spoiled nation 2018 2019
sn “Inspiration for the nation”
X ASOS announces ‘Collusion’ – a new fashion brand that aims to give a voice to today’s youth. BY SOPHIE HALES
In October 2018, global fashion brand ASOS and Uncommon Creative Studio co-created the clothing brand, ‘Collusion’, targeted for a new generation of fashion conscious youths with the purpose of bringing more inclusivity to the fashion market. Collusion aims to cut through mainstream fashion brands like Pretty Little Thing, who design garments for at a ‘certain type’ of consumer-young, thin and female and instead offer something real- size inclusive, gender-fluid clothing that is ethically sourced and animal-free at an affordable price. 2 Spoiled Nation 2018 / 2019 photos 1-2 Credit: Collusion WEBPAGE
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“The collaboration is for ‘the coming of age, shaped by, and for, an audience who demand something different from the fashion industry” Collusion was founded by a line-up of young
The work produced by Rene for Collusion
creatives – students, stylists, activists, image-mak-
led to a limited edition collection comprising
ers and authors who have all shaped the brands
of 10 clothing pieces, entitled ‘Baby, Look Af-
identity with their own concepts on how fashion
ter Yourself Please’. Matić’s artwork embody
should evolve with today’s generation.
themes of diaspora, belonging and solidarity which appear through the graphic prints on
One of the sixth creatives was conceptual artist
pieces which include; co-ords, sweatshirts,
and activist, Rene Matić from Peterborough. The
dungarees and parkas. A humble, yet hard-
21 year old’s work frequently highlights and ques-
working Rene describes her work as; “A fuck-
tions structures of power within society and spe-
ing hot mess, but a determined one.”
cifically the art and fashion world, often drawing up experiences of her life as a queer, femme of colour. 4 Spoiled Nation 2018 / 2019
“A fucking hot mess, but a determined one.”
photos 3-6 Credit: Collusion ON INSTAGRAM
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With representation essential to the brand’s ethos, the colourful and ‘90s-inspired collection has inclusive sizing across the range-going up to a size 6X. From everyday wears like unisex striped tees to the most head-turning statement pieces, there’s something for everyone. ASOS CEO Nick Beighton said the success came from a simple, yet often undervalued retail adage - what does the consumer want? “We look through the eyes of customers,” he stated, speaking on behalf of those who “choose to be free to select their fashion the way they want”.
“We look through the eyes of customers”
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photos 7-9 Credit: Collusion WEBPAGE
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The national campaign for Collusion captured 100 young people living in Britain, featuring array of cultures, races, religions, and socioeconomic backgrounds. The diverse group includes Fred Alexander, a skateboarder from London who hates lad culture; Lydia Wasley, who battled cancer at age 14, resulting in a leg amputation; and Glasgow’s Shay Thomas, who was abandoned as a baby in Thailand and identifies as “they” or “them”. One element of the campaign involves a a six-minute film directed by filmmaker Dan Emmerson. The campaign video represents the lives of the 100 young people who have turned, or will turn, eighteen this year and asks the simple question “What do you wish for in the year you come of age?” The short film paints a unique portrait of British youth today.
photos 10-13 Credit: Collusion WEBPAGE
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During the campaign and on the ASOS website many of the same garments are worn by both female and male models to show gender fluidity. Business of Fashion reported that in its first week of sales in October, Collusion was the number four brand out of 850 ASOS labels. Just a few years ago, when genderless apparel first entered the fashion market, critics questioned whether or not it would be profitable, or just a niche category. Today, the demand for gender fluidity clothing has grown rapidly, with some brands like John Lewis even creating non-gendered lines for infants. For brands like ASOS, the demand for unisex clothing has been quickly proven as Gen-Z are no longer concerned with wearing gender specific clothing but instead want inclusivity.
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photos 14-16 Credit: Collusion WEBPAGE
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IS SOCIAL MEDIA IMPACTING THE RISE IN COSMETIC SURGERY? Young people’s mental health is being damaged ‘unobtainable’ body images posted on the online word BY SOPHIE HALES In a digital age where social media is a constant presence in our lives, it comes as no surprise that it is affecting the way we view ourselves. Social media empowers us to share information, engage with content, connect with friends and is a reliable source of entrainment. However, it may be key driving force to the increase in cosmetic procedures and negative body image, specifically amongst Millennials. Social media and smartphones have created a generation that is obsessed with capturing every moment on camera and sharing it with the world, including the rise in ‘selfies’. The selfie boomed into popularity in 2010 after the front-facing camera was invented for the smartphone and has now become a regular part of social media culture. Some critics have derided the trend as a form of narcissism, as controversial as it is, the obsession with capturing the ‘perfect’ selfie may be a key factor in the rise of young people requesting cosmetic procedures. “It seems the longer you spend on social media, the greater your chance of finding fault with your face and body,” explained cosmetic surgeon Ricardo Frati. Such pressure comes from social media platforms like Instagram, where users can compose their profile to present the perfect life, as well as post edited and Photoshopped pictures. This false reality often creates an illusion of unrealistic standards for other users who often left questioning and comparing themselves.
A report conducted in 2017 by Nuffield Council on Bioethics, has claimed that pressure from social media to have the perfect body image is what makes young people increasingly turn to procedures such as botox, fillers and body reconstruction. The report focused on what was influencing young people to consider cosmetic surgery. The factors included: the ‘increased use of the rating of images of the self and the body on social media, for example through ‘likes; the popularity of celebrity culture and airbrushed images; and the huge growth in the use of social media in general.
Perhaps the most shocking thing the report reveals is this correlation between social media pressure and cosmetic procedures doesn’t just affect millennials. Apps like ‘Plastic Surgery Princess’ and ‘Little Skin Doctor’ which encourage acne treatments, nose jobs, face lifts and lip fillers are being marketing to children as young as nine. With a large major of children having access to a mobile phone by the age of 10, this certainly leaves us questioning where the future of young people getting surgery will end up.
A report conducted in 2017 by Nuffield Council on Bioethics, has claimed that pressure from social media to have the perfect body image is what makes young people increasingly turn to procedures such as botox, fillers and body reconstruction. The report focused on what was influencing young people to consider cosmetic surgery. The factors included: the ‘increased use of the rating of images of the self and the body on social media, for example through ‘likes; the popularity of celebrity culture and airbrushed images; and the huge growth in the use of social media in general photo Credit: lalo Hernandez on unsplash
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‘The Kylie Jenner effect’ Beauty mogul Kylie Jenner has made serious money off her lips, before building her multi-million pound cosmetic brand, Kylie Cosmetics, which first rocketed onto the market through her famous ‘lipstick-kits’, her mouth got her famous for another reason. After months of speculation, Jenner finally revealed in 2015 that she’d gotten lip injections at the age of 16. While Kylie initially expressed regret over having gone overboard with her enhancements, the social media star has since been extremely vocal about her visits to the plastic surgeons office (naturally, Snapchatting and Instagramming the visits along the way). Lip injections have certainly become more popular in more recent years. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons a record number of people underwent lip augmentation procedures in 2015 (the same year Kylie fessed up about her much fuller pout). And desire for the procedure didn’t stop there, in 2016 the number of lip augmentations went up another 4 percentage, according to the same report. During interview with Highsnobiety, Floridian plastic surgeon Michael Salzhauer, or Dr. Miami, stated; “Ten years ago, women in their late teens and early twenties rarely sought plastic surgery, but now young people are doing it because they are seeing themselves on social media from different angles next to models like Kylie Jenner.”
photo Credit: kylie jenner on instagram
YMCA a British youth charity interviewed over 1,000 young people aged between 11 and 16. They found that 62% of 15 to 16-year-olds felt that social media and celebrity influence had ramped up expectations over their personal appearance. The charity said that edited images, the sharing of only the most flattering shots shifted young people’s understanding of what a normal body looked like. In the UK the market for cosmetic procedures was estimated to be worth as much as £3.6bn in 2015, its thought that this number has since grown considerably bigger within recent years. Clearly, this highlights the fact we are living in a world where we are subjected to huge amounts of pressure to look a certain way. The question is will this idea of the ‘perfect look’ ever stop or will the future be inflated lips for everyone? In this society obsessed with looks, social media and celebrities it could go either way.
photo Credit: kylie jenner on instagram
“Young people are doing it because they are seeing themselves on social media from different angles next to models like Kylie Jenner.” 14 Spoiled Nation 2018 / 2019