sonoma
DISCOVERIES FOR THOSE WHO LIVE AND PLAY IN SONOMA COUNTY | SINCE 1996
Winemaking On the Edge
Tasting Rooms
Restaurant Makeovers Winter Hikes
Volume 17, Issue 2 Winter 2013 $4.95
The SONOMA COAST Issue
Editor’s LETTER
Rena Jordan
With this winter issue of Sonoma Discoveries, our writers bring you stories from the
Full service bakery and café widely acclaimed for its rustic breads, irresistible desserts, and simply elegant wedding cakes. Serving breakfast & lunch daily from 7 am
Rena Jordan 2 • winter 2013
costeaux.com 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg 707.433.1913
“true” Sonoma Coast. This area close to the sea is a place that writer Barry Dugan describes as “a landscape unlike any other,” where winegrowers work in unison with the elements and embrace a long growing season to produce some of the world’s finest cool weather Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. Those who farm here are a rugged lot with elegant taste, and we found them in West County’s rolling fog-covered hills and high on Jenner’s steep ridges, places that Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez reports are literally the “very edge of where winegrapes can be grown.” Many coastal wineries and vineyards are remote and out-of-reach – and they like it that way. We discovered some with very different tasting room experiences. MaryColleen Tinney visited three terroir-driven wineries, and she gives you an insider’s view about what you’ll discover there. This issue includes an illustrated guide to winter hiking, a day trip where you can ‘follow the birds’ in the funky and delightful towns of Bodega and Bodega Bay, and a list of five ‘secrets’ where you can feel mystical, harvest mussels and more. And to satisfy hearty winter appetites, Abby Bard reveals what’s cooking at two popular Sebastopol restaurants. We had fun producing this issue. Writers went west and photographer Sarah Bradbury followed, capturing crashing waves, roads that seemed to drop into space, towering redwood trees and vineyards on the edge of the world. We hope you like the stories, the photographs, and the fresh design changes we’re making, too. Heading into the holidays and New Year, our calendar offers many ways to enrich your days. I’m looking forward to the production of “The Little Prince” (“Le Petit Prince”), in which the fox reveals a very simple secret: “It is only with the heart that one can see rightly; what is essential is invisible to the eye." At Sonoma Discoveries, we put our hearts into telling you stories about real people. This winter, head to the coast! Explore, discover and maybe get a little wild. Let us know about your favorite places so we can pass them on. Until then, may all of your discoveries be memorable.
Patricia M. Roth, Editor
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Contents Winter 2013 features 22 | 26 | 34 | 38 | 46 | 52 |
The Golden Sonoma Coast By Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez
Wines from the Wild West Coast of Sonoma By Barry Dugan
The Tasting Room Experience By Mary-Colleen Tinney
Two Established Restaurants Get Makeovers By Abby Bard
Gateways to one of Bodega Bay’s Least Known Beaches By Nathan Wright Follow the Birds By Jess Poshepny
departments 2 4 5 6 8 14
| Editor’s Letter | Contributors
| Absolute Musts: Six hot picks for winter | Holiday Happenings
| Do Dates An illustrated event calendar, December through February | Art & About Events and exhibits at art galleries and arts centers
54 | 55 |
Advertiser’s Index Regional Map
Cover: Bodega Head, looking north. Inset: Detail, K&L Bistro; Redwoods lining Fitzgerald Lane near Occidental; Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery tasting room. Photographs by Sarah Bradbury
sonoma discoveries
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Geyserville
Contributors
Rollie Atkinson has been in journalism for 37 years, working at reporter and editor desks in both daily and community weekly newsrooms on both coasts. He has been publisher of Sonoma West Publishers since 1995 and writes weekly news commentaries and occasional features about music, out door pursuits and interesting people. He currently serves as a volunteer board member of the Healdsburg Jazz festival. Abby Bard is a weaver who sells her handwoven clothing from her studio in Sebastopol and is a member of ARTrails. She has a passion for growing food in an urban landscape and writes about it and other subjects for Sonoma West magazines.
Barry Dugan is a freelance writer, editor and public outreach consultant in the field of water reuse and conservation. He was formerly the editor of Sonoma West Times & News, The Healdsburg Tribune and TheWindsor Times.
Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez is a Sonoma County native and journalist for Sonoma West Times & News. She holds a BA in Communications from Sonoma State University and has a background in graphic design, public relations, creative writing and dance.
Jess Poshepny is Direct Sales and Marketing Manager for Trione Vineyards & Winery in Geyserville. The Sonoma native has 12 years of experience in the wine business and is president of the Geyserville Chamber of Commerce. She loves to eat, drink and play local. Mary-Colleen Tinney is a Sonoma County native with more than 13 years of experience as a wine journalist. After nearly nine years at Wine Business Monthly magazine, she spent a year exploring and working in the wine regions of New Zealand. Since her return, she has worked in wine marketing and hospitality positions while continuing her wine journalism career on a freelance basis. Nathan Wright works in the wine industry and is a freelance writer and former reporter for The Healdsburg Tribune and The Windsor Times. A native of Sebastopol, he’s long enjoyed exploring Sonoma County, introducing the interesting people he meets and places he’s seen to his readers.
Staff
Associate Publisher & Managing Editor: Sarah Bradbury | Editor: Patricia M. Roth Copy Editor: Pam Whigham | Senior Designer: Stephanie O’Hearn Photography Editor: Sarah Bradbury Contributors: Rollie Atkinson | Abby Bard | Barry Dugan Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez | Jess Poshepny | Mary-Colleen Tinney | Nathan Wright Email us: sarah@sonomadiscoveries.com | patti@sonomadiscoveries.com Publisher: Rollie Atkinson | Advertising Director: Cherie Kelsay
Not N ot jjust ust a p place lace ttoo llive…It’s ive…It’s a llifestyle ifestyle
Email us with advertising placement inquiries: paulawise@hbgtrib.com Advertising Sales: Sara Braun | Kyle Domenichelli | Cherie Kelsay Steve Pedersen | Paula Wise Production Manager: Ruby Reed | Graphic Designer: Jim Schaefer Website Coordinator: Eileen Mateo | Bookkeeper: Penny Chambers Discoveries Magazine Advertising and Editorial Offices P.O. Box 518, Healdsburg, CA 95448, Phone: 707-838-9211 sonomawest.com <http://sonomawest.com> sonomadiscoveries.com <http://sonomadiscoveries.com>
an old-fashioned store, rich in nostalgia and charm, yet meeting the needs of today’s townfolks and visitors. Mens Western apparel & work clothes Saddles and tack • Hardware • antiques
4 • winter 2013
Sonoma Discoveries magazine, Vol XVII, #2, is published quarterly by Sonoma West Publishers, Inc. Sonoma Discoveries is published quarterly by Sonoma West Publishers. It is distributed at more than 220 locations throughout Sonoma County as a newspaper insert, on the Web, and to visitors’ centers, Chambers of Commerce, tasting rooms, shops, restaurants, inns, hotels and other venues. Reprints in publications outside our distribution area are encouraged, but prior written permission is required. © Copyright 2013 Sonoma West Publishers, Inc. All rights reserved.
Sonoma Discoveries is an advertising supplement to the Nov. 28, 2013 issue of Sonoma West Times & News, The Windsor Times, The Healdsburg Tribune and Cloverdale Reveille. This magazine uses zero VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) UV inks. VOCs create smog. Because it’s not printed using conventional Heatset, this publication has substantially reduced its carbon footprint. Printed by Barlow Printing, Cotati, California.
Absolute Musts Photo: Irene Young
Theater Festivals Concerts Wine Tastings
Habib Koité and Bamada
Alasdair Fraser and Natalie Haas
Alasdair Fraser and Natalie Haas
January 31
Descended from a line of Khassonké griots (traditional African troubadors), Habib Koité is well-versed in the distinct regional variations of music that exist across his Mali homeland. What is fascinating is how he weaves them all together.
December 7
He is a world-renowned fiddler from a small town in Scotland and she is a Julliard cello prodigy from California. Traditional music bridges the backgrounds of this synchronistic duo and magic happens when they play together.
Santa Rosa Symphony
Habib Koité
Cloverdale Citrus Fair February 14 - 17
December 7 - 9
Conductor Bruno Ferrandis and the Symphony have chosen a wide-ranging holiday program, “Contemplation of Peace and War,” that moves from Leopold Mozart’s “The Toy Symphony” to Haydn’s “Mass in the Time of War.”
When the Fair first started in 1892, Cloverdale was a burgeoning area for citrus in California. It continues to be the earliest fair of the year. Among all the many attractions are the elaborate, three-dimensional fruit exhibits.
January 18 - 19
February 15
Chinese New Year Celebration
Winter Wineland
The vineyards are in their winter dormancy, but the Wine Road landscape is beautiful in every season. Visit your favorite wineries and explore some new ones to taste, socialize and learn— and catch special wine deals too good to pass up.
Didn’t get enough razzle-dazzle on New Year’s Eve? Redwood Empire Chinese Association invites you to celebrate again during the Chinese New Year. Trade in your party hats for food, traditional dances and much more. Chinese New Year
More details for the above can be found in Do Dates. sonoma discoveries
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HOLIDAY HAPPENINGS (Area codes 707 unless noted)
NOW - DECEMBER 31
HOLIDAY GIFT GALLERY
Artists offer functional, wearable, holiday themed and gift-appropriate work in ceramic, glass, metal, jewelry, textiles and wood. Open daily, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Dec. 14 (Second Saturday Artwalk) open until 8 p.m. Healdsburg Center for the Arts, 130 Plaza St., Healdsburg; 431-1970; healdsburgcenterforthearts.com.
NOW - JANUARY 5
“CHRISTMAS ON THE RANCH”TOY EXHIBIT
The Healdsburg Museum & Historical Society presents a special display of antique agricultural and handmade toys and games sourced from the Museum collection and the community. This year’s holiday exhibit runs along with the continuing “Farm to Table” agricultural exhibit. Free admission. Open Wednesday through Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. 221 Matheson St., Healdsburg; 431-3325; healdsburgmuseum.org.
DECEMBER 5
SEBASTOPOL HOLIDAY TREE LIGHTING
Sebastopol Area Chamber of Commerce invites you to a holiday event in the Town Plaza. Enjoy complimentary hot beverages and treats, children’s crafts, live entertainment, Sutter Care at Home's "Lights of Life" candlelight ceremony, and a visit from Santa. Free. 5 to 8 p.m., rain or shine; tree lighting approx. 6:30 p.m. Petaluma Ave. N. at McKinley St., Sebastopol; 823-3032; sebastopol.org.
WINDSOR HOLIDAY CELEBRATION
Celebrate the opening of the holiday season under the glow of lamplights with carolers and carriage rides around the Town Green. Enjoy the tree lighting with Mr. and Mrs. Claus, Elves Craft Workshop for kids, photos with Santa, and rides on the Polar Express Train. Free to attend; photos and rides extra. 5 to 8 p.m. Windsor Town Green, 107 McClelland Dr., Windsor; 838-1260; ci.windsor.ca.us.
DECEMBER 5 - 31
CHARLIE BROWN CHRISTMAS TREE GROVE
Old Downtown Windsor Merchants Association brings a white Christmas to the Town Green, where a magical display of Christmas trees twinkles through a snowfall twice each evening at 5:30 and 7:30 p.m. Free admission.Windsor Town Green; 838-5382; olddowntownwindsor.com.
DECEMBER 6
HOLIDAY SING-A-LONG
Friday Night Live at the Sebastopol Community Cultural Center salutes the spirit of the season. Raise your voice in concert with the Love Choir and community bands, and enjoy Lagunitas ales, fine wines and food. $10 adults, $5 under age 18; refreshments available for purchase. Doors open at 6:30 p.m., music begins at 7. Sebastopol Community Cultural Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol; 823-1511; seb.org.
DECEMBER 7
GUERNEVILLE PARADE OF LIGHTS
This festive spectacle will chase away the dark of winter. Feel the holiday cheer as 100 creative entries parade by—floats, marching bands, horses, antique cars, 6 • winter 2013
trucks and more—all lit up with Christmas lights. Hot drinks and snacks available. Free to attend. 7 p.m. Main St., Guerneville; 869-9000; russianriver.com.
DECEMBER 7, 14 & 21
BREAKFAST WITH SANTA
Bring your camera and capture young ones spending “knee time” with the Big Guy at Healdsburg’s Costeaux French Bakery. Order breakfast (chocolate chip pancakes anyone?), hear live holiday music, and enjoy a phenomenally large display of whimsical nutcrackers in an enchanted holiday setting. 9 to 11 a.m. No reservations; first come, first served. 417 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 433-1913; costeaux.com.
DECEMBER 7 - 8
BURBANK HOLIDAY OPEN HOUSE
Experience a Victorian-era holiday season at the Luther Burbank Home & Gardens. See the horticulturist’s home decorated in the traditional style of his time. See the latest exhibit and shop for unique gift items in the Carriage House Museum and Gift Shop. $2 admission for ages 12 and up. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Free parking at 1st and D streets. Corner of Santa Rosa and Sonoma avenues, Santa Rosa; 524-5445; lutherburbank.org.
OCCIDENTAL HOLIDAY CRAFTS FAIRE
Juried arts and handmade goods, entertainment, delicious food, activities for kids, and chances to win great gifts make attending this annual Occidental event a delight. More than 35 artists and craftspeople participate. Free to attend; proceeds benefit community programs. 10 a.m. to 5p.m., ends at 4 p.m. on Sunday. Occidental Community Center, 3920 Bohemian Hwy., Occidental; 874-9407; occcraft@sonic.net.
DECEMBER 8
ZEN FEST HOLIDAY SALE
Delectable treats abound for every taste at this annual benefit for Graton’s Stone Creek Zen Center. Traditional homegrown recipes as well as distinctive art and handcrafts make wonderful gifts. Also featured: Japanese lunches, a treasure trove of rummage, silent auction, raffle and much more. Free to attend. 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. at Masonic Center, 373 North Main St., Sebastopol; 829-1129; stonecreekzencenter.org.
DECEMBER 14
20TH ANNUAL SING-ALONG MESSIAH
Conductor John Maas leads local instrumentalists, soloists and singers of all vocal abilities. Sponsored by Sebastopol Center for the Arts and the Sebastopol United Methodist Church. $6 per person, $15 for family of four. 3 p.m. Optional rehearsal with the conductor Dec. 8, 4 p.m. at Sebastopol Center for the Arts, 282 S. High St., Sebastopol. United Methodist Church, 500 No. Main St., Sebastopol; 829-4797.
DECEMBER 14 - 15
GODDESS CRAFTS FAIRE
Come to the 19th annual Faire, celebrating community and the coming of winter through women’s art, music and dance. Bonus: find all kinds of handmade gifts made by local and regional women. $5 to $13 suggested donation; kids free. 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sebastopol Community Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol; 823-1511; goddesscraftsfaire.com.
GINGERBREAD DOGHOUSE CLASSES
Children grades 1 through 6 can assemble and decorate Snoopy’s gingerbread doghouse complete with a marshmallow Snoopy on top, plus make holiday cards and ornaments. $25 Museum members, $32 non-members. Advance reservations required, register online or call 284-1263. Morning and afternoon classes both days held at Schulz Museum Education Annex, 1835 Steele Ln., Santa Rosa; 579-4452; schulzmuseum.org.
HOLIDAY HOME TOUR & ARTISAN BOUTIQUE
Third annual tour and boutique benefits Jacob’s Fund, a scholarship fund at Pleasant Hill Christian School. On Saturday only, visit six distinctive homes, each with its own style and holiday spirit. The school also holds its Artisan Boutique both Sat. and Sun. Tour: $35 adults, $10 youth; admission to boutique is free. See website to buy tickets, find hours and other details. 1782 Pleasant Hill Rd., Sebastopol; 829-1729; phcs.org.
DECEMBER 15
SANTA AT THE MUSEUM
Despite a hectic holiday schedule, Santa manages to squeeze in a visit to the Healdsburg Museum & Historical Society. He’ll be available to visit with everyone and take gift requests. Free admission. 1 p.m. to 4 p. m. 221 Matheson St., Healdsburg; 431-3325; healdsburgmuseum.org.
DECEMBER 23
OCCIDENTAL CHRISTMAS CAROLS
It’s one of Occidental’s great holiday traditions: the Gonnella family holds a Christmas caroling party for its customers at the historic Union Hotel Restaurant in the Bocce Ballroom on the last Monday night before Christmas. Management supplies hot spiced cider and bakes plenty of cookies for the enthusiastic carolers. 7 p.m. 3731 Main St., Occidental; 874-3555; unionhoteloccidental.com.
DECEMBER 21
SANTA FLY-IN AT PACIFIC COAST AIR MUSEUM
Allowing the reindeer to rest up at the North Pole for the big night, Santa Claus arrives for a visit in Sonoma County via REACH Helicopter. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; call or see website for admission information and approximate arrival time. One Air Museum Way, Santa Rosa; 575-7900; pacificcoastairmuseum.org.
DECEMBER 24
FESTIVAL OF NINE LESSONS
“The Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols” is a Christmas Eve celebration that originated in 1919 at King’s College Chapel at Cambridge University in England. Singing and music accompany both clerical and lay readings. Admission is free. Candlelit procession begins at 5 p.m. Gualala Arts Center; 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
Duncans Mills
DECEMBER 31
HAPPY NEW YEAR, CHARLIE BROWN!
All ages can celebrate the New Year at the Charles M. Schulz Museum. The party atmosphere will include hands-on crafts for kids, balloon drops and root beer toasts at noon and 3 p.m. Take in the current exhibits while you’re there. Call or see website for admission prices. Museum opens at 10 a.m. 2301 Hardies Ln., Santa Rosa; 579-4452; schulzmuseum.org.
HOLIDAY PRODUCTIONS
A CHRISTMAS CAROL DECEMBER 6 - 15
Audiences never tire of the guided Christmas Eve journey through time that transforms Ebenezer Scrooge. $18 general admission; tickets available at the website or in person at Mail Center, Inc., 207 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale. Fri. and Sat. at 8 p.m., Sun. matinees at 2 p.m. Cloverdale Performing Arts Center, 209 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale; 8942214; cloverdaleperformingarts.com.
Christopher Queen
Galleries
'TWAS THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS DECEMBER 7 - 8
Teresa Lubarsky's Healdsburg Ballet holds its 19th annual production of this original adaptation that features ballet, jazz and hip-hop performed to classical and contemporary music. $18 general, $13 seniors and children under 8. Tickets available online at brownpapertickets.com or at the door. Sat. at 7 p.m., Sun. matinee at 2 p.m. Raven Performing Arts Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 431-7617; healdsburgballet.com.
Early California & Contemporary Art
WINNIE THE POOH CHRISTMAS TAIL DECEMBER 14, 15, 21 - 23
H-TownYouthTheater performs a charming holiday production featuring the dramatic talents of local youth who take us on an adventure in the 100 Acre Wood at Christmastime. $10 general admission. Performances at 11 a.m. and 2 p.m. each day. Raven Performing ArtsTheater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 433-6335; raventheater.org; 360-8641; htownyt.com.
707-865-1318 Daily except Tuesdays
Breakfast • Lunch • Dinner Brunch on Holidays & Weekends
Antiques of all kind
THE NUTCRACKER DECEMBER 20 – 22
A tradition since 1992, the Sebastopol Ballet School presents Tchaikovsky’s full-length ballet. Matinees feature a pre-show Sugar Plum Party with dancers in costume and sweets. $22 reserved, $17 general, $12 children under 12 and seniors over 65. Fri. at 7 p.m., Sat. at 2 and 7 p.m., Sun. at 2 p.m. Analy High School Theater, 6950 Analy Ave., Sebastopol. For tickets, call 824-8006, visit sebastopolballet.com or purchase online at brownpapertickets.com. [See also On Stage, Page 17, for more performing arts.]
Fresh Flowers to Go
In the log cabin on B Street Patio Seating Available
LOCATED IN DELIGHTFUL DUNCANS MILLS
707 865-9246 Hours: Mon, Wed, Fri 10am to 8:30pm; Tue 10am to 3pm, Sat, Sun 9am to 8:30pm
707-865-9897 Weddings a specialty Custom orders gladly accepeted
sonoma discoveries
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california
lighting primitives
jewelry
country
Antique Society
post modern
kitchen tools
arts & crafts
architectural
toys & dolls
glass
furniture fruit labels garden antiques
www.antiquesociety.com
DoDates Calendar December
DECEMBER 6
(Area codes 707 unless noted)
WINEMAKER DINNER: GLORIA FERRER
The Bay View Restaurant at The Inn at the Tides in Bodega Bay welcomes winemaker Bob Iantosca for a five-course menu paired with five distinctive Gloria Ferrer wines. $99 plus tax and gratuity; reservations a must. Discounted room rates available for dinner guests. No-host reception starts at 6:30 p.m., dinner at 7. Inn at the Tides, 800 Coast Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay; 875-2751; innatthetides.com.
DECEMBER 6 - 15
OCCIDENTAL COMMUNITY CHOIR
For 35 years, this choir has annually shared its proprietary mix of original, traditional, inspirational and humorous music. Currently directed by Andy Del Monte, each year the locally famous community choir devises a themed program. Full schedule and details TBA on the website. 874-8622; occidentalchoir.org.
DECEMBER 7
ALASDAIR FRASER AND NATALIE HAAS
Daniel Gewertz of the Boston Herald says, “The musical chemistry between Scottish fiddle legend Alasdair Fraser and young cello ace Natalie Haas is a rare, felicitous thing.” Come see this duo perform their exciting brand of traditional music. $27 premium seating, $22 advance general admission, $25 at the door. Doors open at 7:15 p.m., music begins at 8. Sebastopol Community Cultural Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol; 823-1511; seb.org.
HOLIDAY CONCERT FOR THE COAST
The Ernest Bloch Bell Ringers present their annual concert. Songs are performed on four-and-a-half octaves of beautiful handbells and chimes. Note: Santa Claus will be attending, handing out candy canes. $10 in advance, $15 day of concert.Youth17 and under free with adult. 3 p.m. Gualala Arts Center; 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
DECEMBER 11 - 12 & 18 - 19
HEALDSBURG STROLLING DINE AROUND
This popular progressive feast is in its fifth year. Choose four out of 20 fine Healdsburg restaurants for four delicious dinner courses (appetizer, first course, main dish and dessert). Restaurants are close to the downtown plaza for easy strolling between courses. $89, tax and gratuity included; advance reservations required. Email dinearound@healdsburg.com or call Lori Moore at 479-7488 for more info, or see the brochure and participating restaurants at healdsburg.com.
DECEMBER 13
WILLIE NELSON & FAMILY
The singer-songwriter’s other avocations of poet, author, actor and activist inform his iconic country-western compositions. The living legend whose career has spanned six decades is stepping off the tour bus in Sonoma County and making this concert a family affair. $46, $66 and $86. 8 p.m. Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Rd., Santa Rosa; 546-3600; wellsfargocenterarts.com.
DECEMBER 14
LAGUNA CENTER OPEN HOUSE
The Laguna Foundation cordially invites you to visit the Laguna Environmental Center. Take a guided tour to learn about the natural and cultural history of the Laguna de Santa Rosa and historic Stone Farm, enjoy beautiful views and bird watch from the observation deck, and browse the gift shop and an art exhibit in Great Blue Heron Hall. Bring a picnic, if you wish. Free admission. 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Laguna Environmental Center, 900 Sanford Rd., Santa Rosa; 5279277; lagunafoundation.org.
DECEMBER 7 - 9
SANTA ROSA SYMPHONY
Bruno Ferrandis conducts the Symphony, Santa Rosa Symphony Honor Choir and featured vocalists in a program called “Contemplation of Peace and War” with music from Mozart, Bernstein and Haydn.Ticket prices TBA. Sat. 2 p.m. (open rehearsal matinee) and 8 p.m., Sun. 3 p.m., Mon. 8 p.m. Weill Concert Hall, Green Music Center, 1801 East Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park; 5468742; santarosasymphony.com.
DECEMBER 8
HEALDSBURG CHORUS CONCERT
Director Betty Zukov, accompanist Susan Nelson and members of the chorus perform “Sleigh Bells Ring.” $15 in advance, $18 at the door; pre-sale tickets available at Copperfield’s Book Store in Healdsburg. 3 p.m. Glaser Center, 547 Mendocino Ave., Santa Rosa; 8384557; healdsburgchorus.com.
HOT CLUB OF S.F.
Redwood Arts Council’s holiday concert, “Hot Club Cool Yule” is a swinging gypsy jazz fest sizzling with seasonal flair. $30 general admission, $10 full-time students w/ID. 8 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-1124; redwoodarts.org. 8 • winter 2013
Santa Rosa Symphony Honor Choir.
KAYAKING AND HIKING THE LAGUNA
This presentation with David Bannister follows the Laguna Foundation’s open house. Learn how to get up close and personal with the natural wonders of the Laguna de Santa Rosa. $10 at the door. 3 to 4:30 p.m. Laguna Environmental Center, 900 Sanford Rd., Santa Rosa; 527-9277 x103; lagunafoundation.org.
SECOND SATURDAY HEALDSBURG ARTWALK
Stroll the last Healdsburg ArtWalk of the year and visit up to 18 galleries that open their doors for the evening. Enjoy art, photography, sculpture, music, food and wine as you view some of the finest collections in the North Bay region. 5 to 8 p.m. Find a map and more information at healdsburg.com.
uisine C s u io c li e D , Creative Paired with Wines y t n u o C t s e Premier W
HEALDSBURG ROTARY CRAB FEED
It’s time for seasonal Dungeness crab! Support Healdsburg community programs, Rotary Scholarship Fund and international charity work by enjoying crab, pasta, salad, bread, dessert and wine. There are also silent and live auctions to peruse and bid. $60 buffet dinner; $80 reserved dining with table service. Silent auction and bar open at 5 p.m., buffet dinner starts at 6:45, table service at 7:15. Villa Chanticleer, 1248 No. Fitch Mountain Rd., Healdsburg; healdsburgrotary.org.
DECEMBER 14 - 15
California Fusion Japanese 9 caw.com
6 SushiTozai.com
A LIVE RADIO PLAY
Gualala Arts Reader’s Theater presents “Godunov’s Magical Christmas Egg,” an old-fashioned, live performance by playwright Dennis Carter. A beleaguered department store employee is dealing with extra duty on Christmas Eve (and a scheduled blind date) plus a missing Fabergé egg. $10 in advance, $15 day of concert. Youth 17 and under free with adult. Sat. at 7 p.m., Sunday matinee at 2 p.m. Gualala Arts Center; 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
DECEMBER 15
HEALDSBURG VICTORIAN INN TOUR
Take a self-guided walking tour of vintage Healdsburg inns. Visit parlors and drawing rooms bedecked with holiday trimmings, learn about the history of each inn and enjoy light refreshments. Participating inns in 2012 included Bella Luna Inn, Camellia Inn, Haydon Street Inn, Irish Rose Inn, Piper Street Inn and Raford Inn. Donation of a non-perishable food item or $5 requested to benefit Healdsburg Food Pantry. 2 to 4 p.m. For more information, call 4338182 or visit healdsburg.com.
A VERY MERRY HOLIDAY POPS
An uplifting and multicultural presentation by Santa Rosa Symphony and Santa Rosa Symphonic Chorus. The holiday tunes range from traditional to swing to rock, and an audience sing-along is included. $32 to $75 depending on seating choice. 3 p.m. Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Rd., Santa Rosa; 546-3600; santarosasymphony.com; wellsfargocenterarts.com.
DECEMBER 15 - 16
HEALDSBURG CHORUS CONCERTS
Director Betty Zukov, accompanist Susan Nelson and members of the chorus continue their annual holiday concert series, “Sleigh Bells Ring.” $15 in advance, $18 at the door; pre-sale tickets available at Copperfield’s Book Store in Healdsburg. 3 p.m. Sunday, 7 p.m. Monday. Healdsburg Community Church, 1100 University St., Healdsburg; 838-4557; healdsburgchorus.com.
Just west of Main St. on Healdsburg Ave., Hwy 116, Sebastopol
The B The Bay ay View View Restaur ant & B ar Restaurant Bar Authentic A uthentic IItalian talian Cuisine Cuisine and SSonoma onoma C County ountty FFav Favorites avorites Open for for Dinner Dinne — SSeasonal easonal Hours Bayy V View Ba iew Bar & LLounge ounge Spectacular Views Spec tacular Sunset V iews Outdoor Patio FFireside ireside LLounge ounge and O utdoor P atio Dinners”” ffea featured monthly ““Winemaker Winemaker Dinners eatured mon thly
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DoDates Calendar January
JANUARY 11
LAGUNA CENTER OPEN HOUSE
The Laguna Foundation cordially invites you to visit the Laguna Environmental Center. Learn about the natural and cultural history of the Laguna de Santa Rosa and historic Stone Farm by taking a guided tour. Artist Ane Carla Rovetta demonstrates tule duck weaving. Free admission. 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Laguna Environmental Center, 900 Sanford Rd., Santa Rosa; 527-9277 x110 (Anita); lagunafoundation.org.
LAGUNA KEEPERS WORK DAY
Yarns • Books • Notions Classes & Gifts Open every day (Thursdays till 8pm) 429 Healdsburg Ave. Healdsburg (707) 433-JOYS www.purlsofjoy.com
JANUARY 18
WINTERNATIONALS PINEWOOD DERBY
Youth and the young at heart design and build custom cars to race on Gualala Arts’ four-lane aluminum track, complete with an electronic timing system that displays immediate finishing order and scale miles per hour. Various age classifications (including Vintage) compete. Speed awards presented as well as for Most Artistic vehicle. 1 to 4 p.m. $5 to enter, free admission to spectate. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
Join in to install native plants and check on the other vegetation flourishing in the Laguna’s landscape. Bring gloves and water; snacks provided. 9 a.m. to noon. For more info, contact Brent at 527-9277 x101. Meet at the Laguna Environmental Center, 900 Sanford Rd., Santa Rosa; lagunafoundation.org.
JANUARY 11 - 13
SANTA ROSA SYMPHONY
Enrique Arturo Diemecke is the guest conductor for the concert, “East/West Musical Dialogue,” which features guest soloist Wu Man playing the popular Chinese instrument, the pipa. See the website for ticket prices. Discovery open rehearsal is Sat. at 2 p.m., other performances Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. 3 p.m., and Mon. 8 p.m. Weill Concert Hall, Green Music Center, 1801 East Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park; 546-8742; santarosasymphony.com.
JANUARY 17
DAVID LINDLEY
For many years he was the featured accompanist for Jackson Browne and leader of his own band, El Rayo-X. The entertaining multi-instrumentalist plays and sings an electro-acoustic blend of American traditions mixed with global influences. $27 premium seating, $22 general seating in advance, $25 at the door. 8 p.m. Sebastopol Community Cultural Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol; 823-1511; seb.org/events.
ROBERT IRVINE
Multiple on-stage cameras allow a close-up view while Robert Irvine (known from TV shows “Dinner: Impossible” and “Restaurant Impossible”) takes on several cooking challenges. Interactive audience participation is folded into the mix. $40, $55 and $100 (This VIP ticket includes a pre-show cooking seminar with Chef Irvine.) 8 p.m. Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Rd., Santa Rosa; 546-3600; wellsfargocenterarts.com. 10 • winter 2013
ZIVIAN-TOMKINS DUO
Winter Wineland.
This San Francisco chamber music ensemble specializes in music performed on period instruments, and the production costs of the duo’s first CD (an allBeethoven recording played on original instruments) was funded by winning an international competition. $30 general admission, $10 full-time students with ID. 8 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-9392; 874-1124; redwoodarts.org.
JANUARY 18 - 19
22ND ANNUAL WINTER WINELAND
Create a winter weekend tasting adventure along the Russian River Wine Road. Choose from more than 100 participating wineries in Alexander, Dry Creek and Russian River valleys, each offering something special:
new releases, library wines, food pairings, tours, music and more. See website for map of wineries, detailed offerings and ticket info. $5 (designated driver) to $55, single day and weekend passes available. 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. 800-723-6336; wineroad.com.
JANUARY 19
MERLING TRIO
The Merling Trio is recognized as one of today’s premier ensembles. A truly international trio, it brings together musicians from Polish, Japanese and Dutch backgrounds playing violin, cello and piano. It has been hailed as a brilliantly distinguished group endowed with remarkable gifts of communication, magnificent precision and an impeccable blend of sound. $25 in advance, $30 at the door, ages 7 through 17 admitted free with adult. 4 p.m. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
JANUARY 25
JUBILEE KLEZMER
Your feet will dance and your heart will sing along to wonderful klezmer and Israeli tunes. Jubilee Klezmer is Sonia Tubridy, accordion; Paul Alexander, clarinet; Phil Lawrence, mandolin; and Mark Peabody, bass. Guest singer Alby Kass supplies the Yiddish vocals. $12 general, $10 seniors and kids under 12. 4 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-9392; occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
JANUARY 26
BODEGA BAY CHOWDER DAY
You’re the judge during this annual chowder tasting event. Roam around Bodega Bay and neighboring areas, sampling a variety of chowder interpretations from restaurants and other participating competitors. Vote for your favorite and support the Bodega Bay Area Chamber of Commerce in the meantime. Information on hours and tickets TBA; find updates online at bodegabayca.org or call 347-9645.
CREATIVE ARTS SERIES
Pianist Jason Chiu is a solo recitalist from Berkeley who gives seemingly effortless performances with balanced measures of delicacy and power, grace and passion. Refer to the website for the program. $15 donation suggested. 3:30 p.m. Resurrection Parish, 303 Stony Point Rd., Santa Rosa; 824-5611; creativeartsseries.com.
JANUARY 31
HABIB KOITÉ AND BAMADA
Malian guitarist Habib Koité is one of Africa’s most popular and recognized musicians. He and his band share the mesmerizing and diverse ethnic musical traditions of their culture. $27 premium seating, $22 general seating in advance, $25 at the door. 8 p.m. Sebastopol Community Cultural Center, 390 Morris St., Sebastopol; 823-1511; seb.org/events. sonoma discoveries
• 11
DoDates Calendar February
FEBRUARY 1
LAGUNA KEEPERS WORK DAY
Check out the spectacular views of the Laguna and help with some continued restoration of this beautiful and rare habitat area. Bring gloves and water; snacks provided. 9 a.m. to noon. Location: Laguna Uplands Preserve; meet at the end of Palm Ave. in Sebastopol just south of Palm Drive Hospital. For more information, contact Brent at 527-9277 x101; lagunafoundation.org.
CRAB & WINE FEST
CHICAGO
Not content to rest on its gold and platinum laurels, what former President Bill Clinton calls one of “the most important bands in music since the dawn of the rock and roll era” is still recording new songs. But never fear, you’ll get to hear some of those old chartbusters, too. $80 and $100. 8 p.m.Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Rd., Santa Rosa; 546-3600; wellsfargocenterarts.com.
Sonoma County Farm Bureau’s annual event benefits local agricultural youth programs and scholarships. Feast on crab and other fine fare, and bid on items in the silent and live auctions. $75 individual tickets, $80/person for table of 10, Captain’s table of 10, $95/person includes wait service, special wines and amenities. Reception starts at 5 p.m. Sonoma County Fair- Grace Pavilion, grounds; 544-5575; sonomafb.org.
FEBRUARY 7
FEBRUARY 11
AN EVENING OF RODGERS & HART
Fred Adler presents “Funny Valentine,” a lively and lovely concert of songs by Richard Rodgers and Lorenz Hart in honor of Valentine's Day. Expect great performances by a diverse and talented group of musicians and singers. $28 in advance, $33 at the door, ages 7 through 17 admitted free. 7 p.m., doors open at 6:30. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
FEBRUARY 8
6TH ANNUAL STEELHEAD FESTIVAL
SUBSCRIBE
4 LOCAL WEEKL LY NEWSP PAPERS TO SERVE YOU U WHEREVER YOU ARE $35* / Seniors 65+ $25 $30 / Clover Cloverdale dale Reveil Reveille le * Print subscript subscriptions ions include onl online ine access 12 • winter 2013
To celebrate the return of steelhead trout to their spawning grounds, Friends of Lake Sonoma host this great event that’s full of fun and education. Among the highlights: a trout pond for kids, art activities, fly rod casting demos and fly tying, archery, animals to visit, and face painting. See the fish ladder at the dam, take a hatchery tour, visit vendors and food trucks, sip beer and wine, and listen to a live band. Admission and activities are free; food and beverages available for purchase. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Lake Sonoma Hatchery and Vistors Center, 3288 Skaggs Springs Road, Geyserville; 431-4533; lakesonoma.org.
PAWS FOR LOVE GALA
A Valentine-themed gala benefitting animals in need features original framed art for sale created by shelter and rescue animals. Also bid on live and silent auction items: award-winning wines, more art, trips, and donations by area businesses and local celebs. All is accompanied by a gourmet gallery of Sonoma County wine and cuisine. $40 advance, $50 at the door. 6 to 10 p.m. Finley Community Center, 2060 West College Ave., Santa Rosa; 209-795-4575 (Ellyn Boone); pawsforlove.info.
FAMILY STORYTELLING EVENING
Ane Carla Rovetta leads a session of storytelling by the campfire at Laguna Environmental Center. Leave the personal electronic gadgets behind and enjoy low-tech communal entertainment. Bring the family and something for the dessert potluck. $10 adults, $5 kids. 6:30 to 8 p.m. For more information, contact Anita at 527-9277 x110. Laguna Environmental Center, 900 Sanford Rd., Santa Rosa; lagunafoundation.org.
Steelhead Festival.
FEBRUARY 14
VALENTINE CABARET
A musical program produced by Andrea Van Dyke, Leah Van Dyke, Blythe Klein and Andrea herself will entertain you with a tribute to romance. Enjoy cabaret seating, complimentary chocolates and champagne; fine wine, beer and other refreshments available for sale. Admission price TBA; reservations advised. Check website for time and other details. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-9392; occidentalcenterforthearts.org.
FEBRUARY 14 - 17
CLOVERDALE CITRUS FAIR
A theme of “Fairly Country” governs this Presidents’ Day Weekend festival. It all starts off with a parade (rain or shine). At the fairgrounds, find gigantic, creative exhibits of citrus fruit, plus farm animals, carnival rides, food demos, a wine competition and tasting, vendors, fine arts and crafts, and cabaret dinner shows. See website for ticket info and full schedule (FYI: discounted admission on Senior Day and Kids Day.) Cloverdale Citrus Fairgrounds, 1 Citrus Dr., Cloverdale; 894-3992; cloverdalecitrusfair.org.
FEBRUARY
15
CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATION
The Chinese calendar turns over to Year 4712, the Year of the Horse. Join the Redwood Empire Chinese Association in celebrating the New Year at their annual fundraiser. A tantalizing dinner is bracketed by martial arts exhibitions, music, colorful dragon and lion dances, as well as raffle prizes and a silent auction. All ages welcome. Ticket and time info on the website. Santa Rosa Veterans Building, 1351 Maple Ave., Santa Rosa; recacenter.org.
GOULD PIANO TRIO
Chamber ensemble Lucy Gould (violin), Alice Neary (cello) and Benjamin Frith (piano) welcome special guest clarinetist Robert Plane in a program featuring Haydn Trio in C and Brahms Clarinet Trio Op. 114, a presentation of the Redwood Arts Council. $30 general admission, $10 full-time students with ID. 8 p.m. Occidental Center for the Arts, 3850 Doris Murphy Ct., Occidental; 874-9392; 874-1124; redwoodarts.org.
FEBRUARY 15 - 17
SANTA ROSA SYMPHONY
This month’s concert is “Songs of the Fjord,” which includes Grieg, Sibelius, and the American premier of a work by 34-year-old Norwegian composer Ørjan Matre called “Resurgence.” See the website for ticket prices. Discovery open rehearsal is Sat. at 2 p.m., other performances Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. 3 p.m., and Mon. 8 p.m. Weill Concert Hall, Green Music Center, 1801 East Cotati Ave., Rohnert Park; 546-8742; santarosasymphony.com.
TRIO 180
FEBRUARY 16
Gualala Arts Chamber Music Series presents Trio 180 (formerly New Pacific Trio), in residence at the University of the Pacific Conservatory of Music. The talented ensemble is made up of celebrated concert violinist Ann Miller, Grammy-nominated cellist Nina Flyer, and award-winning pianist Sonia Leong. 4 p.m. $25 in advance, $30 at the door, ages 7 through 17 admitted free with adult. 4 p.m. Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
FEBRUARY 21
STUART LITTLE
Dallas Children’s Theater presents a stage presentation of E.B. White’s beloved novel. The unusual mouse born into an ordinary New York City family experiences several escapades at home and then travels to the country for even more adventures and misadventures. $17 adults, $12 children. 6:30 p.m.Wells Fargo Center for the Arts, 50 Mark West Springs Rd., Santa Rosa; 546-3600; wellsfargocenterarts.com.
FEBRUARY 22
MR. HEALDSBURG PAGEANT
This is a zany fundraiser for Healdsburg’s venerable Raven Theater. See a group of usually mild-mannered, unassuming grown men flaunt style and talent in an entertaining, over-the-top bid to wear the crown. See website or call for admission price and time. Raven Performing Arts Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 433-6335 x11; raventheater.org.
aged, Natural Black Angus hormone and antibiotic free slow cooked prime rib hand trimmed steaks fresh fish full bar cozy fireplace lounge Sonoma County wines lunch weekdays 11:30 - 2:30 dinner every night at 5
4618 Old Redwood Hwy Santa Rosa, CA (707) 527-7768 www.cricklewoodrestaurant.com catty corner from Wells Fargo Art Center
sonoma discoveries
• 13
Art & About (All area codes 707 unless noted)
Christopher Queen Gallery
Established in 1976, the gallery features Early California and Contemporary art. Our extensive collection of Early California paintings include artists from the 1860s to the 1940s. Our contemporary artists reflect the California landscape as well as capturing representational renderings of still life, genre and real life. #4 John Orr’s Gardens, Duncans Mills; 865-1318; christopherqueengallery.com
Dolphin Gallery
The Annual Holiday Boutique, through Dec. 29. Joanne Abreu, embellished gourds, and Rozann Grunig, photography, through Jan. 29; reception Jan. 4, 5 to 7 p.m. Joanne Cassidy, raku ceramics, and Judy Pfeifer, paintings and drawings, through Feb. 26, reception Feb. 1, 5 to 7 p.m. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 39225 Hwy. 1, Gualala; 8843896; gualalaarts.org.
Erickson Fine Art Gallery
Representing the best of Northern California painters and sculptors: Bobette Barnes, Joe Draegert, Finley Fryer, Chris Grassano, Susan Hall, John Haines, Jerome Kirk, Donna McGinnis, Michael Mew, Tom Monaghan, Jean Mooney, Jeanne Mullen, Bob Nugent, Carlos Perez, Sam Racina, Carol Setterlund, Monica Steiner, Jeffrey Van Dyke, Paul Van Lith and Antoinette Von Grone. Open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m., Wed. by appointment; 324 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 431-7073; ericksonfineartgallery.com.
Graton Gallery
“New Works,” James Freed and Sandra Rubin with guest artists Peter M. Krohn and Marcia Lavine, through Dec. 1. Sally Baker, Dec. 3 through Jan. 12, reception Dec. 7, 2 to 5 p.m. Eighth Annual Invitational, Jan. 14 through Feb. 22, reception Jan. 18, 2 to 5 p.m. Small Works Show, Feb. 25 through March 30, reception March 1, 2 to 5 p.m. Open Tues. through Sat. 10:30 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sun. 10:30 a.m. to 4 p.m., closed Mon. and Tue. 9048 Graton Rd., Graton; 829-8912; gratongallery.com. 14 • winter 2013
Feathered Light No. IV, by Mikio Watanbe. Ren Brown Gallery.
Gualala Arts Center
“Festival of Trees,” Nov. 29 and 30. “From Silica to Sparkle – The Art of Glass,” Dec. 6 through Feb. 14. “Love Show,” Feb. 7 through March 1, 2014. Opening receptions are the first night of the exhibit, 5 to 7 p.m. 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
Hammerfriar
“About Time,” Feb. 15 through March 29. Two floors of rotating art by established and emerging conceptual Sonoma County and Bay Area artists. Open Mon. through Sat., 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Sun. noon to 4 p.m.; 132 Mill St., Suite 101, Healdsburg; 473-9600; hammerfriar.com.
Hand Fan Museum
The only fan museum in the U.S. American Fan Collector 2013 Abbey Cash, highlighting a variety of fans and eras from 1750 to 1900. Come see history and art that fit in the palm of your hand. Open Wed. through Sun., 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Closed holidays and rainy days. 219 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 4312500; handfanmuseum.org.
ART GALLERIES
Healdsburg Center for the Arts
“Contrast,” 2014 Members Show centers around the theme of contrast. Jan. 9 - Feb. 2, 2014. Artist Reception: Sat., Jan 11, 5p.m. - 7 p.m. Holiday Gift Gallery, Nov. 21 through Jan. 1. 130 Plaza St., Healdsburg; 431-1970; healdsburgcenterforthearts.com.
Local Color Gallery
The paintings of Jody Shipp, Ron Summers, Judy Henderson, Pamela Wallace and Florence Brass are featured along with the photography of Phil Wright and Tom Moyer. Pottery, jewelry and more by local artists. 1580 Eastshore Rd., Bodega Bay; 875-2744; localcolorgallery.com.
Ren Brown Collection
“The Magic of Mezzotint,” through December, featuring the work of Katsunori Hamanishi, Mikio Watanabe, Holly Downing, John Edwards and / Takahiro Sato. “New Year, New Prints,” January – February, recent woodblock, etching and silkscreen prints by gallery artists including Seiko Tachibana, Shigeki Kuroda, Micah Schwaberow and Yoshikatsu Tamekane. Ongoing contemporary ceramics, handcrafted jewelry and Japanese antique furnishings. Come visit our Japanese gardens, too. Wed. to Sun., 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 1781 Coast Hwy. 1, Bodega Bay; 875-2922; renbrown.com. sonoma discoveries
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Renga Arts
Art, crafts and products made from reclaimed and re-used materials.Thursday through Mon., 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.; 2371 Gravenstein Hwy. So. Sebastopol; 823-9407; renga-arts.com.
Sebastopol Center for the Arts
“Annual Member Show,” Dec. 4 through Jan. 3.Work by local artist members. 25year celebration party, Dec. 13, 6 to 9 p.m., $10 members, $15 non-members/door. "Vessels," their many configurations, interpretations and meanings– juried exhibition featuring vases, sculptures, clay, glass, wood, painted still life, space vessels, nautical vessels and blood vessels. Reception, Jan. 9, 6 to 7:30 p.m. "In the Red,” Feb, 20 – April 4, juried exhibition representing all media in which the color red is used as an integral component of the work; reception Feb. 20, 6 to 7:30 p.m. Open Tue. through Fri. 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Sat., 1 to 4 p.m. 282 S. High St., Sebastopol Veterans Building, Sebastopol; 829-4797; sebarts.org.
Sebastopol Gallery
Makiing
ART A RT
Happ Happen pp pen The preeminent art center in the North Bay Area 282 S. High St. Sebastopol, CA
www.sebarts.org 707.829.4797
ARTT PERFORMANCE PERFORMAN LITERARY Y FILM CLASSES CLA 16 • winter 2013
“Beneath the Surface, Assemblage Art” by Rebecca Trevino and Pastels by Bert Kaplan, through Jan. 12. Reception: Dec. 7, 5-7 p.m. “Fashion Statements: Art to Wear,” designer jewelry, clothes, accessories by Lexi Daly, Abby Bard, Amy Smith and Anne Howsen. Jan. 13 through March 1. Reception and modeling, Jan. 25, 5 to 7 p.m. Open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. 150 North Main St., Sebastopol; 829-7200; sebastopol-gallery.com.
Upstairs Art Gallery
Healdsburg’s historic, oldest gallery is artist-owned and exhibits a wide variety of fine art paintings and artisan crafts. Open daily 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.; 306 Center St., Healdsburg, on the mezzanine inside Levin & Co. Bookstore; 431-4214; upstairsartgallery.com.
ON STAGE
SLEEPING INDOORS
November 29 - December 22 A couple adopts a homeless person for the holidays. The simple gesture gets complicated when a wacky sister inserts herself into the situation, setting up the revelation of a remarkable gift and a tragic secret. Call or see website for ticket info and performance times. Rio Nido Lodge, 4444 Wood Rd., Rio Nido; 5832343; pegasustheater.com.
THE LITTLE PRINCE DECEMBER 5 – 22
Local playwright and journalist David Templeton has adapted Antoine de Saint-Exupéry’s story for the stage, a tale of a stranded airplane pilot whose solitary life takes an unexpected turn when he encounters a mysterious little boy in the Sahara desert. $25 general, $20 seniors 65+, $15 students. Thurs. through Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. 5 p.m. Main Stage West, 104 N. Main St., Sebastopol; 823-0177; mainstagewest.com.
(All area codes 707)
TASTE JANUARY 10 - 19
This limited-run work by a local author riffs off Pygmalion and Cinderella, but the setting is Sonoma Wine Country. The young ingénue character is given a job that involves saving a struggling winery. $15 general admission. Fri. and Sat. 8 p.m. (doors open 7:30), Sun. matinees 2 p.m. Raven Players, Raven Performing Arts Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 4336335 x11; raventheater.org.
-ODERN *APANESE 0RINTS 2EGIONAL !RT
DON’T DRINK THE WATER JANUARY 31 - FEBRUARY 16
Woody Allen’s hilarious story takes place behind the Iron Curtain during the hottest period of the Cold War. An American family of three takes refuge in the embassy after being mistaken for spies rather than tourists. $25 general, $20 seniors 65+ and students with ID. Fri. and Sat. 8 p.m., Sun. matinees 2 p.m. Raven Players, Raven Performing Arts Theater, 115 North St., Healdsburg; 433-6335 x11; raventheater.org.
ENCHANTED APRIL FEBRUARY 21-28, MARCH 1-2
The Hartford News said, “This is the kind of play that reminds you why you love theater.” Lynne Atkins directs the story of four women from 1920s England who share holiday lodging at a coastal castle in Italy. $15 adults and $10 youth (ages 7 to 17) in advance, $5 more day of performance. Fri. and Sat. 7 p.m., Sun. matinees 2 p.m. Coleman Auditorium, Gualala Arts Center, 46501 Gualala Rd., Gualala; 884-1138; gualalaarts.org.
MARVIN’S ROOM FEBRUARY 21-28, MARCH 1-2
This warm-hearted drama with humorous insights examines the ties that bind families together—whether they like it or not. $18 general admission. Fri. and Sat. at 8 p.m., Sun. matinees at 2 p.m. Cloverdale Performing Arts Center, 209 N. Cloverdale Blvd., Cloverdale; 894-2214; cloverdaleperformingarts.com. See also Holiday Performances, Page 7 sonoma discoveries
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Discoveries Picks 5 Coastal Secrets
How could such a wild and majestic meeting of land and water like Sonoma’s northern Pacific Ocean ridge hold any secrets from the traveler’s view? That’s an easy question to answer. All one has to do is drive a little slower up Highway 1 and look for the telltale signs of where the locals have made wide unmarked parking spaces from frequent stops. Here is where you will find secret views, hiding flora, spectacular landscapes and half-hidden coastal delectables. Here are five to whet your appetite:
1
Timber Cover Inn. Built during the Beatnik Days (but recently totally restored), this inn sits on a craggy rock mass, surrounded by the ghosts of Ansel Adams, original owner Richard Clements and sculptor Beniamino Bufano’s Peace Obelisk and torso in the rock garden (ask about their stories). The Inn has a massive fireplace, long wooden bar, ocean-view dining and miles of coastline for viewing and hiking. Secret: The 93-foot obelisk is accessible to the public (park in the gravel parking at the north end of the Inn) – but only the unhippest of travelers would pass up a drink in the Inn’s ocean-view bar with its massive stone fireplace and natural timber ceiling beams.
2
MANMADE SECRET –
Right - Beniamino Bufano’s torso in the rock garden at Timber Cove Inn is a casting of a piece for which he sued and won $50,000 because the City of San Francisco did not display it properly. It was a gift to the Inn.
– It’s impossible to starve on the Coast. Ask the Pomos, the original human coast dwellers. The California Mussel is found in abundance on almost every intertidal rock. Mussels can be harvested all along the Coast except within posted marine sanctuaries and at certain times of the year (May through October.) A fishing license is required (single day $14.61), and there is a daily harvest limit of 10 pounds. That’s enough for sharing a steaming pot of ocean deliciousness. Mussels are visible and can be easily gathered at any time except at daily high tides. Here’s a secret: The mediumsized mollusks are the best – not too big, not too small.
3
MUSSELS
SODA SPRINGS RESERVE – Sonoma County’s
smallest and hardest-to-find public park is located just outside of Annapolis. (Turn off Annapolis Road onto Soda Springs Road, near the Annapolis Winery.) The 49-acre reserve is a protected redwood grove of towering old growth trees. There are two stone fireplaces, picnic tables, trails along Grasshopper Creek and lots and lots of quietude. The site is surrounded by private land. Secret: Take your own water or a favorite wine for a very private picnic. 18 • winter 2013
4
Sarah Bradbury Photo.
MUSHROOMS – Salt Point State Park is the only
public land in California where mushroom foraging is allowed. Hunters may gather five pounds per day. Get a guidebook or go with an expert. Where to look? Look for those telltale dirt pull-off areas along Highway 1 in the park. Secret: Following the season’s early rains and through most of the winter is the best time to go.
5
JENNER WATERFALL – Sometimes land meets water meets water and land all over again. That’s when you get a coastal waterfall. This one is hidden in a deep gulch at the top of Jenner Creek on semi-private land, adjacent to the newly created 5,600-acre Jenner Headlands. Park at the Jenner Russian River access next to the Post Office. Follow one of the roads behind the Jenner Inn and keep walking uphill. Secret: If there have been recent rains, you’ll hear the water falling before you see it. Keep walking.
Wine Discoveries
LA CREMA WINERY 2012 SONOMA COAST CHARDONNAY $23/13.8% alcohol
Following two challenging harvests, the 2012 vintage was a most welcomed experience. The long, gradual growing season and unhurried harvest provided for optimum fruit handling and cellar work. This very pleasant wine is an everyday Chardonnay for food pairings, full meals and aperitif sipping. The acidity is well balanced and the added malolactic fermentation and slightly smoked barrels add some honey and subtle butterscotch notes.
FREEMAN VINEYARD & WINERY 2011 SONOMA COAST PINOT NOIR $44/13.4% alcohol
The six vineyards that went into this cool climate Pinot Noir represent a broad selection of the Sonoma Coast appellation, with the largest contributor being Harmony Lane Vineyard near Occidental. Ken and Akiko Freemanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wines are hard to find and highly coveted. This wine is the current vintage and is already drinking well.
PRESTON OF DRY CREEK 2011 BARBERA DRY CREEK VALLEY $34/13.0% alcohol
Dry Creek Valley is famous for its Zinfandels, but the earliest Italian growers also discovered that the acid-adverse Barbera grape liked the red soils and warmer summers, too. Winemaker Matt Norelli claims his wine has scents of cranberry, cinnamon, raspberry and tobacco leaf, resulting in a very classic Italian-style wine, but definitely more elegant and finished than a â&#x20AC;&#x153;pasta wine.â&#x20AC;? Winery owner Lou Preston calls it an â&#x20AC;&#x153;Ital-Anglo hybrid.â&#x20AC;? This wine is made with organic grapes from their vineyard.
The best local ingredients, presented with style and elegance, in a casual bistro atmosphere.
We now oďŹ&#x20AC;er Outdoor Dining! Our Hours: -VODI Tuesday-Saturday: 11:30am-2:30pm %JOOFS Tuesday-Saturday: 5:30am-9:00pm
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Friendly advice and global selection
FORT ROSS VINEYARD & WINERY 2011 PINOT NOIR SEA SLOPES $42/13.0% alcohol
This cool-climate, coastal wine is lighter than most of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pinots and is ready to drink now, but will continue to mature over the next few years. But why wait? The wine is full of black cherries and other berry aromas. The tannins are there, but not overbearing, and the unmistakable hint of coastal ridgetop minerals is there as well.
ANNAPOLIS WINERY 2008 ZINFANDEL PORT $35/18.0% alcohol
Drinking this high-powered port-style wine will make you swear there must be twice as many grapes captured in the bottle than is possible. It is that intense but in a very good way. The Zinfandel grapes were grown at the coastal ridge winery at 1,000-foot elevation. Before adding some brandy to fortify the wine, the very juicy Zinfandel was already at 17 percent alcohol. Only a minimal 1 percent of brandy had to be added. Future Annapolis Winery ports from the 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012 vintages are still aging in the wineryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cellar. Stay tuned.
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20 • discoveries
Sonoma Coast’s basil and barbara Scalabrini
“Our focus is on quality and not quannnapolis Winery’s Basil and Barbara Scalabrini could have lived the tity. We tend to let the fruit control last half of their lives with an “I told you what we do. We strive for a Sonoma so” attitude, but the words actually have Coast essence.” never crossed their lips. Almost two Funny she should say that after the decades before the Sonoma Coast was recent newsmaking episode known as “discovered” as a chosen spot to grow Preservation Ranch, a proposed–and super-premium Pinot Noir grapes, the now dead–corporate proposal to concouple already had planted their high-elvert almost 20,000 nearby acres into evation vineyards and converted an old large mountain top vineyard estates. timber outpost to a small winery. Earlier this year the California Coastal “When we located up here, I think Conservancy, Sonoma County’s AgriDavid Hirsch (Cazadero’s Hirsch Vinecultural Preservation and Open Space yards) was still District and the making about Sonoma Land Trust two barrels of When we located up here, amassed a $24.5 wine a year in his million purchase of I think David Hirsch barn,” rememexpansive (Cazadero’s Hirsch Vine- the bers Barbara, property to preyards) was still making who kept her about two barrels of wine serve the forestdaytime teaching lands and sensitive a year in his barn. job for many upper Gualala – Barbara Scalabrini years after their River watershed. winery was built. “Our lives would Husband Basil have changed drasalso kept working as a school principal tically,” Barbara said. “This area would in nearby Point Arena. have become a whole different place.” “We’re old-fashioned,” declares BarInstead, the Scalabrinis, now joined by bara. “We make really good wines, but son Aron, will continue making their not like the ones most people might be Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot used to.” Noir and a few white wines in mostly Annapolis Winery wines come from quiet, rural solitude. the family’s vineyards where the thin soils Annapolis Winery is Sonoma County’s and ocean air tend to stress the vines a bit. most northern tasting room, located The Scalabrinis favor wines with high above The Sea Ranch and Timber Cove acidity that take 2 to 3 years of barrel along Annapolis Road about eight miles aging before they are released.All the fruit from the Pacific Ocean. Annapolis is still is grown organically, but is not certified. home to more sheep than people.
Tasting Rooms
with Coastal Connections For more in-depth tasting room experiences, reservations are recommended.
Banshee Wines – 325 Center St., Healdsburg, CA 95448. Open daily from 11 a .m. to 7 p.m. 707-395-0915, www.bansheewines.com.
Benovia Winery – 3339 Hartman Rd., Santa Rosa, CA 95401. By appointment only. 707-526-4441, www.benoviawinery.com. Benziger Family Winery –
1883 London Ranch Rd., Glen Ellen, CA 95442. By appointment only. 707.935.4527, www.benziger.com.
Ceritas Wines – 1160B Hopper Ave.,
Santa Rosa CA 95403. By appointment only. 707-473-9482, ceritaswines.com.
Emeritus Vineyards – 2500 Gravenstein Hwy. North, Sebastopol, CA 95472. By appointment only. 707-823-4464, www.emeritusvineyards.com.
Failla Wines – 3530 Silverado Trail, St. Helena, CA 94574. By appointment only. 707-963-0530, www.faillawines.com.
Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery –
15725 Meyers Grade Rd., Jenner, CA 95450. Open daily 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. 707847-3460, www.fortrossvineyard.com.
Halleck Vineyard – 3785 Burnside Rd., Sebastopol, CA 95472. By appointment only. 707-829-8170, www.halleckvineyard.com. Hartford Family Winery – 8075
Martinelli Rd., Forestville, CA 95436. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. 800-588-0234, www.hartfordwines.com.
Hirsch Vineyards – 45075 Bohan
Dillon Rd., Cazadero, CA 95421. By appointment only. 707-847-3600, www.hirschvineyards.com.
Paul Hobbs Wines – 3355 Graven-
stein Hwy. N, Sebastopol, CA 95472. By appointment only. 707-824-9879, www.paulhobbswinery.com .
Joseph Phelps Vineyards – 12747 El Camino Bodega, Freestone, CA 95472. Open daily 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 707-8741010, www.josephphelps.com.
Peay Vineyards – 227 Treadway Dr., Cloverdale, CA 95425. By appointment only. 707-894-8720, www.peayvineyards.com.
Littorai Wines – 788 Gold Ridge
Red Car Wine – 8400 Graton Rd., Sebastopol, CA 95472. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. 707-829-8500, www.redcarwine.com.
LaRue Wines – 21692 8th St. East, Suite 300, Sonoma, CA 95476. By appointment only. 707-933-8355, www.laruewines.com.
Rd., Sebastopol, CA 95472. By appointment only. 707-823-9586, www.littorai.com.
MacPhail Family Wines –
851 Magnolia Dr., Healdsburg, CA 95448. By appointment only. 707-4334780, www.macphailwine.com.
Marimar Estate Vineyards & Winery – 11400 Graton Rd., Se-
bastopol, CA 95472. At the winery: Open daily 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 707-8234365, www.marimarestate.com. At The Barlow: 6780 McKinley St., Sebastopol, CA 95472. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. 707-823-9910.
Martinelli Winery – Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. 3360 River Rd., Windsor, CA 95492. 800 346-1627, www.martinelliwinery.com. Papapietro Perry Winery –
4791 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg, CA 95448. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. 707-433-0422, www.papapietroperry.com.
Patz & Hall Winery – Open Wed.
Ramey Wine Cellars – 25 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg, CA 95448. By appointment only. 707-433-0870.
Siduri Wines – 981 Airway Ct., Suites E & F, Santa Rosa, CA 95403. By appointment only. 707-578-3882, www.siduri.com.
Sojourn Cellars – 141 E Napa St., Sonoma, CA 95476. By appointment only. 707- 938-7212, www.sojourncellars.com. Sonoma Coast Vineyards –
Windsor Vineyards tasting room, 308 B Center St., Healdsburg, CA 95448. Open daily 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. 707-9212893, www.sonomacoastvineyards.com.
Wild Hog Vineyard – 30904 Bohan Dillon Rd., Cazadero, CA 95421. By appointment only. 707-847-3687, www.wildhogvineyard.com. 32 Winds Wine – 1010 Dry Creek Rd., Healdsburg, CA 95448. By appointment only. 707-433-1010, www.32winds.com.
through Sun. from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. 707-265-7700, www.patzhall.com. Call for current tasting room location.
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The Golden Sonoma Coast By Kimberly Kaido-Alvarez | Photos by Sarah Bradbury
Winegrowers close to the sea stand out in this vast AVA
T
he Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA) was created in 1987, and it covers primarily the coastline of Sonoma County – but the AVA’s boundaries do veer inland just east of Bodega Bay, spreading south and east into the Petaluma Watershed where boundaries reach the northern tip of Sonoma Valley just outside Santa Rosa. Although the Sonoma Coast AVA spans more than 500,000 acres of western and southern Sonoma County, only 2 percent of that land is planted in vines. Cooler and wetter than the rest of Sonoma County, the Sonoma Coast is considered a maritime climate that features more fog than other AVAs in Sonoma County. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are
22 • winter 2013
Above: Wright’s Beach, looking north.
Map: Courtesy of Sonoma County Winegrowers.
the varieties of choice for many growers in the region and together they account for more than 75 percent of the AVA’s wines. “We’re really enthusiastic about our Pinot Noir plantings in the area,” said Kistler Vineyards General Manager Mark Bixler. Kistler Vineyards farms Sonoma Coast vineyards at Occidental Station and Bodega Headlands. Winegrapes with unique and full flavors are what attracted Kistler’s winemakers to the Sonoma Coast growing region. Soil types in the Sonoma Coast AVA are diverse featuring components of clay, rock and gravel. However, in Kistler’s Bodega Headlands vineyard, the famed Goldridge soil is on site. “We’re very happy with that,” said Bixler, about the sandy
loam soil type that is preferred by key Pinot Noir growers in West Sonoma County. In addition to the primary plantings of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Meunier, Zinfandel, Syrah and Gewürztraminer are also planted within the Sonoma Coast AVA but acreage is minimal. Currently, sections of the Sonoma Coast AVA are “under study,” pending potential definitions of sub-AVAs within the greater region. Like many sections of Sonoma County featuring diverse terrain and microclimates, the huge Sonoma Coast region is by far no exception and may see further delineation in the future.
E x t r e me S o no ma C o as t
A wafting breeze of crisp salty air teases the senses and promises views of white waves crashing against rock formations sculpted by the sea.The grand shores of the Sonoma Coast just might be hiding around the next bend, beyond a grove of redwoods or over the hill, wherever she is, her presence preceeds her. Wild and mysterious, this part of the Pacific is hard to figure out. Often surrounded by a foggy mist, the unpredictable weather seems to have a mind of its own, sometimes changing with a sudden gust of wind that comes out of nowhere. Experiencing more than its fair share of rain, the climatic drama is only inColeman Valley Road, before dropping down to Highway 1. tensified by a seascape featuring towering cliff lines. This is the Sonoma Coast that on the surface might look like a scene from the “Chronicles of Narnia” or a farmer’s worst nightmare, depending on one’s perspective. But never ceasing to amaze, the Sonoma Coast is full of surprise, and tucked just beyond the coastal bluffs are nooks and crannies hospitable to winegrapes, fruits, vegetables and more. Diverse terrain that includes elevated ridges, insulated coves, canyons and sprawling valleys with shifting fault lines create a unique growing environment that communicates with the senses like no other. “What you get here is flavor compounds expressing themselves to their full potential. It’s the same with vegetables as it is with fruit; everything just tastes better,” said grower/owner Byron Sheets of Doc’s Ranch Vineyard in Occidental, located just four miles from the shores of the Pacific Ocean. Doc’s Ranch Vineyard meets the local criteria for being a part of the “extreme” Sonoma Coast. “The question growers ask is, ‘Can you see blue water?” said Sheets. For his vineyard that is perched atop a coastal hillside above the fog layer at 1,030 feet, the answer is “yes.” That is, on a clear day. sonoma discoveries
• 23
Doc’s Ranch Vineyard.
Doc’s Ranch Vineyard is enhanced by a banana belt effect caused by the surrounding mountains and other geographic features of the coastal region. The vineyard is bathed in just enough sunshine to ripen the Pinot Noir variety that thrives in the microclimate that cools in the late afternoon and evening with a blanket of fog. “We’re on the very edge of where winegrapes can be grown and a full growing season is needed,” explained Sheets, who also noted that his vineyard is one of the last to be harvested in Sonoma County. The yields are often small but the quality of the fruit is renowned. “Winemakers go crazy over the fruit (from the Sonoma Coast),” said Sheets. Pinot Noir vineyards, planted in 1999, are just coming into their prime, and Red Car Winery buys the fruit from Doc’s
Ranch Vineyard that is then transformed into wine. Kistler Vineyards, Martinelli Winery, Hirsch Vineyard & Winery and Flowers Vineyard & Winery are a few other growers in the Sonoma Coast region that have gained a stellar reputation for putting out top notch Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines – some of which cost a pretty penny. “That can have a lot to do with farming in this remote area,” explained Sheets. Steep hillsides and rocky soils can be hard on equipment, not to mention the cost of the fuel that it takes to reach the actual vineyard plots. But the seaside view and the quality of the fruit make the endeavor worthwhile. “It’s therapeutic to come out here and work in the vineyard,” said Sheets, who can see and hear crab boats with their trademark lights in the evening and early morning hours during that seafood season.
Occupying Sonoma Coast’s western corner is the Fort RossSeaview AVA. Approved in 2012 and located along the Pacific coastline at elevations between 920 to 1,800 feet, the vineyards are often above the fog line and receive cool sunshine. Like many other areas in the Sonoma Coast AVA, the Fort Ross-Seaview region is no stranger to low yields and terrain that may be too steep to farm. Dramatic ridges help to define the Fort Ross-Seaview area from other parts of the Sonoma Coast. “The steep coastal ridges where we grow our grapes were part of the enormous and di-
verse Sonoma Coast AVA.To distinguish this steep coastal location, this area was called the ‘True,’‘Extreme’ or ‘Wild’ Sonoma Coast to try to differentiate it from the expansive Sonoma Coast AVA – but it had no fixed boundaries,” explained Linda Schwartz of Fort Ross Vineyards and Winery. After 14 years of planning and paperwork, the Fort RossSeaview AVA is finally a reality with an official name. Like other parts of the Sonoma Coast, the unique Fort Ross-Seaview growing region is also home to plenty of Pinot Noir vines that shine in their own way, depending on the vineyard site.
Fort Ross-Seaview AVA
24 • winter 2013
“In this maritime climate, the grapevines maintain their lively acidity, minerality and nuanced tannins and provide structure to balance the pure fruit,” said Schwartz. The soil types in the Fort Ross area are diverse, consisting of Yorkville, Boomer, Sobrante, Laughlin and Hugo soils. Most of these soils tend to be well draining loams with various gravelly materials from weathered sedimentary and metamorphic rocks. Hugo soils also drain well and are very gravelly loams derived from sandstone and shale. Boomer, on the other hand, is a soil that resulted from metavolcanic activity and is, again, well draining, but fine and loamy. Similar to other areas throughout Sonoma County, soil types can change within feet or miles from one another creating a “patchwork quilt” effect on geological maps and plenty of diversity in the wine glass. In the coastal vineyards of the new AVA, spring winds can be a blessing or a curse. While strong winds can be damaging to the vines, the presence of some wind can be beneficial, quickly eliminating excess moisture from the canopy of the vines. Special farming techniques are employed to guard vines from heavy gusts. “We planted most of the blocks with a north to south orientation so that the wind would blow between the rows and not directly at the grapevines. This also allows the morning sunshine on one side of the canopy and the afternoon sunshine
A view from Seaview Road heading toward Meyers Grade Road.
on the other side of the canopy,” said Schwartz. Significant winter rainfall is characteristic of the entire Sonoma Coast AVA. Receiving about 45 to 60 inches annually, it’s about double the average of surrounding areas. Again, the Fort RossSeaview AVA is up a notch, and like the wind, ample rain can also be a positive. “The significant winter rains – 75 to 125 inches each year, more than in the Amazon Jungle – allows us to collect rainwater in a pond for irrigation. The resulting water-holding capacity of the soil keeps the vines sufficiently hydrated through July without any need for irrigation,” explained Schwartz. Dry farming and naturally collecting rainwater doesn’t come as a surprise as growers in the Sonoma Coast and Fort Ross-Seaview AVAs seem to be a resourceful bunch willing to look Mother Nature straight in the eye. Sustainability and environmental stewardship is the norm here and practiced in a really genuine sort of way, from the naming of the vineyards to the conscientious objection to adding chemicals to the soil. Home to the first winegrapes planted in Sonoma County in the year 1817 at Fort Ross, the area might very well be considered the birthplace of Sonoma County’s viticultural pursuits. As leaders in the sustainable agriculture movement, growers from this region are providing proof for the premise that a seamless connection between nature and Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery’s pond, collected from abundant rainwater. vineyard can indeed be made. b sonoma discoveries
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Wines from the
Wild West Coast of Sonoma
“To me that wildness is part of the terroir. Vines, unlike humans or animals, cannot get up and move. Whatever wildness it is that they are exposed is what they must become adapted to … that is part of their terroir. That is what makes them unique living in that wild landscape.” Ted Lemon, Littorai Wines 26 • winter 2013
Shaped by the influences of wind, fog and cool days f you want to make wine on the very edge of North America, the coastal hills of Sonoma County are about as far west as you can go. A handful of small-scale vintners are doing just that, plying their trade on the farthest edges of the continent, carving out cool-weather vineyard sites among the rugged coastal terrain, exchanging smaller yields for the kind of character and flavors that you just won’t find from winegrapes grown anywhere else. In an effort to bring attention to their distinct growing region and winemaking styles, they have banded together as the West Sonoma Coast Vintners, establishing themselves among the world’s premiere producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines and setting themselves apart from the vast–and often confusing–Sonoma Coast appellation. The Sonoma County coast can be a dangerous and foreboding place, as anyone who has traveled the serpentine route along Highway 1 can attest. Jagged cliffs and impossibly steep ridges mark its boundaries. Rugged hillsides covered with thick stands of towering redwoods and other conifers are interspersed with golden grassland and ragged rock outcroppings. This is where the continent meets the sea, where the Pacific and North American tectonic plates have been grinding and churning up the Earth’s crust for hundreds of millions of years, creating a chaotic mélange of rock and soil where vineyards of unique character now subsist. And subsist is what they do. It is a landscape unlike any other, and certainly different from much of the Sonoma Coast American Viticultural
I
Meyers Grade Road, looking south above the Sonoma Coast fog.
Article by Barry Dugan b Photography by Sarah Bradbury
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Area (AVA), in which it is included. The Sonoma Coast AVA was created in 1987 and encompasses 500,000 acres, many of which are also part of six other AVAs. Critics say its expansive nature renders it meaningless as a guidepost for consumers who want to know the origins of wine they’re drinking. A wine with the Sonoma Coast designation could very well have originated in the coastal area, from Freestone, Cazadero or Occidental. But it could also have come from Petaluma, Sonoma, Carneros or Chalk Hill, far-flung growing regions that share little in the way of climate, soil or history with the West Sonoma Coast.
lengthy and expensive process that is just getting started. “We’re on a journey of discovery right now,” said Freeman. “We’re doing research on soil, history … we’re still in the studying and fact-finding state.” The WSCV’s first move was to hold a festival, “West of West,” or WOW, to showcase its members’ wines.The first festival was held in Sebastopol three years ago, and this year’s sold-out event in August drew 1,000 visitors. It featured 40 WSCV members pouring wine and hosting dinners, lunches and seminars. Freeman said this year they took WOW on the road to New York City, where 500 members of the public paid $100 for a twohour tasting, which also attracted 250 sommeliers. “That really
West Sonoma Coast Vintners
or that reason, a small group of vintners banded together in 2011 to form the West Sonoma Coast Vintners (WSCV) to set themselves apart from the much broader Sonoma Coast and distinguish the West Sonoma Coast as one of the world’s leading regions for cool weather Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines. “We got together to form an organization that can help consumers understand who we are and help define the region,” said Ken Freeman, one of the founding members of the group, who owns Freeman Vineyards & Winery, with his wife, Akiko, the winemaker. He explained that when the Sonoma Coast AVA was formed it seemed to be put together with what was left over from other Sonoma County growing regions and didn’t fit in an existing appellation. “There was no rhyme or reason” that an appellation included areas 20 miles from the coast, said Freeman. Some vineyard land in the Sonoma Coast AVA abuts the Napa County line, others skirt the northern edge of San Pablo Bay. Those who actually farm in a coastal area needed their own identity. “We all farm on or near the coast,” Freeman said of the WSCV members. “We include a lot of successful wineries and we were getting mixed signals from the market. There is a lot of confusion and we’re helping people understand who we are. We said if we create an organization, we are all going to be stronger together than we are individually. We need to get the message out about this area and about the style of wines we’re making.” Freeman describes that style as lighter, more complete and flavorful wines that are the product of being grown at higher elevations, under cooler conditions and sometimes marginal soils. These are vines – and winemakers – shaped by the coastal influences of wind, fog and cool days. To formalize their unique growing region, the eventual plan is to establish the West Sonoma Coast appellation, but that is a
F
28 • winter 2013
A tasting pour during the 2011 West of West wine festival in Occidental.
speaks to the interest in our region,” said Freeman. In West Sonoma County, the ocean-influenced climate is considerably cooler than just a few miles inland and grape yields tend to be small. A typical vineyard produces one to two tons of grapes per acre. Travel inland a few miles and yields are two to three times higher. It’s a harsh climate for growing winegrapes, but adversity builds character. “There is so much interest in cool weather wines,” said Freeman, “and we include some of the leading brands. These are wines that are sold at the best restaurants and are in the
best cellars around the world.” Among the members of WSCV, the average vintner produces 3,000 to 5,000 cases per year, with grapes grown in vineyards at elevations that range from 400 to 2,000 feet. “These are artisan, low-yield operations,” said Freeman. “There is a real sense of place and a real sense of personality in these wines. I think our organization is not just about wine, but we want to shine a light on the unique culture and history of the West County,” he said.
Looking toward Littorai’s winery from the habitat garden
Winemaker Ted Lemon of Littorai Wines takes a break during the 2012 harvest.
Littorai Wines
nother founding member of the WSCV is Ted Lemon of Littorai Wines, a family-owned winery west of Sebastopol, in the rolling hills a few miles from the coastline. Lemon, who has received widespread acclaim for his Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, cites a number of reasons the West Sonoma Coast Vintners group was needed. “It was ironic that you had some of the best Pinot Noir producers in California in this region … and yet there was no regional public identity,” said Lemon, who learned the winemaking trade in France under the tutelage of such preeminent winemakers as Jacques Seysses, Aubert de Villaine and JeanMarie Roumier. “This is a separate and distinct region and there are some well-known wineries who have received a lot of attention, but there was no well-known organization with a lot of attention being paid to it.We were kind of these people off growing grapes on Pluto. We were really in a parallel orbit.” But Pluto is no longer a planet, and the West Sonoma Coast is no longer in a parallel orbit.The annual WOW event and a steady flow of press coverage are bringing attention to the region and its distinct characteristics. What sets the West Sonoma Coast apart from other regions are the elements – and a recognition among its members that they are truly different. “There are a couple of things that are unique,” said Lemon. “The vast majority of these wineries are very small, family wineries. We get much higher rainfalls. There is less heat. It’s much more marginal
A
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grape growing. No one on the coast grows for volume.” The other element of the WSCV, as Lemon describes it, “is to support the cultural environment of the West County. The goal is to preserve and protect the history and landscape and culture of the West Sonoma Coast. As a group we are very aware that we live in a landscape and culture that is not like the rest of Sonoma County … it’s important to us that we reach out to our neighbors that are family farms, and we care about the environment. Nobody in our organization is interested in turning our region into Napa Valley.” Lemon’s personal winegrowing philosophy includes a blend of sustainable farming techniques drawn from what Littorai’s website describes as “the fertile cross currents of permaculture, agro-ecology and the agricultural philosophy of Rudolf Steiner, the father of biodynamic farming.” But none of those elements have a capital letter in front of them, nor does he care about being certified under any of those labels. His overarching tenet comes from the traditions of the fine wines of northern Europe: “The site is primary and then it’s about the humans who farm it,” he said, sitting on a picnic bench near the crush pad, as the final load of grapes from the 2013 harvest was being sorted. “Creating wines that come from a place, that is terroir,” said Lemon, referring to the idea that the characteristics of a place, including soil, climate and locale all contribute to a vineyard’s unique qualities. “It’s the idea that there are places on Earth that are sacred. This is reflected in native traditions everywhere. And it is reflected in wine in this idea of terroir. This should be a reminder that the Earth is a special place and we should take care of it.” A less tangible element of the West 30 • winter 2013
Littorai Winery during crush.
Just-harvested Pinot Noir grapes.
Housing tubes for mason bees.
Sonoma Coast’s terroir is the wild nature of its landscapes: windswept, fogshrouded canyons and golden hillsides glowing in the day’s final moments of sunlight. “To me that wildness is part of the terroir,” said Lemon. “Vines, unlike humans or animals, cannot get up and move.Whatever wildness it is that they are exposed is what they must become adapted to … that is part of their terroir. That is what makes them unique living in that wild landscape.” Another unique dimension at Littorai is the way the vineyards are tended. “We try to promote an alternative vision for farming,” said Lemon. “Viticulture has suffered from monoculture and it became a commitment for us to create what we call a wine farm.” This involves what he calls “a modern rediscovery of biodynamic gardening,” with a blending of permaculture and agro-ecology. It’s a fertile blend of complex systems of sustainable farming, that could be summed up as an effort to bring nature and farming into a compatible balance that can be carried out for many generations. Eight of the farm’s 30 acres are kept in woodlands, and another 14 acres are used to grow hay and graze cows.They avoid fertilizers and use compost they make on the farm, using hay from their hayfields, cow manure and other materials. They use all natural yeasts, and practice companion planting that encourages “the overall agro-ecological health of the vineyard. It’s about helping achieve a natural balance.” “It’s experimental, but you can make it work,” said Lemon, who doesn’t preach about his way of farming, but invites visitors to explore it for themselves. And he is pragmatic about modern realities. “We are not going to give up petroleum entirely,” he said. “But we’re trying to do the various things that reduce the inputs that contribute to that footprint.”
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sonoma discoveries
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Freeman Vineyard & Winery
ust to the north is one of Lemon’s neighbors, Freeman Vineyard & Winery. Winemaker Akiko Freeman may have a less lengthy enological resumé, but she has a genuine appreciation for the unique conditions that exist in West Sonoma County and contribute to the wines she is able to produce. “It is cool, so each berry isn’t that big and each cluster is small and the juice inside has more skin contact and that creates more complexity and intensity,” said Freeman, who is in her 13th year at the winery.
J
Hers was not a typical career path to winemaking. A native of Japan, she studied art history in the U.S. and was working in New York City at the Metropolitan Museum of Art when she met her future husband, Ken Freeman. Akiko followed Ken when his career brought him west, and she went to Stanford to receive a Master’s in Italian Renaissance art history. She and Ken shared a love of good food and wine, and living in the Bay Area they spent many weekends tasting wines in Sonoma and Napa. “I was totally happy drinking someone else’s wine,” Akiko recalls. Soon, they started dreaming of having their own winery. “I always thought it was just a dream,” she said. But then the dream got very real; they went on a three-year search of theWest Coast from Santa Barbara to Mendocino for a small winery that could make their dream come true. “Every place we liked, 32 • winter 2013
we couldn’t afford; and the places we could afford, we didn’t like,” she said. Then they chanced upon their current home: a forgotten winery property that had been neglected. “It was almost like a ghost winery,” Akiko said. But the couple set to reviving the facility, and it’s a picturesque setting: a rustic, yet modern winemaking facility, with a wine cave set into a hillside, and surrounded by groves of redwoods. Specializing in Pinot Noir, Akiko said the timing of their first vintage was fortuitous. It coincided with the release of the film, “Sideways,” which is widely credited with catapulting Pinot Noir into mainstream popularity among wine drinkers. Pinot Noir consumption jumped 200 percent after the movie came out. For the first seven years at the winery, Akiko worked
Akiko Freeman (above), at the entrance of Freeman Winery’s hillside cave; (below) Ken and Akiko Freeman of Freeman Winery at the tasting bar.
closely with consulting winemaker Ed Kurtzman to craft their wines. She admits to being somewhat surprised at how good the wines were; after all, she has no chemistry background. “We thought we could make some pretty god wines, but we didn’t think they would be this good. But with a good consulting winemaker and some great grapes … it turned out to be … yummy.” Even after Kurtzman turned
over the reins to Akiko, he still consults and she will call him for advice when she gets nervous about how quickly or slowly a fermentation is taking place. “Pinot Noir is a finicky grape,” she said. “The first thing Ed told me was ‘be patient with the wine.’” Being a quick study, she got up to speed pretty quickly and Freeman’s vintages sell out regularly. “We try to make elegant wines, which are not over-ripe or overmanipulated,” Akiko said. “We try not to do too much. We try to get the very best fruit and let the fruit speak.” Akiko had no formal training in enology or viticulture prior to embarking on her winemaking career, but her taste for fine Pinot Noirs was cultivated at a very early age in Tokyo. Her grandfather was a leading academic, whose work took him to London and where he developed a love for fine French wines. Akiko’s father, who inherited a collection of vintage Pinot Noirs, initiated her into the world of fine wines at the age of nine. “I grew up drinking French Pinot Noirs,” she said. Many years later, she is very pleased with the circuitous route her life has taken. “I am grateful to my husband who put me in this job,” said Akiko. “I didn’t know I would enjoy this, but I do.” The personal connection with customers is something she appreciates, it creates the kind of bond she equates with being a loyal baseball fan (Akiko is a Red Sox fan, like her husband). “If we have a bad year, they cheer for us,” she said of her customers. “And if we have a good year, they are happy along with us.” The emergence of the WSCV has been an added bonus. “Everybody in this group is doing it because they love it,” said Akiko. “There is just not a bad winery in our group.” b
Winemaker Akiko Freeman cleans tools during harvest.
Trione Vineyards & Winer y For more than three decades, the Trione family has carefully farmed and managed 750 acres of some of the finest grapes in Sonoma Countyy. With painstaking devotion to the land, the Trione family has developed a reputation for producing premium grapes, and in 2005, they decided to start their own portfolio o as T Trione rione Vineyards & Winery.
Trione Vineyards &Winery 19550 Geyserville Ave. Geyserville, Ca 95441 Our tasting room is open to the public. May-October: T Thurs hurs hu dayMonday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. November-April: T Thurs hursdaySunday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. 707-814-8100 www.trionewinery.com
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The Tasting Room experience by Mary-Colleen Tinney | Photography by Sarah Bradbury
Sonoma County has the rare and enviable position of producing some of the world's top wines, perhaps none more lauded than the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays being produced from the coastal regions of the county. With the mid-1980s establishment of the Sonoma Coast American Viticultural Area (AVA), winemakers since that time have been continually refining and focusing their coastal winemaking efforts. Those efforts have been richly rewarded. Many of the most acclaimed of Sonoma County's wineries are located in the western reaches of the Sonoma Coast AVA, where dozens of small producers and family vineyard owners are crafting finely tuned wines that speak to their “sense of place.” This somewhat nebulous concept, which the French have termed terroir, is really just a matter of talented growers and winemakers working in tandem to produce wines that convey the nuances of the place where they were grown. I set out to visit three West Sonoma County wineries known for their high-quality wines and unique sense of place to see how they interpret their Sonoma Coast origins. Each has a vastly different feel from the other, and on an ambitious tasting day (perhaps best with a hired driver) you could visit all three to experience what it means to be making terroir-driven wines.
Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery
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La Follette Wines
Perched on the Edge of the Continent
A leisurely hour-long drive from Sebastopol, either along the scenic coastal vistas of Highway 1 or through the soaring redwood forests of the Bohemian Highway and Highway 116, is the stunning Fort Ross Vineyard and Winery.This striking year-old tasting room is located about seven miles north of Jenner and two miles south of the Russian Fort Ross settlement. Fort Ross Winery believes that its tasting room and vineyards, which sit just a mile from the Pacific Ocean, are the closest to the coast in all of California. Sitting above the fog line, on a clear day the site offers breathtaking views of the ocean down to Point Reyes. The property, with vineyard sites ranging from 1,200 to 1,700 feet above sea level, is a grape-growing challenge. The vineyard land was developed through trial 34 • winter 2013
Looking south from Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery’s tasting room deck.
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Littorai Wines
and error by the tenaciously determined proprietors, South African natives Lester and Linda Schwartz. The project began in 1991 with a test vineyard of 16 varieties and has grown to 50 acres under vine on the property across 30 different vineyard blocks. Planted mostly to Pinot Noir, there are also eight acres of Chardonnay and two acres of the distinctive South African hybrid variety Pinotage, a cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsault that is very rarely found outside of its native country. From the entrance to the property, there is a short one-quartermile drive that takes visitors through native forest, a tree-lined meadow and then a pond, which Linda Schwartz calls “a journey through the terroir” of their site.The tasting room
building is meant to mimic the historic barns found throughout Sonoma County while Linda Schwartz designed the interior in her preferred minimalist style. The dog-friendly tasting room is cozy, warm and inviting, a mixture of rich earth tones and industrial wrought iron details. Soft, chestnut-colored leather-and-chrome chairs surround a fireplace, ideal for a cold coastal afternoon tasting. A wood-and-iron bar table and stools provides additional seating, while the expansive tasting bar looks out upon the Pacific Ocean view.A deck along the tasting room provides additional seating, with an intricate Art Nouveau-style iron fence design. The wines are all made from the property's vineyards on the site by winemaker Jeff Pisoni. In addition to the Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinotage selections, Fort Ross Winery also offers a Rosé of Pinot Noir. There is a $15 refundable tasting fee, and weary travelers can also purchase a charcuterie and cheese plate.The tasting room, with its full professional kitchen and an outdoor pizza oven, also hosts several events throughout the year.
Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery, 15725 Meyers Grade Road, Jenner. Open daily from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. in winter, and 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. in summer. Call 707-847-3460 or visit www.fortrossvineyard.com.
Charcuterie and cheese plate with a glass of Pinot Noir at Fort Ross Vineyard & Winery’s tasting room.
Natural Winemaking Meets The Barlow
For winemaker Greg La Follette, the art of crafting wine lies in the intersection between the mystical and the scientific. This is a philosophy that is reflected on the label of his eponymous La Follette winery, an illustration adapted from an 1840s-era French viticulture manual of a farmer hunched over three vines, gently reaching out to them with a magic wand clasped in his hand. La Follette Wines at The Barlow in Sebastopol is the first public tasting room for the 3-year-old brand Wine Educator Bill Shortridge with Abby and Rob from New York City at La Follette Wines in The Barlow. dedicated to single-vineyard Pinot Noir and Chardonnay sourced from cool climate vineyards in Sonoma and Mendocino counties. Opened in March of 2013, the bright and modern tasting room is a mix of friendly, casual quirkiness backed up by a strong dedication to the land that produced sonoma discoveries
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the wines. La Follette works intimately with a number of family grape growers to produce his wines, and his appreciation for their work is quite literally on display. Large photographs of the growers and their vineyards dot the cream-colored walls, while three gnarled, old-growth vines are exhibited within the tasting room's large, built-in wooden display case. La Follette, who once aspired to be a professional bagpiper, is one of Sonoma County's most renowned winemakers.With bachelor’s degrees in chemistry, plant biology and a master’s in food science and technology, he has crossed the globe as a winemaker and vineyard consultant. For several years, he served as the winemaker and general manager at the acclaimed Flowers Vineyard & Winery in Cazadero, honing his passion for the coastal Pinot Noir and Chardonnay he produces today at La Follette. La Follette has a minimalist winemaking philosophy, using only natural yeasts that come in on the fruit from the vineyard and eschewing technology like sterile filtration. La Follette crafts his wines through instinct, tradition and skill, and the results are elegant, individual wines that speak
to their vineyard origins. The winery offers a variety of tasting experiences to guests. The most basic is a bar tasting of up to four wines for a refundable $10 tasting fee, though our server was happy to give us a taste or two of other open bottles. For $5 more, the winery sets guests up with all they need to play a rousing game of bocce ball at The Barlow's bocce court, located just next to the tasting room. Beginning in early 2014, guests can also schedule a personal tasting with winemaker Greg La Follette. Available by appointment only, the $30 “Terroir Tasting with Greg” includes five wines in a seated tasting. The tasting room also hosts a number of special events, although there are few during the winter. In the summer, look for live music and wines paired with flavored popcorn (a food pairing that seems particularly favored at La Follette) and other similar events.
La Follette Wines at The Barlow, 180 Morris St., Suite 160, Sebastopol. Open daily from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Call 707-8274933 or visit www.lafollettewines.com.
Cult Wine on the California Coast
There is no question that Sebastopol's Littorai Wines, a name derived from the Latin word meaning “coasts,” is one of Sonoma County's most prestigious wineries. The winery, which was founded by Ted and Heidi Lemon in 1993, is one of the pioneers of “true” Sonoma Coast winemaking and grape growing. Winemaker Ted Lemon’s path to the Sonoma Coast begins in the Burgundy region of France, where he trained in the craft of winemaking. Lemon was, in fact, the first American winemaker to serve as winemaker for a Burgundy estate, a position he earned at the age of 24. The finesse of the Burgundian style of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay has had an indelible impact on Lemon's winemaking style ever since. The lineage is clear in Littorai's elegant, concentrated and well-structured wines. Littorai began as a passion project for the couple, beginning with just a few hundred cases of wine sold directly to restaurants and trade. Now producing about 5,000 cases, the winery is unlikely to increase production. The winery is dedicated to sustainability and low-impact practices in both farming and winemaking. The couple adheres to the biodynamic growing methods advanced in the 36 • winter 2013
Ted Lemon leads a tour of the property.
1920s by Austrian scientist and philosopher Rudolf Steiner. Vineyard owners who work with Littorai are also devoted to lowyield, organic or sustainable growing methods. Littorai's 30-acre Sebastopol winery estate is devoted to this environmentally healthy philosophy. The unmarked property, nestled among the rolling hills near Bodega Highway, is nearly impossible to find without the specific directions provided by the winery. Open by appointment only from Monday through Saturday, the winery offers a comprehensive 90-minute Gold Ridge Estate Tour and Tasting, which includes four wines (the wines being poured differ based on availability) for a cost of $40. The winery has also added a 45-minute Single Vineyard Tasting, which costs $25. For new visitors to the winery, especially those who are not familiar with the biodynamic and agroecological growing methods employed by the farm, the tour is highly recommended. The tour is offered year-round and takes visitors on a short walk through the property. In inclement weather, the winery has umbrellas and boots to share with guests, though the estate walk can be curtailed in truly terrible weather. Even so, because biodynamic philosophy aims to make the farm a self-sustaining entity, there is always something to be seen at the property. The solar-powered, gravity-fed winemaking facility was built to have as little impact on the land as possible. The walls are lined with hay bales for insulation, and the temperatures are regulated through natural air-cooling. Just three acres of the property are planted to vines, known as the Pivot Vineyard because the site was pivotal
Windsor Now Open!!!
9121 Windsor Rd. Windsor Town Green (707) 480-2269
For a Wee Bit of Ireland in Wine Country... A traditional Irish pub with great food. 21 Beers on tap. Watch your favorite sporting events on our 12 Big Screen HD TVs. Open for Lunch, Dinner, Sat & Sun Brunch.
Best Fish & Chips in Town! 9057 Windsor Rd. • Windsor • 707-838-7821 Hours: Sun-Th 10am-11pm, Fri & Sat 10am-12am Littorai Winery during harvest, with hay-bale construction on display in a see-through window.
in the decision to purchase the property. An additional eight acres will forever be preserved as native forest. The rest of the property is dedicated to pasture land, gardens, cover crops and compost piles used in the biodynamic farming process.
Littorai, Sebastopol. Open Monday through Saturday by appointment only. Reservations can be made online at www.littorai.com or by calling 707-823-9586. Please allow up to two weeks for reservations. b
Tuesday-Saturday 10-6 Sunday 10-5 9058 Windsor Road Windsor, CA 95492 (707)-837-0772 sonoma discoveries
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2
Established Restaurants Get Makeovers
By Abby Bard | Photos by Sarah Bradbury
Two innovative Sebastopol restaurants are realizing their dreams of expansion. Both are owned by husband and wife chefs with growing families and are well established as local favorites for great eating, featuring the highest quality local foods. Now they’ve outgrown their original spaces, and both are experiencing a creative culinary growth spurt.
Zazu Kitchen + Farm
Sebastopol – wake up and smell the bacon! Husband and wife chefs Duskie Estes and John Stewart are happily sharing the kitchen in the new incarnation of Zazu, formerly a tiny country roadhouse and now a much larger modern space, renamed Zazu Kitchen + Farm, which opened in August at The Barlow. The new Sebastopol location provides this couple with ample room to share the cooking area, which was not possible in the old location, and to have all of their specialized equipment, like John’s meat grinder and smoker and Duskie’s gelato machine, operating under one roof. “It’s our dream kitchen,” Duskie said, of the new space where John transforms the meat and Duskie does the line cooking. “John does everything that requires patience, and I do the things that are impatient. We’re very excited to work together. I’m very lucky!” Both are passionate about knowing who grows and makes the food they serve, being able to put a face on almost all the
38 • winter 2013
ingredients.They are advocates for preserving what is soulful about the area, supporting the raising of animals on pasture, treating them with respect and putting money directly in the hands of the farms. “There’s no luckier spot than right here; I love the diversity of agriculture.We couldn’t do this in NewYork, for example.Where we live makes all this possible.We’re simple cooks, we want to elevate the ingredients. If you have rockin’ ingredients, you can do it!” Duskie said. During the height of the growing season, 30 percent of the food served at Zazu came from their own gardens.They raise pigs for the bacon heavily featured on their menu, along with goats, sheep, rabbits and ducks. Vegetables are grown at their MacBryde Farm in Forestville and at another
garden they maintain at Davis Family Vineyards near Memorial Beach in Healdsburg. At the restaurant itself, tomatoes, peppers, sage, thyme and citrus and olive trees are planted in large wooden boxes that define the patio on the west side the building. Half of the bright and welcoming 3,600-square-foot space is devoted to the kitchen. The front is open to the dining area, and in the rear, there’s a section where sides of bacon are curing and vegetables are pickling in large tubs (visible from a hallway window). The dining room can accommodate 22 at the bar, on bright yellow metal stools, and 65 more seated at tables both inside and outside on the patio, which has lights and heaters for cooler evenings and umbrellas for sunny mornings and afternoons. sonoma discoveries
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John and Duskie (who was once a vegetarian) were crowned the King and Queen of Pork in 2011 at the Grand Cochon, the Heritage Pork Olympic Finals at the Aspen Food and Wine Festival. Appropriately, the outside corner of the building is marked by a Patrick Amiot sculpture of a pig. To further celebrate their porcine royalty, the industrial grey interior walls are enlivened with a single decoration– a large wall sculpture of a crown, points lit up–which hangs above the gleaming kitchen and is visible from everywhere in the restaurant. Duskie and John’s two daughters, Brydie, age 12, and Mackenzie, age 10, are second-generation foodies. A favorite game of theirs is a version of “Iron Chef,” where Duskie is the judge and both are winners. On an early autumn morning, I had brunch with a friend at Zazu. The sun came streaming into the space from the 40 • winter 2013
Above: (left) John Stewart and Duskie Estes in the kitchen; (right) housemade gelato.
south and west facing roll-up doors, lighting up the shiny chrome French press coffee pot, colorful orange coffee cups and azure blue mason jars (used as water glasses) on the simple wood table where we were served our meal. Little cozy details, like dishtowel-sized white napkins with red striped edges, folded between double plates, keep the dishes steady when knife and fork are applied.
Left: Communal table.
The food itself is simple, beautiful and absolutely delicious. My friend had the Dutch Baby Pancake, topped with fresh berries, lemon wedges and powdered sugar, served in its own individual iron pan, and I chose the Spud-O-Rama with cheddar cheese, scallions, topped with a fried egg and a dollop of sour cream.We also split a side order of Zazuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature house-made bacon, with a subtle maple flavor and dense, satisfying meatiness. sonoma discoveries
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K&L Bistro
Karen and Lucas Martin view plans for renovation.
and Karen Martin opened their French-inspired bistro 12 years ago on S. Main Street, they had a 10-year plan – but “things were in limbo for the last two years until a great offer from our landlady fell into our laps,” Lucas told me. When their former neighbor, Mermaids Day Spa, closed, they were able to occupy the entire building on an incremental 15-year lease and finally act on their vision. The new expansion enables them to enlarge the staff to 12 people on busy nights, freeing Lucas and Karen from their 17hour workdays and providing them more time at home with their sons, now 9 and 12, who literally grew up in the restaurant. Lucas is very excited to transform the original space into a full bar, with a raw bar for oysters in a glass enclosure at the entrance. “We’ll have six to eight beers on tap, a full liquor bar and sexy barstools from Harrington on Valencia Street in San Francisco, a whimsical brasserie-style bar menu and a TV. The bar tops are Caesarstone, with recycled glass, mirrors and seashells; we’ll use the granite from the original bar for the Ahi tuna tartar, avocado, sriacha, and ponzu with sesame chips. host station.”
Longtime fans of K&L Bistro will be happy to know that this consistently satisfying Sebastopol restaurant is planning to expand, both in size and scope, in 2014. On Jan. 1, K&L will close briefly for a complete remodel, planning to reopen in mid-February with a new bar, new dining room and plenty of kitchen space. When husband and wife chefs/owners Lucas
42 • winter 2013
The separation of the bar and new dining area is an important element for Lucas. Heâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inviting a new clientele, who are looking for a livelier atmosphere for cocktails, into the bar, while still making sure to consider the needs of his current and loyal patrons for a quiet and relaxed space to dine.
Lucas Martin encases his housemade Boudin Blanc sausages.
The new dining room, entered through a passageway to the left of the host station, will accommodate 50 people. Well-insulated from the noise at the bar, it will have natural light from a wall of windows on one side, a bare-brick wall on another, and new carpeting. There will be seating for 18 more at the bar and for 12 outside on a covered patio: in all, more than double the current seating. The original kitchen was designed for two people cooking, with Lucas and Karen the sole chefs. It was impossible to fit in a third person. The new kitchen plan is double that size, opening out to both bar and dining room, accommodating two people on the hot side and two more in the pantry, with a lot more refrigeration. Karen will also have a new convection
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â&#x20AC;˘ 43
Sebastopol
Persimmon arugula salad with pomegranate and pecans.
oven with a speed rack for baking pastries for both the restaurant and catering. Behind the kitchen is an area devoted exclusively to catering operations. Right now, Lucas and Karen can cater small events, from 10 to 12 people.The new space will allow for a dedicated catering chef and capacity to prepare for much larger events. It should be fully operating by early summer. To source fresh produce for the menu, Lucas works with Paula at GreenLeaf, a distributor of local and sustainable farm products representing 15 organic small
Karen Martin plates up grilled Monterey Bay sardine with toasted faro.
farms. GreenLeaf picks up at the farms and delivers the same day to the restaurant. Lucas used to travel to Marin twice a week, but really likes the great selection and convenience of working with GreenLeaf. Humboldt Creamery provides the ice cream that Karen uses in her desserts. The delicious bread, beloved by loyal K&L patrons, will continue to be provided by Full Circle Baking Co. in Penngrove. The new bar will have its own menu, offering smaller plates with more ethnic influences in the $5 to $8 range, like soft pretzels, scotch eggs, porkbelly sliders 44 â&#x20AC;˘ winter 2013
and poutine (a Canadian classic dish of French fries and fresh cheese curds with oxtail gravy). A glass-cased oyster bar will offer four to five different choices plus three different tartares. The main menu will also be available in the bar. When asked what he’d be serving this winter, now that the weather has turned cool, Lucas said: “Cassoulet will make its way back onto the menu; red wine-braised short ribs with barley risotto, five-hour lamb leg with ricotta gnocchi, and, of course, all the housemade charcuterie,” he said. “Right now we have a chicken liver and bacon terrine, rabbit pâté with pistachios, and a smoked cotto salami. We also just added a house-made corned beef tongue Reuben on rye. Salads will include persimmon and arugula with pecans and pomegranate seeds, crushed kale and butternut squash, Brussels sprouts with shaved Joe Matos St. George cheese and pine nuts.” Familiar standards like Caesar salad and – my personal favorites – French onion soup and Steak Frites (mesquite grilled rib eye steak accompanied by irresistible French fries) will still be on the menu this winter, too. With the great food, warmth, and personality that these two restaurants offer, we can look forward to a cozy winter in downtown Sebastopol. Zazu Restaurant + Farm #150 The Barlow 6770 McKinley St., Sebastopol 707-523-4814 www.zazukitchen.com
K&L Bistro 119 South Main St., Sebastopol 707-823-6614 www.klbistro.com b
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Gateways to one of Bodega Bay’s Least Known Beaches
P
By Nathan Wright | Photos by Sarah Bradbury
innacle Gulch and Shorttail Gulch are not intended to be secret. Even so, the two Bodega Bay hiking trails are widely known by Sonoma County Regional Parks staff for being unknown – short treks to a beautiful stretch of beach that goes unnoticed by most, even on days when the better-known beaches are packed. “In the past few years, I’ve never once seen dozens of people out there on any one instance,” Sonoma County Regional Parks Ranger Jeff Taylor said. “There are very few people out
46 • winter 2013
there, even on a sunny Saturday or Sunday.” The trails – and the beach-line they provide access to – are relatively unknown because they are tucked inside the residential Bodega Harbor Development. Without knowledge of the trailheads, visitors pass right by them on their way north to neighboring Doran Beach. “It’s an unintentional secret, and that’s part of its charm,” Regional Parks spokesperson Meda Freeman said. “You can go there and know it’s going to be fairly secluded. You’re not going to have a big crowd out there.You’ll
have a more solitary experience on the beach.” The Regional Parks team is hardly trying to keep it a secret. It’s an easy recommendation by Freeman and Taylor, and they’ll even provide directions – and they’re quite simple. Take Highway 1 north, but before reaching the Doran Beach entrance, take a left on Harbor Way, and follow the signs. After navigating a few blocks of homes, the Pinnacle Gulch trailhead sonoma discoveries
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appears. Likely the parking lot will be empty, but a Regional Parks display board and a bathroom provide the hiker with the sense of familiarity that comes from a county-maintained park and trail system. One can’t see the ocean, but the sounds of wildlife and the smell of saltwater waft over the hills, enticing the hiker onward. And so the hike begins. The trail winds down a gulch: gentle, downward switchbacks lined by a moss-covered wooden railing. The descent isn’t steep or long, and soon the hiker is following a flat trail with hills rising on either side, the sky looming large overhead. And then comes the final ridge, followed by sandy beach and, ultimately, water as far as the eye can see. There the hiker is presented with a choice: Enjoy the ocean and head back the same way; or turn up the beach, hike a short distance, and return via the Shorttail Gulch
trail. The five-minute beach walk isn’t recommended at high tides. Shorttail, unlike Pinnacle, has no parking lot or bathrooms at the trailhead. To fetch one’s car, the hiker must navigate a short walk along paved streets through the Bodega Harbor Development. In all, the loop totals a bit more than 2 miles.
48 • winter 2013
“It’s a nice little loop,” Freeman said. “It’s a little more rugged than Doran Beach, and not as crowded. It’s a great Bodega Bay experience.”
Caryl Hart, the Director of Sonoma County Regional Parks, said the trails – and the region – help define Sonoma County as a whole. “I think that’s really what makes Sonoma County special is to have that awe-inspiring, beautiful coastline,” she said. “Bodega Bay is such a beautiful, rich natural resource.”
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Looking for more places to explore? The Sonoma County coastal zone has plenty. Here’s a look at 10 more hikes along the coast and short distances inland.
Austin Creek Trail/Gilliam Creek Trail Description: Tucked behind Armstrong Woods, the Austin Creek State Recreation Area offers 4-mile and 8mile loops of rugged, remote trails. Type of Park: State Park Difficulty: Strenuous. The shorter loop has an 800-foot elevation gain; the longer has 1,000. Be prepared to climb hills. Dogs: No Find out more: http://www.parks.ca.gov (search for Austin Creek Trail, Gilliam Creek Trail)
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10 More Hikes Bodega Head Trail
Description: The trail meanders along the bluffs above the rocky shores and the crashing waves–a popular whalewatching route in the spring. The length is about two miles, but it’s really up to hikers or walkers to decide how far they’d like to explore before returning to the parking lot. Type of Park: State Park Difficulty: Leisurely. The trail is fairly flat despite the hills. Dogs: No Find out more: http://www.parks.ca.gov (search for Bodega Head)
Kortum Trail Description: The trail begins at Wright’s Beach and continues all the way to the hills above Goat Rock. It’s about eight miles from start to finish in this there-and-back trail, so hikers can choose how far they’d like to go before heading back to the car. Find the trailhead off the dirt parking lot above the campground. Type of Park: State Park Difficulty: Leisurely to Moderate, depending on the distance you decide to go. Dogs: No Find out more: You’ll find reference to the trail on http://www.parks.ca.gov, but you’re likely better off using a search engine (i.e, Google) for hike details than from independent sites like bahiker.com.
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Red Hill Trail
5
Sea Ranch Access Trail
Description: You may hear this referenced as the Pomo Canyon Trail, but many simply refer to it as the Red Hill Trail. Whatever the official name may be, it’s the favorite of many area hikers. Find the trailhead across the highway from the Shell Beach parking lot. Expect to climb hills – and to be treated to views of the coastline and Russian River Valley. Type of Park: State Park Difficulty: Moderate to Strenuous. This is definitely a hike, not a walk. Most regular hikers will say the hike isn’t difficult; those who hike rarely may find the hills a challenge. Dogs: No Find out more: Search for it on Everytrail.com or search for it on your favorite search engine; it’s featured on many hiking websites.
Description: More walks than hikes, the Regional Park system offers six short trails to the beaches along Sea Ranch. Shell Beach is the furthest from the parking lot at .65 miles, while Stengel Beach is only a .12-mile trek. Type of Park: Regional Park Difficulty: Leisurely/Moderate. Short distances, but there are stairs down to the coast. Dogs: Yes, if on a 6-foot (or shorter) leash. Find out more: http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov (search for Black Point Sea Ranch Access Trail) sonoma discoveries
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Gualala Essence
Kruse Rhododendron Loop Trail
Description: Don’t expect the Rhododendrons to be in bloom – that starts in
Salt Point Trail
7
Description: Explore the bluffs and coastline of Salt Point State Park, one of
www.annapoliswinery.com ~ 707-886-5460
the Sonoma Coast’s most accessible coastal areas. The hike to Stump Beach Cove is 2.5 miles, but hikers looking for more can make a 6-mile trek to Fish Mill Cove or a 10mile trek to Horseshoe Cove. Bathrooms and beach parking lots are closed for the winter, but hikers may still hike out and enjoy the beach. Type of Park: State Park Difficulty: Leisurely to Moderate. The trails are flat, so any difficulty comes from how much distance you plan for the trip. Dogs: No Find out more: http://www.parks.ca.gov (search for Salt Point Trail)
Bird Walk Coastal Trail
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Description: Adjacent to Doran Beach, the Bird Walk Coastal Trail provides some of the region’s best bird-watching opportunities in a short 1.2-mile stretch through the salt water marsh. Type of Park: Regional Park Difficulty: Leisurely. After a short rise from the parking lot to the trail, it’s all flat. Dogs: Yes, if on a 6-foot (or shorter) leash. Find out more: http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov
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mid-April – but you’ll enjoy a look at the winter months in the coastal forest. The loop is 2.25 miles with a 200-foot elevation gain and crosses the Chinese and Phillips gulches. The State Park system closes bathrooms and parking lots for the winter, but hikers may still access and enjoy the trails. Type of Park: State Park Difficulty: Moderate—not long, but you will climb hills. Dogs: No Find out more: http://www.parks.ca.gov (search for Kruse Rhododendron State Reserve)
(search Bird Walk Coastal Trail)
Fort Ross Trail Description: A quick, half-mile round trip to the Fort Ross Cove. Hikers looking
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to stretch their legs can extend the walk north along park bluffs and south along the coast. There’s also a 4-mile loop to the Reef Point Campground. The Fort Ross parking lot and facilities are closed on weekdays during the winter, but hikers can still park outside the gates and hike the trails. Type of Park: State Park Difficulty: Leisurely. Enjoy a quick walk along the historic area and explore, if you get the itch. Dogs: No Find out more: http://www.parks.ca.gov (search Fort Ross Trail)
Stillwater Cove Regional Park Trails
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Description: 3.19 miles of trails winding along creeks and through canyons. Along the way the explorer can follow a side trail to the old Fort Ross Schoolhouse. Type of Park: Regional Park Difficulty: Moderate. Hills and distance make for an enjoyable workout. Dogs: Yes, if on a 6-foot (or shorter) leash. Find out more: http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov (Search for Stillwater Cove Regional Park) 50 • winter 2013
Winter Hiking Safety Tips
Hiking trails throughout the Sonoma Coastal zone are open year-around, but caution and preparedness are always recommended. Sonoma County Regional Park Ranger Jeff Taylor offers a list of recommendations for any hiker planning on bundling up and heading to the coast for a winter hike. • Know the route ahead of time. Check the website for trail details, or make a call to the Regional or State park offices to understand if any trail conditions may throw a wrench in your plans. • Tell someone where you’re going – even if there’s a group of you going. “Tell a friend or family member when you’re leaving, and when you’re due back,” said Taylor. “Don’t rely solely on your cell phone.” • Check the weather and tides. “If the tide is rising, be very careful,” said Taylor. • Dress in layers to maintain your body temperature. • Keep your dog on a leash at all times – especially when near the surf. • Keep an eye on small children, and never take your eyes off the ocean. • Bring sunscreen and food. If you become stranded and you need to wait for help, you may need extra food.
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Follow the Birds By Jess Poshepny Photos by Sarah Bradbury
o me, wintertime in Sonoma County is about snuggling up by the fire with a nice warm cup of cocoa and a good book.Though, once in a while, I prefer to bundle up and head to the coast for an afternoon of beauty. In light of the recent excitement celebrating the 50th anniversary of Alfred Hitchcock’s “The Birds” being filmed in Bodega Bay in 1963, I decided to take a trip to the Sonoma Coast and see what the fuss was all about – and it was there I immersed myself in the culture of the coast. Really, all I had to do was ‘follow the birds.’ I started out on Highway 12 toward Sebastopol and onto Bodega Highway until I came upon the one-block town of Bodega (not to be mistaken with Bodega Bay) heading toward the famous Potter School, where Hitchcock filmed the scene of children running down the hill after being attacked by the birds. The schoolhouse sits atop a short hill behind the St. Theresa of Avila Church on Bodega Lane. Amazing: It appears almost identical to what it looked like in the film 50 years ago: beautifully spooky. While this is a site to see, for sure, do not expect to tour the property or the home: it’s a private residence. While many of the travel sites suggest it is a museum, it is not (anymore). Definitely stop and take your photo in front of it, though. When I stood there to take one of my own to commemorate the experience, many others posed there, too, getting as close as they could to the front gate. 52 • winter 2013
Down the street at the Bodega Country Store, the love of birds is hugely apparent – from the looping movie in the corner and Hitchcock posters hung on the walls (many with cobwebs) to the movie memorabilia for sale and even a cardboard cutout of Hitchcock himself out front, covered with black crows, waiting for yet another photo shoot. It is incredible how, after 50 years, Bodega still celebrates its fame collectively and how so many still flock to the town from all over the country to check it out. The small town flair proves to be solid by the funkiness of the Country Store, the historic roadhouse across the street called the Casino Bar and Grill, and even a children’s swing set covered in plastic blackbirds in the open lot in the center of town and a phone booth similar to the one that Tippi Hedren hid in during an attack in the movie. What funky small town would be complete without a shop that sold a little bit of everything? A box of old matchbooks … yes, please! $5, even better! Tea sets: chipped or charming? The Potter School in Bodega. This is a store where the phrase “another man’s junk… ” was born. Sea Gull Antiques is a place so eager to capitalize on the visitors’ love for “The Birds” that, aside from its name, next to dusty old cardboard boxes of baseball cards and shelves of vintage cameras and cigar pipes sits an array of plastic birds one can take home to add to a collection. I passed, though, since my obsession is not quite that deep. I did leave with a cool vintage teapot, however. Getting back on Bodega Highway heading toward the right turn onto Highway 1, I made my way along the coast and into Bodega
Bay to the Tides Restaurant for one of my faducive to those following the Weight Watchers vorite stops to take in the view while enjoying diet (brilliant). Dine there or take some of a nice warm bowl of clam chowder. I glanced Melissa Freeman’s home-cooked meals to go. across the street to the gas station; and though Nearby is one of my favorite places to stop on it’s much different than the one depicted in the the coast: Candy and Kites. For me, being out at movie 50 years before, I chuckled at the ignothe coast reminds me of being a child – when rance that was portrayed by the scared man laughter and fun were the only things on the pumping gasoline and forgetting what he was agenda. With the wind usually in full force durdoing and then lighting a match. Things are ing the winter, flying a kite is easy. There are all much different now, of course – people do not sorts of shapes and sizes from which to choose. even consider smoking and pumping gas, and My personal choice? One with a long, long tail the Tides Restaurant that Melanie (Tippi Hethat will create a twister in the sky. I recommend dren) and Mitch (Rod Taylor) met in is much flying down at Schoolhouse Beach where the Birdland, Bodega’s own museum different as well, although you can still sit at a beach is longer and running with a kite is safer dedicated to Hitchcock’s “The Birds.” lovely table by the window and see many of and away from cliffs. those “vicious” birds while you eat. Seagulls are Not the kite-flying type? Drive down to Bodega not quite the scariest creatures but I do chuckle when I think of Head to hike or birdwatch and explore. To get to the west side of how terrified I was watching the film back when I was a little kid; Bodega Harbor, continue north of town to Eastshore Road and and now each time I visit the beach, the only feeling the seagulls turn left. At the bottom of the hill turn right on Westside bring me is pure annoyance (or fear of the occasional dropRoad to drive around the Harbor to Hole-in-the-Head ping from being in the wrong place at the wrong time, pond (the pond at Campbell Cove) and Bodega Head. although I hear it is a sign of good luck). This time of year, you can walk to the top of one of Making my way along the coastline, The Birds the cliffs and peer down to the water to discover You can Café offers a prime location to sit outside on pica whale or hike over the rocks and down the nic tables and soak up the bay view. People sit at a lovely table by cliffs to find some of the amazing birds mipassing by swarmed the patio and picnic grating along the coast. tables while enjoying their food, reThe Madrone Audubon Socithe window and see many sembling seagulls, themselves, in a ety organizes many birding trips way. The café’s menu is seasonal to Bodega Bay, including of those “vicious” birds while you eat. with offerings even conwalkabouts, field trips
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and beginner’s bird walks. Bodega Head is The Christmas Bird Count Month is an a very popular place to birdwatch. At exciting time for bird watchers. From Dec. Bodega Head, there are always some birds 14 until Jan. 5 individuals and teams go out on the nearby rocks (Western Gulls, Black to their favorite places to compile data for Oystercatchers, Brandt's and Pelagic Corthe CBC. Kirks said their chapter has a morants and perhaps Black Turnstones and post-count dinner where they gather all the Surfbirds), but only an experienced birddata and fellow birders get together to watcher with a telescope will see much share their sightings and information. Also, more than that, explained Volunteer Helen the Western Sonoma County Christmas Kochenderfer. Ferruginous Hawks can be Bird Count is held on Sunday, Dec. 29, seen along the coastline. You might see from dawn to dusk. Black-crowned night-herons at the pond. After an afternoon of roaming the coast You can see ducks, scoters, loons and and working up an appetite on the beach grebes in the harbor from Campbell Cove and the trails, I got back on Bodega Highand other places around the harbor. way and headed for Bohemian Highway. To get to Hole in the Head, stay straight I always love to finish off my beach trip at just before the very tight right turn up the Negri’s in Occidental to warm up with hill to Bodega Head and park to walk over their house-made minestrone soup. Nothtoward the pond (literally a hole in Bodega ing like my joyful experience with HitchHead) and out on the boardwalk to catch cock and sharing my afternoon following a better view. in the footsteps of Tippi and Rod but this December is Christmas Count Month, is one place you will not want to miss. when you can discover more than After the walk in the sand and feet all 100 species of birds along the coast. covered in sand, hair messy with the beach The Madrone Audubon Society is smell and windblown, Negri’s is the only a great source for birdwatching and place where I go to feel at home, cominformation. President Susan Kirks fortable and relaxed.Their minestrone was thrilled to share the sighting soup is the best in the county: made of a rare bird – the Blue Footed the old-fashioned way (or like Bodega Booby – and said they will grandma used to make it) with the Country be looking for it during cheese rind and potato peels, it’s Store the coming months. While www.bodegastore.com rich, warming and hearty. Kirks herself has yet to While my friends – the seagdiscover this bird, she ulls – are long gone and out Candy & Kites and fellow birders have of sight, this is the perfect www.candyandkites.com heard it can be seen ending to a wonderful flying near and around winter afternoon along Casino Bar and Grill Bodega Head. the Sonoma Coast. www.thecasinobarandgrill.com Negri’s Original Occidental www.negrisrestaurant.com
Potter School (private home) www.bodegaschool.com 17110 Bodega Lane, Bodega, CA 94922
The Birds Café: 707-875-2900 Madrone Audobon Society audubon.sonoma.net Tom McCuller, 707-546-1812 (mid-week); Bill Doyle (Saturday), 707-483-8773; Society, 707-546-7492. 54 • winter 2013
Ad Index
Antique Society .............................................8 Art Galleries ..................................................15 Erickson Fine Art Hammerfriar Hand Fan Museum Healdsburg Center for the Arts Nichibei Potters Sebastopol Gallery Bear Republic ................................................11 Big John’s Market..........................................56 Boat House Restaurant..................................13 Costeaux French Bakery................................2 Cricklewood Restaurant ................................13 Duncans Mills.................................................7 Antiquarian Cape Fear Christopher Queen Gallery Mr. Trombley’s Tea Pig Alley Sophie’s Cellars Garcia River Casino .......................................51 Graton Gallery ...............................................16 Garrett’s Hardware/The Gift Horse ...............10 Geyserville .....................................................4 Bosworth & Sons Geyserville Inn North County Properties Gualala...........................................................50 Annapolis Winery Gualala Arts Center Timber Cove Inn Hammerfriar ..................................................17 Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce .............11 Inn at the Tides..............................................9 K & L Bistro....................................................19 Korbel Champagne Cellars ...........................43 Leff Construction ...........................................45 Local Color ....................................................16 Merriam Vineyards.........................................20 Northwood Golf Course................................8 Purls of Joy ....................................................10 Ram’s Head Realty.........................................51 Ren Brown Gallery .........................................17 Rodney Strong Winery ..................................45 Russian River Wine Road ...............................2 Saint Dizier ....................................................20 Sebastopol Center for the Arts .....................16 Sebastopol Area ............................................44 Hook & Ladder Mom’s Apple Pie Thai Pot Sushi Tozai/Eight ...........................................9 Thankfully There’s Healdsburg ......................31 B Real Blair & Jerry’s Wine Framing Arts Healdsburg Chamber of Commerce Pizzando Tallulah Taverna Sofia Zizi Trione Winery ................................................33 Villaggio Dental/Dr Leach .............................12 Windsor Town Green.....................................37 Atrellis My Chic Boutique Patterson Pub Wine Emporium.............................................19
Ma rk W est Spr ings Rd
Armstron g Woods Rd .
Cazadero Hwy.
Sonoma County
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