Voyager by SOLO ■ Spring 2018 ENG by SOLO

ENJOY THE PRIVILEGES WHERE BUSINESS MEETS BENEFITS

To become a member and start receiving benefits of Turkish Airlines Corporate Club, please visit corporateclub.thy.com

CONTENT

ISTANBUL

SOLO mogzaurisaTvis

ISTANBUL

DISTRICTS / SIGHTSEEINGS MUSEUMS / HOTELS

RESTAURANTS / BARS

MARKETS / SHOPPING

FROM THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE TO TURKEY

CITY AS A PALIMPSEST

ISTANBUL

ISTANBUL- CONSTANTINOPLE - BYZANTIUM

GOLD, PORCELAIN AND WOOL TULIPS

THE WRITER THAT IS VERY (NOT) LOVED

ALLA TURCA

FROM MEHTERAN TO MOZART AND ON

THE DANCE OF ARABIAN NIGHTS 76 SORROW OF THE HAPPINESS HOUSE

THE SECRETS OF SULTAN’S CUISINE 82 OR THE BENEFIT OF A LONG-HANDLED SPOON

GASTRONOMY

86 /

DISHES / KEBAP / TEA / BREAKFAST DRINKS / WINE

TRAVEL TO HISTORIC TAO-KLARJETI

CITIES

TRABZON / ANKARA / CAPPADOCIA / KONYA PAMUKKALE / ANTALYA / FETHIYE / DATÇA BODRUM / EPHESUS / IZMIR / ALAÇATI / BOZCAADA 4 VOYAGER 10/2018

100 /

127

E D ITOR'S NOTE

A voyage to Turkey is like living in different eras and countries as the ancient world is still flourishing there. The struggles and beginnings of many peoples and cultures hide here but you have to find them on your own. Every region and every city has its own character and unique style. Istanbul is the only trans-continental city in the world, located across two continents: Europe and Asia. The old name of Constantinople was changed over the years to Istanbul. It lost the title of capital city of Turkey as early as 1923. Istanbul was a throne city for the Ottoman Empire, 10 Roman and 82 Byzantine emperors, and the residence of 30 Ottoman sultans. Its 8,500-year-old history is adorned with unprecedented greatness. On first impressions, you get the feeling that there are too many cars, innumerable people, constant noise and pandemic chaos in Istanbul; however, gradually, as if following an indefinable pattern, everything finds its own place and you understand that you will never forget Istanbul’s horizon stretching over the historical peninsula and the main reason for its attractiveness – the Bosporus. More than 14 million people live in Istanbul – this is official statistical data only. The city unofficially houses 17 million inhabitants. Some 12 million tourists visit this incredible city every year. Thus, you will get struck in a traffic jam no matter what direction you take. If you’re visiting Istanbul for the first time, get ready for all kinds of emotions – this city will amaze you, fill you with controversy, make you fall in love and exhaust you. The more you visit it, the more there is left to see, and the desire to re-discover the city and your longing for Istanbul will never end. This is why Voyager by SOLO begins its journey to Turkey by visiting Istanbul – the biggest megapolis in the country. We will tell you how to find your way through the historical labyrinths and the city’s slanted, zigzagging streets; where to stay; which sites to see; how to partake of very taste of Ottoman dish (if you are a gourmand, this city will become your gastronomical Mecca); how to relax in a Turkish hammam; or even, what you need to know to successfully shop in the country’s oldest and biggest bazaar.

Obviously, we couldn’t include all of Istanbul’s sights in one edition – we have simply tried to bring the flavor and charm of the city to you. We’ve already mentioned the authentic character of Turkish cities and regions. Every single one of them is unique and different. Take Bursa, the first capital of the Ottoman Empire; Izmir, known for its freedom; and Bodrum, which rivals it in terms of its freedom, and the old Halicarnassus, where Herodotus wrote “The Histories”. Konya is a major city where the Georgian queen (Gürcü Hatun) of the Sultanate of Rum and the granddaughter of King Tamar built the amazingly beautiful green dome on the grave of Jalal Eddine, the founder of the Dervish order. Historic Tao-Klarjeti, now the site of the modern Turkish towns of Artvin, Ardahan and Erzurum, is especially sensitive and impressive. Two of the seven ancient wonders of the world are located on Turkish land: the temple of Artemis in Ephesus and the Halicarnassus Mausoleum in Bodrum. The Christian book of Revelation mentions all seven temples that are located in Turkey: Ephesus, Smyrna, Pergamon, Thyateira, Philadelphia and Laodicea. It is as if the soul of old idols, free cities and intellectual Greece is present here. Cappadocia is the most mysterious and amazing region - the land of beautiful horses and underground cities where you can travel through labyrinthine caves and fly in a hot air balloon in the same day. If you are planning to take a summer vacation, visit picturesque Alacati on the Cesme peninsula, on the Aegean Sea; or Bozcaada, formerly Tenedhos, a small island by the Dardanelles; then visit the turquoise Fethiye lagoon and ride the “descendants” of old wooden ships on a cruise. And finally, visit Datça: as the ancient Greeks tell us, the beautiful rock formations and turquoise water were created by Zeus himself. Here he placed the people that he loved most, so that every one of them could live a long life… Become a SOLO traveler, follow our advice and visit Turkey to travel through time. Tea Skhirieli Editor-in-Chief

6 VOYAGER 10/2018

FURNITURE LIGHTING KITCHEN PARQUET SANITARY WARE CERAMIC TILES DOOR CURTAINS CARPETS WALLCOVERING

years

DESIGN AVENUE GEORGIA, TBILISI, S.KANDELAKI ST.â&#x201E;&#x2013;15 TEL: 0322 68 08 08 | WWW.DESIGNAVENUE.GE | INFO@DESIGNAVENUE.GE

10, 2018

Editor-in-Chief Tea Skhirieli Designer Nino Kavelashvili Illustrations by Maia Sumabdze Translation by Lika Barabadze Photo -

Shutterstock Dreamstime

Authors: Aka Morchiladze Lasha Bughadze Salome Dadunashvili Nino Daraseli Bidzina Baratashvili Kakha Tolordava Tamar Alpenidze Giorgi Maisuradze Nikoloz Chkhaidze Marina Kipshidze

Irine Giviashvili Ciuka Kipshidze Irina Bagauri Nanuka Chavchavadze Zaza Chiladze Administrative Assitant Giorgi Vasadze Advertisement Manager Nazi Goshadze

Project Manager / SOLO DIRECTOR Eka Duchidze Project Consultant Nino Gegeshidze SOLO Brand Manager Keti Nikoleishvili

Publisher: LTD SOLO Phone.: +995 32 2 44 44 00

ISSN: 2346-8130

Advertising: +995 599 330 364 / Published material owned by LTD SOLO. Written Consent of the Company necessary for use of any material published in this magazine.

From From From

2950₾₾ 2950 2950₾

LOBBY LOBBY An ideal place for business meetings An with ideal aplace for business meetings dedicated concierge service. with a dedicated concierge service. LOBBY AREA AnSECURE ideal place for business meetings SECURE with a dedicated Open parkAREA with concierge secure service. Open park points. with secure access access points.AREA SECURE FITNESS Open park withCENTRE secure FITNESS All daypoints. gymCENTRE with access All experienced day gym withtrainers. experienced FITNESStrainers. CENTRE POOL All day gym with POOL Olympic-size and kids experienced trainers. Olympic-size kids swimmingand pools. swimming pools. POOL Olympic-size and kids swimming pools.

KINDERGARTEN KINDERGARTEN A colorful environment and caring teachers A colorful environment andof caring for the tiniest residents Tbilisiteachers Gardens. for the tiniest residents of Tbilisi Gardens. KINDERGARTEN HALL and caring teachers A EVENT colorful environment EVENT HALL placeresidents for noisy of parties forPerfect the tiniest Tbilisiand Gardens. Perfect for noisy parties and huge place events. huge events. EVENT HALL LANDSCAPING Perfect place for noisy parties and LANDSCAPING 21 000 m2 of green area huge events. 21 000 m2 of green area to relax. to relax. LANDSCAPING 21 000 m2 of green area to relax.

IMAGINE IMAGINE IMAGINE

First New York Skyscraper in Tbilisi First New York Skyscraper in Tbilisi First New York Skyscraper in Tbilisi

INTHE THECENTER CENTEROF OFTHE THECITY CITY IN All in one place All one place IN inTHE CENTER OF THE CITY All in one place

TBILISI

SOLO LOUNGE ABASHIDZE 70, Abashidze Str.

SOLO LOUNGE MTASTMINDA 11, Chitadze Str.

TBILISI

SOLO LOUNGE PALIASHVILI 23, Paliashvili Str.

TBILISI

SOLO LOUNGE TSINTSADZE 12, Tsintsadze Str.

TBILISI

SOLO LOUNGE Chavchavadze 29, Chavchavadze Ave.

TBILISI

SOLO LOUNGE KAZBEGI 24G Kazbegi Ave.

TBILISI

SOLO LOUNGE TSERETELI 73 Tsereteli Ave.

TBILISI

SOLO LOUNGE KAZBEGI 25, Kazbegi Ave.

TBILISI

SOLO LOUNGE GLDANI 8, Nozadze Str.

KUTAISI

TELAVI

SOLO LOUNGE KUTAISI 5, Q. Tamar Str.

SOLO LOUNGE Telavi 3, Cholokashvili Str.

BATUMI

SOLO LOUNGE Batumi 22, Rustaveli Ave.

www.solo.ge

Tel.: +995 32 2 44 44 00

İSTANBUL SALOME DADUNASHVILI Enjoying its reflection in the mirror-clear Bosporus, distrusting its own beauty, the city lies in the sun, half closing its eyes like a cat. Just like the hundreds of purring creatures that roam its streets, this city has nine lives and many names: Stambol, Stanbol, Istanbul, Constantinople… only the god of cats knows how many lives Istanbul has used up playing with fate and how many are still left. Constantine was a dangerous man, a wrathful emperor. No one could touch corpses for a week for fear of him. However, his namesake city was never afraid of him. The city had other concerns. Constantine’s cherished city, the jewel of the eastern empire, was doomed from the beginning. Like a swaying trapeze artist on a rope stretched under the dome of the sky, the border between east and west was fragile. One mistaken movement, an upset balance, and its soul would forever leave the body that was hurled to the ground. Built upon seven hills like Rome, Constantinople was stuck between two seas and two worlds, just like a child in a candy store. It made the right choice – it “took both”. It took both and was right. Its gravity attracted full sails towards the Bosporus. Flavors of strange countries circulated in bazaar stalls. Hundreds of languages were heard from thousands of sheds, dukhans and markets. The Venetian quarter bloomed, traders got rich, too rich, until one day they all woke up in a Constantinople prison.

Another city on water was encompassed by sadness. The Venice lagoon was not used to such storms, nor the city of the winged lion to such disrespect. European minds were still blinded by the light of exploding tulips in the Constantinople gardens encircled by a fortress when the weight of living on the crossroads became heavier. Armadas that carried crosses dropped anchor in the blue of Bosporus. Venetians came to get back what was theirs. The crusaders headed towards Palestine, obeying the will of a 92-year-old blind old man, and approached the Constantinople fortress. One couldn’t become the Doge of Venice easily. Enrico Dandolo was strong and stubborn. He could not forgive the disregard of Venice’s Constantinople. Venetians robbed the city. Bronze horses from Constantinople’s ancient hippodrome were moved to the façade of the San Marco cathedral (their adventure did not end there – perhaps no qaudriga has ever travelled so much, east and west, as these bronze stallions, but that is a story of an entirely different era and emperor). Byzantine enamel miniatures were placed on San Marco’s altar and treasury, while delicate marble friezes adorned the cathedral walls. Tetrarchy figures cut from porphyry are located on the corner of the cathedral. They look like orphan children, hugging each other till this day. One of them left his legs in homeland, Constantinople, the city that does not exist anymore.

12 VOYAGER 10/2018

D I S T R I C T S / İ S TA N B U L

Some of Venice was left in Constantinople: the 41st Doge died during the campaign and found eternal rest in the Ayasofya temple gallery. But there is nothing eternal in Constantinople, since new rulers establish new laws. The crescent moon overshadowed the cross. Constantinople’s time was running out, Istanbul’s time was coming. The Turks gave the Doge’s bones to dogs, his empty graveyard remained a sad memory, along with the others, in this city of sad memories. This city is like baklava dough, with the remains of three great cultures – Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman - mixed together. St. Sophia’s temple dome, blue mosque minarets and the needle of the Egyptian obelisk pierce the Istanbul sky at the same time. Emperor Constantine still reigns on the bas relief on the base of the obelisk, surrounded by vassals, enjoying the greatness of his city. Although the bronze horses of the hippodrome have been placed in another temple’s chariot, Constantinople still rushed forward in the everlasting circle of the spiral of life. Constantinople’s soul rests upon the heads of two medusas, under the Sultanahmet mosque, in the dome of a cistern, supported by 36 columns brought from every corner of the empire. Pigeons coo in the firmament, peacefully over the Bosporus. There is a long time left until the ninth life.

GALATA, KARAKÖY, TOPHANE Moving and Bohemian

Karaköy is a trendy new place. It was previously known as Galataport and was an old warehouse space. Today, this fashionable district is full of restau-

SULTANAHMET, EMINÖNÜ, BEYAZIT, SIRKECI Historical Peninsula

Istanbul’s historic center is its main charm. Each step on this peninsula will bring you to amazing buildings: here stands the blue mosque, the gorgeous Hagia Sofia, the severe and impressive Topkapi palace, and an enormous open air hippodrome. At first glance, this place is a purely tourist space, but just a few blocks away, the streets live their usual lives. From the Grand Bazaar to the Spice Bazaar, you will have plenty of opportunities to drink Ottoman coffee or grab a kebab in the noisy streets; try rahat lokum or real baklava. rants such as Karaköy Lokanatsı and Gaspar, cafes, eateries and bars that are located between the Kılıç Ali Paşa Square and the first Ottoman bank street, Bankalar Caddesi. The main square, which you will find on the way to the historic peninsu-

la, houses eclectic structures that used to hold European enterprises. Now these buildings have been turned into fashionable hotels and restaurants and host travelers and local artists. The district is full of shops and galleries, and sailors crowd its port. Before you go to the Galata Tower via the Camondo stairs, relax in the design stores and craft studios. The square, with its seven-century Genoese tower, is surrounded by tea houses. Artists and designers have moved to this district in the past decade; the walls are painted with graffiti and art galleries spring out at you with every footstep.

13 VOYAGER 10/2018

Empire era when Constantinople, the Eastern Paris, united European-Asian cultures in the XIX century. The most prestigious old lyceum in Turkey is located in the small square of Galatasaray. Baroque, Rococo, Classism, Art Nouveau replace one another in this kilometer-long street. The Flower Passage (Cicek Pasaji) is an expression of the European spirit of Istanbul, where you can enjoy cozy restaurants.

PERA, TÜNEL, ASMALI, MESCIT, ŞIŞHANE Mescıt, Şışhane

Creative and Breathtaking Nightlife The first luxurious hotels of Constantinople were built here - such as Pera Palas and Grand Hotel de Londres, where Orient Express passengers stopped. Pera is famous for its museums and art institutes, restaurants, live music halls and night clubs.

GALATASARAY, ÇUKURCUMA Antiquity and Bohemia

Istiklal Caddesi (Freedom Avenue) is Turkey’s most populous pedestrian street from the Galata tower to Taksim Square. Every day, 3 million people walk here. Istanbul’s intellectuals and local Europeans met here in the Ottoman

NIŞANTAŞI, TEŞVIKIYE, MAÇKA, HARBIYE High-class Residential Area and Luxurious Shopping

Nişantaşı is a high-class fashionable shopping district and has been considered a prestigious home residence since the beginning of the XX century. This district stretches from Taksim to Harbiye. In the middle of the 19th century, Abdulmejid I expanded Nişantaşı. The Sultan built Teşvikiye’s police station and its namesake square in Neoclassic and Neoborocco styles and encouraged Istanbul dwellers to settle in this district. The Turkish word Teşvikiye means “encouragement”. Today, Nisantaşı is undoubtedly the most elite area in Istanbul. Here you can find exclusive brand shops, European-style cafes, pubs, restaurants and nightclubs for the Istanbul elite. Abdi İpekçi is Turkey’s most expensive shopping center and a space for high-quality brands.

The Historical Tram

It is easy to get lost in Çukurcuma on the way to the Bosporus: there are many local designer boutiques, antique and vintage stores and record shops. Over the last few years, many cafes have opened up there, creating a beautiful, unique atmosphere in the district.

Istanbul’s nostalgic trams are divided into two different historical networks. One of them is in the European part: Taksim-Tünel Nostalgia Tramway, and the second is in the Asian part – Kadıköy-Moda Nostalgia Tramway. A large network of trams ran through both parts of Istanbul; they were closed in 1966. However, the tram routes have been gradually recovered since 1990. Recently, on December 30, the tram line stretching along İstiklal Street was renewed. It connects the Tünel and Taksim squares, including the road to the historic buildings that make this route more enjoyable. The Taksim-Tünel route costs 2.6 TRY.

The tram leaves every 20 minutes and runs from 7 am to 10:45 pm. The Asian line runs from 7 am-9 pm. 14 VOYAGER 10/2018

D I S T R I C T S / İ S TA N B U L

the areas seen from the water, you will be impressed by the first bridge over the Bosporus built at Ortaköy. A recently restored marine museum is a new landmark for Beşiktaş.

CIHANGIR, TAKSIM The creative place and center of the city

Gezi Park has been located in the middle of Taksim’s square since 1943. Taksim is the site where the legendary Istiklal and Cumhuriyet avenues begin. This is where the best hotels and famous sights are. Cihangir is within walking distance. This district has a different style and energy from Taksim; it is a popular residence place. Bohemian intellectuals live here in high-rise housing, located on the hill, enjoying beautiful views of the Bosporus. ISTANBUL HAS 39 DISTRICTS, EACH WITH A POPULATION RANGING FROM 14,000 TO 750,000 INHABITANTS. PROBABLY EVERYONE WHO IS PLANNING TO TRAVEL TO ISTANBUL HAS HEARD THE NAMES: TAKSIM, SULTANAHMET, NIŞANTAŞI, AND OTHERS, BUT AS SOON AS THEY LOOK ON THE MAP, TRAVELERS PANIC - THERE ARE NO SUCH DISTRICTS. YOU NEED TO KNOW THAT SULTANAHMET IS PART OF THE LARGER FATIH DISTRICT, WHICH COVERS THE MAIN PORTION OF THE HISTORIC PENINSULA, AND TAKSIM IS A SHORT SECTION OF THE BEYOĞLU DISTRICT, AS WELL AS ORTAKÖY.

BEŞIKTAŞ, ORTAKÖY, AKARETLER Historical Bosporus

Walk down the Maçka Akaretler and look at the on the terraces; they were designed for the servants Dolmabahçe Palace.

hill to houses initially of the

Beşiktaş is located at the bottom of the Akaretler – an urban center of transport routes and marine transportation that you can use to take a tour on the Bosporus. Apart from

ARNAVUTKÖY, KURUÇEŞME, BEBEK These three coastal area residential districts, ports, old wooden houses and famous fish markets are located on the foothills of Etiler. Glamorous Bebek is still the main travel destination.

ULUS, ETILER Exclusive Housing, Restaurants and Shopping

Ortaköy or the “middle village” is situated by the bridge of Bosporus. This former fishing village is now known for architectural masterpieces such as the Esma Sultan Palace and the double minaret on the Ortaköy square.

The former seaside resort has been distinguished by its expensive

Ulus and Etiler are the hills that house the richest inhabitants of the city. Nispetiye Caddesi is a center of social activity with its restaurants and cafes. This is where the biggest traffic jams in Istanbul take place. The Zorlu Center has become a new key area of the district and surrounding areas where you will find the largest concert hall of Istanbul, expensive brands and high-class dwellings. 15 VOYAGER 10/2018

apartments and small ports since the 1950s. Fashionable restaurants and quiet cafes are located here. Lucca, Mangerie and Bebek Kahvesi are the most popular places for locals. Nowadays, young professionals from rich families settle down in this neighborhood, and others spend weekends on the beach to escape the city center’s buzz.

KADIKÖY, MODA, ÜSKÜDAR, SUADIYE

tract students and young people.

The Most Revived District on the Asian Side

Suadiye is a residence for rich Turkish families, and Princes’ Islands are seen from the elegant yali. A yali is a recreation zone where locals rest and have picnics on the lawn. The huge Bağdat Caddesi shopping street is in Kadıköy, featuring highclass boutiques and other shops.

Kadıköy’s cheerful atmosphere awaits you: traditional meyhans (Turkish taverns) and culinary street diners created by Ottoman influences such as Kanaat Lokantası and Çiya are footsteps away from Istanbul’s

FENER, BALAT, EYÜP

HAYDARPASA GARi

Golden Horn

Historic Haydaphasa railway station is one of the most beautiful buildings in Istanbul. It was built in 1909 by the “Anatolia Railway” company as the western terminal of the Baghdad-Hejaz line.

These three historic districts are located beyond the walls of the old city. Eyüp is the Istanbul Mecca for its Muslim guests, due to Eyüp Sultan Mosque and tomb. Fener is located in the center of the Golden Horn. It used to be and still is a Greek district. Historical wooden houses and Orthodox churches are situated in the streets here.

The Constantinople Patriarchate of the Byzantine and Ottoman eras is here as well. The name of this place is a Turkish version of the Greek “phanarion” which means lighthouse. A lighthouse used to stand in Fener in the Byzantine period, hence the name of the district.

oldest dessert, chocolate and Turkish snack creators, Baylan and Hacı Bekir. In the last decade, the Kadıköy nightlife has transformed from simple and alternative to hipster: bars and fashionable pubs at-

After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, this district became the home of the Greeks living in the city, while Balat, located on the west bank of the Golden Horn, is a traditional Jewish district.

The Haydaphasa railway station is among the most symbolic structures of Istanbul and the whole of Turkey. German architects Otto Ritter and Helmut Conu built it in 1906-1908. mushrooms, blackberries and other berries. Visit Eta Bal, where only honey is sold. Turks love their honey no less than wine.

KADIKÖY SALI PAZARI

- Kadıköy Salı Pazarı – the

things you’ll find on the stalls here include roasted coffee and fragrant tea, freshly caught fish and many kinds of cheese, seasonal wild garlic and thousands of

16 VOYAGER 10/2018

THREE BOOTHS THAT ARE A MUST-SEE: 1. SPICY SAUSAGES ARE FEATURED IN GOZDE SAKUTERI; 2. YALI CIFTLIGI SELLS TURKISH CHEESE; 3. MELODI CIKOLATA HAS BEEN KNOWN FOR THE BEST CHOCOLATE EVER SINCE 1957.

D I S T R I C T S / İ S TA N B U L

This is the cat which Muhammad kept close even when he prayed. As legend tells us, once Mohammed wanted to put on a mantle and go to pray when he saw Muezza sleeping on his garment. Muhammad did not wake up his beloved pet, but took a knife and cut the mantle’s sleeve off so as not to disturb him. The Islamic sources states that “loving cats is a part of faith.”

CATSTANTINOPLE CATS CITY

Locals feed the cats well and provide them with comfortable places to sleep. If the cat living in their yard becomes ill, they immediately take the animal to a veterinarian. Thus, you won’t see a sick or miserable cat in the city. All of them are well-respected, healthy, and a little bit cheeky. THE SULTANS OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE BELIEVED THAT CATS CLEANSED THE MOST IMPORTANT PARTS OF THE CITY FROM PARASITES AND RATS. NOW CATS LIVE IN THE CITY AS IF THEY ARE THE TRUE MASTERS OF ISTANBUL. IN GENERAL, HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS OF CATS LIVE IN ISTANBUL’S STREETS AND THEIR RIGHTS IN THIS CITY ARE INFINITE. CONFIDENT CATS SEEM TO BE THE DOMINANT RULERS OF THE AREA - SITTING ON CARPETS, SLEEPING ON SPECIAL MATS AND NIBBLING DELICACIES.

Istanbul’s famous garden is called Nişantaşı Sanat Parkı, though this heavenly place is known as the Kedi Parkı or the Cat Park. The local municipality has built special houses for cats that provide shelter for plenty of animals in the winter months - in the cold weather, they live comfortably and warmly. THE TURKISH ANGORA (ANKARA KEDISI) IS ONE OF THE OLDEST NATURAL VARIETIES OF CATS, WHICH HAS A MEDIUM-SIZED SNOW-WHITE FUR AND BLUE, GREEN OR HONEY-COLORED EYES. SOMETIMES CATS’ EYES ARE DIFFERENT COLORS ALTHOUGH THESE CATS ARE USUALLY DEAF. ANGORA CATS ARE DISTINGUISHED BY THEIR INTELLIGENCE, CURIOSITY, STRONG CHARACTER AND HUNTING ABILITIES.

Istanbul dwellers really do love cats because they were the favorite animals of the prophet Mohammed. According to Islamic legend, a brave cat once saved the holy prophet from a poisonous snake. The so-called temple cats are “a separate species”. They behave as if they consider themselves to be no less valuable than the oldest monuments of architecture - for example, presidents greet the cats when they visit the Ayasofia Cathedral. It is said that among the cats living here, some are the descendants of Muezza, the Prophet Muhammad’s favorite pet.

ISTANBUL FORESTS Yıldız Park, located between Ortaköy and Beşiktaş has one of Istanbul’s largest forests. A lot of festivities were held here during the Ottoman era. It’s a place full of centuries-old huge trees and is a great place to relax.

C O MME N T

Emirgan is in the European part of the city. The 17thcentury forest, which used to be owned by various royal families, hosts an annual tulip festival. Locals also enjoy Fethi Paşa, Mihrabad and Çubuklu Hıdiv İsmail Paşa forests.

According to the Turkish saying, for a sweet conversation, you should bring something sweet with you - it is customary to express your gratitude to your host by bringing baklava pastry, which can be bought in two of the most popular pastry shops in Turkey Güllüğlu and Hacı Bekir. You can express your gratitude (teşekkürler) by saying merci too - Turks often use this term. If hosts make you dinner, thank them by saying eline sağlık, which means “bless their hands”; sağol is also used to express gratitude. In olden times, when a guest stepped over the threshold, his hands were sprinkled with rose water. Taking your shoes off is traditional when you enter a home. You can say hello in three different ways in the morning, afternoon or evening, although a simple merhaba is acceptable at any time of day. Women meet each other with a kiss on both cheeks; men who are already familiar with each other with a handshake and a kiss on both cheeks. Strangers just shake hands.

17 VOYAGER 10/2018

AYASOFYA St. Sophia’s Cathedral

FOR MORE THAN A THOUSAND YEARS, PRIOR TO THE CONSTRUCTION OF ST. PETER’S CATHEDRAL IN ROME, AYASOFYA WAS THE LARGEST CHURCH IN THE CHRISTIAN WORLD (HEIGHT - 55.6M, DOME DIAMETER- 31 M).

The first temple was built by the Byzantine Emperor Constantine in 324-337. In 532, after three fires occurred at different times, Emperor Justinian I ordered a new cathedral to be built to symbolize the Christian Empire. He hired the best architects of the era - Isidore of Miletus and Anthemius of Tralles. 10,000 workers worked on the construction site daily. The finest marble and ancient Roman temple columns, gold, silver and ivory were brought from different cities. Three years’ worth of the empire’s income was spent on the construction. The temple was consecrated on December 27, 537. Ayasofya’s grandiose

appearance was a delight to viewers; legends states that the divine forces were involved in its construction and the central gate was made from the remains of Noah’s ark. “It touches the sky,” wrote Procopius of Caesarea. 525 clergymen used the most precious ritual vessels in the St. Sophia Cathedral. The last Christian service in St. Sofia Cathedral was held on May 28, 1453. The next day, Constantinople fell. Ayasofya was robbed. On May 30th, Mehmed II entered the area. The cathedral was rebuilt as a mosque. Soon Mehmed II built four minarets, and in the XVI century installed arch counterforts. In 1847, Ayasofya was restored and in 1935, turned into a museum on Ataturk’s orders. THE LONG, QUADRANGULAR (75, 6X68, 4 M) CATHEDRAL WITH A GIGANTIC, THREE-NAVE DOME IS A MASTERPIECE OF ARCHITECTURAL THOUGHT.

40 majestic arches, the same amount of arch windows, light belts, spherical triangles, porphyry and malachite columns, rows under domes, niches, the magnificent interior space, iconic mosaic masterpieces, storied compositions and ornaments - many elements have spread from Ayasofya to world architecture. One of the distinguished mosaics features 16 prophets and 14 educators of the Old Testament, including the image of John Chrysostom (878). Commonly known as the “crying column”, it 18 VOYAGER 10/2018

has an eternally damp surface. According to legend, these are the tears of the Mother of God and touching it cures sick people. Ticket price: 40 TRY Open: in winter – 9 am- 5 pm (last visitor is admitted at 4 pm), in summer – 9 am-7 pm (last visitor – 6 pm). Hagia Sophia Square, Sultanahmet, Fatih

SIGHTSEEINGS / İ S TA N B U L

SULTAN AHMET CAMII The Blue Mosque

This unique building was built in 16091616 on the orders of Sultan Ahmet I. Precious stone and marble were used in its construction. The marble niche which shows the direction of Mecca (Mihrab) is cut from a single piece of marble. It contains a unique black stone brought from Mecca. The Blue Mosque unites the best achievements of the Byzantine and Ottoman architectural styles. Here engineering design genius and decoration are combined; this is why the Turks named the mosque’s architect, Sedefkar Mehmed Agha, “the Jeweler”. The building is decorated with whiteand-blue painted ceramic shapes so that the structure is perceived as blue. Consequently, it was called the Blue Mosque.

THE BLUE MOSQUE IS UNIQUE SINCE IT IS ADORNED NOT ONLY WITH FOUR BUT SIX MINARETS.

Floral ornaments are depicted on the tiles, among them 50 variations of tulip alone. The wall that Muslims face to pray is adorned with 260-piece stained glass windows. This is the work of the best Venetian masters.

SÜLEYMANIYE CAMII

bolic. For example, the four minarets indicate the personality of Suleiman - he was the fourth Sultan living in Istanbul; the ten balconies indicate his tenth succession in the dynasty. The magnificent stained glass is the main beauty of the interior. Suleiman, his wife Roxelana, his daughter Mihrimah and two other Ottoman sultans are buried in the mausoleum of the mosque yard. Open: 9 am-5:30 pm, except Friday. Closed for prayer times; entry is free.

Suleiman’s Mosque

Süleymaniye Mah., Prof. Sıddık Sami Onar cad. 1

The real masterpiece of the architect Mimar Sinan - Süleymaniye is considered to be the most beautiful mosque of Istanbul and the best of example of Turkish architecture. The building is extremely concise and thanks to its perfect forms, its dimensions do not overwhelm the viewer. Each element of the complex is sym19 VOYAGER 10/2018

SULTAN AHMET I ORDERED THE MOSQUE TO BE DECORATED WITH 210,000 TILES MADE IN IZNIK CITY. HE ISSUED A SPECIAL DECREE THAT PROHIBITED IZNIK SHOPS FROM COMPLETING OTHER ORDERS AT THE TIME.

The mosque is open from 8:30 am -11.30 am; 1 pm-2.30 pm; 3:.30 pm4:45 pm; Friday – 1:30 pm. Entry is free. ANYONE CAN ATTEND PRAYERS (YOU DO NOT HAVE TO BE A MUSLIM), BUT PHOTOS AND VIDEO RECORDINGS ARE PROHIBITED.

Sultan Ahmet Mahallesi, Atmeydanı Cd. No:7, 34122 Fatih MOSQUE RULES AND REGULATIONS:

women should wear a head covering when in the mosque. Guests will be provided with a headdress at the entrance, free of charge. Place the fabric on the head, so that it descends on the face evenly and rightly on both sides. Then place one side of the head covering on the neck and drag it backwards to cover your shoulders (you cannot enter with bare shoulders). There is no need to hide the face – the main purpose of the headdress is to cover the hair. Men should definitely wear pants that cover the knees; short pants or shorts above the knees are not allowed for men. Shoes: Before entering the mosque, take your shoes off and place them in a polyethylene bag that is free of charge. Everyone should follow these rules.

The “happiness gate” leads to the emperor’s harem, which included the emperor’s private bed chamber and 400 additional rooms. Apart from his family members and maidservants, no one was allowed to enter it. The queen mother’s chambers and baths are located here as well. Sultans spent a lot of time in the secret chambers and in their apartments (outside of the harem). Pages lived here too - favorite boys who studied calligraphy, art and music.

TOPKAPI SARAYI

Ahmed III’s unique library, mosque and portrait gallery is located in the third yard while the fourth yard contains the mosque, circumcision pavilion, and wardrobe chambers. 25 sultans lived in Topkapi over 500 years. Abdulmejid I left it in 1854. In 1923, on Ataturk’s orders, Topkapi became a museum.

This XV-century structure was the Ottoman Empire’s main palace for 400 years; the Prophet Muhammad’s sword is kept here. Topkapi Palace covers 700 000 sq.m. It was built on the orders of Mehmed II, and the harem was added later.

Open: Every day, except Tuesday; in winter – 9 am- 4:45 pm, in summer 9 am- 6:45 pm. Ticket price: 40 TRY; Harem section - 25 TRY; Saint Irene Church - 20 TRY Cankurtaran Mh., 34122 Fatih

The palace has four yards (parks), magnificent gardens, terraces on the Bosporus, beautiful gates, the St. Irene church from the old palace and fountains. The collection of porcelain, with rare X-XIII-century exhibits, totals 10,000 pieces. The imperial throne stands out among the many historical relics. It is located in the greeting hall for the guests, ambassadors, and visitors.

Quran quotations and Ottoman coats of arms are embedded on the imperial gate (Bâb Hümâyûn) in the southern part of the palace. The treasury buildings and the “executor’s fountain” (cellat cesmesi) are located past the “welcome gate” (Babü’s-selâm). A hospital, bakeries and kitchens are located beyond the middle of the gate. The palace houses stables, barracks, weaponry and the Sultan’s Council.

KIZ KULESI The virgin tower is located on the small island of Bosporus in the Asian part of the city. According to legend, a sultan built the tower for his favorite daughter in order to save her from her death that had been prophesized, but there was a snake in a basket of fruit presented by her father. Since 1453, the building served defensive purposes and was then used as a lighthouse in the Marmara Sea. In 1720, it was burnt 20 VOYAGER 10/2018

and Ibrahim-pasha rebuilt it from stone. In 1829, during the cholera outbreak, the tower had a function of an isolator. For hundred years since 1857, it was a lighthouse and then a military communications center. Small ships leave the Üsküdar port every 15 minutes headed towards the virgin tower. The museum and restaurant are open every day, from 9 am to 7 pm. Ticket price: 20 TRY Salacak Mahallesi, Üsküdar Salacak Mevkii

SIGHTSEEINGS / İ S TA N B U L

YEREBATAN SARNICI

GALATA KULESI The Galata Fortress is one of the oldest monuments of Istanbul. Its height (61 m) is impressive due to the eponymous hill where it is located. You can see Galata from any place in Istanbul. The current building was built by the Genoese in XIV. It used to be called “the tower of the Christ” and was built to broaden the colony of Genoa in Constantinople. For centuries, it was used as a watch-tower or fire tower. In 1633, a brave inventor tried to fly from it on artificial wings.

The basilica cistern (Greek water reservoir) is located in the vicinity of Ayasophia; it is a magnificent underground palace. The ceiling rests on 336 pillars taken from antique churches. The construction of the reservoir lasted for more than two centuries and ended in 532. This basilica kept drinking water supplies coming from the mouth of the aqueduct, which could be used in the event of a drought or siege. Most of the columns are from the remains of antique temples so they feature different types of marble and processing methods. It is not clear where these statues were brought from, and what ancient structures they used to decorate.

Open every day: in winter - 9 am -5:30 pm; in the summer - - 9 am -6:30 pm. Ticket price: 20 TRY

Open: every day, 9 am -9 pm

Alemdar Mh., Yerebatan Cd. 1/3, Fatih

Bereketzade Mh., Galata Kulesi, Beyoğlu

DOLMABAHÇE SARAYI The great palace of Dolmabahçe was built in the middle of the 19th century on the orders of Sultan Abdulmejid I. Six sultans lived there from 1856-1924. After 1924, President Ataturk used it for special events as well as his summer residency; this is where he died. All the clocks in the palace show 9:05 am – the time of his death. The palace extends over 45,000 sq.m. The complex includes 285 rooms, 46 halls, 6 hamams, and 68 bathrooms and is the largest in Turkey. Baroque, Rococo and Neoclassicism combine with traditional Ottoman architecture. Selamlik is part of the palace designated for men where sultans pondered state affairs. The palace story is told in the first hall (Medhal). Here you will

SOME COLUMNS REST ON THE HEAD OF THE GORGON MEDUSA (ONE LOOKS DOWN WHILE THE OTHER LOOKS ASIDE, SO THAT THOSE WHO LOOK AT THE MONSTER WON’T FEAR TURNING INTO STONE).

find a wonderful 60-arm chandelier. The exhibition hall houses an impressive collection of crystal, porcelain and precious metals. The second floor has the most luxurious hall (the waiting room for the sultan’s honorable guests), the red hall (with a huge, 90 m² Persian carpet, bear fur, and a chandelier that weighs two tons) and the sultan’s resting rooms. The Ambassador Hall was used to host diplomats; the Medhal Hall was used for hosting state officials and celebrations. It can hold 2,500 guests comfortably. Queen Victoria’s gift - the world’s heaviest chandelier – adorns the ceiling. For the first time in Ottoman history, Dolmabhache’s harem was placed on the men’s side of the palace. It is not as luxurious as other rooms in Selamlik. 21 VOYAGER 10/2018

There are many rooms for the sultan, his wives, concubines, heirs and mother. The inhabitants of the harem gathered at Pembe Salonu (the pink hall). In Mavi Salonu, Valide Sultan hosted the wives and the companion women of her son. Open: From Wednesday to Sunday – 9 am-5 pm (please note that the museum limit is 3,000 visitors and it closes after reaching this capacity; we therefore recommend that you arrive at opening time). Ticket price: Selamlik - 40 TRY;Harem 30 TRY; Overall ticket - 60 TRY Vişnezade Mahallesi, Dolmabahçe Cd., Beşiktaş

POPULATION :

MLN

TURKISH MONEY:

ANKARA

KARIYE MÜZESI The Chora Museum (Kariye Müzesi) used to be Chora monastery. It was previously located away from the city. Today the museum is in the area of Edirnekapi, one of the districts of Istanbul. The Church of Jesus Christ is preserved from the monastery complex.

BAYRAM - THE HOLIDAYS THAT CELEBRATE RELIGIOUS FESTIVALS, ŞEKER BAYRAM AND KURBAN BAYRAM. ŞEKER AND KURBAN BAYRAM ARE CELEBRATED AT DIFFERENT TIMES AND THIS YEAR THEY TAKE PLACE IN THE SUMMER. IN 2018, ŞEKER BAYRAM IS ON JUNE 14-17, AND KURBAN BAYRAM ON AUGUST 20-24. PUBLIC INSTITUTIONS, BANKS, RESTAURANTS AND SHOPS MAY BE CLOSED IN THIS PERIOD.

LIR A AND KURUŞ.

100 KURUŞ IS 1 LIR A.

TURKEY PHONE CODE :

+90

You cannot use the Booking.com service to book a hotel in Turkey. Contact other sites instead (for example, www.trivago.com), tourist agencies or hotels directly.

Turkey is a country of smokers but smoking in buildings is prohibited. In restaurants and cafés, there are external areas for smoking that are well-heated in winter. IF A TOURIST IN TURKEY TRIES TO USE A LOCAL NUMBER OR SIM CARD IN HIS PHONE BUT THE PHONE WAS NOT PURCHASED IN THE COUNTRY, THE DEVICE WILL BE BLOCKED AFTER TWO WEEKS.

The monastery gained importance in the Christian world due to its necropolis. The monastery complex was damaged by an earthquake and Emperor Justinian built a new, magnificent temple. When Sultan Mehmed II conquered the city, the temple was kept safe, but later it was converted into a mosque under Sultan Baizid II. Today, the museum is located in the Chora temple and attracts visitors with its splendid mosaics and frescoes. Ilarion the Georgian and Grigol from Khandzta visited Chora, the largest Christian and educational center in IX. The manuscript “The Small Book of the Law” was written in Chora. It dates back to 1031. Open: Every day, except Wednesday, from 9 am to 7 pm, in winter from 9 am to 5 pm. Ticket price: 30 TRY

IF A TOURIST TAKES A PRIVATE CAR FROM GEORGIA TO TURKEY, THE CAR MUST BE OPERATED BY AN OWNER OR ENTRUSTED PERSON. INSURANCE IS REQUIRED FOR SEDAN CARS WITH AN ENGINE MORE THAN 1.6 LITRES. INSURANCE MAY BE ACQUIRED ON SITE.

TURKEY-GEORGIA BORDER:

THE BATUMI-SARPI BORDER operates on a 24-hour regime (it is better to check information about possible delays due to repair works in 2018). THE VALE-POTSKHOVI BORDER has a 24-hour working regime from May to October and 8 am to 8 pm the rest of the year. THE KARTSAKHI-CHILDIRI BORDER operates on a 24-hour working regime (it is best to check the information before traveling, considering seasonal changes and climatic conditions).

Dervişali Mahallesi, Kariye Cami Sk. No:8,Fatih  EMBASSY OF GEORGIA AND CONSULAR SERVICE IN ANKARA. Address: Kılıç Ali Sk. No: 12, Oran Mahallesi, 06450 Çankaya / Ankara; Tel .: +90 312 491 80 30/31; Hot line: +90 533 6903040  GENERAL CONSULATE OF GEORGIA IN ISTANBUL. Address: Sümbül sokak N17, Levent, Beşiktaş-İstanbul; Tel .: +90 212 2700261; Hotline: +90 541 8184400  GENERAL CONSULATE OF GEORGIA IN TRABZON. Address: Ortahisar Mahallesi, Pertevpaşa Sk. No: 10, 61030 Trabzon Merkez; Tel .: +90 462 3262226; Hotline: +90 541 3262226s 22 VOYAGER 10/2018

SIGHTSEEINGS / İ S TA N B U L

THERE WERE TIMES WHEN ISTANBUL HOUSED 237 HAMAMS; 60 OF THEM ARE STILL ACTIVE.

HA MA M

Religious beliefs are the main reason why bathing became so important in Ottoman culture: according to the Quran, cleansing the body is an act of faith. As for the wealthy, they visited baths with their own silk towels, combs, scrubs and famous soap from Crete; wore sandals with precious gems; and were followed by an army of servants. This is because high society spent all day in hamams. Since ancient times, three different procedures have taken place in Turkish baths: steaming, full cleansing with water, and finally, massage. At the height of the Ottoman Empire, all

of the districts of Istanbul had hamams with hot and cold water basins, fountains and marble-covered arched halls. On certain days of the week, only women could go.

HASEKI HÜRREM SULTAN HAMAMI

After scrubbing, you will be washed with soapy water and receive a massage.

This bath was built on the order of Hürrem Sultan, the spouse of Sultan Suleyman I. It was constructed in the 16th century by the architect Mimar Sinan. Cool hall - guests initially arrive here and wrap a peshtemal (piece of silk fabric) around themselves before bathing. After bathing, you can relax here and enjoy a refreshing shower. Warm hall - after a sweating in the hot room, your back will be scrubbed well. Hot hall - a huge marble massage table stands right under the dome surrounded by separate cells. The air temperature varies from 42 to 50 degrees but in each cell it can reach 60. There are buckets of cool water and copper jugs. This is the first hall that you enter so that the steam and heat prepare the skin for scrubbing.

THE TRADITION OF HAMAMS REMAINED VALUABLE FOR THOUSANDS OF YEARS, NOT ONLY IN TERMS OF HYGIENE OR HEALTH BUT ALSO AS A PLACE OF RECREATION AND PUBLIC GATHERING.

Open: 8 am – 10 pm Hammam ritual price: 40 € CankurtaranMh., AyasofyaMeydanı No:2, 34122 Fatih

CEMBERLITAS HAMAMI A visit to this Hamam, which is close to the Mahmud Pasha Mosque and madrasa, is worthwhile due to its past. It was built in 1584 for Nurbanu Sultan and since then has been renovated several times. In its arches, you will fully appreciate the flavor of the past centuries. Open: 6 am – 12 am Hamam procedure price: 30 € Vezirhan Cad. No: 8, 34440 Çemberlitaş

KILIÇ ALI PAŞAHAMAMI Admiral Ali Paşa ordered the construction of this hamam as part of the mosque and the madrasa (educational complex). It was constructed by Minar Sinan, the greatest architect of his time. Thanks to sophisticated architectural details and impressive dome, the building remains one of the main attractions of the Istanbul Port District. The Derya Hamam Boutique, located at the main entrance of the building, offers a lot of items related to the traditional culture of hamam. The traditional ritual does not necessarily include a massage procedure. Professional therapists provide oil massage and an appointment is necessary. Hamam ritual price: 45 € Open: 08.00 -23.30 KemankeşKaramustafaPaşaMahallesi, Hamam Sk. No:1, 34425 Beyoğlu

23 VOYAGER 10/2018

CRUISES

BOĞAZIÇI THE LENGTH OF THE BOSPORUS STRAIT LOCATED BETWEEN THE BLACK AND THE MARMARA SEA IS 32 KM. IT RANGES FROM 700 TO 3000 M WIDE AND 30 TO 120 M DEEP. THE STRAIT IS IN THE CENTER OF ISTANBUL AND DIVIDES THE CITY INTO ITS EUROPEAN AND ASIAN HALVES. ACCORDING TO ONE THEORY, THE BORDER BETWEEN EUROPE AND ASIA PASSES THROUGH THE BOSPORUS.

The Bosporus is the only link to both seas so it has great strategic and commercial importance: many conquerors tried to gain control over it in ancient times.

TODAY, MARITIME MOVEMENT IS VERY INTENSE HERE: 50-60 THOUSAND PASSENGER AND CARGO SHIPS PASS ANNUALLY.

The surface waters flow from north to south (from the Black Sea to the Marmara Sea) and the internal flow moves to the opposite side, thus, it requires specialist knowledge to operate large carriers. A pontoon bridge was built across it as early as Darius I (522485 BC). Three suspension bridges cross the strait today. One of them is simply called the first bridge of Bosporus, the second structure is called the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge, after the padişah of the Ottoman Empire (c.XV) and the third bears the name of Yavuz Sultan Selim. The latter opened in 2016 and is the longest and widest suspension bridge in the world (length - 1.4 km; width - 59 m). An eight-lane highway and two train lines cross the bridge.

Most excursion ferries leave the Eminönü and Ortakoy docks. Şehir Hatları is one of the most popular ferry companies. It uses big ferries and offers several options for cruises. A short tour (Kısa Boğaz Turu) is the most frequent choice for most travelers; it lasts two hours. This is just long enough to enjoy the beauty of the Bosporus while sailing from Eminönü to the second bridge. A longer tour (Uzun Boğaz Turu) lasts 6 hours and is more diverse. For an hour and a half, the ferry moves slowly to Anadolu kavağı, a fishermen’s settlement, which visitors are given three hours to visit. Numerous small fish restaurants are located here.

The sunset tour (Mehtap turu) is only held on Saturday evenings in the summer (June 5 to September 15). This impressive trip starts from the Kadıköy Bostancı dock.

Bosporus tour costs (2018): Long tour (both way) - 25TRY; Long Tour (one direction) 15 TRY; Short tour - 12 TRY; Sunset tour - 20 TRY.

If you decide to hire a yacht, we recommend using the Zoe Yacht service. Renting a cruise yacht for two-hours (for 12 people) will cost you about 300€.

KEEP IN MIND THAT THE SUMMER SUN IN TURKEY IS VERY INTENSE, SO STOCK UP ON SUN SCREEN, SUNGLASSES AND HATS. IT’S ALSO WINDY ON THE FERRY DECK, SO BRING WARM CLOTHES, ESPECIALLY DURING AUTUMN-WINTER.

DURING THE BOSPORUS TOUR, YOU WILL SEE THE IMPORTANT SIGHTS OF ISTANBUL AND THE CITY’S BEAUTIFUL DISTRICTS WITH THEIR STUNNING GARDENS, PARKS, MOSQUES AND SCULPTURES.

24 VOYAGER 10/2018

THE PRINCES’ ISLANDS / MARMARA SEA

Motor cars are not allowed on the islands (except for school buses and ambulances), so the most popular means of transportation are horse-drawn carriages, which serve as cabs. A 15 KM TOUR AROUND THE ISLAND, THE BÜYÜK TUR, COSTS 80 TRY; A 45 MINUTE TOUR COSTS 70 TRY.

PRENS ADALARI THE PRINCE ISLANDS, OR THE ISTANBUL ISLANDS, IS A GROUP OF NINE ISLANDS LOCATED IN THE ASIAN PART OF THE CITY. THEIR NAME ORIGINATES FROM THE BYZANTINE AND OTTOMAN EMPIRE PERIODS WHEN THE UNTRUSTWORTHY MEMBERS OF THE ROYAL DYNASTY WERE EXILED TO THESE ISLANDS. APART FROM THE EXILED ROYALTY, MONKS USED TO LIVE THERE TOO, WHICH GAVE THE ISLANDS YET ANOTHER NAME - KEŞIŞ ADALARI, MEANING “THE ISLANDS OF THE MONKS.”

The main islands of the archipelago are: Kınalıada, Burgaz, Heybeliada and Büyükada. Apart from them, only one small island – Sedef, on the east of Büyükada – is inhabited. Most of Sedef is a private territory. Visiting the main islands is a wonderful one-day trip, which is best taken in the spring (April-May) and the fall (September-October). If you do not have time to visit all of the islands, start with Büyükada.

BÜYÜKADA

THE EASTERN AND WESTERN PARTS OF BÜYÜKADA ARE MOSTLY COMPRISED OF THE LATE XIX AND EARLY XX CENTURY VICTORIANSTYLE WOODEN HOUSES, WITH THE WESTERN PART BEING MORE LUXURIOUS AND IMPRESSIVE.

The best way to get to the Prince Islands is by ferry. Şehir Hatları will serve you in Kabataş, Adalar terminal, Eminönü or Beşiktaş, which are only used in the second half of the year. It will take you 45-90 minutes from Kadiköy port on the Asian side depending on which island you are planning to visit. The first stop of each ferry is Kınalıada-a, followed by Burgazada, Heybeliada, and finally Büyükada. The ferry schedule changes according to the season. In summer, on weekends they are very crowded; we recommend that you arrive 30 minutes before departure to be guaranteed a place. Be sure to check the time of the return trip to avoid getting stuck on an island. One-way ticket: 10 TRY

After getting off the ferry, you will notice a clock located on a square. This is the center of the city; most of the restaurants are on the left side. The left bank is also filled with restaurants. In the south part, there is a hill with beautiful houses and narrow streets. Birlik Meydanı is another center located in the middle of the island between two hills and surrounded by a pine forest. There are circular roads south of this place and there is a Saint George Temple above Birlik Meydanı. AYA YORGI MANASTIR

You must follow a steep path to the cathedral for about 35-40 minutes. The building itself is not

ALIBABA

“Alibaba” is the best place for trying seafood on Büyükada. It is located in the center of the city, on the left of the port and with the sea view opening from its building. It is better to reserve a table in advance on Saturdays. Open: 10 am -1 am Gülistan Cad. 18, Büyükada

Çam Limanı Koyu is a quiet beach at Heybeliada shore. Ada Beach Club is located there. There are no cars on the island so you will have to wait for a motor boat to explore it. Club Ada Sedef and Elio Sedef are the two quietest beaches of Sedef Island, surrounded by a tall stone fence. Club Ada Sedef hosts loud parties at the weekends while Elio Sedef is always quiet.

very impressive but you will see beautiful views of the islands from its yard.

candle, but can involve walking barefoot on the trail too.

The ritual of making a wish is often limited to walking up the hill and lighting a

Most of the pilgrims of the church are non-Christian Turks.

25 VOYAGER 10/2018

İSTANBUL ARKEOLOJI MÜZELERI The Istanbul Archaeological Museums is a group of three museums. The main part houses the Old East Museum and glazed tile pavilion. Among the many exhibits spanning various eras are unique sarcophagi that date to the fourth century BC. The Sidon sarcophagus depicts scenes from life of Alexander the Great, and the so-called weeping woman’s sarcophagus is also on display. There are many ancient sculptures, artefacts that have been obtained from the excavation of Troy, busts of Zeus and Alexander the Great, and fragments of Athenian temples, among other things.

ONE OF THE THREE FAMOUS COLUMNS HAS AN ENGRAVING OF THE TREATY OF KADESH MADE BETWEEN PHARAOH RAMESSES II AND HATTUSILI III OF THE HITTITES IN 1269 BC AFTER THE BATTLE OF KADESH. THE GLAZED TILE PAVILION WAS CONSTRUCTED IN 1472 ON THE ORDERS OF SULTAN MEHMED II THE CONQUEROR. IT IS THE OLDEST EXAMPLE OF OTTOMAN ARCHITECTURE IN ISTANBUL.

Halicarnassus mausoleum, one of the seven wonders of the world. There is a statue of the goddess Cybele, a cuneiform collection that includes 75,000 exhibits and artefacts from the ancient civilizations of Asia, Mesopotamia, the Arabian Peninsula and Egypt. There is the Siloam inscription from the Ezekiel passage in Jerusalem and the Gezer calendar, which is written in the Paleo-Hebrew alphabet. Open: every day except Mondays – 9 am -5pm; Ticket price: 25 TRY Cankurtaran Mh., 34122 Fatih

The museum has an impressive collection of invaluable exhibits. Apart from the abovementioned sarcophagi, it features the Tabite sarcophagus, the Satrap sarcophagus, a tomb from ancient Lycia, a statue of Zeus Ammon from the city of Pergamon, and a statue of a lion that is the only surviving item from the

İSTANBUL MODERN SANAT MÜZESI The first museum of modern art opened in Istanbul in 2004 in a large warehouse space on the Bosphorus coast. The museum’s restaurant is an attraction in its own right. Located on the ground floor, it offers guests a magnificent view of the Bosphorus, which is no less impressive than the works of art in the museum space.

The museum’s permanent collection displays works by contemporary Turkish artists, and the exhibition halls on the first floor house temporary exhibitions and film screenings. The museum also has an additional space dedicated to large shows held in Istanbul. This is not just a museum but a cultural-educational space for locals and city visitors alike.

Open: Every day except Mondays, 10am – 6pm; Thursday – 10am – 8pm. Ticket price: 25 TRY Meclis-i Mebusan Cad. Liman İşletmeleri Sahası Antrepo No: 4 26 VOYAGER 10/2018

MUSEUMS / İ S TA N B U L

SAKIP SABANCI MÜZESI Egyptian Prince Muhammad Ali Hassan constructed this mansion in 1925, and it was acquired by Turkish entrepreneur Hacı Ömer Sabancı in 1951. The name of the villa (“house with the two horses”) comes from the two horse sculptures – one made by French sculp-

tor Louis Dumas in 1864 and the other a copy of an ancient horse that was abducted by Venetians from Sultanahmet Square during the Crusades in 1204. Since 1974, the house has been in the possession of calligraphy collector Sakıp Sabancı. In 1998, the Sabancı family handed the home and collection to Sabancı University and turned it into a museum. The Museum has a rich collection of calligraphy and versions of the Quran. Important temporary exhibitions are regularly held here. Open: Every day, except Mondays: 10am-6pm; Wednesday - 10am-8pm (visits are free on this day). Ticket price: 30 TRY Sakıp Sabancı Caddesi, 42 Emirgan

İSTANBUL DENIZ MÜZESI Established in 1897, the Istanbul Naval Museum is one of the oldest and largest museums in Turkey and has a 20,000 exhibit collection. Access to the sea has been an integral part of Constantinople and later Istanbul, and this museum contains numerous precious artifacts related to this. The museum moved into a new building in 2013. It houses wooden ornaments from ancient ships, models and the huge chain of the Byzantine period that limited entry of vessels into Constantinople’s waters. Colorful boats of the Ottoman Empire, called caïques, are also on display. Open: every day except Mondays: 9am - 5pm; Price: 8, 5 TRY Hayrettin İskelesi Sok. 80690 Beşiktaş

TÜRK VE İSLAM ESERLERI MÜZESI

The Turkish and Islamic Art Museum is located in the heart of Istanbul in Sultanahmet Square. Built in 1524, the building belonged to grand vizier Pargalı Ibrahim Pasha. The museum houses an excellent collection of Islamic calligraphy, carpets, ceramics and ethnographic materials. Here you will find the treasure of the Abbasid Caliphate, mosaics and frescoes. The museum features a surviving door from the Jizre Great Mosque, dating back to 1155. Open: 9am – 4:30pm; Closed on Mondays; Ticket price: 25 TRY At Meydani Sok. Ibrahim Pasa Sarayi No:46

MASUMIYET MÜZESI The uniqueness of the Museum of Innocence is in the fact that it was envisioned by Nobel Laureate Orhan Pamuk when he wrote his famous novel of the same title. The museum, full of nostalgic memories, is located in a typical house of the Ottoman era. Installations placed in boxes tell us about years gone forever, innocence and a city that no longer exists. Open: Every day except Mondays: 10am – 6pm; Thursdays: 10am – 9pm Ticket price: 30 TRY Firuzağa Mahallesi Dalgıç Sk. No:2, Beyoğlu

27 VOYAGER 10/2018

FOUR SEASONS, Sultanahmet This mustard-colored hotel was once a prison. The inner courtyard, originally designated for prisoners’ exercise, is now a landscaped garden. The Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul located in Sultanahmet’s three-storied neoclassical building with marble stairs is just five minutes from the Grand Bazaar. Despite its sophisticated and luxurious interior, hints of the hotel’s past are kept intact, including prisoner’s inscriptions on the marble columns and the checkpoints covered by minarets that are now elevator areas. The rooms are cozy and beautifully arranged. The head of each bed reminds us of the dome of the blue mosque which is located nearby. The Kemer

MR CAS HOTELS, Beyoğlu The ideal location of the hotel offers you unforgettable impressions of Beyoğlu and the unique atmosphere of Istiklal Street. The special structures of this street are located right on the opposite side of the hundred-year-old building – Cicek Pasaji and old Balik Pazari with authentic cottages and shops. The traditional old Istanbul tram runs in front of the building. At the exit of the hotel, you will enter the historical area. The hotel’s name is linked to the mysterious Mr. Cas, who lived in Guney Palas. At the beginning of the 20th century, this place was the center of

Golf, Country Club and Swissôtel tennis courts are available for guests. The A’YA lounge is located on the roof of the hotel and offers a magnificent view over Ayasophia. This lounge is one of the most impressive terraces in Istanbul, from which you will see the blue mosque. The neo-Ottoman styled A’Ya offers a great choice of alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks and flavorful snacks, such as dolma, lambs durum and Turkish pastry. The Sultanahmet massage is outstanding. It combines eastern and western massage techniques that bring about deep relaxation. Room price: starting at 280 € Tevkifhane Sokak No. 1 Sultanahmet-Eminönü

glamor and fashion. Mr. Cas’s parties, for which guests prepared diligently, were real celebrations. Today, Hotel Mr CAS is just as warm and hospitable as its namesake. The hotel has more than 33 rooms decorated with Art-Deco furniture. They range in size from 20 sq.m to 111 sq.m. The ceiling height is 360 centimeters, and Mr CAS’s lounge is open for all guests any day of the week. We recommend that you try a cocktail in the lounge bar when you stroll down the Istiklal, even if you do not live in the hotel. Room price: starting at 100 € Istiklal Street No:153, Beyoğlu mrcashotels.com

28 VOYAGER 10/2018

THE MARMARA, Pera Besides its comfortable rooms, the hotel offers a spa, outdoor pool, popular bar on the roof and restaurant Mikla. In the Beyoğlu district, ancient history is mixed with modernity, and from this hotel terrace you can look at the lively streets of the district.

The Marmara Café has a cozy and warm atmosphere. It is located on the foyer floor and visitors can study the diverse Pera district from its windows. The high-ceiling dining space with its fashionable design is perfectly suited to the district’s unique character. The bar is in the middle of the cafe, surrounded by an open air terrace. The café is open daily and offers an excellent breakfast buffet. Lunch and dinner are served from an à la carte menu, offering a great choice of wines. Mikla Restaurant - Istanbul Mikla is not an ordinary restaurant: we can freely call it new Anatolian cuisine, which uses the rarest ingredients, such as halal olives and halva from remote tiny villages of Turkey. This is a successful attempt to save ancient culinary traditions, and experimenting with old methods of preparation; clay vessels perfectly combine with the minimalistic decor of the restaurant located on the 18th floor of the hotel. Room price: starting at 90€ (sea view rooms are 30% more expensive). Mesrutiyet Caddesi Tepebasi 34430

H O T E L S / I S TA N B U L

PERA PALACE, Pera This hotel, overlooking Istanbul’s “golden horn” has long been a beacon for writers and artists. It was built in 1892 by the French architect Alexander Vallaury and, as legend has it, this is where Agatha Christie wrote her famous novel “Murder on the Orient Express”. Ernest Hemingway was a frequent visitor of this hotel as well. The hotel has been granted the status of a museum; after its renovation, the old, historic tone was returned to it though today it has less of that old magical charm. Despite this, the designer Anouska adapted it to the environment, as if returning guests to the 1920s. Mesrutiyet Caddesi 52, Beyoglu

WITT SUITES, Cihangir This multi-story building, located in a green area, was produced by the famous design company “Autoban”. Its style includes oak rocking chairs, leather sofas and glossy marbletop tables. Each tiny detail is a remarkable example of modern Turkish aesthetics; for example, the small kitchenettes in the rooms, which made Autoban famous. However, everything here is saturated with the influence of the wealthy Ottoman tradition. The upper floors offer wonderful views of the Bosporus Strait. Some of the open balconies bask in a view of the sea. The rooftop garden offers a variety of spa procedures and a pool. Room price: starting at 90 € Deftrdar Yokusu 26, Beyoglu; witteistanbul.com

TOMTOM SUITES, Galata Built at the end of the 19th century, this building was once part of the French mission of the Franciscan Nuns. Today, it features 20 rooms decorated with medieval wooden patterns, styled with contemporary Turkish art. The glass elevator takes guests to the roof of the five-story building, providing a beautiful view of the city center and the historic peninsula. Nicole, a restaurant on the roof, named after the former head of the mission, is one of the best in Istanbul. It is owned by Sakarya husband and wife. Chef Kaan offers a variety of signature contemporary Turkish dishes, and his wife, the professional confectioner Aylin Yazıcıoğlu, offers delicious desserts and other delicacies. Room price: starting at 110 €. Kaptan Sokak 18, Beyoglu; tomtomsuites.com

A’JIA HOTEL, Beykoz This boutique style hotel is a romantic and interesting place to experience real Istanbul. There are 16 rooms and suites, where luxury and modern designs combine in the 1870s pavilion. The hotel has ten deluxe rooms, five of which have their own balconies, and six deluxe suites, three of which have mezzanine floors. A view of the Bosporus is available from all rooms and suites. The blue colors of the Bosporus look impressive through the long, narrow windows of this Ottoman restaurant, and is even more intensely perceived in contrast to the darker interior. The menu features delicacies of Mediterranean cuisine, and the chef is the recipient of many awards. On Sundays, A’jia Restaurant is one of the most popular brunch places in Istanbul. Room price: starting at 200 € Halide Edip Adıvar Cad. No:27, Kanlica www.ajiahotel.com/en

29 VOYAGER 10/2018

H O T E L S / I S TA N B U L

LES OTTOMANS, Bosphorus The former house of Mushinzade Mehmed Pasha was one of the most prestigious buildings of his time. Built on ruins from the Ahmad III era, this house with its elegant fountain and garden complex is a perfect example of Ottoman gardens and water architecture. The house was occupied from 1790-1929, and in the 1980s the own-

ers’ heirs sold it. The renovated building became one of the best hotels in Turkey. Les Ottomans Bosporus offers its guests all the details of a luxurious lifestyle, and each suite is a harmonious unity of Ottoman tradition and modern luxury. This hotel is among a small list of certified Feng Shui boutique hotels. All the details of the 3,500-year-old tradition of Feng Shui are taken into consideration: the space has been created

according to the elements of heaven, earth, air and water and humans, as well as the concepts of the axis, time and space. Park Şamdan – the restaurant constantly hosts global stars and successful businessmen. It will charm you with Park Şamdan’s classic menu and the views of the Bosporus. The whole exclusive design of the garden at Park Şamdan & The Bar makes it even more attractive.

This restaurant, located in the SwissLes Ottomans Bosporus garden, is a wonderful destination for wine and cuisine. The world’s finest wines are stored in the basement of SWISS, perfectly paired with local delicacies and cheese. The Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa is a real paradise where unique aromas of precious essential oils and the best massages await you. Special methods of body care are offered here: cask baths and a crushed Cabernet scrub – a great way for grape skin care. The Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa offers traditional massages and other types of body care from different countries of the world. Room price: starting at 300 € Muallim Naci Cad. No:68, Kurucesme

THE GRAND TARABYA, Tarabya The Grand Tarabya was one of the first five-star hotels in Turkey. This 12-storey building has 168 deluxe rooms, 79 suites, one presidential suite and 30 exclusive apartments. It is an ideal place for family holidays in Istanbul. The Grand Tarabya’s restaurants and bars will delight all gourmands with their exquisite decor and dishes. The restaurant offers views of the Bosporus, the Tarabya district and port.

The Brasserie Restaurant will offer you a complete buffet breakfast, with an à la carte menu for lunch, and the interior and outdoor terraces are an ideal location for Sunday brunch. The seafood restaurant Limani is distinguished by its fresh ingredients and local delicacies, spices and plants. R.E.A.D. Cafe & Bakery offers the most delicate pastries and cakes that you have ever tasted. The unique lounge – The T Lounge – offers you a glimpse of the glamorous atmosphere of the 1960s: afternoon tea is accompanied by tunes on the piano, harp and violin. The 4,500 sq.m Therapia Spa offers you the most exclusive therapy and body care procedures, all while enjoying the Bosporus landscape. It features centuries-old spa rituals from different parts of the world. The spa includes a sauna, two personal spa suites, 14 different massage rooms and therapeutic cabinets. The hotel has a fully equipped fitness center. It also offers a Pilates studio. Outside, open pools are filled with filtered sea water and warm floors provide ideal comfort. Room price: starting at 190 €

30 VOYAGER 10/2018

Tarabya Mahallesi Haydar Aliyev Cd. No:154, Tarabya

T R A N S P O RT / I S TA N B U L

PRIVATE CAR WITH A PERSONAL DRIVER

You must order in advance if you want to hire a private driver to get from the airport to the city. The driver will meet you at the airport and take care of your luggage. The cost of this service: one way – starting at 60 €, plus 18% VAT Booking: 0212 444 25 75 TRAVELLING FROM THE AIRPORT

SEA TAXI

The easiest way to reach Istanbul from Atatürk Airport is to rent a yellow taxi. Don’t worry about the long queues – there are plenty of taxis at the airport. You will pay per kilometer covered. You can rarely pay with a credit card in a Turkish taxi so make sure you have some Turkish Lira (TRY) at hand. Tipping the driver is not obligatory though it’s a good gesture to round up the sum. From the Atatürk Airport: 30 km, 45-90 minutes, 60-100 TRY; From the Sabiha Gökçen Airport: 50 km, 60-120 minutes, 120-150 TRY.

A Sea Taxi or Marine Taxi is a new type of transport in Istanbul. They operate 24 hours a day. Istanbul dwellers may board a sea taxi at 27 points along the Bosporus, as well as at some of the stations on Princes’ Island and some of the ports on the Asian side. It is difficult to catch a taxi between 3pm and 4 pm as drivers end their shifts during this period; the same is true for rainy and snowy weather. Istanbul taxi drivers drive quickly and often violate traffic rules despite the strict consequences. COMMENT

SUBWAY

It will take you 35 minutes to get from Atatürk Airport to Aksaray via Metro M1 line for 4 TRY. BUS

The TH-1 Express bus will take you from Atatürk Airport to Taksim Square in 60 minutes for 4TRY. Buses run every half hour. From 4 am to 1 pm.

TAXI

Traveling in Istanbul by taxi is the best choice for a short trip. The ride is not expensive. Cars with a company emblem on the doors are much safer, and if you forget an item there, you can easily find it afterwards. If you are staying in a hotel, you should use the hotel taxi service because the drivers are more attentive.

There is a smart-phone app for the UberBOAT service that allows you to hire a quick, personalized boat to travel the city’s famous maritime route. Clients standing near the water can find their nearest free boat using the app. Each boat can accommodate 7-10 people, and the ride starts at 50 TRY.

Do not forget to remind the driver to turn on the meter. Each fare starts at 4 TRY and every kilometer is an additional 2.5 TRY. There are no different night tariffs in Istanbul. I recommend that you always pay in Turkish Liras as the taxi exchange rate is unfavorable. It is customary to round up the total sum by 1-2 TRY.

TÜNEL

TRAM

METROBUS

The Kabataş-Bağcılar line is exceptionally practical because it runs from Kabataş to the old city. Due to traffic jam problems, Sultanahmet is difficult to reach by car. Taking the tram is very pleasant as you can enjoy the views of the historic peninsula. One ticket: 4 TRY Istambulkart: 2.30 TRY

Metrobuses run in Istanbul only. These big, modern buses move in lanes designated just for them, thus avoiding accidents, traffic and waiting at the stops. One ticket: 4 TRY. Istambulkart: 10 TRY a multiple ticket (one trip - 2.30 TRY). 31 VOYAGER 10/2018

The Tünel (tunnel) is a short underground route from Karaköy to Beyoğlu. It takes only 1.5 minutes to pass this road, and the cable car leaves every 5-7 minutes. This transport system is 141 years old and is the second oldest funicular in the world. The Tünel is one of the most popular modes of transport for locals because it lets you avoid climbing a steep hill. One ticket: 4 TRY Istambulkart: 2.30 TRY

THE MENU INCLUDES THE DATE AND ORIGIN OF EACH DISH AND EVERYTHING IS PREPARED USING THE METHODOLOGY OF THAT ERA.

ASITANE, Fatih

Ottoman Cuisine

Asitane is located in the heart of the old town. It has been open since 1991 and is a unique Istanbul restaurant specializing in “Ottoman Palace” cuisine. The recipes of royal dishes were always kept secret and orally passed down by the palace cooks. Asitane’s chef restored hundreds of historic dishes as a result of studying the chronicles of the banquets held at the Topkapi and Dolmabahçe palaces. Most of the dishes, including the famous almond soup, come from a feast held in 1539, in celebration of the circumcision of Suleiman the Magnificent’s son. Open: Every day, except Wednesdays – 12 pm – 10:30 pm

Recommended dishes: Ottoman Hummus; Ciğer Köftesi (liver meatballs); Dolma (vine leaf dolma with sour cherry); Beyza Be Cihet-i Börek Makiyan (pastry stuffed with chicken meat, eggs and spices); Stuffed quince or melon Helatiye (pudding with almonds, pistachios, seasonal fruits – in rose water syrup).

ÇIYA SOFRASI, Kadiköy Ottoman Cuisine

Musa Dağdeviren is a wellknown chef in the culinary world. His eclectic menu with Ottoman variations makes Çiya Sofrasi one of Istanbul’s most popular places. Here you will find interesting variations of your favorite dishes, for example, an artichoke dolma; grilled medlar stuffed with rice and minced meat; and classical dolma with caramelized garlic. Dağdeviren prepares an extraordinarily sweet pumpkin juice that goes very well with Turkish food. Open: every day, 11am -10 pm Caferaga Mah. Güneslibahce Sk. No:43

Edirnekapı Mahallesi, Kariye Cami Sk. No: 6 COM M ENT

MEZE Turkish meze or appetizers consist of very diverse foods such as: seafood (stuffed oysters, fried calamari and octopus), dairy products (white, feta-type cheese, with greens or tzatziki, yoghurt with garlic and cucumbers), and stuffed vegetables (dolma and samra). Meat or beans are prepared with onions and garlic and the traditional garnish of bulgur. Meze means to taste in Persian and this is a commonly occurring event in the East: the process of tasting many small dishes. Meze is often enjoyed at the beginning of dinner, before the main meal.

KANAAT LOKANTASI, Üsküdar Fireworks for Your Taste Buds

Having dinner in this traditional locanta is like taking a Turkish food culinary course. Established in 1933, this restaurant is worth a trip to the Asian side of the Bosporus. After a variety of meze, a special meat meal is served, for example, elbasan tava prepared with vegetables and cheese. Definitely save space for a delicious dessert. Moist and fluffy keşkül hides under the sugar surface - rice pudding with almonds, figs, apricots and cream is a real firework for the taste buds. Open: every day, 7am-11pm Sultantepe Mahallesi, Selmani Pak Cd No:9

32 VOYAGER 10/2018

R E S TA U R A N T S / I S TA N B U L

AHIRKAPI BALIKCISI

The restaurant offers a large selection of appetizers, most of them made from fish and other seafood. The main dishes are mainly fish, and those who came to the fish restaurant against their will may order a delicious steak.

KIYI, Tarabya Best Fish

This is a traditional seafood restaurant which has regular clients coming since 1966. The huge space is always crowded. In the cozy interior, the walls are decorated with the works of local artists as well as slightly strange, art-deco style creations. Summer dinners are especially pleasant on the outside terrace.

Recommended dishes: Asma yaprağına sarılı çinekop (bluefish wrapped in vine leaves), Kılıç Şiş (swordfish kabob).

Open: every day, 12 pm – 12 am Haydar Aliyev Caddesi No.186/A, Sarıyer

Fatih

Fish Restaurant

BALIKÇI SABAHATTIN,

Cankurtaran - Eminönü Fish Restaurant

Balıkçı Sabahattin, or “Fisherman Sabahattin” is one of the best restaurants in Istanbul to taste traditional Turkish seafood. Its owner grew up in a fishing family and thus values good fish. Together with his sons, he created the best restaurant in Istanbul to taste homemade seafood.

Ahirkapi Balikcisi is located far from the Istanbul center on one of the millions of quiet streets. However, if you visit it, you will definitely remember the cuisine. The restaurant has four indoor and five outdoor tables. The dishes are amazing - a dish made of delicious little fish, delicious vegetables and homemade desserts; for example, Turkish halva, which is prepared by the wife of the owner, is a real delicacy. Open: 12 pm – 11 pm Cankurtaran Mh., No, Keresteci Hakkı Sk. No:38,

Open: every day, 7am – 12 am Cankurtaran Mh., Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok. No:1

MAVI BALIK, Kuruçeşme The best view of the Bosporus

This restaurant with the best view of the Bosporus in Istanbul was opened in 1995. Here you will taste the best seafood dishes, and the choice of fish is one of the most diverse in Istanbul. Try their famous mullet or bluefish. The restaurant seasonally offers both indoor and terrace dining areas. Open: every day, 12 pm -1 am

HAREM ISTANBUL,

Sultanahmet

Traditional Ottoman

Muallim Naci Cd. 64/A, Beşiktaş

This restaurant offers dishes worthy of a sultan’s meal. Here you will taste Ottoman cuisine. Ingredients are of a very high quality. We recommend Harem Istanbul’s roasted anchovies and grilled perch. This restaurant elevated Turkish seafood cuisine to a new level. Open: every day, 11am 12 pm Alemdar Mh. Biçki Yurdu Sk. No:6

33 VOYAGER 10/2018

TARIHI, Karaköy Spicy Fish

At first glance, this is not a very interesting place. However, it is actually one of the most famous fish restaurants in Istanbul. Its kagitta levrek (spicy fish) attracts fish lovers from every corner of the city. The shrimp and plaice are served with olive oil made from olives grown on the Aegean Sea coast. The fish soup is made with the old recipe. Open: 8am-11pm. Closed on Sundays. Tersane Caddesi 30, Beyoglu

KANTIN, Şişli

MIKLA, Beyoğlu

Innovative versions of delicacies

The Best Place

Innovative versions of delicacies are prepared with seasonal and local ingredients. Traditional Turkish cuisine and innovative versions of international delicacies attract gourmands who enjoy healthy food. Guests eat lunch on the upper floor or take out salads, baked goods and other

Turkish-Finnish Chef Mehmet Gurs hosts this restaurant with a wonderful view.

BEYMEN BRASSERIE, Şişli French Kitchen

snacks. Even though the menu changes daily, do not miss the falafel if it is on the menu. Open: Tuesday-Saturday, 11:30 am-2: 45 pm / 7 pm -10:30 pm; Monday – 11 am -5 pm; Closed on Sundays. Reserve an advance. Teşvikiye, Maçka Cd. Milli Reasürans Pasajı 35A D:16 ve 60

Nişantaşı’s unique atmosphere and character is reflected in this 100 sq.m. area. The space is divided into two parts: the entrance to the inner hall is from the Beymen shop and the terrace is the target of the paparazzi hiding on the opposite side of the restaurant since it is a favorite gathering place for locals as well as stars.

Open: every day, 10:30 am -1 am Harbiye Mh., Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No:23/1, Şişli

each dish carefully and believes that he is a gastronomical anthropologist and expert on regional cuisine.

Mediterranean Menu

The menu is a cross between Mediterranean and Aegean seaside cuisine, flavored with Turkish tastes and spices. This Chef Simeon Triantafyllou’s achievement. In addition to the delicious dishes, the restaurant has a wide range of excellent wines. Open: 12 pm -2 am Harbiye Mahallesi, Teşvikiye Caddesi, 41-41/A

Gurs chooses recipes and ingredients for

The menu features French salads and grilled dishes that excite local gourmands.

FRANKIE, Nişantaşı Frankie Istanbul, located on the top floor of The Sofa Hotel, has become one of the most popular destinations in Istanbul. With a distinctive and elegant appearance, it adapted to the Nisantaşı environment very naturally. The restaurant offers a truly fabulous sea view and guests feel like they are in a fairy tale.

He is distinguished by his unlimited fantasy. The Hotel Marmara Pera restaurant, Mikla, has menu items characteristic of Istanbul, such as balik ekmek (zoo anchovy seared in flour) or sutlac (rice pilaf ).

Open: 6 pm-2 am. Closed on Sundays.

NICOLE, Beyoğlu

The Marmara Pera Meşrutiyet Caddesi 15

Contemporary Turkish

This Beyoglu culinary world’s treasure offers highly refined dishes. It offers a harmonious unity of modern cuisine and seasonal ingredients, and the taste of the dishes is unforgettable. The restaurant is located on the bottom floor of the boutique hotel, Tomtom Suites. The menu changes every six weeks and chefs hand-pick ingredients in the organic produce in the bazaars and culinary stores of Istanbul. A visit to Nicole is a specially planned trip to the gastronomic world and culinary magic. We recommend absolutely all the dishes. Open: Tuesday-Saturday, from 6:30 pm Last order 9:30; Closes on Sundays and Mondays. Boğazkesen cad. Tomtom Kaptan Sok. No:18 34 VOYAGER 10/2018

COMMENT

Even though it is not mandatory to tip in Turkey, leaving money is a good gesture to emphasize that you have been happy with the service. It is customary to leave a 10-15% tip in restaurants and round up to one or two Turkish Liras in a taxi.

R E S TA U R A N T S / I S TA N B U L

ZUMA, Sarıyer Best Sushi

The Istanbul branch of London, Hong Kong and New York’s most trendy Japanese restaurant is the ideal place to taste sushi. Zuma’s diverse and delicious seafood dishes will provide special culinary experiences in Istanbul. Rainer Becker prepares authentic Japanese dishes. Zuma’s menu features delicacies such as fried crab with wasabi mayonnaise, yellowtail sashimi with pickled garlic, fresh spinach and ponzu sauce, black cod marinated in miso wrapped in leaf, and lobster baked in the oven with garlic and chili butter.

RECOMMENDED COCKTAILS: LYCHEE MARTINI, ASIAN COOLER. THE İSTINYE PARK RESTAURANT IS LOCATED IN A LUXURY SHOPPING MALL. WITH NO TRAFFIC, IT WILL TAKE YOU 30 MINUTES TO GET THERE FROM THE CITY CENTER. THIS IS A FAVORITE PLACE OF THE YOUNG AND RICH OF ISTANBUL. RESERVATIONS ARE REQUIRED.

IST TOO, Beşiktaş

Sushi Bar

Although the Shangri-La Hotel looks rich with its gold and marble, with lots of protected entrances, it’s still worth crossing these barriers to reach the crowded Ist Too. The wood and copper design was created by young Hong Kong designer Andre Fu. The sushi bar is located at the entrance followed by a few private spaces, a corner restaurant and the atrium. The menu offers classic dishes as well. Open: 6 am – 11 pm Sinanpasa Mah, Hayrettin Iskelesi Sok, No:1

Open: every day at 12 pm- 12 am İstinye Mahallesi, Bayır Çk. İstinye park No:461

TUTI, Taksim

AHESTE, Beyoglu

Local Gastronomic Tradition

Regional cuisine

You will enjoy special views from the top floor of Marmara Taksim, which can be seen from any point of Istanbul. The restaurant is a new Istanbul concept, where all local gastronomic traditions are combined: Turkish, Cherkes, Armenian, Kurdish, Anatolian and Balkan. Seasonal variants include Aegean vegetable salad and dolma stuffed with artichokes or perde pilav - a spicy rice prepared on a hot stone with lime, apricot, raisins and almonds. It offers a wide choice of raki and local wines.

Aheste is located on a historic street in the fashionable district of Pera. The name Aheste means “slow”. It takes nutrition very seriously. It pays tribute to natural cycles and seasons with baked bread, fresh organic vegetables, local spices, and bouquets of wild flowers on the tables.

Open: 6:30 am-10:30 pm The Marmara Taksim, Gümüşsuyu Mahallesi Tak-ı Zafer Caddesi, No 3, Beyoğlu, İstanbul

dishes include dudi rice with Iranian zereshki berries. Also, try the artichokes with erzincan goat cheese! Open: Monday-Friday – 6:30 am -11 pm; Saturday-Sunday - 9 am – 3 pm; 6:30 pm – 11 pm. Asmalı Mescit Mahallesi Meşrutiyet Caddesi no. 107/F

You cannot hurry in Aheste Pera: try aromatic rice slices, artichoke salad, hazelnuts and cheese tulum, lamb meat roasted on fire and so on. Chef Sara Tabrizi is of Iranian decent. She offers dishes prepared in regional, Turkish, Greek and Armenian traditions. The most interesting AS PER MEDITERRANEAN TRADITION, ISTANBUL DWELLERS DINE LATE AND ENJOY A FEW COCKTAILS BEFORE THEIR MEAL. DINNER STARTS AT 9 O’CLOCK IN THE EVENING OR LATER, SINCE EVERYONE IS “FASHIONABLY” LATE IN ISTANBUL. MORE DRINKS ARE ENJOYED AFTER DINNER IN CLUBS THAT ARE OPEN UNTIL THE MORNING. SUNDAY EVENING IS THE ONLY RELATIVELY QUIET EVENING IN THIS CITY WHEN THE LOCALS FEEL THE MONDAY BLUES.

35 VOYAGER 10/2018

R E S TA U R A N T S / I S TA N B U L

Chef Yılmaz Öztürk leads the kitchen. He has introduced many novelties and his roasted, smoked or fire-seared dishes carry unforgettable flavors. I recommend that you try smoked tongue with pickled apple, as well as coal-roasted octopus and calamari.

KARAKÖY LOKANTASI, Beyoğlu

MÜRVER, Beyoğlu

Anatolian Cuisine

Dishes Prepared on Coal

This family restaurant opened in 2000. It is well known among the Istanbul elite community and is celebrated for serving the highest quality Turkish cuisine at affordable prices. Drinks are allowed as well.

Roasting meat on an open fire is possible not only in the open air but also on the roof of a five-star hotel, which is located in the heart of Istanbul.

The menu changes daily, though lunches frequently feature specialty dishes such as: hünkar beğendi - stewed meat with minced eggplant, and ızgara süt kuzu pirzola - baby lamb kebab. As for dinner, a wide selection of meat dishes are available, as well as fish and in general, seafood: distinctly delicious pickled artichoke, fried chicken with rice garnish and eggplants mixed with meat. You can ask for a Turkish dessert - for example, baklava or vişne soslu muhallebi (milk cake with cherry juice on top). Make your reservation a few days in advance. Open: every day, 12 pm-12 am Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mh., Kemankeş Cd. 37/A

Thrace lamb and dry-aged beef are the mains dishes and a must try. It is best enjoyed with pilaf or spicy fruit compote. Open: every day, 12 pm – 3 am. 4 pm – 12 am Kemankes Kara Mustafa PasaMah Kemankeş Cd. 57-59

dishes. Istanbul locals who value novelties who come to this restaurant order wheat porridge with cherry preserve followed by eggplant ravioli with plain yoghurt and spicy sausage with pea garnish.

YENI LOCANDA, Beyoğlu Newly Presented Anatolia

Chef Civan Er’s goal is to naturally connect modern tastes with the exoticism of traditional Anatolian

The restaurant’s new, renovated approach attracts all of Istanbul’s gourmands. However, it’s not all just about an unforgettable taste of the dishes: the signature cocktails are really works of art. Tomtom Mahallesi, Kumbaracı Ykş. No:66, 34433 Beyoğlu

ALANCHA, Beşiktaş

ÇORBA EVI, Karaköy

Modern Anatolian

Soups

Chef Kemal Demirasal offers you the most delicious classical dishes from Anatolian cuisine at the Maçka Residence. Each recipe is special, with ideal aromas and unique presentation; this is an unforgettable sensory experience. The original and varied textures and aromas make it an unforgettable dinner.

This small soup kingdom is open every day of the week for 24 hours a day. Every day, the soups are prepared and the recipes changed according to the weather and the season. Normally, they offer 8-10 soups. We recommend the black cabbage and tarhana soups.

Open: every day, 6:30-2 am. Closed on Sundays.

Vişnezade Mahallesi, Şht. Mehmet Sk. No:9 36 VOYAGER 10/2018

Mumhane Caddesi No.35/A, Karaköy

R E S TA U R A N T S / I S TA N B U L

LUCCA, Bebek Best Cocktails

ANTICA LOCANDA,

Beşiktaş

Italian cuisine

Antica Locanda is beautifully decorated dining room where you can taste the best quality Italian cuisine. The restaurant is located in the Arnavutköy district along a romantic, cobblestoned street near the Greek cathedral. It charms with its atmosphere, delicacies and service. The list of dishes is not so large, but all of them are flawless. Unlike other Italian restaurants, the menu strikes an ideal balance between pasta, pizza and main dishes. Make sure you try the meal of the day. The wine list offers Turkish and Italian brands.

NEOLOKAL, Beyoglu Modern Anatolian

Maksut Aşkar aimed to present Anatolian cuisine from each region in a new light and was successful at surprising gourmands with his modern, delicious dishes. The restaurant is located in the same premises as SALT Galata, though it was completely renovated

RECOMMENDED DISHES: FRESH BURRATA CHEESED WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES AND WHITE TRUFFLE OIL; SHRIMP COCKTAIL; HOMEMADE TAGLIATELLE PASTA AND TOMATO CREAMY SAUCE SALMON; CARAMELIZED CHICKEN BREAST WITH RASPBERRY SAUCE; GRILLED BEEF WITH BRANDY, GREEN FIG JAM AND GORGONZOLA SAUCE.

This bar located on the street corner is a favorite place to gather for young people of the Bebek district: it is similar to a disco where dancing (sometimes even on a table) often lasts till two in the morning.

kitchen does not close until midnight and the walls are covered by the works of local artists. Open: every day, 10pm - 2am Bebek Mh. Cevdet Paşa Cd. 51/A

It is true that Lucca is a lively bar but there is always a casual spirit; the

FERAHFEZA,

Beyoğlu

Breathtaking View

Open: Tuesday - 6:30 am-11:30 pm; Wednesday - Sunday – 12 pm-2:30 pm, 6:30 pm-11 pm. Arnavutköy Mahallesi, Satış Meydanı Sk. No:12

and was renovated after the “Ottoman Bank” was located there. Try to get the table by the ceiling-to-floor window and while you get acquainted with modern Turkish cuisine, enjoy unforgettable views of the old town of the city. Open: Tuesday - Saturday – 7 pm – 2 am; Closed on Sundays and Mondays. Arap Cami Mahallesi, Bankalar Cd. No:11

TOI, Beşiktaş Signature Dishes

If you visit once, you would like you to go back again. Chef Işmet Saz has proved his mastery in Gordon Ramsey’s kitchen. Every dish is made using Saz’s recipes - even the bread and butter. Toi ages meat so the steak here is prepared by the restaurant team from the beginning to the end. Saz’s favorite is beef wellington. The octopus salad is light and aromatic, and the hot chocolate dessert is the ideal end to your dinner. Open: Monday-Saturday from 7 pm – 2 am; Closed on Sundays. Kuruçeşme Mahallesi, Kuruçeşme Cd. No:11

38 VOYAGER 10/2018

Besides the best cuisine, this restaurant is distinguished by the view of the Galata Tower and Sultanahmet Square. Chef Ozhan Sivetoglu’s signature dishes are modern and always tailored to the situation - be it fried octopus, beans with mushrooms, finely chopped fried liver, shrimp and other sea foods. The roof is open in the summer and guests can drink and dine under the stars. Open: every day- 6 pm – 2 am Kemankeş Karamustafa Paşa Mahallesi, Kemankeş Cd. No:31

BARS / İ S TA N B U L

KÜLHANBEYI Beyoğlu

Hidden behind a thick velvet curtain in the basement of a restaurant, Külhanbeyi is one of the most distinct cocktail bars in Istanbul. The atmosphere of the 1920s is recreated through the decor and furniture, carefully selected in Istanbul flea markets and antique stores. This bar takes its name from the people who worked machinery in the railway coal rooms supplying energy to Istanbul’s first subway. The cocktails are truly remarkable. Open: every day, 6pm - 2am

EFENDI

MITTE

Şişli

Karaköy

The favorite bar of Teşvikiye district residents, Efendi is always full at the weekend. Customers often spill into the street with their cocktails. The interior is a mix of the antique and retro, and the music is mainly jazz, funk and soul. Behind the bar, renowned bartender Uğur Tekebaş mixes various delicious drinks and creates signature cocktails, adding a herbal twist to classic recipes.

Opened by famous mixologist Taner Özkan, who previously worked in the UK and Norway, this bar creates signature cocktails. Most of them are rich in herbal and fruit aromas. In the near future, the bartender plans to extend the menu with smoked and molecular gastronomy-based cocktails. The local version of the classic Negroni cocktail impresses very much. Recommended cocktails: Siberian Satsuma, Matruşka Open: Monday-Sunday, 10am -1am

Open: Monday-Saturday, 4pm -2am Hacı Emin Efendi Sokak, No 28/A

Necatibey Caddesi No.66/A, Karaköy

NEU X COLONIE Karaköy

Neu X Colonie is an integral part of Istanbul’s nightlife and after its renovation is now also a gastropub. It is a popular and alternative meeting place, its menu consisting of local beers and classical cocktails prepared by mixologist Cevat Yildirim. Its food offering covers all the latest trends. There is a dance floor, and local DJs present club nights from Thursday to Saturday. Kemankeş Caddesi No.87/A, Karaköy

Asmali Mescit, General Yazgan Sokak, No 3B

FINN KARAKÖY

ALEXANDRA

ANY

LUZIA

Karaköy

Bebek

To get established in the Karaköy district, bars must offer customers something unique. Finn Karaköy perfectly fullfils this criterion with its own signature cocktails and snacks. The works of mixologists and one of the bar’s owners Onurcan Gençer are showcased in a menu of 14 cocktails, most of which are tequila based.

The cozy interior of Alexandra, one of the most popular bars in Istanbul, is rich in wood elements. The menu is short and precise, with a list of nine signature cocktails, including Amor Duro. The latter has brought victory to Alexandra bartender Baycan at the Tahona Society cocktail contest. Alexandra is trying to earn the title of best cocktail bar in the city and is moving rapidly in the right direction.

The best bistro in the Arnavutköy district turns into the best bar at night, where the flow of people ordering drinks is unending. When you notice a beautiful Ottoman style building above, you will know you are in ANY. A wide selection of beer and local cocktails is available. Most importantly, the quality of the live music performed by the DJs is as high as that of the drinks. Open: Monday-Friday, 9am -2am

The Turkish branch of Berlin’s Luzia bar is distinguished by a large marble lion sculpture at the entrance. A unique floor, retro furniture and an old piano on the second floor clearly point to the Berlin origins of the bar. A café operates during the day, while at night the bar on the upper floor is an ideal place to try perfectly prepared cocktails. Open: every day, 8am – 2am

Recommended cocktails: Sour Queen, Dream Quest Open: Monday-Sunday, 11am - 2am Arapoğlan Sokak No.8/B

Open: every day, 9am -1am Bebek Arnavutköy Caddesi No. 50

Bebek Caddesi No.71/A

39 VOYAGER 10/2018

Arnavutköy Bebek Caddesi No.64

BREAKFAST / İ S TA N B U L KALE,

Rumeli Hisarı

The “Kale” is a classic Istanbul breakfast venue. Its interior is not very impressive, but the breakfast itself and the view of Bosporus are among the best. If you want to have a real Turkish breakfast, you should visit this place. We suggest you order Serpme Kahvaltı, which includes fried halloumi, tomato salad, olives, a choice of cheese, cream and honey, and Turkish scrambled eggs with sujuk seasoning. You can also order menemen. Open: 5am -9pm Yahya Kemal Caddesi 10

TRADITIONAL SUNDAY BREAKFAST IS USUALLY CONSUMED WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS. MOST RESTAURANTS ALONG THE BOSPORUS IN ISTANBUL ARE USUALLY PACKED BY 10AM, ESPECIALLY ON SUNDAY. FOLLOWING SUNDAY BREAKFAST, MANY ISTANBUL LOCALS, ESPECIALLY RESIDENTS OF THE ASIAN SIDE, TAKE A SEASIDE STROLL.

KIVA, Galata

This restaurant serving Anatolian cuisine has taken cover in the shadow of the Galata tower and is considered the best place for early morning visitors. Their special breakfast is delicious, but we would advise trying the local menemen. Open: 9am -11:30pm Galata Kulesi Meydanı No:4

SAVOY PASTANESI

Cihangir

Some places become district landmarks in their own right: Savoy Pastanesı, opened in 1950, is among them. The two-story shop has changed over time, but everything prepared here is fresh and new. The local delights will bring joy to your taste buds, like the famous Savoy breakfast, which attracts Cihangir gourmands. This breakfast – with its cheese, jam, honey and Kaymak, tomatoes and cucumbers, olives and aromatic bread – is unmatched. Open: 7am -11pm Sıraselviler Caddesi no. 91A

A TRADITIONAL TURKISH BREAKFAST FOR TWO WILL COST AROUND 60 TRY.

MANGERIE,

Besiktas

Bebek (meaning “child” in Turkish) is one of the most breathtaking and luxurious districts of Istanbul, known for its wooden palaces and park leading to the Bosphorus. Mangerie is one of the favorite places of the refined dwellers of this district, who like to stop here for breakfast after a morning jog. Don’t be afraid of the twisting staircase and go up to the roof, where you will be served in the best possible way. It is a special pleasure to sip coffee after breakfast on an open balcony watching the dark silhouettes of enormous tankers on the horizon. Open: 8am -12.30pm Cevdet Paşa Caddesi 69

Breakfast is a special phenomenon in Turkey. Apart from being a family ritual, it also is an integral part of an orderly nutrition system. Turkish breakfast consists of scrambled eggs and sausage (sucuk or pastirma), a choice of cheese and olives, cucumber and tomato salad, simit with sesame seeds and thin lavash bread. Eggs can be prepared in various ways: boiled, scrambled in sahan - a small pan - or in the form of Menemen. Menemen comprises eggs stewed with tomatoes and red and green peppers. Another popular morning dish is Mihlama, called Kuymak in some regions. It comprises several types of cheese dipped in corn flour and fried. The most common sausages for breakfast are sucuk, which are like spicy salami, and pastirma, which is beef cured in various spices. Turks prefer to have freshly brewed tea in the morning.

40 VOYAGER 10/2018

You can find profiteroles in many countries, but they are especially tasty in Turkey. A thin and airy dough pastry, similar to that of éclairs, filled with confectioner’s crème. The Turkish version stands out with a generous topping of chocolate and hazelnuts. The best profiteroles can be found in Saray Muhallebicisi 1935. Istiklal Cd. No: 173 Beyoglu KARAKÖY GÜLLÜĞLU Baklava

This café has been offering the best baklava in Istanbul since 1949. The interior decoration will remind you that this delicious dessert, dipped in aromatic syrup and stuffed with chopped walnuts, was created in the kitchen of Topkapi Palace in the 17th century. Some 70,000 baklava are prepared daily in Karaköy Güllüğlu, with exceptional mastery and sweetness. Open: 7am - 11pm; Sundays 8am -11:30 Rıhtım Caddesi, Katlı Otopark Altı, 3-4, Karaköy KOSKA HELVACISI Halva, Candy

This Turkish delight is a sweet made of granulated tahini. Turks love having it as a dessert after dinner, especially after sea food dishes, or spreading it thinly on bread for breakfast. Koska is a wonderful place to try a wide selection of Pekmez (fruit syrup), Rahat Lokum and Fınfıklı Cezerye (carrot jelly with hazelnut and coconut). Open: 8:30am -10.00pm Yeniçeriler Caddesi no. 55/A, Beyazıt

DRINKS

COFFEE

SALEP

Turkish coffee and its method of preparation are famous. Coffee beans are roasted and ground, then mixed with water and sugar and slowly brewed in a cezve coffee pot. It is then poured into small cups, where the grounds settle on the bottom. Every cup is made individually. One of the distinguishing features of Turkish coffee is that you don’t touch the grounds – they are only used for predicting the future. A well-prepared Turkish coffee has a thick foam on the surface. It is enjoyed after dinner or during tea breaks and in chaikhana tea houses. IT SOMETIMES COMES WITH A GLASS OF WATER OR A LITTLE DESSERT, AND YOU CAN ORDER IT BLACK (SADE), SLIGHTLY SWEET (AZ ŞEKERLI), SWEET (ORTA ŞEKERLI) OR VERY SWEET (ŞEKERLI).

KURUKAHVECI MEHMET EFENDI Coffee lovers will appreciate Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi, which is located by the Spice Bazaar and has been preparing coffee since 1871. Open: 07.00-19.00 Tahmis Sokak no. 66 Eminönü KRONOTROP COFFEE BAR & ROASTERY

Salep is a sweet, traditional Turkish drink that is especially pleasant in the winter

AYRAN cold. It is mainly made from orchid roots, and milk and cinnamon are added.

Şıra Şıra is made from grape or apple juice, and due to the large amount of fructose, it is very sweet.

MANDABATMAZ

LIMONATA

This is one of Istanbul’s most authentic coffee houses. In Mandabamaz, coffee beans are roasted on site and each cup of black coffee has a wonderful, unique flavor. You can order tea as well, which is served from huge samovars. Istiklal Caddesi Olivya Istiklal Caddesi Olivya Geçidi No.1/A İstiklal

Here, coffee is made in a novel-shaped coffee pots, and you will immediately be able to tell the difference in quality. KuloğluMh. Firuzağa Cami Sk. No:4, 34433 Cihangir

Ayran is a mixture of fresh yoghurt, water and salt, and it is a fantastic sauce for grilled meat. The best ayran is manufactured in the Susurluk region. The region is so proud about this that it holds an ayran celebration every September. Best served cold!

Limonata has a yellowish color and a pleasant fragrance and taste. To prepare this drink, lemons are peeled, pressed, sweetened and, finally, juiced.

BOZA Boza is made by fermenting wheat, corn or millet. It usually contains 1% alcohol and has a sweet or sour flavor. Cinnamon and sugar are added sometimes, which turn the drink yellowish. It is mainly drunk in winter.

COMMENT

WHAT CANNOT BE DONE IN TURKEY:

ŞALGAM

•

Refusing the offer of tea, coffee or dessert is impolite.

•

Drinking alcohol openly in the daytime during Ramadan is not forbidden (as opposed to many other Muslim countries) but is a sign of disrespect to local culture.

•

Holding your glass higher than your companion’s when toasting is considered insolent.

Şalgam is made from black turnip and purple carrot. It is served in big cups with a kind of pickled carrot. It goes well with kebabs. Some drink vodka with it to soften the flavor.

41 VOYAGER 10/2018

SERBET Serbet is a cold drink with a sweet, fruity fragrance. Ingredients include lemon, rose and pomegranate.

BALIK PAZARI

LA CAVE

Traditional Fish Market

This fish market in the heart of Beşiktaş is exceptionally popular and is always crowded; it is a protest against the supermarket networks. With the gradual expansion of the market, architects have erected a concrete and iron construction at GAD & Gökhan Avcıoğlu, under which there are fish stalls. Balık Pazarı is impressive and elegant. The structure is a symbol of the market - it is open to everyone, regardless of their origin.

Excellent Alcoholic Drinks

This enormous wine cellar features carefully selected wines and alcoholic beverages that you will struggle to find in other stores. It offers everything – high-quality alcoholic beverages, wines and champagne. In La Cave, you can find Turkish Kavaklıdere or Paşaeli, Johnny Walker Black Label whiskey, Cristal 1999 champagne or Gran PatronBurdeos tequila. Open: 10am-9 pm; Sunday – 1 pm – 7 pm Sıraselviler Caddesi no. 109, Cihangir;

Sinanpaşa Mahallesi, Mumcu Bakkal Sokak, Beşiktaş

SUVLA-KILYE

TUNÇ BALIKÇILIK

Fish

Lakerda is one of the most important mezzes in Turkish cuisine. This pickled bonito dish preserved in sea water is part of local culinary culture from Greek and Ottoman times. The owner of Tunç Balıkçılık thinks that the best Lakerda is made from a larger size bonito. Tunç is the name of the man who opened this store in 1959 and passed his secret recipe on to his grandson – the reason why gourmands have been visiting Tunç Balıkçılık for decades. Open: 8 am – 7:30 pm; closed on Sundays. Dudu Odaları Sokak 10

KÜRŞAT Artisan Products

The Kürşat family originates from Crete where the best olive oil is prepared. The famous black, green and pink olives come directly from their plots to the store shelves. Open: 10 am-8 pm; closed on Sundays. Şakayık Sokağı no. 75/B

ANTRE GOURMET SHOP Local Cheese

This is a true paradise for cheese lovers; it offers 40 varieties of Turkish cheese. You will also see olives, olive oil, homemade jams and other local products on the small shelves. Open: 9 am – 9 pm. Sundays till 8 pm.s Akarsu Yokuşu no. 40

Wine, Oil, Canned Goods

Suvla-Kılye offers unexpected combinations of delicacies and Turkish wines. Here products are sold in glass and tin canned jars, and with them - Turkish breakfast components, such as green olive paste, hot pepper sauces acuka, olive oils from different regions and even olive jam. Open: 10:30 am-8 pm; Sunday – 12 pm -6 pm Lenger Sokak 2, Cihangir

ASRI TURŞUCU Turşu is a method of preparation of seasonal pickled vegetables. Turşucu is a family business Asrı which started in 1913. Here you will find all kinds of pickled produce cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes, eggplants and legumes. Lemon juice is used in the preparation of each product. You will be offered turşu suyu, meaning pickling juice, as well as pomegranate mash and pickled green plums. Open: 8:30 am-8:30 pm; Sunday – 12 pm-7 pm (closed in July and August). Kuloğlu Mahallesiö Ağa Hamamı Caddesi 9

MISIR ÇARŞISI The Egyptian spice bazaar in Sultanahmet has been selling medicinal herbs and seasoning since 1660. You will find the most delicious desserts and other delightful snacks in the main pavilion. The legendary restaurant Pandeli is located in the north wing under the metal domes, where

42 VOYAGER 10/2018

Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, Lev Trotsky and Agatha Christie once dined. Open: every day 8am-7 pm Rüstem Paşa Mahallesi, Erzak Ambarı Sok. No:92, 34116 Fatih

MARKETS / İ S TA N B U L

K A PA L I Ç A R Ş I 4,000 shopping spots are located on 61 streets of Kapalıçarşı (the Grand Bazaar) – one of the world’s largest, most ancient and celebrated bazaars. Half a million people visit it every day. The bazaar is usually divided into several parts according to the goods on sale. There are six basic departments. Jewelry is sold in Kalpakcılar Caddesi, Gold in Kuyumcular Carsısı, Furniture in Divrikli Caddesi, Carpets in Sahaflar Caddesi, Leather in Perdahçılar Caddesi and Leather Accessories and Clothing Bit Pazarı. The construction of the two sealed bedestens commenced in 1453 on the order of Sultan Mehmed. Goods were sold from around the world, financial transactions were made, and banks and exchanges operated there during the Ottoman era. In 1545, the new Sandal Bedesten was built on the order of Suleiman, and trade streets gradually formed between the old and the new, where there was a slave trade in the nineteenth century. The 1890 Grand Bazaar included 4,399 stalls, 2 bedestens, 2,195 rooms, a hammam, a mosque, 10 madrasa, 19 fountains and even a mausoleum. The complex covered 30 hectares. Open: Every day, except Sunday – 9 am-7 pm; closed on holiday.

C O MME N T

Bargaining in Turkish bazaars is possible and sometimes even necessary if you don’t want to offend a seller. Discounts are guaranteed if you have a good sense of communication and benevolence. The seller won’t loose money, even if he/she lowers the amount three times. So, bargain boldly. Observe where the locals are buying and buy whatever you desire in that store.

Mh., 34126 Fatih

KAFKAS

ZEYNEP EROL JEWELRY Jewelry made in Istanbul has been famous since ancient times. Generations of jewelers reside in the city. Their work is acquired by royal family members and famous movie stars around the world. Istanbul Zeinap Eroli is one of the city’s most expensive and celebrated jewelers. Open: 10 am-6:30 pm

Founded in 1950, Kafkas is still a family business. The company has five stores in Istanbul, including in “Istinia Park” mall. Most of the “Kafkas” items are adorned with diamonds – even rare yellow diamonds. Their works are a continuation of the Ottoman goldsmith tradition. İSTİNYE PARK; VIP Kat: 1 No: 35 Sarıyer

Teşvikiye Mh. Atiye Sok. Yuva Apt. No:8/3 K:1, 34365 Şişli

ANGEL GOLD Angel Gold jewelry is located in the Grand Bazaar; it is worth visiting if you love jewelry. This small shop is full of beautiful bracelets, rings and earrings. The jewelry is made with a special aging method and gives every item a vintage feel and thus makes the jewelry’s delicate design even more effective. Beyazıt Mh., Kılıççılar Sok. Çuhacı Han No:36, 34126 Fatih

43 VOYAGER 10/2018

BEYMEN

Beymen offers only the best items from the world of fashion.

ISTINYEPARK

300 stores are situated in this 270 000 sq.m. shopping center. Besides the best shopping, you can also have fun, relax, and eat: there are 12 movie theatres, some of Istanbul’s wonderful restaurants, and the best cafes - all located in the one space.

Dior, Saint Laurent, Valentino, Celine, Stella McCartney, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, Balenciaga, Dsquared2, Bottega Veneta and Chloé, which Beymen exports to Turkey. Beymen’s own brands are the Beymen Collection, Academia, Beymen Home, Beymen Kids are among more than 700 brands. Here you’ll find home accessories and jewelry and the highest quality cosmetics - everything luxurious.

Many well-known brands are presented here, from Chanel and Dior to H&M and Benetton – too many to list. Just know that if you decide to shop, you must visit Istinyepark.

Beymen offers the best shopping experience: employees speak perfect English and will help you in the shop and in your hotel. Other services of the brand include a VIP service in VIP rooms, exchange of items on the same day and special discount cards. Beymen İstinyePark İstinyepark AVM İstinye Bayırı Cad. No:73 - İstinye

It’s about 30 minutes away from the center without traffic jams.

Beymen Nişantaşı Abdi İpekçi Caddesi No:23/1 - Nişantaş

Pınar Mahallesi, Katar Cd No:73 34460 Sarıyer

Beymen Zorlu Center Zorlu Alışveriş Merkezi - Zincirlikuyu

ZORLU CENTER

The avant-garde design, large café, bar and terrace restaurant with the largest choice of world brands make Zorlu the main location for shopping in Istanbul. The concept of the center includes a business center, residential area skyscraper with fantastic views of the Bosporus and old Istanbul and the super-comfortable five-star hotel Raffles. There is a very interesting contemporary art gallery in Zorlu with unique acoustics. World-class orchestras perform here. It has hosted many Broadway shows as well. A large glass cube is set up for Apple fans in the center of the complex and it is the most interesting place for Apple lovers – in fact, it’s akin to a place of worship. Do not leave Zorlu without a trip to the well-known Italian market EATALY, where you can buy a lot of Italian products, taste real Italian pasta and drink the best Italian coffee.

store is located on the second floor where you can find luxury brands such as Balmain, Dsquared2, Dior, Rick Owens, Dries Van Notten, Lanvin, Alexander Wang, Neil Barret, Valentino, Burberry, Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Prada, Saint Laurent, Miu, Bvlgari, Moncler, Emilio Pucci, Brooks & Brothers, Lanvin, Stella McCartney, Tory Burch, Fendi, Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Roberto Cavalli, Fendi, Max & Co., Sevan Bıçakçı, Sponza, Tiffany & Co., Urart, All Saints, The Kooples, Cos, H&M, Zara, Beymen Club, GAP, Gant, İpekyol, Lacoste, Superdry, Network, Koton and Pinko. Open: every day 10 am-10 pm Zorlu Alışveriş Merkezi - Zincirlikuyu

The Zorlu Center has more than 250 stores but, most importantly, Beymen 44 VOYAGER 10/2018

ANAYI 313

This concept store is located between various garages and workshops. It offers dinner and the help of a shopping curator. It is located in a post-industrial environment, away from the central roads. A small restaurant and a shop where Enis Karavil furniture, modern items, highclass accessories and hand-made leather bags are sold are located in this space. Enjoy a delicious lunch at the restaurant on the terrace. The menu features salads, baked goods, light dishes and desserts, including chocolate and caramel tart with sea salt. Maslak Mahallesi, 10. Sk. Atatürk Oto Sanayi Bölgesi No: 313

SHOPPING / I S TA N B U L

several branches in the city. The name “Vakko” is associated with high quality and expensive products. Along with hats, this fashion house offers shoes, bags, scarves and accessories. You can also order analogues of famous celebrity dresses in the atelier. Vakko also produces its own exclusive chocolate. VAKKO

Turkey’s first luxury brand was created by Vitali Hakko in 1934. The hat shop changed its name to “Vakko” and is now one of the most famous and successful local brands today. The first store opened in 1962 and now has

Open: every day at 10 am – 10 pm Zorlu Center, Levazım Mahallesi, Koru Sokağı No:2, 34340 Beşiktaş

VAKKO WEDDING

The collection of world-renowned fashion brand’s wedding dresses creates a wonderful atmosphere in this store. You can find such brands as Oscar De La Renta, Vera Wang, Emanuel Ungaro, Elie Saab. Designers of Vakko Wedding take special orders for exclusive bridal, bridesmaid and family member dresses. Open: 10 am – 10 pm Bağdat Cad. No:438/a Kadıköy/suadiye 34740 Kadıköy

TRUPROJECT

Project is an interesting concept store for both men and women. It is especially popular among fashion lovers for its colorful T-shirts. Here you can buy cashmere sweaters, sports pants, swim suits and many other things.

NAKKAS ORIENTAL RUGS & TEXTILES

A wide choice distinguishes this brand from other textile and carpet stores. Here you can find the finest silk, interior items and antique carpets from Central Asia, Anatolia and Persia. Open: 9 am – 9 pm Sultan Ahmet Mahallesi, Nakilbent Sok. No:13, 34122 Fatih HIC

Though Hic translates as “nothing”, it offers a more diverse choice than the ever-popular Ikea. Hic is an interior design house-workshop and presents a wide range of furniture that is saturated with modernity but includes traditional elements also. Moving metal tables, ceramic mugs with antique coloring, leather ottomans and beautiful couches and sofas are created by designers from Turkey, the Middle East and Africa (African designers actively cooperate with the Hic team). Open: everyday 11 am -7 pm Hacımimi Mahallesi, Lüleci Hendek Cd. No:35, 34425 Beyoğlu

Bebek Mh., Küçük Bebek Cd. 11A

ATELIER REBUL

TAJI

Sweet-flavored liquid kolonya is an integral attribute of every Turkish home. It has the scent of lemon, honey, jasmine, magnolia, rose and lavender and is kept in a decorative flask.

In 1998, at the age of 26, Tacettin Şeker founded his first atelier in Istanbul, which now has branches in many cities around the world. One of the last branches was opened in Manhattan.

The liquid made of water, alcohol and aromatizer is used for cleaning the air, as a perfume, to cure headache, and sometimes as an antiseptic due to its alcohol content. The tradition of kolonya originates from the Ottoman Empire era.

Taji is a favorite brand for both politicians and fashionable men.

The Atelier Rebul offers the best quality luxurious Turkish aromas.

You can individually order anything from a jacket to a swimming suit in the atelier located in the Nisantaşı area. You can also buy pre-made products. Open: 10 am-8 pm Harbiye Mahallesi Abdi İpekçi Cd. 6-8, 34365 Şişli 45 VOYAGER 10/2018

MIDNIGHT EXPRESS

In 2008, two friends opened a small concept store that became so popular that it soon became a network brand. The shop is made of ready-made clothes for men and women. The boutique also offers luxurious accessories and decorative lines designed by Turkish designers. Open: 10:30 am-5:30 pm Bebek Mh., Küçük Bebek Cad. No:3/A 34342 Beşiktaş

ქარვისფერი ოდისეა THE AMBER-COLORED ODYSSEY

ADVETORIAL

„ჰენესის ახსნა შეუძლებელია, მას უბრალოდ უნდა ჩასწვდე“, _ ასე გვიხასიათებენ კონიაკის სახლის მესვეურები მათი კოლექციის ყველაზე პრესტიჟულ ალკოჰოლურ სასმელს „Richard Hennessey“-ს, რომელიც ბრენდის “Hennessy cannot be explained. It simply დამფუძ must სახელს ერთი დიდი be ნებლის understood” – this ატარებს is how theდა leaders of the მოგზაურობის _ წარსულსა და აწმყოს შორის cognac house describe “Richard Hennessy”, the უწყვეტი დიალოგის შესახებ მოგვითხრობს.

most prestigious alcoholic beverage in their collection. Namedესafter the კი founder of the მოგზაურობის ამბავი ოკეანის გადა brand, “Richard Hennessey” tells of a long ლახვით დაიწყო: სამი საუკუნის წინათjourკაცმა, neyსახელად – one thatრიჩარდ fosters a continuous ჰენესიმ, dialogue მშობლიური between the past and the present. ირლანდიური ზღვისპირა სოფელი მიატოვა და საფრანგეთის ნაპირებს მიადგა ფრანგთა ლუიbegan XVისwith არმიაში ჩასაწერად. თუმცა Thisმეფის, journey the crossing of the ის ისტორიას არა მილიტარისტული ocean: three centuries ago a man namedკარიერის Richარამედ ერთერთ ყველაზე ardგამო, Hennessy left მსოფლიოში his native seaside Irish village ცნობილ კონიაკად მიჩნეული დიდი ბრენდის and arrived on the shores of France to enlist დამაარსებლის სახელით შემორჩა. into the French army of King Louis XV. However, he რიჩარდ is knownჰენესი today not to his military ერთdue დღესაც კონიაკისcareer მხარეს, butსაფრანგეთის as the founderსამხრეთ-დასავლეთ of one of the most notable ვენახებს cognac the world. Eau de vie (ფრ. ეწვიაbrands და in ადგილობივი „სიცოცხლის წყალი“) _ სპირტები დააგემოვნა. დაday, თუმცა მისი Hennessy განცდებისvisited შესახებ One Richard theწყაროები vineბევრს გვეუბნება, თავისუფლად yards of the არაფერს Cognac region in the south-west of შეგვიძლია რომ იმ მისთვის France and triedვივარაუდოთ, the local Eau de Vie (“Water of იღბლიან დღეს ჰენესი ალბათ სითბოს Life”) spirits. Though there are no records of his მონატრებული ჩრდილოელის სიხარბით response, we can imagine that on this lucky day, მიეფიცხა სამხრეთის მზეს და ისეთი ვნებით Hennessy, the avidity of a warmth-deprived დაეწაფაwith„სიცოცხლის წყალს“, როგორი

სიმძაფრეც მხოლოდ ომგამოვლილებს შეუძ ლიათ განიცადონ სიცოცხლით ტკბობისას.

დანამდვილებით ისიც ვიცით, რომ ირლანდი ელ ოფიცერს წარ northerner, hurriedაზროვნებისა to embrace და the საქმის southern ის upმასშტაბები აღმოაჩნდა, ზღვის sunმოების and drunk the “Water of Life” with a pasგაზრდილ ბიჭუნებს ბუნებრივად sionპირეთში that only those who have gone through a რომ დაჰყვებათ ხოლმე: მათ, ვინც არასდროს war can appreciate in their enjoyment of life. უშინდება უსასრულო ჰორიზონტებს და ვის თვისაც ყველა დიდი თავგადასავალი იალქ What we გემის knowერთი for sure is that thisიწყება. Irish officer ნიანი გადაცურვით had the scope of planning and business executionჰენესიმ that only brought up at the seaside 1765boys წელს კონიაკის საწარმო დააარ სა დაhave: ალკოჰოლური ვაჭრობას naturally they never სასმლით fear the infinite hori- შე წელს and კი ის zonუდგა, ahead1794 of them forუკვე themახლად every შექმნილ great შეერთებულ შტატებში ექსპორტზე. adventure begins with a singleგაიტანა trip on a sail boat. 1819 წელს ქარვისფერი სასმელი ინდოეთში როკო ირემაშვილი გადის გასაყიდად, 1855 წლიდან _ ავსტრალი Hennessy founded a cognac house in 1765 აში, 1859 წლიდან კი _ ჩინეთში და შორეულ andაღმოსავლეთში began selling alcoholic beverages. ფრანგული კულტურის ელჩის Rocko Iremashvili როლს ითავსებს. მას მერე კონიაკი მთელ By 1794, he was already exporting his products მსოფლიოში მოგზაურობს და ყოველწლიურად to the newly established States. In 1819, 120ზე მეტ ქვეყანაშიUnited 60 მილიონი ბოთლი იყიდება.drink became available in the„ჰენესი“ amber-colored India; from 1855 in Australia; and from 1859 the “HENNESSY „ჰენესის 2017 acted წელსas„ჰენესის National Geocognac a French სახლი“ culture ambassador CANNOT BE graphicთან მორიგofთავგადასავალში ახსნა to China and in ერთად the countries the Far East. ჩაება და „აბრეშუმის გზის ოდისეა“ წამოიწ EXPLAINED. IT Since then, the cognac has been travelling the შეუძლებელია, ყო. პროექტის ინსპირაციის წყაროა, ერთი world, selling 60 million bottles of in over 120 SIMPLY MUST BE მას უბრალოდ მხრივ, კონიაკის სპირტების ოსტატის _ ემილ countries UNDERSTOOD.” ფილუსannually. მიერ მე18 საუკუნეში შექმნილი უნდა ჩასწვდე“

This is how Hennessy Brand Ambassador Guillaume de Guitaut explains the goal of this project: “What drove us to repeat the antique route was the desire to share the cultures, ideas and experience. This project also serves as a sharing space for the beauty of cult Hennessy X.O. drink, whose seven aromas inspired artists living in the cities along the historic route to create seven art pieces. It’s astonishing to see how an artwork can be so symbolically connected to different ideas and materials. “

In 2017, the “House of Hennessy” joined National Geographic in yet another adventure and launched the “Silk Road Odyssey”. The source of inspiration for the project, was firstly, H e nnessy X . O. ( E xtra O l d), a d r ink c r eated by master of cognac spirits Emil Fillioux in the 18th century, which has retained its special taste for centuries, and secondly, one of the world’s oldest trade routes, the Great Silk Road. The project is set around the sacral number seven: the journey includes seven cities of the historic route and symbolizes the seven chapters of Hennessy XO’s aroma palette: flowing flame, chocolate lull, rising hit, wood crunches, spicy edge, sweet notes and infinite echo.

The Georgian presentation of the project was held on the 14th of November in the Zurab Tsereteli Modern Art Museums. During the presentation, guests were able to see the “The Equilibrium” piece by Rocko Iremashvili, which was inspired by Richard Hennessy, the founder of the house of Hennessy and Emil Fillioux.

No one knows exactly when the Silk Road appeared. Known as “the world’s first m e ans o f communication”, it is a complex scheme of interconnecting routes stretching east to west and north to south of Eurasia.

In the 18th century, an Irish officer and a French master of spirits exchanged experiences and ideas and thus laid the basis for a great journey. The Silk Road legends themselves were created not only through the trading of goods but through the exchange of ideas and stories: strange tales about different religions, customs, cultures, and inventions shared by brave merchants during rest stops in caravanserai along the great journey.

The lands of the Far East conjure up ideas of mighty or weakened empires, adventurous journeys through uninhabited steppes and mountain valleys, and the unheard of treasures – silk, precious stones, porcelain, foreign crafts and spices. The Silk Road entices a flow of fascinating facts and allusions. The stories of innumerable people come together here; some changed their fate by venturing off t heir p aths a nd s ome w ere l ost forever. Despite that, their efforts were often the very first attempt at dialogue – the first meeting of different c u ltures a n d r e ligions a n d a defeat of xenophobia for the first time. The “Hennessy House” project in the 21st century is nothing more than a dialogue between the East and the West. The company invited seven artists from the Silk Road cities to its premises in Cognac - Burcak Bingol (Istanbul, Turkey), Victor Syrnev (Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan), Rashad Alakbarov (Baku, Azerbaijan), Rocko Iremashvili (Tbilisi, Georgia), Vyacheslav Useinov (Fergana, Uzbekistan), Ashkat Akhmedyarov (Astana, Kazakhstan) and Yin Xiuzhen (Beijing, China). There the company shared its history, while the artists, after returning to their homes, were to create one piece of art each.

pikanturi zRvari

THE JOURNEY INCLUDES SEVEN CITIES OF THE HISTORIC ROUTE AND SYMBOLIZES THE SEVEN CHAPTERS OF HENNESSY XO’S AROMA PALETTE.

mzardi mxurvaleba

xis istoria

tkbili notebi

mwveli ali

usasrulo eqo

Sokoladis xaverdovneba

COUNTRY

FROM THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE TO TURKEY AKA MORCHILADZE There is one story about the tormented King Teymuraz I who was persecuted by the Persians. He left Imerti and settled in the Gonio fortress. So, he decided to go to the Sultan. This is how life always went in Georgia – two destroyers and torturers always threatened it, the Persians and the Ottomans, who were also in conflict with each other. Our kings tried to make the most of this animosity. Let me be yours and I will help you against them. So, he got up and left. It’s a whole other story of what came out of that help. They left and walked through the whole Ottoman Empire and came across Istanbul. Teymuraz said, we have to do one thing before we walk into the palace and present ourselves before the Sultan: let’s find a smith, collect our silver and have the silversmith make silver horseshoes; when we walk into the Topkapi stables, they will take our horses, notice that we’ve been travelling with silver horseshoes and recognize me as a king. And so they did. 50 VOYAGER 10/2018

Mehmed II commenced constructing the Topkapi palace after taking Constantinople. It took centuries to complete, beautify and expand it. The huge empire that conquered many countries for a long time was ruled from this palace. The Ottoman state began in the XII century and disturbed the Byzantine Empire and other countries. It conquered lands, sieged cities and created its own states and unique and different governance systems. This was a very big and a very belligerent country – a conqueror that walked great distances from the nomadic lands of Syr Darya to Europe until it became the motherland of East Rome. It got firmly established at a place where it decided to finally stay. This was a military and political force which reached the walls of Vienna. Wherever it went, it went with the Sunni Islam faith and established explicit political, cultural and spiritual leadership. This was accompa51 VOYAGER 10/2018

ILLUSTRATION:

THE PIRI REIS MAP PIRI REIS WAS THE OTTOMAN ADMIRAL IN THE SIXTEENTH CENTURY. HIS NAVIGATION BOOK KITAB-I BAHRIYE PROVIDES DETAILED INFORMATION AND ACCURATE MARINE MAPS WITH A DESCRIPTION OF IMPORTANT PORTS AND CITIES OF THE MEDITERRANEAN. IN 1513, HE CREATED HIS FIRST WORLD MAP BASED ON TWENTY DIFFERENT OLD MAPS AND DRAWINGS THAT HE COLLECTED. THIS IS ONE OF THE FIRST ACCURATE MAPS OF THE WORLD.

COUNTRY nied by the newly-tuned state and civil services that were perfected over centuries. This was an Empire that was destroyed in the era when empires were destroyed but battled and strived for survival until then. However, it lost the craft of great empires to conquer and annex and its governance forms became outdated as well. Thus, the new country, the Republic of Turkey was established on this huge land that was kept by the strong traditional state. Kemal Ataturk was the father of this country. The “Father of Turks” - everyone knows the direct translation of his last name. This military man had absolutely clear opinions about the advancement of his country; he changed everything that he believed was harmful to building a republic. He built the republic himself. Ataturk’s successors were loyal to his attitudes. Turkey spent much of the twentieth century in the scope of Ataturk’s philosophy: nationalism, secularity and democracy. Any detour from Ataturk’s way was corrected with an iron fist and military coups – both on the left and the right. This huge country has one nationality according to its passports but many nations. Modern Turkey is Georgia’s important neighbor, close political ally and crucial economic partner. Generally, our stories, attitudes and sentiment towards Turkey are diverse. Of course, contemporary business life and politics pushes back the forgotten past and the collective memories. Heavy war and bad peace – perhaps this is our medieval past, saturated with words such as great Turkishness, Ottomanness, Gürcistan Vilayet, Paşa of Batumi, the county of Achik Basha and so on...

TURKEY IS A BIG AND DIVERSE COUNTRY THAT IS DEVELOPING DAILY. AS HISTORY, THE OLD WORLD IS STILL ALIVE THERE, SINCE YOU CAN STILL VISIT TROY, JOURNEY TO HALICARNASSUS, WHERE HERODOTUS WROTE HIS WONDERFUL BOOK, AND, IN GENERAL, DO SO MANY THINGS HERE.

this time in history, there’s much more relief than in the past. We have many Turkeys in our memories and people like to choose the best of them. Of course, it goes both ways. If you are tired of the country’s western side with its cities on the coast of Mediterranean, come visit the most mystical and amazing Cappadocia, the land of beautiful horses, with its rocky labyrinths; get lost in the rock poems and when you get tired there, come back and stay at Ephesus, sit in the local Odeon under the burning sun, walk and walk until your eyes get exhausted. Though, if your heart wishes, go to the Antalya coast, since people from all over the word tan there. You can find the Phaselis Antique City and in every region and every part.

We remember so much: the Didgori battle, the priest Tevdore, Givi Amilakhvari standing at the Sioni gate, the return of Akhaltskihe, Muslim Georgia, our people, then Mazniashvili, Ahmed Melashvili, buying slaves, janissaries and harems, memories of one foreign doctor when he was asked to see the sultan’s Georgian mother and was prohibited from examining his female patient and thus had to give recommendations based on oral inquiry. This is history and it’s in the past, though modern times and queues at our borders and many other things point that at

Turkey was not always a tourist country; however, antiquities are not only for tourists – local people need them even more. Thus, you walk in this country as if you’re living in four or five eras. This is a great gift. Modern day Turkey is now a big tourist destination but Turkey is deep and interesting beyond tourism. Every region and city has its own authentic character and special history, and many places have their own style. Every single one of them is unique and different. Take Bursa, the first capital of the Ottoman Empire; Izmir, known for its freedom; and Bodrum, which rivals it in freedom, the old Halicarnassus. In general, telling a short story about a big country is difficult. Marco Polo’s craft to describe places he saw on the road in several sentences is not quite lost, though this is not the case, since we have still much to see, understand, experience and hence - tell.

52 VOYAGER 10/2018

53 VOYAGER 10/2018

HIST ORY

CITY AS A PALIMPSEST GIORGI MAISURADZE

A palimpsest is a piece of writing under which another piece of writing is hidden. The word came to signify superimposed writing and became a symbol of hidden meanings. Thus, a palimpsest can be used to signify cities as well. For example, Istanbul is the fourth official name of this city, which represents a palimpsest city. Visible and invisible layers of Istanbul retain key moments of European and Middle Eastern history.

Thus, by getting to this city, you commence time travel. Istanbul is the current Turkish name of the city, officially recognized in 1876 by the Constitution of the Ottoman Empire (“Istanbul city, the capital of the Ottoman State”). It is a Turkish version of the Greek expression - eis tàn pólin (“to the city”, “in the city”). This nickname, which the city had acquired in the Byzantine age, in parallel with its longest-lasting name,

Galata Bridge and a view of Pera. IMAGE: LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

54 VOYAGER 10/2018

The Yeni Cami by moonlight. IMAGE: LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Constantinople, the Greeks pronounced as Istámbolin. Greek colonists founded a town by the Bosporus in 660 BC and called it Byzantion. For more than 900 years, Byzantion was a provincial trading town of the Greeks and Persians, and finally the Romans. It could’ve been only known to historians were it not for a cardinal change in IV AD – a change that radically altered the history not only of the city but of the whole world. At that time, the Roman Empire, weakened from internal violence, was ruled by four emperors simultaneously. They fought each other for the leadership. Constantine I won this battle. He believed that one Christian god was responsible for his victory. He is also attributed with the famous phrase: “One God, One Empire, One Caesar”, which was the beginning of a new era of monotheistic religion. Constantine, who took over the entire Roman Empire in 330, decided to establish a new capital for his only god and the renewed empire. Caesar was originally looking for a place in the legendary area of Troy, since, according to Roman mythology, Trojans were ancestors of the Romans. Finally, Constantine chose Byzantion, a small town with the potential for a gigantic megapolis. He expanded it five times and named it Nova Roma - “the New Rome.” The new name was short-lived but the content remained up to the twentieth century: the New Rome could not have been some usual, even a big city - it had to be the capital of the new, converted Roman Empire and, therefore, the new center of the world. In 337, along with the death of Constantine, the city was renamed Constantinople – the city of Constantine.

For the next millennium, Constantinople remained the capital of East Rome aka the Byzantine Empire and the political and religious center of the Orthodox world – a notion that is still preserved in the title of the Patriarch of Constantinople as “the World Patriarch”. Hagia Sophia Cathedral, built by Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century, was the largest church building for centuries and is still considered a symbolic center of oriental Christianity.

A mosque and street market. IMAGE:LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

55 VOYAGER 10/2018

HIST ORY

Tophane Place_Istanbul. IMAGE:LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

In the Byzantine era, Constantinople was believed to be the city around which the whole world revolved, and its owner was considered to be the world ruler. Such was the perception of the empire’s citizens as well as the people who were in hostile relations with them. This is where the old Russian and Bulgarian name for the city came from: “Tsarigrad” (Царьград), which means “Caesar’s City”.

A cook in the Rue de Stamboul. IMAGE:LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Constantinople, just as “the New Rome”, became a universal symbol of the center of imperial power among the people of Eastern Christianity and was thus imprinted in their cultural memory. Only the one whose throne was Constantinople could be the true Orthodox emperor. Thus, in 1739, Elisabeth, the Emperor of Russia, declared the conquest of Constantinople, and Ekaterine II developed a new plan to conquer Constantinople during the Russo-Ottoman War of 1787-1792, and came up with a new plan to restore the new Russian Byzantine Empire, though these attempts proved to be unsuccessful.

Barbers near Seraskerat. IMAGE:LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Some historians have suggested that Stalin could have been harboring similar plans in 1945. Ironically, the Soviet empire he created was called “the Red Byzantine”. Constantinople became the metaphor for imperial oppression of the “small nations” of the empire. This was the con56 VOYAGER 10/2018

text which Konstantine Gamsakhurdia used in his novel The Right Hand of the Grand Master Constantine, which stated that “Byzantion is a rotten city”. This was symbolic of the Soviet empire and its power center. Ottomans were not indifferent to the symbolic significance of Constantinople as “the New Rome”. Sultan Mehmed II, who conquered Constantinople in 1453 and consigned the Byzantine Empire to history, created a political myth to elevate his great military success to a higher historic quality: he declared the Ottomans to be the descendants of the Trojans, who sought revenge on the Greeks for the defeat at Troy and restored historical justice. A very large political statement was hiding behind this strange myth: as the Roman Empire presented itself as the descendant of the Trojans, from now on, the Ottoman Empire would take over as “the New Rome”- the world empire. The capital of the new world empire had to have such an splendid exterior to overshadow all of the other big cities across Europe and Asia. Sultan Suleyman I made the renowned architect Sinan responsible for performing this extremely ambitious plan. This took place in the XVI century when the Ottoman Empire was at the peak of its strength. Sinan built rich and architecturally diverse mosques, bridges and fountains. They keep awing millions of visitors to this day. In addition to the Greek-Roman, Byzantine and Islamic-East, architecture, the new Western-European architecture gradually emerged in the capital of the Ottoman Empire as well, and soon became an organic part of the city.

The Scutari district. IMAGE:LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

Multiculturalism is a feature of world empires: empires not only spread their styles in their conquered countries but also learn from them and enrich their own culture. Cultural diversity is mixed in empire capitals, thus, such megapolises are distinguished by one of a kind appearances and cultures, different from the main parts of the country. Istanbul did not lose this quality even when it lost the crown of the capital during the disintegration of the Ottoman Empire when the founder of the Republic of Turkey, Kemal Ataturk, moved the administrative-political center to Ankara.

ON THE CONTRARY, ISTANBUL DEVELOPED AS ONE OF THE MOST COSMOPOLITAN CITIES IN THE MODERN WORLD, WHERE PEOPLE WITH RADICALLY DIFFERENT BELIEFS AND LIFESTYLES FEEL AT HOME. Galata Bridge. IMAGE:LIBRARY OF CONGRESS

57 VOYAGER 10/2018

C IT Y

ISTANBUL AKA MORCHILADZE

Istanbul is special not only because it is vast, unfinished, historic and geographically interesting. Nor because of its 26-century past – Byzantium, Constantinople, Istanbul. This city has something that really attracts people, not just the multiple tourist attractions and anxiety-inducing infinity, but its everyday life.

You still remember the simple, even poor chaikhanas and lokantas of the old times. They used to have plastic table covers. This is where you used to find what is often called the city’s ‘soul’ and now, very often, you search for those places in vain. You understand that they have gone forever, replaced by restaurants that attract masses of tourists (so to speak).

Istanbul is a city akin to a beehive. What can be understood when a million or more beehives are united?! Overcrowded, overcrowded, difficult to walk around, with huge streets and a nature that changes daily, acquires different colors and becomes prettier. The old streets visited last year, where cats, the city’s favorite pets, sat morosely in front of the nailed-up windows become unrecognizable the next year. Facades are rebuilt, renovated; exactly what happens in a stable economy, or whatever they call it. Such things take place on every corner.

This is what impresses the person who has lived in Istanbul or visits it often – something new opens all the time. Especially in the places that are visited by the whole world. These new things are often massive and change a whole district. A simple road down to Galata Castle, an old noisy square where you follow small streets leading to the water, are turned into entirely touristic places over two or three years. However, in the past, you’d have been able to see relatives waiting outside maternity wards, locals carrying water up the hill and other people like that, the city’s mundane life.

58 VOYAGER 10/2018

That’s how it is. Of course, everything changes. Traders of new things gradually replace traders of old things on the Ağa hamamı street; the little bazaar in Ortakoy port, known for local antiquities, is now under attack from 50 restaurants, and no-one knows how many more will open up. People everywhere, lots of people. Foreigners. Many remember the long Istiklal Avenue, where thousands of people walk daily, and the old embassy street, which starts at Taxim Square and touches upon Galata Tower, without trams. The historic tram runs here now. Streets are sprinkled with big stores and hotels. What used to be Ada bookstore, where they’d serve you tea, is now a terraced restaurant. The books occupy only one corner, while most of the space is given to the diners. However, you can still find old rare book stores that somehow still hold their places. When you turn down by the Swedish embassy, the small Ahmet Serdar Street runs around the corner. Renovation is visible here as well. Only gates separate the mosque, anglican church and catholic cathedral. This is a small piece of old Istanbul. Some streets still have wooden houses, dark, covered with soot and slightly slanted but still with light pouring out of windows and smoke coming out of chimneys. Everything is changing and changing very quickly. Do you think you’d be able to recognize Taksim Square if not for the monument?! It changes, gets wider. For the better, as they say. However, old Istanbul streets are still narrow, the taxis, still yellow, still drive these streets as if they were pedestrians.

mon, little couches placed outside on the small street, in front of house entrances, where old men lie down with cats and there is nothing awkward about it. A little boy whose father left him at the stall and now anxiously counts change, since customers came over exactly when his parents are absent. The smell of roasted chestnuts goes without saying too. It covers whole streets in late fall. And so do the overcrowded barbershops and waiters running up and down the streets with tea ordered by nearby office workers, and in general, many things here go without saying, very pleasant and some unpleasant, like city swindling and tiredness. However, Istanbul is a city of such scale and breath, which includes all and everyone.

ISTANBUL’S SWEETEST AND MOST SURPRISING DELICACY IS NOT RAHAT LOCUM, WHICH MAKES YOU LICK YOUR FINGERS, BUT RATHER THE FEELING OF PEACEFULNESS. UNEXPECTED, COZY PEACEFULNESS, AS IF PROTECTED BY MANY THINGS AMONGST THE CHAOS. NOT SILENCE, BUT PEACE. IN ITS UNEXPECTEDNESS, IT MAY VANISH IN A SECOND AND NEVER COME BACK.

Because there are two Istanbuls, European and Asian. It looks like this is a very conditional division and I don’t know about the official names, though it relates to the city is built on the both sides of the Bosphorus river. The Bosphorus is Istanbul’s greatest gift from god, and the Golden Horn inlet comes in on the European side. There are some images that you remember unusually well: for example, standing by the water in Bebek and watching big white ships enter the Bosporus. You can watch for hours. Watch. It has an unexplainable magic. Many cities have ports. All of them are cool and pleasant to watch, but there is nothing like Bosporus in any city. It is amazing to watch. You won’t find swimmers or beaches here. It’s just coastline. The road from Ataturk airport to Istanbul follows the Bosphorus. Those who have traveled this road entirely, especially early in the morning, and have reached the edge of European part of the city, where, if you try, you can see Black Sea, will probably understand the importance of the city by the Bosphorus. Here is the weather, more precisely, a breeze, that touches even those located far from the shore. Istanbul’s sights go without saying. As does its history and Ottoman architecture from different eras. Also, lines of rich aunties in chaikhanas, little girls and boys playing backgam-

59 VOYAGER 10/2018

ARCHITECTURE

ISTANBUL - CONSTANTINOPLE - BYZANTIUM NIKA CHKHAIDZE IN SEARCH OF AUTHENTIC TURKISH ARCHITECTURE

Perfect imperfection - This is Istanbul’s alternative name, which was given to it because of its architectural and urban planning peculiarities.

Once a foreign anthropologist friend of mine told me that he was surprised to learn that we in Georgia know more about Paris than the capitals of neighboring Turkey or Iran. Frankly, he was right. Georgians are striving for Europe and, in general, the civilized world, and it so vital that our whole attention is drawn to the great urban megapolis of the West. Turkey, especially the phenomenon that is Istanbul, is a very noteworthy example for Georgia. It could help us to study our own authentic identity. This scope is not limited to Turkey’s architecture but includes the way this country has managed to find its distinctive place in the modern urban world – it contains interesting parallels and opportunities to seek out new ways of architectural development of Georgia. When walking in the streets of old Tbilisi and Istanbul, you will notice that many elements and urban details of these two cities are remarkably similar. 60 VOYAGER 10/2018

Diversity is the main urban characteristic of Istanbul. Istanbul - Constantinople - Byzantium: The unity of this historical continuity and the location of the city is the basis of its diversity. This very continuity creates a concentration of architectural masterpieces in a small area. Turkey’s settlement principle is similar to the system of encampment of nomadic tribes. The main Yurta or Sarai, the same as palace, is the seat of the leader. It is surrounded by a concentration of yurts belonging to those who are high up in the hierarchy. The main goal of all yurta owners is to be as close as possible to the central Sarai.

Sedad Hakkı Eldem

Turkey is similar in this manner. There is Istanbul and then there is ... everything else. All Turks dream of living in Istanbul. Hence, the hypertrophic or excessive growth of the city should come as no surprise, with new districts often built without any kind of privacy. The city-style, non-nomadic, urban sedimentation is less common for Turks. This is why the continuity of Istanbul - Constantinople - Byzantium is so important for Turkish architecture. Istanbul’s eclectic and mixed adoption of different styles and architectural schools – a kind of non-harmonious «skyline» – is much more obvious and easier to understand from today’s perspective. However, the goal of long-term research by Turkish architects and scientists is to find the country’s authentic national architecture, which is reflected as three main components of the Turkish home as a model.

While in Istanbul, I love to stay in the «Hilton» hotel the most. Probably because large hotels attract me. I like anonymous spaces where one can feel the dynamics of the world, while

your own personality seems to be mixed in this general indifference and transience. The Hilton’s modernist architecture is a classic example of a typical international style and hotel complex concept of the 1960s. Full dominance of the local environment, and at the same time, complete seclusion was a clear trend of that period. The hotel complex should have provided a global world traveler with a uniform service range without employing additional local services. Now the trend has changed and hotels are trying to fully integrate with their local culture. The Hilton is a clear exception, but despite its complete isolation, it still lives in this beautiful district of Istanbul. Located in the landscape between Beyoğlu and Nişantaşı districts, it is lost in this environment. The project was designed and executed by the SOM Company. This American company is a multinational dinosaur in the field of architecture. However, there is another architect whose merit was the «soft» integration of the building into the local landscape. Sedat Hakkı Eldem is one of the key figures in the formation of the Turkish architectural identity. He is a representative of the Istanbul elite and received his education in Germany and France. Soon after returning home, Eldem began searching for an authentic Turkish architectural language. He debated with German architects, who mainly worked in Turkey, through polemic texts. In the 1930s, Eldem wrote: «There are three bases for the origin of national style: local culture, local workers and engineers, and national context (location, climate, materials)”.

61 VOYAGER 10/2018

ARCHITECTURE

IN SEARCH OF GRANDEUR ON THE BOSPORUS COASTLINE In the 1930s, Eldem, as a scientist and researcher, studied the elite houses of Ottomans on the Bosphorus coastline. His drawings, measurements and critical art studies have helped to implement many rehabilitation and restoration projects. Eldem worked on the reconstruction of the Dolmabahçe and Çırağan Palaces. The significance of the Bosporus coastline became one of the main topics of his research. The best residential houses and palaces of the elite in the Ottoman Empire were placed along the Bosphorus. Later, Eldem created several excellent examples based on the best traditions of Bosphorus architecture. These studies have become the basis for Eldem to create a kind of typology of a traditional Turkish house.

TRADITIONAL TURKISH HOUSE AS A MODEL From the 1950s onwards, Eldem began to connect traditional Turkish architecture and modernism in his works. It is firstly revealed in the architecture of villas and private houses but there are several notable projects (especially the Zeyrek social security complex) that not only use elements of traditional Turkish houses but recreates a whole «Mahalle» (a

traditional district of Istanbul). Through these means, Eldem underlines the context and the environment. Taşlik Coffee House, where traditional Turkish architecture is clearly manifested, is also worth mentioning. In the 1950s, Elme wrote: «National architecture is a cultural product of one nation, a nation that is made up of different regions and people.» The tradition of Sedat Eldem continues to exist in distinguished works of Turkish architecture, even though there are many examples of characterless city developments spawned by modern urbanization.

62 VOYAGER 10/2018

MODERN CONCEPT OF A MOSQUE ŞAKIRIN MOSQUE Modern religious architecture is a no less interesting phenomenon in Turkey. The modernist approach has come in contact with mosques, which is a very specific cultivated cultural phenomenon. A distinct example is the Şakirin Mosque - Şakirin Camii, whose subtle interior design was created by Zeynep Fadıllıoğlu. She was the first woman to work on a mosque design. The elegant creation of Fadıllıoğlu is a blend of modernism, traditional ornaments and other stylistic details. Since creating the interior design of a mosque is a very complex process, the author has often consulted special commissions.

"WHEN STANDING UNDER A BIG DOME, YOU FEEL SMALL ... I HAVE TO TAKE THE ELEMENTS THAT ARE CONNECTED TO TRADITIONS AND CREATE THEM USING A KIND OF WARMTH AND TAKING THE HUMAN SCALE INTO ACCOUNT TO PARTIALLY DISPEL THE FEELING OF HELPLESSNESS [SMALLNESS] CAUSED BY THE GRANDEUR OF THE MOSQUE." ZEYNEP FADILLIOĞLU

SANCAKLAR MOSQUE The Sancaklar Mosque, created by the famous Turkish architect Emre Arolat, is especially interesting. Built in a kind of desolate landscape, it ideally complements the environment and is essentially build underground. From a distance, only a stone console indicates that there is an architectural creation in front of us. The stairs of the amphitheater leave the impression of an archaeological object. The interior is also very barren, which is driven by the necessity of staying alone with God and the sincerity of prayer. The so-called natural lighting “wells” add a special kind of dramatic effect to the interior space. Important quests in contemporary Turkish architecture are based on a merging of traditions and new trends.

63 VOYAGER 10/2018

SPO RT

SOCCER

BIDZINA BARATASHVILI A lot has been written and I have read many texts about how fanatical the Turks are about soccer and the intense love that they have for it. In the fall of 1994, I had first-hand experience of this phenomenon.. Let me remind you that time when Dinamo Tbilisi of Georgia had assembled a star team to compete in the Europe that included the Arveladze twins, who are icons in the neighboring country.

courage to approach and ask if they could to take a picture with the Arvaveladze brothers. It turned out they were from Trabzon and had come to Europe to look for jobs and had stumbled onto their idols. I will never forget the happy faces of these young lads when Rezi, Shoti and Achi staged a “family show” and posed for their cameras for a long time despite being tired.

At that time, one could watch Trabzonspor games on the Ibervisia channel, accompanied by the non-stop shouting of the Turkish commentator. This is the first time we heard the popular phrase “Shota-Achi show”.

The next day, in the alps by now and attending nightly team training, another group of Trabzonians visited us, climbing the fence to get in. They also wanted pictures and then stayed for the game, shouted at Shota’s goal and heartily supported the Tbilissians to the end, even though there was nothing to celebrate and their team lost 1-5.

In the first round of the UEFA Cup, thanks to a sole goal by Rezi Arveladze, Dinamo beat Austria’s Tirol Innsbruck (1-0) in the home leg, and we journalists boarded a charter flight on 25 September, along with the team, to attend the away leg. The trip wasn’t comfortable - instead of in Innsbruck, we landed in Vienna, where we had to kill hours before taking a train to the land of yodeling. You can imagine that we were not too happy on the floor of Vienna airport and none too delighted with Austrian hospitality. Then, we noticed a small group of young people looking at us with interest. They soon gathered up enough

I witnessed the same kind of celebration on September 4, 2004, this time in Trabzon, when the local public gave a standing ovation to Shota Arveladze and Gocha Jamarauli (a Trabzonspor defender during the 1997-98 season) on the field of Hüseyin Avni Aker after an international match that ended in a draw. Speaking of Georgia-Turkey soccer relations, we should mention that our neighbors have generally had the better of us in international games. However, we can take solace in

64 VOYAGER 10/2018

memories of Dinamo crushing Trabzonspor or Bursaspor in friendly matches, while the Georgians who played for Soviet teams (Meskhi, Metreveli, Chokheli, Asatiani, Kavazashvili, Dzodzuashvili, Khurtsilava, Nodia, Daraselia, Gutsaev, Shengelia, Chivadze and Ketashvili) gave lessons to Fatih Terim and Şenol Güneş, who went on to coach the Turkish national team. But all this happened in 1960-1980; before that, Turkey qualified for the World Cup twice. In 1954, it was in the same group as winner West Germany and finalist Hungary. In addition, at the qualification stage, the Turks eliminated Spain! Four years prior to that, they did not travel to distant Brazil due to lack of funds, missing out after deserved qualification. SOCCER WAS INTRODUCED TO THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE BY THE BRITISH, LIKE IN EVERY OTHER PART OF THE WORLD. THE FIRST INTERNATIONAL MATCHES WERE PLAYED BY MERCHANTS IN 1875 IN SELANIK (TODAY’S THESSALONIKI), WHERE THE BRITISH WORKED TRANSPORTING TOBACCO AND COTTON, AND THEY ADDED SOME LOCAL GREEKS TO THEIR TEAMS.

Geographically, Izmir is the pioneer of soccer in Turkey. In 1877, Englishmen first played an official game here, and in 1894 they launched the first club, Football Club Smyrna (the Greek name for Izmir). A year after that, soccer was introduced in Istanbul with the help of the English and Greeks. Then the locals took the initiative, but only for a short while. After the Black Stocking club was defeated 1-5 by a Greek team, the team was disbanded, as local officials, who didn’t like soccer anyway, saw the defeat as unacceptable. By the way, Fuat Hüsnü Kayacan, considered to be the first Turkish soccer player, started his career at this disbanded team.

From the disbanded club, he moved to Cadi Keuy FRC, a club founded by Englishmen James La Fontaine and Horace Armitage. He was the only local in the club. To hasten his assimilation, he took on the nickname “Bobby”. In short, no real Turkish soccer existed until 1905 and the Sunday League, as the first national championship was called. In that year, Galatasaray, one of Turkey’s “Big Three”, was established. The decision was made during a literature class for 10th graders at the eponymous lyceum! In 1907, the students of Saint-Joseph French school founded Fenerbahçe. As for Beşiktaş, it was the first to get established, back in 1903, but it only turned into a strictly soccer club 10 years later! Turkey can be proud of its many soccer achievements: the national team came third in the 2002 World Cup as well as in the 2003 Confederation Cup and 2008 European Championship. Its clubs participate in the top European tournaments, and Galatasaray won the UEFA Cup and UEFA Super Cup in 2000. There are many players of Turkish origin that live abroad and play in Austrian, Swiss, Swede or German national teams. The German Turkish diaspora is large, and one can encounter Turkish surnames throughout the German football league (Mehmet Scholl, Mesut Özil, Emre Can, İlkay Gündoğan are the most famous). During friendly international matches between the teams held in Germany, you’ll find more Turkish fans in the stadium than locals!

T U RKI SH SOC CER ACHIEVEMENT S NATIONAL TEAM The first match: 26.10.1923; Turkey – Romania 2-2 The record win: 7-0 (Syria 20.11.1949; South Korea 20.06.1954; San Marino10.11.1996) The record loose: 0-8 (Poland 24.04.1968; England 14.11.1984; England 14.10.1987) The most matches: Rüştü Reçber - 120 The most goals: Hakan Şükür - 51 All-win season: Galatasaray (1985/86, 36 Matches), Besiktas (1991/92, 30 matches) The most goals in a seasons 105 - Galatasaray (1962/63, 42 matches)

The most goals in a match: Ferenbahce - Gaziantenspor 12-8 (1991/92) The biggest home win: Besitkas - Adana 10-0 (1989/90) The biggest outside win: Ankaragucu - Galatasaray 0-8 (1992/93) Longest unbeaten series: 48 matches_ Besiktas (1990/91 – 1992/93) Longest unbeaten home series: 90 matches - Trabzonspor (1975/76 – 1981/82) Longest unbeaten outside series: 40 matches - Galatasaray (1997/98 – 1999/2000)

The highest attendance on a local game: 22.09.2013; Besiktas - Galatasaray (76 127 spectators- Atatürk Olympic Stadium) The highest attendance on an international game: 31.07.2002; Galatasaray - Olympiacos (79 414 spectators - Atatürk Olympic Stadium) The highest attendance on a neutral game: 25.05.2005; Milan - Liverpool (72 059 spectators - Atatürk Olympic Stadium) The highest attendance on an international game: 22.09.2013; Besiktas Galatasaray (76 127 spectators - Atatürk Olympic Stadium)

65 VOYAGER 10/2018

The most matches in a league: Oğuz Çetin - 503 (1981 -2000) The best bombardier of the league: Hakan Şükür - 249 goals (289 matches) The best bombardier of the league (according to % indicator): Tanju Çolak - 0,85 (240 goals in 282 matches) The best coach of the leagues (based on number of titles): Fatih Terim - 6 The most champion titles (club): Galatasaray The most successful club: Galatasaray (55 titles: 53 domestic + 2 international;) The most successful coach: Fatih Terim (13 titles: 12 domestic + 1 international)

ART

Plate, the second half of XIV century, Iznik

G O L D, PORCE LAIN AN D W OOL TU LIP S SALOME DADUNASHVILI Turkish culture has taken an interesting and diverse road from the tents of nomadic tribes on the Anatolian valley to the sophisticated royal court of the Ottoman Empire. The XVI century was the era when many branches of Ottoman art were blooming. It is the time when the Ottoman Empire was at the peak of its strength and development. Perhaps none of the empires have used the assets of their developments as much as the Ottoman Empire. Establishing the occupier’s own culture, experience and religion in the countries they conquered were the rules of the game for most empires and their greatest temptation. The Ottoman Empire acted with an alternative method. Tributes, whether financial or “blood” (only Christian countries paid the latter) were imperative. However, the Ottoman Empire culture enjoyed, adopted and developed artistic fields and different

crafts of the countries it conquered. Trade relations that the Ottoman Empire had with the entire civilized world contributed to the development of art. As a result, fields such as carpeting, ceramics, calligraphy and jewelry-making developed and reached new peaks under the Empire. Islam prohibits the depiction of human beings in art, which is why Islamic fine art developed through ornamentation. This tendency, of course, also touched the art of the Ottoman Empire. A rich collection of Chinese porcelain is kept in the Topkapi palace. Ships from all countries dropped anchor in the port of Constantinople, and Chinese porcelain was appreciated in this city from the very beginning; sultans began to collect the best items. Soon local production was formed as well.

66 VOYAGER 10/2018

CERAMICS While the earliest period of Turkish ceramics is limited to geometric patterns and colors, XV-XIV tiles and china are distinguished by their exquisite ornamentation and rich colors. New schools of ceramics were founded and developed in Isnik and Kütahya with the sultan’s court often patronizing such activity. Soon blue and green ceramics and tiles were adorned with new shapes and colors, tulips bloomed in red and purple, and birds and trees acquired new, more sophisticated forms. Roses and nightingales were one of the favorite motifs of Persian ceramics, while tulips led the way in Turkey. Turkish porcelain was not only famous for its excellent ornaments and sharp colors but also its durability. The best samples of Iznik porcelain have left Turkey, however, cypress trees, tulips and carnation gardens bloom on dozens of mosque walls.

CARPETS Anatolian carpets, called Turkish carpets today, were essential attributes of everyday life for nomadic Turkish tribes. Kilims covered tents, and carpets protected floors from the cold. Due to the influence of the Ottoman Empire, Turkish carpet became a world-renowned phenomenon. Turkish carpets, as a symbol of wealth and beauty, even penetrated the canvases of European Renaissance artists.

Isnik porcelain, Topkapi Palace, Istanbul

including Marco Polo’s recordings, where the traveler describes the beauty of the carpets made in Axaray. The oldest carpet that is intact to this day is preserved in the mosque in Konia. It is of the Seljuk period, dating back to XIII century. The Turkish carpets of this period are distinguished by diagonal, geometric motifs. Later, Mongols brought along Chinese themes, phoenixes and dragons.

Carpets and kilims were woven with wool, cotton, and sometimes silk. Scientists argue that the remains of kilims found in archaeological excavations near Konia date to about 7,000 BC.

In the XVI century, the Ottoman Empire reached its peak in the time of Suleiman the Magnificent. Persia was added to the number of conquered countries and Istanbul became the center of political influence. Different crafts bloomed all over the empire. Uşak became famous for carpet weaving.

Turkish-Seljuk carpet exports were already blooming in the XIII century. Much documentary evidence confirms this,

Sophisticated, soft colors and complex ornaments make Turkish carpets a collector’s dream to this day.

Carpet, 17th century, Anatolia 67 VOYAGER 10/2018

Carpet, 13th century, mosque in Konia

ART

Consequently, in most cases, these works were anonymous. Two schools of miniature were strong in the Ottoman Empire. Sultan Mehmed II was responsible for founding the first school. The Nakkashane-i Rum School was founded at Topkapi Palace and served the sultan. After the Ottoman Empire conquered Tabriz in the XVIII century, a number of Persian manuscripts were sent to Topkapi on the Sultan’s orders, followed by the establishment of the second school: the Persian miniature school in Istanbul.

European Ambassadors in Topkapi Palace, Ottoman miniatures, Turkey, 17th

MINIATURES AND CALLIGRAPHY The art of miniature in the Ottoman Empire was influenced not only by Persia but also China. Unlike European fine art, Islamic miniatures are more prone to decoration and do not aim to reflect people or things realistically.

Miniatures were mostly illustrations for books; thus, this direction developed with calligraphy. The Ottoman Empire used the Arabic alphabet. Whole teams of artists usually worked on one miniature. One worked on the human figures, the second on the background, the third on the calligraphy.

Calligraphic samples

Representatives of the first school were required to adorn official documents while the second Persian school depicted the sultan’s everyday activities, ambassadors’ reception ceremonies, feasts and hunting scenes. Calligraphy had an important role as well and was elevated to the same level as art. Surahs of the Quran adorned the walls of mosques and became more and more refined. The same applies to manuscripts and individual calligraphic works.

Illustrated Qur'an, 16th century, Turkey 68 VOYAGER 10/2018

GOLD “The string of pearls and emeralds reached down to her knees, adorned with diamonds the size of turkey eggs” – This is how the amazed ambassador of England to Turkey in the XVIII century described the sultan’s wife’s necklace. Jewelry, the most visible manifestation of Eastern riches, was the weakness of the rulers of the Ottoman Empire. Ninety jewelry workshops served the sultan at Topkapi Palace. Men, women and horses wore jewelry equally. The sultan’s favorite horse owned much more impressive gems than some of the most beautiful women. One of the most commonly recognized jewels was the one placed on the sultan’s turban and surrounded with feathers. Two or three rows of precious stones were placed around the head. Women in harems received these ornaments from the sultan as a token of special sympathy.

KAŞIKÇI ELMASI IS AN 86-CARAT, PEARSHAPED DIAMOND AND WEIGHS 17. 2 GRAMS. KAŞIKÇI ELMASI OCCUPIES FOURTH PLACE AMONG THE LARGEST DIAMONDS IN THE WORLD. IT IS PRESERVED IN THE COLLECTION OF THE SULTAN’S TREASURY IN THE TOPKAPI MUSEUM.

Women’s love for simple golden bracelets, worn by the tens, not only served the purpose of jingling nicely and glittering: bracelets were also a way of investing money. A woman could have worn all of her property on her hands and turned it into money at any moment. This was the purpose of a very popular necklace, which consisted primarily of gold coins. Golden coins were added to pearls or other precious stones. This necklace told you about a woman’s status and financial situation.

Sultan’s treasury, Topkapi palace

The Ottoman jewelry craft, as well as other branches of arts, reached their peak in the XVI century and formed a unique style. Jewelry masters often used gold of different colors, natural forms of precious stones, and gave more depth and texture to jewelry by blackening gold or silver. Combining green and red, floral motifs, tulips, roses and lilies were very popular. Ottoman dagger with precious stones, 18th century

In addition to rings, earrings and necklaces, belts were the most popular jewelry for women in the Ottoman Empire. These were clasped on the waist or the hips. No wealthy woman could have been seen without a silver or golden belt ornamented with gems. This art was not limited to the creation of jewelry – everything the sultan touched was adorned with gems: cups, chalices, and goblets, jewelry boxes and, most importantly, weapons.

Examples of Ottoman goldsmith work, 18th century

Not only the hilt of swords but the whole sword was ornamented for the sultan. Such swords were obviously more decorative and used for parades but they could perform their job perfectly.

69 VOYAGER 10/2018

LITERATURE

Orhan Pamuk, Frankfurt Book Market

THE WRITER THAT IS VERY (NOT) LOVED LASHA BUGHADZE James Joyce once said that the writer who is uniformly loved in his country is either dead or a liar. He may have been thinking of his fellow Irish, who at the time perhaps did not appreciate his inimitable Ulysses. The same words could have easily been said by a writer who has prompted many to renew their love for Istanbul or even fall in love with it for a first time. Orhan Pamuk’s portrayal of this city’s melancholy and the essence of its beauty has won him the Nobel Prize.

painters are killed just for adding perspective to Eastern miniatures and deviating from traditional Eastern “unperspectiveness” in favour of European post-renaissance “perspectiveness”. When I think of Pamuk, I remember Vladimir Nabokov’s evaluation of Tolstoy. Nabokov explained the greatness of this writer by the fact that it was simply impossible to put his books down. He said that we read Tolstoy’s novels not because of their necessity, importance or “commitment” but because of unstoppable interest and joy.

Pamuk is loved by many around the world but by few in his own country, as he is often more critical and objective than people can stand. For many, he is an Istanbul writer rather than a Turkish one. He is considered to be a writer for the elites and the West and not for his compatriots, tangled up in western and eastern historical labyrinths. Pamuk is considered a snobby European despite the fact that he is opposing Kipling’s famous verdict. He is constantly trying to create cultural and philosophical bridges between West and East.

For me, Pamuk has Tolstoy’s “mystery”– reading his books, even the long ones, is always interesting and enjoyable. There is one quality, which may seem childish or unacademic to some, that distinguishes him from other famous and modern novelists: he is a writer you can love, or to be more precise, he seems lovely, which is very important in terms of the universal popularity of a writer. We may admire Michel Houellebecq’s cruel imagination, be awed and enchanted by Salman Rushdie’s grandeur and universal ingenuity, be shocked by Elfriede Jelinek’s cathartic cynicism and ruthless nakedness, but as opposed to them, Pamuk has something that brings us closer to him: the very thing, the feeling of closeness, the sentiment that he is like the reader and that

His principal novel, My Name is Red, is about such fatal connections or dramas of disconnection. In this novel, Turkish

70 VOYAGER 10/2018

My favourite Pamuk novels are: 1. My Name is Red 2. Snow 3. Istanbul 4. The Red Haired Woman In his latest novel, The Red Haired Woman, Pamuk again seems to impart old wisdom, reminding us that humankind keeps telling the same story but that the strange and astonishing thing is who tells this story and in what manner. Take for instance the Oedipus Rex myth, a tragedy of father-slaying and incest, which is revisited by Pamuk via an unusual and thoughtful angle in his new novel. Frankly, I don’t like such sentimental and superficial assessments, though I must confess that Pamuk himself is very much like his protagonists, especially the poet Ka from Snow. At least, when I met him during his visit to Tbilisi he seemed as confused, closed in on himself and heavy, as was his character Ka when he arrived in melancholic Kars. It was noticeable from the start that Pamuk needed to make an effort to exit his state of introversion. The writer had completely gone into his own self and universe, or even into his new novel, which he was probably writing during his stay in Tbilisi (My Strange Thoughts or even The Red Haired Woman) He treated us with tactfulness and respect but without great interest, as he had probably met many such as us at similar or different dinners with colleagues.

books and, in general, how long the book signing should last. Then, when an unexpected autograph hunter loudly popped up in a Georgian restaurant, I could vividly see how this best-selling author could get tired giving out never-ending autographs. “If 1,000 people come, we will be able to sign all the books in 30 minutes”, he told one of the organizers. “If there are more, we will have to think about this situation”. More than a thousand people came to the Rustaveli Theatre, and the queue was disbanded (Georgians never respect a queue, so why would they make an exception for Pamuk?). The author had to literally escape by the nearest exit, where, if we believe apocryphal legends of that evening, he was stopped by a drunk theatre director who addressed him in Russian “Why don’t you give autographs to your readers?” The frightened Pamuk was later discovered in the catacombs of the formal Qimerioni. Though his torment did not end at that: in the restaurant, according to Georgian tradition, singers were bellowing out songs (“Hello, my city of Tbilisi!”), switching to a quieter repertoire (“Darkvetian girl, you are so kind”) only after a Georgian publisher asked Pamuk to leave the singers an autograph on a handkerchief. I invented the latter story, but this does not change the spirit of what happened because one thing became apparent – the fact that our beloved writer appeared beside us has excited and confused us, it made us want to show off to him (he was even asked to make a Khinkali, which he politely declined) and induced the same emotional state as the fans of the first mythological writer, when Orpheus, melancholic as Pamuk, was torn to pieces from love. The only difference was that we returned Pamuk safe and sound to his anxious and melancholic Istanbul.

the same things that make him happy or sad affects us, the readers as well. There are two more active writers along with Pamuk who I think are also distinguished by their ‘loveliness’ and ability to get close to us: Mario Vargas Llosa and Milan Kundera, whose books we read first of all for enjoyment, in Nabokov’s sense of the word.

For as long as I watched him, his eyes lit with curiosity only twice: first, when I made a silly joke about an angry woman who was asking for his autograph (“was she really angry? why was she angry?”, he asked me), and second, when someone, I don’t remember why, mentioned Houellebecq. “Houellebecq is a very smart writer”, he said, “very smart”. Nothing else. One woman demanded his autograph, and feeling awkward, she hid her shame behind rudeness and fought for the autograph in an impolite manner: “Come on, why can’t he give me an autograph?! Why can’t he be bothered?!” Pamuk was so affected that when people in a long autograph queue tried to skip ahead, he dedicated a ten-minute lecture to this matter: how those who wanted an autograph should stand, who and how many assistants should hold the 71 VOYAGER 10/2018

Orhan Pamuk in the Museum of Innocence, Istanbul

MUSIC

ALLA TURCA FRO M M E HT E RAN T O M O ZA RT A N D O N KAKHA TOLORDAVA

Music joined the army early on. To be exact, only several music instruments were “drafted” in at first, mainly percussion and wind. They had three tasks: maintaining order and coordination when troops were moving, ensuring communication between different army units, and psychological oppression of the enemy. In the Bhagavad Gita, before the great battle of Kurukshetra, the warriors of the Pandava and Kuru dynasties scare each other with drums, bugle, trumpets and horns. The walls of Jericho were brought down by the sound of ram horns – it’s most likely to be an allegory, but still. Musical instruments were used in the same way in Ancient Greece, Ancient Rome, Byzantium, Britain, France, Germany, China, India – everywhere. They maintained order, inspired warriors, praised gods and heroes before battle and terrified enemies.

All of these instruments developed together and over time changed the way they looked and sounded; they would separate from time to time but always make up and cohabit together harmonically. Nobody knows how many soldiers have died under the thudding of drums and squealing of wind instruments. Nobody knows how many warriors have been inspired to take a decisive step in the battle cry of military instruments. And then came what we all already know: war changed and became more hi-tech, more devastating, more long-distance and louder. When it became apparent that war and music could not go on fighting together anymore, they still could not be separated. War suggested that they stay together but live apart. This is how military music came to its current ceremonial and ritualistic state.

72 VOYAGER 10/2018

It is said that all important armies had their own musical sound and rhythmic structure. Very often, warriors of one army where so enchanted by the musical notes of the opposing army that they adapted what they heard for themselves.

MEHTERAN – AS THE MILITARY MUSICIANS

The crusaders were so captivated by the “musical order” of the Saracens in the Middle East during the crusades that they quickly assimilated unknown musical structures and instruments and applied the principles of their use.

OF ARMY UNIT MANEUVERS ON THE

These principles were already described in the Art of War by Machiavelli at the beginning of the XVI century. He should have already heard of the janissaries, an elite unit of the Ottoman Empire army, if only for the fact that the “musical arsenal” of European armies at that time was formed under heavy influence of the janissary military marches. The greatness of this army was known all around Europe; its traditions had been developed and perfected since the XIII century. The janissaries were recruited from Christian youths taken hostage during the war or kidnapped, mainly of Greek or Albanian origin. As the Ottoman Empire expanded, the janissary units were filled with Bulgarians, Armenians, Horvath, Serbs and Hungarians and later sometimes Georgian, Ukrainians, Russians and Romanians. The tactics of psychological suppression of enemies by such armies was, among others, backed by a whole arsenal of musical instruments. According to one unknown historian, when in 1453 the army of Mehmed II Fatih attacked Constantinople, “The noise of janissary instruments drowned the sound of the city bells calling the warriors to battle”.

WERE CALLED IN THE OTTOMAN EMPIRE – WERE SO WELL TRAINED AND ORGANIZED THAT THEY ENSURED THE PRECISION BATTLEFIELD. IT WAS BELIEVED THAT AS LONG AS THEY PLAYED, ALL ARMY UNITS WOULD FOLLOW THE PLANNED BATTLE ARRANGEMENTS. It is said that the Imperial Mehter Orchestra even played when the Sultan shaved. For this reason, the choice of instruments of the Mehteran (their instruments were made by at least 100-150 craftsmen, mainly of Greek and Armenian origin) differed on the battlefield and during state ceremonies. The Mehter instrumental arsenal was mainly limited to percussion and wind instruments on the battlefield – for instance large double-headed drums, known as Kös, which were played with sticks and usually carried by an elephant, camel or other animal. However, the list of percussion instruments was not limited to that: the Mehtaran also took the Nakkare (small timpani),

Mehteran – as the military musicians were called in the Ottoman Empire – were so well trained and organized that they ensured the precision of army unit maneuvers on the battlefield. It was believed that as long as they played, all of the army units would follow the planned battle arrangements. The word “Mehter” comes from the Persian “Mahiter” and is translated as “the new moon”. The second meaning of this word, based on the Persian “Mihter”, is “an infantry soldier”. The Turkish word “Mehteran” means “the house of Mehter” and today is used to describe the orchestras that were part of the janissary army units. The first Mehter orchestra was supposedly formed in 1299 when the Sultan of Rum Kayqubad III sent Osman I, the founder of the Ottoman Empire, a kettledrum as a gift to denote his status. It was considered a great honor in the Ottoman Empire to have a Mehter orchestra. Apart from Sultan Mehteran’s orchestra, there were also those of the prime minister, the governor-general and head of the janissaries. You could hire them for some special occasions as well - parades, holidays, weddings, diplomatic meetings, during preparations for war or official receptions. This is where the ceremonial function of orchestras originates. 73 VOYAGER 10/2018

MUSIC

the Zil (cymbals) and the Davul (cylindrical drum) into battle (this is probably why Mehterhane are sometimes called Davulhane, which means “a house of percussion instruments”).

WAR LOVED MUSIC AND MUSIC FELL IN LOVE

A must-have for Mehter among wind instruments was the Zurna (a kind of horn) and Boru (a kind of trumpet). During ceremonies, many other instruments were added to this selection. In such cases, the Mehter usually stood in a semi-circle, apart from Nakkare players, while the sizable Kös was placed at the heart of the semi-circle. This specific drum could be used only by the Imperial Mehter Orchestra.

CHANGED THEIR LOOKS AND SOUNDS, THEY

Each instrumental group had its own leader or Ağa, and the whole orchestra was led by one conductor. Their music was based on elements of Turkish folk music of the Ottoman period, and strictly defined principles where the most apparent was the music’s monophonic texture, irregular meter and unique sound.

WITH WAR, AND THEIR RELATIONSHIP LASTED FOR CENTURIES. THEY GREW TOGETHER, QUARRELED AT TIMES BUT ALWAYS MADE UP AND CONTINUED TO LIVE TOGETHER HARMONIOUSLY. The dwellers of Vienna had heard the powerful sound of the Mehter timpanis and zurnas as early as 1529 during the first unsuccessful campaign of the Ottoman army. The last campaign of this army to Austria in 1683 turned out to be unsuccessful as well, which marked the decline of the powerful Ottoman Empire, the ascent of the Habsburg Dynasty and the emergence of Austrian cultural life.

Despite the fact that their music had not changed significantly over centuries, Ottoman repertoire was very extensive, and unique enough for a special term to appear in the world of European music - Alla Turca (in the Turkish style). In addition, it must be noted that in later periods, many notable Turkish composers wrote ceremonial Mehter music. One of the oldest Mehter marches dates back to the XVI century and was written by Nefiri Behram. Mehter marches took part in many battles, including European campaigns, although this music was also heard in the palaces of European countries during military or diplomatic negotiations and meetings. In 1826, Sultan Mahmud III (the conductor of whose imperial orchestra at the time was Gaetano Donizetti’s brother Giuseppe Donizetti Paşa) disbanded the janissary corps as they had staged a number of rebellions but by this time the popularity of these corps and their musical element had already spread across Europe. 74 VOYAGER 10/2018

The conflict between Austria and the Ottomans lasted for many more years. In 1781, when Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart arrived in Vienna, despite the fact that the mythos of the Ottoman Empire and its undefeatable army still lived on, factually the empire was nothing more than a “paper tiger”. Nevertheless, Mehter marches still attracted many artists, musicians among them. The influence was so great that many western musicians wanted to compose music ‘alla Turca’. Today there are many discussions as to whether or not Mozart had heard the Mehter orchestras. Many claim that he had not, although there are some that say he would have heard the Mehteran in Vienna during one of the Ottoman diplomatic missions, as some diplomats used to travel with their own orchestras. In any case, Mozart’s Turkish March, the third movement of his 11th Piano Sonata, is probably one of the most famous examples of the influence that Mehter marches had on Western composers. Mozart is not the only composer to have used Turkish music in some of his works. Elements of Mehter music (this could have been a simple imitation or deeper more complex attempts) at different times were used by César Franck, Jean-Baptiste Lully, Jean-Philippe Rameau, Christoph Willibald Gluck, Franz Joseph Haydn, Franz Christoph Neubauer, Josef Starzer, Carl Maria von Weber and Ludwig van Beethoven.

MOZART’S TURKISH MARCH, THE THIRD MOVEMENT OF HIS 11TH PIANO SONATA, IS PROBABLY ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS EXAMPLES OF THE INFLUENCE THAT MEHTER MARCHES HAD ON WESTERN COMPOSERS. MOZART IS NOT THE ONLY COMPOSER WHO USED ELEMENTS OF TURKISH MUSIC IN SOME OF THEIR WORKS.

WHEN TRAVELLING TO TURKEY, YOU CAN LISTEN TO THE MEHTER ORCHESTRA IN THE ISTANBUL MILITARY MUSEUM.

ish musical instruments from the royal collection. Hence, it is possible that the French military orchestra made up of oboe players took at least partial influence from Mehter marches. There are numerous such stories and theories regarding Mehteran. Throughout the centuries, the exchange of acoustic elements of military orchestra between the West and the East became more intense, which benefited both in the end. And then, slowly the Mehter marches and Turkish music in general, especially its irregular rhythmic structures, took hold in modern western popular music. Once when David Brubeck, an American Jazz pianist and composer, was walking in the street, he came upon some Turkish musicians and became enchanted by the rhythm of their music. “Where does this rhythm come from?” He asked, “This rhythm is the same for us as the blues is for you”, they answered. This rhythm had been developing in their culture for centuries, the rhythm that, as Ottoman historian and traveler Evliya Çelebi wrote, “made even planet Venus dance”.

No doubt, Western countries knew of elements of military music even before they encountered the Mehteran; they took musical instruments to war as well but the beginnings of any Western military orchestras lead us to Mehteran. For example, it is considered that the French had the first military orchestra in Europe – an orchestra created by Jean-Baptiste Lully using only oboes. Today, it is unknown what kind of music they played, but if we take into account that Lully created this orchestra on the request of Louis XIV, we should also be aware of the known fondness of the “Sun King” for Turkish music. The King had often hosted Turkish diplomatic missions and on these occasions asked his court composers to use Turk75 VOYAGER 10/2018

TRADITION

THE DANCE OF ARABIAN NIGHTS IRINA BAGAURI Everything happens differently in the mystical worlds: muted stories sometimes start speaking for themselves and tell the world of things that some prefer not to hear, some could not have imagined, and some have thought long-forgotten. This happened in the XX century in Konya – now a provincial town whose past glory seemingly has lost its colors and faded under the harsh Anatolian sun. Yet the city was suddenly honored by western politicians in 1953 when American diplomats visited Konya. The head of the city made active efforts and took dangerous risks to excite the honorable guests with his city. Frankly, there was nothing that would not excite about Konya – one of the oldest settlements of the world, which according to legend was one of the first seven cities founded by Noah’s descendants after the Biblical Flood. However, the vastness of historical facts and remarkable monuments was not enough for the city mayor and he decided to astonish the diplomats with a ritualistic spectacle that was banned

by the Turkish government 27 years before this visit. He received permission from the government after a great deal of pleading and then came to the dervishes and asked them to show the guests their ritual: on one condition – the meditational dance was to be presented only as a folklore show, and they must not mention its mystical and religious nature. After practicing for years in secret, the first open performance in front of the public and diplomats was a great success. This performance was like the removal of a curse, after which the Dervishes slowly returned to society, which was banned to them by Ataturk in 1925. The country’s commander-in-chief was intending to turn Turkey into a secular and western state and, according to him, Sufi philosophy and religious rituals did not fit into this concept. Islamic Sufism is not a religion but a very free philosophical school. The word “Sufi” means “wool” in Arabic because

76 VOYAGER 10/2018

its followers, to express the repentance and rejection of the world’s vanity, wore poor woolen tunics - their only property, which, like the “one hundred names of Allah”, had at least a hundred holes in it.

It is important to maintain one’s own axis while whirling: during the dance the worshipper should be able to fly with his mind and at the same time not lose the roots that keep him on the earth.

Sufism, which is the esoteric side of Islam, probably emerged as a philosophy long before Islam. It is a synthesis of Oriental cultures such as Iranian Zoroastrianism, Indian Buddhism and Egyptian or Syrian mystical movements.

Following the XIII century – the golden age of Sufism – Dervishes suffered a great deal of persecution. Followers continued their practice in secret nevertheless. In the XX century, the dance of Dervishes was largely saved by Western interest in it.

If the exact historical period when Sufism emerged is unknown, the story of Sufi Dervish dance dates back to the XII century. It originated in the capital of the Sultanate of Rum, the center of medieval Eastern Science and Art – Konya – and under one of the greatest mystic poets of the East, Mavlana Jalal ad-Din Rumi. According to one legend, one day when the poet was walking through the streets of Konya, he passed by a goldsmith’s workshop and heard the sound of hammers beating. Upon hearing an even rhythm, Rumi spread his hands and began whirling. The dizziness lifted his mind from the earth and instead of the deafening sound of the smith’s workshop, he heard the voice of God. This is how the Dervish dance – the Sama ritual – was created, which is traditionally performed on December 17th on the anniversary of Rumi’s passing. The Sufis refer to this date as “the wedding night” because they believe that when the poet left this world, he got married to eternity. According to prevalent opinions, before the first performance of the ritual, Dervishes are obliged to take 1001-day training, during which apart from dance, they partake of religion, ethics, music and poetry. The ritual is usually performed by Dervishes in white clothing. The pristine color of their clothes symbolizes the human soul, and the long hat - the tombstone. Before they begin their prayer, the clergymen take off their black robes and thereby open their hearts to eternal truth. The blessing to take part in the Sama ritual is given to Dervishes by their leader, who leads them to the divine road and then helps them get back to the earth. The whirling “around the heart” starts from left to right, begins with the hands crossed on the chest. After that, the Dervishes open their arms. They raise their right hand to the sky as a sign of gratitude for everything that is given by god, and the left hand is stretched out towards the earth to give a share of their blessing to the people on earth. The position of the hands is changed from time to time, based on the nature of the prayer. During the ritual, musicians perform excerpts from the Koran and Jalal ad-Din Rumi’s poetry.

To commemorate the 700-year anniversary of Rumi’s passing, UNESCO declared 1973 the year of the poet, and therefore demanded to see the ritual. Dervishes traveled to cities around the world and, at the same time, Turkey became a tourist destination for people interested in Sufism. “Purely folk dance” was the definition of this ritual and the necessary condition that allowed Dervishes to return to the people. Despite the fact that with increased awareness, society learned more about the primary purpose of the ritual, Sama partially turned into a folk and commercial spectacle. Today, Dervishes gather in large halls and even stadiums, and at the same time, several important centers were returned to them to continue their practice and teaching. In 2005, UNESCO added the “Mevlevi Sama” Ceremony to the list of Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity, and declared 2007 the year of Jalal ad-Din Rumi and tolerance. In 1925, when the Turkish government banned Sufi rituals, no one could imagine that in the future the dance of the Dervishes would become the country’s calling card, and Sufi philosophy, in contrast to religious radicalism, would become an example of Islamic tolerance to the world. According to Sufi beliefs, humankind has lost a number of traits over time, especially spiritual vision. Their spiritual path serves in finding these traits and the path to love. This is why more and more people rush to south-west Anatolia from all around the world to experience eastern mysticism and purely poetic dance, enchanted by the esoteric philosophy in the Dervish rituals rather than the folklore.

THE CIRCLE IS A SACRED SYMBOL THAT REPRESENTS PERFECTION AND UNITY WITH GOD IN DIFFERENT RELIGIONS. THE DANCE OF THE DERVISH REPRESENTS THE EXPRESSION OF THE LAWS OF THE DIVINE AND EARTHLY WORLDS, WHERE EVERYTHING MUST WHIRL IN ORDER TO EXIST, AS IT IS TRUE FOR ATOMS, PLANETS, AND STARS.

77 VOYAGER 10/2018

STORY

A Scene from the Turkish Harem Valentin Mueller, Hans Gemminger, Franz Hermann. Oil, 1654

SORROW OF THE HAPPINESS HOUSE BIDZINA BARATASHVILI

When traveling to Turkey, if you are interested in history, you have to visit Topkapi palace. A sizable portion of the excursion is dedicated to the sultan’s harem. It will surely be mentioned that Georgian, Slavic and European beauties were traditionally believed to be the most prestigious wives. History has preserved some of their names. First of all, let’s mention Hürrem, the beautiful wife of Suleiman the Magnificent. Then there’s Anastasia Lisowskaia, daughter of a Ukrainian Orthodox priest, known as Roxelana. She has become a character in numerous literary and cinematic works. The woman, distinguished by beauty and a sharp mind, fascinated her husband with Arabic poetry, an exceptional occurrence for the 16th century! Half a century later, Aimée de Rivéry, cousin of Joséphine de Beauharnais, Napoleon Bonaparte’s wife, shared the same fate. She was still a child when Algerian pirates kidnapped her as she was travelling to her home on Martinique. Pirates gave the girl to Sultan Abdul Hamid as Nakşîdil (Embroidered on the Heart). He liked this smart, shy blonde girl, and made her his favorite. Later, Aimée de Rivéry became Valide Sultan (queen mother).

The term “harem” means “a sacred, inviolable place” - a house where a man lives with wives, slaves, and children. Sometimes it was called “Dar-us-Saadet” (House of Happiness). There are other synonyms: seraglio, zenana, purdah. Only the head of the family could enter this part of the house, for others it was restricted territory. Dursun bey, the Turkish historian, wrote: “if the sun were a man, it would not dare to enter the harem!” Usually, in our imagination, we associate harems with sultans and Turkey. In fact, the first harem was found in the archaeological excavations of Girsu (Tela) palace. The researchers date it back to the third millennium AD, and it belongs to the Caledonian period. Later, harem culture spread to Egypt, India, Persia, Turkey and a number of African tribes. But the roots of the phenomenon come from the tribal period. Men were engaged in hunting and wars and thus often died young, and only polygamical relationships could save the tribe from destruction. Accordingly, every man had to have many families to continue producing offspring. Any rich man in the East could have a harem. In pre-Islam times, men had

78 VOYAGER 10/2018

the right to have as many wives as they wanted. Muhammad took the number down to four, while the number of lovers remained undefined. The latter were selected among slaves and called cariye (slave concubines). Cariyelik (slavery of women) has existed since ancient times. By the way, the sultan did not have full freedom in his personal life either. First of all, he was obliged to spend Friday night with only one spouse; if the spouse was unvisited for three consecutive Fridays, she had the right to complain in court. The chieftains of the Ottoman Empire traditionally had 4-8 wives, and therefore, to avoid any misunderstandings, one of the concubines was obliged to do a scrupulous accounting of the sultan’s dates. Life in a harem was distinguished by a number of peculiarities. Some of the women were public officials, similar to modern chiefs of staff. They were concubines with no rights, though some of them held the key to the treasury and others the sultan’s great seal! Of course, concubines so high in the hierarchy of power could not remain simple slaves. Some of them were freed and sometimes even successfully married off. An important 18th-century document describes the staff census of Sultan Mahmud I’s harem: marani - 17 slave women; princes’ concubines - 72 concubines; other household activities – 230 women. Only 15 had the status of favorites! Apparently, despite the praise of flatterers, sultans did not quite have divine power. Ordinary mortals (unfortunately) are unable to satisfy all the women around them despite their desire to do so. Therefore, for a large part of the inhabitants, the harem was a kind of prison that limited their sexual life.

Surprisingly, after nine years in a harem, any slave who did not share the sultan’s bed could freely leave the “golden cage”, and the sultan helped them find a husband and even provided a dowry. However, not everyone used this right. Many preferred to stay in the palace rather than face the reality of life. Some probably believed that a miracle would happen and that they would eventually become a favorite or even a wife. The sultan was the authoritarian head of the harem hierarchy. His mother, Valide Sultan, held second position; she was usually a foreigner. Then came the wives (Kadınefendi), favorites (guzide) and finally, slave-concubines (cariye). With the exception of the first two positions, all the others were conditional and harem residents often changed places. The cariye did not have any rights and were largely responsible for household activities. The most beautiful slaves were particularly close to the sultan. Normally, he would divide the slaves: half of them were responsible for his personal bedroom service, and others were considered as favorites (guzide). The ones selected for a romantic night were given gifts beforehand, and afterwards as well if the lord was satisfied. Those who got pregnant entered the “happy” (ikbal) category. If there were a few of them, they were ranked first, second, third etc. Later, ikbals became the most important women of the harem and had serious privileges after the sultan’s death. The birth of a son granted ikbal the status of an official wife, and she became a kadınefendi. Here as well, the first wife was the main wife, and the rest were second, third, etc. In the event of death, wives were replaced by other wives or ikbals. The images of harems that we have are based on romantic paintings by European artists and writers and films of similar attitude. It is not surprising – such a closed environment provides space for fantasy and passion for a stranger’s eye. The reality was far from romantic. Harem life had stern rules. It followed a strict hierarchy. History saw several occasions when beauties who had no rights dominated their rulers and played a decisive role in the life of the empire. However, these were exceptions. Most harem inhabitants would never see their ruler. Until the 16th century, only concubines lived there. Their days were spent lounging by the marble fountains and pools, enjoying oriental desserts and holding conversations with each other. They were taught music, etiquette, writing, and later, the art that they needed to get the attention of the ruler. Young women received a daily allowance and gifts, and they did not lack for clothing or personal care products. From time to time, the sultan invited one of them into his bedroom, but there was no talk of marriage.

The Musician Women, Osman Hamdi Bey, Oil, 1880

Bayezid I was the one who changed this. From the time of his reign, sultans began to marry harem inhabitants. Until the 16th century, a sultan could choose an official wife from his 79 VOYAGER 10/2018

STORY

THE TERM “HAREM” MEANS “A SACRED, INVIOLABLE PLACE” - A HOUSE WHERE A MAN LIVES WITH WIVES, SLAVES, AND CHILDREN. SOMETIMES IT WAS CALLED “DAR-US-SAADET” (HOUSE OF HAPPINESS). THERE ARE OTHER SYNONYMS: SERAGLIO, ZENANA, PURDAH.

Harem, the Topkapi Palace

harem, neither could he have relations with a free Muslim woman (a free Muslim woman would not be allowed in a harem), so he was forced to marry a representative of a foreign dynasty. The necessity of political marriage was diminished after the empire became stronger, and the Ottoman emperors were free. Thus, the role of a harem was elevated. If the night spent with the sultan or his son was to their liking, the concubine was moved to the room for favorites. Then she had to try and get pregnant, if she had a son, she would become the sultan’s wife. If she had a girl, she still had nothing to complain about – she would remain a favorite and enjoy other privileges as a mother of a royal family member. The problems originated here. As you know, even two women have hard time living under one roof, while tens and hundreds of women were competing in harems. It was necessary to initiate a strict system of governance, and so eunuchs were introduced. Castration originated in ancient Assyria, and in the following centuries it spread to Persia, Greece and Rome. From the time of Mehmed, eunuchs were ordered to protect the harem: first white eunuchs and later Abyssinians, who overcame the painful procedure sooner and suffered less pain.

They also had a strict hierarchy, with defined places, rights and obligations. Many consider eunuchs with a lot of irony, but their influence in the sultan’s court was enormous. The chief eunuch was the third most powerful person in the country after the Great Vizier and the religious leader, Shaykh al-Islām. From 1852, the harem was fully subject to the rule of the eunuchs. They were responsible for buying slaves and informing the sultan about the behavior of his wives and concubines. More than half a century passed this way. Then came World War I, the unsuccessful Turkish alliance with Germany, the occupation of the country by Ananta and the revolution initiated by Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. The last sultan of the Ottoman Empire escaped to Britain by ship, while the inhabitants of his harem parted in different directions. The Republic of Turkey was declared on March 1924 in the empty palace. One of its first laws abolished harems. One of my colleagues traveled to Turkey with Georgian TV viewers several years ago. They had to look for the Ottoman-Georgian (or Georgian-Byzantine) trail, at least superficially. So, my colleague took them too many different places, until the group started complaining that they were exhausted and dying from fatigue. My colleague mumbled, “I just wanted to show you the mosque of Süleyman I, the main character of the soap opera “The Golden Age”. The Georgian delegation instantly revived: people started screaming, “where is it?!”. Everyone forgot their tiredness! The TV viewers who visited Turkey to pray over Byzantine or Greek saints could not be torn away from the Süleyman’s tomb for hours. They mourned just as loudly as his loyal or hypocrite vizier’s after his death in the soap opera; the guard had hard time scraping them off the legendary Sultan’s tomb. So how can we not appreciate genius Turkish producers who were so talented in making Georgian viewers love the great Ottoman history?

80 VOYAGER 10/2018

TURKISH SOAP OPERA AND THE STORY OF LOVE LASHA BUGHADZE No matter how we justify it, we have to honestly admit that soap operas turn us daft. Series with great dramaturgy and exquisite shots turn us daft with feelings of horror and pleasure, while the coarsely shot and primitively dramatic ones gradually cause our mental or social degradation. Addiction in itself implies a certain daftness, but what is the quality of this daftness?! Can we be turned daft by something worthy rather than unworthy?!

It stays in an undeveloped stage and culmination never happens, especially in conditions when in real life everything has an ending and sometimes this ending is unpleasant. When the Soviet Union ended in 1991, 200 million viewers watched an abnormally elongated and happily daft Brazilian soap opera on TV. While the newly-founded unity of independent Georgia was being executed in front of our eyes, exactly during the culmination of Abkhazian war, the population was hypnotized by the excitingly idiotic Mexican saga of “The Rich People Cry Too”. Definitely, the population underwent a therapy course while watching these soap operas. However, Turkish soap operas have had a greater and more important influence than other soap operas – they forced Georgian viewers to love history. For now, it may just be Ottoman history, but still, its history... I am sure that many people in Georgia don’t know the deeds of King Simon I or King Solomon II, but know in detail the reign of Sultan Suleyman I. I don’t see anything bad in this – on the contrary, the more we know about our neighbors, the better. Especially if we take into account the fact that in Russian Soviet history course books, you would find almost nothing about the real or important Ottoman Empire.

Clearly it may be pleasurable and generally even therapeutic to get daft via “unworthy” ones that make you forget “painful” reality and enter a world where such daftness is a relief. However, in general, it is better to view one of the most prominent phenomena of mass daftness critically - the stories that lack culmination (meaning multi-series of soap operas), since we all remember what happened to Pedro Camacho who was addicted to the soap opera drug in Mario Vargas Llosa’s Aunt Julia. A lack of culmination is the main characteristic of the series and this is where the main secret of daftness lies. Culmination is always related to some kind of catharsis: this is how it began, this is how it developed, and this is how it ended. However, since there is no culmination (or at least, it is prolonged for an uncertain time), catharsis never takes place…

One of my colleagues traveled to Turkey with Georgian TV viewers several years ago. They had to look for the Ottoman-Georgian (or Georgian-Byzantine) trail, at least superficially. So, my colleague took them to many different places until the group started complaining that they were exhausted and dying from fatigue. My colleague mumbled, “I just wanted to show you the mosque of Süleyman I, the main character of the soap opera “The Golden Age” – the Georgian delegation was instantly revived: people started screaming, “where is it?!” Everyone forgot their tiredness! The TV viewers who visited Turkey to pray over Byzantine or Greek saints could not be torn away from Süleyman’s tomb for hours. They mourned just as loudly as his loyal or hypocritical viziers after his death in the soap opera; the guard had a hard time scraping them off the legendary Sultan’s tomb... So how can we not appreciate genius Turkish producers who are so talented at making Georgian viewers love great Ottoman history?

81 VOYAGER 10/2018

GASTRONOMY

THE SECRETS OF SULTAN’S CUISINE OR THE BENEFIT OF A LONG-HANDLED SPOON SALOME DADUNASHVILI There are three traditional schools of cuisine - French, Italian and Turkish - that dominate all over the world. While sauce is the base of French cuisine and pasta of Italian, we cannot name the dominant ingredient or dish that determines the character of Turkish cuisine. Turkish cuisine is very diverse and balanced. It includes fruit, vegetables, dairy products and cereals. The ratio of these ingredients is much higher than that of meat and constitutes the main part. The Ottoman Empire elevated culinary art to the level of religious cult. The import and export of spices and exotic products in Constantinople was under the direct control of the sultanate. Often, the one who managed the sultan’s kitchen also owned his heart. Some 150 chefs worked in the Topkapi palace kitchens. Each had his or her own specialty: for example, no one would trust the baklava baker to prepare meat or the sorbet specialist to season pilaf. By the beginning of the 17th century, about 1,500 people worked in the palace kitchens preparing food for 10,000 palace dwellers and invited guests every day. The number of dishes on special nights reached into the hundreds. Unfortunately, the replication of Ottoman recipes is not easy for modern chefs and scholars. The task resembles an archaeological excavation, as the tradition has been forgotten for almost 100 years. In addition, all the great chefs kept their recipes secret due to the fierce competition.

The sultan’s kitchen was a huge world, a separate country with its history, intrigues and controversy. It is not surprising that in such conditions, memory was the best place for preserving recipes. Culinary books written in Arabic and Persian, which experts value like gold, provide only a small amount of information about the recipes used in the sultan’s court. Janissaries, the sultan’s personal bodyguards, managed kitchen affairs. Traditionally, janissaries were boys taken at the age of 10-12 from the empire’s Christian countries as blood tributes. In various periods, the number of the janissaries in the palace reached between 30,000 and 120,000. One of their most important functions was the management of kitchens that operated in Constantinople’s mosques. There was nothing more important for a janissary than the sultan’s health and the spoon placed in the turban that he used to taste soup intended for the poor. Once a year, the

82 VOYAGER 10/2018

Modern-day Turkey is located in an area that saw the rise and fall of tens of great civilizations. The culinary tradition, which specialists date as 4,000 years old, has become a stable system, enriched and enhanced by the influence of Greek, Persian and Arab civilizations. Wheat and cereal cultivation, oil pressing and fermentation of dairy products has taken place in Anatolia for thousands of years. When the nomadic tribes of Central Asia moved towards Anatolia in Asia Minor, they brought not only their cultural traditions – for example, carpet weaving – but also their food habits. The livestock traditions of nomadic tribes were carried into Turkish cuisine in the use of lamb, mutton and beef and preserved in methods of meat processing, such as basturma and kavurma. sultan sent baklava to the janissaries’ barracks. If the tray returned empty, the janissaries were satisfied, if the tray returned untouched, the sultan had problems. Topkapi palace saw numerous janissary rebellions.

The tradition of air-dried cured beef comes from the nomadic way of life. Milk was used in the same way. Milk powder was obtained by sun-drying it and then using it as a food supplement.

Rich feasts at the Ottoman Empire court were just as important as ruling the country. To some extent, this was part of ruling the country. Hundreds of miniatures, which portray the grandeur of the feasts, depict not only never-ending rows of roast lamb but also guests’ seating arrangements around the table. In modern Turkey, you can often hear an expression that loosely translates as: “Let everyone hold their own spoon and begin eating pilaf”. In short, everyone should take care of their own business.

Dairy products remain a central component of the traditional Turkish breakfast. Yoghurt is considered an invention of Turkish tribes. Bulgur, ground wheat and oatmeal are still an important part of Turkish cuisine. Persian culture had a great influence on Turkish cuisine. This is evident in dishes where meat and vegetables and meat and fruit (fresh or dried) are stewed together. Persians also brought cauliflower and coriander to Anatolian territory.

A spoon was a very important attribute for the invited guests. Despite the fact that the palace was full of dishes, there were not enough spoons for everyone. Who knows, maybe guests were tempted to take spoons with them as souvenirs and that’s why everyone was asked to bring their own. Without a spoon, a guest would stay hungry during the brilliant feast. It was imperative to bring two spoons: one for soup and sorbets, and a second, long-handled one, for pilaf. The thing was that one could not always sit in front the pilaf plate, so a competitor could steal the best pieces of meat. The guest’s status was also indicated by the material that their spoons were made of and how richly decorated the special spoon bag was. Diversity of choice is one of the defining conditions for forming a high-class culinary school, and the Ottoman Empire had practically unlimited choice. Although the infinite influence of the empire and its geographical location allowed for the delivery of all kinds of produce, Ottoman cuisine was still based on seasonality, the preservation of the flavor of fresh produce and balanced nutritional principles. This is a very modern approach. 83 VOYAGER 10/2018

GASTRONOMY

ONE FACT IS ENOUGH TO DESCRIBE THE IMPORTANCE OF SULTAN’S KITCHEN: AFTER MARIE ANTOINETTE’S EXECUTION, HER FRENCH CHEF MOVED TO THE TOPKAPI PALACE. HE IS CREDITED WITH ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS DISHES OF OTTOMAN CUISINE, CALLED “THE SULTAN’S PLEASURE”. THIS IS A FRIED EGGPLANT WITH BÉCHAMEL SAUCE, WITH SLOW-COOKED LAMB ON TOP.

Most importantly, Turkish pilaf is version of a Persian dish. Turkish tribes that settled in Anatolia acquired Chinese and Mongolian traditions too, such as noodles and manti. With the advent of the crusades, recipes of new exotic dishes and fresh flavors entered Turkey. Ottoman cuisine also kept the Arab rules and recipes for ingredient processing.

One fact describe perfectly the importance of sultan’s kitchen: after Marie Antoinette’s execution, her French chef moved to the Topkapi palace. He is credited with one of the most famous dishes of Ottoman cuisine, called “the sultan’s pleasure”. This is a fried eggplant with béchamel sauce, with slow-cooked lamb on top.

In the time of Murad II (1421-1451), father of Mehmed II the Conqueror, Turkish cuisine was still very simple. Culinary art bloomed after the conquest of Constantinople and became what is known to us as Ottoman Cuisine.

Although the history of Turkish cuisine is one of change and influence, it is absolutely self-sufficient and unique. Seljuks’ ability to adapt was their greatest asset. They took all the dishes and ingredients from the Middle East, processed them, developed them and made them their own.

MEHMED II WAS A GOURMAND, AND THE DRAMATURGY OF SULTAN FEASTS BEGAN TO FORM AT THIS TIME. THE BANQUET ALWAYS STARTED WITH A SOUP, WHICH WAS MADE FROM BEEF, POULTRY, OR FISH STOCK OR YOGHURT. THE CHEF WAS NOT CONSIDERED PROFESSIONAL IF HE COULD NOT PRODUCE 100 TYPES OF SOUP. THE SOUP WAS FOLLOWED BY A VARIETY OF PILAFS, FISH, POULTRY AND MEAT DISHES. THE FEAST ENDED WITH DESSERT.

The sophistication and elegance of Ottoman cuisine is derived from the colorful tents of nomadic tribes. It took a lot from the whole world but also gave back an abundance of dishes and inspiration. If nothing else, the tradition of drinking coffee is gift enough for the Europeans. THE TOPKAPI PALACE, WITH ITS INNER COURTYARDS, CERAMICS DEPICTING CYPRESS TREES AND COLORFUL CARPETS, WAS A PLACE NOT ONLY OF IMPERIAL DRAMA BUT ALSO OF CULINARY DRAMAS. AN INFINITE NUMBER OF KITCHENS AND STERN ROWS OF CAST IRON CAULDRONS THAT USED TO SIMMER ON OPEN FIRES ARE THE ONLY REMAINING ELEMENTS OF THAT GRANDIOSE SCENE.

However, many types of desserts were prepared to be served only with tea or coffee, and they were a privilege of women’s society. Due to nomadic lifestyles, Ottoman cuisine started using vegetables relatively late, but it elevated the culture of vegetable preparation to the highest level of sophistication. Turkish cuisine is especially rich in varieties of stuffed vegetables. In Lebanese or Greek restaurants, you will find stuffed eggplant, which is an Ottoman invention. Eggplant is especially revered. There are up to 40 ways of preparing it in Turkey. Paprika and cucumbers are also commonly used.

84 VOYAGER 10/2018

NEW CHEFS OF OLD CITY Modern Turkish chefs continue to pursue the best traditions of Anatolian and Ottoman cuisine. Some of them prepare classical dishes of Ottoman cuisine in their restaurants and spend a lot of money obtaining old recipes and methods of preparing ingredients. This is not an easy task because there is little documentary data and Turkish cuisine traditions have been forgotten for over a century. Just as in the time of the Ottoman Empire, it is possible to purchase all kinds of ingredients in Istanbul bazaars today. Turkish chefs search for new versions of popular ingredients. They are writing a new page in the history of Turkish cuisine.

TRADITIONAL TURKISH FAMILIES PREFER TO EAT AT HOME, AND TURKS APPRECIATE HOMEMADE CUISINE, WHICH IS WHY MANY WELL-KNOWN RESTAURANTS AIM TO RECREATE THE COZY FEELING OF HOME.

heights in Turkey. Dozens of types of coffee, a modern, lively environment and the highest-quality roasting beans have proved to be a success. The Kantine restaurant is another place that pays tribute to traditional Turkish family cuisine. It gives the impression that a beloved grandmother cooks here. The menu changes daily, depending on which ingredients impress the chef. Tables cannot be reserved for lunch, and they always keep one table for regular clients for dinner. The soul of this warm and tasty restaurant is Chef Semsa Denizsel. This young red-haired woman, who studied public relations in London, found the best way to communicate with people and proved that the stomach is the way to the hearts of not only men. Mehmet Gürs Şemsa is a well-known chef in Turkey and co-owner of 19 successful restaurants. Mikla is one of the most famous of them. Legends are told about the culinary masterpieces prepared here. In 1996, after the young chef returned from America to Turkey, Mehmed Gürs faced a difficult task. His work space surpassed the kitchen walls and moved to libraries, rare books shops, and the kitchens of grandmothers that lived in the mountain villages. Mehmed aimed to create a new Anatolian cuisine, which could not exist without researching the old one. Traditional Ingrid nets, food preparation techniques, and even traditions have become a source of inspiration for him. Mikla was named among the 100 best restaurants in the world in 2015.

Kemal Demirasal is a self-taught chef, though that did not prevent him opening one of the most successful restaurants in Turkey. Kemal’s heart lead him to Anatolian cuisine after a 15-year career in sports. Windsurfer turned successful chef, today he surprises his fans with his tasting menu, just as he surprised them with his bravery on the ocean waves. Try pistachio kebab in his restaurant Alancha. This Anatolian recipe is thousands of years old. Alancha is among the top 50 restaurants in the world.

Chef Mehmed Gürs’ scope is very large. You can get acquainted with his work in his restaurant network: Numnum café & restaurant, Trattoria Enzo, at the self-serve restaurant Terra Kitchen. Kronotrop Coffee Bar & Roastery is one of the most successful new projects. It has become a place for coffee lovers. This bar has elevated the tradition of coffee drinking to new 85 VOYAGER 10/2018

KEMAL DEMIRASAL’S RESTAURANT YEK IN ALAÇATI HAS BECOME A CULT PLACE FOR GOURMANDS.

TARHANA ÇORBASI

EZOGELIN ÇORBASI Hot red lentil soup is one of the special dishes of Turkish cuisine. Rice, peppers and spices are added to lentils. The name, Ezogelin is associated with a woman named Ezo, who is considered author of the dish.

Tarhana soup is a traditi onal Turkish dish, made from dried vegetables, yoghurt and wheat. Tarhana is a powder made from dried vegetables, which is used as a main ingredient of soup. Usually it is prepared by the end of summer when vegetables are full of vitamins.

KARNIYARIK

IMAM BAYILDI

Eggplant is stuffed with onions, parsley, garlic and tomatoes, as well as seasoned meat. Karnyyarık is enjoyed fried. The most common version is made from lamb, although many cook it with beef.

Eggplant is fried in olive oil and filled with tomatoes and onions. This is a different version of the karnyyarık dish, which contains beef.

MÜCVER Minced squash is first dipped in the egg, then in flour, and then fried in vegetable or olive oil. Sometimes white cheese, green onion and mint are added.

MERCIMEK ÇORBASI KURUFASULYE

This lentil soup is a simple and sophisticated Turkish dish. You can order it as a main course, with Turkish bread and lettuce.

İŞKEMBE ÇORBASI

YAYLA ÇORBASI

Khashi is made from beef innards and is often eaten with garlic or lemon sauce. It is particularly good for hangover.

Turkish yoghurt, rice and mint are the main ingredients of this soup-like dish. It is sprinkled with hot peppers. The name of the dish means “mountain blessing”, which is not accidental. The dish is especially tasty in the high mountain regions of northern Turkey, where dairy products are of great quality.

This modest traditional dish is made with light-colored beans simmered in tomato sauce. Sometimes this dish is prepared with meat. It is served with rice pilaf and pickles.

DOLMAK, SARMAK

PATLICAN SALATASI Eggplant salad is a Turkish meze staple. Grilled eggplants are scooped out and pureed, seasoned with salt, pressed garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and pepper.

Dolma means stuffed. It is the characteristic dish of Anatolian cuisine, and is mainly made from stuffed vegetables (paprika, squash, eggplant and tomato), with spiced rice that is mixed with beef or vegetables.

KÖZLENMIS PATLICAN SALATASI DÜĞÜN ÇORBASI

DOMATES ÇORBASI

Soup made from mutton is a part of traditional Turkish wedding ceremony.

Cream of tomato soup is very tasty, it is served warm and therefore is especially nice on the cold winter days.

Salad is made from eggplant, peppers and tomatoes. Peppers and eggplants are cooked in oven or pan, and then mixed with tomatoes, onions, oil and salt.

86 VOYAGER 10/2018

Sarmak means wrapped: in this case the filling is wrapped in cabbage, lettuce or thin vine leaf. It is served hot in its own juice or dry, often with sour cream.

DISHES

PILAV

MANTI This dish is also referred to as Turkish ravioli. Thin dough with meat filling is boiled in pepper and salt water or tomato sauce. Manti are often prepared in different sizes. Some of them are so small that a couple of pieces can be placed on a table spoon at the same time. They are served with freshly made yoghurt, butter, finely chopped greens or red pepper. One type of manti is grilled eggplant wrapped in dough.

CACIK

STREET F O O D

You will find many kinds of pilafs in Turkey. Rice is often cooked with oil or butter. It may be prepared with eggplant, Turkish peas, meat and liver.

ARNAVUT CIGER

Liver is cut into cubes and fried with spices and onions. NOHUTRYU PILAV SIMIT

This is a bagel-like pastry you can buy Simit on any street in Turkey. Crunchy bread rolls are covered with sesame seeds. They are often served for breakfast.

White rice, cooked with Turkish peas and chicken is a typical Turkish dish, which is frequently offered in the streets of this country.

MISIR

BULGUR PILAVI This dish reminds us of a rice dish, though it is made from wheat. The most common versions are made with onions, green pepper, tomato paste and mint.

Smoked and then lightly grilled corn grains are sprinkled with coarse salt, pepper or other spices on top. This is a popular snack in Turkey, which you will encounter in almost every street corner.

KOKOREÇ

Seasoned mutton intestines are skewered, then placed in a quarter of bread and served with chopped tomatoes and green pepper. Kokoreç is like kuchmachi.

Cacık is a fresh mixture of cucumber, yoghurt, onion and pepper. On hot summer days it is served on ice.

MIDYE

ACILI EZME It is very hot. The main ingredients are tomatoes, red paprika, red hot pepper, olive oil, and lemon and pomegranate juice. It is served with crunchy chips, toasted bread or pita.

Fried vegetables - Eggplant, green pepper, squash, placed in tomato sauce or yoghurt are delicious garnishes for any dish. Garlic makes the garnish spicier.

KESTANE

Clams are stuffed with rice and herbs. A few drops of lemon and dish is ready to go.

There is no corn in winter, so street vendors will offer fried chestnuts; chestnut scent covers the whole street.

THE BEST FISH SANDWICH WITH PICKLE JUICE IS SERVED AT THE GALATA BRIDGE.

87 VOYAGER 10/2018

BALIK EKMEK

A fresh sandwich prepared with fish can be purchased directly from the boat.

DÖNER KEBABI

In the 1800s, Iskander Efendi, a resident of Bursa, invented a special grill that made it possible to roast meat vertically. Sometimes an eggplant is cut like a sandwich, stuffed with köfte and sprinkled with olive oil.

KEBAP KEBAB (KEBAP) IS THE MOST COMMON NAME FOR SKEWERED FRIED BEEF, CHICKEN OR LAMB. THE MOST COMMON IS DÖNER KEBAP, FOR WHICH YOU ADD VEGETABLES, GREENS AND SAUCE TO THINLY CUT MEAT WRAPPED IN LAVISH OR PLACED IN BREAD.

A large chunk of meat is placed on a thick skewer and is rotated on the grill. Small cuts of meat are served with rice or durum – a thin lavash.

Namesake of the city of Urfa, URFA KEBABI is similar to Adan kebab but is less spicy. Instead of pepper, meat is seasoned with onions, garlic and sweet paprika. The classic SHISH KEBABI is skewered meat. Marinated lamb or beef is placed on skewers, usually without vegetables, and roasted over coal.

ISKENDER KEBABI – This kebab originated in Bursa. Döner meat is placed on flat Turkish bread, called pide. The dish goes particularly well with butter, yogurt and tomato sauce.

ÇIG KÖFTE This meatball dish is very similar to steak tartar. Traditionally, it is made from ground bulgur, scallion, finely chopped garlic, spices and fresh, raw meat. It is served with all kinds of greens, lemon juice, lettuce leaves or flat bread.

TAVUK aka PILIÇ CÖP ŞIŞ - Cöp şiş is made

ADANA KEBABI -

The dish is associated with the city of Adana. Meat is seasoned with red pepper, placed on a flat metal skewer and grilled. When the fat melts, the mass of meat becomes uniform. It takes the form of a skewer. It is often served with grilled vegetables, hot peppers, onions and tomatoes.

from lamb and fat leftovers from the preparation of kebab. These boneless meat slices are set in onion, tomato, black pepper, oregano and olive oil marinade. It is often roasted on thin skewers with other types of kebab. The small pieces of meat soon change color to brown, and the pieces of fat become crunchy, which adds a special flavor. It is often eaten as an appetizer before the main kebab dish.

POLITE ALI AKD ALINAZIK KEBABI is a

mixture of grilled lamb meat and eggplant with yoghurt. Turkish meat balls, called KÖFTE, are usually made of lamb or mutton with mashed bread, onions and spices. Izgara köfte is the most common variety. It is grilled and served with paprika and minced parsley.

88 VOYAGER 10/2018

This kebab is usually made from beef breast or other dark meat. The meat is marinated in milk or thin yoghurt, then dipped in olive oil and spices, with chopped red peppers. BEYTI ground beef is rolled up in a thin lavash yufka, cut and then seared in the oven.

TRADITIONAL DISH / DRINK

TEA

THE MAIN DRINK OF TURKEY

RECOMMENDATION

HOW TO ARRANGE The dishes: aluminum double teapot, tulip-shaped transparent glass and dish; Ingredients: black tea (by weight), sugar cubes, water. Boil water in the big, bottom teapot. Meanwhile, the top teapot gets hot. Add 4-5 full table spoons of black tea and slowly pour boiling water in a circular motion. When the teapot is filled with water, stir with spoon and cover the top. Pour cold water into the bottom teapot, place the small teapot on top and boil.

Modern-day Turkey is one of the leaders among the tea-producing countries. It is also the main consumer of the product. Turkey is in the top five of the countries according to the tea harvest and produces 6 to 10 percent of the planet’s tea. This culture is harvested on the Black Sea coast, in Rize province plantations. The soft, humid climate of the Black Sea coast and the fertile land produces high quality black tea leaves. Tea has become a symbol of Turkey; it is an integral part of Turkey’s social life. A teapot is always boiling in every family, office, shop, restaurant and chaykhana ... tea is offered to friends and strangers. However, tea does not have such a deep past in this country, as the importance that it has acquired. Tea has actually entered Turkey via Georgia. In 1893, by the initiative of the Russian Empire, Lao Jonjao from China visited to develop tea culture in Batumi and its suburbs. He brought 15950 tea bushes and plantations from, from China and planted them from Kobuleti to Rize. This was Georgian territory then. Thus the tea culture was spread in Georgia and Turkey. The Turkish double teapot (Caydanlik) is an adapted version of Russian samovar.

ÇAY BAHÇESI Tea Garden is an indispensable part of Turkish social life. The widespread, often non-formal and affordable tea gardens are a vivid ex-

When the water is boiled, lower the flame and leave for another 15 minutes for tea to steep. Rinse the tulip glasses with hot water, pour the brew to the desired strength and add hot water; place it on a dish with 2 pieces of sugar on the side. The teapot must be returned to a low flame: until the brew is dried up, it must be kept warm. Add boiling water as needed to the lower teapot.

HOW TO ENJOY Some people choose to add sugar cubes to their tea, though Turks prefer sugarless tea, maybe with a few drops of lemon. Tea is enjoyed all day in Turkey. This process begins at breakfast and ends before sleep. The “tea time” usually lasts from three to five pm; it is enjoyed with pastry or other dessert. However, tea is not limited to this section of the day. Every family or work place brews tea which is always ready for the guest. In the offices, according to the law, two tea breaks are provided during the working day.

amples of the fact that life’s greatest pleasures are often easy to achieve. The types of tea offered in the gardens are not very different from each other.

DOLMABAHÇE

This beautiful garden is located on the shore, by the wall of the Dolmabahçe palace, under a beautiful marble clock tower. It is an ideal place for a sunset. Marmara Sea horizon can be seen from here. Vişnezade Mahallesi, Gümüşsuyu Caddesi,

89 VOYAGER 10/2018

ÇENGELKÖY ÇINARALTI

It is located on Bosporus and is open all day long. The place is named in honor of a several hundred year maple tree that provides shade for this vast area. Çengelköy Cad. Çınarlı Camii Sok. No:4

BAKLAVA Baklava is the most famous Turkish dessert. It is made of tens of layers of thin pastry with chopped hazelnuts, chestnuts, raisins and held together with honey or sometimes syrup. The layers of pastry are usually saturated with butter and rolled or folded. It is then baked in the oven. There are many varieties of baklava, including traditional baklava with pistachio; Sütlü Nuriye with hazelnut (the pastry is made with milk instead of water and is therefore lighter);

LOKMA

HALKA TATLISI

ŞEKERPARE

This bite-sized fried dough ball also contains honey, sugar syrup and cinnamon. Crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, it goes down in one bite.

This simple, sweet pastry should be eaten by hand. Sometimes, it is covered with ground pistachios or powdered sugar. It will help restore your energy.

This sweet, delicate baked pastry is made from bulgur and sugar and is soaked in lemon syrup. It is the second-most popular dessert in Turkey after baklava.

REVANI

EKMEK KADAYIFI

This dessert is saturated with sweet syrup, made from Semolina and sprinkled with marigold water and ground pistachios.

This pudding made from wheat flour is usually served with kaymak after dinner.

HELVA

CEZILI SUCUK

İRMIK HELVASI

When this dessert is made from flour it is gelatinous, while when made from hazelnut, butter and sugar, it is friable.

This dessert looks like churchkhela. It is made from dried fruit and hazelnuts, which are placed on a string and dipped into thickened grape juice (the grape juice includes skin and fruit) and then dried in the sun.

This semolina halva is prepared for religious holidays and is also part of the ritual of burial.

ŞAMBABA - ŞAMBALI

This dessert is sold on Şambaba and Şambali streets. A baked biscuit, it is most commonly covered with peanut butter. It is sometimes enjoyed with kaymak.

Burma, a variety considered to have fewer calories; and Bülbül yuvası, meaning nightingale’s nest, which resembles a nest that holds pistachios or other nuts. Fıstıklı Sarma is a pistachio baklava (and is pistachio colored). It is especially delicious with Maraş ice-cream.

In any case, you will experience a nice hazelnut texture.

AŞURE This pudding is prepared with sugar, wheat, Turkish peas and beans. Dried fruit is sprinkled on top, including peaches, figs, raisins, hazelnuts and walnuts. 90 VOYAGER 10/2018

KAZANDIBI Kazandibi is a milk cake. Surprisingly, it often stuffed with chicken breast, though it is considered a dessert.

PASTRY

KEŞKÜL

AYVA TATLISI This classic Turkish dessert is made from roast quince. It is sweet and amazingly airy and looks just as beautiful as it is delicious.

TURKISH BREAD

This simple but delicious almond pudding is made from ground almonds, milk, and sugar and rice flour. It is often sprinkled with coconut and pistachio powder.

TURKISH BREAD HAS A 5,000-YEAR HISTORY. KATMER Katmer is a type of traditional rolled dough. It can be sweet or salty depending on the filling.

LAVAŞ

AÇMA

Turkish lavish is very thin, and it’s best eaten hot and freshly baked.

Açma means patty in Turkish and looks like simit. It is usually served for breakfast or as a snack.

KABAK TATLISI MARZIPAN

This dessert was famous back in the era of the Ottoman Empire. It was prepared in Edirne, the old capital of the Ottoman Empire, for centuries.

This dessert, prepared from Turkish pumpkin, does not look like other desserts. It’s easy to prepare, has fewer calories and will win the hearts of all who taste it. It is especially tasty when sprinkled with walnuts.

FIRIN SÜTLAÇ

KESTANE ŞEKERI

has been cooking chestnuts dipped in sugar water for 700 years.

GÖZLEME

Yufka is a thin bread that has been known for centuries on Turkish territory. It is used for wrapping various dishes.

PIDE

Water, milk, rice, sugar and rice flour are used to prepare this Turkish rice pudding. Cinnamon or ground hazelnut are also added.

Gözleme is a typical Turkish village dish. Spinach, cheese and parsley, ground meat or potatoes are cooked in a lavish or filo pastry.

YUFKA

LAHMACUN

Menus often refer to this dish as Turkish pizza. You can roll up lahmancun and enjoy it with chopped meat, onions and peppers, parsley and lemon juice.

This bread is sometimes cooked with ingredients such as onions, sliced tomatoes, spices, cheese and meat. This version will remind you of pizza.

AK EKMEK This simple type of whiteflour baked bread can be found in different shapes, including circular and arched. It is often topped with sesame or poppy seeds. Ramazan pide is round, flat bread, often topped with sesame seeds or Turkish peppers.

There are also other types of pide, such as Pide Ekmeği, aka Ramazan Pidei:

BÖREK - Börek is a traditional dish of Ottoman cuisine, most often served for breakfast. It comprises baked, thin dough and often has spinach, cheese, tomato or meat filling.

91 VOYAGER 10/2018

SIGARA BÖREĞ - this dessert is relatively small and has a cylindrical shape. White, feta-like cheese and parsley are the most common fillings. It is sometimes served with a meat, onion and parsley mixture.

WINE WINE HAS BEEN PRODUCED ON TURKEY’S TERRITORY FOR 7,000 YEAR. TODAY, TURKEY HOLDS THE SIXTH PLACE IN THE WORLD IN TERMS OF GRAPE HARVEST (4 264,000 TONS) AND THE FOURTH – IN TERMS OF SIZE OF VINEYARDS, BEHIND ONLY SPAIN, FRANCE AND ITALY. OUT OF 1200 INDIGENOUS VINE VARIETIES GROWN ON TURKISH TERRITORY, ONLY 60 ARE USED IN WINE PRODUCTION; THE REST OF THE FRUIT IS CONSUMED AND USED IN THE FOOD INDUSTRY.

TEA SKHIERELI THE MAIN WINE-GROWING ZONES

Turkey has a diverse climate, as a result it has several different areas of wine growth. Thrace is a homeland of Dionysus (Bakhus). Here the vineyards are spread by the Marmara sSa. 40% of Turkish wine is made in Thrace. The local indigenous grape varieties are: Red - Adakarasi, Cinsault and Papazkarasi (usually mixed with Cinsault), White - citrus and lemon-colored - Narince and Yapincak. Most of the Central Anatolian vineyards are planted at 1250 meters above the sea level. Continental climate is characterized by cold, harsh winters. Often the temperature drops to - 25 degrees. At the same time, summer is dry and sunny. A «star» red grape variety - Kalecik Karasi grows in Central Anatolia, as well as Papazkarasi, white Narince and Emir.

According to a legend, Biblical Noah planted the first vine shoot in Eastern Anatolia. This is the oldest wine region. The vineyards are planted on the Euphrates river valley. They grow local varieties here, although the yield is low. The distinctive varieties are: Red - Okuzgozu, Bogazkere; white - Narince. FIVE «STAR» GRAPE VARIETIES

Emir – this Cappadocia white grape can endure low temperatures and grows at a high altitude, is used in production of wine with high acidity, with high mineral content and distinguished by an elegant aroma of citrus and apples.

Aegean Sea coastline (near Izmir) – this regions is characterized by Mediterranean climate, soft and warm winters and dry summers. 20% Turkish wine is produced here. The most common grapes are: white - Sultaniye (this delicious variety is used for raisins) and Misket (Muscat); the most distinguished red variety is Kalecik Karasi.

Narince – a white variety, which is considered to originate from Thrace, is widely spread in other regions as well. Its aroma has distinctive traces of citrus fruits and white flowers, it adapts well to oak barrels, which improves structure of the wine and taste balance. 92 VOYAGER 10/2018

Kalecik Karasi - This is a red grape variety that is characterized by thin skin, a high tannin content, unique taste and inimitable quality.

Boğazkere (bogazzare) - is a red grape variety whose name is translated as «the iron throat». The wines made from it has rich and saturated taste and is rich in tannins.

Öküzgözü - Red grape variety, whose name is translated as a «bull’s eye». This is a variety with the largest grapes in Turkey. The wine made from these dark grapes has a high aging potential – it can maintain and improve its properties for more than 10 years. Light tannins and excellent balance, caramelized fruit, dark berry and cherry taste are its characteristics. Turkey is a Muslim country and alcohol historically was considered a forbidden fruit (haram), 83% of the population does not consume any alcohol at all. Per capita wine consumption is mere 1.5 liters per year. Beginning of wine production in Turkey in 1920s is connected with Mustafa Kemal Ataturk. It is said that he was an appreciator of good drinks and, though he mostly favored whiskey, he wished to introduce the country to western values. The current largest manufacturers were established in that period - Doluca (1926) and Kavaklidere (1929). Today, there are many small wineries producing high-quality wine, whose wines are better known and consumed outside of Turkey, as local wine costs more locally than when it is exported. In 2013, the Turkish parliament banned advertising of alcoholic beverages, prohibited its sale even in a close vicinity to schools and mosques what most importantly, doubled taxes on alcohol production, which led to increase of Turkish wine prices and dramatic reduction of consumption. RECOMMENDATION

URLA, Nero D’Avola-Urla Karasi 2014 Made from grapes grown in biodynamic manner at a 3,000-year-old terrace, this wine consisting mainly of Sicilian Nero d’Avola, and 10% Urla Karasi is a more full bodied, high tannin, extremely aromatic drink. It ideally combines strength and aroma. Alc. 15%, the price is 54 €

KAVAKLIDERE, Cotes d’Avanos Narince-Chardonnay 2013 Cotes d’Avanos’s vineyard is the only one on the altitude of 950 meters above sea level in Turkey, located on the slopes of volcanic origin. The wine has a distinct aroma of orange and apple, it is aged for 10 months in French oak barrels. Alc. 14.5%, the price is 30 €

To try Boğazkere and the best Turkish wines made from it, we would suggest you take a wine tour to Urla winery, the most famous Turkish wine producer located near Izmir in the oldest winemaking region of Turkey.

Urla Sarapcilik and Uzbas Arboretum – are the main driving forces of Turkish agricultural tourism. Urla Sarapcilik produces tens of thousands of boutique wines and using the world’s best technologies. Uzbas Arboretum is an agro company of tropical and subtropical plants. Its grounds grow pineapple, olives, palms, various types of bushes, aromatic plants and deciduous trees, brought from 52 different countries. The local palm forest spanning 2000 sq.m is the largest in Europe. TWO ROOMS

Two Rooms - a luxurious and fascinating boutique hotel, part of Urla’s celebrated wine factory, is surrounded by extensive private vineyards. There is a beautiful reservoir by the hotel’s garden. The rooms are distinguished by an elegant decor, with a view of vineyards from the windows and a personal 200 sq. m. terrace. Guests can take part in different stages of wine production according to the season - whether it is harvest or pressing. The hotel is one kilometer away from the beach. Room price: from 170 € Kuscular Koyu 8028 Sok. No:12 Urla,İzmir, 35430 Urla, Turkey

Sevilen, Plato Kalecik Karasi 2013 Seville’s Kalecik Karasi is a red wine, a little bit reminiscent of Pinot Noir, with lightness; Due to ageing in new oak barrels, the tannins are very distinctive in it. Alc. 14%, the price is 25 € 93 VOYAGER 10/2018

WINE CONSUMPTION IS ONLY 7% OF TOTAL ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION IN TURKEY, BEER ACCOUNTS FOR 89% AND RAKI FOR 4%.

RAKI - rakhi or the lion milk, as it is called sometimes, is an anisette strong drink. Some mix it with water, some have it on rocks. Raki is chased with melon, sheep or goat cheese.

TRAVEL TO HISTORIC TAO-KLARJETI IRENE GIVIASHVILI THE TERM TAO-KLARJETI REFERS TO THE HERITAGE OF THE KINGDOM OF GEORGIA ESTABLISHED BY THE BAGRATIONI ROYAL DYNASTY AND, APART FROM TAO AND KLARJETI, INCLUDES SUCH HISTORIC SOUTH-WESTERN GEORGIAN PROVINCES AS KOLA, OLTISI, ERUSHETI, SHAVSHETI AND MACHAKHELIETC. TO VISIT THE HISTORIC TAO-KLARJETI, ONE MUST TRAVEL TO THE NORTHEASTERN PROVINCES OF TURKEY: ARTVIN, ARDAHAN AND ERZURUM. Tao-Klarjeti played a much more important role in the history of Georgia than that of just another province. It is the very place where the idea of a unified Georgian state was born and executed; this is where the first united army of Iberia and Colchis was formed. The 11th century chronicler, Leonti Mroveli, tells how King Parnavaz of Iberia, the eastern Georgian kingdom, decided to confront the eastern Roman Empire, in the 3rd century BC. In this battle, he was joined by the Colchians and Ossetians and a battle took place at Huri, the city of the demons, which at that time had already been abandoned.

According to the Georgian chronicles (Kartlis Tskhovreba), of the oldest Georgian cities there were two fortress-cities founded by the sons of the mythical Kartlos - Tukharis (in Klarjeti) and Huri, the city of demons (in Artaani). The location of the Tukharis is not certain to this day, but a rock-cut complex near the Altas, still carrying the name of Nakalakoi (in Georgian this means abandoned city), probably witnessed this story. The first church for the newly-Christianized Iberia was built here, in the village of Erusheti, in Artaani, by the Byzantine masons travelling to Mtskheta. The first episcopates were formed here in Klarjeti in Ahiza and Mere, followed by the first monastery in Opiza – all during the reign of King Vakhtang Gorgasali. This is the region where the millennial reign of the Bagrationi dynasty began when Ashot Curopalates escaped the Arab invasion of Kartli to Southern Georgia and chose Artanuji castle as his residence. In the same period, a great hermit, St. Gregory of Khandzta, preached in this area; together with his brotherhood he established 12 monasteries in Klarjeti. The grandest cathedrals were built in Tao and the local architectural school inspired the entire Georgian architecture; theological literature was created and translated in the mon-

94 VOYAGER 10/2018

ARTVIN, ERZURUM, ARDAHAN PROVINCES

asteries of Tao-Klarjei, later spreading throughout the Georgian-speaking territories. This place marked the beginning of the journey of notable secular and clerical figures who went on to establish the Iviron monastery on Mount Athon; great Georgian treasures and miraculous icons were kept here, and what has survived hard times has been preserved in Georgian national museums or special archives. The history of Tao-Klarjeti did not end once the territorial ties with Georgia were severed. For any Georgian, Tao-Klarjeti was unattainable and mysterious during the 70 Soviet years. Today it’s easy to get there, but the simplicity of travel will not diminish the feeling of mystery that will follow you during the journey. THE BEST PERIOD TO TRAVEL THERE IS SUMMER OR EARLY FALL. THE SUMMER IS HOT IN THIS REGION SO MAKE SURE TO HAVE YOUR HEAD COVERED AND HAVE AN AMPLE SUPPLY OF DRINKING WATER AT ALL TIMES.

OSHKI The Oshki monastery is situated in the historic Tao, in the village of Çamlıyamaç in Erzurum province, near lake Tortum. The facets of the great domed Church of John the Baptist are rich with reliefs and inscriptions. A scene of pleading is depicted in the eastern part of the southern façade. The scene portrays King David who constructed the church with his brother Bagrat, both holding models of the church. Together with the Virgin Mary and John the Baptist they face Christ at the center of the scene. The story of how this church was constructed is told through writings engraved and painted on the walls.

MANY TOURIST COMPANIES OFFER TRIPS TO TAO-KLARJETI. HOWEVER, YOU CAN PLAN A TRIP TO HISTORIC GEORGIA INDEPENDENTLY, WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS; YOUR SMARTPHONE MAP WITH GPS DATA WILL INDICATE ALL THE ROADS TO YOU. TO TRAVEL TO TAO-KLARJETI YOU CAN CHOOSE ONE OF THE BORDER CROSSINGS IN SARPI, VALE OR KARTSAKHI.

The church was consecrated on March 25, 963, on the day of the Annunciation. It took 10 years to complete it. During the 20th century, a mosque was established in the southern part of the church. The ruins of a grandiose monastery complex are located to the east from the church.

The first settlement after you cross from Sarpi is Kemalpaşa, or as it was called before - Makriali, as well as Noghedi. Today it is known for an abundance of trade inns. There is a building on the sea shore entangled in ivy. This is a small hall church with a high tower. The wedding of King Bagrat V and Helena Komnenos was held in Makriali in 1367. If you are crossing at Vale, the Khertvisi fortress will be at your back. When you cross the border, you will encounter numerous towers of the Kura Valley defense system. If you follow Kura along the Ardahan-Çıldır road, you will find one of the greatest fortifications of historic Georgia: the Saytan Kale, the Old Qajis (demons’) Castle, whose real history was forgotten, but lives on in Shota Rustaveli’s poem “The Knight in the Panther’s Skin”.

3 DAY ROUTE:

4 DAY ROUTE:

 Sarpi border crossing point - Hopa, Mamatsminda, Dolisqana, Artanuji, Ahiza (from the road) - city of Artvin  City of Artvin - Khandzta, Otkhta Eklesia - city of Yusufeli  City of Yusufeli - Oshki, Khakhuli - Sarpi border crossing point

 Vale border crossing point (through Ardahan

5 DAY ROUTE:

- Arsiani gorge) - Shavsheti, Satle castle, Tbeti, Khandzta, Opiza - City of Artvin

 City of Artvin - Artanuji, Dolisqana, Otkhta Eklesia - city of Yusufeli

 Vale border crossing point - Qaji Castle, Çıldır lake, Tbeti, Satle - city of Shavsheti

 City of Shavsheti - Khandzta, Opiza, Artanuji, Ahiza - city of Artvin

 City of Artvin - Ishkhani, Esbeq, Bana - city of Yusufeli

City of Yusufeli - Oshki, Khakhuli, Ishkhani 

 City of Yusufeli - Otkhta Eklesia, Khakhuli, Oshki -

 City of Yusufeli -Bana, Çıldır, Qaji Castle - Vale

 City of Yusufeli - Dolisqana, Mamatsminda - Vale

city of Yusufeli

City of Yusufeli

border crossing point

95 VOYAGER 10/2018

border crossing point

BANA Bana is located in historic Tao, on a hill near the village of Penek in Erzurum Province. The surroundings of the Penek river, with its numerous hills, make a great impression on visitors.

Once a cathedral and an episcopal see, which also included an episcopal palace and a small church, it lies in ruins. The cathedral itself is a rounded structure. Each of the four parts had a dedicated arched opening in the main circle. Sumbat, son of David, tells us in the Georgian Chronicles that Adarnase (888-923), son of the King of Georgians Davit Bagrationi, “built Bana through the hands of Kvirike of Bana, who became the first bishop of Bana.”

ARTANUJI Artanuji (Ardanuç) is located on the Arantuji-Ardahan road, on a high rocky massif cliff and around it, on the left bank of Ardanuç River. Artanuji is known as the residence of Ashot Curopalates and the residence of the kings of the Georgian kingdom. During the medieval period, the fortress maintained a significant fortification function, at the same time becoming a trading center.

PARNAKI As soon as you pass the turn to the village of İriağaç, on the way from Yusufeli to Bana, a beautiful natural sight will appear on the left side of the road. The Parnaki Castles (called Oğlan ve Kız Kaleleri, which in Turkish means the castles of son and daughter) were built where the waters of Oltisi and Bana rivers join and historically controlled these two valleys. The Oğlan Kalesi stands on a separate hill, the walls of a church can be seen from a distance even today. The exact time of construction is unknown.

The inner fortress is set on naturally inaccessible rock, where ruins of various structures still remain. Apart from the castle walls, one can find tunnels, a water cistern and a church (probably Peter and Paul church) built between 810-820 by Ashot Curopalates. The king was later buried here. sanctuary on a row, where holy fathers are depicted. The southern façade of the church is decorated with reliefs and inscriptions: a beautiful inscription in Asomtavruli script lies on two massive stones above a window: “Christ please honor our King Sumbat with longevity”. The King Sumbat statue with a model of the church in his hands is on the dome and south side.

DOLISQANA The Dolisqana Dome Church is located in Hamamlı village. It was constructed relatively late compared to other Klarjeti monasteries – in the 850-950 period. The church was turned into a mosque from the 19th century to the end of the 20th. Dolisqana was painted, but only fragments of 11th century paintings remain on the upper part of 96 VOYAGER 10/2018

ESBEKI Esbeki is located in historic Tao, near the Darıca village in Artvin district, on the left bank of the Oltu river. There was a great monastic center in Esbeki, but its history is unknown. A large basilica-type church and a small separate chapel were probably built in the 9th century. The brick hall church is dated to the 15th and 16th centuries.

ARTVIN, ERZURUM, ARDAHAN PROVINCES

MAMATSMINDA

OPIZA

OTKHTA EKLESIA

This small church is located in the historic Klarjeti, in Borçka, near the Ibrikli village. This is a small-size, cross-shaped domed church that is completely covered with inner paintings.

The former monastery of Opiza is located in historic Klarjeti, in Bağcılar, Artvin district. Opiza monastery is the oldest monastery in all Georgia.

The great Lavra of Otkhta Eklesia is located in historic Tao above the Tekkale village. To get there, one walks some 50 meters up from a roadside spring. The main church is of a basilica type, and the internal space is divided into three navels with five pairs of columns. The grandiose space makes an unforgettable impression on the visitors.

There is a rare iconography in the eastern arch: “The souls of the righteous are in the hands of the Lord”. The church was constructed and painted in the 15th – 16th centuries.

Holy relics of John the Baptist were enshrined here. Today, only the grand ruins remain in place of this once great religious and educational center. The church was blown up in the middle of the previous century and only two wall fragments are left.

Traces of reconstruction on the church walls indicate that the space was changed and its height increased. The changes most probably happened during the reign of King David III Curopalates (960-1001). On the top edge of the eastern facade there is an inscription to glorify him. There are 10th century frescoes on the altar. A woman depicted in the arch of a window with a church in her hands is the mother of all churches, Zion, personification of the city of Jerusalem. A small church is built with intermissions of brick and stone. The building has two floors, the church is above, and a crypt below it.

ISHKHANI Ishkhani is located in historic Tao, on the border of Klarjeti, in İşhan, a village in the Artvin province. This large domed church was constructed in the 9th to 11th centuries, while the facades were decorated in the 11th century. The façade decoration process is connected with bishop Anton of Ishkhani, as inscriptions on the southern facade of the church inform us. King George I (1014-1027) and Bagrat IV (1027-1072) are mentioned here as well. The interior of the church was painted, the best surviving 11th century painting is in the dome, where the Ascension of the Cross is depicted against a blue background. A small hall church is located to the north of the main church, and its inscription mentions King Gurgen (994-1008). D. Kldiashvili used the motives and themes of the door decoration of this chapel when creating the coat of arms of TSU (Tbilisi State University).

ISHKHANI WAS THE FIRST GEORGIAN MONUMENT IN TURKEY TO UNDERGO RESTORATION WORKS (FROM 2013-2016).

COMMENTARY

• Due to the fact that both Ishkhani and Parkhali are undergoing restoration, Parkhali may be closed to tourists in 2018 and Ishkhani may only be viewed from the outside. • There is a functioning mosque in the main church of Khakhuli; the local imam cheerfully greets tourists with only one condition – they must leave their shoes outside the sacred space. If the building is

97 VOYAGER 10/2018

locked, ask the locals and they will soon get in touch with the imam. • Most Tao-Klarjeti churches are registered cultural heritage sites. There are no guards here, and nobody will take any admission fee; at first glance the places may seem desolate and abandoned. DO NOT LIGHT THE CANDLES ON THE STONES AND WALLS OF THE CHURCHES; YOU SHOULD KEEP THE CANDLE IN YOUR HAND.

century during the reign of Ashot Kukhi (†918) and Gurgen “The Great” Eristavt-Eristavi (†941). The inscription on the Khandzta bell tower mentions Markoz. This information corresponds to the data given in the “Book of Souls” (Sultmatiane) of Mount Sinai, which also names Markoz as the builder of the bell tower and indicates the 14th century as the period when it was built.

KHANDZTA Khandzta church is located among the rocky mountains of Klarjeti, near a turn towards Pırnalı village from Artvin-Ardahan road. A road sign - Porta Manastırı – will point you to the direction of the monastery; please note that you will need to walk for at least half an hour on this road.

Khandzta is known as the monastery of Gregory of Khandzta, the first of the 12 monasteries. Here you will encounter a kind of oasis with generous fruit orchards, terraces, water channels and reservoirs, numerous monastic buildings, large chambers and small cells, with several churches and bell towers. The large church is cross-domed, built by Amona at the beginning of the 10th

PARKHALI

TBETI

A basilica-type church is situated in historic Tao, at the border of Lazeti in Barhal village. This church is very similar to Otkhta Eklesia as it is the exact replica of a grand church. The construction of Parkhali is also connected to the reign of David Curopalates and dates to the end of the 10th century. Until recently the church building was utilized as a mosque. Restoration of Parkhali began in 2016.

Ruins of the grand Tbeti cathedral are located in historic Shavsheti, Cevizli village in the Artvin. The complex was blown up in the 1960s. The church is a cross-domed structure; its core dates

to the second half of the 10th century, and the southern side to the 13th century. There were 12th century paintings, now almost completely destroyed.

SATLE The Satle Castle (Şavşat Kalesi) is located in the historic Shavsheti region. A high hill is surrounded by tall walls, inside one can find remains of a local feudal lord’s palace, a court church, a bath constructed at a later stage and other buildings. The site is undergoing archeological excavations and restoration works. 98 VOYAGER 10/2018

ARTVIN, ERZURUM, ARDAHAN PROVINCES

in the southern facade of the church is decorated with ornamented arches, with an almost three-dimensional sculpture of an eagle in the middle of it. The southern entrance is also richly adorned with sculptures of a lion, Biblical Jonah, griffin, St. Peter, a rooster and Alexander the Great. In the niche above the door, there is a composition depicting the Ascension of the Cross.

KHAKHULI Khakhuli monastery is located in historic Tao, on the road to Erzurum. This is basically the last ecclesiastical point of historic Georgia. A sign saying “Haho Manastırı” on the road to Bağbaşı village points us in the direction of the historic monument. This old monastery retains the outer walls and an arched gate, and three churches remain on its territory. The large church of Virgin Mary is cross-domed.

Apparently, the Easter tradition was especially strong in Khakhuli, Even at the beginning of the 20th century Muslim women used to bring colored eggs to plead to the icon of Virgin Mary. The interior of the Khakhuli church was entirely painted. A depiction of the Ascension of the Cross against a blue background adorns the dome. The frescoes date to the 11th century. A smaller church was built in the 10th century to accompany the large domed church.

Anchiskhati belonged to Anchi Cathedral and was transferred from Klarjeti only in the 16th century. Anchiskhati is traditionally considered to be “the face of God”, though the plaque on which the face of the Savior is shown was covered in wax in the 6th century. The icon is in the frame inlaid by Beqa of Opiza. It was housed in Tbilisi Zari

 Hotel Barcelona,

Arikli Mah. No:77, Yusufeli Merkez, Yusufeli, Artvin

 Eliya Pansiyon/ Restoran

Cayagzi mahallesi Sarigol, Yusufeli, Artvin

 Hotel Green Valley Savsat

Savsat / Ardahan Karayolu Uzeri 2 km Savsat, Artvin

 Koru Hotel Artvin

Yeni Mahalle 19 Mayıs Cad. Ormanyolu Sok., Artvin

POPULAR DISHES: Muhlama (Kuymak): corn flour and cheese stewed in butter; Alabalık: freshly caught trout, bred in local reservoirs, fried, garnished with greens and lemon; Oltu Cağ Kebap: Oltu style barbecue, lamb roasted on a skewer, then thinly sliced and wrapped into a flat round bread.

A sculpture of a pigeon - the Holy Spirit - is cut in a special niche in the altar, where the leader of the church was to be seated. A double window TWO OF THE MOST IMPORTANT GEORGIAN HOLY RELICS ORIGINATE FROM TAO-KLARJETI: ANCHISKHATI (ANCHI ICON) AND THE ICON OF KHAKHULI.

THE HOTELS HERE ARE USUALLY 3 OR 4 STAR AND OFFER GUESTS TRADITIONAL TURKISH BREAKFAST. YOU CAN ORDER DINNER HERE AS WELL.

USUALLY, THE FOOD IS VERY TASTY EVEN IN THE PLAINEST LOKANTA (LOCAL EATERY). COMMENT

church, which subsequently gave the church and the whole city district its name - Anchiskhati. The history of the Khakhuli icon is different: the icon of Virgin Mary, which was part of an icon triptych, belonged to the church of Khakhuli in Tao. David the Builder moved it from Tao to the newly-established Gelati, also called “Second Jerusalem” (where it stayed until 1952). The Khakhuli icon is the largest among the medieval Georgian icons and is the second largest in the Byzantine world (2x1.47 m). It is abundantly adorned with precious stones and pearls, enamel icons and reliquaries. The background of the Khakhuli triptych is golden, the side doors are gilded silver and the back is silver. There are two large crosses set against floral background which are preserved as they were in Khakhuli. You can view the Anchiskhati and Khakhuli icons in Tbilisi in the treasury of the national Museum of Art. 99 VOYAGER 10/2018

Due to the fact that churches and monasteries are scattered in various gorges, something that may seem a short distance at a glance may take up to one hour, as the roads in the high mountains are winding. The main roads are good, comfortable and wide. Most of the roads that lead up to the churches are all either paved or covered with concrete. Look for brown road signs, as they point to most of the tourist locations. There are no local guides at the sites and you will not be able to hire anybody who will tell you the history of the sights in a hotel or city. However, you may find someone who will show the way even on a village road. People are eager to help here. They will help you get to your destination and will not hurry you. If you are offered some tea, do not refuse, this is a friendly gesture.

TRABZON According to Greek sources, the city of Trabzon was founded by the Miletus merchants in VII BC. Since then, many conquerors have ruled over it: Cimmerians, Medians, Greeks, Byzantines and Ottomans, though in the course of its existence, the city has never lost its strategic and commercial significance. Trabzon, situated in the north-east of the country, on the shore of the Black Sea was one of the key points on the great Silk Road. Genoese and Venetians used to trade in this city, and to this day it remains the largest port city of the Turkish Black Sea coast.

THE BEST VIEW OF TRABZON OPENS FROM BOZTEPE PARK, SPREAD ACROSS A MOUNTAIN. MAKE SURE TO VISIT THIS PLACE IN THE EVENING WITH A CUP OF TEA TO ENJOY THE SUNSET. THE PARK IS LOCATED 15 MINUTES WALK FROM ATATÜRK ALANI SQUARE.

A large part of the local population is made up of the Laz people, who speak the Kartvelian language. There is a close connection between Georgia and Trabzon for historic reasons: in 1204, after the Crusaders took control of Constantinople, during the 4th crusade, the Trabzon Empire was established on the territory of the former Kingdom of Pontus, with the support of the Georgian King Tamar. The city of Trabzon was declared the capital of the new state. Its first emperor Alexios Komnenos was the son of Tamar’s sister Rusudan and the Byzantine prince Manuel Komnenos. THE DISTANCE FROM BATUMI TO TRABZON IS 206 KILOMETERS.

AYASOFYA Ayasofya, located on the sea shore, 3.3 km away from Trabzon, is a striking example of Byzantine art. This XIII century cross-domed cathedral was constructed with a visible influence of Georgian architecture.

Its impressive wall painting was covered with lime mortar for a long time. The surviving Christian frescoes were uncovered in 1950. Ayasofya became a mosque during the rule of the Ottoman Empire. In 1964, it was turned into a museum, and since 2013 to this day is has once again housed a mosque. The ruins of a Roman Temple were discovered in the yard of the structure. After conversion to a mosque, local artefacts were moved to the Trabzon Museum and a portion of the wall paintings covered with an awning. Entry to the temple is free of charge. A taxi fare from the city center will cost on average 15 TRY. Fatih Mah., Zübeyde Hanım Cad.

ZORLU GRAND HOTEL

PARK DEDEMAN

This hotel is located in the center of Trabzon. It features an indoor swimming pool, recreational center, fitness hall and a traditional Turkish bath. Façuna Fish – The hotel restaurant serves a wide choice of fish and seafood dishes made using local recipes. The local cafes offer delicious desserts and ice cream.

The hotel is just 10 minutes walk from the Black Sea shore and just 500 meters away from Kasustu beach. Consequently, there is a panoramic view of the sea from the terraces and some of the rooms. The other side overlooks the mountains. Standard room price: starting from 50 €

Standard room price: starting from 150 € Maraş Caddesi, 9; zorlugrand.com 100 VOYAGER 10/2018

Kasustu Belediyesi Sana Mevkii, No: 75 dedeman.com

TRABZON / TRABZON PROVINCE, BLACK SEA COAST

Services in the monastery were resumed for the first time on August 15th 2010, on the festival day of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary according to the Greek calendar. Since 2015, the monastery has been closed for restoration works and is scheduled to open in August 2018.

SUMELA The IV century Virgin Mary Monastery is one of the most mystical places in the region. Sumela is located 29 km away from Trabzon. This cave monastery was carved out of the rock at a height of 1,200 meters above the sea level and its terraces offer a beautiful view of the valley.

The monastery complex includes a cathedral, libraries, cells and various other constructions. Wall painting layers date back to IXXIX centuries. During its existence, the monastery went through numerous enemy attacks. Orthodox monks left the place for good in 1923.

CUISINE

A TAXI FARE FROM THE CITY WILL COST APPROXIMATELY 60 TRY.

Trabzon is responsible for 20% of the fish caught in Turkey. The local anchovies are famous. It constitutes the main dish in many restaurants in the city.

TRABZON IN PARTICULAR AND THE TURKISH BLACK SEA COASTLINE IN GENERAL ARE KNOWN FOR THEIR RICH LOCAL CUISINE. A GREAT DEAL OF ATTENTION IS PAID TO THE DEVELOPMENT OF LOCAL AGRICULTURE: 70% OF THE HAZELNUT HARVEST IN TURKEY COMES FROM TRABZON. LOCAL PRODUCTION OF PERSIMMON, CHERRY, KIWI, TEA AND CEREAL CROPS ARE FAMOUS.

The same fish is used in the preparation of the doughy dish Hamsi koli.

VAKFIKEBIR EKMEGI

MUHLAMA

This is a local bread baked in an iron oven with firewood, which usually weighs between 450 grams and 7,5 kg. Mchadi (corn bread) is also popular in this region due to the abundant corn harvest.

Similar to Georgian elarji, Turkish muhlama is made of coarse ground corn flour and cheese in a Black Sea-style fondue. Corn flour is roasted in butter then water and salty cheese are added.

HAMSILI PILAV

A pilav with anchovy is one such culinary masterpiece. Aromatic rice saturated with fish fat and spices is not only delicious but very healthy.

KAYADIBI SAKLIBAHCE This terraced restaurant, located at the edge of the forest near the Sumela Monastery, is the best place to relax and try local dishes. Due to high demand, you should reserve a table in advance online or by telephone. Maçka Tünel Çıkısı Nesi Mevkii No:4

VOSPOROS

BORDO MAVI CAFE

Trabzon’s popular café with a wooden terrace and graffiti decorated walls is located on the territory of the Uzun Sokak shopping center. Here you can try local dishes such as a dolma wrapped in grape leaves or kuymak, similar to Georgian elarji. Open: 07.50 am -11.30 pm

Located in the city center, this is the most popular place for a light snack according to local gourmands. Open: 08.00 am -11.00 pm Meydan

FEVZI HOCA BALIK VE KÖFTE You can try diverse dishes from local fresh sea products in this sea food restaurant. Open: 09.00 am -11.00 pm Çarşı Mh., Kahramanmaraş Cd. No:52

Uzun Sk. Zafer Çarşısı No: 53 101 VOYAGER 10/2018

FORUM The best mall in Trabzon offers products from major local and international brands. It also houses a cinema, restaurants and bars. Open: Every day, 10.00 am -10.00 pm Devlet Sahil Yolu Caddesi, 100. Yıl Parkı Yanı Değirmendere

THE KALESI CITADEL is located on the highest mountain of Ankara (height 978 meters). The whole of Ankara can be seen from its towers. The citadel’s complex structure includes 42 five-angled towers. The castle has seven gates.

ANKARA

The interior walls of the citadel date back to VII century. In 1832, Ibrahim Pasha ordered the walls to be rebuilt. It is as if the whole of Ankara’s history is built into these walls: wounded Roman columns, sarcophagus, Greek-Roman inscriptions, Byzantine crosses and Seljuk stones. There are several Ottoman house-museums, restaurants and souvenir shops on the narrow streets of the fortress territory. Here you can buy modern or antique carpets and rugs.

IRENE GIVIASHVILI Ataturk declared this once provincial city as the capital of the Republic of Turkey in 1923. Ankara was Ataturk’s headquarters from 1920, as he led the struggle for independence against the Ottoman Sultanate and against Greece. Ankara, located in the center of Anatolia, was historically built on the crossroads of trade routes. The location determined Ataturk’s choice. Ankara has an ancient history and cultural heritage. Its past goes back to the Bronze Age (2000 BC), when Central Anatolia was ruled by the Hattians, an Indo-European civilization, who were then replaced by the Phrygians, Lydians, Persians and Greeks. The small settlement gained great importance as a trading center. This happened during the Greek rule, who came to the settlement in 300 BC. That’s when they called the town Ancyra. The Greeks were replaced by the Galatians. The city was subsequently A LARGE DIPLOMATIC CORPS ACCREDITED IN TURKEY IS LOCATED IN ANKARA. THE EMBASSY OF GEORGIA IS LOCATED IN THE DIPLOMATIC CITY OF ORNIS. IT WAS BUILT IN 2006. A CONSULAR SERVICE IS PRESENT ALONG WITH THE EMBASSY.

passed under the control of the Roman Empire. In 25 BC, Emperor Augustus raised it to the status of administrative center. It was built on the edge of the citadel and a river. The river no longer exists – it flows in pipes under the road with a highway running on top. Small but significant Roman monuments can still be seen in the suburbs of Ulus, Kalesi and Haci Bayram. After the disintegration of the Roman Empire, Emperor Constantine moved the Byzantine capital to Constantinople. Ancyra became a kind of summer residence for the emperors, where Ancyra’s dry and cool mountain climate sheltered them from the heat and humidity. At that time, the city maintained its trading function. The Byzantines were replaced by Seljuks and Mongols. Seljuks came from Asia Minor in 1073 and conquered Ankara along with the Cen102 VOYAGER 10/2018

tral Anatolian lands. They left magnificent monuments of Ankara Seljuk art, available for viewing at the citadel. During the Ottoman era (from 1403) Ancyra, or Angora, as it was called at this time, remained a commercial center. This was when Ankarian wool was exported to Venice, Poland and England, and was known under the name of “Angora”. The wool of goats bread in the Ankara steppes is the best and it is successfully exported to this day. Many new mosques and caravanserai, closed bazaars and baths were constructed during the Ottoman period. The baths are still functioning. IT IS INTERESTING THAT ACCORDING TO THE 1924 ANKARA MAP, THERE WAS A SMALL TBILISI MOSQUE IN THE LOWER PART OF THE KALESI DISTRICT, WHICH SEEMS TO BE A PRAYER SITE FOR MUSLIM TRADERS FROM TBILISI. UNFORTUNATELY, THE MOSQUE WAS DESTROYED DURING A HUGE DISTRICT IN THE FIRE IN THE LAST CENTURY.

ANKARA / ANKARA PROVINCE

After Ankara became the capital of the Republic of Turkey in 1923, the new city plan was designed by Herman Janens, a German architect. He developed the city south from the citadel. The socalled Kizilay Avenue and Ataturk Boulevard houses parks, squares and trading streets, similar to European cities. The early architecture of the Republic period is distinguished by novelty on the one hand and nostalgia for traditional forms on the other. “Ankara Palace” is a good example of this approach – a hotel where Ataturk held important meetings and balls; also, the Painting and Sculpture Museum and Ethnographic Museum. All three buildings were built in the 1920s (in the Ulus and Sihei District).

 DIVAN CUKURHAN The most remarkable boutique hotel in Ankara is located in the XVII century caravanserai. All 19 rooms are set up with individual designs. Necatibey Mah. Depo Sokak No: 3 Tarihi Ankara Kalesi, 06240 Altındağ  SHERATON This hotel is located in the center of the city in the Kavaklıdere district. You can dine in the Lugal restaurant situated in the hotel. Here you can order Adjarian Khachapuri. Kavaklıdere Mahallesi, Şht. Ömer Haluk Sipahioğlu Sk., 06700 Çankaya

From the 1940s, new Ankara started looking for modern forms. Simple, almost constructivist, buildings are erected on the Ataturk Boulevard. The opera house, which was originally planned as an exhibition pavilion, stands out. The Atatürk mausoleum belongs to the same period.

 MARRIOTT The most fashionable hotel in Ankara. Kızılırmak Mahallesi, Muhsin Yazıcıoğlu Cd. No:1, 06520 Çankaya

“NEW TURKEY” - THIS IS THE NAME OF ERDOĞAN’S ERA, WHICH IS CHARACTERIZED BY RAPID ECONOMIC BOOM; IT IS REFLECTED IN THE CITY, ACCORDINGLY. NEW HIGHWAYS, GLASS SKYSCRAPERS, A GRANDIOSE MOSQUE (MELIKE HATUN CAMII) AND THE PRESIDENTIAL COMPLEX (CUMHURBAŞKANLIĞI KÜLLIYESI), WHICH HOLDS THE STATUS OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST PALACE, ARE THE NEW SIGHTS OF ANKARA.

Ankara State Universities: Ankara Üniversitesi, Hacettepe Üniversitesi, Gazi Üniversitesi, Middle East Technical University – Georgian students can receive a full scholarship that covers their tuition. There are private universities where teaching is in English. Bilkent University has the highest rating among them.

A TRIP TO A SHOPPING CENTER IS ONE OF THE FAVORITE LEISURE ACTIVITIES OF MODERN ANKARIANS. NICE SHOPS ARE SURROUNDED WITH RESTAURANT STREETS, CAFES AND MEETING PLACES.

The main shopping and entertainment centers are: Anka Mall, Armada, One Tower, Panora, 365, CEPA, Real Bilkent and more. Visit Beymen’s Brandroom, Next Level or Panora, if you are looking for brand products.

In Ankara, you can hire a taxi – a yellow hailing machine is attached to every second pole at every step. A taxi will arrive within 2 minutes after you’ve clicked it. This transport is much cheaper than in Europe.

103 VOYAGER 10/2018

TRILYE This fish restaurant has become one of Ankara;s best known sights and is famous all around Turkey for its fish dishes. Çankaya Mahallesi, Kazım Özalp Mah. Kuleli Sok. No: 32, 06680

MODERN RESTAURANT FRANCHISES OFFER ALCOHOL, THEREFORE THE PRICES ARE HIGH. ALCOHOL IS NOT SERVED IN TRADITIONAL TURKISH LOCANTAS WHERE THE FOOD IS ALWAYS TASTY AND OF HIGH QUALITY AND THE PRICES MORE AFFORDABLE.

If you are staying in Ankara, we recommend that you visit any of these restaurants for lunch or dinner: Nusr-Et Steakhouse Ankara, Big Chefs, Butcha Steakhouse, Adanas Kebap Steakhouse, Mezzaluna, Balik Evi, The House Café, Kichnette, Recep Usta (Kurdish kitchen without alcohol). FOLLOW THIS LINK TO VIEW INFORMATION ABOUT CULTURAL NEWS AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ANKARA IN ENGLISH: WWW.LAVARLA.COM/LA-CITY

ANADOLU MEDENIYETLERI MÜZESI

AGUSTUS TAPINAGI

The Temple of Augustus is located next to Haci Bayram Camii, left from the citadel road. The ruins of the grandiose Roman temple (36x55m) are important largely due to the extensive inscriptions on its walls. The inscriptions, as well as the cathedral, date back to the I century. The original text, which was cut into the bronze pillars of the Augustus Mausoleum in Rome, has not survived. Augustus speaks about his political and military achievements in the inscription.

The Museum of Anatolian Civilizations is located in Ulus, on the hill of the Citadel. The museum is housed in the XV century caravanserai and bazaar, where textiles and Ankara wool were traded. There are many ancient civilization and cultural artefacts found on the territory of Turkey from the Paleolithic, Neolithic, the Bronze Age, Hittite, Phrygian, Urartu, Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman eras. The numismatic collection includes Ghiyath al-Din Kaykhusraw II silver dirhams “Sun and Lion”, minted in 1240-1243. According to legend, the coin depicts his wife, Gürcü Hatun.

IT IS INTERESTING THAT THE INSCRIPTION MENTIONS IBERIA, WHERE AUGUSTUS’S ARMY WENT BUT DID NOT LEAVE A RULER. THIS STORY CORRESPONDS TO THE STORY OF THE POMPEUS CAMPAIGN IN OUR HISTORIOGRAPHY.

The carpets museum presents carpets and other antiquities from mosque repositories. In the exhibition, you can see the fragments of the wooden minbar from the Devagiri madrasa, made by master Al-Ahmad of Tbilisi. Entry is free. Open: Monday-Friday - 8 am- 5 pm.

JULIANUS SUTUNU

Anafartalar Mahallesi, Atatürk Blv No:23

ROMA TIYATROSU

ROMA HAMAMI

Roman baths are located in Ulus, Çankırı Caddesi. The baths date back to 212-217 and were built by the Roman Emperor Caracalla, in honor of Asclepius, the god of medicine. The bath functioned for over 500 years.

Kale Mh., Gözcü Sk. No:2 06240 Ulus/Altındağ

ANKARA VAKIF ESERLERI MÜZESI

The Roman obelisk is located at Ulus, on Hukumet Meydani. This 15 m tall column marks the visit of the Roman Emperor Julian in Ankara in 362. The amphitheater is located on the left slope of the road leading to the Citadel. It dates back to the 2nd century. The amphitheater probably seated 3,000-5,000 spectators.

Open: every day - 8:30 am - 4 pm. Ticket price: 15 TRY

ARSLANHANE CAMII ANITKABIR

The Atatürk mausoleum is located in the western part of the city, in Anit Caddesi, and is seen from almost every district of the city. Built in 1941-53 by Turkish architects, the mausoleum is distinguished by the monumentalism and the simplicity of this period. The “Hall of Fame” is based on the principles of old Roman architecture and is considered that it reflects the architecture of Augustus’s temple, while the ritual way of “Lion’s Alley” revives Hittite art. The mausoleum and museum are free of charge. Mebusevleri Mh., 06570 Çankaya 104 VOYAGER 10/2018

The Seljuk mosque located in Ulus, in the citadel suburb, Can Sokak. Along with Aladdin’s mausoleum, which lies inside the Citadel and dates back to 1178, Arslanhane is one of the early mosques of Ankara. It was built around 1290. The mihrab made of emerald-colored ceramic tiles and wood minbar were completed at that time as well - both of them are distinctive examples of Seljuk art.

ANKARA / ANKARA PROVINCE

CERMODERN

The Museum of Contemporary Art was opened in Altinsoy caddesi in 2010 and annually hosts the world’s leading artists’ expositions, photo exhibitions and other events.

WHAT YOU CAN VISIT ON A DAY TRIP FROM ANKARA: GORDION

Gordion (Ankara-Eskişehir road, 40 km), is known by the legend of the Gordian knot. Alexander the Great who arrived here in 333 opened it up with a sword. Here you will see the site of a former Gordian city, the barrows of King Midas and Gorda and a small archaeological museum of the Phrygians.

The ticket price changes according to the exhibition.

TUZ GÖLÜ

Open: Tuesday - Sunday - 10 am – 6 pm; Closed on Mondays. Anafartalar Mahallesi, Altınsoy Cad. No:3, 06101 Sıhhıye / Altındağ/Altındağ

CENGELHAN RAHMI KOC MUZESI

The Koc Technological Development Museum is located in Kalesi in the Ottoman caravanserai, which was built in 1522-1523 for Süleyman Kanuni’s daughter. It is one of the biggest caravanserais of Ankara, where the leather trade took place. The story of the Koc family, one of the richest families in Turkey, started with a small caravanserai that stood here in 1917 trading ironware. The museum contains a replica of this small caravanserai.

The largest salt lake of Turkey is a 1.5-hour drive from Ankara. The lake stretches over 80 km and occupies 1,500 sq.m. Its depth reaches only 1.2 m and it dries up in the summer to just 30 cm deep. The salt content is one of the highest in the world (33%) and, therefore, it is rich in minerals. Lake water contains sodium chloride, iodine, potassium, magnesium, calcium, bromide, hydrogen and iron. Due to these minerals, the lake salt has

unique skin moisturizing and other medicinal properties. Lots of local or foreign tourists walk barefoot on the salt lake. Local cosmetic products made of salt and mud are sold here as well. is included in the UNESCO World Heritage list. It includes a number of precincts. Apart from the ruins of the city, the Lions’ Gate, 12 statues of gods and the first image of the two-headed eagle in the open-air temple makes a great impression.

HATTUSHA

Hattusha is a Hittite city located in the vicinity of the town of Boğazkale, 200 km away from Ankara. The Bronze Age castle (1500-1000 BC)

There is also a personal collection of the Koc family - all kinds of artefacts that reflect the development of science, engineering, medicine, aviation, navigation and other technologies. It includes part of the Koc family’s car collection too. This museum is particularly interesting for children and adolescents. Ticket price: 6 TRY Open: Tuesday-Sunday - 10 am – 5 pm. Closed on Mondays. Gözcü Sokak, 06230 Altındağ 105 VOYAGER 10/2018

KAPADOKYA

APPADOCIA IS C LOCATED ON A HIGH, DRY PLATEAU; IT IS HOT IN SUMMER AND COLD IN WINTER, THUS, SPRING AND FALL ARE THE BEST TIMES TO TRAVEL THERE.

LIKA BARABADZE Cappadocia is primarily associated with the early history of Christianity but it is worth traveling for many other interesting sights as well, something to be seen and experienced at least once. Cliffs of volcanic origin sculpted the unusual landscape of this area. Strange rock formations rise in every direction; sometime they take the form of waves, sometimes caves and sometimes cones. These cones are called “fairy chimneys”. The underground towns located here and the Göreme National Park remind us of some unbelievable scenery in films. They will transport us to the worlds of Star Wars and French science fiction writers. The Göreme National Park and its historical places are included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Cappadocia does not exist anymore; this name is just retained for the tourist industry. The area is now part of Anatolia and located in the middle of Turkey. Cappadocia was first mentioned in VI AD when the Zoroastrians lived there. Neolithic period instruments were found in this area. The ruins of the III BC Assyrian town Kanesh were discovered in the present-day town of Kültepe. The oldest written documents found in Turkey, preserved on clay plates, were found in this settlement.

and underground towns with intricate infrastructure developed. In the X-XI centuries, a calm period in Cappadocia saw churches and monasteries cut into the cliffs. Some fresco paintings have been preserved. In 1071, the Seljuks invaded the Byzantine Empire in this territory, defeated the Empire and conquered the land.

RO S E VALLE Y / G U LLU DE RE VADI S I The valley is covered with pale pink rocks and is breathtakingly beautiful. If you’re so inclined, you can walk to Çavusin (Göreme to Avanos direction) from the Rose Valley where you will find a beautiful and impressive settlement cut out of the rock. There are many buildings in the settlement, including the largest and oldest church in Cappadocia, the V century church of St. John the Baptist - Vaftizci Yahya Kilisesi. Unfortunately, due to the influence of natural forces, the building’s frescoes have faded and are now unclear. Visitors have to pay to enter the church but you can visit the rest of the settlement for free. You will need about one hour to visit the settlement.

Cappadocia was the center of early Christianity. It is mentioned in the New Testament (Acts 2: 9). Famous Christian theologians and saints lived here. Saint Nino was from Cappadocia also – a renowned preacher of Christianity in Georgia. Until the X century, the area of Cappadocia was under constant enemy attacks, so the culture of finding shelter in caves 106 VOYAGER 10/2018

CAPPADOCIA / CENTRAL ANATOLIA

Göreme and its national park are the most interesting sights

in this area, as well as the 40-minute drive to Derinkuyu and Kaymakli underground cities. Accordingly, when traveling to Cappadocia, most tourists stay in Göreme or its surroundings, though many go to nearby cities such as Nevşehir, Avanos and Ürgüp. The nearest airport is in the city of Kayseri where shuttles and taxis service all four towns. Prices from Kayseri Airport: Shuttle - 6 €, Taxi - 40-60 €

T HE M ONK V AL L EY / PASABAG VADISI Since the 6th century, ascetic monks have lived in these “chimneys” and their sites are still preserved. Anyone willing to climb and looking for adventures can enter the caves. It takes about two hours to walk around the valley.

You can hire a bicycle, scooter, car or even a horse to get around in the towns but keep in mind that they won’t be of much use - the most interesting sights are either in caves or underground. Transportation is only convenient to move from town to town.

DEVRENT VALLEY/ DEVRENT VADISI Here you can see fantastic rock formations – natural erosion has sculpted a whole zoo: some rocks are like dolphins, some like elephants, and others like fantastic creatures. Wait for sunset and watch a spectacular sight: all of these magic figures gradually change color and are painted many shades of sunset hues.

PIGEON VALLEY/ GÜVERCIN VADISI The “fairy chimneys” here reach heights of 40 meters. They used to house pigeons. The pigeon houses were carved for the comfort of the birds, which was necessary to help them to multiply. The fact is that the pigeons traditionally supplied Cappadocian agriculture with natural fertilizer. Plan for at least an hour-long walk in the Pigeon Valley. UCHISAR CASTLE A ROCKY SKYSCRAPER AMONG ONE-STORY HOUSES AND CAVES.

DERINKUYU More than 200 underground cities are located between Kayseri and Nevşehir, where the population sheltered from Arab, Mongol and other invasions. Many cities are linked to each other, and more than 40 of them have more than three underground “floors”. The most impressive is the VIII century Derinkuyu, which could hold 20,000 people. The city had unique underground infrastructure - wine and olive presses, churches, a school, a castle, a morgue and other facilities. Each “floor” is locked with large stones and stairs

ZELVE VALLEY / ZELVE VADISI Zelve, a small underground settlement, is located 5 km away from Avanos. The Zelve settlement includes separate valleys with the most “fairy chimneys”. From the IX to the XIII century, early Christians lived in Zelve. The first theological seminaries were held here. 107 VOYAGER 10/2018

are cut between them. The city had a 55-meter ventilation shaft and water well. KAYMAKLI In 1963, a local resident discovered Derinkuyu when he found a secret room behind a wall in his house. It turned out that Derinkuyu is connected to the second underground city of Kaymakli by a tunnel. Kaymakli is located 8 km away. The Kaymakli settlement appeared in VIII BC. Phrygians, Greeks and then Byzantine Christians lived here. In the twentieth century, the Cappadocian Greeks resided in this city.

Icon painting started in Cappadocia in the VII century. The frescoes in the openair museums remain in authentic shape, which adds more charm to this area.

are now fighting against the rocks and works of art - erosion is slowly interfering with the man-made frescoes and natural sculptures.

Unfortunately, the forces of nature that sculpted the Göreme National Park and offered shelter to its inhabitants

Cappadocia has the largest number of frescoes painted in the churches cut into the rock.

IHLARA VALLEY / IHLARA V ADISI ST. GEORGE’S CHURCH KIRKDAMATLI

Ihlara Valley is home to about 80 early Christian churches; twelve of them are open for tourists, including St. George’s Church Kirkdamatli with its beautiful frescoes. St. George’s Church features a fresco with a certain church supporter Tamar, presumably Gürcü Hatun.

is a large church located in the Selime Monastery. It is reinforced with two rows of columns. The columns and arches are cut out of the rock. The walls are adorned with frescoes. They are in bad condition - the walls are covered with soot, as the local shepherds used this place to prepare food. Ihlara does not look like other places in Cappadocia - instead of “fairy chimneys”, this 14 km valley is covered with trees, vineyards and pistachio gardens. IHLARA VALLEY IS 80 KM AWAY FROM GÖREME. WE RECOMMEND THAT YOU PURCHASE A TOUR. PRICE: STARTING AT 105 €

Selime Monastery is the most impressive sight in the Ilhara Valley. In different eras, it has sheltered Assyrian, Persian, Roman, Byzantine and Seljuk inhabitants. Selime Monastery was built in the VIII century; its frescoes date back to the X-XI centuries. There 108 VOYAGER 10/2018

FOLLOWING ST. BASIL OF CAESAREA, MONKS BEGAN SETTLING IN THE AREA OF C APPADOCIA. THEY CARVED CLOISTERS OUT OF THE SOFT ROCK. IN 725-842, CROSSES AND OTHER SYMBOLS WERE PAINTED, WHILE COLORFUL FRESCOES WERE PAINTED LATER IN THE NEWER CHURCHES.

If you decide to visit the Christian temples outside the open air museum (they are more difficult to reach), choose a tour with an experienced guide. The one-day tour includes both the Göreme Churches and other holy places. It starts with a visit to St. John Church (Karsi Kilise) which is located near the Gülsehir village and continues with the observation of two churches hidden in the Zemi Valley and then by visiting the famous church of John the Baptist in Çavuşin. It then ends with a visit to the monastery in Pancarlik Valley in Urgup. Price: 130 €

CAPPADOCIA / CENTRAL ANATOLIA

A trip to the Göreme Open-air Museum is a wonderful way to explore Cappadocia. The rocky landscape is an example of harmonious coexistence of unique nature and history.

GÖREME OPEN-AIR MUSEUM GÖREME ACIKHAVA MUZESI

Volcanic rock erosion has sculpted strange rock formations, which became home to Byzantine ecclesiastical art. The first monasteries were established in the IV century when early Christian monks started living in caves on the territory of the national park. They later moved to the underground cities to find shelter from attacks. It will take you about 2-3 hours to walk around the museum. Please wear comfortable shoes and clothing and bring plenty of water.

THE BUCKLE CHURCH TOKALI KILISE

The Buckle Church Tokali Kilise is the largest church in Göreme. It is located on the opposite side of the museum’s entrance. The church is adorned with IX century frescoes. The later, XI century frescoes are interesting as well. The church itself consists of four divisions: the old church, the new church, a tomb and the lower church. The old church was built in the X century and is located at the entrance of the new church. It is decorated with pale red and green paintings. Indigo frescoes decorate the new church.

DARK CHURCH KARANLIK KILISE

The XI century cathedral with a dome houses remarkably well-kept frescoes with vivid colors. Unlike the other churches, light almost never reaches inside the Dark Church and thus the frescoes are much better protected from natural forces, though it took a great effort to restore this treasure as after Turkish invasion and until the 1950s, it was used as a pigeon house.

SNAKE CHURCH YILANLI CHURCH

The Yilanli Church is a church with a long nave and it features a fresco of St. George and a snake, hence its name. The Emperor Constantine, his mother Saint Helena and other saints are depicted on the walls also.

APPLE CHURCH ELMALI KILISE

This little church was built in 1050 and was restored in 1991. However, its frescoes are constantly undergoing erosion; the earlier frescoes are seen underneath the later ones. It is called the Apple Church because of the red circle in the left hand of the Archangel Michael. SAINT BARBARA CHURCH AZIZE BARBARA KILISESI

Entry costs 10 Lira (please carry cash, credit cards are not accepted).

is a XI century church located behind the Apple Church. It is covered in frescoes and ochre geometric shapes (the monks painted using red ochre so that the cave walls would resemble stone). The name of the SAN-

DAL CHURCH ÇARIKLI KILISE is related to the two

footprints on the ascension fresco. This church is located in the same rock as the Dark Church. Its paintings date back to the XI century. 109 VOYAGER 10/2018

PLAN A HOT AIR BALLOON FLIGHT ON THE VERY FIRST DAY OF YOUR JOURNEY. THE FLIGHT DEPENDS ON THE WEATHER AND HOT AIR BALLOONS DO NOT LEAVE THE GROUND IF THERE IS ANY INCREASED WIND. EXPERIENCED PILOTS ARE PARTICULARLY CAUTIOUS. THEY WILL NOT RISK FLYING IN BAD WEATHER. ACCORDINGLY, YOUR FLIGHT MAY BE DELAYED TO YOUR SECOND OR THIRD DAY. YOU WILL NEED 3-4 DAYS TO SEE CAPPADOCIA. THIS TIME INCLUDES A HOT AIR BALLOON FLIGHT - YOU CAN’T HAVE A TRUE CAPPADOCIA EXPERIENCE WITHOUT IT.

THE HOT AIR BALLOONS LEAVE THE GROUND AT 5.00-5.30 AM. THERE ARE TWO REASONS FOR THIS:

HOT AIR BALLOONS If you’re a real traveler and you’re looking for adventure, you cannot just walk past the hot air balloons. Every morning, Cappadocia’s sky is covered with hundreds of colored hot air balloons, which is a unique spectacle, though the main sight is looking down from the sky at the fantastic, magical and unbelievable beauty.

There are many hot air balloon companies in Göreme and other towns. When choosing, pay attention to the experience - how well prepared and certified the pilots are, how many years the company has been operating, and what insurance do they offer. At the same time, your preferences are important as well: the duration of air

1. THIS IS THE MOST FAVORABLE TIME TO FLY 2. YOU CAN SEE THE SUNRISE!

travel, the number of people in the hot air balloon and, therefore, the price. You can book a short, 45-minute flight for about 140€. There will be 20-24 people in this balloon. Many companies offer luxury tours, flying up to two hours, with fewer people in the balloon, or - just you. The price of an exclusive tour goes up to € 2000. The hotel also offers a concierge service, spa and culinary lessons. In April-November, the hotel arranges golf games – guests can play golf in the valley, where their activities do not harm the environment. This is the only place in the world where golf is permitted on a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. The hotel’s farm supplies its restaurant with fresh produce, local wine and organic honey.

KAYAKAPI PREMIUM CAVES

MUSEUM HOTEL

A cave-hotel complex - Kayakapı Premium Caves - is located in the Kayakapi historic district in Urgup.

The Museum Hotel offers unfor gettable views of Göreme not only from the rooms but also from the restaurant, terrace and pool. Hundreds of colorful hot air balloons fly past it every morning.

It is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. It houses hundreds of caves and historical monuments. The hotel has a beautiful veranda and a pool. Price: starting at 290 € Kayakapi Mahallesi, Kuscular Sokak 43, 50400 Urgup

Every room in the cave is adorned with antique items. Every historical cave is restored: centuries ago Persians, Romans, and early Christians lived here. 110 VOYAGER 10/2018

Standard room price: starting at 150 € Tekelli mah. No.1 Uçhisar 50240 Nevşehir

KONYA / CENTRAL ANATOLIA

KONYA

MEVLÂNA MUZESI

Konya is the capital of the medieval Sultanate of Rum and the cradle of the whirling dervishes. It founded in the Neolithic Age and is the crossroads of many civilizations. Konya is Greek for “icon”. According to the Hellenic myth, Perseus, the son of Zeus, defeated the city’s turbulent dragon here. The grateful population set up a monument to Perseus’ victory with his face on it, and the town was named “Konya” in his honor. Today, most of Konya’s twomillion inhabitants are deeply religious Muslims, though it is significant for Christians too: the apostles, Paul and Barnabas, preached here while traveling to Asia Minor.

The Mevlana mausoleum is Konya’s main attraction. The Persian-speaking mystic poet Jalal EdDin Rum, the founder of the order of dervishes, was born in what is now Afghanistan and spent most of his life in the capital of the Sultanate of Rum.

KARATAY MADRASA The Seljuk Madrasa was built in 1251 and is named after its builder, the Seljuk General Jalal Ed-Din Karatay. The building, which is considered a masterpiece of Seljuk art, has hosted a ceramics museum since 1955. The Madrasa’s interior is covered in impressive, beautiful blue and white enameled mosaic, while the exhibition hall houses a rich collection of medieval archaeological exhibits. Ticket price: 5 TRY

SELIMIYE CAMII Selimiye’s mosque is one of the most outstanding examples of classical Ottoman architecture. The mosque’s history is associated with Sultan Selim II. Its construction began in 1558. The domed mosque is decorated with two minarets; its interior is ornamented with precious marble and mosaic.

THE DISTANCE FROM KONIA TO ISTANBUL IS 712 KM; FROM ANKARA IT IS 263 KM. TURKISH AIRLINES AND PEGASUS AIRLINES REGULARLY OPERATE DIRECT FLIGHTS FROM ISTANBUL’S TWO AIRPORTS. THE FLIGHT LASTS APPROXIMATELY 1 HOUR.

ŞIFA LOKANTASI

This restaurant is located near Mevlana Mausoleum. Its menu consists of traditional dishes. The prices are affordable and the service is fast. Locals also frequently visit this place, which is often a sign of status. Mevlana Cad. 9/F

111 VOYAGER 10/2018

It is known that the Sultanate patronized the Sufi mystics, namely, the Sultan’s wife, Gürcü Hatun, daughter of the Georgian Queen Rusudan, who had a great friendship with Mevlana. After the death of Jalal Ed-Din Rum, she led the construction of a tomb/türbe on his grave to immortalize the memory of her beloved teacher. In addition, 66 Sufi dervishes are buried in the Mevlana mausoleum, including Sultan Walad, Jalal Ed-Din Rum’s son. The graves of the father and son are decorated with a dervish “sikke” cap, which indicates the high spirituality of their occupants. FOR MUSLIMS, THIS PLACE IS DISTINGUISHED BY ITS ABSOLUTE PURITY: IN ADDITION TO THE GRAVES, THERE ARE MANY RELICS IN THE MAUSOLEUM, INCLUDING THE BEARD OF THE HOLY PROPHET MOHAMED. THOUSANDS OF PEOPLE COME HERE TO PRAY.

It is mandatory for women to wear a headdress to enter the mausoleum. It is not permitted to enter with bare shoulders and short pants neither for men nor for women. Visitors must take off their shoes. Open: 9 am- 5:30 pm; Entrance is free; the cost of audio guide: 10 TRY

KONYA DERVISH HOTEL This two-storied building houses one of the most prominent hotels in the city of Konya. It is two centuries old and is a fine example of typical Ottoman architecture. The hotel is located in the city center, two minutes away from the Mevlana Musoleum. It is surrounded by an oriental garden with a small pool. Average price of a double room: 35 € Aziziye Mahallesi, Güngör Sk. No:7

PAMUKKALE

HIERAPOLIS

For centuries, hot calcium bicarbonate waters (30-45°C) have been flowing into the rock on the old volcanic mountain slope, from a height of 200 meters. This is how Pamukkale (the cotton fortress), a terrace bath formation covered with white stalactites, was formed. The medicinal properties of these waters have been known since antiquity. The royal Attalid dynasty of Pergamon founded the Hierapolis resort in the second century BC. The remains of baths, temples, and Hellenistic structures still stand in Pamukkale.

The terraces are inky pink at dusk and dawn. Strolling on them is prohibited, and only special sections are allocated for visitors. The famous Cleopatra thermal complex is located at the foothills of the plateau.

The ancient amphitheater (2nd century BC) seated 15,000 viewers (it has been revived and is used for festivals). It contains city columns, the Cleopatra thermal complex, Apollo and Pluto temples (3rd century AD), and the largest necropolis in Asia Minor. St. Philippe’s Martyrium (5th century AD), the monumental gate of the Domitian Arch (1st century AD), terraces and a section of the old city are open 24 hours every day.

EVERY DAY EXCEPT MONDAY, YOU CAN VISIT THE SECONDCENTURY MUSEUM LOCATED IN THE THERMAL COMPLEX (8 AM – 8 PM, 2 TRY).

ENTRANCE FEE FOR PAMUKKALE AND HIERAPOLIS: 25 TRY. Open: November-March, 6am – 6:30 pm; April-October, 6 am – 12 am ENTRANCE FEE FOR ANCIENT POOL: 32 TRY Open: November-March, 8 am – 5:30 pm; April-October, 8 am – 7:30 pm

LAODICEA The remnants of Laodicea, an old town that controlled the trade routes, are located 13 km away from the Pamukkale. On the site of Diapolis, a third century BC town, Antioch II erected a fortress that soon became a wealthy city and then a point from which Christianity spread to Asia. A special system brought the thermal waters to the homes of local residents. Earthquakes and Seljuk invasions in the fifth century AD forced the population to flee. The exiles founded Denizli, which is a city today; Laodicea remains a historic site. Here you will find a half-destroyed nymphaeum and a gymnasium stadium (1st century AD), a thermal complex, the foundations of an Ionic temple and two amphitheaters.

112 VOYAGER 10/2018

PAMUKKALE / AEGEAN REGION

Pamukkale is on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Nature’s wonder, a unique complex of mineral waters, is located 20 km from Denizli, in the upper part of the Menderes valley. Treatment with Pamukkale waters is recommended for rheumatism, rickets, eczema, psoriasis, digestive organ and cardiovascular diseases, anemia, stress and fatigue, among others. Treatments include baths and mineral water. The medical centers also offer massage, mud baths, electrotherapy and waxing, among others.

VISITORS WHO ARE TRAVELLING FOR MEDICAL TREATMENT FREQUENTLY LODGE IN KARAHAYIT, WHILE THOSE WHO ARE INTERESTED IN SIGHTSEEING PREFER TO STAY IN PAMUKKALE.

Karahayit, the red spring, is located on the upper slope. It has a different mineral composition, as its thermal water contains iron (40-60°C).

THE PERIOD FROM MAY TO OCTOBER IS CONSIDERED THE BEST FOR TREATMENTS (EXCEPT FOR JULY AND AUGUST, AS IT IS VERY HOT IN THE SUMMER).

It runs at 40 liters per second. A second sulfur water spring treats skin diseases, and a third that fills the terrace baths has a rejuvenating effect. MOST LUXURY HOTELS IN PAMUKKALE HAVE THEIR OWN THERMAL POOLS, AND IN SOME HOTELS THE THERMAL WATER IS SUPPLIED DIRECTLY TO THE BATHROOMS. STAY IN THE KARAHAYIT DISTRICT IF YOU WISH TO LODGE IN A THERMAL HOTEL.

RECOMMENDATION

Get ready for a crowd - most tourists plan at least a one-day trip to Pamukkale and arrive in late morning or early afternoon. As the day progresses, the number of people increases; this is not surprising: 2 million people visit Pamukkale annually, which amounts to 5,500 tourists a day! Start your visit at the lower entrance. It is less crowded here, since group tours usually begin at the top entrance. Walk carefully; to avoid harming the Pamukkale environment, visitors are required to walk barefoot. You can put your shoes in a plastic bag and carry them with you at the lower entrance or you can store them on wooden shelves at the top entrance. Be careful with sharp limestone. Do not hurry while climbing up the cliff and walk carefully. The travertine (limestone) is slippery in some places, because of the water flow. PUT ONLY LIGHT ITEMS IN YOUR BAG. THERE IS NO STORAGE AT THE LOWER ENTRANCE, SO PLEASE NOTE THAT YOU WILL HAVE TO CARRY YOUR BAG WITH YOU.

PAM THERMAL HOTEL CLINIC & SPA The residents of this hotel are not only able to use the travertine and Cleopatra antique pool waters, but also a red thermal water, which formed the famous Karahayit red travertines. These two types of water run in the hotel and are used for medicinal purposes. The only medical center in Pamukkale-Karahayit province, the Nobel Physiotherapy and Rehabilitation Center, is located in the yard of Pam Thermal Hotel. Pam Thermal Hotel’s mineral-rich thermal water, without chemical additives, flows in the building and several-story outside pool. This water is used to treat chronic rheumatism and joint diseases such as osteoarthritis, arthritis and osteoporosis. Double room price: 70 € Karahayit / Pamukkale

Wear a swimsuit under your clothes; when you see a good place for swimming, just take your clothes off and dive. Take a pair of sunglasses – the limestone is so bright and white that it will hurt your eyes. Also, apply sunscreen and drink lots of water. The temperature is high here, especially in the summer and if you are not careful, you will get dehydrated. ONE OF THE MOST COMMON SOUVENIRS IS A BOTTLE OF MINERAL WATER (2-3 TRY). YOU CAN ALSO FILL THE BOTTLE UP YOURSELF FOR FREE. IT IS NOT PERMITTED TO BREAK OFF THE MINERALS IN PROTECTED AREAS. IT IS FORBIDDEN TO TAKE STONES OUT OF TURKEY, EVEN BEACH PEBBLES.

Only walking is allowed in the natural reserve of Hierapolis. All the transportation goes up to the remains of the old city. You can also reach the village via a dolmus (a pre-determined route minibus for 2-5 TRY) and taxi, the fee has to be discussed with the driver in advance. Pay in cash.

113 VOYAGER 10/2018

THE CARDAK AIRPORT IS LOCATED 70 KM FROM THE PAMUKKALE. FIRST YOU HAVE TO GO TO DENIZLI, AND THEN PAMUKKALE VILLAGE, WHICH IS LOCATED AT THE FOOT OF THE TERRACES. TAXIS FROM THE AIRPORT COST 90 TRY.

ANTALYA OLD TOWN OR KALEIÇI IS A BEAUTIFUL OLD QUARTER IN THE CENTER OF MODERN ANTALYA. KALEIÇI WAS FOUNDED DURING THE ROMAN EMPIRE. IT WAS BUILT BY AN ANCIENT PORT AND WAS ONCE PROTECTED BY A HUGE STONE WALL; TODAY ONLY TWO WALLS AND ONE GATE REMAIN.

ANTALYA

The Kaleiçi protected the port from the west and welcomed merchant ships from the south. With its narrow streets and historic wooden houses, bars, restaurants and Ottoman-style boutique hotels, Kaleiçi is the best place for strolling or staying when you visit Antalya.

HADRIAN’S GATE A triumphal gate leading into Antalya’s old town, known as Hadrian’s Gate, was built in 130 to honor the visit of Emperor Hadrian. In this period, Antalya was a wealthy city and this impressive example of Roman architecture is the only remaining example of its grandiose gates. An arch made of two marble columns is placed on both sides of the entrance to the old town. Right next to it, massive stone towers were constructed in various periods. The most recent dates back to the 1200s during the Seljuk period. The stone road beneath the arch is scratched by the tracks of thousands of carts and wagons that passed through it over the centuries.

Antalya’s bay is a sickle-shaped coastline of the old town with a large commercial wharf, a port and a historic harbor.

APOLLO TEMPLE You can visit ruins of many historical Greek and Roman buildings near Antalya. One of the most interesting buildings is the Apollo Temple, which is located 19 km south of the city. It was built near the ancient port, which is now 24 km away from the sea shore. The Apollo Temple has six Corinthian columns at the front and rear, and eleven on each side. Each one is nine meters tall. The structure was built in the second century to honor Apollo, the god of light and truth.

PERGE

When taking a boat from Kaleiçi bay, you can survey the shore and small islands that lay at a small distance from it.

The remains of Perge, an ancient city, and one of the most important Roman ruins in the region are just 17 km north-east of Antalya and a twenty-minute drive away.

Here you can watch how the fishermen return with their catch, and have a dinner in one of the nearby sea food restaurants. The bay is distinguished by its impressive views.

The city, which dates back to the Bronze Age, existed as far back as 1500 BC. Perge is one of the most beautiful cities of the ancient world 114 VOYAGER 10/2018

The Antalya Museum, founded in 1922, was first located in Alâeddin Mosque. It was then moved to the Yivli Minare Mosque, and finally to its current building in 1972. The museum covers 30 000 sq.m., consists of 13 exhibition galleries, and houses a very diverse collection: a children’s section, prehistoric galleries, clay objects, archaeological discoveries from the region, sculptures of deities, mosaics, idols, statues of the Perga theater, sarcophagus, coins and jewelry. About 12,000 archeological artefacts, each belonging to this region, arranged chronologically will let you travel through the history of Anatolia. Open: every day, 8:30 am – 5:30 pm; Admission price: 20 TRY Bahçelievler Mahallesi Konyaaltı Cd. No:88

and one of the most important locations for Christians in the Byzantine era. According to legend, St. Paul preached there in AD 46. In 1946, a Greek-Roman theater with a marble relief, a stadium that accommodated 12 000 people, a Hellenistic-Roman city gate, a colonnaded street, public baths and a gymnasium were excavated in Perge.

ANTALYA / ANTALYA PROVINCE, MEDITERRANEAN SEA COAST

SAINT NICHOLAS CHURCH, DEMRE In the year AD 343, Saint Nicholas, also known as Santa Claus, was buried in a church in Antalya where he served as a bishop. Afterwards, a new church was built on the foundation of the old one in honor of Saint Nicholas, which was subsequently destroyed during the Arab invasion. It was completely rebuilt during the reign of Constantine IX. There is a theory that the remains of Saint Nicholas were stolen in

DEMRE MYRA Demre, formerly known as Kale, and in antique times as Myra, is a small agricultural city on the Mediterranean coast. It is located 14 km from Antalya and is a perfect place to rest.

The city is not only known for its warm, pleasant weather and beaches but many Christians also come here to visit the church and grave of St. Nicholas. In addition, the city of Demre is known for such historic sights as tombs carved into rocks and a Roman theater. There are submerged historical ruins on the island of Kekova nearby. You will find many interesting places while taking a boat trip along the shore of this city. 1087 by Italian merchants, though a recent theory by Turkish archaeologists states that the stolen remains belonged to a local priest. According to this theory, the remains of Saint Nicholas may still be under the church’s Byzantine mosaics and stone floors. Open for visitors: From April until the end of October 9 am - 7. pm; From November to March – 8:30 am - 5 pm Admission fee: 10 TRY

TERMESSOS

KEKOVA Kekova Island is located in the middle of a famous lake in the city of Demre. The Kekova region includes the island of Kekova, two villages - Kaleköy and Üçağiz - as well as ruins of several ancient Lycian villages. After an earthquake in AD 2, much of the region was submerged into the water - some buildings are semi-visible while others are altogether under the water.

Termessos is an ancient city in the Taurus Mountains. Visiting it requires a lot of effort. This may be the reason why Alexander the Great changed his mind about conquering it in 333. Today, the relatively low-lying areas around the ancient city are in Gulluk Dagi National Park, located 38 kilometers from Antalya. You will definitely need heavy-duty shoes to climb over the small rocks in order to see more of the ruins. There is an impressive theater there too and views of the surrounding mountains. The park also includes an agora, the Odeon-Bouleuterion, a Hereon tomb, a five-storey water reservoir and a Corinthian temple.

It is a popular venue for boat tours, and it is especially impressive to survey this area in a glass-floored boat. You can view the sunken buildings and dive near the protected areas. 115 VOYAGER 10/2018

OLYMPOS The ruins of the ancient city of Olympos are located 90 kilometers south-west of Antalya in a beautiful field. The name of this city, founded during the Hellenistic period, which later became part of the Roman Empire, is supposedly derived from the domain of the mythical gods nearby on Mount Olympus. The village of Olympos is near the city, which is distinguished by its rich flora. Fruit and vines bloom here and the place is located very close to the shore. Travelers who come to see the ruins of Olympos also visit the nearby Yanartas. This place located in the mountains has been wrapped in flames for millennia due to methane escaping from the ground.

OLYMPOS LODGE

MAXX ROYAL KEMER

Every detail of this «grand boutique» hotel is elegant. There beautiful views of the sea from all of the distinctively designed rooms. The hotel’s kitchen is ran by Filipino, French, Austrian, Italian and Japanese chefs. Maxx Royal has three white sandy beaches - Tangerine Beach, with its continuous musical background; the quiet Long Beach with small houses; and the Middle Bay for families with children. Four swimming pools, a well-equipped gym and a luxury spa center are also at the hotel guests’ disposal. Kiriş Mah. Kiriş Cad. No: 88 Kemer-Antalya

LARA BALIKEVI

Lara Balikevi has deserved its reputation as one of the best seafood restaurants in Antalya right from its opening in 2002. After five years, it opened a second branch. These restaurants are located on the shore and both offer equally beautiful sea views. Both have outdoor terraces and gardens. The fresh daily catch is displayed on a large counter and is used to prepare fresh, daily dishes. They will offer you meat here as well but the fish dishes are the restaurant’s strong suit and they will serve you them seasoned masterfully..

If you love spending time on a beach, then the hotel Olympos Lodge will be perfect for you. It is near Çıralı, a secluded coastline of Antalya. The hotel’s decor is elegant and its garden, private beach and thirteen bungalows offer distinct relaxation. You can dive into the sea, take a nap in a hammock, and have dinner in the shade of the eucalyptus trees. Çıralı PK 38 Antalya, Kemer-Antalya

TEKELI KONAKLARI

STELLA’S MANZARA

The enormous open terrace overlooking the Mediterranean Sea is decorated with beautiful plants and sun umbrellas. The restaurant offers a diverse menu with a good balance of fish, poultry and meat dishes, preceded by cold and hot appetizers from Turkish and international cuisine. Freshly caught fish are displayed on an ice cart. Stella’s Manzara is famous for its peppered steak, which is made with cognac, cream and black peppercorn sauce. Şirinyalı Mh., Muratpaşa, Antalya

This boutique hotel is located in the reconstructed residence of the Ottoman Pasha in the old bay of Antalya. Eight rooms with different designs are filled with calmness along the adjacent quiet street and the hotel’s interior yard. The main structure of the building is made of a cedar wood material so there is always a sweet smell there. The classical Turkish cuisine offered in the hotel restaurant has a very appetizing aroma. Dizdar Hasan Sokak Kaleiçi-Antalya PATIO BISTRO & RESTAURANT

Altınkum Mh., Antalya Tevfik Işık Cd, Muratpaşa, Antalya SHIP INN

Ship Inn, located at Ataturk Park, is a real oasis to retreat from the tourist noise of Antalya. There are three lakes around the restaurant and you will be able to enjoy a delicious dinner in nature. The outdoor terrace has a wooden floor, which has lots of plants around it. The menu is influenced by international cuisine, but mostly offers Turkish food: appetizing classical yörük, roasted calf slices and cızbız (grilled meat balls). Meltem Mh., Dumlupınar Blv 2, Antalya 116 VOYAGER 10/2018

Patio, located at the Puding Marina Hotel, is located in the middle of Antalya old town. The menu promises a journey to numerous Mediterranean countries. Foie gras from France, Gazpacho soup with shrimps from Spain, Turkish roast lamb with onions, with green peppers and cherry tomatoes - all of these dishes have a place in the Patio Bistro & Restaurant’s La Cart Menu. Mermerli S.15, Kaleiçi, Antalya

FETHIYE / THE MUĞLA PROVINCE, AEGEAN SEA COAST

Fethiye. The Lycian Way stretches between Fethiye and Antalya. It was part of ancient Lycia. This 500-kilometer route passes along the coastline. There are beautiful villages along the way, with the remains of ancient civilizations. The ancient city of Kadyanda is 2,500 years old and is located 24 miles away from Fethiye. A Hellenic theater, Roman bath, Agora, temple and cave tombs are located here. The ruins of the Afkule monastery are close to Fethiye. The ancient Greek ghost village of Kayakoy is nearby. The inhabitants left it in 1923. Staying in Fethiye is a good decision if you want to see the magnificent ruins of the Lycian shore.

FETHIYE

THE CITY IS VERY HOT IN THE SUMMER - THE TEMPERATURE REACHES 40 ° C IN JULY AND AUGUST AND 14-20 ° C IN WINTER. SPRING AND FALL ARE THE BEST SEASONS FOR A VACATION AS THE WEATHER IS WONDERFUL (20-28 ° C).

Fethiye is one of the most distinguished resorts on the Turkish coast. It is known for its nightlife, taverns, views of pine-covered mountains and sandy, sunny lagoons. Thousands of white boats sail here and the weather is always sunny.

 The HILLSIDE BEACH CLUB consists of three private beaches and is an ideal coast area. Here you will find everything you need for a comfortable stay.  The OYSTER RESIDENCES is one of the best hotels in Fethiye. The complex is located directly on a private beach and has a beautiful lagoon pool and green garden.  The HOTEL UNIQUE is located on the edge of the Unique Rock and is a perfect place with an outdoor pool and restaurant. Besides, the beach is just a few minutes away.

The most beautiful harbors of Turkey’s Mediterranean Sea are located in Fethiye. Gorgeous islands are situated by the gulf. You will be able to see Çal and Ölüdeniz – the most beautiful beaches of Turkey, while visiting FLYING FROM THE

Asian A’la Carte Restaurant Asian cuisine.

MOUNTAIN OF BABADAĞ TO ÖLÜDENIZ’S FAMOUS BLUE LAGOON IS SOMETHING THAT YOU MUST TRY. THE AIR GAMES FESTIVAL IS HELD FOR THOSE WHO LOVE TO FLY

FETHIYE IS THE ONLY CITY IN THE WORLD WHERE YOU CAN FIND SARCOPHAGI – LYCIAN RELICS – IN THE STREETS.

TWICE A YEAR, IN MAY AND OCTOBER. IF YOU DO NOT LIKE THE IDEA OF FLYING, THEN YOU CAN USE THE CABLE CAR LIFT WHICH WILL OPEN IN 2018 TO ENJOY THE VIEW.

117 VOYAGER 10/2018

TUI Sensatori Resort Fethiye by Barut Hotels - This destination offers you a wide choice of the best restaurants. Pearl A’la Carte Restaurant offers international cuisine with beautiful views.

Basilico A’la Carte Restaurant Traditional Italian cuisine. Sunset Restaurant Best menu for meat lovers, barbeque. Amber Restaurant Traditional Turkish cuisine, kebab, meze, pastries.

Dutdibi Mevkii, Manolya Sok. Kargı Köyü 4/1

THE 12 ISLAND TOUR OF THE GULF OF FETHIYE The gulf of Fethiye is one of the most fascinating places with a 12-island archipelago in turquoise waters. The best way to visit them is to go on tour with a gulet. The trip will include stops on the following islands: Yassıcalar (flat island); Tersane Adası (ship-building island) with the remains of artefacts; Akvaryum Koyu (aquarium bay) for diving; and Kızılada (red island) for its beautiful beach and mud bath.

BLUE CRUISE THE BEST CHOICE FOR A VACATION IN TURKEY.

If you do not travel on a strictly defined route and have hired a personal gulet, you can stop in Zeytin, in front of Tersane Adası, located at Bedri Rahmi’s Gulf, where you can enjoy the best meze.

Tours along the impressive Lycian coastline, called the Blue Cruise, are planned by several companies in Fethiye, from April to October. This is a cruise on the Turkish Aegean and Mediterranean shores, where you can see the old civilizations (on ground or underwater) and beautiful nature. Turkish gulets are traditionally used; they are beautiful and comfortable. Tours last for 3, 5, 7 days or up to two weeks. The starting point may be Bodrum, Marmaris, Gokova, Fethiye, Kekova, Olympos, Kemer, Demre, Gocek Isles, Kas and Antalya. ÖLÜDENIZ BEACH IS LOCATED 14 KM SOUTH OF FETHIYE, NEAR BABADAĞ. ITS LAGOON IS WELL KNOWN FOR ITS BLUE AND TURQUOISE COLORS AND IT IS A NATIONAL RESERVE. CALIS AND HISARONU, THE BEAUTIFUL BEACHES OF FETHIYE, OFFER BUSTLING NIGHTLIFE. THE PATARA BEACH IS ONE OF THE MOST CHARMING; IT IS SOMETIMES REFERRED TO AS THE BEST BEACH IN THE WORLD, AND KABAK IS A QUIET PLACE WITH BRILLIANT WHITE SAND. THE GEMILER BEACH IS SURROUNDED BY BYZANTINE PERIOD STRUCTURES.

A gulet is a descendant of the ancient wooden ships that sailed in the Aegean and Mediterranean seas that have long been used for trade or fishing. They are mainly made of pine and have a spacious deck where dinners are held and chairs are placed for tanning. The interior space is comfortably arranged. Gulets of different sizes can accommodate between 4 and 20 people. The crew, captain, chef and one or two sailors are experienced professionals.

118 VOYAGER 10/2018

DALIYAN RIVER TOUR You can plan a trip along the river Daliyan. This route stretches between the Lake Köyceğiz and the İztuzu Beach and passes through the small town of Daliyan. You will see beautiful landscapes, villages and mountain peaks during your voyage. The İztuzu, or the turtle beach, can be reached on ground. It is ideal for swimming and tanning. In addition, it is inhabited by lots of turtles. A turtle research and preservation center is located here. During your river journey, you will visit the old town of Kaunos and see royal Lycian tombs. There’s also a theater and an acropolis. During your stay at Daliyan, stop by Saki restaurant. Caretta is an ideal place for lunch where you can get seafood and meze.

DATÇA / THE MUĞLA PROVINCE, AEGEAN SEA COAST

DATÇA IS LOCATED BETWEEN BODRUM AND MARMARIS, 78 KILOMETERS FROM MARMARIS. THE D400 IS THE ONLY LAND ROUTE.

DATÇA

FERRIES LEAVE FROM THE BODRUM STOP AT THE PORT ON THE NORTHERN SHORE OF THE PENINSULA. IT TAKES 10-15 MINUTES TO REACH DATÇA, WHICH LIES ON THE SOUTHERN SHORE OF THE PENINSULA.

D-HOTEL

The Datça peninsula stretches for 80km. It is located in the Muğla Province, at the crossing of the Aegean and the Mediterranean seas. It is distinguished by its virgin greenery. The ancient Greeks believed that Zeus himself created Datça. This is the only explanation for the beautiful rocky contours and turquoise waters. If we trust Strabo, “God has put his beloved creatures in Datça, so that they may live longer.”

ESKI DATÇA, THE MAIN VILLAGE OF THE PENINSULA, WAS CREATED FOR WEALTHY ISTANBUL AND ANKARA HOLIDAY TOURISTS. MANY OF THEM HAVE EVEN BOUGHT A HOUSE HERE. DATÇA FEATURES BEAUTIFUL STONE HOUSES, PATHS, GARDENS, SMALL CAFES AND SHOPS.

D-Hotel exemplifies exclusivity. It has excellent views, is surrounded by several small islands, pine trees and has five private beaches. There are six bars with live music and DJs nights. The Coliseum Beach Bar is famous for its jazz band and special cocktails. You can grab a delicious bite in the legendary restaurant Zuma. Ruia will offer you Turkish cuisine.

KNIDOS

This ancient port, whose ruins are still preserved, was an important maritime point in IV BC. ONLY A FEW ARCHES OF THE BASILICA, FLOOR MOSAICS AND ANCIENT COASTAL

www.dhotel.com.tr

THEATER HAVE BEEN PRESERVED.

The local landscape bears signs of Karians living here in 5400 BC, as well as Lydian, Persian, and Byzantine and Ottoman cultures: temple ruins, ancient reservoirs, tomb stones and remnants of olive processing equipment. Here you’ll find beautiful hills, olive alleys, green lagoons, deserted beaches and dormant villages.

Standard room price: starting at 300 €

Astronomers, doctors, and architects gathered in Knidos. A sculpture of naked Aphrodite stood here a thousand years ago but is now lost. Knidos was ruined by earthquakes, invasions, and looting. THE CITY IS FAMOUS FOR ITS ALMOND TREES AND LOCAL DESSERTS MADE FROM ALMOND AND FIGS, WHICH ARE ESPECIALLY DELICIOUS.

MARPHE VILLAS This villa network is connected to the hotel of the same name, which has a beautiful pool, a garden decorated with hammocks and an open-air bar. Villas for two: starting at 70 € Suits for 5-6-guests: starting at 125€ -200 € www.marphevillas.com 119 VOYAGER 10/2018

 FEVZI’S PLACE

The fish tavern in the port will

offer you the best meze before the main fish course.  CULINARIUM

A Turkish-German couple pre-

pares mostly European cuisine made from local ingredients – perfect steaks, saffron ravioli, stuffed squash and homemade ice-cream.

BODRUM

BODRUM KALESI

THE ANCIENT POLIS HALICARNASSUS, MODERN BODRUM, IS HISTORICALLY FAMOUS FOR TWO THINGS: HERODOTUS, KNOWN AS THE FATHER OF HISTORY, WAS BORN HERE IN V BC; AND ONE OF THE SEVEN WONDERS OF THE WORLD - THE HALICARNASSUS MAUSOLEUM, WHICH WAS ERECTED HERE. TODAY, BODRUM IS ONE OF TURKEY’S MOST IMPORTANT SEASIDE RESORTS. THE SEASON STARTS HERE IN LATE MARCH AND LASTS TILL NOVEMBER. THE CITY IS OFTEN REFERRED TO AS ASIA MINOR’S SAINT-TROPEZ DUE TO ITS BEAUTIFUL SANDY BEACHES AND GULFS, ASTONISHING NATURE AND HISTORIC MONUMENTS. THE TRANSPARENT SEA, BLUE SKY, HIGHQUALITY HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS TURNED BODRUM INTO ONE OF THE BEST RESORTS IN TURKEY.

ANTIK TIYATROSU

The Bodrum Amphitheater is the oldest remaining antique structure of the city. The theater was originally designed for 13,000 spectators. Performances are often held here today. The amphitheater can seat up to 5,000 viewers. Open: every day, 8:30 am-4.30pm Price: 8 TRY Kıbrıs Şehitler Caddesi

The name of the city is associated with this fortress and St. Peter. It was originally referred to as Petronium, and later the Turkish version, Bodrum. The fortress was built by Rhodos knights in the first half of the XV century. Today, a museum is open in the fortress, where artifacts of marine archeology and the Bronze Age are exhibited. The building overlooks the sea and if you visit it in the evening, you can enjoy the sunset from the tower. Open: Tuesday-Sunday, 9 am – 12 pm; 1 pm- 7 pm; Price: 10 TRY

MINDOS KAPISI

The gateway to the ancient city that leads towards the port of Mindos (today’s Gümüslük) was one of the two entrances of the 7-kilometer Halicarnassus wall. It was built in IV BC. In 334, Alexander the Great marched through this gate and conquered the polis, which was previously considered unreachable. Despite the fact that the fortress is in ruins, the magnitude of the gate shows a glimpse of the glory and power of Halicarnassus in the past. Visiting the archaeological monument is free.

HALIKARNAS MOZOLESI

The legendary Halicarnassus mausoleum was built in IV BC as a tomb for Mausolus, the Caria Satrap. He began construction of the tomb while he was alive. The structure was designed by the Greek architect Pythius of Priene who built the temple of Athenes in Priene. According to legend, the rich structure with its marble columns resembled classical Greek temples and was adorned with gold sculptures. The temple was robbed multiple times. Today, as a result of invasions and earth-

Cafer Paşa Caddesi

quakes, only the foundations, a number of columns and several statues remain. A significant part of the artefacts are kept in the British National Museum. Open: April-October and March-November, 8am – 7 pm; Price: 10 TRY Turgutreis Caddesi 120 VOYAGER 10/2018

BODRUM / THE MUĞLA PROVINCE, AEGEAN SEA COAST

YOU WILL SEE ALL TYPES OF BEACHES IN BODRUM: FROM SIMPLE, CLEAN BEACHES TO LUXURIOUS BEACHES SUCH AS THE MANDARIN ORIENTAL, OR SWISSOTEL RESORT. YAHSI WITH ITS GOLDEN SAND IS AMONG THE BEST BEACHES OF THIS SIDE. IF YOU DECIDE TO GO FURTHER, YOU CAN VISIT MAZI, WHICH IS MORE OFTEN FREQUENTED BY LOCALS. THERE ARE MANY FANTASTIC RESTAURANTS IN BODRUM, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY, EVERYTHING IS TASTY, SINCE ONLY LOCAL AND FRESH PRODUCE IS USED TO PREPARE DISHES.

LIMON

One of the most picturesque restaurants in the city features a great yard, sea view and vintage interior. As you are waiting for your order, we recommend enjoying an aperitif by the bar counter, located in the garden. “Limon” is the ideal place for a romantic dinner. The restaurant offers a great choice of fish and meat dishes. Yalı Mevkii No:1 Gümüşlük

MED-INN

MEMEDOF

This boutique hotel, located 35 km from the center of Bodrum, is one of the most refined structures in Turkey, due to its service, interior and surroundings. The hotel overlooks the sea, has a private beach, a garden and is an ideal place for quiet and romantic relaxation. You can enjoy European dishes at the hotel’s restaurant. Room price: starting at 200 €

Bodrum’s most popular fish restaurant overlooks the sea. Reservations are required, especially if you want to dine on the terrace.

Ataturk Mhl.Sıralık Cad.446 Sk.No:6 Gulluk

Gerişaltı mevkii Çökertme cad. no 42

The restaurant’s signatures dishes are local antipasti - meze, şakşuka (fried eggplant with yoghurt and garlic sauce), fava (peas), midye dolma (stuffed molusks), kalamar tava (seared calamari) and grilled fish, especially red mullet.

Türkbükü, right by the sea. A large park is built around the hotel.

MAÇAKIZI

Bodrum offers one of the most glamorous and luxurious boutique hotels located at a distance from the city, in

The terrace of the restaurant hangs over the sea and you can enjoy local and international dishes, such as fish with walnut sauce, skordalia and purslane, and fried lamb with feta cheese pesto and potato or spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, botarga and dried pepper. Room price for the season: starting at 500 €. Bağarası, Narçiçeği Sokak 121 VOYAGER 10/2018

ORFOZ

This is a real paradise for seafood lovers. The interior of the restaurant is simple, decorated with wooden tables and chairs, and its large terrace overlooks the sea. We recommend that fish lovers enjoy local sardines, smoked eel, escargot in wine sauce, fresh mollusks with lemon and baked mollusks. It is recommended to make a prior reservation. Kumbahçe Mah. Zeki Müren Cad. No:13/1

TEMPLE OF ARTEMIS

EFES

Several columns are left from one of the Seven Wonders of the World, the temple of hunting goddess Artemis. It was built in 550 BC and in 356 was destroyed in a ferocious fire.

HELLENIC-ROMAN EPHESUS (EFES), A MAGNIFICENT CITY OF ANTIQUITY, ATTRACTS THOUSANDS OF TRAVELERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD ANNUALLY. EPHESUS WAS THE CAPITAL OF THE ASIAN PROVINCE OF THE ROMAN EMPIRE UNTIL THE FOURTH CENTURY AND, AT THE SAME TIME, WAS THE REGION’S LARGEST PORT AND CENTER OF COMMERCE.

THE TERRACED HOUSES OF EPHESUS were luxurious residencies

for local nobles. The marble columns are adorned with mosaics, and the walls are decorated with frescoes.

However, as a result of frequent invasions, the town’s port lost its significance and the local population eventually left in the 8th century.

EPHESUS MUSEUM

Artifacts, coins, ancient mosaics and wall painting patterns found in archaeological excavations are amongst the magnificent exhibits in the Ephesus Archaeological Museum.

Interest in the place sparked up again in the 19th century. As the construction of the Istanbul-Baghdad railroad commenced, archeologists were sent there to find the legendary temple of Artemis. It is supposed that only 18% of the ancient city is visible above ground today. Artefacts from the archaeological excavations of the city are preserved in the Museum of Ephesus in Selçuk. A significant part is on display in the Vienna and British National Museums.

CELSUS LIBRARY

There were 12,000 scrolls in this library built by local Greek nobleman and Roman Consul Tiberius Julius Celsus. The column of the building still exists and is an architectural masterpiece. ODEON

The semi-circular Ephesus amphitheater seated 24,000 spectators. According to legend, the Apostle Paul preached the message of Christ here, followed by his letters to the Ephesians. GROTTO OF THE SEVEN SLEEPERS TEMPLE OF HADRIAN

Emperor Hadrian visited the city in 128 BC, and a decade later, the grateful people built a temple in his honor. According to legend, it was adorned by Roman emperors’ statues and gold.

Seven Christian youths sought shelter from persecution in the grotto in the 3rd century. It was sealed on the orders of Emperor Decius. However, after centuries, when the cave was opened, Ephesus witnessed a miracle: the youths were not dead but merely sleeping. 122 VOYAGER 10/2018

The collection contains the statue of the Priapus, marble busts of Eros and Socrates, an Artemis sculpture and part of the original Hadrian’s temple arch, among other things. Open: April-October, 8am – 7pm; November-March, 8am-5pm. Ticket price: Ephesus archeological site and museum - 40 TRY; Terrace houses - 20 TRY THE EPHESUS ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE IS LOCATED IN PRESENT-DAY SELÇUK, 30KM FROM KUŞADASI AND 50KM FROM IZMIR. DAILY TOURS ARE HELD FROM THESE CITIES FOR €50 ON AVERAGE. THE COST OF A LOCAL GUIDE SERVICE STARTS FROM €24.

EPHESUS / IZMIR PROVINCE

SELÇUK

The city of Selçuk is 2km from the Ephesus archeological site. Its original name is Agios Theologos (Άγιος Θεολόγος) and is associated with John the Evangelist. The city was called Ayasoluk in the Ottoman era and has been called Selçuk since 1914. Due to the abundance of archaeological sites, Selçuk is one of the most popular tourist destinations in Turkey.

PERGAMON

THE TEMPLE OF JOHN THE EVANGELIST was built by Emperor Justinian

in the 6th century. The foundation of the temple and the marble columns are preserved. According to legend, the apostle lived in this place in his last years and was buried here too. Open: April-October, 8am – 7pm; November-March, 8am-5pm. Price: 10 TRY

The home of parchment, the ancient city of Pergamon was founded in the 5th century BC. The library of the largest educational center of the region held more than 200,000 manuscripts, second only to the library of Alexandria. The city, which is mentioned in the gospel, existed until the 15th century. The present-day site features remains of the acropolis; the temples of Trajan, Dionysus, and Athena; an amphitheater cut into steep rock with seating for up to 10,000 spectators; a library; royal palaces; and a number of religious and residential buildings. Its famous altar is in the Perlamonmuseum in Berlin and is a masterpiece of the Hellenistic epoch. THE MONUMENT HAS BEEN ON THE UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE LIST SINCE 2014.

THE HOUSE OF THE VIRGIN MARY is 9km from Ephesus. Accord-

ing to legend, the holy virgin spent her last days in this house. Open: January-February, 8am – 5pm; March-October, 8am- 6pm; November-December, - 5pm. Price: 25 TRY

The Pergamon acropolis belongs to the city of Bergama, some 100km from Izmir. Open: October-March, 8am – 4:30pm; April-September, 8am – 6:30pm Price: 25 TRY

SIRINCE This Turkish-Greek village is located on a hill 30km from Selçuk, and its name means “beautiful” in Turkish. The residential house architecture is in the Greek style. The narrow streets are a great place for walking and its small cafes for tasting local cuisine and desserts. 123 VOYAGER 10/2018

APHRODISIAS This Hellenic city was named after Aphrodite, the goddess of love. The ruins of the Aphrodite cathedral, Agora, amphitheater, Roman baths and various buildings of the 3rd century BC are preserved on the archeological site. The buildings are decorated with white and blue marble. Aphrodisias has been on the UNESCO World Heritage List since 2017. It is located 230km from Izmir and 133km from Ephesus (Selçuk). Open: every day, summer: 8am-7pm, in winter: 8am-5pm Price: 10 TRY

IZMIR Izmir, called Smyrna in ancient times, is Turkey's third-largest city and the country's most modern, European area. Due to the local universities, this youthful city is full of life. High-class shops and street markets, the historic barracks on the hill and hotels on the Aegean Sea are found side by side. IZMIR IS SO LIBERAL THAT LOCAL CONSERVATIVES EYE IT WITH SUSPICION. IT IS THE ONLY PLACE WHERE BARS AND RESTAURANTS CONTINUE TO FUNCTION AS USUAL DURING RAMADAN.

In ancient times, Smyrna was the most important port city on the Aegean Sea. The Silk Road passed through here. Smyrna was inhabited by Greeks, Turks and Jews, and it was always a multicultural, open settlement. With its unique atmosphere and proximity to famous historical monuments, a large stream of tourists visit every year.

IZMIR SAAT KULESI

ASANSÖR

The Izmir clock tower is in the Konak district of the city center. Designed by French architect Raymond Charles Père, it was a gift from German Emperor Wilhelm II to Abdülhamid II in 1901. It is decorated in the Ottoman and Mauritanian architecture styles.

Asansör means elevator. This massive old metal elevator takes visitors from the Karataş neighborhood to the top of the hill. Opened in 1907, it is a favorite among tourists. A beautiful view of the Aegean Sea opens up from the hill at sunset. Asansör, the most popular restaurant in the city, is located here. The elevator ride is free.

AGORA

The ancient Smyrna Agora is located in the heart of the contemporary town in an open-air museum. In Greek, Agora means a square, a gathering place of people. Fairs, congregations and discussions of important issues took place here in ancient times. The original buildings were destroyed in 178 BC during an earthquake, but Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius ordered the square to be rebuilt. The ruins of the Smyrna Agora remain to this day. Price: 10 TRY; Open: April-September - 8am- 6pm; October-March - 8am- 4pm.

Turgut Reis Mahallesi, Şht. Nihatbey Cd. 76/A, Konak

Agora Caddesi, Izmir KORDON

Izmir’s main promenade on the Aegean coast stretches from the Konak settlement to the railway station and is 6.5km long. Bars, cafes and restaurants are located along the promenade. Museums, art centers and other important buildings are to be found here as well. 124 VOYAGER 10/2018

IZMIR / IZMIR PROVINCE, AEGEAN SEA COAST

BALÇOVA

YENGEÇ

These thermal springs are 8km away from the center of Izmir. They are considered the largest closed baths in Turkey. They were was founded by the legendary Agamemnon, King of Mycenae. According to legend, the ancient Greeks brought dying warriors here to be cured by the healing properties of the waters.

Yengeç is the best place to taste meze – classical Turkish appetizers. Locals often enjoy meze with raki. We recommend calamari with eggplant and honey. İskele Mahallesi 2121. Sokak No: 6 KEY HOTEL

This hotel offers an impressive view of the Aegean Sea from its terraces and rooms. Its restaurant serves local and European dishes. Double room price: starting at 100 € Mimar Kemalettin Caddesi No:1, Konak

SWISSOTEL GRAND EFES IZMIR

Water temperature varies between 62 and 80 degrees. The hotel complex on the site is visited by those seeking to treat diseases such as rheumatism, digestive problems, gynecological problems, neurosis, eczema, bladder pathologies and post-surgery rehabilitation procedures.

This hotel is located on the sea shore in the center of the city. Some of the rooms offer sea views, while others look over a huge park. This 402-room complex features three restaurants, two bars, a European spa and a Turkish bath. Double room price: starting at 130 € Gaziosmanpasa Bulvari No: 1 Alsanca

Room price: starting at 60 € Vali Hüseyin Ögütcen Cad. No:2 Balçova MEŞHUR HISARÖNÜ ŞAMBALICISI

Visit Meşhur Hisarönü Şambalıcısı to try Şambalı, a Middle Eastern dessert. This dessert – made from bulgur, yoghurt, almond and sugar – has been baked here since 1942. Customers often eat it with cream. Şambalıcısı, Konak Mahallesi 901. Sk 13/A, 35250 Konak

DOUBLETREE BY HILTON

This hotel is close to the city’s main sites such as the clock tower, Konak square, central shops, restaurants and Izmir market. The rooftop pool, spa and panoramic restaurants provide all the conditions for an enjoyable holiday. Prices: From 90 € Ismet Kaptan Mahallesi 1373 Sk. N5 Konak WYNDHAM GRAND IZMIR ÖZDILEK

This hotel’s massive windows face the Aegean Sea, and guests can see the beautiful city coastline in all its splendor. Its restaurants (where you can enjoy Turkish and international dishes), night clubs, open and indoor pools, spa and various relaxation services are distinctive features. İnciraltı Sokak No:67, Balçova

REYHAN PASTANESI

GÖZLEMECIM

The Reyhan Pastanesi bakery is the best place to have the delicious dessert that comprises creamy, chocolate crunchy dough balls.

Gözleme is a traditional savory Turkish flatbread and pastry filled with various toppings between two layers. It is a staple of Turkish cuisine. Gözlemecim is the best place in Izmir to try the pastry, and you’ll find 70 varieties of it.

Kültür Mahallesi, Dr. Mustafa Enver Bey Cd. No:24, Konak ŞORTAN PASTANESI

This shop is famous for its Lor Tatlısı, a dessert made from local soft cheese covered with sweet syrup.

Konak Mahallesi, 897. Sk Konak

Ülkü Mahallesi, Mithat Paşa Cad. 835/A, 35240 Konak 125 VOYAGER 10/2018

DENIZ RESTAURANT

Aegean coastal cities are the best place for fresh fish, and Deniz Restaurant is one of the best eateries. It has perfected the craft of grilling seafood. Kültür Mahallesi, No:/B Atatürk Cd. No:188

MAVRA This modern restaurant, with views of Izmir’s highrise buildings, is favored by locals. Grilled octopus is its most popular dish. The restaurant also offers traditional meze and a large selection of fish. Cemal Gürsel Caddesi İnci Apt. No:506, 35590 Karşıyaka

TAVACI RECEP USTA

Tavacı Recep Usta is the best place to go in Izmir if you get bored with seafood and want meat. Here, you can find a lot of varieties of kebab, roast lamb and skewered lamb liver. Ulus, Atatürk Cd. No:364, 34537 Alsancak

ALACATI / IZMIR PROVINCE, THE AEGEAN SEA

WINDSURFING, KITESURFING

ALAÇATI

Located on the coast of the Cesme Peninsula, the picturesque Alaçatı used to attract only sailing and surfing lovers. Now it competes with Turkey’s most prestigious resorts. The historic Greco-Turkish settlement maintains the rhythm of a fishing village combined with the finest boutique hotels and restaurants.

The Alaçatı coast deserves to be called ideal. A permanent sea breeze attracts a lot of extreme sport lovers to this city. If you plan to learn how to glide on the waves, we recommend the ASPC. The course will cost you 250 €.

IT TAKES ABOUT 50 MINUTES TO TRAVEL FROM IZMIR TO ALAÇATI; TAXIS COSTS 55-60 €. THERE IS NO PUBLIC TRANSPORTATION IN ALAÇATI, SO IF YOU ARE PLANNING TO TRAVEL LONG DISTANCES, YOU NEED TO RENT A BICYCLE OR MOPED.

FISHING IN DEEP SEA Eight years ago, several friends decided to make their craft a competition and turned it into an international tournament. Last year, more than 400 fishermen with 80 galleys participated. The only condition for those who want to participate in the competition is a love of fishing.

BEACHES Paşalimanı - This coast is for relaxation. You can rent a bungalow and engage in sailing and water biking. The narrow streets are full of the scents of spices, desserts and teas and small colorful historic houses; fairy-tale Alaçatı is tranquil and has a clear sea. From 1922 to 1923, Greeks lived in Alaçatı. The new generation of successful Turks are established here today, and most of them arrive on holidays or at the weekends, while others reside here permanently.

 Köse Kahve This is the best café to experience street charm. ALAVYA

The cozy hotel-boutique is a luxurious paradise with large rooms and an excellent pool. Double room price (with breakfast): 300-600 € Yeni Mecidiye Mh. 3005 Sk. 6

 Barbun - In addition to seafood, this restaurant also serves excellent Turkish cuisine.  Ferdi Baba Traditional cuisine and fish are the favorite dishes of permanent guests.

IN APRIL, WORLD GOURMANDS GATHER AT THE ALAÇATI

Çiftlikköy - Ocean Club offers a relaxing holiday in open-air huts by the sea. You can swim and tan. There are no restaurants here.

FESTIVAL. IT IS FAMOUS FOR ITS LOCAL SPICES. PARTICIPANTS COMPETE TO CREATE THE BEST DISHES.

 Lisa Corti Italian clothing brand offers jewelry and beach accessories.  Serap Yurdaer - You will find the most beautiful items in this signature ceramics shop.  Pop - this shop has been selling antique items since the 1960s of the last century.

126 VOYAGER 10/2018

ÇEŞME The Aegean coastal resort region is rich with beautiful beaches and an excellent seaside promenade. It offers a wonderful walk along the beaches for those who are put off by Alaçatı’s luxury and high prices. The ancient city of Cesme is full of late-nineteenth-century Greek neoclassical buildings. Getting a tan on the beach and relaxing in the thermal baths and spas is the best part of any holiday. You can also enjoy surfing and kiteboarding.

BOZCAADA / ISLAND, THE AEGEAN SEA

Bozcaada, formerly known in Greek as Tenedos, is a small island located in the Dardanelle Strait, in the northern part of the Aegean Sea. It used to be a favorite weekend and summer destination for Istanbul locals. This small, 40 sq km area with excellent sandy beaches and vineyards has become not only a vacation spot for many Europeans but also a permanent residence.

BOZCAADA

LEGEND TELLS US THAT THE MYTHICAL TROJAN HORSE WAS CREATED ON TENEDOS. HOMER HIMSELF REFERS TO THIS ISLAND AS A PLACE WHERE THE ACHAEANS HID THEIR SHIPS.

The Greek population defended the island until 1204 until it became the property of the Venice Republic. Later, Pope Urban VI set out to neutralize the situation, evicting 40 Greek families from the island. The Ottomans conquered the island in 1470.

BOZCAADA BADEMLIK

The Turkish district is considered a quiet place. There is a five-room white hotel with a minimalist design. Breakfasts are served on a terrace with a wonderful view. Price of a double-room: 150 € (with breakfast) Cumhuriyet Mahallesi, Asmalı Fırın Sokak No: 19

LATIFE HANIM KONAĞI

Latiff, considered to be the island’s distinctive hotel, occupies the best site in the center of Hanım Konağı. There is a nice terrace on the roof with a sea view. Price of a double room: starting at 190 € Cumhuriyet mah. Atatürk Cad. No.23 LUNCH IS USUALLY SERVED AT THE BEACH. TRADITIONALLY, MEZE AND SEAFOOD ARE ENJOYED FOR LUNCH, WHILE GUESTS GO TO RESTAURANTS IN THE CITY CENTER FOR DINNER.

BOZCAADA KALESI The fortress (kalesi) is the calling card of Bozcaada. It is a huge and impressive building, which was established at the time of the Phoenicians, and then revived first by the Genoese then by the Venetians. In the end, the Turks, led by Sultan Mehmed, extended it.

THE BEST WAY TO GET TO BOZCAADA IS BY THE FERRY, WHICH RUNS FROM GEYIKLI YÜKYERI FERRYBOAT PIER. IT RUNS EVERY 35-40 MINUTES. YOU CAN DRIVE FROM ISTANBUL OR IZMIR TO ÇANAKKALE, THEN GO GEYIKLI. THERE ARE SEVERAL DAILY FLIGHTS FROM ISTANBUL; IT TAKES ABOUT ONE HOUR TO REACH GEYIKLI FROM THE AIRPORT.

POLENTE CAFÉ

This is the best choice for fish and seafood. In the summer, the restaurant’s branch opens on the beach. Seared calamari are especially tasty. Price for two persons, including a glass of wine: 40 €.

The island’s popular open café is the best place to see sunset. You can taste food from morning until late at night and enjoy a perfect drink with the best music as a background.

Alaybey Mahallesi, Yalı Cad. No:4, 17680

İskele Caddesi

BORUZAN

AYAZMA

The beach is best for tanning and eating delicious foods in local restaurants. The best beach - Ayazma - is just six kilometers from the city.

127 VOYAGER 10/2018

THE ISLAND HAS BEEN CELEBRATED FOR CENTURIES FOR ITS VINEYARDS AND RED POPPIES (TRY A SWEET DRINK MADE FROM POPPY). THE TRADITIONAL WINE FESTIVAL IS HELD ANNUALLY ON THE FIRST SUNDAY OF SEPTEMBER.

CORVUS

We recommend trying this wine. Marani Corvus Winery, founded in 2002, produces the best Turkish wine. The owner, the famous architect Reşit Soley, uses ancient methods of wine making.