INSURGENT SOL VEGA FASH 419 10/02/21
INTRODUCTION The global pandemic has changed the world's perspective as COVID-19 has restricted and changed our lives completely. We are experiencing political changes, unjust systems, and outdated norms. This caused the punk movement to come back; now individuals feel a relentless call for activism and justice.
The Punk movement began in the United Kingdom and the United States in the 1970s, as people were frustrated by systematic injustice and events beyond their control. As a result, young individuals started to identify with the ideology behind punk. It became a celebration of expression, freedom, and anarchy. People were tired of feeling oppressed by society and started to raise their voices.
This relates to today's issues as Covid-19 has brought a breach against today's rules and standards. Individual's feelings on nonconformity have risen; they are showing rebellious and activist acts against the traditional norms of society.
Fashion has become a way of expression and manifestation of thoughts of angst and insurgence. For A/W 22/23, we see how the poppunk movement has evolved, giving consumers freedom of expression and becoming a way of objection against the basic expectations of how we should dress or act in order to fit into society.
INFLUENCES
DIY Do it yourself ethic has become the key to success; individuals are starting to realize they can succeed and accomplish everything themselves, from making social changes to making their own clothes or room decorations
rebellion The feeling of rebellion and insurgency has come back, now individuals are breaking the norm.
music artists Music artists are a huge influnce for the youth community, now artists such as Willow Smith and Olivia Rodrigo are writing pop-punk songs that express their feelings of angst and grief. Making teenagers feel identified with them.
SOCIAL
SOCIAL
REBELLIOUS ACTIVISMS
We are passing through an era of distress and unexpected changes; now, individuals feel angst and unconformity with their life's path. Now we live in constant uncertainty of what there is to come next. People are tired of waiting around for changes; instead, they started to adjust our traditional systems of society. The pop-punk era is back, and we know it; individuals are ready to show off their feelings of angst and anger in acts of activism and rebellion. Movements such as Black Lives Matter are a clear example of how people have become aware of today's issues; by protesting and raising their voices, they will change the traditional norms of society and make the world conscious about what is happening currently.
FUTURE Constant worries of what the future will hold after passing through such complex events of the global pandemic. People are not afraid to raise their voices; they want to be noticed in order to make changes in today’s world They believe that in order to change injustice and traditional norms of society, we need to start acting and make them now. “Never leave that till tomorrow, which you can do today.” – Benjamin Franklin
VALUES Non-conformity, individuals live with a constant feeling to go against the standards or norms of a society. Do-it-yourself ethic, people believe that in order to make actual changes, you need to make them yourself. Self – expression, with Pop Punk, is all about showing your feelings and thoughts through art, music, dance, or any way possible. They are huge believers in anti-conservatism; they want to replace traditional views on politics and societal norms with new open-minded perspectives. "I think that people just want to scream and growl and express themselves because this time in life and in America and on Earth is not easy. I think that people just want to live and have fun and not feel like impending doom is always around the corner.” -Willow Smith (Pop Punk Music Artist)
ASPIRATIONS They aim to create a liberal society and encourage progressiveness. To encourage an unapologetic ideology so people are not ashamed to say what they think or do. To empower individuals to show their authentic selves and embrace the idea of inclusivity and diversity in today’s society.
FASHION
color
Color plays a massive role in this trend, as individuals are have passed through emotional distress after being in lockdown for such a long time. The color palette is composed by a mix of black with intense graphics and prints of Red, burgundy, maroon, yellow, lazuli blue, lilac, and optic white.
PUNK Revival
Current Influence Going back to the late 1990s, mid-2000s, inspired by teens youth, where anxiety, angst, and boredom play a considerable role, we have the new era of Punk, inspired by pop girls and grunge style. The Gen- Z generation is fascinated by this Pop Punk trend, which emerged by Pop culture Tik Tok trends, and emerging influencer styles. Individuals seek comfort after the pandemic, versatile pieces characterize this style, and trans-seasonal design, we see a lot of mid-weight pieces that can be easily layered and combined, making the life of the consumer much easier.
Music artists like Willow Smith and Olivia Rodrigo play a huge in this trend. Recently we saw Willow Smith release her new Punk-inspired song "Transparent Soul", where she was featured in the music video pop-punk inspired outfits. Such as graphic cutouts, platform boots, a Vivianne Westwood draped corset paired with a spiked collar, and electric blue prickly Chet Lo bodysuit paired with bulbous vortex boots by Robert Wu. We also see Olivia Rodrigo, pop's new favorite breakup singersongwriter wearing this pop-punk style, as she likes to mix girly and emo pieces together. Her punk influences come from her love for plaid pants, graphic tees, chunky boots. In addition, she's is known for wearing pieces from pioneer punk designers such her Vivienne Westwood and the new Marc Jacobs line, Heaven, a punk and grungeinspired line.
Looking Back
Vivienne Westwood the mother of punk, brought this subcultural style to the forefront of fashion, as she was known for provocative garments and fetish wear such as corsets with tartan prints, furs, kilts and puffy silhouettes.
Madonna, The Queen of Pop, also was part of punk style in the 70’s and 80’s, as she used to wear heavy dark make-up, fishnet tights and rubber bracelets. This rebellious style was shocking at the time, and she was a fan of it. For her Lucky Star video, she wore a miniskirt with a mesh tank top, black lace gloves, stilettos and her backcombed hair with an oversized bow.
In addition, we see how in the past Fashion Houses such as Chanel released their iconic motorcycle boots, which were worn by Evangelista and miraculously saved the brand from being forgotten. This spirt of Punk is back on runways. In Chanel’s Cruise 2022 they showcased a minimalistic Punk inspired collection, with black and white graphic tees and fishnets.
NEW DESIGNERS Furthermore, Heaven by Marc Jacobs a Gen – Z focused brand, is the trending at the moment. This punk and grunge line with a double-headed mutant teddy bear as its logo was launched last year and is full of spiked accessories, and pleated tartan patterns. Their youthful fluidity of culture, centers in DIY and childlike garments and accessories.
FABRICS
In terms of fabrics, consumers are fascinated with upcycling textiles and creating their own prints by bleaching different denims and jersey knits and creating pop punk essential items. After the emotional turmoil of lockdown, consumers are driven to DIY customized fabrics, and we see many Graffiti-inspired patterns that follow this rebellious punk look. As we all know, the tartan plaid cottons played a massive role in this trend, as we see them all over pleated skirts. In addition, sheer mesh fabrics are back and all over the place. We see them in ripped tops and tights that give that messy punk look. Overall there is inspiration from academia and schools prints and patterns.
Accessories
DIY accessories have become a must-have, for the youth market, we see a lot of chunky personalized jewelry with playful charms, beads, and pearls. In addition, we see controversial and interesting pendants such as safety pins, hearts, teeth, nostalgic motifs, and nameplates.
LIFESTYLE
Modern Revolution
Generally, we all have different beliefs and get involved in different daily practices in our society, making a culture. Punk culture has some uniqueness like any other culture, and it remains pervasive due to its great foundations in doing things differently. In the punk community, individuals raise in contrast to the status quo; they stand out, and “that’s hard to forget.” The culture calls for having a sense of rebellion and looking for opportunities to rebel against it. The culture has significantly transformed by breaking social boundaries, advocating freedom of expression, and free love. Cultural iron is extensively used in expressing themselves on social media through aesthetics. Individuals are not afraid to share their feelings and emotions through social media; they use videos and photos to expose their true selves and show the world authenticity. A great example is women empowerment and body positivity movements. Hashtags such as #inclusivitty and #hotgirlsummer resonates with today's audiences as they promote transparency.
Alternative Spaces
There is a recreation of fond childhood memories, comforting designs, fusing styles, and techniques in their plans creates peace during difficult times. Interiors have been changed so much by punk culture to the point of do-it-yourself ethic. Now individuals don’t care about profit nor societal norms but collectively go against capitalism. They are focused on finding happiness through transforming pieces into their pleasure and even doing it themselves. Interior design is of great concern here in which it is focused on creating new designs that offer more fun, seeks alternatives of lifestyle, comfort, and reassurance. Now individuals see DIY Tik Tok videos to redecorate their apartments; their designs and paintings are made in a certain way to harness the dynamic power that helps induce feelings of happiness, comfort, and optimism. They go to the extent of buying vintage and used furniture and decorations; pop-punks get to live by their standards. Furthermore, a recreation of fond childhood memories, comforting designs, fusing styles, and techniques in their plans creates peace during difficult times.
furniture DIY
Vandalism with a Cause
Nowadays, individuals are fascinated by the idea of freedom of expression, and they are using art to express their feelings and thoughts. In terms of art, we see how graffiti and childlike art have come back; individuals explore spray-painted effects and create motifs and texts that relate to their current state of emotion. Even they are going against traditional aesthetics and using unconventional texts to mock classic art. Young consumers are leading this new era of anti-aesthetic by subverting established structures yet remaining optimistic and forward-thinking. Artists such as Emily Dawn Long, Laundry Room, IKONICK, David Shrigley, and Liana Finck.
SOURCES
https://www.wgsn.com/interiors/article/87637#page_7 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/91781 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/91369 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/91677 https://www.wgsn.com/fashion/article/91541#page10