ISSUE 1
PHE Beauty
JUNE
2019
1
INSIDE PHE... 4
Frank Body How these entrepreneurs used coffee to build a multi-million pound beauty empire.
16
billionaire BABY Discover how beauty mogul Kylie Jenner has been named the youngest ‘self-made’ billionaire by Forbes.
20
mICHAEL mYERS
20
Explore the breath-taking photography work of US born creative, Michael Myers.
31
PHE LOVES From fake tan to foundation, get a low down of the hottest drops in the beauty market right now.
34
Phe talks with... The owner of Sharpe Faces and all-round business babe, Jessica Richmond who tells us her journey to becoming an MUA.
16 2
PHE BEAUTY
40
10 decades of brow Fly back in time with Phe and discover 10 decades of brows, from the overplucked to bushy there’s a brow for everyone.
EDITor’s LETTER
H
i beauties, it is with great honour to introduce you all to the first print issue of Phe Beauty! After the digital success of Phe Beauty’s online edition in 2018, I decided it was time to branch out into print. I wanted to create a platform away from the screen, something more personal and tangible, something I could use to connect with beauty enthusiasts all over the globe. I’ve always had a real passion for beauty. I can still remember being a young girl and gazing at my mum in mirror as she enhanced her already beautiful face with makeup, longing for the day I could do the same. Watching my mum instantly ‘glow with confidence’ after she finished her beauty regime was when I knew makeup was a form of power and selfexpression. Phe Beauty has given me a platform to put my voice on the beauty industry, something I’ve dreamt of doing for so long. The aim throughout is to make beauty as much of an element of personal style as fashion is. Beauty IS fashion, it’s something as an individual we choose, something we use to express ourselves, our identities, personalities and most importantly, beauty is you. So please use Phe Beauty as a guide to all things glam. A platform for beauty lovers to keep up-to-date with latest trends, product reviews/releases, industry news, exclusive interviews, and so much more. I really hope you all enjoy, and I look forwards to seeing you in the next issue...
Follow my socials
Happy reading beauties,
Phe x
@phebeauty_ Sophie Hales (Phe) Chief Editor JUNE
2019
3
4
PHE BEAUTY
How frank body used coffee to build a multi-million pound beauty empire...
F
or billions of people across the world, coffee is revered as the perfect boost of morning energy. But for these entrepreneurial Australians, it has become the magic bean behind their all-natural skincare brand, frank body. Whilst most 20-year olds are spending their days on the sofa nursing a sore hangover or planning a year of backpacking around Thailand, Bree Johnson and Jess Hatzis were busy building their empire. After the Aussie duo met at university whilst studying for their journalism degrees. They wasted no time in setting up their communications agency, Willow and Blake, specialising in copywriting, editorial writing and campaign/brand development.
frank body The pair stumbled across the awardwinning ingredient almost by accident after Johnson’s partner and co-founder of frank body, Steve Rowley, noticed two women repeatedly coming into the cafÊ he owned in Melbourne and requesting the leftover coffee grinds to use as a body exfoliator at home. Queue moment! Jess and Bree began testing the coffee granules on themselves and instantly knew they were on to something.
JUNE
2019
5
With just a $10,000 investment in 2013 from the pair, Steve and their good friends Alex Boffa and Erika Geraerts, the frank body team was born. Their tight and self-funded budget meant the girls had to make a few business sacrifices. One of these included transforming their entire apartment into a small cosmetics factory for the brand. “We had coffee everywhere and it was a lot of late nights.” Johnson said during an interview with Whimn, in 2017. The team began working with a group of medical professionals, to understand why rubbing coffee into your skin in the shower has the power to magically vanish common complexion issues. The team became aware that caffeine is particularly effective when combined with the steam from hot water (to open pores) and the circular massage motions of scrubbing and buffing. They concluded that caffeine stimulates blood flow and increases circulation to reduce the appearance of cellulite, stretch marks, psoriasis, eczema, and other skin conditions. Transforming this knowledge into their first product, the £14 ‘Original Coffee Scrub’ which is now sold every 40 seconds across the globe.
6
PHE BEAUTY
Building the brand With a small investment and no marketing budget, frank body launched entirely through social media, relying heavily on Instagram and Facebook to grow their business. With the team’s creative journalistic and copy-writing backgrounds, they focused their messages to young women and developed a unique personified character that captures the voice and tone of their ideal audience.
This cheeky character ‘frank’ is used in every aspect of their branding, even including their simple yet effective packaging. “We wouldn’t have the business we have today had it not been for our ability to leverage platforms like Instagram and Facebook. We created a bold brand persona that resonated with consumers and to this day it is still the largest referrer of traffic to our website” Hatis told Forbes. The brand also used contemporary strategies such as ‘influencer marketing’ to help create brand awareness for franc body. They sent out invitations to key influencers they wanted to use as their ‘Product Ambassadors’.
Inviting the social media stars to test out their products and to post their results using the hashtags #thefrankeffect and #letsbefrank and tagging brand’s account @frankbody. “When we first launched, we sent product to a whole bunch of people we thought were influential – makeup artists, beauty bloggers – but our most important and valuable ambassadors are our customers. We love to hero them as much as we can,” explained Hatzis to Forbes.
JUNE
2019
7
8
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
9
Frankly a success story The brand also encouraged their everyday customers to share photos of themselves covered in the signature brown scrub on social media also using the branded hashtags which began a social media craze. With thousands of Instagram users posting pictures wearing the coffee scrub, it’s pretty pink packaging and also some pretty jaw dropping results from using the scrub. “About six months in we started receiving amazing before-and-after pictures from our customers who had been using our products to help with skin conditions and imperfections including dry skin, eczema, stretch marks, acne, and psoriasis,” cofounder Erika Geraerts, told Forbes during an interview in 2017. The frank body team now shares these photos on a dedicated feedback Instagram account, @frankfeedback. The consumer’s results really are incredible, particularly for a product that’s 100-percent natural and vegan. These results are living proof that the science behind their products really does work. The social media marketing strategy and response to the product was amazing and has now resulted in the brand capturing almost 700k followers and 80,000 visits per month to their website.
10
PHE BEAUTY
The sales of the brand have also rocketed, during its first year in 2013, frank body made over $3 million (UK). By 2017, sales hit over $22 million (UK) and in 2019, the brand now sells one product every 27 seconds. The success of frank body has allowed the team to develop a large range of skin products. While its Original Coffee Scrub remains the brand’s MVP (most valuable player) and has sold more than two million units in 149 different countries. The brand now sells a range of skin care for your face and body including additional scrubs, moisturisers, masks, oils, and even lip/cheek tints. All of which are $25 and only contain completely natural ingredients like macadamia oil, ethically sourced beeswax, charcoal, and (obviously) coffee. Frank’s official line on chemicals declares ‘no parabens, silicone, sulphates, mineral oil or glycols’ – a simple cocktail of natural, clean, safe and effective ingredients. Traditionally the products were only sold in Australia via the brands website, but since the rapid and growing brand success, you can now find frank body across the globe, both online AND instoreincluding large retailers such as Selfridges and ASOS.
JUNE
2019
11
PPhhee''ss RReevviieew w
Packaging When
receiving
my
Application scrub,
I
was
completely smitten by the pretty pink packaging with the words (“Guess what? You’ll be naked in one minute.”) Labelled across the front. The scrub comes in a waterproof, sealable bag which you are able to take into the shower with you and is easy to store away when you aren’t
I jumped straight in the shower and covered myself in a few handfuls of the brown stuff. (Beware, it’s about to get real messy). I decided to put frank to the test and focused the product on my problem areas (my scars and cellulite- don’t worry beauties, we all have it!) Once you apply, you should allow the scrub to dry to your skin for 10 minutes.
using it.
Smell
results
Yep you guessed it…coffee!
I began using the scrub 2-3
When opening the packet,
times a week like advised by
it was like opening the
frank. Over next the month or
door to my local Starbucks.
so, I noticed a real difference
Although, I’m not a coffee
in
lover myself, I do have to
concerns. In particularly, with
say I quite enjoyed the
a deep red scar I have on my
smell. Now, of course the
leg. After using the scrub my
smell was strong, it is coffee
scar began to look less red
we’re talking about here,
and pigmented which made
but it was by no means off-
me
putting or too overpowering.
considering laser removal for
my
really
skin
complexion
impressed,
after
the scar for quite some time.
Overall Rating Overall, the scrub is a fantastic exfoliator for the body – its simple and affordable formula is incredibly effective at sloughing off dead surface skin cells and also keeping the skin hydrated and nourished. After leaving body with a healthy soft glow and improving my skin concerns quite dramatically, the scrub has now become a regular addition to my night-time skin routine. A 10/10 product for me beauties! 12
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
13
14
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
15
Billionaire Baby Youngest sister of the Kardashian-Jenner “Klan” and founder of Kylie Cosmetics has been named the youngest ‘self-made’ billionaire by Forbes Kylie Jenner is now the world’s youngest ‘self-made’ billionaire, according to Forbes. That’s a title previously held by Microsoft cofounder Bill Gates in 1987 at age 31 and by Facebook co-founder Mark Zuckerberg in 2008 at age 23. However, this 21-year-old has predominantly made her fortune thanks to her cosmetics company Kylie Cosmetics. Given her background of wealth and fame, many online critics have scoffed at the ‘self-made” title, but fan or not, it is clear Jenner’s entrepreneurial efforts are pretty impressive.
THE Kylie Cosmetics story In November 2015, Kylie Cosmetics was put on the makeup map, after launching her infamous $29 “Lip Kits,” consisting of a matching liquid lipstick and lip liner to create the ‘perfect Kylie pout.’ The ‘never-seen-before’ concept disrupted the cosmetic market and changed the face of the beauty industry with other brands such as MAC Cosmetics and Huda Beauty shortly following in the beauty moguls footsteps and releasing their versions of “Lip Kits”.
16
PHE BEAUTY
Since then Jenner has expanded her range to include eyeshadow palettes, concealers, “kylighters”, makeup tools, and more, all released in surprise “drops” that get fans’ fingers racing for the check-out button. This came after the first release of her “Lip Kits” sold out within less than 60 seconds. Kylie Cosmetic’s FOMO exclusivity has kept fans hooked and has allowed the brand to sell these drops limited release, often in collaboration with her famous siblings and even her “momager” Kris Jenner. During an interview with Complex Magazine in 2016, Jenner stated: “I want to be as big as the other [cosmetic] brands. It’s my dream to be on Forbes.” Fast forward just over two years and her exact dream has come true with Forbes valuing the brand at $900 million (£680m). These sales are yet to continue after Kylie Cosmetics signed an exclusive deal with American beauty retailer Ulta in November 2018, now allowing customers to buy Kylie Cosmetics in 1,163 Ulta stores across 50 states in the US. Forbes has stated that Kylie Cosmetics sold $54.5 million (£42.8m) worth of products in Ulta stores
over the first six weeks of the deal. Kylie has also made a couple of half-million dollar donations to charity organisations through sales on Kylie Cosmetics. In 2017, Jenner donated 100 percent of the $459,000 proceeds from the pale pink matte Lip Kit, fittingly named “Smile,” to Smile Train, which supports free cleft palate surgery for millions of children around the world and in the September of 2017 she donated £500,000 from the sales of her limited edition 2017 Birthday Collection to the charity, Teen Cancer America. The entrepreneur hopes her legacy will show that her success “wasn’t just getting her lips done and having good hair, but being a good person and inspiring other people to not bully other people and do good things and be nice to everybody,” she told Time. Previously Jenner has also stated that she plans to work on the company “forever” and then hopes to pass it down to her daughter, Stormi, who recently celebrated her first birthday. Kylie Cosmetics is projected to rake in $1 billion in lifetime sales by 2022, WWD reports. But this leaves us beauty lovers asking “what is next for Kylie cosmetics?”
Photo credit: Kylie Cosmetics on Instagram
JUNE
2019
17
18
PHE BEAUTY
Discover your perfect red at Nars.com JUNE
2019
19
20
PHE BEAUTY
Michael Myers is a Dallas-based fashion, beauty and portrait photographer. With over 10 years experience, Mike has captured some of the most stunning beauty photography Phe has ever seen. The American creative has also worked for the magazine industry’s biggest names including Vogue Italia. Phe would like to dedicate the next few pages to Michael and his truly captivating work- be prepared to be blown away.
JUNE
2019
21
22
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
23
24
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
25
26
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
27
28
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
29
AVAILABLE ON CHANEL.COM
30
PHE BEAUTY
Violet Voss Rainbow Palette, £28. This 10-pan rainbow palette is ideal for any makeup lover wanting to create daring and vibrant looks. The shimmery shadows moisturise and nourish the eye whilst still being super pigmented. Photo credit: Violet Voss on Instagram
Photo credit: Doll Beauty on Instagram
Doll Beauty Doll Tan, £18. Thanks to the marshmallow and rose scent, there’ll be no more paranoid armsniffing when colleagues moan about “that biscuit smell”.
Photo credit: GUCCI Beauty on Instagram
Gucci Bloom Acqua Di Fiori EDT For Her 50ml, £62. Designed to celebrate the authenticity, vitality and joyful energy of women, just one pump of this powdery floral scent leaves you feeling uplifted and feminine.
Phe loves The latest beauty drops that Phe is absolutely loving...
Photo credit: Morphe on Instagram
Morphe Color Pencil in Frenchie, £3 This pinky/nude lipliner that is so creamy glides on with one swipe of the lips and claims to be ‘kissproof’ all night long, I’ll report back later…
Maybelline SuperStay 24H Foundation 30ml, £9.99. The lightweight, yet high-impact coverage formula glides onto the skin seamlessly and lasts all day. If you haven’t purchased already do it RIGHT NOW! Photo credit: Maybelline on Instagram
Huda Beauty Power Bullet Matte Lipstick in Staycation, £22. Huda claims this sexy fawn nude is so pigmented, the machines in her manufacturer’s lab almost broke when trying to make it.
Photo credits: Huda Beauty on Instagram
JUNE
2019
31
START YOUR JOURNEY 32
PHE BEAUTY
AT CUROLOGY.COM JUNE
Photo credits: Curology on33 Instagram
2019
Phe talks with...
Sharpe Faces Owner of Sharpe Faces Jessica Richmond talks to Phe about life as an MUA
How long have you been a makeup artist and where did you journey into the industry begin? “I’ve been an MUA for over 3 and half years now. Before makeup I was working in a really boring office job. After the birth of my first child, I took some time off. Makeup has always been a big passion of mine, so I began doing family and friends makeup at the weekends, just as a bit of fun, but that’s I began to think that I’d love to do it as my full-time career. Once my maternity leave was over, I knew I didn’t want to go back to the office job, so I began applying for makeup roles and landed a job at MAC in Peterborough. And I suppose the rest with Sharpe Faces is history!” What is it about makeup that gets you up to work every morning? “For me it’s that every day is different. I never feel like I’m doing the same old thing. Being able to have different conversations with different types of clients every day is what I love. Also, a massive thing to me is that feeling when you’ve made a client fall in love with their finished look through your skill. It’s so nice to see how makeup can give someone such a confidence boost! I also now offer makeup lessons and masterclasses for people to come and train with me, I feel like no day is the same and I get to meet so many great people.” 34
PHE BEAUTY
What would you say is your biggest career achievement? “Definitely leaving retail as an and making the decision to build my own brand, Sharpe Faces. Although, it was super scary, it’s the best decision I’ve ever made. Being able to say I have painted the faces of celebrities and reality stars from Towie, Love Island ect, has been amazing. One of my proudest moments was when I did Paralympic medallist, Lauren Steadman’s makeup for the NTA’s this year. Turning on the TV and seeing my work was the most surreal feeling.”
Top 3 products What are the 3 products couldn’t live without? I like this question! Without a doubt number one is MAC’s Studio Fluid Foundation. It’s the go-to for all my clients as it sits on every skin type so nicely. It’s buildable, has a diverse shade range and gives a gorgeous finish. My second product would have to be the Doll Beauty highlighters. They are a UK brand and are killing the game with at the minute. Most of my clients love a bright glow and these highlighters give the most beautifully intense glow. And finally, the L’Oréal Hydra Genius, it’s actually a serum but I use it as a primer, as it sits amazingly under foundation and I believe it’s one of the only products that actually primes and preps the face prior to makeup application.
What advise could you give aspiring make-up artists who are just beginning their careers? “So at the beginning, you are going to have to put yourself out there and do a lot of free work and makeovers. Don’t expect the work to come to you, just because you’re becoming an MUA. This is a competitive industry and you have to be prepared to work your arse off! Borrowing your friends and family for looks is a great way of building your portfolio up. But whilst you’re building your portfolio make sure you remember to take lots of photos, you’ll be able to see your progression and which skills you need to build on.
Phe talks with...
1 3
Photo credit: MAC Cosmetics on Instagram
2 Photo credit: L’Oréal on Instagram
Photo credit: Doll Beauty on Instagram
Where would you like to see yourself in 5 years’ time? “I would like to turn Sharpe Faces into a makeup academy. I currently use my small home garage as my work studio. So, I would love to open a large academy, employing a large number of talented MUA’s where we specialise in makeup training. As much as I love doing client makeup, I also love teaching makeup. I feel like my area in Peterborough lacks this type of business so it would be a great opportunity for the city and aspiring MUA’s. So…here’s to the future!”
What is your favourite look you’ve created so far? “I think my favourite so far has to be one I did just last weekend. I was feeling really inspired and asked one of my makeup models to come over so I could have a play with some new neon pigments. I decided to have a mess around with a bright neon yellow and placed this in the inner corner of the eye, the bright pop from the yellow instantly gave the eye a wow factor. As the eyes were very dramatic, I felt it would be best to keep the rest of the face minimal, going for a soft glowy skin and a beautiful nude gloss for the lips. I’m really proud of this neon vibe look and think it will be great for festival season as neon is really in this year!” JUNE
2019
35
36
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
37
10 decades of
Brow If there is one thing the beauty world is obsessed with, it’s eyebrows. From the extremely over-plucked to the bushy Cara Delevingne ‘power’ brows. I think we can all agree that we’ve certainly come a long way when it comes to different eyebrow trends, shapes and sizes. Want to know all about long history of brows and their trends? Well here’s a complete lowdown of brows through 10 decades, and boy, what a journey it’s been…
1930s
The 'Garbo' Plucked & Pencilled
During the 30s brows were severely plucked and pencilled on thin. A new batch commercially-made brow products became available for women. Many movie-stars like Greta Garbo used the products to create a more defined and curved arch to the brow. This decade sparked a new interest in beauty products for all types of women.
38
PHE BEAUTY
1940s
The 'Crawford' Full & Natural
The 40s marked the beginning of fuller, more natural-looking brows. The softer brows, created a less serve look for women, with 40s Itgirl Joan Crawford inspiring women to manicure their natural brows with a light hand and less plucking.
1950s
The 'Monroe' Hollywood Drama
After the threat of war was over, bold was in with a vengeance. Much like the women, brows too became bolder. Definition was added to natural brows with high pointed arches towards the end. One of the biggest Hollywood stars of all time, Marilyn Monroe, boasted the bold high-arch brows brow.
1960s
The 'Twiggy' Twig Brows
But, the bold brow didn’t last for long- the 60s saw the return of the thin brow. Thanks to IT-girl Twiggy. The supermodel’s signature lashes eyes became the focal point of 1960s beauty, meaning brows were now seen more as a sideshow (thin, neat and discreet). JUNE
2019
39
1970s
The 'donna'
Big Hair, Small Brows The brow situation only got thinner in the 70s, and with disco-fever (think: metallic jumpsuits and big hair), brows became smaller. Disco legend Donna Summer adopted the thin, straight arched brow look in order to make way for her full discofever glam which many followed.
1980s
The 'Shields' Bushy Baby
The 70s ladies were in for a shock when the 80s rolled around, the world saw the return of the big and bold. This was the era of shoulder pads, perms, blue eyeshadow‌ and bushy brows! With Brooke Shields as the 80s poster girl, it became a trend for women to have big bushy brows. The bushier, the better, baby.
1990s
The 'PAMela' Overplucked
In the 90s no woman was spared from their tweezer; brows were majorly plucked. The overplucked look was sported by many 90s stars, perhaps most popularly by Pamela Anderson. Her influence rocketed a whole generation of women into plucking away with the tweezers. 40
PHE BEAUTY
2000s
The 'paris’ Pencilled In
With many over tweezing their brows to death during the 90s, the use of noughties. The birth of new and improved beauty products meant filling in your brows was the ‘thing’. Celebrities such as Paris Hilton liked long, thin and pencilled in brows.
2010
'The 'cara' Power Brows
Bold was back and a large part of this was thanks to model-of-the-moment, Cara Delevingne. As the quirky teen rose to fame in 2010 and so did her incredible “power” brows. The thick and bushy brows that purposefully contrasted with her honey-blonde hair, inspiring women to want bigger and braver brows.
Now
The 'jENNER' Insta Brows
With rise in technology we are seeing the world go mad for the “Insta Brow”. IG has become the ‘go-to-destination’ for brow inspiration thanks to beauty influencers like Kylie Jenner. In order to achieve the perfect “Insta Brow” many enthusiasts are using a semipermanent tattoo technique known as ‘microblading’, to be ‘selfie’ ready. JUNE
2019
41
42
PHE BEAUTY
JUNE
2019
43
Until next time...
Phe x