Sophisticated Living Indianapolis March/April 2022 by Sophisticated Living Magazine

{Indianapolis’ Finest}

Mar/Apr 2022 five dollars

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SOPHISTICATED CELEBRATIONS

IVONNE & PAVEL

Ivonne Blanco, community engagement coordinator for Amigos Latino Center, and Pavel Polanco-Safadit were married on October 10, 2021, at Tabernacle Presbyterian Church in Indianapolis, with a reception at the Cabaret at the Arts Council of Indianapolis. Pavel headlines the Indianapolis-based Latin jazz band Pavel and Direct Contact, and not surprisingly, music played a huge role in the reception. While a jazz band played for cocktails and dinner, there was also a “Hora Loca” which means “Crazy Hour”, is a 12 slmag.net

Dominican Republic wedding tradition. During this interlude, Carnivale masks were handed out and two samba dancers performed, interacting with guests. A roster of notable musicians including Rob Dixon, Kenny Phelps, Val Phelps, Steve Dokken and Reggie Bishop provided the jazz, while DJ Kyle Long and Ana Lucia Cavalnate and friends delighted guests with the samba and salsa presentation. The couple traveled to Portugal and Spain for their honeymoon. sl

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SOPHISTICATED WOMAN KIM COOK Kim Cook is the president of Daniels Family Vineyard and Winery in McCordsville, Indiana. We recently caught up with this busy entrepreneur, mother, wife (and grandmother of nine!). How would you describe yourself, in three words? Family-oriented, energetic, optimistic What led you to where you are now, and when did you know you wanted to get into winemaking? My husband Daniel and I love to travel, and we fell in love with the antiquity of the Tuscan foothills. We wanted to plant a vineyard that would last for generations. We have had this property for several years, it’s always been a special place to us and has served as our family’s and friends’ playground. So in 2008, Danny decided to plant a vineyard – not that we had any experience in farming or winemaking! But we’ve never let experience stop us from trying something new. We continued to grow organically, and now we are expanding every year. We started as a vineyard and it blossomed into a winery, venue and full production facility. What’s it like to work with family, and especially, your children? I couldn’t imagine another way to work. I grew up in a family business; we’ve always worked with family. The best thing about our family business is that everyone tries to make each others’ dreams come true. So when Daniel and I had the dream of a vineyard, all our children stepped in to help make our dream come true. Kalvin, Christian, Nick, Bob and their teams at our trucking company (Online Transport) were there to help us figure out how to build a vineyard. Jenna, Stephanie, Carlee, and Jen were there to figure out how to make wine – yes, they are self-taught with the help of Purdue – and also how to market it and run a tasting room. Jenna’s true passion, art, also has an important place at Daniel’s. All of our labels originate from a painting that she created. Who or what inspires you? My children are all so unique and talented in many ways. I’m inspired by their creativity, kindness and gratitude. We all balance our family life and our passions, and it’s amazing to see all of them continually grow and focus on their passions. Looking towards the future, what’s the outlook for your industry? How have you adapted during the pandemic? We love to pivot and stay creative; I believe we have one of the most creative and progressive teams in the industry. Our winemaker Blake Trobaugh’s passion projects are petnats and natural wines; we look forward to introducing more natural wines and changing the perception in the midwest. When the pandemic hit we came out with the “quarantine pack”: two bottles of wine, chocolate, and two rolls of toilet paper, delivered to your door!

Kim and Daniel Cook with some of their nine grandchildren

What do you love most about Indianapolis? I am passionate about Indianapolis and couldn’t imagine living anywhere else. Indy is often underestimated by those who don’t know us – we have so much to offer! We get to enjoy all the great housing, sports, arts, restaurants, and ease of travel, all at a very affordable cost compared to much of the country. Daniel’s has been a great opportunity to be part of the city. We are available at several venues around the city, and participate in sponsoring many of the arts and charitable organizations throughout the region. What advice would you give that might resonate with other women pursuing their dreams? Stay focused and keep going. The road is never straight or easy, but you will get there eventually. Learn, I would say. I have been a part of many businesses – flipping houses, a professional indoor soccer team, a restaurant, and rental homes to mention a few. Some were successful, some were total failures, but we learned a lot from them all. So my advice would be never give up on a passion, take your mistakes and learn from them, always work hard and have something to fall back on. How do you balance work life and home life? We enjoy every day as it comes together. Our family motto is “don’t sweat the small stuff; it’s all small stuff.” Where would you like to see yourself in five years, and Daniel’s in five years or beyond? I would like to be traveling the world and spending more time with my nine grandchildren; hopefully we’ll have five more in five years. And I would like for Daniel’s to be a common name in the region. Is there anything you’d like readers to know about you that we haven’t asked? Daniel’s Vineyard is available at a retailer near you! Enjoy a bottle with your loved ones. sl For more information, visit danielsvineyard.com

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{Indianapolis’ Finest}

Mar/Apr 2022

Mar/Apr 2022 five dollars

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on the cover: “South of the Monument” by Anna Afshar, part of her “Red Umbrella” series, perfectly evokes a rainy spring afternoon in downtown Indianapolis. “‘Red Umbrella’ is my most popular image,” says Afshar. “I keep painting, changing the composition of people and exploring further water media. It is a perfect subject for that.” For more information, visit annaafsharart.com.

Sophisticated Celebrations

Sophisticated Woman

From the Editor-in-Chief

Southern Belle of the Ball

Bibliotaph... Girl Power

Ojo Para el Arte

Color Your World

Messages in a Bottle

Deco Delights

The Spirit of Dakar

The Perfect Pair in Puerto Vallarta

Of Note... Splish, Splash, Upgrades for Your Primary Bath

European Elegance

Saints & Dinners

Sophisticated Sips

Caddis Eye Appliances is known for creating fashionable readers and eyewear that enhance your style, not detract from it. “Velma” is one of the newest designs, and the name might be familiar to anyone who watched a certain gang of teen sleuths on Saturday morning cartoons back in the day. The style comes in four shades: turtle (shown), black, gloss white and gloss minor blues, and as both readers and progressives; all lenses are also infused with their proprietary blue lightblocking technology. For more information or to order, visit caddislife.com.

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Mar/Apr 2022

Caddis Eye Appliances make reading glasses a fashion statement. Here, one of the latest designs, “Velma” in gloss white, is the antithesis of the boring drugstore reader, and is designed with quality as well as style in mind, while offering the latest in blue-light-blocking technology. For more information, or to order, visit caddislife.com.

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PUBLISHER & EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jeffrey Cohen MANAGING EDITOR Annie Mosbaugh Knapp CONTRIBUTING EDITOR Neil Charles DIRECTOR OF MARKETING & COMMUNITY RELATIONS Sara Tensn EXECUTIVE ASSISTANT Grace Schultz CONTRIBUTORS Writers Caroline Hannan Scott Harper Suzanne Huntzinger Amelia Jeffers Jack Mitchell Bridget Williams Photographers Adam Gibson Andre Jefferson Andrew Kung Rachel Lutz

82% of readership survey respondents said that Sophisticated Living is superior to other local publications. Want to learn more? Contact Publisher and Editor-in-Chief Jeffrey Cohen at 317.565.4555.

PUBLISHER EMERITUS Jennifer Cohen ADVERTISING SALES OFFICE 317.565.4555

Sophisticated Living is published bimonthly by Cohen Media, LLC, and is independently owned and operated. Sophisticated Living is a registered trademark of Williams Media, Inc. All rights reserved. All images and editorial are the property of Sophisticated Living, LLC, and cannot be reproduced in whole or in part without written permission. Annual subscriptions are $25 in the U.S., $55 outside. Single copies are $5 at select fine retailers. For subscription inquiries, write Sophisticated Living, Indiana Design Center 200 S. Rangeline Road, Suite 212, Carmel, IN 46032, or call 317.565.4555.

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SUNDAY DRIVE It’s a relaxing Sunday afternoon, and spring has sprung in the Chatham community. The golf course has awakened from its winter’s nap and signs of new beginnings are blossoming around the course and community. You set out for a Sunday drive around the neighborhood and pass under a white arched bridge, winding down an easy road. Following the rolling terrain of the golf course, you exchange waves with golfers teeing off on Hole 10. At the bottom of the hill, you’re greeted by the gated stone entrance of Chatham Ridge. Passing through this newest section of The Ridge, you see a range of contemporary craftsman style homes on and off the course. Each exquisite home offers a custom design and layout

as a result of careful planning and workmanship. Views of wideopen fairways beckon between homes, while wooded backyard sanctuaries offer serene privacy. Throughout the Ridge, you spot grand views of the stunning clubhouse nestled at the top of the Chatham valley. The twoentrance neighborhood provides ease of access to and from the Club and its year-round, resort-style amenities. With numerous activities and events throughout the year, you always have something to do with friends and family. At Chatham Hills, every day feels as easy as a Sunday afternoon drive. sl slmag.net

From the Publisher & Editor-in-Chief For the past five years, I’ve taught Sunday school at our synagogue, Indianapolis Hebrew Congregation, and it’s some of the most gratifying “work’’ I do. I teach sixth grade, and this year I have 24 kids. I got into it when my cousin, who I’d always admired for being a longtime Sunday school teacher, asked me to teach. I immediately said yes, though I’d never taught anything and was basically clueless. I don’t know that I’m any better now, but I sure do enjoy it, and the kids…well, no one’s falling asleep or staring out the windows. I remember my first day – I walked in and you could’ve heard a pin drop. The desks were lined up in rows and there was a podium at the front of the room. The first thing I did, before I even wrote my name on the chalkboard and introduced myself, was to pick the podium up, walk it out the door and set it in the hallway, telling the kids, “We’re not gonna need that!” Then I asked them all to stand up and push their desks into a circle. It was the sorriest looking circle you’ve ever seen, but it felt like we were going to have a conversation rather than a lecture. At teacher orientation, the then-director assured me that the school had flat screens, laptops, etc. – everything I’d need to do powerpoints and presentations – not realizing he was talking to someone who struggles with texting. I remember telling him, the next powerpoint I do will be my first, and if that’s the expectation, I’m not your guy. Apparently slightly concerned, he asked how I planned to teach. I told him I wasn’t sure, but that the kids would have fun and learn. That’s been my goal in every class since, to have fun and learn, in that order. I don’t remember what I taught that first day five years ago; I do recall telling the kids I wasn’t going to be lecturing, but that I’d introduce a ‘nugget’ (an assigned topic), then we’d discuss it. That’s what I do, and I’ve yet to have anyone fall asleep. My style’s unorthodox, if it’s even a style, but it seems to work and more often than not, the discussion gets so involved that we run out of time. At these ages (11-13) the kids are so chatty and really just want to be heard and acknowledged. But it’s a pivotal year for Jewish kids; sixth grade is the year before their bar or bat mitzvahs. I try to do my small part in getting them ready, especially as public speakers, for the most part without their even realizing. By the time we’re a few weeks into the year, my kids are used to speaking in front of each other. A few years ago, the synagogues around town sent their Sunday school classes to the Bureau of Jewish Education for a Holocaust Remembrance Day program. As part of this, our classes included more kids than just our “regular” students. When one of the rabbis came around and asked for a couple of students from each class to read in front of a few hundred people assembled in the auditorium at the end of the day, I was proud to see that two of my regulars raised their hands immediately, the only ones in the group to do so. I love it when a shy student comes out of his or her shell and chimes in on the discussion. I was a shy kid, as shy as they come, and I think being that way has made me more empathetic, and maybe a better teacher. I also get a kick out of seeing disruptive students become engaged and forget to be troublemakers. I always say at the beginning of the school year, if you want to participate, great, and if you don’t, that’s OK, but don’t ruin it for those of us who do. The craziness usually stops a few classes in, I think when they see that I’m not going to force them into talking. As you can imagine, we’ve had some curve balls thrown at us during the pandemic. I taught the entire year last year on Zoom, and we had to pivot after Omicron and winter break this year, spending another three weeks on Zoom. Each time, I can’t wait to get back to meeting in-person. In some respects, Zoom’s better – the kids tend to be less inhibited – but there’s no replacement for in-person, and I think they want that personal interaction. I treasure the notes I’ve received over the years from my students and their parents. It truly is gratifying to teach – so much so that I asked my wife to consider it this school year. “Miss Jen” is now the fifth grade religious school teacher at IHC. She had her bumps the first few classes, but like me, she feels it’s tremendously satisfying to impact kids. Above all, teaching has shown me how sharp and inquisitive middle school kids are, and I always learn more from them than they do from me.There’s a quote that says “When one teaches, two learn,” and so, I’d like to thank my class this year: Evie, Zach, Burke, Maddie, Nate, Elliott, Holden, Ethan, Meyer, Simon, Hannah, Maliyah, Olivia, Sam, Max, Isaac, Julian, Wrigley, Sadie, Joey, Alexis, Jordan and Caleb W. You are all an inspiration and a blessing.

Jeffrey Cohen jeff@slmag.net

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A painting by Charleston artist Linda Fantuzzo is a focal point of the lobby.

SOUTHERN BELLE OF THE BALL With just 50 rooms and a host of upscale amenities, The Loutrel sits pretty as Charleston's newest luxury lodging option. Written by Bridget Williams / Photos of The Loutrel by Kim Graham

Charleston has the unique ability to remain relevant through reinvention. Architecture aficionados, photographers, history buffs, culture mavens, golfers, foodies, and fishermen are among the many millions of visitors that annually trod its cobblestone streets. The melding of the foreign with the familiar, in which institutions like Poogan's Porch—a family-owned restaurant serving up Southern fare since 1976—stand side-by-side with newbies like The Loutrel—a luxury boutique hotel opened in late 2021—keep visitors returning as regularly as the tide. Located a stone's throw from Charleston's historic Market District, opened in 1807, The Loutrel was formerly the site of a nondescript sushi restaurant. The Loutrel's lush biophilic-inspired design and architecture nod to Charleston's signature gardens and aim to bring the outside indoors. Architecture and design firm Michael Graves successfully captured the vibrancy of the surrounding landscape to create a luxurious, mood-boosting environment.

The garden feel is evident as soon as you enter the soaring porch-inspired lobby and lounge, where a Lowcountry Swing Bed beckons near the reception desk. Local artist Linda Fantuzzo created the dreamy low country landscape that dominates one wall. Seating areas comprised of woven rattan and pieces upholstered in linen and wool provide ample space to "sit a spell" with the property's signature "Nice to Meet You" welcome cocktail in hand and enjoy the environs. Serving as the focal point of the lounge is a bronze and woodaccented bar displaying a discernable nautical influence. The space is a hub of activity from morning until late at night. A European-style breakfast precedes a daily "Finest Cocktail Hour" punctuated with canapé offerings and punch bowl cocktails. You can end the day here with pre-bedtime bites and craft libations concocted with a gardener's eye for ingredients. We found the crowd, an interesting mix of locals and tourists, to be quite convivial, more so later in the evening. slmag.net

The 50 generously sized guestrooms and suites boast Matouk linens and towels and locally made Deep Steep bath amenities.

From artwork to snacks, the hotel's owners took great care to buy local as much as possible. A striking black and white photo of Johns Island's centuries-old Angel Oak Tree is given prominence on a wall outside the elevator bank on the ground floor. One floor up on the hotel's mezzanine level. This plush private Clubroom reserved for hotel guests is stocked with craft beer, refreshments, a coffee and tea station, and locally made snacks from salty-to-sweet from local makers, including Grey Ghost Bakery and Lowcountry Chips, along with a rotating selection of light fare. Visitors quickly discover that it's impossible to go hungry in Charleston! A lending library and a fun selection of board games make the Clubroom an ideal hangout on rainy days. Generously proportioned guest accommodations include a mix of California king rooms, five suites, and a premier suite. All rooms feature Matouk linens and towels, locally made Deep Steep bath amenities, Lavazza coffee, and more complimentary locally made goodies. By law, buildings in Charleston's historic district can be no taller than the tallest church steeple, which is Saint Matthew's Lutheran Church. As a result, the Loutrel has strategically used every square inch of its four stories, including a rooftop terrace offering steeple top and Ravenel Bridge views. 34 slmag.net

The proliferation of steeples that punctuate the skyline in The Loutrel's vicinity speaks to Charleston's moniker as "The Holy City," which traces its roots to an early charter of Charles Town that guaranteed religious freedom. However, this tolerance did not always extend to all. The city was the entry point for some 200,000 enslaved Africans beginning in 1670, more than anywhere else in North America. The city is taking steps to shed light on its past through the International African America Museum (iaamuseum.org), slated to open on Gadsen's Wharf in late 2022. The IAAM will be a "museum, memorial center, and site of conscience that commemorates the foundational role Africans and their descendants played in the making of America." For stays on the shorter side, a car isn't necessary as The Loutrel's centralized location and grid of easily navigable streets make it easy to hit the highlights on foot. Hotel guests are privy to unique Charleston experiences, such as private garden tours with an in-house guide, boating excursions on the Carolina Girl yacht, and custom picnics with Picnic Charleston, to name a few. If all of the walking isn't enough, or if you overindulged as much as we did, the hotel's compact but very well-equipped gym complete with Peloton bikes is available for penitence.

You can view nine of Charleston’s famous church steeples from The Loutrel’s rooftop terrace.

The live oak trees on the approach to Boone Hall were planted in 1743. Photo by Christopher Shane courtesy of Explore Charleston.

View of Dock Street and Church Street. Photo courtesy of Explore Charleston

Rainbow Row Photo courtesy of Explore Charleston

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Serving as the focal point of the lounge is a bronze and wood-accented bar displaying a strong nautical influence.

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The Chef's Table with Wild Common Executive Chef Orlando Pagan. Photo by Jonathan Boneck

Seared Diver Scallops at Wild Common. Photo by Jonathan Boneck

Dining room and digital art wall at Wild Common. Photo by Jonathan Boneck

The Loutrel is sandwiched between two culinary thoroughfares, which offered us more dining options than available days. A highlight of our culinary carousing was a multi-course dinner at Wild Common, situated just outside the tourist hub. As we quickly discovered, this hidden gem—with James Beard Award-winning Executive Chef Orlando Pagán at the helm in the kitchen— intentionally keeps its guest count low and its standards high. Executive Sous Chef Zach Kimmel, who was running the show during our visit, said the only rule they have for their tasting-only menus is there are none. Wild Common's playful manner is akin to a fashion stylist who takes a high-low approach, pairing a Target blouse with Balmain trousers. From our seat at the bar, which framed one end of the compact kitchen, we enjoyed watching the preparation process and conversing with the staff. As we learned by talking with Kimmel, just because he's a chef that has fun with food— telling us about a caviar service where he used hash brown sleeves from McDonald's for serving caviar as an example—

doesn't mean that the food at Wild Common isn't seriously good. Striking candlelit décor complemented this fanciful feast, including a massive video projection on one wall that changed as the evening progressed. This spring and summer will see the return of popular events, including the Charleston Spring Antiques Show on April 1-3 (charlestonspringantiquesshow.com); the Cooper River Bridge Run on April 2 (bridgerun.com); Spoleto Festival USA, one of America's major performing arts festivals scheduled for May 27 through June 12 (spoletousa.org); and the July Sweetgrass Festival, which pays tribute to the region's Gullah history and traditions. With 300 years of history under its belt and many more chapters left to be penned, Charleston is a living museum that continues to dominate as a darling of domestic tourism. sl The Loutrel / 61 State St. / theloutrel.com / Rooms from $269/night The International African American Museum / iaamuseum.org Wild Common / 103 Spring St. / wildcommoncharleston.com Poogan's Porch / 72 Queen St. / poogansporch.com Slightly North of Broad / 192 E. Bay St. / snobcharleston.com

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Bibliotaph... Girl Power

Compiled by Victoria Chase A work of historical fiction that serves as an ode to Sylvia Beach, who opened the famed Parisian bookstore Shakespeare and Company in 1919, which became a haven for many prominent writers of the Lost Generation. Karri Maher—The Paris Bookseller—hardcover, 336 pages, Penguin Publishing An effervescent read for anyone who loves champagne, this work of historical fiction shares the story of Barbe-Nicole, who, following the death of her husband, winemaker François Clicquot, as Veuve (Widow) Clicquot, achieved legendary status. Rebecca Rosenberg—Champagne Widows—paperback, 332 pages, Lion Heart Publishing

Journalist Diana Kapp crisscrossed the country writing for and about empowered girls. The resulting 34 profiles are part biography, part guidebook to the contemporary environmental movement. Available in April. Diana Kapp—Girls Who Green the World: Thirty-Four Rebel Women Out to Save Our Planet—hardcover, 336 pages, Delacorte Press

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One of the Jazz Age’s most beloved poets, Dorothy Parker was widely regarded as the wittiest woman in America. Newly available as a standalone edition, her debut collection—a bestseller in 1926—features poems that range from lighthearted self-deprecation to acid-tongued satire. Dorothy Parker—Enough Rope: A Book of Light Verse—paperback, 144 pages, Knopf Doubleday Publishing

Olympic distance runner Alexi Pappas’ mother died by suicide when she was four years old. She filled the void by looking to female athletes as role models. Not content with success in athletic pursuits alone, in 2016, she made her Olympic debut as a distance runner and wrote, directed, and starred in her first feature film. Alexi Pappas—Bravery: Chasing Dreams, Befriending Pain, and Other Big Ideas—hardcover, 352 pages, Random House Publishing

bib 'li' o 'taph, [bib-lee-uhtaf, -tahf ]: a person who caches or hoards books This vibrant monograph of masterfully executed portraits is the first book dedicated to London-based fashion photographer Nadine Ijewere—the first Black woman photographer to land a cover of Vogue in the magazine’s 125-year history. Nadine Ijewere (photographer), Lynette Nylander (contributor)—Nadine Ijewere: Our Own Selves—hardcover, 192 pages, Presteel A never-before-gatheredtogether collection of pieces written by the late Joan Didion between 1968 to 2000 provide an illuminating glimpse into the mind and process of a legendary journalist, essayist, novelist, and screenwriter. Joan Didion—Let Me Tell You What I Mean—hardcover, 192 pages, Knopf Doubleday Publishing

For American women today, working out is accepted and expected, fueling a multibillion-dollar fitness industrial complex. But it wasn’t always this way. In this book, journalist Danielle Friedman reveals the hidden history of contemporary women’s fitness culture. She chronicles how exercise evolved from a beauty tool pitched almost exclusively as a way to “reduce” into one millions have harnessed as a path to mental, emotional, and physical well-being. Danielle Friedman—Let’s Get Physical: How Women Discovered Exercise and Reshaped the World—hardcover, 352 pages, G.P. Putnam’s Sons

Born to an aspirational blue-collar family during the Great Depression, Constance Baker Motley eschewed suggestions to pursue a career as a hairdresser. Instead, she became the first black woman to argue a case in front of the Supreme Court. She defended Martin Luther King in Birmingham, helped to argue in Brown vs. The Board of Education, and played a critical role in defeating Jim Crow laws throughout the South. She was the first black woman elected to the state Senate in New York, the first woman elected Manhattan Borough President, and the first black woman appointed to the federal judiciary. Tomika Brown-Nagin—Civil Rights Queen: Constance Baker Motley and the Struggle for Equality—hardcover, 512 pages, Pantheon

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Moco Barcelona boasts works by the top names in modern art including Damien Hirst, Jeff Koons, and Banksy. Photo courtesy Moco.

CURATING A COLLECTION

OJO PARA EL ARTE Written by Amelia Jeffers

If I had a nickel for every time someone asked me how I can look at an antique or work of art and give a quick assessment of quality and value, I could probably retire. The phrase “repetition is the mother of skill” has certainly held true in my experience. Across a 25+ year career in the auction and appraisal business, I have easily reviewed more than 100,000 objects - and, as I like to remind the folks who ask me: when your paycheck depends on knowing whether something is valuable, you learn to differentiate really fast. But, the truth is anyone can hone an eye for art and antiques with a modest amount of time and energy. And while books abound on every collecting genre, I believe there is no substitute for standing in front of an item. Only by experiencing what exists in the art world can someone begin to develop an appreciation and understanding of what they like and with which they want to live. For that reason, this feature will occasionally take a new slant on cultivating your passion for collecting - travel. From sheer approachability, guaranteed temperate weather, some of the best art in the world, and great food and wine, it just doesn’t get better than Spain. On a recent sojourn, I focused my time in two major cities with an impressive return on my investment. 40 slmag.net

Regularly listed among the top five museums in Europe, the massive Museo del Prado has been serving up incredible painting and sculpture exhibitions in the capital city of Madrid since 1819. Particularly well represented are early works with religious and cultural influences. Of note for our visit was the small but mighty showing of Leonardo da Vinci paintings, including the Prado’s copy of the Mona Lisa and the “Ganay” Salvator Mundi a notable viewing considering the less significant “Gulf ” example brought a cool $450M after a worldwide velvet rope tour by Christie’s just a few years ago. Our time with the da Vincis was met with much less fanfare but also an up-close-and-personal viewing in an intimate room with very few other people. It was memorable, to say the least. A quick taxi ride away is the Royal Palace of Madrid. Though it is not technically a museum, the collection of material culture, including glass, silver, porcelain, furniture, and musical instruments, makes this a must-see for any antiques enthusiast. Across the plaza, Almudena Cathedral and its NeoRomanesque crypt are an interesting dichotomy of historical and modern. The relatively new church—completed in 1993— boasts a uniquely modern interior fitted with chapels and

A Unesco World Heritage Site, Park Guell is one of the most photographed parks in the world. Photo by Michelle Raponi.

statues from contemporary artists in a variety of styles—even Pop art—though period works have been retro-fitted as well. My travel companion and I were anxious to cover a lot of ground in Barcelona, so we skipped Madrid’s Museum of Contemporary Art, hopped a high-speed train to the coast, and hit a more focused experience at the Picasso Museum. Expertly curated, the eponymous museum is regarded as one of the most complete permanent collections of his work and lends great insight into a master of modern art thanks to wonderful photography and an assemblage of paintings that create a career timeline. Just next door is the brand new Modern Contemporary (MOCO) Barcelona, a repeat effort to the independent museum’s highly successful Amsterdam location. Echoing the institution’s commitment to exhibiting iconic works by celebrated modern and contemporary artists as well as rising stars, the maze of rooms at MOCO Barcelona include innovative examples by Damien Hirst, classic works by Andy Warhol, Keith Haring, and Salvador Dali, and edgy conversationstarters like Jean-Michel Basquiat and Banksy. While it was the smallest of the museums we visited, it may have been our favorite. A visit to Barcelona would not be complete without a thorough exploration of the architectural marvels of Antoni

Gaudi. Largely considered his magnum opus, the yet-finished and thoroughly fantastical La Sagrada Família is an engineering marvel in scale, color, and design. The audio tour is a must for anyone who wants to fully capture the intricate details of the structure and plan. Like many of his projects, Park Guell was a labor of love for Gaudi and has become a treasure for not only the city but all of Europe. The Unesco World Heritage site represents a rare combination of nature, art, and architecture with breathtaking views of the Barcelona skyline and Balearic sea in the distance. With enough time, you could round out your exploration of Gaudi’s work by visiting Casa Batllo. Juxtaposed against a streetscape of luxury shops, the structure looks more like a building from a Dr. Seuss book than a structure from the early 20th Century. Spain has no shortage of public art and sites with important historical and cultural objects. From the Barcelona Cathedral with a history dating to 599 to street sculptures by icons including Roy Lichtenstein, we were overwhelmed by the vast number and breadth of art, antiques, and history to explore. For more information about the art and culture available in Spain, visit spain.info. sl Amelia Jeffers is an internationally recognized auctioneer and appraiser. For more information, visit ameliajeffers.com.

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BENJAMIN MOORE | From their library of more than 3,500 color candidates, Benjamin Moore selected October Mist 1495 as its 2022 Color of the Year. Describing it as “evoking the silver-green stem of a flower,” they offer the gently shaded sage hue as an ideal grounding canvas for layering other shades.

Ethicraft Connected Dots glass tray ($148; ethnicraft.com)

Isla double hammock from Lujo ($2,940; lujo.com.au)

COLOR YOUR WORLD

Product picks to stay on trend with Pantone, Benjamin Moore, and Sherwin-Williams’ color of the year selections. Compiled by Victoria Chase

Room & Board’s Vignelli outdoor table ($1,500: roomandboard.com)

SHERWIN-WILLIAMS | Soothing and subtle, SherwinWilliams selected Evergreen Fog SW 9130 for its 12th official Color of the Year. “Evergreen Fog is a sophisticated wash of color for spaces that crave a subtle yet stunning statement shade,” said Sue Wadden, director of color marketing at Sherwin-Williams. Evergreen Fog is part of Sherwin-Williams’ Colormix Forecast, which, for 2022, features 40 colors and four palettes.

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Chair from AMPM (laredoute.com)

Montara650 Rocker from Coalesse (coalesse.com)

Jet Class Beatrice dressing table (jetclass.pt/en)

Alice Periwinkle wallpaper from Olenka Design ($175/roll; olenkadesign.co.uk)

CH24 Wishbone chair from Carl Hansen & Son ($1,815; carlhansen.com)

Boogie Woogie cushion made with vintage fabric by Nichollette Yardley-Moore ($176; charltonisland.com)

MeatPacking Patchwork rug from G.T. Design (gtdesign.it)

Marshmallow double stool from Royal Stranger (royalstranger.com)

PANTONE | In stark contrast to the other Color of Year selections, the Pantone Color Institute opted for a livelier hue—Very Peri—a newly created color that the company describes as “displaying a carefree confidence and a daring curiosity that animates the creative spirit.” “Creating a new color for the first time in the history of our Pantone Color of the Year educational color program reflects the global innovation and transformation taking place,” said Laurie Pressman, Vice President of the Pantone Color Institute. “As society continues to recognize color as a critical form of communication, and a way to express and affect ideas and emotions and engage and connect, the complexity of this new red-violet infused blue hue highlights the expansive possibilities that lay before us”.

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Allison Anderson pouring a tasting flight at Anderson Family Vineyard

MESSAGES IN A BOTTLE Learning from the winemakers in Oregon’s Dundee Hills Written by Bridget Williams / Photography by Tony Bailey Having come to appreciate a good wine later in life, I do not consider myself an expert by any means. However, even more than a good pour (preferably red), what I do love is a good yarn, and a trip to the Dundee Hills in Oregon's Willamette Valley yielded both in abundance. The epicenter of Oregon pinot noir, the Dundee Hills AVA, is located 28 miles southwest of Portland and 40 miles inland from the Pacific Ocean. With the majestic snowy peaks of Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson frequently punctuating the view, the area certainly doesn’t lack when it comes to spectacular scenery. Winemaker David Lett planted the first pinot noir in the Dundee Hills in 1966, naming it The Eyrie Vineyard. He soon had company on the south-facing slopes from Dick Erath and the Sokol Blosser family. Notoriety came quickly when the thenunknown Eyrie pinot noir placed among the top three wines in the 1979 Gault-Millau French Wine Olympiades, besting more famous French labels. Part of a North Willamette Valley hill chain that developed from intense volcanic activity and the collision of the Pacific and North American plates, the vineyards spread out over 6,490 acres 44 slmag.net

in the Dundee Hills are known for rich, red volcanic Jory soil. They typically reach a depth of four to six feet and provide excellent drainage for superior quality wine grapes. Cultivation practices in the region lean heavily on natural inputs and sustainable practices, including Certified LIVE, organic, and biodynamic farming methods. There are more B-Corpcertified wineries in the Dundee Hills than any other AVA globally. Friendliness towards the earth extends to visitors, particularly at smaller wineries, where the owners often lead tastings. Of the approximately 793 wineries in Oregon, 44 are in the Dundee Hills. For the two full days we had for tastings, I'd meticulously plotted out an itinerary to visit 12 of them (with a designated driver). However, even with scheduling appointments beginning at 10am, my carefully conceived schedule quickly went out the window due in part to the aforementioned storytelling aspect I love so much, along with the very real need to break for lunch (at Red Hills Market, of course!). Following is a quick overview of the seven wineries where we enjoyed quality tastings: Argyle Winery, Anderson Family Vineyard, Cramoisi Vineyard, Élevée Winegrowers, Maresh Red Barn, Native Flora, and Purple Hands Winery.

Cliff Anderson sampling wine aging in a cave beneath the tasting room at Anderson Family Vineyard

The Tasting Room at Anderson Family Vineyard

The indoor/outdoor tasting venue at Argyle Winery

Anderson Family Vineyard – andersonfamilyvineyard.com We came for the views and lingered for the wine. The vines grow organically on precipitous rocky hillsides—a forty-degree slope to be exact, owner and winemaker Cliff Anderson told us. A selfprofessed "science geek," Cliff said he began making wine in high school, stashing his equipment under his bed. So if you are into the science of making wine, he's the one to talk to if you want to get into the minutiae, yet he makes the process exciting and easy to digest for those who are less scientifically minded. Cliff and his wife Allison spent three years in the 1980s searching for an ideal site to plant a vineyard, intending to be farmers and not winemakers. However, it wasn't until he tasted a less-than-satisfactory wine made by someone who bought his fruit that he decided to found their own label, releasing their first commercial vintage in 2002. Those steep slopes, terraced in some places, allow vines to be deeply rooted and dry-footed, resulting in wines with intense flavors. Their pinot noir, pinot gris, and Dijon chardonnay are made reductively with native yeast, moved entirely by gravity, and wait patiently to mature in a cool cave beneath the tasting room. "When I started, I didn't think I had a 'style,' but

over time, I've decided that I don't like too much oak," explained Jim, whose love for the process is genuinely evident in conversation. Tastings are by appointment only and take place in what Jim describes as "a building that looks like it belongs on a true Oregon vineyard and not imposed on the landscape." Argyle Winery – argylewinery.com After arriving in Portland and spending a few soggy hours hiking around spectacular Multnomah Falls, our first stop was Argyle Winery for a flight of bubbly. Argyle led the way to sparkling wine in the region when they launched their 1987 vintage. Argyle always makes my list when I'm in the area as their Extended Tirage, a brutstyle wine aged ten years before bottling, is incredible, and the fact that their founding viticulturalist, Allen Holstein, is a fellow Kentuckian. Argyle's tasting room, located in the heart of Dundee on the site of a former nut processing facility, encompasses two buildings: the quaint tasting house, a historic home complete with a white picket fence, and behind that, the Living House, a contemporary indoor/ outdoor tasting and event venue with an intimate tasting library holding reserve wines dating back to Argyle's very first vintage. slmag.net

A tasting of Cramoisi Estate Pinot Noir Cuvée

Cramoisi Vineyard – cramoisivineyard.com Winemaker Ryan McKay, the co-owner of Cramoisi, has made it his mission to find ways to harness Old World techniques, including seeking out heritage clones not yet planted in the Willamette Valley. His quest led to the discovery of clone 122, sourced from a Grand Cru vineyard in the Vosne-Romanée region. It is more than one thousand years old, and with only 25 plants, Cramoisi is growing their own budwood to propagate a one-acre block on their biodynamically farmed 10-acre vineyard. I met Cramoisi's co-owner and Ryan's better half Sophia Torres, a native of Mexico City, at a tasting event several years ago when they had only a few bottlings under their belt. As the only Latina winery owner in the Dundee Hills, Sophia co-founded AHIVOY to empower vineyard stewards who are looking to advance in the industry through education. After several years of hosting tastings at their home, the couple opened a beautifully appointed hillside tasting room in 2021. They resumed their wine tasting experiences (reservation required) in January, which includes a pre-tasting walking tour of the vineyard. Their rosé pinot noir is my go-to summer sip. Élevée Winegrowers – eleveewines.com As someone who is continuously pondering what I want my next act to be, I love an engaging mid-life change story, and I found one at Élevée Winegrowers. 46 slmag.net

A vineyard steward working at Cramoisi Vineyard, which is farmed biodynamically.

As we sat outside under the shade of giant umbrella steps from the home of Tom & France Fitzpatrick, France shared Élevée's origin story. It began when Tom opted for a mid-life career change and became a winemaker in 2003, wetting his feet in Washington State, New Zealand, and Napa and earning a master's degree in Viticulture & Enology from UC Davis. After graduation, he headed for Burgundy, France, before settling in Oregon with his wife in 2007 to carve out their niche as boutique winemakers while maintaining other full-time jobs. The vineyard was 23 years old when they purchased it from Archery Summit's Gary Andrus in 2008. They sold their harvested fruit until they saved enough to make their first cases of wine in 2012. Today, the high-density site produces 1400 cases, with every aspect from tractor to tasting handled personally by the couple. You can't help but appreciate their hustle as they aspire to greatness. Tom's work in Burgundy reinforced his affinity for terroir, and France said that they plant "postcard vineyards" that allow Tom to take a deep dive into discovering an appellation's nuances. France was a consummate hostess during our tasting, even presenting my mother, who was celebrating her 70th birthday on this trip, with a jar of homemade pinot noir jelly. We picked up a few bottles of their excellent Élevée Vineyard 2015 pinot noir, a single-vineyard bottling, and look forward to a return trip to see how their style continues to develop.

France Fitzpatrick of Élevée Winegrowers

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View of Mt. Hood from the Maresh Red Barn tasting room.

The Tasting Room at Haakon/Lenai Vineyard

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Robert Clary, the tasting room manager at Haakon/Lenai

Scott Flora of Native Flora

Native Flora vineyard

Maresh Red Barn – mareshredbarn.com Northeast Worden road is the site of some of the most vaunted vineyards in the Dundee Hills AVA. When Jim and Loie Maresh purchased their first plot of land here in 1959, they had no intention of becoming winemakers. Instead, they wanted to give their five children a fresh-air upbringing in what was then very rural Oregon. Eventually amassing more than 200-acres, it wasn't until Dick Erath came calling that Jim began making wine, learning by trial and error as they went along. Jim, who passed away in March of 2021, drove a tractor into his 90s and proclaimed himself and the original Oregon winemakers and his longtime friends the "Geezers Grapegrowers Group." The vineyard's history on the Maresh Red Barn website is worth reading. A natural hostess with Energizer Bunny-like enthusiasm, Jim's affable daughter Martha oversees the vineyard and Red Barn Tasting Room along with her husband, Steve Mikame. As much as she treasures the family farm today, she said that as a child, she hated school breaks because it meant farm work. Martha's son Jim Arterberry-Maresh is the winemaker, learning the trade from his father Fred, an award-winning Oregon winemaker. He revived the Arterberry Maresh label that went away when his father died in 1990. Today, the vineyard, the fifth oldest in Oregon, covers 140acres and is planted predominately to Pommard and Wadenswil clones. With their gnarly thick roots enveloped in neon green moss, the oldest vines are closest to the tasting room. Under the Arterberry Maresh label, Jim Arterberry-Maresh crafts highly rated rosé, chardonnay, and pinot noir. In 2019 he started the Tan Fruit project to "play" with purchased grapes. The six cuvées he crafted for the initial Tan Fruit vintage will be released sometime in 2022. Native Flora – nativeflora.com Morning fog is nearly a given in the Chehalem Valley, lending an impressionist painter's perspective to the already idyllic landscape

Southdown Babydoll sheep in the vineyard at Native Flora

at Native Flora. Adding to the alluring aura is a fluffy flock of Southdown Babydoll sheep languidly grazing on cover crops strategically sown beneath the 35-acres of vines, having no idea that their chowing keeps weeds at bay. The scene is intoxicating without tasting a drop of wine, but not doing so would be a shame, as Scott Flora makes some of the best juice in the valley. Appointment-only tastings occur in Scott and Denise Flora's stunning home overlooking the valley. An emphasis on symbiosis extends to the architecture, including geothermal heating and cooling and rainwater collection for vineyard use. Don't miss a tasting of their Jolly Rancher, a unique blend of their estate Pinot Noir and Pinot Blanc. Their limited production wines are only available via tastings or as a member of their wine club. Purple Hands Winery & Haakon/Lenai Vineyard – purplehandswine.com I'll admit that it was the contemporary tasting room jutting out over the undulating hills of the 35-acre Haakon/Lenai Vineyard that led us to Purple Hands Winery. Aesthetics aside, we were pleasantly surprised to uncover some of our favorite wines of the trip. Cody and Marque Wright own the winery; Cody is the son of esteemed and much-awarded Oregon winemaker Ken Wright, who I learned also has a Kentucky connection as a native of Lexington. While he learned from the best, Cody has developed a unique style for winemaking: lush and fruit-forward and with the kind of structure that will allow it to cellar well. While Purple Hands also has an "urban" tasting room in Dundee, you can't beat the setting of the vineyard tasting room. As a bonus, the latter is the only place to taste and buy Haakon/Lenai wines under the likable and knowledgeable direction of Robert Clary, the tasting room manager. sl For assistance planning your visit, I’d highly recommend referencing the Dundee Hills Winegrower’s Association website (dundeehills). In addition to winery background, it offers guidance on dining, lodging and culinary tour options in the area.

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DECO DELIGHTS

Fine jewelry that takes design cues from style moderne, which rose to popularity in the 1920s and 1930s, and emphasized sleek sophistication and geometric forms. Compiled by Bridget Williams

Clockwise from top left: Essentially Color necklace in rose gold with Sardinian coral, onyx, rose gold and diamonds from Picchiotti. Available through Moyer Fine Jewelers in Indianapolis and at picchiotti.it/ en. Yi Collection Bubble Gum Deco pink tourmaline ring ($1,950; yicollection.com). Roberto Coin 18K Palazzo Ducale bracelet with black jade and diamonds ($15,000). Available in Columbus and Nashville from Diamond Cellar, Indianapolis from Reis-Nichols Jewelers; in Kentucky from Davis Jewelers; in St. Louis from Simons Jewelers, and at robertocoin.com/en-us. Ashley Zhang Jewelery Art Deco ruby ring (ashleyzhangjewelery.com). Signed Fred Leighton black and diamond coiled doorknocker earrings ($12,000; fredleighton.com). Bespoke amethyst and diamond earrings from Lydia Courteille (lydiacourteille.com). Kwiat Legacy collection fringe earrings. Available through Diamond Cellar in Columbus; Reis-Nichols Jewelers in Indianapolis; King Jewelers in Nashville; and at kwiat.com. Karma El Khalil white gold and diamond hexagon earrings (karmaelkhalil.com). SNOW WHITE 6.5 Pearl Dagger Pendant on Blush Necklace from Rose Van Parys Jewelry ($42,100; rosavanparys.com)

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Clockwise from top left: L’Arc de DAVIDOR Pendant GM, 18K gold with lacquered ceramic and porta diamonds ($3,850; davidor.com). Artemer Studio Deco green and pink baguette diamond engagement ring ($5,840; artemerstudio. com). Alberto opal Art Deco ring ($5,200; albertocollections.com). Platinum Art Deco emerald and diamond brooch from Albarre Jewelry in St. Louis (albarre. com). Deco Alexandrite ring from Mark Henry Jewelry ($5,500; markhenryjewelry. com). Openwork Art Deco bangle from Penny Preville ($11,620). Available in Columbus through Diamond Cellar; in Indianapolis from Reis-Nichols Jewelers; and at pennypreville.com. L’Atelier Nawbar Bond Street mother of pearl fan earrings ($4,950; lateliernawbar.com).

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THE SPIRIT OF DAKAR

"A sadist creating events for masochists" – Jackie Ickx, 6-time 24 Hours of Le Mans winner and 25-time F1 podium finisher, on Dakar Rally founder Thierry Sabine Written by Breanna Wilson 52 slmag.net

Audi RS Q e-tron Photo courtesy of Audi

There are few motorsport events in the world as legendary as Dakar. It might be labeled a rally, but first and foremost, it's an incomparable human adventure. And, what an adventure it is for the more than 3,000 people competing as a rider, driver, or as part of a team each year. Imagine being in the middle of nowhere in Saudi Arabia with 5,000 miles ahead of you. You have to navigate yourself across an endless landscape of sand dunes, through fields of rocky flats, and charge full-speed ahead across some of the world's least discovered terrain. Oh, and you have 13 days to do it. That's Dakar. It's a test of physical and mental ability attracting some of the toughest men and women worldwide to get behind the handlebars and wheel each year. Tasked with using a paper roadbook as their guide, competitors on bikes, quads, and in cars, side-by-side vehicles, and trucks, are all tasked with the same mission: to find waypoints throughout each competition stage faster than any other competitor in their category. Not only is it a battle against the clock and terrain, but it also eventually becomes a battle against themselves. That's the point. The rally pushes competitors out of their comfort zone and to their breaking point. And once they reach that, to power on just a little bit farther. Because that was who Thierry Sabine, the Dakar's founder, was. A man with no limits, who never

worried about tomorrow, and who eventually died doing something he absolutely loved: overseeing the rally he created, Dakar. Sabine wasn't alone. His friends loved these all-in adventures as much as he did, which proved to be the perfect storm for creating an event like Dakar, as well as some pretty insane stories from those early years when the race was more about finishing than winning. Back then, it wouldn't be uncommon for the Delefortrie brothers to bring a bourriche of oysters with them for a mid-desert snack. Or for a Rolls-Royce Corniche to enter the competition as a challenge between friends. There was even the time in 1982 when Mark Thatcher, son of then Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher, got lost in the desert for four days. The following year wouldn't be any less dramatic; a sandstorm caused 40 drivers to lose their bearings, again pushing one of the competitors off course, and the race's radar, for four days. In those days, competitors would show up to the rally ready to race anything, including Vespa PX200E and P200E scooters, making it a slow-going race for a two-stroke single-cylinder 200cc engine with a four-speed transmission and top speed of just 65 mph. As a result, only two of them made it to Dakar, Senegal. These are the types of legends that would become the essence of the race and the incomparable human adventure it still is today. slmag.net

Near the finish line in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. All photos this page by Breanna Wilson.

THE REAL HEROES OF DAKAR, THE BIKES | Dakar was an immediate hit because it didn't take much to be a part of it. But while anyone could enter, not everyone did. Dakar drew a particular crowd, which was the point. Amateur riders with Yamahas and Hondas "cobbled together at the back of the garage" danced alongside Citroen CXs with F1 driver Jacky Ickx at the wheel. It was a strange mix, but it worked. And it worked because those who did dare to enter had that same wild look in their eye as Sabine. From the very beginning, the heroes of every Dakar have been the bikes and the guys behind the handlebars. In the beginning, bulkier, heavier motorcycles were necessary for a race of that distance and terrain. Flat engine BMW R80G/Ss, Honda single-cylinder XR550s (the early predecessor of the Africa Twin), and twin-valve single-cylinder Yamahas XT500s were the real heroes. The Yamaha XT500, with its torquey engine and slim, lightweight chassis, would be the bike of choice for Cyril Neveu, who not only won the first Dakar, but would repeat his victory in 1980, 1982, 1986, and 1987. 54 slmag.net

Jean-Claude Olivier, who rode in the first and second Dakar rallies on the same Yamaha, went on to help Yamaha develop the iconic XT600 Ténéré to compete with the BMWs that eventually began leaving Yamaha in their dust. The XT600 Ténéré boasted a 600cc engine with a Yamaha Dual Intake System (YDIS), a 30-liter fuel tank, the first front disc brake ever on a Yamaha off-road model, bell-crank Monocross suspension, and an aluminum swingarm, making it one of the most reliable bikes available at the time. During those early years, Yamaha put out an offer many racers couldn't refuse: buy one of their bikes, and they'd do the event service for free. It was a good deal – keeping your ride running is one of the hardest parts of any rally race, especially one as grueling as Dakar. If you were lucky and didn't run the bike into the ground before the finish, you'd have a fully repaired bike to take home. Dozens took Yamaha up on the offer and quite a few finished. Yamaha also gets credit for introducing the world to 22-yearold French enduro champion Stéphane Peterhansel in 1988. No one has won the Dakar Rally more times, earning him the nickname "Mr. Dakar."

American Amy Lerner and her co-driver Sara Bossaert, of Barcelona, Spain raced in a 1982 Porsche 911 SC.

Mattias Ekstrom after winning Stage 8 of the Dakar Rally as part of hybrid-powered Team Audi. Photo courtesy of Audi.

In 2011, Dakar organizers restricted the engine size of the bikes entering the race to 450cc, leaving the KTM 450 Rally to dominate in recent years. The first generation of the 450 Rally was essentially a 690 Rally with a 450 engine, while the 2019 version brought changes to the weight distribution comprising a new swingarm, linkage, shock absorber, revised exhaust, new airbox, fuel tanks, and seat. Sam Sunderland, the first British winner of the Dakar in 2017, broke KTM's spell when he cruised to his second victory in the motorcycle category at Dakar, this time from behind the handlebars of a GASGAS RC 450F Rally. These lighter and nimbler bikes are propelling riders to speeds of 110 mph, all while orienteering via their roadbook. It's an impressive feat, but one that doesn't leave much time for shucking oysters atop a giant sand dune. THE CARS | A Range Rover Classic was the first car to cross the Dakar finish line the first year, 4th behind three bikes, and still running on standard factory-issued Rostyle alloy wheels. The Classic ran a regular 3.5-liter Rover V8 and had three seats for the three team members. While fitted with an extra fuel tank and a

Photo by Breanna Wilson

winch, neither was used. The only thing reinforced on the vehicle was the steering damper. The Renault 4 also found success in those early years, and as manufacturers got more involved in the 1980s, it would be the Porsche 959 that began turning heads. Today, the vehicles in the car class are all custom-built, barely resembling anything you would find on the road and certainly not resembling anything you would find on a showroom floor. "Mr. Dakar," an older Peterhansel, would be one of the most talked-about names during the 2022 Dakar. With 14 wins under his belt, Audi tapped him to be one of three drivers putting their new RS Q e-tron, a hybrid-electric car with an electric drivetrain and high-voltage 52-kilowatt-hour battery charged on the go by a gas-powered 2.0-liter I4 turbocharged engine, through its paces. After placing 59th in the car category, the race will see more lowemission electric vehicles enter the race in coming years, thanks to this stunt-gone-right by Audi. Additionally, the race has made a vow to allow entry to only low-emission vehicles by 2030, further challenging competitors to push their limits and test what they— and their vehicles—are made of. slmag.net

1982 Porsche 911 SC raced by American Amy Lerner and her co-driver Sara Bossaert, of Barcelona. Photo by Breanna Wilson

DAKAR THEN MEET DAKAR NOW | After years of following the race and living for the stories told by Sabine and friends, I would find myself wondering if Dakar 2022, held this past January, would at all resemble the debauchery and chaos that so many people lived for in those early years. Unfortunately, as a race like Dakar grows, so does the rule book. With factory teams now dominating the event's overall presence and a starting price tag in the $250k range just to even think about competing, it's safe to say the rally of year's past is gone, but thankfully not forgotten. My chance to join and have full access to the behind-the-scenes making of the rally came from Can-Am, the all-terrain utility vehicle company. Between the wristbands, the color-coded lanyards, and the never-ending security protocols, Dakar has gone from open to everyone to the most exclusive event in motorsports, meaning that an invite like this doesn't come along every day. It would be with this team, and their corner of the bivouac, where I would learn the ins and outs, the good and bad, and the highs and lows of Dakar. I learned that sleep is a thing to be cherished, as a quiet night is impossible as the mechanics spend their entire evening replacing 56 slmag.net

and repairing vehicles back to new. I would also learn that Saudi Arabia, where this year's race took place, can be cold. I mean freezing temperatures cold, making sleeping in a tent, as most people at the race do, less than desirable and certainly anything but comfortable. I learned that the number of ladies participating in this year's rally reached an all-time high—28 in total— including three onehundred-percent female crews. In addition, I met the first two Saudi Arabian-born females to race in Dakar: Dania Akeel and Mashael Al-Obaidan. Akeel placed 8th, while Al-Obaidan came in 17th out of 37 finishers in the T3 SSV category. Both raced Can-Am Maverick X3's outfitted by the South Racing Middle East team. Molly Taylor, a driver from Australia who recently won the Extreme E rally, and Austin Jones, an American with a background in racing trophy trucks in Baja, also grabbed my attention. Both were racing in the T4 category as part of the Can-Am Factory South Racing team. Given unlimited access to the drivers, the mechanics, and the rest of the team, I learned strategies behind racing a rally like Dakar in 2022. It turns out, it's not just about going fast. Things

A digital version of the road book for navigating the 5,000mile route debuted in 2021. Photo by Breanna Wilson

Austin Jones, Monster Energy Racing Can-Am team. Photo by Breanna Wilson

like your starting position for the day, as well as your teammates, are crucial. Driving smart, not just hard, and avoiding costly mechanical repairs are what sets competitors apart. So, while Austin Jones may not have won a stage, he still took home first place in the SSV category, making him the third – and youngest – American to take an overall title at Dakar. Exploring the rest of the bivouac meant mingling with the journalists and media folks who devote two weeks of their life to covering such an intense race. Getting up before 4:00 am to see the first of the bikes take the starting line and submitting photos and text to their editors until the late hours of the night. If they have the time to crawl into their tent and catch some shuteye, with freezing nightly temperatures, they'll sleep out of sheer exhaustion rather than comfort. Through these unconventional circumstances, I found friendship with two inspiring female journalists— one Canadian, one Italian—simply bonding over our love of the rally and the people it brings together. I chatted with Johnny Campbell, Team Coordinator for Monster Energy Honda, a racing legend himself, and not just at Dakar. With 17-Baja 1000 wins in a row under his belt and his own history as the co-driver to NASCAR icon Robby Gordon at Dakar

Writer Breanna Wilson discovered that the freezing temperatures make sleeping in tents less than ideal. Photo by Breanna Wilson

The finish line in Jeddah, Saudi Arabia. Photo by Breanna Wilson

years earlier, it would be Campbell's Monster Energy Honda racing team and the rider's he mentors that would dominate this year's top ten in the bike category, taking second, fifth, sixth, and seventh place. Over two weeks, I followed the successes and trials that wreaked havoc on some of the most experienced drivers in the car category, like Carlos Sainz, Mattias Ekstron, and Peterhansel. It would be their Audi's that experienced issues ranging from hitting a rock and effectively shearing the left rear suspension off entirely to having a wheel fly from the car. They would eventually turn things around, but thoughts of winning the race were out of their heads by that point. Moving between bivouacs, watching as the scenery around me changed daily, meeting people from all backgrounds of life, and getting to know this iconic race on a more intimate level, my thoughts couldn't help but return to Sabine. Would he scoff at the vehicles competing today and the serious faces of the racers behind the wheel? Or, would he find it incredibly entertaining to watch people come together, scrambling through the desert at insane speeds with nothing but their vehicle and a roadbook 44 years later.Either way, the spirit of Sabine and the rally still holds true. Dakar remains an incomparable human adventure. sl slmag.net

Our custom dining experience at the Westin included a romantically-lit low table and comfortable ground cushions with finger foods and champagne. Photo courtesy Bronwyn Knight.

THE PERFECT PAIR IN PUERTO VALLARTA Written by Amelia Jeffers

Dusting off my passport last fall, I prepared for my first post-pandemic excursion beyond the borders and into the sunny west coast of Mexico with friends. Our week-long trip coincided with the Día de Muertos festival, when art installations and stunning traditional shrines would transform the streets of Puerto Vallarta. Despite its status as one of the world’s top vacation spots, Puerto Vallarta (PV) boasts a rich history of prosperous commerce thanks to a robust agricultural industry and an active port that has served inland communities for more than 200 years. Perhaps because tourism represents only fifty percent of the local economy, PV retains an authentic charm and warmth noticeably absent in some of its Mexican counterparts. Quaint shops and lively restaurants line the malecón (boardwalk), many of which cater to the international audience of visitors, but wander just a few streets away for a more local experience. The “Romantic Zone,” also known as Old Town, is often cited as a must-see, and the historic buildings and cobblestone streets do not disappoint. Seeking both a restful retreat and an opportunity to let loose a bit, our group decided to split our time between a pair of 58 slmag.net

properties owned by Marriott. For the first several days of our stay, we celebrated Day of the Dead at Marriott Puerto Vallarta Resort & Spa, where the staff hosted a memorable celebration that included personalized and elaborate ofrendas and sugar skull makeup artists for the more adventurous among us. Situated on a sandy strip along Banderas Bay, with the Sierra Madre Mountains as a stunning backdrop, the freshly renovated resort is nearly a one-stop shop for fun activities and great food with its six restaurants, a water-sports center, kids club, and programming for the whole family. A seasonal sea turtle release program, when nature permits, invites guests to learn and take part in the conservation of the region’s Ridley Sea Turtle. A 22,000 square foot onsite spa is the largest in Puerto Vallarta. In terms of venturing off the property, our helpful concierge arranged a driving tour of culture-rich barrios for some of our group and a deep-sea fishing expedition for others. We decided to save a boat tour to Las Caletas (a private cove for swimming) and snorkeling off Marietas Island for our next trip.

The freshly-renovated Marriott PV includes a stunning bi-level eatery overlooking the beach on one side and an infinity pool on the other.

Strategically constructed around the palms (and preserving as many as possible), the quiet pools seem like hidden natural lagoons at the Westin PV.

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A gracious concierge guided our group through a number of local excursions. Photo courtesy Bronwyn Knight.

From yoga classes to afternoon naps, the lush lawn at the Westin PV is a picturesque setting for rest and relaxation.

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Both properties offer opportunities for customized private-dining experiences.

The Westin Resort & Spa Puerto Vallarta drew us in with its mountains-meets-theocean landscapes and open-air decor spread across 14 tranquil acres.

We never ventured off the property for a meal because everything we had was just too good -and convenient - to beat. Ceviche & Tequila Bar overlooks the pools and serves up one of my favorite dishes. It was perfect for a solo late lunch and cocktail on my arrival when my travel mates were catching a game in the sports bar, Champions. Availing ourselves of a tequila tasting and cooking class at Nosh, a bi-level, open-air eatery just steps from the beach, gave us an unmatched view of the iconic PV sunset. After we had our fill of several action-packed days of eating, drinking, and exploring, we packed our bags and headed just a few doors down for a restorative break before our return home. A former palm tree plantation converted to a luxury wellness resort, The Westin Resort & Spa Puerto Vallarta drew us in with its mountainsmeets-the-ocean landscape and open-air decor spread across 14 tranquil acres that personify the resort’s holistic focus on well-being. Strategically constructed around the palms (and preserving as many as possible), the quiet pools seem like hidden natural lagoons with tiny islands and partially-submerged lounging beds, inviting total relaxation. Curtained pergolas fitted with luxury furnishings provide a private retreat on nearly half a mile of gorgeous beach. Consistent

Food options at Marriott Puerto Vallarta range from simple bar fare to exquisite culinary sensations.

A beach spa hut at Marriott Puerto Vallarta.

with the Westin brand, the resort carries workout gear available for loan, so you can keep packing to a minimum without sacrificing fitness. Speaking of fitness, the gym is extraordinary - with soaring ceilings and lots of light, I was motivated to squeeze in several workouts, including a beach-side yoga class. Determined to make the most of the amenities, every member of our party indulged in stress-relieving spa treatments. Protecting the tranquil environment is one-to-one service from entry to departure. My guide escorted me to a changing room and provided a cozy robe, fresh water, and directions for maximizing my visit. A steam sauna and cool bath prepared me for a thoroughly regenerative fullbody massage and the (guest favorite) Seaweed Wrap with Guarana, which promised to detoxify my system. The natural, mineralrich seaweed deeply hydrated and noticeably firmed my dry skin. We spent the last night of our trip on the expansive lawn (again with that sunset!), seated on comfortable cushions surrounding a low table filled with finger foods, champagne, and lots of candlelight. The custom dining experience left no detail unchecked and gave us the perfect evening to recount a spectacular week - while planning for the next one. sl slmag.net

Of Note... Splish, splash, upgrades for your primary bath Compiled by Colin Dennis

The Balocchi faucet from Fantini is available in a rainbow of colors (fantiniusa.com)

Designed by Arne Jacobsen in 1968, the VOLA HV1 Danish brand VOLA is available in the US through Hastings Tile & Bath (hastingstilebath.com)

A scenic scene for your bathtub soak. Les Mystères de Madagascar wall covering from Arte International (arte-international.com)

Kiva is a ceramic collection handcrafted by artisans in Walker Zanger’s factory in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico (walkerzanger.com)

Cellule circular wall-mounted basin from Lago (lago.it/en/)

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The Hästens 2000T mattress is comprised of 37Drain’s layers, linear including hair, Wet room with Infinity drainhorsetail placed flush cotton, wool and flax) the (from $27,795; hastens.com) against walls (infinitydrain.com).

Nemo Tile+Stone Pink Rock porcelain tile (nemotile.com)

Mendocino rectangular concrete soaking tub from Native Trails (nativetrailshome.com)

Americh textured tub has a speckled and textural pattern etched onto its exterior (americh.com)

ThermaSol’s HydroVive rainhead is designed to bring the multi-sensory powers of light, sound and water under the user’s complete control (thermasol.com)

Keraben Group Superwhite ceramic tile with an antimicrobial finish from Tile of Spain (tileofspainusa.com)

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CARBON DATING Swipe right on these timepieces and jewelry that highlight the strength and beauty of carbon fiber. Compiled by Bridget Williams

Clockwise from top left: Fabio Salini carbon fiber necklace with 292.78 cts of colored gemstones (fabiosalini.co.uk/). David Yurman forged carbon faceted band ring with 18K yellow gold ($2,500). Available from Diamond Cellar in Columbus, in Indianapolis from Moyer Fine Jewelers and Reis-Nichols; in Kentucky from Davis Jewelers, and at davidyurman.com. Furrer Jacot 6.5mm white gold, rose gold and carbon wedding bands ($2,880 with diamonds / $2,680 without diamonds, furrer-jacot.com). G- Shock MTGB2000YBD1 features a monocoque inner case of carbonreinforced resin set in a layered carbon frame ($1,200; gshock.com). Limited-edition GT Tour Carbon timepiece from Reservoir with 43mm laminated carbon case and 37-hour power reserve Clockwise from top left: ($7,126; reservoir-watch.com). Carbon fiber ring with lapis lazuli from Lotus Arts de Vivre ($5,810; lotusartsdevive.com).

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T R A N S I T I O N A L • T R A D I T I O N A L • CO N T E M P O R A RY RESIDENTIAL • COMMERCIAL DESIGN

Linda A Mordoh, Owner Rosemary Peters • Jaymes Anderson Cameron Harrington • Maddie Lynch

41 S. Rangeline Rd. Carmel IN 46032 317.848.0020 savvydecor.com

EUROPEAN ELEGANCE A Chatham Hills chateau redefines country French and cottage chic. Written by Neil Charles / Photographed by Andrew Kung

Located in Westfield, Chatham Hills is an exclusive community developed around a gently undulating 18-hole championship golf course designed by the late Pete Dye. The community also features a driving range with heated covered stalls, indoor and outdoor swimming pools with a swim-up bar, fitness center, tennis courts, pickleball courts, a bowling alley and childcare center. With over 60 feet of elevation changes across the course, as well as obstacles created by meandering creeks, Chatham Hills represents some of the most challenging golf in the state. It is here that construction began in 2019 on our featured home under the supervision of the highly respected Scott Campbell of Scott B. Campbell Custom Homes, with interior design by Linda Mordoh of Savvy Décor. A striking, spacious edifice on three levels that references European and French country styles, the floor plan is writ large on a distinctly contemporary American scale. “Our intent was to create a home with the feel of an English cottage, but my taste runs to French and not so cottagey,” explains the owner. “It’s a very feminine home; there are a number of influences, and Scott and Linda know how to put it all together.” For nearly two decades, houses by Scott B. Campbell Custom Homes have become landmarks in many of the city’s most upscale neighborhoods. Campbell began his career in construction with his stepfather, a 66 slmag.net

builder in Madison County, Indiana, himself a keen exponent of the French country style. “This particular homeowner has a love for European homes and so was a natural fit,” explains Campbell. “I think European architecture in general is timeless and enduring; when done properly and the interior follows the exterior architecture and tone, you really cannot put a time stamp on these homes.” Synonymous with quality and attention to detail, Campbell is known for using rigorously selected materials and employing the finest craftsmen to work with them. Both inside and out, this showcase home delivers a promise of permanence with stone, iron and hardwoods providing the backbone. Throughout the home, exquisite cabinetry designed by Kristin Okeley of Kitchens by Design/KBD Home reflects the country French style. The kitchen island, hewn from a single slab of Italian marble, is a monumental focal point of the room, as is the exquisite Italian Ilve range, complete with griddle and brass fixtures. Exposed beams and a lighter-colored hardwood floor provide a touch of Cotswold cottage, while the striking hood surround, with its classical architectural detail, is perhaps more evocative of the Regency style. This elevated tone is echoed by the delightful stone fireplaces in the living room and office that in a lesser home would appear massive and perhaps overwhelming, but here stand in perfect proportion.

The study is done in a soothing palette of blues.

The living room is elegant, yet cozy.

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A focal point of the kitchen, the stunning island is hewn from a single piece of Italian marble.

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An Ilve range is one of the kitchen’s many charming features.

A butler’s pantry features a farmhouse sink.

Large windows ensure the kitchen is bathed in light.

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The owner’s suite features a spa-worthy bath. Feminine touches, such as this elegant vanity, are found throughout the home.

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This versatile space is used as a crafting area as well as a playroom.

A chic powder room

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The laundry room combines convenience with charm.

The main bedroom is a luxe retreat.

Throughout the home, Mordoh has created a feminine environment through her use of fabrics, textured wallcoverings and décor pieces. “It was a treat to do country French with such a feminine touch,” she explains. “The client has impeccable taste and helping her achieve her look was a fabulous experience.” The dining room, with its simple solid wood table, is softened by woven floral wallpaper, richly textured floor-length curtains and painted wickerback chairs. Flowers abound throughout the home, whether real, silk or the subject of paintings, providing bursts of color against the gentle creams, beiges and gray blue of the color scheme. In the serene study, impeccable cabinetry is painted a soothing shade of blue, the color reflected in the curtains, walls and furnishings. The attention to detail is also reflected in the care with which interior lighting was selected. “We worked with Debbie Harrison of Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery,” says Mordoh. “Her expertise was invaluable.” Heading up the contemporary iron and wood staircase with its turned brass stair rods, the relative formality of the ground floor gives way to a more casual and relaxed second level featuring guest rooms. Elegant touches abound, and again Mordoh makes extensive use of textured wall coverings. But perhaps the most interesting feature of upstairs is a space that is used for crafting,

games and gift-wrapping. Defined by a single step up and a simple iron rail, there are no walls separating this room from the upstairs hall, but the simplicity and effectiveness of the divide is striking. Complete with a comfortable window seat, this splendid little area would be right at home in any number of English country houses. If the main floor is all about air and light, the lower level is more country club in style, with carpeted floors, pastel colors, plenty of burnished woodwork and refined fixtures. This is an area for informal entertaining which also features a fully equipped exercise room. Thoughtfully designed with consideration of “aging in place,” each floor is also accessible by elevator. The decor throughout is a blend of old and new, with the majority of significant pieces obtained from the owner’s previous residences. “We love being able to incorporate design elements from older spaces into new spaces,” says the designer. “I call my style ‘curated design,’ which means we like to find things from all over, including previous homes. That way your home doesn’t look decorated.” Old or new, previously owned or newly acquired, Mordoh’s design choices, and those of her client, fit perfectly into this graciously inviting residence. The home, with its subtle blend of European styles, is a masterpiece of good taste, bringing English coziness to an elegant chateau. sl slmag.net

artist. designer. craftsman.

Whether your building your dream home or planning a new renovation, for most people it’s a once in a lifetime event that takes on a special meaning. This is your home – your chance to get what you want, where you want it and how you want it. Every single detail reflects your vision of what your home means to you and your family. At Scott B. Campbell Custom Homes, we make sure to keep that vision in the forefront every day by offering unique designs, state-of-the-art amenities and the most talented professionals in the industry. When you’re ready, let us help bring your ideas to reality.

SCOTT B. CAMPBELL CUSTOM HOMES CENTRAL INDIANA’S RENOVATION SPECIALIST

765.778.2738 | 888.214.8998 | campbellcustom@aol.com

Image by Artistic Tile

8610 East 106th St • Fishers, IN • (317) 842-2888 • www.archbricktile.com

BRING YOUR VISION TO US The experts at Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery are here to help create a home that’s as extraordinary as you are. Any project, any style, any dream—bring your inspiration to Ferguson Bath, Kitchen & Lighting Gallery. Visit build.com/ferguson to schedule your personalized showroom experience today.

YOUR LOCAL SHOWROOM: CARMEL

Ciri Kitchen

SAINTS & DINNERS An unforgettable trip to New Orleans Written by Jeffrey Cohen Located in the heart of New Orleans’ Central Business District, just steps from the historic French Quarter, the Windsor Court Hotel is a haven for the discriminating traveler, providing unmatched elegance and luxury with superior service and style. The Europeanstyle hotel was built in 1984, undergoing substantial renovations and improvements over the intervening years. Now a crown jewel of the New Orleans hotel scene, Windsor Court offers state-of-the art amenities, as well as exquisite dining in The Grill Room and the Polo Club Lounge, one of the city’s most posh venues and a favorite of visiting celebrities. The hotel is also a small museum of sorts, featuring paintings, sculptures, tapestries and furnishings by more than 60 artists dating from the 17th to the late 20th centuries, in a collection valued at more than $10 million. Much of the artwork is British in origin, with an emphasis on pieces that depict Windsor Castle and British royal life, and include originals by William Powell Frith and Thomas Gainsborough. Arriving late on a rather blustery fall morning, my son and I were in town for his first-ever visit and, almost equally important, his firstever New Orleans Saints game. As a native of the Crescent City, I make 78 slmag.net

a point of visiting at least once a year with my wife, catching up with friends and trying new restaurants. This time, our trip presented me with an opportunity to share some of my favorite haunts, both old and new, with a newcomer, a task I always relish. The hotel staff greeted us like old friends, but as we had arrived well before check-in time, our room was not quite ready, so we walked a few blocks to the trendy Warehouse District to one of my favorite eateries, Cochon Butcher. Producing all the meats for their sandwiches in-house, as well as an array of house-made pickles, jellies, jams, mustards, and sauces, Butcher also bakes its own bread and offers a fine selection of knives and kitchenware. Enjoying a burger and a quarter of my muffaletta, my son was so entranced by the flavors that we returned for lunch the following day. Something of a foodie at the age of fourteen, he was smitten with the Big Easy’s food culture from his very first bite. Like so many who visit New Orleans for the first time, he came away with a hook in his mouth, figuratively speaking. Even though the city may lie geographically in the south, it is not a southern city. As one local chef put it, “New Orleans is a Northern annexation of Haiti.” This is especially true of the food.

Le Salon serves a classic British tea on the weekends.

24 Karat Wings is one of the Polo Club Lounge’s signature dishes.

The Polo Club Lounge is the place for a restorative cocktail, and maybe a bit of celebrity spotting.

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Grill Room culinary director Igor Krichmar

Next up was a prearranged private horse-drawn carriage tour of the French Quarter, courtesy of Royal Carriages. My son got a kick out of the street actors and mimes painted silver or gold from head to toe, standing still for hours, and was as enamored as I always am with the stately French and Spanish-inspired architecture with wrought iron balconies and courtyards. Taking it all in, he said, “Dad, this doesn’t feel like any other city in the country.” I answered matter-offactly, “There isn’t another city like this in the country.” After an impromptu dance with some hip-hop artists outside St. Louis Cathedral (everyone dances in New Orleans, and by that I mean everyone), it was back to the hotel to check into our expansive twobedroom suite. Luxurious in every way, our accommodations featured 80 slmag.net

Italian marble bathrooms, separate dressing rooms and private balconies with stunning views across town and the Mississippi River beyond. Following a quick shower and change of clothes, it was down to the hotel’s prestigious restaurant, The Grill Room, for a spectacular dinner prepared by culinary director Igor Krichmar. Easily one of my favorite meals anywhere, the renowned chef conjured up a menu that began with Wagyu tataki and an impeccable Dover sole for me, and a saffron-poached lobster for my son. This was followed by meltingly tender steaks, all accompanied by wines carefully matched to the food by the highly polished and knowledgeable sommelier. The attention to detail, from the creative and complicated garnishes to the presentation and service, frankly blew us away.

The Grill Room’s Maine Lobster and Tomato Bisque

Dover Sole

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The Private Dining Room in The Grill Room features well-known New Orleanians, past and present.

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Beet Tartare is a vegetarian twist on the classic.

Foie Gras Terrine

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A platter of delights served at Le Salon’s afternoon tea

The next morning, we were back at the Grill Room for a magnificent breakfast of freshly baked pastries and crawfish and andouille omelets, while a lively jazz trio set an appropriately upbeat tone for the day. We sat and enjoyed the music for a while before heading out into the city. Grabbing an Americano from the hotel’s Café Anglais, it was back to the Quarter for some shopping – specifically Saints gear for the next day’s big game, and even more sneakers for my son’s never-ending collection. Lunch again at Cochon Butcher was followed by a de rigeur stop at Cafe Beignet for beignets and cafés au lait. For me, no trip to New Orleans is complete without dinner at Pascal’s Manale, the restaurant where what is known as barbecue shrimp was invented, and once again, my boy was thoroughly impressed. “Yours is good, but this is…” he enthused as he pushed another buttery crustacean into his mouth. A nightcap of a Sazerac (for me, of course) and live piano jazz at the Polo Club Lounge

rounded out our day’s adventures, and we retired to bed eager for what the next day might offer. Located on the fourth floor of the hotel, adjacent to the heated outdoor pool, the fitness center became a regular stop before breakfast each day. On Sunday, we headed there for a quick workout followed by a refreshing dip, then it was out onto the streets for some pregame festivities on our way to the Caesars Superdome. The city was in party mode (when isn’t it?), even more so than usual; the experience was like hanging out with 70,000 of your closest friends. Indeed, it was a childhood friend who kindly provided us with the family’s great seats; the dome was one big party – more like a British soccer match than a football game. While we didn’t win, a minor detail like that didn’t begin to dampen the festive spirit all over town. The day could hardly have been better from almost any perspective.

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After the game, we walked to the first streetcar stop on the St. Charles line. We rode the historic green car uptown all the way to Carrollton Avenue, past the beautiful homes in the Garden District, continuing on past Loyola and Tulane, and Audubon Park, where my mother used to take my sister and me to the zoo as children, to The Camellia Grill, a classic diner that’s a veritable 86 slmag.net

institution. Here, we sat at the counter and commemorated the Saints’ loss with signature cheeseburgers, fries and chocolate freezes while enjoying the spirited banter between the cooks and waiters. Then it was back on the streetcar and downtown to the hotel to meet an old friend in the lounge for drinks and another Sazerac. I explained to my son that in New Orleans, most people don’t

Among many amenities, the Windsor Hotel’s Presidential Suite features a fireplace and private deck.

use directionals such as north or south; instead, you head toward “Uptown, Downtown, River or Lake.” The following morning, we enjoyed a final breakfast in The Grill Room, and strolled down Canal Street to find yet more sneakers. Then we were off to the new (and truly spectacular) Louis Armstrong Airport for our flight home. It isn’t often that I get to spend four days

one-on-one with my son, let alone in a city as vibrant and exciting as New Orleans. Even though I’ve lived most of my life in Indianapolis, I will always call New Orleans my true home, and on this trip, it was gratifying to watch my son fall under the city’s spell. I think we’ll make this an annual pilgrimage…our next visit cannot come too soon. sl For more information, visit windsorcourthotel.com slmag.net

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Want to be seen in our scene? Email your event photos to jeff@slmag.net

SOPHISTICATED SIPS St. Elmo shares six classic cocktails to make at home Written by Neil Charles / Photographed by Dave Pluimer 92 slmag.net

St. Elmo’s Max Campbell

Over the years we have spoken to many designers whose stated goal, amongst many others, is to remain “timeless.” Remaining contemporary yet ageless is certainly a key to success, but one that can be elusive for many. The same could be said for the cocktail. Out of the tens of thousands created over the past couple of centuries, only a handful could be considered indispensable classics. What is interesting about these most popular of tinctures is that some, while having evolved significantly over the years, still bear the same name and can trace their lineage back to their origins.

In pursuit of our research, we asked Max Campbell, veteran bartender at St. Elmo Steak House, to share his own recipes for some of his most popular cocktails – drinks that, with a few ingredients, anyone should be able to make at home. Today’s tastes may differ from those of a century ago, but two spirits Americans love now as much as then are gin and whiskey. It is an understatement to say that these quintessential recipes withstand the test of time, and certainly belong in every home mixologist’s arsenal. slmag.net

French 75

Classic Gin Martini The martini is arguably the most controversial cocktail out there. To shake or stir? Gin or vodka? Legend has it that this perennial favorite originated in San Francisco in the 1860s, when it was described as a gin-based drink with Old Tom gin, bitters, Maraschino liqueur and sweet vermouth. Over the ensuing decades, the sweet vermouth became dry and the Maraschino was dropped altogether, resulting, by the 1920s, in the now classic ratio of two parts London dry gin to one part dry vermouth. A century has passed since the roaring ‘20s, and the martini has become increasingly dry. According to Noel Coward, “a perfect martini should be made by filling a glass with gin, then waving it in the general direction of Italy.” On the subject of the correct gin for a martini, Max is flexible: “For a classic martini recipe, the flavor profile varies dramatically based on the style of gin that you choose, as well as the garnish profile chosen to enhance the drink.” For real flavor and pizazz, we like the outstanding Chase GB from Herefordshire, or Sipsmith from London. For a less intense experience, a more neutral, vodka-ish gin such as Hendricks works admirably. 94 slmag.net

French 75 This potent drink was first created in 1915 by legendary bartender Harry MacElhone of Harry’s Bar fame. The classic recipe calls for grenadine but has since been replaced in many versions with elderflower liqueur, which is more aromatic and distinctive. The combination of gin and Champagne was said to deliver such a kick that its creator likened it to a French 75 millimeter field gun. Max adds, “The elderflower liqueur is most certainly a variation from the original but, when paired with a citrus-forward sweeter gin, offers a delightful floral enhancement.” We like to use Tanqueray or, for a more explosive experience, Monkey 47 gin. The Last Word Max offers this cocktail as an intriguing contrast to the above. Sharp and pungent, with a nice balance of sweet citrus, we like to make this with Roku gin from Japan -- the citrusy, floral notes complement the Chartreuse particularly well. If there is no Chartreuse available (it can be hard to find), Benedictine provides a passable substitute.

Classic martini

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Old fashioned

Sazerac

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Manhattan

No steak house, ancient or modern, would be worth its salt without a few classic whiskey drinks. American whiskey, based on either corn or rye, was the backbone of the liquor industry until comparatively recently, when vodka mounted a major challenge to its preeminence. In this century, whiskey, especially bourbon, has seen an enormous resurgence in popularity, sparking a national obsession with collecting rare and hard-to-find bottlings. Manhattan The granddaddy of whiskey drinks, the Manhattan is widely believed to have been created in the 1860s in New York. The original recipe, somewhat vague, called for American whiskey, vermouth and bitters. Over time, the ingredients have become rather more specific, to wit: rye whiskey, sweet vermouth and bitters, usually Angostura. Some will opt for a bourbon instead, which, as Max notes, “makes for a sweeter drink. Using a spicy, peppery rye balances well with the sweet vermouth and bitters.” We like to use a good quality rye, such as Pikesville, or Knob Creek for a bit more heft. If one feels like splashing out, Carpano Antico sweet vermouth is the way to go. Sazerac “A New Orleans classic,” says Max. “Peychaud’s bitters is one of the keys here; it is lighter and sweeter than other styles of bitters. The wonderful aroma of the absinthe-rinsed glass against the rye produces a classic nose, taste, finish and balance.” Originally concocted at the Sazerac Coffee House with Cognac and bitters from New Orleans apothecary Antoine Peychaud, the Sazerac made its first appearance sometime in the 1860s. When phylloxera destroyed most of France’s grapevines, the Cognac supply dried up, and the

café’s new proprietor, Thomas Handy, switched to American rye. When absinthe was banned in the U.S., a local product, Herbsainte (made without the dreaded wormwood) was substituted for absinthe. Now that the latter spirit is again legal, we can once more enjoy an approximation of the original. Old Fashioned This classic cocktail is notable for its simplicity, first making an appearance at the turn of the 19th century in New York. Originally composed of whiskey, a sugar cube, water and bitters, it passed through innumerable variations during the first half of that century, but became popular again in its (almost) present form as an antidote to increasingly arcane multi-ingredient cocktails. History has repeated itself over the decades, during which time the old fashioned remained a robust reminder of times gone by. Today, bourbon and rye are interchangeable in the cocktail, although rye is perhaps marginally more popular. In Wisconsin, brandy is de rigueur. “Again, bourbon can be used here as opposed to a rye,” Max continues, “but it can change the profile drastically. old fashioneds are sweet and approachable, but warm and whiskey-forward at the same time.” While Max is too modest to promote his own product, we at Sophisticated Living very much enjoy St. Elmo Bourbon Whiskey in an old fashioned. With its vanilla and cherry notes and hefty proof, one only needs to add ice, sugar, and perhaps a splash of water. When it comes to a great cocktail, the key to success lies in quality ingredients and of course, as Max points out, plenty of ice. We hope these recipes inspire readers to give one (or more) a go – after all, knowing how to create a finely-crafted cocktail is a skill one may use, and enjoy, for life. slmag.net

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CLASSIC GIN MARTINI 2 ounces gin Vermouth Serve in a chilled martini glass or coupe Rinse glass with vermouth

SAZARAC 2 ounces rye whiskey ¼ ounce simple syrup 3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters absinthe rinse

Add gin to a cocktail shaker and shake with ice vigorously; if preferred, this can also be stirred. Strain into glass and garnish with olive, lemon twist or cocktail onions.

Combine ingredients in a mixing glass with ice and stir vigorously. Strain ingredients into a rocks glass rinsed in absinthe. Garnish with a fresh lemon swath.

FRENCH 75 2 ounces gin 1 ounce elderflower liqueur ¼ ounce fresh lemon juice Champagne

A New Orleans classic, Peychaud’s bitters is one of the keys here; it is lighter and sweeter than other styles of bitters. The wonderful aroma of the absinthe-rinsed glass against the rye gives the drink a finished balance.

Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker and shake vigorously with ice. Strain ingredients into a chilled martini glass or coupe. This drink is classically finished with a Champagne float. Garnish with a fresh lemon swath. The elderflower liqueur is most certainly a variation from the original but, paired with a citrus-forward sweeter gin, offers a delightful floral enhancement. MANHATTAN 2 ounces rye whiskey 1 ounce sweet vermouth 3 dashes orange bitters Add ingredients to a cocktail shaker with ice and stir vigorously. Strain ingredients into a martini glass or coupe. Finished with a Luxardo cherry garnish. While bourbon is certainly an option here, it makes a sweeter drink; however, using a spicy, peppery rye balances well with the sweet vermouth and bitters. OLD FASHIONED 2 ounces rye whiskey ¼ ounce simple syrup 3 dashes aromatic bitters 1 orange wedge Muddle the orange wedge in a mixing glass, add rye, simple syrup, and bitters. Strain over a large ice cube into a rocks glass; finish with a Luxardo cherry and an orange swath. Again, bourbon can be used here as opposed to a rye, but it can change the profile drastically. Old Fashioneds are sweet and approachable, but warm and whiskey-forward at the same time.

THE LAST WORD 1 ounce gin 1 ounce Maraschino liqueur 1 ounce Green Chartreuse ¼ ounce fresh lime juice Add ingredients to a mixing glass with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled martini or coupe glass. Sharp and pungent, with a nice balance of sweet citrus. Chartreuse adds notes all its own – herbal, plant bark, root, and spice. This is a flavorful, well-balanced cocktail from start to finish.

A FEW MORE TIPS FROM MAX • These drinks are perfect for experimentation at home. Explore vermouths, simple syrups, and bitters – the possibilities are endless, and these three items can dramatically change the flavor profile. • Cocktails are no different than food or wine. Layer and balance are the key. Always remember: nose, taste, finish. • Cocktails are also visual. Play with glassware at home for a more interesting work of art. • Fresh ingredients are bright and flavorful; be sure to express citrus peels before adding. • Throw your bright red maraschino cherries in the garbage and upgrade to Luxardo cherries. • Ice is the most important ingredient in any cocktail.

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REIS-NICHOLS JEWELERS

On September 30, 2021, watch enthusiasts were invited to an exclusive celebration and viewing of the latest TUDOR novelties hosted at Ruth’s Chris Ironworks. Guests enjoyed music, cocktails, dinner and an opportunity to talk with TUDOR Vice President, Adam Bossi. For more information, visit reisnichols.com.

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1) BJ Nichols, Adam Bossi, Cole Hale 2) Aaron Nichols, Alec Kayes 3) Ryan Miller, Lindsay Miller 4) Steven Worth, Joann Worth 5) Patty Martin, Kevin Martin, Cole Hale 6) Taylor Ardizzone, Hannah Hale, Cole Hale 7) Christie Noschang, Kevin Noschang 8) Hannah Hale, Cole Hale 9) Lori Nichols, BJ Nichols

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DAMIEN CENTER GRANDE MASQUERADE

The Damien Center hosted its 34th annual Grande Masquerade gala on October 22, 2021, raising a record-breaking $315,000 to benefit people living with or impacted by HIV. Approximately 800 attendees (all with proof of COVID-19 vaccination or a negative test) gathered at the Indianapolis Marriott Downtown, costumed and bedazzled to reflect the theme of Majesté. Celebrity guest Lady Bunny entertained, along with emcee Marc Mullins, DJ Trung, Dance Kaleidoscope, and a host of other performers. Mayor Joe Hogsett also made an appearance. The event committee, led by chair Jonathan Scott, gave countless hours to make Grande Masquerade: Majesté a success. For more information about Grande Masquerade, please contact Joey Amato at give@damien .org.

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1) Bill Pritt 2) Lady Bunny 3) Garry Elder, Christian Smeltzer 4) Jeremy Wigden-Wright, Dale Wigden-Wright 5) Jonathan Scott 6) Stacie Hensen, Alan Witchey 7) Matt Troyer, Natalie Richards Troyer, Josh Cox, Jonathan Scott, Ellen Krause, Marty Krause 8) Jeffrey Tuttle, Tyson Wise 9) Ricardo Boulware, James Vachon 10) Patrick Maher, Jennifer Maher 11) Marc Mullins 12) Esther Carter-Day 13) Dr. Virginia Caine, Mayor Joe Hogsett

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ASSISTANCE LEAGUE OF INDIANAPOLIS HOLIDAY EVENT

The Assistance League of Indianapolis’ 25th annual Holiday Event took place on December 2, 2021, at the Ritz Charles. Nearly 400 guests attended and enjoyed a silent auction, 50/50 raffle and a fashion show by Secret Ingredient. David Hillman, program director from the Nina Mason Pulliam Charitable Trust, made an announcement of a grant award in the amount of $20,000. Overall, the event raised $82,500 to support the organization’s four philanthropic programs. 6 4

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1) Jessica Thompson, Cathy Weimer, Katie Weimer 2) Janet Pfadt, Shelli Moss, Leslie Morgan, Barb Stewart, Celia Booher 3) Jannete Guest, Susan Keating, Connie Pollom, Annie Burdette 4) Dana Witmer, Barbara Goodwin, Sandra Ellis 5) Phyllis Usher, Linda Cornwell, Marie McNelis 6) Ann Beale, Kim Wettersten, Donna Jacobi 7) Sunny Shuai, Sharon Gleason, Kathleen Hart, Jack Hogan, Trish Severns 8) Debbie Cramer, David Hillman 9) Mary Lenglade, Vicki Lenz, Julie Yates, Julie Riker, Jennifer Yates 10) Mary McMullan, Sandy Powers, Pamela Meyer 11) Margret Cole Russel, Marjorie Wilkerson, Amanda Congrove 12) Sandy Bettner, Angel Dawes, Dina Graham, Shari Nienow 13) Kathy Drew, Susan Seet, Forba Shepherd 14) Elly Johnston, Sharon Gleason, Trish Severns 15) Dorothea Genetos, Joan Nicolet 16) Kathy Kerr Wylam, Josephine Kerr

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BREBEUF BISTRO

A sold-out crowd of more than 500 attended the Brebeuf Bistro on February 26. This year’s event, “Diamond Jubilee Bistro’’ was held at the Indiana Roof Ballroom, following a virtual event last year. The Bistro is Brebeuf Jesuit Preparatory School’s largest annual fundraiser, featuring silent and live auctions, live music and entertainment, and delicious food. Guests snapped up raffle tickets for chances to win exotic trips and exciting experiences, a stunning pair of diamond earrings and a diamond pendant, and even a coveted Pappy Van Winkle Bourbon package. Brebeuf Jesuit Class of 2001’s Drew Blair, who co-anchors Daybreak each weekday morning on WISH-TV, was the emcee for the evening, while Brebeuf Jesuit teacher Matt Mayer and WTHR 13 INside Track host Laura Steele served as auctioneers. The Bistro event’s proceeds directly benefit the needs of the student body at Brebeuf Jesuit through support for financial aid via The Brebeuf Campaign, as well as enrichment support for student programming and instructional grants.

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1) Dennis Stevenson, Patti Stevenson, Rajeev Talwar, Nitasha Khanna 2) Rajeev Talwar, Patti Stevenson, Elliott Pruitt, Dennis Stevenson 3) Amy Ricke, Benjamin Ricke, Lisa Bangert, Dave Bangert 4) Amy Replogle, Michelle Rogers, Kristy Sherman, Sarah Cotterill 5) Brent Miller, Shelley Miller, Peter Pang, Jennifer Cervantes 6) Fr. Chris Johnson, SJ, Valerie Esposito, Frank Esposito, Fr. Bill Verbryke, SJ 7) Jake Golden, Lexi Golden, Dev Thompson, Brittany Thompson 8) Wilmara Manuel, Sara McCanna 9) Andy Mohr, Lorna Mohr, Jona Wells, Jeff Wells 10) Laura Steele, Matt Mayer 11) Jane Salentine, Elliott Pruitt, Heather Bice 12) Elizabeth Snook, Paula Schaefer, Wendy Hamilton 13) Jamie Elkins, Colleen Cannon, Leah Gonzalez, Katie Mahoney 14) Jennifer O’Connor, Kristen Jones, Kristie Smith, Elliott Pruitt 15) Jenny Kennedy, Michael Joyce, Therese Joyce, Scott Kennedy

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16) Mark Momper, Karen Momper, Kelly Garverick, Beau Garverick 17) Judd Feldman, Lori Feldman, Chrissy Ryan, Dan Ryan 18) Martha Steinkamp, Janet Kafoure, Elliott Pruitt, Lisa Goldenberg, Jamie Elkins 19) Paul Stubblefield, Rhodesha Stubblefield, Rona Ash, Lisa Shelby 20) Megan Peterson, Mary Aaron 21) Liz Suscha, Ted Frantz, Jason Suscha, Sheila Brown 22) Melanie Scheetz, Mike Scheetz, Jason Dapp Liz Dapp 23) Ted Hampton, Matt Mayer, Joel Clem, Kate Clem 24) John Terlisner, Micki Humbert, Butch Humbert, Paige Miller, Thad Miller 25) Margot Rossignon, Kevin Rossignon, Hunter Musselman, Taylor Musselman 26) Jamie Elkins, Mike Higginbotham, Annie Melbert 27) Dave Hooper, Renea Hooper 28) Anton Groomes, Tenéh Karimu, Matthew Tippel 29) Lisa Hirshfeld, Adam Hirshfeld

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HEROES CLUB

More than 100 guests gathered at the Turner James building in Carmel for the Heroes Club Insurance announcement reception on January 27. The Heroes Club was created in 1996 to support those in Carmel’s law enforcement and public safety, providing financial assistance and resources for the women and men of the Carmel Police and Fire Departments, as well as members of the Hamilton County Sheriff’s Department and Indiana State Police who serve the city of Carmel and Clay township. 5

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1) Bill Nichols, Jim Nordhoff 2) Gregg Pelicone, Josh Carson 3) Jim Melangton, Ed Blair 4) Josh McKenney, Jon Goodburn, Quinn Shepherd, Steve Gregory 5) Mark LaBarr, Tony Delello, Dan Rhodes 6) Renee Butts, Rick Campbell, Laura Campbell 7) Zak Klan, Anthony Lazzara 8) Melissa Averitt, Matt Frey, Stephanie Miller 9) Officer Striker, Officer Singh 10) Paul Schafer, Jill Fewell 11) Mark Cromlich, Amber Cromlich 12) Tj Woodard, Dennis Quakenbush, Christen Quakenbush 13) Turner Woodard, Jon Owens 14) Mike Hufnagel, Janet Jessee, Ed Blair 15) Molly Hull, Dana Polizzi, Lucia Carter 16) Officer Govin, Officer Collins