SONDER // Edition 2 by SONDER

SONDER

Edition 2

LIFE . TRAVEL . ADVENTURE

WILD WESTERN ROAD TRIP

SONDER

T R AV E L M AGA Z I N E

L E T T E R F ROM T H E E D I TO R

EDITOR IN CHIEF

Elisa Vandergriff WRITERS

Elise Askonas Elisa Vandergriff Caroline Hartley Logan Craig Marilyne Chabanis Zoë Hester Ilona Ivleff Katie Vandergriff Morgane Turqui PHOTOGR APHERS

Elise Askonas Elisa Vandergriff Caroline Hartley Marilyne Chabanis Ilona Ivleff Houston Vandergriff D E S I G N & I L L U S T R AT I O N S

Elisa Vandergriff

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SONDER

Dearest readers, I am so excited to present to you the Second Edition of Sonder Travel Magazine. Jack Kerouac once said, “Live, travel, adventure, bless, and don’t be sorry.” This is a mantra I aspire to live by and one which resonated with me as I approached the formative stages of my senior honors thesis in college. I wanted to find a way to share the opportunities I have had to live, travel, and adventure and be able to bless others with resources and inspiration to do the same. Thus, Sonder was born. Sonder is a proudly all-female produced magazine. In a world that is still so threatening to women, I feel compelled to encourage and empower other girls by sharing stories from women who have traveled around the world, sometimes even doing it alone. When a person is totally immersed in a new culture, it becomes less about seeing all the sights and more about experiencing every single unique moment as it happens and re-discovering oneself outside of familiarity. As you journey through this publication, I hope that you find adventure on every page.

LIFE . TRAVEL . ADVENTURE

Cheers, Elisa Vandergriff, Editor in Chief

Edition 2

sondertravelmag@gmail.com

WILD WESTERN ROAD TRIP

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CONTE NT

SHERBET SKIES,

HOW TO MASTER

GUIDE TO QUEBEC

OREGON COAST

GROUP TRAVEL

CITY

THE WORLD NEEDS

WILD WESTERN

HOW TO AFFORD

DREAMERS

ROAD TRIP

WORLD TRAVEL

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14 14 UNUSUAL

WINDOW SEAT

THINGS TO PACK

A YEAR IN

5 ZERO WASTE

AUSTRALIA

TRAVEL ESSENTIALS

THE GLOBETROTTING

TOP 5 CITIES IN

TRAVEL

PHOTOGRAPHER

ITALY

JOURNALING

THE ONES YOU LOVE?

ISN’T HOME WITH

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S H E R B E T S K I E S , O R E G O N C OA S T Story & Photography by Elise Askonas

’ve found that many of the most meaningful moments I’ve experienced while traveling are often at the most unexpected times. I’ve had particularly good opportunities to discover this over the last four months since I returned from a ten week long solo road trip. I always envisioned myself taking a great road trip at some point in my college years, but I’d always imagined that it’d be with the perfect travel buddy. Instead, as I drove on highway 40 from home to school in February of 2018, dreaming up the perfect road trip with an imaginary outdoorsy artist like myself, I realized that there would never be a perfect travel companion. At the time, I was feeling trapped by school and work, and the perfect solution hit me on that car ride. At the end of the semester, I was going to embark on that dreamed up road trip. Only, I was going to do it alone. I think most people have some kind of preconceived idea of their perfect road trip and their ideal, confident, outgoing self taking on new opportunities like a champ, but realistically, I know I am far shyer than my own dreamed up, confident me in my brain. When I set out on my road trip, I’d had three months to dream up perfect scenarios of adventure and people-meeting. I met a lot of people,

many that I still think of on a weekly, even daily, basis, and I can easily go into long, happy stories of the people I met, but on a lonely evening along the coast of Oregon, I got to learn a little bit about not meeting people. I had just spent a couple of days in Seattle visiting my aunt and it was time for me to move down the Pacific coast a bit, though I didn’t have any real plan in mind. Someone had suggested I visit Powell Bookstore in Portland, but I wasn’t sure that I wanted to drive into another city so soon. I ended up driving along the coast, and eventually stopped in a little coastal town. I don’t even remember the name of it, only that it’d be the perfect place for a young adult novel to be set. I also remember feeling lonely. After a few days of having a companion, I often found it hard to adjust to being completely solo again. I followed the primary road along the coast in this little town until I hit a dead end. All along the road there were signs saying “no overnight parking,” and the sun was starting to turn the sky orange as it got closer to the water. I parked in a small sandy parking lot full of cars and followed a family down a duney hill. I was wearing my hiking boots, which became soaked only moments later as I walked farther out of the beach than anyone else, and my ankles were quickly and unexpectedly rushed by salty, sandy water. Everyone on the beach

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was with someone. There were several groups having fires on the beach, and a few other couples and families walking together. Before long, I was headed back to my car, slightly worried it might be hard to find a spot to sleep that night. In the parking lot, I switched out my boots for sandals, and noticed a new car pull up. A guy opened the driver side door and poured out a beer. Another guy and a girl got out on the other side. The second two gathered up blankets, cigarettes, and beer and headed towards the beach, but the first guy noticed my license plate as I closed up my car. He walked my direction and asked what brought me all the way from Tennessee. I don’t remember much of the conversation beyond him saying that he’d taken a big road trip just last year. The whole time, I was trying to subtly, not-so-subtly get back in my car. Oblivious to my slow exit, he invited me to join him and his friends on the beach for a fire. I thanked him, but said no. As I finally drove off in my car, my eyes filled up with odd, unspecifically reasoned tears. I had read so many young adult novels in middle school and high school that had bonfires on the beach in them. It always sounded so lovely, not to mention that was probably the way a girl would meet her summer love if my life were a young adult novel. I pulled over in a parking lot and thought for a second. I was having the calmest moment of panic ever. I felt mellow by the ocean, but totally freaked out in my brain. Was I not taking advantage of my opportunities?

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I decided to go back to the beach. It was almost dark when I pulled back into my old parking spot. I could see the guy and his friends around a fire, but I couldn’t make myself get out of the car. Instead of feeling more anxious in that moment though, I felt a lot of peace. I’d given myself a second chance, and in that second chance, I was doing exactly what I wanted to-- not sitting next to a strange man who poured beer out of his car. I don’t remember where I slept that night, either a highway pull-off or a Cabela’s parking lot, but I do remember feeling proud of myself that night. I trusted my instincts about a guy I didn’t know, and no, I don’t know if those instincts really saved me from anything, but I do know that when I doubted myself, I recognized it, and I chose to indulge myself in choosing what made me feel best in the situation. There were a lot of times in my ten weeks of solo travel that I got to both doubt myself, and trust my instincts, and I could and should fill many more pages of typing, writing, and sketching about those moments, but as unexciting as that sunset framed evening was, it was one of my greatest learning moments along the way. There’s a lot of pride and joy that can come with learning through experience, but it’s even better when the sky is sherbet orange and the air around you smells like happy. The cool thing about solo travel is that you get to trust yourself, and indulge in you, and you can do it from anywhere.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR My name is Elise Askonas. I’m a Tennessee native and an avid traveler. I spend both my free time and my professional time outside or painting. I’m passionate about taking care of our planet and communicating with people through creative processes. I traveled solo abroad for the first time in 2013, and have been backpacking since approximately 2009. I’m always dreaming of my next adventure. 8 · S ONDERTRAVE LM AG.COM

H OW TO M A S T E R G RO U P T R AV E L By Elisa Vandergriff

So you and a group of your best friends have decided to set out on an adventure? Or maybe you’re taking a trip with your in-laws for the first time? Here are a few pro tips on how to smoothly navigate some of the confusing aspects of traveling with a group... W H E R E T O S TAY

One of the first big challenges to tackle when traveling with a group is figuring out where to stay. While getting multiple hotel rooms can be expensive and sleeping arrangements can get confusing, the best way to house multiple people on a trip is through Airbnb! You can find an Airbnb just about anywhere nowadays, and you an specify exactly what you’re looking for - from a single room in a stranger’s home for one traveler, to an entire house with a pool and sleeping arrangements for ten. You can book online or with the app for easy arrangements on the go. Plus, nice Airbnb’s can often be cheaper than even the cheapest of hotels or hostels. The best part is the cost can be split between everyone staying! Here’s how... H O W T O PAY Traveling with a group inevitably involves splitting a cost here and there. Keeping track of who paid for who’s what can be confusing, especially while trying to figure out foreign currency. The best way to split costs on the go is by using free payment apps like Venmo or the Cash app. These apps connect directly to your card or bank account and allow people to easily transfer funds to someone else. You can even write in what the payment is for to easily keep track of who has paid what.

C OM M U N I C AT I O N I S K E Y Communication can be difficult among groups with different phone plans and providers. The best communication tools for traveling groups are apps like GroupMe and WhatsApp. Both of these apps - GroupMe is great for messaging and WhatsApp can be used for messaging and calls - can be used like regular texting and calling without the need for cell service (although wifi is needed). The apps are available for both iPhones and Androids - just download, create your account, and start a group with all of your travel buddies! SHARING PHOTOS While pictures might not be important for all travelers, they are the priority for many. Sharing pictures on the go can be complicated, especially if you’re like me and are constantly hit with that “Out of Memory” warning. If you and the person who took your picture in front of that iconic monument are both iPhone users, Airdrop is the way to go. Airdrop doesn’t use wifi - only Bluetooth - so even if you’re totally off the grid in other senses, you can still share photos with your friends! If you’re not using an iPhone or have a lot of photos to share and not a lot of storage, Google Drive is the way to go. Setting up a Google account is free and easy and you can upload and share photos to and from any device - I even use Google Drive to share photos from my own computer to the Google Drive app on my phone!

No matter who you’re with, group travel always has the potential to get a little stressful. Make sure to follow these tips to make your sailing smoother - and make sure you share them with everyone in your group!

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. a d a

n a C GUIDE TO QUEBEC CITY

THE COUNTRY THAT CONJURES UP THE SCENT OF MAPLE SYRUP, VISIONS OF MOOSE, AND JUSTIN TRUDEAU.

At least that’s what came to my mind whenever I thought of Canada. But that was before going to Quebec City for the first time three years ago. Story & Photography by Caroline Hartley

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It’s safe to say I fell in love instantly, being a Francophile for as long as I can remember. I had the opportunity to visit again this past summer and learned a few things along the way. Traveling leaves you with so many memories, as well as the burden to share them. It’s my hope to give others another location to add to their list of places to see and maybe this will give them a little more preparedness before visiting.

W H E R E TO S TAY Typically people make plans to stop at a hotel outside the city, like my family did our first trip. The second time around, we stayed in Vieux-Quebec (Old Quebec). It saved money and made it easier to explore. We booked an Airbnb in advance and were only a minute’s walk from Port St. Louis. Being able to walk outside and see Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac or a horse-drawn carriage pass was delightful. True to the Canadian trope, our host was kind. The official languages are English andFrench in Quebec, so there can be a language barrier. Be patient and remember you’re a guest.

W H AT TO S E E My personal favorite part of the city is Vieux-Quebec. Being walking friendly and a time capsule of charm and history, it’s the complete package. Port St. Louis and Port St. Jean are the two entrances. The Ramparts are the last remaining fortified walls in North America, north of Mexico. Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac is one of the most recognizable buildings in Canada and is a must-see. It’s a popular destination and walking around the lobby to enjoy the architecture isn’t unusual. The hotel included a small museum of sorts with the history of the hotel in display cases. The surrounding area is bustling, which makes it a good option if you need to see a lot within a small time frame. Terrasse Dufferin, historical monuments, coffee shops, and street performers are in front of the Chateau. Lieu Historique National des Forts-et-Châteaux-Saint-Louisis located directly underneath the boardwalk. The museum does charge a small fee, but it’s worth it to see the remains of the former Governor’s home. The Saint Lawrence River is below and has plenty of benches to relax on and take in your surroundings. A little further uphill will lead you to...

RUE DE TRESOR Informally known as Artist Alley, it’s a delightful and rather small marketplace consisting of paintings and prints. If you don’t buy anything, it’s still enjoyable to see the city through the eyes of those who love it. Art does make for a great souvenir though. They tend to capture the memories of your traveling so much better than a tee shirt with a moose on it or an overpriced shot glass.

PA R L I A M E N T B U I L D I N G If you’re a history buff in the slightest, the Parliament building is worth your while. They offer free tours in English and French. It’s a great chance to learn how another country’s government works and they explain each province’s responsibilities.

C O M P TO I R E M M AU S My family and I are huge fans of thrift stores. Planning the trip in advance, we knew we had to check what another country had to offer. Comptoir Emmaus was far from the Old City, but the walk took us to areas we wouldn’t have seen otherwise. The thrift store itself had good prices and four stories of merchandise, including a vintage clothing section. One thing they don’t include online is that they do not have A/C in the old building. We went in mid-June, so we cut our trip short there, but if you’re in the area, hit it up.

PETIT CHAMPLAIN Petit Champlain is supposedly the oldest commercial district in North America. The aptly named Breakneck Stairs (built in 1635) descend into the busy little neighborhood that provides plenty of shopping, galleries, restaurants, and the Notre-Damedes-Victoires Church. I consider Petit Champlain the heart of the old city, making it a great place to take photos as well.

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MARKET OLD PORT OF QUEBEC Located on the river, the outdoor market provides a local feel and plenty of wares. Sellers offer fish, cheeses, potted plants, imported foods, baked goods, and art. We found a corner booth that provided cards, prints, and posters for a considerable discount. My father found a beautiful poster for himself, while I picked two small prints featuring the streets we frequented that week. Every time I look at them, it vividly brings me back to my time in Quebec City.

N O W, go chase that feeling that pushes you to see the world and all it has to offer. Roam the ancient cobblestone streets, explore the nooks and crannies of old hotels. Grab a bottle of rosé, pick up some cheese and bread from the outdoor market, and have a sunset picnic overlooking the city. Talk to strangers, stroll through parks and museums. Try a new food. Pet as many dogs as you can. Never turn down the opportunity to wander.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Hello! My name is Caroline Hartley and I adore going on adventures. My dad was a travel nurse when I was very young and we used to see the U.S. along the way. It ruined me for life and now I can’t sit still for more than a month at a time. I document my trips on Instagram (@foxesandlattes) as best as I can, but I’m currently trying to expand to blogging! Writing is another love of mine and I’ve found that it goes hand in hand with traveling. I hope to continue in both areas.

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B y E l i sa Va nd e rg r i f f

It seems like no matter how many times I pack for trips, I always feel like I’m going to forget something! Shirts? Check. Toothbrush? Check. Passport? Check. But what about the things you wouldn’t normally think of packing? Here’s a list of 14 things that might have been left off of your original checklist, but that you should totally pack:

14 U N US UA L T H I N GS TO PAC K

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1. P O W E R S T R I P You never know how many outlets will be available where you’re staying, so packing your own power strips ensures you’ll be able to charge your phone, camera, laptop, other camera, etc.

2 . N OT E B O O K Notebooks are so versatile and therefore an essential item to pack! Before you leave write down all the information you’ll need to know addresses of places you’re staying, flight and train times, names and numbers of contacts, etc. - journal and take notes about your experiences sketch some of the interesting sights around you. When I travel I rely on my Moleskine and use the little pocket in the back to store tickets, stickers, business cards, or information I’ve printed out.

5 . F O L DA B L E B AG When your suitcases, carry-ons, purses, and backpacks are all packed full, an extra foldable bag can take care of any other carrying needs. I’ve taken my foldable backpack from Love Bags on day trips, to the grocery store, and used it as a purse/ backpack in-between. Baggu also has some adorable foldable tote bags and backpacks.

6. POWER CONVERTER

A common pillow case can be transformed into an incredible multifunctional tool when traveling. Pack an extra one to hold dirty clothes use it as a towel when a real towel is nowhere to be found - stuff it with a blanket or clothes when an extra pillow is needed - or just use it to cover questionable looking pillows.

I know for me, different countries using different plugs isn’t something I typically think about in my everyday life. But when you sit down to charge your phone after a long day of traveling, it’s nice to actually be able to plug it in. A power converter pack like the Conair Travel Smart Converter Set that includes multiple adapters compatible in hundreds of countries is a great investment. Use the converter for appliances that use more power, like laptops and hair dryers, while the small adapters fit perfectly on plugs that have built in power converters, like iPhone chargers.

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7. E M P T Y B OT T L E

3 . P I L LO W C AS E

It’s shocking how quickly your phone battery can run out, even when you don’t even have service! A portable charger can change your entire travel experience and save you from getting into unfortunate situations due to a dead phone. Sometimes when I rely on my phone for directions, I will even walk around with the portable charger in my backpack, a long cord plugged in, and my phone in my hand.

What if I told you that you can bring whatever sized water bottle you want onto a plane? That’s right, bigger that the regulation 3.4oz - it just has to be empty! Once you pass through airport security you can fill up your water bottle and stay hydrated on the plane and throughout your travels. Bringing your own reusable bottle also helps eliminate lots of unnecessary plastic bottle use - yay earth!

8 . PAC K A B L E C OAT Packing for cold or rainy weather can be treacherous because of how much precious packing space coats take up. Thankfully, packable coats have changed the game! You can squish a winter coat down to the size of your fist. The best news is, you don’t have to sacrifice style for space! Companies like Joules and Lands End have some very stylish (and just downright cute) options for packable rain and down jackets.

9. M E D I C I N E B AG No matter where I go, my mom always manages to slip a bag filled with various vitamins and medications into my bags. I always thought it was a little bit of a waste of space until I had terrible allergies in Italy and caught the flu in England... Finding the medication you need can be incredibly complicated in a different country and being sick is the worst, so always be prepared for anything - even if it feels a bit silly.

10 . P R I N TO U TS O F A L L YO U R I N F O R M AT I O N In a digital world, printing out information almost seems counterintuitive. But having paper copies of tickets, reservation information, addresses, and personal identification can be a life saver in sticky situations. Keep multiple copies - in your luggage and on your person.

11. M A K E U P W I P E S Using a makeup wipe after a long day of traveling can help you feel more refreshed and clean (even if you’re not). To save space, buy a small pack of makeup wipes like the Nutrogena travel pack and cut them into quarters - they do the trick, take up less space, and last longer!

12 . S L E E P A I D Getting enough sleep while traveling is one of the most important yet most challenging accomplishments. Invest in some TylenolPM or ZzzQuil to make sleeping on planes, in noisy hostels, or in foreign beds a little bit easier.

13 . B A R O F S OA P I always travel with Dr. Bronner’s Lavender Bar Soap. According to their website, it can be used to wash your face, body, hands and hair, for bathing, shaving, brushing your teeth, rinsing fruit, aromatherapy, washing dishes by hand, doing laundry, mopping floors, allpurpose cleaning, washing windows, scrubbing toilets, washing dogs, controlling dust mites, and killing ants and aphids. It’s organic, vegan, can be found at most drug stores, and doesn’t take up precious carry-on liquids bag space.

14 . S O M E T H I N G TO READ Books are a great forms of travel entertainment that don’t require wifi or electricity. While packing a book to read on the way is important, one of my favorite hobbies is checking out local bookstores while I’m traveling. You always have a new story to bring along with you and that book will forever be tied to the memory or your travels. 1 4 · SONDERTRAVE LM AG.COM

WINDOW SEAT By Logan Elizabeth Craig

A ghost sits by me from York to Peterborough unbothered & unbothering. She knows I am at peace. So unafraid that maybe I’m the ghost to her. Nothing to latch onto. I already know I will be fresh-squeezed, drippings of grace, no bitter fear. She could grab the pit and bite but I’m confident her teeth would splinter like old wood underneath the smallest footsteps. But she makes no grab, only whispering in her breath to live. To live.

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Photo by Elisa Vandergriff

ABOUT THE AUTHOR My name is Logan Craig and I’m a Project Coordinator for a neuroscience lab in DC. My other passions include travel & writing. I studied abroad in Cambridge during college and recently went back to the UK to explore Scotland with a friend.

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A Y E A R I N AU ST R A L I A

Story & Photography by Marilyne Chabanis

ike seeds planted on my way, some of my friends, boyfriends and acquaintances had told me stories about their exotic adventures in the land down under. I always longed to go there (and everywhere that is not the country I live in), but never imagined it would really be possible. I was studying at the time, and I naïvely thought that I had to follow my “studies” path until the end before starting something else like traveling. At the time, I had just ﬁnished my degree in fashion and textile design and wanted to continue 3 more years to secure myself a place in the world and a “good” salary. I began to apply to public design schools, in Paris because, for me, there was no other way. My future lay there, and I would become a fashion designer and live a cool expensive life in a big city. I think the courses I wanted in existed only in 3 schools, so I applied to every one of them. I was conﬁdent but also thought it would be wise to have a backup plan, aka a course I did not want but could get in easily. In the end the only one I got in was, of course, the backup plan. I was disappointed but thought, alright, at least I have something. I had no real and strong interest in the courses. They were not creative at all, all about economics and marketing and production. I knew that it wasn’t for me. So, when the summer holidays arrived, my desire to enter the school vanished. In the meantime, the seeds from the many tales I heard about Australia grew fast and strong and the idea became a real intention. I also met someone who was to leave, alone, indefinitely to... Australia. That person made me realize that it was actually possible to leave everything, that life isn’t just about degrees and careers.

I began to wonder, what is it that I want from life? Lots of thinking was made (and is still in the making). Six months later I hopped on a plane to Melbourne, which is the second biggest city in Australia after Sydney. It’s located at the very south of the east coast and has cold winters and very hot, but dry, summers. Melbourne resembles very much any big European city in the way that it has its own character and soul, and of course, feels European by the whole multicultural side and the melting pot that is this place. Funny enough, Australia is the size of Europe but has only 24 million inhabitants. It is huge. You’ll ﬁnd the best coffee in the world there (I am not joking), it is renowned for it. I actually worked as a barista, and I couldn’t believe how picky certain Melburnians are with their precious beverage. If you accidentally produce a bit of foam on your ﬂat white, it will become a latte, and that sir, is a big mistake. I actually miss Australian coffee very much. Melbourne is like an artsy, cool and edgy looking girl. You get the beach, you get the bustling city, and you get all these cute, one-of-a-kind neighborhoods surrounding the CBD. There is always something happening, a festival, a huge market, a public event, music on the streets, an art fair, a sudden rainstorm… anything that is cause for celebration seems to be celebrated, bringing people together amongst delicious street food and beers. Aussies are a lot more friendly, open, and chatty than the French in general, but still very hard working. So here I am, on the other side of the world, starting my journey in a new wonderful place. It is especially enjoyable as I left France in the middle

of the winter to arrive in the heat of the summer there. Needless to say, I spent my ﬁrst three months living my best life. I made many friends, but my friend Clara, I felt like meeting her was destiny. We arrived on Australian soil the same evening, stayed at the same cool hostel by the beach, and there we were the next morning, hardly coping with the fact that we’re on our own in a country where nobody knows us, sitting on a bench in the hostel’s social room. I had missed breakfast and she was waiting to move into her room. We looked at each other, she came to me, and we started chatting. Since that moment, we have been inseparable. We moved into a ﬂat in the city and shared a little room, even a bed, and every moment of our time. We shared joy, fear, workouts, pain, laughter, deep conversations, food (lots of food), we watched each other fall in love with our actual boyfriends, and we especially shared the very same humor. She is a sister to me, a soulmate. Clara only stayed 6 months in Australia and we were heartbroken when we had to say goodbye. We met again one and a half years later in Copenhagen where she lives. It was like we never left. Although she is away and we don’t share so much anymore, she is one of the most important people in my life. And if you know me, you know that this is true for more than one person. I met another soul mate while I was there. He and I have now a very serious relationship, a long distance relationship nonetheless. Falling in love was not the plan at all, I wanted to live, travel and be free, tour Australia in a van, and surf every day.

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This is cliché, but also what you expect from this trip. So, when the winter came, I was supposed to move north and follow the warmth. I was very clear with him about my plans, that I wanted to travel, and he respected my decision. But I guess life happens when you’re busy making plans. I stayed in Melbourne, I moved in with him, the rest is history. I fell in love with the guy and the city. The second half of my gap year went by so fast. I lived like a local and enjoyed it so much. No wonder Melbourne has been voted for 7 consecutive years the most livable city in the world. But don’t be fooled, my journey was not a perfect and harmonious experience ﬁlled with sunshine and breathtaking landscapes. Finding a job in a big city like Melbourne, and being a “backpacker” is not the easiest of tasks. Some of us ﬁnd something good really quick, others don’t. I eventually

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found one, but I was being illegally underpaid for the worst 3 months of my time there. The “manager” was an old Italian man who was obsessed with money and had the worst habit of making inappropriate jokes and sexist comments about us, the waitresses. This habit grew into an everyday experience that my colleague and I had to suffer. At the end, they got caught by the authorities for everything they were doing illegally, but it left me very disturbed and helpless because we were sexually harassed by this disgusting man. I had such a hard time getting through this, but it showed me that Karma is for sure a real thing. The owner got a ﬁne he could not pay unless he sold his house, which is ironic for him who wouldn’t even bother to pay certain employees as a blackmail to keep them working at his place. This experience opened a dark and sad hole in my heart. Anxiety and anger harbor a place too and, from

time to time, I still get this sensation of a threat over me. Sadly, this tends to happen a lot to foreigners who are in need of money and will be taken advantage of by greedy hospitality owners. Thankfully, systems exist in order to protect their rights and expose illegalities and other misbehaviors. I quit before they had to close down the restaurant and secured myself a real job before leaving for a road trip along the east coast with my family. This trip was so beautiful. We hired a campingcar and drove more than 4000km. We made most of each day and visited mind blowing places. I became my family’s tour guide/event planner/ driver/interpreter. Also, it might’ve been the only opportunity for my parents and brothers to visit a country that far away, they had to take it. I am very grateful we made it, their hearts will be ﬁlled with memories forever.

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In early September, I started my new job and felt much better. I could ﬁnally make a living, even working part time. The reason I didn’t search for a job in my ﬁeld is that a working holiday visa is usually not welcomed for “serious” jobs. I didn’t mind. I lived like a local during these months and wandered around Victoria with my boyfriend during long weekend road trips. We went to Tasmania and several other places, one of my favorites being Byron Bay. You learn so much when you throw yourself out in the world, you grow and mature in ways only an experience like that can make you do. I think that every young person should go and see the world because it can change lives, it does. I hear so many stories from people who are transformed after travels abroad, saying they understand the world and their needs better. I do share this feeling. I was always an observer and I saw how much worldwide problems affected me now, especially after spending a week in Bali. I was struck by how polluted this island was, it was truly a trigger for me. Before that, I became vegetarian in Australia and developed a strong will to

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lead a more conscious and meaningful life. I read a lot, informed myself. Having studied fashion, I knew that the clothing industry is the second largest polluter in the world. With globalization, the fast fashion trend has been feeding the rampant consumerism that is shopping for cheap, disposable items like single use plastics. I decided to cut them out. My love for vintage and secondhand shops grew, enjoying that satisfaction you get whenever ﬁnding a cool and unique piece of clothing. I am becoming more and more aware and open, I think sometimes you must reeducate yourself in order to evolve towards a better you, a better person. This year deﬁnitely left a mark on me. I want to do much more in the future. Everything is more meaningful, including the way I live. Despite being in a long-distance relationship, I never felt happier on an everyday basis and in a romantic relationship. I am slowly reaching my goals and, if I ever work in the fashion industry, it will definitely be on the side that changes the way we see and produce clothing. But for now, all that is on my mind is: travel some more and learn some more.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR My name is Marilyne Chabanis, I am 23 and am part French part German. I am living in Marseille, south of France. I love all things revolving around art, design and image. I paint and draw a lot and I aspire to be a fashion illustrator. 2 2 Âˇ SONDERTRAVE LM AG.COM

F I V E Z E R O WA S T E T R AV E L E S S E N T I A L S

By Zoë H es te r

Imagine that you’re stuck in a train station somewhere in Southern France, staring down the coffee machine. You really really really want that tiny cup of espresso, but you also really really really don’t want that plastic cup that it’s going to come in. Reducing and preventing waste while traveling can be a daunting task. In a fast paced world filled with grub on the go, it can be difficult to say no to single use plastics, but being prepared makes all the difference! Here are 5 things that I always bring with me on trips to reduce waste:

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

My name is Zoë Hester and I am a graduate student at East Tennessee State University, where I have studied English, French, and dance. I love to spend as much time as I can traveling and have visited England, France, Canada, Italy, Latvia, and Montenegro. You can follow along with my adventures on Instagram @zoe_miranda_ and you can follow my zero waste lifestyle @zerowaste.easttennessee!

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A water bottle isn’t just a low waste travel essential, it’s an every day essential. Bringing your own water bottle along for the ride can help you to avoid the use of single use plastics everywhere from the airport to a mountain trail. Just make sure to bring an empty one to the flight gate!

In addition to my water bottle, I always travel with my 16 oz stainless steel cup. You can use a cup for so many different things! I’ve filled mine with iced coffee in Montréal, ginger and carrot juice in New Orleans, and even with beer (in various locations!). Throw a sleeve on it and it works for hot drinks, as well.

A sealable container, like a metal tin or mason jar, will be your new best friend to travel with! I always pack some snacks in my metal tin for a long flight or road trip to save me from any wasteful food packaging. Once you’ve eaten your snack, you can fill your container with other yummy foods during your trip!

Traveling with your own reusable straw and cutlery may seem a bit extra, but they sure do come in handy often, and they don’t take up any room in your carry-on! I always carry a straw and fork with me while traveling. I might just use them a couple times, but that’s a couple pieces of plastic that won’t end up in the landfill.

I don’t leave home without a canvas tote and a couple of small cloth bags, and it’s no different when I’m traveling! Going to check out a local market? Bring your bags. Taking a trip to the bookstore? Bring your bags. Want to buy croissants to go? Bring your bags. Don’t have a nice canvas bag? Buy one as a souvenir on your next trip!

It’s impossible to travel without producing any waste. Your flight or drive alone is going to produce more emissions than you want to be responsible for, and unfortunately there’s not really much we can do about that for the time being. We can, however, prevent waste in other places. Being prepared for possible needs while traveling can help you reduce waste (and usually, save money, too!). Carrying your own water bottle, cup, container, straw, cutlery, and bags will probably add like 2 pounds to your carry-on. Traveling can throw a lot of unexpected curveballs your way, so next time you’re stuck in an airport or train station somewhere, at least you’ll have your reusable cup to fill with coffee!

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THE WORLD NEEDS DREAMERS Story & Photography by Ilona Ivelff

ABOUT THE AUTHOR My name is Ilona and I’m 23. I was born in the South of France and lived my whole life by the Mediterranean Sea. I want to become an English teacher, but at the moment, I’m focusing on my art. I’m obviously obsessed with travel, but what I enjoy the most is living abroad. Feeling like a local and calling a new place home is the wonderful feeling I’m chasing. I’m about the leave France again for Australia where I’ll live for a few months to work and make myself a name as an artist. S ON D ER · 25

That’s where I started to be more confident about myself, about my English, about my ability to adapt to a new environment, and especially about my art skills. I had already exhibited my paintings during festivals or organizations in France, but right there, it was totally different. I dared to ask, and when I got accepted for an Art Show, it took courage to stand in front of people who just wanted to wander around and be distracted by the atmosphere. The opportunities on the art scene and the thrill of each new experience influenced my decision to go abroad by myself and I was accepted as an exchange student at East Tennessee State University for 2017/2018. My personal project is to become an English teacher and keep grinding as an artist wherever life will take me. I love teaching and sharing with people who are eager to learn. I just want to be a better person everyday and to be surrounded by motivated and well-intended people. With all the states and incredible places the US has to offer, when I jumped out of the plane, I found myself in Tennessee. Very rural, pretty redneck, far from everything, difficult to move from place to place, fast foods everywhere... But still. I met international students and

spent time with them, it was not like “oh you’re from Japan, how is it there?”, it would have been too simple. Getting to know people and their country is not only about small chats. It is by spending time with foreigners, by talking (or not talking; people from Japan, for example, are pretty shy and discreet), but mostly by listening that you will grow, that you will learn about the world and about yourself.

“

The decision to go there by myself could have been a no-no for so many people I know, but when you’re right

WHEN

T R AV E L I N G

BY YO U R S E L F,

“

s far as I remember, I have always loved traveling. When I was a kid, I traveled with my family mostly to southern European Countries, and in 2016, I made one decision that really changed my life. I went to Atlanta, GA, USA, and was an intern in a law office for three months. I had my first roommates, I lived for the first time in Downtown, I made friends with people who were not my age, who had different origins, and I lived in the gay neighborhood! In simpler words, I had so many first times.

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there, the only option is to act and go. Just go. I faced difficult moments when I found myself well surrounded but quite lonely, since some people think that if you’re leaving in a few months, it won’t be worth it to share time with you. I met so many people during these ten months. Maybe I won’t see them again, but I had so many magical moments with people who had projects, who were passionate, who had ambitions, and who sincerely cared about me, so it’s okay if we can’t cross paths again. Just because it was short doesn’t mean it did not mean anything.

Even though France and the United States are similar since they are both modern countries, the culture, the way of life, the way of thinking are very different. I won’t tell you why. I just want to show you that I made it and how proud I was. I crossed states with a Greyhound bus (awful!), with a rented car with a flat tire, with an amazing jeep we also rented, and I slept in the middle of California, even on a plane (comfort is amazing sometimes)! When traveling by yourself, there is no pattern, you make your own rules, just make sure you’re safe. Your whole life will be made up of going to work by car, stuck in traffic, paying for your bills, and paying to eat. So maybe you should add good memories in your mind that will never leave and create this special pattern in your inner self, this hunger for discoveries, for the unknown. If you have already traveled by yourself or lived abroad, you’ll notice that when you come back to school, work, or “normal life”, you are impatient and systemically in search of this thrill, this special sensation, feeling of addiction. There are so many good articles about how not to spend too much on traveling or where to eat and what to do in a particular city, but what I want people to imagine and live is this feeling of liberty. The possibilities of souvenirs and experience are huge. You can be a volunteer teacher in Peru, you can be an exchange student in the USA, you can be an intern in Italy, you can get a working holiday visa in Australia... The world is yours. The world wants to meet you. People will smile at you. Take your dreams and projects and leave your mark on earth. Give something to someone you’ll never meet again. Take pictures, eat local food, laugh with strangers... The world needs dreamers like you, and so do you.

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Story & Photography by Elisa Vandergriff

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MY T W O WEEK W E ST E R N R OA D T R I P D I D N ’ T STA R T IN A CAR.

My boyfriend (brave man) and I hopped on a plane and flew to Spokane, Washington to meet my family who had already made the journey from Knoxville, Tennessee all the way to the other side of the country. Although our trip took a lot less time than theirs, they already had two weeks of adventures under their belt, along with probably a dozen beautiful national parks visited along the way. As if we weren’t excited enough already, the stories that filled that long ride from the Spokane Airport to our next destination made us even more excited to join their adventure and experience our own. We took two weeks to travel from Spokane to Denver, stopping at as many national parks as we could (which wasn’t hard, they’re everywhere out there), and then we booked it through that last mid-western corn-field-filled leg to get back home. We met some awesome people, saw some absolutely out-of-this-world landscapes, and had some delicious food. If you ever find yourself in the area (or many areas), these are some places you don’t want to miss: 2 8 · SONDERTRAVE LM AG.COM

RELIC SMOKEHOUSE & PUB C O E U R D ’A L E N E , I DA H O

We passed through Coeur D’Alene looking for something local and tasty, and Relic Smokehouse & Pub did not disappoint. The BBQ was delicious and the bunker-shaped restaurant had a friendly, local atmosphere.

B A K E RY LO F T D I XO N , M O N TA N A

I got the feeling that not many people pass through Dixon, Montana, but if you ever find yourself doing just that, you HAVE to stay at this Airbnb. It is the old Dixon Mercantile, which the owner transformed into a quirky art studio/apartment. As a person who has stayed in her fair share of Airbnb’s, I can honestly say this was the coolest one I’ve ever been to.

C O U N T RYS I D E C A F É C H A R LO , M O N TA N A

The, and I cannot stress this enough, BEST diner any of us had ever been to. Cleverly disguised as a rinky-dink place to pass by in the middle of nowhere, Montana, all it takes is one step inside this place to know it’s special. We each got something different and every single crumb was unbelievably delicious. The most impressive part was definitely the country ham plate because the ham was bigger than the plate and as tasty as can be.

BAKERY LOF T - DIXON, MONTANA

G L AC I E R N AT I O N A L PA R K Although the road was still snowed over while we were there… in June… and we didn’t get to see it all, Glacier had the purest, most beautiful north-western mountain landscape you could imagine. FA R M E R S M A R K E T

If you find yourself in West Glacier on a Friday, stop by the farmers market held just outside the park and pick yourself up a huckleberry pie or two.

COUNTRYSIDE CAFE - CHARLO, MONTANA

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BAKERY LOF T - DIXON, MONTANA

COUNTRYSIDE CAFE - CHARLO, MONTANA

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Y E L LO W S TO N E N AT I O N A L PA R K Entering Yellowstone was like entering another planet. Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve never seen such a variety of terrains in such a condensed space. We all had no choice but to agree that Yellowstone was one of the best parts of the trip because of how unbelievable it is. I highly recommend visiting as much of the park as you can.

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One of the must-try dishes of this area is the classic Bison Burger. It’s on just about every menu in and around Yellowstone, so don’t miss it (unless you’re a vegetarian of course)!

G R A N D T E TO N S We drove through the Tetons on our way out of Yellowstone and again had our breath taken away. The beauty of the Tetons is absolutely unparalleled and I finally understood the song lyric about “purple mountain majesty”.

GR AND TE TONS NATIONAL PARK

YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK

THE ROLLING OMELET A F TO N , W YO M I N G

Yep you read that right. This breakfast restaurant in a huge school bus ended up being one of our favorite places we ate because the food was delicious, the setting was very unique, and the owners were so friendly. Ed 1 P 18

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C E DA R B R E A KS N AT I O N A L M O N U M E N T A missed exit on our way to Zion brought us by Cedar Breaks National Monument right at sunset. It was a mistake we ended up being really glad that we made (even though we did hit a deer a little further down the road, everyone was unharmed and we were still glad).

Z I O N N AT I O N A L PA R K Zion marked the beginning of a completely different landscape than we had gotten used to. Instead of being greeted by lush evergreens, lakes, and mountains, we were greeted with the dry, barren beauty of Utah. Keep your water bottles full and your sunscreen layered, but don’t miss this breath-taking park. ZION NATIONAL PARK

ABOUT THE AUTHOR My name is Elisa (uh-LEE-suh) and I am a graphic designer, travel addict, and creator of Sonder. I graduated from East Tennessee State University in 2018, through which I experienced my life-changing study abroad experience and created Sonder as an honors thesis. At 23 years old, I’ve been to 25 countries and 45 states (and I’m always making plans to visit more). S ON D ER · 33

CEDAR BRE AKS NATIONAL MONUMENT

CAMPING IN ZION

I am a huge fan of Airbnb and the different experiences each individual stay provides, but this was my first time Airbnb-ing in a home of more mobile means. Our rented home for the weekend was a site with a camper, a place for our own tent, a firepit, a covered picnic table, and a composting outhouse. Sleeping under millions of visible stars in the wilderness on the edge of a National Park is an experience I would never trade and certainly one I encourage.

M OA B While most of these places have been absolute paradise for outdoorsy people, Moab takes the cake. Hiking, rock climbing, river rafting, you name it, you can find it somewhere around this little town or the two National Parks (Arches and Canyonlands) right down the road. I don’t have more information about those activities because we were all dehydrates within 5 minutes of stepping outside AND we wouldn’t want to leave grandma in the car. B R O K E N OA R R E S TAU R A N T

AIRBNB CAMPING NEAR ZION

We had a birthday to celebrate while we were in Moab so we picked out the Broken Oar. Even though we were a thousand miles away from home, the atmosphere was homey and comfortable as we sat on the patio with a perfect view of the sunset. The food was delicious and, oddly enough, the three-bean salad I had ended up fairly high on my all-time list of favorite foods.

DENVER I had always dreamed of visiting Denver, and it certainly did not disappoint. Even though we somehow ended up in a torrential downpour when Denver has 300 days of sunshine, we had a blast in that beautiful city. LIT TLE MAN ICE CREAM

Lucky for us, we knew some Denver locals. They sent us to Little Man Ice Cream, a busy little ice cream stand on the corner in a building shaped like a giant milk jug. I left wishing I lived closer so I could eat their blackberry honey goat cheese ice cream more often.

As a person whose favorite place to travel in America was always out of it, it was a life-changing experience to see the beauty and variety my own country has to offer. And it’s always cool to find out you can spend two weeks in a car with your grandma, brother, mom, dad, and boyfriend and everyone can come home alive and still speaking!

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HOW TO AFFORD

B y El i sa Van de rgr i f f

WO RLD TR AVE L Everyone wants to travel and no one wants to pay for it. Doing a quick search for flights and finding only tickets upwards of $1,000 can be disheartening; many people stop right there and assume they’ll never be able to afford a trip, but following these tips can help make traveling possible for people who never ever thought they’d be able to afford it.

BE FLEXIBLE This is my #1 travel tip. No, not a tip, a rule. Be flexible. The very essence of travel certainly has a way of making us all more flexible, but starting out with no flexibility is the main, expensive travel mistake people make. The following tips all require some element of flexibility and could help seriously spare your bank account.

S C OT T ’S C H E A P F L I G H TS This AMAZING subscription service finds flights that are REALLY cheap and sends you an email with prices form airports near you and instructions on how to get the tickets at the cheapest price. The key is to either be flexible with dates and locations or to watch very closely to find your preferred dates and locations - and act fast! Because sometimes the S ON D ER · 35

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low prices will only last an hour or so. It is a paid subscription and $30 a year might seem tough to swing, but if you’re serious about traveling it could end up saving you hundreds of dollars.

G O O G L E F L I G H TS Google Flights is one of my favorite *free* features from Google. You can search for any flight anywhere at any time and Google Flights will show you all your options – times, airlines, and prices. The best part, though, are the Date Grid, Price Graph, and Nearby Airports features that I didn’t even know existed for a long time because they’re a little hard to find. The Date Grid lets you view any and all prices for dates around when you’re thinking of flying to help you pinpoint the cheapest days to fly. The Price Graph is a great way

to visually see when during the year the tickets you’re looking for will be the cheapest, and the Nearby Airports lets you compare prices for airports close to the one’s you’ve indicated you’d like to fly to and from. Spending a little time browsing these free features can save you unbelievable amounts of money!

E ASYJ E T & RYA N A I R Mostly flown around Europe, both of these companies offer super stripped down flights for super low prices. If you can fit all of your stuff in one bag, you can sometimes find flights across Europe for less than $20. If you can’t fit all your stuff in one bag, it’s no problem, you can pay a little extra. These are definitely worth looking into when exploring travel options, sometimes a 2 hour flight is way easier than a 10 hour a train ride to the same place for the equal or less amount of money.

PAC K I N A C A R RY- O N It can be done!! I’ve traveled for up to 3 weeks with one carry-on and one purse. It’s easier to transport, free on flights, trains, and busses, and when you get home you’ll wonder why you have so much stuff when you know you can survive on so little and want to Marie Kondo everything you own.

B U S T R AV E L Bus tickets can be way cheaper than train tickets and can get you to the same place in around the same amount of time. When you’re checking for tickets, make sure to check times and prices of all your options. For example, I took a day trip from Italy to Croatia for only $11 on a Flix Bus. I still can’t believe it!

S TO R E U P S N AC KS Whether you want give up some precious packing space to stick a few Ed 1 P 20

granola bars in your luggage or pick up a little something everywhere you go, snacking throughout the day and only having 1 “big meal” out can save you $$$.

PICNIC My most common “travel meal” is a sandwich, bag of chips, and bottled drink purchased at a market or convenient store and eaten in a train station, on a park bench, at my Airbnb, or wherever I happen to be going next. A lot of markets offer a selection of pre-made sandwiches and with a bag of chips and a drink it’s as filling as a restaurant meal and much cheaper!

AIRBNB Hotels can be expensive, and when they’re cheap they’re notoriously lowquality. On the other hand, you can find really nice Airbnb’s for really low prices, sometimes down to $15 a night! There

are lots of different types of Airbnb’s: entire apartments, private rooms in someone’s house, and even shared rooms. I’ve had some great experiences staying in someone’s house and getting to know the lovely hosts and learning local tips from them, and I’ve stayed in some amazing places where a whole apartment to ourselves was just what we needed. You can be picky with filters and maps and find the place that is perfect for you, and the perfect price for you! The best part is, if you travel with friends, you can split that cost. Traveling for less money might also mean traveling less glamorously, but the experiences and memories are priceless. If your heart is set on seeing the world, making changes in your daily life to save money and putting in some extra work to travel cheaper can help make anyone’s travel dreams a reality. 3 6 · SONDERTRAVE LM AG.COM

T H E G LO B E T R OT T I N G P H OTO G R A P H E R By Katie Vandergriff

ABOUT THE AUTHOR My name is Katie Vandergriff and I’m an Enneagram 7. I was born in Anchorage, Alaska and now reside in East Tennessee. When I’m not working on my 140-year-old farmhouse, I’m busy planning my next trip.

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It was late in the day as we climbed the hill to Montmartre. Snow had been swirling most of the day. But, tiny bits of blue now peeked through the moody clouds. Our goal was the second-highest point in Paris, the Sacre Coeur or “Sacred Heart,” but we were getting a late start. The woman at the ticket office said the tower was open, but she was closed. We bought two tickets (5 euros) at the outside kiosk. At the back of the cathedral we found the unassuming entrance and climbed nearly 300 steps. We wound around the roof lines and ascended the final stairs to the inside of the dome. Paris spread out below - a literal living history map. The imposing Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe built by Napoleon, the ancient towers of Notre-Dame, the Louvre Art Museum, the rooftops of the artist district of Montmartre, and hundreds of centuries-old landmarks. Sitting on a stone bench we watched as the sun quickly set. Houston reached out and wrapped my cold hand in his warm, chubby ones. A dull gray covered the city. Slowly a single golden light shone below, then another, then another. Soon, the entire city was a dazzling, sparkling wonderland of golden, yellow, and red lights. Houston released my hand and picked up his camera. “Click, click, click,” he checked the back of the camera, and continued snapping in every direction as the sky grew dark and city grew bright.

A U N I Q U E T R AV E L P H OTO G R A P H E R When Houston was born, every doctor that appeared had worse news: unable to breath, jaundice, low muscle tone, hole in his heart, open heart surgery, Down syndrome. Each specialist cited their own long list of things he might never do. They never imagined by the age of 21 he would travel to 47 of the United States and to 19 countries.

it takes to get to the next beautiful place. He never meets a stranger. Meeting new people and learning about new cultures from around the world is one of the best parts. When asked his favorite country? He smiles and says, “All of them.”

A ST R O N G S E L F - A DV O C AT E Advocacy takes many forms. Some advocates are public speakers, while some quietly work behind the scenes to change opinions, policies, and laws. For Houston, he is an advocate both in front of and behind the camera. He has been signed with a talent agency since he was 5 years old. He has worked in both film and print. He has been in commercials for clients ranging from Boy Scouts of America to Department of Defense. He works to bring awareness for inclusion, bullying, and advocacy. Through years of working with photographers and filmmakers, Houston has learned much about visual storytelling. He is a strong self-advocate who pushes for inclusion in the arts and creative world.

haggis in Scotland, fish’n’chips in England, and escargot in France. Each of these accomplishments are special, but are more incredible considering the doctors’ grim predictions of restrictions and limitations.

SHARING HIS VISION In the summer of 2017 Houston held his first solo exhibit. It included photographs from his trips to Germany, France, Scotland, England, and Italy. His work has since been included in art shows and in multiple publications. He was recently selected as the sole photographer to have work represented at the Art Gallery in Perth, Scotland featuring fine artists from around the world. Houston Vandergriff recently finished his Photography Certification from the University of Tennessee. In the near future, He is focusing on building his photography skills and learning business processes. He is seeking new opportunities to showcase and sell his work. And, he is busy making plans for his next trip. His goal? Travel to every continent. He’s well on his way.

DEFYING THE ODDS It took years of physical therapy for Houston to be able to walk and to climb his first step. Now, he has hiked between the Cinque Terre towns in Italy, to a glacier and a volcano in Iceland, and around an Alpine lake in Slovenia. He has climbed to the top of the Tower in Pisa, the Arc de Triomphe in Paris, and clock towers in Cambridge and Florence It took years of oral motor therapy for Houston to learn to eat. Now, he has savored pizza in Italy, waffles in Belgium,

Through his photographs, Houston is able to share his love for travel and his eye for beauty. He has become an expert traveler. Numerous month-long trips have been spent with only a carry-on, and a backpack for his camera. He loves planes, trains, buses, subways, water taxis, or whatever 3 8 · SONDERTRAVE LM AG.COM

TO P 5 P L AC E S TO V I S I T I N I TA LY Story & Photography by Elisa Vandergriff

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ver since I can remember, my main goal in life was to live in Italy. When I was just a young girl I would get butterflies in my stomach when I saw pictures of beautiful Italian cities and landscapes, I tried (and failed) to teach myself to speak Italian on multiple occasions, and I bought every Italian guide and cookbook I came across. When I was searching for colleges I almost focused more on what study abroad opportunities they had than what degree programs they offered. Thankfully, the university I chose had a great degree program and plenty of study abroad opportunities in Italy. As soon as I was able, I applied for an exchange program in Milan and set out to live my dream. I was worried that traveling to the place I had always dreamed about would be a little bit like meeting your favorite celebrity - they look great in pictures but are a little disappointing in real life - but Italy turned out to be just as magical as I’d always imagined. I lived in Milan for four months and traveled as much as my school schedule (and my bank account) allowed. Everywhere I went in Italy was beautiful and special, each place in it’s own way. Everywhere has it’s own magic, but here are my top five places to visit in Italy:

1. M I L A N Ok, I might be a little biased towards Milan, having lived there for four months and all, but it says a lot about a place if I lived there and can still put it on the top of my list! Before going to Milan, the main comment I heard was, “You know it’s like a big industrial city?” which I’m pretty sure was meant to scare me away but it sure didn’t. In fact, the Big City Feel was one of my favorite parts of Milan the fantastic public transportation made it easy for

someone with no car (and no clue) to navigate the city, there was always something happening and something new to discover, and it’s central-European location made travel to other places super easy and convenient (and cheap)! Plus, Milan is the fashion capitol of the world which meant even the daily trek to class felt like a fashion show (although I’ll still never understand why the Milanese all felt the need to wear down parkas over their leather jackets in 65 degree weather).

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2. COMO While Milan has my heart, Como has my everything. As soon as I caught my first glimpse of Lake Como I knew I wanted to spend the rest of my life right there on the waterfront nestled in between glorious mountains. Como is about a 30 minute trip outside of Milan and while most people just go for the day, I want to go for the rest of my life. The best way to see all of the towns scattered around the lake’s shore is by taking one of the ferries. We stayed in the lovely Albergo Trattoria La Vignetta in Cernobbio and used the ferry to commute between the town of Como, where train station is, and the absolute must-see town of Bellaggio. If you have the time, I recommend you stop off at little towns along the ferry line to see what each place has to offer, but if you’re in a hurry, Bellaggio is the place to go. Once you visit, you’ll understand why George Clooney resides there - and you’ll want to be his neighbor too!

Photo by Elisa Vandergriff

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3. CINQUE TERRE

4. F LO R E N C E

Cinque Terre translates to “five lands” and that’s exactly what it is five little town scattered along the Ligurian Coast in the Cinque Terre National Park. Take the train into La Spezia and purchase and Cinque Terre Card at the train station. The card lets you take the train through the towns and hop on and off at any of them as you please. Journey out onto the rocks in Riomaggiore and watch the colorful boats rock in the waves in front of the even more colorful town. Climb the hill in Manarola and catch some glorious views over drinks and appetizers at Nessun Dorma. Venture up the mountain to Corniglia and make sure to take the bus up to the town if you’re not a fan of a million stairs (I found out about the bus a little too late, but I got a good workout). Stop in Vernazza and have some local trofie pasta from Baia Saracena by the water. And finally, enjoy the sunny beach views in Monterosso. Staying in Cinque Terre can be expensive so I recommend reserving one of the incredible Airbnb’s in La Spezia and traveling to the towns during the day.

This renaissance city is about as classically Italian as they come. Visit the incredible museums, stroll down the ancient streets, and admire the unbelievable architecture. Shop at the local markets for all your Italian leather good needs (I decided a leather bound notebook was just about all I could fit in my suitcase), grab lunch at La Cocotte Firenze, try rice gelato at Vivoli (it tastes way better than it sounds), and watch the sunset on the Arno with a view of the Ponte Vecchio or from above the city at Piazzale Michelangelo. Finish your night off with a visit to Jazz Club Firenze to hear jazz jam sessions every night of the week.

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5. V E N I C E Venice is like a theme park - except it’s a real place. I wish I could provide a plethora of specific recommendations of what to do and where to go in Venice, but my only advice is to just get lost. Leave the train station, take a bridge, follow a canal, and let your heart lead you through the streets of this floating city. Every twist and turn reveals beauty and I found myself even more in awe of Venice when I passed schools and supermarkets - things that seemed so out of place in this theme-park-city. Because it’s almost impossible to leave Venice accidentally, put your maps away and just roam (until it’s time to get back

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to the hotel or train station, of course). Buy some fresh fruit to snack on at the open markets and pick which restaurants to eat at just because the food looks tasty. Of course, following a schedule and map aren’t against the rules here, but getting utterly lost is the most genuine way to truly experience Venice - and when the day is done, take a seat on the edge of the city and watch the sun go down over the water. Arrivederci and buon viaggio - I know you’ll love Italy as much as I do!

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In my lifetime, I have been to many beautiful places and seen many wonderful things. Unfortunately, I don’t remember most of them. In the joy of discovery and travel, we make memories that will last a lifetime. But, will they really? When we return to normal life it’s easy to forget the special details. Exactly what was the name of that ancient castle in Germany? The waterfall in Jamaica? That cute café in the South of France with the steamy jasmine tea? Fortunately, for my frazzled memory, I discovered the joy of travel journaling. I now have a much better chance at remembering the special times. It may seem overwhelming at first, but trust me, travel journaling is worth the effort. Just follow these ten easy steps and your future self will thank you for the memories.

B E F O R E L E AV I N G 1 ) C A L E N DA R Start with a calendar/travel plan in front. I draw out a physical calendar with all of the days we will be traveling. You may be a list person. This will act as a guide for your trip and a table of contents later. 2 ) T R AV E L I N F O Include pages with important information for travel before you leave home or as you make your plans. List your lodging information (names, addresses, check in/out instructions, contact numbers). List your transportation arrangements (plane, train, bus tickets). And, finally, list activities that you have planned/want to plan. 3) RESEARCH Make a wish list of things you might like to see and do. Include maps of the areas you will visit. Hard copies of everything are good to have in case of limited wifi service. SSON OND DER ER ·· 45 45

W H I L E T R AV E L I N G 4) N OT E S As you go through your day, jot notes. I usually put a “highlights” page for each day and use this as my prompts for journaling later in the evening or on travel days. It fun to record how many steps you have taken or how many miles you have walked/traveled. 5) R E C O R D S In the evenings, early mornings, or on travel days, spend some time to write about your trip. See the list of writing prompts for help. Write details of your day - feelings, activities, flavors, weather, clothing choices (yours and others), culture/language challenges, etc.. You can be as specific or broad as you wish. It’s your journal. 6) E P H E M E R A Include special things in your journal such as ticket stubs, maps, pictures (can be cut from brochures), and receipts. I keep a small roll of washi tape and a pair of miniature scissors in my carry-on to be able to affix these along the way. 7) S P E C I A L E V E N TS Make a few special pages for remembering certain events. This includes pages like “Special People” for keeping a list of people that you meet while traveling and what makes them special, “Bucket List Items” for tracking the extra-memorable things from the trip, and “Lessons Learned” for figuring out ways to do things better next time.

HOME SWEE T HOME 8 ) E P I LO G U E Write a summary of your trip after you are home for a few days, and have had a chance to catch up on laundry. Travel changes you. It broadens your perceptions and feelings. By taking the time to ponder this and record your thoughts, you are better able to capture this elusive benefit of travel. 9) FINALIZE AND FILE Wrap up journaling for any loose days that may have been skipped. Tape in the latest and last of your memorabilia. Label your journal and place it in a place of prominence. 10 ) R E M I N I S C E N C E Leaf through your travel journal periodically. Remember the good times. Plan your next adventure.

W R I T I N G P R O M P TS - My favorite part of today was… - The best sight and smell of the day was… - My favorite food I ate today was… - The most interesting/fun/crazy person I met today was… - Something that didn’t go as planned… - A color that stood out today…

because…

- I traveled/walked _____ miles/km and saw______ - In five years, I want to remember…

M AT E R I A L S : REQUIRED:

T J RO AU VR EN LA L I N G

Journal (I like the large Moleskine dotted, but the options are endless)

Pen (Again, endless options, but I like Pentel R.S.V.P fine or Pilot G-2 0.38) OPTIONAL:

Washi tape Stickers (fun to look for in souvenir shops) Memorabilia Colored markers Tiny scissors (TSA approved)

B y Kat i e Van de rgr i f f

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ISN’T HOME WITH THE ONES YO U LOV E ? S ON D ER · 47

01 By Morgane Turqui

WA I T I N G ... P R O B A B LY T H E W O R ST F E E L I N G E V E R .

When going on an exchange, waiting is the thing you’ll do the most and the thing you’ll hate the most. You’ll first wait for your TOEFL results.

Then, you’ll wait for your acceptation with ISEP. Then, the longer and scarier part is probably waiting to know where you’ll end up, where you’re going to live for the upcoming year. Will it be a big city? A small town? What will be the weather like? How is the campus? Is there some public transportation? How far away from home is it? Is it inland or near the beach? Will I like living there? Eventually, when you know where you’re going to live, you wait until your departure’s day comes. So you make a countdown that you first check every week, then every day, and finally several times during the day. And while you watch at the countdown as if it was some kind of a bomb ready to explode, you’re feeling either anxious or really excited, or pretty sad, and sometimes, all of these feeling come together… And then starts the « last time of everything » period. The last time you see your friends, your family. The last time you enjoy your favorite meal prepared by your mother. The last time you play with your little brother. The last time you wake up in your bed. So you’re more and more feeling melancholia and you start wondering if you should go, if you’ll miss something while going abroad, if you are crazy to go away by yourself in a totally new country surrounded by strangers. But deep down you know you definitely need this year. You know that you’d rather have remorse than regrets and that going abroad really is the best thing you’ll ever do in your entire life. So now, you just look at the countdown, staring at these not-so-scary-anymore numbers, waiting until it is written D-Day while trying to imagine the fantastic year you’re going to have. You can’t wait but think about the moment you’ll be on the plane, there is no turning back and there probably won’t be because the person your family is hugging goodbye at the airport isn’t the same person they’re going to welcome few months later. So you just wait until that happens… While I’ll be waiting for my plane to take off next week, looking through the plane window, I’ll ask myself : What will this change in my life? And I will certainly have the answer next year, still looking through the plane window, whispering: EVERYTHING.

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T W O M O N T H S A F T E R L A N D I N G I N YO U R N E W P L AC E YO U N O W C A L L HOME. I won’t lie, it’s tough. It ain’t vacation. I could write about the roller-coaster feeling in the plane, after saying goodbye to your loved ones, where you’re just having your happiest and saddest moment at the same time, crying of sadness for the past you just left, and crying of joy for the future you’re eager/about to discover.

I could write about the feelings of anger and tiredness when the guard border pays too much attention to your visa, like if something was wrong and you feel the tears coming in your eyes, thinking, “What the heck is wrong now?” I could write about the feeling of loneliness when you settle in your new apartment, unpack and stare at the empty pieces of furniture, wanting to call your family but realizing the jet lag and that they are sleeping at the moment. I could write about the feeling of disorientation when going to the grocery store, wandering in the alleys, not recognizing a single product, not knowing what to buy. I could write about all the feelings of being overwhelmed and stressed because of administrative issues you have to deal with, and the tiniest thing like opening a bank account or purchasing a phone plan is a challenge. I could write about all of that. But I won’t focus on that. I won’t, because these feelings are just making you grow, you’re the one who wanted to go out of your comfort zone, no one made you do that. It was your choice. You wanted some challenges in your life. Challenge doesn’t mean complaining or that it isn’t worth it. I won’t write about all of these because they’re just a minor part of your new life. The reality, once it settles, is worth it. This is all worth it. You’re discovering this new country, making new friends, constantly exploring and trying everything, like a child is experiencing life, having a list for everything you want to try, everywhere you want to go and every slang you want to use. Walking in the city, head up because the buildings are so high, amazed by the music which is playing in the street, by the food and local specialties you’re trying and by the breathtaking landscape. You’re realizing that one year won’t be enough to try, discover, explore, and learn everything. You’ll need more than a year but you know you can’t stay longer than that. You’re going to have experiences you never could have imagined, dreamed of, nor had if you’d stayed in your home country. You’re going to meet people and constantly learn more and more everyday like a child : learning the language, the customs etc… I surfed with dolphins, cuddled flamingos, went on a road trip to Vegas, saw my favorite band in concert, hiked in one of the most beautiful National Parks where you just feel like an ant in front this breathtaking nature, and did so much more. One day you’ll wake up and say : this is home. This is where I want to be. You’re realizing that the worst parts of your year aren’t the struggles you’ve experienced when you came in, but it will be the return plane. Since you can’t stay as long as you would like, you decide to make the most of your time abroad. You’re going to enjoy every single month of your stay and each day more and more as if it was the last one you had to spend in this country. You experience living like a local. You notice your improvement in the language you’re surrounded by. Waking up after your first dream in that language is one of the best proud feeling you’ve ever have. Already two months have passed, there are seven left. When I am asked, “Do you feel homesick?” My only answer would be, “I just feel home”. But isn’t home with the ones you love?

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W O W. A L M O ST A Y E A R H AS PASS E D . T I M E H AS F LO W N S O FAST. You have your return flight ticket and there’s just one month left. How do you feel? Torn apart. Heartbroken. Happy. Depressed. You’re going through the exact same roller coaster of emotion you’ve experienced when you came – maybe even harder. I didn’t know you could have your heart broken by a city, a lifestyle, and a bunch of amazing friends. Here you are… One. Last. Month. Although you know you’ll definitely come back to visit, you know it’ll never be the same. I’ve surprised myself by wishing I never came; because the pain of going back to a “normal life”, to “home” seems just unbearable, and I’d rather not have experienced it all, nor met these amazing people who turned out to become my friends forever, who made me so happy while I had nothing, and to whom I am so grateful, because even just the thought of going back and leaving them seems insufferable. The fact is, I believe, I am just afraid. I am afraid to go back “home” – even though I’m not really sure where it is now. Afraid to go back to a culture that used to be mine and find out that it’s not familiar to me anymore. Afraid to feel too foreign for here, too foreign for there, and never enough for both. Because, yes, I do believe that living one year abroad, outside of your comfort zone, going to unreal places and meeting awesome people, changes you and shapes you – I hope, for the best. I am afraid to go back to the “routine”, because living abroad is a year of experiments and discoveries, and you start falling in love with this feeling of discovering, constantly exploring and being amazed by everything. I am also afraid to go back and realize how far away I am from my friends back there, how many things and big events I have really missed in their lives while I was away… So here, you’re reentering the phase of “the last time” – the last time you go to your favorite beach, watch the sun setting on the ocean, eat local food, go on a road trip, hang out with your friends … But this time is different, it really feels like “the last time”, because you can only wish you will be able to come back one day.

Flying back will be as if you’re waking up from a sweet and beautiful long dream, and you’re trying to go back to sleep to finish your dream. But it doesn’t work… and everything fades away instead…

Although leaving all my family and friends to go to America has been frightening, painful, and exciting, leaving all my family and friends I have made in America will be even more, because I can tell for sure that building a life for 19 years and leaving it for one year is way easier than building a life for one year and leaving it forever. May we meet again.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR My name is Morgane Turqui and I’m from Fréjus, France. I love traveling the world and exploring new countries, learning new languages and discovering new cultures. A fun fact about me is that I love playing violin, drums, and piano and I have perfect pitch.

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AVEELL PL PLAY AYLIS LISTT TTRRAV

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W I S H YO U W E R E H E R E T H E M I L K C A R TO N K I D S

SEDONA HOUNDMOUTH

WAV E S N I G H T C O LO R S

13 B E AC H E S L ANA DEL REY

MISSED CONNECTION THE HEAD AND THE HEART

THINK OF ENGLAND BE AR’S DEN

L A VIE EN ROSE L U C Y DAC U S

8 (C I R C L E ) BON IVER

TA K E M E H O M E , C O U N T RY R OA D S M O U N TA I N M A N

S H E ’S A M E R I C A N T H E 1975

ROME PHOENIX

BARCELONA GEORGE EZR A

BORDERLINE TA M E I M PA L A

WA L K O N T H E W I L D S I D E LO U R E E D

L E AV I N G B L U E S B O M B AY B I C YC L E C L U B

U N C AT E N A S Y LVA N E S S O

PA R I S M AG I C M A N

MILAN HIGH HIGHS

SONG FOR ZUL A PHOSPHORESCENT

VERONA GEOGRAPHER

MY KO N O S FLEE T FOXES

I PA N E M A S T I L L W O OZ Y, O M A R A P O L LO , E L U J AY

O N LY F O R YO U H E A R T L E S S B A S TA R D S

STOCKHOLM P E N N Y A N D S PA R R O W

T H E O N LY L I V I N G B OY I N N E W YO R K SIMON & GARFUNKLE

GHOSTRIDE CRUMB

HEROES DAV I D B O W I E

L ANDSLIDE F L E E T W O O D M AC

C H I C AG O SUFJAN STE VENS

YE LLOWSTONE S. CAREY

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LIVE, TRAVEL, ADVENTURE, BLESS, AND DON’T BE SORRY. -Jack Kerouac

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SONDER

n. the realization that each random passerby is living a life as vivid and complex as your own—populated with their own ambitions, friends, routines, worries and inherited craziness—an epic story that continues invisibly around you like an anthill sprawling deep underground, with elaborate passageways to thousands of other lives that you’ll never know existed, in which you might appear only once, as an extra sipping coffee in the background, as a blur of traffic passing on the highway, as a lighted window at dusk. The Dictionary of Obscure Sorrows

SONDER // Edition 2

Articles inside

Isn't Home With The Ones You Love?

Travel Journaling

Top 5 Places to Visit in Italy

The Globetrotting Photographer

How to Afford World Travel

Wild Western Road Trip

The World Needs Dreamers

Five Zero Waste Travel Essentials

A Year in Australia

Window Seat

14 Unusual Things to Pack

Guide to Quebec City

How to Master Group Travel

Sherbet Skies, Oregon Coast