THE ZOOMING GOOSE Indy Icon adapts
Written by Neil Charles / Photographed by Adam Gibson As the pandemic approaches its first anniversary, restaurants and retailers have found themselves forced to respond to a new and hitherto unique set of challenges. Some have prospered under the lockdown and its various iterations, others have not. Long a favorite of ours at SL Indy, we are happy to report that Goose the Market, a unique Indianapolis establishment, appears to be weathering the storm in its own unique and inimitable way that incorporates oysters, smoked meats and, of course, the ubiquitous Zoom. For well over a decade, Goose the Market (located at 25th and Delaware) has built a reputation on the local food scene both as a retailer and, through the Smoking Goose and Public Smokehouse, purveyors of the highest-quality cured meats to many of the area’s better restaurants. Founded by Mollie and Chris Eley, what started in concept as an upscale neighborhood market has become a household name amongst those who appreciate the finer things in life, with smoked meats, sausages and terrines now available at select locations as far afield as Chicago and New York. Also boasting a charming wine bar, called The Enoteca, with a constantly changing selection of unusual bottlings served up with cheese boards and the now famous housemade charcuterie, Goose has become a destination for gourmets seeking a one-of-a-kind gastronomic experience. Key to its success both inside and outside of the Indianapolis market has been the exceptional quality of the products. “We use the whole animal, not just the prime cuts like steaks or chops,” explains Chris Eley. “Our house recipes start with what comes in from the farms.” Favorites include the Pig and Fig terrine and the Delaware Fireball, a uniquely savory and spicy hand-wrapped sausage that has become a standard bearer for the brand. Unlike larger, more commercial producers, ingredients are strictly locally sourced, with seasonal items and special offerings often selling out fast to a small army of Goose aficionados. In addition to the fabulous products themselves, customers could also, at least until last year, attend classes at the Smoking Goose on the subjects of whole hog butchering and salumi making. At The Enoteca, with its weathered communal tables and amply stocked wine cellar, guests could spend a relaxing evening learning about food and wine pairing or how to recreate one of Goose the Market’s famous charcuterie and cheese boards. “These were edible, drinkable 'tours' of destinations all over the world, and included oyster shucking, beer and cheese pairing, and more,” explains Smoking Goose’s “narration director” Corrie Cook. “Of course, the food and drink got the spotlight, but part of the charm for staff and guests was experiencing strangers rubbing elbows together around those communal tables.” That was until Covid-19 struck. “And then, beginning in March, we couldn't be in company together,” she continues. “The spark of those Enoteca classes and events was extinguished just like that.”
78 slmag.net
