• Celebrating Ou
r 17th Year •
Discoveries FOR THOSE WHO LIVE & PLAY IN SONOMA COUNTY
Beautiful Wines In the Gardens of Guerneville Chefs The Dutton Legacy
Volume 17, Issue 1 Fall 2013 | $4.95
THE RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY ISSUE
Russian River Valley Character from the Ground Up
2 Fall 2013
ACORN Winery/AlegrĂa Vineyards 12040 Old Redwood Hwy., Healdsburg 707.433.6440; acornwinery.com Open by appointment only
Bucher Vineyard
5293 Westside Rd., Healdsburg 707.433.4056; buchervineyard.net Vineyard tours by appointment
DeLoach Vineyards
1791 Olivet Rd., Santa Rosa 707.526.9111; deloachvineyards.com Open daily 10am to 5pm
Dutton-Goldfield Winery
3100 Gravenstein Hwy. No., Sebastopol 707.827.3600; duttongoldfield.com Open daily 10am to 4:30pm
Moshin Vineyards
10295 Westside Rd., Healdsburg 707.433.5499; moshinvineyards.com Open daily 11am to 4:30pm
RMH Wines
rivermysthaven.com
Robert Rue Vineyard & Winery 1406 Wood Rd., Fulton 707.578.1601; robertruevineyard.com Open Fri-Sun 10am to 5pm and Mon-Thur. by appointment
When you visit the Russian River Valley you will most likely meet the farmer or winemaker of your favorite wine in the local eatery or pouring a glass for you at their winery. In every season the extraordinary countryside offers breathtaking perspectives and our Valley’s character shows through in many ways; whether it is the beauty of our vineyards, the amazing food and spas to be enjoyed, or the artists who are as unique as the art they create. Russian River Valley is a place like no other.
Russian Hill Estate
4525 Slusser Rd., Windsor 707.575.9428; russianhillestate.com Open daily 10am to 4pm
Russian River Vineyards
707.521.2534 www.rrvw.org
5700 Hwy. 116 No., Forestville 707.887.3344; russianrivervineyards.com Open daily 11am to 5pm
Thomas George Estates
8075 Westside Rd., Healdsburg 707.431.8031; thomasgeorgeestates.com Open daily 11am to 5pm photo by Benjamin Stein
Discoveries 3
Editor’s
Experience desired Making, and enjoying, great wine is a hands-on experience. Join us for a taste of our Single Vineyard Cabernets.
Open Daily 10:00 am to 5:00 pm 11455 Old Redwood Hwy. Healdsburg, CA 800.678.4763 www.RodneyStrong.com
A wine experience made for you. Place Matters - Sonoma County
Fall in love all over again.
“Beautiful job! Impressive workmanship. It was a pleasure to work with all of you. The compliments keep coming in…” — Vic & Val, Santa Rosa
before f i n e
h o m e
b u i l d i n g
&
r e m o d e l i n g
s i n c e
1 9 7 8
Tired, outdated home? Now is the perfect time to remodel. Call us. (707) 823-4899 www.leffconstruction.com
4 Fall 2013
Lic 521133
Letter
For this fall issue of Discoveries, our writers spread out in the Russian River Valley and brought back stories about the region’s past and present. Whether you live here or are visiting, our mission is to entice you to explore Sonoma County with new eyes and all of your senses. Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez covers the Russian River Valley AVA. Joe Rochioli, Jr., who earned our cover shot taken by Discoveries photographer Sarah Bradbury, is famous for being one of the grapegrowers who introduced Pinot Noir to the Russian River Valley. With feet on the ground since he was a kid, Mr. Rochioli knows his family’s vineyards like the back of his hand. Rollie Atkinson visited the Dutton Ranch where Gail Dutton Peterson invited him into her dining room to talk about her late husband’s legacy. Gail said Warren loved being a farmer — now she and her sons Steve and Joe are carrying on their heritage in the vineyards and apple orchards surrounding the family home. Putting his award-winning journalism experience into gear, Frank Robertson dug through years of crop reports and historical records to write about the diverse history of agriculture before the grape. It’s an informative piece, and next time you go to what was once Skip’s Bar in Graton (Underwood), raise a glass to the past. For those looking to eat and play, there’s plenty here. Abby Bard experiences two very different Guerneville restaurants committed to growing and sourcing local ingredients. Jessie Poshepny journeys to neighborhood dive bars, and my story on farm stands brings the season’s bounty to you and salutes the Gravenstein. This is my first issue as editor, and I hope to carry on the good work of Pam Whigham. Our next issue unfolds in winter, when we will be focusing on the splendor of the Sonoma Coast AVA. Until then, may all of your discoveries be memorable. Patricia M. Roth Editor
30
34
Editor’s Letter ........................................................... 4
fall 2013
Contributors .................................................................................6 Absolute Musts ..........................................................7 Six hot picks for fall Do Dates ...................................................................... 8 An illustrated event calendar, September through November
contents
Ongoing Events...................................................................... 14 On Stage..........................................................................................15 Art & About ............................................................. 16 Events and exhibits at art galleries and arts centers Advertiser’s Index ................................................ 54 Regional Map ........................................................... 55 [ Cover ] Grapegrower Joe Rochioli, Jr. in his vineyards on Westside Road in Healdsburg.
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[ This page ] Clockwise from top left— Steve Dutton, Gail Dutton Peterson and Joe Dutton; processing apples at Manzana in Graton; apple orchard at Walker Apples ranch in Graton; stuffed squash blossom at Applewood Inn’s restaurant. Photos by Sarah Bradbury
[ Features ] Pairings: The Upside of Neighborhood Dive Bars 22
The Halcyon Days of
How the Russian River Valley Shapes Beautiful Wines 24
From Garden to Gourmet 42
By Jess Poshepny
By Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez
Tracing the Dutton Name 30 By Rollie Atkinson
24
Russian River Resort Life 38 By Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez By Abby Bard
Day Tripping: Seasonal Farm Stands 48 By Patricia M. Roth
All Grows Well in the Russian River Valley 34 By Frank Robertson
Discoveries 5
CO N T R I B U TO R S Rollie Atkinson has been in journalism for 37 years, working at reporter and editor desks in both daily and community weekly newsrooms on both coasts. He has been publisher of the Sonoma West Publications since 1995 and keeps his pen wet writing weekly news commentaries and occasional features about music, outdoor pursuits and interesting people. He currently serves as a volunteer board member of the Healdsburg Jazz festival. Abby Bard is a weaver who sells her handwoven clothing from her studio in Sebastopol and is a member of ARTrails. She has a passion for growing food in an urban landscape and writes about it and other subjects for Sonoma West magazines. Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez is a Sonoma County native and journalist for Sonoma West Times & News. She holds a BA in Communications from Sonoma State University and has a background in graphic design, public relations, creative writing and dance. Jess Poshepny is Direct Sales and Marketing Manager for Trione Vineyards & Winery in Geyserville. The Sonoma native has 12 years of experience in the wine business and is President of the Geyserville Chamber of Commerce. She loves to eat, drink and play local. Frank Robertson is senior news editor and staff writer for the Sonoma West Times & News. His writing has won a Lincoln Steffens award from Sonoma State University and a California Newspaper Publishers award for journalism. He and his wife live in a cabin on the Russian River near Guerneville with their Airedale, Ray. Patricia Roth is editor of Discoveries magazine and the Living section of Sonoma West Publications. She returns to Sonoma West after six years at Wine Business Monthly as a senior editor. She has a Masters of Arts in writing from the University of San Francisco and lives in Sebastopol with her husband and their wild horses, dog and cats.
S TA F F MANAGING EDITOR Sarah Bradbury EDITOR Patricia M. Roth COPY EDITOR Pam Whigham EDITORIAL DESIGN Gail Sands PHOTOGRAPHY EDITOR Sarah Bradbury CONTRIBUTORS Rollie Atkinson Abby Bard Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez Jess Poshepny Frank Robertson Patricia M. Roth email us with comments, questions and suggestions at: sarah@sonomawest.com 6 Fall 2013
PUBLISHER Rollie Atkinson ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Sarah Bradbury ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Cherie Kelsay MARKETING & SALES Jeanne Louise Pyle email us with advertising placement inquiries at: cherie@sonomadiscoveries.com ADVERTISING SALES Sara Braun Lacey Burdette Cherie Kelsay Steve Pedersen Jeanne Louise Pyle Paula Wise
Discoveries Magazine Advertising and Editorial Offices P.O. Box 518 Healdsburg, CA 95448 Phone: 707-838-9211 sonomawest.com sonomadiscoveries.com Discoveries Magazine, Vol XVII, #1, is published quarterly by Sonoma West Publishers, Inc. Discoveries is published quarterly by Sonoma West Publishers. It is distributed at over 220 locations throughout Sonoma County as a newspaper insert, on the Web, and to visitors centers, Chambers of Commerce, tasting rooms, shops, restaurants, inns and hotels, and other venues.
Reprints in publications outside our distribution area are encouraged, but prior written permission is required. Š Copyright 2013 Sonoma West Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved. Discoveries is an advertising supplement to the August 29, 2013 issue of Sonoma West Times & News, The Windsor Times The Healdsburg Tribune & The Cloverdale Revielle This magazine uses zero VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) UV inks. VOCs create smog. Because it’s not printed using conventional Heatset this publication has substantially reduced its carbon footprint. Printed by Barlow Printing, Cotati, CA.
theater festivals concerts wine tastings National Heirloom Exposition
photo by Sarah Bradbury
Absolute Musts
National Heirloom Exposition
Celebrate good flavor, texture and time-honored genetics in our foods. You’ll find eye-popping stacks of colorful squash, fruit carving demos, livestock exhibits and compelling speakers, including Vandana Shiva of India’s pure food movement.
September
Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival
10 - 12
Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival
This festival is everyone’s favorite because you can dally in the river or dance on the sand with a backdrop of redwoods at laid-back Johnson’s Beach. Take in jazz acts on Saturday and blues players on Sunday.
September
21 - 22
Sonoma County Harvest Fair
A harvest party like no other, this fair is a cornucopia of all aspects of the county’s bounty. There’s a new format this year, but the madcap World Championship Grape Stomp remains, drawing contestants from near and far.
October
4-6
October
13-14 &
20-21
ARTrails Open Studios
Saddle up and hit the trail—the art trail! This annual open-studios event represents a wide array of arts in dozens of locations. Choose your favorites from the catalog, map out your tour, meet the artists and learn about their work.
Slaid Cleaves
November
20
A talented but humble performer, Slaid Cleaves says about himself: “Grew up in Maine. Lives in Texas. Writes songs. Travels around. Tries to be good.” Catch him in Sebastopol, touring his latest album, and become a fan.
Starcross Christmas Faire
Slaid Cleaves More details for the above can be found in Do Dates.
November
30
This lay monastic community in Annapolis quests for the sacred while advocating for children. You’re invited to visit their bucolic setting high in the coastal Sonoma hills to find handmade holiday gifts, food and seasonal décor. Discoveries 7
DoDates Calendar September (Area codes 707 unless noted)
August 31 - September 2 & September 7 - 8 Studio Discovery Tour Discover art along a 25-mile stretch of Highway 1 from Sea Ranch to Irish Beach. This two-weekend, 21st annual self-guided tour features dozens of art studios open to the public with paintings, sculpture, jewelry, ceramics, glass art, textiles, photography, iron work, murals and more. Call for the catalog/map or download from web site. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. each day. 6840475; studio-tours.com. • Tippi Hedren at Tides Wharf In honor of the 50th anniversary of Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds,” a Saturday movie screening and dinner with Miss Hedren has been added to her annual visit (call for details). Signing free to attend; autograph fee applies and photos available for purchase. Saturday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sunday 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Monday 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tides Wharf, 835 Hwy One, Bodega Bay; 875-2777; innatthetides.com.
Yarns • Books • Notions Classes & Gifts Open every day (Thursdays till 8pm) 429 Healdsburg Ave. Healdsburg (707) 433-JOYS www.purlsofjoy.com 8 Fall 2013
September 8 Laguna Art and Garden Gala The Laguna Foundation celebrates its 10th annual benefit supporting educational and conservation programs for the Laguna de Santa Rosa. This gala garden party offers artisan food paired with local wines, “Laguna Watershed” quilt raffle and a silent auction of garden art, wine lots and other special items. $75. 2 to 6 p.m. Vine Hill House, Vine Hill Rd., Sebastopol; 527-9277; lagunafoundation.org.
Tomato & Pepper Festival
September 1
Purls of Joy
included. 11:30 a.m. to 7 p.m. Ives Park, Sebastopol; 8231991; winecountrycajun.com.
B.B. King Catch the final performance of the 2013 Rodney Strong Summer Concert Series as one of America’s best-loved musicians demonstrates why he’s King of the Blues. Food vendors and Rodney Strong wine available; picnic baskets okay, but no outside alcohol, please. $75 general, $115 VIP; doors 4 p.m., show at 5 p.m. 11455 Old Redwood Hwy, Healdsburg; 869-1595 x4; omegaevents. com/rodneystrong.
• Tomato & Pepper Festival Each year, the Windsor Certified Farmers Market celebrates the bounty of tomato and pepper season. Taste more than 40 varieties of tomatoes and try the “Is it Hot enough for Ya? Pepper Tasting,” watch a cooking demo by Chef John Franchetti of Rosso Pizzeria, and enjoy the local chef salsa contest, plus live music. Free to attend. 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Windsor Town Green, Market St. and Huerta Gym parking lot, Windsor; 838-1320; windsorfarmersmarket.com.
September 6 - 7
September 10 - 12
Cloverdale 20th Annual Street Celebration Friday night, cruise down Main and rock to The Hot Rods band in the Plaza. Saturday morning, attend the Pancake Breakfast and Rummage Sale at the Senior Center (311 Main St.) then stroll the annual Classic Car and Motorcycle Show, with more live music, Kid Zone, swap meet, and chili and salsa cook-offs. Free to attend. Downtown Cloverdale. 894-4470; cloverdale.com.
National Heirloom Exposition The 3rd annual exposition of heirloom vegetable, fruit and livestock is back with world-class exhibits and an international roster of speakers. $10 per day per adult; $25 for a three-day pass. Youth 17 and under are free. 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, speaker halls open at 9 a.m. Sonoma County Fairgrounds, 1350 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa; 545-4200; theheirloomexpo.com.
September 7
September 14
Beer on the Plaza Craft breweries offer tastes of their best suds to accompany food, live music by Soulshine Blues Band, a silent auction and a raffle at the annual fundraiser for Soroptimist International of Healdsburg’s community service projects. $25; tickets available at Copperfields and Bear Republic Brewing Company or call Kathy Borg, 480-8864. 2 to 6 p.m. Plaza Park, downtown Healdsburg; sihealdsburg.org.
Old Grove Festival This year’s festival, “Ramble in the Redwoods,” features entertainment by Houston Jones Band with Carlos Reyes, Shana Morrison and many others. $25 general, $40 for Redwood Circle; $10 kids 5 to 12. Food and beverages available for purchase (reserve meals online) or bring your own picnic. Gates open 4:30 p.m., music begins at 6. Armstrong Woods State Reserve, 17000 Armstrong Woods Rd., Guerneville; 869-9177; oldgrovefestival.org.
• Sebastopol Cajun-Zydeco Festival It’s the 18th annual celebration/fundraiser hosted by Rotary Club of Sebastopol Sunrise. Boogie on the outdoor dance floor under the trees to four great Zydeco bands. Food includes BBQ, crawfish, gumbo, gator sausage, shave ice and watermelon. $22 advance online, $25 at the gate, under-12 free; food and beverages not
• Hohlax Trio from Greece Formed on the Greek isle of Amorgos, this trio is native Californian Jaime Smith on violin, celebrated bouzouki player and vocalist Orestis Koletsos, and recording artist and vocalist Apostolis Kounis on guitar and oud. $15; Greek sweets and savories, wine and beer for sale. 8 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct.,
Occidental; 874-1124; occidentalcenterforthearts.org. • Russian Riverfest Celebrate the River at this annual bash and support Russian Riverkeeper’s commitment to protect and restore. The festivities include a locally sourced organic harvest dinner, wine and beer tasting, music and a silent auction. $35 in advance, $40 after Sept. 11, $25 for students and free for 12 and under. 4 to 7 p.m. Burke’s Canoe Trips, 8600 River Rd., Forestville; 433-1958; russianriverkeeper.org.
September 14 - 15 Much Ado About Sebastopol The Sebastopol Education Foundation presents its Renaissance Faire-style fundraiser for local schools. You’ll step back into 16th century England with living history, parades, historical demonstrations, food, crafts, merchants and games, and entertainment. See website for admission fees. 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.; closes at 5 p.m. on Sunday. Ives Park, Jewell and Willow avenues, Sebastopol; muchadoaboutsebastopol.com.
September 19 Rockin’ the River For the final concert of this year’s Rockin’ the River series, Guerneville Plaza hosts Tom Rigney and Flambeau. Come for the music and dancing, but also for the arts, crafts and non-profit fair plus the seasonal farmers market. Free to attend; presented by Russian River Rotary Foundation. 3 to 7 p.m. River Rd. at Armstrong Woods Rd., Guerneville; 869-9000; rockintheriver.org.
September 20 Blame Sally This San Francisco-based folk quartet is not your conventional “girl band.” Dropping established careers, these women are garnering accolades for their rich harmonies and mature songwriting. $20 general in advance, $25 premium seating, $23 at the door. 8 p.m., doors at 7:15. Sebastopol Community Cultural Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol; 823-1511; seb.org.
September 21 - 22 Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival Two long-standing music festivals meet during one great weekend. Saturday is jazz day, featuring Jeffrey Osborne, Gregory Porter, vocalist Ledisi, and many more. The blues ticket on Sunday includes Boz Scaggs, Los Lobos, Robert Cray Band and California Honeydrops, among others. In advance, $50 for single day or $80 for weekend pass. Gate opens at 10 a.m. Johnson’s Beach Resort, First & Church St., Guerneville; 869-1595; omegaevents.com.
September 22 Mexican Heritage Festival The Healdsburg Museum & Historical Society presents a family-friendly Mexican Heritage Festival on the Healdsburg Plaza. Entertainment includes local Mexican dancers, a puppet show and live music. There’s also a salsa-making contest among local chefs. Free to attend; 12:30 to 4:30 p.m. Contact the Museum for additional information. Downtown Healdsburg; 431-3325; healdsburgmuseum.org.
September 28 EarleFest The Earle Baum Center for the Blind hosts this annual Americana music festival. Headliners include Robert Earl Keen and Ray Wylie Hubbard. Sonoma County edibles, beer and wine accompany the music. $30 advance, $35 day of show. Noon to 6 p.m., gates open at 11 a.m. 4539 Occidental Rd., Santa Rosa; 523-3222; earlefest.com. Discoveries 9
lighting jewelry primitives
100 Dealers! Our 24th year! On Sebastopol’s Antique Row (Hwy 116) 2661 Gravenstein Hwy So. | 707.829.1733
(Area codes 707 unless noted)
October 4 - 6 Sonoma County Harvest Fair The Tasting Pavilion hosts more than 150 wineries, craft beer and cider producers and food pairings from the professional culinary competition. At the Marketplace: shopping, chef demos, seminars and presentations. The World Championship Grape Stomp runs all weekend. Gate admission free; Tasting Pavilion $50, pre-sale: two for $90. See website for hours. Sonoma County Fairgrounds, 1350 Bennett Valley Rd., Santa Rosa; 545-4200; harvestfair.org.
October 12 - 13 ARTrails Open Studios Take a self-guided tour of artists’ studios all around Sonoma County that represent a multitude of art media. Peruse the illustrated catalog to map your route, meet the artists and learn about their processes and techniques. Free to attend. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Call or see website for a catalog. 579-2787; sonomaarts.com/artrails.
Cheese and Beer Pairings Food writer and cheese expert Janet Fletcher makes an appearance at the Windsor Certified Farmers Market, demonstrating pairings from her latest book, “Cheese & Beer.” Free to attend. 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Windsor Town Green, Market St., Windsor; 838-1320; windsorfarmersmarket.com. • Paul Galbraith, Guitar Redwood Arts Council presents Paul Galbraith, a brilliant innovator of the classical guitar who has been working since the 1980s towards expanding the technical limits of his instrument. $30 general, $10 students. 4 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Court, Occidental; 874-1124; redwoodarts.org.
www.antiquesociety.com
Calabash
October 6 Calabash Gourds grown at the gardens of Food For Thought, Sonoma County AIDS Food Bank, go to artists and craftspeople and re-appear at this annual benefit gala as art, gifts and more. Also in the mix: wine and seasonal hors d’oeuvres, a silent auction and musicians playing on gourd instruments. Call or see website for ticket and time info. 6550 Railroad Ave., Forestville; 887-1647; fftfoodbank.org.
October 11 Katie Ketchum Award-winning composer/playwright Katie Ketchum is joined by Pablo Rodriguez in excerpts from her musicals, some jazz selections and passionate original duets. $15. 7:30 p.m. Sebastopol Center for the Arts, 282 S. High St., Sebastopol; 829-4797; sebarts.org; katieketchum.com.
October 11 - 12 Graton Flower Show and Plant Sale This fall show’s theme is “Winter Wonderland.” Get dazzled by imaginative displays and find flowers and plants for sale, handcrafted items and collectibles, plus a raffle. Lunch available for $10, beverages and desserts offered all day. Free to attend. 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. both days. Graton Community Club, 8996 Graton Rd., Graton; 829-5314. 10 Fall 2013
• Cemetery Walk The 11th annual Barbara Bull Memorial Cemetery Walk features six new vignettes with characters from local history. Always a sell-out event, the tours include dinner, dessert and coffee served in Luther Burbank’s historic farm cottage. $25 to $30 advance only; call for reservations. Burbank Farm, 7777 Bodega Ave., Sebastopol; 823-0884 or 829-1757; wschsgrf.org.
October 13
california
A huge place to browse! Fido friendly! Visit our delicious bakery too!
October
country
Antique Society
post modern
kitchen tools
arts & crafts
architectural
Friends don’t let friends miss this place!
toys & dolls
glass
furniture fruit labels garden antiques
• Viola Concert Jonathan Vinocour, principal violist for the San Francisco Symphony, will perform as part of the Gualala Arts Chamber Music Series. He is regarded as one of the most exciting and thoughtful violists of his generation. $25 advance, $30 at the door; ages 7 through 17 admitted free with adult. 4 p.m. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
October 18 JP and the OK Rhythm Boys This fine fiddle trio from San Juan Islands is on its third California tour. Enjoy their swing tunes, hoedowns, polkas, waltzes and ’60s rockers. It’s a dance concert, so wear your fancy boots. $15 general, great vittles for sale. 8 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-1124; occidentalcenterforthearts.org. • Winemaker Dinner: Schug Winery Walter Schug, winemaker and proprietor, presides over a four-course dinner paired with Schug varietals from Carneros and Sonoma Valley appellations. $89 plus tax and gratuity; discounted room rates for attendees. Call for time and reservations. 800 Hwy 1, Bodega Bay; 875-2751; innatthetides.com.
October 19 Ruth Moody of the Wailin’ Jennys A two-time Juno Award winning singer-songwriter from Winnipeg, Manitoba, Moody is a founding member of the Billboard-charting trio, The Wailin’ Jennys. She’s also former lead singer of the Canadian roots band Scruj MacDuhk. $18 general in advance, $23 premium seating, $20 at the door. 8 p.m., doors at 7:15. Sebastopol Community Cultural Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol; 823-1511; seb.org. • The Skerries An instrumental band led by guitarist and composer Bill Horvitz, the Skerries perform all-original jazz, folk,
funk and rock-based music for guitar, acoustic bass (Scott Walton) and drums (Tom Hayashi). $15 cabaret seating; fine wine and beer for sale. 8 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-1124; occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
October 19 - 20 ARTrails Open Studios Second weekend of open studios self-guided tour. See October 12-13 for details.
Silk Moon
October 20 Windsor Pumpkin Festival Come to the market for tons of fun: pumpkin car races, biggest pumpkin contest, pumpkin bowling and ring-toss, scarecrow building, Kidz Carve and Paint Pumpkins, and pumpkin desserts bake sale benefiting Windsor HS Culinary Program. Also at the market: live music by 4th Street Jazz Band. Free to attend. 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Windsor Certified Farmers Market, Windsor Town Green, Market St. and Huerta Gym parking lot, Windsor; 838-1320; windsorfarmersmarket.com.
October 25 Occidental Harvest Festival The Occidental Bohemian Farmers Market ends its seasonal run with a party. Enjoy the Halloweeninspired fun at their annual ode to harvest. There’s a scarecrow contest, live music and kids’ activities along with prepared foods, produce and farm products. 4 p.m. until dusk. Downtown Occidental; 793-2159; occidentalfarmersmarket.com.
October 26 Healdsburg Pumpkin Festival Pumpkin car races, pumpkin carving, a scarecrow contest and lots more fun turns the colorful Saturday Healdsburg Farmers Market into a great big Halloween treat. Free. Market open 9 a.m. to noon; pumpkin festivities begin at 10. North and Vine streets at Foss Creek, 1 block west of Plaza Park, Healdsburg; 431-1956; healdsburgfarmersmarket.com.
October 27 Fall Colors Festival and Vintage Car Show A day of fall fun in downtown Geyserville starts off with a pancake breakfast cooked up by the Volunteer Fire Department from 7 to 11 a.m. Then take in the vintage car show, pumpkin contests, live music, food and crafts booths, kids’ games, scarecrows, silent auction, and meet local authors. Winery tasting rooms are also open. Free to attend. 10 a.m. to 3 p.m., Geyserville Ave., Geyserville; 857-3745; geyservillecc.com. • Pinot on the River If you love Pinot Noir, you know that the Russian River appellation is one of the best in the world for this finicky varietal. Come for a grand tasting around Healdsburg Plaza to enjoy limited production Pinot Noirs and tastes from artisan food vendors. $75 general admission at noon, $85 early entry at 11 a.m., and $150 for VIP admission and seminar at 9 a.m. 433-0433 x0; pinotfestival.com. • California Redwood Chorale Capping off an afternoon of “Pizza in the Piazza” offered by Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, the worldtraveled California Redwood Chorale performs in the Barrel Room at 3 p.m. $20 for concert, no charge to enter the winery. Jacuzzi Family Vineyards, 24724 Arnold Dr., Sonoma; 931-7575; jacuzziwines.com; CR Chorale, 874-3770; californiaredwoodchorale.org.
uisine C s u io c li e D , Creative Paired with Wines y t n u o C t s e Premier W
California Fusion Japanese 707•823•8189 8caw.com
707•824•9886 SushiTozai.com
Just west of Main St. on Healdsburg Ave., Hwy 116, Sebastopol Discoveries 11
Gualala FESTIVAL OF TREES
November 29 & 30 also
EXHIBITS PERFORMANCE WORKSHOPS RENTALS 46501 GUALALA ROAD 707.884.1138 | GualalaArts.ORG
November (Area codes 707 unless noted)
November 2 - 3 15th Annual Wine & Food Affair Russian River Wine Road brings together more than 100 wineries in Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys for a marriage of food and wine. Participation includes tastings, a cookbook of the winery recipes, a logo glass and special offers on wine purchases. Tickets in advance only; $70 weekend pass, $50 Sunday only, $30 designated drivers. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. 800-723-6336; wineroad.com.
November 8 Laguna Moon Band Enjoy an evening of dancing music—jive swing, jump blues, wailin’ rock, and country swing, that include favorites from an extensive list of covers and original music. $10. 7:30 p.m. Sebastopol Center for the Arts, 282 S. High St., Sebastopol; 829-4797; sebarts.org.
November 8 - 9 Dancing with the Stars at the Raven A fundraiser for the Raven Theater, this two-night event brings a distinctly local version of the widely known TV show to Healdsburg’s performing arts stage. Root for your favorite couples, professional dancers who’ve trained local celebs in a variety of dance styles. Call or see website for ticket prices and times. Raven Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 433-6335; raventheater.org.
Enjoy
unsurpassed
Stylish updates in all guest rooms Acclaimed dining and regional wines at our Black Point Grill n Spa treatment rooms n Changing art exhibits n Named one of the “Best Weddings of 2012 & 2013 in the Bay Area” by The Knot n n
60 Sea Walk Drive, Highway 1, Sea Ranch 707-785-2371 | searanchlodge.com 12 Fall 2013
• Chamber Music: Sonic Escape Redwood Arts Council presents this flute-violincello trio of Juilliard graduates whose humor and candid conversation draw audiences in, while backgrounds in acting, singing and dancing turn concerts into unforgettable, theatrical events. $30 general, $10 students. 4 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Court, Occidental; 874-1124; redwoodarts.org. • Concert: Musica Pacifica Gualala Arts Chamber Music Series presents San Francisco’s sizzling baroque ensemble, Musica Pacifica, performing from their latest CD, “Dancing in the Isles.” $25 in advance, $30 day of concert; ages 7 through 17 admitted free with adult. 7:30 p.m. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
November 13 - 16
Starcross Christmas Faire
natural serenity
tasting and dinner on organic and biodynamic viticulture with Marimar Torres of Marimar Estate, Ames Morison of Medlock Ames, and Hugh Chappelle of Quivira Winery. Charlie Palmer’s Dry Creek Kitchen prepares the threecourse dinner. $99 plus tax and gratuity, reservations required. Seminar begins at 3:30, dinner seating 5:30 p.m. Hotel Healdsburg, 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 431-0330; dmonroe@charliepalmer.com.
• Dance in the Redwoods San Francisco Ballet student trainees return to the Gualala Arts Center with an entirely new repertoire to enchant the audience with performances of exquisite beauty. $20 adults in advance, $10 youth 7 to 17 in advance, $5 more day of performance. 7:30 p.m. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
November 9 The Black Brothers The famous Irish brothers of Mary Black — Shay and Michael Black — come to Occidental Center for the Arts with their fine band. Performances include uptempo reels, jigs, audience participation, jokes and humorous anecdotes. $20 general; fine beer, wine and pub grub for sale. 8 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-1124; occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
November 10 Wine Seminar, Tasting & Dinner The Wine Pioneers Series presents an interactive wine
Healdsburg Library Book Sale Support the library by selecting from quality books for $2, children’s books, DVDs, videos, music CDs and collectibles at various prices. Sale opens Wed. to Friends of the Healdsburg Library members only (or join at the door, $5/year) 1 to 6 p.m.; open to the public Thurs. through Sat., hours vary. Healdsburg Regional Library, 139 Piper St., Healdsburg; 433-3772; sonomalibrary.org/friends.
November 15 Winemaker Dinner: Lasseter Family Winery The Bay View Restaurant at The Inn at the Tides in Bodega Bay welcomes winemaker Julia Iantosca who presides over a four-course dinner paired with three blends and an old vine Zinfandel. Reservations are a must; preview the menu online. $99 plus tax and gratuity. Dinner guests receive discounted room rates. 6:30 p.m. 800 Hwy 1, Bodega Bay; 875-2751; innatthetides.com.
November 16 Seb Arts Annual Benefit Auction “All that Glitters” is the name of Sebastopol Center for the Arts’ 2013 event, which caps a celebration of 25 years as West County’s hub for the arts. Full details can be found at the website, but the Center’s annual fundraiser gala always includes great (and local) food, wines, an auction, entertainment, and an art exhibition that plays on the theme. 282 S. High St., Sebastopol; 829-4797; sebarts.org.
November 16 - 17 Philharmonia Healdsburg This chamber orchestra of 20-plus musicians, led by Ukiah Symphony conductor Les Pfutzenreuter, presents “Mozart & Salieri — Friendly Rivals.” $25 adults, $10 students with ID. Sat. at 8 p.m., Sun. at 2 p.m. Raven Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 433-6335; raventheater.org.
November 17 Book Launch: Tales from the West Pole
Author Marylu Downing reads from and signs copies of her new work that chronicles a transformative time with memorable characters in a magical place called the West Pole. Event is free to attend; refreshments and beverages available for a small donation. 4 to 6:30 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-9392; occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
November 20 Slaid Cleaves Touring his latest album that was four years in the making — “Still Fighting the War”—singer/songwriter/ guitarist Slaid Cleaves performs at the Sebastopol Grange. Presented by Schaef-Abel Productions, full details on purchasing tickets and time of concert are available as of Sept. 1 on the website. Sebastopol Grange is located at 6000 Sebastopol Ave., Sebastopol; northbaylive.com.
November 22 Healdsburg Holiday Party The mood gets festive in downtown Healdsburg today. Join in the celebration with Healdsburg merchants as they throw an open house to kick off the holidays. There are special sales and fun treats, including live entertainment. Free to attend. 5 to 9 p.m. Downtown Healdsburg; 433-6935; healdsburg.com.
www.thegarciarivercasino.com Where the river ends the winning begins! 22215 Windy Hollow Road Point Arena, CA 95468 (707) 467-5300
November 22 - 23 Cabaret Show: Sita and Friends Sita Milchev and her singing friends bring favorite songs from Broadway stages to the Sonoma Coast, with Don Kreiger as piano accompanist. The evening includes a martini bar and goodies available at intermission. $20 advance, $30 at the door, if seats remain. 7 p.m. both nights, doors open at 6:30. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
November 29 - 30 Bodega Christmas Crafts Fair This annual crafts fair raises funds for the Town of Bodega’s Volunteer Fire Department and its new building. Get a jump on the gift-giving season, find décor to deck the halls and enjoy seasonal refreshments in this relaxed, historic small-town setting. Free to attend. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. McCaughey Fire Hall, 17184 Bodega Hwy, Bodega; 876-9438; bodegafire.org. • Gualala 10th Annual Festival of Trees Wander the Fantasy Forest of decorated table-top trees that are won by silent auction. Local handcrafts and edibles make great gifts, and the Gingerbread House offers activities and crafts for kids. You can also snack on hearty food and seasonal beverages. Free to attend. 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; closes at 4 p.m. on Sat. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
November 30 Starcross Christmas Faire Visit the charming 1902 country farmhouse at Starcross Community and choose from a unique selection of holiday gifts including the extra-large, handcrafted Starcross wreaths, delicious sun-dried fruit trays, their own award-winning olive oil and Olio Nuovo, signed books by Brother Toby, crafts, food and gifts. 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Starcross Community, 34500 Annapolis Rd., Annapolis; 886-1919; www.starcross.org. • Geyserville Tree Lighting and Tractor Parade On the Saturday after Thanksgiving, Geyserville lights its downtown and parties with the best of them, welcoming Santa and cheering on the lighted tractor parade. Merchants serve food and wine, keep their doors open late and celebrate the season. 6 to 8 p.m., Downtown Geyserville; 857-3745; geyservillecc.com. Discoveries 13
West County
Ongoing (Area codes 707 unless noted)
Bird Walk at the Sonoma Coast Visit this Regional Parks site for wildlife viewing and exploring Bodega Bay. The saltwater marsh is home to thousands of birds throughout the year. A paved trail is moderately accessible for the disabled and leashed dogs are allowed. $7 for parking; free with County Parks pass. Coastal Access Trail, 355 Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay; 875-3540; sonoma-county.org/parks.
Bodega Lab Tours UC Davis Bodega Marine Laboratory invites drop-in tours for groups fewer than 10 people on Fridays from 2 to 4 p.m. (except Nov. 29). Displays and aquaria of colorful local species show the biodiversity of the northern California coast. Free. Call ahead for larger group tour arrangements. 2099 Westside Rd., Bodega Bay; 875-2211; bml.ucdavis.edu.
Shop with the Chef Participate in a chef’s tour of the offerings at Healdsburg Farmers Market and then attend a cooking demonstration at Relish Culinary Adventures, followed by lunch. Tour is free; there’s a charge for the cooking class and lunch. Second Saturdays, May through November, starting at 10 a.m. Downtown Healdsburg; 431-9999; relishculinary. com.
Sculpture Trail The Cloverdale Arts Alliance joined the Geyserville Chamber of Commerce in producing a Sculpture Trail. Take a self-guided tour, year-round, of outdoor sculpture installations located in and around the towns of Cloverdale and Geyserville. Sculptures change every nine months. Find maps and artist information on the website: cloverdaleartsalliance.org.
Charles M. Schulz Museum
“School Projects” is a current exhibit at the museum, where Peanuts strips reflect the trials and tribulations of the Peanuts Gang in elementary school. Also, “Barking up the Family Tree,” which traces the appearance of Snoopy’s band of siblings in the strip, concludes Oct. 14. Weekdays 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. (closed Tuesdays), weekends 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Free to members; $10 adults, $5 seniors 62+ and youth 4 to 18. Charles M. Schulz Museum, 2301 Hardies Ln., Santa Rosa; 579-4452; schulzmuseum.org. Healdsburg Museum
Healdsburg Museum & Historical Society Current exhibits include “The Movie Stars Next Door: Fred MacMurray, June Haver and the MacMurray Ranch” (ends Oct. 27) and “Farm to Table,” the agricultural heritage of northern Sonoma County and how we keep those traditions alive (ends Nov. 10). “Dia de los Muertos” runs Nov. 1-10. Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Free. 221 Matheson St., Healdsburg; 431-3325; healdsburgmuseum.org.
Pacific Coast Air Museum Open House From Skyhawks and Harriers to Phantoms and Tomcats, you can climb aboard and inspect the open cockpit of a featured aircraft every third weekend of the month. See website for admission fees. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Pacific Coast Air Museum, One Air Museum Way, Santa Rosa; 575-7900; pacificcoastairmuseum.org. 14 Fall 2013
Second Saturday Soirees in Windsor See the latest art exhibits, enjoy special presentations, and mingle with local artists on second Saturdays at the Windsor Arts Council gallery. 507 David Clayton Ln., Old Downtown Windsor; windsorartscouncil.com
Literary Café Every second Tuesday of the month, the Healdsburg Senior Center hosts an evening with special literary guests and open mic readings. Bring your own prose or poetry to share. Light refreshments served. Donations appreciated. 7 to 9 p.m., doors open at 6:30 p.m. 133 Matheson St., Healdsburg; 696-1111 (Cynthia); centerliterarycafe@gmail.com.
A Tavola Dining at Rustic Every Tuesday is “a tavola” dining at Francis Ford Coppola’s restaurant Rustic. Enjoy family-style service of Italian favorites from the Coppola family cookbook in a casual, convivial setting. $30 minimum per person. 5 to 9 p.m. Francis Coppola Winery, 300 Via Archimedes, Geyserville; 857-1462; franciscoppolawinery.com.
Dry Creek Kitchen Wine Seminars and Dinners Chef Dustin Valette creates a three-course dinner for the Wine Pioneers Series seminars. Reservations required. Seminar package is $99 per person excluding tax and gratuity. Select Sundays, seminars start at 3:30 p.m., dinners 5:30. Dry Creek Kitchen, 317 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 431-0330; charliepalmer.com..
Friday Night Live in Sebastopol One Friday a month, Sebastopol Community Cultural Center hosts a concert and dance, each with a different musical theme or genre. Food and drinks available for purchase. $10 adults, $5 under 18 years. 7 p.m., doors at 6:30. 390 Morris St., Sebastopol; 823-1511; seb.org.
Live Music at Aubergine Musical acts perform every night of the week at this funky Sebastopol nightclub that by day is a vintage clothing emporium. Mon. through Wed., catch music and open mic sessions at no cover. Thurs. through Sun. feature hotter shows, with cover from $5 to $20. Pub grub, pool tables and darts round out the good times. 755 Petaluma Ave., Sebastopol; 861-9190; aubergineafterdark.com.
Live Jazz in Healdsburg Relax in the lodge-like ambience of Hotel Healdsburg’s Fireside Lounge while listening to some of the Bay Area’s finest jazz musicians in duo and trio combinations. These year-round gigs are sponsored by the Healdsburg Jazz Festival. No cover. Every Friday and Saturday night, 7:30 to 11 p.m. Hotel Healdsburg Lobby, 25 Matheson St., Healdsburg; 431-2800; hotelhealdsburg.com.
Main Street Station Enjoy acoustic jazz, blues, folk, Celtic, or cabaret shows at this restaurant/pizzeria venue almost every night. No cover. Main Street Station, 16280 Main St, Guerneville; 869-0501; mainststation.com.
OnStage (Area codes 707 unless noted)
A Streetcar Named Desire
aged, Natural Black Angus hormone and antibiotic free slow cooked prime rib hand trimmed steaks fresh fish full bar cozy fireplace lounge Sonoma County wines
September 6 - 22 This tragic and effective drama ranks as one of the greatest in American theater. $30 general, $25 seniors 65+ and students w/ID. Fri. and Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. matinees, 2 p.m. Raven Players, Raven Performing Arts Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 433-6335 x11; ravenplayers.org.
Maritius September 13 - 29 Theresa Rebeck’s comedy concerns a family estate quibble over two priceless stamps and the “help” offered by three sleazy philatelists. $25 general; discounts for preview night, seniors and students. Thurs. through Sat. 8 p.m.; Sun. 5 p.m. Main Stage West, 104 N. Main St., Sebastopol; 823-0177; mainstagewest.com.
lunch weekdays 11:30 - 2:30 dinner every night at 5
4618 Old Redwood Hwy Santa Rosa, CA (707) 527-7768
Driving Miss Daisy September 13 - October 6 Revisit this humorous and affecting Pulitzer Prizewinning work about the unlikely relationship between an aging, cranky white Southern woman and a proud, soft-spoken black man. $15 general. Fri. and Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. matinees 4 p.m. Rio Nido Lodge, 4444 Wood Rd., Rio Nido; 583-2343; pegasustheater.com.
www.cricklewoodrestaurant.com catty corner from Wells Fargo Art Center
Wretch Like Me September 28 - 29 In his critically acclaimed, award-winning one-man show, David Templeton takes audiences on a sweetly hilarious, engagingly eccentric journey through his reallife days as a teen fundamentalist puppeteer in a merry band of blissed-out believers. $10. Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. 4 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-1124; occidentalcenterforthearts. org.
Celebrate the
Terra Nova October 18 - 27 Playwright Ted Tally used the journals and letters of Robert F. Scott to reveal the character and motivations of the British adventurer as well as depict the bravery and sufferings of his team’s final days in Antartica. $18. Fri. and Sat. at 8 p.m., Sun. matinees at 2 p.m. Cloverdale Performing Arts Center, 209 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale; 894-2214; cloverdaleperformingarts. com.
October 18 - November 3 Passion begets a murder plot, set in an atmosphere of mystery, terrifying suspense and a touch of the supernatural. $30 general, $25 seniors 65+ and students w/ID. Fri. and Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. matinees, 2 p.m. Raven Players, Raven Performing Arts Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 433-6335 x11; ravenplayers.org.
This Is Our Youth October 24 - November 10 Kenneth Lonergan’s play is about the very last wave of New York City’s 1960s-style liberalists who have come of age—with nowhere left to go. Follow 48 hours in the lives of three lost young souls living in the big city at the dawn of the Reagan Era. $25 general; discounts for preview night, seniors and students. Thurs. through Sat. 8 p.m.; Sun. 5 p.m. Main Stage West, 104 N. Main St., Sebastopol; 823-0177; mainstagewest.com.
SALUTING SONOMA COUNTY ARTISTS
Making
Art
Happen The preeminent art center in the North Bay Area 282 S. High St. Sebastopol, CA
www.sebarts.org 707.829.4797
ART PERFORMANCE LITERARY FILM CLASSES
Jerry Takigawa, False Food #3
Monique
Arts
ALL YOU NEED TO STAY TUNED TO THE LOCAL ART SCENE, EVERY MONTH. The Healdsburg Tribune The Windsor Times
Discoveries 15
“Buckeyes,” by Susan Ball at Graton Gallery
Art & About
(All area codes 707 unless noted)
Dolphin Gallery
Larain Matheson, paintings and Charis Webb, fiber vessels, Sept. 7 through Oct. 2; Jeanne Gadol, photography and mixed media and Alexis Moyer, ceramics, Oct. 5 through Nov. 13; Holiday Boutique, Nov. 26 through Dec. 29. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 39225 Hwy. 1, Gualala; 884-3896; gualalaarts.org.
Erickson Fine Art Gallery
Representing the best of Northern California painters and sculptors: Bobette Barnes, Joe Draegert, Finley Fryer, Chris Grassano, Susan Hall, John Haines, Jerome Kirk, Donna McGinnis, Tom Monaghan, Jean Mooney, Jeanne Mullen, Bob Nugent, Carlos Perez, Sam Racina, Carol Setterlund, Monica Steiner, Jeffrey Van Dyke, Paul Van Lith, Antoinette Von Grone, Kathleen Youngquist. Open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Wed. by appointment; 324 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 431-7073; ericksonfineartgallery.com.
Graton Gallery
“In Pursuit of Happiness,” Susan Ball and Frances Arnold with guest artists Thomas Creed and Bill Cutler, through Sept. 22; Artrails Preview Show, Sept. 25 through Oct. 20; “New Works,” James Freed and Sandra Rubin with guest artists Peter M. Krohn and Marcia Lavine, Oct. 22 through Dec. 1. Open Wed. through Sat. 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sun. 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed Mon. and Tue.; 9048 Graton Rd., Graton; 829-8912; gratongallery.com.
Gualala Arts Center
“Changing Urban Landscape,” art by Xia Gao, Sept. 6 through Sept. 16 Fall 2013
29; “From Here to There,” Mendocino Eco Artists Group Show, Nov. 1 through Nov. 24; “Festival of Trees,” Nov. 29 and 30. Opening receptions are the first night of the exhibit, 5 to 7 p.m. 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
Hammerfriar
Jann Nunn, Sept. 12 through Oct. 6, reception, Sept. 14, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Juried show, Sept. 12 through Oct. 6, reception, Sept. 14, 6 p.m. to 9 p.m.; Art Moura, Oct. 12 through Nov. 23. Rotating exhibits by established and emerging conceptual Sonoma County and Bay Area artists. Open Mon. through Sat., 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sun. noon to 4 p.m.; 132 Mill St., Suite 101, Healdsburg; 473-9600; hammerfriar.com.
Hand Fan Museum
“American Fan Collector 2013,” celebrating an American collector of fans with a grand opening reception on Nov. 10. Open Wed. through Sun., 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed holidays and rainy days. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 431-2500; handfanmuseum.org.
Healdsburg Center for the Arts
“Red Dot 2013,” Equilibrium Constructed, through Oct. 6, reception, Sat. Sept. 7, 5 to 7 p.m.; “A Measure of Light,” A Collection of Photography, Oct. 9 through Nov. 17; Holiday Gift Gallery, Nov. 21 through Jan. 1. 130 Plaza St., Healdsburg; 431-1970; healdsburgcenterforthearts.com.
Local Color Gallery
“Wildlife & Whimsy,” paintings by Ron Sumner and John Sumner, Sept. 11 through Oct. 14, reception, Sept. 14, 2 to 4 p.m.; “Expressions,” Phil Wright, photography and Samantha Buller, paintings, Oct. 17 through Nov. 17, reception, Oct. 19, 2 to 4 p.m.; “Celebration,” holiday gifts and
small paintings, Nov. 20 through Dec. 31, reception, Nov. 9, 2 to 4 p.m. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 1580 Eastshore Rd., Bodega Bay; 875-2744; localcolorgallery.com.
GALLERIES
Ren Brown Collection
“New Acquisitions from Japan,” etchings, woodblock prints, silkscreen prints and antique tansu chests, Sept. 4 through Oct. 20; “Celebrating the Season,” images of autumn, representative and abstract, Oct. 23 through Dec. 1. Ongoing contemporary ceramics, handcrafted jewelry and Japanese antique furnishings. Come visit our Japanese gardens, too. Wed. to Sun., 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 1781 Coast Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay; 875-2922; renbrown.com.
Renga Arts
Art, crafts and products made from reclaimed and re-used materials. Thu. through Mon., 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 2371 Gravenstein Hwy. So., Sebastopol; 823-9407; renga-arts.com.
Sebastopol Center for the Arts
Through Sept. 7, Main Gallery: “Not Just Landscapes,” Gallery II: Harry Frank, monoprints, Gallery III: “The Art of Healing,” Debbie Van Dyke; Sept. 12 through Oct. 19, Main Gallery: “ABZ etcetera,” Gallery II: “Landscape Impressions: en Plein Air,” by Donna DeLaBraindais and sculptures by Aaron Poovey, Gallery III: “Ink Tales,” etchings by Mary Prisland, Oct. 4 through Nov. 30, “Fiber Art VI,” innovative FiberArt work. Open Tue. through Fri. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sat., 1 to 4 p.m. 282 S. High St., Sebastopol Veterans Building, Sebastopol; 829-4797; sebarts.org.
Sebastopol Gallery
Open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 150 North Main St., Sebastopol; 829-7200; sebastopol-gallery.com.
Upstairs Art Gallery
Healdsburg’s historic, oldest gallery is artist-owned and exhibits a wide variety of fine art paintings and artisan crafts. Open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; 306 Center St., Healdsburg, on the mezzanine inside Levin & Co. Bookstore; 431-4214; upstairsartgallery.com.
Windsor Arts Council Gallery
Open Fri. through Sun., noon to 5 pm. Gallery: 507 David Clayton Lane, Old Town Windsor. n
Discoveries 17
DISCOVERIES
PICKS
Crossroads
5
Human inhabitants are greatly outnumbered by grapes and trees in the Russian River Valley. Yet the valley and its surrounding hills are home to a dozen villages, towns and hamlets — all proudly self-acclaimed by residents as being more quaint or funky than their neighbors. Traveling River Road, Bohemian Highway, Highways 116 or 12 or the many winding back roads presents motorists and cyclists with many crossroads and choices of the “road not taken.” Here’s five: GRATON Graton Road and the West County Regional Trail. Graton was all but abandoned through the 1980s when its only commercial establishment was Skip’s Bar and Grill. Now the one-block town is home to three restaurants (Mexico Lindo Restaurant, Underwood Bar and Bistro, and Willow Wood Market Cafe), Mr. Ryder and Company Antiques, Graton Gallery and wine tasting rooms, including Paul Matthew Vineyards. The crossroad choice here is whether to pedal or hike the West County Regional Trail, a former railroad right-of-way, now paved with trailhead parking. Head north and west to Forestville or in the opposite direction to Sebastopol and beyond. FORESTVILLE Highway 116 and Mirabel Road. Forestville is home to more than 3,000 people, living mostly on long, dead-end private lanes. The town has a hardware store and a pharmacy, plus eight eating places (Corks Restaurant, Backyard, Twist Eatery, Canneti Roadhouse, Carr’s Drive-In, La Rosa Market and Taqueria and more), a grocery store (Speers Market) and the terminus to the Regional Trail. You can drift down Mirabel Road to fill a picnic basket on your way to Burke’s Canoe Trips or the county’s Steelhead Beach. Forestville Youth Park is the county’s only non-profit, non-government park with ball fields, youth playground and a tree-shaded picnic area. DUNCANS MILLS Highway 116 and Moscow and Freezeout roads. Coast travelers see the carefully reconstructed village of shops (Cape Fear Cafe, Sophie’s Cellars, Mr. Trombley’s Tea, Christopher Queen Galleries, Quercia Gallery, Pig Alley, Worldly Goods and more). But 18 Fall 2013
turn at Moscow Road, and past the rodeo grounds and Blue Heron Restaurant you can find Freezeout Road, a long river frontage with a steep ridge that is the year-round home to many osprey families. The birds’ flights and fishing prowess is something to behold. OCCIDENTAL Bohemian Highway and Coleman Valley Road. This very winding very narrow, mostly-paved route to the ocean coast might be the region’s most scenic drive. It drops through deep, deep redwood groves and then climbs to a rocky ridge that is often windswept by the Pacific Ocean that stretches out to fill the whole western horizon. Once home to hippie communes and the Farallon Institute, there is still the Occidental Arts & Ecology Center and other semi-hidden remnants of The Sixties. Fuel up at the Union Hotel, Negri’s Original Italian Restaurant, Howard Station Café or Bistro des Copains, and check out some great art and crafts in the village’s collection of Main Street shops. FREESTONE Bodega Highway (Highway 12) and Bohemian Highway. One of the region’s smallest settlements, a visitor can find all the basic food groups here (Wild Flour Bakery, Freestone Artisan Cheese, Joseph Phelps Winery and the historic Freestone Country Store). Try Enduring Comforts for vintage and antique treasures. Osmosis Day Spa Sanctuary is also located at this crossroads, offering enzyme baths, massage therapy and tranquil Japanese-style Zen gardens. Almost finished with a renovation, the Watson School Historical Park has a visual and artifact display of the Running Fence, a large-scale art installation built by the artists Christo & Jeanne-Claude in the 1970s.
wine discoveries Moshin Vineyards 2011 Pinot Noir, Emoshin, Russian River Valley $46 /14.1 percent alcohol
Owner/winemaker Rick Moshin makes lots of different small-lot Pinots every year so it’s hard to pick a favorite. But it’s not proper etiquette to say “all of the above” so we pick this newer release of Rick’s from one of his favorite Middle Reach vineyards. This Pinot is lighter, in both color and body. It is very fragrant, with fruit tastes of cranberry, strawberry or other red fruits. (Added bonus: Moshin Vineyards has one of the most fun wine clubs, with seasonal special events with live music, open air film nights and hands-on winery tours.) Acorn Winery 2009 Acorn Hill, Alegria Vineyards Russian River Valley $45 /13.7% alcohol
All from the same mixed block estate vineyard, this red wine features 54% Syrah, 44% Sangiovese, 1% Viognier and smaller amounts of Canaiolo and Mammolo. The result is a delicious mystery of plum, bing cherry, hints of light coffee and a bit of mineral influence. The wine from this vineyard differs every year, and in 2009 the Sangiovese wasn’t picked until mid-October. The Sangiovese and Syrah blends were barrel aged separately for a year before the final blending and another year of oak aging. Viszlay Vineyards 2010 Sparkling Prosecco $35 /12.5% alcohol
This small winery with a 10-acre vineyard lies south and east of Healdsburg where they grow 12 different grapes including Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot,
Malbec, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Alicante Bouschet and the only domestically grown Prosecco in Sonoma County. It’s made in a very dry fashion, more austere than the usual Italian styles. This is not Spumante! With plenty of warm days ahead, try this change-of-pace cooler. Joseph Swan 2010 Saralee’s Vineyard, Russian River Valley Pinot Noir $36/14.5% alcohol
Winemaker Rod Berglund has been making classic Pinots from his neighbor Saralee Kunde’s vineyards for many years. This wine comes from one of the most challenging growing years of the past several decades, accented by an alarming heat spell in mid-August and followed by early rains. The weather diminished the crop size but not the fruit’s character. This Pinot Noir is spicier than most years, but still features soft tannins and great acidity. Buy now and drink it slowly over the next decade. Graton Ridge Cellars 2010 Russian River Valley Chardonnay $29/14.5% alcohol
Nick Legg is the winemaker for owners Art and Barbara Paul. With deep farming roots in Sebastopol’s (Green Valley and Gold Ridge) apple industry, the family built a winery on the location of a half-abandoned apple packing shed. Today, Graton Cellars offers between eight and 10 different wines each year. The 2010 Chardonnay offers a familiar and very versatile white wine, good for many food pairings, cheese tastings or quaffing. There’s plenty of oak and citrus flavors. It is 100 percent Chardonnay and 100 percent enjoyable.
FAVORITE RECENT RELEASES Discoveries 19
Russian River Valley Tasting Rooms ACORN Winery www.acornwinery.com Ancient Oak Cellars www.ancientoakcellars.com Arista Winery www.aristawinery.com Atascadero Creek Winery www.atascaderocreek.com Balletto Vineyards www.ballettovineyards.com Battaglini Estate Winery www.battagliniwines.com Benovia Winery www.benoviawinery.com Carol Shelton Wines www.carolsheltonwines.com C. Donatiello Winery www.cdonatiello.com Cellars of Sonoma www.cellarsofsonoma.com Chalk Hill Estate www.chalkhill.com Charles Heintz Vineyard & Winery www.heintzvineyards.com Christopher Creek Winery www.christophercreek.com Claypool Cellars www.claypoolcellars.com D’Argenzio Winery www.dargenziowine.com Davis Family Vineyards www.davisfamilyvineyards.com DeLoach Vineyards www.deloachvineyards.com Dutton Estate Winery www.sebastopolvineyards.com Dutton-Goldfield www.duttongoldfield.com Emeritus Vineyards www.emeritusvineyards.com Fog Crest Vineyard www.fogcrestvineyard.com Foppiano Vineyards www.foppiano.com
Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery www.garyfarrellwines.com Graton Ridge Cellars www.gratonridge.com Hanna Winery & Vineyards www.hannawinery.com Hartford Family Winery www.hartfordwines.com Harvest Moon Estate & Winery www.harvestmoonwinery.com HKG Estate Wines — Hop Kiln Vineyards www.hkgwines.com Holdredge Wines www.holdredge.com Hook & Ladder Vineyards & Winery www.hookandladderwinery.com Inman Family Wines www.inmanfamilywines.com Inspiration Vineyards & Winery www.inspirationvineyards.com Iron Horse Vineyards www.ironhorsevineyards.com J Vineyards & Winery www.jwine.com John Tyler Wines www.johntylerwines.com Joseph Swan Vineyards www.swanwinery.com Kendall-Jackson www.kj.com Korbel Champagne Cellars www.korbel.com Krutz Family Cellars www.krutzfamilycellars.com La Crema www.lacrema.com La Follette Wines www.lafollettewines.com Limerick Lane Cellars www.limericklanewines.com Longboard Vineyards www.longboardvineyards.com
Lost Canyon Winery www.lostcanyonwinery.com Lynmar Estate www.lynmarwinery.com Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery www.marimartestate.com Martin Ray Winery www.martinraywinery.com Martinelli Winery www.martinelliwinery.com Matrix Winery www.matrixwinery.com Merriam Vineyards www.merriamvineyards.com Merry Edwards Winery www.merryedwards.com Moshin Vineyards www.moshinvineyards.com Mueller Winery www.muellerwine.com Mutt Lynch Winery www.muttlynchwinery.com Novy Family Winery www.novyfamilywines.com Occidental Road Cellars www.occidentalroadcellars.com Old World Winery www.oldworldwinery.com Paradise Ridge Winery www.prwinery.com Paul Hobbs Winery www.paulhobbswinery.com Paul Mathew Vineyards www.paulmathewvineyards.com Porter Creek www.portercreekvineyards.com River Road Family Vineyards & Winery www.riverroadvineyards.com Robert Rue Vineyard www.robertruevineyard.com Rochioli Vineyards & Winery www.rochioliwinery.com Rodney Strong Vineyards www.rodneystrong.com
Russian Hill Estate www.russianhillestate.com Russian River Vineyards www.russianrivervineyards.com St. Rose Winery www.saintrosewinery.com Sanglier Cellars www.sangliercellars.com Sapphire Hill www.sapphirehill.com Seghesio Family Vineyards www.seghesio.com Selby Winery www.selbywinery.com Sheldon Wines www.sheldonwines.com Siduri Winery www.siduri.com Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards www.sonomacutrer.com Suncé Winery & Vineyard www.suncewinery.com Taft Street Winery www.taftstreetwinery.com Thomas George Estates www.thomasgeorgeestates.com Toad Hollow Vineyards www.toadhollow.com Trecini Cellars www.trecinicellars.com Twomey Cellars www.twomey.com Vinoteca www.vinotecataste.com Viszlay Vineyards www.viszlayvineyards.com VML Russian River Winery www.vmlwine.com Wind Gap Wines www.windgapwines.com Windsor Oaks Vineyards www.windsoroaks.com Woodenhead www.woodenheadwine.com
PLEASE NOTE: Listings include tasting rooms that are open to the public and by appointment. We gratefully acknowledge the support of our advertisers (listed in red) in this issue. 20 Fall 2013
W
inemaker Merry Edwards confesses to being “smitten” by the Russian River Valley and admits she has had a long “love affair” with the place, its climates, soils and natural beauty.
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY’S
MERRY EDWARDS
After more than three decades in the Sonoma County wine industry, when it came time to build her own winery in 2007, there could be only one choice. With her husbandpartner Ken Coopersmith, they converted an apple orchard to a nine-acre Pinot Noir vineyard and placed their state-of-the-art winery facility on the land, just outside of Sebastopol near the Laguna de Santa Rosa and Green Valley. Her new neighbors were the Sterlings of Iron Horse, the Duttons, Steve Kistler, Tom Dehlinger and winemaker Rod Berglund of Joseph Swan Vineyards.
WINEPEOPLE
A self-proclaimed perfectionist with a background as a winemaking consultant, wine lab technician and visiting teacher at UC Davis, Edwards was the first to separate the highly popular Pinot Noir clone UCD 37. Today, it is simply called “Merry’s clone.”
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Friendly advice and global selection
Last year, Merry was inducted into the Culinary Institute of America’s Vintners Hall of Fame. She also has been nominated six consecutive times as a finalist in the James Beard Foundation’s annual awards for Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional, winning the award in May 2013. But Merry’s favorite place is in her Russian River Valley vineyards. She makes Pinot Noir from eight different vineyards located in the north reach of the valley below Healdsburg, also adjacent to the cooler Green Valley and a few more on both sides of the Laguna. As one of the top producers and winemakers of Sauvignon Blanc, Merry sources those grapes from another six Valley vineyards. What all the vineyards have in common is the cool climate and longer growing season where temperatures can swing by as much as 50 degrees in a day. Following warm and sunny days, fog often creeps in at night, allowing the acids in the grapes to linger, adding a unique Russian River Valley feel and structure to the wines — wines Merry Edwards makes with love and expert skills.
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[ PAIRINGS ]
THE UPSIDE OF NEIGHBORHOOD
DIVE BARS photo by Sarah Bradbury
BY JESSIE POSHEPNY The truth is, all of us love a good, local, fun, quirky place to let loose and maybe grab a bite to eat or drink. That is what I found at many of the dive bars I visited in the Russian River area. Those that stood out truly had that neighborhood feel and were places where you felt welcome to be yourself. So go ahead and get out of your comfort zone, visit a few of these cool spots. You may be surprised what awesomeness you will find inside. On a recent Sunday afternoon, I visited the Russian River Pub, Stumptown Brewery and Rainbow Cattle Company, each unique in their own way and all residing along the beautiful Russian River.
Russian River Pub
I truly fell in love with the charm of the Russian River Pub in Forestville. Every inch of the redwood walls are covered with the writings of locals — people who have been coming since they opened in 1972, some who have passed on and people like me who pass by. The writing is personal, and all of those people took the time to climb high or bend down and stamp a memory permanently on a wall for all to read, much like a yearbook. The Russian River Pub has been a staple in Forestville for 22 Fall 2013
many years. Wendy Illg, the current owner, wanted to maintain the comfortable neighborhood bar feel that has always been there, while weaving in some newness. The pool table remains in the center of the dining room. Local beer is still served on tap, and now they offer a menu with something for everyone. The menu consists of all of the usual pub suspects: the juicy charbroiled burger, the chicken breast sandwich, B.L.T. and salads. The pub also some mouth-watering signature dishes: tri-tip sandwich with caramelized onions and blue cheese piled on top. This is the very sandwich Guy Fieri drooled over during an episode of his Diners, Drive-ins and Dives. My personal favorite is the killer prime rib sandwich, a juicy delight you will not want to pass up. Changing it up daily, Wendy and her cooks come up with daily
These dives are truly neighborhood bars, giving a real experience to real people for a really good price. specials that are surely not to disappoint. In keeping with a cozy pub vibe, this dive on the Russian River offers an enticing and ever-changing brunch menu on Saturdays and Sundays. I recommend Eggs Benedict (crab cake, if in season) paired with an iced cold Bear Republic Racer 5. With the growth of the craft beer industry, you will find an array of local favorites on tap to pair with the delectable brunch menu, all right here in our backyard. You will also find great service from a waitress who is literally doing eight things at once and she is doing it all well.
Stumptown Brewery
A dive bar shout-out would not be the same without recognizing Stumptown Brewery, located a few miles down River Road in Guerneville. Stumptown got its name for the ancient redwood stumps left behind after the milling of the many redwoods used to rebuild after the great 1906 earthquake. This local favorite offers a variety of craft beers on tap alongside their three house brews: Rat Bastard Pale Ale, Bootlegger IPA and Bush Wacker Wheat. Stumptown Brewery has a full bar and kitchen and does something unique — bacon paired with a Bloody: a crispy bacon Bloody Mary. Of course, bacon is good with anything and most enjoy bacon on and in everything, but you haven’t lived until you sip this delicious treat on the back patio at the Stumptown Brewery overlooking the river. This brewpub is cash-only so come prepared (they also have an ATM). The 20 Harleys I saw outfront, the awesome Bloody Marys, river access and locals that sit at the bar and shoot the gossip with the cool bartender contribute to the rustic, dive bar status.
Rainbow Cattle Company
For a daytime or evening visit, try the Rainbow Cattle Company, a no-judgment neighborhood bar known for bringing people together. Right in the heart of downtown Guerneville, you cannot miss the rainbow flags waving across the top of
the building. If the name and the flags do not give it away, I should say that this is one very cool, friendly gay bar and everyone is welcome at the Rainbow. The Rainbow has been open since 1979 and has made a valiant effort to give back to the community. One of the coolest things about the Rainbow Cattle Company is the train above the bar. On “Giveback Tuesday,” a local charity is selected to be the recipient of that day’s cash donations and 10 percent of sales. Patrons may also donate directly to that fund and, when you do, the bartender sends the train moving along its tracks and everyone cheers. It only takes one dollar to make this train holler, so be sure to throw down! Any local charity may be nominated by simply letting the Rainbow staff know they’d like to be included. Not only does this bring in visitors but also continues to support nonprofits such as the Guerneville Volunteer Firefighters, Food for Thought and the West County Health Services. The Rainbow is known for its flashy visitors, bear-like men and signature “mason jar drinks.” Try an iced tea rainbow-style, either a Long Island, Long Beach or a Tokyo. They pair their cocktails with a bowl of salty Pringles: Once you pop, you can’t stop — and then you’ll want another iced tea!
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Real experiences for real people
I have lived in Sonoma County all of my life, and it was not until recently that I spent so much time in Guerneville and Forestville. These special places are right in our own backyards, and until recently, I did not even know they existed. They are funky, fun, low-key places that offer food and drink unlike any other place in the Russian River Valley. These dives are truly neighborhood bars, giving a real experience to real people for a really good price. Take a chance like I did and try something new — support the local neighborhood bars and be sure to “dive” responsibly. n Discoveries 23
How the Russian River Valley Shapes
Beautiful Wines
Approved in 1983 as an American Viticultural Area (AVA) encompassing 30,200 acres, the Russian River Valley has experienced a not-so-little growth spurt. Boundaries have swelled in the last 10 years, and the growing region now totals about 169,000 acres and is home to roughly 130 wineries and 30 grape varieties, including those most widely planted, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. 24 Fall 2013
“There were some mixed emotions and opinions about the expansion,” said Russian River Valley Winegrowers manager Shannon Wesley. More than a few locals recount passionate discussions between members while the expansion was awaiting approval, and it’s possible that the complicated growing region that is filled with a multitude of soil types and microclimates may see further definition in the future. Two sub-AVAs—Green Valley AVA and Chalk Hill AVA—are already categorized within the greater Russian River Valley AVA. The recent boundary increases added land to the east and south of existing boundaries, notably all of the Santa Rosa Plains and Sebastopol Hills, and incorporated land to the south and southeast, areas west of Rohnert Park and Cotati.
The Fog’s Influence
story by Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez photography by Sarah Bradbury
Unique soil and climate are a few factors that delineate a growing region or appellation—and in the Russian River Valley, the climate really sets it apart from other areas. Fog is a big influence, causing a nighttime 35 to 40 degree Fahrenheit temperature drop from the daytime high (aka diurnal temperature variation). As the name suggests, the Russian River is a significant geological feature that greatly influences the area by acting as a conduit that pulls in fog from the Pacific Ocean, aided by the Petaluma Wind Gap. “The fog belt coming up through the river cools the nights, and the days are warm,” said Joe Rochioli Jr. of Rochioli Vineyards and Winery in Healdsburg. Fog floats in during the evening hours, covering some areas of the Russian River Valley more than others and creating unique microclimates throughout the region. “Rarely do temperatures reach 95 degrees here,” said Rochioli, who has vineyards close to the Russian River on Westside Road. Rochioli grew up on the estate property and knows it well. He is 79 years old and still makes daily drives down vineyard rows to check on the grapes. “I’ve been doing this all my life,” said the man who was one of the first to plant Pinot Noir in the Russian River Valley in the 1960s. Many followed suit, and today Pinot Noir is responsible for about 5,000 acres of the region’s planted vines. Chardonnay is the leading variety and encompasses 6,500 acres. “The weather here is really ideal for growing Pinot Noir,” said Rochioli, about the variety that helped the Russian River Valley to achieve international acclaim. The Rochioli vineyards are in one of the cooler sections of the region, and grapes stay on the vine longer than in neighboring areas. The prevalence of fog in parts of the valley creates a long “hang time” for grapes that tend to ripen slowly, developing a desirable fruitiness in the grape. But it’s not just the climate that makes certain areas of the AVA hospitable to Pinot Noir and other varieties; it’s also the soil types found in various pockets of the region. Discoveries 25
Grapegrower Joe Rochioli, Jr.
Kaleidoscope of Soil Types
Soil tells a story about the land’s geological past and, historically speaking, the Russian River region had — and still has — a lot going on as active fault lines demonstrate. Volcanic activity and the fact that much of the area used to be an inland sea for the Pacific Ocean has left a kaleidoscope of various soil types, and a few of the predominant types in the Russian River Valley AVA include Goldridge, Sebastopol and alluvial. At Moshin Vineyards, also on Westside Road in Healdsburg, there is a plethora of Goldridge soil, characterized by welldraining, fine, sandy loam. “It’s a reddish soil that has sand, iron and minerals,” said Moshin Vineyards winemaker/proprietor Rick Moshin. According to Moshin, a long, narrow strip of Goldridge soil stretches from Healdsburg to Sebastopol. “Wine made from Pinot Noir grown in this soil 26 Fall 2013
tends to be elegant and spicy, while Pinot grown in other soil types within the region can be more expressive but not as pretty,” he said. Goldridge was formed when volcanic ash landed over bedrock due to tectonic shifting and volcanic activity. Sebastopol soil is more clay-based than Goldridge but is still sandy and was formed when water flowing off the Sonoma Mountains, located in Santa Rosa and bordering Sonoma Valley, carried clay deposits with it. Benchland regions of the Russian River Valley consist of alluvial soil types that combine silt, sand, clay and gravel. These are rocks, soil and sediment that were eroded by water over time. In many vineyards, it’s not uncommon for different soil types to be ridiculously close to one another. This is true in the estate vineyards at Moshin Vineyards where one vineyard row is planted in Goldridge soil and, within feet, the soil profile changes
to a mixture of sandy Goldridge soil with more clay components. “The roots of the vine will pick up different elements from the soil,” said Moshin, who planted Pinot Blanc on a half-acre of the vineyard soil that contains more clay. “Pinot Blanc likes stress and wants to fight to survive,” he said. Moshin makes a small amount of the varietal that is in high demand at the tasting room and somewhat of a “newcomer” to the Russian River Valley.
Diverse Terrain
Low-lying plains, rolling hills, valleys, coastal benchlands and rocky mountains are all part of the Russian River Valley’s diverse terrain. Elevations range from 100 feet to about 900 feet. The AVA stretches south and west of Healdsburg to the Russian River where it continues in the west toward the Pacific Ocean then southward toward San Francisco. Covering about 150 square
miles, the AVA incorporates land in a number of West Sonoma County small towns or villages. Forestville, Graton and Occidental are a few examples, but parts of larger towns and cities, like Santa Rosa, Healdsburg, Windsor and Sebastopol, are also included within the AVA’s boundaries.
Green Valley
Nestled between the towns of Sebastopol, Forestville and Occidental is Green Valley, a designated sub-appellation within the Russian River Valley AVA. The fog in Green Valley tends to be heavier than in other areas, making for an optimal climate for both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vines. “There’s an old saying around here, that you can set your watch by the fog,” said Laurence Sterling, operations manager at Iron Horse Vineyards in Green
portant to note that Chardonnay thrives there as well. Sixty percent of the Green Valley AVA is made up of Goldridge soil, and that soil type is found in the Iron Horse estate vineyard blocks. Older rocky Franciscan is another soil type that shows up often in Green Valley. Franciscan is a sandy clay loam that’s light brown in color and has more magnesium content than Goldridge. There are eight wineries and more than 100 growers in the Green Valley Appellation. DeLoach Vineyards, Dutton Estate Winery, DuttonGoldfield, Emeritus Vineyards, Hartford Family Winery, Iron Horse Vineyards, Marimar Estate and Orogeny Vineyards are located in the small growing region that is famed for success with the finicky and hard-to-grow Pinot Noir variety. Chardonnay, a consumer favorite
Low-lying plains, rolling hills, valleys, coastal benchlands and rocky mountains are all part of the Russian River Valley’s diverse terrain. Elevations range from 100 feet to about 900 feet. Valley. “I’m not so sure about that,” he added, admitting that each day he gets a weather report via the Internet. But even when the fog isn’t present, temperatures remain lower than in surrounding areas. “Our orientation to the Petaluma Gap brings in cooler air from the coast,” explained Sterling. The two leading winegrapes of the Russian River Valley, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, are grown on Iron Horse estate property and used to make still wines as well as sparkling. When comparing the growing patterns of the two varieties, Sterling said, “Chardonnay is much more giving. Pinot Noir is this Goldilocks grape that needs everything to be just right.” What the two have in common is a preference for a cooler climate and similar needs from the soil. Pinot Noir is widely planted in Green Valley and it has received a lot of attention—but it’s im-
and a staple for farmers in the area, also grows exceptionally well in Green Valley and is often planted alongside Pinot Noir. Interest in the varietal exploded in the 1980s and is still going strong today. “This is a really great place to grow Chardonnay,” said Sterling. Of white wines on the store shelves, it’s likely that a Chardonnay will be chosen over many others. “About 22 percent of all wine produced in California is Chardonnay, and the Russian River Valley produces some of the best Chardonnay in the world. We do it well,” said Randy Luginbill, Russian River Valley Winegrowers president.
Chalk Hill
In contrast to the Green Valley subAVA, the Chalk Hill sub-AVA is one of the warmest locations. “We’re on the cusp of the Alexander Valley and the property is somewhat of a transition
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from the cool Russian River Valley to the warmer Alexander Valley,” explained Mark Lingenfelder, VP of Vineyard Operations at Chalk Hill Winery. Although Chalk Hill is well known for whites and Chardonnay is the predominant planting, the climate and geography also make it possible to grow Bordeaux-style varieties like Cabernet, Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot. Three hundred acres of vines are planted on the Chalk Hill Estate that is home to 13 different soil types. “It’s very geologically
diverse,” said Lingenfelder. White wine varieties are often planted on the estate property in Spreckels loam, Arbuckle and Felta soils, common loamy soils with various amounts of gravel components. On the east side of the property, Dibble clay loam provides a hospitable environment for Merlot and Malbec, and in the west reaches of the estate are volcanic soils like Red Hill clay, Goulding cobbly loam and Toomes soil. The area is good for growing Cabernet Sauvignon and is “geographically com-
[ Page 24-25 ] Fog drifts over the hills and vineyards above Westside Road in Healdsburg [ Page 28 ] top— Iron Horse Vineyards operations manager Laurence Sterling in the winery’s Green Valley tasting room; bottom— Moshin Vineyards winemaker/proprietor Rick Moshin in his Healdsburg vineyards
pletely different than the other side,” said Lingenfelder. Situated along a section of the active Roger’s Creek fault line (part of the larger San Andreas fault line), the property remains in constant transition and many of the rolling hills are a result of “uplift” from the shifting that is happening below the ground. Other parts of the property show signs of past volcanic activity, where lava flows likely carried soils from other locations and deposited them on Chalk Hill. The various soil types are “like a patchwork quilt or a jigsaw puzzle,” said Lingenfelder. It’s not surprising then that it was a soil type that actually is responsible for the Chalk Hill namesake. The white soil that looks like chalk at first glance is actually volcanic ash, and that is how the name originated.
The Valley’s Reach
Looks can be deceiving, and the Russian River Valley as a whole is bigger than a lot of people realize. West Sonoma County’s Russian River resort area and Healdsburg’s beaches are generally what comes to mind when the Russian River comes up in conversation, but the Russian River actually extends clear into Mendocino County to the north and southwest all the way to the Pacific Ocean, leaving in its tracks a multitude of micro-climates that range dramatically in terms of temperature, topography and water availability. The Russian River Valley AVA incorporates a segment of what is actually the Russian River Valley—but the river’s impact is nevertheless significant, to say the least. n *AVAs are winegrape growing regions distinguishable by geographic features and are granted by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB) of the United States Treasury Department. Discoveries 29
Tracing the Dutton Name through the Russian
a
River Valley
t what might be the exact geographical center of the Russian River Valley, there is a large building on a high hill with a man’s name on it. Learning why the name is there and following his life as a farmer, father, community leader and accidental visionary might be the best way to learn how this land and its fruit have gained world-prominence over the sweep of just two generations. The name is Warren G. Dutton Jr. and the building is the Santa Rosa Junior
30 Fall 2013
story by Rollie Atkinson Photography by Sarah Bradbury
College’s Agriculture Pavilion, which houses a wine laboratory, classrooms, demonstration kitchen and indoor equine and showcase arena. Dutton was the first president of the SRJC’s Foundation Ag Trust Committee and led the campaign to raise funds to build the new facility at the school’s 365-acre Shone Farm, just off Eastside Road in the Middle Reach of the Russian River Valley. The building was dedicated in 2006, five years after Warren’s death at age 57. Discoveries 31
What Dutton the farmer and his other new grape growing neighbors believed to be true was loudly announced to the world in 1976 when a Chardonnay made with Russian River Valley grapes by Calistoga’s Chateau Montelena won the Paris Tasting over all of France’s top white burgundies. A fourth generation farmer, Dutton’s story and the timeline of his many impacts on the region and its grape growing industry begin way before his final years as family patriarch and influential ag leader. As a young man born to farming prunes, apples, walnuts, pears and other crops, Warren and his wife Gail moved in 1964 from the Santa Rosa family ranch to Green Valley, just west of Graton. The 35-acre ranch had half-tended apple trees, berry bushes and a few acres of French Colombard that fetched $88 per ton at harvest. Three years later, in 1967, Warren and Gail bought 20 more acres and planted their first Chardonnay vineyard, defying all their friends’ and neighbors’ warnings that the Green Valley climate was too cold to grow the famous white Burgundy grape. Today, more than 6,500 acres of Chardonnay are planted in the Russian River Valley, home to 150 growers and roughly 130 wineries. Another French Burgundy grape — Pinot Noir — also has made the long, meandering valley a world-famous name. Almost 5,000 acres of vineyard are planted to Pinot Noir. But just over 40 years ago, Warren Dutton was just a farmer looking for a grape that might ripen faster than his French Colombard. “Warren hated those grapes,” remembers Gail Dutton Peterson, who still lives on the original Green Valley ranch, with her two sons and grandchildren living on nearby ranches as well. “We were always harvesting during heavy rains. One year we had to use heavy bulldozers to get the fruit out.” The young Dutton couple, still a few years away from having their first son 32 Fall 2013
Steve in 1967, didn’t do any viticultural mapping or agrarian research to find their Russian River Valley ranch that is now the operation hub for 1,300 acres and the headquarters for Dutton Ranch, one of the region’s largest and most sought-after vineyard development and management firms, led by sons Steve and Joe. “We looked at three different properties. One in Dry Creek (Valley), some land in Geyserville and this place,” tells Gail. “This was the only property that already had a house on it, so we took it.” Who knew the Green Valley and Russian River Valley would become as famous as Burgundy or Bordeaux in the wine world? “Warren just wanted to farm,” says Gail. “That’s all he ever wanted except he would read everything. He never stopped educating himself.” Later in his years, newcomers, halftrained winemakers and old apple growers with newly planted grape vineyards would seek out Warren’s advice. “The house and office was always full of people asking for his advice. I told him he needed to start charging for his services,” laughs Gail. For several years Gail and Warren continued operating a popular fruit stand in Santa Rosa on Sebastopol Road, near the current-day Dutton Avenue, not far from the Dutton Branch of Exchange Bank, where Warren’s father and uncle had worked for many years when they weren’t farming.
Russian River Valley
Renaissance The Dutton name, of course, isn’t the
only prominent name in the re-discovery and transition years of the Russian
River Valley. And, long before the middle of the 20th century, there were the Korbel Brothers and the Martini & Prati wineries, first established in the 1880s and able to survive the Prohibition Era of the 1930s. There were other early growers as well, but nearly all of the fruit was destined to become Italian-style jug wine. But a renaissance was slowly developing in the Russian River Valley when those with thirsty curiosities and a little exposure to the great wines of Europe joined Dutton and started planting Chardonnay and Pinot Noir vineyards. They started making single-vineyard wine in small, carefully fermented lots and aged in French oak barrels. Some of these people were Joseph Swan, Rodney Strong, Davis Bynum, Barry Sterling, Tom Dehlinger, Steve Kistler and others. All of them believed that they had just found heaven, a beautiful verdant valley ringed with redwoods, covered by blankets of fog in the summer, re-charged with winter rains every year and offering soils made from uplifted sea beds, volcano ash and alluvial fine gravel and clay mix. In 1983, the region officially became the Russian River Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA), today totaling almost 169,000 acres. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines made here win international awards, fetch super-premium prices and define a lifestyle that Warren Dutton helped create, but often joked about. “Funny, but we weren’t big wine drinkers in the early years,” tells Gail. “But Warren would say, ‘we have to drink this wine. It has our name on it.’” What Dutton the farmer and his other new grape growing neighbors believed to be true was loudly announced to the
[ Page 31 ] Steve Dutton walks through the family’s Gravenstein orchard; Joe Dutton, Gail Dutton Peterson and Steve Dutton are pictured at the family ranch in Green Valley. The handmade sign (above) at the Dutton Ranch truck barn was made for a fundraiser for Shone Farm, home of the Warren G. Dutton, Jr. Agricultural Pavilion.
world in 1976 when a Chardonnay made with Russian River Valley grapes by Calistoga’s Chateau Montelena won the Paris Tasting over all of France’s top white burgundies. “Our whole world changed after that,” tells Gail. “Our name started to get added to the bottles.” In 1979, Steve Kistler produced a Dutton Vineyard Chardonnay that is still being made today. The Dutton name is now on wines produced by such premium wineries as Ramey Wine Cellars, Patz & Hall, Chasseur Wines, Lewis Cellars, Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Lost Canyon Winery and many others. In 1994, Warren and Gail’s son Joe and his wife Tracy (Kozlowski) started Sebastopol Vineyards/Dutton Estate Winery, buying grapes from the family’s vineyards. Four years later, son Steve and winemaking partner Dan Goldfield started their DuttonGoldfield Winery, also sourcing Dutton grapes. The Dutton-Goldfield label is also prominent in the latest “hot” Pinot Noir growing region, the Sonoma Coast. Warren didn’t live long enough to see this other very cool region get
discovered. But he did plant one of the first modern Pinot vineyards on an eastfacing hill above Freestone. All the while, the Duttons have continued the historic apple-growing heritage of western Sonoma County, now farming 220 acres of organic orchards, mostly Gravensteins. “We will always grow apples,” says Gail. “We love growing apples.” Following Warren in 1977, both Steve (1999) and Joe (2000) were named Outstanding Young Farmer at the Sonoma County Harvest Fair. The Dutton family was honored with a Viticulture of Excellence award in 2002 by the Sonoma County Grape Growers Association. This past year the family was also honored with the Santa Rosa Junior College President’s Medallion for their many contributions and ongoing leadership roles in both education and the ag industry. Given the choice of fame, fortune or farming, it seems pretty obvious what Warren Dutton’s choice would be — and his legacy.
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ALL GROWS WELL IN THE •
RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
Before grapes, a diverse agricultural history •
1812
1861
1882
1887
Russian settlers at Fort Ross plant grapes, believed to be the first vineyards in Sonoma County.
U.S. Civil War begins.
Korbel brothers begin making champagne and wine in Guerneville.
Giuseppe Martinelli plants vineyards in the Russian River Valley, including Zinfandel on the Martinelli family’s now-renowned Jackass Hill.
1846 Cyrus Alexander plants grapevines at his ranch on the Russian River near Healdsburg. 34 Fall 2013
1881 Horticulturist Luther Burbank supplies rancher Warren Dutton with 20,000 prune trees to plant in Santa Rosa.
1885 Burbank starts his Gold Ridge Experiment Farm in Sebastopol.
by Frank Robertson
Russian River Valley ranchers drinking at Skip’s Bar in Graton after the harvest 60 years ago would have surely raised a glass to the apple crop. The Gravenstein was then king of the hills around Sebastopol, where more than 11,000 acres of apple orchards supplied a thriving national market after World War II. “Apple producers had a very favorable year,” Sonoma County Agricultural Commissioner Percy Wright reported in his 1953 crop report. “Returns were greater than all other fruit and nut products combined.” Not all farmers celebrated, though. “Prune and pear crops were severely hit by frost,” said Wright’s report. “Grape prices were low, especially on white varieties.”
ed among the 12,000 acres of grapes growing in Sonoma County. Prunes and hops got more attention. French prunes fetched $250 a ton that year when thousands of acres of prunes grew in what are now the Russian River Valley’s world-famous wine AVAs: Alexander Valley, Dry Creek Valley, Green Valley and the Russian River Valley. Prunes were “a hot commodity at the
“At one time Sebastopol had 25 warehouses packing fresh apples along the railroad tracks,” wrote Lisa Correia. Gravensteins, “the most famous apples grown here … were always the first to ripen and left Sonoma County on trains bound for the East Coast. They were also the primary source of applesauce and dried apples used to feed US troops during World War II.”
Among the “white varieties” growing in Sonoma County in those days, Chardonnay wasn’t even on the list. White winegrapes were not much in demand, fetching $33 a ton on average compared to $43 for “black” wine grapes, as red grapes were called. The top varietal was Zinfandel, a grape in demand for the jug wine market. Pinot Noir, the current big star (with Chardonnay) of the Russian River Valley American Viticultural Area (AVA), barely existed in 1953, with just 51 acres harvest-
time,” says the Dutton family history on their Dutton Ranch website. Besides prunes and pears, the Duttons, one of the Russian River Valley’s preeminent winegrowing families who settled here in the late 19th century, grew mostly apples. Dutton Ranch and other long-established West County family names, including Barlow, Frei, Furusho, Hallberg, Hotle, Jewell, Maddocks, Martinelli, Menini, O’Connell and Walker, were helping to make Sebastopol and the Russian River Valley “world-famous as an apple growing
region,” reported the Sebastopol Times. “The historical importance of Gravenstein orchards to the social and economic history of the Russian River Valley is unquestioned,” wrote Jack Soper, in an essay for the Duttons about the valley’s evolution. Sebastopol became “the apple epicenter,” wrote Soper, with its busy railroad line hauling apple products from Sebastopol’s Gravenstein Station area along the old Petaluma and Santa Rosa railway on which “apples were freighted out to the markets of America.” Gravenstein Station, the rustic mall complex on Highway 12, hasn’t seen a train move an apple or anything else since about the early 1980s. (As an aside, today’s tenants include Sebastopol’s only outlet for medical marijuana, another hot western Russian River Valley commodity. Although not mentioned in crop reports, it may be more lucrative than grapes.) The train station reprises many historic relics from the Gravenstein glory years. The Barlow, Sebastopol’s trendy new collection of tasting rooms, restaurants and shops on the city’s east side, used to be the Barlow Apple Cannery. The Southpoint Shopping Center on Gravenstein Highway South was once the Furusho family’s apple plant. On Gravenstein Highway North, the sprawling Vacu-dry plant processed apples for major brands like Quaker, Nabisco and Kellogg’s.
1920
1933
1945
1968
Prohibition begins, affecting 256 wineries in Sonoma County.
Prohibition ends. Only 50 Sonoma County wineries remain.
The Second World War ends.
1928
1939
First year there’s a Sonoma County crop report. Prunes are the most valuable fruit crop, valued at $2.7 million.
The average market price per ton for grapes is $16. Before Prohibition it was $30. A ton of Gravenstein apples is worth $114.
Warren and Gail Dutton plant the first Chardonnay vineyard in the Green Valley area of Graton.
Joe Rochioli, Jr. plants Pinot Noir grapes on the Rochioli family’s Westside Road ranch.
1967
Discoveries 35
“Total winegrape tonnage was up 60 percent last year, as more than 267,000 tons were processed in 2012, valued at $582,942,100,” reported Tony Linegar, the county’s newest ag commissioner. “This represents the largest recorded winegrape crop in the history of Sonoma County.”
age, tonnage and price, builds slowly in the 1960s, then spikes in the ’70s through the ‘90s, leaving old standby crops such as prunes and hops a distant memory. An early inkling of what was to come popped up in 1962: a separate accounting for “premium” winegrapes. The rationale for the new category was “an increased interest in varietal grapes for wines,” wrote Percy Wright. “Vintners are paying a higher price for these grapes.” Within 10 years prune acreage was down by 4,000 acres, “but this is being replaced rapidly by winegrape plantings,” said a new Ag Commissioner, Harry McCracken. The premium grape market, noted McCracken, “has a promising outlook.”
Winegrape Acreage vs Apple Acreage 1979 - 2012 70,000
60,000
50,000
Acres
“We had a tremendous infrastructure of packing sheds, dryers and canneries with access to the large markets of the burgeoning San Francisco Bay Area,” wrote Assistant Sonoma County Agricultural Commissioner Lisa Correia in her 2010 crop report that included a tribute to the apple’s legacy. “At one time Sebastopol had 25 warehouses packing fresh apples along the railroad tracks,” wrote Correia. Gravensteins, “the most famous apples grown here … were always the first to ripen and left Sonoma County on trains bound for the East Coast. They were also the primary source of applesauce and dried apples used to feed US troops during World War II.” Since Western Civilization arrived with the Russians in the 19th century wine grapes were always planted, but not in such a big way. As moneymakers, chicken farms and dairies were always on top in Sonoma even into the 1970s. In the 1850s potatoes were a major crop. In the 1870s tobacco for cigars was grown in the valley. “There were at least 17 cigar makers” in Sonoma County in 1875, according to the Sonoma County Historical Society. The Korbel Brothers came to Guerneville in 1872, first as timber operators before they became wine and champagne makers. For a long time, compared with grapes, “Almost every other fruit was more profitable,” recalled one old timer. The Russian River Valley as an appellation (American Viticultural Area) didn’t even exist until 1983, and by then the die was cast. County crop reports over the past 60 years chart the dramatic trend to vineyards. The momentum, in terms of acre-
It wasn’t until 1969 that the annual report began to itemize the acreage and value of each red and white varietal. There were 107 “bearing acres” of Chardonnay that year. Five years later Chardonnay acreage had jumped to more than 1,800 acres; in the next five years it would double again to 3,701. “Grapes are replacing many prune orchards throughout the county,” reported McCracken in 1972, noting steadily higher winegrape prices. By 1973 the winegrape’s crop value had topped $21 million, with more than half the value attributed to premium grapes. The average price per ton was $605. By 1985, when the city of Santa Rosa was dumping 750,000 gallons of treated wastewater into the Russian River to drain the city’s overflowing wastewater storage ponds, Chardonnay acreage had doubled again to more than 7,000 acres. Milk held the highest crop value in Sonoma County as recently as 1986, but
Apples
40,000
Grapes 30,000
20,000
10,000
0 79
82
85
88
91
94
97
00
03
06
09
12
Year
Sonoma County Crop Reports from 1979 to 2012 chart the dramatic trend to vineyards. The 2012 crop report noted 2,195 acres of apples and 58,348 acres of winegrapes. —Source: Sonoma County Crop Reports, 1979-2012
1973
1979
1987
1998
Davis Bynum makes the first single-vineyard Russian River Valley Pinot Noir with grapes from the Rochioli vineyard.
Hobby winemakers Burt Williams and Ed Selyem begin making wine in a garage in Forestville with Zinfandel grapes from the Martinelli’s Jackass Hill Vineyard and Pinot Noir from Rochioli’s vineyard. In 1981 they bottle a few commercial cases.
Williams Selyem’s 1985 Rochioli Vineyard Pinot Noir is named Sweepstakes Winner at the California State Fair. Williams Selyem is named winery of the year.
New York venture capitalist John Dyson buys Williams Selyem winery for $9.5 million.
36 Fall 2013
the wine crop was catching up fast at more than $60 million. The next year winegrapes went out in front and never looked back. Within another five years grapes were worth more than double the milk crop’s value, $148 million compared to $64 million. As for prunes, by 1995, “The prune crop was essentially eliminated,” said another new Ag Commissioner, Eric Lauritzen. “Only 26 dry tons were harvested. This once proud Sonoma County crop continues to decline in acreage.” In just a few years the average price paid for a ton of red wine grapes had more than doubled, from approximately $600 to nearly $1,500. Since then it’s doubled again. When this year’s report came out you could hear the corks popping. The average price for a ton of Pinot Noir grapes was more than $3,000. “Total winegrape tonnage was up 60 percent last year, as more than 267,000 tons were processed in 2012, valued at $582,942,100,” reported Tony Linegar, the county’s newest ag commissioner. “This represents the largest recorded wine grape crop in the history of Sonoma County.” As the late Warren Dutton said in 1999, when his family was completing its transition to high-end vineyards, “It just makes more sense to grow grapes.” And what happened to Skip’s, the down-home watering hole in Graton? The same thing that happened to wine country. It went upscale. Skip’s is now the Underwood Bar and Bistro, where they say you might run into a celebrity winemaker. It’s still a good place to go for a drink, too, especially a glass of local wine. A bottle of Merry Edwards 2010 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir is only $75. That’s not apple juice. n
2012 The reported total crop value for Sonoma County is $821,345,000. The winegrape crop’s value is $582,942,100. There is no mention of prunes.
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Recalling the Triangle Trip
The Halcyon Days of Russian River Resort Life story by Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez
B
efore the days of inter-state and air travel, vacations naturally happened a bit closer to home, and this was true for many San Franciscans and those from the greater Bay Area and Sacramento who regularly flocked to the Russian River in Sonoma County for a little summer fun. A peek into the past would reveal long lines at the north end of San Francisco’s Ferry Building in the early to mid-1900s. Buying tickets for “vacationland” along the Russian River is what the hustle and bustle was all about. “In the 1920s the trip to the Russian River from Sausalito was by train, and it was so popular it had a name. It was called the triangle trip,” said Russian River historian/author John Schubert. The triangle trip delivered people to the lower Russian River but also made stops in coastal areas like Point Reyes and Tomales. There was a separate train route to the Healdsburg section of the Russian River. From San Francisco, the ferry would take passengers to San Rafael where they’d catch the train and finally arrive at chosen destinations on the Russian River where there was a plethora of sunshine, resorts and entertainment.
Vacation Wonderland
The town of Monte Rio was a popular choice for many vacationers. “That town rocked and rolled,” Schubert said. Many enjoyed the area so much that they purchased real estate there and stayed all summer, every summer, for years. But for those who didn’t have a summer home, the Monte Rio Hotel on the Russian River was a popular place to book accommodations and the hostelry could handle large crowds. “It was three stories high and built into the hillside. Then they added another two stories at street level, making it five stories,” Schubert explained, adding, “It had the first elevator in Sonoma County.” The Monte Rio Hotel was rebuilt many times and in 1927 had seven stories. Sully’s Resort and the Glen Rita were also happening spots in Monte Rio, and these hotels also offered tent cabins as a form of lodging. “These were wood platforms upon which walls would be built to frame the tent that was made of canvas,” Schubert said. 38 Fall 2013
During the winter months, the tents would come down but the platforms remained intact until the next season. Russel Resort was yet another place to stay in Monte Rio. Built in close proximity to the beach, those who made reservations enjoyed sunbathing, canoeing, fishing and exploring the Russian River as well as live musical entertainment and dancing. “There was a lot happening at the hotels and many had dining halls and dance pavilions as well as activities like bon fires and sing-alongs,” said Schubert. Stage music was a main attraction at the hotels and often the best college bands would be booked for the whole summer, returning year after year. But if the hotel happenings weren’t satisfying enough, there were other venues for dancing that just so happened to feature the biggest names in jazz of the era.
Big Bands Delight Dancers
My grandmother, Constance Sandborn, and her sister, my great aunt Edith Norton, were locals from Sebastopol but had a summer home on the lower Russian River that they visited on weekends during the Big Band Era. Although they’ve both passed now, I took down a few notes when they told stories about the fun times they had dancing on the Russian River. “I remember Phil Harris Orchestra as well as Teresa Brewer. It was ‘40s music and we danced the jitterbug and swing. It was a good time and we enjoyed meeting people from outside the area,” said my aunt Norton, who attended most of the dances with her boyfriend, who eventually became her husband. “We didn’t stay all week because we had to go back to Sebastopol and dry pears on the weekdays. I bought a bicycle with my money and my sister bought a canoe, which she paddled up and down the river.”
Discoveries 39
Historical photos courtesy of Sonoma County Library and Russian River Historical Society
My grandfather and grandmother were dating at the time, and my grandfather speaks highly of my grandmother’s rowing skills, as she would sometimes arrive at a dance hall with a boatload of friends, by moonlight, in her canoe. “Girls would come to the dances alone or with a group of friends; it was very safe,” explained Claire Harris, owner of Johnson’s Beach and former manager of the Rio Nido Dance Hall. Locals and vacationers intermingled at the dance halls and there was often a big turnout of 1,000 people or more.
Big Bands, Big Business
Securing contracts with the bands was serious business, and The Music Corporation of America (MCA) was the booker. Artists like Buddy Rogers, Duke Ellington, Harry James, Woody Herman and Ozzie Nelson stopped in Portland, Oregon first and then traveled along the Russian River before moving on to Santa Cruz. Playing at venues in Guerneville, Rio Nido, Forestville and Healdsburg, there were plenty of op40 Fall 2013
“There was a lot happening at the hotels and many had dining halls and dance pavilions as well as activities like bon fires and sing-alongs.” — John Schubert
The town of Monte Rio was a popular choice for many vacationers. “That town rocked and rolled,” Schubert said. Many enjoyed the area so much that they purchased real estate there and stayed all summer, every summer, for years. portunities to dance or just listen to music. There was dancing seven nights a week and the cost was 50 cents on weeknights and 75 cents on weekends. Getting from one place to the next along the lower Russian River was easy to do, and an adventure in and of its own with water taxis making rounds from Monte Rio to Guerneville, or from the Rio Nido Dance Hall back to a hotel in Monte Rio. There were several boats that taxied vacationers to and fro. “Bidwell Green’s boat was called the Russian River #3019. It had a seating capacity of 22 people but then was expanded to fit 32 passengers,” said Schubert, who remembers riding the boat as a kid. There were three other boats making regular trips to various hot spots along the lower Russian River as well: the Montrio,
the Sonoma and the Anona were their names. The Sonoma was more of an excursion boat that would take tourists to the Jenner area and back. Another main attraction along the Russian River was in Healdsburg where Fitch Mountain and Merryland Beach were the two main attractions. Merryland Beach is where Memorial Beach is today, and it was also home to a water taxi/ excursion boat that would basically take passengers from one side of the river to the other. “It was short-lived but very cool,” said Holly Hoods, research curator for the Healdsburg Museum. The paddleboat could seat 75 and would take beach goers from the shores of Merryland Beach across the river to a restaurant/bar called “The Ark.”
The Palomar dance hall at Del Rio Woods in the Fitch Mountain area was a popular venue that featured the big bands that also played on the lower Russian River. “It had a really good swimming beach and a general store, too,” said Hoods. Visitors often stayed at Camp Rose, also on Fitch Mountain. Camp Rose became another summer home community on the Russian River. “During the summer, moms and kids would spend the weekdays and then the fathers would join the family on the weekends,” explained Hoods. Last but not least, was the French resort Villa Chanticleer, also located on Fitch Mountain. “It catered to the French-speaking tourists who visited from the city (San Francisco),” said Hoods. There were many repeat customers year after year and even a French chef was hired to cook the many delectable dishes that reminded the clientele of life in France. The Villa Chanticleer still stands today and is used primarily as a meeting place for gatherings like weddings, conferences and seminars. Accessing the Villa now is just a hop, skip and a jump from the plaza in Healdsburg by car, but guests in 1910 would arrive by horse and buggy.
Continuing the tradition
Driving to the Russian River from San Francisco takes about an hour and the area still sees a steady stream of vacationers from the city and beyond. There are families who’ve passed down the summer homes from one generation to the next and still exercise the tradition of summers spent on the Russian River. Plans for Sonoma-Marin Area Rail Transit (SMART) are also in the works for Sonoma and Marin counties, soon revitalizing many of the old railroad tracks that stretch from the Russian River area to Marin so travelers will be able to follow in the footsteps of their ancestors and take the ferry to San Rafael, then board a train bound for the Russian River where beaches, musical entertainment and more still beckon. n
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Discoveries 41
From Garden
to Gourmet KEEPING THE RESTAURANT SCENE ULTRA-LOCAL IN GUERNEVILLE
story by
Abby Bard photography by
Sarah Bradbury
Two Russian River Valley restaurants in Guerneville are keeping it all local, using the freshest available ingredients and passionate vision to create amazing food with big flavors that match the excellence of the wines. A Shared Vision at Applewood Inn
Applewood Inn dinner chef Tyja Taube 42 Fall 2013
In 2009, retired businessman Carlos Pippa bought the beautiful Missionstyle Guerneville Belden estate, built in 1922, which had been operating as the Applewood Inn since 1985. He and his partner, Sylvia Ranyak, are focused on creating a romantic atmosphere where couples can “disconnect from the rest of the world and reconnect with each other and nature.� They welcomed me to their serene, retreat-like property,
surrounded by apple trees and were eager are Carlos’ “right-hand men.” Like all the created in the kitchen. On a busy night, the to take me on a tour of the garden, which staff of Applewood, they pitch in wherever staff serves 85 guests. Ty outlined the drill: “I’m in charge of the savory dishes, Shelley is central to their vision of an ecological needed to support the shared vision. is on the grill and pastry, Josh is on sauté, path, connecting roses and lavender, bees Patricia is on the pantry and makes desand hens, and providing food for the Inn’s Working in Harmony guests. This sense of harmony and spirit of learn- serts, and Clifton and Keegan are prepping The restaurant at Applewood is open to ing is echoed in the restaurant kitchen. and helping everyone. I’ll be jumping from the public for dinner Wednesday through Dinner chefs Tyja Taube and Michelle place to place. The pace is unbelievable!” Produce comes from three sources: Sunday. “Our menu is 100 percent Russian “Shelley” Cerneant maintain the calm, River-centric,” Carlos said. “We have cooperative atmosphere established by the onsite garden; daily deliveries from GreenLeaf, a Bay Areaa steady crew. They do a based distributor of local good job. It’s harmonious and sustainable farm prodand they understand each ucts, representing small other.” organic farms; and from We entered the garden Ty’s farms in Sebastopol, through graceful handwhere he also raises pigs, wrought iron gates and chickens for eggs, a heritage walked along a gravel path breed of rabbits, and dairy flanked by fig trees. Straight goats. Applewood also ahead, raised planting beds buys meats from Salmon surround a bed of roses and Creek Ranch in Bodega, a small greenhouse, where Felton Acres, Golden Gate gardener Ashley Britton Meat Company and Santa raises vegetable starts from Rosa Meat and Poultry. organic seeds. This cenGrowing up in Mendocino, tral garden is surrounded Sebastopol and Kauai, Ty by a variety of fruit trees: is co-owner, with Loren figs, pears, dwarf cherries, Crotty, of the CSA Giving quince, plums, peaches and Gardens Project in Santa olives, and a naranjilla, reRosa and is an avid mushminding Carlos of fruit he room forager. ate as a child in Equador. At Shelley studied anthe left side of the garden, a thropology at Sonoma state-of-the-art composting State after growing up in system rapidly turns garden Orange County. Her interwaste into rich compost for ests turned to ethnobotany, the plants. To the right, an then herbs and, ultimately, extensive strawberry patch cooking. She and Ty first provides abundant fruit for met at the Culinary Arts guests’ breakfasts, and, at Program at Santa Rosa the top of the slope, a huge Junior College. solar panel array, provides Although the Applemore than enough power wood menu leans toward to supply the Inn’s needs, Chef Ty Taube brings produce from his garden to Applewood’s kitchen. Tuscan-style, Ty is influallowing the property to be enced by other cuisines, energy self-sufficient. At the far edge of the garden, backed by previous chef Bruce Frieseke (now at particularly Japanese techniques and flaredwoods, a spacious fenced yard encloses Bella Winery in Healdsburg). According vors. I watched him compose a dinner a handsome chicken house. Carlos ordered to Carlos, “Shelley is methodical. She’s a entrée plate of miso-glazed filet of black 100 chickens last spring; when 99 arrived rock, always on top of the food costs and cod: “The filet sits for five days in a sake, he dubbed them “the 99 percent.” Nearby purchasing. She’s also a great grill chef. Ty miso and sugar cure, then is rinsed, airare eight natural-wood beehives, lovingly is the artist.” Both chefs love to cook fish, dried and portioned. It’s a savory, sweet, Japanese-style preparation.” He cooked tended by beekeeper Luis Vasquez, who particularly trawl-caught wild salmon. also maintains the property and serves Less than one percent of the ingredients the filet on a cast iron skillet for a perfect breakfast to the Inn guests. Luis is teach- used at Applewood come from a can – crispy texture, placed it on Dungeness crab ing the Inn’s chefs and gardener about the truffles, coconut milk, fermented fish paste claws and brilliant green broccoli flavored bees. He and breakfast chef Jesus Melgoza from Asia, for example. Everything else is with grilled scallions in a gleaming white Discoveries 43
From Boon: Flash-fried Brussels sprouts with chili, lemon and garlic and the Boon Burger, topped with pickled red onion
bowl, topping it with crispy farm-raised mushrooms, a drizzle of toasted sesame oil, a garnish of bright green cilantro and a table sauce of ginger broth.
Sharing Knowledge
With fulltime gardener Ashley as a teacher, Carlos and Sylvia are learning to become gardeners themselves, engaging in many aspects of the process. A self-described “freelance garden fairy,” Ashley has been volunteering in organic gardens, landscaping and growing her own food for eight years. Her addition to the team last March has been a positive change for the kitchen staff. “I can just tell her, ‘I need lettuce, garnishes,’ and she brings it from the garden, washed and ready to use,” Ty said. Ashley is happy to grow whatever the chefs want, but they say, “Grow whatever you like and we’ll use it.” And so she does. As she tucks black calypso beans among sunflower plants, she says with a smile, “Growing food is the very best thing we can do at this place and time. I can’t imagine my life without the plants.” The garden already provides basil, pineapple mint, chive blossoms, borage, calendula and pomegranate flowers, and Chef Shelley is eager to see more herbs added to Applewood’s garden, particularly a culinary bay tree and a Berggarten sage, a compact variety with unique flavor, which she’ll use in pancetta roasted potatoes, smoked pork chops with brown butter and Meyer lemon sauce, and buttercup squash soup. In autumn, the fig trees at Applewood will ripen, and Ty will gather wild huckleberries in Mendocino to use in a sauce for 44 Fall 2013
Muscovy duck breast. He’s also contemplating a Halloween-themed vegetable red curry for autumn – “pumpkin and garnet yam, served in a small ornamental pumpkin and paired with black rice.”
The minimalist décor at Boon Eat and Drink … is visually refreshing, sandwiched between the iconic Guerneville 5 & 10 and a string of bars, on Guerneville’s Main Street. The only sign visible from the sidewalk is a slice of redwood embossed with an orange letter “b” … This multi-faceted young culinary dy dynamo grows 25 varieties of citrus at his farms and hopes to raise quail for eggs, declaring “a fried egg goes with almost anything” as he carefully sets one on a platter composed of bright green flowering broccoli de cicco on a swirl of saffron butter, glazed carrots, a corn and fava bean sauté, morel mushrooms conserved in olive oil, and mustard greens garnish. His enthusiasm is contagious. In the midst of preparing the vegetable dish at hand, he offers me a peach. “Here, try this – it’s from Pleasant
Hill Orchards in Sebastopol – the first local peaches of the season.”
Country Simplicity
The restaurant dining room décor is simple and rustic, with tile floors and walls painted in a Tuscan palette of warm reds disand ochres. Traditional farm tools are dis played at the top of the simple wooden stairway leading up to the entrance of the barn-style building. “It’s not fancy. Guests will not find chandeliers here,” Carlos says, but they will find their dinner served on fine ceramic ware from Germany and France and Frette table linens. To mainmain tain a romantic, quiet environment, the bar serves only wine and beer, including their own Applewood Cellars label Russian River Pinot Noir. The entire team is seriously focused on highcreating a dining experience of the high est possible quality — Applewood had a Michelin star in 2012, but lost it in 2013. Ty is working toward getting that back.
Keeping People Happy at Boon
Boon Eat and Drink chef/owner Crista Luedke sat down with me in the front of her tiny, 36-seat restaurant and ordered us up some of her specialties. The restaurant was packed at lunchtime with more than 20 bicyclists on a Backroads bike tour, some visitors from Palm Springs, and a couple on their honeymoon. Tables are set closely together; the conviviality from people enjoying the food spills over to the whole room. Crista believes people want to go where it’s busy and does not agree with the attitude that ‘bigger is better.’ “I love the efficiency,” she said,
Duncans Mills Christopher Queen
Antiques of all kind
Galleries
Fresh Flowers to Go
In the log cabin on B Street
Early California & Contemporary Art
707-865-9897
707-865-1318
Weddings a specialty Custom orders gladly accepeted
Daily except Tuesdays
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Brunch on Holidays & Weekends
Twice as Nice We buy estates, trade and barter
Patio Seating Available
LOCATED IN DELIGHTFUL DUNCANS MILLS
707 865-9246
Hours: Mon, Wed, Fri 10am to 8:30pm; Tue 10am to 3pm, Sat, Sun 9am to 8:30pm
Antiques and Collectibles
Art, Antiques, Furniture, and Knick-Knacks 25200 Hwy. 116 • Duncans Mills
707.865.2498 707.837.6261
Daily 11-5, closed Tu. & We.
(707) 865-9672 | jimandwillies.com 25193 Highway 116, Duncans Mills
Mr. Trombly© s Tea Purveyors of all things tea
Where you will find fantasy and fun for all ages …from mind bending puzzles and toys to fused art glass & fine weavings. Fine loose leaf tea in bulk | Tea of the Month Club Largest selection of New & Vintage Teapots in California Local Honey | Fine food items | Tea ware | Gifts Located behind Cape Fear Restaurant
707-865-9979 | mrtromblystea.com Open Mon-Sat 10-6 Sun 11-5
Summer: Open 7 Days a Week
25171 Main Street Duncans Mills
865-2715 “The Trolls are Waiting” Discoveries 45
jumping up to help the wait staff reorganize tables when some new patrons came in, calling out a welcoming “come on in, gang” and ushering them into the cozy, heated entryway dining space. The minimalist décor at Boon Eat and Drink — shades of grey and silver inside, with a bright white exterior and bright orange chairs on the sidewalk — is visually refreshing, sandwiched between the iconic Guerneville 5 & 10 and a string of bars, on Guerneville’s Main Street. The only sign visible from the sidewalk is a slice of redwood embossed with an orange letter “b” hanging off the roof of the building.
All in the neighborhood
We shared three of her signature dishes: flash-fried Brussels sprouts with chili, lemon and garlic; a sophisticated mac and cheese with gourmet mushrooms and truffled bread crumbs; and a trio of colorful beets, glistening on a plate tinted pink and yellow from their juices, and garnished with local goat cheese and toasted hazelnuts. All of the wines she serves at Boon fit within a certain criteria: “Either grown or made by my neighbors in the Russian River Valley. I’m doing my part to support them,” Crista explained. Beers are from Bear Republic Brewing Company in Healdsburg, Anderson Valley Brewing Company in Boonville and North Coast Brewing Company in Fort Bragg. Vegetables featured in nightly specials, like the Bulls Blood beets in the signature salad, are grown in Crista’s two gardens. One, with chickens, is at the hotel; the other is on the back lot behind Boon, where a sturdy wire fence encloses rows of tomatoes, beans, sunflowers and squash; beds of kale, Swiss chard and chives. She relies on GreenLeaf to supplement the produce needs. Additional eggs come from Porter Bass Winery in Guerneville and mushrooms from Gourmet Mushroom Co. in Sebastopol. Crista grew up in restaurants. “It’s always been in my blood.” Born in Wisconsin, she moved at age nine to Arizona with her mother. Before coming to Guerneville, she spent 1998 to 2008 in the San Francisco Bay Area, working with Jen Johnson, the personal chef for the Getty family (and one of Crista’s major culinary influences) on large catering events. She knew she 46 Fall 2013
Applewood gardener Ashley Britton believes “growing food is the very best thing we can do at this place in time.”
wanted to own a hotel in wine country and Guerneville was the perfect choice. Boon Hotel and Spa on Armstrong Woods Road opened in 2008; Boon Eat and Drink in 2009; and, in 2011, Big Bottom Market, a gourmet deli and bakery opened just a few doors down from Boon, featuring a biscuit recipe passed down from Crista’s grandmother and baked daily by her mother, who joined Crista in Guerneville in 2008. The name Boon, which means “a gift, or blessing, is shared with Crista’s pitbull-mix rescue dog (adopted in Boonville), whose silhouette is stenciled on the grey walls above the tables at the restaurant. “He’s the best little greeter and pool boy at the (dog-friendly) hotel,” she says proudly.
Fresh and Simple
For the menu at Boon, “I’ll explain my
concept to Chef Sergio Guzman, and then we’ll tweak it together. He’s been here almost three years, so he gets me.” This seasoned collaboration between the chefs results in some delicious eating. Perhaps noticing that I was resisting the urge to lick the juices off the plate that held the glorious beets, Crista suggested I try the Boon Burger, made with Humboldt County grass-fed, organic beef. A burger for dessert? Why not? It arrived perfectly cooked, pink and juicy on the inside and seared to a delicious crunch on the outside, topped with pickled red onion and surrounded by crispy truffle fries garnished with house-made aioli and ketchup. Definitely one of the best burgers I’ve ever tasted; I asked for a box to take the leftovers home so I could lick the plate in privacy. n
Experience Costeaux, Nationally Acclaimed Retail Bakery of the Year
[ Resources ] Applewood Inn is open for
Full service bakery and cafĂŠ widely acclaimed for its rustic breads, irresistible desserts and simply elegant wedding cakes. Serving breakfast & lunch daily from 7 am
dinner Wednesday through Sunday from 5:30 to 8:30 p.m. The entrance is one-half mile south of the bridge crossing the Russian River at 13555 Hwy 116 in Guerneville. To reserve a table for dinner, call 800-555-8509. Their website is www.applewoodinn.com.
Boon Eat and Drink is
open daily, except Wednesdays, for lunch (11 a.m. to 3 p.m.) and dinner (5 to 9 p.m.) and for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. 16248 Main Street, Guerneville. 707-869-0780, info@eatatboon.com. Find menus on www.eatatboon.com
A Healdsburg tradition since 1923
costeaux.com 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg 707.433.1913
Trione Vineyards & Winery For more than three decades, the Trione family has carefully farmed and managed 750 acres of some of the finest grapes in Sonoma County. With painstaking devotion to the land, the Trione family has developed a reputation for producing premium grapes, and in 2005, they decided to start their own portfolio as Trione Vineyards & Winery.
Trione Vineyards &Winery 19550 Geyserville Ave. Geyserville, Ca 95441 Our tasting room is open to the public. May-October: ThursdayMonday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. November-April: ThursdaySunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 707-814-8100 www.trionewinery.com
Discoveries 47
[ DAY TRIPPING ]
SEASONAL FARM STANDS
48 Fall 2013
STORY BY PATRICIA M. ROTH
Three small but mighty merchants of produce PHOTOGRAPHY BY SARAH BRADBURY
T
here’s something in the eyes of small family farmers that humbles me. Maybe you’ve seen it, too — how they look dog-tired and deeply peaceful at the same time. What I noticed, also, is that it’s no trouble to answer your questions, be they about the origin of a bean, the flavor of an apple or the best pumpkin for a pie. We’re day tripping to farm stands this issue, where you can meet the farmers, celebrate harvest season and get ready for the holidays. Whatever makes you happy — baking, canning, carving, decorating or just eating local — share some good times with friends and family during visits to these farm stands in Graton, Sebastopol and Santa Rosa.
WALKER APPLES: 27 VARIETIES AT AN APPLE RANCH RICH IN HISTORY
The landmark white barn at Tierra Vegetables
If you’d like to experience the evolution of apples in Sonoma County — and stock up on fruit for your pies, sauce, butter and more — take a drive to Walker Apples farm stand in Graton. Just drive through the town of Graton, and continue for about a mile past town until you see a red wooden “apple” sign at a bend in the road letting you know that apples lie ahead. The sign points right, which means you keep going straight onto Upp Road (the street sign is hidden by tree branches). You’ll find 27 varieties of apples waiting for you at the end of this scenic dirt road that winds gently upward past vineyards and orchards, with more signs posted now and then to let you know you’re on the right path. Before you know it, you’ve arrived at a working apple ranch — or as Lee Walker Jr. says, a place that’s got “some Christmas to it” year-round. So get out your recipes and make a list. As the Walker’s brochure states: “All apples can be used for eating or baking — some are just better for baking than others. If you ever have any questions or when apples are ready, just give us a call. We’re here and ready to help you.” This year, the calls started coming in July, Lee Walker said, mostly return customers — from Petaluma to Oregon — asking whether the Gravensteins are “ready just yet.” “Oh, we get about six or seven calls a day now,” Walker said. “It’s friendly. They call me by name. They’re people we’ve known for a long time now.” When I visited Mr. Walker in August, we stood by a 100-year-old Discoveries 49
A Simple Touch Spa Indulge... Relax...Renew...Rejuvenate Massage Therapy, Aromatherapy Baths, Body Polishes and Body Wraps. Walk-Ins Welcome Open Every Day 10am - 8pm 239 Center Street, Suite C Healdsburg ❖ 707.433.6856 www.asimpletouchspa.com
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823-7845 The Windsor Times
Signage gives the apple-seekers confidence as they approach Walker Ranch and the scenic dirt road that winds gently upward past vineyards and orchards.
Gravenstein tree, one of the originals planted by Walker’s grandfather in 1910. The lichen-covered branches were heavy with fruit, and some Gravs were as big as the former baseball pitcher’s palm. I asked Mr. Walker how he would describe the perfect apple. He pointed to one and said, “That’s pretty nice. These are starting to get some color now. They’ll color up and get all stripey. Yeah, they’re pretty nice.” Walker said the crop’s beautiful this year and larger than last. You can see many different varieties of apples growing on the terraced hillsides near the farm stand, located inside a large packinghouse. Walker planted those trees close to the stand so the fruit would be easy to haul down and sell. Inside the packinghouse, there’s a packing line that’s been in use since the family started processing and trucking apples to the wholesale houses in San Francisco. Wooden crates are stacked ceiling-high, larger bins have their place on the floor. Slightly out of sight sits a 1927 Model T that Walker called his “toy” and a faded red 1954 Ford Golden Jubilee tractor that he said is still being used to work the orchards. Blue ribbons and first place statues line a shelf. Prices are listed on an apple-shaped blackboard. You can buy apples by the bag or the box. “If you buy them by the bag or the pound, it’s $1 a pound. It’s $15 for a halfbox and $27 for a 40-pound bushel,” Walker said.
Walker’s farm stand has been going strong at the family’s Graton ranch since 1968, though it’s not their first stand. “In most of those days, the apple country was not a really good living. It was a good living but it wasn’t really profitable. So we kept trying to find ways to get more money, and so we rented this little fruit stand over on 116, used to be Gravenstein Highway North, at Susan’s Corner. My wife Shirley and I rented a stand there and started selling apples on the weekend. With two children, it was very difficult to take care of them and be over there, so we came here. We started selling off the ranch, and it gradually evolved into a big thing. “I think we had a good plan. We concentrated on the old varieties — and that’s how we started out. The Bellflower, the Baldwin, the Arkansas Black. All these apples were in these old orchards, and we just brought ’em back. We promoted them. Before we would just take them in for juice and didn’t especially pay attention to them. It just happened.” Walker said that years back you had to “really hustle” to sell apples. “Nowadays the Gravenstein is a specialty crop, and there are only about 800 acres left in the area. There’s a big demand for what we have — the Gravenstein — there aren’t many. It’s a specialty apple.” So pull out your pie recipes and canning jars, grab your family and friends, and take a drive to the small West County town of Graton. A slice of history and homegrown apples await you.
HALE’S APPLE FARM & PUMPKIN PATCH: SOMETHING FOR EVERY TASTE
From the flattened deep-orange Cinderallas to the bumpy Red Warties and the palest blue Sweet Meats, you’ll find pumpkins to bake, carve or display at Hale’s Apple Farm in Sebastopol. Located on Highway 116, you can’t miss the blaze of colors spilling onto the lot in front of a weathered red barn where Dave Hale’s great uncle once milked the family cow and made repairs to farm equipment. Now the barn serves as a farm stand during harvest, run by Dave and his wife Jill, where they sell homegrown pumpkins, squash, gourds and more than 30 varieties of apples, from tart to sweet, picked daily from a 20-acre adjacent orchard. They also have an assortment of heirloom tomatoes, and apple cider’s available “when the apples are sweet enough to squeeze,” Dave said. At September’s end, a skeleton from the past rides a rusty tractor festooned with autumn’s bounty as the place takes on the spirit of Halloween. By then, pumpkins, gourds and squash will be piled on hay bales and wooden pallets, shaded by a tall pine tree with long sloping branches. The thing to remember is that everything is seasonal so there will always be something new to discover between opening day and closing, traditionally around Thanksgiving. “As soon as the Gravensteins are ripe and start tasting good, we open — and it has been as late as August 15 and as early as the third week of July,” Dave said. At Hale’s farm, there are two seasons. “The growing season runs January to August, and August through November is the harvest season. It’s a small family farm, everybody gets out there and gets the stuff in.” Dave’s day typically starts at 4 a.m., a pace he keeps so he can maintain the farm, to which he’s been dedicated for the past 33 years. He took it on just after high school, and now runs it with his uncles. “There might be 20 to 30 different varieties of pumpkins. Each one has its own characteristics. I do a whole variety
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Dave Hale in front of his farmstand on Hwy 116, where you’ll find apples, pumpkins and squash
stand has plenty of options. Most importantly, all are fresh and crisp. There must be close to 3,000 varieties of apples worldwide, Hale said, and a lot of them don’t make it in the mainstream market — many of those that do have been sitting in cold storage. “It’s really a huge injustice to the population of this country because a lot of people don’t get to taste the varieties that have really good flavor,” Dave said. But Dave has dedicated his life to making sure people know what it means to bite into a product tended by family farmers. “I’m happy doing what I do, and it’s kind of neat when a little kid bites into one of our apples and then you see him eat the whole thing, instead of biting into a supermarket apple and he takes one bite of it and then throws it on the ground. So that makes me feel pretty good.”
TIERRA VEGETABLES: THE ‘CHEERS’ OF FARM STANDS
There must be close to 3,000 varieties of apples worldwide, Hale said, and a lot of them don’t make it in the mainstream market— many of those that do have been sitting in cold storage.
of gourds and pumpkins because I don’t know what people are going to gravitate towards so I like to have something for everybody,” Dave said. “Gourds are used for artwork. You can paint them, you can drill holes in them and put stuff in them. You can turn them into flower vases. It’s up to whatever somebody wants to do with them,” he explained. Availability of tomatoes depends largely on the weather. Apples, of course, are big. “During the season, we have over 30 different varieties. I have a lot of the heirloom varieties. Some of these have exquisite taste. The most unique one is the Pink Pearl; it has pink flesh and is quite tart. We’ve found there is a semi-subculture of people who like tart apples — not just for cooking but for eating as well. 52 Fall 2013
“Belle de Boskoop is the tartest apple I have. It originated in Holland. I’ll have a few of them available but we won’t be inundated with them. Spitzenberg, I’ll have that one in October; it’s a tart apple with complex flavor. That was supposed to be Thomas Jefferson’s favorite apple. Benjamin Franklin’s favorite apple was Pippin. I have the original Newtown Pippin.” Dave has a discriminating palette and is able to distinguish each apple’s unique characteristics. “The Wine Saps, Arkansas Blacks, Black Twigs — those are all apples that have tannic acid in them. It’s really funny because all the people who like the tannic varieties will buy all three of those varieties.” For those who like sweet apples, the
Tierra Vegetables produces a rainbow of vegetables and fruits in the fall — and if you take a walk through the 13 acres of farmland behind their 1924 trademark white barn, you’ll be able to see where and how they’re grown. Back at the barn, you’ll likely run into farmers and siblings Lee and Wayne James as well as Tierra’s marketing queen Evie Truxaw, who really does know just about every farm stand customer’s name, adding credence to a comment by farm stand sales rep Jesse Froehlich, who stated: “We’re the ‘Cheers’ of farm stands.” Tierra’s shady barn is used for storage, and the patio is laden with pesticide-free, sustainably grown produce. Bring a big basket to gather your fare, and note: “Everything is seasonal so everything comes and goes like the wind,” Evie said. You can check www.tierravegetables.com to see what’s fresh before you arrive, but from August through Thanksgiving (and depending on the season), you’re likely to find eggplants, multi-colored peppers, cabbages, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, potatoes, squash, winter greens, lots of chiles, onions, green beans and more. “In the fall, there will be lots of peppers. The peppers are so fragrant. When these really start coming in, it smells crazy good in here,” said Evie. Strawberries have been known to be
ripe until nearly Thanksgiving — melons, too — but again, nothing is certain in farming. You can count on finding an assortment of dried beans, salsa and mole kits made from blends of dried chiles, which are unique to Tierra. Crunchy dill pickles made with Tierra-grown picking cucumbers sit on the counter (bring your own mason jars). “We will have pickles until November. We also have Bloody Mary mix with excellent tomato juice and spicy pickle juice. We have riots in San Francisco (at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market) over that,” Lee said. Those are some of the many products made in Tierra’s commercial kitchen, which is why you’ve hit the jackpot if you want to buy gifts for the holidays. You could package heirloom dried beans with some salsa and mole “kits” and throw in some vinegar-based hot sauce. The smoked onions or “vegie bacon,” as it’s called, are wildly popular. There are chile jams — rojo, verde, strawberry-chipotle, to name a few, flavored salts and frozen soup bases. Dominique Ridley makes it happen in Tierra’s commercial kitchen, and Lee smokes the onions, chiles and, at times, tomatoes. If all this food is starting to make you hungry, you can sample the jams and fresh popcorn. Tierra processes dried corn that they grow for popcorn and cornmeal. The stand even sells wool from Tierra’s flock of Shetland sheep, tended by Lee, who often uses lichen, onion and shallot skins to dye the yarn beautiful colors. Tierra produces more than 20 varieties of beans. “This place has an amazing and wonderful selection. It’s really wonderful being able to buy dried beans from a local source. You can buy zucchini anywhere but you can’t buy some of the things here that are sourced locally. I like trying all the different beans,” said Pam Davis of West Santa Rosa. “This time I got some red beans and some black beans. I’m going to make a chili. And I am going to put this in my homemade plum jam,” she said, holding a bag of chipotle dried chiles.” Evie took me to the field to see where the produce is grown. We passed a cardoon plant bursting with stunning purple flowers before getting to rows of sunflowers, where beans curled around the flower stalks. Further down, we saw four-foot and six-
A sampling of dried beans at Tierra Vegetables where you can find more than 20 varieties.
foot-high cornstalks, deep purple eggplants hanging under dark green leaves with purple flowers, rows of shimmering red strawberries and white onions peeking out of the dark earth. “We have red potatoes, we have russet potatoes. We have a potato this year called the Bodega Red that the Slow Food people saved. They have been working on it and they just let us start buying them this year,” Evie said. Although she doesn’t walk the farm as much as she used to, Evie encourages customers to do so. “It’s very peaceful. We like people walking out in the field, especially children … We like people to know where their food comes from, and I think people get a greater appreciation of where their food comes from when they come out here. “And take more than one walk,” encouraged Evie. “People should take many walks through the field because it is always changing, like the food at the farm stand. We have such a huge variety of stuff. I am in awe of the farmers knowing when to plant.”
n
WALKER APPLES
10955 Upp Rd, Graton (707) 823-4310 Hours: 9 a.m.-5 p.m. daily (Farm stand is open for the season until the sign is covered) n
HALE’S APPLE FARM
1526 Gravenstein Hwy N Sebastopol (707) 823-4613 Hours: 9 a.m.- 5 p.m. daily n
TIERRA VEGETABLES
651 Airport Blvd., Santa Rosa (between 101 & Fulton Rd.) (707) 544-6141 Open rain and shine. TuesdayFriday 10 a.m.-6 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m.-5 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m.-4 p.m. Discoveries 53
Farmers Markets
(Area codes 707)
Redwood Empire Farmers Market Santa Rosa Veterans Memorial Building East Parking Lot, 1351 Maple Ave.; 8:30 a.m. to noon year ‘round; 237-5340; redwoodempirefarmersmarkets.com.
Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Rd., 8:30 a.m. to noon, year ‘round; 522-8629; thesantarosafarmersmarket.com.
Thursday Guerneville Evening Farmers Market First Street at Guerneville Town Plaza; 3 to 7 p.m., June through September; 869-3865.
Sunday Sebastopol Certified Farmers Market Downtown Plaza, McKinley St. at Petaluma Ave.; 10 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., year-round; 522-9305.
Windsor Certified Farmers Market Windsor Town Green, Market St.; 10 a.m. to 1 p.m., April through December; 838-1320; windsorfarmersmarket.com.
Tuesday Forestville Farmers Market Russian River Vineyards, 5700 Gravenstein Hwy North; 3 to 7 p.m., year-round; 887-3344; russianrivervineyards.com.
Wednesday Healdsburg Evening Farmers Market Purity/Cerri parking lot on North Street between Grove and Foss streets; 3:30 to 6 p.m.; June through October; 431-1956; healdsburgfarmersmarket.org.
54 Fall 2013
Saturday Healdsburg Certified Farmers Market North Street, one block west of the Plaza, Healdsburg; 9 a.m. to noon, May through November; 431-1956; healdsburgfarmersmarket.org.
Petaluma Farmers Market Walnut Park, Petaluma Blvd. South and D St.; 2 to 5 p.m., May through October; 762-0344.
Oakmont Farmers Market Oakmont at White Oak Dr., Santa Rosa; 9 a.m. to noon year ’round; 538-7023.
Redwood Empire Farmers Market Santa Rosa Veteran’s Building East Parking Lot, 1351 Maple Ave.; 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. year ’round; 237-5340; redwoodempirefarmersmarkets.com.
Santa Rosa Original Certified Farmers Market Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Rd., 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m., year ‘round; 522-8629; thesantarosafarmersmarket.com.
Advertiser Index A Simple Touch Spa ..........................................................50 Antique Society..................................................................10 Applewood Inn & Spa ......................................................27 Art Galleries ........................................................................17 Erickson Fine Art Hammerfriar Hand Fan Museum Healdsburg Center for the Arts Nichibei Potters Sebastopol Gallery Big John’s Market ..............................................................56 Boat House Restaurant ....................................................41 Costeaux Bakery ...............................................................47 Cricklewood Restaurant ..................................................15 Duncans Mills......................................................................45 Antiquarian Cape Fear Christopher Queen Gallery Jim & Willie’s Antiques Mr. Trombley’s Tea Pig Alley Sophie’s Cellars Twice as Nice Weavers & Dreamers Garcia River Casino ...........................................................13 Garrett’s Hardware/The Gift Horse ..............................23 Geyserville............................................................................28 Bosworth and Sons Geyserville Inn North County Properties Graton Gallery ...................................................................19 Gualala...................................................................................12 Gualala Arts Center Sea Ranch Lodge Timber Cove Inn Hammerfriar Gallery & Framing ...................................19 Inn at the Tides ..................................................................41 K & L Bistro ...........................................................................21 Korbel ....................................................................................29 Lake Sonoma Resort........................................................... 9 Leff Construction ................................................................. 4 Martorana Family Winery ...............................................23 Merriam Vineyards ............................................................33 Northwood Golf ................................................................10 Purls of Joy ............................................................................. 8 Ram’s Head Realty ............................................................13 Rodney Strong Winery ...................................................... 4 Russian River Valley Winegrowers ............................. 2-3 ACORN Winery/Alegria Vineyards Bucher Vineyard DeLoach Vineyards Dutton-Goldfield Winery Moshin Vineyards RMH Wines Robert Rue Vineyard & Winery Russian Hill Estate Russian River Vineyards Thomas George Estates Saint Dizier Home Furnishings .....................................33 Sebastopol Area ................................................................14 Mom’s Apple Pie Hook & Ladder @ Main Stage West Thai Pot Sebastopol Center for the Arts .....................................15 Silk Moon ..............................................................................11 Sushi Tozai/Eight ...............................................................11 Thankfully There’s Healdsburg .....................................37 B. Real Dragonfly Tea Framing Arts Pizzando Tallulah Zizi The Wine Emporium .........................................................21 Trione Winery ......................................................................47 Villagio Dental ..................................................................... 8 Wine Road of North Sonoma County.........................29 Windsor Farmers Market................................................... 9 Windsor Town Green ........................................................51 Atrellis Freeloader Boutique Images Kaleidoscope Toys My Chic Boutique Windsor Cutlery
Ma rk W est Spr ings Rd
Armstrong Woods Rd .
Cazadero Hwy.
Sonoma County
Discoveries 55
New Season New Tastes Always Fresh Finest service deli, prepared meals to go, choice quality meats, fresh produce and gourmet grocery department plus an expansive selection of local wines & cheeses.
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1345 Healdsburg Avenue at Dry Creek Road in Healdsburg (707) 433-7151 | www.bigjohnsmarket.com Open Monday through Saturday 7am-9pm and Sunday 7am-8pm