Bon Appetit - November 2021 by SOMOSTUDIO - ส้มโอสตูดิโอ

Admit It: The Sides Are the Best Part P. 62 Stanley Tucci’s Holiday Table P. 56 Five Desserts to Finish Strong P. 48

THANKSGIVING SIMPL I F IED Irresistible recipes featuring 10 ingredients or less P. 38

Sheet-Pan Turkey With Gravy P. 4 7

IT TOO, GOT EVEN BETTER WITH TIME.

G R A N D

A D V E N T U R E S

R E T U R N

W A G O N E E R . C O M

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November VOLUME 66 NUMBER 9

OUR KIND OF THANKSGIVING DRAMA

15 The Buy Set the table with artful, eye-catching candles. BY HILARY CADIGAN

16 Family Meal Radicchio-bean salad, dal palak with lime, and more weeknight dinners. 28 Kitchen Upgrade Actionable tips to create a more earthfriendly kitchen. BY SAM COCHRAN

30 The Pour The case for serving American Pinot Noir with that turkey, care of sommelier André Hueston Mack. 34 The Getaway Bahamian native Simeon Hall Jr. explains what to eat, drink, and do on the archipelago’s island of New Providence. 36 All on the Table Senior staff writer Alex Beggs highly recommends the queso at the funeral.

38 Thanksgiving, Simplified Want to take things easy? We’ve got a flavorful, festive menu of recipes, all with 10 ingredients or fewer.

56 Do It Like Tucci From his signature martini to his tableware, etiquette musts, and more, actor-icon Stanley Tucci breaks down his rules for entertaining.

BY KENDRA VACULIN

BY DAWN DAVIS

48 Did Somebody Say Dessert? Cookbook author and bakery owner Cheryl Day shares a sweet potato cake, a modern pineapple upsidedown cake, and other unforgettable ways to end the holiday feast.

62 We’re Just Here for the Sides And you probably are too. BA editors share fresh recipes to make the potatoes, cranberries, casserole, and stuffing even tastier this year.

70 “Let’s Make What We Adore” This joyful ethos guides fashion designer and recipe developer Peter Som ’s Thanksgiving meal. 81 Basically Your guide to cooking with the ultimate cold-weather comfort food: potatoes.

88 Dream Dinner Party Actor-producer Issa Rae imagines a sun-kissed evening in Senegal. BY DAWN DAVIS

IN EVERY ISSUE 10 editor’s letter 86 recipe index

BY AMIEL STANEK

ON THE COVER

Sheet-Pan Turkey and Gravy (for recipe, see p. 47). Photograph by Christopher Testani. Food styling by Ali Nardi. Prop styling by Alex Brannian.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRISTOPHER TESTANI. FOOD STYLING BY VICTORIA GRANOF. PROP STYLING BY ALEX BRANNIAN.

P . 51

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Editor in Chief

DAWN DAVIS Executive Editor SONIA CHOPRA Test Kitchen Director CHRIS MOROCCO Deputy Editor MERYL ROTHSTEIN Director of Editorial Operations NICK TRAVERSE

Editorial

Design

Test Kitchen

Editorial Director AMANDA SHAPIRO Digital Director SASHA LEVINE Senior Editor, Cooking SARAH JAMPEL Senior Staff Writer ALEX BEGGS Culture Editor HILARY CADIGAN Restaurants Editor ELYSE INAMINE Lifestyle Editor KAREN YUAN Associate Editors ALI FRANCIS, BETTINA MAKALINTAL Associate Editor, Cooking ANTARA SINHA Assistant Editor CHALA TYSON TSHITUNDU Digital Production Assistant NICO AVALLE Recipe Production Assistant MEHREEN KARIM Assistant to the Editor in Chief JENNA ADRIAN-DIAZ Entertainment Director CAITLIN BRODY

Contributing Creative Director RACHEL LASSERRE Contributing Designers WALTER GREEN, DRUE WAGNER Art Assistant JULIA DUARTE

Senior Food Editors ANDY BARAGHANI, CHRISTINA CHAEY Associate Food Editors RACHEL GUR JAR, ZAYNAB ISSA, KENDRA VACULIN Assistant Food Editor JESSIE YUCHEN

Global Commerce Category Director, Food & Home ELAHEH NOZARI Senior Commerce Editor MACKENZIE CHUNG FEGAN Commerce Writer TIFFANY HOPKINS

Photography Contributing Visuals Editors TINA ANDERSON, ELIZABETH JAIME, ALEX POLLACK, ALLIE WIST Assistant Visuals Editor DONDRE STUETLEY Staff Photographer EMMA FISHMAN Associate Staff Photographer ISA ZAPATA

Operations Production Managers MAT T CARSON, KATE FENOGLIO Copy Director GREG ROBERTSON Copy Manager BRIAN CARROLL Research Director RYAN HARRINGTON Contributing Research Editors MADELINE SCHEIER, MARISSA WOLKENBERG Contributing Editor

MARCUS SAMUELSSON

Recipe Editors LIESEL DAVIS, JONATHAN MILDER

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Editor ’s Letter

The Bright Sides and took advantage of my university’s study-abroad program. Atop a windy road in Florence, I settled into la dolce vita. It’s nearly impossible not to sound clichéd when describing that first encounter with Italian life. Like so many before me, I loved the idea of eating pasta virtually every night, loved the experiential learning that involved bold Tuscan reds and bright proseccos—to say nothing of that special indulgence, bistecca alla Fiorentina. Come Thanksgiving I was so happy that I didn’t fret when roast duck instead of turkey graced the table. It didn’t matter to me because there were still plenty of potatoes, veggies, rice (okay, risotto) and, of course, desserts. Not everyone shared my “when in Rome” attitude. Indeed, one classmate actually burst into tears when he realized there’d be no turkey. I learned then there are three kinds of people when it comes to Thanksgiving. Those who ignore tradition to do their own thing—and Alex Beggs’s singularly moving piece on grief (page 36) encourages anyone who’s had a difficult year to do just that. Those who think it’s IN COLLEGE I LIVED THE DREAM

1 0 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

sacrilege to have anything but turkey as the main attraction. And those, like myself, who’d much rather fill their plate with sides. Luckily, the BA team is evenly split. Some love turkey and are wild about Kendra Vaculin’s recipe for Sheet-Pan Turkey and Gravy (page 47). Others go big on the sides. We indulged our potato obsession this month, from Christina Chaey’s Cacio e Pepe Rösti (page 69) to Brad Leone’s Garlic-Miso Butter Mashed Potatoes (page 68), which was inspired by his new cookbook, Field Notes for Food Adventure. We also have recipes for Bitter Greens With Cranberry Dressing (page 68), a subtly spicy Chorizo and Calabrian Chile Stuffing (page 68), and more. If you’re still searching, check out our expansive offerings at bonappetit.com/sides. Speaking of Calabria, we have a look at Stanley Tucci’s new book, Taste, and the scoop on how he celebrates Thanksgiving (page 56). Like Tucci, recipe developer Peter Som shares how his upbringing influences the big meal—his mouthwatering menu draws from his Chinese heritage. As beautiful as they are tasty, these dishes are perfect for the holiday table or any table that’s meant to impress (page 70). Because no Thanksgiving would be complete without desserts, we brought in esteemed baker and boss lady Cheryl Day (page 48). If anyone wants to know what they can bring to your table, send them this feature (sweet potato cake with chocolate ganache, anyone?). And unless you want to see someone break out in tears at your table, warn them if you’re going to skip the turkey.

DAW N DAV I S edi tor i n chi ef @bonappetitdawn on instagram

PHOTOGRAPH BY EMMA FISHMAN. FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE LENG.

Flaky, buttery, and arguably better than the turkey. P. 47

©J&JCI 2021

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E d i t o r ’s L e t t e r

What Three destinations on my mind by DAW N DAV I S

I’m more relaxed just thinking about Playa Grande Beach Club.

An effortless escape from

Playa Grande Beach Club

the everyday and a portal

If you want to get away right now (and I don’t blame you), think about the Dominican Republic. Traveling in the era of COVID-19 will always be tricky, but Playa Grande Beach Club’s on-site testing option makes it easier to enjoy their gorgeous, secluded beach; local, casual, and sumptuous approach to food; and the region’s activities: hiking, snorkeling, tennis— and beach naps, of course. Their house drink of lime juice and mint, served with yuca chips and guacamole, is reason enough to return.

to all that’s exceptional and unforgettable. Paradise has never felt so perfect .

Dunmere House COVEATLANTIS.COM/BA 877.553.6923

I love the aesthetic of Dunmere House, Kahina Van Dyke’s second inn in Oak Bluffs, MA, which is an area on Martha’s Vineyard that has long provided a space for African American community, friendship, and fellowship. I imagine myself escaping here to one of its stylish, colorful, and modern yet classic studios when my own family’s heated debates (politics, sports, Thai vs. Italian) get the best of me.

1 Hotel Central Park

New York’s Central Park is one of my favorite places in the world. If you’re a New Yorker who’s staying put or if you’re visiting to experience the return of Broadway, I’d suggest a stop in the park. It’s stunning yearround and full of magical nooks and the city’s best asset: its people. The staff at 1 Hotel Central Park and its dog-friendly policy made my staycation even more fun.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PIP COWLEY

PARADISE PERFECTED

PARADISE IS CALLING. PACK LIGHT. COVEATLANTIS.COM/BA | 877.553.6923

WHAT COFFEE IS MEANT TO BE

AMERICAN WINES

ENCHILADAS FOR

FOR THANKSGIVING

GHOSTS (AND US)

R e c i p e s , E s s e n t i a l G o o d s , a n d Te s t K i t c he n K n o w - H o w

p. 30

p. 36

Burn, Baby, Burn Scented candles are lovely, but turkey redolent of tuberose isn’t. That’s why I focus my tablescape on eclectic shapes and colors instead: an amber tower of river rocks, a pyramid with golden inlay, a bust that could’ve been sculpted by Michelangelo. They bring the vibes but let the stuffing biscuits (page 44) speak (er, smell) for themselves and make the fact that none of my plates match look intentional. — H I L A R Y C A D I G A N , C U L T U R E E D I T O R

ILLUSTRATIONS BY LIANA JEGERS. PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN.

1. Tan Piu Candle Set by Ann Vincent, $60; ssense.com 3. Anaïs Man Candle, $80; anaiscandle.com P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

2. Rose Gold-Rimmed Ivory Geometry Candles, from $35; caicaihandmade.com 4. Areaware Totem Pillar Candles, $48 for set of three; food52.com N O V E M B E R 2 0 21 – 15

Family Meal

Spinach-packed dal, rich pork cacciatore, and more weeknight recipes for dinners beyond turkey day

Lettuce is green with envy!

PUT SOME RESPECT

on radicchio. Despite the visual similarity, this red wine–hued roughage isn’t actually a cousin of cabbage, but rather a member of the chicory family. Radicchio is sturdier and more bitter than other leafy veggies and has long been lauded for its antioxidant benefits— Pliny the Elder celebrated radicchio as a “blood purifier” in his A.D. 77 tome, Naturalis Historia. Use it raw to bring a balancing bitterness to citrusy salads (like the white bean salad on p. 18), or sear it on the stovetop or braise to mellow out its bite. —CHAL A T YSON TSHITUNDU

1 6 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

P H OTO G R A P H S BY J U L I A N C O U S I N S

Find BelGioioso Cheeses near you!

belgioioso.com/Product-Locator

Family Meal

Radicchio, Bean, and Feta Salad A gently infused olive oil and lemon mixture does double duty as a marinade for the white beans and a dressing for the salad R E C I P E BY K E N D R A VAC U L I N

4 S E RV I N G S

1 4 ¼ ½ 2 1½

lemon garlic cloves, smashed tsp. crushed red pepper flakes cup extra-virgin olive oil 15.5-oz. cans white beans, rinsed tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt Freshly ground black pepper

Use any white beans you have on hand, like cannellini, Great Northern, or navy.

1. Remove zest from lemon in wide lengthwise strips with a vegetable peeler, avoiding as much white pith as possible. Cut lemon in half and squeeze juice through a fine-mesh sieve or your hand into a small bowl; discard seeds. Set juice aside. 2. Heat lemon zest, garlic, red pepper flakes, and oil in a medium saucepan over mediumlow, stirring to break garlic apart and reducing heat if oil around aromatics starts to sizzle too much, until fragrant, 10–12 minutes. (The garlic should gently cook but not take on much color.) 3. Remove saucepan from heat and add beans, reserved lemon juice, and salt; season with black pepper. Toss to combine; let sit at least 15 minutes. 4. Meanwhile, toast pistachios in a dry small skillet over medium heat, tossing occasionally, until golden brown, 5–8 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board and coarsely chop. 5. Combine radicchio, brussels sprouts, and ¼ cup dill in a large bowl. Crumble in feta in large pieces and toss to combine. Using a slotted spoon, add beans, garlic, and lemon zest. Drizzle with infused oil and toss to coat. 6. Mound salad on a platter; top with pistachios and remaining dill.

1 8 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

¼ cup raw pistachios 1 head of radicchio, thinly sliced 6 oz. brussels sprouts, trimmed, thinly sliced ½ cup coarsely chopped dill, divided 8 oz. feta

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Family Meal

Shrimp and Salami Pasta This dish is simple and faintly celebratory (butter! wine!). For glossy, saucy pasta, use a large pot to thoroughly toss it all together R E C I P E BY S H I L PA U S KO KOV I C

1. Season shrimp with 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt.

4 S E RV I N G S

1 lb. shrimp, peeled, deveined, tails removed, patted dry 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 12 oz. orecchiette or other short pasta 3 oz. log salami, preferably fennel, thinly sliced into rounds ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

6 1 1 1 1 1 ½

Zest and juice of 1 lemon garlic cloves, finely chopped tsp. crushed red pepper flakes tsp. fennel seeds, lightly crushed small fennel bulb, tough outer layers removed, finely chopped cup dry white wine tsp. smoked paprika cup coarsely chopped parsley

Any size shrimp (either fresh or thawed from frozen) will work well here.

2. Cook pasta in a large pot of boiling salted water, stirring occasionally, until very al dente, about 2 minutes less than package directions. Drain pasta, reserving 1 cup pasta cooking liquid. 3. Meanwhile, heat a large heavy pot over medium. Cook salami, turning occasionally, until crisp around the edges (some of the fat will have cooked out), 6–8 minutes. Transfer to a small plate. 4. Melt butter in same pot. Add lemon zest, garlic, red pepper flakes, and fennel seeds; cook, stirring often, until garlic is just golden, about 2 minutes. Add chopped fennel, season with salt, and cook, stirring often, until softened, about 2 minutes. Add wine and increase heat to mediumhigh; cook, stirring occasionally, until alcohol smell is mostly gone, about 3 minutes. Add shrimp and paprika and cook, stirring occasionally, until shrimp are bright pink, about 2 minutes. 5. Add pasta and reserved pasta cooking liquid to sauce. Reduce heat to medium and cook, stirring often, until pasta is well coated and glossy, about 4 minutes. 6. Remove pasta from heat, season with salt, and mix in lemon juice, parsley, and salami. Divide pasta among shallow bowls or plates to serve.

2 0 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

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EVERY

LU X URY INCLUDED

Family Meal

Pork Chop Cacciatore Bone-in pork chops cook quickly and pair deliciously with the tangy, sweet sauce of this wineand-tomato-based stew R E C I P E BY A N N A GASS

1. Pat pork chops dry with paper towels. Season on both sides with salt and pepper; sprinkle all over with dried oregano. 2. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high. Cook pork chops, undisturbed, until just starting to brown, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to a plate. 3. Reduce heat to medium and add remaining 1 Tbsp. oil to pan. Cook bell pepper, onion, and garlic, stirring often with a wooden spoon, until onion is softened and golden, about 4 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring often, until vegetables are coated and paste is darkened slightly, about 1 minute. Add wine, scraping up any browned bits. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently until wine is reduced by a little more than half, about 5 minutes. 4. Mix in diced tomatoes, capers, 2 oregano sprigs, and remaining 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt and cook, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, until sauce is slightly thickened, 18–22 minutes. 5. Nestle pork chops into sauce and add any juices that have collected on plate. Spoon a bit of sauce over pork and simmer gently until meat is cooked through and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part registers 145°, 6–8 minutes. 6. Divide chops and sauce between plates. (Cut meat from bones and thickly slice if dividing among 4.) Top with oregano and serve with bread. 2 4 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

2 –4 S E RV I N G S

2 5–6-oz. bone-in pork rib chops 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more Freshly ground black pepper 1 tsp. dried oregano 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 1 red bell pepper, ribs and seeds removed, coarsely chopped

1 small onion, coarsely chopped 2 garlic cloves, smashed 1 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste ¾ cup red wine 1 28-oz. can diced tomatoes 1 Tbsp. drained capers 2 sprigs oregano, plus leaves Crusty bread (for serving)

Serve with a loaf of crusty bread to sop up all the succulent sauce.

Family Meal

Dal Palak Strapped for time? Skip washing and chopping full-size spinach leaves and use prewashed baby spinach straight from the package R E C I P E BY C H I T R A AG R A WA L

1. Rinse dal in a fine-mesh sieve. Transfer to a medium saucepan and pour in 3 cups water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. (Watch carefully as the water can boil over quickly.) Cook, skimming foam from surface, until mixture stops foaming, about 3 minutes. Stir in turmeric. Reduce heat to medium-low, partially cover, and simmer until tender, 25–30 minutes. Remove from heat and squeeze in juice from a lime half, then stir in 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt.

4 S E RV I N G S

1 ¼ 1 1½

cup masoor dal (red lentils) tsp. ground turmeric lime, halved, divided tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided, plus more 2 Tbsp. ghee or unsalted butter ½ tsp. black mustard seeds

½ ½ 1 1 2 1 3

tsp. cumin seeds tsp. fennel seed small dried red chile, broken in half small onion, coarsely chopped garlic cloves, finely chopped tsp. finely grated peeled ginger cups spinach, coarsely chopped Steamed rice, cilantro leaves, and lime wedges (for serving)

Add a big pinch of asafetida to the melted ghee for an extra savory note.

3. Add spinach mixture to dal; season with salt. Divide rice and dal among bowls. Top with cilantro; serve with lime wedges.

2 6 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

FOOD STYLING BY ADRIANA PASCHEN

2. Meanwhile, melt ghee in a high-sided skillet over mediumhigh heat. Add mustard, cumin, and fennel seeds and cook (a matter of seconds) until mustard seeds start to pop and oil around other seeds is sizzling. Reduce heat to medium. Add chile and stir to coat. Add onion and cook, stirring occasionally to coat, until translucent and softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and ginger and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add spinach and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt and cook, stirring often, until wilted but still bright green, about 1 minute. Remove from heat and squeeze in juice from remaining lime half.

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Kitchen Upgrade

Green Room Designer Jennifer Jones shows us the fundamentals of building a sustainable (and chic!) kitchen b y SA M C O C H R A N

Safer Storage “Sustainable design,” Jones explains, “is not just about how your choices affect the environment, it’s about creating healthy homes.” In the kitchen, that starts with storage. “Cabinetr y can be the biggest offender in terms of off-gassing,” she says, referring to the noxious chemicals released by the materials in many furnishings. She suggests using timber that is free of urea-formaldehyde (a toxic resin) and is labeled as FSC-certified, like the ApplePly birch used for this Aptos, California, home.

DESIGNER

Jennifer Jones of Niche Interiors HOME BASE

San Francisco GREEN BONA FIDES

LEED Accredited Professional; ambassador for the Sustainable Furnishings Council; founding member of the Good Future Design Alliance GO-TO MEAL

Homemade pasta and marinara sauce

P H OTO G R A P H BY PAU L DY E R

LEARN THE LINGO

Make a (Subtle) Splash

Jones of fers a quick lesson in sustainable vocabular y

“Be careful with color in the kitchen,” Jones says. “People’s tastes change.” Rather than commit to cabinets or appliances in trendy hues that come and go, she delivers color in smaller doses—like the backsplash tile in this Sonoma kitchen. Choose brands that are committed to recycling waste, such as Heath Ceramics.

ZERO-VOC

PHOTOGRAPHS: R. BRAD KNIPSTEIN (WHITE ISLAND, BLACK ISLAND); PAUL DYER (GRAY ISLAND); COURTESY BENJAMIN MOORE (PAINT); COURTESY GE APPLIANCES (REFRIGERATOR); COURTESY FIRE CLAY TILE (TILE)

“ There’s no excuse not to use it,” Jones says of paint made without harmful chemicals known as volatile organic compounds. Her fave? “I’m a Benjamin Moore girl.” Chestertown Buff, from $45; benjaminmoore.com

ENERGY STAR

“ This [federal program] refers to appliances that are more energy-efficient, often 10% more.” GE Profile 4-Door French Door Refrigerator, $3,900; geappliances.com

Think Long-Term “Replacing countertops is one of the worst things for the environment,” Jones says. For clients who fret over stains, she suggests resilient solid surfaces like Cambria, Silestone, and Caesarstone (pictured here). “Know your limits and pick something that will last years.” Still, that doesn’t mean shunning marble altogether. In this Bay Area kitchen, statuary slabs clad just the backsplashes.

Breathe Easy Jones tends to favor induction cooktops, which have the least impact on air quality. But for clients who insist on gas, a powerful vent (like the Wolf hood in this Napa kitchen) helps minimize the effect of any CO₂ emissions— no matter what it is that you’re cooking. “Anytime you light your stove, use the vent.”

ZERO WASTE

When possible, source from companies that are zero waste, or entirely offset their carbon emissions. Sanxenxo tile, $30; fireclaytile.com N O V E M B E R 2 0 21 – 2 9

Domestic Partners American Pinot Noir deserves a spot on your Thanksgiving table b y A N D R É H U E S TO N M AC K ABOUT EIGHT YEARS AGO

I was scrolling through my Instagram feed the day after Thanksgiving, catching up on all the amazing bottles friends and colleagues had uncorked the night before. For the most part they were trophy wines from Europe. This struck me as odd. I couldn’t imagine Italians celebrating a meaningful national holiday with anything other than Italian wines. Would a Parisian open a Napa Cabernet on Bastille Day? It would be treasonous. American food heritage is deeply important to me; it’s the driving force behind my restaurant, & Sons, which opened last year and serves American ham every bit as delectable as prosciutto and jamón Ibérico. Ever since that day eight years ago, I’ve served only American wines at my family’s Thanksgiving, the bottles sandwiched between the turkey— indigenous to North America—and the apple pie. Americans produce world-class wines that I am proud to serve on special occasions—and on Tuesdays, for that matter. Pinot Noir is a perfect Thanksgiving wine because of its versatility. Domestic Pinot Noirs balance fruit with a refreshing acidity that complements everything from turkey to cranberry sauce to candied yams. Here are a few to seek out:

1. Mat t Taylor Komorebi Vineyard Pinot Noir

Matt Taylor worked at a number of prestigious wineries in both California and France prior to starting his own label. Serve this bottle—which features notes of Sonoma forest floor mingled with red berries and tart cherries—with a centerpiece turkey. $71

3 0 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

2. Westmount Pinot Noir Rosé

This Willamette Valley rosé delivers both red wine flavor and the thirst-quenching acidity of a white wine. I serve this with hors d’oeuvres, but I also make sure to sock away an extra bottle for the day after Thanksgiving— it pairs perfectly with turkey sandwiches. $20

3. Pray Tell Pinot Noir

Tom Caruso left a career in publishing to pursue winemaking, a skill he learned from his grandfather. He founded Pray Tell in McMinnville, Oregon, and his Pinot Noir is a star. This spicy, barrel-aged selection plays nice with sausage-and-sage stuffing smothered in gravy. $38

Th e P o u r

PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN

P H OTO G R A P H BY E M M A F I S H M A N

Th e G e t a w a y

Shima ’s yellowtail sashimi with yuzugarlic dressing and pickled red bell peppers

Small Island, Big Flavor In New Providence there’s sun, sand, and amazing food by S I M E O N H A L L J R .

3 2 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

P H OTO G R A P H S BY J U L I A N C O U S I N S

When someone we love has cancer, we are all affected — husbands, wives, mothers and fathers, sisters, brothers, and friends. This is our effort in the fight against cancer.

JOIN US IN THE FIGHT AGAINST CANCER AT RALPHLAUREN.COM/PINKPONY G l o b a l l y, 2 5 % o f t h e p u r c h a s e p r i c e f r o m t h e s a l e o f e a c h i t e m i n t h e P i n k P o n y c o l l e c t i o n i s d i r e c t e d t o a n i n t e r n a t i o n a l n e t w o r k o f c a n c e r c h a r i t i e s w i t h i n t h e U n i t e d S t a t e s , p r o c e e d s b e n e f i t t h e P i n k P o n y Fu n d o f T h e R a l p h L a u r e n C o r p o r a t e Fo u n d a t i o n .

The G e t a wa y

New Providence a culinary griot. As in, I’m a storyteller, and the unapologetic theme that underlies my storytelling is that each major island in my native Bahamas has its own unique flavor. The Bahamas is an archipelago of 700 islands, so let’s start with New Providence, where I grew up and honed my skills as a chef. This island capital, which is only 21 by seven square miles, is a melting pot of natives, immigrants, and tourists, which influences the food culture. Here you’ll find burgeoning craft cocktail bars alongside conch salad stands and restaurants featuring the food of fellow islands the world over (Thai curries!) a short drive away from no-frills kitchens focused on Bahamian cooking. These are the restaurants, bars, and shops I visit again and again. I always tell people to come for the sun, sand, and sea but stay for the food of my homeland. I C O N S I D E R MYS E L F

THE ESSENTIALS

The Hot Spots

• Fisherman Yellow’s Conch Stand • Island Brothers & Cie • Evelyn’s Kitchen • Sun & Ice • Shima • Café Matisse • Bon Vivants • Nesbitt’s

When to Visit

Between August 1 and March 31 (lobster season!) Where to Stay

Baha Mar, the islands’ newest luxury resort with three world-class hotels and a wide array of dining experiences What to Bring Back

If you were at Bon Vivants’ bar right now, you’d be having this much fun too. 3 4 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

Locally produced Bee in the Bahamas guava jam

Fisherman Yellow’s Conch Stand Conch salad in the Bahamas is what barbecue is to Texas, what poke is to Hawaii, and what ceviche is to Peru: a local delicacy. It typically includes the raw, chewy mollusk; fresh vegetables; and citrus. Everyone has their go-to combination, and mine comes from this conch stand along Montagu Beach. Fisherman Yellow and his team craft each bowl as skillfully as a well-tailored suit. Whether your conch salad is filled with firm seasonal mangoes, native goat peppers, and extra lime or is scorched (the local term for scored) with onion, lime, orange, and Bahamian bird pepper (my favorite), it’s a must-order. To not have conch salad while in the Bahamas is to not have visited. Island Brothers & Cie This French bistro with island vibes is where I take friends when I want to impress. Located just outside the upscale Lyford Cay community, Island Brothers & Cie is a quaint restaurant run by a family of French expats. I always order whatever the specials are on the menu and the delectable Wagyu bavette with pomme frites. While I usually dine indoors for the ambience, last summer’s breezes have made me keen for the outdoor dining experience here too.

Th e G e t a w a y

Cold, creamy joy (benny cake crumble!) at Sun & Ice

ILLUSTRATIONS BY WALTER GREEN

Evelyn ’s Kitchen If you’re visiting the Bahamas, I’m definitely taking you to this cozy food trailer on Potter’s Cay dock. Evelyn and her crew serve a mix of Bahamian and Haitian foods: steam ham, ham braised in tomato sauce; griot, citrus-marinated fried pork; and fried fish. This is the kind of home cooking I wish I saw in more restaurants. Sun & Ice What do you get when you add local Bahamian fruits, spices, herbs, and nostalgia to a rich crème anglaise? This delightful ice cream shop from chefs Wayne and Ivana Moncur. Situated in the lobby of the Atlantis resort’s Coral tower, the shop churns out small batches of seasonal, locally sourced flavors, like soursop and caramelized sugar banana, allspice potato bread, and benny cake crumble. The dynamic duo also owns Bakehouse, which is known for its creative doughnuts, such as guavastrawberry, PB&J, and hibiscus.

Shima On any given night Shima is the backdrop to a date, an important business meeting, a wedding proposal, a party for the newly divorced, and the like. (Shima’s been my spot for a few of these reasons!) The food here celebrates the delicate, savory flavors of Thailand, Indonesia, and Vietnam and uses local ingredients, which makes it feel very Bahamian. The brunch is popular, but I go for dinner and order all the small plates, which change often. If you see the grilled roti—flaky and charred to perfection—get it. Café Matisse Parents never openly admit to having a favorite child, although they surely have a stronger connection with one. That’s how I feel about this old-school Italian spot, where the food and service are consistently on point. Try the homemade ravioli with osso buco and roast gravy, or ask about the daily specials. Either way it’ll be unforgettable.

Fishermen at work along Montagu Beach

WHERE TO ISLAND HOP

Grand Bahama Go to the Dolphin Cove resort for gorgeous views, then drive to West End for pickled conch. Great Exuma Island Visit the world-famous swimming pigs in Big Major Cay and enjoy fried fish or roasted veg on the beach. Harbour Island For a luxurious excursion stay at The Landing hotel and try the acclaimed restaurant’s spicy crab capellini. North Abaco After Hurricane Dorian, Richie’s Restaurant has returned better than ever. It’s still the spot for smothered pork chops. Bimini Ernest Hemingway’s hideaway is also renowned for its baked goods. Head to Charlie’s Bread and order a dozen dinner rolls.

Bon Vivants This is the premier craft cocktail bar of the Bahamas. The bartenders are not just adept but entertaining, and their drinks don’t disappoint. I love the Big Major Smash, a Bahamian tiki-style rum concoction, and the Zephyr, a citrus-forward gin and tonic. A lot of restaurant folks come here after dinner or a shift to unwind. Just make sure your phone is charged—not only are the drinks stunning but so is the decor. It’s Instagram overload. Nesbit t’s This decades-old mainstay is an earshot away from the crashing waves of the northern shoreline in the Delaporte community. Locals gather to talk about island politics, international news, and gossip, but they linger for the seafood. For breakfast there is an amazing stew fish, the catch of the day simmered in a velvety brown-roux gravy. For dinner there is lightlyfloured-and-fried grouper seasoned with bird pepper. N O V E M B E R 2 0 21 – 3 5

A l l o n t h e Ta b l e

Ghosts at the Table They say there are two things in life you can count on—death and enchiladas by ALEX BEGGS

3 6 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

my grandparents’ house in Galveston Island, Texas, was moved from the interior of the island to the beachside. The island had been wiped out by the historic 1900 storm, a hurricane that killed thousands and flattened the landscape. One of my mom’s favorite bedtime stories was telling us about the nuns at an orphanage who tied the kids together to keep them safe in the storm—only to have them drown because of it. Every time she told the story the number of orphans grew. So this is the place, and the people, I come from. We’ve scattered the ashes of so many relatives in the Gulf that now I can’t swim in those brown salty waters without thinking, Mom? You out here? And a hermit crab will bite AROUND A HUNDRED YEARS AGO,

P H OTO G R A P H BY I S A Z A PATA

FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON

my toe, saying, Naw, lady, she was crawfish food a decade ago. There are other things in this water to fear. After the Great Storm the island rebuilt and a two-story temple of Tex-Mex called the Original Mexican Cafe opened. If I’m there I’m ordering the chicken mole enchiladas with a side of charro beans. Mole can get too chocolaty if the cook is heavy-handed, but here it’s in perfect balance with smoky ancho chiles. Hurricanes have come and gone—so have those we loved and thought we couldn’t live without—but that recipe stays the same and somehow we go on living. Like that Thanksgiving stuffing you’ll never tweak, these enchiladas allow time to stand still for once. We ate at the Original after seasoning the beach with my mom, and even on that weird day, I was relieved to be there. If you’ve never had queso at a funeral, I can’t recommend it enough. Baskets of tortilla chips were staggered along tables of family flattened by this other hurricane. “I just can’t believe it,” said my grandpa. “I keep expecting her to walk through the door.” Instead, a server appeared with more chips. Gale-force grief fools you into thinking no one else has ever felt this way. You are the island, sinking below sea level. Writing about it is overwrought (oof, these hurricane metaphors) and the takeaways are always the same: Live life to the fullest; go on lots of vacations; pour the Champagne. That’s all great but kinda expensive, so I prefer to revel in the small, boring moments. I love a good nap. When I wake up I’m excited to be conveniently alive. And with standards that low, everything seems amazing. Last December I was thrilled to be buying a strawberry-banana-spiked smoothieseltzer called Smooj when I got the text that my grandpa had been hospitalized with COVID-19. If you want to be reminded of how short, sweet, and stupid life is, have a Smooj. (It’s delicious.) What happens when you’re 91 and have COVID is you die. I wanted my grandpa to pass in his flannel pajama pants and recliner watching PBS, but death doesn’t show up at your doorstep with a laminated menu. At the time, all the politicians were saying stuff like, “There’s going to be an empty seat at the [insert holiday here] table this year,” which drove me nuts. As if I need to be reminded by a shell-haired pundit that I’m missing someone so badly I have recurring dreams about losing my limbs.

When you’re grieving, certain times of year that used to be all pumpkin spice and everything nice get spiked with sadness. And that sadness can threaten to take away from your having a good time. My advice: Don’t let it. On Thanksgiving I make sure to do whatever the hell I want. Are enough people doing this? Duck legs in place of turkey, hazelnut flan instead of pumpkin pie, staying home instead of traveling. I hope the ghosts at the table don’t mind, but this year there’s going to be enchiladas and a shrimp cocktail course.

When I visited my grandma after Grandpa died, she was outside her apartment with a rosary in one hand and peanuts in the other, luring a squirrel and apparently praying for its soul. She got to say goodbye to Grandpa in the hospital as long as her 90-pound, COVID-resistant frame was covered head to toe in PPE. He’d said, “I’m fine.” She told me it meant he was fine with dying. Then she added, “You know, he always loved sleeping,” and I cracked up, crying and laughing.

Chicken Mole Enchiladas

Toast chiles in a dry small skillet over medium-low heat until pliable and slightly puffed with a few lighter-colored blisters, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a blender, add raisins and 2 cups broth, and tamp down chiles to submerge. Let sit until softened, about 20 minutes. Add mole paste, bouillon paste, peanut butter, and sugar to blender and purée until smooth. Heat 2 Tbsp. oil in a clean large pot over medium. Pour chile paste into pan (stand back, mixture will spatter!) and cook, stirring and scraping bottom of pot constantly, until paste is dark, glossy, and the texture of ketchup, 8–10 minutes. Add chocolate and remaining 2½ cups broth; bring to a boil, whisking often. Cook, whisking, until chocolate is melted and sauce thickens slightly, about 2 minutes; season with salt. Let cool until just warm. Shred chicken in bowl and add half of cheese; toss to combine. Season with salt. Heat remaining ¼ cup oil in a small skillet over medium-high until hot but not smoking. Submerge each tortilla in oil just long enough to soften, 10–20 seconds each (they should be slightly darker with small blisters). Transfer to paper towels to drain. Preheat oven to 400°. Spread 1 cup mole in a 13x9" baking dish. Dip a tortilla in mole in pot, lightly scraping against rim to remove excess. Fill with ¼ cup chicken mixture, roll up tightly, and place seam side down in baking dish. Repeat with remaining tortillas (they can be tightly packed into dish). Pour remaining mole over tortillas; sprinkle remaining cheese on top. Bake until cheese is melted and filling is warmed through, 8–10 minutes. Top enchiladas with cilantro and onion and serve with rice, refried beans, and lime wedges for squeezing over.

6 S E RV I N G S

In these enchiladas served at the Original Mexican Cafe in Galveston, TX, a streamlined approach to making velvety rich mole cuts down on ingredients but not flavor. FILLING

1½ lb. skinless, boneless chicken thighs (4–5) 1 small onion, halved 1 celery stalk 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt M O L E A N D ASS E M B LY

4 large dried ancho chiles, stems and seeds removed ⅓ cup golden raisins ¼ cup mole paste (preferably Rogelio Bueno) 1 Tbsp. chicken bouillon paste 2 tsp. creamy peanut butter 1 tsp. sugar 2 Tbsp. plus ¼ cup vegetable oil ¼ cup chopped semisweet chocolate Kosher salt 8 oz. Monterey Jack, coarsely grated (about 2 cups), divided 12 5"–6" corn tortillas ¼ cup coarsely chopped cilantro Finely chopped onion, cooked rice, refried beans, and lime wedges (for serving) F I L L I N G Bring chicken thighs, onion, celery, salt, and 5 cups water to a boil in a large pot. Reduce heat and simmer very gently until chicken is cooked through, 12–15 minutes from the time water starts simmering. Transfer chicken to a medium bowl; let cool. Strain broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a large measuring cup (you should have 4½ cups); discard solids.

Alex Beggs is Bon Appétit’s senior staff writer.

M O L E A N D ASS E M B LY

r e c i p e s b y K E N D R A VA C U L I N

Thanksgiving,

S H E E T - PA N T U R K E Y A N D G R AV Y P. 47

photographs by EMMA FISHMAN

Simplified

Feeling a little out of practice when it comes to holiday hosting? Us too. This year, instead of trying to re-create the extravagance (and stress) of Thanksgivings past, we’re easing back into turkey duty with a menu that prioritizes beloved flavors over fussy techniques. With no more than 10 ingredients per recipe, these dishes check all the festive boxes without burying you in prep. So quit hunting for that barely used roasting pan—this year we’re keeping it simple.

Kale Salad With Pecan Vinaigrette P. 4 6

Green Beans and Mushrooms With Crispy Shallots P. 4 6

Cranberry and Golden Raisin Relish P. 4 6

Stuffing Biscuits P. 47

Twice-Roasted Squash With Vanilla, Maple, and Chile P. 4 6

Cranberry and Golden Raisin Relish MAKES 2¾ CUPS

In this no-fuss sauce, tart cranberries meet their match in bright ginger and fruity golden raisins. 1 lb. fresh (or frozen, thawed) cranberries 1 2" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 1¼ cups golden raisins (about 8 oz.) ¾ cup sugar 3 Tbsp. fresh orange juice 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter ½ tsp. ground allspice Kosher salt Cook cranberries, ginger, raisins, sugar, orange juice, butter, allspice, and a big pinch of salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally and reducing heat as needed to keep from scorching, until cranberries have burst and relish is thick and jammy, 10–12 minutes. Let cool before serving. D O A H E A D : Relish can be made 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.

Kale Salad With Pecan Vinaigrette 8 S E RV I N G S

This dressing is nutty, salty, savory, and just sweet enough, with a hefty texture that holds its own against sturdy kale. If you don’t have a food processor, you can chop your ingredients by hand—your finished dressing won’t be as creamy (the result of pulsing the oil with the nuts), but it will still taste great. 1½ 2 ½ 2 1 ⅓

cups pecans garlic cloves, finely grated cup extra-virgin olive oil Tbsp. drained capers Tbsp. honey cup apple cider vinegar Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper 2 large bunches Tuscan kale, ribs and stems removed, leaves thinly sliced 1 bunch radishes, trimmed, thinly sliced

Preheat oven to 350°. Toast pecans on a rimmed baking sheet, tossing halfway through, until slightly darkened and fragrant, 8–10 minutes. Let cool. Transfer a handful of pecans to a cutting board and coarsely chop; set aside for serving. Pulse garlic, oil, capers, honey, and remaining pecans in a food processor until nuts are in small pieces. Transfer to a large bowl and stir in vinegar; season dressing with salt and pepper. Add kale and radishes to bowl with dressing; toss to coat. Taste salad and season with more salt and pepper. Top with reserved chopped pecans.

Green Beans and Mushrooms With Crispy Shallots 8 S E RV I N G S

For green bean casserole fans who don’t have space in their ovens for another baking dish, this side features all the same vegetables cooked stir-fry style, with plenty of butter and a bit of salty Parmesan to finish. To minimize cooking time on the big day, blanch your green beans in advance and keep them in the fridge until you’re ready to go.

drain, and immediately season with salt. Set aside for serving. Add mushrooms to same skillet and toss to coat with oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 4 minutes. Season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until starting to brown, about 4 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add butter, reserved green beans, and 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt. Cook, tossing often and spooning foaming butter over vegetables, until butter darkens slightly and smells nutty, about 5 minutes. Add vinegar and season generously with pepper. Cook, stirring often, 1 minute. Transfer green beans and mushrooms to a platter and spoon any sauce in pan over. Top with Parmesan and reserved crispy shallots. D O A H E A D : Green beans can be blanched 1 day ahead. Pat dry; transfer to an airtight container or resealable bag and chill.

Twice-Roasted Squash With Vanilla, Maple, and Chile 8 S E RV I N G S

The undisputed hardest part about roasting squash is the prep— taking even your sharpest knife to a rock-hard gourd is laborious at best and dangerous at worst. We sidestep that dilemma by roasting kabocha squash whole, then tearing the tender flesh into pieces to roast again under a sweet-and-spicy glaze.

1½ lb. green beans, trimmed 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more ⅓ cup vegetable oil 3 large shallots, thinly sliced 1 lb. mushrooms (such as oyster, shiitake, or maitake), tough stems removed, torn into large pieces 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter 2 Tbsp. sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper 2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated

2 2–3 ½ 1

Cook green beans in a medium pot of boiling salted water until bright green, about 2 minutes. Drain and rinse green beans under cold water to stop them from cooking more. Set aside. Heat oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook shallots, stirring occasionally, until browned, frizzled, and crisp, 6–8 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to paper towels to

Preheat oven to 425°. Poke each squash a few times with a sharp knife, then place on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet. Roast until a fork easily pierces through skin, about 1 hour. Let sit until cool enough to handle, then cut each squash in half. Scoop out and

2½–3½-lb. kabocha squash Fresno chiles, thinly sliced cup pure maple syrup Tbsp. vanilla extract Kosher salt ⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil 3 Tbsp. toasted sesame seeds

discard seeds. Tear squash into large pieces and arrange, flesh side up, on same baking sheet. Increase oven temperature to 450°. Bring chiles, maple syrup, vanilla, and a big pinch of salt to a boil in a small saucepan; reduce heat and simmer until thickened, 8–10 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in oil. Generously season squash with salt, then spoon maple syrup mixture over each piece. Roast squash until darkened slightly and jammy in spots, 20–25 minutes. Transfer squash to a platter and sprinkle sesame seeds over. D O A H E A D : Squash can be roasted 1 day ahead. Let cool. Wrap in foil (leave whole) and chill.

Stuffing Biscuits M A K E S 12

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE LENG.

All the herby and aromatic flavors of a classic stuffing in the form of a tender biscuit. The folding technique builds buttery layers into each bite. They’ll be a hit on your Thanksgiving table and the next morning with leftover gravy for breakfast. (FYI: Salt and pepper are freebies in our 10-ingredients limit, so don’t go thinking we can’t count!) 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal kosher or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 Tbsp. baking soda ¼ tsp. baking powder 1 tsp. sugar 1½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 4 cups (500 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for surface 1 cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces 4 scallions, thinly sliced 3 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary 3 Tbsp. finely chopped sage 1 (heaping) Tbsp. fennel seeds 1½ cups chilled buttermilk, plus more for brushing Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 425°. Whisk salt, baking soda, baking powder, sugar, pepper, and 4 cups flour in a large bowl. Add butter and, using your fingers, work into dry ingredients, smashing and flattening and tossing to coat with flour, until you have some flat quarter-size pieces and some smaller pea-size pieces. Add scallions, rosemary, sage,

and fennel seeds and toss to evenly distribute. Add 1½ cups buttermilk and stir mixture with a fork just until a shaggy dough forms. Turn out dough onto a lightly floured surface and knead once or twice to incorporate any loose pieces. Pat dough into a 10x8" rectangle. Using a large knife, cut in half crosswise, then stack 1 piece on top of the other. Turn rectangle so a long side is closest to you and cut dough in half crosswise again. Stack 1 piece on top of the other. (This process will build layers into your biscuits.) Turn dough and pat again into a 10x8" rectangle. Cut into 12 even pieces (you should have a grid of 4 on the long sides and 3 on the short sides). Place biscuits on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spacing evenly, and freeze 10 minutes. Brush top of each biscuit lightly with buttermilk and bake, rotating baking sheet halfway through, until golden brown, 22–26 minutes. COOK THE COVER

Sheet-Pan Turkey and Gravy 8 – 10 S E RV I N G S

No fancy equipment required: All you need to make this golden brown and moist Thanksgiving turkey is a trusty baking sheet and flat wire rack. Just be sure to use a baking sheet with rimmed sides to catch any juices—you’ll use that precious liquid to make a fast and flavorful gravy while your turkey rests. 1 12–14-lb. turkey ⅓ cup Diamond Crystal or ¼ cup Morton kosher salt ¼ cup (packed) light brown sugar 1 Tbsp. smoked paprika 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, divided 3 cups turkey stock or low-sodium chicken or vegetable broth ⅔ cup all-purpose flour 1 Tbsp. Worcestershire sauce Freshly ground black pepper Assorted herb sprigs (for serving; optional)

Line a rimmed baking sheet with foil and set a wire rack inside. Pat turkey dry with paper towels and place, breast side up, on rack.

Mix salt, brown sugar, and paprika in a medium bowl to combine. Pat dry brine all over sides and in cavity of turkey, working into any crevices. Chill turkey, uncovered, at least 24 hours and up to 2 days. When you are ready to roast turkey, preheat oven to 400°. Arrange turkey, breast side up, on a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet (if using the same baking sheet, throw away foil and rinse pan to remove any accumulated salty liquid). Pour ¾ cup water into baking sheet (this will keep the drippings from burning). Roast, rotating baking sheet halfway through, until golden brown, 35–45 minutes. Meanwhile, melt ½ cup butter in a small saucepan over medium. Remove turkey from oven and brush or spoon half of the butter over turkey. Pour an additional ⅓ cup water into baking sheet. Reduce oven temperature to 300°. Return turkey to oven (if any spots are overly dark, like the wing tips, cover with small pieces of foil) and roast, rotating baking sheet and brushing turkey with remaining melted butter halfway through, until well browned and an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast registers 155° (temperature will continue to rise as the turkey rests), 70–80 minutes. Let rest on baking sheet at least 30 minutes. Lift and tilt turkey so that all the drippings from the bird and inside the cavity run onto the baking sheet, and transfer turkey to a cutting board. Pour drippings into a large measuring glass, scraping in browned bits stuck to baking sheet with a spatula. Pour in stock as needed to measure 4 cups. Melt remaining ½ cup butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add flour and cook, whisking constantly, until smooth and light golden brown, about 3 minutes. Gradually pour in drippings mixture, whisking constantly until combined. Reduce heat to low and simmer, whisking often, until gravy is thickened, about 5 minutes. Add Worcestershire sauce and whisk well. Season gravy with salt and lots of pepper. Carve turkey and arrange on a large platter. Tuck herb sprigs around turkey if desired. Serve with gravy on the side.

Did

Somebody Say

Dessert? PINEAPPLE UPSIDEDOWN CAKE P. 5 5

photographs by CHRISTOPHER TESTANI

A P P L E - R O S E P I E P. 5 4

We’ve got you covered with five phenomenal sweet treats from Cheryl Day’s new book, Treasury of Southern Baking, guaranteed to make any holiday meal memorable 49

Mini Baked Alaskas

When it comes to making desserts for the holidays, best-selling cookbook author and Back in the Day Bakery co-owner Cheryl Day has a lifetime of expertise to share. “My mom and I would make so many pies,” Day says while reminiscing about her late mother, Janie Queen. “I can still visualize her hands rolling things out. That’s probably my greatest memory of Thanksgiving—my favorite holiday, by the way.” Memory and heritage are central themes in Cheryl Day’s Treasury of Southern Baking, a comprehensive guide to mastering scratch baking featuring more than 200 new and revamped recipes. “It’s about paying homage to my ancestors and talking about the pride in the craft of Southern baking,” the Savannah-based baker says. Here we share a few of her prized desserts from the book, out November 9– including sweet potato cake enrobed in rich chocolate ganache (p. 55), bright lemonlavender crinkle cookies (p. 54), and a fragrant applerose pie (p. 54)–that promise to impress. “I take a simple recipe like an apple pie and infuse rose to elevate it,” Day says. “I like to innovate flavors much like a savory cook would.” —CHAL A T YSON TSHITUNDU

MINI BAKED ALASKAS 6 S E RV I N G S

This dramatic dessert can be broken down into multiple easy-to-make components that are designed to be made well ahead of time. Use any flavor of ice cream for the center. A kitchen torch is best for scorching the meringue, but in a pinch you could flash the Baked Alaskas under a broiler—just watch carefully and rotate often so they don’t go up in flames. CAKE

1¾ 2 1 1 1 ½ 1 1¾ ¾ 2 2 1 2

Unsalted butter or nonstick vegetable oil spray (for pan) cups (219 g) all-purpose flour, plus more for pan large eggs, room temperature large egg yolk, room temperature cup buttermilk, room temperature cup lukewarm brewed coffee cup vegetable oil tsp. vanilla extract cups (350 g) granulated sugar cup (60 g) Dutch-process cocoa powder tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt tsp. baking soda tsp. baking powder oz. (57 g) bittersweet chocolate, melted, slightly cooled M E R I N G U E A N D ASS E M B LY

½ cup (160 g) strawberry or raspberry jam 1 quart any flavor ice cream 4 large egg whites 1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar 1 tsp. cream of tartar 1 tsp. vanilla extract A 3"-diameter round cookie cutter (not fluted); a kitchen torch S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°. Butter a rimmed 18x13" baking sheet or lightly coat with nonstick spray. Line with parchment paper; lightly butter or coat parchment and dust lightly with flour, tapping out excess. Whisk together eggs, egg yolk, buttermilk, coffee, oil, and vanilla extract in a medium bowl. Mix granulated sugar, cocoa powder, salt, baking soda, baking powder, and 1¾ cups (219 g) flour in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment on low speed until combined, about 1 minute. Add egg mixture in 3 additions, beating on medium speed CAKE

30 seconds after each addition. Add melted chocolate and beat, scraping down sides of bowl to ensure everything is well mixed. Scrape batter into prepared baking sheet and rap on counter to level. Bake cake until a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 20–25 minutes. Let cake cool 15 minutes, then run an offset spatula along edges to loosen. Set a wire rack upside down over baking sheet and flip over to release cake. Carefully peel away parchment paper and let cool completely. M E R I N G U E A N D ASS E M B LY Transfer cake to a cutting board. Cut out 12 rounds with cookie cutter (leftover scraps are for snacking). Top 6 cake rounds with a 1 Tbsp. dollop of jam each; sandwich with remaining cake rounds. Place each cake sandwich on an 8" square of plastic wrap (lightly moistening the counter will help plastic stay flat). Soften ice cream just enough to be able to scoop with a #8 ice cream scoop (or a heaping ½ cup). Arrange a scoop of ice cream, flat side down, on top of each cake sandwich. Pull plastic wrap up and around cake and ice cream and twist to seal tightly. Freeze until ice cream is very hard, at least 1 hour. Just before serving, heat egg whites, granulated sugar, and cream of tartar in the bowl of a stand mixer set over a saucepan of barely simmering water (do not let bowl touch water), whisking constantly, until sugar is dissolved and an instant-read thermometer registers 120°, 5–7 minutes. Fit bowl onto stand mixer fitted with whisk attachment, add vanilla extract, and beat on medium-high speed until meringue forms stiff, glossy peaks, about 5 minutes. Unwrap ice cream domes and place on individual heatproof plates. Working quickly, spread meringue over domes with a spoon or small offset spatula, making lots of decorative swirls and peaks all over. (You can also use a pastry bag fitted with a large fluted tip and pipe meringue over each dome.) Make sure all of the ice cream and cake is covered. Toast meringue with kitchen torch until golden. D O A H E A D : Ice cream domes can be assembled 3 days ahead. Keep frozen. Cover with meringue and toast just before serving.

L E M O N - L AV E N D E R CRINKLES P. 5 4

Sweet Potato Loaf Cake With Dark Chocolate Ganache P. 5 5 53

8 S E RV I N G S

Long before vanilla extract became widely available, rose water was the flavoring of choice in America. Plan to mix the filling at least 4 hours ahead so the accumulated juices can be reduced before assembling and baking. While the pie pictured has a layered top crust to create a floral effect, here we call for a simple rolled-out top crust with a few vents, which does the job nicely.

Transfer dough to a surface; gather into a ball. Using the heel of your hand, smear dough across surface by a full arm’s length to flatten. Using a bench scraper, gather back into a ball. Smear and regather 2 more times. Cut dough in half. Wrap each piece tightly in plastic; flatten into a disk. Chill until firm, at least 1 hour. D O A H E A D : Dough can be made 1 week ahead. Keep chilled or freeze up to 1 month. If frozen, thaw overnight in refrigerator before using.

DOUGH

1 2½ 1 2

Tbsp. apple cider vinegar cups (313 g) all-purpose flour Tbsp. granulated sugar tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 tsp. baking powder 1 cup (2 sticks) chilled unsalted butter, cut into pieces F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

3 lb. firm baking apples (such as Pink Lady or Granny Smith; about 6), peeled, cored, thinly sliced ¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar ¼ cup (packed; 50 g) light brown sugar 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into ½" pieces 1 Tbsp. fresh lemon juice 2 tsp. ground cinnamon ¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg ¼ tsp. ground cardamom 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more for surface 1½ tsp. rose water, divided 2 Tbsp. plus 1 cup heavy cream, divided 2 Tbsp. powdered sugar S P E C I A L E Q U I PM E N T :

A mini cookie cutter

D O U G H Combine vinegar and ½ cup cold water in a measuring glass. Whisk flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder in a large bowl. Add butter and toss to coat. Working quickly and using a pastry blender or 2 butter knives, cut butter into flour to create large shaggy pieces of dough (you want some pea-size pieces of butter and some that are large and chunky). Drizzle half of the vinegar mixture over; stir with a fork until dough starts to come together (it should look a little dry, but add remaining vinegar mixture by the tablespoonful if needed).

Toss apples, granulated sugar, brown sugar, butter, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, salt, 2 Tbsp. flour, and 1 tsp. rose water in a large bowl until evenly coated. Cover and chill at least 4 hours or up to 12 hours. Drain apples in a sieve set over a small saucepan; transfer apples back to bowl. Bring liquid to a boil over medium heat and cook until thickened, about 4 minutes. Pour sauce over apples; toss to combine. Let dough sit at room temperature 5 minutes, then roll out 1 disk of dough on a lightly floured surface to a 12" round. Transfer to a standard 9"-diameter pie dish, then lift edges and allow dough to slump down into dish. Trim, leaving about a ½" overhang; chill while you roll out remaining dough disk to a 10" round. Using cookie cutter, punch out 4–8 vents in second round. Spoon apple filling, including any juices, into pie dish. Place second dough round over filling. Trim, leaving a 1" overhang. Press crusts together and fold over to seal. Crimp edges; decorate with cutout dough pieces as desired. Chill pie in freezer 20 minutes. Meanwhile, place a rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 400°. Place pie on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet; brush crust with 2 Tbsp. cream. Bake 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375° and continue to bake until crust is deep golden brown and juices are thick and bubbling, 60–80 minutes longer. Transfer pie to a wire rack and let cool at least 3 hours. Using an electric mixer on mediumhigh speed, beat powdered sugar, remaining 1 cup cream, and remaining ½ tsp. rose water in a small bowl until cream begins to thicken. Reduce speed to medium and beat until soft peaks form. Serve slices of pie with whipped cream. D O A H E A D : Pie can be baked 1 day ahead. Store loosely covered at room temperature. F I L L I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

LEMON-LAVENDER CRINKLES MAKES 36

Bright lemon and floral lavender balance each other in these crackly, chewy cookies. Keep the dough as cold as possible for the neatest assembly. 2 1 1½ 1 1 2 ¼ ½ ½ 1 ½

cups (250 g) all-purpose flour Tbsp. finely grated lemon zest tsp. baking powder tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt tsp. dried lavender buds (optional) large eggs cup fresh lemon juice tsp. vanilla extract cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature cup (200 g) granulated sugar cup (55 g) powdered sugar

Whisk flour, lemon zest, baking powder, salt, and lavender (if using) in a medium bowl. Whisk eggs, lemon juice, and vanilla extract in a small bowl. Beat butter and granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment on medium speed until pale and creamy, about 2 minutes. Add egg mixture and beat 1 minute to combine. Reduce speed to low and add dry ingredients in 3 batches, mixing just until combined after each batch before adding more. Dough will be very soft at this point. Cover bowl and chill dough at least 1 hour and up to 2 days. (If chilling longer than 1 hour, transfer to an airtight container; this will keep the dough from drying out.) Place racks in middle and lower thirds of oven and preheat to 350°. Place powdered sugar in a small bowl. Using a #60 or #70 cookie scoop (or 1 Tbsp.), portion out dough and roll into balls. Working quickly so dough doesn’t have a chance to warm up, drop each dough ball into powdered sugar and roll to coat evenly. Divide cookies between 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spacing 2" apart. Bake cookies, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until puffed and cracked and edges are set, but centers are still soft (cookies will look underbaked between the cracks), 10–13 minutes. Let cookies cool on baking sheets before serving. D O A H E A D : Cookies can be baked 3 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.

APPLE-ROSE PIE

PINEAPPLE UPSIDE-DOWN CAKE 12 S E RV I N G S

For an instant upgrade ditch the fire engine red cherries usually found in this retro classic for sophisticated, fruity Luxardo cherries. Flip the cake while it’s still warm (but not hot!) for easy removal. The mace adds an intriguing aromatic note to the pillowy-soft cake. CARAMEL TOPPING

1 cup (packed; 200 g) light brown sugar 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 15-oz. can pineapple slices, drained, patted dry 8 maraschino cherries (such as Luxardo), stems removed, patted dry C A K E A N D ASS E M B LY

2½ cups (288 g) cake flour 1 Tbsp. baking powder 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt ¼ tsp. ground mace or freshly grated nutmeg 3 large eggs, room temperature 1 Tbsp. vanilla extract 12 Tbsp. (1½ sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature 1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar 1½ cups sour cream Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 350°. Place a 13x9" metal baking pan by the stove. Cook brown sugar, butter, vanilla extract, and salt in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until butter is melted and mixture is bubbling, about 5 minutes. Pour caramel into baking pan and spread to evenly coat bottom with a heatproof rubber spatula, nudging into corners. Arrange pineapple slices on top of caramel without overlapping. Place a cherry in the center of each pineapple ring. Set aside. CARAMEL TOPPING

Whisk flour, baking powder, salt, and mace in a medium bowl. Whisk eggs and vanilla extract in a small bowl. Beat butter and granulated sugar in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with paddle attachment on medium-high speed until light and fluffy, about C A K E A N D ASS E M B LY

4 minutes. Add egg mixture in 4 batches, beating on medium speed 30 seconds after each addition and scraping down bowl as needed. Reduce mixer speed to low and beat in dry ingredients in 3 additions, alternating with sour cream in 2 additions, mixing 30 seconds after each addition. Fold batter a few times with a clean spatula, scraping down sides to make sure everything is well mixed. Scrape batter into reserved baking pan; smooth surface. Bake cake until golden and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 40–50 minutes. Transfer pan to a wire rack; let cake cool in pan 15 minutes. Run an offset spatula along edges of cake to loosen. Set a large platter over pan and flip over to release cake; carefully remove pan. If any fruit or cake sticks to pan, scrape it off and press back onto top of cake. Serve warm or room temperature. D O A H E A D : Cake can be baked 3 days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature. SWEET POTATO LOAF CAKE WITH DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE 12 S E RV I N G S

Completely cloaked in glossy ganache, a slice of this cake reveals its vibrant interior, gently spiced and faintly citrusy. If using canned sweet potato purée instead of freshly made, you’ll need less since it has a higher moisture content. CAKE

1 lb. sweet potatoes (2–3 medium), peeled, cut into 1" pieces, or 1 cup (250 g) canned sweet potato purée Unsalted butter or nonstick vegetable oil spray (for pan) 2½ cups (313 g) all-purpose flour 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 tsp. baking powder ½ tsp. baking soda 2 tsp. ground cinnamon ½ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg ¼ tsp. ground cloves 2 large eggs, room temperature 1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar 2 tsp. finely grated orange zest 1 tsp. vanilla extract 1 cup vegetable oil GA N AC H E A N D ASS E M B LY

½ cup heavy cream 4 Tbsp. unsalted butter, cut into 1" pieces

3 Tbsp. granulated sugar 2 Tbsp. brewed coffee ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt 8 oz. (227 g) bittersweet chocolate ½ tsp. vanilla extract C A K E Place a rack in middle of oven and preheat to 400°. If using raw sweet potatoes, wrap in foil and roast on a parchment-lined baking sheet until tender (a knife should slide easily into flesh), 50–60 minutes. Unwrap sweet potatoes and let sit until cool enough to handle. Transfer to a small bowl. Using a potato masher or fork, smash until smooth. Measure out 1¼ cups (250 g) purée; save any extra for another use. Reduce oven temperature to 325°. Butter a 9x5" loaf pan or lightly coat with nonstick spray. Line pan with parchment paper, leaving overhang on long sides. Whisk flour, salt, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves in a medium bowl. Whisk mashed sweet potato (homemade or canned), eggs, granulated sugar, zest, and vanilla extract in a large bowl until smooth. Gradually add oil, whisking constantly until completely incorporated. Using a rubber spatula, fold in dry ingredients in 2 batches, mixing just until combined after each addition. Scrape batter into prepared pan and smooth surface with an offset spatula. Bake cake until golden and a tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 75–90 minutes. Transfer cake to a wire rack and let cool in pan 15 minutes. Using parchment overhang, lift cake out of pan and onto rack. Remove parchment and let cake cool completely.

Bring cream, butter, sugar, coffee, and salt to a simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat, add chocolate and vanilla, and whisk until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. Let cool until thickened slightly, 40–60 minutes. Pour ganache over cake (it should flow over the sides) and, using a small offset spatula, smooth it evenly over surface. Chill cake until ganache is set, 20–30 minutes. Bring cake to room temperature before serving. D O A H E A D : Unglazed cake can be baked 3 days ahead. Store tightly wrapped at room temperature. GA N AC H E A N D ASS E M B LY

b y D AW N D AV I S

photographs by EMMA FISHMAN

*And by “it” we mean Thanksgiving, but also eating, drinking, hosting, and pretty much all things in life

PORTRAIT BY MYLES NEW. FOOD STYLING BY TROY WILLIS. PROP STYLING BY LUCY ATTWATER.

Do It* Like Tucci

First, a Martini

Who but Stanley Tucci could charm us on social media with his Negronimaking skills, eat his way through Italy for a documentary series, and publish a food-heavy memoir all during a global pandemic ? We almost forgot that he’s also a Hollywood star. But what we really want to know: What’s Tucci doing for Thanksgiving?

“Too many people say too many things, and I wish they’d stop,” writes Tucci about the iconic cocktail’s origins. “The only thing that matters is that the martini exists.” Tucci has been drinking his the same way for ages: gin or vodka (each has its time and place) with just a whiff of vermouth, and stirred not shaken—sorry, 007. It’s “the quintessence of elegance that we all aspire to and believe we acquire when we drink one,” he writes.

Martini Fill a glass beaker or cocktail shaker with ice and pour in ½ oz. dry vermouth. Stir 15 seconds, then let sit 30 seconds. Stir again, then strain out and discard vermouth. Pour 2–3 oz. high-quality gin or vodka into beaker; stir 30 seconds. Let sit 30 seconds, then stir again 30 seconds. Let sit another 30 seconds, then stir again quickly. Strain cocktail into a chilled glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or olives (you can have 1 olive or 3 but never 2!). Drink it. Become a new person. Makes 1

Don’t Skimp on Apps Tucci’s mother was all about the antipasti, even if there's a big meal ahead. “There’d be cured meats like prosciutto and salami, cheeses, olives, roasted peppers; there might be raw seafood, almost like a ceviche,” Tucci recalls.

W H AT T U C C I AT E A N D W H E R E , I TA LY E D I T I O N

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Sicily: Spaghetti alla bottarga. Pasta topped with lemon zest, dried fish roe, fried capers, and breadcrumbs. Oh, and dried, ground anchovies for extra punch.

Bring Out the Good China Whether he’s hosting a crowd or keeping it small, Tucci sets a formal table: china, flowers, candles, the whole nine. “When I was growing up, my dad, who is an artist, would always make little place cards,” he tells us. One year Tucci drew a cornucopia, then had it printed on his own cards.

Stay Classic

What’s on Tucci’s table? Turkey, of course, and stuffing with water chestnuts and hunks of bread. The cranberry sauce is homemade, the sweet potatoes are baked with butter, honey, brown sugar, and maple syrup (no, three sweeteners is not overkill). For greenery Tucci does brussels sprouts…with pancetta, obviously. Leftovers? An open-face turkey and gravy sandwich—cranberry sauce and mashed potatoes on the side.

Lombardy: Pizzoccheri alla Valtellinese, a baked dish made with buckwheat pasta, cabbage, potatoes, and two kinds of cheese.

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Florence: Schiacciata, a Tuscan version of focaccia in which the dough is smashed to make it thinner.

Bear Gifts

“My parents never visited their parents without bringing something,” Tucci writes. They were all so focused on generosity that squabbles broke out practically every Sunday, with Tucci’s grandmother trying to pay for a chicken or even return cheese his parents had brought. Tucci “still cannot bear the thought of arriving at someone’s home empty-handed.” Italians often bring olive oil, bread, or salt; Tucci's go-to is wine.

Rome: Carbonara. The iconic guanciale -eggcheese collaboration. Need we say more?

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Want More Tucci? Stanley Tucci is a winsome guide to the food of Italy, and his charm on the page is no less winning than it is on screen. In his new memoir, Taste: My Life Through Food, Tucci shares his love for food, both stateside and in Italy, in a wry and conversational tone. And he can't help but offer some firm opinions on pastas.

Amalfi Coast: Spaghetti con zucchine alla Nerano, a simple pasta made with little more than fried zucchini, fresh basil, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

A Few Words About Pasta

“There’s always a place at the table for pasta” is a Tucci truism. His mom was even known to serve a pasta course before the Thanksgiving meal. But even Tucci admits that was extra. “Sometimes you just knew you had so much food that you didn’t really need the pasta,” he says. However and whenever you want your pasta, here are Tucci’s rules, as he tells it in his memoir, out now. I feel it must be said that not all wheat flour pasta works with all sauces. The shape of the pasta is as important as the makeup and quality of its ingredients when it comes to the success of pairing it with the appropriate sauce; you might call it a divine coupling. Italians are very, very, very particular about what pasta goes with what sauce. Only certain salse complement certain paste and vice versa. This is why in any worthwhile Italian cookbook there will be at most three different types of pasta suggested to accompany a specific sauce. There have been times when someone in my household (no names) made a traditional family sauce and served it with a completely incompatible pasta. I cannot describe the feeling I have when confronted with this. First, I am angry at myself for not being able to cook the meal, most likely because I was doing something annoying like acting (an activity that frankly is beginning to wear a bit thin as the years go by),

and second, I am confounded that whoever made the choice (no names) does not innately know that, as per example, the combination of star pasta and a meat ragù is an act of heresy. As far as I am concerned, they may as well have just cut out my tongue with a broadsword and danced on the graves of my ancestors. My suggestion to anyone who eats pasta either with or without gluten is, please pair it with the appropriate sauce and vice versa, because you never know who might be watching. Here are a few wonderful and, for me, acceptable combinations of paste and salse. Spaghetti: Salsa pomodoro con tonno, carbonara, vongole Rigatoni: Beef-based ragù, all’Amatriciana Ditali: Salsa pomodoro con piselli, salsa pomodoro con cozze

And if you can’t travel to Italy… read Science in the Kitchen and the Art of Eating Well by Pellegrino Artusi. Written in the late 1800s, it put Italian food on the map.

GARLIC-MISO BUTTER MASHED POTATOES P. 68

A couple of spoonfuls of miso adds a little extra umami and saltiness to these spuds, a subtle bridge between the roasted garlic and dairy that nobody will quite be able to put their finger on. And yes: These potatoes are actually mashed. I’m not going to stop you from pulling out a ricer or food mill if supersmooth is your thing, but I personally like a bit of texture—a few bits of intact potato remind you that you’re actually eating, you know, potatoes. —BRAD LEONE, VIDEO HOST

WE’RE JUST HERE FOR THE

Sides Sides always have been and always will be the reason we’re excited about Thanksgiving. Far from supporting acts, they’re an opportunity to try something new, break from tradition just enough, and invite exciting flavors and textures to the table. Whether you’re after a stuffing with a surprise hit of spice, a cheesy potato cake to complement your usual mash, or a lively salad brightened by an unexpected cranberry dressing, our test kitchen has you covered this year photographs by EMMA FISHMAN

CHORIZO AND CALABRIAN CHILE STUFFING P. 68

I personally gravitate toward a holiday stuffing with a more classic flavor profile, but I’m also a firm believer that a little bit of spice improves most things. That’s why I incorporated meaty bits of spicy-tangy Mexican-style chorizo and a handful of fiery Calabrian chiles into this stuffing recipe. The heat these ingredients bring is fairly subtle, just enough to activate your taste buds in between bites of roast turkey and rich green bean casserole, and keeps you coming back for more. —RACHEL GURJAR, ASSOCIATE FOOD EDITOR

CACIO E PEPE RÖSTI P. 69

When it comes to potatoes, more is more in my family. A few Thanksgivings ago, not one but two potato dishes appeared on our table, no one batted an eye, and it’s been that way ever since. Mashed potatoes always RSVP to the party, but this year I’m serving this crispy guy alongside. I like that you can cut it into elegant wedges—a slice of civility on a plate occupied by blobs. Plus, all of the cooking takes place on the stovetop, meaning you’re not competing for coveted oven space. —CHRISTINA CHAEY, SENIOR FOOD EDITOR 65

BITTER GREENS WITH CRANBERRY DRESSING P. 68

If tart-sweet cranberry sauce is a Thanksgiving staple, why not use it to dress a bright, vibrant salad? In this recipe endives and frisée are topped with a chunky, tangy dressing made from canned whole-cranberry sauce—a bracing foil to earthy bitter greens. Sprinkled with crunchy candied pecans and salty shavings of Manchego cheese, this fresh and lively side is the dream complement to what can otherwise be a rather heavy spread. —JESSIE YUCHEN, ASSISTANT FOOD EDITOR

CORN AND HOMINY PUDDING P. 69

I vividly remember the time a visiting Southerner brought a dish of corn pudding to our Thanksgiving dinner. I was young, skeptical of additions to the holiday buffet, but became an enthusiastic convert: Dairy-rich and custardy, flecked with sweet corn, it felt like some kind of Turkey Day missing link. In this version the eggy pudding stays classic while other elements gesture southwest, with hominy adding chew, peppers offering warmth, and funky, crumbly Cotija turning the savoriness up to 11. —AMIEL STANEK, CONTRIBUTING EDITOR 67

GARLIC-MISO BUTTER MASHED POTATOES 8 S E RV I N G S

A little water added to the packet for roasting garlic will help it to gently steam while it roasts, creating pillow-soft, caramelized garlic that mashes easily at the touch of a fork. The delicious and versatile roasted garlic-miso butter used in this recipe is adapted from Leone’s debut cookbook, Field Notes for Food Adventure, available in November wherever books are sold.

2 heads of garlic 1 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature 2 Tbsp. white or yellow miso Freshly ground black pepper 4 lb. medium Yukon Gold potatoes 1½ cups heavy cream Preheat oven to 350°. Cut ½" off top of each head of garlic to expose just the tops of the cloves inside. Place on a 12"-square piece of parchment paper or foil. Drizzle with oil and season with salt. Drizzle 1 tsp. water over. Bring edges of parchment up and over garlic and fold together to make a packet and seal. Place on a small rimmed baking sheet and bake until very tender, 60–75 minutes. Let garlic sit until cool enough to handle, then squeeze out cloves into a medium bowl. Add butter and mash together into a paste with a wooden spoon or stiff rubber spatula. Add miso and mix well. Season garlic-miso butter with salt and pepper; set aside. Peel and quarter potatoes. Place in a large pot and pour in water to cover by 1"; season generously with salt. Bring water to a boil over medium-high, then reduce heat and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until potatoes are very tender (a tester or paring knife should easily slide into flesh), about 20 minutes from the time water starts to simmer. Drain potatoes and let sit 5 minutes to dry out; reserve pot. Bring cream to a simmer in reserved pot over medium-high. Remove from heat 68

and return potatoes to pot. Set aside about 3 Tbsp. garlic-miso butter for serving and add remaining garlic-miso butter to pot. Using a potato masher (or use a potato ricer or food mill if you prefer a silkier texture), smash potatoes until mostly smooth; taste and season mashed potatoes with salt. Transfer mashed potatoes to a large shallow bowl. Top with reserved garlicmiso butter and season generously with more pepper. D O A H E A D : Mashed potatoes can be made 2 days ahead. Cover and chill potatoes and reserved garlic-miso butter separately. Reheat potatoes over medium, stirring often and adding ¼ cup milk or water to thin if needed.

CHORIZO AND CALABRIAN CHILE STUFFING 8 S E RV I N G S

Sure you could cube the bread and let it get stale over a day or two, but that actually changes its flavor and texture for the worse. Gently toasting it instead means even better crispy-custardy texture and fresh-bread aroma later on. 1 2-lb. loaf country-style bread, cut into 1"–1½" pieces 2 large eggs 2½ cups low-sodium chicken broth 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided 4 fresh chorizo sausages (about 1 lb.), casings removed 1 medium onion, finely chopped 6 garlic cloves, finely chopped 5 celery stalks, finely chopped 10 drained oil-packed Calabrian chiles, thinly sliced, or 1 Tbsp. crushed red pepper flakes ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into pieces 1 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary 1 Tbsp. finely chopped sage ½ cup chopped parsley, plus more for serving 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt, divided Preheat oven to 250°. Arrange bread cubes in a single layer on 2 large rimmed baking sheets, dividing evenly, and bake, tossing occasionally, until dried out, about 1 hour. Let cool, then transfer to a very large bowl. Increase oven temperature to 350°.

Whisk eggs and broth in a medium bowl to combine; set aside. Heat 1 Tbsp. oil in a large skillet over medium-high. Cook sausages, stirring and breaking into small pieces with a wooden spoon, until browned and cooked through, 5–7 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a plate. Heat remaining 3 Tbsp. oil in same pan over medium. Add onion, garlic, and celery and cook, stirring often, until softened but without taking on any color, 6–8 minutes. Add chiles and butter and cook, stirring often, until butter is melted, about 2 minutes. Stir in rosemary and sage and cook, stirring, until fragrant, about 1 minute. Remove skillet from heat and return sausage to pan. Add ½ cup parsley and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt and stir well to combine. Scrape mixture over bread in bowl and mix well to combine. Pour reserved egg mixture over and fold gently until thoroughly coated. Stir in remaining ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt. Transfer stuffing to a 13x9" baking dish and pack stuffing down into pan with spatula or your hands. Cover dish with foil and bake stuffing until bubbles appear around the edges (you may need to peek under the foil), 30–35 minutes. Increase oven temperature to 425°. Uncover stuffing and continue to bake until top is golden brown and crisp, 20–25 minutes longer. Let sit 10 minutes. Top stuffing with more parsley just before serving.

BITTER GREENS WITH CRANBERRY DRESSING 6 S E RV I N G S

The key here is to use wholeberry cranberry sauce, not the smooth jellied stuff, so it can easily incorporate into the oil and lemon juice to create a tangy dressing. 3 Tbsp. raw sugar 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more 1 cup coarsely chopped pecans 1 14-oz. can whole-berry cranberry sauce Zest and juice of 1 lemon

¼ tsp. freshly grated nutmeg 12 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided ¼ cup finely chopped parsley 2 Tbsp. finely chopped mint 3 Tbsp. white wine vinegar Freshly ground black pepper 6 heads of green and/or red endive, quartered 2 heads of frisée, torn or cut into size of quartered endive 4 oz. Manchego cheese, shaved Preheat oven to 350°. Mix raw sugar, maple syrup, and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt in a bowl. Add pecans and toss to coat. Spread pecans out on a parchmentlined rimmed baking sheet and bake until sugar is bubbling, 6–8 minutes, then continue to bake 3 minutes longer to allow sugar to caramelize. Let cool; break into small pieces. Whisk cranberry sauce, lemon zest, lemon juice, nutmeg, and 5 Tbsp. oil in a small bowl to combine; season cranberry dressing with salt. Whisk parsley, mint, vinegar, and remaining 7 Tbsp. oil in a large bowl to combine; season herby dressing with salt and pepper. Add endive and frisée to bowl and toss to coat. Arrange salad on a platter and drizzle some cranberry dressing over. Top with Manchego cheese and candied pecan pieces. Serve with remaining cranberry dressing alongside.

CORN AND HOMINY PUDDING FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY SOPHIE LENG.

8 – 12 S E RV I N G S

Hominy adds an extra dimension of flavor to this fresh-cornbased casserole that can otherwise verge on sweet. Cooking it along with the corn and aromatics further intensifies its flavor. 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, plus more for pan 2 bunches scallions 3 poblano chiles, seeds removed, finely chopped 2 jalapeños, seeds removed, finely chopped Kosher salt 1½ cups canned or cooked hominy, drained 1½ cups fresh or frozen corn kernels

Freshly ground black pepper large eggs, beaten to blend cups heavy cream cups sour cream cups grated Cotija cheese or finely grated Parmesan, divided

Morton kosher salt, plus more 2 oz. Parmesan, finely grated, plus more for serving 2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper, plus more 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided

Preheat oven to 325°. Butter a shallow 3-qt. baking dish. Remove green parts from scallions and thinly slice; set aside for serving. Thinly slice remaining white parts. Heat remaining 6 Tbsp. butter in a large skillet over medium. As soon as butter stops foaming, add white parts of scallions, poblano chiles, and jalapeños and season with salt. Cook, stirring often, until very soft and liquid is almost completely evaporated, 10–12 minutes. Add hominy and corn to pan, season with salt and pepper, and cook until mixture is heated through and dry, about 4 minutes. Transfer vegetable mixture to a shallow bowl or rimmed baking sheet and let cool. (It doesn’t have to be room temperature; it just shouldn’t be so hot that it will cook the eggs in the custard.) Combine eggs, cream, sour cream, and 1 cup grated Cotija cheese in a large bowl; season with salt and pepper and whisk vigorously until mixture is smooth and foamy. Add hominy mixture and stir to combine; scrape into prepared baking dish. Bake pudding until mostly set but still a bit wet and jiggly in the center, 35–45 minutes; remove from oven. Heat broiler. Sprinkle remaining ½ cup grated Cotija cheese over pudding and broil until completely set and browned in spots, about 2 minutes. Let cool 15 minutes, then top with reserved scallion greens and season with more pepper. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Place potatoes in a large pot and pour in water to cover by 2"; season generously with salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat and simmer gently until potatoes are tender on the outside but still very firm in the center, 10–12 minutes. Drain potatoes; transfer to a rimmed baking sheet and chill until cool, at least 1 hour. (Fully cooling the potatoes prevents them from getting gummy.) Grate potatoes on the large holes of a box grater or with a food processor fitted with the grater attachment. (Alternatively, you can use a mandoline fitted with a julienne slicer to create ₁⁄₁₆" matchsticks.) Transfer grated potatoes to a large bowl and toss with 2 oz. grated Parmesan, 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 2 tsp. pepper. Heat 3 Tbsp. oil in a medium nonstick or cast-iron skillet over medium. Add potato mixture and, using a heatproof rubber spatula, spread out in an even layer, pressing down on to ensure potatoes make good contact with pan. Cook, occasionally pressing down on potatoes and running spatula around edges and bottom of pan to prevent sticking, until underside is evenly golden brown and crisp, 7–9 minutes. Remove from heat. Set a large plate upside down over pan. In one swift and confident motion, flip pan and plate to invert rösti onto plate. Set pan back over medium heat, add remaining 1 Tbsp. oil, and carefully slide in rösti, crispy side up. Using spatula, tuck edges into pan to create a neat disk. Cook until second side is golden brown, 5–7 minutes. Run spatula around edges of rösti and give pan a shake until you can feel rösti freely move around in pan. Carefully slide rösti onto a platter and top with more Parmesan and pepper. Slice into wedges to serve. D O A H E A D : Potatoes can be boiled 1 day ahead. Let cool; cover and chill. Rösti (without additional cheese) can be made 3 hours ahead; store uncovered at room temperature. Reheat in a 300° oven 10 minutes before serving.

4 2 1½ 1½

CACIO E PEPE RÖSTI 6 – 8 S E RV I N G S

This crisp parm-andpepper-flecked potato pancake is for those who prefer hash over mash. The potatoes can be parboiled a day ahead, and using cooked potatoes means you can skip the tedious step of salting and squeezing raw potatoes. 3 lb. russet potatoes (about 12 medium), peeled 1½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1 tsp.

Fashion designer and recipe developer Peter Som on his ultimate Thanksgiving menu, featuring char siu Wellington, brussels sprouts roasted in brown butter and gochujang, and more comfort dishes

“Let’s Make What We Adore” photographs by JENNY HUANG

CHAR SIU WELLINGTON P. 78

If you don’t count last year, I’ve always hosted Thanksgiving at my place in the West Village. It’s one of my most favorite holidays. I love renting long tables and arranging flowers, squeezing 25 people into my apartment and cooking everything from scratch. It’s very come one, come all. That’s just how it was in my family when I was growing up in San Francisco. We’d have anyone who was free over: assorted aunties and uncles, neighbors, a family friend’s son or daughter in the States for college. I’m Chinese American, so our Thanksgiving table was always a mash-up of those cultures. We had the turkey, the sweet potatoes with marshmallows on top, and then steamed gai lan or bok choy and my grandmother’s no mai fan—sticky rice studded with lap cheong. It was so focused on what, to me, cooking is all about: bringing people together. Last Thanksgiving I celebrated with just my boyfriend and two friends, our little pod. Since we were in the middle of the pandemic, we thought, Let’s make what we adore. I cooked char siu, which is a Chinese barbecue pork that’s sweet, sticky, tender, and delicious, and my version of no mai fan. This year I’m keeping that ethos but doing things a little differently: I’m going all in. I’m making char siu but rolling it up with shiitake duxelles and turning it into Wellington. I’m indulging in the vegetables, with a sweet potato tian speckled with five-spice, roasted brussels sprouts tossed in a flavor bomb of gochujang and brown butter, and a super-crunchy Asian pear and shaved cauliflower salad. The no mai fan is a must, and to finish I’ve got a bread pudding with a milk-tea-flavored custard as a nod to my family’s Hong Kong history. Adding boba to milk tea is de rigueur these days, but I thought in this case it might be gilding the lily too much. No matter how topsy-turvy the world can feel, these are the dishes that make me smile.

Pantry Tour Six ingredients crucial to Som’s menu

ASIAN PEAR SALAD WITH PEANUT-LIME DRESSING 8 S E RV I N G S

Asian pears are crisp even when ripe and have a sweet-tart flavor with lovely floral notes. When Som was growing up, they were a treat usually found in Chinatown (and instantly recognizable by their little foam-mesh protective sweaters) but now are more widely available. If you can’t find them, Bosc pears are a good substitute. PEANUTS

Simply Organic Five Spice Made of fennel seeds, cinnamon, cloves, star anise, and Sichuan peppercorns, this spice is infinitely versatile. It brings warmth to whatever I’m making— banana bread, meatballs, fruit crumbles, brownies. I like to say it’s pumpkin spice’s bolder cousin. $5 for 2-oz. jar; iherb.com

Lee Kum Kee Hoisin A base of fermented soybean paste gives this rich, glossy sauce an umami punch. Hoisin is often relied on as a dipping sauce or as a glaze, but I also add it to braised dishes like fall-aparttender short ribs or toss it with butter and pasta for a fast and easy weeknight dinner. $6 for 20-oz. bottle; amazon.com

1 2 1 ½

Tbsp. unsalted butter Tbsp. fresh orange juice tsp. five-spice powder tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt ½ tsp. sugar ½ cup unsalted dry-roasted peanuts D R E SS I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

½ ½ ⅓ 2 1 1 1

Lee Kum Kee Premium Dark Soy

Kam Yen Jan Lap Cheong

Dark soy is thicker—and yes, darker—than the usual light soy sauce with which most of us are familiar. It’s also slightly sweeter and lends a lovely amber color to anything, like rice and chicken. $3 for 500-ml bottle; umamicart.com

This Cantonese cured pork sausage has a distinctive sweet and savory taste. For me it’s a must-have in fried rice and no mai fan, but I like to throw it into braises and anything else that needs an extra bump of flavor. $6 for eight sausages; yamibuy.com

1 2 1

cup creamy peanut butter cup grapeseed oil or vegetable oil cup fresh lime juice (about 3 limes) Tbsp. honey Tbsp. plus 1 tsp. soy sauce Tbsp. unseasoned rice vinegar Kosher salt large head of cauliflower (about 2½ lb.) large Asian pear, thinly sliced cups arugula cup (packed) cilantro leaves with tender stems

Melt butter with orange juice, five-spice powder, salt, and sugar in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add peanuts and cook, stirring, until peanuts darken and orange juice mixture reduces to a glaze, 5–7 minutes. Scrape peanuts onto a plate; let cool. D O A H E A D : Peanuts can be prepared 3 days ahead. Let cool; store airtight at room temperature. PEANUTS

Whisk peanut butter, oil, lime juice, honey, soy sauce, and vinegar in a large bowl until smooth. Season dressing with salt. Cut cauliflower into quarters through stem; trim core. Thinly slice on a mandoline or with a sharp knife; coarsely chop any stray florets. Add cauliflower, Asian pear, arugula, cilantro, and half of peanuts to dressing and toss to coat. Divide salad among plates or arrange on a platter and top with remaining peanuts.

Koda Farms Sweet Rice Also known as sticky rice or glutinous rice, this round-grain rice becomes sticky when cooked and is widely used in Chinese cooking (and many other Asian cuisines too). I grew up eating it in my grandmother’s no mai fan, but it’s also great for Thai-inspired coconut sticky rice with mango. $12 for 5-lb. bag; sayweee.com

Mother-in-Law’s Gochujang I didn’t grow up with gochujang, but now I reach for the Korean fermented chili paste whenever I’m looking for a hit of complex heat. I enjoy it mixed with Kewpie mayo for a quick dipping sauce or combined with brown butter for roasted vegetables. $12 for 10-oz. jar; amazon.com

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ROSE WONG

D R E SS I N G A N D ASS E M B LY

C l o c k w i s e F ro m To p L e f t : SWEE T POTATO T I A N P. 77 / AS I A N PEAR SALAD WITH PEANUT-LIME D R E S S I N G P. 74 / ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH GOCHUJANG BROWN B U T T E R P. 78 / DUTCH OVEN NO MAI FA N P. 78

MILK TEA BREAD PUDDING WITH CRÈME ANGLAISE P. 79

SWEET POTATO TIAN 8 S E RV I N G S

Stacking thinly sliced rounds of sweet potato so they stand upright on their sides exposes their edges to the heat of the oven, allowing them to become crispy and intensely flavored. If you can’t find dark soy sauce, you can substitute 2 Tbsp. regular soy sauce plus ¼ tsp. granulated sugar.

PLATES: COURTESY OF LOST QUARRY. NAPKIN: COURTESY OF LOYALE STUDIO. CUTTING BOARD: COURTESY OF BOWEN LIU STUDIO. BOWLS: PHOTOGRAPH BY MISCHELLE MOY. GLASS: COURTESY OF NUDE GLASS.

6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, plus more for pan 3 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 1" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated 1 Tbsp. finely grated orange zest ¼ cup fresh orange juice (about 1 orange) ¼ cup low-sodium vegetable broth ¼ cup light brown sugar 2 Tbsp. dark soy sauce 1 Tbsp. white miso 2 tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt

2 tsp. five-spice powder ½ tsp. freshly ground black pepper 1 Tbsp. thyme leaves, plus more for serving 4 lb. medium sweet potatoes, unpeeled, sliced ⅛" thick Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 350°. Butter a 10" cast-iron skillet or a 2½-qt. shallow round or oval baking dish. Melt 6 Tbsp. butter in a small saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring often, until butter foams, then browns (do not burn) and smells nutty, 5–8 minutes. Remove saucepan from heat and whisk in garlic, ginger, orange zest, orange juice, broth, brown sugar, soy sauce, miso, salt, five-spice powder, pepper, and 1 Tbsp. thyme. Combine sweet potatoes and brown butter mixture in a large bowl and toss gently until sweet potatoes are thoroughly coated.

Stack sweet potato slices upright on their edges in vertical rows along perimeter of skillet, following the curve of the pan. Arrange more vertical rows of sweet potatoes down center of skillet to cover entire pan. Be sure to pack sweet potatoes tightly and fill in any gaps with smaller sweet potato slices. Pour any remaining brown butter from bowl over sweet potatoes, then cover skillet tightly with foil. Bake sweet potatoes until fork-tender, 50–60 minutes. Carefully remove foil and increase oven temperature to 425°. Continue to bake until tops of sweet potatoes are deep golden brown, 30–40 minutes longer. Scatter more thyme over tian and let cool slightly before serving. D O A H E A D : Tian can be baked 1 day ahead. Let cool; cover tightly with foil and chill. Reheat, loosely covered with foil, in a 350° oven until heated through, 40–45 minutes.

Som’s Go-to Entertaining Gear How the fashion designer sets his table

Lost Quarry Ribbed Plates My friend Doris Josovitz started this ceramics studio a few years ago. I love the feel and the nuanced finish to her pieces. Starting at $35; lost-quarry.com

Loyale Grey Stripe Linen Napkin

Bowen Liu Saddle Cutting/Serving Board

I’m into these Japanese cotton napkins for many reasons, but the main two are because they’re from an AAPI women-owned company and they’re made in my hometown, San Francisco. $24 each; loyalestudio.com

There is no chicer way to serve charcuterie than on these crisplooking boards. $265; bowenliustudio.com

Wing on Wo & Co. Dragon Bowls

Nude Jour Red Wine Glasses

These are perfect for anything, from rice to cereal, and the tonal dragon motif goes with any table setting. Wing on Wo & Co. has been a fixture in NYC’s Chinatown since the 1890s! $25 each; wingonwoand.co

These wine glasses add a touch of elegant whimsy to the dining table. They’re always a conversation starter. $75 for two; us.nudeglass.com

ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS WITH GOCHUJANG BROWN BUTTER 8 S E RV I N G S

Som didn’t grow up with spicy food. Cantonese dishes don’t have the heat of Sichuan or Hunan cooking, and it was only many years later, after he moved to New York, that he came to appreciate the wide range of Asian cuisines that balance heat and sweet. The combination of gochujang and brown butter creates that ideal union. If you can’t find gochujang, Som suggests using 2–3 Tbsp. Sriracha instead. 3 lb. brussels sprouts, trimmed, halved if large 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ½ cup coarsely chopped walnuts (optional) 6 Tbsp. unsalted butter ⅓ cup gochujang (Korean hot pepper paste) 2 Tbsp. pure maple syrup 3 scallions, thinly sliced, divided ½ lemon Flaky sea salt Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and set a rimmed baking sheet on each; preheat oven to 500°. Toss brussels sprouts with oil in a large bowl to coat; season with kosher salt and pepper. Carefully (baking sheets will be hot!) divide brussels sprouts between baking sheets and spread out in a single layer; reserve bowl. Roast, rotating baking sheets top to bottom and front to back halfway through, until brussels sprouts are charred in spots and tender, 16–18 minutes. Meanwhile, if using walnuts, toast in a dry medium skillet over medium heat, tossing often, until fragrant and slightly darkened, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a small bowl and let cool. Cook butter in a small saucepan over medium-low heat, swirling occasionally, until milk solids are a deep amber color and butter smells very nutty, 5–8 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in gochujang and maple syrup. Season with kosher salt and pepper. Combine brussels sprouts, half of walnuts, and half of scallions in reserved bowl; add brown butter mixture and toss to coat. Transfer to a platter and scatter remaining walnuts and scallions over. Finely grate lemon zest on top; sprinkle with sea salt. 78

DUTCH OVEN NO MAI FAN

CHAR SIU WELLINGTON

8 S E RV I N G S

No mai fan—glutinous rice studded with lap cheong (Chinese sausage), mushrooms, and other savory bits—was a childhood favorite of Som’s. If you can’t find glutinous rice (also known as sweet rice or sticky rice), use all jasmine rice and add a few extra tablespoons of broth for a slightly stickier consistency. After cooking, let the rice sit, covered, for 10–15 minutes (it will be a fair approximation, but it’s well worth seeking out glutinous rice for this recipe). 1½ 1½ 3 4 3 4 1 ¼

2 3 1 ½ ½

cups glutinous rice cups jasmine rice large shallots, thinly sliced garlic cloves, finely chopped Tbsp. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil lap cheong (Chinese sausage), chopped lb. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed, finely chopped cup dark soy sauce or 3 Tbsp. regular soy sauce plus ½ tsp. sugar Tbsp. oyster sauce cups low-sodium chicken broth Kosher salt cup thawed frozen peas cup (packed) cilantro leaves with tender stems, plus more cup sliced scallions, plus more

Rinse glutinous rice and jasmine rice in several changes of cold water in a medium bowl until water runs clear. Drain well and set aside. Combine shallots, garlic, and oil in a small Dutch oven or large saucepan. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until shallots are tender and beginning to turn golden brown around edges, about 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium and add lap cheong and mushrooms. Cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms are browned in spots, about 3 minutes. Stir in dark soy sauce, oyster sauce, and reserved rice. Pour in broth and season with salt; stir to combine. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat to low. Cover and cook until rice is tender, 20–25 minutes. Remove pot from heat and stir in peas, ½ cup cilantro, and ½ cup scallions. Transfer rice to a platter and top with more cilantro and scallions.

For this Thanksgiving centerpiece Som combined the flavors of very Cantonese char siu pork with those of very British beef Wellington. The dish features pork loin marinated in a mixture of hoisin, honey, Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine), and five-spice powder and roasted inside an oldschool puff pastry crust. The marinade is then used to create a silky umami-rich gravy that comes together in a jiff. There are quite a few steps to this recipe, but fortunately much of it can be prepared in advance, which will make day-of cooking a snap. MARINADE

5 ½ ½ ¼ ¼ ¼ 2 2 2 1 ½ 1

garlic cloves, thinly sliced cup hoisin sauce cup light brown sugar cup honey cup Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine) or medium-dry sherry cup soy sauce tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt tsp. five-spice powder tsp. toasted sesame oil tsp. freshly ground white or black pepper tsp. red food coloring (optional) 3¾–4-lb. boneless pork loin DUXELLES

1 large shallot, coarsely chopped 3 garlic cloves 1 lb. shiitake mushrooms, stems removed ½ cup (packed) cilantro leaves with tender stems 1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil or vegetable oil ½ cup Shaoxing wine (Chinese rice wine) or medium-dry sherry Kosher salt, freshly ground pepper ASS E M B LY

2 Tbsp. all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting 2 sheets frozen puff pastry (two 14-oz. packages or one 17.3-oz. package), thawed 8 oz. prosciutto, thinly sliced 1 large egg, beaten to blend Flaky sea salt 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter 1 cup low-sodium chicken broth Cilantro leaves with tender stems (for serving)

Combine garlic, hoisin, brown sugar, honey, wine, soy sauce, salt, five-spice powder, oil, pepper, and food coloring (if using) in a large baking dish or 2-gal. resealable plastic freezer bag. Add pork loin to marinade and turn to coat. Cover baking dish with plastic wrap or seal bag. Chill, turning loin a few times, at least 4 hours and up to 12 hours. MARINADE

Working in 2 batches, pulse shallot, garlic, mushrooms, and cilantro in a food processor just until finely chopped (do not overprocess). Heat oil in a large skillet over medium. Cook mushroom mixture, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms have started to brown and pan is almost dry, 5–7 minutes. Pour in wine and reduce heat to low. Cook, stirring once or twice, until pan is dry, 10–15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer duxelles to a medium bowl and chill until cold, at least 30 minutes. D O A H E A D : Duxelles can be made 2 days ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; cover and chill. DUXELLES

Remove loin from fridge and let sit at room temperature 1 hour. Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 400°. Remove loin from marinade and pat dry with paper towels. Strain marinade through a finemesh sieve into a small bowl and chill until ready to use. Place loin, fat side up, on a foil-lined rimmed baking sheet and roast 30 minutes. Let cool. If loin is tied, remove twine. Dust a work surface lightly with flour and unfold both sheets of puff pastry on surface. Arrange sheets side by side, with long sides facing you and short sides overlapping slightly. Press short sides together with your fingers or a rolling pin to seal and form one long rectangle. Dust pastry with flour, then roll out to large enough to encase loin. Spread duxelles over center of pastry to create a rectangle about the length of loin, leaving a 1" border at top and bottom. Lay prosciutto slices, overlapping slightly, across duxelles. Place loin on top of prosciutto. Starting with edge closest to you, roll up pastry, letting top and bottom edges overlap slightly; trim any excess, then pinch edges together to seal. Turn Wellington seam side down and twist ends to seal.

FOOD STYLING BY SUSIE THEODOROU. PROP STYLING BY MARTHA BERNABE.

ASS E M B LY

Trim any excess pastry from sides, but make sure loin is completely encased in pastry. Transfer Wellington to a rimmed baking sheet and chill until pastry is firm, about 1 hour. Preheat oven to 400°. Lightly brush pastry all over with egg. Using a sharp paring knife, cut 3 diagonal slits in pastry across top of Wellington to let steam escape (do not cut all the way down into the meat). Sprinkle Wellington with sea salt. Bake Wellington until pastry is deep golden brown all over and an instantread thermometer inserted into the center registers 145° (the temperature will climb as Wellington rests), 30–40 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack set inside a rimmed baking sheet and let rest 15 minutes. Meanwhile, melt butter in a medium skillet over medium heat. Whisk in 2 Tbsp. flour and cook until mixture is golden brown, about 2 minutes. Pour in broth and cook, whisking often, until thickened, about 3 minutes. Add reserved marinade and reduce heat to medium-low. Simmer, whisking occasionally, until gravy is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Transfer Wellington to a platter and arrange cilantro around. Cut into thick slices and serve with gravy alongside for pouring over. D O A H E A D : Wellington can be assembled 1 day ahead; cover with foil and chill. Let sit at room temperature 30–40 minutes before baking. MILK TEA BREAD PUDDING WITH CRÈME ANGLAISE 8 S E RV I N G S

Milk tea is a delicious result of Hong Kong’s melting pot history. Chinese tea drinking rarely involves dairy, but the British influence in Hong Kong created what Som describes as a magical elixir made by combining strong black tea and sweetened condensed milk. Sweet, bitter, creamy, and so, so good, milk tea is very drinkable on its own and is an irresistible base for this bread pudding. Warmed vanilla ice cream makes for a lightning-fast, no-stress crème anglaise. 1 1-lb. brioche loaf, torn into large irregular pieces 1 14-oz. can sweetened condensed milk

2½ cups half-and-half 2 Tbsp. granulated sugar 1 tsp. Diamond Crystal or ½ tsp. Morton kosher salt 1 tsp. vanilla extract 8 black tea bags (such as English breakfast) 4 large egg yolks 1 large egg Unsalted butter (for pan) ¾ cup golden raisins 1 pint vanilla bean ice cream or gelato Powdered sugar (for dusting) 1 20-oz. can lychees, drained, halved (optional) Place a rack in middle of oven; preheat to 300°. Spread out brioche on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake, tossing halfway through and reducing oven temperature if browning too fast, until brioche is very dry and lightly toasted, 25–35 minutes. Let cool. Meanwhile, bring condensed milk and half-and-half to a bare simmer in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat and whisk in granulated sugar, salt, and vanilla until sugar is dissolved. Add tea bags and let sit 25 minutes. Remove tea bags from pan, wringing them out over pan; discard tea bags. Whisk egg yolks and egg into tea mixture until incorporated. Increase oven temperature to 350°. Butter a 13x9" baking dish. Arrange brioche in an even layer in baking dish and scatter raisins on top. Pour custard mixture over; toss brioche to coat, then press down lightly to partially submerge. Let sit 20 minutes to give brioche time to soak up custard. Bake bread pudding until golden brown and custard is puffed and just set (it should barely jiggle when gently shaken), 35–40 minutes. Let cool 20 minutes before serving. Meanwhile, heat ice cream in a small saucepan over low heat, stirring occasionally, until melted and just warmed through (do not simmer), 5–8 minutes. Transfer crème anglaise to a small pitcher or bowl. Dust bread pudding with powdered sugar, then cut into squares and divide among plates. Drizzle crème anglaise over and arrange lychees around if desired. Serve remaining crème anglaise alongside. 79

S T E P-BYSTEPS

TIPS & TRICKS

Almost everything you need to know (and nothing you don ’t)

A Spud’s Life When the temperature starts to dip and the sweaters come out of the closet, it’s the humble potato’s time to shine by A M I E L S TA N E K

’Tater

Talk

ILLUSTRATIONS BY TIM LAHAN

Solanum tuberosum: the tuber that changed the world. Believed to have been domesticated by the Indigenous peoples of the Andes and brought across the Atlantic by Spanish colonizers in the 16th century, many argue that the potato gave rise to modern agriculture in Europe. Today it’s the world’s fifth-most important staple crop. It’s by far America’s most consumed produce item—we eat nearly 50 pounds per person each year. (Tomatoes take the number two spot because: ketchup.) P H OTO G R A P H S BY I S A Z A PATA

N O V E M B E R 2 0 21 – 8 1

Basically

Which to Use for What Broadly speaking, your local grocery store is likely to have a few main types of potatoes on offer, each suited to different preparations, so knowing the difference between them is crucial.

… B U T W A I T, T H E R E ’S M O R E The selection at the supermarket is just a tiny sampling of the wide world of spuds; indeed, Peru’s International Potato Center has preserved close to 5,000 unique varieties. The fall farmers market can be a great place to try out delicious heirloom or idiosyncratic varieties that you’re less likely to find in stores, like creamy Russian Bananas, adorable pink Red Thumbs, or purple-fleshed Magic Mollys. And if you’re not sure how to prepare them, just ask whoever’s selling them for their favorite method.

F LO U RY / S TA R C H Y

Relatively low in moisture and high in starch, with rough skins, types like russets cook up light and fluffy, which makes them ideal for a baked potato or creamy mash. These potatoes also lend themselves well to fried applications like crispy french fries and potato pancakes.

WA X Y

These tend to have thinner skins and flesh that’s moister and lower in starch. Red Bliss, new potatoes, fingerlings, and a lot of the smaller, cuter varieties fit into this category. They hold their shape well when cooked, so they’re perfect for things like roasting, potato salad, gratins, and good old boiledand-buttered spuds.

ALL-PURPOSE

Two words: Yukon Gold. This butteryhued variety and other floury-waxy hybrids are the Goldilocks of potatoes—not too crumbly, not too dense, and super versatile. Boil them. Mash them. Roast them. You name it, these potatoes can do it. 8 2 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

According to the Environmental Working Group, potatoes retain fairly high levels of pesticides relative to other kinds of produce, so it’s best to shell out the extra buck for organic if you can.

Basically

Where to Put ’Em In an ideal world potatoes would be stored in a dark, well-ventilated, cool-but-notcold (42°–55°F), and highhumidity (around 95%) environment to maximize their longevity. Considering that few regular people can replicate these kinds of conditions, it’s best to just buy potatoes a few days before you’re going to use them and keep them somewhere that ticks as many of the above boxes as possible—a paper bag in a dark pantry is a very decent option. Whatever you do, don’t keep them anywhere near your onions, which release gases that encourage the tubers to sprout.

DO THE MASH!

GUTTER

What’s the best tool for making mashed potatoes? Well, that depends on a few things. Below, our recommendations RICER

FOOD MILL

Basically a big garlic press, this gadget smooshes cooked potatoes through a grate to produce uniformly broken-down bits without overworking them. Makes for a silky-smooth purée and doesn’t take up too much space, but is a singlepurpose kitchen tool, which is a drag.

This old-school contraption breaks down potatoes with efficiency similar to a ricer’s, yielding an equally smooth mash, but can also be used to make jam, tomato sauce, and all kinds of things. The downside? It has a bunch of parts, takes up more space, and is annoying to clean.

POTATO MASHER

FOOD PROCESSOR/STAND MIXER

We have a lot of love for a good oldfashioned potato masher—lo-fi, affordable, and easy to store—provided you don’t mind a mash with a few little lumps here and there. (Just call ’em rustic.)

Don’t! Never, under any circumstances, do you want to make mashed potatoes with either of these devices, which will overwork potatoes and turn them into a gummy, gluey mess. Trust us on this one. N O V E M B E R 2 0 21 – 8 3

Basically

T H E F R E E Z E R A I S L E I S YO U R F R I E N D Achieving crispy potato greatness at home takes a bit of doing. Which is why we love the many glorious packaged potato products on offer in our supermarket’s freezer aisle. Frozen fries, potato wedges, and tater tots have all been precooked before freezing, so they’re ready to be roasted or fried to crunchy perfection straight out of the bag.

Okay, Can You Eat Them If… We’ve all been there: The potatoes in your pantry you were counting on using for dinner are, upon further inspection, looking a little bit off. Do you really need to go back to the store for new ones? Well, that depends. •What if they’re green? Potatoes that have been exposed to light will begin to produce chlorophyll (green, harmless) as well as a glycoalkaloid called solanine (bitter, toxic in large quantities). If the green color on your taters is pale and mostly skindeep, peel them well to remove the green parts and sally forth. But if the green hue goes deeper, you’re better off pitching them.

Glam up your tots with a sweetspicy glaze; go to bonappetit.com /honey-chile -tater tots for the recipe.

7 More Fat, More Salt Restaurant potatoes taste so good because they’ve added more salt and fat than you would think to use. Potatoes are starchy, so a heavy hand is necessary. For reference, our favorite mash recipe (bonappetit.com/ultra-creamy-mashed-potatoes) calls for:

1 tsp.

S A LT

8 4 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

½ cup

½ stick

DAIRY + BUT T ER

per

1 lb.

SPUDS

•They’ve got dark spots? If you peel potatoes and find a few dark or discolored spots on the flesh, don’t sweat it—this is likely the result of bruising during transport or concentrations of natural sugars. Just cut those little spots out (they’re not exactly cute) and proceed.

FOOD STYLING BY MICAH MORTON

•They’re sprouting? Ditto for sprouts: They contain compounds that taste bitter and, if consumed in quantity, can be toxic. If you’ve got otherwise goodlooking potatoes that have a few small sprouts, you can remove them and go about your business. But if those spuds look like they’ve grown arms and legs and are ready to fight, it’s probably best to get new ones.

recipe index

COOK THE COVER

Sheet-Pan Turkey and Gravy p. 47 BEVERAGE

Martini p. 57 BREAD

Stuffing Biscuits p. 47 SALAD

Asian Pear Salad With Peanut-Lime Dressing p. 74 Bitter Greens With Cranberry Dressing p. 68

POULTRY

Kale Salad With Pecan Vinaigrette p. 46 Radicchio, Bean, and Feta Salad p. 18

Chicken Mole Enchiladas p. 37 Sheet-Pan Turkey and Gravy p. 47

MAIN COURSES

VEGE TARIAN

SEAFOOD

Shrimp and Salami Pasta p. 20 MEAT

Char Siu Wellington p. 78 Pork Chop Cacciatore p. 24 Shrimp and Salami Pasta p. 20

Dal Palak p. 26 Radicchio, Bean, and Feta Salad p. 18

VEGETABLES, SIDE DISHES

Asian Pear Salad With Peanut-Lime Dressing p. 74 Bitter Greens With Cranberry Dressing p. 68

Cacio e Pepe Rösti p. 69 Chorizo and Calabrian Chile Stuffing p. 68 Corn and Hominy Pudding p. 69 Dutch Oven No Mai Fan p. 78 Garlic-Miso Butter Mashed Potatoes p. 68 Green Beans and Mushrooms With Crispy Shallots p. 46 Kale Salad With Pecan Vinaigrette p. 46

Roasted Brussels Sprouts With Gochujang Brown Butter p. 78 Stuffing Biscuits p. 47 Sweet Potato Tian p. 77 Twice-Roasted Squash With Vanilla, Maple, and Chile p. 46 CONDIMENT

Cranberry and Golden Raisin Relish p. 46

DESSERTS

Apple-Rose Pie p. 54 Lemon-Lavender Crinkles p. 54 Milk Tea Bread Pudding With Crème Anglaise p. 79 Mini Baked Alaskas p. 51 Pineapple UpsideDown Cake p. 55 Sweet Potato Loaf Cake With Dark Chocolate Ganache p. 55

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8 6 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

PHOTOGRAPH BY CHRISTOPHER TESTANI. FOOD STYLING BY ALI NARDI. PROP STYLING BY ALEX BRANNIAN.

Striking a pose before the big carving. P. 47

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Issa Rae’s Dream Dinner Party The Insecure cocreator and star is taking some musical superstars to Senegal

Want to serve on a silver platter, just like Issa? Tr y the vintage tea trays from Hester & Cook ($95; food52.com).

A F T E R F O U R acclaimed seasons, Insecure, the groundbreaking hit from Issa Rae, is coming to an end (catch the fifth and final season premiere on October 24). We’re sad to see it go, but maybe that will give Rae time to host her fantasy dinner party, with platters of food, plenty of drinks, and a collection of legendary musicians. — D A W N D A V I S

Which three people would you invite to your dream dinner party?

I’m obsessed with musical artistry, so I would choose Frank Ocean, Solange, and Prince. I feel they would have a good time together. The only insecurity I have is what I would bring to the table. I’m sure you’d bring a lot! Are you hoping they’d introduce you to new musicians?

More than that. I get a lot 8 8 – N O V E M B E R 2 0 21

of creative ideas from music. Listening to a song can inspire a whole concept for a television show or movie. What do you cook?

I went back and forth. Do I offer sushi, omakase, or Senegalese food? With Senegalese culture, we have such a great way of eating, with big platters built for communion, discussion, and debates. If I can’t bring anything musically, then the hosting has to be on point. What kind of Senegalese food would you serve?

We have great appetizers. I love pastels. They’re like empanadas or Jamaican patties, dumplings stuffed with fish or beef. They’re delicious: fried or baked, with a spicy tomato-onion sauce for dipping. My mom used to make them on Culture Day at school.

And the main course?

Libations of what sort?

Mafé, which can be made with beef or lamb and has a peanut sauce. It’s delicious. I love peanut butter with everything. And another favorite dish, soupou kandja, is a blend between my two cultures. My mother, who is from Louisiana, makes gumbo. Soupou kandja is kind of a Senegalese gumbo.

Bissap, which is a sweetened hibiscus drink, with gin mixed in, garnished with mint. You can swap in your drink of choice. I mostly drink vodka, so…Vodssap? I don’t know, I’ll work on a name.

Where are you serving this food?

Maybe at a place like Africa Kine in New York, or we could go to Senegal and do it beachside. I’d do a version of what they do at a place in Senegal called Les Almadies, which is by the beach, has a sea breeze, and a cabanaesque setting with modest tablecloths and big silver and gold platters of food. We’ll eat with our hands; we’ll eat traditionally; and of course we’ll have libations.

What do you talk about?

I would ask which song of the other guests’ they wish they had made. What song of theirs do you wish you had made?

Prince’s “The Beautiful Ones,” Solange’s “Don’t Touch My Hair,” and Frank Ocean’s “Pyramids.” It’s the last season of the pioneering show Insecure. Which character from the show gets invited to your party?

Molly. Without a doubt. Because Molly can just turn it on. And she can complement my awkwardness just like she does for Issa on the show. Not that I’m mad awkward….

I L LU ST R AT I O N BY L I A N A J E G E R S