NEUVO SOUTHERN
At Corto Lima, Jonathan Lundy returns to a cuisine that continues to captivate him Written by Patti Bailey / Photography by Andrew Kung Although he’s considered one of the pioneers of the Southern fine food movement in Kentucky, that was never the preferred culinary pathway celebrated Lexington chef Jonathan Lundy intended to tread. “Today, the thought of having to continue making grits and fried green tomatoes is enough to make me nauseous,” he said with a laugh. For his latest concept–Corto Lima– the charismatic chef has returned to the type of cooking that got him excited about food in the first place. Lundy was in the final stages of assembling a business plan to open an Italian-themed eatery when nearby 101 West Short Street in downtown Lexington became available. “I’d watched this place flip so many times, and people say it’s cursed, but I believe you just have to have the right plan and the right people willing to carry it out to be successful,” he said. Judging from the number of tables that were filled with patrons during the typical slow hours between lunch and dinner during our recent visit, it seems that Corto Lima may just possess the right je ne sais quoi needed to achieve the staying power that has eluded other restaurateurs who’ve inhabited the space.
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