create intense eye make up in one easy step. Use a brightening powder under the eye, such as that of Bare Minerals Well Rested Eye Brightener (£17), to lift and stop any dark shadow from dropping and smudging. Alvaro garcia/emma curran 61 WRITER/DESIGNER/PHOTOGRAPHER XX

Images: Alvaro Garcia

WHEN CREATING STRONG SMOKEY EYES it is essential that the lips stay nude and your skin looks flawless. Use Nars Chelsea Girls (£18), a natural shade lip-gloss in a pot, which will hydrate the lips but guarantee to stay on for hours. Invest in a long lasting foundation such as Mac Studio Fix (£24) to create flawless, photo- ready skin for all those photos you’ll be snapped in.

fas h i o n

Alvaro uses Volume Glamour Bourjois Mascara (ÂŁ4) to create long lasting, false lash effect lashes, this frames the eyes and creates definition. Keep the cheeks as natural as the lips by using Lancome Blush Subtil (ÂŁ27) softly applied to the apple of the checks to define and shape the face. 63

Striking a pose

fas h i o n

THE BIG REVEAL

Award-winning photographer Tigz Rice is taking the photography world by storm. With her own studio and an impressive portfolio which boasts the likes of burlesque star Missy Fatale, the 24-yearold Londoner certainly means business. But how did she go from desiring a career in medicine to becoming a photographer for some of the biggest burlesque festivals in the world? Gemma Clapp talks to Tigz to find out

“

I had my heart set on becoming a neurosurgeon. Now I’m a burlesque photographer!” laughs Tigz. “Neither burlesque nor photography were part of my original career plan, but it’s funny how one day you wake up and find your calling.” Despite her childhood medical dreams, Tigz turned her back on that career path after developing a strong interest in the arts at Kingsbury Amateur Operatics Society, deciding instead to study Illustration at Westminster University. During her studies, Tigz was introduced to the world of burlesque, and hasn’t looked back since. “I had always had an interest in burlesque, but for many years I didn’t know what it was called. My university tutor at Westminster set a project entitled ‘Camp, Slag and Drag’ and that’s when I was properly introduced to the burlesque industry. I took a research trip to the Erotica Festival, where I saw Dita Von Teese - she was performing one of her signature acts, and was the major tipping point for my love of burlesque,” she says. The project was a catalyst for Tigz’s final major project – Wonderland, a self-published Alice In Wonderland meets burlesque inspired graphic novel for adults, which has since sold internationally. However, despite graduating with a First in Illustration in 2009, Tigz struggled to find a full-time job to keep paying her bills thanks largely to the peak of the recession and high unemployment figures. “I had been working part-time as a makeup artist throughout university and soon after finishing my degree the company announced it was going out of business and we were all to be made redundant. Although I managed

Gemma Clapp/Marcus Faint 65

“Some days I’m working in the studio with classic burlesque performers with Swarovski-encrusted corsets; other days I’m working with axe-throwing striptease artists in Edwardian theatres”

Shouting her lungs off

fas h i o n

Images: Tigz Rice

Bold and beautiful

to find another job pretty quickly, it was only a temporary, nine-month tutoring position. It was then I decided on a freelance career,” Tigz explains. Originally, Tigz Rice Studios was destined to be an illustration studio, but new interests in burlesque and photography after her final major project at university were taking over and suddenly she found herself being commissioned to take burlesque-inspired photos on a regular basis. The illustration work took a backseat and eventually in May 2010 Tigz began to establish a reputation as a burlesque photographer, photographing shows for friends in the industry. Everything was falling into place, and a career was born. Since then, Tigz Rice Studios has become a full-time job for Tigz, whose main bulk of income from the studio comes from the burlesque industry itself. Tigz is often commissioned by burlesque and cabaret performers to take photos for their portfolios, as well as being a photographer for corporate events and show nights. “I work closely with a number of cabaret venues on their promotional materials and show flyers, as well as quite a few of the European Burlesque Festivals, including London, Barcelona, Paris and Italy. There is also a big overlap with the vintage and vintage reproduction industry, so I often provide lookbooks for niche fashion labels too,” she says. “The most amazing part of my job is the

variety – some days I’m working in the studio with classic burlesque performers with Swarovski encrusted corsets and white feather fans; other days I’m working with axe-throwing striptease artists in Edwardian theatres. I’ve been fortunate enough to work with some of the most talented people in the industry at incredible venues all over the world. The travelling is a pretty good perk too. But giving up weekends was pretty hard at first as Friday, Saturday and Sunday are my busiest studio days.” Since Tigz’s burlesque photography career has taken off, she has received awards for her work, including numerous Silver awards at the Society of Wedding and Portrait Photographers. She was also awarded a membership to the Licentiate of International Fashion and Glamour Photography earlier this year, a feat which Tigz says has helped shape her career. During her short, but action-packed time as a burlesque photographer, Tigz has seen many changes in the industry, including an ever-increasing global fan base. There have been many answers as to why this is, perhaps a natural development of the dance industry or an influence from countries like France, where burlesque has a much deeper history. But for Tigz, it is the major designers and brands who are to blame – or rather, thank. “One of the most significant reasons why burlesque has gained momentum in Britain is a direct result of some fantastic companies,

designers and individuals really pushing to change the perception of beauty. In 2004 Dove launched its ‘Campaign For Real Beauty and Self Esteem Fund’, which peaked around 2006 with the advert and YouTube viral highlighting the incredible amount of retouching and post production that went into turning a ‘real’ woman into a cover girl,” explains Tigz. This seemed to be the starting point for a lot of changes in the fashion and beauty industry and in 2010 Karl Lagerfeld dressed one of the most internationally renowned burlesque performers in the world, Dirty Martini, in plus-size couture. Shortly after, British designer Mark Fast used size 12-14 models in London Fashion Week – a move that sparked massive controversy but potentially changed the fashion industry forever. Soon a number of high-profile designers brought ‘real women’ on the catwalk and into their shoots, embracing the natural shape of today’s women and showing us that yes, curves are sexy. “The change in attitude towards ‘real’ women has empowered many to get up on stage regardless of shape, size or colour and celebrate their body within the safe confines of a female-majority audience. I recently took up burlesque lessons myself and since joining I’ve noticed a significant change in how I feel about my body. I’m not nervous at all about being undressed on stage; I’m more worried about forgetting a move!” Tigz laughs. 

y t u a e b e is th industry

eauty brands play on the insecurities of ethnic women. They use them to their advantage and to make a profit. In 2007 moisturiser brand, Ponds, offered women in India and Asia skin lightening cream. Their series of adverts showed a woman finally getting the man of her dreams after using the said cream and lightening her skin. The name of the moisturiser is ‘White Beauty’. It is interesting to see how Ponds use adverts like this in India, but won’t show it in the U.K. or the United States. They count on us not being outraged that our fellow females across the globe are being targeted in this way. Ponds are an example of an unacceptable and blatantly offensive way of selling a product.

Skincare royalty Dove received respect and admiration within industry for their ‘Real Beauty’ campaign, which showed women of all size, age and colour and encouraged them to embrace their beauty no matter how they looked. Well done Dove. However, they got a beauty bashing earlier this year when viewers felt their advert for a body wash showed the model with a lighter skin tone after claiming to have used the product. Bad Dove. Cosmetics have evolved over time. Nowadays we have foundations that can reduce shine, moisturise, lift and renew skin. Blusher adapts to colour and tone when placed on your cheeks and nail varnishes change shade at the swipe of a

brush. Product advancements like these have transformed how we get glammed up on a Saturday night and admittedly made life a little bit easier. How is it then that we are lagging behind with basic ethnic shades, let alone anything else? White companies began to increase their presence in the black cosmetic industry in the 1930s and 1940s, when the depression made it much harder for black cosmetic companies to compete. In more recent years, white companies have bought out existing African American cosmetic companies and kept the same product lines and names. This was their attempt to pass as blackowned and appeal to another huge sector of consumers, consequently raising their

fas h i o n Is this the beginning of a new trend? Estee Lauder advertise products aimed at all ethnic skin tones

racist?

business profiles. With the civil rights movement in the United States, black individuals were seen as consumers for the first time and it had considerable influence over beauty and standards of appearance. Despite this, companies still singled the race out by branding products with the idea ‘black is beautiful’. People wanted to feel equal and the same, not different - which is exactly what happened. This is important today as over 40% of women of colour are buying skincare and cosmetics, a number that is steadily increasing each year. It really is quite ironic that research has shown that women with ethnic skin types actually spend a larger percentage of their disposable income on

beauty products than other women. The market is undoubtedly there, so why are these women being ignored and pawned off with make-up fit for a fancy dress box? Brands that do offer a larger shade range like Bobbi Brown and MAC are great but they are a little pricey. It’s nice to treat yourself and splurge on the lipstick you’ve been eyeing up all month or the hair product your barnet is just crying out for, but you have to re-evaluate when almost all of your disposable income is being spent on purchasing such items. Regular women are not lucky like celebrities such as Halle Berry, Beyonce and Rhianna. They don’t have thousands of pounds to spend on makeup artists who can spend hours perfecting the exact blend

for their skin tone. The problem is that the message beauty companies are trying to get out has not caught up with reality yet. Neither have techniques and product awareness. They seem to like the idea of meeting the consumer need but fail to deliver. In March 2011, Estee Lauder featured three models of different ethnicities on their campaign “Every Woman Can Be Beautiful” for their new skin care range, Idealist Skintone Illuminator (the product claimed to address ethnic skin tone issues like blotchiness, redness, discolouration and acne scars). Is this another high end brand at the luxury end of the market? Tick. Is it affordable for all mere make-up mortals? Big fat no. Ethnic women should be able to have a pick ‘n’ mix cosmetic bag just like white women. There is also an element of defeat takes lots of effort to keep constantly looking. Nobody wants to traipse around shopping centres for hours on end struggling to find something essential. Maybelline claim to be a multi-racial cosmetics company that appeal globally to all women. They are not. Granted, the United States do have a slightly larger variety of shades, but the U.K. range is embarrassingly limited. However, has Superdrug make-up, Baby Sleek, have thirty shades of foundation, catering for a multitude of skin tones. Although this warrants a little jump of joy, the actual quality of make-up itself is poor and not a patch on its high street brand sisters Rimmel and Revlon. Why is it that a lower end, moderately priced line can accommodate these women but huge players in the industry cannot? Brands that have the funding and resources to invest in this type of product development simply aren’t. Why are women settling for second best and still forking out a fortune? Would it be acceptable for individuals with wheat allergies to be charged double, triple or even quadruple the price for a loaf of bread compared to someone without the allergy? No. It can be intimidating and nerve wracking approaching a beauty counter in a department store. The stench of the hard sell is present as soon as you enter. You just need to glance at an item and suddenly an orange-faced teenager is pouncing on you within seconds, already spending her commission before you’ve uttered a word. I personally have worked for a well-known chain chemist and found the women on the counters, to be stressed-out due to targets and bonuses. Some even admit that they try and push an unsuitable product onto a customer just to avoid the awkward 4pm area manager

micaela carroll/micaela carroll 69

Ponds, one of many cosmetic brands claiming to whiten skin

Beauty is the only mass industry left to catch up. As global companies, they have an ethical duty to represent the diverse aspects of beauty from all over the world. phone call asking why they havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t met their target. As a general sales assistant, I often had women of different ethnicities struggling to find cosmetics to suit their skin tone, particularly foundation. What alarmed me most was the willingness of those women to accept what was in front of them (sometimes shades that would have matched white skin perfectly) even though it was completely unsuitable, their reason being there was simply no other alternative for them. Certain ethnicities, particularly Asian women, would claim they want to look paler, deeming it the more desirable look. It was a constant battle to try and convince them to pick the correct shade. But who can blame them? Beauty images in the media, specifically advertisements and editorial content, are dominated by white women. If and when other races are rarely

featured, they seem more of a novelty rather than the norm and there is always a huge media storm surrounding it. Why does it have to be made into such a big deal? Women of colour have the right to be featured without fuss and controversy. There is also no need for separate magazines for women of different races just so they have a beauty bible that fulfills their requirements when it comes to skin care, hair care and make-up. Magazines are a source of information, just like other media. Should we start producing alternative newspapers for different races too? Editorial beauty content really isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t that different to the mainstream glossies. Whilst flicking through the most recent issue of bi-monthly magazine Black Beauty, the inclusion of race specific hair products was present, but they were also sat alongside other products that get a good airing in all other publications. The hair tutorial

pages even had women of all ethnicities, including Caucasian. Skincare and cosmetics were practically identical with brands and products that could be used by any woman. Why is it that a magazine specifically for black women can provide both, yet mainstream magazines cannot? How many publications can say they take into consideration all races when putting together their pages? Beauty is the only mass industry left to catch up. Global companies, have an ethical duty to represent the diverse aspects of beauty from all over the world. They want to appeal to all types of women, so make products that meet their needs and market them in a way that is not patronising or derogatory. Whilst white women may want to see models that they can relate to, so do black and Asian women. They too crave individuals who are reflective of their culture. Is that not what they deserve? ď&#x20AC;ź

3 4 5

next Issue

going for gold: jessica ennis on her plans for olympic glory

paralympic success: fighting prejudice 2012: london's legacy

Coming soon

Fancy a career as a

magazine journalist?

come and join the hype team @ southampton solent university, ba(hons) magazine journalism and feature writing contact rachel.lamb@solent.ac.uk facebook.com/pages/The-Hype-Magazine/220168288050111 @hype_mag