ISSUE 01
walk.
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walk. ©2018 Westerdals Oslo ACT
Westerdals Oslo ACT Campus Fjerdingen Christian Kroghs gate 32 0158 Oslo
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SPECIAL THANKS
1 st edition, January 2018
Markus Amundsen Graphic Design by Sondre A. T. Bye
Kristine Arntzen Simen Fauske
PAPER Scandia Gultonet A3 150gm
Yann Charles M Bougaran 2
Stefan Ellmer Grafisk Design 16
T YPE FS Clerkenwell by Philip Garnham and Jason Smith Rhode Condensed by David Berlow and Roger Black FreightText Pro by Joshua Darden
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Interest for sports shoe collecting, or rather interest in sneaker culture, has blossomed from being the preserve of hardcore ‘’sneaker-freaks’’ to a full-blown mainstream phenomenon: you can’t walk into a sports shoe store these days without being confronted with a range of fresh designs, old skool favorites, limited edition models and so-called ‘rare’ shoes, all in a myriad of colorways. Sneakers have moved out from the sports arena into popular culture as a fashion staple witch simultaneously transcends race and class, yet defines who you are in today’s urban tribes.
This fact has not been missed by the leading brands, which nurture the collectors’ market by very carefully releasing or reissuing certain designs or colorways in selected territories, or by collaborating with cult urban fashion labels such as Stßssy or Evisu to produce limited edition shoes that often sell out within hours of their release.
H N S A Sneakers are designed in all different shapes and sizes. However, when it comes to the crunch, they all feature the basic parts needed to produce a great shoe. On these pages is a guide to explain the purpose of those parts.
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ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
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ANKLE COLLAR OR ANKLE SUPPORT The ankle collar is reinforced or padded for
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comfort and support. This is particularly true of high-top basketball shoes.
HEEL PATCH AND SIDE PANEL This is a prime spot that is usually branded by the manufacturer.
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EYELETS Eyelets - or eye stays as they are sometimes called - are used for either speed lacing or for
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added stability.
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HEEL This is at the rear og the shoe. Manufacturers always concentrate on cushioning is this part of the shoe.
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FOREFOOT This is the section at the front of the shoe, just under the ball of the foot. The manufacturers designe flexible grooves here to ease movement.
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TONGUE The tongue - or on more modern shoes, the ‘inner sleeve’ - is there to add support and to
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provide the foot with custom fit.
THE TOE BOX This area is usually perforated if leather has been used. On running shoes, this section is
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made of nylon. It’s a well-ventilated area to minimize heat.
SHOELACES These hold the shoe in place.
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INNERSOLE The innersole - sometimes called the sockliner - is there to provide extra
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cushioning. It features a heel cup and arch support. These two features provide stability.
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MIDSOLE This is the section between the upper and the
OUTSOLE
outsole. This section of the shoe is where a
Hard-wearing rubber is generally used here.
majority of the shoes technology is applied
Brands design different outsoles for different
or encapsulated.
shoe purposes. Most basketball shoes have a pivot point: a circular pattern found in the forefoot. This part of the shoes is either stitched or bonded to the upper.
NIKE 14
8 REASONS
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THE STORY
20 SWOOSH 24
THINKER HATFIELD
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TOBIE HATFIELD
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THE TEN
MIDSOLE 56 SNEAKERHEADS 60
WHY PEOPLE
BUY SNEAKERS
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INTERVIEW /
KRISTINE ARNTZEN
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INTERVIEW /
SIMEN FAUSKE
ADIDAS
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8 REASONS
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THE STORY
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THREE STRIPES
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KANYE WEST
102 THE TEN
NIKE 14
8 REASONS
18
THE STORY
20 SWOOSH 24
THINKER HATFIELD
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TOBIE HATFIELD
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THE TEN
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REASONS WHY NIKE IS BETTER THAN ADIDAS 17
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Nike has the most dynamic logo on the planet. Although it was famously designed by the student Carolyn Davidson for a few bucks, the Swoosh is one of the best logos of all time. It’s simple, looks great on a shoe or anything else and suggests activity, arousal and victory at the same time – perfect for a sports brand.
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Nike started with running. There’s no point in denying that the sneaker game has slowly shifted its focus to running, even in the US. And regardless of all that Jordan hype, Nike started out as a running company – and not just track-and-field running. Co-founder Bill Bowerman recognized the potential of “jogging” in the early ‘60s, and published a book with that title in 1966. His ideas led to the creation of a running shoe that would ultimately be named the “Cortez” in 1968.
Nike has Jordan. Despite its roots in running, Nike has been synonymous with basketball – and basketball is Jordan, to some extent. Together they formed the cornerstones for the rise of a global sneaker culture. Although adidas has had successful basketball shoes a decade before, it was his Airness who popularized sneakers as a fashion and style item. The Air Jordan 1 was also designed by Peter Moore, almost a decade before the same Peter Moore would design the “three bars logo” which is now synonymous with adidas Equipment.
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Nike has Back to the Future. Nike’s use of this movie wasn’t just smart product placement but arguably the most brilliant and long-term marketing move of the millennium, spanning three decades in the rollout. First: presenting the Nike Bruin in part 1 in 1985 – in one of the most iconic pop-cultural movies ever. Second: Fictionally imagining how sneakers would evolve 30 years later in part 2 and introducing the Nike Mag. Third: actually releasing that shoe as predicted in the movie – finally with power-lacing and endorsement by Michael J. Fox – no other company even comes close.
TEXT: Sneaker-Magasine.com
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Nike owns basketball. Not because of names like Michael Jordan, Lebron James or Kevin Durant but because the Swoosh owns the category – today. With a market share of 95% in the U.S. there’s no way around the fact, although adidas is making a lot of right moves at the moment.
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Nike owns collaborations. Although you will find single collaborations from other companies dating back to the 1970s or even before, Nike invented the collab game as we know it. From late ‘90s releases like the Wu-Tang Clan X Nike Dunk High or all of the Stüssy collabs from the early 2000s up to the whole Nike SB program including all the Supreme Dunks – Nike got the ball rolling.
Nike has the most famous designers. Even beyond the famous architect-turned-sneaker-designer Tinker Hatfield, there are other designers whose names have become synonymous with sneaker culture – like Bruce Kilgor (Air Force 1), Sergio Lozano (Air Max 95), Eric Avar (Air Foamposite One) or even Tinker’s own brother Tobie Hatfield (Nike Free). Fragment Design’s Hiroshi Fujiwara should also be mentioned because of his close ties with Nike.
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Nike has the best ads in the archive. Marketing has always been Nike’s strong suit. Just look through their archive and relive the gems they’ve produced over the decades – from beautiful vintage running ads to the ever-so-classic “Bo Knows” campaign. This is brand-building at its best.
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Nike History 1964 In the winter of 1964 in Oregon, USA...
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TEXT: Sneakers: The complete collector’s guide
THE BEGINNING
Nike’s seeds were sown I Oregon, the USA, by Phil Knight, a middle-distance runner and accounting student at the University og Oregon, and his coach Bill Bowerman. Their friendship changed not only their relationship to sports, but also the technology og producing sports shoes and apparel, and the way in which sports brands promote themselves.
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n 1962 giving completed his studien, Phil Knight went on a trip around the world. During his stay in Japan, he took up an ambition he had shared with Bill Bowerman - to start importing Japanese running shoes
at affordable prices into the US. Knight contacted Onitsuka Tiger. When he
In 1972, following a split from Onitsuka Tiger, the Moon Shoe debuted
was put on the spot and asked about his company, hu bluffed his way through
at the US Olympic Trials. A year later, the middle distance runner
and said that he represented Bue Ribbon Sports (BRS) - the first 200 pairs
Steve Prefontaine became the first major athlete to wear Nike shoes.
arrived in the US in December 1963. This was a turning point, and with Knight
In 1974, Bowerman dreamt of a new innovation for the outsole,
and Bowerman having invested $500 each, The company rapidly gained a
made by pouring rubber into waffle iron to create a waffle outsole.
great reputation with college athletes. Before long, Bowerman had a dream
By 1978, Nike had started to sell its products internationally. Kenyan
of ways to improve the design of Onitsuka shoes, and Knight was dreaming
marathon runner Henry Reno broke four world records wearing Nike
of how much more profitable it would be to produce and sell their own shoes.
shoes. Tennis ace John McEnroe started to wear Nike shoe products,
In 1971, a company employee, Jeff Johnson,
broadening the brand’s visual appeal in the tennis arena for many
thought up the name Nike (apparently while he
years to come. In 1979, the Tailwind shoe became the first running
slept), after the greek goddess og victory. Caroline
shoe to be launched with a patented air sole. In 1985, Michael Jordan
Davidson, who met Knight when she was a student
signed with Nike as a rookie, and a whole new line of shoe apparel
attending the same university, was asked to design
was created. The Air Jordan basketball shoe became one of the
a logo. She came up with the now world- renowned
world’s most popular sneakers. The Nike Air Max was brought out in
swoosh - the Nike name and brand were born.
1987, along with Nike’s first multipurpose shoe, the Air Trainer. Both catapulted Nike ahead of the competition. The brand has continued to be a leader in sports, design and innovation, and has been endorsed by many of the world’s most famous sports stars, including Andre Agassi, Ronaldo and Tiger Woods. Nike’s strengths are threefold: an undoubted intuitive sense of what athletes want and need (something that goes all the way back to the track in Oregon), a commitment to technical innovation, and an attitude and outlook towards branding and marketing that has changed the way sports shoes and apparel are promoted forever.
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TEXT: Sneakers: The complete collector’s guide
THE SWOOSH
The Nike Swoosh is a corporate trademark created in 1971 by Carolyn Davidson, while she was a graphic design student at Portland State University. It was here that she met Phil Knight, who was at the time teaching accounting classes at the university. Knight had overheard that Davidson was in search of extra funds in order for her to take oil painting
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classes, so he offered to pay Davidson to do some freelance work for his company, Blue Ribbon Sports (later Nike, Inc.) Knight offered to pay Davidson $2 per hour (about $14 per hour today) for the work that laid down for the historical Nike Swoosh logo. They ultimately selected the mark now known globally as the Swoosh. “I don’t love it,” Knight told her, “but I think it will grow on
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I don’t love (the logo), but I think it will grown on me.
me.” Once the choice was made, Davidson asked for more time in order to refine the work she had done on the Swoosh, however, Knight stated
Brand Image
that the company had production deadlines to meet and needed the
One of the most recognized brand logos in the world, the Swoosh, has
logo as soon as possible. For her services, the company paid her $35
made Nike one of the most successful brands and most highly valued. The
($206 in 2015 dollars), citing that she worked 17.5 hours on creating the
Nike brand alone is valued at a worth of $26 billion. Nike spends about
Swoosh, although Davidson claims that she is certain she worked more
10% of its annual revenue on advertising and promotions. Nike has made
hours on the design. In September 1983, Knight gave Davidson a golden
great use of the Swoosh logo in athlete endorsements. The endorsements
Swoosh ring with an embedded diamond and some Nike stock (the exact
of Romanian tennis player Ilie Nastase and distance runner Steve
amount remains secret) to express his gratitude. Davidson claims to
Prefontaine kicked off Nike’s brand sponsorships and today they endorse
this day that she is not a millionaire but lives comfortably.
hundreds of athletes. Nike’s endorsements of Michael Jordan, LeBron
Nike co-founder, Phil Knight, was adamant that his company’s new
James and Kobe Bryant in basketball, Cristiano Ronaldo in soccer, Tiger
logo be a simple design that is fluid and conveys motion and speed. The
Woods in golf, and Roger Federer and Rafael Nadal in tennis are among the
logo is also said to symbolize the wing of the famous Greek Goddess
15 biggest athlete endorsement deals in sports history.
of Victory, Nike. When first released, the design was displayed in a variety of colors in order to stand out on the track from other shoe manufacturers. Nike then traditionally used the red and white color
Nike’s Heritage
palette on its logo for much of its history. The red is meant to exemplify
Nike is the winged goddess of victory in Greek mythology, who sat at the
passion, energy and joy, while the white color represents nobility, charm
side of Zeus in Olympus. Nike is said to have presided over history’s earliest
and purity. Until 1994, the official corporate logo for Nike featured the
battlefields as she flew around rewarding the victors with glory and fame,
name NIKE in Futura Bold, all-cap font, cradled within the Swoosh. In
symbolized by a wreath of leaves. She was often found next to the goddess
1995, Nike began using the stand-alone Swoosh as its corporate logo
of wisdom, Athena, who is said to never put up with defeat. In statues and
as a form of debranding, and continues to use it that way today, while
paintings Nike is represented as a woman with wings dressed in a flowing
also using a simple black color palette for the Swoosh.
robe, with a wreath in her outstretched hand. To represent her role as the messenger of victory, she is shown with the staff of Hermes. In Athens, the statue of Nike is portrayed without wings and is called Nike Apteron (Wingless Victory). Nike’s wings were removed from the statue so she would not fly away, as the Athenians believed doing so would indicate her permanent stay in the city.
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Tinker Hatfield
THE LEGEND
‘‘ ‘‘
I think that the art of marketing, the art of promotion and the art of storytelling is definitely elevated and we have to get better every year.
T
inker Hatifeld (born April 30, 1952, Hillsboro, Oregon), is an American designer of numerous Nike athletic shoe models, including the Air Jordan 3 through Air Jordan 15, the twentieth anniversary Air Jordan XX, the Air Jordan XXIII, the 2010 (XXV), the 2015 Air Jordan XX9 (XXIX), and other athletic sneakers including the world’s first “cross training” shoes, the Nike Air Trainer.
Hatfield oversees Nike’s “Innovation Kitchen”. He is Nike’s Vice President for Design and Special Projects. For his many innovative designs and numerous creations over more than three decades, Hatfield is considered a legend of design. Hatfield joined Nike in 1981, and in 1985 started working on shoe design. He realized that his architectural skills could be applied to shoes. Hatfield was also published for the architectural design of his Portland, Oregon home. He claims to have designed the crosstrainer as a “multi-sport” shoe when he realized people at his Oregon gym brought various sneakers with them for diverse activities such as basketball, aerobics, weightlifting and
Early life
jogging. In 1987, Tinker Hatfield designed the Air Max 1 Running Shoe after visiting the
Hatfield grew up in Halsey in Linn County, Oregon, “son of the
Centre Georges Pompidou; and the Infrared Air Max 90 shoe, first released in 1990. In
late Tinker Hatfield Sr., a legendary figure in Oregon coaching
2014, Hatfield indicated that Nike would unveil a shoe with power-lacing technology,
circles who won three straight state Class AA titles during his
as worn by Marty McFly in the 1989 film Back to the Future Part II, which partially
son’s time at Central Linn.” Tinker Jr. was an all-state selection
takes place in the year 2015. He also created the graphic design on the basketball court
as a basketball player and football player, and he was an
at the Matthew Knight Arena at the University of Oregon; the facility opened in 2011.
All-American in track and field at Central Linn High School,
Hatfield’s younger brother, Tobie Hatfield, joined Nike in 1990 as a senior engineer.
leading to him being named the “1970 Johnny Carpenter
In 2013, Hatfield worked on both Nike and Jordan brand concept car designs for Gran
Prep Athlete of the Year” for Oregon high schoolers. He then
Turismo 6. Hatfield was profiled in the first season of the Netflix docu-series Abstract:
attended the University of Oregon, where he ran track for
The Art of Design.
coach and Nike co-founder Bill Bowerman, and at one time had the pole-vault record at the school. Academically, he studied architecture and graduated with a B.Arch. degree from the University of Oregon School of Architecture.
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‘‘When you sit down it can be anything, a c a tall building or a sh what you design is re everything that you’ your life previous to
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to design something, car, a toaster, a house, hoe, what you draw or eally a culmination of ’ve seen and done in that point.’’ - Tinker Hatfield
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Tobie Hatfield Who is Tobie Hatfield? Tobie Hatfield remembers his first conversation with Phil Knight
The first notable project he worked on was the gold track shoe worn by
(co-founder of Nike). Hatfield had just been hired by Nike and he asked
Michael Johnson at the 1996 Atlanta Olympics, in which he won two gold
Knight what exactly he expected from him. “I want you to take risks, but
medals in the 200 and 400 sprints – this was the design that jolted his
don’t take stupid risks,” Knight said, according to Hatfield, brother of Nike
career off to a great start! I doubt they’ve ever had this discussion because
designer Tinker Hatfield – that’s right, they’re brothers!
the last thing you ever want to talk about with your siblings is work, but
Twenty-six years later, Hatfield is still a Nike employee, and his job
one would like to think that at some point in their lives Tinker and Tobie
hasn’t changed that much. Except for the fact that he’s now athlete projects
Hatfield have gotten into bragging competitions about who has designed
innovator, which is a long way of saying he takes BIG risks. The Hatfield
better and more influential shoes. As many of you know, Tinker Hatfield
duo were both pole vaulters, along with Bill Bowerman (founder of NIKE)
is a pure genius when it comes to designing shoes like the Air Jordan and
who was his coach at the University of Oregon. Bowerman managed to
Air Max silhouettes. While Tobie is no slouch after dropping the Nike
make Hatfield his first pair of custom track shoes. Bowerman took X-rays
FREE (think about the hundreds of versions and colourways of FREE out
of his feet so he knew where the best place would be to place the spikes.
there). It’s safe to say this sibling duo will go down as one of the greats
That was his first brush with the Nike model of the designer working very
for Nike and their design innovation.
closely with the athlete to improve their equipment and performance, albeit as an athlete. But seeing Bowerman work like that first hand left an incredibly strong impression on Hatfield. After college Hatfield continued with his pole vaulting career for a couple of years but after several injuries later he decided to move into coaching. Hatfield joined Nike in 1990, and began working with materials initially, then shoe development, then engineering and after several years he got involved with design.
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The answer always lie inside the athlete. 31
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ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1972
NIKE CORTEZ
Originally called the Tiger Corsair, this model was later renamed the Cortez in 1972, after the long partnership between Nike - known as Blue Ribbon Sports at the time - and Onitsuka Tiger broke down. Over the years, the Cortez has also undergone several design changes. The original model featured a heel pull and was produced in nylon and suede in the 1970’s. Nike also released a version for women, the Senorita Cortez, which had a narrow rounded toe-piece and fewer shoelace holes than the regular Cortez. An edition with a leather snake-skin swoosh and Escape models were then released on to the market in the late 1980’s. The Cortez was reissued in Europe in the mid1990’s. In 2003, Nike tried something new using the Internet: the Nike ID system. This gave consumer the opportunity to choose their own Cortez colorway online from a whole range of color combinations.
COLOR THIS SHOE
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
COLOR THIS SHOE
1974
NIKE WAFFLE TRAINER
There were two versions og the Waffle Trainer: the first edition was launched in 1974; the second version, which came out one year later, featured a flared outsole for better stabilization. In 1976, the UCLA colorwaynwas introduced. It was reissued in 2002. The Waffle Trainer also featured the waffle-iron outsole - the result of an experiment with a waffle iron by Bill Bowerman. This type of outsole was first used on the Moon Shoe.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1982
NIKE AIR FORCE 1
The original version of this model was inspired by hiking shoes, but it has exceeded all expectations. It didn’t have a preforated toe box but did feature a mesh side panel. As well as being the most functional basketball shoe at that time, it was the first Nike basketball shoe to feature the full-lenght Nike Air Sole. Some people saw the strap as a mere fashion accessory, but it played an extremely important role. The strap made the fit secure and was used to prevent ankle injury. At first this model only produced in a high and a low; the mid version of the shoe was produced a couple of years later. The Air Force 1 has become popular on the hip-hip scene, partly owing to the huge range of colorways that have been produced over the years. There have also been numerous limited edition collaborative models - from Poerto Rico to Los Angeles - and countless colorways variations.
COLOR THIS SHOE
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
COLOR THIS SHOE
1985
NIKE DUNK
Before the NBA courts were blessed with the Nike Air Jordan I, the Nike Dunk fitted the bill. The Dunk has been around since 1985, and it has been brought out in a multitude of basketball team colourways. It was worn during the NCAA basketball tournaments of 1985-86 by universities such as Syracuse, Michigan, Maryland, UNLV and Arizona. The Dunk could be coordinated with any team basketba 11 kit. It ca me with two different coloured sets of laces and a matching shoebox, and it was one of the origi na I catalysts of the colourway explosion. The original Dunk was - and still is - one of the most prized possessions for a sneaker connoisseur. High demand influenced Nike’s decision to reissue the model in 1998, since when there have been many new colourways. Special collaborations and regional releases have made the Dunk stronger than ever.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1985
NIKE AIR JORDAN 1
This model was produced for basketball pro Michael Jordan, and its launch started off a whole generation of Air Jordan shoes. The red/ black colourway broke the NBA league colour rules, and the shoes were banned. Michael only wore the red/ black three times, but the ban actually fuelled Air Jordan mania. Nike put together a new colourway, which included more white. The winged basketball logo was there to stay!
COLOR THIS SHOE
SHOES AR WEAR SN
RE BORING NEAKERS.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
COLOR THIS SHOE
1987
NIKE AIR MAX
The Nike Air Max had the Nike Air cushining unit on full display. Seeing is believing, and the transparent window in the rear of the shoe proved a hit! The sneaker’s upper was made of nylon mesh and synthetic suede. Since 1987, the Air Max has been produced in a variety of colorways and fabric combinations, which have given it a contemporary flavour. The first reissue was in 1992 and signalled a change in design: the midsole and outsole used in this updated version were taken from the Air Max 3 (now called the Air Max 90). All the shoes were leather, but in 1995 Nike brought out nylon reissues. Then in 1996, the swoosh on the side became smaller. Nike was experimenting with the formula at that time. In 2003, two special versions were created with the help of Japanbased sneakerspecialist store Atmos. The model continues to evolve to this day.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1991
NIKE AIR HUARACHE
It’s innovative design and fit were incredible: the exposed sock and minimal upper were the only visible technologies. This is what was called and became the ‘Huarache fit’ and was at the heart of Air Haurache’s appeal. The combination of the stretch grip neoprene and Spandex provided a foot-hugging fit. The inspiration for the concept of the ‘Huarache fit’ came from the old Native American sandal called Huarache. The only Nike branding on the running shoe was the large ‘Nike’ lettering on the rubber heel strap. Nike also produced limited edition versions of the Air Huarache in 1992. The came in earth-toned colors with the addition of a nubuck upper, which made this version ideal for the winter climate. This was the last in the serien of colorways of the Air Huarache in the 90’s. In 2000, the Air Huarache in the original green/ royal blue colorway hit the market once more.
COLOR THIS SHOE
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
COLOR THIS SHOE
1995
NIKE AIR MAX 95
Designer Sergio Lozano drew inspiration from the human body for the Air Max 95 (or ‘95s’ as most sneakerheads call them): the midsole represents the spine, then the graduated panels are the muscle fibres, the loopholes / straps are the ribs, and the mesh is the skin, the shoe became a real huamn shoe. The shoes featured minimal branding with the Nike swoosh only making an appearance on the rear side panel. The first colorway released for this shoe was the black / neon yellow / white, which was like no other Air Max previously produced. The neon yellow helped emphasize the visible Air Units, and the shoe boasted an Air Unit in the forefoot (the front of the shoe). This in itself was something new and exciting, and made the Air Max 95 stand out from the rest of the series. The technical-looking aesthetics of the upper gives the impression of a serious running shoe. The 25 PSI air pressure reading on the Air Units and outsole cemented that impression. The 95’s produced between 1995 and 1996 came in their own specially designed box, with the Air Max 95 logo on the tongue of the shoe. The 95’s produced after 1996 do not have the air pressure readings on the Air Units. One of the main reasons for the popularity of the 95’s is the number of colorways that have been produced over the years - more than 150 to date. This experimentation with new colors and new fabrics has kept the Air Max 1995’s alive for avid Air Max enthusiasts to this day.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1997
NIKE AIRZOOM SPIRIDON
This model was one of the first Nike running shoes to incorporate Nike’s Air Zoom system, which brings the foot closer the the ground, enhancing performance and providing cushioning. The mesh upper and fish-skin-like swoosh were immediate head turners. Some cool details on the Air Zoom Spiridon included a metallic flip on the midsole and outsole.
COLOR THIS SHOE
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
COLOR THIS SHOE
1997
NIKE AIR MAX PLUS
Over the years, many color variations of the Air Max Plus were produced for different countries - so much so that it became difficult to keep track of them all. The US editions tended to carry lighter colors, while the version of the shoe that were deigned for the Asian market were darker. Nike realized the popularity of certain colorways and has reissued several of them. For example, the original ‘Hyper blue’ edition has reappeared recently with a slightly different toe-guard, and the original black edition was reissued with patent leather in place of the regular suede areas. Nike has brought out variations on the basic models, including Air Max Plus 2, 3, 4 and 5, and the slip-on variant of the first model, but none of them were particularly successful. Although this shoe established itself as a firm favorite in London, where it was associated with hip-hop and garage scenes, it failed to achieve the same level of success in the US.
MIDSOLE 56 SNEAKERHEADS 60
WHY PEOPLE BUY
SNEAKERS 64
INTERVIEW /
KRISTINE ARNTZEN
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INTERVIEW /
SIMEN FAUSKE
‘‘SNEAKERHEADS’’ A
sneakerhead is a person who collects, trades, or admires sneakers as a hobby. A sneakerhead may also be highly experienced in distinguishing between real and fake replica sneakers. Sneaker collecting is a hobby often manifested by the use and collection of shoes made for particular sports, particularly basketball and skateboarding.
Sneakerhead subculture The sneakerhead subculture originated in America during the late 1980s and
The birth of sneakerhead culture in the United States came in the 1980s
had gone global by the end of the 1990s. Hardcore sneaker collectors in
and can be attributed to two major sources: basketball, specifically the
Britain, Europe, and the US buy online and go to outlets, sneaker events,
emergence of Michael Jordan and his eponymous Air Jordan line of shoes
swapmeets, parties, and gatherings in search of rare, deadstock, vintage, and
released in 1985, and the growth of hip hop music. The boom of signature
limited edition shoes to invest in. Originally popular among urban black
basketball shoes during this era provided the sheer variety necessary for
youth and teenage white skateboarders, by the 21st century, it had also
a collecting subculture, while the hip-hop movement gave the sneakers
gained a sizeable Asian following especially in Malaysia, India, and China.
their street credibility as status symbols. The sneakerhead culture has
Common contemporary sneakerhead apparel includes Nike Air
emerged in the United Kingdom and the Czech Republic in the last decade.
Jordans, Air Yeezy’s, Nike SBs, DC Spartans, Supra Sky-Tops, Vans, designer sportswear, Converse Modern sneakers, True Religion slim fit jeans, backwards baseball caps, red high-tops with fluorescent or reflective white stars, Skullcandy headphones, leggings, slouched crew socks, and Keds (for girls), Aviator sunglasses, waffle plaid shirts, throwback basketball singlets, tracksuits, Nike Elite socks, cosmic print T-shirts, hoodies,
their shoelaces in unconventional patterns, including cross-ways, laddered, and staggered. As of 2016, the most desirable colors for sneakers and
with late 1980s new wave music, the Michael Jordan era of basketball, and old-school hip hop.
TEXT: Wikipedea
apparel were black, red, and white due to their longstanding association
ILLUSTRATION: KIM JUNGYOUN
and Nixon watches. Sneakerheads often customise their shoes by tying
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SNEAKERHEADDICTIONARY
"Ice" Sneakers with transparent soles "Instacop" Impulse buying "Kicks" Shoes "L" Loss/unable to purchase "Lit up" Great
"Nib" Unworn, new in box
"OG" Original, derived from the term "original gangster"
"Quickstrikes" Limited edition sneakers and prototypes with a regional
early release, especially Nikes, and are highly desirable status symbols for American sneaker collectors.
"Reseller" A person who buys large quantities of unworn popular
sneakers to sell at a profit
"Sitting" Referring to sneakers produced in large quantities that
goes unsold
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"Steezy" Stylish "Unauthorished" Counterfeit "W" Win/successful purchase "Wild" Amazing "Yeezy" Sneakers designed by rapper Kanye West
"Bred" Black and red sneakers "B Grade" Shop-worn seconds sold at a discount "Coke whites" Pristine white sneakers "Crispy" Clean "Cop" (used as a verb) - as in to purchase or acquire "Deadstock" Pair of sneakers that has never been worn
"Dope" Fashionable
"Feezy" Fake yeezys
"Fire" Very good
"Fresh" New and cool "Fugazi" Fake "Goat" Greatest of all time "Garms" Clothes "Grail" Very rare sneakers, as in Holy Grail
"GR" General release, or common
"Heat" Rare sneakers thrat draw looks
"Hypebeast" Trandies who only buy the latest releases. Hypebeasts
only buy whatever the celebrities are wearing and tend to copy people like Kanye West
“Jumpman� Basketball player Michael Jordan
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WHY PEOPLE BUY SNEAKERS Why do people buy so many sneakers?
O
Sneaker market today
ne of the main reasons why people buy sneakers is to, of course, wear
A lot of people in today’s world have their own specific and unique
them. Some buy to collect and some people, well buy them just to
purchasing behaviour, especially with branded products. Brands not only
sell them back. People nowadays use sneakers as a form of investment.
symbolize the company, but it also symbolizes the buing choice of the
Most people tro to purchase the most popular sneakers that are difficult to
consumer. Nowadays, costumers buy products because of the brand and
obtain in the market just til sell them at a higher price point. For example,
not the actual needed use of the product. One of the most popular product
the Nike’s Air Yeezy Red October retailed at a price of $245 and were sold
that people purchase today is sneakers. Brands of the sneakers is often a
out in minutes. Now they resell for an average price of $2,700, with $36,900
huge factor where it influences the buyer’s final choice. I say this because
being the most paid for a shoe.The thing is, these types of releases happen
I am one of the costumers who buy sneakers based on the brand and the
every Saturday and every single one of these shoes have a significant
reputation and not the actual aesthetic and usage of the product.
meaning to it. These releases usually cause people to camp outside before the release date, some even camp a week prior the release.
Owning the most popular sneakers in the market was not important to me at all, because there were no influential factors that swayed me
The sneaker marketplace holds the almighty ‘sneakerheads’, people who
into buying multiple sneakers. Now living in the social and digital media
collect sneakers as a passion. Sneakerheads of sneakers are basically the
world, there are influences wherever we go. If people place out two different
equivalent of the iPhone fanboys of Apple. Nike, which includes the Jordan
branded shoes (Walmart and Jordan Brand) with the same exact aesthetic,
brand sold over $1.2 billion worth of their sneakers and since sneakerheads
people will chose the more well-known brand because that is how much
love Jordan’s so much, the secondary market for these shoes are about a
brands affect consumer behaviour and its ongoing involvement throughout
third. That means, sneakerheads made $380 million just behind Nike and
the purchasing process.
has a net income of $209 million. This tells us that the sneakerhead made almost double of what Sketchers made just from RESELLING sneakers in the secondary market, Nike’s customers made more money than their closest competitor. The only reason sneakers go for so much is because they are rare and hard to purchase, but that is how resellers in the sneaker marketplace make their money.
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ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
TEXT: The Sneaker Market Magazine
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and the sales started surging like crazy. Selling out worldwide within week.
out. For example, Kanye wore som Adidas Ultra Boost in a picture one time
ambassador for Adidas, as ridiculous as it sounds, whatever he wears will sell
is because of celebrity endorsements, such as Kanye West. Since he is an
they buy their shoes. Recently for Adidas, a huge part of the sale increase
shoes, a lot of people want to be like their favourite basketball stars, so
the legend Michael Jordan wore them back in the day. Same for basketball
as difficult. For Jordan Brand sneakers, it is obvious why it is so hard to get,
to find out the shoe you want is out of stock. For online releases, is is just
up to entry because they ‘ran out’ of sneakers. Imagine lining for 8-10 hours
specific sneakers. At times, employees have even denied the people lining
consumers usually line up overnight just to have a chance to purchase the
minutes. When stores offer a ‘first come, first serve’ basis for shoe releases,
being sold by re-sellers because they typically sell out everywhere in
just to purchase the products and they are usually extremely pricey when
difficult process. These products usually require you to sign up for a raffle
Purchasing sneakers, especially the more popular ones require a long and
Rise of the sneaker culture
TEXT: The Sneaker Market Magazine
ILLUSTRATION: Kody Mason
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their advertisement towards social media because the social usage behaviour for the current generation is so high.
world rising at the same time. A lot of today’s large brand names like Nike, Adidas and Vans, are leaning most of
social consumers are rapidly growing in todays world and it is not declining anytime soon with the digital media
alternative shoe that no one knows about. Social media plays such a huge role when it comes to sneakers because
example, when people are looking for a shoe to play basketball in, they look for the most popular one, rather than an
The motivation direction of buying sneakers is to look for the brand rather than the actual product. For
power, status, or affiliation, rather than a need to survive.
sneakers is starting to go from a want to a need. This type of need is called a psychogenic need, a need to show
Every website and every street corner, you will see an ad. The consumers behaviour when they look to purchase
Now that we live in a highly advertised and digital world, we see promotional events and campaigns everywhere.
the motivational process. There are so many marketing campaigns around us that influences our buying decision.
Nowadays, there are many factors that result to the consumer behaviour on purchasing sneakers. The first reason is
Sneaker trends
Kristine Arntzen
INTERVIEW
WHAT IS YOUR NAME, AGE AND WHAT DO YOU DO FOR A LIVING? Kristine Arntzen, 21 years old, working for a musical festival.
DO YOU COLLECT SNEAKERS? Both yes and no. I collect sneakers that I have an interest for. But I don’t look at myself as a typical sneakerhead.
WHY SNEAKERS? First an foremost they are nice and comfortable to walk in, hehe. In a way it’s because of the fabrics and the colors and how it goes with my own style. And of course because of the history, I’v always been fond of historical stuff. I really like retro sneakers.
HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN COLLECTING SNEAKERS? I would say for the last three years. But I have always been into it, I remember the first pair I had which was a pair of Adidas Superstar that I got in the fourth grade in primary school. I had those for many years actually.
AT WHAT AGE DID YOU PICK UP AN INTEREST FOR SNEAKERS? It was in a young age. I’v always had sneakers, like I’v always been wearing Vans, but when I was younger, sneakers and stuff like that wasn’t really a thing where I came from.
DO YOU FEEL THE SNEAKERS ARE WORTH THE MONEY? Yes, but I have a kinda personal limit at 2.5k because I try to be reasonable. I try to keep myself to buy because of quality and what they lend themselves to and stuff like that and
PHOTO: Markus Amundsen
not just for the hype, but of course I also can be affected by it.
WHAT’S THO MOST YOU HAVE SPEND ON A PAIR OF SNEAKERS? Oh shit, 2700kr, hehe
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IF YOU HADE TO PICK 3 FAVORITE SNEAKERS, WHICH MODELS? Oh shit! THat’s a tough one. Okey, some shoes that I’v worn out several times and bought many times, the Vans Skate High. And Air Jordan 1, which I finally managed to get on Junkyard for 500kr, KAPOW! And of course Air More Up Tempo, I saw them a couple of months ago, I worked so hard to get them and when I saw them in the Lightbone colorway I thought ‘oh shit, I’ll do anything to get them’, they are my babies. I’m also very fond of Adidas, I like the boost sole and stuff. But if I had to pick 3 model it would have to be Vans Skate High, Air Jordan 1 and Air More Up Tempo.
DO YOU FEEL MORE EXCLUSIV WHEN BUING EXPENSIVE SNEAKERS? Yes. I think that it’s the same as if you buy something that a bit extra nice that you’r very happy with. I also think it’s fun trying to get a pair og sneakers that’s a bit more special than the average shoe, a shoe that not everyone would use normally. If people that aren’t interested in sneakers would have a look at my sneaker collecting they would probably say something like ‘ what the hell are these shoes’.
DO YOU COLLECT SNEAKERS TO LOOK AT OR TO WEAR? I wear them. I remember when I got a hold of the Yeezy Copper V2. When I got those I realized that it was really hard to take them outside of the box and use them. But I ended up using them a lot. But to answer your question, yes I wear my sneakers.
WHAT WOULD YOU SAY TO SOMEONE THAT SAYS COLLECTING SNEAKER IS A WASTE OF TIME? Fuck you! Haha, no, bu I understand that people do not understand it, but let’s look at what other people collect, for example designer bags and stuff like that, where people pay 30-80k for a bag. But for me it’s fine, I’m very fond of that type og culture.
DO YOU THINK YOU’L EVER BE FINISHED COLLECTING SNEAKERS? No, I don’t think so. I always think I’m finished, but then I always find another pair that I really want. There is always some shoes that stand out that I would give a little extra to get.
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PHOTO: Markus Amundsen
PHOTO: Markus Amundsen
ARE YOU LOYAL TO ONE BRAND? I wouldn’t say that I’m 100% loyal, I like both Vans, Nike and Adidas. But if I had to pick one brand it would have to be Nike because thats what I’v grown up with.
ARE THERE A SPECIFIC MODEL YOU WOULD LIKE IN MORE THAN ONE COLORWAY OF? Air Jordan 1’s!. And the Up tempo because they are so special. But when it comes to Air Jordan 1, then I just want them all. But it is not that easy to cop a pair of those colorways.
DO YOU BUY SHOES BECAUSE OF THE ‘’HYPE’’ AROUND THE MODEL? Both yes and no, I can’t really say no since I had a pair of Yeezys, but in some way I feel that it’s all about the history and the culture and not just the ‘hype’. But of course you get affected by the ‘hype’.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVORITE COLOR/ COLORWAY? I would have to say red. I’v got a lot og red shoes. Besides that, then I’m pretty boring when it comes to the color of my sneakers, a lot of black and white’s. But yeah, red’s the favorite!
EVER BOUGHT A PAIR OG SHOES JUST BECAUSE OG THE COLORWAY? Yes, the Air More Up Tempo with the Lightbone colorway. I was actually gonna buy them in black and white, but then I saw them in the Lightbone colorway and everything changed.
DO YOU BUY SHOES FOR DET COMFORT OR THE STYLE? A good combination of both. It depends of the sneaker.
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74 PHOTO: Markus Amundsen
INTERVIEW
SIMEN FAUSKE WHAT IS YOUR NAME, HOW OLD ARE YOU, WHAT DO YOU DO FOR A LIVING? Simen Fauske, 24 years old. Photographer
DO YOU COLLECT SNEAKERS? I don’t know, I wouldn’t call it collecting. I keep the shoes that means something for me, that I do. I don’t collect because I want a lot of shoes for a collection. What I’v done is that I’v bought shoes that I thought I was gonna sell, but then I became very fond of them and decided not to sell them, it became to hard, haha.
WHY SNEAKERS? Ehm, well, I’m fond of clothes and you can’t wear clothes without having cool sneakers, that would just destroy the outfit. Having cool sneakers is the last finish for an outfit. You also often dress according to what shoes you are wearing.
AT WHAT AGE DID YOU FELL IN LOVE WITH SNEAKERS? I’v always had an interest for shoes, mostly skate shoes and more shoes for everyday use. I started buying sneakers in 2015 I think, when I was 21-22 years old. At that point I had a steady job and more money. So I guess that’s it.
DO YOU FEEL THAT SNEAKERS ARE WORTH THE AMOUNT OF MONEY YOU SPEND ON IT? Yes! Absolutely. I’v often won shoes in a raffle. So I have bought them at retail prices that are much lower than what they are worth. So it’s definitely worth the effort. The shoes I have are worth a lot more than what I have given for them. So if I was gonna sell them I would have earned a lot more money then what i spend on them. So, yes they are worth the money. It’s an investment, simply as that.
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If you had to pick 3 favorite sneakers, what models? I do have some shoes that means more than others. Let’s start with the first ones, the Yeezy Boost Pirate Black, they are one of my favorites because they were the most difficult to get. I was outside YME at 6:00 am on a Friday in -7 degrees, and we sat outside waiting until around 9:00 am to get in and warm us and wait, we got a raffle ticket. There was probably like 200 people who met up and we were 80 pepole who got the raffel ticket. I was number 10 in the queue, both me and my friend got a pair of shoes each. So we wear quit lucky. The Ultra Boost Ace 16+ is one of the favorites because of the look, it’s cool, looks nice and gray shoes fits to almost everything. It also looks very sporty. And the Yeezy Boost V2 ‘’ Zebra ‘’ they’r are one of my favorites because they are so special and beacuse they have a very cool color-combination that also attracts a lot of attention because of the pattern. They stand out if I can say it like that. You might as well wear a dull black or gray outfit and then the shoes does the rest of the job for you. So to sum up, my three favorites are the Yeezy Boost Pirate Black, Ultra Boost Ace 16+ and Yeezy Boost V2 Zebra.
Do you collect sneakers to look at or do you collect them to wear them? Use them, that’s it. I do not buy shoes if I’m not gonna wear them. If I were to win in a raffle, for example, and I win a pair of shoes that i noe I’m not gonna wear, then I’ll sell them. It happened once when I won in a raffle. I used the shoes at first, but then I got a bit tired of them and ended up selling them, it was a pair of the Yeezy Boost Copper. And the money you make from selling shoes you are most likely to spend on a new pair of shoes.
Do you think you’l ever be finished collecting sneakers? No, I do not think so. Maybe if I earned more money then I would buy other types of shoes, but I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of sneakers.
Do you get a feel of exclusivity when you buy a pair of really expensive sneakers? Yes, haha. Especially when you get a pair of shoes that there are not to many people in Norway that have for example. At least, it feels exclusive when you are one of the few who have a pair of shoes that are hard to get.
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PHOTO: Markus Amundsen
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PHOTO: Markus Amundsen
Are you loyal to one brand or do you buy sneakers from whatever brand you want? I’m quite loyal to Adidas, there are several reasons for that. But for me, it’s not like any other brands have come with any shoes that have caught my interest, if I can say it like that.
What’s your favorite color/ colorway when it comes to sneakers? Often white, white and gray because it fits to almost everything. Otherwise, I like strange colors and that the shoe is a bit special like the Yeezy Boost ‘’ Beluga ‘’ that has the orange strip on the side panel. But I guess if I had to chose one color it would have to be white sneakers.
Do you buy shoes for det comfort or the style? A good combination of both. I don’t buy shoes that are not comfortable to walk in. That’s the thing that’s nice with Adidas because they are so comfortable to walk in and the look cool and they’r exclusive to some extent.
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ADIDAS 80
8 REASONS
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THE STORY
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THREE STRIPES
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KANYE WEST
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THE TEN
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8
8
REASONS WHY ADIDAS IS BETTER THAN NIKE 83
2 4 84
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Adidas goes way back. It isn’t the oldest sports brand on the planet, but no other has had such a profound impact for such a long time. Although the Herzogenaurach-based company in its present form goes back to 1949, the shoe factory of the Dassler brothers was founded in 1924. The memorabilia from sports history alone could fill an entire museum – and is no doubt the richest vault of all sports brands.
The spirit of the founder. Think of it this way: All his life, Adi Dassler wanted to build the best equipment for athletes possible. The man was a cobbler and an avid athlete himself. No other founder in sports history has understood the needs of athletes better than he did. He was quick in discovering flaws and experimented with new technologies. He was obsessed and the fruits of his labor are beyond impressive. If you visit adidas today, this is the spirit you will see.
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Three Stripes – the only logo with a function. Yes indeed, originally the Three Stripes were added to the upper to hold the shoe together and provide stability. No invented marketing story, no expensive design study, just three stripes on the side of a shoe – incredible.
It has the most and best classics in the archive. Decades before Nike rolled out their first running shoes, adidas was already innovating and writing sports history. The brand has created classics in different fields such as the Gazelle, the Superstar, the Samba and more even before Nike was officially founded. Many sneakers that go back half a century still have a solid following today.
Text: Sneaker-Magasine.com
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The Three Stripes have written sports history. If you look at founder Adi Dassler you can go all the way back to the 1930s. American sprinter Jesse Owens won four gold medals in Dassler-made shoes in the 1936 Olympics. And keep in mind that at the Olympics in 1972, 78% of competing athletes wore adidas – and 1984 even 89%!
Adidas wrote Hip-Hop history with both Run DMC and the Beastie Boys. And we’re talking about the foundation of modern rap. The love story includes album covers, product endorsements, the song “My Adidas” and that moment when Run DMC held up an adidas shoe in front of 40,000 people at a concert.
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Adidas has Kanye. No need to go into detail, because you know it all. Kanye West is probably the most influential artist on the planet right now and sports adidas – even though the stripes are missing on his own Yeezy line.
Adidas has Boost and the NMD. Boost is the cushioning innovation of our time and one of the few technologies in recent years that really made a difference. The NMD on the other hand is the most successful sneaker design on the planet right now. Combine the two and you have an unbelievable success story that will surely continue going forward.
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ADIDAS HISTORY
The Adidas brand shares common origin with another legendary sports brand, Puma. The Dassler brother, Adolf and Rudolf, who each went on to found their separate companies, produced their first training shoe in Herzogenaurach, Germany, in 1920.
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TEXT: Sneakers: The complete collector’s guide
The story of the three stripes company - 1949
D
assler shoes rapidly gathered a reputation for athletic excellence - Jesse Owens won his four gold medals at the 1936 Olympic Games wearing Dassler shoes - but following a
row, the two brothers went their separate ways. Rudolf went on to found Puma in 1948, while Adolph Dassler started a company called Adidas - a combination of his nickname, Ali, and the first three letters of his last name. A lower case ‘a’ is always used to distinguish Adidas from other brands. A year later, the famous ‘three stripes’ were established for the company’s trademark, which are still used to this day on all it’s clothing and shoes. The Adidas trefoil logo was introduced in 1972, at around the same time as the Munich Olympics. This logo can be found on early shoe models such as the Superstar (sidetall) and the Stan Smith (sidetall), and on clothing such as the A-15 Warm-Up tracksuits and the classic T-shirt. Adolph Dassler died at the age of seventy-eight in 1972, leaving his wife Käthe to continue running the company. That same year, Dassler became the first non-American admitted into the American Sporting Goods Industry Hall of Fame. Käthe died in 1984, handing over the reins to Horst, Dassler’s eldest, who took up the challenge until his death three years later. Keeping the company under control of the Dassler family - something that is still the case today - enabled its output to be of a consistently high quality and ensured that the brand stayed true to its original guidelines. One factor that helped Adidas to become the dominant force in world sports market was its sponsorship og legends, such as Muhammad Ali and the German national soccer team - which is quite literally the ‘Adidas team’. The sponsorship and association with sporting excellence is still the case today - styles such as the popular a3 and ClimaCool ranges are worn by top athletes, including soccer players David Beckham and Zinedine Zidane. Youth culture has always been another contributing factor to the success of the brand. In the 1980’s, soccer terraces in the UK were crammed full of three stripes as the soccer ‘casuals’ developed an obsession with one-upmanship over opposing teams’ supporters, with trainers and style such as the Adidas Forest Hills and Trimm-Trab.
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“If there had been a his brother every tim and say, ‘Heh, that w would look today lik Gruyere (cheese).”
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hole left in Rudolf / me I had to poke him was my invention,’ he ke a piece of - Adolf Dassler
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THE ADIDAS LOGO
A
didas started out as a small independent sportswear company in Germany. Today though, they are known all throughout the world with a presence in almost every global market. Adidas manufactures many different types of equipment and apparel including tennis rackets, referee
uniforms, and even soccer balls. Adidas is also a major manufacturer of running shoes. It is fair to say that Adidas dominates the sportswear market like no other company before them. One factor that has always worked in the favor of this company is the distinctive look of their logo. Most people recognize the Adidas logo on sight, and this memory certainly sticks with them when they go out to buy their own sports equipment. Anyone who wants to build an empire out of branding should pay attention to what Adidas accomplished with their unique but highly simplistic design.
Why Does the Adidas Logo Work?
LOGO #1: The Three Stripes
There is no denying that the Adidas logo is effective. Almost anyone who
This logo does not have a specific look. The company simple placed three
sees it can tell you it belongs to Adidas, and many companies are willing
black stripes on everything that they manufactured. Even this early in
to spend billions for that sort of recognition. The Adidas logo probably
their history, the company was known for this branding. The owner of the
works because it starts with a very simple design.
company at the time liked to call his business “The three stripe company�.
Three black stripes makes for a very striking design, and it can be placed on almost any product. The fact that no Adidas logo changes too
Even as new logos took the place of the old ones, the company would remain loyal to the three stripes look.
much from the original design means that all of their logos empower their brand without the risk of going unrecognized. With a sizeable contribution from their logo, Adidas will probably remain a sportswear powerhouse
TEXT: logaster.com
for years to come.
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THE LOGO
LOGO #2: The Trefoil The trefoil was the second Adidas logo. The theme of three stripes is still evident in the look, both in the leave that shoot out from the logo, and the three stripes that cross it diagonally. This logo was chosen because the company wanted a logo that represented the fact that their brand was a lot larger and more diverse that it used to be while still keeping the classic Adidas look. This logo is still used on some of their products, particularly their line of classic products. Most of their high-performance products have moved on to a third and final logo.
LOGO #3: The Three Bars This logo is the latest one that has been introduced, and it represents some of the finest equipment that Adidas sells. This logo more than the others is supposed to have a lot of meaning. The company wanted to keep the three stripes that they were known for, but also add something to give the logo some power. This new logo is supposed to resemble a mountain, like it is challenging the people who buy Adidas products to push themselves to their limits. This latest logo appears on many pieces of sports equipment and the new logo is still instantly and obviously “Adidas� to anyone who sees it.
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"The three stripe installed on the s part of the shoe m it became our tra
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s were originally shoes to give that more support, but ademark." - Adolf Dassler
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Adidas + Kanye These past two years adidas and YEEZY have given a glimpse into our future. This partnership illustrates that anyone with a dream can dream without limitations.
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“Tell adidas that we production. I done to was the infrastructu
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e need a million in old y’all all I needed ure,� - Kanye West
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100 ‘‘One of my biggest achilles heels has been my ego. And if I, Kanye West, can remove my ego, I think there’s hope for everyone.’’ - Kanye West
The start To be clear, Kanye West didn’t start on his sneaker design career at Nike. In fact, back in 2006 he designed a shoe in collaboration with adidas that never came out. What Nike can lay claim to is being the first brand to meaningfully work with the rapper on footwear. That collaboration spanned five years and saw three sneaker styles. It also allowed West to do work with the likes of Reebok and Louis Vuitton. But in 2013, ‘Ye left. Following uncertainty about the launch of the “Red Octobers” he
K anye is a true creator who has the ability to see things others don’t. We are
designed for Nike, Yeezy had questions. The dude had demands. Moving
excited and honored to build on this partnership, and eagerly look forward to
forward, Kanye West wanted royalties to provide for his family according to
defining the future together. With adidas + KANYE WEST we are exploring
him. When Nike said no and adidas said yes, the decision was made for him.
new territories by opening up the sports world to Kanye’s creativity. This
Cue speculation about a $10 million deal and two years later, the “Facts”
is what adidas has always been about, empowering creators to create the
Nike diss song and we have ourselves a rebound relationship in the making.
new. “Tell adidas that we need a million in production. I done told y’all all I needed was the infrastructure,” rapped Kanye West in his “Facts” track back in December and though it’s been half a year since the song dropped, last week adidas gave the star just that in an unprecedented deal. But adidas + Kanye West didn’t just crop up out of nowhere. Having worked with Nike, Louis Vuitton and even the adidas-owned Reebok in the past, the rapper is definitely no rookie to the game, but his road with adidas hasn’t been the straightest path. From his Nike defection to beef with PUMA, here are the
TEXT: HIGHSNOBIETY
high points of Kanye West’s twisted relationship with adidas.
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YEEZY Season 1, 2, 3 It took a while for Kanye and adidas to get anything out there. Though
Following the YEEZY Season 1 show, like a lover who realizes they
the artist claims he designed 20 sneakers for the sportswear company, for
are in too deep, adidas decided to keep Kanye at an arm’s length. The
at least a year following confirmation of the collaboration, there was no
company announced that they would not be supporting the production
product to show for it. It wasn’t until February 2015 that things got rolling.
of YEEZY apparel and the resulting shows but would only be producing
The YEEZY Season 1 showing was a big deal. The front row alone
the footwear. It was a smart move: they had gotten quite a bit of press
boasted Rihanna, Diddy, Alexander Wang, Cassie, Beyonce, Kim Kardashian,
from YEEZY Season 1 as the show was Style.com’s most viewed of fashion
North West and Anna Wintour. MA-1 bomber jackets, military parkas,
month, and now they could just rake in from the guaranteed success of the
distressed shirts and cropped shearling jackets were presented on a variety
YEEZY shoe styles. Cut your losses. But Kanye struck on.
of hodgepodge models awash in a dark palette. Critics noted the similarities
While the YEEZY Season 2 show was partially forgettable, YEEZY Season
between West’s collection and his influences, and fans balked at the $600
3 was when the artist really stepped into his own. That Madison Square
sweatpants and $3,000 jackets. Though some shops reported that pieces
Garden fete was one of the noisiest fashion shows in modern history. And, all
were selling well, much of the collection is still available online at deeply
the while, adidas was funding multiple iterations of the already successful
reduced prices. But the footwear was a different story. YEEZY Season 1 saw
Boost shoes. Grey, White, Beige. You want them? They had them.
the launch of the YEEZY Boost 350 and Boost 750. Both sold out instantly even though adidas launched an entire app to facilitate demand. In fact, the 350 ended up scoring Kanye an award. But, the popularity of the footwear and difficulty with the apparel made adidas reexamine the relationships.
Adidas Yeezy Boost 250 V2 ‘‘BELUGA 2.0’’
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brand amongst sneaker consumers.”
You want them? They had them.
so much noise and anticipation for a product line by the
of the already successful Boost shoes. Grey, White, Beige.
styles. Cut your losses. But Kanye struck on.
And, all the while, adidas was funding multiple iterations
adidas than he ever was with Nike.
rake in from the guaranteed success of the YEEZY shoe
the release of the Nike Air Jordan in 1985 had there been
brand. According to Nice Kicks, Yeezy is more popular with
most viewed of fashion month, and now they could just
year later in April 2009, it released to the public. “Not since
is in-turn helping to increase the popularity of the Yeezy
of press from YEEZY Season 1 as the show was Style.com’s
was one of the noisiest fashion shows in modern history.
West is helping to increase the popularity of adidas, adidas
footwear. It was a smart move: they had gotten quite a bit
stepped into his own. That Madison Square Garden fete
are investing big bucks in the Three Stripes. While Kanye
and the resulting shows but would only be producing the
The sneaker now known as the Nike Air Yeezy made
sportswear company. Its stock value is rising and people
would not be supporting the production of YEEZY apparel
its debut at the 2008 Grammy Awards and more than a
doubt that adidas is truly becoming an insanely successful
at an arm’s length. The company announced that they
While the new YEEZY Season 2 show was partially
coming off its best sales quarter of the year. There’s no
realizes they are in too deep, adidas decided to keep Kanye
forgettable, YEEZY Season 3 was when the artist really
With a huge push from Kanye West from the release of the Yeezy Boost 350 and Yeezy Season 1, adidas is
Following the YEEZY Season 1 show, like a lover who
TEXT: HIGHSNOBIETY
Adidas Yeezy Boost 350 V2 ‘‘ZEBRA’’
Adidas Yeezy Boost 350 V2 ‘‘SEMI FROZEN YELLOW’’
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ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1964
ADIDAS STAN SMITH
The earliest version of this shoe was produced in 1964 with the coorperation of French tennis player Robert Haillet. Unlike the later months, it hade a thick outsole, no Adidas trefoil on the heel and Haillet’s name applied to the side. It also had three rows of preforated stripes on the side panel, rather than the historical, normal and more traditional external stripes. In 1965, American tennis pro Stan Smith came to the attention of Adidas. Haileet’s name was replaced with Smith’s, and subsequent and future models had the tennis players face and signature on the tongue. Over the years, the Stan Smith has been a constant presence in the Adidas catalogue. It has been produced in a wide range of colors, including red, navy, black and beige, and a Velcro edition was released in the mid-1990’s. The sneakerhead’s favorite is the original Robert Haillet version.
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ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
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1968
ADIDAS GAZELLE
There is much speculation about the Gazelle’s original purpose. It’s silhouette suggests that it could be an indoor soccer football shoe, and over the years it has gained immense popularity with football fans, alongside the Trimm-Trab, MÜnchen and Forest Hills. It has also been suggested that the shoe was designed for running. However, the general consensus seems to be that this historical model was originally intended as an athletic training shoe. Whatever it’s initial function, the Gazelle is certainly a beautiful shoe: the streamlined wedge shape, simple styling and the flat sole are topped off with the suede upper to create a classic piece of design. It made a real impact on the early 80’s UK hip-hop scene, when the likes of the historical Superstar and the Campus were not yet widely avaliable. The beautiful model of a shoe was also supergood for dancing, as it was reallt light and came in a variety of bright colors. Today, the Gazelle is still worn by b-boys such as Ken Swift and Flowmaster. As well as being a huge favorite with the b-boys and football fans, the Gazelle would not look out of place at indie and acid-jazz venues. It was adopted by Britpop groups in the 90’s, including the likes of Oasis.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1969
ADIDAS SUPERSTAR
Introduced in 1969, the Superstar was a low-top of the Pro Model and was the first low-top basketball shoe to be made. Immediatlely identifiable by it’s rubber toe box, it became known to millions as the ‘shell shoe’. The styling and chunky fit were soon adopted by key figures on the hip-hop scene, and the shoe reached iconic status when rap group Run-DMC endorsed it. Their track My Adidas paid homage to the brand and led to the group having their own personalized Adidas shoes and clothing.
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ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
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1970’s
ADIDAS CAMPUS
This model was originally introduced in the early 1970’s as the Tournament, but was remaned around 1980. It’s reputation of the shoe is so rich and historical that is now worn by sneaker enthusiasts worldwide. Although associated with the hiphop scene, the Campus only realy gained it’s cult following after Brooklyn rappers the Beastie Boys started to wear the shoe religiously. The cover of their 1992 album Check Your Head immortalized it. From this launch pad, the Campus was adopted by skateboarders worldwide. Not only did it look good, but it came in a range of great colors and was durable - the construction of the upper rivalled the Adidas Gazelle, but lasted even longer. The shoe was seen as an exxellent lightweight model. It’s ability to complement denim was an added advantage.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1979
ADIDAS HANDBALL SPECIAL
The Adidas Handball Spezial was an extremely lightweight shoe for indoor training sports. The upper was made of velour, with additional padding, and the outsole hade a four-zone sole construction for the quick stops and turns that handball demands. In 1982, Adidas produced the Handball Spezial in white/ blue, /white/ red, and white/ black colorways.
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I MAKE SHO BEFORE EYE
OE CONTACT E CONTACT
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1979
ADIDAS MÜNCHEN
The Adidas MÜnchen is similar in appearance to the Trimm-Trab. They both have the same PU outsole, but the MÜnchen’s upper is made of nylon mesh with a velour trim, and it has a preforated toe box. The velour trim around the laces is serrated to match the Adidas stripes on the side panel. Adidas stopped producing the MÜnchen in 1984-85, and shoe enthusiasts have been searching for the original version ever since. Even if you manage to track down a pair, be sure not to use them - the PU outsole is not very hard-wearing and may as well start to crumble or crack.
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ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
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1980
ADIDAS KEGLER SUPER
The Adidas Kegler Super used the peg system. The peg system, as it is known, consists of three variable-density heel pegs, which are adjusted to customize the shoe’s cushioning. However the most interesting feature of this shoe is the suede strip that wraps around the toe guard, extending all the way to the bottom of the shoe to cover the midsole and the outsole. It can be difficult to keep clean, but this somehow adds character as the shoe ages. The Kegler Super was reissued in 2004. Adidas produced a limited edition of 100 pairs, each with an ostrich-skin upper and gold-colored pegs.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1985
ADIDAS DECADE
In 1985, Adidas released the Decade. This sleek, high-preformance basketball shoe was produced in both high- and low-top versions. The high top featured Adidas’s patented crisscross one-piece ankle-bracing system, which provided great external and internal ankle support. The wide grip outsole had serrated edges for extra traction and shock absorption. The appearance of the Decade is similar to other Adidas basketball shoes of that period, and the high topresembles the Forum high. Adidas stopped producing the Decade in 1986, but it wasn’t the end of the model. It was reissued in 2003 in brand new colorways, and with a slightly different look. The outsole, for example, no longer features the original multi-disk design. The reissue has meant that the shoe has been embraced by a new generation.
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ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
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1986
ADIDAS METRO ATTITUDE
This retro basketball shoe was manufactured in beautiful France and released in a variety of new and fresh colorways, including white/ orange, white/ royal blue, and white/ blue/ orange. The fake lizard-skin editions are by far the rarest: they came in blue/ orange, white/ black, and purple/ yellow. The Metro Attitude was reissued in 2002 in the original colorways.
ILLUSTRATION: Sondre Bye
1993
ADIDAS EQT
It was 1993. The creation of adidas Equipment. EQT was born. EQT introduced a design philosophy of pure purpose. Asymmetrical construction. Wrap tongue. The Three Stripes themselves, offering improved support, protection, and performance for the athlete. A range of sport shoes and apparel featuring only the most essential core components, each fulfilling a specific function. And nothing else.
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TIMELINE
STAN SMITH
GAZELLE
1964
1968
AIR FORCE 1
KEGLER SUPER
1982
1980
DUNK HIGH
AIR JORDAN 1
1985
1985
AIR MAX PLUS
AIR ZOOM SPIRIDON
1998
1997
SUPER
19
MÃœNC
19
DECA
19
AIR M
19
ILLUSTRATIONS: Sondre Bye
RSTAR
69
CHEN
79
ADE
85
MAX 95
95
CAMPUS
CORTEZ
1970
1972
HANDBALL SPECIAL
WAFFLE TRAINER
1979
1974
METRO ATTITUDE
AIR MAX
1986
1987
EQT
HUARACHE
1993
1991