Yelkenci Journal

SS 2018 JOURNAL

S H R U G T H E W E I G H T O F F YO U R S H O U L D E R S

GHOST BLAZER

FASHION FACTORY FROM FABRIC TO TAILORING, FASHION IS DESIGNED AND PRODUCED UNDER THE SAME ROOF.

Y E L K E N C I VA L U E S 1. PROFICIENCY Expert is someone who has a lot to say on a very few topic.

2. CRAFTMANSHIP Artisanship is the ability of comprehending past, present and the future.

3. RESPONSIBILITY Responsibility is not only keeping promises to others but also; to ourselves too.

4. FLEXIBILITY Before wisdom arrives, we complain everything. When it finally arrives, we start to adapt.

5. INNOVATIVENESS Do not dwell on the past that today is the day to make a new statement.

6. RELIABILITY Sincerity is through the eyes, integrity is by the promises kept.

7. HAPPINESS Happiness is when your thinkings, doings, sayings meet in a perfect harmony.

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Design When staff and target audience are in sync; brand, staff and client end up satisfied.

Made to Measure With MTM, you will be able to customise your garment.

05 08

Innovation Production quality is always improved to create the lightest blazer with a formal look.

Traditional Craftsmanship Revolution of organic fashion sets a bridge between traditional practice and today’s high-end technology.

10 Ghost Blazer SHRUG THE WEIGHT OFF YOUR SHOULDERS

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OFB Imagine a blazer made of only fabric and thread and of %100 natural material.

Production High-end technology meets fashion.

Wall Sectoral projections from our professional accompanies.

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Fabrics & Trims Form, durability, aesthetics and even the marketed value of a blazer is decided after its fabric and material.

News Latest news from Yelkenci...

We welcome you to experience our latest bulletin.

Design Brands are reaching out for their goals with the suitable team.

As innovative management approach suggests, target audience of brands defines employee profiles. Impact of communication speed on our tastes and fashion industry as a whole is profound.

Brands need staff, not just who can smell the air but also can adjust to this flow of innovations smoothly, so that brands themselves can come out on top.

When staff and target audience are in sync; brand, staff and client end up satisfied.

Trends of the Season • Light and soft blazers is still trending by leaps.

• Although lapels were produced in narrowing sizes for seasons, in most recent seasons they’ve been widening.

• As effect of minimalism is visible on the exterior design of blazers, for interiors it’s much richer and brave colors with patterns.

• Most of the blazer collections still come in micro and checkered patterns. Blazers that are made out of coat fabric are also rising as a new trend.

• Long double-breasted coats with wide lapels are almost seen in every brand’s collection.

• While classic suit vests are losing popularity, lapel vests are also trending by rapidly.

• Along with here-to-stay trend of slim fits, pleated trousers and elastic baggy designs are also looking for a place to stay in the market.

• After being seasonal favorite for the recent seasons, woven bomber jacket is still saving its place in collections.

04 Design

Fabric is the core of a design.

Fabric is the essential piece of a design that brings it out and gives it a voice.

Blend ratio of wool, cotton, linen, silk and cashmere defines the character of a design.

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Innovation Traditional Sartorial Methods and Innovative Solutions Production and craftsmanship methods, which helps materializing the design and improving the product, should be developed constantly.

A formal look that weighs and wears thinner is now on popular demand. We’re always improving our production quality to create the lightest blazer with a formal look.

Lighter Blazer Innovation!

We carry the blazer on our shoulders, neck and back.

A blazer's placing angle on shoulders, neck and back not only determines how the blazer will fit or cover the upper body the way it should cover; it also determines how the body will be carrying the weight of the blazer.

Near-arm part of shoulders and back of the neck are most likely to get tired easily and a constant-weighting blazer will eventually give pains.

As a results of the efforts made by our skilled and innovative pattern

YELKENCİ JOURNAL / SS 18

makers along with product developing engineers we’ve accomplished to distribute most the weight from the shoulders and neck to back and near-back parts of shoulders.

Our craftsmanship takes account of how our body actually moves, carries out the weight, feels, resists, and gets tired and as a result of our practice, blazers will feel %30 lighter.

Our engineering accomplishment favors the rising trend of formal yet light blazers, and the result is: even lighter blazers.

Innovation 05

Made with Love Why MTM? Nowadays every consumer wants to receive the customizations ordered by luxury retailers and appreciate the prestige of the personalized experience.

At this point the emphasis on made to measure gives retailers the opportunity of being perceived as a brand of mass luxury by their customers and with customer engagement it will enhance customer loyalty.

For retailers, MTM allows to extend their customer base, strengthen their client relationships and gain more consumer insights through this experience.

How MTM Works A made to measure service begins with taking the customer’s personal measurements, while also understanding his style, needs and preferences. It starts with a detailed and fully co-operative process in which the customer decides on what kind of base pattern best fit their measurements and style.

Customising the design to fit to the customer perfectly is how made to measure tailoring takes shape.

With MTM, you will be able to customise your garment by picking your collar type, number of buttons, pocket style, vent options, trouser pleats, cuffs, linings and much more.

By going through a comprehensive checklist you can detail your made to measure suit to your preference.

In this system each customer can then add their individual style and be involved in the process of producing something special for themself.

06 Made to Measure

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Made to Measure

MADE WITH LOVE, MADE TO MEASURE With Made to Measure concept, sales partners also benefit the service as becoming an elegant boutique. Ordering a custom made item has traditionally been an option only for bespoke and couture customers. Creating individualized patterns can be time-consuming and expensive. But not everyone can get there, or wants to devote time on vacation for fittings in the hope that the finished product will meet their expectations.

Customers now have the option to completely personalise their suit, choosing from a wide range of fabrics, features and details, in addition to having it custom fitted.

YELKENCÄ° JOURNAL / SS 18

Made to Measure 07

Traditional World is rediscovering the sartorial methods.

High consumption introduced us to fast production but now it’s setting back to traditional practice again. This, one might say, the revolution of organic fashion sets a bridge between traditional practice and today’s high-end technology and this bridge of production is a point where past and future meets.

THE FULL CANVAS SUIT Quite simply, a Full Canvas suit is one of true quality.

Traditionally, these suits are constructed with a layer of horsehair canvas under a wool fabric shell. This beautifully made canvas holds the shape of your suit and most importantly, keeps it from sagging or deforming, think of it as the foundation of your ensemble. This robust canvas is then cut to the blazer’s shape and the wool is stitched to it. Over time, as you wear the blazer, this clever canvas allows the suit fabric to mould to your body slowly forming a faultless fit. Longevity is achieved through disturbing tension at stress points, i.e. shoulders, elbows, allowing your suit breathe and you to move freely.

THE HALF CANVAS SUIT As the name suggests, half the canvas of your full option. Half Canvas suits have canvas material running through the chest and lapel of the blazer only. Past that, the rest of the blazer is fused. Don’t let this put you off. The benefits of this of suit are usually a lower cost than your full option and less bubbling problems that you may find in a fused suit adding to its lifespan.

The canvassing ensures structure in the upper part of your blazer allowing it to drape naturally across the chest, rather than appearing stiff and lifeless much like many fused blazers do.

08 Traditional Craftsmanship

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Craftsmanship Full Canvas Traditional handrafting here depicts the blazer in the strict sense. Under favour of full canvas that embraces the whole body, it will stay strong and eye-catching for many years to come. High-end of blazer production technique. Traditional, long-wearing and lasting. Full Canvas will preserve the blazer from sagging and deforming for many years.

Half Canvas A blazer so chic and enduring, in perfect shape with high level labour and interior trimmings. Handcrafted canvas on the chest and shoulders makes chest and shoulder parts last for years undeformed. Delivering a true blazer experience for you. Without deforming the natural touch of the fabric, you’ll stay classy as the blazer endures for many years.

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Traditional Craftsmanship 09

Cover Subject A special blazer that presents lightness, comfort and chic.

It’s designed for casual needs yet it preserves the formal look.

Innovative in all ways- carefully engineered interior, craftsmanship that delivers comfort, a pattern performance that distributes the weight from shoulders to back so it feels even lighter.

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PATTERN For a blazer to weight less, it takes more than delivering comfort. Right shapes speak of your style, but it shouldn’t limit your movement at the same time. It’s a crucial detail that weight of the blazer distributed on the back instead of the shoulders for a blazer to feel lighter.

FABRIC Weight of the blazer alone does not guarantee the light and comfy feeling.

Comfortableness is a feeling, and the best way to deliver it is the fabric.

When creating a light and comfy blazer, weaving style, hand feeling and raw material of the fabric should be determined correctly.

TRIMS Light blazer recalls of less material on the inside. But less material won’t help to achieve lightness alone. Features of fabric should determine the choose of material; soft and natural materials should be preferred.

CRAFTSMANSHIP Inside materials of a blazer usually form the shape, cover the defects of craftsmanship and prevent deforming in time. Less and lighter material or lighter fabric should mean enhanced and detailed craftsmanship. Pattern, fabric and material practice comes alive in the hands of detailed craftsmanship, then a lighter, comfy and formal blazer is created.

SHRUG THE WEIGHT OFF YOUR SHOULDERS

GHOST BLAZER

OFB

Only Fabric Blazer Project

Fabric and thread only. %100 natural.

Imagine a blazer made of only fabric and thread and of %100 natural material.

Beyond the lightness and comfortableness, a blazer only the most talented dares to create.

Only Fabric Blazer is a project that sparked out as a dream with no finish line assigned further yet. And the reason is, we aim to discover as much as we can throughout this process.

We’re pursuing what’s natural…

12 OFB / Only Fabric Blazer Project

Our main goal is to create a unique 100% natural, fabric and thread only blazer that still delivers the formal look.

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Fabrics & Trims Better material, more stylish designs!

Field is coming up with new materials daily. New manufacturers, new technics and products are initiated in the market constantly. A good producer should follow the flow and trends and guides clients as so.

Design starts with the fabric

Range of material should always be developed and standards of material quality should never go unchecked.

Fabric determines all; design, craftsmanship, target audience, price.

Our expertise is buying the right fabric from the right supplier at the right time for the right collection.

A Team of Design: Fabric and material Classic or modern. Whatever you create, fabric and material sets the standard and decides whether the outcome is one of a kind.

Form, durability, aesthetics and even the marketed value of a blazer is decided after its fabric and material.

It’s almost impossible to come up with a groundbreaking design with limited fabric and range of materials.

It’s vital to follow up with the backstage heroes of the sector, which are material producers, to get ahead of your business.

Defining the excellence of a product asks for being strongly familiar with the material used and predicting the harmony with the product and craftsmanship.

We're in collaboration with world's leading fabric brands.

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Fabrics & Trims 13

Perfect

BELT SEWING

METHODS PERFECTED BY OVER 100 YEARS OF SARTORIAL LEGACY AND 45 YEARS OF YELKENCI EXPERIENCE

570 Operation No:

Operation Name

SLEEVE INSERTATION Machine in use

Sleeve Insertation Machine

Thread to use and sewing type 150 / Single stitch

METHOD GO-THROUGH 1. Jacket is placed on the machine; sleeves are crossed on the top of the jacket.

Machine in use

Thread to use and sewing type

Düz Dikiş Makinesi

Single stitch / 5 stitch steps per cm

METHOD GO-THROUGH 1. This operation is the process of sewing the right and left piece of the belt, which is combined with the belt lining in the preparation band, to the waist of the body.

2. Since the right and left waıstband pieces are joined to the waistband lining as a whole in the preparation band, the right and left waistband pieces are cut and then separated from each other.

3. The right leg of the trouser sewing starts from the center of the back and is sewn towards the right piece of fly. When the right stitch comes to the right piece of fly, the right zipper teeth is tilted towards the fly and the stitch is continued.

size; if the waistband stretches then waist measurement increases.

9. The waistband should be stretched very slightly, the leg should be left as released. For this reason ,it should definitely be stitched without an ease.

4. The left side of the leg stitch starts from the left fly. The end of the sewing on the preparation band is placed 2 mm forward (body direction) of the stitch that joins with the left part of the body.

Note: On the Chequered products, it is also important to match the checks.While sewing the chequered fabrics the left of fly should be placed on the right part of front and it needs to be chalked from the closest check to the waist. The sign is also taken from the back crotch and the waist is attached to the right leg. Waistband insertation should be completed with the same operation on the left. The bottom line of the perforation innerwall is followed during the sewing process. It needs to be controlled whether the checks are matched at the crotch after the waistband is inserted.

5. Firstly, left side of fly’s front is sewn then it overlaps with stitching.

2. Jacket size is turned inside out, crossed sleeves and stitches are placed on the sewing plate.

3. Right sleeve is sewn from jacket’s front to back; left sleeve is sewn from back to front.

6. The point of waistband should lay on the fly where the other preliminary sewing is finished. The stalk is also sewn up to the middle of the back.

7. The sewing operation must follow the bottom line of the perforated part of the waistband. It should be sewn properly as per curve of the waistline.

4. Notches are matched together and sewn spaced about 1 cm apart.

5. When sewing, following lower sleeve to first notch part, 2 mm ease needs to be given .

8. When attaching the waistband, waistband and the main fabric should not be stretched. If the body stretches, then pants increase in

6. After 3 notches on the sleeve, sewing process is initiated according to ease standards.

180 Operation No:

Operation Name

7. Sleeve notch points can be found on the front sleeve, back part and shoulder seam point.

QUALITY CHECKPOINTS ANALYSIS * While Inserting the waistband, waist shouldn’t have any small puckering.

* Sewing the waistband or the body as stretched. * Too much ease on the sewn parts.

QUALITY CHECKPOINTS ANALYSIS

* At the points where the waistband meets with the zip on each side, inequality on the front part due to the uneven stitching on the front line.

PREPERATION OF SEWING PHASE * Sewing starts at under arm after matching the notches.

ON MATERIAL * Thread for the stitching should match fabric as stated.

ON MACHINE * Tension of the thread is checked. * Presser foot, transporter and stitch guide etc. is adjusted according to thickness of the material.

WHEN SEWING * Avoid tensile and contract when sewing. * Notches needs to match while sewing.

14 Production

* The right zipper teeth is sewn in the wrong direction.

* Not placing the point of the waistband 2 mm away from the point where the body and the left fly; therefore the seam allowance where it turns in or too much seam allowance .

* Stitching distance as 5 stitch per cm is not followed properly.

* Not matching of size and length on the waist and the body.

* Waist and body to come up in different sizes.

* No check matching on the chequered products.

YELKENCİ JOURNAL / SS 18

Production Operasyon No:

Operation Name

WE USE THE STATE-OF-THE-ART TECHNOLOGY FOR FASHION We have one of the most advanced fashion production line in Turkey. In order to improve our design and manufacturing capabilities, Yelkenci's technology kept up to date by following world trends in technology each year by our R&D department.

PRODUCTION OF A BLAZER TAKES MORE THAN 300 IDENTIFIED STEPS.

390 Operation No:

Operation Name

SEWING SLEEVE CORD Machine in use Chain sewing machine

METHOD GO-THROUGH 1. Mechanics staff organizes suitable ease adjustment according to fabric type for each part. After setting is done, chief and quality assurance team give approval for productionreadiness.

2. Sleeve is placed on the sewing plate as front of the fabric facing the plate.

from lower sleeve starting point to cord starting point. Sleeve cord is then sewn with 5 mm allowance.

6. The computer screen shows the completion points of the arm close ranges.

7. Sleeve and sleeve headroll should be sewn smoothly, without stretching.

3. Sleeve headroll is chosen according to pattern and size.

Operation Name

COLLAR CUTTING Machine & Equipments

Large saw, cutting table, steel cutting glove, needle, fabric colorcards, collar patterns, metal tongs, calculator, pen,

METHOD GO-THROUGH 1. The collar to be cut comes from press according to the order form serial number.

2. Collar and collar stands are separated by body size and serial number.

3. If the collar is chequered or striped, it is attached to the needle table. Checks and lines are followed.

4. Cutting process is done after strengthening the light and loose fabrics with interlining.

4. Right sleeve is placed above 1 cm apart from the upper sleeve suit notches and sewn with 5 mm seam allowance.

5. After checking the fabric chart, the felts to be sorted as per size and color.

5. For left sleeve, no sewing is done

6. According to the slope and height

231 Operation No:

of the collar, the cut is prepared by squeezing with lugs up to 15-20 plies.

7. Cutting is initiated. Steal cutting glove is worn and saw is run.

8. A pattern of the collar is placed on the collar and collar stand . The collor and collar stand pieces are clamped with the aid of a latch and cut from the end edges of the mould.

9. For the other models except for the shawl collar styles, interlinings for reinforcements are cut. It is placed on the pattern and clamped with the latch and cut from the end of the mould.

10. The cut collars are delivered to the preparation unit.

QUALITY CHECKPOINTS ANALYSIS PREPERATION OF SEWING PHASE * Sleeve headroll is placed on sleeve as stated. * Presser foot, transporter and stitch guides etc. is adjusted according to thickness of the material.

ON MACHINE * Needle thickness needs to be selected according to material.

ON MATERIAL * Thread should match fabric as stated. * For light colored pieces, white headroll is preferred. For darker colored pieces, normal colored headroll is preferred.

YELKENCÄ° JOURNAL / SS 18

WHEN SEWING * Avoid tensile and contract when sewing. * Sleeve headroll should be spaced about 5-6 mm apart from shoulder crown. * Fabric and sleeve headroll should lap over each other. * Ease points should stay under control and never be missed. * Sleeve and sleeve headroll should be sewn smoothly, without stretching . * Sleeve headrolland fabric should be in line and can never overbrim.

QUALITY CHECKPOINTS ANALYSIS * Before starting the cutting process,

* After the cutting process is completed, the

the style details on the work order are

dimensions and notches are controlled at

looked over.

the lower piece.

Production 15

Selected Fabric Collection Brand new fabric service from Yelkenci: This collection is a carefully chosen selection in means of seasonal trends, brands and target markets, from Europe’s 12 different and leading fabric mills is here for you to experience.

Finitura Felice Fabric Pattern Design Contest We’re discovering sectoral professionals and on-going college students with our seasonal design contest and recognizing these innovative achievements by including their designs in our collections.

Sergio Barone is fast pacing in retailing.

With Bulgaria, Russia and Lebanon store and wholesale showrooms initiated last year, Sergio Barone is planning America, Canada, Romania and Qatar store and wholesale showrooms this year.

Yelkenci is one of the most consistent and successful companies in Turkey for SEDEX and BSCI in terms of social compliance with a strengthening collaboration with these institutes.

YELKENCİ IS NOW EASIER FOR YOU TO REACH. We’re offering our services even faster and more effective in Europe office and agencies.

Our London office and Milano showroom is now open. Our Paris office is soon to be in service.

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Finitura Felice with outstanding designs and high quality fabrics woven in Biella, Italy is creating special collections for its customers, with in collaboration world’s leading fabric mills.

t 270 Weigh Width

160

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FA S H I O N FA C T O R Y

Wall Spring Summer 2018 Collection

The sociocultural inspirations and trends For the formal wear and tailoring collections, a step forward has been initiated in pursuit of high quality, materials and style. High twisted yarns stand out, throughout the whole collection, thanks to their lightness and performance. Presented in a rich variety of grains and compositions, these fabrics are ideal for the suit selection, along with wool/linen compositions, mohair (also available in pure mohair), cotton/ramie composition, these fabrics accentuate the spirit of summer. Nylon is blended with wool, while hybrids and casuals meet the demands of high-performance fabrics. Authentic textures for the jacket collection achieved by an analytical search for the perfect blends including the comeback of the seersuker. Lastly, stretch fabrics can be seen more frequently in a contemporary man’s wardrobe.

THE NEED TO CREATE Informal attire grows in popularity thanks to an upgrade in quality, but also to the less rigid designs in tailoring, inevitably bringing it closer to casual wear. The colours are intense and three-dimensional, ranging from classic shades, black and white to hues of red, bright blues and for jackets, a mix of vibrant tones weaved together. The effect is three-dimensional, bright and vivid, but also includes lighter shades. The Leno and Jacquard fabrics highlight the extensive know-how of our company, a leader in the interpretation of these refined compositions for men and genderless garments. The function of the jacket and blazer becomes more creative in a world that ranges from tailored jackets to informal street wear jackets.

TECHNICAL: THE EDGE BETWEEN CASUAL AND SARTORIAL A technical and active vibe in the creation of fabrics that become an integral part of an urban clothing collection, creating an alternative tendency in the way people dress, following formal and informal wear. Fabrics that meet the demands of a modern life, appropriate for every occasion, without being too exuberant. Parallel to our tailoring collection, enriched with stainproof and waterproof fabrics, available also in different blazers variations in numerous weights and compositions.

Chairman of Lanificio F.lli Cerruti

Yelkenci.com